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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44604 ***
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 44604-h.htm or 44604-h.zip:
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/44604/44604-h/44604-h.htm)
+      or
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/44604/44604-h.zip)
+
+
+      Images of the original pages are available through the
+      Digital Library of the Falvey Memorial Library,
+      Villanova University. See
+      http://digital.library.villanova.edu/Item/vudl:267659
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+      Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
+
+      Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=).
+
+
+
+
+
+HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.
+
+Containing Full Instructions How to Proceed in
+   Order to Become a Locomotive Engineer;
+    Also Directions for Building a Model
+      Locomotive; together with a Full
+        Description of Everything an
+            Engineer Should Know.
+
+Profusely Illustrated.
+
+BY AN OLD ENGINEER ON THE NEW YORK CENTRAL
+RAILROAD.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+New York:
+Frank Tousey, Publisher
+29 West 26th Street.
+
+Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1898, by
+Frank Tousey,
+in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D.C.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+  CHAPTER I.   HISTORICAL.
+  CHAPTER II.  DESCRIPTION OF THE LOCOMOTIVE.
+  CHAPTER III. HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.
+  CHAPTER IV.  DUTIES OF AN ENGINEER.
+  CHAPTER V.   HOW TO RUN A TRAIN.
+  CHAPTER VI.  HOW TO BUILD A MODEL LOCOMOTIVE.
+  CHAPTER VII. CONCLUSION.
+
+
+
+
+How to Become an Engineer.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+HISTORICAL.
+
+
+To begin a subject properly you must begin at the beginning.
+
+Boys who don't like history need not read this chapter, for in it we
+tell how the steam engine began, and if it never had begun, you know,
+there would never have been any engineers, nor any necessity for
+writing this book.
+
+For two or three generations we have had the story of James Watt told
+us; how when a boy and watching his mother's tea-kettle one day he saw
+the steam lift the lid, and that suggested the idea that if a little
+steam could lift the lid of a kettle, a great deal would lift still
+heavier weights and revolutionize the world.
+
+Now they tell us that Watt was not the first one to have this idea by
+several, that it was first suggested by the Marquis of Worcester, in
+his book called the "Century of Inventions," as "a way to drive up
+water by fire," A. D. 1663.
+
+This was about a hundred years before Watt came on deck, but the
+marquis never put his idea into practice, and Watt did, so to the
+latter the credit belongs.
+
+Here are a few dates:
+
+Watt's invention of the separate condenser, 1765; Watt's first patent,
+1769; Watt's first working engine introduced into a manufactory, 1775;
+first steam engine erected in Ireland, 1791; first steamboat run on the
+Hudson, 1797; first steamboat abroad, 1801.
+
+First regular steamboat ever run was from Albany to New York. The name
+of the boat was the North River, her builder was Robert Fulton, and she
+made the passage in 33 hours.
+
+The first railroad was built in England, in 1811.
+
+The first ocean steamer was the Savannah, an American craft of 350
+tons, which sailed from New York for Liverpool, July 15, 1819, making
+the voyage in 26 days.
+
+Such were the early beginnings of steam.
+
+There are three principal kinds of engineers, locomotive, steamboat and
+stationary.
+
+In this little book we propose to deal mainly with the duties of a
+locomotive engineer.
+
+If one is a good locomotive engineer he can easily learn to manage
+the engine of a steamboat; and if he is skilled in either of these
+particulars he will have no difficulty with the biggest stationary
+engine ever built.
+
+[Illustration: THE FIRST LOCOMOTIVE.]
+
+The work of the different engineers differs only in detail, not in kind.
+
+Let us now glance at the history of the steam horse, which has done
+more than any other one thing to revolutionize the world.
+
+Be very sure that the locomotive, with its pistons, its spinning
+drive wheels, its polished steel and shining brass, did not come into
+existence all at once.
+
+By no means. Like everything else in the way of mechanical invention
+that attains greatness, the locomotive had an insignificant beginning
+to reach which we shall be obliged to get back somewhere about the
+middle of the last century, for then it was that the desire for faster
+traveling than horses can furnish seems to have had its birth.
+
+The first attempt at a railway seems to have been at Colebrook Dale,
+England, a spot celebrated for having the first iron bridge in the
+world--where a small iron road was constructed in connection with some
+mines; a horse furnished the motive power here.
+
+The first railroad then was without a locomotive, and, strangely enough
+the first locomotive was without a railroad on which to run.
+
+The first locomotive made its appearance in France. It was simply a
+huge tea kettle on wheels, and was built by Joseph Cugnot at Paris in
+the year 1769.
+
+It is the custom of English writers to ignore Cugnot's invention, and
+claim for themselves the origin of the locomotive; but that is only a
+pleasant way the English usually have.
+
+Cugnot's locomotive actually existed though, and was undoubtedly the
+first. It was operated by means of two bronze cylinders, into which the
+steam passed through a tube from the boiler--escaping through another
+tube.
+
+The boiler was fastened on the front of the car, which moved on three
+wheels--the steam acted only on the foremost wheel.
+
+The speed of Cugnot's locomotive was about three miles an hour. On the
+first trial it ran into a building and was broken to pieces.
+
+In 1784 the famous Watt patented a steam locomotive engine in England,
+which, however, never was put to use.
+
+In 1802, Trevethick and Vivian patented a locomotive, which, in 1804,
+traveled at the rate of five miles an hour, drawing behind it a load of
+ten tons of coal.
+
+Several other "traveling engines," as they were then styled, were
+invented by other mechanical engineers with only moderate success, it
+being reserved for Stephenson, in 1811, to build the first locomotive
+that should prove of practical use.
+
+About this time a man named Thomas Gray, of Nottingham, England,
+brought upon himself the contempt and ridicule of the whole English
+nation by pushing forward the idea of the locomotive in connection with
+coal mines.
+
+[Illustration: OLD NO. 1.]
+
+"It is all very well to spend money on these railway schemes," said
+a member of parliament about that time referring to Gray's projects,
+"it will do some good to the poor, but I will eat all the coals your
+railways will ever carry."
+
+127,000,000 tons were carried recently in one year, on English
+railroads alone. What a tough time this parliamentary slow coach would
+have had to swallow all that!
+
+The first practical locomotive in the world--Stephenson's invention,
+was Old No. 1, which pulled the first regular train on the Stockton and
+Darlington R. R. on Tuesday, September 27, 1825.
+
+Old No. 1 cost $2,500 to build. It was a very clumsy affair; nothing
+better, in fact, than a big boiler on four wheels, which were moved by
+great levers worked by pistons from the top of the machine.
+
+[Illustration: THE ROCKET.]
+
+Old No. 1 has been preserved, and was, in the year 1859, placed upon a
+pedestal in that English town of Darlington as a public memorial of the
+beginning of the railway.
+
+No sooner had the Stockton and Darlington R. R. proved itself a success
+than all England was in arms against it. Here are some of the absurd
+objections urged against railroads, taken from the newspapers of the
+day.
+
+Steam horses were "contrary to nature;" they were "damaging to good
+morals and religion;" the smoke of the locomotive would "obscure the
+sun, and thereby ruin the crops." Farmyards and farmhouses would be
+burned by their sparks; the clanking, puffing locomotive would have
+such an effect on the mind as to drive people crazy (this was backed up
+by certificates from a dozen doctors); locomotives would cause springs
+to dry up and fields to become sterile; they would create great chasms
+by constantly running over the same ground.
+
+What twaddle!
+
+Yet all their objections were made in good faith, and we have by no
+means selected the most absurd.
+
+Old No. 1. proving too clumsy, a lighter locomotive was soon after
+built by Stephenson, called the "Rocket," which we illustrate. It won a
+prize of $1,500 in 1829, and is still preserved in the great locomotive
+works at Newcastle-on-Tyne, England.
+
+The first railroad in America was built from the granite quarries of
+Quincy, Mass., to the Neponset river, a few miles distant.
+
+Peter Cooper built one of the first American locomotives. It ran on the
+Baltimore and Ohio R. R., and was called the Tom Thumb.
+
+The boiler of the Tom Thumb was built of gun barrels and shaped like a
+huge bottle standing upright upon a simple platform car.
+
+Such was the beginning of the locomotive.
+
+In Great Britain alone over 600,000,000 people are annually drawn by
+locomotives.
+
+Add to these figures, which represent only a small island, the persons
+drawn by locomotives in America, Europe, and other parts of the world,
+and the number becomes stupendous almost beyond belief.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+DESCRIPTION OF THE LOCOMOTIVE.
+
+
+In order to become an engineer, the first thing necessary is to gain a
+thorough understanding of the peculiarly complicated machine which it
+is the duty of engineers to control.
+
+This is of the highest importance, and a careful study of this chapter
+and the diagrams accompanying it will be of great assistance to anybody
+who contemplates becoming an engineer.
+
+There are locomotives and locomotives, all built on the same general
+plan, but varying in details according to the ideas of their builders,
+and the class of work which they are expected to perform.
+
+[Illustration: AN AMERICAN LOCOMOTIVE WITH TWO DRIVING WHEELS.]
+
+Thus for elevated roads and short surface lines, devoted principally to
+passenger travel, locomotives of light capacity are employed; costing
+less at the start, and being less expensive to run.
+
+[Illustration: AMERICAN LOCOMOTIVE WITH FOUR DRIVING WHEELS.]
+
+The "dummy" is even a grade below these, being practically a stationary
+engine set on a car with driving wheels attached.
+
+[Illustration: OUTSIDE VIEW OF LOCOMOTIVE.]
+
+[Illustration: INSIDE VIEW OF LOCOMOTIVE.]
+
+In America our locomotives are built with long boilers and have a
+general trim appearance.
+
+Some have two driving wheels, others, still longer, have four. We
+illustrate both of them.
+
+English locomotives present a clumsy appearance alongside the American.
+
+For us to attempt to decide which is the best, would be the height of
+presumption.
+
+Certain it is, however, that English locomotives do run at a greater
+average speed than those in the United States.
+
+We will now proceed to describe by tabular arrangement, an English
+locomotive.
+
+This description will practically describe the American locomotive as
+well.
+
+We cannot enter into a detailed description of both for want of space,
+and select therefore the machine which has attained to the highest
+speed.
+
+We will first look at the outside of the locomotive.
+
+1, 2, 3, Barrel of Boiler. 6, Smoke-box. 22, Smoke Stack. 32, Spring
+balance.
+
+33, Whistle. 34, Dome. 64, Exhaust pipe. 70, Cab. 85, Brake blocks. 87,
+Life guards. 88, Trailing axle and wheel. 59, Heading axle and wheel.
+54, Driving axle. O, Speed indicator. P, Splasher. S, Sand-box. T,
+Tool-box. V, Safety valve. W, Balance-wheel.
+
+Let us now take an inside view of the locomotive. Compare the numbers
+carefully with the cut, and take time to think what you are doing,
+otherwise don't read this part at all.
+
+1, 2, 3, Rings arranged telescopically, forming barrel of boiler.
+4, Solid angle-iron ring. 5, Tube plate. 6, Smoke box. 7, Shell, or
+covering plate. 8, Foundation ring. 9, Throat plate. 10, Back plate.
+11, Fire door. 12, Covering plate of inside fire-box. 13, Tube plate.
+14, Back plate. 15, Stays. 16, Mouth-piece. 17, Stays from inside
+fire-box to shell plate. 18, Palm stays. 19, Tubes. 20, Smoke-box door.
+21, Pinching screw. 22, Chimney. 23, Chimney cap. 24, Blast pipe. 25,
+Top of blast pipe. 26, Balance weight. 27, Wheel spokes. 28, Front
+buffer. 29, Mud plug. 30, Safety valve. 31, Safety lever. 32, Spring
+balance. 33, Whistle. 34, Dome. 35, Regulator. 36, Steam pipes. 37,
+Elbow pipe. 38, Brick arch. 39, Fire bars. 40, Ash pan. 41, Front
+damper. 42, Back damper. 43, Frame plate. 44, Iron buffer beam (front).
+45, Iron buffer beam (back). 46, (See half width plan) cylinder. 47,
+Cylinder posts, valve. 48, Valve chest. 49, Steel motion plate. 50,
+Horn blocks. 51, Axle boxes. 52, Slide bars. 53, Connecting rod. 54,
+Crank shaft. 55, Crank shaft, big end of. 56, Crank shaft, arm of. 57,
+Expansion link. 58, Weigh-bar shaft. 59, Valve spindle. 60, Valve rod
+guide. (See half width plan). 61, Pump. 62, Delivery pipe. 63, Field
+pipe. 64, Exhaust pipe. 65, Volute spring. 66, Draw-bar hook. 67, Lamp
+iron. 68, Oil cup. 69, Oil pipes. 70, Cab. 71, Regulator handle. 72,
+Reversing lever. 73, Draw-bar. 74, Draw-pin. 75, Steam-brake cylinder.
+76, Hand-brake. 77, Sand-rod. 78, Front damper. 79, Back damper. 80,
+Trailing wheel. 81, Driving wheel. 82, Leading wheel. 83, Spring. 84,
+Hand rail. 85, Brake blocks. 86, Waste water-cocks. 87, Life guard. 88,
+Railing axle. 89, Leading axle. Z, Lead plug.
+
+43, Frame plate from end to end of engine. 44, Iron buffer-beam. 46,
+Cylinders. 50, Horn block, to carry axle-box and brass. 51, Axle-box
+and brass. 52, Slide bars. 53, Connecting-rod. 54, Driving axle. 55,
+Big end of driving axle. 56, Arm of driving axle. 59, Valve-spindle.
+60, Valve-rod guide. 61, Pump. 76, Hand brake. 85, Brake blocks. 88,
+Trailing axle. 89, Leading axle. 90, Piston rod. 91, Piston head, held
+on the rod by a brass nut. 92, Backway eccentric rod. 93, Frontway
+eccentric rod. 94, Eccentric Straps. 95, Eccentric sheaves. 96, Tire.
+97, Lip on tire. 98, Brake irons. 99, Foot plating. 100, Transverse
+stay. A, Water space between inside and outside fire boxes. B,
+Slide-block with end of pump-ram screwed into the end. C, Link motion
+(see 57, inside view). D, Slide valve rod, working guide. H, Inside
+journal, showing how the axle is supported inside of frame plates. I,
+Cross-head, solid, with piston rod.
+
+[Illustration: UNDERNEATH THE LOCOMOTIVE--HALF WIDTH PLAN.]
+
+15, stays in walls of fire-boxes. 18, stays from crown plate to
+covering plate. 19, tubes. 23, smoke-stack. 40, ash-pan. 54, crank
+shaft. 55, big end of crank-shaft. 56, arm of big end. 34, dome.
+
+[Illustration: IN FRONT OF THE LOCOMOTIVE CROSS-SECTION.]
+
+A, water space. F, nave of wheel. P, P, splashers over driving wheels.
+R, right side of engine. L, left side of engine.
+
+75, steam brake handle. 33, whistle handle. 23, smoke stack. K, K,
+weather glasses. O, speed indicator. E, conductor's bell. N, oil for
+cylinder. X, blower handle. R, right side of engine. L, left side of
+engine. M, M, gauge glasses.
+
+
+SOME POINTS ABOUT THE LOCOMOTIVE.
+
+Here are a few interesting points about this particular locomotive
+which we have just been describing.
+
+It is a single engine on six wheels--which are well distributed, with a
+large boiler of abundant steam generating power with cylinders of great
+capacity, and driving wheels of moderate diameter.
+
+It is accompanied by a tender on six wheels, capable of holding a
+supply of 2,520 gallons of water, and 40 cwt. of coal.
+
+Notwithstanding its great capacity, this tender is so low that a tall
+man may stand on top of the coal without fear of being knocked down by
+bridges.
+
+There are over 47 tons of metal in the locomotive and tender.
+
+When they are in full working order the gross weight with water and
+fuel amounts to 59 tons.
+
+This locomotive drew its first train 87 miles in 1 hour and 50 minutes.
+
+
+DIFFERENCES IN LOCOMOTIVES.
+
+It is an old saying and a true one that no two locomotives are ever
+alike, any more than two men are ever alike.
+
+The difference is due not so much to the materials of which the
+locomotive is built as to the method in which they are put together,
+for no two engines were ever put together geometrically alike.
+
+They may differ in some simple matter. It may be in the casting of the
+cylinders, in the quality of the copper of the fire box, in the valves
+or in the smoke stack. Whatever the difference may be there is still
+always a difference which is bound to affect the running qualities
+either for better or for worse.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.
+
+
+The boy who aims to become an engineer, if he desires success, must
+make up his mind to two things.
+
+First, that he will, all his life, have plenty of hard work.
+
+Second, that he will, in spite of all obstacles become a good engineer.
+
+A boy who looks forward to the honorable calling should be of robust
+health and perfect physically. If these conditions do not exist, he
+should abandon the thought at once, and turn his attention to something
+else.
+
+There is no royal road to engineering any more than there is to any
+other honorable calling.
+
+A position must first be obtained in the round house as general helper.
+
+For a time the candidate must content himself with doing chores,
+cleaning up and any odd jobs which are given him to do.
+
+At this stage of the game he must cultivate habits of observation, be
+an attentive listener and try to understand and remember the "engine
+talk," that is going on about him.
+
+Everything he learns in this way is going to be of service later on.
+
+For the first few months, unless he is fortunate enough to gain favor
+in the eyes of some obliging engineer, no one is going to stop to
+explain matters and he need not expect it. Nevertheless there are a
+thousand and one little things that he can pick up if he is shrewd, all
+of which will come in play later on.
+
+When the locomotive is taken out watch how they do it. When it comes in
+keep your eyes open for points, and you will be sure to get them. When
+it breaks down and comes in for repairs then is the very time of all
+others to be on hand if you can and watch how they fix it.
+
+Every day will bring its own information--the boy's work is to watch
+and remember, but he must not ask too many questions, and never any at
+improper times, unless he desires the ill-will of everybody in the yard.
+
+By and bye he will be made an oiler, put to cleaning the big iron horse
+and other work of similar sort.
+
+After a time he will slip into a fireman's job, and then he must
+understand that his chance has come. Now all depends upon himself.
+
+Make friends with your engineer while you are acting as fireman, and
+learn from him all you can.
+
+The way to make friends is to be industrious, obliging and always
+courteous, no matter how tired you are or how badly things seem to go.
+
+The troubles and disappointments of one day should not be brought down
+to the next.
+
+Let every day be a new beginning in itself.
+
+Don't drink.
+
+Don't swear.
+
+Don't lose your temper and flare out under reproof.
+
+Don't shirk your work and try to do as little us you can.
+
+[Illustration: BEHIND THE LOCOMOTIVE--LOOKING IN FROM THE CAB.]
+
+Don't say to yourself so and so ain't my work and I ain't going to do
+it. Do whatever your hands find to do and do it with all your might.
+
+A model engineer is distinguished by the fullness of his knowledge of
+the engine, and this must be learned while you are a fireman--not after
+you become an engineer.
+
+He should love his work--the locomotive should be his hobby--and
+whatever contributes to enlarge his stock of information concerning
+it should contribute to his happiness. Unless he can feel that way,
+he should promptly step out of the cab and turn his attention to some
+other business, for he can never hope to make a good engineer.
+
+On the engine is the only place where one can learn to be an engineer.
+
+During the time the engine is under steam with a train, everything
+seen, heard, felt and smelt is capable of affording a lesson.
+
+On the engine the eye is trained to distinguish different colors at
+considerable distances. If one is color-blind he cannot be a good
+engineer.
+
+On the engine the ear learns to detect the slightest variation in the
+beats and knocks about the machinery--to distinguish the difference
+between the knock of an axle box and the knock of a journal.
+
+On the engine the body learns to distinguish the shocks, oscillations,
+etc., which are due to a defective road from those which arise from a
+defective engine. The olfactory nerves became very sensitive so as to
+detect the generation of heat from friction before any mischief is done.
+
+It is only while an engine is in steam and going at good speed that the
+rocks, coral-reefs and sand-banks on railways can be seen and learned,
+and the value of and the rank acquired by an engineer are in exact
+proportion to the pains he takes to find them out, and to remark their
+dangerous position on his chart.
+
+A model engineer can tell you all about any particular engine he
+happens to see merely by glancing at it.
+
+He will be able to say this was built by so and so. I know it by this
+crank, that piston. "Look here," he says, "that rod was built when I
+was a boy, it's all out of date now, consequently the engine must have
+been built in such a year."
+
+In short the model engineer should be familiar with the history of
+locomotive engines from Old No. 1 down to date.
+
+The model engineer is always a good fireman.
+
+A man may be a first-rate mechanic, he may have worked at the best
+class of machinery, he may have built engines and have read all the
+published books on the locomotive, and yet, if he is not a good hand
+at the coal shovel, he will never be a first-class engineer.
+
+A good fireman knows when to put on coal, how and where and just how
+much. A man may be the best mechanic the world ever saw and know
+nothing of these things which are the very all essentials of a good
+engineer.
+
+A model engineer is clean himself, and his engine is cleaner.
+
+Cleanliness is said to be next to godliness. Upon a railroad it may
+with truth be said that cleanliness is next below the highest talent
+and next above the length of service.
+
+A clean engineer frequently scales the ladder of progress much faster
+than a dirty one, although the latter may have everything else in his
+favor.
+
+A model engineer runs the most important trains, and he is never the
+man who wore the greasy, dirty cap or the coat and trousers all smeared
+with oil.
+
+What is the secret of constant successful engine driving?
+
+Not length of service, not because a man has served so many years on
+freight trains and so many more on passenger trains, for the best
+engineers are ever those who have been promoted over the heads of
+others for their smartness.
+
+Promotion according to merit should be the invariable rule on
+railroads. Seniority should have nothing to do with it. The position
+is too important, there are too many lives at stake, too much money
+involved to make it right or proper to push one man forward beyond
+another simply because of the length of his service. That sort of thing
+is all right for ordinary business, but for engine driving it won't do.
+
+Merit tells.
+
+To the best engineer belong the best trains.
+
+Chance never built an engine, and it should have nothing to do with
+running it.
+
+Yet the opposite way of doing things is the general rule.
+
+Engineer A retires, dies or is killed, and Engineer B is promoted
+because he happens to be next on the list. He may be a dull, stupid
+fellow, and Engineer C as bright as a dollar, but in the chance death
+of A, B gets the prize, and everybody that has any interest in the
+successful running of his train becomes the loser thereby.
+
+Engine driving, to be good, must be based upon rules and principles.
+
+He who strictly observes them wins; he who don't, loses. With the
+latter all is uncertainty; the hand trembles upon the regulator, the
+eye watches with painful anxiety the needle of the pressure gauge, and
+gazes into the fire to find out its deficiencies, but gains nothing
+but blindness by the attempt.
+
+With the engineer who has a reason for every act performed, either
+by himself or his fireman, all is different. He works by rules and
+principles that have proved themselves a thousand times over to be
+safe, practical and certain in their results.
+
+Sound rules and principles are absolutely sure in the effects of their
+application--not right to-day and wrong to-morrow; not right in a short
+trip and all astray on a long one; not right on one particular engine
+and wrong on another; not right on the first part of the run and wrong
+at the end; not right with one kind of coal and wrong with another, but
+_always right, every time_.
+
+Under the guidance of sound rules and principles, the mind of the
+driver is full, and he is enabled, under all circumstances, to handle
+the regulator with confidence, to travel with a boiler full of steam,
+and to finish with success.
+
+In a word, these are rules and principles which lead up to and make the
+success of an engineer.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+DUTIES OF AN ENGINEER.
+
+
+Let us now consider in detail some of the more important duties of an
+engineer.
+
+
+THE NOTICE BOARD.
+
+Before going to his engine an engineer should, for his own safety, as
+well as that of the public, visit the special and general notice boards
+and post himself fully upon the running of the trains for the day. By
+neglecting this more than one engineer has lost his life.
+
+An anecdote bearing on this is related on good authority, as follows:
+
+"By incessant rain a river had become so swollen that, owing to the
+rush of water, the spiles of a wooden railway bridge became shifted.
+
+"The bridge was inspected, and one side of it pronounced to be
+dangerous. Arrangements were made to use only one track until
+repairs could be made, and notice of such arrangements posted in the
+round-house.
+
+"The engineer neglected to visit the notice board, ran his train past
+the man appointed to pilot him over the break, got his train off the
+track, and was killed."
+
+After the engineer has read the notices and made himself thoroughly
+acquainted with them, he may proceed to his engine--not before.
+
+
+INSPECTION OF THE ENGINE.
+
+When on the foot plate the first thing an engineer wants to do is to
+inspect his engine in every part.
+
+Begin with the water in the gauge glass and ascertain its level and
+find out whether it correctly indicates the height of the water in the
+boiler by opening the lower cock in the usual manner.
+
+Satisfied that the boiler is safe, the engineer must assume the
+responsibility of looking after it, for should anything prove wrong
+afterward, he alone can be called to account.
+
+He should also observe what pressure of steam there is in the boiler,
+what is the condition of the fire, how much coal there is in the tender
+and its quality, and lastly that the water supply is all right.
+
+If the inspection is made properly all will go well; if in a
+half-hearted, slip-shod fashion trouble is sure to follow.
+
+
+INSPECTION OF AN ENGINE OVER A PIT.
+
+It is a good and a safe rule to examine an engine over a pit before
+starting out. When this is done properly and regularly, the habit is
+unmistakably the mark of a good engineer.
+
+That an engine may be properly examined over a pit, it is necessary
+that it should be placed in such a position that every part of it may
+be seen and inspected without having the machinery moved.
+
+The examination, to be complete, should be commenced at one specified
+point, and continued all around the engine, until the engineer returns
+to the place where he began.
+
+In general, the only tools needed are wrenches.
+
+The inspection should begin at the trailing engine axle, on the
+engineer's side, and the best rule is to examine everything, not
+forgetting the fact that more engines break down in consequence of
+bolts and split pins working out than from any other cause.
+
+After the engineer's side has been properly examined, the under side
+of the engine next claims attention. The engineer should begin at the
+crank shaft, taking his stand, where it is possible to do so, between
+the shaft and the fire box, while he is testing the bolts and rivets
+connected with it.
+
+
+BIG ENDS.
+
+Big Ends require to be fitted brass and brass, to work well, and to be
+well-cottered or bolted up, but with sufficient slackness on the crank
+bearing to allow of their being easily moved sideways by hand, so that
+a little room may be left for the expansion of the journal by heat.
+
+Big End brasses do best, wear longest, and knock least, when tightened
+up a little at a time and often, instead of being allowed to run until
+they thump alarmingly. With proper attention they seldom run hot.
+
+
+LITTLE ENDS.
+
+Little Ends need scarcely any supervision excepting what is required
+from the oiler, provided they are fitted with steel bushes. Those
+fitted with brasses require the same attention as Big Ends.
+
+
+ECCENTRICS.
+
+When the eccentrics are being examined particular attention should be
+paid to the bolts, nuts, safety-cotters and set-pins. The bolts which
+hold the two halves of each eccentric strap together should always nip
+tightly, as any slackness always affects the engine's speed.
+
+Inspect carefully also the inside springs and axle boxes, specially
+the latter. See that the fireman oils them; if he does not, you are to
+blame.
+
+The ash-pan, piston rod, smoke box, etc., all need to be looked at with
+care, for to run right the engine must start right, and this brings us
+to the most important thing of all--the condition of the fire before
+leaving the round house, for there is no other one thing on which an
+engineer's good name, success and future prospects depend so much as on
+the condition of the fire at the beginning of the day's work.
+
+If the fire is not properly lighted at the start, no matter how good
+the engine or how smart the engineer, constant trouble during the trip,
+to say nothing of an increased consumption of coal which is bound to
+tell against him, will be the result.
+
+Don't get to your work late, and don't allow your fireman to be late.
+If the fire is to be properly built he has got to take time to it.
+Fires thrown together in a hurry always turn out bad.
+
+
+DUTIES OF A FIREMAN.
+
+As the model engineer must first have served as fireman, let us say a
+word on that score.
+
+Before a fireman can serve on a passenger train, he should have served
+awhile as freight brakeman, or in the yard shifting cars. Before going
+on an express train, he must have run on slow trains as fireman. All
+this is necessary that he may acquire a knowledge of the petty details
+of his work.
+
+A superintendent who puts a green hand at firing certainly exhibits a
+great want of good judgment, to say the least, and just this has often
+been the cause of serious accidents and loss of life.
+
+Here are a few things that a man must know before he can become an
+engineer:
+
+1. How to make up a proper fire in a locomotive fire-box.
+
+2. How to handle the shovel when the engine is running.
+
+3. How to learn roads and signals.
+
+4. How to calculate the effect of the weather on the rails.
+
+5. How to manage an engine and train on varying grades.
+
+6. How to have full control of an engine and train at full speed.
+
+7. How to work the steam expansively and yet keep time.
+
+8. How to regulate the water supply.
+
+9. How to read the gauges at a glance and understand just what they
+mean.
+
+Now all these things have got to be learned while a fireman, for unless
+you know them you can never become an engineer.
+
+Some engineers will give no instructions. They demand certain results,
+and if the fireman don't do just what they expect because he does not
+understand what is wanted, they call him a fool, snatch the shovel out
+of his hand and do the work themselves.
+
+It is the engineer who is the fool in this case, and doubly so if he
+loses his temper and swears.
+
+Certainly it is very hard for a sensitive young man to learn of such a
+master, but after all it is good discipline.
+
+Never mind if you are sworn at and dubbed an idiot. No matter if you do
+choke a few fires and stop a few trains. Persevere! Keep your temper,
+watch how the engineer does it and try to do the same yourself next
+time. Show him that you are not the idiot he has called you, prove that
+you are no fool by your patience and perseverance--qualities, like
+enough, which he himself does not possess.
+
+A first class engineer, however, will show a new fireman just what he
+wants done and how to do it.
+
+Here are a few lines from an excellent manual on engineering,
+describing the conduct of a good engineer to his fireman. Read them
+with care:
+
+"With good engineers an awkward fireman soon changes his habits and
+appearance--he gets the knots dressed off of him, as it were. Has he
+been taught to come on duty dirty and late? He is sharply reproved, and
+very properly too. Does he throw the fire irons down anywhere after
+using them? He is told there is a place for everything in that engine.
+Is he dirty about his work? He is shown how to handle the shovel, oil
+feeder and everything else without blackening himself to such a degree
+that a boy in the street mistakes him for a chimney sweep. Thanks to
+such engineers, who deserve much praise for keeping their firemen in
+proper training, for, just as they _are_ trained so will they turn out
+engineers, good or bad."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+HOW TO RUN A TRAIN.
+
+
+A good engineer works his engine with direct reference to the number of
+cars he has to pull.
+
+It would seem as though any fool might know this, yet instances are on
+record where careless engineers have actually pulled out of a station
+without their trains, and never discovered that they were missing until
+they had occasion to whistle for brakes.
+
+
+STARTING.
+
+In starting the regulator should be opened gently, especially with a
+full boiler.
+
+Care is necessary when starting to keep the cylinders and valves clear
+of water. Half a pint of water will wash the faces of the cylinders
+and valves. Slip or no slip, it is better to use a little sand than to
+incur the risk of slipping when the rails are inclined to be slippery.
+
+When the engine begins to feel its load the regulator can be opened
+more. A few clear, sonorous puffs at the start do good; they rouse the
+fire into action at once--there is no hesitation in the matter. They
+also clear the tubes of loose cinders and soot left in them after being
+swept out.
+
+When you are well under way pull the lever up a notch or two at a time
+until you get it just where you want it. Don't jerk it too far, then
+let it out too much and have to pull it back. Feel your way as you go,
+and time and trouble will be saved.
+
+Nothing looks so bad as to see an engineer suddenly close the
+regulator, pull the lever very nearly out of gear and "smack" the steam
+on again. The force with which the steam may strike the piston under
+such circumstances is very great and often may do damage.
+
+To an attentive engineer the start is full of interest; for, although
+he may have made a careful and thorough examination of his engine
+before joining his train, he cannot feel satisfied that all is right
+until the full pressure of the steam is on the piston and the engine
+feels its load.
+
+
+STEAM BLOWING.
+
+Now the engineer must begin to use his ears and eyes.
+
+As the train moves on he listens.
+
+Is the steam blowing?
+
+It is.
+
+Which side?
+
+This is the way to find out.
+
+Suppose a blow is heard at each turn and only when the outside crank
+is nearly in a straight line with the piston rod looking from the
+left-hand side of the foot-plate and with the outside cranks on the
+same center line and on the same side of the axle as the inside crank.
+
+Then it would be discovered that a piston is blowing because the
+sound is intermittent, for the blowing through of a valve would be a
+continuous leaking.
+
+Further it would be certain that the defect was not in the left hand
+cylinder, there being no steam in it when the cranks were in the
+position above described, and therefore we must look to the right hand
+cylinder where the full pressure of steam must be on the piston.
+
+
+BEATS OF THE ENGINE.
+
+There are four beats for one revolution of the driving wheel or the
+crank axle.
+
+These beats tell you in emphatic language whether the engine is running
+right, or whether there is something out of gear.
+
+Learn what they mean and never let your attention be drawn from them.
+
+If the beats weaken--any one of them--it means trouble. Taken in time
+the difficulty may be easily remedied, allowed to pass unnoticed, death
+and disaster may result.
+
+
+KEEPING UP STEAM.
+
+It is scarcely necessary to state that to properly run your engine
+steam must be kept up.
+
+When the engine has got the train up to speed, steam should begin to
+issue from the safety valves. When it does not do so there has not been
+a full boiler, as there always should be at the start and the fireman
+must be made to understand how to make a starting fire in proper shape.
+
+On short runs this does not matter so much, but on express trains it is
+of the highest importance.
+
+On long runs if the engine is not instantly up to the mark at the
+start, and if the feeds must be held off to allow the fire and the
+engine a chance of recovery, the consequences are that the water in the
+boiler gets lower and less, and the uncertainty of ever getting the
+water up again becomes greater every minute, especially with a heavy
+train and against a strong side wind.
+
+
+MANAGEMENT OF FIRES.
+
+Of course the state of the steam depends altogether upon the way
+the fires are managed, but for us to give directions how to manage
+a locomotive fire-box to the best advantage would require pages of
+description which could scarcely be understood unless one had had
+previous practical experience.
+
+Remember one thing, the engineer is responsible for the fire, even if
+he does not make it. He must therefore know when a fire is good and
+when it is bad, _why_ and _what to do_.
+
+We shall, however, describe two styles of fire, the thoroughly bad and
+the thoroughly good. All intermediate grades every man must learn for
+himself.
+
+
+HOW TO BUILD A BAD FIRE.
+
+Pile your coal up in the shape of a cone, by shoveling all the coal
+into the middle of the fire box, and putting as little on the sides as
+you possibly can.
+
+Such a fire possesses the following characteristics: Uncertainty as
+regards steam making, positive certainty as regards the destruction
+of fire boxes and tubes. It generally draws air at the walls of the
+fire-box, and in consequence, the fire-irons are always in the fire,
+knocking it about and wasting the fuel.
+
+As such fires are found in the center of the grate, they weigh down the
+bars and burn them out in the middle in short order. Lastly, the cold
+air being admitted into the fire-box up the sides instead of in the
+middle, comes in direct contact with the heated plates and stays, doing
+them a great deal of damage by causing contraction and expansion.
+
+Take the best engine ever built and let an engineer run it awhile with
+these "haycock" fires, as they are called--and many do it--you will be
+sure to find the boiler subject to sudden leakage, either in the joints
+of the plates or in the stays, the tubes, or the foundation ring. Such
+engines are always in the repair shop, and because of bad firing and
+nothing else.
+
+
+HOW TO BUILD A GOOD FIRE.
+
+The good locomotive fire should maintain steam under all circumstances
+of load or weather, should consume its own smoke, should burn up every
+particle of good matter in the coal, or, in other words, capable of
+being worked to the highest point of economy.
+
+Such a fire requires to be made at the beginning, and maintained in a
+form almost resembling the inside of a saucer, shallow and concave,
+with its thinnest part in the center.
+
+A fire like this will make steam when other fires will make none.
+
+It is the only style of fire that should be permitted by a good
+engineer.
+
+
+FIRING.
+
+To fire properly the fireman should stand in such a position as to be
+able to reach the coals in the tender easily, and to work the shovel
+without shifting his feet, except when he turns slightly on his heels,
+first, toward the coal, and then toward the fire hole.
+
+If a fireman, in the act of firing, lifts his feet off the foot
+plate, he will roll about, and the firing will be improperly done, in
+consequence of the coal being knocked off the shovel by the latter
+catching against the fire hole ring or depletion plate.
+
+Don't jam the shovel into the fire-box--stop it dead at the fire-hole
+ring. Give the coals a fling, discharging them like shot right into
+their intended destination.
+
+Don't jam your shovel into the coal and load it down as much as
+possible. A few lumps of coal lying nicely on the body of the shovel
+can be handled better. The shovel should not be pushed into the coal by
+the knees, but should be worked only by the muscles of the arm.
+
+Throw the first shovelful of coal into the left hand front corner, the
+second shovelful in the right hand front corner, the third shovelful in
+the right hand back corner, the fourth shovelful in the left hand back
+corner, the fifth shovelful under the brick arch, close to the tube
+plate; the sixth and last shovelful under the door. To land this one
+properly the shovel must enter the fire-box and should be turned over
+sharp to prevent the coals falling in the center of the grate or the
+fire.
+
+Now comes the question when to fire.
+
+To fire properly, with the greatest effect in saving fuel, it should be
+done as soon as the steam begins to lift the valves, when by opening
+the fire-door and putting on a small quantity of coal the steam is
+checked sufficiently to prevent its being wasted by blowing off.
+
+Some engineers have an idea that unless the steam blows off furiously
+they have not done their duty by the engine.
+
+A big mistake this.
+
+When steam, water and fuel are being thrown away through the safety
+valves, it is a positive proof of the existence of either one or the
+other of the following evils:
+
+Either the engine is too small for its work or too great for its man,
+and both the engine and the man would do better on short runs; the
+former until it could be doctored, or the latter until he had learned
+to bottle his noise.
+
+The intervals between the rounds of firing, which should consist of
+six shovelfuls only each time the door is opened, is in every case
+regulated by the weight of the train or load, the state of the weather
+and the time allowed for running the trip, together with the quality of
+coal.
+
+The greatest possible mistake on an engine is putting on too much coal.
+The fire is choked, clinkers are formed, the temperature of the boiler
+is reduced, contraction and expansion sets in and leaks are formed--in
+a word everything goes wrong.
+
+The secret of good firing is to fire frequently, a little at a time.
+
+
+FEEDING.
+
+Having discussed fire, let us now consider the other element upon which
+the locomotive lives--water.
+
+The maintainance of steam in proper shape requires a knowledge of how
+and when to feed.
+
+The aim in feeding should be to regulate, as nearly as possible, the
+supply to the demand--just sufficient to keep the water at a proper
+level in the glass.
+
+This keeps up an even temperature in the boiler plates, tubes and
+fire-box, and this has much to do with the service of an engine. Many
+engineers always work their feed in the precise way to get the worst
+results.
+
+As soon as the boiler is full of steam and blowing off they turn on the
+pump full and keep it on until the steam is from 30 to 50 pounds below
+the maximum pressure before turning it off.
+
+This method is the very worst possible. What is wanted is a constant
+moderate supply of water, keeping the pressure as nearly even as
+possible. Nothing can beat this.
+
+When injectors are used one of them should be screwed down so that it
+will act moderately like a pump. This will save the water which is
+usually lost in turning injector on and off.
+
+
+ON THE FOOT-PLATE.
+
+When the train is under full headway the engineer should stand in
+his proper place on the foot-plate so as to be able to command the
+regulator and reversing valve at an instant's notice.
+
+Especially is this necessary at night, when the engineer's attention
+should always be on his engine, listening constantly to its beats
+to detect any irregularity which may arise from some defect in the
+machinery, frequently casting his eyes on the pressure gauge, and on
+the level of the water in the gauge glass.
+
+When the fireman puts on coal, the engineer should look round
+occasionally, to be sure that he is doing it right, placing the coal
+next to the walls of the fire-box, and not piling them in a heap in the
+middle.
+
+When the rails are slippery, great care is required to prevent the
+engine from slipping, by closing the regulator in time.
+
+When about to enter a tunnel, the sand valves should be opened, and
+the sand allowed to flow freely until the train emerges from the
+tunnel--sand is cheaper than steam.
+
+Never forget that lives and property depend upon the faithful
+performance of your work.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+HOW TO BUILD A MODEL LOCOMOTIVE.
+
+
+As a preparatory step toward becoming an engineer, it is highly
+desirable for the boy who looks forward to that honorable calling to
+familiarize himself with the different parts of the locomotive engine.
+This we have stated before.
+
+There is no better way to accomplish it than to build a model
+locomotive.
+
+At first glance this may seem to be among the things impossible, but it
+is not so, providing the boy has a mechanical turn, and any boy who has
+not better not think of becoming an engineer.
+
+We now propose to give simple and accurate directions for building a
+model locomotive, accompanying the same with a series of illustrations,
+which we trust will be sufficient for the purpose intended.
+
+Before beginning we have one word of caution to offer.
+
+Don't do your work in a hurry. Don't calculate on the length of time
+it is going to take you to do it. Make up your mind to understand each
+detail before you begin, and to work slowly and carefully.
+
+If you remember this you will probably be able to build your
+locomotive. If you forget it you certainly will fail.
+
+
+HOW TO BEGIN.
+
+First of all in building a model locomotive, as in every other class of
+engineering work, it is necessary to get the measurements correct in
+spacing out the different parts to be joined together; and do not think
+that because it is only a model you are making that any off-hand way
+will do, because you will find before the engine is half finished that
+great accuracy is necessary if you wish your model to work.
+
+A slight mistake in the measurements of a large engine will cause so
+much friction as to take half its power to overcome. The same mistake
+with your model will stop it entirely.
+
+In soldering be careful to get the metal thoroughly heated. You will
+then get a firm joint--otherwise not.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 1.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 3.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 4.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 6.]
+
+In giving these directions we assume that the boy who will undertake to
+follow them is accustomed to the use of tools to some extent. If not,
+he will have to learn as he advances by repeated experiments.
+
+Try your experiments on something else. In soldering, for instance,
+solder pieces of brass together until you learn to make a joint.
+
+Don't try your experiments on your model, or you will grow discouraged
+before you are half through.
+
+A word more about soldering.
+
+Do not touch the metal with the soldering-iron and then take it away.
+You might be able to solder in that way but the joint would not hold,
+but fall apart at the first pressure or slight blow.
+
+Soldering on the best work should be used very seldom, and all the
+fastenings should be either done by riveting, screwing or brazing, and
+it is hardly necessary to remark that no part of a boiler should be
+soldered which comes in contact with the flame of the lamp or furnace.
+
+Brazing had better not be attempted by any boy who has not been
+practically taught the art, unless it be on small joints.
+
+To braze the seams of a model boiler would require a forge fire, or a
+very powerful gas blast--too expensive for the amateur. Small things
+such as a broken slide valve, rod, etc., can be brazed by using a gas
+blowpipe.
+
+This will cost but little to make, and as it will be useful, we
+explain. See Fig. 1.
+
+To make a blowpipe such as is pictured in Fig. 1, first get a small
+piece of brass tube, A, of about half an inch diameter, and 5 inches
+long. Drill a hole at 2 inches from one end, and insert a piece of gas
+pipe, B, soldering it in place.
+
+Now take a glass tube a quarter of an inch in diameter and 7 inches
+long, hold one end in a gas flame, and when red-hot draw it out to a
+fine point, then file round and break off the tip, leaving a small hole.
+
+Now take a sound cork and squeeze it into the tube A as at C, drill a
+quarter inch hole through its center, insert the glass tube D, and the
+blow pipe is finished.
+
+To use it you connect the pipe B with a gas bracket by means of a
+rubber tube, and attach the glass tube D to a pair of bellows by means
+of another piece of rubber tubing. The bellows should have an air-bag
+attached. Otherwise you will have a jerky, uncertain flame.
+
+When you want to braze any article, bind the parts together with some
+very fine brass wire and cover with a little powdered borax and water;
+then lay the article on a piece of charcoal, and if it is necessary to
+preserve the temper of the steel you are about brazing, cut a potato
+in half and push each end of the steel rod into the halves, which will
+keep the temperature from getting too high.
+
+Then turn on the gas and start your blow pipe, at the same time
+working the bellows with your foot, and by either pushing in the glass
+tube D, or drawing it slightly out, you can regulate the shape of the
+flame as required.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 2.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 5.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 7.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 8.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 11.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 12.]
+
+Now bring the flame to bear on the joint you wish to braze, having
+first supplied plenty of borax. Soon you will find the brass wire
+melting and running into the joint like water. It must then be neatly
+filled up and the joint will be scarcely visible.
+
+Here are a few tools which will be useful to you in this work.
+
+A center punch, or steel spike for mashing metal for drilling, etc.,
+and a small riveting hammer. Three or four files of different degrees
+of fineness, a screw plate and taps, a small hand-drill with a set of
+drills to fit and a good firm vise.
+
+A lathe is of course desirable. Curves for bending metal you can easily
+make from pieces of bar-iron, holding them in the vise while working on
+them.
+
+When you have your tools ready get the material for your model.
+
+Several sheets of brass and copper, the castings and various sized
+screws and bolts are what will be required.
+
+All being thus prepared the time has arrived to take the
+
+
+FIRST STEP.
+
+The first step toward building a model locomotive is to be posted on
+the action of steam in the cylinder.
+
+Go to encyclopedia and read up on that point.
+
+If you have no encyclopedia go and look one up in some library. You
+can't build your engine until you understand this.
+
+Next draw an accurate plan of your model.
+
+Figure 2 is the idea. It is a side view of our locomotive. Let us
+describe.
+
+A. Boiler.
+
+B. Smoke-stack.
+
+C. Screwhead, to fill boiler with water.
+
+D. Steam chest with safety valve attached on top.
+
+E. Whistle.
+
+F. Steam tap to start the engine with.
+
+H. H. Leading and trailing wheels.
+
+I. Driving wheel.
+
+K. Cylinders.
+
+L. Frame.
+
+M. Buffers.
+
+N. Set thumbscrew to fasten on the tender.
+
+O. The lamp.
+
+P. Tap, used to ascertain the quantity of water in the boiler.
+
+R. S. Hand rail.
+
+To all locomotives there are three principal parts, the frame work, or
+carriage, the engine, or cylinders, and parts connected with them, and
+the boiler.
+
+Our model shall be a fifteen inch one.
+
+
+LAYING OUT MATERIALS
+
+is the next thing in order. First we want a sheet of brass for the bed
+plate, 1/16th of an inch thick, cut 4×14 inches, and be sure to cut the
+corners square. (See Figure 3.)
+
+Hammer this out flat, file it smooth and dress up, with emery cloth
+fastened upon a flat piece of wood.
+
+Next cut a square hole in it as at C, beginning half an inch from B,
+and making the opening 11 × 1-1/2 inches. Be careful to center this
+hole on the line A B, or your engine will be lopsided, and you must
+take the same care in setting the smoke stack, dome, etc.
+
+Now take Fig. 4. This represents one of the side frames. Cut these out
+now, thus:
+
+Drill holes at A B C for the axles to work in. Finish both sides the
+same way. Turn the bed plate upside down, fasten the frames on at a
+quarter of an inch from either side by small angle pieces (Fig. 5), or
+by soldering, which is easier done. Then solder a piece across each
+end, about half an inch deep, and the frame is ready for the wheels.
+
+These you can make if you have a lathe, but it would be better to buy
+your wheels ready made if you can, but if you can't do that, and have
+the lathe, turn your tires up to the form shown in Fig. 6.
+
+The small wheels should be about 2-1/2 inches in diameter, and the
+driving wheels, 4 inches. The rim, B, should project a little over
+1/16th of an inch, and the rest of the edge should be beveled off
+rightly, as at A.
+
+The spokes should then be filed up smooth, drilling out the center hole
+for the axle before removing it from the lathe.
+
+Great care must be taken to turn both the driving wheels to exactly
+the same diameter, or one wheel would travel further in a revolution
+than the other, and as they ought both to be fixed rigidly on the crank
+shaft, the engine would never travel in a straight line, but would go
+round and round in a circle.
+
+Get some steel wire for the axles and fasten them to the wheels by
+soldering or by cutting a slot with a fine file in the center of the
+wheel, as at A, Fig. 7. Then file a small portion of the ends of the
+axle flat and drive in a brass wedge made by a piece of wire which will
+hold them together firmly.
+
+The crank shaft, or axle, must be hammered up to shape, making it hot
+occasionally in the gas flame while working it.
+
+The cranks should be at right angles to each other, and the throw of
+the crank half the distance of the cylinder stroke.
+
+For instance, say the cylinder being a 1-1/2 inch stroke, the distance
+between A B (Fig. 8) will be three-quarters of an inch, you must then
+ease the size of the crank at A to prevent the piston knocking the
+cylinder ends.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 9.]
+
+The cylinders you had better buy ready made or have them made for you.
+Get a pair of oscillating cylinders of three-quarter inch bore and inch
+and a half stroke. These will drive your engines several miles an hour.
+
+Fig. 9 gives an underneath view of the frame work and the place to put
+the cylinders in. They must be supported by two lugs, A A, screwed to
+the bed plate B, which must have a piece cut out on either side to
+allow the driving wheels C, to work in, as at D; because, being larger
+than the others, they project beyond the top of the bed plate, as shown
+in Fig. 2.
+
+Next screw on by means of the hook F, the buffer beam, previously cut
+from a piece of mahogany, 5 inches long, half an inch thick and one
+inch deep, nicely squared and sand papered. Drill a hole at G, and pass
+the shank of the hook through the beam and piece of brass in front of
+the frame, screwing up tight with nut H.
+
+For buffers you may take two brass, flat-headed screws, and attach
+them to the beam half an inch from either end, allowing half an inch
+projection.
+
+Now polish everything smooth and bright. Next warm the model over the
+gas--don't let it get hot--and carefully lacquer it with a small brush
+taking care not to go over any part more than once. The spokes of the
+wheels must be painted, the buffer beams varnished and the cylinders
+painted, leaving the covers and flanges bright. Now put away your work
+to dry, covering carefully from dust.
+
+
+HOW TO MAKE THE BOILER.
+
+In making the boiler you can't be too careful. This is the part where
+the greatest chance for failure comes in.
+
+Buy a piece of copper tubing 11 inches long, 3 inches wide and half an
+inch in diameter.
+
+If you want to make it yourself bend your copper round a wooden roller
+and rivet or solder together--riveting is the best if you can get it
+tight. You must then turn two circles of brass about an eighth of an
+inch thick for the ends and polish all. Fig 10 gives you the idea.
+
+Now push the ends into either end of the tube about an eighth of
+an inch from the edge, as at A, Fig. 11, and solder in place. The
+projecting flange must be hammered down all around as at B, soldered
+and finished with a half round file. When filing solder use only an old
+worn file as a good one soon fills up.
+
+
+SMOKESTACK, TUBES, ETC.
+
+Now drill a hole at A (Fig. 10) for the smokestack, which should be
+three-quarters of an inch in diameter. Then cut a slot in the bottom of
+the boiler 6 inches long by 1-1/2 inches wide, commencing one-quarter
+of an inch from the forward end of the boiler.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 10.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 13.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 14.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 15.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 16.]
+
+Next take a sheet of copper and cut a piece about 6-1/4 inches long
+by 6 inches wide and bend it over a wooden roller to the shape shown
+in Fig. 12, keeping it 1-1/2 inches apart between A and B. Cut also
+two other pieces of copper to the shape of your bent sheet (Fig. 12),
+and make it long enough to reach to the dotted line. These form the
+two ends, and may be placed an eighth of an inch from the edges, as in
+Fig. 13, and soldered in place, and the projecting rims turned over and
+sweated with solder from the outside, in the same manner that you did
+the boiler ends in Fig. 11. Then drill a three-quarter inch hole at B
+(Fig. 13) for the bottom of the smokestack to go into, and cut a piece
+of three-quarter inch brass tubing of sufficient length to pass out at
+top of boiler about half an inch, as shown at A, Fig. 10. You can then
+hammer out a rim or flange on the bottom end of the smokestack and push
+it up through the hole in the copper box, soldering it in place from
+the top as at A, Fig. 14. Then drill two small holes at each end of the
+box, B C, Fig. 14. These should be a little more than an eighth of an
+inch in diameter, to allow an eighth of an inch tube to pass through.
+
+Now get two 12-inch lengths of hard drawn steam pipe, an eighth of an
+inch in diameter, and with your screw plate put a thread on each end,
+about half an inch in length. Then make eight nuts to fit the threads
+on the piping, filing them up into proper shape.
+
+Now take the piping and bend it very gently, to prevent it cracking,
+around a bar of iron or handle of some tool held in the vise, until
+it is in the form shown in Fig. 15. Do each one the same, then mix a
+little turpentine with white lead, and smear each end, where you have
+formed the screws, taking care not to get any into the tubes, which can
+be temporarily plugged up.
+
+Next put a nut at either end, as far as the thread will take it, then
+smear a little white lead around the holes drilled in the ends of the
+box, B C, Fig. 14.
+
+Push the tubes in from the inside, and screw up firmly with the
+remaining nuts, in the position shown at Fig. 16. The inside nuts can
+then be tightened up with a wrench, and if you do all this carefully,
+you will never be troubled with any leakage, no matter what pressure
+you may get in your boiler.
+
+These tubes are immensely strong, and owing to their small size, the
+water in them is raised quickly to a higher temperature than that
+contained in the rest of the boiler, causing a continual circulation to
+take place, and a constant supply of steam to be found.
+
+The box can now be placed in the boiler, through the slot cut in the
+bottom, taking care that the top of the box is not more than half way
+up the boiler, as at B, Fig. 10. This will leave a portion projecting
+below the lower edge of boiler like C. This part protects the flame
+of the lamp from being blown away by the draught caused by traveling
+along, and which would cause you to lose steam. Solder it firmly in
+position from the outside to prevent the flame from touching any
+soldered portion. Also solder neatly round A, Fig. 10.
+
+The smoke stack can be made from another piece of three-quarter inch
+brass; turn it up in your lathe bright and put a collar on it at A Fig.
+17, to allow it to push on to the piece of tube left projecting at A
+Fig. 10.
+
+The top of the smoke stack, B Fig. 17, will also require turning in the
+lathe and must be fitted on neatly.
+
+Get advice from some mechanic about the steam chest, which is a brass
+casting and will have to be turned up in the lathe, and after cutting a
+circular hole in the top of the boiler of about an inch in diameter it
+can be either screwed or soldered on, previously putting the steam pipe
+E in position by drilling a hole at F and after bending it as shown,
+pass it through at F and solder in place. The top of pipe E should be
+about a quarter of an inch from the top of inside of steam chest.
+
+Before soldering on the steam chest drill two holes as at G H Fig. 10,
+one for the small lug G to be screwed into, which holds one end of the
+lever of the safety valve, and that at H should be drilled conical with
+a rimer, and the valve H can be turned in the lathe and afterwards
+ground to fit the hole with a little emery and water, by means of a
+slot cut across the top and worked round with a screw driver.
+
+The spring case of the safety valve I, Figure 10, is easily made from
+a piece of one-eighth inch brass tubing, using some small, hard, brass
+wire to form the spring. When finished it should be hooked to the eye
+and screwed into the boiler at V.
+
+The manhole or screwhead, K, is used to refill the boiler when it has
+steamed low and will have to be turned up to shape, and the bed, L,
+which it screws into can be firmly soldered on the boiler, having first
+drilled a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the screw itself,
+which should be sufficiently large to allow an ordinary tin funnel to
+be used to refill by, and the screw ought to be long enough to hold a
+leather washer under the head to keep it steam-tight.
+
+The whistle, M, will require a hole drilled for it to be screwed into,
+and that, as also the steam-tap, N, and water-tap, O, can be bought
+cheap, ready to put on.
+
+The tap O should be screwed in at a slightly higher level than the top
+of box B, and when working the engine should steam issue from it when
+turned on instead of water, you ought to immediately blow off steam by
+safety valve H. Then unscrew K, and refill the boiler with water.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 17.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 18.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 19.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 21.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 22.]
+
+By this time the framework will be quite dry, no doubt, so you can,
+after cleaning and polishing the boiler, attach it to the frame by a
+screw or solder at the forward end, and the steam-pipe N can be screwed
+on to the projecting piece of tube left at F, while you also screw a
+short length of pipe into the steam box of engine through a hole in the
+bed plate. Then bend it up to the steam tap, and solder them carefully
+in position; this will hold the after end of the boiler firm.
+
+Go over every soldered joint to see if any small hole is left, and
+resolder where necessary, as a hole in the boiler not larger than a
+pin's point would prevent you from getting any pressure of steam in the
+boiler, as the water would all blow out.
+
+Now lacquer or paint your boiler, and while it is drying turn your
+attention to the lamp, which we picture in Fig. 18.
+
+
+THE LAMP.
+
+The lamp is simply an oblong tin box, about 5 inches long by 1-1/4
+inches wide and three-quarters of an inch deep.
+
+To make it cut a piece of tin 4-1/2 by 5 inches and bend it to shape.
+Then solder the two edges together and cut two ends to fit; push them
+in and solder in place.
+
+Now cut three pieces of brass quarter-inch tubing into three-quarter
+inch lengths; drilling holes in top of lamp, insert them, allowing a
+quarter of an inch to project, as at A, Fig. 17. Then solder them on
+four pieces of bent wire--C, C, C, C, Fig. 18--by which to hang the
+lamp by means of two wire pins run through them and small holes drilled
+in the sides of projecting piece C, Fig. 10.
+
+The screw filler B, Fig. 18, will have to be soldered in, also, and
+when complete the tubes A may be filled with cotton wick and the lamp
+about three-parts full of a methylated alcohol, which will give a
+clear, smokeless flame.
+
+Now you can start your locomotive by filling the boiler about three
+parts full of hot water, and then hooking the lamp underneath; you will
+soon get up a good pressure of steam.
+
+See that the taps are all turned off, and if there is no leakage from
+careless workmanship, you will find on turning the steam tap on, that
+the locomotive will run beautifully and will travel at great speed
+either on a smooth oil-cloth or a board floor.
+
+On rails it would run quicker still, but for this engine, if you make
+a small tender of the shape shown in Fig. 19, and fasten it at any
+angle by the set-screw on the foot-plate of the engine shown at N, Fig.
+2, the model will run in any sized circle you may wish without rails,
+according to the angle you fix the tender to the engine.
+
+Wooden cars you can make if you wish, but each one added will reduce
+the speed of the engine, of course.
+
+Tin is the best material to use for the tender, as no great strength is
+required--indeed it should be made as light as possible. The wheels
+and axles you must finish in the same manner as those on the engine,
+and it can be made into a tank to hold an extra supply of alcohol by
+soldering a piece of tin round the inside and covering it in with
+another piece cut to shape and fitted with a screw nut to fill by as
+shown in Fig. 18.
+
+Such is the method of constructing a model locomotive which will run
+without complicated machinery.
+
+The boy who has succeeded in following these directions will no doubt
+be ambitious to try his hand on a more complete model on a larger
+scale, something like Fig. 20 for instance, which is a side view of a
+large model locomotive in a finished state.
+
+
+HOW TO BUILD A LARGE MODEL LOCOMOTIVE.
+
+In building a large model the first thing to be done is to decide
+how large you want it. Sketch your model carefully, or, if not able
+to draw plans, get some one who is to help you. Make your plan the
+exact size of the model you intend to build, then you can take all the
+measurements from it and save yourself a lot of trouble and time.
+
+Remember, however, that the larger you make the engine the more
+expensive the castings and materials will be.
+
+Should you persevere, however, and by good fortune succeed, you will
+have a model locomotive that would cost you two or three hundred
+dollars to buy ready made. If you have a lathe and can turn the wooden
+models for the castings yourself, use sheet iron for the frame-work,
+etc., where possible; the total expense will not be so very great.
+
+Begin your work in the same way you did on the other model. If you
+want a bigger engine than the one shown in Fig. 20, there would be no
+trouble in increasing the measurements, which we are about to give,
+proportionately, remembering that Fig. 20 is drawn to an eighth-inch
+scale.
+
+
+DIMENSIONS.
+
+Make your dimensions as follows: Length over all, 3 ft. 2 in. Length
+of bed-plate, 3.5 in. Width of bed-plate, 9 in. Diameter of driving
+wheels, 8-1/4 in. Diameter of leading wheels, 5-1/4 in. Gauge--that is
+width of track on which model can run--6-1/2 in. Cylinders, 1-3/4 in.
+bore by 2-1/2 in. stroke. Length of boiler, including smoke box, 28 in.
+Diameter of boiler, 5 in.
+
+Cylinders of the above dimensions will drive the engine at a high rate
+of speed, with from 30 to 50 lbs. of steam.
+
+
+DESCRIPTION OF LARGE MODEL LOCOMOTIVES.
+
+In Fig. 20, the different parts of the engine are lettered, and it
+will be well for the boy who desires to make a locomotive like it to
+compare the following description with the cut, before he does anything
+else.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 20.]
+
+A is the smoke stack and B the steam blast used to increase the
+intensity of the fire worked by rod C running through the hollow
+hand-rail D and ending in handle F. G is the steam-dome, which with the
+safety valve is the same pattern previously used. H is the extra safety
+valve, worked from the foot-plate. I is the steam whistle, K wind
+guard, L starting lever, M smoke-box with door, N O spring buffers;
+P is the line-clearer or wheel guard. Q are the leading wheels, R R
+the driving wheels, S is one of the cylinders with piston rods and
+guides bolted to frame and showing double connecting rod at T T. U U
+are the springs which support the weight of the boiler, etc., on the
+axle bearings. The spring or rear wheel does not show, being inside the
+safety guard and hand-rail V. W is the back pressure valve, through
+which the water is thrown by the force-pump into the boiler, and X is
+the blow-off tap to clear the engine from all water after having used
+it. Y shows the side of the ash-pan.
+
+
+HOW TO DO THE WORK ON THE LARGE MODEL LOCOMOTIVE.
+
+First of all comes the frame work. It wants to be of eighth inch sheet
+iron squared up perfectly true and flat and cut as is shown in Fig. 21,
+beginning 4-1/2 inches from A, and leaving 6 inches at B, and cutting
+it 6 inches wide there by 8 inches long, and continuing it 4 inches
+wide for the rest of the distance. Be careful to keep it quite central
+on the line A B, and leave two connecting strips 1 inch wide as at C C.
+
+The side frames come next. These must be much stronger and quite
+different from those used in the previous model. They may be cut from
+the same eighth inch iron to the shape shown in Fig. 22.
+
+The center of slot B is 17 inches from one end, the center of A 10
+inches from B, and the center of C 13 inches from B.
+
+In measuring, always start from a given center if you want to be
+accurate. That is, from B to A and from B to C; not from B to A and
+from C to B.
+
+The slots are each 1-1/4 inches wide by 2 inches deep, leaving 1 inch
+of iron at the top, as shown. The four large boles shown in Fig. 23 are
+only ornamental, and can be now cut out. They also serve to lighten the
+frame.
+
+The frames, after being smoothed up can be fastened to the bed plate in
+the manner described before, by angle-irons, or knees, riveted on.
+
+Two end pieces must also be prepared. Let them be 1 inch deep, with the
+ends hammered square, at right angles, and then riveted to the bed
+plate and side frames, as shown in Fig. 20. Then drill three holes in
+them, about an inch and a half from either end, and one in the center,
+by which to bolt on the buffer beams by means of a couple of screws put
+in at the back. The buffer beams should be mahogany, 1 inch wide by 2
+deep by 10 long, squared nicely and sandpapered. A hook can then be
+made--Fig. 23--and a hole being drilled in the center of the beam, you
+can pass the hook stem through and into the central hole of framework,
+and screw up tight with nut at back, which will hold all firmly in
+place. The buffers for this model must be properly made, with springs
+to take the pressure in case you should run into anything.
+
+Fig. 24 shows this buffer. You will have to get it cast. Turn out in
+your lathe a wooden mold and get four castings in brass made from it. A
+Fig. 24 is cast with a square base plate 2 inches square, as in front
+view B, and is secured to the buffer beam by four flat-headed screws.
+The piece C must be turned true and just the size to slide in and out
+of A easily. Each part must be finished up in the lathe. A should be an
+inch and a half long. Drill a hole in the buffer beam to allow the head
+of the pin to work freely, and another hole in base plate of buffer the
+size of the pin, whose head prevents the spring from forcing C entirely
+away from A.
+
+The spring should be made of thick steel wire; the buffers can then be
+screwed in as just mentioned. The wheel-guard or line-clearer P (Fig.
+20) can next be cut out to shape and bolted on to frame, and should
+just clear the line by a quarter of an inch.
+
+We will now proceed to the axle bearings and springs, U, Fig. 20.
+
+Make a wooden model like Fig. 25, and get 6 castings in brass made from
+it. They must then be filed up square and smooth and fitted into the
+slots cut at A, B, C, Fig 22, and either screwed or riveted on by the
+side holes. Before finally fixing them prepare 6 brass bearings, B, Fig
+25, which must fit exactly and slide easily in the inner surface of A,
+then drilling a hole through each five-eighths of an inch in diameter.
+These take the axles, which in this model are all straight, and
+three-quarters of an inch in diameter, shouldered off to five-eighths
+for the bearings.
+
+Next for the springs. Take 4 pieces of either sheet iron or brass for
+the supports, 1-1/2 inches long by 1/4 inch wide. Drill a hole in
+either end as shown at C, Fig. 26. A should be three-eighths of an inch
+wide, drilled through, a pin put in and all riveted together loosely.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 23.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 24.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 25.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 26.]
+
+Now take a clock spring and cut it into shape, as at D, Fig. 26. The
+top piece requires to be made hot with your blow-pipe, then the ends
+turned over to hold the pin B. Each piece of spring must be a little
+shorter than the one above it, and the ends neatly tapered, all to be
+inclosed in the brass band F, which has a small hole drilled at F to
+hold the end of the pin by which the pressure is directed on to the
+axle boxes, as shown in Fig. 20. A hole is also to be drilled in the
+bed plate over the center of each axle box to allow the pin to pass
+through, and also a smaller one an inch and a half on each side for the
+support A, Fig. 26, to screw into. Now all can be fitted into position.
+
+Next come the cylinders. These are to be an inch thick and
+three-quarters bore by two and a half inch stroke. They should be of
+the fixed slide-valve pattern, with double eccentrics fitted on the
+middle axle shaft, and reversing lever brought to quadrant on foot
+plate. They had better be bought ready made.
+
+Fig. 27 shows their working. A A are the eccentrics, B the slide-valve
+rod with guide G attached. C C is the bed plate and D the balance
+weight, F the rod leading to quadrant and lever on foot plate. The
+cranks are put on outside the wheels and fastened by keys as in Fig.
+20. The connecting rod T should be cut to the form shown in Fig. 28,
+and the ends squared out and a brass band fitted in with a hole drilled
+from top A to oil by and a set screw B to adjust the bearings perfectly.
+
+If you wish to fit a force pump it should be placed centrally between
+the cylinders and be worked by an eccentric on the main shaft, but a
+pump on a model locomotive is next to useless unless it is also made to
+work by hand.
+
+In Fig. 29, we have one which can be worked either way. A is the pump;
+B the eccentric on main-shaft to work it by steam power. To work by
+hand you have only to push up hook connection C, which disconnects it
+from the eccentric; and then by working the handle D, which is screwed
+into the bottom of the plunger C, the water is forced into the boiler.
+An extra stuffing-box at F will be required. G is the exhaust water
+pipe bent up to the back-pressure valve on boiler, and H the supply
+pipe carried on to rear of engine.
+
+Two small blow-off cocks will be necessary on each cylinder to get rid
+of the condensed steam when starting. They can be connected with a
+tye-rod, and both worked from the foot-plate with a single handle. Now
+paint to suit your taste and put away to dry.
+
+Next comes the boiler, which will need extreme care. For this you will
+require sheet copper an eighth of an inch thick.
+
+First cut a piece 19 inches long by 16 wide and bend it round, forming
+a cylinder 5 inches in diameter. The cap must be closely riveted and
+the two ends hammered out into a flange outward, leaving the body of
+the boiler 17 inches long, as in Fig. 30. B is the shape of the piece
+to be next riveted on at after end. Now take another sheet 9 inches
+wide and hammer a half inch flange round it, so as to fit over the
+dotted line at A. Rivet them firmly together and also another piece in
+after end. It will then have the appearance of Fig. 31, and should be
+4-1/2 inches deep from A to B, and forming a copper box 6 inches wide
+from B to C and 8 inches from C to D. Then rivet together another box
+to form the inner casing 4-1/2 inches wide by 6-1/2 inches long and 9
+inches deep, the bottom to be hammered outward to the dimensions of B
+C C D, as shown in section Fig. 32 at A A. A hole is next to be cut
+out in the center of rear plate and also the rear part of inner casing
+which comes opposite to it, and 1-3/4 inches by 2-1/2 forming the
+furnace door.
+
+A casting of that shape and 3/4 of an inch thick, which is the distance
+between the inner and outer casing B C, must be procured and drilled
+with holes every 3/8 of an inch and firmly riveted in position, as
+shown in Fig. 32 at D. Two pins should project on either side of the
+inner surface to support the fire-bars and ash pan, and the bars should
+be made of cast iron and small enough to get out easily by tilting up
+one side; they should run lengthwise of the engine.
+
+For the boiler tubes some hard drawn brass tubing three-quarters of
+an inch in diameter will be required. Cut the pieces slightly over
+17 inches long, then drill 10 holes in the inner plate as at E, Fig.
+32, and in the position and arrangement shown in Fig. 33. These tubes
+should have a wire ring brazed on about a quarter of an inch from
+either end, and then being placed in their respective holes in the tube
+plate, the projecting portion is to be headed back with a flange, or
+you can fit them in as already shown in Fig. 16 by each being double
+screwed and nutted. These tubes allow the smoke and flame to pass
+through from the furnace to the smoke box, M, Fig. 20, and so away up
+the smoke stack, and by the large surface they expose to the fire, help
+to raise steam very quickly. In some engines as many as 300 tubes are
+fitted.
+
+The steam supply pipe and regulating lever handle should now be made
+and placed in position, and Fig. 34 shows the shape to make it. A B are
+the front and rear plates of the boiler, C is the supply pipe bent with
+a screw end downward, after passing plate A, and then upward into the
+steam dome, where it should be securely fastened into a cross-piece. D
+is the tap or valve which can be turned on or off from the foot-plate
+by means of the long rod, F, ending in the lever handle, G.
+
+The rod must be fitted with a stuffing-box, the same as those used on
+the cylinders, and packed with cotton wick to prevent loss of steam by
+leakage. When all this is complete, the forward end of the boiler can
+be furnished with a tube-plate riveted on and the tubes flanged over.
+
+Now the boiler must go to a practical brazier, and be properly brazed.
+Cut the hole for the steam dome, and let him braze it on at the same
+time. If the job is practically done, your boiler can be heated red-hot
+without fear.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 27.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 28.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 29.]
+
+Meanwhile buy your pressure gauge--it wants to be one and a half inches
+in diameter--and let the brazier test your boiler to 100 pounds steam
+to the square inch capacity.
+
+Should it burst you will have to make another. If not you need
+thereafter have no fears.
+
+Now make the smoke box, which should be three inches deep and of the
+shape and dimensions shown in Fig. 35. This and the smoke-stack can be
+made of iron, hammered up to shape and finished with a brass ring. The
+smoke-box can be screwed on the forward flange or boiler.
+
+The door is drawn open to show the amount of bulge it should be
+hammered to. In the center a hole should be drilled through which to
+pass the screw used to close it, which is attached to the loose bar, A.
+The handle, B, is then screwed up tight.
+
+The door is circular and must be large enough to overlap the opening
+about half an inch and have a couple of bright iron or brass eyes, C,
+riveted on to form the hinge.
+
+Next comes the back-pressure valve, Fig 36. A is a front view with
+plate by which it is bolted to the boiler, as at W, Fig. 20.
+
+It is very simple to make, and consists of the casting A with top and
+bottom covers and the ball-valve B, which ought to be ground with a
+little emery and oil to fit perfectly. It acts in this manner.
+
+The water being forced up C from the pump, raises B and passes into the
+boiler. On the up stroke of pump, the pressure is removed from under
+B and the pressure of steam in the boiler causes it to fall back and
+close the opening entirely, preventing any water from passing away from
+the boiler. A small flange can be put on each outer side of the boiler
+near the furnace to support it on bed-plate level with smoke box.
+
+The boiler should now be covered with flannel, cut to shape and wrapped
+round the body part and a casing of sheet tin put over it and secured
+by brass bands and small nuts underneath--as shown in Fig. 20.
+
+The steam supply pipe can now be connected with the cylinders and
+it should be made forked as in Fig. 37. A leads from steam pipe and
+branches off to each cylinder, where it must be screwed up with white
+lead.
+
+The exhaust pipes B B should be of larger tubing and bent round up the
+sides of the smoke box so as to be out of the way when you have to
+clean the tubes. A small brass pipe, C, must also be passed through the
+chimney, bent upwards and fitted with a tap which should take the steam
+from the top of the boiler and be used as shown at D F Fig. 20. This
+helps to raise steam very quickly.
+
+Fig. 38 is a rear view of the foot plate and shows the necessary
+fittings which you must either make or buy to complete the model.
+
+The cocks you might make but the water gauge you must buy. A is the
+furnace door, B two gauge taps, C starting-lever handle, D spring
+balance safety valve, F wind-guard with two look-out holes, G steam
+whistle handle, H pressure gauge, N the quadrant and lever for
+reversing the engine, O the rear buffer beam with buffers, P the wheels
+showing axle, R R the springs for same and V the safety-guard rail on
+either side.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 30.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 31.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 32.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 33.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 34.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 35.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 37.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 36.]
+
+When these fittings are all complete holes must be drilled in rear
+plate for each piece; they must be firmly screwed in place with white
+lead. The glass tube of the water gauge, the stuffing-box, and the
+gland of the starting lever should be closely packed with tallow and
+cotton wick.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 38.]
+
+Next paint the entire model over again and let it dry. We give no
+directions as to colors; use your own taste. After the paint is
+thoroughly dry varnish with the best clear, hard varnish and let it dry
+again.
+
+While it is drying you can be making the rails.
+
+Get some square bar iron, cut it into six-foot lengths, if you wish the
+rails to be portable, and drill a hole in each end half an inch deep.
+
+The rails can be joined together at each end by means of a piece of
+wire and kept at a proper distance apart by being fastened to pieces
+of wood placed like sleepers, fastened by screws passing through holes
+drilled in the rails every six inches. These sections can be laid
+end to end, and your line be made as long as you wish. If you want a
+circular line, each section must be bent to a portion of a circle; one
+about 30 feet in diameter is suitable for this model.
+
+When finished place your locomotive on the track and get up steam. Fill
+the boiler with water by means of a funnel until you see it rise up
+three parts of the way in the glass water-gauge. Then see that all taps
+are turned off and start the fire. Charcoal is the best fuel, as it
+gives a clear, hot fire without much smoke once you start it right.
+
+Try the safety-valve occasionally to see how your steam is getting on,
+and when it begins to form turn on the blast-tap, which will soon draw
+up the fire, and you will presently see the pressure rise and show
+itself in the pressure-gauge.
+
+When the gauge shows 30 lbs. of steam you might start the model by
+turning on the cocks on cylinders until no more condensed steam issues
+from them.
+
+Then shut them off and turn on steam full power and watch the engine
+travel, gradually increasing its speed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+
+Let us now bear the conclusion of the whole matter, which takes us
+straight back to where we started, and we again repeat if you want to
+become an engineer make up your mind that you will be a good one or
+none at all.
+
+We have examined the locomotive inside and out, underneath and on top,
+even peering down the smoke-stack, crawling into the fire-box, and
+learning the true science of shoveling coal.
+
+What then remains to be told?
+
+Nothing that can be remembered long enough to be of any practical use.
+
+There are matters--dozens of them--connected with locomotive
+engineering which we have not even alluded to, but they are for the
+most part such as must be learned by actual every day experience to be
+of any use.
+
+We might, perhaps, under three heads speak a few closing words. First
+let us take up
+
+
+SIGNALS,
+
+and post ourselves a bit on that most important subject.
+
+The greater part of an engineer's time while on his engine must be
+spent in the lookout for signals.
+
+Upon this depends not only the safety of every soul on the train but
+his own as well.
+
+_Never jump at conclusions in the matter of signals._
+
+Never assume that because a "distant" signal and all the other signals
+are off the line is clear.
+
+Every engineer should, as far as possible, not only see that each
+signal is off, but he should also cast his eye over the road in front
+of him to see whether it _should_ be off. At night caution in the
+matter of signals is even more necessary than in daylight. Then the
+only safety lies in keeping a constant lookout.
+
+You must know your road. It is not enough to know where the up grades
+lie and where the downs. You must know just how steep the grades are
+and their length.
+
+Often signals are badly placed and cannot be seen until the engine is
+close upon them.
+
+With this you have nothing to do. Engineers do not place signals.
+Doubtless if they did they would alter the position of many of them.
+All you have to do is to heed the signals, no matter how well or how
+badly they are placed.
+
+To enter into a detailed description of signals until some universal
+system of signaling is adopted, would be but a waste of time.
+
+You will have to learn all these things during your apprenticeship;
+they are matters upon which books can give you little help.
+
+Presence of mind you must always have if you expect to become a good
+engineer, and courage, too--plenty of it. This brings us to our second
+head, which we will write
+
+
+"BROKE DOWN."
+
+What to do when the engine has broken down?
+
+There comes the tug of war, the time when it will be definitely decided
+whether the engineer is good, bad or indifferent.
+
+Hundreds of lives may depend upon prompt action, thousands of dollars'
+worth of property are in the engineer's hands, either to waste or save
+when the moment of the break down comes.
+
+In Mr. S. A. Alexander's excellent treatise entitled "Broke Down"
+is placed in red letters over every page, "Protect Yourself from
+Approaching Trains."
+
+When a break-down occurs, this is the first thought which should enter
+the engineer's mind, and the first act should be to carry it out.
+
+There are many causes of a break-down, too many to enumerate. In
+the roundhouse is the place to study break-downs, for here, daily,
+every variety is open to inspection--broken crank-shafts, broken
+eccentric-rods, eccentric-straps and sheaves, broken motion and broken
+springs.
+
+Of course an engine may be broken, and yet able to run its train
+through. This is an important consideration. Some engineers hardly know
+when they are beaten.
+
+It is a matter of record that a certain engineer, known as "Hell-fire
+Jack," ran his train over a bridge after one side had been washed
+away by a raging flood. Thousands of such daring deeds have been
+accomplished by engineers, but "Cautious Jacks" will be better
+appreciated by the company than "Hell-fire Jacks" every time.
+
+Real heroism lies in good judgment and a cool head. Suppose that
+the right hand back gear eccentric-rod breaks. "Can I get along in
+forward gear, after having disconnected the rod and the strap?" is
+the question. The answer is yes, and it should be prompt, as all such
+answers should be when the engine breaks down.
+
+It is such readiness as this that makes break-downs but a matter of a
+few moments.
+
+It is also highly necessary that the engineer should ask himself "What
+tools have I upon the engine? What can I do with them? Can I find them
+in the dark? If I run off the track in what condition is my screw jack?
+Will it work properly? Have I a ratchet or bar to work it with?"
+
+These are things which should be continually kept in mind.
+
+
+AIR BRAKES.
+
+The air-brake has changed engine driving materially in the last few
+years, and a word or two concerning it should be said.
+
+The air-brake consists briefly of an air cylinder placed beneath each
+car, which can be operated by the engineer from the foot plate, the
+pressure of the air controlling the action of the brakes.
+
+There are two valves to an air-brake, one for ordinary stops and the
+other for sudden stops in case of emergency.
+
+In the first only partial pressure of the confined air is used, in the
+latter the full pressure is employed and the brakes brought against the
+wheels with all force at once.
+
+One of the most important duties of an engineer is to be well assured
+that the air-brakes are in proper working order.
+
+After the call for hand brakes has been given, the air brakes must not
+be applied until the hand brakes are released. Air and hand brakes
+should never be used at the same time on a car.
+
+When cars having different air pressures are coupled together the
+brakes will work first on that having the highest pressure.
+
+Special instruction is needed to fully comprehend the working of air
+brakes.
+
+Here is a speed table which may be useful. We have taken the liberty
+of extracting it from Alexander's "Ready-reference for Locomotive
+Engineers," an excellent hand-book with which all candidates for the
+foot-plate should provide themselves. Published by the author, S. A.
+Alexander, York, Pa.
+
+
+TIME AND SPEED TABLES.
+
+  Key: M = Minutes.
+       S = Seconds.
+       T = 10th of a Second.
+
+                          M S  T
+  10 miles per hour is    6.00   to 1 mile
+  11 "      "   "   "     5.27   "  1  "
+  12 "      "   "   "     5.90   "  1  "
+  13 "      "   "   "     4.37   "  1  "
+  14 "      "   "   "     4.17   "  1  "
+  15 "      "   "   "     4.00   "  1  "
+  16 "      "   "   "     3.45   "  1  "
+  17 "      "   "   "     3.32   "  1  "
+  18 "      "   "   "     3.20   "  1  "
+  19 "      "   "   "     3.09.5 "  1  "
+  20 "      "   "   "     3.00   "  1  "
+  21 "      "   "   "     2.51.5 "  1  "
+  22 "      "   "   "     2.43.5 "  1  "
+  23 "      "   "   "     2.36.5 "  1  "
+  24 "      "   "   "     2.30   "  1  "
+  25 "      "   "   "     2.24   "  1  "
+  26 "      "   "   "     2.18.6 "  1  "
+  27 "      "   "   "     2.13.3 "  1  "
+  28 "      "   "   "     2.08.5 "  1  "
+  29 "      "   "   "     2.04   "  1  "
+  30 "      "   "   "     2.00   "  1  "
+  31 "      "   "   "     1.56   "  1  "
+  32 "      "   "   "     1.52.5 "  1  "
+  33 "      "   "   "     1.49   "  1  "
+  34 "      "   "   "     1.45.6 "  1  "
+  35 "      "   "   "     1.42.6 "  1  "
+  36 "      "   "   "     1.40   "  1  "
+  37 "      "   "   "     1.37.3 "  1  "
+  38 "      "   "   "     1.34.7 "  1  "
+  39 "      "   "   "     1.32.3 "  1  "
+  40 "      "   "   "     1.30.0 "  1  "
+  41 "      "   "   "     1.27.7 "  1  "
+  42 "      "   "   "     1.25.7 "  1  "
+  43 "      "   "   "     1.23.5 "  1  "
+  44 "      "   "   "     1.21.7 "  1  "
+  45 "      "   "   "     1.20.0 "  1  "
+  46 "      "   "   "     1.18.2 "  1  "
+  47 "      "   "   "     1.16.6 "  1  "
+  48 "      "   "   "     1.15.0 "  1  "
+  49 "      "   "   "     1.13.5 "  1  "
+  50 "      "   "   "     1.12.0 "  1  "
+  51 "      "   "   "     1.10.6 "  1  "
+  52 "      "   "   "     1.09.4 "  1  "
+  53 "      "   "   "     1.07.9 "  1  "
+  54 "      "   "   "     1.06.6 "  1  "
+  55 "      "   "   "     1.05.4 "  1  "
+  56 "      "   "   "     1.04.3 "  1  "
+  57 "      "   "   "     1.03.2 "  1  "
+  58 "      "   "   "     1.02.2 "  1  "
+  60 "      "   "   "     1.00.0 "  1  "
+  65 "      "   "   "     0.55.3 "  1  "
+  70 "      "   "   "     0.51.4 "  1  "
+  75 "      "   "   "     0.48.0 "  1  "
+  80 "      "   "   "     0.45.0 "  1  "
+  85 "      "   "   "     0.42.3 "  1  "
+  90 "      "   "   "     0.40.0 "  1  "
+  95 "      "   "   "     0.37.9 "  1  "
+  100"      "   "   "     0.36.0 "  1  "
+
+The boy who aims to become an engineer should not waste his school
+hours in idle dreaming or in too much sport.
+
+Improve every moment you can spare from other duties or needed exercise
+in studying arithmetic, geometry, algebra and mechanical engineering. A
+little knowledge as a draughtsman will also be a great help.
+
+Above all, get some larger manual on locomotive engineering and read
+and re-read it until you know its contents by heart.
+
+Remember that there is no limit to knowledge in any direction.
+
+The time can never come to any engineer when he can truthfully say to
+himself, "I know it all," and to his life-long study write
+
+[Illustration: THE END.]
+
+
+
+
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+  6 HOW TO BECOME AN ATHLETE.
+  7 HOW TO KEEP BIRDS.
+  8 HOW TO BECOME A SCIENTIST.
+  9 HOW TO BECOME A VENTRILOQUIST.
+  10 HOW TO BOX.
+  11 HOW TO WRITE LOVE LETTERS.
+  12 HOW TO WRITE LETTERS TO LADIES.
+  13 HOW TO DO IT; OR, BOOK OF ETIQUETTE.
+  14 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
+  15 HOW TO BECOME RICH.
+  16 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.
+  17 HOW TO DRESS.
+  18 HOW TO BECOME BEAUTIFUL.
+  19 FRANK TOUSEY'S U. S. DISTANCE TABLES, POCKET COMPANION AND GUIDE.
+  20 HOW TO ENTERTAIN AN EVENING PARTY.
+  21 HOW TO HUNT AND FISH.
+  22 HOW TO DO SECOND SIGHT.
+  23 HOW TO EXPLAIN DREAMS.
+  24 HOW TO WRITE LETTERS TO GENTLEMEN.
+  25 HOW TO BECOME A GYMNAST.
+  26 HOW TO ROW, SAIL AND BUILD A BOAT.
+  27 HOW TO RECITE AND BOOK OF RECITATIONS.
+  28 HOW TO TELL FORTUNES.
+  29 HOW TO BECOME AN INVENTOR.
+  30 HOW TO COOK.
+  31 HOW TO BECOME A SPEAKER.
+  32 HOW TO RIDE A BICYCLE.
+  33 HOW TO BEHAVE.
+  34 HOW TO FENCE.
+  35 HOW TO PLAY GAMES.
+  36 HOW TO SOLVE CONUNDRUMS.
+  37 HOW TO KEEP HOUSE.
+  38 HOW TO BECOME YOUR OWN DOCTOR.
+  39 HOW TO RAISE DOGS, POULTRY, PIGEONS AND RABBITS.
+  40 HOW TO MAKE AND SET TRAPS.
+  41 THE BOYS OF NEW YORK END MEN'S JOKE BOOK.
+  42 THE BOYS OF NEW YORK STUMP SPEAKER.
+  43 HOW TO BECOME A MAGICIAN.
+  44 HOW TO WRITE IN AN ALBUM.
+  45 THE BOYS OF NEW YORK MINSTREL GUIDE AND JOKE BOOK.
+  46 HOW TO MAKE AND USE ELECTRICITY.
+  47 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE.
+  48 HOW TO BUILD AND SAIL CANOES.
+  49 HOW TO DEBATE.
+  50 HOW TO STUFF BIRDS AND ANIMALS.
+  51 HOW TO DO TRICKS WITH CARDS.
+  52 HOW TO PLAY CARDS.
+  53 HOW TO WRITE LETTERS.
+  54 HOW TO KEEP AND MANAGE PETS.
+  55 HOW TO COLLECT STAMPS AND COINS.
+  56 HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.
+  57 HOW TO MAKE MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS.
+  58 HOW TO BECOME A DETECTIVE.
+  59 HOW TO MAKE A MAGIC LANTERN.
+  60 HOW TO BECOME A PHOTOGRAPHER.
+  61 HOW TO BECOME A BOWLER.
+  62 HOW TO BECOME A WEST POINT MILITARY CADET.
+  63 HOW TO BECOME A NAVAL CADET.
+  64 HOW TO MAKE ELECTRICAL MACHINES.
+  65 MULDOON'S JOKES.
+  66 HOW TO DO PUZZLES.
+  67 HOW TO DO ELECTRICAL TRICKS.
+  68 HOW TO DO CHEMICAL TRICKS.
+  69 HOW TO DO SLEIGHT OF HAND.
+  70 HOW TO MAKE MAGIC TOYS.
+  71 HOW TO DO MECHANICAL TRICKS.
+  72 HOW TO DO SIXTY TRICKS WITH CARDS.
+  73 HOW TO DO TRICKS WITH NUMBERS.
+  74 HOW TO WRITE LETTERS CORRECTLY.
+  75 HOW TO BECOME A CONJURER.
+  76 HOW TO TELL FORTUNES BY THE HAND.
+  77 HOW TO DO FORTY TRICKS WITH CARDS.
+  78 HOW TO DO THE BLACK ART.
+  79 HOW TO BECOME AN ACTOR.
+
+All the above books are for sale by newsdealers throughout the United
+States and Canada, or they will be sent, post-paid, to your address, on
+receipt of 10c. each.
+
+_Send Your Name and Address for Our Latest Illustrated Catalogue._
+
+
+FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,
+
+  29 WEST 26th STREET,     NEW YORK.
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+The Table of Contents was added by the transcriber.
+
+Some inconsistent punctuation has been normalized throughout the book.
+
+Some inconsistent hyphenation (e.g. smokestack vs. smoke-stack) has
+been retained.
+
+Some illustrations in this book appear to have been lifted from
+Locomotive Engine Driving: A Practical Manual for Engineers in Charge
+of Locomotive Engines by Michael Reynolds (London: Crosby Lockwood,
+1888).
+
+Fractions have been normalized to the form X-Y/Z.
+
+Page 5, changed "locomotiive" to "locomotive."
+
+Page 7, changed "Engilsh" to "English."
+
+Page 8, changed "clumsey" to "clumsy" and "prise" to "prize."
+
+Page 16, changed "guage" to "gauge."
+
+Page 17, changed "will came" to "will come."
+
+Page 19, changed "where on can" to "where one can."
+
+Page 21, changed "gain" to "gains."
+
+Page 22, changed "reponsibility" to "responsibility."
+
+Page 24, changed "read then" to "read them."
+
+Page 27, changed "thinest" to "thinnest."
+
+Page 29, changed "guage" to "gauge" (twice) and "at at" to "at."
+
+Page 34, changed "undestand" to "understand."
+
+Page 51, changed "shown it Fig. 35" to "shown in Fig. 35" and "llittle"
+to "little."
+
+Page 56, changed "definately" to "definitely."
+
+Page 57, changed "air-brakes consists" to "air-brake consists."
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44604 ***
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+<body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44604 ***</div>
+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, How to Become an Engineer, by Frank W. Doughty</h1>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10">
+  <tr>
+    <td valign="top">
+      Note:
+    </td>
+    <td>
+      Images of the original pages are available through the
+      Digital Library of the Falvey Memorial Library,
+      Villanova University. See
+      <a href="http://digital.library.villanova.edu/Item/vudl:267659">
+      http://digital.library.villanova.edu/Item/vudl:267659</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 371px;">
+<a href="images/i001large.jpg"><img src="images/i001.jpg" width="371" height="600" alt="" id="coverpage" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+<h2>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+<p class="center">
+
+<a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I. HISTORICAL.</a><br />
+<a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II. DESCRIPTION OF THE LOCOMOTIVE.</a><br />
+<a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III. HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.</a><br />
+<a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV. DUTIES OF AN ENGINEER.</a><br />
+<a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V. HOW TO RUN A TRAIN.</a><br />
+<a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI. HOW TO BUILD A MODEL LOCOMOTIVE.</a><br />
+<a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII. CONCLUSION.</a><br />
+</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+<h1>
+<span class="small">HOW TO BECOME</span><br /><br />
+AN ENGINEER.<br />
+</h1>
+
+<hr class="r5" />
+
+<p class="center">
+Containing Full Instructions How to Proceed in<br />
+Order to Become a Locomotive Engineer;<br />
+Also Directions for Building a Model<br />
+Locomotive; together with a Full<br />
+Description of Everything an<br />
+Engineer Should Know.</p>
+
+<hr class="r5" />
+
+<p class="center large">PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED.</p>
+
+<hr class="r5" />
+
+<p class="center large">
+BY AN OLD ENGINEER ON THE NEW YORK CENTRAL
+RAILROAD.</p>
+
+<hr class="r5" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<span class="smcap">New York</span>:<br />
+<span class="large">FRANK TOUSEY</span>, Publisher<br />
+<span class="smcap">29 West 26th Street</span>.<br />
+</p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+<p class="center">
+Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1898, by<br />
+FRANK TOUSEY,<br />
+in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D.C.<br />
+</p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="How_to_Become_an_Engineer" id="How_to_Become_an_Engineer">How to Become an Engineer.</a></h2>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center">HISTORICAL.</p>
+
+
+<p>To begin a subject properly you must begin at the beginning.</p>
+
+<p>Boys who don't like history need not read this chapter, for
+in it we tell how the steam engine began, and if it never had
+begun, you know, there would never have been any engineers,
+nor any necessity for writing this book.</p>
+
+<p>For two or three generations we have had the story of
+James Watt told us; how when a boy and watching his
+mother's tea-kettle one day he saw the steam lift the lid, and
+that suggested the idea that if a little steam could lift the
+lid of a kettle, a great deal would lift still heavier weights
+and revolutionize the world.</p>
+
+<p>Now they tell us that Watt was not the first one to have
+this idea by several, that it was first suggested by the Marquis
+of Worcester, in his book called the "Century of Inventions,"
+as "a way to drive up water by fire," A. D. 1663.</p>
+
+<p>This was about a hundred years before Watt came on deck,
+but the marquis never put his idea into practice, and Watt
+did, so to the latter the credit belongs.</p>
+
+<p>Here are a few dates:</p>
+
+<p>Watt's invention of the separate condenser, 1765; Watt's
+first patent, 1769; Watt's first working engine introduced
+into a manufactory, 1775; first steam engine erected in Ireland,
+1791; first steamboat run on the Hudson, 1797; first
+steamboat abroad, 1801.</p>
+
+<p>First regular steamboat ever run was from Albany to New
+York. The name of the boat was the North River, her
+builder was Robert Fulton, and she made the passage in 33
+hours.</p>
+
+<p>The first railroad was built in England, in 1811.</p>
+
+<p>The first ocean steamer was the Savannah, an American
+craft of 350 tons, which sailed from New York for Liverpool,
+July 15, 1819, making the voyage in 26 days.</p>
+
+<p>Such were the early beginnings of steam.</p>
+
+<p>There are three principal kinds of engineers, locomotive,
+steamboat and stationary.</p>
+
+<p>In this little book we propose to deal mainly with the
+duties of a locomotive engineer.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>If one is a good locomotive engineer he can easily learn to
+manage the engine of a steamboat; and if he is skilled in
+either of these particulars he will have no difficulty with the
+biggest stationary engine ever built.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i002large.jpg"><img src="images/i002.jpg" width="400" height="274" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The First Locomotive.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The work of the different engineers differs only in detail,
+not in kind.</p>
+
+<p>Let us now glance at the history of the steam horse, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span>
+has done more than any other one thing to revolutionize the
+world.</p>
+
+<p>Be very sure that the locomotive, with its pistons, its spinning
+drive wheels, its polished steel and shining brass, did
+not come into existence all at once.</p>
+
+<p>By no means. Like everything else in the way of mechanical
+invention that attains greatness, the locomotive had an
+insignificant beginning to reach which we shall be obliged to
+get back somewhere about the middle of the last century,
+for then it was that the desire for faster traveling than
+horses can furnish seems to have had its birth.</p>
+
+<p>The first attempt at a railway seems to have been at Colebrook
+Dale, England, a spot celebrated for having the first
+iron bridge in the world&mdash;where a small iron road was constructed
+in connection with some mines; a horse furnished
+the motive power here.</p>
+
+<p>The first railroad then was without a locomotive, and,
+strangely enough the first locomotive was without a railroad
+on which to run.</p>
+
+<p>The first locomotive made its appearance in France. It
+was simply a huge tea kettle on wheels, and was built by
+Joseph Cugnot at Paris in the year 1769.</p>
+
+<p>It is the custom of English writers to ignore Cugnot's invention,
+and claim for themselves the origin of the locomotive;
+but that is only a pleasant way the English usually
+have.</p>
+
+<p>Cugnot's locomotive actually existed though, and was undoubtedly
+the first. It was operated by means of two bronze
+cylinders, into which the steam passed through a tube from
+the boiler&mdash;escaping through another tube.</p>
+
+<p>The boiler was fastened on the front of the car, which
+moved on three wheels&mdash;the steam acted only on the foremost
+wheel.</p>
+
+<p>The speed of Cugnot's locomotive was about three miles
+an hour. On the first trial it ran into a building and was
+broken to pieces.</p>
+
+<p>In 1784 the famous Watt patented a steam locomotive engine
+in England, which, however, never was put to use.</p>
+
+<p>In 1802, Trevethick and Vivian patented a locomotive,
+which, in 1804, traveled at the rate of five miles an hour,
+drawing behind it a load of ten tons of coal.</p>
+
+<p>Several other "traveling engines," as they were then
+styled, were invented by other mechanical engineers with
+only moderate success, it being reserved for Stephenson, in
+1811, to build the first locomotive that should prove of practical
+use.</p>
+
+<p>About this time a man named Thomas Gray, of Nottingham,
+England, brought upon himself the contempt and ridicule<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span>
+of the whole English nation by pushing forward the
+idea of the locomotive in connection with coal mines.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i003large.jpg"><img src="images/i003.jpg" width="400" height="267" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Old No. 1.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>"It is all very well to spend money on these railway
+schemes," said a member of parliament about that time referring
+to Gray's projects, "it will do some good to the poor,
+but I will eat all the coals your railways will ever carry."</p>
+
+<p>127,000,000 tons were carried recently in one year, on
+English railroads alone. What a tough time this parliamentary
+slow coach would have had to swallow all that!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The first practical locomotive in the world&mdash;Stephenson's
+invention, was Old No. 1, which pulled the first regular
+train on the Stockton and Darlington R. R. on Tuesday,
+September 27, 1825.</p>
+
+<p>Old No. 1 cost $2,500 to build. It was a very clumsy affair;
+nothing better, in fact, than a big boiler on four
+wheels, which were moved by great levers worked by pistons
+from the top of the machine.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i004large.jpg"><img src="images/i004.jpg" width="400" height="278" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Rocket.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Old No. 1 has been preserved, and was, in the year 1859,
+placed upon a pedestal in that English town of Darlington
+as a public memorial of the beginning of the railway.</p>
+
+<p>No sooner had the Stockton and Darlington R. R. proved
+itself a success than all England was in arms against it.
+Here are some of the absurd objections urged against railroads,
+taken from the newspapers of the day.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Steam horses were "contrary to nature;" they were
+"damaging to good morals and religion;" the smoke of the
+locomotive would "obscure the sun, and thereby ruin the
+crops." Farmyards and farmhouses would be burned by
+their sparks; the clanking, puffing locomotive would have
+such an effect on the mind as to drive people crazy (this was
+backed up by certificates from a dozen doctors); locomotives
+would cause springs to dry up and fields to become sterile;
+they would create great chasms by constantly running over
+the same ground.</p>
+
+<p>What twaddle!</p>
+
+<p>Yet all their objections were made in good faith, and we
+have by no means selected the most absurd.</p>
+
+<p>Old No. 1. proving too clumsy, a lighter locomotive was
+soon after built by Stephenson, called the "Rocket," which
+we illustrate. It won a prize of $1,500 in 1829, and is still
+preserved in the great locomotive works at Newcastle-on-Tyne,
+England.</p>
+
+<p>The first railroad in America was built from the granite
+quarries of Quincy, Mass., to the Neponset river, a few
+miles distant.</p>
+
+<p>Peter Cooper built one of the first American locomotives.
+It ran on the Baltimore and Ohio R. R., and was called the
+Tom Thumb.</p>
+
+<p>The boiler of the Tom Thumb was built of gun barrels and
+shaped like a huge bottle standing upright upon a simple
+platform car.</p>
+
+<p>Such was the beginning of the locomotive.</p>
+
+<p>In Great Britain alone over 600,000,000 people are annually
+drawn by locomotives.</p>
+
+<p>Add to these figures, which represent only a small island,
+the persons drawn by locomotives in America, Europe, and
+other parts of the world, and the number becomes stupendous
+almost beyond belief.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center">DESCRIPTION OF THE LOCOMOTIVE.</p>
+
+
+<p>In order to become an engineer, the first thing necessary
+is to gain a thorough understanding of the peculiarly complicated
+machine which it is the duty of engineers to control.</p>
+
+<p>This is of the highest importance, and a careful study of
+this chapter and the diagrams accompanying it will be of
+great assistance to anybody who contemplates becoming an
+engineer.</p>
+
+<p>There are locomotives and locomotives, all built on the
+same general plan, but varying in details according to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>
+ideas of their builders, and the class of work which they are
+expected to perform.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i005large.jpg"><img src="images/i005.jpg" width="400" height="140" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">An American Locomotive with Two Driving Wheels.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Thus for elevated roads and short surface lines, devoted
+principally to passenger travel, locomotives of light capacity<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>
+are employed; costing less at the start, and being less expensive
+to run.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i006large.jpg"><img src="images/i006.jpg" width="400" height="188" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">American Locomotive With Four Driving Wheels.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The "dummy" is even a grade below these, being practically
+a stationary engine set on a car with driving wheels
+attached.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i007large.jpg"><img src="images/i007.jpg" width="400" height="217" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Outside View of Locomotive.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i008large.jpg"><img src="images/i008.jpg" width="400" height="204" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Inside View of Locomotive.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In America our locomotives are built with long boilers
+and have a general trim appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Some have two driving wheels, others, still longer, have
+four. We illustrate both of them.</p>
+
+<p>English locomotives present a clumsy appearance alongside
+the American.</p>
+
+<p>For us to attempt to decide which is the best, would be
+the height of presumption.</p>
+
+<p>Certain it is, however, that English locomotives do run
+at a greater average speed than those in the United States.</p>
+
+<p>We will now proceed to describe by tabular arrangement,
+an English locomotive.</p>
+
+<p>This description will practically describe the American locomotive
+as well.</p>
+
+<p>We cannot enter into a detailed description of both for
+want of space, and select therefore the machine which has
+attained to the highest speed.</p>
+
+<p>We will first look at the outside of the locomotive.</p>
+
+<p>1, 2, 3, Barrel of Boiler. 6, Smoke-box. 22, Smoke Stack.
+32, Spring balance.</p>
+
+<p>33, Whistle. 34, Dome. 64, Exhaust pipe. 70, Cab.
+85, Brake blocks. 87, Life guards. 88, Trailing axle and
+wheel. 59, Heading axle and wheel. 54, Driving axle.
+O, Speed indicator. P, Splasher. S, Sand-box. T, Tool-box.
+V, Safety valve. W, Balance-wheel.</p>
+
+<p>Let us now take an inside view of the locomotive. Compare
+the numbers carefully with the cut, and take time to
+think what you are doing, otherwise don't read this part at
+all.</p>
+
+<p>1, 2, 3, Rings arranged telescopically, forming
+barrel of boiler. 4, Solid angle-iron ring. 5, Tube
+plate. 6, Smoke box. 7, Shell, or covering plate.
+8, Foundation ring. 9, Throat plate. 10, Back plate.
+11, Fire door. 12, Covering plate of inside fire-box. 13,
+Tube plate. 14, Back plate. 15, Stays. 16, Mouth-piece.
+17, Stays from inside fire-box to shell plate. 18, Palm stays.
+19, Tubes. 20, Smoke-box door. 21, Pinching screw. 22,
+Chimney. 23, Chimney cap. 24, Blast pipe. 25, Top of
+blast pipe. 26, Balance weight. 27, Wheel spokes. 28,
+Front buffer. 29, Mud plug. 30, Safety valve. 31, Safety lever.
+32, Spring balance. 33, Whistle. 34, Dome. 35, Regulator.
+36, Steam pipes. 37, Elbow pipe. 38, Brick arch. 39, Fire
+bars. 40, Ash pan. 41, Front damper. 42, Back damper.
+43, Frame plate. 44, Iron buffer beam (front). 45, Iron
+buffer beam (back). 46, (See half width plan) cylinder. 47,
+Cylinder posts, valve. 48, Valve chest. 49, Steel motion
+plate. 50, Horn blocks. 51, Axle boxes. 52, Slide bars.
+53, Connecting rod. 54, Crank shaft. 55, Crank shaft, big<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>
+end of. 56, Crank shaft, arm of. 57,
+Expansion link. 58, Weigh-bar shaft.
+59, Valve spindle. 60, Valve rod guide.
+(See half width plan). 61, Pump. 62,
+Delivery pipe. 63, Field pipe. 64, Exhaust
+pipe. 65, Volute spring. 66,
+Draw-bar hook. 67, Lamp iron. 68,
+Oil cup. 69, Oil pipes. 70, Cab. 71,
+Regulator handle. 72, Reversing lever.
+73, Draw-bar. 74, Draw-pin. 75, Steam-brake
+cylinder. 76, Hand-brake. 77,
+Sand-rod. 78, Front damper. 79, Back
+damper. 80, Trailing wheel. 81, Driving
+wheel. 82, Leading wheel. 83,
+Spring. 84, Hand rail. 85, Brake blocks.
+86, Waste water-cocks. 87, Life guard.
+88, Railing axle. 89, Leading axle. Z,
+Lead plug.</p>
+
+<p>43, Frame plate from end to end of
+engine. 44, Iron buffer-beam. 46, Cylinders.
+50, Horn block, to carry axle-box
+and brass. 51, Axle-box and brass.
+52, Slide bars. 53, Connecting-rod. 54,
+Driving axle. 55, Big end of driving
+axle. 56, Arm of driving axle. 59,
+Valve-spindle. 60, Valve-rod guide. 61,
+Pump. 76, Hand brake. 85, Brake
+blocks. 88, Trailing axle. 89, Leading
+axle. 90, Piston rod. 91, Piston head,
+held on the rod by a brass nut. 92,
+Backway eccentric rod. 93, Frontway
+eccentric rod. 94, Eccentric Straps. 95,
+Eccentric sheaves. 96, Tire. 97, Lip
+on tire. 98, Brake irons. 99, Foot
+plating. 100, Transverse stay. A, Water
+space between inside and outside
+fire boxes. B, Slide-block with end of
+pump-ram screwed into the end. C,
+Link motion (see 57, inside view). D,
+Slide valve rod, working guide. H, Inside
+journal, showing how the axle is
+supported inside of frame plates. I,
+Cross-head, solid, with piston rod.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i009large.jpg"><img src="images/i009.jpg" width="400" height="62" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Underneath the Locomotive&mdash;Half Width Plan.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>15, stays in walls of fire-boxes. 18,
+stays from crown plate to covering plate.
+19, tubes. 23, smoke-stack. 40, ash-pan.
+54, crank shaft. 55, big end of crank-shaft.
+56, arm of big end. 34, dome.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 340px;">
+<a href="images/i010large.jpg"><img src="images/i010.jpg" width="340" height="600" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">In Front of the Locomotive Cross-section.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A, water space. F, nave of wheel. P, P, splashers over
+driving wheels. R, right side of engine. L, left side of engine.</p>
+
+<p>75, steam brake handle. 33, whistle handle. 23, smoke
+stack. K, K, weather glasses. O, speed indicator. E, conductor's
+bell. N, oil for cylinder. X, blower handle. R,
+right side of engine. L, left side of engine. M, M, gauge
+glasses.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Some Points About the Locomotive.</span></p>
+
+<p>Here are a few interesting points about this particular
+locomotive which we have just been describing.</p>
+
+<p>It is a single engine on six wheels&mdash;which are well distributed,
+with a large boiler of abundant steam generating power
+with cylinders of great capacity, and driving wheels of
+moderate diameter.</p>
+
+<p>It is accompanied by a tender on six wheels, capable of
+holding a supply of 2,520 gallons of water, and 40 cwt. of coal.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding its great capacity, this tender is so low
+that a tall man may stand on top of the coal without fear of
+being knocked down by bridges.</p>
+
+<p>There are over 47 tons of metal in the locomotive and
+tender.</p>
+
+<p>When they are in full working order the gross weight
+with water and fuel amounts to 59 tons.</p>
+
+<p>This locomotive drew its first train 87 miles in 1 hour
+and 50 minutes.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Differences in Locomotives.</span></p>
+
+<p>It is an old saying and a true one that no two locomotives
+are ever alike, any more than two men are ever alike.</p>
+
+<p>The difference is due not so much to the materials of which
+the locomotive is built as to the method in which they are
+put together, for no two engines were ever put together
+geometrically alike.</p>
+
+<p>They may differ in some simple matter. It may be in the
+casting of the cylinders, in the quality of the copper of the
+fire box, in the valves or in the smoke stack. Whatever the
+difference may be there is still always a difference which is
+bound to affect the running qualities either for better or for
+worse.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center">HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.</p>
+
+
+<p>The boy who aims to become an engineer, if he desires
+success, must make up his mind to two things.</p>
+
+<p>First, that he will, all his life, have plenty of hard work.</p>
+
+<p>Second, that he will, in spite of all obstacles become a
+good engineer.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A boy who looks forward to the honorable calling should
+be of robust health and perfect physically. If these conditions
+do not exist, he should abandon the thought at once,
+and turn his attention to something else.</p>
+
+<p>There is no royal road to engineering any more than there
+is to any other honorable calling.</p>
+
+<p>A position must first be obtained in the round house as
+general helper.</p>
+
+<p>For a time the candidate must content himself with doing
+chores, cleaning up and any odd jobs which are given him to
+do.</p>
+
+<p>At this stage of the game he must cultivate habits of
+observation, be an attentive listener and try to understand
+and remember the "engine talk," that is going on about him.</p>
+
+<p>Everything he learns in this way is going to be of service
+later on.</p>
+
+<p>For the first few months, unless he is fortunate enough to
+gain favor in the eyes of some obliging engineer, no one is
+going to stop to explain matters and he need not expect it.
+Nevertheless there are a thousand and one little things that
+he can pick up if he is shrewd, all of which will come in play
+later on.</p>
+
+<p>When the locomotive is taken out watch how they do it.
+When it comes in keep your eyes open for points, and you
+will be sure to get them. When it breaks down and comes
+in for repairs then is the very time of all others to be on
+hand if you can and watch how they fix it.</p>
+
+<p>Every day will bring its own information&mdash;the boy's work
+is to watch and remember, but he must not ask too many
+questions, and never any at improper times, unless he
+desires the ill-will of everybody in the yard.</p>
+
+<p>By and bye he will be made an oiler, put to cleaning the
+big iron horse and other work of similar sort.</p>
+
+<p>After a time he will slip into a fireman's job, and then he
+must understand that his chance has come. Now all depends
+upon himself.</p>
+
+<p>Make friends with your engineer while you are acting as
+fireman, and learn from him all you can.</p>
+
+<p>The way to make friends is to be industrious, obliging and
+always courteous, no matter how tired you are or how badly
+things seem to go.</p>
+
+<p>The troubles and disappointments of one day should not
+be brought down to the next.</p>
+
+<p>Let every day be a new beginning in itself.</p>
+
+<p>Don't drink.</p>
+
+<p>Don't swear.</p>
+
+<p>Don't lose your temper and flare out under reproof.</p>
+
+<p>Don't shirk your work and try to do as little us you can.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 365px;">
+<a href="images/i011large.jpg"><img src="images/i011.jpg" width="365" height="600" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Behind the Locomotive&mdash;Looking in From the Cab.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Don't say to yourself so and so ain't my work and I ain't
+going to do it. Do whatever your hands find to do and do
+it with all your might.</p>
+
+<p>A model engineer is distinguished by the fullness of his
+knowledge of the engine, and this must be learned while you
+are a fireman&mdash;not after you become an engineer.</p>
+
+<p>He should love his work&mdash;the locomotive should be his
+hobby&mdash;and whatever contributes to enlarge his stock of information
+concerning it should contribute to his happiness.
+Unless he can feel that way, he should promptly step out of
+the cab and turn his attention to some other business, for
+he can never hope to make a good engineer.</p>
+
+<p>On the engine is the only place where one can learn to be
+an engineer.</p>
+
+<p>During the time the engine is under steam with a train,
+everything seen, heard, felt and smelt is capable of affording
+a lesson.</p>
+
+<p>On the engine the eye is trained to distinguish different
+colors at considerable distances. If one is color-blind he cannot
+be a good engineer.</p>
+
+<p>On the engine the ear learns to detect the slightest variation
+in the beats and knocks about the machinery&mdash;to distinguish
+the difference between the knock of an axle box and
+the knock of a journal.</p>
+
+<p>On the engine the body learns to distinguish the shocks,
+oscillations, etc., which are due to a defective road from
+those which arise from a defective engine. The olfactory
+nerves became very sensitive so as to detect the generation
+of heat from friction before any mischief is done.</p>
+
+<p>It is only while an engine is in steam and going at good
+speed that the rocks, coral-reefs and sand-banks on railways
+can be seen and learned, and the value of and the rank acquired
+by an engineer are in exact proportion to the pains
+he takes to find them out, and to remark their dangerous
+position on his chart.</p>
+
+<p>A model engineer can tell you all about any particular engine
+he happens to see merely by glancing at it.</p>
+
+<p>He will be able to say this was built by so and so. I know
+it by this crank, that piston. "Look here," he says, "that
+rod was built when I was a boy, it's all out of date now,
+consequently the engine must have been built in such a year."</p>
+
+<p>In short the model engineer should be familiar with the
+history of locomotive engines from Old No. 1 down to date.</p>
+
+<p>The model engineer is always a good fireman.</p>
+
+<p>A man may be a first-rate mechanic, he may have worked
+at the best class of machinery, he may have built engines
+and have read all the published books on the locomotive,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>
+and yet, if he is not a good hand at the coal shovel, he will
+never be a first-class engineer.</p>
+
+<p>A good fireman knows when to put on coal, how and where
+and just how much. A man may be the best mechanic the
+world ever saw and know nothing of these things which are
+the very all essentials of a good engineer.</p>
+
+<p>A model engineer is clean himself, and his engine is
+cleaner.</p>
+
+<p>Cleanliness is said to be next to godliness. Upon a railroad
+it may with truth be said that cleanliness is next below
+the highest talent and next above the length of service.</p>
+
+<p>A clean engineer frequently scales the ladder of progress
+much faster than a dirty one, although the latter may have
+everything else in his favor.</p>
+
+<p>A model engineer runs the most important trains, and he
+is never the man who wore the greasy, dirty cap or the coat
+and trousers all smeared with oil.</p>
+
+<p>What is the secret of constant successful engine driving?</p>
+
+<p>Not length of service, not because a man has served so
+many years on freight trains and so many more on passenger
+trains, for the best engineers are ever those who have been
+promoted over the heads of others for their smartness.</p>
+
+<p>Promotion according to merit should be the invariable
+rule on railroads. Seniority should have nothing to do with
+it. The position is too important, there are too many lives
+at stake, too much money involved to make it right or
+proper to push one man forward beyond another simply because
+of the length of his service. That sort of thing is all
+right for ordinary business, but for engine driving it won't
+do.</p>
+
+<p>Merit tells.</p>
+
+<p>To the best engineer belong the best trains.</p>
+
+<p>Chance never built an engine, and it should have nothing
+to do with running it.</p>
+
+<p>Yet the opposite way of doing things is the general rule.</p>
+
+<p>Engineer A retires, dies or is killed, and Engineer B is
+promoted because he happens to be next on the list. He
+may be a dull, stupid fellow, and Engineer C as bright as a
+dollar, but in the chance death of A, B gets the prize, and
+everybody that has any interest in the successful running
+of his train becomes the loser thereby.</p>
+
+<p>Engine driving, to be good, must be based upon rules and
+principles.</p>
+
+<p>He who strictly observes them wins; he who don't, loses.
+With the latter all is uncertainty; the hand trembles upon
+the regulator, the eye watches with painful anxiety the
+needle of the pressure gauge, and gazes into the fire to find<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>
+out its deficiencies, but gains nothing but blindness by the
+attempt.</p>
+
+<p>With the engineer who has a reason for every act performed,
+either by himself or his fireman, all is different. He
+works by rules and principles that have proved themselves
+a thousand times over to be safe, practical and certain in
+their results.</p>
+
+<p>Sound rules and principles are absolutely sure in the
+effects of their application&mdash;not right to-day and wrong to-morrow;
+not right in a short trip and all astray on a long
+one; not right on one particular engine and wrong on another;
+not right on the first part of the run and wrong at
+the end; not right with one kind of coal and wrong with
+another, but <i>always right, every time</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Under the guidance of sound rules and principles, the
+mind of the driver is full, and he is enabled, under all circumstances,
+to handle the regulator with confidence, to
+travel with a boiler full of steam, and to finish with success.</p>
+
+<p>In a word, these are rules and principles which lead up to
+and make the success of an engineer.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center">DUTIES OF AN ENGINEER.</p>
+
+
+<p>Let us now consider in detail some of the more important
+duties of an engineer.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">The Notice Board.</span></p>
+
+<p>Before going to his engine an engineer should, for his own
+safety, as well as that of the public, visit the special and
+general notice boards and post himself fully upon the running
+of the trains for the day. By neglecting this more than
+one engineer has lost his life.</p>
+
+<p>An anecdote bearing on this is related on good authority,
+as follows:</p>
+
+<p>"By incessant rain a river had become so swollen that,
+owing to the rush of water, the spiles of a wooden railway
+bridge became shifted.</p>
+
+<p>"The bridge was inspected, and one side of it pronounced
+to be dangerous. Arrangements were made to use only one
+track until repairs could be made, and notice of such arrangements
+posted in the round-house.</p>
+
+<p>"The engineer neglected to visit the notice board, ran his
+train past the man appointed to pilot him over the break,
+got his train off the track, and was killed."</p>
+
+<p>After the engineer has read the notices and made himself
+thoroughly acquainted with them, he may proceed to his engine&mdash;not
+before.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Inspection of the Engine.</span></p>
+
+<p>When on the foot plate the first thing an engineer wants
+to do is to inspect his engine in every part.</p>
+
+<p>Begin with the water in the gauge glass and ascertain its
+level and find out whether it correctly indicates the height
+of the water in the boiler by opening the lower cock in the
+usual manner.</p>
+
+<p>Satisfied that the boiler is safe, the engineer must assume
+the responsibility of looking after it, for should anything prove
+wrong afterward, he alone can be called to account.</p>
+
+<p>He should also observe what pressure of steam there is in
+the boiler, what is the condition of the fire, how much coal
+there is in the tender and its quality, and lastly that the
+water supply is all right.</p>
+
+<p>If the inspection is made properly all will go well; if in a
+half-hearted, slip-shod fashion trouble is sure to follow.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Inspection of an Engine over a Pit.</span></p>
+
+<p>It is a good and a safe rule to examine an engine over a
+pit before starting out. When this is done properly and
+regularly, the habit is unmistakably the mark of a good
+engineer.</p>
+
+<p>That an engine may be properly examined over a pit, it is
+necessary that it should be placed in such a position that
+every part of it may be seen and inspected without having
+the machinery moved.</p>
+
+<p>The examination, to be complete, should be commenced
+at one specified point, and continued all around the engine,
+until the engineer returns to the place where he began.</p>
+
+<p>In general, the only tools needed are wrenches.</p>
+
+<p>The inspection should begin at the trailing engine axle, on
+the engineer's side, and the best rule is to examine everything,
+not forgetting the fact that more engines break down
+in consequence of bolts and split pins working out than
+from any other cause.</p>
+
+<p>After the engineer's side has been properly examined, the
+under side of the engine next claims attention. The engineer
+should begin at the crank shaft, taking his stand, where
+it is possible to do so, between the shaft and the fire box,
+while he is testing the bolts and rivets connected with it.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Big Ends.</span></p>
+
+<p>Big Ends require to be fitted brass and brass, to work
+well, and to be well-cottered or bolted up, but with sufficient
+slackness on the crank bearing to allow of their being easily
+moved sideways by hand, so that a little room may be left
+for the expansion of the journal by heat.</p>
+
+<p>Big End brasses do best, wear longest, and knock least,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>
+when tightened up a little at a time and often, instead of
+being allowed to run until they thump alarmingly. With
+proper attention they seldom run hot.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Little Ends.</span></p>
+
+<p>Little Ends need scarcely any supervision excepting what
+is required from the oiler, provided they are fitted with steel
+bushes. Those fitted with brasses require the same attention
+as Big Ends.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Eccentrics.</span></p>
+
+<p>When the eccentrics are being examined particular attention
+should be paid to the bolts, nuts, safety-cotters and set-pins.
+The bolts which hold the two halves of each eccentric
+strap together should always nip tightly, as any slackness
+always affects the engine's speed.</p>
+
+<p>Inspect carefully also the inside springs and axle boxes,
+specially the latter. See that the fireman oils them; if he
+does not, you are to blame.</p>
+
+<p>The ash-pan, piston rod, smoke box, etc., all need to be
+looked at with care, for to run right the engine must start
+right, and this brings us to the most important thing of all&mdash;the
+condition of the fire before leaving the round house,
+for there is no other one thing on which an engineer's good
+name, success and future prospects depend so much as on
+the condition of the fire at the beginning of the day's work.</p>
+
+<p>If the fire is not properly lighted at the start, no matter
+how good the engine or how smart the engineer, constant
+trouble during the trip, to say nothing of an increased consumption
+of coal which is bound to tell against him, will be
+the result.</p>
+
+<p>Don't get to your work late, and don't allow your fireman
+to be late. If the fire is to be properly built he has got to
+take time to it. Fires thrown together in a hurry always
+turn out bad.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Duties of a Fireman.</span></p>
+
+<p>As the model engineer must first have served as fireman,
+let us say a word on that score.</p>
+
+<p>Before a fireman can serve on a passenger train, he should
+have served awhile as freight brakeman, or in the yard
+shifting cars. Before going on an express train, he must
+have run on slow trains as fireman. All this is necessary
+that he may acquire a knowledge of the petty details of his
+work.</p>
+
+<p>A superintendent who puts a green hand at firing certainly
+exhibits a great want of good judgment, to say the least,
+and just this has often been the cause of serious accidents
+and loss of life.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Here are a few things that a man must know before he can
+become an engineer:</p>
+
+<p>1. How to make up a proper fire in a locomotive fire-box.</p>
+
+<p>2. How to handle the shovel when the engine is running.</p>
+
+<p>3. How to learn roads and signals.</p>
+
+<p>4. How to calculate the effect of the weather on the
+rails.</p>
+
+<p>5. How to manage an engine and train on varying
+grades.</p>
+
+<p>6. How to have full control of an engine and train at full
+speed.</p>
+
+<p>7. How to work the steam expansively and yet keep
+time.</p>
+
+<p>8. How to regulate the water supply.</p>
+
+<p>9. How to read the gauges at a glance and understand
+just what they mean.</p>
+
+<p>Now all these things have got to be learned while a fireman,
+for unless you know them you can never become an
+engineer.</p>
+
+<p>Some engineers will give no instructions. They demand
+certain results, and if the fireman don't do just what they
+expect because he does not understand what is wanted, they
+call him a fool, snatch the shovel out of his hand and do the
+work themselves.</p>
+
+<p>It is the engineer who is the fool in this case, and doubly
+so if he loses his temper and swears.</p>
+
+<p>Certainly it is very hard for a sensitive young man to
+learn of such a master, but after all it is good discipline.</p>
+
+<p>Never mind if you are sworn at and dubbed an idiot. No
+matter if you do choke a few fires and stop a few trains.
+Persevere! Keep your temper, watch how the engineer does
+it and try to do the same yourself next time. Show him
+that you are not the idiot he has called you, prove that you
+are no fool by your patience and perseverance&mdash;qualities,
+like enough, which he himself does not possess.</p>
+
+<p>A first class engineer, however, will show a new fireman
+just what he wants done and how to do it.</p>
+
+<p>Here are a few lines from an excellent manual on engineering,
+describing the conduct of a good engineer to his fireman.
+Read them with care:</p>
+
+<p>"With good engineers an awkward fireman soon changes
+his habits and appearance&mdash;he gets the knots dressed off of
+him, as it were. Has he been taught to come on duty dirty
+and late? He is sharply reproved, and very properly too.
+Does he throw the fire irons down anywhere after using
+them? He is told there is a place for everything in that
+engine. Is he dirty about his work? He is shown how to
+handle the shovel, oil feeder and everything else without<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span>
+blackening himself to such a degree that a boy in the street
+mistakes him for a chimney sweep. Thanks to such engineers,
+who deserve much praise for keeping their firemen
+in proper training, for, just as they <i>are</i> trained so will they
+turn out engineers, good or bad."</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center">HOW TO RUN A TRAIN.</p>
+
+
+<p>A good engineer works his engine with direct reference to
+the number of cars he has to pull.</p>
+
+<p>It would seem as though any fool might know this, yet instances
+are on record where careless engineers have actually
+pulled out of a station without their trains, and never discovered
+that they were missing until they had occasion to
+whistle for brakes.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Starting.</span></p>
+
+<p>In starting the regulator should be opened gently, especially
+with a full boiler.</p>
+
+<p>Care is necessary when starting to keep the cylinders and
+valves clear of water. Half a pint of water will wash the
+faces of the cylinders and valves. Slip or no slip, it is better
+to use a little sand than to incur the risk of slipping when
+the rails are inclined to be slippery.</p>
+
+<p>When the engine begins to feel its load the regulator can
+be opened more. A few clear, sonorous puffs at the start do
+good; they rouse the fire into action at once&mdash;there is no
+hesitation in the matter. They also clear the tubes of loose
+cinders and soot left in them after being swept out.</p>
+
+<p>When you are well under way pull the lever up a notch or
+two at a time until you get it just where you want it. Don't
+jerk it too far, then let it out too much and have to pull it
+back. Feel your way as you go, and time and trouble will
+be saved.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing looks so bad as to see an engineer suddenly close
+the regulator, pull the lever very nearly out of gear and
+"smack" the steam on again. The force with which the steam
+may strike the piston under such circumstances is very great
+and often may do damage.</p>
+
+<p>To an attentive engineer the start is full of interest; for,
+although he may have made a careful and thorough examination
+of his engine before joining his train, he cannot feel
+satisfied that all is right until the full pressure of the steam
+is on the piston and the engine feels its load.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Steam Blowing.</span></p>
+
+<p>Now the engineer must begin to use his ears and eyes.</p>
+
+<p>As the train moves on he listens.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Is the steam blowing?</p>
+
+<p>It is.</p>
+
+<p>Which side?</p>
+
+<p>This is the way to find out.</p>
+
+<p>Suppose a blow is heard at each turn and only when the
+outside crank is nearly in a straight line with the piston rod
+looking from the left-hand side of the foot-plate and with the
+outside cranks on the same center line and on the same side
+of the axle as the inside crank.</p>
+
+<p>Then it would be discovered that a piston is blowing because
+the sound is intermittent, for the blowing through of a
+valve would be a continuous leaking.</p>
+
+<p>Further it would be certain that the defect was not in the
+left hand cylinder, there being no steam in it when the
+cranks were in the position above described, and therefore
+we must look to the right hand cylinder where the full pressure
+of steam must be on the piston.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Beats of the Engine.</span></p>
+
+<p>There are four beats for one revolution of the driving
+wheel or the crank axle.</p>
+
+<p>These beats tell you in emphatic language whether the engine
+is running right, or whether there is something out of
+gear.</p>
+
+<p>Learn what they mean and never let your attention be
+drawn from them.</p>
+
+<p>If the beats weaken&mdash;any one of them&mdash;it means trouble.
+Taken in time the difficulty may be easily remedied, allowed
+to pass unnoticed, death and disaster may result.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Keeping up Steam.</span></p>
+
+<p>It is scarcely necessary to state that to properly run your
+engine steam must be kept up.</p>
+
+<p>When the engine has got the train up to speed, steam
+should begin to issue from the safety valves. When it does
+not do so there has not been a full boiler, as there always
+should be at the start and the fireman must be made to understand
+how to make a starting fire in proper shape.</p>
+
+<p>On short runs this does not matter so much, but on express
+trains it is of the highest importance.</p>
+
+<p>On long runs if the engine is not instantly up to the mark
+at the start, and if the feeds must be held off to allow the
+fire and the engine a chance of recovery, the consequences
+are that the water in the boiler gets lower and less, and the
+uncertainty of ever getting the water up again becomes
+greater every minute, especially with a heavy train and
+against a strong side wind.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Management of Fires.</span></p>
+
+<p>Of course the state of the steam depends altogether upon
+the way the fires are managed, but for us to give directions
+how to manage a locomotive fire-box to the best advantage
+would require pages of description which could scarcely be
+understood unless one had had previous practical experience.</p>
+
+<p>Remember one thing, the engineer is responsible for the
+fire, even if he does not make it. He must therefore know
+when a fire is good and when it is bad, <i>why</i> and <i>what to do</i>.</p>
+
+<p>We shall, however, describe two styles of fire, the thoroughly
+bad and the thoroughly good. All intermediate grades
+every man must learn for himself.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">How To Build a Bad Fire.</span></p>
+
+<p>Pile your coal up in the shape of a cone, by shoveling all
+the coal into the middle of the fire box, and putting as little
+on the sides as you possibly can.</p>
+
+<p>Such a fire possesses the following characteristics: Uncertainty
+as regards steam making, positive certainty as regards
+the destruction of fire boxes and tubes. It generally
+draws air at the walls of the fire-box, and in consequence,
+the fire-irons are always in the fire, knocking it
+about and wasting the fuel.</p>
+
+<p>As such fires are found in the center of the grate, they
+weigh down the bars and burn them out in the middle in
+short order. Lastly, the cold air being admitted into the
+fire-box up the sides instead of in the middle, comes in direct
+contact with the heated plates and stays, doing them a
+great deal of damage by causing contraction and expansion.</p>
+
+<p>Take the best engine ever built and let an engineer run it
+awhile with these "haycock" fires, as they are called&mdash;and
+many do it&mdash;you will be sure to find the boiler subject to sudden
+leakage, either in the joints of the plates or in the stays,
+the tubes, or the foundation ring. Such engines are always
+in the repair shop, and because of bad firing and nothing
+else.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">How to Build a Good Fire.</span></p>
+
+<p>The good locomotive fire should maintain steam under all
+circumstances of load or weather, should consume its own
+smoke, should burn up every particle of good matter in the
+coal, or, in other words, capable of being worked to the
+highest point of economy.</p>
+
+<p>Such a fire requires to be made at the beginning, and
+maintained in a form almost resembling the inside of a saucer,
+shallow and concave, with its thinnest part in the center.</p>
+
+<p>A fire like this will make steam when other fires will make
+none.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It is the only style of fire that should be permitted by a
+good engineer.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Firing.</span></p>
+
+<p>To fire properly the fireman should stand in such a position
+as to be able to reach the coals in the tender easily, and to
+work the shovel without shifting his feet, except when he
+turns slightly on his heels, first, toward the coal, and then
+toward the fire hole.</p>
+
+<p>If a fireman, in the act of firing, lifts his feet off the foot
+plate, he will roll about, and the firing will be improperly
+done, in consequence of the coal being knocked off the
+shovel by the latter catching against the fire hole ring or depletion
+plate.</p>
+
+<p>Don't jam the shovel into the fire-box&mdash;stop it dead at the
+fire-hole ring. Give the coals a fling, discharging them like
+shot right into their intended destination.</p>
+
+<p>Don't jam your shovel into the coal and load it down as
+much as possible. A few lumps of coal lying nicely on the
+body of the shovel can be handled better. The shovel should
+not be pushed into the coal by the knees, but should be
+worked only by the muscles of the arm.</p>
+
+<p>Throw the first shovelful of coal into the left hand front
+corner, the second shovelful in the right hand front corner,
+the third shovelful in the right hand back corner, the fourth
+shovelful in the left hand back corner, the fifth shovelful under
+the brick arch, close to the tube plate; the sixth and last
+shovelful under the door. To land this one properly the
+shovel must enter the fire-box and should be turned over
+sharp to prevent the coals falling in the center of the grate
+or the fire.</p>
+
+<p>Now comes the question when to fire.</p>
+
+<p>To fire properly, with the greatest effect in saving fuel, it
+should be done as soon as the steam begins to lift the valves,
+when by opening the fire-door and putting on a small quantity
+of coal the steam is checked sufficiently to prevent its
+being wasted by blowing off.</p>
+
+<p>Some engineers have an idea that unless the steam blows
+off furiously they have not done their duty by the engine.</p>
+
+<p>A big mistake this.</p>
+
+<p>When steam, water and fuel are being thrown away
+through the safety valves, it is a positive proof of the existence
+of either one or the other of the following evils:</p>
+
+<p>Either the engine is too small for its work or too great for
+its man, and both the engine and the man would do better
+on short runs; the former until it could be doctored, or the
+latter until he had learned to bottle his noise.</p>
+
+<p>The intervals between the rounds of firing, which should<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>
+consist of six shovelfuls only each time the door is opened,
+is in every case regulated by the weight of the train or load,
+the state of the weather and the time allowed for running
+the trip, together with the quality of coal.</p>
+
+<p>The greatest possible mistake on an engine is putting on
+too much coal. The fire is choked, clinkers are formed, the
+temperature of the boiler is reduced, contraction and expansion
+sets in and leaks are formed&mdash;in a word everything goes
+wrong.</p>
+
+<p>The secret of good firing is to fire frequently, a little at a
+time.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Feeding.</span></p>
+
+<p>Having discussed fire, let us now consider the other element
+upon which the locomotive lives&mdash;water.</p>
+
+<p>The maintainance of steam in proper shape requires a
+knowledge of how and when to feed.</p>
+
+<p>The aim in feeding should be to regulate, as nearly as possible,
+the supply to the demand&mdash;just sufficient to keep the
+water at a proper level in the glass.</p>
+
+<p>This keeps up an even temperature in the boiler plates,
+tubes and fire-box, and this has much to do with the service
+of an engine. Many engineers always work their feed in the
+precise way to get the worst results.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the boiler is full of steam and blowing off they
+turn on the pump full and keep it on until the steam is from
+30 to 50 pounds below the maximum pressure before turning
+it off.</p>
+
+<p>This method is the very worst possible. What is wanted
+is a constant moderate supply of water, keeping the pressure
+as nearly even as possible. Nothing can beat this.</p>
+
+<p>When injectors are used one of them should be screwed
+down so that it will act moderately like a pump. This will
+save the water which is usually lost in turning injector on
+and off.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">On the Foot-plate.</span></p>
+
+<p>When the train is under full headway the engineer should
+stand in his proper place on the foot-plate so as to be able
+to command the regulator and reversing valve at an instant's
+notice.</p>
+
+<p>Especially is this necessary at night, when the engineer's
+attention should always be on his engine, listening constantly
+to its beats to detect any irregularity which may arise
+from some defect in the machinery, frequently casting his
+eyes on the pressure gauge, and on the level of the water in
+the gauge glass.</p>
+
+<p>When the fireman puts on coal, the engineer should look
+round occasionally, to be sure that he is doing it right, placing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>
+the coal next to the walls of the fire-box, and not piling
+them in a heap in the middle.</p>
+
+<p>When the rails are slippery, great care is required to prevent
+the engine from slipping, by closing the regulator in
+time.</p>
+
+<p>When about to enter a tunnel, the sand valves should be
+opened, and the sand allowed to flow freely until the train
+emerges from the tunnel&mdash;sand is cheaper than steam.</p>
+
+<p>Never forget that lives and property depend upon the
+faithful performance of your work.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center">HOW TO BUILD A MODEL LOCOMOTIVE.</p>
+
+
+<p>As a preparatory step toward becoming an engineer, it is
+highly desirable for the boy who looks forward to that honorable
+calling to familiarize himself with the different parts of
+the locomotive engine. This we have stated before.</p>
+
+<p>There is no better way to accomplish it than to build a
+model locomotive.</p>
+
+<p>At first glance this may seem to be among the things impossible,
+but it is not so, providing the boy has a mechanical
+turn, and any boy who has not better not think of becoming
+an engineer.</p>
+
+<p>We now propose to give simple and accurate directions
+for building a model locomotive, accompanying the same
+with a series of illustrations, which we trust will be sufficient
+for the purpose intended.</p>
+
+<p>Before beginning we have one word of caution to offer.</p>
+
+<p>Don't do your work in a hurry. Don't calculate on the
+length of time it is going to take you to do it. Make up
+your mind to understand each detail before you begin, and
+to work slowly and carefully.</p>
+
+<p>If you remember this you will probably be able to build
+your locomotive. If you forget it you certainly will fail.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">How to Begin.</span></p>
+
+<p>First of all in building a model locomotive, as in every
+other class of engineering work, it is necessary to get the
+measurements correct in spacing out the different parts to
+be joined together; and do not think that because it is only
+a model you are making that any off-hand way will do, because
+you will find before the engine is half finished that
+great accuracy is necessary if you wish your model to work.</p>
+
+<p>A slight mistake in the measurements of a large engine
+will cause so much friction as to take half its power to overcome.
+The same mistake with your model will stop it entirely.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In soldering be careful to get the metal thoroughly heated.
+You will then get a firm joint&mdash;otherwise not.</p>
+
+<table summary="scaffold" style="min-width: 50%;">
+<tr><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 123px;">
+<a href="images/i012large.jpg"><img src="images/i012.jpg" width="123" height="300" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 1.</div>
+</div>
+</td><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 92px;">
+<a href="images/i013large.jpg"><img src="images/i013.jpg" width="92" height="300" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 3.</div>
+</div>
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 64px;">
+<a href="images/i014large.jpg"><img src="images/i014.jpg" width="64" height="300" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 4.</div>
+</div>
+</td><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 73px;">
+<a href="images/i015large.jpg"><img src="images/i015.jpg" width="73" height="300" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 6.</div>
+</div>
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>In giving these directions we assume that the boy who
+will undertake to follow them is accustomed to the use of
+tools to some extent. If not, he will have to learn as he advances
+by repeated experiments.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Try your experiments on something else. In soldering, for
+instance, solder pieces of brass together until you learn to
+make a joint.</p>
+
+<p>Don't try your experiments on your model, or you will
+grow discouraged before you are half through.</p>
+
+<p>A word more about soldering.</p>
+
+<p>Do not touch the metal with the soldering-iron and then
+take it away. You might be able to solder in that way but
+the joint would not hold, but fall apart at the first pressure
+or slight blow.</p>
+
+<p>Soldering on the best work should be used very seldom,
+and all the fastenings should be either done by riveting,
+screwing or brazing, and it is hardly necessary to remark
+that no part of a boiler should be soldered which comes in
+contact with the flame of the lamp or furnace.</p>
+
+<p>Brazing had better not be attempted by any boy who has
+not been practically taught the art, unless it be on small
+joints.</p>
+
+<p>To braze the seams of a model boiler would require a
+forge fire, or a very powerful gas blast&mdash;too expensive for
+the amateur. Small things such as a broken slide valve,
+rod, etc., can be brazed by using a gas blowpipe.</p>
+
+<p>This will cost but little to make, and as it will be useful,
+we explain. See Fig. 1.</p>
+
+<p>To make a blowpipe such as is pictured in Fig. 1, first get
+a small piece of brass tube, A, of about half an inch diameter,
+and 5 inches long. Drill a hole at 2 inches from one end, and
+insert a piece of gas pipe, B, soldering it in place.</p>
+
+<p>Now take a glass tube a quarter of an inch in diameter and
+7 inches long, hold one end in a gas flame, and when red-hot
+draw it out to a fine point, then file round and break off
+the tip, leaving a small hole.</p>
+
+<p>Now take a sound cork and squeeze it into the tube A as
+at C, drill a quarter inch hole through its center, insert the
+glass tube D, and the blow pipe is finished.</p>
+
+<p>To use it you connect the pipe B with a gas bracket by
+means of a rubber tube, and attach the glass tube D to a
+pair of bellows by means of another piece of rubber tubing.
+The bellows should have an air-bag attached. Otherwise
+you will have a jerky, uncertain flame.</p>
+
+<p>When you want to braze any article, bind the parts together
+with some very fine brass wire and cover with a little
+powdered borax and water; then lay the article on a piece of
+charcoal, and if it is necessary to preserve the temper of the
+steel you are about brazing, cut a potato in half and push
+each end of the steel rod into the halves, which will keep the
+temperature from getting too high.</p>
+
+<p>Then turn on the gas and start your blow pipe, at the same<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>
+time working the bellows with your foot, and by either pushing
+in the glass tube D, or drawing it slightly out, you can
+regulate the shape of the flame as required.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i016large.jpg"><img src="images/i016.jpg" width="400" height="234" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 2.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 99px;">
+<a href="images/i019large.jpg"><img src="images/i019.jpg" width="99" height="225" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 11.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 149px;">
+<a href="images/i017large.jpg"><img src="images/i017.jpg" width="149" height="150" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 5.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 157px; clear: none;">
+<a href="images/i018large.jpg"><img src="images/i018.jpg" width="157" height="150" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 7.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 87px; clear: none;">
+<a href="images/i020large.jpg"><img src="images/i020.jpg" width="87" height="225" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 8.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 142px; clear: none;">
+<a href="images/i021large.jpg"><img src="images/i021.jpg" width="142" height="150" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 12.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div style="clear: both;"><!-- empty --></div>
+
+<p>Now bring the flame to bear on the joint you wish to
+braze, having first supplied plenty of borax. Soon you will<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>
+find the brass wire melting and running into the joint like
+water. It must then be neatly filled up and the joint will be
+scarcely visible.</p>
+
+<p>Here are a few tools which will be useful to you in this
+work.</p>
+
+<p>A center punch, or steel spike for mashing metal for drilling,
+etc., and a small riveting hammer. Three or four files
+of different degrees of fineness, a screw plate and taps, a
+small hand-drill with a set of drills to fit and a good firm vise.</p>
+
+<p>A lathe is of course desirable. Curves for bending metal
+you can easily make from pieces of bar-iron, holding them
+in the vise while working on them.</p>
+
+<p>When you have your tools ready get the material for your
+model.</p>
+
+<p>Several sheets of brass and copper, the castings and various
+sized screws and bolts are what will be required.</p>
+
+<p>All being thus prepared the time has arrived to take the</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">First Step.</span></p>
+
+<p>The first step toward building a model locomotive is to be
+posted on the action of steam in the cylinder.</p>
+
+<p>Go to encyclopedia and read up on that point.</p>
+
+<p>If you have no encyclopedia go and look one up in some
+library. You can't build your engine until you understand
+this.</p>
+
+<p>Next draw an accurate plan of your model.</p>
+
+<p>Figure 2 is the idea. It is a side view of our locomotive.
+Let us describe.</p>
+
+<p>A. Boiler.</p>
+
+<p>B. Smoke-stack.</p>
+
+<p>C. Screwhead, to fill boiler with water.</p>
+
+<p>D. Steam chest with safety valve attached on top.</p>
+
+<p>E. Whistle.</p>
+
+<p>F. Steam tap to start the engine with.</p>
+
+<p>H. H. Leading and trailing wheels.</p>
+
+<p>I. Driving wheel.</p>
+
+<p>K. Cylinders.</p>
+
+<p>L. Frame.</p>
+
+<p>M. Buffers.</p>
+
+<p>N. Set thumbscrew to fasten on the tender.</p>
+
+<p>O. The lamp.</p>
+
+<p>P. Tap, used to ascertain the quantity of water in the
+boiler.</p>
+
+<p>R. S. Hand rail.</p>
+
+<p>To all locomotives there are three principal parts, the
+frame work, or carriage, the engine, or cylinders, and parts
+connected with them, and the boiler.</p>
+
+<p>Our model shall be a fifteen inch one.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Laying out Materials</span></p>
+
+<p>is the next thing in order. First we want a sheet of brass
+for the bed plate, 1/16th of an inch thick, cut 4×14 inches,
+and be sure to cut the corners square. (See Figure 3.)</p>
+
+<p>Hammer this out flat, file it smooth and dress up, with
+emery cloth fastened upon a flat piece of wood.</p>
+
+<p>Next cut a square hole in it as at C, beginning half an
+inch from B, and making the opening 11 × 1-1/2 inches. Be
+careful to center this hole on the line A B, or your engine
+will be lopsided, and you must take the same care in setting
+the smoke stack, dome, etc.</p>
+
+<p>Now take Fig. 4. This represents one of the side frames.
+Cut these out now, thus:</p>
+
+<p>Drill holes at A B C for the axles to work in. Finish both
+sides the same way. Turn the bed plate upside down, fasten
+the frames on at a quarter of an inch from either side by
+small angle pieces (Fig. 5), or by soldering, which is easier
+done. Then solder a piece across each end, about half an
+inch deep, and the frame is ready for the wheels.</p>
+
+<p>These you can make if you have a lathe, but it would be
+better to buy your wheels ready made if you can, but if you
+can't do that, and have the lathe, turn your tires up to the
+form shown in Fig. 6.</p>
+
+<p>The small wheels should be about 2-1/2 inches in diameter,
+and the driving wheels, 4 inches. The rim, B, should project
+a little over 1/16th of an inch, and the rest of the edge
+should be beveled off rightly, as at A.</p>
+
+<p>The spokes should then be filed up smooth, drilling out
+the center hole for the axle before removing it from the
+lathe.</p>
+
+<p>Great care must be taken to turn both the driving wheels
+to exactly the same diameter, or one wheel would travel further
+in a revolution than the other, and as they ought both
+to be fixed rigidly on the crank shaft, the engine would never
+travel in a straight line, but would go round and round in a
+circle.</p>
+
+<p>Get some steel wire for the axles and fasten them to the
+wheels by soldering or by cutting a slot with a fine file in the
+center of the wheel, as at A, Fig. 7. Then file a small portion
+of the ends of the axle flat and drive in a brass wedge
+made by a piece of wire which will hold them together
+firmly.</p>
+
+<p>The crank shaft, or axle, must be hammered up to shape,
+making it hot occasionally in the gas flame while working
+it.</p>
+
+<p>The cranks should be at right angles to each other, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>
+the throw of the crank half the distance of the cylinder
+stroke.</p>
+
+<p>For instance, say the cylinder being a 1-1/2 inch stroke, the
+distance between A B (Fig. 8) will be three-quarters of an
+inch, you must then ease the size of the crank at A to prevent
+the piston knocking the cylinder ends.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i022large.jpg"><img src="images/i022.jpg" width="400" height="121" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 9.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The cylinders you had better buy ready made or have them
+made for you. Get a pair of oscillating cylinders of three-quarter
+inch bore and inch and a half stroke. These will
+drive your engines several miles an hour.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Fig. 9 gives an underneath view of the frame work and the
+place to put the cylinders in. They must be supported by
+two lugs, A A, screwed to the bed plate B, which must have
+a piece cut out on either side to allow the driving wheels C,
+to work in, as at D; because, being larger than the others,
+they project beyond the top of the bed plate, as shown in
+Fig. 2.</p>
+
+<p>Next screw on by means of the hook F, the buffer beam,
+previously cut from a piece of mahogany, 5 inches long, half
+an inch thick and one inch deep, nicely squared and sand
+papered. Drill a hole at G, and pass the shank of the hook
+through the beam and piece of brass in front of the frame,
+screwing up tight with nut H.</p>
+
+<p>For buffers you may take two brass, flat-headed screws,
+and attach them to the beam half an inch from either end,
+allowing half an inch projection.</p>
+
+<p>Now polish everything smooth and bright. Next warm
+the model over the gas&mdash;don't let it get hot&mdash;and carefully
+lacquer it with a small brush taking care not to go over any
+part more than once. The spokes of the wheels must be
+painted, the buffer beams varnished and the cylinders painted,
+leaving the covers and flanges bright. Now put away your
+work to dry, covering carefully from dust.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">How to Make the Boiler.</span></p>
+
+<p>In making the boiler you can't be too careful. This is the
+part where the greatest chance for failure comes in.</p>
+
+<p>Buy a piece of copper tubing 11 inches long, 3 inches wide
+and half an inch in diameter.</p>
+
+<p>If you want to make it yourself bend your copper round a
+wooden roller and rivet or solder together&mdash;riveting is the
+best if you can get it tight. You must then turn two circles
+of brass about an eighth of an inch thick for the ends and
+polish all. Fig 10 gives you the idea.</p>
+
+<p>Now push the ends into either end of the tube about an
+eighth of an inch from the edge, as at A, Fig. 11, and solder
+in place. The projecting flange must be hammered down
+all around as at B, soldered and finished with a half round
+file. When filing solder use only an old worn file as a good
+one soon fills up.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Smokestack, Tubes, etc.</span></p>
+
+<p>Now drill a hole at A (Fig. 10) for the smokestack, which
+should be three-quarters of an inch in diameter. Then cut
+a slot in the bottom of the boiler 6 inches long by 1-1/2 inches
+wide, commencing one-quarter of an inch from the forward
+end of the boiler.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i023large.jpg"><img src="images/i023.jpg" width="400" height="219" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 10.</div>
+</div>
+
+<table summary="scaffold" style="min-width: 50%;">
+<tr><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 191px;">
+<a href="images/i024large.jpg"><img src="images/i024.jpg" width="191" height="150" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 13.</div>
+</div>
+</td><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 170px;">
+<a href="images/i025large.jpg"><img src="images/i025.jpg" width="170" height="200" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 14.</div>
+</div>
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 52px;">
+<a href="images/i026large.jpg"><img src="images/i026.jpg" width="52" height="225" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 15.</div>
+</div>
+</td><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<a href="images/i027large.jpg"><img src="images/i027.jpg" width="200" height="108" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 16.</div>
+</div>
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Next take a sheet of copper and cut a piece about 6-1/4<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a><br /><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>
+inches long by 6 inches wide and bend it over a wooden
+roller to the shape shown in Fig. 12, keeping it 1-1/2 inches
+apart between A and B. Cut also two other pieces of copper
+to the shape of your bent sheet (Fig. 12), and make it long
+enough to reach to the dotted line. These form the two ends,
+and may be placed an eighth of an inch from the edges, as in
+Fig. 13, and soldered in place, and the projecting rims turned
+over and sweated with solder from the outside, in the same
+manner that you did the boiler ends in Fig. 11. Then drill
+a three-quarter inch hole at B (Fig. 13) for the bottom of the
+smokestack to go into, and cut a piece of three-quarter inch
+brass tubing of sufficient length to pass out at top of boiler
+about half an inch, as shown at A, Fig. 10. You can then
+hammer out a rim or flange on the bottom end of the smokestack
+and push it up through the hole in the copper box,
+soldering it in place from the top as at A, Fig. 14. Then
+drill two small holes at each end of the box, B C, Fig. 14.
+These should be a little more than an eighth of an inch in
+diameter, to allow an eighth of an inch tube to pass through.</p>
+
+<p>Now get two 12-inch lengths of hard drawn steam pipe,
+an eighth of an inch in diameter, and with your screw plate
+put a thread on each end, about half an inch in length.
+Then make eight nuts to fit the threads on the piping, filing
+them up into proper shape.</p>
+
+<p>Now take the piping and bend it very gently, to prevent it
+cracking, around a bar of iron or handle of some tool held in
+the vise, until it is in the form shown in Fig. 15. Do each
+one the same, then mix a little turpentine with white lead,
+and smear each end, where you have formed the screws,
+taking care not to get any into the tubes, which can be temporarily
+plugged up.</p>
+
+<p>Next put a nut at either end, as far as the thread will take
+it, then smear a little white lead around the holes drilled in
+the ends of the box, B C, Fig. 14.</p>
+
+<p>Push the tubes in from the inside, and screw up firmly
+with the remaining nuts, in the position shown at Fig. 16.
+The inside nuts can then be tightened up with a wrench, and
+if you do all this carefully, you will never be troubled with
+any leakage, no matter what pressure you may get in your
+boiler.</p>
+
+<p>These tubes are immensely strong, and owing to their
+small size, the water in them is raised quickly to a higher
+temperature than that contained in the rest of the boiler,
+causing a continual circulation to take place, and a constant
+supply of steam to be found.</p>
+
+<p>The box can now be placed in the boiler, through the slot
+cut in the bottom, taking care that the top of the box is not
+more than half way up the boiler, as at B, Fig. 10. This<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>
+will leave a portion projecting below the lower edge of boiler
+like C. This part protects the flame of the lamp from being
+blown away by the draught caused by traveling along, and
+which would cause you to lose steam. Solder it firmly in
+position from the outside to prevent the flame from touching
+any soldered portion. Also solder neatly round A, Fig. 10.</p>
+
+<p>The smoke stack can be made from another piece of
+three-quarter inch brass; turn it up in your lathe bright
+and put a collar on it at A Fig. 17, to allow it to push on
+to the piece of tube left projecting at A Fig. 10.</p>
+
+<p>The top of the smoke stack, B Fig. 17, will also require
+turning in the lathe and must be fitted on neatly.</p>
+
+<p>Get advice from some mechanic about the steam chest,
+which is a brass casting and will have to be turned up in the
+lathe, and after cutting a circular hole in the top of the
+boiler of about an inch in diameter it can be either screwed
+or soldered on, previously putting the steam pipe E in
+position by drilling a hole at F and after bending it as
+shown, pass it through at F and solder in place. The top of
+pipe E should be about a quarter of an inch from the top of
+inside of steam chest.</p>
+
+<p>Before soldering on the steam chest drill two holes as at G
+H Fig. 10, one for the small lug G to be screwed into, which
+holds one end of the lever of the safety valve, and that at H
+should be drilled conical with a rimer, and the valve H can
+be turned in the lathe and afterwards ground to fit the hole
+with a little emery and water, by means of a slot cut across
+the top and worked round with a screw driver.</p>
+
+<p>The spring case of the safety valve I, Figure 10, is easily
+made from a piece of one-eighth inch brass tubing, using
+some small, hard, brass wire to form the spring. When finished
+it should be hooked to the eye and screwed into the
+boiler at V.</p>
+
+<p>The manhole or screwhead, K, is used to refill the boiler
+when it has steamed low and will have to be turned up to
+shape, and the bed, L, which it screws into can be firmly
+soldered on the boiler, having first drilled a hole slightly
+larger than the diameter of the screw itself, which should be
+sufficiently large to allow an ordinary tin funnel to be used
+to refill by, and the screw ought to be long enough to hold a
+leather washer under the head to keep it steam-tight.</p>
+
+<p>The whistle, M, will require a hole drilled for it to be
+screwed into, and that, as also the steam-tap, N, and water-tap,
+O, can be bought cheap, ready to put on.</p>
+
+<p>The tap O should be screwed in at a slightly higher level
+than the top of box B, and when working the engine should
+steam issue from it when turned on instead of water, you<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>
+ought to immediately blow off steam by safety valve H.
+Then unscrew K, and refill the boiler with water.</p>
+
+<table summary="scaffold" style="min-width: 50%;">
+<tr><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 69px;">
+<a href="images/i028large.jpg"><img src="images/i028.jpg" width="69" height="225" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 17.</div>
+</div>
+</td><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<a href="images/i029large.jpg"><img src="images/i029.jpg" width="200" height="96" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 18.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<a href="images/i030large.jpg"><img src="images/i030.jpg" width="200" height="111" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 19.</div>
+</div>
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i031large.jpg"><img src="images/i031.jpg" width="400" height="114" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 21.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i032large.jpg"><img src="images/i032.jpg" width="400" height="79" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 22.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>By this time the framework will be quite dry, no doubt, so
+you can, after cleaning and polishing the boiler, attach it to
+the frame by a screw or solder at the forward end, and the
+steam-pipe N can be screwed on to the projecting piece of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>
+tube left at F, while you also screw a short length of pipe
+into the steam box of engine through a hole in the bed plate.
+Then bend it up to the steam tap, and solder them carefully
+in position; this will hold the after end of the boiler firm.</p>
+
+<p>Go over every soldered joint to see if any small hole is left,
+and resolder where necessary, as a hole in the boiler not
+larger than a pin's point would prevent you from getting any
+pressure of steam in the boiler, as the water would all blow
+out.</p>
+
+<p>Now lacquer or paint your boiler, and while it is drying
+turn your attention to the lamp, which we picture in Fig. 18.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">The Lamp.</span></p>
+
+<p>The lamp is simply an oblong tin box, about 5 inches
+long by 1-1/4 inches wide and three-quarters of an inch deep.</p>
+
+<p>To make it cut a piece of tin 4-1/2 by 5 inches and bend it
+to shape. Then solder the two edges together and cut two
+ends to fit; push them in and solder in place.</p>
+
+<p>Now cut three pieces of brass quarter-inch tubing into
+three-quarter inch lengths; drilling holes in top of lamp, insert
+them, allowing a quarter of an inch to project, as at A,
+Fig. 17. Then solder them on four pieces of bent wire&mdash;C,
+C, C, C, Fig. 18&mdash;by which to hang the lamp by means of
+two wire pins run through them and small holes drilled in
+the sides of projecting piece C, Fig. 10.</p>
+
+<p>The screw filler B, Fig. 18, will have to be soldered in,
+also, and when complete the tubes A may be filled with cotton
+wick and the lamp about three-parts full of a methylated
+alcohol, which will give a clear, smokeless flame.</p>
+
+<p>Now you can start your locomotive by filling the boiler
+about three parts full of hot water, and then hooking the
+lamp underneath; you will soon get up a good pressure of
+steam.</p>
+
+<p>See that the taps are all turned off, and if there is no leakage
+from careless workmanship, you will find on turning the
+steam tap on, that the locomotive will run beautifully and
+will travel at great speed either on a smooth oil-cloth or a
+board floor.</p>
+
+<p>On rails it would run quicker still, but for this engine, if
+you make a small tender of the shape shown in Fig. 19, and
+fasten it at any angle by the set-screw on the foot-plate of
+the engine shown at N, Fig. 2, the model will run in any
+sized circle you may wish without rails, according to the
+angle you fix the tender to the engine.</p>
+
+<p>Wooden cars you can make if you wish, but each one added
+will reduce the speed of the engine, of course.</p>
+
+<p>Tin is the best material to use for the tender, as no great
+strength is required&mdash;indeed it should be made as light as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span>
+possible. The wheels and axles you must finish in the same
+manner as those on the engine, and it can be made into a
+tank to hold an extra supply of alcohol by soldering a piece
+of tin round the inside and covering it in with another piece
+cut to shape and fitted with a screw nut to fill by as shown
+in Fig. 18.</p>
+
+<p>Such is the method of constructing a model locomotive
+which will run without complicated machinery.</p>
+
+<p>The boy who has succeeded in following these directions
+will no doubt be ambitious to try his hand on a more complete
+model on a larger scale, something like Fig. 20 for instance,
+which is a side view of a large model locomotive in a
+finished state.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">How to Build a Large Model Locomotive.</span></p>
+
+<p>In building a large model the first thing to be done is to
+decide how large you want it. Sketch your model carefully,
+or, if not able to draw plans, get some one who is to help
+you. Make your plan the exact size of the model you intend
+to build, then you can take all the measurements from it and
+save yourself a lot of trouble and time.</p>
+
+<p>Remember, however, that the larger you make the engine
+the more expensive the castings and materials will be.</p>
+
+<p>Should you persevere, however, and by good fortune succeed,
+you will have a model locomotive that would cost you
+two or three hundred dollars to buy ready made. If you
+have a lathe and can turn the wooden models for the castings
+yourself, use sheet iron for the frame-work, etc., where
+possible; the total expense will not be so very great.</p>
+
+<p>Begin your work in the same way you did on the other
+model. If you want a bigger engine than the one shown in
+Fig. 20, there would be no trouble in increasing the measurements,
+which we are about to give, proportionately, remembering
+that Fig. 20 is drawn to an eighth-inch scale.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Dimensions.</span></p>
+
+<p>Make your dimensions as follows: Length over all, 3 ft.
+2 in. Length of bed-plate, 3.5 in. Width of bed-plate, 9 in.
+Diameter of driving wheels, 8-1/4 in. Diameter of leading
+wheels, 5-1/4 in. Gauge&mdash;that is width of track on which
+model can run&mdash;6-1/2 in. Cylinders, 1-3/4 in. bore by 2-1/2
+in. stroke. Length of boiler, including smoke box, 28 in.
+Diameter of boiler, 5 in.</p>
+
+<p>Cylinders of the above dimensions will drive the engine at
+a high rate of speed, with from 30 to 50 lbs. of steam.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Description of Large Model Locomotives.</span></p>
+
+<p>In Fig. 20, the different parts of the engine are lettered,
+and it will be well for the boy who desires to make a locomotive<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a><br /><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>
+like it to compare the following description with the
+cut, before he does anything else.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i033large.jpg"><img src="images/i033.jpg" width="400" height="179" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 20.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>A is the smoke stack and B the steam blast used to increase
+the intensity of the fire worked by rod C running
+through the hollow hand-rail D and ending in handle F. G
+is the steam-dome, which with the safety valve is the same
+pattern previously used. H is the extra safety valve, worked
+from the foot-plate. I is the steam whistle, K wind guard,
+L starting lever, M smoke-box with door, N O spring buffers;
+P is the line-clearer or wheel guard. Q are the leading
+wheels, R R the driving wheels, S is one of the cylinders with
+piston rods and guides bolted to frame and showing double
+connecting rod at T T. U U are the springs which support
+the weight of the boiler, etc., on the axle bearings. The
+spring or rear wheel does not show, being inside the safety
+guard and hand-rail V. W is the back pressure valve,
+through which the water is thrown by the force-pump into
+the boiler, and X is the blow-off tap to clear the engine
+from all water after having used it. Y shows the side of the
+ash-pan.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">How to do the Work on the Large Model Locomotive.</span></p>
+
+<p>First of all comes the frame work. It wants to be of
+eighth inch sheet iron squared up perfectly true and flat
+and cut as is shown in Fig. 21, beginning 4-1/2 inches from
+A, and leaving 6 inches at B, and cutting it 6 inches wide
+there by 8 inches long, and continuing it 4 inches wide for
+the rest of the distance. Be careful to keep it quite central on
+the line A B, and leave two connecting strips 1 inch wide
+as at C C.</p>
+
+<p>The side frames come next. These must be much stronger
+and quite different from those used in the previous model.
+They may be cut from the same eighth inch iron to the
+shape shown in Fig. 22.</p>
+
+<p>The center of slot B is 17 inches from one end, the center
+of A 10 inches from B, and the center of C 13 inches from B.</p>
+
+<p>In measuring, always start from a given center if you want
+to be accurate. That is, from B to A and from B to C; not
+from B to A and from C to B.</p>
+
+<p>The slots are each 1-1/4 inches wide by 2 inches deep, leaving
+1 inch of iron at the top, as shown. The four large
+boles shown in Fig. 23 are only ornamental, and can be now
+cut out. They also serve to lighten the frame.</p>
+
+<p>The frames, after being smoothed up can be fastened to
+the bed plate in the manner described before, by angle-irons,
+or knees, riveted on.</p>
+
+<p>Two end pieces must also be prepared. Let them be 1
+inch deep, with the ends hammered square, at right angles,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>
+and then riveted to the bed plate and side frames, as shown
+in Fig. 20. Then drill three holes in them, about an inch and
+a half from either end, and one in the center, by which to
+bolt on the buffer beams by means of a couple of screws put
+in at the back. The buffer beams should be mahogany, 1
+inch wide by 2 deep by 10 long, squared nicely and sandpapered.
+A hook can then be made&mdash;Fig. 23&mdash;and a hole
+being drilled in the center of the beam, you can pass the
+hook stem through and into the central hole of framework,
+and screw up tight with nut at back, which will hold all
+firmly in place. The buffers for this model must be properly
+made, with springs to take the pressure in case you should
+run into anything.</p>
+
+<p>Fig. 24 shows this buffer. You will have to get it cast.
+Turn out in your lathe a wooden mold and get four castings
+in brass made from it. A Fig. 24 is cast with a square base
+plate 2 inches square, as in front view B, and is secured to
+the buffer beam by four flat-headed screws. The piece C
+must be turned true and just the size to slide in and out of A
+easily. Each part must be finished up in the lathe. A should
+be an inch and a half long. Drill a hole in the buffer beam
+to allow the head of the pin to work freely, and another hole
+in base plate of buffer the size of the pin, whose head prevents
+the spring from forcing C entirely away from A.</p>
+
+<p>The spring should be made of thick steel wire; the buffers
+can then be screwed in as just mentioned. The wheel-guard
+or line-clearer P (Fig. 20) can next be cut out to shape and
+bolted on to frame, and should just clear the line by a quarter
+of an inch.</p>
+
+<p>We will now proceed to the axle bearings and springs, U,
+Fig. 20.</p>
+
+<p>Make a wooden model like Fig. 25, and get 6 castings in
+brass made from it. They must then be filed up square and
+smooth and fitted into the slots cut at A, B, C, Fig 22, and
+either screwed or riveted on by the side holes. Before
+finally fixing them prepare 6 brass bearings, B, Fig 25, which
+must fit exactly and slide easily in the inner surface of A,
+then drilling a hole through each five-eighths of an inch in
+diameter. These take the axles, which in this model are all
+straight, and three-quarters of an inch in diameter, shouldered
+off to five-eighths for the bearings.</p>
+
+<p>Next for the springs. Take 4 pieces of either sheet iron or
+brass for the supports, 1-1/2 inches long by 1/4 inch wide. Drill
+a hole in either end as shown at C, Fig. 26. A should be three-eighths
+of an inch wide, drilled through, a pin put in and all
+riveted together loosely.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<a href="images/i034large.jpg"><img src="images/i034.jpg" width="150" height="59" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 23.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i035large.jpg"><img src="images/i035.jpg" width="400" height="182" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 24.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<a href="images/i036large.jpg"><img src="images/i036.jpg" width="300" height="163" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 25.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<a href="images/i037large.jpg"><img src="images/i037.jpg" width="300" height="320" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 26.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Now take a clock spring and cut it into shape, as at D,
+Fig. 26. The top piece requires to be made hot with your<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>
+blow-pipe, then the ends turned over to hold the pin B. Each
+piece of spring must be a little shorter than the one above
+it, and the ends neatly tapered, all to be inclosed in the
+brass band F, which has a small hole drilled at F to hold the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>
+end of the pin by which the pressure is directed on to the axle
+boxes, as shown in Fig. 20. A hole is also to be drilled in
+the bed plate over the center of each axle box to allow the
+pin to pass through, and also a smaller one an inch and a
+half on each side for the support A, Fig. 26, to screw into.
+Now all can be fitted into position.</p>
+
+<p>Next come the cylinders. These are to be an inch thick
+and three-quarters bore by two and a half inch stroke. They
+should be of the fixed slide-valve pattern, with double eccentrics
+fitted on the middle axle shaft, and reversing lever
+brought to quadrant on foot plate. They had better be
+bought ready made.</p>
+
+<p>Fig. 27 shows their working. A A are the eccentrics, B the
+slide-valve rod with guide G attached. C C is the bed plate
+and D the balance weight, F the rod leading to quadrant and
+lever on foot plate. The cranks are put on outside the
+wheels and fastened by keys as in Fig. 20. The connecting
+rod T should be cut to the form shown in Fig. 28, and the
+ends squared out and a brass band fitted in with a hole drilled
+from top A to oil by and a set screw B to adjust the
+bearings perfectly.</p>
+
+<p>If you wish to fit a force pump it should be placed centrally
+between the cylinders and be worked by an eccentric on the
+main shaft, but a pump on a model locomotive is next to
+useless unless it is also made to work by hand.</p>
+
+<p>In Fig. 29, we have one which can be worked either way.
+A is the pump; B the eccentric on main-shaft to work it by
+steam power. To work by hand you have only to push up
+hook connection C, which disconnects it from the eccentric;
+and then by working the handle D, which is screwed into the
+bottom of the plunger C, the water is forced into the boiler.
+An extra stuffing-box at F will be required. G is the exhaust
+water pipe bent up to the back-pressure valve on boiler, and
+H the supply pipe carried on to rear of engine.</p>
+
+<p>Two small blow-off cocks will be necessary on each cylinder
+to get rid of the condensed steam when starting. They
+can be connected with a tye-rod, and both worked from the
+foot-plate with a single handle. Now paint to suit your
+taste and put away to dry.</p>
+
+<p>Next comes the boiler, which will need extreme care. For
+this you will require sheet copper an eighth of an inch thick.</p>
+
+<p>First cut a piece 19 inches long by 16 wide and bend it
+round, forming a cylinder 5 inches in diameter. The cap
+must be closely riveted and the two ends hammered out into
+a flange outward, leaving the body of the boiler 17 inches
+long, as in Fig. 30. B is the shape of the piece to be next
+riveted on at after end. Now take another sheet 9 inches
+wide and hammer a half inch flange round it, so as to fit over<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>
+the dotted line at A. Rivet them firmly together and also
+another piece in after end. It will then have the appearance
+of Fig. 31, and should be 4-1/2 inches deep from A to B, and
+forming a copper box 6 inches wide from B to C and 8 inches
+from C to D. Then rivet together another box to form the
+inner casing 4-1/2 inches wide by 6-1/2 inches long and 9 inches
+deep, the bottom to be hammered outward to the dimensions
+of B C C D, as shown in section Fig. 32 at A A.
+A hole is next to be cut out in the center of rear plate and
+also the rear part of inner casing which comes opposite to
+it, and 1-3/4 inches by 2-1/2 forming the furnace door.</p>
+
+<p>A casting of that shape and 3/4 of an inch thick, which is
+the distance between the inner and outer casing B C, must
+be procured and drilled with holes every 3/8 of an inch and
+firmly riveted in position, as shown in Fig. 32 at D. Two
+pins should project on either side of the inner surface to support
+the fire-bars and ash pan, and the bars should be made
+of cast iron and small enough to get out easily by tilting
+up one side; they should run lengthwise of the engine.</p>
+
+<p>For the boiler tubes some hard drawn brass tubing three-quarters
+of an inch in diameter will be required. Cut the
+pieces slightly over 17 inches long, then drill 10 holes in the
+inner plate as at E, Fig. 32, and in the position and arrangement
+shown in Fig. 33. These tubes should have a wire
+ring brazed on about a quarter of an inch from either end,
+and then being placed in their respective holes in the tube
+plate, the projecting portion is to be headed back with a
+flange, or you can fit them in as already shown in Fig. 16 by
+each being double screwed and nutted. These tubes allow
+the smoke and flame to pass through from the furnace to the
+smoke box, M, Fig. 20, and so away up the smoke stack, and
+by the large surface they expose to the fire, help to raise
+steam very quickly. In some engines as many as 300 tubes
+are fitted.</p>
+
+<p>The steam supply pipe and regulating lever handle should
+now be made and placed in position, and Fig. 34 shows the
+shape to make it. A B are the front and rear plates of the
+boiler, C is the supply pipe bent with a screw end downward,
+after passing plate A, and then upward into the steam dome,
+where it should be securely fastened into a cross-piece. D
+is the tap or valve which can be turned on or off from the
+foot-plate by means of the long rod, F, ending in the lever
+handle, G.</p>
+
+<p>The rod must be fitted with a stuffing-box, the same as
+those used on the cylinders, and packed with cotton wick to
+prevent loss of steam by leakage. When all this is complete,
+the forward end of the boiler can be furnished with a tube-plate
+riveted on and the tubes flanged over.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Now the boiler must go to a practical brazier, and be
+properly brazed. Cut the hole for the steam dome, and let him
+braze it on at the same time. If the job is practically done,
+your boiler can be heated red-hot without fear.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i038large.jpg"><img src="images/i038.jpg" width="400" height="189" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 27.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 175px;">
+<a href="images/i039large.jpg"><img src="images/i039.jpg" width="175" height="60" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 28.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i040large.jpg"><img src="images/i040.jpg" width="400" height="283" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 29.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Meanwhile buy your pressure gauge&mdash;it wants to be one
+and a half inches in diameter&mdash;and let the brazier test your
+boiler to 100 pounds steam to the square inch capacity.</p>
+
+<p>Should it burst you will have to make another. If not you
+need thereafter have no fears.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Now make the smoke box, which should be three inches
+deep and of the shape and dimensions shown in Fig. 35. This
+and the smoke-stack can be made of iron, hammered up to
+shape and finished with a brass ring. The smoke-box can
+be screwed on the forward flange or boiler.</p>
+
+<p>The door is drawn open to show the amount of bulge it
+should be hammered to. In the center a hole should be
+drilled through which to pass the screw used to close it,
+which is attached to the loose bar, A. The handle, B, is
+then screwed up tight.</p>
+
+<p>The door is circular and must be large enough to overlap
+the opening about half an inch and have a couple of bright
+iron or brass eyes, C, riveted on to form the hinge.</p>
+
+<p>Next comes the back-pressure valve, Fig 36. A is a front
+view with plate by which it is bolted to the boiler, as at W,
+Fig. 20.</p>
+
+<p>It is very simple to make, and consists of the casting A
+with top and bottom covers and the ball-valve B, which
+ought to be ground with a little emery and oil to fit perfectly.
+It acts in this manner.</p>
+
+<p>The water being forced up C from the pump, raises B and
+passes into the boiler. On the up stroke of pump, the pressure
+is removed from under B and the pressure of steam in
+the boiler causes it to fall back and close the opening entirely,
+preventing any water from passing away from the
+boiler. A small flange can be put on each outer side of the
+boiler near the furnace to support it on bed-plate level with
+smoke box.</p>
+
+<p>The boiler should now be covered with flannel, cut to shape
+and wrapped round the body part and a casing of sheet tin
+put over it and secured by brass bands and small nuts underneath&mdash;as
+shown in Fig. 20.</p>
+
+<p>The steam supply pipe can now be connected with the
+cylinders and it should be made forked as in Fig. 37. A
+leads from steam pipe and branches off to each cylinder,
+where it must be screwed up with white lead.</p>
+
+<p>The exhaust pipes B B should be of larger tubing and bent
+round up the sides of the smoke box so as to be out of the
+way when you have to clean the tubes. A small brass pipe,
+C, must also be passed through the chimney, bent upwards
+and fitted with a tap which should take the steam from
+the top of the boiler and be used as shown at D F Fig. 20.
+This helps to raise steam very quickly.</p>
+
+<p>Fig. 38 is a rear view of the foot plate and shows the necessary
+fittings which you must either make or buy to complete
+the model.</p>
+
+<p>The cocks you might make but the water gauge you must
+buy. A is the furnace door, B two gauge taps, C starting-lever<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>
+handle, D spring balance safety valve, F wind-guard
+with two look-out holes, G steam whistle handle, H pressure
+gauge, N the quadrant and lever for reversing the engine, O
+the rear buffer beam with buffers, P the wheels showing axle,
+R R the springs for same and V the safety-guard rail on
+either side.</p>
+
+<table summary="scaffold" style="min-width: 50%;">
+<tr><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<a href="images/i041large.jpg"><img src="images/i041.jpg" width="200" height="211" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 30.</div>
+</div>
+</td><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<a href="images/i042large.jpg"><img src="images/i042.jpg" width="200" height="145" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 31.</div>
+</div>
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<a href="images/i043large.jpg"><img src="images/i043.jpg" width="200" height="186" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 32.</div>
+</div>
+</td><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<a href="images/i044large.jpg"><img src="images/i044.jpg" width="200" height="205" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 33.</div>
+</div>
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i045large.jpg"><img src="images/i045.jpg" width="400" height="137" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 34.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<a href="images/i046large.jpg"><img src="images/i046.jpg" width="300" height="368" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 35.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<a href="images/i047large.jpg"><img src="images/i047.jpg" width="300" height="308" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 37.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<a href="images/i048large.jpg"><img src="images/i048.jpg" width="300" height="184" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 36.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When these fittings are all complete holes must be drilled
+in rear plate for each piece; they must be firmly screwed in
+place with white lead. The glass tube of the water gauge,
+the stuffing-box, and the gland of the starting lever should
+be closely packed with tallow and cotton wick.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i049large.jpg"><img src="images/i049.jpg" width="400" height="586" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 38.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Next paint the entire model over again and let it dry. We
+give no directions as to colors; use your own taste. After
+the paint is thoroughly dry varnish with the best clear, hard
+varnish and let it dry again.</p>
+
+<p>While it is drying you can be making the rails.</p>
+
+<p>Get some square bar iron, cut it into six-foot lengths, if
+you wish the rails to be portable, and drill a hole in each
+end half an inch deep.</p>
+
+<p>The rails can be joined together at each end by means of a
+piece of wire and kept at a proper distance apart by being
+fastened to pieces of wood placed like sleepers, fastened by
+screws passing through holes drilled in the rails every six
+inches. These sections can be laid end to end, and your
+line be made as long as you wish. If you want a circular
+line, each section must be bent to a portion of a circle; one
+about 30 feet in diameter is suitable for this model.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When finished place your locomotive on the track and get
+up steam. Fill the boiler with water by means of a funnel
+until you see it rise up three parts of the way in the glass
+water-gauge. Then see that all taps are turned off and start
+the fire. Charcoal is the best fuel, as it gives a clear, hot
+fire without much smoke once you start it right.</p>
+
+<p>Try the safety-valve occasionally to see how your steam is
+getting on, and when it begins to form turn on the blast-tap,
+which will soon draw up the fire, and you will presently
+see the pressure rise and show itself in the pressure-gauge.</p>
+
+<p>When the gauge shows 30 lbs. of steam you might start
+the model by turning on the cocks on cylinders until no
+more condensed steam issues from them.</p>
+
+<p>Then shut them off and turn on steam full power and
+watch the engine travel, gradually increasing its speed.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center">CONCLUSION.</p>
+
+
+<p>Let us now bear the conclusion of the whole matter, which
+takes us straight back to where we started, and we again repeat
+if you want to become an engineer make up your mind
+that you will be a good one or none at all.</p>
+
+<p>We have examined the locomotive inside and out, underneath
+and on top, even peering down the smoke-stack,
+crawling into the fire-box, and learning the true science of
+shoveling coal.</p>
+
+<p>What then remains to be told?</p>
+
+<p>Nothing that can be remembered long enough to be of
+any practical use.</p>
+
+<p>There are matters&mdash;dozens of them&mdash;connected with locomotive
+engineering which we have not even alluded to, but
+they are for the most part such as must be learned by actual
+every day experience to be of any use.</p>
+
+<p>We might, perhaps, under three heads speak a few closing
+words. First let us take up</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">SIGNALS,</p>
+
+<p>and post ourselves a bit on that most important subject.</p>
+
+<p>The greater part of an engineer's time while on his engine
+must be spent in the lookout for signals.</p>
+
+<p>Upon this depends not only the safety of every soul on the
+train but his own as well.</p>
+
+<p><i>Never jump at conclusions in the matter of signals.</i></p>
+
+<p>Never assume that because a "distant" signal and all the
+other signals are off the line is clear.</p>
+
+<p>Every engineer should, as far as possible, not only see that
+each signal is off, but he should also cast his eye over the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>
+road in front of him to see whether it <i>should</i> be off. At night
+caution in the matter of signals is even more necessary than
+in daylight. Then the only safety lies in keeping a constant
+lookout.</p>
+
+<p>You must know your road. It is not enough to know
+where the up grades lie and where the downs. You must
+know just how steep the grades are and their length.</p>
+
+<p>Often signals are badly placed and cannot be seen until
+the engine is close upon them.</p>
+
+<p>With this you have nothing to do. Engineers do not place
+signals. Doubtless if they did they would alter the position
+of many of them. All you have to do is to heed the signals,
+no matter how well or how badly they are placed.</p>
+
+<p>To enter into a detailed description of signals until some
+universal system of signaling is adopted, would be but a
+waste of time.</p>
+
+<p>You will have to learn all these things during your apprenticeship;
+they are matters upon which books can give you
+little help.</p>
+
+<p>Presence of mind you must always have if you expect to
+become a good engineer, and courage, too&mdash;plenty of it.
+This brings us to our second head, which we will write</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">"<span class="smcap">Broke Down</span>."</p>
+
+<p>What to do when the engine has broken down?</p>
+
+<p>There comes the tug of war, the time when it will be definitely
+decided whether the engineer is good, bad or indifferent.</p>
+
+<p>Hundreds of lives may depend upon prompt action, thousands
+of dollars' worth of property are in the engineer's hands,
+either to waste or save when the moment of the break down
+comes.</p>
+
+<p>In Mr. S. A. Alexander's excellent treatise entitled "Broke
+Down" is placed in red letters over every page, "Protect
+Yourself from Approaching Trains."</p>
+
+<p>When a break-down occurs, this is the first thought which
+should enter the engineer's mind, and the first act should be
+to carry it out.</p>
+
+<p>There are many causes of a break-down, too many to
+enumerate. In the roundhouse is the place to study break-downs,
+for here, daily, every variety is open to inspection&mdash;broken
+crank-shafts, broken eccentric-rods, eccentric-straps
+and sheaves, broken motion and broken springs.</p>
+
+<p>Of course an engine may be broken, and yet able to run its
+train through. This is an important consideration. Some
+engineers hardly know when they are beaten.</p>
+
+<p>It is a matter of record that a certain engineer, known as
+"Hell-fire Jack," ran his train over a bridge after one side<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>
+had been washed away by a raging flood. Thousands of such
+daring deeds have been accomplished by engineers, but
+"Cautious Jacks" will be better appreciated by the company
+than "Hell-fire Jacks" every time.</p>
+
+<p>Real heroism lies in good judgment and a cool head. Suppose
+that the right hand back gear eccentric-rod breaks.
+"Can I get along in forward gear, after having disconnected
+the rod and the strap?" is the question. The answer is yes,
+and it should be prompt, as all such answers should be when
+the engine breaks down.</p>
+
+<p>It is such readiness as this that makes break-downs but
+a matter of a few moments.</p>
+
+<p>It is also highly necessary that the engineer should ask
+himself "What tools have I upon the engine? What can I
+do with them? Can I find them in the dark? If I run off the
+track in what condition is my screw jack? Will it work
+properly? Have I a ratchet or bar to work it with?"</p>
+
+<p>These are things which should be continually kept in mind.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Air Brakes.</span></p>
+
+<p>The air-brake has changed engine driving materially in the
+last few years, and a word or two concerning it should be said.</p>
+
+<p>The air-brake consists briefly of an air cylinder placed
+beneath each car, which can be operated by the engineer
+from the foot plate, the pressure of the air controlling the
+action of the brakes.</p>
+
+<p>There are two valves to an air-brake, one for ordinary
+stops and the other for sudden stops in case of emergency.</p>
+
+<p>In the first only partial pressure of the confined air is used,
+in the latter the full pressure is employed and the brakes
+brought against the wheels with all force at once.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most important duties of an engineer is to be
+well assured that the air-brakes are in proper working
+order.</p>
+
+<p>After the call for hand brakes has been given, the air
+brakes must not be applied until the hand brakes are released.
+Air and hand brakes should never be used at the
+same time on a car.</p>
+
+<p>When cars having different air pressures are coupled together
+the brakes will work first on that having the highest
+pressure.</p>
+
+<p>Special instruction is needed to fully comprehend the working
+of air brakes.</p>
+
+<p>Here is a speed table which may be useful. We have taken
+the liberty of extracting it from Alexander's "Ready-reference
+for Locomotive Engineers," an excellent hand-book
+with which all candidates for the foot-plate should provide<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>
+themselves. Published by the author, S. A. Alexander,
+York, Pa.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Time and Speed Tables.</span></p>
+
+<p class="center">
+Key: M = Minutes.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">S = Seconds.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">T = 10th of a Second.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<table summary="Time and Speed Tables" style="text-align: center;">
+<tr><td colspan="5">&nbsp;</td><td class="minutes">M</td><td class="seconds">S</td><td class="thousandths">T</td></tr>
+<tr><td>10</td><td>miles</td><td>per</td><td>hour</td><td>is</td><td class="minutes">6.</td><td class="seconds">00</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>to</td><td>1</td><td>mile</td></tr>
+<tr><td>11</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">5.</td><td class="seconds">27</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>12</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">5.</td><td class="seconds">90</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>13</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">4.</td><td class="seconds">37</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>14</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">4.</td><td class="seconds">17</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>15</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">4.</td><td class="seconds">00</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>16</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">3.</td><td class="seconds">45</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>17</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">3.</td><td class="seconds">32</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>18</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">3.</td><td class="seconds">20</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>19</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">3.</td><td class="seconds">09.</td><td class="thousandths">5</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>20</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">3.</td><td class="seconds">00</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>21</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">51.</td><td class="thousandths">5</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>22</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">43.</td><td class="thousandths">5</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>23</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">36.</td><td class="thousandths">5</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>24</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">30</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>25</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">24</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>26</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">18.</td><td class="thousandths">6</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>27</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">13.</td><td class="thousandths">3</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>28</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">08.</td><td class="thousandths">5</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>29</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">04</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>30</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">00</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>31</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">56</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>32</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">52.</td><td class="thousandths">5</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>33</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">49</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>34</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">45.</td><td class="thousandths">6</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>35</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">42.</td><td class="thousandths">6</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>36</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">40</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>37</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">37.</td><td class="thousandths">3</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>38</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">34.</td><td class="thousandths">7</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>39</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">32.</td><td class="thousandths">3</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>40</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">30.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>41</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">27.</td><td class="thousandths">7</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>42</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">25.</td><td class="thousandths">7</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>43</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">23.</td><td class="thousandths">5</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>44</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">21.</td><td class="thousandths">7</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>45</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">20.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>46</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">18.</td><td class="thousandths">2</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>47</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">16.</td><td class="thousandths">6</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>48</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">15.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>49</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">13.</td><td class="thousandths">5</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>50</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">12.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>51</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">10.</td><td class="thousandths">6</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>52</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">09.</td><td class="thousandths">4</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>53</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">07.</td><td class="thousandths">9</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>54</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">06.</td><td class="thousandths">6</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>55</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">05.</td><td class="thousandths">4</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>56</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">04.</td><td class="thousandths">3</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>57</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">03.</td><td class="thousandths">2</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>58</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">02.</td><td class="thousandths">2</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>60</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">00.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>65</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">0.</td><td class="seconds">55.</td><td class="thousandths">3</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>70</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">0.</td><td class="seconds">51.</td><td class="thousandths">4</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>75</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">0.</td><td class="seconds">48.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>80</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">0.</td><td class="seconds">45.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>85</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">0.</td><td class="seconds">42.</td><td class="thousandths">3</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>90</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">0.</td><td class="seconds">40.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>95</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">0.</td><td class="seconds">37.</td><td class="thousandths">9</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>100</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">0.</td><td class="seconds">36.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>
+The boy who aims to become an engineer should not waste
+his school hours in idle dreaming or in too much sport.</p>
+
+<p>Improve every moment you can spare from other duties or
+needed exercise in studying arithmetic, geometry, algebra
+and mechanical engineering. A little knowledge as a
+draughtsman will also be a great help.</p>
+
+<p>Above all, get some larger manual on locomotive engineering
+and read and re-read it until you know its contents by
+heart.</p>
+
+<p>Remember that there is no limit to knowledge in any direction.</p>
+
+<p>The time can never come to any engineer when he can
+truthfully say to himself, "I know it all," and to his life-long
+study write</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i050large.jpg"><img src="images/i050.jpg" width="400" height="121" alt="THE END." /></a>
+</div>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2><span class="small">THE LARGEST AND BEST LIBRARY.</span><br />
+PLUCK AND LUCK.</h2>
+
+<p class="center"><b>Colored Covers. 32 Pages. All Kinds of Good
+Stories. Price 5 Cents. Issued Weekly.
+Read List Below.</b></p>
+
+
+<table summary="list">
+<tr><th>No.</th></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">1</td><td class="tdl">Dick Decker, the Brave Young Fireman       </td><td class="tdr">by Ex Fire Chief Warden</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">2</td><td class="tdl">The Two Boy Brokers; or, From Messenger Boys to Millionaires      </td><td class="tdr">by a Retired Banker</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">3</td><td class="tdl">Little Lou, the Pride of the Continental Army. A Story of the American Revolution       </td><td class="tdr">by General Jas. A. Gordon</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">4</td><td class="tdl">Railroad Ralph, the Boy Engineer        </td><td class="tdr">by Jas. C. Merritt</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">5</td><td class="tdl">The Boy Pilot of Lake Michigan        </td><td class="tdr">by Capt. Thos. H. Wilson</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">6</td><td class="tdl">Joe Wiley, the Young Temperance Lecturer       </td><td class="tdr">by Jno. B. Dowd</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">7</td><td class="tdl">The Little Swamp Fox. A Tale of General Marion and His Men       </td><td class="tdr">by General Jas. A. Gordon</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">8</td><td class="tdl">Young Grizzly Adams, the Wild Beast Tamer. A True Story of Circus Life       </td><td class="tdr">by Hal Standish</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">9</td><td class="tdl">North Pole Nat; or, The Secret of the Frozen Deep       </td><td class="tdr">by Capt. Thos. H. Wilson</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">10</td><td class="tdl">Little Deadshot, the Pride of the Trappers       </td><td class="tdr">by An Old Scout</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">11</td><td class="tdl">Liberty Hose; or, The Pride of Plattsville      </td><td class="tdr">by Ex Fire Chief Warden</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">12</td><td class="tdl">Engineer Steve, the Prince of the Rail        </td><td class="tdr">by Jas. C. Merritt</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">13</td><td class="tdl">Whistling Walt, the Champion Spy. A Story of the American Revolution       </td><td class="tdr">by General Jas. A. Gordon</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">14</td><td class="tdl">Lost in the Air; or, Over Land and Sea       </td><td class="tdr">by Allyn Draper</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">15</td><td class="tdl">The Little Demon; or, Plotting Against the Czar      </td><td class="tdr">by Howard Austin</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">16</td><td class="tdl">Fred Farrell, the Barkeeper's Son        </td><td class="tdr">by Jno. B. Dowd</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">17</td><td class="tdl">Slippery Steve, the Cunning Spy of the Revolution      </td><td class="tdr">by General Jas. A. Gordon</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">18</td><td class="tdl">Fred Flame, the Hero of Greystone No. 1      </td><td class="tdr">by Ex Fire Chief Warden</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">19</td><td class="tdl">Harry Dare; or, A New York Boy in the Navy        </td><td class="tdr">by Col. Ralph Fenton</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">20</td><td class="tdl">Jack Quick, the Boy Engineer        </td><td class="tdr">by Jas. C. Merritt</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">21</td><td class="tdl">Doublequick, the King Harpooner; or, The Wonder of the Whalers       </td><td class="tdr">by Capt. Thos. H. Wilson</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">22</td><td class="tdl">Rattling Rube, the Jolly Scout and Spy. A Story of the Revolution      </td><td class="tdr">by General Jas. A. Gordon</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">23</td><td class="tdl">In the Czar's Service; or, Dick Sherman in Russia      </td><td class="tdr">by Howard Austin</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">24</td><td class="tdl">Ben o' the Bowl; or, The Road to Ruin       </td><td class="tdr">by Jno. B. Dowd</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">25</td><td class="tdl">Kit Carson, the King of Scouts      </td><td class="tdr">by an Old Scout</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">26</td><td class="tdl">The School Boy Explorers; or, Among the Ruins of Yucatan       </td><td class="tdr">by Howard Austin</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">27</td><td class="tdl">The Wide Awakes; or, Burke Halliday, the Pride of the Volunteers       </td><td class="tdr">by Ex Fire Chief Warden</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">28</td><td class="tdl">The Frozen Deep; or, Two Years in the Ice      </td><td class="tdr">by Capt. Thos. H. Wilson</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">29</td><td class="tdl">The Swamp Rats; or, The Boys Who Fought for Washington      </td><td class="tdr">by Gen. Jas. A. Gordon</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">30</td><td class="tdl">Around the World on Cheek        </td><td class="tdr">by Howard Austin</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">31</td><td class="tdl">Bushwhacker Ben; or, The Union Boys of Tennessee       </td><td class="tdr">by Col. Ralph Fenton</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>For sale by all newsdealers, or sent to any address on receipt of price, 5
+cents per copy&mdash;6 copies for 25 cents. Address</p>
+
+
+<p class="center large">FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, 29 West 26th St. N. Y.</p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2>GOLD! GOLD! GOLD!<br />
+
+<span class="large">Young Klondike.</span></h2>
+
+<p class="center large"><b>Containing Stories of a Gold Seeker.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center huge"><b>PRICE 5 CENTS.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center large"><b>Colored Covers.</b></p>
+
+
+<table summary="List">
+<tr><th>No.</th></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">1</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike; or, Off For the Land of Gold.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">2</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Claim; or, Nine Golden Nuggets.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">3</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's First Million; or, His Great Strike on El Dorado Creek.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">4</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike and the Claim Agents; or, Fighting the Land Sharks of Dawson City.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">5</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's New Diggings; or, The Great Gold Find on Owl Creek.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">6</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Chase; or, The Gold Pirates of the Yukon.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">7</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Golden Island; or, Half a Million in Dust.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">8</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Seven Strikes; or, The Gold Hunters of High Rock.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">9</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Journey to Juneau; or, Guarding a Million in Gold.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">10</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Lucky Camp; or, Working the Unknown's Claim.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">11</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Lost Million; or, The Mine Wreckers of Gold Creek.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">12</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Gold Syndicate; or, Breaking the Brokers of Dawson City.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">13</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Golden Eagle; or, Working a Hidden Mine.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">14</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Trump Card; or, The Rush to Rocky River.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">15</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Arctic Trail; or, Lost in a Sea of Ice.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">16</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's New Bonanza; or, The Gold Diggers of French Gulch.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">17</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Death Trap; or, Lost Underground.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">18</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Fight for a Claim; or, The Boomers of Raccoon Creek.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">19</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Deep Sea Diggings; or, Working at the Mouth of the Yukon.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">20</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Winter Camp; or, Mining Under the Snow.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>For sale by all newsdealers, or sent to any address on receipt of
+price, 5 cents per copy&mdash;6 copies for 25 cents. Address</p>
+
+
+<p class="center large">FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,<br />
+28 West 26th St.,        New York.
+</p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="Work_and_Win" id="Work_and_Win">Work and Win.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center large"><b>An Interesting Weekly for Young America.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center large"><b>BRIGHT, CATCHY STORIES.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center large">Beautiful Colored Covers.</p>
+
+<p class="center large">32 Pages. Price 5 Cents.</p>
+
+<p>Don't fail to read about <span class="smcap">Fred Fearnot's</span>
+Wonderful Adventures in <span class="smcap">School</span>, at <span class="smcap">College</span>,
+on the <span class="smcap">Stage</span>, <span class="smcap">Out West</span> and as a
+<span class="smcap">Detective</span>. They are <span class="smcap">Bright</span>, <span class="smcap">Interesting</span>
+and <span class="smcap">Fascinating</span>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">COMPLETE LIST.</p>
+
+<table summary="COMPLETE LIST">
+<tr><td class="tdr">1</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot; or, School Days at Avon.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">2</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot, Detective; or, Balking a Desperate Game.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">3</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Daring Rescue; or, A Hero in Spite of Himself.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">4</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Narrow Escape; or, The Plot That Failed.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">5</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot at Avon Again; or, His Second Term at School.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">6</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Pluck; or, His Race to Save a Life.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">7</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot as an Actor; or, His Fame Before the Footlights.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">8</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot at Sea; or, A Chase Across the Ocean.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">9</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot Out West; or, Adventures With the Cowboys.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">10</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Great Peril; or, Running Down the Counterfeiters.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">11</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Double Victory; or, Killing Two Birds With One Stone.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">12</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Game Finish; or, His Bicycle Race to Save a Million.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">13</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Great Run; or, An Engineer For a Week.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">14</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Twenty Rounds; or, His Fight to Save His Honor.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">15</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Engine Company; or, Brave Work as a Fireman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">16</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Good Work; or, Helping a Friend in Need.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>For sale by all newsdealers or sent to any address on receipt
+of price, 5 cents per copy, or 6 copies for 25 cents.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center large">FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,<br />
+29 West 26th St.,           New York.
+</p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2>Secret Service.<br />
+
+<span class="small">Old and Young King Brady, Detectives.</span></h2>
+
+<p class="center huge">32 Pages of Great Detective Stories.</p>
+
+<p class="center large"><b>Handsomely Decorated Covers.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center large"><b>Issued Weekly. Price 5 Cents.</b></p>
+
+<p>Containing Stories of Old King Brady, the
+Great Detective, assisted by Young King
+Brady, his faithful young pupil.</p>
+
+<p>Embracing the most daring adventures,
+startling scenes and hairbreadth escapes ever
+published.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">READ THE FOLLOWING LIST.</p>
+
+<table summary="list">
+<tr><td>1.</td><td class="tdl">The Black Band; or, The Two King Bradys Against a Hard Gang.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>2.</td><td class="tdl">Told by the Ticker; or, The Two King Bradys on a Wall Street Case.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>3.</td><td class="tdl">The Bradys After a Million; or, Their Chase to Save an Heiress.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>4.</td><td class="tdl">The Bradys' Great Bluff; or, A Bunco Game that Failed to Work.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>5.</td><td class="tdl">In and Out; or, The Two King Bradys on a Lively Chase.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>For sale by all newsdealers or sent postpaid on receipt of
+price, 5 cents per copy, by</p>
+
+
+<p class="center large">FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,<br />
+29 West 26th St.,          New York.<br />
+</p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="Handsome_Harry" id="Handsome_Harry">Handsome Harry.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center"><b>Stories of Land and Sea.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center large"><b>Issued Weekly. - 32 pages.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center large">HANDSOMELY EMBELLISHED COVER.</p>
+
+<p class="center large">THE MOST ENTERTAINING AND
+EXCITING LIBRARY PUBLISHED</p>
+
+<p>Read about HANDSOME HARRY, <span class="smcap">the
+Brave Commander</span>.</p>
+
+<p>Read about CHING-CHING, <span class="smcap">the Tricky
+Chinee</span>.</p>
+
+<p>Read about SAMSON, <span class="smcap">the Gigantic
+Negro</span>.</p>
+
+<p class="center large"><b>Price 5 Cents. Price 5 Cents.</b></p>
+
+
+<p class="center">LIST OF NUMBERS:</p>
+
+<table summary="list">
+<tr><td>1.</td><td class="tdl">Handsome Harry of the Fighting Belvedere.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>2.</td><td class="tdl">Handsome Harry's Peril; or, Saved by His Trusty Crew.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>3.</td><td class="tdl">Handsome Harry's Chase; or, On the Track of the "Vulture."</td></tr>
+<tr><td>4.</td><td class="tdl">Handsome Harry in Africa; or, A Land Hunt for His Foe.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>5.</td><td class="tdl">Handsome Harry and the Slaver; or, Adventures With Friends and Foes.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>If you cannot procure any numbers of Handsome Harry from
+your newsdealer, send the price, 5 cents per copy, to us and we
+will send any copies ordered by return mail. Address</p>
+
+
+<p class="center large">FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,<br />
+29 West 26th St.,              New York.<br />
+</p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="OUR_10_CENT_HAND_BOOKS" id="OUR_10_CENT_HAND_BOOKS">OUR 10 CENT HAND BOOKS.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center"><i>USEFUL, INSTRUCTIVE AND AMUSING.</i></p>
+
+<p>Containing valuable information on almost every subject such as <b>Writing</b>,
+<b>Speaking</b>, <b>Dancing</b>, <b>Cooking</b>; also, <b>Rules of Etiquette</b>, <b>The Art
+of Ventriloquism</b>, <b>Gymnastic Exercises</b>, and <b>The Science of Self-Defense</b>,
+<b>etc.</b>, <b>etc.</b></p>
+
+
+<table summary="list">
+<tr><td class="tdr">1</td><td class="tdl">NAPOLEON'S ORACULUM AND DREAM BOOK.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">2</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO TRICKS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">3</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO FLIRT.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">4</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DANCE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">5</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO MAKE LOVE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">6</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME AN ATHLETE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">7</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO KEEP BIRDS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">8</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A SCIENTIST.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">9</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A VENTRILOQUIST.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">10</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BOX.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">11</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO WRITE LOVE LETTERS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">12</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO WRITE LETTERS TO LADIES.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">13</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO IT; OR, BOOK OF ETIQUETTE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">14</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO MAKE CANDY.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">15</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME RICH.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">16</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">17</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DRESS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">18</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME BEAUTIFUL.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">19</td><td class="tdl">FRANK TOUSEY'S U. S. DISTANCE TABLES, POCKET COMPANION AND GUIDE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">20</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO ENTERTAIN AN EVENING PARTY.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">21</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO HUNT AND FISH.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">22</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO SECOND SIGHT.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">23</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO EXPLAIN DREAMS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">24</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO WRITE LETTERS TO GENTLEMEN.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">25</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A GYMNAST.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">26</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO ROW, SAIL AND BUILD A BOAT.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">27</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO RECITE AND BOOK OF RECITATIONS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">28</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO TELL FORTUNES.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">29</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME AN INVENTOR.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">30</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO COOK.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">31</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A SPEAKER.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">32</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO RIDE A BICYCLE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">33</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BEHAVE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">34</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO FENCE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">35</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO PLAY GAMES.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">36</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO SOLVE CONUNDRUMS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">37</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO KEEP HOUSE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">38</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME YOUR OWN DOCTOR.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">39</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO RAISE DOGS, POULTRY, PIGEONS AND RABBITS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">40</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO MAKE AND SET TRAPS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">41</td><td class="tdl">THE BOYS OF NEW YORK END MEN'S JOKE BOOK.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">42</td><td class="tdl">THE BOYS OF NEW YORK STUMP SPEAKER.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">43</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A MAGICIAN.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">44</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO WRITE IN AN ALBUM.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">45</td><td class="tdl">THE BOYS OF NEW YORK MINSTREL GUIDE AND JOKE BOOK.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">46</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO MAKE AND USE ELECTRICITY.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">47</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">48</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BUILD AND SAIL CANOES.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">49</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DEBATE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">50</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO STUFF BIRDS AND ANIMALS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">51</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO TRICKS WITH CARDS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">52</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO PLAY CARDS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">53</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO WRITE LETTERS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">54</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO KEEP AND MANAGE PETS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">55</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO COLLECT STAMPS AND COINS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">56</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">57</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO MAKE MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">58</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A DETECTIVE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">59</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO MAKE A MAGIC LANTERN.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">60</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A PHOTOGRAPHER.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">61</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A BOWLER.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">62</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A WEST POINT MILITARY CADET.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">63</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A NAVAL CADET.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">64</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO MAKE ELECTRICAL MACHINES.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">65</td><td class="tdl">MULDOON'S JOKES.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">66</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO PUZZLES.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">67</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO ELECTRICAL TRICKS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">68</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO CHEMICAL TRICKS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">69</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO SLEIGHT OF HAND.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">70</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO MAKE MAGIC TOYS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">71</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO MECHANICAL TRICKS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">72</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO SIXTY TRICKS WITH CARDS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">73</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO TRICKS WITH NUMBERS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">74</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO WRITE LETTERS CORRECTLY.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">75</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A CONJURER.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">76</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO TELL FORTUNES BY THE HAND.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">77</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO FORTY TRICKS WITH CARDS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">78</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO THE BLACK ART.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">79</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME AN ACTOR.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>All the above books are for sale by newsdealers throughout the United States and
+Canada, or they will be sent, post-paid, to your address, on receipt of 10c. each.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Send Your Name and Address for Our Latest Illustrated Catalogue.</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="large"><b>FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,</b></span><br />
+
+<b>29 WEST 26th STREET,</b>     NEW YORK.<br />
+</p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="Transcribers_Notes" id="Transcribers_Notes">Transcriber's Notes:</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The Table of Contents was added by the transcriber.</p>
+
+<p>Images may be clicked to view larger versions.</p>
+
+<p>Some inconsistent punctuation has been normalized throughout the book.</p>
+
+<p>Some inconsistent hyphenation (e.g. smokestack vs. smoke-stack) has been retained.</p>
+
+<p>Some illustrations in this book appear to have been lifted from
+Locomotive Engine Driving: A Practical Manual for Engineers in Charge
+of Locomotive Engines by Michael Reynolds (London: Crosby Lockwood,
+1888).</p>
+
+<p>Fractions have been normalized to the form X-Y/Z.</p>
+
+<p>Page 5, changed "locomotiive" to "locomotive."</p>
+
+<p>Page 7, changed "Engilsh" to "English."</p>
+
+<p>Page 8, changed "clumsey" to "clumsy" and "prise" to "prize."</p>
+
+<p>Page 16, changed "guage" to "gauge."</p>
+
+<p>Page 17, changed "will came" to "will come."</p>
+
+<p>Page 19, changed "where on can" to "where one can."</p>
+
+<p>Page 21, changed "gain" to "gains."</p>
+
+<p>Page 22, changed "reponsibility" to "responsibility."</p>
+
+<p>Page 24, changed "read then" to "read them."</p>
+
+<p>Page 27, changed "thinest" to "thinnest."</p>
+
+<p>Page 29, changed "guage" to "gauge" (twice) and "at at" to "at."</p>
+
+<p>Page 34, changed "undestand" to "understand."</p>
+
+<p>Page 51, changed "shown it Fig. 35" to "shown in Fig. 35" and "llittle" to "little."</p>
+
+<p>Page 56, changed "definately" to "definitely."</p>
+
+<p>Page 57, changed "air-brakes consists" to "air-brake consists."</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44604 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
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+status under the laws that apply to them.
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #44604 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/44604)
diff --git a/old/44604-8.txt b/old/44604-8.txt
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, How to Become an Engineer, by Frank W. Doughty
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: How to Become an Engineer
+
+
+Author: Frank W. Doughty
+
+
+
+Release Date: January 6, 2014  [eBook #44604]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Demian Katz and the Online Distributed Proofreading
+Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by
+the Digital Library of the Falvey Memorial Library, Villanova University
+(http://digital.library.villanova.edu)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 44604-h.htm or 44604-h.zip:
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/44604/44604-h/44604-h.htm)
+      or
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/44604/44604-h.zip)
+
+
+      Images of the original pages are available through the
+      Digital Library of the Falvey Memorial Library,
+      Villanova University. See
+      http://digital.library.villanova.edu/Item/vudl:267659
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+      Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
+
+      Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=).
+
+
+
+
+
+HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.
+
+Containing Full Instructions How to Proceed in
+   Order to Become a Locomotive Engineer;
+    Also Directions for Building a Model
+      Locomotive; together with a Full
+        Description of Everything an
+            Engineer Should Know.
+
+Profusely Illustrated.
+
+BY AN OLD ENGINEER ON THE NEW YORK CENTRAL
+RAILROAD.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+New York:
+Frank Tousey, Publisher
+29 West 26th Street.
+
+Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1898, by
+Frank Tousey,
+in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D.C.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+  CHAPTER I.   HISTORICAL.
+  CHAPTER II.  DESCRIPTION OF THE LOCOMOTIVE.
+  CHAPTER III. HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.
+  CHAPTER IV.  DUTIES OF AN ENGINEER.
+  CHAPTER V.   HOW TO RUN A TRAIN.
+  CHAPTER VI.  HOW TO BUILD A MODEL LOCOMOTIVE.
+  CHAPTER VII. CONCLUSION.
+
+
+
+
+How to Become an Engineer.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+HISTORICAL.
+
+
+To begin a subject properly you must begin at the beginning.
+
+Boys who don't like history need not read this chapter, for in it we
+tell how the steam engine began, and if it never had begun, you know,
+there would never have been any engineers, nor any necessity for
+writing this book.
+
+For two or three generations we have had the story of James Watt told
+us; how when a boy and watching his mother's tea-kettle one day he saw
+the steam lift the lid, and that suggested the idea that if a little
+steam could lift the lid of a kettle, a great deal would lift still
+heavier weights and revolutionize the world.
+
+Now they tell us that Watt was not the first one to have this idea by
+several, that it was first suggested by the Marquis of Worcester, in
+his book called the "Century of Inventions," as "a way to drive up
+water by fire," A. D. 1663.
+
+This was about a hundred years before Watt came on deck, but the
+marquis never put his idea into practice, and Watt did, so to the
+latter the credit belongs.
+
+Here are a few dates:
+
+Watt's invention of the separate condenser, 1765; Watt's first patent,
+1769; Watt's first working engine introduced into a manufactory, 1775;
+first steam engine erected in Ireland, 1791; first steamboat run on the
+Hudson, 1797; first steamboat abroad, 1801.
+
+First regular steamboat ever run was from Albany to New York. The name
+of the boat was the North River, her builder was Robert Fulton, and she
+made the passage in 33 hours.
+
+The first railroad was built in England, in 1811.
+
+The first ocean steamer was the Savannah, an American craft of 350
+tons, which sailed from New York for Liverpool, July 15, 1819, making
+the voyage in 26 days.
+
+Such were the early beginnings of steam.
+
+There are three principal kinds of engineers, locomotive, steamboat and
+stationary.
+
+In this little book we propose to deal mainly with the duties of a
+locomotive engineer.
+
+If one is a good locomotive engineer he can easily learn to manage
+the engine of a steamboat; and if he is skilled in either of these
+particulars he will have no difficulty with the biggest stationary
+engine ever built.
+
+[Illustration: THE FIRST LOCOMOTIVE.]
+
+The work of the different engineers differs only in detail, not in kind.
+
+Let us now glance at the history of the steam horse, which has done
+more than any other one thing to revolutionize the world.
+
+Be very sure that the locomotive, with its pistons, its spinning
+drive wheels, its polished steel and shining brass, did not come into
+existence all at once.
+
+By no means. Like everything else in the way of mechanical invention
+that attains greatness, the locomotive had an insignificant beginning
+to reach which we shall be obliged to get back somewhere about the
+middle of the last century, for then it was that the desire for faster
+traveling than horses can furnish seems to have had its birth.
+
+The first attempt at a railway seems to have been at Colebrook Dale,
+England, a spot celebrated for having the first iron bridge in the
+world--where a small iron road was constructed in connection with some
+mines; a horse furnished the motive power here.
+
+The first railroad then was without a locomotive, and, strangely enough
+the first locomotive was without a railroad on which to run.
+
+The first locomotive made its appearance in France. It was simply a
+huge tea kettle on wheels, and was built by Joseph Cugnot at Paris in
+the year 1769.
+
+It is the custom of English writers to ignore Cugnot's invention, and
+claim for themselves the origin of the locomotive; but that is only a
+pleasant way the English usually have.
+
+Cugnot's locomotive actually existed though, and was undoubtedly the
+first. It was operated by means of two bronze cylinders, into which the
+steam passed through a tube from the boiler--escaping through another
+tube.
+
+The boiler was fastened on the front of the car, which moved on three
+wheels--the steam acted only on the foremost wheel.
+
+The speed of Cugnot's locomotive was about three miles an hour. On the
+first trial it ran into a building and was broken to pieces.
+
+In 1784 the famous Watt patented a steam locomotive engine in England,
+which, however, never was put to use.
+
+In 1802, Trevethick and Vivian patented a locomotive, which, in 1804,
+traveled at the rate of five miles an hour, drawing behind it a load of
+ten tons of coal.
+
+Several other "traveling engines," as they were then styled, were
+invented by other mechanical engineers with only moderate success, it
+being reserved for Stephenson, in 1811, to build the first locomotive
+that should prove of practical use.
+
+About this time a man named Thomas Gray, of Nottingham, England,
+brought upon himself the contempt and ridicule of the whole English
+nation by pushing forward the idea of the locomotive in connection with
+coal mines.
+
+[Illustration: OLD NO. 1.]
+
+"It is all very well to spend money on these railway schemes," said
+a member of parliament about that time referring to Gray's projects,
+"it will do some good to the poor, but I will eat all the coals your
+railways will ever carry."
+
+127,000,000 tons were carried recently in one year, on English
+railroads alone. What a tough time this parliamentary slow coach would
+have had to swallow all that!
+
+The first practical locomotive in the world--Stephenson's invention,
+was Old No. 1, which pulled the first regular train on the Stockton and
+Darlington R. R. on Tuesday, September 27, 1825.
+
+Old No. 1 cost $2,500 to build. It was a very clumsy affair; nothing
+better, in fact, than a big boiler on four wheels, which were moved by
+great levers worked by pistons from the top of the machine.
+
+[Illustration: THE ROCKET.]
+
+Old No. 1 has been preserved, and was, in the year 1859, placed upon a
+pedestal in that English town of Darlington as a public memorial of the
+beginning of the railway.
+
+No sooner had the Stockton and Darlington R. R. proved itself a success
+than all England was in arms against it. Here are some of the absurd
+objections urged against railroads, taken from the newspapers of the
+day.
+
+Steam horses were "contrary to nature;" they were "damaging to good
+morals and religion;" the smoke of the locomotive would "obscure the
+sun, and thereby ruin the crops." Farmyards and farmhouses would be
+burned by their sparks; the clanking, puffing locomotive would have
+such an effect on the mind as to drive people crazy (this was backed up
+by certificates from a dozen doctors); locomotives would cause springs
+to dry up and fields to become sterile; they would create great chasms
+by constantly running over the same ground.
+
+What twaddle!
+
+Yet all their objections were made in good faith, and we have by no
+means selected the most absurd.
+
+Old No. 1. proving too clumsy, a lighter locomotive was soon after
+built by Stephenson, called the "Rocket," which we illustrate. It won a
+prize of $1,500 in 1829, and is still preserved in the great locomotive
+works at Newcastle-on-Tyne, England.
+
+The first railroad in America was built from the granite quarries of
+Quincy, Mass., to the Neponset river, a few miles distant.
+
+Peter Cooper built one of the first American locomotives. It ran on the
+Baltimore and Ohio R. R., and was called the Tom Thumb.
+
+The boiler of the Tom Thumb was built of gun barrels and shaped like a
+huge bottle standing upright upon a simple platform car.
+
+Such was the beginning of the locomotive.
+
+In Great Britain alone over 600,000,000 people are annually drawn by
+locomotives.
+
+Add to these figures, which represent only a small island, the persons
+drawn by locomotives in America, Europe, and other parts of the world,
+and the number becomes stupendous almost beyond belief.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+DESCRIPTION OF THE LOCOMOTIVE.
+
+
+In order to become an engineer, the first thing necessary is to gain a
+thorough understanding of the peculiarly complicated machine which it
+is the duty of engineers to control.
+
+This is of the highest importance, and a careful study of this chapter
+and the diagrams accompanying it will be of great assistance to anybody
+who contemplates becoming an engineer.
+
+There are locomotives and locomotives, all built on the same general
+plan, but varying in details according to the ideas of their builders,
+and the class of work which they are expected to perform.
+
+[Illustration: AN AMERICAN LOCOMOTIVE WITH TWO DRIVING WHEELS.]
+
+Thus for elevated roads and short surface lines, devoted principally to
+passenger travel, locomotives of light capacity are employed; costing
+less at the start, and being less expensive to run.
+
+[Illustration: AMERICAN LOCOMOTIVE WITH FOUR DRIVING WHEELS.]
+
+The "dummy" is even a grade below these, being practically a stationary
+engine set on a car with driving wheels attached.
+
+[Illustration: OUTSIDE VIEW OF LOCOMOTIVE.]
+
+[Illustration: INSIDE VIEW OF LOCOMOTIVE.]
+
+In America our locomotives are built with long boilers and have a
+general trim appearance.
+
+Some have two driving wheels, others, still longer, have four. We
+illustrate both of them.
+
+English locomotives present a clumsy appearance alongside the American.
+
+For us to attempt to decide which is the best, would be the height of
+presumption.
+
+Certain it is, however, that English locomotives do run at a greater
+average speed than those in the United States.
+
+We will now proceed to describe by tabular arrangement, an English
+locomotive.
+
+This description will practically describe the American locomotive as
+well.
+
+We cannot enter into a detailed description of both for want of space,
+and select therefore the machine which has attained to the highest
+speed.
+
+We will first look at the outside of the locomotive.
+
+1, 2, 3, Barrel of Boiler. 6, Smoke-box. 22, Smoke Stack. 32, Spring
+balance.
+
+33, Whistle. 34, Dome. 64, Exhaust pipe. 70, Cab. 85, Brake blocks. 87,
+Life guards. 88, Trailing axle and wheel. 59, Heading axle and wheel.
+54, Driving axle. O, Speed indicator. P, Splasher. S, Sand-box. T,
+Tool-box. V, Safety valve. W, Balance-wheel.
+
+Let us now take an inside view of the locomotive. Compare the numbers
+carefully with the cut, and take time to think what you are doing,
+otherwise don't read this part at all.
+
+1, 2, 3, Rings arranged telescopically, forming barrel of boiler.
+4, Solid angle-iron ring. 5, Tube plate. 6, Smoke box. 7, Shell, or
+covering plate. 8, Foundation ring. 9, Throat plate. 10, Back plate.
+11, Fire door. 12, Covering plate of inside fire-box. 13, Tube plate.
+14, Back plate. 15, Stays. 16, Mouth-piece. 17, Stays from inside
+fire-box to shell plate. 18, Palm stays. 19, Tubes. 20, Smoke-box door.
+21, Pinching screw. 22, Chimney. 23, Chimney cap. 24, Blast pipe. 25,
+Top of blast pipe. 26, Balance weight. 27, Wheel spokes. 28, Front
+buffer. 29, Mud plug. 30, Safety valve. 31, Safety lever. 32, Spring
+balance. 33, Whistle. 34, Dome. 35, Regulator. 36, Steam pipes. 37,
+Elbow pipe. 38, Brick arch. 39, Fire bars. 40, Ash pan. 41, Front
+damper. 42, Back damper. 43, Frame plate. 44, Iron buffer beam (front).
+45, Iron buffer beam (back). 46, (See half width plan) cylinder. 47,
+Cylinder posts, valve. 48, Valve chest. 49, Steel motion plate. 50,
+Horn blocks. 51, Axle boxes. 52, Slide bars. 53, Connecting rod. 54,
+Crank shaft. 55, Crank shaft, big end of. 56, Crank shaft, arm of. 57,
+Expansion link. 58, Weigh-bar shaft. 59, Valve spindle. 60, Valve rod
+guide. (See half width plan). 61, Pump. 62, Delivery pipe. 63, Field
+pipe. 64, Exhaust pipe. 65, Volute spring. 66, Draw-bar hook. 67, Lamp
+iron. 68, Oil cup. 69, Oil pipes. 70, Cab. 71, Regulator handle. 72,
+Reversing lever. 73, Draw-bar. 74, Draw-pin. 75, Steam-brake cylinder.
+76, Hand-brake. 77, Sand-rod. 78, Front damper. 79, Back damper. 80,
+Trailing wheel. 81, Driving wheel. 82, Leading wheel. 83, Spring. 84,
+Hand rail. 85, Brake blocks. 86, Waste water-cocks. 87, Life guard. 88,
+Railing axle. 89, Leading axle. Z, Lead plug.
+
+43, Frame plate from end to end of engine. 44, Iron buffer-beam. 46,
+Cylinders. 50, Horn block, to carry axle-box and brass. 51, Axle-box
+and brass. 52, Slide bars. 53, Connecting-rod. 54, Driving axle. 55,
+Big end of driving axle. 56, Arm of driving axle. 59, Valve-spindle.
+60, Valve-rod guide. 61, Pump. 76, Hand brake. 85, Brake blocks. 88,
+Trailing axle. 89, Leading axle. 90, Piston rod. 91, Piston head, held
+on the rod by a brass nut. 92, Backway eccentric rod. 93, Frontway
+eccentric rod. 94, Eccentric Straps. 95, Eccentric sheaves. 96, Tire.
+97, Lip on tire. 98, Brake irons. 99, Foot plating. 100, Transverse
+stay. A, Water space between inside and outside fire boxes. B,
+Slide-block with end of pump-ram screwed into the end. C, Link motion
+(see 57, inside view). D, Slide valve rod, working guide. H, Inside
+journal, showing how the axle is supported inside of frame plates. I,
+Cross-head, solid, with piston rod.
+
+[Illustration: UNDERNEATH THE LOCOMOTIVE--HALF WIDTH PLAN.]
+
+15, stays in walls of fire-boxes. 18, stays from crown plate to
+covering plate. 19, tubes. 23, smoke-stack. 40, ash-pan. 54, crank
+shaft. 55, big end of crank-shaft. 56, arm of big end. 34, dome.
+
+[Illustration: IN FRONT OF THE LOCOMOTIVE CROSS-SECTION.]
+
+A, water space. F, nave of wheel. P, P, splashers over driving wheels.
+R, right side of engine. L, left side of engine.
+
+75, steam brake handle. 33, whistle handle. 23, smoke stack. K, K,
+weather glasses. O, speed indicator. E, conductor's bell. N, oil for
+cylinder. X, blower handle. R, right side of engine. L, left side of
+engine. M, M, gauge glasses.
+
+
+SOME POINTS ABOUT THE LOCOMOTIVE.
+
+Here are a few interesting points about this particular locomotive
+which we have just been describing.
+
+It is a single engine on six wheels--which are well distributed, with a
+large boiler of abundant steam generating power with cylinders of great
+capacity, and driving wheels of moderate diameter.
+
+It is accompanied by a tender on six wheels, capable of holding a
+supply of 2,520 gallons of water, and 40 cwt. of coal.
+
+Notwithstanding its great capacity, this tender is so low that a tall
+man may stand on top of the coal without fear of being knocked down by
+bridges.
+
+There are over 47 tons of metal in the locomotive and tender.
+
+When they are in full working order the gross weight with water and
+fuel amounts to 59 tons.
+
+This locomotive drew its first train 87 miles in 1 hour and 50 minutes.
+
+
+DIFFERENCES IN LOCOMOTIVES.
+
+It is an old saying and a true one that no two locomotives are ever
+alike, any more than two men are ever alike.
+
+The difference is due not so much to the materials of which the
+locomotive is built as to the method in which they are put together,
+for no two engines were ever put together geometrically alike.
+
+They may differ in some simple matter. It may be in the casting of the
+cylinders, in the quality of the copper of the fire box, in the valves
+or in the smoke stack. Whatever the difference may be there is still
+always a difference which is bound to affect the running qualities
+either for better or for worse.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.
+
+
+The boy who aims to become an engineer, if he desires success, must
+make up his mind to two things.
+
+First, that he will, all his life, have plenty of hard work.
+
+Second, that he will, in spite of all obstacles become a good engineer.
+
+A boy who looks forward to the honorable calling should be of robust
+health and perfect physically. If these conditions do not exist, he
+should abandon the thought at once, and turn his attention to something
+else.
+
+There is no royal road to engineering any more than there is to any
+other honorable calling.
+
+A position must first be obtained in the round house as general helper.
+
+For a time the candidate must content himself with doing chores,
+cleaning up and any odd jobs which are given him to do.
+
+At this stage of the game he must cultivate habits of observation, be
+an attentive listener and try to understand and remember the "engine
+talk," that is going on about him.
+
+Everything he learns in this way is going to be of service later on.
+
+For the first few months, unless he is fortunate enough to gain favor
+in the eyes of some obliging engineer, no one is going to stop to
+explain matters and he need not expect it. Nevertheless there are a
+thousand and one little things that he can pick up if he is shrewd, all
+of which will come in play later on.
+
+When the locomotive is taken out watch how they do it. When it comes in
+keep your eyes open for points, and you will be sure to get them. When
+it breaks down and comes in for repairs then is the very time of all
+others to be on hand if you can and watch how they fix it.
+
+Every day will bring its own information--the boy's work is to watch
+and remember, but he must not ask too many questions, and never any at
+improper times, unless he desires the ill-will of everybody in the yard.
+
+By and bye he will be made an oiler, put to cleaning the big iron horse
+and other work of similar sort.
+
+After a time he will slip into a fireman's job, and then he must
+understand that his chance has come. Now all depends upon himself.
+
+Make friends with your engineer while you are acting as fireman, and
+learn from him all you can.
+
+The way to make friends is to be industrious, obliging and always
+courteous, no matter how tired you are or how badly things seem to go.
+
+The troubles and disappointments of one day should not be brought down
+to the next.
+
+Let every day be a new beginning in itself.
+
+Don't drink.
+
+Don't swear.
+
+Don't lose your temper and flare out under reproof.
+
+Don't shirk your work and try to do as little us you can.
+
+[Illustration: BEHIND THE LOCOMOTIVE--LOOKING IN FROM THE CAB.]
+
+Don't say to yourself so and so ain't my work and I ain't going to do
+it. Do whatever your hands find to do and do it with all your might.
+
+A model engineer is distinguished by the fullness of his knowledge of
+the engine, and this must be learned while you are a fireman--not after
+you become an engineer.
+
+He should love his work--the locomotive should be his hobby--and
+whatever contributes to enlarge his stock of information concerning
+it should contribute to his happiness. Unless he can feel that way,
+he should promptly step out of the cab and turn his attention to some
+other business, for he can never hope to make a good engineer.
+
+On the engine is the only place where one can learn to be an engineer.
+
+During the time the engine is under steam with a train, everything
+seen, heard, felt and smelt is capable of affording a lesson.
+
+On the engine the eye is trained to distinguish different colors at
+considerable distances. If one is color-blind he cannot be a good
+engineer.
+
+On the engine the ear learns to detect the slightest variation in the
+beats and knocks about the machinery--to distinguish the difference
+between the knock of an axle box and the knock of a journal.
+
+On the engine the body learns to distinguish the shocks, oscillations,
+etc., which are due to a defective road from those which arise from a
+defective engine. The olfactory nerves became very sensitive so as to
+detect the generation of heat from friction before any mischief is done.
+
+It is only while an engine is in steam and going at good speed that the
+rocks, coral-reefs and sand-banks on railways can be seen and learned,
+and the value of and the rank acquired by an engineer are in exact
+proportion to the pains he takes to find them out, and to remark their
+dangerous position on his chart.
+
+A model engineer can tell you all about any particular engine he
+happens to see merely by glancing at it.
+
+He will be able to say this was built by so and so. I know it by this
+crank, that piston. "Look here," he says, "that rod was built when I
+was a boy, it's all out of date now, consequently the engine must have
+been built in such a year."
+
+In short the model engineer should be familiar with the history of
+locomotive engines from Old No. 1 down to date.
+
+The model engineer is always a good fireman.
+
+A man may be a first-rate mechanic, he may have worked at the best
+class of machinery, he may have built engines and have read all the
+published books on the locomotive, and yet, if he is not a good hand
+at the coal shovel, he will never be a first-class engineer.
+
+A good fireman knows when to put on coal, how and where and just how
+much. A man may be the best mechanic the world ever saw and know
+nothing of these things which are the very all essentials of a good
+engineer.
+
+A model engineer is clean himself, and his engine is cleaner.
+
+Cleanliness is said to be next to godliness. Upon a railroad it may
+with truth be said that cleanliness is next below the highest talent
+and next above the length of service.
+
+A clean engineer frequently scales the ladder of progress much faster
+than a dirty one, although the latter may have everything else in his
+favor.
+
+A model engineer runs the most important trains, and he is never the
+man who wore the greasy, dirty cap or the coat and trousers all smeared
+with oil.
+
+What is the secret of constant successful engine driving?
+
+Not length of service, not because a man has served so many years on
+freight trains and so many more on passenger trains, for the best
+engineers are ever those who have been promoted over the heads of
+others for their smartness.
+
+Promotion according to merit should be the invariable rule on
+railroads. Seniority should have nothing to do with it. The position
+is too important, there are too many lives at stake, too much money
+involved to make it right or proper to push one man forward beyond
+another simply because of the length of his service. That sort of thing
+is all right for ordinary business, but for engine driving it won't do.
+
+Merit tells.
+
+To the best engineer belong the best trains.
+
+Chance never built an engine, and it should have nothing to do with
+running it.
+
+Yet the opposite way of doing things is the general rule.
+
+Engineer A retires, dies or is killed, and Engineer B is promoted
+because he happens to be next on the list. He may be a dull, stupid
+fellow, and Engineer C as bright as a dollar, but in the chance death
+of A, B gets the prize, and everybody that has any interest in the
+successful running of his train becomes the loser thereby.
+
+Engine driving, to be good, must be based upon rules and principles.
+
+He who strictly observes them wins; he who don't, loses. With the
+latter all is uncertainty; the hand trembles upon the regulator, the
+eye watches with painful anxiety the needle of the pressure gauge, and
+gazes into the fire to find out its deficiencies, but gains nothing
+but blindness by the attempt.
+
+With the engineer who has a reason for every act performed, either
+by himself or his fireman, all is different. He works by rules and
+principles that have proved themselves a thousand times over to be
+safe, practical and certain in their results.
+
+Sound rules and principles are absolutely sure in the effects of their
+application--not right to-day and wrong to-morrow; not right in a short
+trip and all astray on a long one; not right on one particular engine
+and wrong on another; not right on the first part of the run and wrong
+at the end; not right with one kind of coal and wrong with another, but
+_always right, every time_.
+
+Under the guidance of sound rules and principles, the mind of the
+driver is full, and he is enabled, under all circumstances, to handle
+the regulator with confidence, to travel with a boiler full of steam,
+and to finish with success.
+
+In a word, these are rules and principles which lead up to and make the
+success of an engineer.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+DUTIES OF AN ENGINEER.
+
+
+Let us now consider in detail some of the more important duties of an
+engineer.
+
+
+THE NOTICE BOARD.
+
+Before going to his engine an engineer should, for his own safety, as
+well as that of the public, visit the special and general notice boards
+and post himself fully upon the running of the trains for the day. By
+neglecting this more than one engineer has lost his life.
+
+An anecdote bearing on this is related on good authority, as follows:
+
+"By incessant rain a river had become so swollen that, owing to the
+rush of water, the spiles of a wooden railway bridge became shifted.
+
+"The bridge was inspected, and one side of it pronounced to be
+dangerous. Arrangements were made to use only one track until
+repairs could be made, and notice of such arrangements posted in the
+round-house.
+
+"The engineer neglected to visit the notice board, ran his train past
+the man appointed to pilot him over the break, got his train off the
+track, and was killed."
+
+After the engineer has read the notices and made himself thoroughly
+acquainted with them, he may proceed to his engine--not before.
+
+
+INSPECTION OF THE ENGINE.
+
+When on the foot plate the first thing an engineer wants to do is to
+inspect his engine in every part.
+
+Begin with the water in the gauge glass and ascertain its level and
+find out whether it correctly indicates the height of the water in the
+boiler by opening the lower cock in the usual manner.
+
+Satisfied that the boiler is safe, the engineer must assume the
+responsibility of looking after it, for should anything prove wrong
+afterward, he alone can be called to account.
+
+He should also observe what pressure of steam there is in the boiler,
+what is the condition of the fire, how much coal there is in the tender
+and its quality, and lastly that the water supply is all right.
+
+If the inspection is made properly all will go well; if in a
+half-hearted, slip-shod fashion trouble is sure to follow.
+
+
+INSPECTION OF AN ENGINE OVER A PIT.
+
+It is a good and a safe rule to examine an engine over a pit before
+starting out. When this is done properly and regularly, the habit is
+unmistakably the mark of a good engineer.
+
+That an engine may be properly examined over a pit, it is necessary
+that it should be placed in such a position that every part of it may
+be seen and inspected without having the machinery moved.
+
+The examination, to be complete, should be commenced at one specified
+point, and continued all around the engine, until the engineer returns
+to the place where he began.
+
+In general, the only tools needed are wrenches.
+
+The inspection should begin at the trailing engine axle, on the
+engineer's side, and the best rule is to examine everything, not
+forgetting the fact that more engines break down in consequence of
+bolts and split pins working out than from any other cause.
+
+After the engineer's side has been properly examined, the under side
+of the engine next claims attention. The engineer should begin at the
+crank shaft, taking his stand, where it is possible to do so, between
+the shaft and the fire box, while he is testing the bolts and rivets
+connected with it.
+
+
+BIG ENDS.
+
+Big Ends require to be fitted brass and brass, to work well, and to be
+well-cottered or bolted up, but with sufficient slackness on the crank
+bearing to allow of their being easily moved sideways by hand, so that
+a little room may be left for the expansion of the journal by heat.
+
+Big End brasses do best, wear longest, and knock least, when tightened
+up a little at a time and often, instead of being allowed to run until
+they thump alarmingly. With proper attention they seldom run hot.
+
+
+LITTLE ENDS.
+
+Little Ends need scarcely any supervision excepting what is required
+from the oiler, provided they are fitted with steel bushes. Those
+fitted with brasses require the same attention as Big Ends.
+
+
+ECCENTRICS.
+
+When the eccentrics are being examined particular attention should be
+paid to the bolts, nuts, safety-cotters and set-pins. The bolts which
+hold the two halves of each eccentric strap together should always nip
+tightly, as any slackness always affects the engine's speed.
+
+Inspect carefully also the inside springs and axle boxes, specially
+the latter. See that the fireman oils them; if he does not, you are to
+blame.
+
+The ash-pan, piston rod, smoke box, etc., all need to be looked at with
+care, for to run right the engine must start right, and this brings us
+to the most important thing of all--the condition of the fire before
+leaving the round house, for there is no other one thing on which an
+engineer's good name, success and future prospects depend so much as on
+the condition of the fire at the beginning of the day's work.
+
+If the fire is not properly lighted at the start, no matter how good
+the engine or how smart the engineer, constant trouble during the trip,
+to say nothing of an increased consumption of coal which is bound to
+tell against him, will be the result.
+
+Don't get to your work late, and don't allow your fireman to be late.
+If the fire is to be properly built he has got to take time to it.
+Fires thrown together in a hurry always turn out bad.
+
+
+DUTIES OF A FIREMAN.
+
+As the model engineer must first have served as fireman, let us say a
+word on that score.
+
+Before a fireman can serve on a passenger train, he should have served
+awhile as freight brakeman, or in the yard shifting cars. Before going
+on an express train, he must have run on slow trains as fireman. All
+this is necessary that he may acquire a knowledge of the petty details
+of his work.
+
+A superintendent who puts a green hand at firing certainly exhibits a
+great want of good judgment, to say the least, and just this has often
+been the cause of serious accidents and loss of life.
+
+Here are a few things that a man must know before he can become an
+engineer:
+
+1. How to make up a proper fire in a locomotive fire-box.
+
+2. How to handle the shovel when the engine is running.
+
+3. How to learn roads and signals.
+
+4. How to calculate the effect of the weather on the rails.
+
+5. How to manage an engine and train on varying grades.
+
+6. How to have full control of an engine and train at full speed.
+
+7. How to work the steam expansively and yet keep time.
+
+8. How to regulate the water supply.
+
+9. How to read the gauges at a glance and understand just what they
+mean.
+
+Now all these things have got to be learned while a fireman, for unless
+you know them you can never become an engineer.
+
+Some engineers will give no instructions. They demand certain results,
+and if the fireman don't do just what they expect because he does not
+understand what is wanted, they call him a fool, snatch the shovel out
+of his hand and do the work themselves.
+
+It is the engineer who is the fool in this case, and doubly so if he
+loses his temper and swears.
+
+Certainly it is very hard for a sensitive young man to learn of such a
+master, but after all it is good discipline.
+
+Never mind if you are sworn at and dubbed an idiot. No matter if you do
+choke a few fires and stop a few trains. Persevere! Keep your temper,
+watch how the engineer does it and try to do the same yourself next
+time. Show him that you are not the idiot he has called you, prove that
+you are no fool by your patience and perseverance--qualities, like
+enough, which he himself does not possess.
+
+A first class engineer, however, will show a new fireman just what he
+wants done and how to do it.
+
+Here are a few lines from an excellent manual on engineering,
+describing the conduct of a good engineer to his fireman. Read them
+with care:
+
+"With good engineers an awkward fireman soon changes his habits and
+appearance--he gets the knots dressed off of him, as it were. Has he
+been taught to come on duty dirty and late? He is sharply reproved, and
+very properly too. Does he throw the fire irons down anywhere after
+using them? He is told there is a place for everything in that engine.
+Is he dirty about his work? He is shown how to handle the shovel, oil
+feeder and everything else without blackening himself to such a degree
+that a boy in the street mistakes him for a chimney sweep. Thanks to
+such engineers, who deserve much praise for keeping their firemen in
+proper training, for, just as they _are_ trained so will they turn out
+engineers, good or bad."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+HOW TO RUN A TRAIN.
+
+
+A good engineer works his engine with direct reference to the number of
+cars he has to pull.
+
+It would seem as though any fool might know this, yet instances are on
+record where careless engineers have actually pulled out of a station
+without their trains, and never discovered that they were missing until
+they had occasion to whistle for brakes.
+
+
+STARTING.
+
+In starting the regulator should be opened gently, especially with a
+full boiler.
+
+Care is necessary when starting to keep the cylinders and valves clear
+of water. Half a pint of water will wash the faces of the cylinders
+and valves. Slip or no slip, it is better to use a little sand than to
+incur the risk of slipping when the rails are inclined to be slippery.
+
+When the engine begins to feel its load the regulator can be opened
+more. A few clear, sonorous puffs at the start do good; they rouse the
+fire into action at once--there is no hesitation in the matter. They
+also clear the tubes of loose cinders and soot left in them after being
+swept out.
+
+When you are well under way pull the lever up a notch or two at a time
+until you get it just where you want it. Don't jerk it too far, then
+let it out too much and have to pull it back. Feel your way as you go,
+and time and trouble will be saved.
+
+Nothing looks so bad as to see an engineer suddenly close the
+regulator, pull the lever very nearly out of gear and "smack" the steam
+on again. The force with which the steam may strike the piston under
+such circumstances is very great and often may do damage.
+
+To an attentive engineer the start is full of interest; for, although
+he may have made a careful and thorough examination of his engine
+before joining his train, he cannot feel satisfied that all is right
+until the full pressure of the steam is on the piston and the engine
+feels its load.
+
+
+STEAM BLOWING.
+
+Now the engineer must begin to use his ears and eyes.
+
+As the train moves on he listens.
+
+Is the steam blowing?
+
+It is.
+
+Which side?
+
+This is the way to find out.
+
+Suppose a blow is heard at each turn and only when the outside crank
+is nearly in a straight line with the piston rod looking from the
+left-hand side of the foot-plate and with the outside cranks on the
+same center line and on the same side of the axle as the inside crank.
+
+Then it would be discovered that a piston is blowing because the
+sound is intermittent, for the blowing through of a valve would be a
+continuous leaking.
+
+Further it would be certain that the defect was not in the left hand
+cylinder, there being no steam in it when the cranks were in the
+position above described, and therefore we must look to the right hand
+cylinder where the full pressure of steam must be on the piston.
+
+
+BEATS OF THE ENGINE.
+
+There are four beats for one revolution of the driving wheel or the
+crank axle.
+
+These beats tell you in emphatic language whether the engine is running
+right, or whether there is something out of gear.
+
+Learn what they mean and never let your attention be drawn from them.
+
+If the beats weaken--any one of them--it means trouble. Taken in time
+the difficulty may be easily remedied, allowed to pass unnoticed, death
+and disaster may result.
+
+
+KEEPING UP STEAM.
+
+It is scarcely necessary to state that to properly run your engine
+steam must be kept up.
+
+When the engine has got the train up to speed, steam should begin to
+issue from the safety valves. When it does not do so there has not been
+a full boiler, as there always should be at the start and the fireman
+must be made to understand how to make a starting fire in proper shape.
+
+On short runs this does not matter so much, but on express trains it is
+of the highest importance.
+
+On long runs if the engine is not instantly up to the mark at the
+start, and if the feeds must be held off to allow the fire and the
+engine a chance of recovery, the consequences are that the water in the
+boiler gets lower and less, and the uncertainty of ever getting the
+water up again becomes greater every minute, especially with a heavy
+train and against a strong side wind.
+
+
+MANAGEMENT OF FIRES.
+
+Of course the state of the steam depends altogether upon the way
+the fires are managed, but for us to give directions how to manage
+a locomotive fire-box to the best advantage would require pages of
+description which could scarcely be understood unless one had had
+previous practical experience.
+
+Remember one thing, the engineer is responsible for the fire, even if
+he does not make it. He must therefore know when a fire is good and
+when it is bad, _why_ and _what to do_.
+
+We shall, however, describe two styles of fire, the thoroughly bad and
+the thoroughly good. All intermediate grades every man must learn for
+himself.
+
+
+HOW TO BUILD A BAD FIRE.
+
+Pile your coal up in the shape of a cone, by shoveling all the coal
+into the middle of the fire box, and putting as little on the sides as
+you possibly can.
+
+Such a fire possesses the following characteristics: Uncertainty as
+regards steam making, positive certainty as regards the destruction
+of fire boxes and tubes. It generally draws air at the walls of the
+fire-box, and in consequence, the fire-irons are always in the fire,
+knocking it about and wasting the fuel.
+
+As such fires are found in the center of the grate, they weigh down the
+bars and burn them out in the middle in short order. Lastly, the cold
+air being admitted into the fire-box up the sides instead of in the
+middle, comes in direct contact with the heated plates and stays, doing
+them a great deal of damage by causing contraction and expansion.
+
+Take the best engine ever built and let an engineer run it awhile with
+these "haycock" fires, as they are called--and many do it--you will be
+sure to find the boiler subject to sudden leakage, either in the joints
+of the plates or in the stays, the tubes, or the foundation ring. Such
+engines are always in the repair shop, and because of bad firing and
+nothing else.
+
+
+HOW TO BUILD A GOOD FIRE.
+
+The good locomotive fire should maintain steam under all circumstances
+of load or weather, should consume its own smoke, should burn up every
+particle of good matter in the coal, or, in other words, capable of
+being worked to the highest point of economy.
+
+Such a fire requires to be made at the beginning, and maintained in a
+form almost resembling the inside of a saucer, shallow and concave,
+with its thinnest part in the center.
+
+A fire like this will make steam when other fires will make none.
+
+It is the only style of fire that should be permitted by a good
+engineer.
+
+
+FIRING.
+
+To fire properly the fireman should stand in such a position as to be
+able to reach the coals in the tender easily, and to work the shovel
+without shifting his feet, except when he turns slightly on his heels,
+first, toward the coal, and then toward the fire hole.
+
+If a fireman, in the act of firing, lifts his feet off the foot
+plate, he will roll about, and the firing will be improperly done, in
+consequence of the coal being knocked off the shovel by the latter
+catching against the fire hole ring or depletion plate.
+
+Don't jam the shovel into the fire-box--stop it dead at the fire-hole
+ring. Give the coals a fling, discharging them like shot right into
+their intended destination.
+
+Don't jam your shovel into the coal and load it down as much as
+possible. A few lumps of coal lying nicely on the body of the shovel
+can be handled better. The shovel should not be pushed into the coal by
+the knees, but should be worked only by the muscles of the arm.
+
+Throw the first shovelful of coal into the left hand front corner, the
+second shovelful in the right hand front corner, the third shovelful in
+the right hand back corner, the fourth shovelful in the left hand back
+corner, the fifth shovelful under the brick arch, close to the tube
+plate; the sixth and last shovelful under the door. To land this one
+properly the shovel must enter the fire-box and should be turned over
+sharp to prevent the coals falling in the center of the grate or the
+fire.
+
+Now comes the question when to fire.
+
+To fire properly, with the greatest effect in saving fuel, it should be
+done as soon as the steam begins to lift the valves, when by opening
+the fire-door and putting on a small quantity of coal the steam is
+checked sufficiently to prevent its being wasted by blowing off.
+
+Some engineers have an idea that unless the steam blows off furiously
+they have not done their duty by the engine.
+
+A big mistake this.
+
+When steam, water and fuel are being thrown away through the safety
+valves, it is a positive proof of the existence of either one or the
+other of the following evils:
+
+Either the engine is too small for its work or too great for its man,
+and both the engine and the man would do better on short runs; the
+former until it could be doctored, or the latter until he had learned
+to bottle his noise.
+
+The intervals between the rounds of firing, which should consist of
+six shovelfuls only each time the door is opened, is in every case
+regulated by the weight of the train or load, the state of the weather
+and the time allowed for running the trip, together with the quality of
+coal.
+
+The greatest possible mistake on an engine is putting on too much coal.
+The fire is choked, clinkers are formed, the temperature of the boiler
+is reduced, contraction and expansion sets in and leaks are formed--in
+a word everything goes wrong.
+
+The secret of good firing is to fire frequently, a little at a time.
+
+
+FEEDING.
+
+Having discussed fire, let us now consider the other element upon which
+the locomotive lives--water.
+
+The maintainance of steam in proper shape requires a knowledge of how
+and when to feed.
+
+The aim in feeding should be to regulate, as nearly as possible, the
+supply to the demand--just sufficient to keep the water at a proper
+level in the glass.
+
+This keeps up an even temperature in the boiler plates, tubes and
+fire-box, and this has much to do with the service of an engine. Many
+engineers always work their feed in the precise way to get the worst
+results.
+
+As soon as the boiler is full of steam and blowing off they turn on the
+pump full and keep it on until the steam is from 30 to 50 pounds below
+the maximum pressure before turning it off.
+
+This method is the very worst possible. What is wanted is a constant
+moderate supply of water, keeping the pressure as nearly even as
+possible. Nothing can beat this.
+
+When injectors are used one of them should be screwed down so that it
+will act moderately like a pump. This will save the water which is
+usually lost in turning injector on and off.
+
+
+ON THE FOOT-PLATE.
+
+When the train is under full headway the engineer should stand in
+his proper place on the foot-plate so as to be able to command the
+regulator and reversing valve at an instant's notice.
+
+Especially is this necessary at night, when the engineer's attention
+should always be on his engine, listening constantly to its beats
+to detect any irregularity which may arise from some defect in the
+machinery, frequently casting his eyes on the pressure gauge, and on
+the level of the water in the gauge glass.
+
+When the fireman puts on coal, the engineer should look round
+occasionally, to be sure that he is doing it right, placing the coal
+next to the walls of the fire-box, and not piling them in a heap in the
+middle.
+
+When the rails are slippery, great care is required to prevent the
+engine from slipping, by closing the regulator in time.
+
+When about to enter a tunnel, the sand valves should be opened, and
+the sand allowed to flow freely until the train emerges from the
+tunnel--sand is cheaper than steam.
+
+Never forget that lives and property depend upon the faithful
+performance of your work.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+HOW TO BUILD A MODEL LOCOMOTIVE.
+
+
+As a preparatory step toward becoming an engineer, it is highly
+desirable for the boy who looks forward to that honorable calling to
+familiarize himself with the different parts of the locomotive engine.
+This we have stated before.
+
+There is no better way to accomplish it than to build a model
+locomotive.
+
+At first glance this may seem to be among the things impossible, but it
+is not so, providing the boy has a mechanical turn, and any boy who has
+not better not think of becoming an engineer.
+
+We now propose to give simple and accurate directions for building a
+model locomotive, accompanying the same with a series of illustrations,
+which we trust will be sufficient for the purpose intended.
+
+Before beginning we have one word of caution to offer.
+
+Don't do your work in a hurry. Don't calculate on the length of time
+it is going to take you to do it. Make up your mind to understand each
+detail before you begin, and to work slowly and carefully.
+
+If you remember this you will probably be able to build your
+locomotive. If you forget it you certainly will fail.
+
+
+HOW TO BEGIN.
+
+First of all in building a model locomotive, as in every other class of
+engineering work, it is necessary to get the measurements correct in
+spacing out the different parts to be joined together; and do not think
+that because it is only a model you are making that any off-hand way
+will do, because you will find before the engine is half finished that
+great accuracy is necessary if you wish your model to work.
+
+A slight mistake in the measurements of a large engine will cause so
+much friction as to take half its power to overcome. The same mistake
+with your model will stop it entirely.
+
+In soldering be careful to get the metal thoroughly heated. You will
+then get a firm joint--otherwise not.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 1.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 3.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 4.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 6.]
+
+In giving these directions we assume that the boy who will undertake to
+follow them is accustomed to the use of tools to some extent. If not,
+he will have to learn as he advances by repeated experiments.
+
+Try your experiments on something else. In soldering, for instance,
+solder pieces of brass together until you learn to make a joint.
+
+Don't try your experiments on your model, or you will grow discouraged
+before you are half through.
+
+A word more about soldering.
+
+Do not touch the metal with the soldering-iron and then take it away.
+You might be able to solder in that way but the joint would not hold,
+but fall apart at the first pressure or slight blow.
+
+Soldering on the best work should be used very seldom, and all the
+fastenings should be either done by riveting, screwing or brazing, and
+it is hardly necessary to remark that no part of a boiler should be
+soldered which comes in contact with the flame of the lamp or furnace.
+
+Brazing had better not be attempted by any boy who has not been
+practically taught the art, unless it be on small joints.
+
+To braze the seams of a model boiler would require a forge fire, or a
+very powerful gas blast--too expensive for the amateur. Small things
+such as a broken slide valve, rod, etc., can be brazed by using a gas
+blowpipe.
+
+This will cost but little to make, and as it will be useful, we
+explain. See Fig. 1.
+
+To make a blowpipe such as is pictured in Fig. 1, first get a small
+piece of brass tube, A, of about half an inch diameter, and 5 inches
+long. Drill a hole at 2 inches from one end, and insert a piece of gas
+pipe, B, soldering it in place.
+
+Now take a glass tube a quarter of an inch in diameter and 7 inches
+long, hold one end in a gas flame, and when red-hot draw it out to a
+fine point, then file round and break off the tip, leaving a small hole.
+
+Now take a sound cork and squeeze it into the tube A as at C, drill a
+quarter inch hole through its center, insert the glass tube D, and the
+blow pipe is finished.
+
+To use it you connect the pipe B with a gas bracket by means of a
+rubber tube, and attach the glass tube D to a pair of bellows by means
+of another piece of rubber tubing. The bellows should have an air-bag
+attached. Otherwise you will have a jerky, uncertain flame.
+
+When you want to braze any article, bind the parts together with some
+very fine brass wire and cover with a little powdered borax and water;
+then lay the article on a piece of charcoal, and if it is necessary to
+preserve the temper of the steel you are about brazing, cut a potato
+in half and push each end of the steel rod into the halves, which will
+keep the temperature from getting too high.
+
+Then turn on the gas and start your blow pipe, at the same time
+working the bellows with your foot, and by either pushing in the glass
+tube D, or drawing it slightly out, you can regulate the shape of the
+flame as required.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 2.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 5.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 7.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 8.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 11.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 12.]
+
+Now bring the flame to bear on the joint you wish to braze, having
+first supplied plenty of borax. Soon you will find the brass wire
+melting and running into the joint like water. It must then be neatly
+filled up and the joint will be scarcely visible.
+
+Here are a few tools which will be useful to you in this work.
+
+A center punch, or steel spike for mashing metal for drilling, etc.,
+and a small riveting hammer. Three or four files of different degrees
+of fineness, a screw plate and taps, a small hand-drill with a set of
+drills to fit and a good firm vise.
+
+A lathe is of course desirable. Curves for bending metal you can easily
+make from pieces of bar-iron, holding them in the vise while working on
+them.
+
+When you have your tools ready get the material for your model.
+
+Several sheets of brass and copper, the castings and various sized
+screws and bolts are what will be required.
+
+All being thus prepared the time has arrived to take the
+
+
+FIRST STEP.
+
+The first step toward building a model locomotive is to be posted on
+the action of steam in the cylinder.
+
+Go to encyclopedia and read up on that point.
+
+If you have no encyclopedia go and look one up in some library. You
+can't build your engine until you understand this.
+
+Next draw an accurate plan of your model.
+
+Figure 2 is the idea. It is a side view of our locomotive. Let us
+describe.
+
+A. Boiler.
+
+B. Smoke-stack.
+
+C. Screwhead, to fill boiler with water.
+
+D. Steam chest with safety valve attached on top.
+
+E. Whistle.
+
+F. Steam tap to start the engine with.
+
+H. H. Leading and trailing wheels.
+
+I. Driving wheel.
+
+K. Cylinders.
+
+L. Frame.
+
+M. Buffers.
+
+N. Set thumbscrew to fasten on the tender.
+
+O. The lamp.
+
+P. Tap, used to ascertain the quantity of water in the boiler.
+
+R. S. Hand rail.
+
+To all locomotives there are three principal parts, the frame work, or
+carriage, the engine, or cylinders, and parts connected with them, and
+the boiler.
+
+Our model shall be a fifteen inch one.
+
+
+LAYING OUT MATERIALS
+
+is the next thing in order. First we want a sheet of brass for the bed
+plate, 1/16th of an inch thick, cut 4×14 inches, and be sure to cut the
+corners square. (See Figure 3.)
+
+Hammer this out flat, file it smooth and dress up, with emery cloth
+fastened upon a flat piece of wood.
+
+Next cut a square hole in it as at C, beginning half an inch from B,
+and making the opening 11 × 1-1/2 inches. Be careful to center this
+hole on the line A B, or your engine will be lopsided, and you must
+take the same care in setting the smoke stack, dome, etc.
+
+Now take Fig. 4. This represents one of the side frames. Cut these out
+now, thus:
+
+Drill holes at A B C for the axles to work in. Finish both sides the
+same way. Turn the bed plate upside down, fasten the frames on at a
+quarter of an inch from either side by small angle pieces (Fig. 5), or
+by soldering, which is easier done. Then solder a piece across each
+end, about half an inch deep, and the frame is ready for the wheels.
+
+These you can make if you have a lathe, but it would be better to buy
+your wheels ready made if you can, but if you can't do that, and have
+the lathe, turn your tires up to the form shown in Fig. 6.
+
+The small wheels should be about 2-1/2 inches in diameter, and the
+driving wheels, 4 inches. The rim, B, should project a little over
+1/16th of an inch, and the rest of the edge should be beveled off
+rightly, as at A.
+
+The spokes should then be filed up smooth, drilling out the center hole
+for the axle before removing it from the lathe.
+
+Great care must be taken to turn both the driving wheels to exactly
+the same diameter, or one wheel would travel further in a revolution
+than the other, and as they ought both to be fixed rigidly on the crank
+shaft, the engine would never travel in a straight line, but would go
+round and round in a circle.
+
+Get some steel wire for the axles and fasten them to the wheels by
+soldering or by cutting a slot with a fine file in the center of the
+wheel, as at A, Fig. 7. Then file a small portion of the ends of the
+axle flat and drive in a brass wedge made by a piece of wire which will
+hold them together firmly.
+
+The crank shaft, or axle, must be hammered up to shape, making it hot
+occasionally in the gas flame while working it.
+
+The cranks should be at right angles to each other, and the throw of
+the crank half the distance of the cylinder stroke.
+
+For instance, say the cylinder being a 1-1/2 inch stroke, the distance
+between A B (Fig. 8) will be three-quarters of an inch, you must then
+ease the size of the crank at A to prevent the piston knocking the
+cylinder ends.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 9.]
+
+The cylinders you had better buy ready made or have them made for you.
+Get a pair of oscillating cylinders of three-quarter inch bore and inch
+and a half stroke. These will drive your engines several miles an hour.
+
+Fig. 9 gives an underneath view of the frame work and the place to put
+the cylinders in. They must be supported by two lugs, A A, screwed to
+the bed plate B, which must have a piece cut out on either side to
+allow the driving wheels C, to work in, as at D; because, being larger
+than the others, they project beyond the top of the bed plate, as shown
+in Fig. 2.
+
+Next screw on by means of the hook F, the buffer beam, previously cut
+from a piece of mahogany, 5 inches long, half an inch thick and one
+inch deep, nicely squared and sand papered. Drill a hole at G, and pass
+the shank of the hook through the beam and piece of brass in front of
+the frame, screwing up tight with nut H.
+
+For buffers you may take two brass, flat-headed screws, and attach
+them to the beam half an inch from either end, allowing half an inch
+projection.
+
+Now polish everything smooth and bright. Next warm the model over the
+gas--don't let it get hot--and carefully lacquer it with a small brush
+taking care not to go over any part more than once. The spokes of the
+wheels must be painted, the buffer beams varnished and the cylinders
+painted, leaving the covers and flanges bright. Now put away your work
+to dry, covering carefully from dust.
+
+
+HOW TO MAKE THE BOILER.
+
+In making the boiler you can't be too careful. This is the part where
+the greatest chance for failure comes in.
+
+Buy a piece of copper tubing 11 inches long, 3 inches wide and half an
+inch in diameter.
+
+If you want to make it yourself bend your copper round a wooden roller
+and rivet or solder together--riveting is the best if you can get it
+tight. You must then turn two circles of brass about an eighth of an
+inch thick for the ends and polish all. Fig 10 gives you the idea.
+
+Now push the ends into either end of the tube about an eighth of
+an inch from the edge, as at A, Fig. 11, and solder in place. The
+projecting flange must be hammered down all around as at B, soldered
+and finished with a half round file. When filing solder use only an old
+worn file as a good one soon fills up.
+
+
+SMOKESTACK, TUBES, ETC.
+
+Now drill a hole at A (Fig. 10) for the smokestack, which should be
+three-quarters of an inch in diameter. Then cut a slot in the bottom of
+the boiler 6 inches long by 1-1/2 inches wide, commencing one-quarter
+of an inch from the forward end of the boiler.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 10.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 13.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 14.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 15.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 16.]
+
+Next take a sheet of copper and cut a piece about 6-1/4 inches long
+by 6 inches wide and bend it over a wooden roller to the shape shown
+in Fig. 12, keeping it 1-1/2 inches apart between A and B. Cut also
+two other pieces of copper to the shape of your bent sheet (Fig. 12),
+and make it long enough to reach to the dotted line. These form the
+two ends, and may be placed an eighth of an inch from the edges, as in
+Fig. 13, and soldered in place, and the projecting rims turned over and
+sweated with solder from the outside, in the same manner that you did
+the boiler ends in Fig. 11. Then drill a three-quarter inch hole at B
+(Fig. 13) for the bottom of the smokestack to go into, and cut a piece
+of three-quarter inch brass tubing of sufficient length to pass out at
+top of boiler about half an inch, as shown at A, Fig. 10. You can then
+hammer out a rim or flange on the bottom end of the smokestack and push
+it up through the hole in the copper box, soldering it in place from
+the top as at A, Fig. 14. Then drill two small holes at each end of the
+box, B C, Fig. 14. These should be a little more than an eighth of an
+inch in diameter, to allow an eighth of an inch tube to pass through.
+
+Now get two 12-inch lengths of hard drawn steam pipe, an eighth of an
+inch in diameter, and with your screw plate put a thread on each end,
+about half an inch in length. Then make eight nuts to fit the threads
+on the piping, filing them up into proper shape.
+
+Now take the piping and bend it very gently, to prevent it cracking,
+around a bar of iron or handle of some tool held in the vise, until
+it is in the form shown in Fig. 15. Do each one the same, then mix a
+little turpentine with white lead, and smear each end, where you have
+formed the screws, taking care not to get any into the tubes, which can
+be temporarily plugged up.
+
+Next put a nut at either end, as far as the thread will take it, then
+smear a little white lead around the holes drilled in the ends of the
+box, B C, Fig. 14.
+
+Push the tubes in from the inside, and screw up firmly with the
+remaining nuts, in the position shown at Fig. 16. The inside nuts can
+then be tightened up with a wrench, and if you do all this carefully,
+you will never be troubled with any leakage, no matter what pressure
+you may get in your boiler.
+
+These tubes are immensely strong, and owing to their small size, the
+water in them is raised quickly to a higher temperature than that
+contained in the rest of the boiler, causing a continual circulation to
+take place, and a constant supply of steam to be found.
+
+The box can now be placed in the boiler, through the slot cut in the
+bottom, taking care that the top of the box is not more than half way
+up the boiler, as at B, Fig. 10. This will leave a portion projecting
+below the lower edge of boiler like C. This part protects the flame
+of the lamp from being blown away by the draught caused by traveling
+along, and which would cause you to lose steam. Solder it firmly in
+position from the outside to prevent the flame from touching any
+soldered portion. Also solder neatly round A, Fig. 10.
+
+The smoke stack can be made from another piece of three-quarter inch
+brass; turn it up in your lathe bright and put a collar on it at A Fig.
+17, to allow it to push on to the piece of tube left projecting at A
+Fig. 10.
+
+The top of the smoke stack, B Fig. 17, will also require turning in the
+lathe and must be fitted on neatly.
+
+Get advice from some mechanic about the steam chest, which is a brass
+casting and will have to be turned up in the lathe, and after cutting a
+circular hole in the top of the boiler of about an inch in diameter it
+can be either screwed or soldered on, previously putting the steam pipe
+E in position by drilling a hole at F and after bending it as shown,
+pass it through at F and solder in place. The top of pipe E should be
+about a quarter of an inch from the top of inside of steam chest.
+
+Before soldering on the steam chest drill two holes as at G H Fig. 10,
+one for the small lug G to be screwed into, which holds one end of the
+lever of the safety valve, and that at H should be drilled conical with
+a rimer, and the valve H can be turned in the lathe and afterwards
+ground to fit the hole with a little emery and water, by means of a
+slot cut across the top and worked round with a screw driver.
+
+The spring case of the safety valve I, Figure 10, is easily made from
+a piece of one-eighth inch brass tubing, using some small, hard, brass
+wire to form the spring. When finished it should be hooked to the eye
+and screwed into the boiler at V.
+
+The manhole or screwhead, K, is used to refill the boiler when it has
+steamed low and will have to be turned up to shape, and the bed, L,
+which it screws into can be firmly soldered on the boiler, having first
+drilled a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the screw itself,
+which should be sufficiently large to allow an ordinary tin funnel to
+be used to refill by, and the screw ought to be long enough to hold a
+leather washer under the head to keep it steam-tight.
+
+The whistle, M, will require a hole drilled for it to be screwed into,
+and that, as also the steam-tap, N, and water-tap, O, can be bought
+cheap, ready to put on.
+
+The tap O should be screwed in at a slightly higher level than the top
+of box B, and when working the engine should steam issue from it when
+turned on instead of water, you ought to immediately blow off steam by
+safety valve H. Then unscrew K, and refill the boiler with water.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 17.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 18.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 19.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 21.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 22.]
+
+By this time the framework will be quite dry, no doubt, so you can,
+after cleaning and polishing the boiler, attach it to the frame by a
+screw or solder at the forward end, and the steam-pipe N can be screwed
+on to the projecting piece of tube left at F, while you also screw a
+short length of pipe into the steam box of engine through a hole in the
+bed plate. Then bend it up to the steam tap, and solder them carefully
+in position; this will hold the after end of the boiler firm.
+
+Go over every soldered joint to see if any small hole is left, and
+resolder where necessary, as a hole in the boiler not larger than a
+pin's point would prevent you from getting any pressure of steam in the
+boiler, as the water would all blow out.
+
+Now lacquer or paint your boiler, and while it is drying turn your
+attention to the lamp, which we picture in Fig. 18.
+
+
+THE LAMP.
+
+The lamp is simply an oblong tin box, about 5 inches long by 1-1/4
+inches wide and three-quarters of an inch deep.
+
+To make it cut a piece of tin 4-1/2 by 5 inches and bend it to shape.
+Then solder the two edges together and cut two ends to fit; push them
+in and solder in place.
+
+Now cut three pieces of brass quarter-inch tubing into three-quarter
+inch lengths; drilling holes in top of lamp, insert them, allowing a
+quarter of an inch to project, as at A, Fig. 17. Then solder them on
+four pieces of bent wire--C, C, C, C, Fig. 18--by which to hang the
+lamp by means of two wire pins run through them and small holes drilled
+in the sides of projecting piece C, Fig. 10.
+
+The screw filler B, Fig. 18, will have to be soldered in, also, and
+when complete the tubes A may be filled with cotton wick and the lamp
+about three-parts full of a methylated alcohol, which will give a
+clear, smokeless flame.
+
+Now you can start your locomotive by filling the boiler about three
+parts full of hot water, and then hooking the lamp underneath; you will
+soon get up a good pressure of steam.
+
+See that the taps are all turned off, and if there is no leakage from
+careless workmanship, you will find on turning the steam tap on, that
+the locomotive will run beautifully and will travel at great speed
+either on a smooth oil-cloth or a board floor.
+
+On rails it would run quicker still, but for this engine, if you make
+a small tender of the shape shown in Fig. 19, and fasten it at any
+angle by the set-screw on the foot-plate of the engine shown at N, Fig.
+2, the model will run in any sized circle you may wish without rails,
+according to the angle you fix the tender to the engine.
+
+Wooden cars you can make if you wish, but each one added will reduce
+the speed of the engine, of course.
+
+Tin is the best material to use for the tender, as no great strength is
+required--indeed it should be made as light as possible. The wheels
+and axles you must finish in the same manner as those on the engine,
+and it can be made into a tank to hold an extra supply of alcohol by
+soldering a piece of tin round the inside and covering it in with
+another piece cut to shape and fitted with a screw nut to fill by as
+shown in Fig. 18.
+
+Such is the method of constructing a model locomotive which will run
+without complicated machinery.
+
+The boy who has succeeded in following these directions will no doubt
+be ambitious to try his hand on a more complete model on a larger
+scale, something like Fig. 20 for instance, which is a side view of a
+large model locomotive in a finished state.
+
+
+HOW TO BUILD A LARGE MODEL LOCOMOTIVE.
+
+In building a large model the first thing to be done is to decide
+how large you want it. Sketch your model carefully, or, if not able
+to draw plans, get some one who is to help you. Make your plan the
+exact size of the model you intend to build, then you can take all the
+measurements from it and save yourself a lot of trouble and time.
+
+Remember, however, that the larger you make the engine the more
+expensive the castings and materials will be.
+
+Should you persevere, however, and by good fortune succeed, you will
+have a model locomotive that would cost you two or three hundred
+dollars to buy ready made. If you have a lathe and can turn the wooden
+models for the castings yourself, use sheet iron for the frame-work,
+etc., where possible; the total expense will not be so very great.
+
+Begin your work in the same way you did on the other model. If you
+want a bigger engine than the one shown in Fig. 20, there would be no
+trouble in increasing the measurements, which we are about to give,
+proportionately, remembering that Fig. 20 is drawn to an eighth-inch
+scale.
+
+
+DIMENSIONS.
+
+Make your dimensions as follows: Length over all, 3 ft. 2 in. Length
+of bed-plate, 3.5 in. Width of bed-plate, 9 in. Diameter of driving
+wheels, 8-1/4 in. Diameter of leading wheels, 5-1/4 in. Gauge--that is
+width of track on which model can run--6-1/2 in. Cylinders, 1-3/4 in.
+bore by 2-1/2 in. stroke. Length of boiler, including smoke box, 28 in.
+Diameter of boiler, 5 in.
+
+Cylinders of the above dimensions will drive the engine at a high rate
+of speed, with from 30 to 50 lbs. of steam.
+
+
+DESCRIPTION OF LARGE MODEL LOCOMOTIVES.
+
+In Fig. 20, the different parts of the engine are lettered, and it
+will be well for the boy who desires to make a locomotive like it to
+compare the following description with the cut, before he does anything
+else.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 20.]
+
+A is the smoke stack and B the steam blast used to increase the
+intensity of the fire worked by rod C running through the hollow
+hand-rail D and ending in handle F. G is the steam-dome, which with the
+safety valve is the same pattern previously used. H is the extra safety
+valve, worked from the foot-plate. I is the steam whistle, K wind
+guard, L starting lever, M smoke-box with door, N O spring buffers;
+P is the line-clearer or wheel guard. Q are the leading wheels, R R
+the driving wheels, S is one of the cylinders with piston rods and
+guides bolted to frame and showing double connecting rod at T T. U U
+are the springs which support the weight of the boiler, etc., on the
+axle bearings. The spring or rear wheel does not show, being inside the
+safety guard and hand-rail V. W is the back pressure valve, through
+which the water is thrown by the force-pump into the boiler, and X is
+the blow-off tap to clear the engine from all water after having used
+it. Y shows the side of the ash-pan.
+
+
+HOW TO DO THE WORK ON THE LARGE MODEL LOCOMOTIVE.
+
+First of all comes the frame work. It wants to be of eighth inch sheet
+iron squared up perfectly true and flat and cut as is shown in Fig. 21,
+beginning 4-1/2 inches from A, and leaving 6 inches at B, and cutting
+it 6 inches wide there by 8 inches long, and continuing it 4 inches
+wide for the rest of the distance. Be careful to keep it quite central
+on the line A B, and leave two connecting strips 1 inch wide as at C C.
+
+The side frames come next. These must be much stronger and quite
+different from those used in the previous model. They may be cut from
+the same eighth inch iron to the shape shown in Fig. 22.
+
+The center of slot B is 17 inches from one end, the center of A 10
+inches from B, and the center of C 13 inches from B.
+
+In measuring, always start from a given center if you want to be
+accurate. That is, from B to A and from B to C; not from B to A and
+from C to B.
+
+The slots are each 1-1/4 inches wide by 2 inches deep, leaving 1 inch
+of iron at the top, as shown. The four large boles shown in Fig. 23 are
+only ornamental, and can be now cut out. They also serve to lighten the
+frame.
+
+The frames, after being smoothed up can be fastened to the bed plate in
+the manner described before, by angle-irons, or knees, riveted on.
+
+Two end pieces must also be prepared. Let them be 1 inch deep, with the
+ends hammered square, at right angles, and then riveted to the bed
+plate and side frames, as shown in Fig. 20. Then drill three holes in
+them, about an inch and a half from either end, and one in the center,
+by which to bolt on the buffer beams by means of a couple of screws put
+in at the back. The buffer beams should be mahogany, 1 inch wide by 2
+deep by 10 long, squared nicely and sandpapered. A hook can then be
+made--Fig. 23--and a hole being drilled in the center of the beam, you
+can pass the hook stem through and into the central hole of framework,
+and screw up tight with nut at back, which will hold all firmly in
+place. The buffers for this model must be properly made, with springs
+to take the pressure in case you should run into anything.
+
+Fig. 24 shows this buffer. You will have to get it cast. Turn out in
+your lathe a wooden mold and get four castings in brass made from it. A
+Fig. 24 is cast with a square base plate 2 inches square, as in front
+view B, and is secured to the buffer beam by four flat-headed screws.
+The piece C must be turned true and just the size to slide in and out
+of A easily. Each part must be finished up in the lathe. A should be an
+inch and a half long. Drill a hole in the buffer beam to allow the head
+of the pin to work freely, and another hole in base plate of buffer the
+size of the pin, whose head prevents the spring from forcing C entirely
+away from A.
+
+The spring should be made of thick steel wire; the buffers can then be
+screwed in as just mentioned. The wheel-guard or line-clearer P (Fig.
+20) can next be cut out to shape and bolted on to frame, and should
+just clear the line by a quarter of an inch.
+
+We will now proceed to the axle bearings and springs, U, Fig. 20.
+
+Make a wooden model like Fig. 25, and get 6 castings in brass made from
+it. They must then be filed up square and smooth and fitted into the
+slots cut at A, B, C, Fig 22, and either screwed or riveted on by the
+side holes. Before finally fixing them prepare 6 brass bearings, B, Fig
+25, which must fit exactly and slide easily in the inner surface of A,
+then drilling a hole through each five-eighths of an inch in diameter.
+These take the axles, which in this model are all straight, and
+three-quarters of an inch in diameter, shouldered off to five-eighths
+for the bearings.
+
+Next for the springs. Take 4 pieces of either sheet iron or brass for
+the supports, 1-1/2 inches long by 1/4 inch wide. Drill a hole in
+either end as shown at C, Fig. 26. A should be three-eighths of an inch
+wide, drilled through, a pin put in and all riveted together loosely.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 23.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 24.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 25.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 26.]
+
+Now take a clock spring and cut it into shape, as at D, Fig. 26. The
+top piece requires to be made hot with your blow-pipe, then the ends
+turned over to hold the pin B. Each piece of spring must be a little
+shorter than the one above it, and the ends neatly tapered, all to be
+inclosed in the brass band F, which has a small hole drilled at F to
+hold the end of the pin by which the pressure is directed on to the
+axle boxes, as shown in Fig. 20. A hole is also to be drilled in the
+bed plate over the center of each axle box to allow the pin to pass
+through, and also a smaller one an inch and a half on each side for the
+support A, Fig. 26, to screw into. Now all can be fitted into position.
+
+Next come the cylinders. These are to be an inch thick and
+three-quarters bore by two and a half inch stroke. They should be of
+the fixed slide-valve pattern, with double eccentrics fitted on the
+middle axle shaft, and reversing lever brought to quadrant on foot
+plate. They had better be bought ready made.
+
+Fig. 27 shows their working. A A are the eccentrics, B the slide-valve
+rod with guide G attached. C C is the bed plate and D the balance
+weight, F the rod leading to quadrant and lever on foot plate. The
+cranks are put on outside the wheels and fastened by keys as in Fig.
+20. The connecting rod T should be cut to the form shown in Fig. 28,
+and the ends squared out and a brass band fitted in with a hole drilled
+from top A to oil by and a set screw B to adjust the bearings perfectly.
+
+If you wish to fit a force pump it should be placed centrally between
+the cylinders and be worked by an eccentric on the main shaft, but a
+pump on a model locomotive is next to useless unless it is also made to
+work by hand.
+
+In Fig. 29, we have one which can be worked either way. A is the pump;
+B the eccentric on main-shaft to work it by steam power. To work by
+hand you have only to push up hook connection C, which disconnects it
+from the eccentric; and then by working the handle D, which is screwed
+into the bottom of the plunger C, the water is forced into the boiler.
+An extra stuffing-box at F will be required. G is the exhaust water
+pipe bent up to the back-pressure valve on boiler, and H the supply
+pipe carried on to rear of engine.
+
+Two small blow-off cocks will be necessary on each cylinder to get rid
+of the condensed steam when starting. They can be connected with a
+tye-rod, and both worked from the foot-plate with a single handle. Now
+paint to suit your taste and put away to dry.
+
+Next comes the boiler, which will need extreme care. For this you will
+require sheet copper an eighth of an inch thick.
+
+First cut a piece 19 inches long by 16 wide and bend it round, forming
+a cylinder 5 inches in diameter. The cap must be closely riveted and
+the two ends hammered out into a flange outward, leaving the body of
+the boiler 17 inches long, as in Fig. 30. B is the shape of the piece
+to be next riveted on at after end. Now take another sheet 9 inches
+wide and hammer a half inch flange round it, so as to fit over the
+dotted line at A. Rivet them firmly together and also another piece in
+after end. It will then have the appearance of Fig. 31, and should be
+4-1/2 inches deep from A to B, and forming a copper box 6 inches wide
+from B to C and 8 inches from C to D. Then rivet together another box
+to form the inner casing 4-1/2 inches wide by 6-1/2 inches long and 9
+inches deep, the bottom to be hammered outward to the dimensions of B
+C C D, as shown in section Fig. 32 at A A. A hole is next to be cut
+out in the center of rear plate and also the rear part of inner casing
+which comes opposite to it, and 1-3/4 inches by 2-1/2 forming the
+furnace door.
+
+A casting of that shape and 3/4 of an inch thick, which is the distance
+between the inner and outer casing B C, must be procured and drilled
+with holes every 3/8 of an inch and firmly riveted in position, as
+shown in Fig. 32 at D. Two pins should project on either side of the
+inner surface to support the fire-bars and ash pan, and the bars should
+be made of cast iron and small enough to get out easily by tilting up
+one side; they should run lengthwise of the engine.
+
+For the boiler tubes some hard drawn brass tubing three-quarters of
+an inch in diameter will be required. Cut the pieces slightly over
+17 inches long, then drill 10 holes in the inner plate as at E, Fig.
+32, and in the position and arrangement shown in Fig. 33. These tubes
+should have a wire ring brazed on about a quarter of an inch from
+either end, and then being placed in their respective holes in the tube
+plate, the projecting portion is to be headed back with a flange, or
+you can fit them in as already shown in Fig. 16 by each being double
+screwed and nutted. These tubes allow the smoke and flame to pass
+through from the furnace to the smoke box, M, Fig. 20, and so away up
+the smoke stack, and by the large surface they expose to the fire, help
+to raise steam very quickly. In some engines as many as 300 tubes are
+fitted.
+
+The steam supply pipe and regulating lever handle should now be made
+and placed in position, and Fig. 34 shows the shape to make it. A B are
+the front and rear plates of the boiler, C is the supply pipe bent with
+a screw end downward, after passing plate A, and then upward into the
+steam dome, where it should be securely fastened into a cross-piece. D
+is the tap or valve which can be turned on or off from the foot-plate
+by means of the long rod, F, ending in the lever handle, G.
+
+The rod must be fitted with a stuffing-box, the same as those used on
+the cylinders, and packed with cotton wick to prevent loss of steam by
+leakage. When all this is complete, the forward end of the boiler can
+be furnished with a tube-plate riveted on and the tubes flanged over.
+
+Now the boiler must go to a practical brazier, and be properly brazed.
+Cut the hole for the steam dome, and let him braze it on at the same
+time. If the job is practically done, your boiler can be heated red-hot
+without fear.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 27.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 28.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 29.]
+
+Meanwhile buy your pressure gauge--it wants to be one and a half inches
+in diameter--and let the brazier test your boiler to 100 pounds steam
+to the square inch capacity.
+
+Should it burst you will have to make another. If not you need
+thereafter have no fears.
+
+Now make the smoke box, which should be three inches deep and of the
+shape and dimensions shown in Fig. 35. This and the smoke-stack can be
+made of iron, hammered up to shape and finished with a brass ring. The
+smoke-box can be screwed on the forward flange or boiler.
+
+The door is drawn open to show the amount of bulge it should be
+hammered to. In the center a hole should be drilled through which to
+pass the screw used to close it, which is attached to the loose bar, A.
+The handle, B, is then screwed up tight.
+
+The door is circular and must be large enough to overlap the opening
+about half an inch and have a couple of bright iron or brass eyes, C,
+riveted on to form the hinge.
+
+Next comes the back-pressure valve, Fig 36. A is a front view with
+plate by which it is bolted to the boiler, as at W, Fig. 20.
+
+It is very simple to make, and consists of the casting A with top and
+bottom covers and the ball-valve B, which ought to be ground with a
+little emery and oil to fit perfectly. It acts in this manner.
+
+The water being forced up C from the pump, raises B and passes into the
+boiler. On the up stroke of pump, the pressure is removed from under
+B and the pressure of steam in the boiler causes it to fall back and
+close the opening entirely, preventing any water from passing away from
+the boiler. A small flange can be put on each outer side of the boiler
+near the furnace to support it on bed-plate level with smoke box.
+
+The boiler should now be covered with flannel, cut to shape and wrapped
+round the body part and a casing of sheet tin put over it and secured
+by brass bands and small nuts underneath--as shown in Fig. 20.
+
+The steam supply pipe can now be connected with the cylinders and
+it should be made forked as in Fig. 37. A leads from steam pipe and
+branches off to each cylinder, where it must be screwed up with white
+lead.
+
+The exhaust pipes B B should be of larger tubing and bent round up the
+sides of the smoke box so as to be out of the way when you have to
+clean the tubes. A small brass pipe, C, must also be passed through the
+chimney, bent upwards and fitted with a tap which should take the steam
+from the top of the boiler and be used as shown at D F Fig. 20. This
+helps to raise steam very quickly.
+
+Fig. 38 is a rear view of the foot plate and shows the necessary
+fittings which you must either make or buy to complete the model.
+
+The cocks you might make but the water gauge you must buy. A is the
+furnace door, B two gauge taps, C starting-lever handle, D spring
+balance safety valve, F wind-guard with two look-out holes, G steam
+whistle handle, H pressure gauge, N the quadrant and lever for
+reversing the engine, O the rear buffer beam with buffers, P the wheels
+showing axle, R R the springs for same and V the safety-guard rail on
+either side.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 30.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 31.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 32.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 33.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 34.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 35.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 37.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 36.]
+
+When these fittings are all complete holes must be drilled in rear
+plate for each piece; they must be firmly screwed in place with white
+lead. The glass tube of the water gauge, the stuffing-box, and the
+gland of the starting lever should be closely packed with tallow and
+cotton wick.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 38.]
+
+Next paint the entire model over again and let it dry. We give no
+directions as to colors; use your own taste. After the paint is
+thoroughly dry varnish with the best clear, hard varnish and let it dry
+again.
+
+While it is drying you can be making the rails.
+
+Get some square bar iron, cut it into six-foot lengths, if you wish the
+rails to be portable, and drill a hole in each end half an inch deep.
+
+The rails can be joined together at each end by means of a piece of
+wire and kept at a proper distance apart by being fastened to pieces
+of wood placed like sleepers, fastened by screws passing through holes
+drilled in the rails every six inches. These sections can be laid
+end to end, and your line be made as long as you wish. If you want a
+circular line, each section must be bent to a portion of a circle; one
+about 30 feet in diameter is suitable for this model.
+
+When finished place your locomotive on the track and get up steam. Fill
+the boiler with water by means of a funnel until you see it rise up
+three parts of the way in the glass water-gauge. Then see that all taps
+are turned off and start the fire. Charcoal is the best fuel, as it
+gives a clear, hot fire without much smoke once you start it right.
+
+Try the safety-valve occasionally to see how your steam is getting on,
+and when it begins to form turn on the blast-tap, which will soon draw
+up the fire, and you will presently see the pressure rise and show
+itself in the pressure-gauge.
+
+When the gauge shows 30 lbs. of steam you might start the model by
+turning on the cocks on cylinders until no more condensed steam issues
+from them.
+
+Then shut them off and turn on steam full power and watch the engine
+travel, gradually increasing its speed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+
+Let us now bear the conclusion of the whole matter, which takes us
+straight back to where we started, and we again repeat if you want to
+become an engineer make up your mind that you will be a good one or
+none at all.
+
+We have examined the locomotive inside and out, underneath and on top,
+even peering down the smoke-stack, crawling into the fire-box, and
+learning the true science of shoveling coal.
+
+What then remains to be told?
+
+Nothing that can be remembered long enough to be of any practical use.
+
+There are matters--dozens of them--connected with locomotive
+engineering which we have not even alluded to, but they are for the
+most part such as must be learned by actual every day experience to be
+of any use.
+
+We might, perhaps, under three heads speak a few closing words. First
+let us take up
+
+
+SIGNALS,
+
+and post ourselves a bit on that most important subject.
+
+The greater part of an engineer's time while on his engine must be
+spent in the lookout for signals.
+
+Upon this depends not only the safety of every soul on the train but
+his own as well.
+
+_Never jump at conclusions in the matter of signals._
+
+Never assume that because a "distant" signal and all the other signals
+are off the line is clear.
+
+Every engineer should, as far as possible, not only see that each
+signal is off, but he should also cast his eye over the road in front
+of him to see whether it _should_ be off. At night caution in the
+matter of signals is even more necessary than in daylight. Then the
+only safety lies in keeping a constant lookout.
+
+You must know your road. It is not enough to know where the up grades
+lie and where the downs. You must know just how steep the grades are
+and their length.
+
+Often signals are badly placed and cannot be seen until the engine is
+close upon them.
+
+With this you have nothing to do. Engineers do not place signals.
+Doubtless if they did they would alter the position of many of them.
+All you have to do is to heed the signals, no matter how well or how
+badly they are placed.
+
+To enter into a detailed description of signals until some universal
+system of signaling is adopted, would be but a waste of time.
+
+You will have to learn all these things during your apprenticeship;
+they are matters upon which books can give you little help.
+
+Presence of mind you must always have if you expect to become a good
+engineer, and courage, too--plenty of it. This brings us to our second
+head, which we will write
+
+
+"BROKE DOWN."
+
+What to do when the engine has broken down?
+
+There comes the tug of war, the time when it will be definitely decided
+whether the engineer is good, bad or indifferent.
+
+Hundreds of lives may depend upon prompt action, thousands of dollars'
+worth of property are in the engineer's hands, either to waste or save
+when the moment of the break down comes.
+
+In Mr. S. A. Alexander's excellent treatise entitled "Broke Down"
+is placed in red letters over every page, "Protect Yourself from
+Approaching Trains."
+
+When a break-down occurs, this is the first thought which should enter
+the engineer's mind, and the first act should be to carry it out.
+
+There are many causes of a break-down, too many to enumerate. In
+the roundhouse is the place to study break-downs, for here, daily,
+every variety is open to inspection--broken crank-shafts, broken
+eccentric-rods, eccentric-straps and sheaves, broken motion and broken
+springs.
+
+Of course an engine may be broken, and yet able to run its train
+through. This is an important consideration. Some engineers hardly know
+when they are beaten.
+
+It is a matter of record that a certain engineer, known as "Hell-fire
+Jack," ran his train over a bridge after one side had been washed
+away by a raging flood. Thousands of such daring deeds have been
+accomplished by engineers, but "Cautious Jacks" will be better
+appreciated by the company than "Hell-fire Jacks" every time.
+
+Real heroism lies in good judgment and a cool head. Suppose that
+the right hand back gear eccentric-rod breaks. "Can I get along in
+forward gear, after having disconnected the rod and the strap?" is
+the question. The answer is yes, and it should be prompt, as all such
+answers should be when the engine breaks down.
+
+It is such readiness as this that makes break-downs but a matter of a
+few moments.
+
+It is also highly necessary that the engineer should ask himself "What
+tools have I upon the engine? What can I do with them? Can I find them
+in the dark? If I run off the track in what condition is my screw jack?
+Will it work properly? Have I a ratchet or bar to work it with?"
+
+These are things which should be continually kept in mind.
+
+
+AIR BRAKES.
+
+The air-brake has changed engine driving materially in the last few
+years, and a word or two concerning it should be said.
+
+The air-brake consists briefly of an air cylinder placed beneath each
+car, which can be operated by the engineer from the foot plate, the
+pressure of the air controlling the action of the brakes.
+
+There are two valves to an air-brake, one for ordinary stops and the
+other for sudden stops in case of emergency.
+
+In the first only partial pressure of the confined air is used, in the
+latter the full pressure is employed and the brakes brought against the
+wheels with all force at once.
+
+One of the most important duties of an engineer is to be well assured
+that the air-brakes are in proper working order.
+
+After the call for hand brakes has been given, the air brakes must not
+be applied until the hand brakes are released. Air and hand brakes
+should never be used at the same time on a car.
+
+When cars having different air pressures are coupled together the
+brakes will work first on that having the highest pressure.
+
+Special instruction is needed to fully comprehend the working of air
+brakes.
+
+Here is a speed table which may be useful. We have taken the liberty
+of extracting it from Alexander's "Ready-reference for Locomotive
+Engineers," an excellent hand-book with which all candidates for the
+foot-plate should provide themselves. Published by the author, S. A.
+Alexander, York, Pa.
+
+
+TIME AND SPEED TABLES.
+
+  Key: M = Minutes.
+       S = Seconds.
+       T = 10th of a Second.
+
+                          M S  T
+  10 miles per hour is    6.00   to 1 mile
+  11 "      "   "   "     5.27   "  1  "
+  12 "      "   "   "     5.90   "  1  "
+  13 "      "   "   "     4.37   "  1  "
+  14 "      "   "   "     4.17   "  1  "
+  15 "      "   "   "     4.00   "  1  "
+  16 "      "   "   "     3.45   "  1  "
+  17 "      "   "   "     3.32   "  1  "
+  18 "      "   "   "     3.20   "  1  "
+  19 "      "   "   "     3.09.5 "  1  "
+  20 "      "   "   "     3.00   "  1  "
+  21 "      "   "   "     2.51.5 "  1  "
+  22 "      "   "   "     2.43.5 "  1  "
+  23 "      "   "   "     2.36.5 "  1  "
+  24 "      "   "   "     2.30   "  1  "
+  25 "      "   "   "     2.24   "  1  "
+  26 "      "   "   "     2.18.6 "  1  "
+  27 "      "   "   "     2.13.3 "  1  "
+  28 "      "   "   "     2.08.5 "  1  "
+  29 "      "   "   "     2.04   "  1  "
+  30 "      "   "   "     2.00   "  1  "
+  31 "      "   "   "     1.56   "  1  "
+  32 "      "   "   "     1.52.5 "  1  "
+  33 "      "   "   "     1.49   "  1  "
+  34 "      "   "   "     1.45.6 "  1  "
+  35 "      "   "   "     1.42.6 "  1  "
+  36 "      "   "   "     1.40   "  1  "
+  37 "      "   "   "     1.37.3 "  1  "
+  38 "      "   "   "     1.34.7 "  1  "
+  39 "      "   "   "     1.32.3 "  1  "
+  40 "      "   "   "     1.30.0 "  1  "
+  41 "      "   "   "     1.27.7 "  1  "
+  42 "      "   "   "     1.25.7 "  1  "
+  43 "      "   "   "     1.23.5 "  1  "
+  44 "      "   "   "     1.21.7 "  1  "
+  45 "      "   "   "     1.20.0 "  1  "
+  46 "      "   "   "     1.18.2 "  1  "
+  47 "      "   "   "     1.16.6 "  1  "
+  48 "      "   "   "     1.15.0 "  1  "
+  49 "      "   "   "     1.13.5 "  1  "
+  50 "      "   "   "     1.12.0 "  1  "
+  51 "      "   "   "     1.10.6 "  1  "
+  52 "      "   "   "     1.09.4 "  1  "
+  53 "      "   "   "     1.07.9 "  1  "
+  54 "      "   "   "     1.06.6 "  1  "
+  55 "      "   "   "     1.05.4 "  1  "
+  56 "      "   "   "     1.04.3 "  1  "
+  57 "      "   "   "     1.03.2 "  1  "
+  58 "      "   "   "     1.02.2 "  1  "
+  60 "      "   "   "     1.00.0 "  1  "
+  65 "      "   "   "     0.55.3 "  1  "
+  70 "      "   "   "     0.51.4 "  1  "
+  75 "      "   "   "     0.48.0 "  1  "
+  80 "      "   "   "     0.45.0 "  1  "
+  85 "      "   "   "     0.42.3 "  1  "
+  90 "      "   "   "     0.40.0 "  1  "
+  95 "      "   "   "     0.37.9 "  1  "
+  100"      "   "   "     0.36.0 "  1  "
+
+The boy who aims to become an engineer should not waste his school
+hours in idle dreaming or in too much sport.
+
+Improve every moment you can spare from other duties or needed exercise
+in studying arithmetic, geometry, algebra and mechanical engineering. A
+little knowledge as a draughtsman will also be a great help.
+
+Above all, get some larger manual on locomotive engineering and read
+and re-read it until you know its contents by heart.
+
+Remember that there is no limit to knowledge in any direction.
+
+The time can never come to any engineer when he can truthfully say to
+himself, "I know it all," and to his life-long study write
+
+[Illustration: THE END.]
+
+
+
+
+THE LARGEST AND BEST LIBRARY.
+
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+
+Colored Covers. 32 Pages. All Kinds of Good Stories. Price 5 Cents.
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+  1  Dick Decker, the Brave Young Fireman
+                                      by Ex Fire Chief Warden
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+  3  Little Lou, the Pride of the Continental Army. A Story
+       of the American Revolution   by General Jas. A. Gordon
+  4  Railroad Ralph, the Boy Engineer      by Jas. C. Merritt
+  5  The Boy Pilot of Lake Michigan  by Capt. Thos. H. Wilson
+  6  Joe Wiley, the Young Temperance Lecturer by Jno. B. Dowd
+  7 The Little Swamp Fox. A Tale of General Marion and His
+       Men                          by General Jas. A. Gordon
+  8  Young Grizzly Adams, the Wild Beast Tamer. A True Story
+       of Circus Life                         by Hal Standish
+  9  North Pole Nat; or, The Secret of the Frozen Deep
+                                     by Capt. Thos. H. Wilson
+  10 Little Deadshot, the Pride of the Trappers
+                                              by An Old Scout
+  11 Liberty Hose; or, The Pride of Plattsville
+                                      by Ex Fire Chief Warden
+  12 Engineer Steve, the Prince of the Rail
+                                           by Jas. C. Merritt
+  13 Whistling Walt, the Champion Spy. A Story of the
+       American Revolution          by General Jas. A. Gordon
+  14 Lost in the Air; or, Over Land and Sea
+                                              by Allyn Draper
+  15 The Little Demon; or, Plotting Against the Czar
+                                             by Howard Austin
+  16 Fred Farrell, the Barkeeper's So         by Jno. B. Dowd
+  17 Slippery Steve, the Cunning Spy of the Revolution
+                                    by General Jas. A. Gordon
+  18 Fred Flame, the Hero of Greystone No. 1
+                                      by Ex Fire Chief Warden
+  19 Harry Dare; or, A New York Boy in the Navy
+                                         by Col. Ralph Fenton
+  20 Jack Quick, the Boy Engineer          by Jas. C. Merritt
+  21 Doublequick, the King Harpooner; or, The Wonder of the
+       Whalers                       by Capt. Thos. H. Wilson
+  22 Rattling Rube, the Jolly Scout and Spy. A Story of the
+       Revolution                   by General Jas. A. Gordon
+  23 In the Czar's Service; or, Dick Sherman in Russia
+                                             by Howard Austin
+  24 Ben o' the Bowl; or, The Road to Ruin    by Jno. B. Dowd
+  25 Kit Carson, the King of Scouts           by an Old Scout
+  26 The School Boy Explorers; or, Among the Ruins of Yucatan
+                                             by Howard Austin
+  27 The Wide Awakes; or, Burke Halliday, the Pride of the
+       Volunteers                     by Ex Fire Chief Warden
+  28 The Frozen Deep; or, Two Years in the Ice
+                                     by Capt. Thos. H. Wilson
+  29 The Swamp Rats; or, The Boys Who Fought for Washington
+                                       by Gen. Jas. A. Gordon
+  30 Around the World on Cheek               by Howard Austin
+  31 Bushwhacker Ben; or, The Union Boys of Tennessee
+                                         by Col. Ralph Fenton
+
+For sale by all newsdealers, or sent to any address on receipt of
+price, 5 cents per copy--6 copies for 25 cents. Address
+
+
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+
+
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+
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+
+Containing Stories of a Gold Seeker.
+
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+
+Colored Covers.
+
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+  1  Young Klondike; or, Off For the Land of Gold.
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+       Creek.
+  4  Young Klondike and the Claim Agents; or, Fighting the Land Sharks
+       of Dawson City.
+  5  Young Klondike's New Diggings; or, The Great Gold Find on Owl Creek.
+  6  Young Klondike's Chase; or, The Gold Pirates of the Yukon.
+  7  Young Klondike's Golden Island; or, Half a Million in Dust.
+  8  Young Klondike's Seven Strikes; or, The Gold Hunters of High Rock.
+  9  Young Klondike's Journey to Juneau; or, Guarding a Million in Gold.
+  10 Young Klondike's Lucky Camp; or, Working the Unknown's Claim.
+  11 Young Klondike's Lost Million; or, The Mine Wreckers of Gold Creek.
+  12 Young Klondike's Gold Syndicate; or, Breaking the Brokers of Dawson
+       City.
+  13 Young Klondike's Golden Eagle; or, Working a Hidden Mine.
+  14 Young Klondike's Trump Card; or, The Rush to Rocky River.
+  15 Young Klondike's Arctic Trail; or, Lost in a Sea of Ice.
+  16 Young Klondike's New Bonanza; or, The Gold Diggers of French Gulch.
+  17 Young Klondike's Death Trap; or, Lost Underground.
+  18 Young Klondike's Fight for a Claim; or, The Boomers of Raccoon
+       Creek.
+  19 Young Klondike's Deep Sea Diggings; or, Working at the Mouth of
+       the Yukon.
+  20 Young Klondike's Winter Camp; or, Mining Under the Snow.
+
+For sale by all newsdealers, or sent to any address on receipt of
+price, 5 cents per copy--6 copies for 25 cents. Address
+
+
+FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,
+
+  29 West 26th St.,        New York.
+
+
+
+
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+
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+
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+
+
+COMPLETE LIST.
+
+  1  Fred Fearnot; or, School Days at Avon.
+  2  Fred Fearnot, Detective; or, Balking a Desperate Game.
+  3  Fred Fearnot's Daring Rescue; or, A Hero in Spite of Himself.
+  4  Fred Fearnot's Narrow Escape; or, The Plot That Failed.
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+  8  Fred Fearnot at Sea; or, A Chase Across the Ocean.
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+  10 Fred Fearnot's Great Peril; or, Running Down the Counterfeiters.
+  11 Fred Fearnot's Double Victory; or, Killing Two Birds With One
+      Stone.
+  12 Fred Fearnot's Game Finish; or, His Bicycle Race to Save a Million.
+  13 Fred Fearnot's Great Run; or, An Engineer For a Week.
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+  15 Fred Fearnot's Engine Company; or, Brave Work as a Fireman.
+  16 Fred Fearnot's Good Work; or, Helping a Friend in Need.
+
+For sale by all newsdealers or sent to any address on receipt of price,
+5 cents per copy, or 6 copies for 25 cents.
+
+
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+
+  29 West 26th St.,        New York.
+
+
+
+
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+
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+
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+
+Issued Weekly. Price 5 Cents.
+
+Containing Stories of Old King Brady, the Great Detective, assisted by
+Young King Brady, his faithful young pupil.
+
+Embracing the most daring adventures, startling scenes and hairbreadth
+escapes ever published.
+
+
+READ THE FOLLOWING LIST.
+
+  1. The Black Band; or, The Two King Bradys Against a Hard Gang.
+  2. Told by the Ticker; or, The Two King Bradys on a Wall Street Case.
+  3. The Bradys After a Million; or, Their Chase to Save an Heiress.
+  4. The Bradys' Great Bluff; or, A Bunco Game that Failed to Work.
+  5. In and Out; or, The Two King Bradys on a Lively Chase.
+
+For sale by all newsdealers or sent postpaid on receipt of price, 5
+cents per copy, by
+
+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
+Price 5 Cents. Price 5 Cents.
+
+
+LIST OF NUMBERS:
+
+  1. Handsome Harry of the Fighting Belvedere.
+  2. Handsome Harry's Peril; or, Saved by His Trusty Crew.
+  3. Handsome Harry's Chase; or, On the Track of the "Vulture."
+  4. Handsome Harry in Africa; or, A Land Hunt for His Foe.
+  5. Handsome Harry and the Slaver; or, Adventures With Friends and
+       Foes.
+
+If you cannot procure any numbers of Handsome Harry from your
+newsdealer, send the price, 5 cents per copy, to us and we will send
+any copies ordered by return mail. Address
+
+
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+
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+Etiquette=, =The Art of Ventriloquism=, =Gymnastic Exercises=, and =The
+Science of Self-Defense=, =etc.=, =etc.=
+
+
+  1 NAPOLEON'S ORACULUM AND DREAM BOOK.
+  2 HOW TO DO TRICKS.
+  3 HOW TO FLIRT.
+  4 HOW TO DANCE.
+  5 HOW TO MAKE LOVE.
+  6 HOW TO BECOME AN ATHLETE.
+  7 HOW TO KEEP BIRDS.
+  8 HOW TO BECOME A SCIENTIST.
+  9 HOW TO BECOME A VENTRILOQUIST.
+  10 HOW TO BOX.
+  11 HOW TO WRITE LOVE LETTERS.
+  12 HOW TO WRITE LETTERS TO LADIES.
+  13 HOW TO DO IT; OR, BOOK OF ETIQUETTE.
+  14 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
+  15 HOW TO BECOME RICH.
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+  17 HOW TO DRESS.
+  18 HOW TO BECOME BEAUTIFUL.
+  19 FRANK TOUSEY'S U. S. DISTANCE TABLES, POCKET COMPANION AND GUIDE.
+  20 HOW TO ENTERTAIN AN EVENING PARTY.
+  21 HOW TO HUNT AND FISH.
+  22 HOW TO DO SECOND SIGHT.
+  23 HOW TO EXPLAIN DREAMS.
+  24 HOW TO WRITE LETTERS TO GENTLEMEN.
+  25 HOW TO BECOME A GYMNAST.
+  26 HOW TO ROW, SAIL AND BUILD A BOAT.
+  27 HOW TO RECITE AND BOOK OF RECITATIONS.
+  28 HOW TO TELL FORTUNES.
+  29 HOW TO BECOME AN INVENTOR.
+  30 HOW TO COOK.
+  31 HOW TO BECOME A SPEAKER.
+  32 HOW TO RIDE A BICYCLE.
+  33 HOW TO BEHAVE.
+  34 HOW TO FENCE.
+  35 HOW TO PLAY GAMES.
+  36 HOW TO SOLVE CONUNDRUMS.
+  37 HOW TO KEEP HOUSE.
+  38 HOW TO BECOME YOUR OWN DOCTOR.
+  39 HOW TO RAISE DOGS, POULTRY, PIGEONS AND RABBITS.
+  40 HOW TO MAKE AND SET TRAPS.
+  41 THE BOYS OF NEW YORK END MEN'S JOKE BOOK.
+  42 THE BOYS OF NEW YORK STUMP SPEAKER.
+  43 HOW TO BECOME A MAGICIAN.
+  44 HOW TO WRITE IN AN ALBUM.
+  45 THE BOYS OF NEW YORK MINSTREL GUIDE AND JOKE BOOK.
+  46 HOW TO MAKE AND USE ELECTRICITY.
+  47 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE.
+  48 HOW TO BUILD AND SAIL CANOES.
+  49 HOW TO DEBATE.
+  50 HOW TO STUFF BIRDS AND ANIMALS.
+  51 HOW TO DO TRICKS WITH CARDS.
+  52 HOW TO PLAY CARDS.
+  53 HOW TO WRITE LETTERS.
+  54 HOW TO KEEP AND MANAGE PETS.
+  55 HOW TO COLLECT STAMPS AND COINS.
+  56 HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.
+  57 HOW TO MAKE MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS.
+  58 HOW TO BECOME A DETECTIVE.
+  59 HOW TO MAKE A MAGIC LANTERN.
+  60 HOW TO BECOME A PHOTOGRAPHER.
+  61 HOW TO BECOME A BOWLER.
+  62 HOW TO BECOME A WEST POINT MILITARY CADET.
+  63 HOW TO BECOME A NAVAL CADET.
+  64 HOW TO MAKE ELECTRICAL MACHINES.
+  65 MULDOON'S JOKES.
+  66 HOW TO DO PUZZLES.
+  67 HOW TO DO ELECTRICAL TRICKS.
+  68 HOW TO DO CHEMICAL TRICKS.
+  69 HOW TO DO SLEIGHT OF HAND.
+  70 HOW TO MAKE MAGIC TOYS.
+  71 HOW TO DO MECHANICAL TRICKS.
+  72 HOW TO DO SIXTY TRICKS WITH CARDS.
+  73 HOW TO DO TRICKS WITH NUMBERS.
+  74 HOW TO WRITE LETTERS CORRECTLY.
+  75 HOW TO BECOME A CONJURER.
+  76 HOW TO TELL FORTUNES BY THE HAND.
+  77 HOW TO DO FORTY TRICKS WITH CARDS.
+  78 HOW TO DO THE BLACK ART.
+  79 HOW TO BECOME AN ACTOR.
+
+All the above books are for sale by newsdealers throughout the United
+States and Canada, or they will be sent, post-paid, to your address, on
+receipt of 10c. each.
+
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+
+
+FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,
+
+  29 WEST 26th STREET,     NEW YORK.
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+The Table of Contents was added by the transcriber.
+
+Some inconsistent punctuation has been normalized throughout the book.
+
+Some inconsistent hyphenation (e.g. smokestack vs. smoke-stack) has
+been retained.
+
+Some illustrations in this book appear to have been lifted from
+Locomotive Engine Driving: A Practical Manual for Engineers in Charge
+of Locomotive Engines by Michael Reynolds (London: Crosby Lockwood,
+1888).
+
+Fractions have been normalized to the form X-Y/Z.
+
+Page 5, changed "locomotiive" to "locomotive."
+
+Page 7, changed "Engilsh" to "English."
+
+Page 8, changed "clumsey" to "clumsy" and "prise" to "prize."
+
+Page 16, changed "guage" to "gauge."
+
+Page 17, changed "will came" to "will come."
+
+Page 19, changed "where on can" to "where one can."
+
+Page 21, changed "gain" to "gains."
+
+Page 22, changed "reponsibility" to "responsibility."
+
+Page 24, changed "read then" to "read them."
+
+Page 27, changed "thinest" to "thinnest."
+
+Page 29, changed "guage" to "gauge" (twice) and "at at" to "at."
+
+Page 34, changed "undestand" to "understand."
+
+Page 51, changed "shown it Fig. 35" to "shown in Fig. 35" and "llittle"
+to "little."
+
+Page 56, changed "definately" to "definitely."
+
+Page 57, changed "air-brakes consists" to "air-brake consists."
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER***
+
+
+******* This file should be named 44604-8.txt or 44604-8.zip *******
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+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" />
+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of How to Become an Engineer, by Frank W. Doughty</title>
+    <style type="text/css">
+
+body {
+    margin-left: 10%;
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+<body>
+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, How to Become an Engineer, by Frank W. Doughty</h1>
+<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a
+href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></p>
+<p>Title: How to Become an Engineer</p>
+<p>Author: Frank W. Doughty</p>
+<p>Release Date: January 6, 2014  [eBook #44604]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h4>E-text prepared by Demian Katz<br />
+    and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+    (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br />
+    from page images generously made available by the<br />
+    Digital Library of the Falvey Memorial Library,<br />
+    Villanova University<br />
+    (<a href="http://digital.library.villanova.edu">http://digital.library.villanova.edu</a>)</h4>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10">
+  <tr>
+    <td valign="top">
+      Note:
+    </td>
+    <td>
+      Images of the original pages are available through the
+      Digital Library of the Falvey Memorial Library,
+      Villanova University. See
+      <a href="http://digital.library.villanova.edu/Item/vudl:267659">
+      http://digital.library.villanova.edu/Item/vudl:267659</a>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 371px;">
+<a href="images/i001large.jpg"><img src="images/i001.jpg" width="371" height="600" alt="" id="coverpage" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+<h2>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+<p class="center">
+
+<a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I. HISTORICAL.</a><br />
+<a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II. DESCRIPTION OF THE LOCOMOTIVE.</a><br />
+<a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III. HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.</a><br />
+<a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV. DUTIES OF AN ENGINEER.</a><br />
+<a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V. HOW TO RUN A TRAIN.</a><br />
+<a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI. HOW TO BUILD A MODEL LOCOMOTIVE.</a><br />
+<a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII. CONCLUSION.</a><br />
+</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+<h1>
+<span class="small">HOW TO BECOME</span><br /><br />
+AN ENGINEER.<br />
+</h1>
+
+<hr class="r5" />
+
+<p class="center">
+Containing Full Instructions How to Proceed in<br />
+Order to Become a Locomotive Engineer;<br />
+Also Directions for Building a Model<br />
+Locomotive; together with a Full<br />
+Description of Everything an<br />
+Engineer Should Know.</p>
+
+<hr class="r5" />
+
+<p class="center large">PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED.</p>
+
+<hr class="r5" />
+
+<p class="center large">
+BY AN OLD ENGINEER ON THE NEW YORK CENTRAL
+RAILROAD.</p>
+
+<hr class="r5" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<span class="smcap">New York</span>:<br />
+<span class="large">FRANK TOUSEY</span>, Publisher<br />
+<span class="smcap">29 West 26th Street</span>.<br />
+</p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+<p class="center">
+Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1898, by<br />
+FRANK TOUSEY,<br />
+in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D.C.<br />
+</p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="How_to_Become_an_Engineer" id="How_to_Become_an_Engineer">How to Become an Engineer.</a></h2>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center">HISTORICAL.</p>
+
+
+<p>To begin a subject properly you must begin at the beginning.</p>
+
+<p>Boys who don't like history need not read this chapter, for
+in it we tell how the steam engine began, and if it never had
+begun, you know, there would never have been any engineers,
+nor any necessity for writing this book.</p>
+
+<p>For two or three generations we have had the story of
+James Watt told us; how when a boy and watching his
+mother's tea-kettle one day he saw the steam lift the lid, and
+that suggested the idea that if a little steam could lift the
+lid of a kettle, a great deal would lift still heavier weights
+and revolutionize the world.</p>
+
+<p>Now they tell us that Watt was not the first one to have
+this idea by several, that it was first suggested by the Marquis
+of Worcester, in his book called the "Century of Inventions,"
+as "a way to drive up water by fire," A. D. 1663.</p>
+
+<p>This was about a hundred years before Watt came on deck,
+but the marquis never put his idea into practice, and Watt
+did, so to the latter the credit belongs.</p>
+
+<p>Here are a few dates:</p>
+
+<p>Watt's invention of the separate condenser, 1765; Watt's
+first patent, 1769; Watt's first working engine introduced
+into a manufactory, 1775; first steam engine erected in Ireland,
+1791; first steamboat run on the Hudson, 1797; first
+steamboat abroad, 1801.</p>
+
+<p>First regular steamboat ever run was from Albany to New
+York. The name of the boat was the North River, her
+builder was Robert Fulton, and she made the passage in 33
+hours.</p>
+
+<p>The first railroad was built in England, in 1811.</p>
+
+<p>The first ocean steamer was the Savannah, an American
+craft of 350 tons, which sailed from New York for Liverpool,
+July 15, 1819, making the voyage in 26 days.</p>
+
+<p>Such were the early beginnings of steam.</p>
+
+<p>There are three principal kinds of engineers, locomotive,
+steamboat and stationary.</p>
+
+<p>In this little book we propose to deal mainly with the
+duties of a locomotive engineer.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>If one is a good locomotive engineer he can easily learn to
+manage the engine of a steamboat; and if he is skilled in
+either of these particulars he will have no difficulty with the
+biggest stationary engine ever built.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i002large.jpg"><img src="images/i002.jpg" width="400" height="274" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The First Locomotive.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The work of the different engineers differs only in detail,
+not in kind.</p>
+
+<p>Let us now glance at the history of the steam horse, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span>
+has done more than any other one thing to revolutionize the
+world.</p>
+
+<p>Be very sure that the locomotive, with its pistons, its spinning
+drive wheels, its polished steel and shining brass, did
+not come into existence all at once.</p>
+
+<p>By no means. Like everything else in the way of mechanical
+invention that attains greatness, the locomotive had an
+insignificant beginning to reach which we shall be obliged to
+get back somewhere about the middle of the last century,
+for then it was that the desire for faster traveling than
+horses can furnish seems to have had its birth.</p>
+
+<p>The first attempt at a railway seems to have been at Colebrook
+Dale, England, a spot celebrated for having the first
+iron bridge in the world&mdash;where a small iron road was constructed
+in connection with some mines; a horse furnished
+the motive power here.</p>
+
+<p>The first railroad then was without a locomotive, and,
+strangely enough the first locomotive was without a railroad
+on which to run.</p>
+
+<p>The first locomotive made its appearance in France. It
+was simply a huge tea kettle on wheels, and was built by
+Joseph Cugnot at Paris in the year 1769.</p>
+
+<p>It is the custom of English writers to ignore Cugnot's invention,
+and claim for themselves the origin of the locomotive;
+but that is only a pleasant way the English usually
+have.</p>
+
+<p>Cugnot's locomotive actually existed though, and was undoubtedly
+the first. It was operated by means of two bronze
+cylinders, into which the steam passed through a tube from
+the boiler&mdash;escaping through another tube.</p>
+
+<p>The boiler was fastened on the front of the car, which
+moved on three wheels&mdash;the steam acted only on the foremost
+wheel.</p>
+
+<p>The speed of Cugnot's locomotive was about three miles
+an hour. On the first trial it ran into a building and was
+broken to pieces.</p>
+
+<p>In 1784 the famous Watt patented a steam locomotive engine
+in England, which, however, never was put to use.</p>
+
+<p>In 1802, Trevethick and Vivian patented a locomotive,
+which, in 1804, traveled at the rate of five miles an hour,
+drawing behind it a load of ten tons of coal.</p>
+
+<p>Several other "traveling engines," as they were then
+styled, were invented by other mechanical engineers with
+only moderate success, it being reserved for Stephenson, in
+1811, to build the first locomotive that should prove of practical
+use.</p>
+
+<p>About this time a man named Thomas Gray, of Nottingham,
+England, brought upon himself the contempt and ridicule<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span>
+of the whole English nation by pushing forward the
+idea of the locomotive in connection with coal mines.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i003large.jpg"><img src="images/i003.jpg" width="400" height="267" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Old No. 1.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>"It is all very well to spend money on these railway
+schemes," said a member of parliament about that time referring
+to Gray's projects, "it will do some good to the poor,
+but I will eat all the coals your railways will ever carry."</p>
+
+<p>127,000,000 tons were carried recently in one year, on
+English railroads alone. What a tough time this parliamentary
+slow coach would have had to swallow all that!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The first practical locomotive in the world&mdash;Stephenson's
+invention, was Old No. 1, which pulled the first regular
+train on the Stockton and Darlington R. R. on Tuesday,
+September 27, 1825.</p>
+
+<p>Old No. 1 cost $2,500 to build. It was a very clumsy affair;
+nothing better, in fact, than a big boiler on four
+wheels, which were moved by great levers worked by pistons
+from the top of the machine.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i004large.jpg"><img src="images/i004.jpg" width="400" height="278" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Rocket.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Old No. 1 has been preserved, and was, in the year 1859,
+placed upon a pedestal in that English town of Darlington
+as a public memorial of the beginning of the railway.</p>
+
+<p>No sooner had the Stockton and Darlington R. R. proved
+itself a success than all England was in arms against it.
+Here are some of the absurd objections urged against railroads,
+taken from the newspapers of the day.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Steam horses were "contrary to nature;" they were
+"damaging to good morals and religion;" the smoke of the
+locomotive would "obscure the sun, and thereby ruin the
+crops." Farmyards and farmhouses would be burned by
+their sparks; the clanking, puffing locomotive would have
+such an effect on the mind as to drive people crazy (this was
+backed up by certificates from a dozen doctors); locomotives
+would cause springs to dry up and fields to become sterile;
+they would create great chasms by constantly running over
+the same ground.</p>
+
+<p>What twaddle!</p>
+
+<p>Yet all their objections were made in good faith, and we
+have by no means selected the most absurd.</p>
+
+<p>Old No. 1. proving too clumsy, a lighter locomotive was
+soon after built by Stephenson, called the "Rocket," which
+we illustrate. It won a prize of $1,500 in 1829, and is still
+preserved in the great locomotive works at Newcastle-on-Tyne,
+England.</p>
+
+<p>The first railroad in America was built from the granite
+quarries of Quincy, Mass., to the Neponset river, a few
+miles distant.</p>
+
+<p>Peter Cooper built one of the first American locomotives.
+It ran on the Baltimore and Ohio R. R., and was called the
+Tom Thumb.</p>
+
+<p>The boiler of the Tom Thumb was built of gun barrels and
+shaped like a huge bottle standing upright upon a simple
+platform car.</p>
+
+<p>Such was the beginning of the locomotive.</p>
+
+<p>In Great Britain alone over 600,000,000 people are annually
+drawn by locomotives.</p>
+
+<p>Add to these figures, which represent only a small island,
+the persons drawn by locomotives in America, Europe, and
+other parts of the world, and the number becomes stupendous
+almost beyond belief.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center">DESCRIPTION OF THE LOCOMOTIVE.</p>
+
+
+<p>In order to become an engineer, the first thing necessary
+is to gain a thorough understanding of the peculiarly complicated
+machine which it is the duty of engineers to control.</p>
+
+<p>This is of the highest importance, and a careful study of
+this chapter and the diagrams accompanying it will be of
+great assistance to anybody who contemplates becoming an
+engineer.</p>
+
+<p>There are locomotives and locomotives, all built on the
+same general plan, but varying in details according to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>
+ideas of their builders, and the class of work which they are
+expected to perform.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i005large.jpg"><img src="images/i005.jpg" width="400" height="140" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">An American Locomotive with Two Driving Wheels.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Thus for elevated roads and short surface lines, devoted
+principally to passenger travel, locomotives of light capacity<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>
+are employed; costing less at the start, and being less expensive
+to run.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i006large.jpg"><img src="images/i006.jpg" width="400" height="188" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">American Locomotive With Four Driving Wheels.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The "dummy" is even a grade below these, being practically
+a stationary engine set on a car with driving wheels
+attached.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i007large.jpg"><img src="images/i007.jpg" width="400" height="217" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Outside View of Locomotive.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i008large.jpg"><img src="images/i008.jpg" width="400" height="204" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Inside View of Locomotive.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In America our locomotives are built with long boilers
+and have a general trim appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Some have two driving wheels, others, still longer, have
+four. We illustrate both of them.</p>
+
+<p>English locomotives present a clumsy appearance alongside
+the American.</p>
+
+<p>For us to attempt to decide which is the best, would be
+the height of presumption.</p>
+
+<p>Certain it is, however, that English locomotives do run
+at a greater average speed than those in the United States.</p>
+
+<p>We will now proceed to describe by tabular arrangement,
+an English locomotive.</p>
+
+<p>This description will practically describe the American locomotive
+as well.</p>
+
+<p>We cannot enter into a detailed description of both for
+want of space, and select therefore the machine which has
+attained to the highest speed.</p>
+
+<p>We will first look at the outside of the locomotive.</p>
+
+<p>1, 2, 3, Barrel of Boiler. 6, Smoke-box. 22, Smoke Stack.
+32, Spring balance.</p>
+
+<p>33, Whistle. 34, Dome. 64, Exhaust pipe. 70, Cab.
+85, Brake blocks. 87, Life guards. 88, Trailing axle and
+wheel. 59, Heading axle and wheel. 54, Driving axle.
+O, Speed indicator. P, Splasher. S, Sand-box. T, Tool-box.
+V, Safety valve. W, Balance-wheel.</p>
+
+<p>Let us now take an inside view of the locomotive. Compare
+the numbers carefully with the cut, and take time to
+think what you are doing, otherwise don't read this part at
+all.</p>
+
+<p>1, 2, 3, Rings arranged telescopically, forming
+barrel of boiler. 4, Solid angle-iron ring. 5, Tube
+plate. 6, Smoke box. 7, Shell, or covering plate.
+8, Foundation ring. 9, Throat plate. 10, Back plate.
+11, Fire door. 12, Covering plate of inside fire-box. 13,
+Tube plate. 14, Back plate. 15, Stays. 16, Mouth-piece.
+17, Stays from inside fire-box to shell plate. 18, Palm stays.
+19, Tubes. 20, Smoke-box door. 21, Pinching screw. 22,
+Chimney. 23, Chimney cap. 24, Blast pipe. 25, Top of
+blast pipe. 26, Balance weight. 27, Wheel spokes. 28,
+Front buffer. 29, Mud plug. 30, Safety valve. 31, Safety lever.
+32, Spring balance. 33, Whistle. 34, Dome. 35, Regulator.
+36, Steam pipes. 37, Elbow pipe. 38, Brick arch. 39, Fire
+bars. 40, Ash pan. 41, Front damper. 42, Back damper.
+43, Frame plate. 44, Iron buffer beam (front). 45, Iron
+buffer beam (back). 46, (See half width plan) cylinder. 47,
+Cylinder posts, valve. 48, Valve chest. 49, Steel motion
+plate. 50, Horn blocks. 51, Axle boxes. 52, Slide bars.
+53, Connecting rod. 54, Crank shaft. 55, Crank shaft, big<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>
+end of. 56, Crank shaft, arm of. 57,
+Expansion link. 58, Weigh-bar shaft.
+59, Valve spindle. 60, Valve rod guide.
+(See half width plan). 61, Pump. 62,
+Delivery pipe. 63, Field pipe. 64, Exhaust
+pipe. 65, Volute spring. 66,
+Draw-bar hook. 67, Lamp iron. 68,
+Oil cup. 69, Oil pipes. 70, Cab. 71,
+Regulator handle. 72, Reversing lever.
+73, Draw-bar. 74, Draw-pin. 75, Steam-brake
+cylinder. 76, Hand-brake. 77,
+Sand-rod. 78, Front damper. 79, Back
+damper. 80, Trailing wheel. 81, Driving
+wheel. 82, Leading wheel. 83,
+Spring. 84, Hand rail. 85, Brake blocks.
+86, Waste water-cocks. 87, Life guard.
+88, Railing axle. 89, Leading axle. Z,
+Lead plug.</p>
+
+<p>43, Frame plate from end to end of
+engine. 44, Iron buffer-beam. 46, Cylinders.
+50, Horn block, to carry axle-box
+and brass. 51, Axle-box and brass.
+52, Slide bars. 53, Connecting-rod. 54,
+Driving axle. 55, Big end of driving
+axle. 56, Arm of driving axle. 59,
+Valve-spindle. 60, Valve-rod guide. 61,
+Pump. 76, Hand brake. 85, Brake
+blocks. 88, Trailing axle. 89, Leading
+axle. 90, Piston rod. 91, Piston head,
+held on the rod by a brass nut. 92,
+Backway eccentric rod. 93, Frontway
+eccentric rod. 94, Eccentric Straps. 95,
+Eccentric sheaves. 96, Tire. 97, Lip
+on tire. 98, Brake irons. 99, Foot
+plating. 100, Transverse stay. A, Water
+space between inside and outside
+fire boxes. B, Slide-block with end of
+pump-ram screwed into the end. C,
+Link motion (see 57, inside view). D,
+Slide valve rod, working guide. H, Inside
+journal, showing how the axle is
+supported inside of frame plates. I,
+Cross-head, solid, with piston rod.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i009large.jpg"><img src="images/i009.jpg" width="400" height="62" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Underneath the Locomotive&mdash;Half Width Plan.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>15, stays in walls of fire-boxes. 18,
+stays from crown plate to covering plate.
+19, tubes. 23, smoke-stack. 40, ash-pan.
+54, crank shaft. 55, big end of crank-shaft.
+56, arm of big end. 34, dome.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 340px;">
+<a href="images/i010large.jpg"><img src="images/i010.jpg" width="340" height="600" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">In Front of the Locomotive Cross-section.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A, water space. F, nave of wheel. P, P, splashers over
+driving wheels. R, right side of engine. L, left side of engine.</p>
+
+<p>75, steam brake handle. 33, whistle handle. 23, smoke
+stack. K, K, weather glasses. O, speed indicator. E, conductor's
+bell. N, oil for cylinder. X, blower handle. R,
+right side of engine. L, left side of engine. M, M, gauge
+glasses.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Some Points About the Locomotive.</span></p>
+
+<p>Here are a few interesting points about this particular
+locomotive which we have just been describing.</p>
+
+<p>It is a single engine on six wheels&mdash;which are well distributed,
+with a large boiler of abundant steam generating power
+with cylinders of great capacity, and driving wheels of
+moderate diameter.</p>
+
+<p>It is accompanied by a tender on six wheels, capable of
+holding a supply of 2,520 gallons of water, and 40 cwt. of coal.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding its great capacity, this tender is so low
+that a tall man may stand on top of the coal without fear of
+being knocked down by bridges.</p>
+
+<p>There are over 47 tons of metal in the locomotive and
+tender.</p>
+
+<p>When they are in full working order the gross weight
+with water and fuel amounts to 59 tons.</p>
+
+<p>This locomotive drew its first train 87 miles in 1 hour
+and 50 minutes.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Differences in Locomotives.</span></p>
+
+<p>It is an old saying and a true one that no two locomotives
+are ever alike, any more than two men are ever alike.</p>
+
+<p>The difference is due not so much to the materials of which
+the locomotive is built as to the method in which they are
+put together, for no two engines were ever put together
+geometrically alike.</p>
+
+<p>They may differ in some simple matter. It may be in the
+casting of the cylinders, in the quality of the copper of the
+fire box, in the valves or in the smoke stack. Whatever the
+difference may be there is still always a difference which is
+bound to affect the running qualities either for better or for
+worse.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center">HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.</p>
+
+
+<p>The boy who aims to become an engineer, if he desires
+success, must make up his mind to two things.</p>
+
+<p>First, that he will, all his life, have plenty of hard work.</p>
+
+<p>Second, that he will, in spite of all obstacles become a
+good engineer.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A boy who looks forward to the honorable calling should
+be of robust health and perfect physically. If these conditions
+do not exist, he should abandon the thought at once,
+and turn his attention to something else.</p>
+
+<p>There is no royal road to engineering any more than there
+is to any other honorable calling.</p>
+
+<p>A position must first be obtained in the round house as
+general helper.</p>
+
+<p>For a time the candidate must content himself with doing
+chores, cleaning up and any odd jobs which are given him to
+do.</p>
+
+<p>At this stage of the game he must cultivate habits of
+observation, be an attentive listener and try to understand
+and remember the "engine talk," that is going on about him.</p>
+
+<p>Everything he learns in this way is going to be of service
+later on.</p>
+
+<p>For the first few months, unless he is fortunate enough to
+gain favor in the eyes of some obliging engineer, no one is
+going to stop to explain matters and he need not expect it.
+Nevertheless there are a thousand and one little things that
+he can pick up if he is shrewd, all of which will come in play
+later on.</p>
+
+<p>When the locomotive is taken out watch how they do it.
+When it comes in keep your eyes open for points, and you
+will be sure to get them. When it breaks down and comes
+in for repairs then is the very time of all others to be on
+hand if you can and watch how they fix it.</p>
+
+<p>Every day will bring its own information&mdash;the boy's work
+is to watch and remember, but he must not ask too many
+questions, and never any at improper times, unless he
+desires the ill-will of everybody in the yard.</p>
+
+<p>By and bye he will be made an oiler, put to cleaning the
+big iron horse and other work of similar sort.</p>
+
+<p>After a time he will slip into a fireman's job, and then he
+must understand that his chance has come. Now all depends
+upon himself.</p>
+
+<p>Make friends with your engineer while you are acting as
+fireman, and learn from him all you can.</p>
+
+<p>The way to make friends is to be industrious, obliging and
+always courteous, no matter how tired you are or how badly
+things seem to go.</p>
+
+<p>The troubles and disappointments of one day should not
+be brought down to the next.</p>
+
+<p>Let every day be a new beginning in itself.</p>
+
+<p>Don't drink.</p>
+
+<p>Don't swear.</p>
+
+<p>Don't lose your temper and flare out under reproof.</p>
+
+<p>Don't shirk your work and try to do as little us you can.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 365px;">
+<a href="images/i011large.jpg"><img src="images/i011.jpg" width="365" height="600" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Behind the Locomotive&mdash;Looking in From the Cab.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Don't say to yourself so and so ain't my work and I ain't
+going to do it. Do whatever your hands find to do and do
+it with all your might.</p>
+
+<p>A model engineer is distinguished by the fullness of his
+knowledge of the engine, and this must be learned while you
+are a fireman&mdash;not after you become an engineer.</p>
+
+<p>He should love his work&mdash;the locomotive should be his
+hobby&mdash;and whatever contributes to enlarge his stock of information
+concerning it should contribute to his happiness.
+Unless he can feel that way, he should promptly step out of
+the cab and turn his attention to some other business, for
+he can never hope to make a good engineer.</p>
+
+<p>On the engine is the only place where one can learn to be
+an engineer.</p>
+
+<p>During the time the engine is under steam with a train,
+everything seen, heard, felt and smelt is capable of affording
+a lesson.</p>
+
+<p>On the engine the eye is trained to distinguish different
+colors at considerable distances. If one is color-blind he cannot
+be a good engineer.</p>
+
+<p>On the engine the ear learns to detect the slightest variation
+in the beats and knocks about the machinery&mdash;to distinguish
+the difference between the knock of an axle box and
+the knock of a journal.</p>
+
+<p>On the engine the body learns to distinguish the shocks,
+oscillations, etc., which are due to a defective road from
+those which arise from a defective engine. The olfactory
+nerves became very sensitive so as to detect the generation
+of heat from friction before any mischief is done.</p>
+
+<p>It is only while an engine is in steam and going at good
+speed that the rocks, coral-reefs and sand-banks on railways
+can be seen and learned, and the value of and the rank acquired
+by an engineer are in exact proportion to the pains
+he takes to find them out, and to remark their dangerous
+position on his chart.</p>
+
+<p>A model engineer can tell you all about any particular engine
+he happens to see merely by glancing at it.</p>
+
+<p>He will be able to say this was built by so and so. I know
+it by this crank, that piston. "Look here," he says, "that
+rod was built when I was a boy, it's all out of date now,
+consequently the engine must have been built in such a year."</p>
+
+<p>In short the model engineer should be familiar with the
+history of locomotive engines from Old No. 1 down to date.</p>
+
+<p>The model engineer is always a good fireman.</p>
+
+<p>A man may be a first-rate mechanic, he may have worked
+at the best class of machinery, he may have built engines
+and have read all the published books on the locomotive,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>
+and yet, if he is not a good hand at the coal shovel, he will
+never be a first-class engineer.</p>
+
+<p>A good fireman knows when to put on coal, how and where
+and just how much. A man may be the best mechanic the
+world ever saw and know nothing of these things which are
+the very all essentials of a good engineer.</p>
+
+<p>A model engineer is clean himself, and his engine is
+cleaner.</p>
+
+<p>Cleanliness is said to be next to godliness. Upon a railroad
+it may with truth be said that cleanliness is next below
+the highest talent and next above the length of service.</p>
+
+<p>A clean engineer frequently scales the ladder of progress
+much faster than a dirty one, although the latter may have
+everything else in his favor.</p>
+
+<p>A model engineer runs the most important trains, and he
+is never the man who wore the greasy, dirty cap or the coat
+and trousers all smeared with oil.</p>
+
+<p>What is the secret of constant successful engine driving?</p>
+
+<p>Not length of service, not because a man has served so
+many years on freight trains and so many more on passenger
+trains, for the best engineers are ever those who have been
+promoted over the heads of others for their smartness.</p>
+
+<p>Promotion according to merit should be the invariable
+rule on railroads. Seniority should have nothing to do with
+it. The position is too important, there are too many lives
+at stake, too much money involved to make it right or
+proper to push one man forward beyond another simply because
+of the length of his service. That sort of thing is all
+right for ordinary business, but for engine driving it won't
+do.</p>
+
+<p>Merit tells.</p>
+
+<p>To the best engineer belong the best trains.</p>
+
+<p>Chance never built an engine, and it should have nothing
+to do with running it.</p>
+
+<p>Yet the opposite way of doing things is the general rule.</p>
+
+<p>Engineer A retires, dies or is killed, and Engineer B is
+promoted because he happens to be next on the list. He
+may be a dull, stupid fellow, and Engineer C as bright as a
+dollar, but in the chance death of A, B gets the prize, and
+everybody that has any interest in the successful running
+of his train becomes the loser thereby.</p>
+
+<p>Engine driving, to be good, must be based upon rules and
+principles.</p>
+
+<p>He who strictly observes them wins; he who don't, loses.
+With the latter all is uncertainty; the hand trembles upon
+the regulator, the eye watches with painful anxiety the
+needle of the pressure gauge, and gazes into the fire to find<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>
+out its deficiencies, but gains nothing but blindness by the
+attempt.</p>
+
+<p>With the engineer who has a reason for every act performed,
+either by himself or his fireman, all is different. He
+works by rules and principles that have proved themselves
+a thousand times over to be safe, practical and certain in
+their results.</p>
+
+<p>Sound rules and principles are absolutely sure in the
+effects of their application&mdash;not right to-day and wrong to-morrow;
+not right in a short trip and all astray on a long
+one; not right on one particular engine and wrong on another;
+not right on the first part of the run and wrong at
+the end; not right with one kind of coal and wrong with
+another, but <i>always right, every time</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Under the guidance of sound rules and principles, the
+mind of the driver is full, and he is enabled, under all circumstances,
+to handle the regulator with confidence, to
+travel with a boiler full of steam, and to finish with success.</p>
+
+<p>In a word, these are rules and principles which lead up to
+and make the success of an engineer.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center">DUTIES OF AN ENGINEER.</p>
+
+
+<p>Let us now consider in detail some of the more important
+duties of an engineer.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">The Notice Board.</span></p>
+
+<p>Before going to his engine an engineer should, for his own
+safety, as well as that of the public, visit the special and
+general notice boards and post himself fully upon the running
+of the trains for the day. By neglecting this more than
+one engineer has lost his life.</p>
+
+<p>An anecdote bearing on this is related on good authority,
+as follows:</p>
+
+<p>"By incessant rain a river had become so swollen that,
+owing to the rush of water, the spiles of a wooden railway
+bridge became shifted.</p>
+
+<p>"The bridge was inspected, and one side of it pronounced
+to be dangerous. Arrangements were made to use only one
+track until repairs could be made, and notice of such arrangements
+posted in the round-house.</p>
+
+<p>"The engineer neglected to visit the notice board, ran his
+train past the man appointed to pilot him over the break,
+got his train off the track, and was killed."</p>
+
+<p>After the engineer has read the notices and made himself
+thoroughly acquainted with them, he may proceed to his engine&mdash;not
+before.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Inspection of the Engine.</span></p>
+
+<p>When on the foot plate the first thing an engineer wants
+to do is to inspect his engine in every part.</p>
+
+<p>Begin with the water in the gauge glass and ascertain its
+level and find out whether it correctly indicates the height
+of the water in the boiler by opening the lower cock in the
+usual manner.</p>
+
+<p>Satisfied that the boiler is safe, the engineer must assume
+the responsibility of looking after it, for should anything prove
+wrong afterward, he alone can be called to account.</p>
+
+<p>He should also observe what pressure of steam there is in
+the boiler, what is the condition of the fire, how much coal
+there is in the tender and its quality, and lastly that the
+water supply is all right.</p>
+
+<p>If the inspection is made properly all will go well; if in a
+half-hearted, slip-shod fashion trouble is sure to follow.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Inspection of an Engine over a Pit.</span></p>
+
+<p>It is a good and a safe rule to examine an engine over a
+pit before starting out. When this is done properly and
+regularly, the habit is unmistakably the mark of a good
+engineer.</p>
+
+<p>That an engine may be properly examined over a pit, it is
+necessary that it should be placed in such a position that
+every part of it may be seen and inspected without having
+the machinery moved.</p>
+
+<p>The examination, to be complete, should be commenced
+at one specified point, and continued all around the engine,
+until the engineer returns to the place where he began.</p>
+
+<p>In general, the only tools needed are wrenches.</p>
+
+<p>The inspection should begin at the trailing engine axle, on
+the engineer's side, and the best rule is to examine everything,
+not forgetting the fact that more engines break down
+in consequence of bolts and split pins working out than
+from any other cause.</p>
+
+<p>After the engineer's side has been properly examined, the
+under side of the engine next claims attention. The engineer
+should begin at the crank shaft, taking his stand, where
+it is possible to do so, between the shaft and the fire box,
+while he is testing the bolts and rivets connected with it.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Big Ends.</span></p>
+
+<p>Big Ends require to be fitted brass and brass, to work
+well, and to be well-cottered or bolted up, but with sufficient
+slackness on the crank bearing to allow of their being easily
+moved sideways by hand, so that a little room may be left
+for the expansion of the journal by heat.</p>
+
+<p>Big End brasses do best, wear longest, and knock least,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>
+when tightened up a little at a time and often, instead of
+being allowed to run until they thump alarmingly. With
+proper attention they seldom run hot.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Little Ends.</span></p>
+
+<p>Little Ends need scarcely any supervision excepting what
+is required from the oiler, provided they are fitted with steel
+bushes. Those fitted with brasses require the same attention
+as Big Ends.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Eccentrics.</span></p>
+
+<p>When the eccentrics are being examined particular attention
+should be paid to the bolts, nuts, safety-cotters and set-pins.
+The bolts which hold the two halves of each eccentric
+strap together should always nip tightly, as any slackness
+always affects the engine's speed.</p>
+
+<p>Inspect carefully also the inside springs and axle boxes,
+specially the latter. See that the fireman oils them; if he
+does not, you are to blame.</p>
+
+<p>The ash-pan, piston rod, smoke box, etc., all need to be
+looked at with care, for to run right the engine must start
+right, and this brings us to the most important thing of all&mdash;the
+condition of the fire before leaving the round house,
+for there is no other one thing on which an engineer's good
+name, success and future prospects depend so much as on
+the condition of the fire at the beginning of the day's work.</p>
+
+<p>If the fire is not properly lighted at the start, no matter
+how good the engine or how smart the engineer, constant
+trouble during the trip, to say nothing of an increased consumption
+of coal which is bound to tell against him, will be
+the result.</p>
+
+<p>Don't get to your work late, and don't allow your fireman
+to be late. If the fire is to be properly built he has got to
+take time to it. Fires thrown together in a hurry always
+turn out bad.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Duties of a Fireman.</span></p>
+
+<p>As the model engineer must first have served as fireman,
+let us say a word on that score.</p>
+
+<p>Before a fireman can serve on a passenger train, he should
+have served awhile as freight brakeman, or in the yard
+shifting cars. Before going on an express train, he must
+have run on slow trains as fireman. All this is necessary
+that he may acquire a knowledge of the petty details of his
+work.</p>
+
+<p>A superintendent who puts a green hand at firing certainly
+exhibits a great want of good judgment, to say the least,
+and just this has often been the cause of serious accidents
+and loss of life.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Here are a few things that a man must know before he can
+become an engineer:</p>
+
+<p>1. How to make up a proper fire in a locomotive fire-box.</p>
+
+<p>2. How to handle the shovel when the engine is running.</p>
+
+<p>3. How to learn roads and signals.</p>
+
+<p>4. How to calculate the effect of the weather on the
+rails.</p>
+
+<p>5. How to manage an engine and train on varying
+grades.</p>
+
+<p>6. How to have full control of an engine and train at full
+speed.</p>
+
+<p>7. How to work the steam expansively and yet keep
+time.</p>
+
+<p>8. How to regulate the water supply.</p>
+
+<p>9. How to read the gauges at a glance and understand
+just what they mean.</p>
+
+<p>Now all these things have got to be learned while a fireman,
+for unless you know them you can never become an
+engineer.</p>
+
+<p>Some engineers will give no instructions. They demand
+certain results, and if the fireman don't do just what they
+expect because he does not understand what is wanted, they
+call him a fool, snatch the shovel out of his hand and do the
+work themselves.</p>
+
+<p>It is the engineer who is the fool in this case, and doubly
+so if he loses his temper and swears.</p>
+
+<p>Certainly it is very hard for a sensitive young man to
+learn of such a master, but after all it is good discipline.</p>
+
+<p>Never mind if you are sworn at and dubbed an idiot. No
+matter if you do choke a few fires and stop a few trains.
+Persevere! Keep your temper, watch how the engineer does
+it and try to do the same yourself next time. Show him
+that you are not the idiot he has called you, prove that you
+are no fool by your patience and perseverance&mdash;qualities,
+like enough, which he himself does not possess.</p>
+
+<p>A first class engineer, however, will show a new fireman
+just what he wants done and how to do it.</p>
+
+<p>Here are a few lines from an excellent manual on engineering,
+describing the conduct of a good engineer to his fireman.
+Read them with care:</p>
+
+<p>"With good engineers an awkward fireman soon changes
+his habits and appearance&mdash;he gets the knots dressed off of
+him, as it were. Has he been taught to come on duty dirty
+and late? He is sharply reproved, and very properly too.
+Does he throw the fire irons down anywhere after using
+them? He is told there is a place for everything in that
+engine. Is he dirty about his work? He is shown how to
+handle the shovel, oil feeder and everything else without<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span>
+blackening himself to such a degree that a boy in the street
+mistakes him for a chimney sweep. Thanks to such engineers,
+who deserve much praise for keeping their firemen
+in proper training, for, just as they <i>are</i> trained so will they
+turn out engineers, good or bad."</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center">HOW TO RUN A TRAIN.</p>
+
+
+<p>A good engineer works his engine with direct reference to
+the number of cars he has to pull.</p>
+
+<p>It would seem as though any fool might know this, yet instances
+are on record where careless engineers have actually
+pulled out of a station without their trains, and never discovered
+that they were missing until they had occasion to
+whistle for brakes.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Starting.</span></p>
+
+<p>In starting the regulator should be opened gently, especially
+with a full boiler.</p>
+
+<p>Care is necessary when starting to keep the cylinders and
+valves clear of water. Half a pint of water will wash the
+faces of the cylinders and valves. Slip or no slip, it is better
+to use a little sand than to incur the risk of slipping when
+the rails are inclined to be slippery.</p>
+
+<p>When the engine begins to feel its load the regulator can
+be opened more. A few clear, sonorous puffs at the start do
+good; they rouse the fire into action at once&mdash;there is no
+hesitation in the matter. They also clear the tubes of loose
+cinders and soot left in them after being swept out.</p>
+
+<p>When you are well under way pull the lever up a notch or
+two at a time until you get it just where you want it. Don't
+jerk it too far, then let it out too much and have to pull it
+back. Feel your way as you go, and time and trouble will
+be saved.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing looks so bad as to see an engineer suddenly close
+the regulator, pull the lever very nearly out of gear and
+"smack" the steam on again. The force with which the steam
+may strike the piston under such circumstances is very great
+and often may do damage.</p>
+
+<p>To an attentive engineer the start is full of interest; for,
+although he may have made a careful and thorough examination
+of his engine before joining his train, he cannot feel
+satisfied that all is right until the full pressure of the steam
+is on the piston and the engine feels its load.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Steam Blowing.</span></p>
+
+<p>Now the engineer must begin to use his ears and eyes.</p>
+
+<p>As the train moves on he listens.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Is the steam blowing?</p>
+
+<p>It is.</p>
+
+<p>Which side?</p>
+
+<p>This is the way to find out.</p>
+
+<p>Suppose a blow is heard at each turn and only when the
+outside crank is nearly in a straight line with the piston rod
+looking from the left-hand side of the foot-plate and with the
+outside cranks on the same center line and on the same side
+of the axle as the inside crank.</p>
+
+<p>Then it would be discovered that a piston is blowing because
+the sound is intermittent, for the blowing through of a
+valve would be a continuous leaking.</p>
+
+<p>Further it would be certain that the defect was not in the
+left hand cylinder, there being no steam in it when the
+cranks were in the position above described, and therefore
+we must look to the right hand cylinder where the full pressure
+of steam must be on the piston.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Beats of the Engine.</span></p>
+
+<p>There are four beats for one revolution of the driving
+wheel or the crank axle.</p>
+
+<p>These beats tell you in emphatic language whether the engine
+is running right, or whether there is something out of
+gear.</p>
+
+<p>Learn what they mean and never let your attention be
+drawn from them.</p>
+
+<p>If the beats weaken&mdash;any one of them&mdash;it means trouble.
+Taken in time the difficulty may be easily remedied, allowed
+to pass unnoticed, death and disaster may result.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Keeping up Steam.</span></p>
+
+<p>It is scarcely necessary to state that to properly run your
+engine steam must be kept up.</p>
+
+<p>When the engine has got the train up to speed, steam
+should begin to issue from the safety valves. When it does
+not do so there has not been a full boiler, as there always
+should be at the start and the fireman must be made to understand
+how to make a starting fire in proper shape.</p>
+
+<p>On short runs this does not matter so much, but on express
+trains it is of the highest importance.</p>
+
+<p>On long runs if the engine is not instantly up to the mark
+at the start, and if the feeds must be held off to allow the
+fire and the engine a chance of recovery, the consequences
+are that the water in the boiler gets lower and less, and the
+uncertainty of ever getting the water up again becomes
+greater every minute, especially with a heavy train and
+against a strong side wind.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Management of Fires.</span></p>
+
+<p>Of course the state of the steam depends altogether upon
+the way the fires are managed, but for us to give directions
+how to manage a locomotive fire-box to the best advantage
+would require pages of description which could scarcely be
+understood unless one had had previous practical experience.</p>
+
+<p>Remember one thing, the engineer is responsible for the
+fire, even if he does not make it. He must therefore know
+when a fire is good and when it is bad, <i>why</i> and <i>what to do</i>.</p>
+
+<p>We shall, however, describe two styles of fire, the thoroughly
+bad and the thoroughly good. All intermediate grades
+every man must learn for himself.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">How To Build a Bad Fire.</span></p>
+
+<p>Pile your coal up in the shape of a cone, by shoveling all
+the coal into the middle of the fire box, and putting as little
+on the sides as you possibly can.</p>
+
+<p>Such a fire possesses the following characteristics: Uncertainty
+as regards steam making, positive certainty as regards
+the destruction of fire boxes and tubes. It generally
+draws air at the walls of the fire-box, and in consequence,
+the fire-irons are always in the fire, knocking it
+about and wasting the fuel.</p>
+
+<p>As such fires are found in the center of the grate, they
+weigh down the bars and burn them out in the middle in
+short order. Lastly, the cold air being admitted into the
+fire-box up the sides instead of in the middle, comes in direct
+contact with the heated plates and stays, doing them a
+great deal of damage by causing contraction and expansion.</p>
+
+<p>Take the best engine ever built and let an engineer run it
+awhile with these "haycock" fires, as they are called&mdash;and
+many do it&mdash;you will be sure to find the boiler subject to sudden
+leakage, either in the joints of the plates or in the stays,
+the tubes, or the foundation ring. Such engines are always
+in the repair shop, and because of bad firing and nothing
+else.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">How to Build a Good Fire.</span></p>
+
+<p>The good locomotive fire should maintain steam under all
+circumstances of load or weather, should consume its own
+smoke, should burn up every particle of good matter in the
+coal, or, in other words, capable of being worked to the
+highest point of economy.</p>
+
+<p>Such a fire requires to be made at the beginning, and
+maintained in a form almost resembling the inside of a saucer,
+shallow and concave, with its thinnest part in the center.</p>
+
+<p>A fire like this will make steam when other fires will make
+none.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It is the only style of fire that should be permitted by a
+good engineer.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Firing.</span></p>
+
+<p>To fire properly the fireman should stand in such a position
+as to be able to reach the coals in the tender easily, and to
+work the shovel without shifting his feet, except when he
+turns slightly on his heels, first, toward the coal, and then
+toward the fire hole.</p>
+
+<p>If a fireman, in the act of firing, lifts his feet off the foot
+plate, he will roll about, and the firing will be improperly
+done, in consequence of the coal being knocked off the
+shovel by the latter catching against the fire hole ring or depletion
+plate.</p>
+
+<p>Don't jam the shovel into the fire-box&mdash;stop it dead at the
+fire-hole ring. Give the coals a fling, discharging them like
+shot right into their intended destination.</p>
+
+<p>Don't jam your shovel into the coal and load it down as
+much as possible. A few lumps of coal lying nicely on the
+body of the shovel can be handled better. The shovel should
+not be pushed into the coal by the knees, but should be
+worked only by the muscles of the arm.</p>
+
+<p>Throw the first shovelful of coal into the left hand front
+corner, the second shovelful in the right hand front corner,
+the third shovelful in the right hand back corner, the fourth
+shovelful in the left hand back corner, the fifth shovelful under
+the brick arch, close to the tube plate; the sixth and last
+shovelful under the door. To land this one properly the
+shovel must enter the fire-box and should be turned over
+sharp to prevent the coals falling in the center of the grate
+or the fire.</p>
+
+<p>Now comes the question when to fire.</p>
+
+<p>To fire properly, with the greatest effect in saving fuel, it
+should be done as soon as the steam begins to lift the valves,
+when by opening the fire-door and putting on a small quantity
+of coal the steam is checked sufficiently to prevent its
+being wasted by blowing off.</p>
+
+<p>Some engineers have an idea that unless the steam blows
+off furiously they have not done their duty by the engine.</p>
+
+<p>A big mistake this.</p>
+
+<p>When steam, water and fuel are being thrown away
+through the safety valves, it is a positive proof of the existence
+of either one or the other of the following evils:</p>
+
+<p>Either the engine is too small for its work or too great for
+its man, and both the engine and the man would do better
+on short runs; the former until it could be doctored, or the
+latter until he had learned to bottle his noise.</p>
+
+<p>The intervals between the rounds of firing, which should<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>
+consist of six shovelfuls only each time the door is opened,
+is in every case regulated by the weight of the train or load,
+the state of the weather and the time allowed for running
+the trip, together with the quality of coal.</p>
+
+<p>The greatest possible mistake on an engine is putting on
+too much coal. The fire is choked, clinkers are formed, the
+temperature of the boiler is reduced, contraction and expansion
+sets in and leaks are formed&mdash;in a word everything goes
+wrong.</p>
+
+<p>The secret of good firing is to fire frequently, a little at a
+time.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Feeding.</span></p>
+
+<p>Having discussed fire, let us now consider the other element
+upon which the locomotive lives&mdash;water.</p>
+
+<p>The maintainance of steam in proper shape requires a
+knowledge of how and when to feed.</p>
+
+<p>The aim in feeding should be to regulate, as nearly as possible,
+the supply to the demand&mdash;just sufficient to keep the
+water at a proper level in the glass.</p>
+
+<p>This keeps up an even temperature in the boiler plates,
+tubes and fire-box, and this has much to do with the service
+of an engine. Many engineers always work their feed in the
+precise way to get the worst results.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the boiler is full of steam and blowing off they
+turn on the pump full and keep it on until the steam is from
+30 to 50 pounds below the maximum pressure before turning
+it off.</p>
+
+<p>This method is the very worst possible. What is wanted
+is a constant moderate supply of water, keeping the pressure
+as nearly even as possible. Nothing can beat this.</p>
+
+<p>When injectors are used one of them should be screwed
+down so that it will act moderately like a pump. This will
+save the water which is usually lost in turning injector on
+and off.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">On the Foot-plate.</span></p>
+
+<p>When the train is under full headway the engineer should
+stand in his proper place on the foot-plate so as to be able
+to command the regulator and reversing valve at an instant's
+notice.</p>
+
+<p>Especially is this necessary at night, when the engineer's
+attention should always be on his engine, listening constantly
+to its beats to detect any irregularity which may arise
+from some defect in the machinery, frequently casting his
+eyes on the pressure gauge, and on the level of the water in
+the gauge glass.</p>
+
+<p>When the fireman puts on coal, the engineer should look
+round occasionally, to be sure that he is doing it right, placing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>
+the coal next to the walls of the fire-box, and not piling
+them in a heap in the middle.</p>
+
+<p>When the rails are slippery, great care is required to prevent
+the engine from slipping, by closing the regulator in
+time.</p>
+
+<p>When about to enter a tunnel, the sand valves should be
+opened, and the sand allowed to flow freely until the train
+emerges from the tunnel&mdash;sand is cheaper than steam.</p>
+
+<p>Never forget that lives and property depend upon the
+faithful performance of your work.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center">HOW TO BUILD A MODEL LOCOMOTIVE.</p>
+
+
+<p>As a preparatory step toward becoming an engineer, it is
+highly desirable for the boy who looks forward to that honorable
+calling to familiarize himself with the different parts of
+the locomotive engine. This we have stated before.</p>
+
+<p>There is no better way to accomplish it than to build a
+model locomotive.</p>
+
+<p>At first glance this may seem to be among the things impossible,
+but it is not so, providing the boy has a mechanical
+turn, and any boy who has not better not think of becoming
+an engineer.</p>
+
+<p>We now propose to give simple and accurate directions
+for building a model locomotive, accompanying the same
+with a series of illustrations, which we trust will be sufficient
+for the purpose intended.</p>
+
+<p>Before beginning we have one word of caution to offer.</p>
+
+<p>Don't do your work in a hurry. Don't calculate on the
+length of time it is going to take you to do it. Make up
+your mind to understand each detail before you begin, and
+to work slowly and carefully.</p>
+
+<p>If you remember this you will probably be able to build
+your locomotive. If you forget it you certainly will fail.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">How to Begin.</span></p>
+
+<p>First of all in building a model locomotive, as in every
+other class of engineering work, it is necessary to get the
+measurements correct in spacing out the different parts to
+be joined together; and do not think that because it is only
+a model you are making that any off-hand way will do, because
+you will find before the engine is half finished that
+great accuracy is necessary if you wish your model to work.</p>
+
+<p>A slight mistake in the measurements of a large engine
+will cause so much friction as to take half its power to overcome.
+The same mistake with your model will stop it entirely.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In soldering be careful to get the metal thoroughly heated.
+You will then get a firm joint&mdash;otherwise not.</p>
+
+<table summary="scaffold" style="min-width: 50%;">
+<tr><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 123px;">
+<a href="images/i012large.jpg"><img src="images/i012.jpg" width="123" height="300" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 1.</div>
+</div>
+</td><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 92px;">
+<a href="images/i013large.jpg"><img src="images/i013.jpg" width="92" height="300" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 3.</div>
+</div>
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 64px;">
+<a href="images/i014large.jpg"><img src="images/i014.jpg" width="64" height="300" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 4.</div>
+</div>
+</td><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 73px;">
+<a href="images/i015large.jpg"><img src="images/i015.jpg" width="73" height="300" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 6.</div>
+</div>
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>In giving these directions we assume that the boy who
+will undertake to follow them is accustomed to the use of
+tools to some extent. If not, he will have to learn as he advances
+by repeated experiments.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Try your experiments on something else. In soldering, for
+instance, solder pieces of brass together until you learn to
+make a joint.</p>
+
+<p>Don't try your experiments on your model, or you will
+grow discouraged before you are half through.</p>
+
+<p>A word more about soldering.</p>
+
+<p>Do not touch the metal with the soldering-iron and then
+take it away. You might be able to solder in that way but
+the joint would not hold, but fall apart at the first pressure
+or slight blow.</p>
+
+<p>Soldering on the best work should be used very seldom,
+and all the fastenings should be either done by riveting,
+screwing or brazing, and it is hardly necessary to remark
+that no part of a boiler should be soldered which comes in
+contact with the flame of the lamp or furnace.</p>
+
+<p>Brazing had better not be attempted by any boy who has
+not been practically taught the art, unless it be on small
+joints.</p>
+
+<p>To braze the seams of a model boiler would require a
+forge fire, or a very powerful gas blast&mdash;too expensive for
+the amateur. Small things such as a broken slide valve,
+rod, etc., can be brazed by using a gas blowpipe.</p>
+
+<p>This will cost but little to make, and as it will be useful,
+we explain. See Fig. 1.</p>
+
+<p>To make a blowpipe such as is pictured in Fig. 1, first get
+a small piece of brass tube, A, of about half an inch diameter,
+and 5 inches long. Drill a hole at 2 inches from one end, and
+insert a piece of gas pipe, B, soldering it in place.</p>
+
+<p>Now take a glass tube a quarter of an inch in diameter and
+7 inches long, hold one end in a gas flame, and when red-hot
+draw it out to a fine point, then file round and break off
+the tip, leaving a small hole.</p>
+
+<p>Now take a sound cork and squeeze it into the tube A as
+at C, drill a quarter inch hole through its center, insert the
+glass tube D, and the blow pipe is finished.</p>
+
+<p>To use it you connect the pipe B with a gas bracket by
+means of a rubber tube, and attach the glass tube D to a
+pair of bellows by means of another piece of rubber tubing.
+The bellows should have an air-bag attached. Otherwise
+you will have a jerky, uncertain flame.</p>
+
+<p>When you want to braze any article, bind the parts together
+with some very fine brass wire and cover with a little
+powdered borax and water; then lay the article on a piece of
+charcoal, and if it is necessary to preserve the temper of the
+steel you are about brazing, cut a potato in half and push
+each end of the steel rod into the halves, which will keep the
+temperature from getting too high.</p>
+
+<p>Then turn on the gas and start your blow pipe, at the same<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>
+time working the bellows with your foot, and by either pushing
+in the glass tube D, or drawing it slightly out, you can
+regulate the shape of the flame as required.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i016large.jpg"><img src="images/i016.jpg" width="400" height="234" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 2.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 99px;">
+<a href="images/i019large.jpg"><img src="images/i019.jpg" width="99" height="225" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 11.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 149px;">
+<a href="images/i017large.jpg"><img src="images/i017.jpg" width="149" height="150" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 5.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 157px; clear: none;">
+<a href="images/i018large.jpg"><img src="images/i018.jpg" width="157" height="150" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 7.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 87px; clear: none;">
+<a href="images/i020large.jpg"><img src="images/i020.jpg" width="87" height="225" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 8.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 142px; clear: none;">
+<a href="images/i021large.jpg"><img src="images/i021.jpg" width="142" height="150" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 12.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div style="clear: both;"><!-- empty --></div>
+
+<p>Now bring the flame to bear on the joint you wish to
+braze, having first supplied plenty of borax. Soon you will<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>
+find the brass wire melting and running into the joint like
+water. It must then be neatly filled up and the joint will be
+scarcely visible.</p>
+
+<p>Here are a few tools which will be useful to you in this
+work.</p>
+
+<p>A center punch, or steel spike for mashing metal for drilling,
+etc., and a small riveting hammer. Three or four files
+of different degrees of fineness, a screw plate and taps, a
+small hand-drill with a set of drills to fit and a good firm vise.</p>
+
+<p>A lathe is of course desirable. Curves for bending metal
+you can easily make from pieces of bar-iron, holding them
+in the vise while working on them.</p>
+
+<p>When you have your tools ready get the material for your
+model.</p>
+
+<p>Several sheets of brass and copper, the castings and various
+sized screws and bolts are what will be required.</p>
+
+<p>All being thus prepared the time has arrived to take the</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">First Step.</span></p>
+
+<p>The first step toward building a model locomotive is to be
+posted on the action of steam in the cylinder.</p>
+
+<p>Go to encyclopedia and read up on that point.</p>
+
+<p>If you have no encyclopedia go and look one up in some
+library. You can't build your engine until you understand
+this.</p>
+
+<p>Next draw an accurate plan of your model.</p>
+
+<p>Figure 2 is the idea. It is a side view of our locomotive.
+Let us describe.</p>
+
+<p>A. Boiler.</p>
+
+<p>B. Smoke-stack.</p>
+
+<p>C. Screwhead, to fill boiler with water.</p>
+
+<p>D. Steam chest with safety valve attached on top.</p>
+
+<p>E. Whistle.</p>
+
+<p>F. Steam tap to start the engine with.</p>
+
+<p>H. H. Leading and trailing wheels.</p>
+
+<p>I. Driving wheel.</p>
+
+<p>K. Cylinders.</p>
+
+<p>L. Frame.</p>
+
+<p>M. Buffers.</p>
+
+<p>N. Set thumbscrew to fasten on the tender.</p>
+
+<p>O. The lamp.</p>
+
+<p>P. Tap, used to ascertain the quantity of water in the
+boiler.</p>
+
+<p>R. S. Hand rail.</p>
+
+<p>To all locomotives there are three principal parts, the
+frame work, or carriage, the engine, or cylinders, and parts
+connected with them, and the boiler.</p>
+
+<p>Our model shall be a fifteen inch one.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Laying out Materials</span></p>
+
+<p>is the next thing in order. First we want a sheet of brass
+for the bed plate, 1/16th of an inch thick, cut 4×14 inches,
+and be sure to cut the corners square. (See Figure 3.)</p>
+
+<p>Hammer this out flat, file it smooth and dress up, with
+emery cloth fastened upon a flat piece of wood.</p>
+
+<p>Next cut a square hole in it as at C, beginning half an
+inch from B, and making the opening 11 × 1-1/2 inches. Be
+careful to center this hole on the line A B, or your engine
+will be lopsided, and you must take the same care in setting
+the smoke stack, dome, etc.</p>
+
+<p>Now take Fig. 4. This represents one of the side frames.
+Cut these out now, thus:</p>
+
+<p>Drill holes at A B C for the axles to work in. Finish both
+sides the same way. Turn the bed plate upside down, fasten
+the frames on at a quarter of an inch from either side by
+small angle pieces (Fig. 5), or by soldering, which is easier
+done. Then solder a piece across each end, about half an
+inch deep, and the frame is ready for the wheels.</p>
+
+<p>These you can make if you have a lathe, but it would be
+better to buy your wheels ready made if you can, but if you
+can't do that, and have the lathe, turn your tires up to the
+form shown in Fig. 6.</p>
+
+<p>The small wheels should be about 2-1/2 inches in diameter,
+and the driving wheels, 4 inches. The rim, B, should project
+a little over 1/16th of an inch, and the rest of the edge
+should be beveled off rightly, as at A.</p>
+
+<p>The spokes should then be filed up smooth, drilling out
+the center hole for the axle before removing it from the
+lathe.</p>
+
+<p>Great care must be taken to turn both the driving wheels
+to exactly the same diameter, or one wheel would travel further
+in a revolution than the other, and as they ought both
+to be fixed rigidly on the crank shaft, the engine would never
+travel in a straight line, but would go round and round in a
+circle.</p>
+
+<p>Get some steel wire for the axles and fasten them to the
+wheels by soldering or by cutting a slot with a fine file in the
+center of the wheel, as at A, Fig. 7. Then file a small portion
+of the ends of the axle flat and drive in a brass wedge
+made by a piece of wire which will hold them together
+firmly.</p>
+
+<p>The crank shaft, or axle, must be hammered up to shape,
+making it hot occasionally in the gas flame while working
+it.</p>
+
+<p>The cranks should be at right angles to each other, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>
+the throw of the crank half the distance of the cylinder
+stroke.</p>
+
+<p>For instance, say the cylinder being a 1-1/2 inch stroke, the
+distance between A B (Fig. 8) will be three-quarters of an
+inch, you must then ease the size of the crank at A to prevent
+the piston knocking the cylinder ends.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i022large.jpg"><img src="images/i022.jpg" width="400" height="121" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 9.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The cylinders you had better buy ready made or have them
+made for you. Get a pair of oscillating cylinders of three-quarter
+inch bore and inch and a half stroke. These will
+drive your engines several miles an hour.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Fig. 9 gives an underneath view of the frame work and the
+place to put the cylinders in. They must be supported by
+two lugs, A A, screwed to the bed plate B, which must have
+a piece cut out on either side to allow the driving wheels C,
+to work in, as at D; because, being larger than the others,
+they project beyond the top of the bed plate, as shown in
+Fig. 2.</p>
+
+<p>Next screw on by means of the hook F, the buffer beam,
+previously cut from a piece of mahogany, 5 inches long, half
+an inch thick and one inch deep, nicely squared and sand
+papered. Drill a hole at G, and pass the shank of the hook
+through the beam and piece of brass in front of the frame,
+screwing up tight with nut H.</p>
+
+<p>For buffers you may take two brass, flat-headed screws,
+and attach them to the beam half an inch from either end,
+allowing half an inch projection.</p>
+
+<p>Now polish everything smooth and bright. Next warm
+the model over the gas&mdash;don't let it get hot&mdash;and carefully
+lacquer it with a small brush taking care not to go over any
+part more than once. The spokes of the wheels must be
+painted, the buffer beams varnished and the cylinders painted,
+leaving the covers and flanges bright. Now put away your
+work to dry, covering carefully from dust.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">How to Make the Boiler.</span></p>
+
+<p>In making the boiler you can't be too careful. This is the
+part where the greatest chance for failure comes in.</p>
+
+<p>Buy a piece of copper tubing 11 inches long, 3 inches wide
+and half an inch in diameter.</p>
+
+<p>If you want to make it yourself bend your copper round a
+wooden roller and rivet or solder together&mdash;riveting is the
+best if you can get it tight. You must then turn two circles
+of brass about an eighth of an inch thick for the ends and
+polish all. Fig 10 gives you the idea.</p>
+
+<p>Now push the ends into either end of the tube about an
+eighth of an inch from the edge, as at A, Fig. 11, and solder
+in place. The projecting flange must be hammered down
+all around as at B, soldered and finished with a half round
+file. When filing solder use only an old worn file as a good
+one soon fills up.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Smokestack, Tubes, etc.</span></p>
+
+<p>Now drill a hole at A (Fig. 10) for the smokestack, which
+should be three-quarters of an inch in diameter. Then cut
+a slot in the bottom of the boiler 6 inches long by 1-1/2 inches
+wide, commencing one-quarter of an inch from the forward
+end of the boiler.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i023large.jpg"><img src="images/i023.jpg" width="400" height="219" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 10.</div>
+</div>
+
+<table summary="scaffold" style="min-width: 50%;">
+<tr><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 191px;">
+<a href="images/i024large.jpg"><img src="images/i024.jpg" width="191" height="150" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 13.</div>
+</div>
+</td><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 170px;">
+<a href="images/i025large.jpg"><img src="images/i025.jpg" width="170" height="200" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 14.</div>
+</div>
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 52px;">
+<a href="images/i026large.jpg"><img src="images/i026.jpg" width="52" height="225" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 15.</div>
+</div>
+</td><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<a href="images/i027large.jpg"><img src="images/i027.jpg" width="200" height="108" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 16.</div>
+</div>
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Next take a sheet of copper and cut a piece about 6-1/4<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a><br /><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>
+inches long by 6 inches wide and bend it over a wooden
+roller to the shape shown in Fig. 12, keeping it 1-1/2 inches
+apart between A and B. Cut also two other pieces of copper
+to the shape of your bent sheet (Fig. 12), and make it long
+enough to reach to the dotted line. These form the two ends,
+and may be placed an eighth of an inch from the edges, as in
+Fig. 13, and soldered in place, and the projecting rims turned
+over and sweated with solder from the outside, in the same
+manner that you did the boiler ends in Fig. 11. Then drill
+a three-quarter inch hole at B (Fig. 13) for the bottom of the
+smokestack to go into, and cut a piece of three-quarter inch
+brass tubing of sufficient length to pass out at top of boiler
+about half an inch, as shown at A, Fig. 10. You can then
+hammer out a rim or flange on the bottom end of the smokestack
+and push it up through the hole in the copper box,
+soldering it in place from the top as at A, Fig. 14. Then
+drill two small holes at each end of the box, B C, Fig. 14.
+These should be a little more than an eighth of an inch in
+diameter, to allow an eighth of an inch tube to pass through.</p>
+
+<p>Now get two 12-inch lengths of hard drawn steam pipe,
+an eighth of an inch in diameter, and with your screw plate
+put a thread on each end, about half an inch in length.
+Then make eight nuts to fit the threads on the piping, filing
+them up into proper shape.</p>
+
+<p>Now take the piping and bend it very gently, to prevent it
+cracking, around a bar of iron or handle of some tool held in
+the vise, until it is in the form shown in Fig. 15. Do each
+one the same, then mix a little turpentine with white lead,
+and smear each end, where you have formed the screws,
+taking care not to get any into the tubes, which can be temporarily
+plugged up.</p>
+
+<p>Next put a nut at either end, as far as the thread will take
+it, then smear a little white lead around the holes drilled in
+the ends of the box, B C, Fig. 14.</p>
+
+<p>Push the tubes in from the inside, and screw up firmly
+with the remaining nuts, in the position shown at Fig. 16.
+The inside nuts can then be tightened up with a wrench, and
+if you do all this carefully, you will never be troubled with
+any leakage, no matter what pressure you may get in your
+boiler.</p>
+
+<p>These tubes are immensely strong, and owing to their
+small size, the water in them is raised quickly to a higher
+temperature than that contained in the rest of the boiler,
+causing a continual circulation to take place, and a constant
+supply of steam to be found.</p>
+
+<p>The box can now be placed in the boiler, through the slot
+cut in the bottom, taking care that the top of the box is not
+more than half way up the boiler, as at B, Fig. 10. This<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>
+will leave a portion projecting below the lower edge of boiler
+like C. This part protects the flame of the lamp from being
+blown away by the draught caused by traveling along, and
+which would cause you to lose steam. Solder it firmly in
+position from the outside to prevent the flame from touching
+any soldered portion. Also solder neatly round A, Fig. 10.</p>
+
+<p>The smoke stack can be made from another piece of
+three-quarter inch brass; turn it up in your lathe bright
+and put a collar on it at A Fig. 17, to allow it to push on
+to the piece of tube left projecting at A Fig. 10.</p>
+
+<p>The top of the smoke stack, B Fig. 17, will also require
+turning in the lathe and must be fitted on neatly.</p>
+
+<p>Get advice from some mechanic about the steam chest,
+which is a brass casting and will have to be turned up in the
+lathe, and after cutting a circular hole in the top of the
+boiler of about an inch in diameter it can be either screwed
+or soldered on, previously putting the steam pipe E in
+position by drilling a hole at F and after bending it as
+shown, pass it through at F and solder in place. The top of
+pipe E should be about a quarter of an inch from the top of
+inside of steam chest.</p>
+
+<p>Before soldering on the steam chest drill two holes as at G
+H Fig. 10, one for the small lug G to be screwed into, which
+holds one end of the lever of the safety valve, and that at H
+should be drilled conical with a rimer, and the valve H can
+be turned in the lathe and afterwards ground to fit the hole
+with a little emery and water, by means of a slot cut across
+the top and worked round with a screw driver.</p>
+
+<p>The spring case of the safety valve I, Figure 10, is easily
+made from a piece of one-eighth inch brass tubing, using
+some small, hard, brass wire to form the spring. When finished
+it should be hooked to the eye and screwed into the
+boiler at V.</p>
+
+<p>The manhole or screwhead, K, is used to refill the boiler
+when it has steamed low and will have to be turned up to
+shape, and the bed, L, which it screws into can be firmly
+soldered on the boiler, having first drilled a hole slightly
+larger than the diameter of the screw itself, which should be
+sufficiently large to allow an ordinary tin funnel to be used
+to refill by, and the screw ought to be long enough to hold a
+leather washer under the head to keep it steam-tight.</p>
+
+<p>The whistle, M, will require a hole drilled for it to be
+screwed into, and that, as also the steam-tap, N, and water-tap,
+O, can be bought cheap, ready to put on.</p>
+
+<p>The tap O should be screwed in at a slightly higher level
+than the top of box B, and when working the engine should
+steam issue from it when turned on instead of water, you<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>
+ought to immediately blow off steam by safety valve H.
+Then unscrew K, and refill the boiler with water.</p>
+
+<table summary="scaffold" style="min-width: 50%;">
+<tr><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 69px;">
+<a href="images/i028large.jpg"><img src="images/i028.jpg" width="69" height="225" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 17.</div>
+</div>
+</td><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<a href="images/i029large.jpg"><img src="images/i029.jpg" width="200" height="96" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 18.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<a href="images/i030large.jpg"><img src="images/i030.jpg" width="200" height="111" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 19.</div>
+</div>
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i031large.jpg"><img src="images/i031.jpg" width="400" height="114" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 21.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i032large.jpg"><img src="images/i032.jpg" width="400" height="79" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 22.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>By this time the framework will be quite dry, no doubt, so
+you can, after cleaning and polishing the boiler, attach it to
+the frame by a screw or solder at the forward end, and the
+steam-pipe N can be screwed on to the projecting piece of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>
+tube left at F, while you also screw a short length of pipe
+into the steam box of engine through a hole in the bed plate.
+Then bend it up to the steam tap, and solder them carefully
+in position; this will hold the after end of the boiler firm.</p>
+
+<p>Go over every soldered joint to see if any small hole is left,
+and resolder where necessary, as a hole in the boiler not
+larger than a pin's point would prevent you from getting any
+pressure of steam in the boiler, as the water would all blow
+out.</p>
+
+<p>Now lacquer or paint your boiler, and while it is drying
+turn your attention to the lamp, which we picture in Fig. 18.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">The Lamp.</span></p>
+
+<p>The lamp is simply an oblong tin box, about 5 inches
+long by 1-1/4 inches wide and three-quarters of an inch deep.</p>
+
+<p>To make it cut a piece of tin 4-1/2 by 5 inches and bend it
+to shape. Then solder the two edges together and cut two
+ends to fit; push them in and solder in place.</p>
+
+<p>Now cut three pieces of brass quarter-inch tubing into
+three-quarter inch lengths; drilling holes in top of lamp, insert
+them, allowing a quarter of an inch to project, as at A,
+Fig. 17. Then solder them on four pieces of bent wire&mdash;C,
+C, C, C, Fig. 18&mdash;by which to hang the lamp by means of
+two wire pins run through them and small holes drilled in
+the sides of projecting piece C, Fig. 10.</p>
+
+<p>The screw filler B, Fig. 18, will have to be soldered in,
+also, and when complete the tubes A may be filled with cotton
+wick and the lamp about three-parts full of a methylated
+alcohol, which will give a clear, smokeless flame.</p>
+
+<p>Now you can start your locomotive by filling the boiler
+about three parts full of hot water, and then hooking the
+lamp underneath; you will soon get up a good pressure of
+steam.</p>
+
+<p>See that the taps are all turned off, and if there is no leakage
+from careless workmanship, you will find on turning the
+steam tap on, that the locomotive will run beautifully and
+will travel at great speed either on a smooth oil-cloth or a
+board floor.</p>
+
+<p>On rails it would run quicker still, but for this engine, if
+you make a small tender of the shape shown in Fig. 19, and
+fasten it at any angle by the set-screw on the foot-plate of
+the engine shown at N, Fig. 2, the model will run in any
+sized circle you may wish without rails, according to the
+angle you fix the tender to the engine.</p>
+
+<p>Wooden cars you can make if you wish, but each one added
+will reduce the speed of the engine, of course.</p>
+
+<p>Tin is the best material to use for the tender, as no great
+strength is required&mdash;indeed it should be made as light as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span>
+possible. The wheels and axles you must finish in the same
+manner as those on the engine, and it can be made into a
+tank to hold an extra supply of alcohol by soldering a piece
+of tin round the inside and covering it in with another piece
+cut to shape and fitted with a screw nut to fill by as shown
+in Fig. 18.</p>
+
+<p>Such is the method of constructing a model locomotive
+which will run without complicated machinery.</p>
+
+<p>The boy who has succeeded in following these directions
+will no doubt be ambitious to try his hand on a more complete
+model on a larger scale, something like Fig. 20 for instance,
+which is a side view of a large model locomotive in a
+finished state.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">How to Build a Large Model Locomotive.</span></p>
+
+<p>In building a large model the first thing to be done is to
+decide how large you want it. Sketch your model carefully,
+or, if not able to draw plans, get some one who is to help
+you. Make your plan the exact size of the model you intend
+to build, then you can take all the measurements from it and
+save yourself a lot of trouble and time.</p>
+
+<p>Remember, however, that the larger you make the engine
+the more expensive the castings and materials will be.</p>
+
+<p>Should you persevere, however, and by good fortune succeed,
+you will have a model locomotive that would cost you
+two or three hundred dollars to buy ready made. If you
+have a lathe and can turn the wooden models for the castings
+yourself, use sheet iron for the frame-work, etc., where
+possible; the total expense will not be so very great.</p>
+
+<p>Begin your work in the same way you did on the other
+model. If you want a bigger engine than the one shown in
+Fig. 20, there would be no trouble in increasing the measurements,
+which we are about to give, proportionately, remembering
+that Fig. 20 is drawn to an eighth-inch scale.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Dimensions.</span></p>
+
+<p>Make your dimensions as follows: Length over all, 3 ft.
+2 in. Length of bed-plate, 3.5 in. Width of bed-plate, 9 in.
+Diameter of driving wheels, 8-1/4 in. Diameter of leading
+wheels, 5-1/4 in. Gauge&mdash;that is width of track on which
+model can run&mdash;6-1/2 in. Cylinders, 1-3/4 in. bore by 2-1/2
+in. stroke. Length of boiler, including smoke box, 28 in.
+Diameter of boiler, 5 in.</p>
+
+<p>Cylinders of the above dimensions will drive the engine at
+a high rate of speed, with from 30 to 50 lbs. of steam.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Description of Large Model Locomotives.</span></p>
+
+<p>In Fig. 20, the different parts of the engine are lettered,
+and it will be well for the boy who desires to make a locomotive<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a><br /><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>
+like it to compare the following description with the
+cut, before he does anything else.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i033large.jpg"><img src="images/i033.jpg" width="400" height="179" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 20.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>A is the smoke stack and B the steam blast used to increase
+the intensity of the fire worked by rod C running
+through the hollow hand-rail D and ending in handle F. G
+is the steam-dome, which with the safety valve is the same
+pattern previously used. H is the extra safety valve, worked
+from the foot-plate. I is the steam whistle, K wind guard,
+L starting lever, M smoke-box with door, N O spring buffers;
+P is the line-clearer or wheel guard. Q are the leading
+wheels, R R the driving wheels, S is one of the cylinders with
+piston rods and guides bolted to frame and showing double
+connecting rod at T T. U U are the springs which support
+the weight of the boiler, etc., on the axle bearings. The
+spring or rear wheel does not show, being inside the safety
+guard and hand-rail V. W is the back pressure valve,
+through which the water is thrown by the force-pump into
+the boiler, and X is the blow-off tap to clear the engine
+from all water after having used it. Y shows the side of the
+ash-pan.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">How to do the Work on the Large Model Locomotive.</span></p>
+
+<p>First of all comes the frame work. It wants to be of
+eighth inch sheet iron squared up perfectly true and flat
+and cut as is shown in Fig. 21, beginning 4-1/2 inches from
+A, and leaving 6 inches at B, and cutting it 6 inches wide
+there by 8 inches long, and continuing it 4 inches wide for
+the rest of the distance. Be careful to keep it quite central on
+the line A B, and leave two connecting strips 1 inch wide
+as at C C.</p>
+
+<p>The side frames come next. These must be much stronger
+and quite different from those used in the previous model.
+They may be cut from the same eighth inch iron to the
+shape shown in Fig. 22.</p>
+
+<p>The center of slot B is 17 inches from one end, the center
+of A 10 inches from B, and the center of C 13 inches from B.</p>
+
+<p>In measuring, always start from a given center if you want
+to be accurate. That is, from B to A and from B to C; not
+from B to A and from C to B.</p>
+
+<p>The slots are each 1-1/4 inches wide by 2 inches deep, leaving
+1 inch of iron at the top, as shown. The four large
+boles shown in Fig. 23 are only ornamental, and can be now
+cut out. They also serve to lighten the frame.</p>
+
+<p>The frames, after being smoothed up can be fastened to
+the bed plate in the manner described before, by angle-irons,
+or knees, riveted on.</p>
+
+<p>Two end pieces must also be prepared. Let them be 1
+inch deep, with the ends hammered square, at right angles,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>
+and then riveted to the bed plate and side frames, as shown
+in Fig. 20. Then drill three holes in them, about an inch and
+a half from either end, and one in the center, by which to
+bolt on the buffer beams by means of a couple of screws put
+in at the back. The buffer beams should be mahogany, 1
+inch wide by 2 deep by 10 long, squared nicely and sandpapered.
+A hook can then be made&mdash;Fig. 23&mdash;and a hole
+being drilled in the center of the beam, you can pass the
+hook stem through and into the central hole of framework,
+and screw up tight with nut at back, which will hold all
+firmly in place. The buffers for this model must be properly
+made, with springs to take the pressure in case you should
+run into anything.</p>
+
+<p>Fig. 24 shows this buffer. You will have to get it cast.
+Turn out in your lathe a wooden mold and get four castings
+in brass made from it. A Fig. 24 is cast with a square base
+plate 2 inches square, as in front view B, and is secured to
+the buffer beam by four flat-headed screws. The piece C
+must be turned true and just the size to slide in and out of A
+easily. Each part must be finished up in the lathe. A should
+be an inch and a half long. Drill a hole in the buffer beam
+to allow the head of the pin to work freely, and another hole
+in base plate of buffer the size of the pin, whose head prevents
+the spring from forcing C entirely away from A.</p>
+
+<p>The spring should be made of thick steel wire; the buffers
+can then be screwed in as just mentioned. The wheel-guard
+or line-clearer P (Fig. 20) can next be cut out to shape and
+bolted on to frame, and should just clear the line by a quarter
+of an inch.</p>
+
+<p>We will now proceed to the axle bearings and springs, U,
+Fig. 20.</p>
+
+<p>Make a wooden model like Fig. 25, and get 6 castings in
+brass made from it. They must then be filed up square and
+smooth and fitted into the slots cut at A, B, C, Fig 22, and
+either screwed or riveted on by the side holes. Before
+finally fixing them prepare 6 brass bearings, B, Fig 25, which
+must fit exactly and slide easily in the inner surface of A,
+then drilling a hole through each five-eighths of an inch in
+diameter. These take the axles, which in this model are all
+straight, and three-quarters of an inch in diameter, shouldered
+off to five-eighths for the bearings.</p>
+
+<p>Next for the springs. Take 4 pieces of either sheet iron or
+brass for the supports, 1-1/2 inches long by 1/4 inch wide. Drill
+a hole in either end as shown at C, Fig. 26. A should be three-eighths
+of an inch wide, drilled through, a pin put in and all
+riveted together loosely.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<a href="images/i034large.jpg"><img src="images/i034.jpg" width="150" height="59" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 23.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i035large.jpg"><img src="images/i035.jpg" width="400" height="182" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 24.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<a href="images/i036large.jpg"><img src="images/i036.jpg" width="300" height="163" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 25.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<a href="images/i037large.jpg"><img src="images/i037.jpg" width="300" height="320" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 26.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Now take a clock spring and cut it into shape, as at D,
+Fig. 26. The top piece requires to be made hot with your<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>
+blow-pipe, then the ends turned over to hold the pin B. Each
+piece of spring must be a little shorter than the one above
+it, and the ends neatly tapered, all to be inclosed in the
+brass band F, which has a small hole drilled at F to hold the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>
+end of the pin by which the pressure is directed on to the axle
+boxes, as shown in Fig. 20. A hole is also to be drilled in
+the bed plate over the center of each axle box to allow the
+pin to pass through, and also a smaller one an inch and a
+half on each side for the support A, Fig. 26, to screw into.
+Now all can be fitted into position.</p>
+
+<p>Next come the cylinders. These are to be an inch thick
+and three-quarters bore by two and a half inch stroke. They
+should be of the fixed slide-valve pattern, with double eccentrics
+fitted on the middle axle shaft, and reversing lever
+brought to quadrant on foot plate. They had better be
+bought ready made.</p>
+
+<p>Fig. 27 shows their working. A A are the eccentrics, B the
+slide-valve rod with guide G attached. C C is the bed plate
+and D the balance weight, F the rod leading to quadrant and
+lever on foot plate. The cranks are put on outside the
+wheels and fastened by keys as in Fig. 20. The connecting
+rod T should be cut to the form shown in Fig. 28, and the
+ends squared out and a brass band fitted in with a hole drilled
+from top A to oil by and a set screw B to adjust the
+bearings perfectly.</p>
+
+<p>If you wish to fit a force pump it should be placed centrally
+between the cylinders and be worked by an eccentric on the
+main shaft, but a pump on a model locomotive is next to
+useless unless it is also made to work by hand.</p>
+
+<p>In Fig. 29, we have one which can be worked either way.
+A is the pump; B the eccentric on main-shaft to work it by
+steam power. To work by hand you have only to push up
+hook connection C, which disconnects it from the eccentric;
+and then by working the handle D, which is screwed into the
+bottom of the plunger C, the water is forced into the boiler.
+An extra stuffing-box at F will be required. G is the exhaust
+water pipe bent up to the back-pressure valve on boiler, and
+H the supply pipe carried on to rear of engine.</p>
+
+<p>Two small blow-off cocks will be necessary on each cylinder
+to get rid of the condensed steam when starting. They
+can be connected with a tye-rod, and both worked from the
+foot-plate with a single handle. Now paint to suit your
+taste and put away to dry.</p>
+
+<p>Next comes the boiler, which will need extreme care. For
+this you will require sheet copper an eighth of an inch thick.</p>
+
+<p>First cut a piece 19 inches long by 16 wide and bend it
+round, forming a cylinder 5 inches in diameter. The cap
+must be closely riveted and the two ends hammered out into
+a flange outward, leaving the body of the boiler 17 inches
+long, as in Fig. 30. B is the shape of the piece to be next
+riveted on at after end. Now take another sheet 9 inches
+wide and hammer a half inch flange round it, so as to fit over<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>
+the dotted line at A. Rivet them firmly together and also
+another piece in after end. It will then have the appearance
+of Fig. 31, and should be 4-1/2 inches deep from A to B, and
+forming a copper box 6 inches wide from B to C and 8 inches
+from C to D. Then rivet together another box to form the
+inner casing 4-1/2 inches wide by 6-1/2 inches long and 9 inches
+deep, the bottom to be hammered outward to the dimensions
+of B C C D, as shown in section Fig. 32 at A A.
+A hole is next to be cut out in the center of rear plate and
+also the rear part of inner casing which comes opposite to
+it, and 1-3/4 inches by 2-1/2 forming the furnace door.</p>
+
+<p>A casting of that shape and 3/4 of an inch thick, which is
+the distance between the inner and outer casing B C, must
+be procured and drilled with holes every 3/8 of an inch and
+firmly riveted in position, as shown in Fig. 32 at D. Two
+pins should project on either side of the inner surface to support
+the fire-bars and ash pan, and the bars should be made
+of cast iron and small enough to get out easily by tilting
+up one side; they should run lengthwise of the engine.</p>
+
+<p>For the boiler tubes some hard drawn brass tubing three-quarters
+of an inch in diameter will be required. Cut the
+pieces slightly over 17 inches long, then drill 10 holes in the
+inner plate as at E, Fig. 32, and in the position and arrangement
+shown in Fig. 33. These tubes should have a wire
+ring brazed on about a quarter of an inch from either end,
+and then being placed in their respective holes in the tube
+plate, the projecting portion is to be headed back with a
+flange, or you can fit them in as already shown in Fig. 16 by
+each being double screwed and nutted. These tubes allow
+the smoke and flame to pass through from the furnace to the
+smoke box, M, Fig. 20, and so away up the smoke stack, and
+by the large surface they expose to the fire, help to raise
+steam very quickly. In some engines as many as 300 tubes
+are fitted.</p>
+
+<p>The steam supply pipe and regulating lever handle should
+now be made and placed in position, and Fig. 34 shows the
+shape to make it. A B are the front and rear plates of the
+boiler, C is the supply pipe bent with a screw end downward,
+after passing plate A, and then upward into the steam dome,
+where it should be securely fastened into a cross-piece. D
+is the tap or valve which can be turned on or off from the
+foot-plate by means of the long rod, F, ending in the lever
+handle, G.</p>
+
+<p>The rod must be fitted with a stuffing-box, the same as
+those used on the cylinders, and packed with cotton wick to
+prevent loss of steam by leakage. When all this is complete,
+the forward end of the boiler can be furnished with a tube-plate
+riveted on and the tubes flanged over.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Now the boiler must go to a practical brazier, and be
+properly brazed. Cut the hole for the steam dome, and let him
+braze it on at the same time. If the job is practically done,
+your boiler can be heated red-hot without fear.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i038large.jpg"><img src="images/i038.jpg" width="400" height="189" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 27.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 175px;">
+<a href="images/i039large.jpg"><img src="images/i039.jpg" width="175" height="60" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 28.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i040large.jpg"><img src="images/i040.jpg" width="400" height="283" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 29.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Meanwhile buy your pressure gauge&mdash;it wants to be one
+and a half inches in diameter&mdash;and let the brazier test your
+boiler to 100 pounds steam to the square inch capacity.</p>
+
+<p>Should it burst you will have to make another. If not you
+need thereafter have no fears.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Now make the smoke box, which should be three inches
+deep and of the shape and dimensions shown in Fig. 35. This
+and the smoke-stack can be made of iron, hammered up to
+shape and finished with a brass ring. The smoke-box can
+be screwed on the forward flange or boiler.</p>
+
+<p>The door is drawn open to show the amount of bulge it
+should be hammered to. In the center a hole should be
+drilled through which to pass the screw used to close it,
+which is attached to the loose bar, A. The handle, B, is
+then screwed up tight.</p>
+
+<p>The door is circular and must be large enough to overlap
+the opening about half an inch and have a couple of bright
+iron or brass eyes, C, riveted on to form the hinge.</p>
+
+<p>Next comes the back-pressure valve, Fig 36. A is a front
+view with plate by which it is bolted to the boiler, as at W,
+Fig. 20.</p>
+
+<p>It is very simple to make, and consists of the casting A
+with top and bottom covers and the ball-valve B, which
+ought to be ground with a little emery and oil to fit perfectly.
+It acts in this manner.</p>
+
+<p>The water being forced up C from the pump, raises B and
+passes into the boiler. On the up stroke of pump, the pressure
+is removed from under B and the pressure of steam in
+the boiler causes it to fall back and close the opening entirely,
+preventing any water from passing away from the
+boiler. A small flange can be put on each outer side of the
+boiler near the furnace to support it on bed-plate level with
+smoke box.</p>
+
+<p>The boiler should now be covered with flannel, cut to shape
+and wrapped round the body part and a casing of sheet tin
+put over it and secured by brass bands and small nuts underneath&mdash;as
+shown in Fig. 20.</p>
+
+<p>The steam supply pipe can now be connected with the
+cylinders and it should be made forked as in Fig. 37. A
+leads from steam pipe and branches off to each cylinder,
+where it must be screwed up with white lead.</p>
+
+<p>The exhaust pipes B B should be of larger tubing and bent
+round up the sides of the smoke box so as to be out of the
+way when you have to clean the tubes. A small brass pipe,
+C, must also be passed through the chimney, bent upwards
+and fitted with a tap which should take the steam from
+the top of the boiler and be used as shown at D F Fig. 20.
+This helps to raise steam very quickly.</p>
+
+<p>Fig. 38 is a rear view of the foot plate and shows the necessary
+fittings which you must either make or buy to complete
+the model.</p>
+
+<p>The cocks you might make but the water gauge you must
+buy. A is the furnace door, B two gauge taps, C starting-lever<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>
+handle, D spring balance safety valve, F wind-guard
+with two look-out holes, G steam whistle handle, H pressure
+gauge, N the quadrant and lever for reversing the engine, O
+the rear buffer beam with buffers, P the wheels showing axle,
+R R the springs for same and V the safety-guard rail on
+either side.</p>
+
+<table summary="scaffold" style="min-width: 50%;">
+<tr><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<a href="images/i041large.jpg"><img src="images/i041.jpg" width="200" height="211" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 30.</div>
+</div>
+</td><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<a href="images/i042large.jpg"><img src="images/i042.jpg" width="200" height="145" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 31.</div>
+</div>
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<a href="images/i043large.jpg"><img src="images/i043.jpg" width="200" height="186" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 32.</div>
+</div>
+</td><td>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<a href="images/i044large.jpg"><img src="images/i044.jpg" width="200" height="205" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 33.</div>
+</div>
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i045large.jpg"><img src="images/i045.jpg" width="400" height="137" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 34.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<a href="images/i046large.jpg"><img src="images/i046.jpg" width="300" height="368" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 35.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<a href="images/i047large.jpg"><img src="images/i047.jpg" width="300" height="308" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 37.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<a href="images/i048large.jpg"><img src="images/i048.jpg" width="300" height="184" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 36.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When these fittings are all complete holes must be drilled
+in rear plate for each piece; they must be firmly screwed in
+place with white lead. The glass tube of the water gauge,
+the stuffing-box, and the gland of the starting lever should
+be closely packed with tallow and cotton wick.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i049large.jpg"><img src="images/i049.jpg" width="400" height="586" alt="" /></a>
+<div class="caption">Fig. 38.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Next paint the entire model over again and let it dry. We
+give no directions as to colors; use your own taste. After
+the paint is thoroughly dry varnish with the best clear, hard
+varnish and let it dry again.</p>
+
+<p>While it is drying you can be making the rails.</p>
+
+<p>Get some square bar iron, cut it into six-foot lengths, if
+you wish the rails to be portable, and drill a hole in each
+end half an inch deep.</p>
+
+<p>The rails can be joined together at each end by means of a
+piece of wire and kept at a proper distance apart by being
+fastened to pieces of wood placed like sleepers, fastened by
+screws passing through holes drilled in the rails every six
+inches. These sections can be laid end to end, and your
+line be made as long as you wish. If you want a circular
+line, each section must be bent to a portion of a circle; one
+about 30 feet in diameter is suitable for this model.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When finished place your locomotive on the track and get
+up steam. Fill the boiler with water by means of a funnel
+until you see it rise up three parts of the way in the glass
+water-gauge. Then see that all taps are turned off and start
+the fire. Charcoal is the best fuel, as it gives a clear, hot
+fire without much smoke once you start it right.</p>
+
+<p>Try the safety-valve occasionally to see how your steam is
+getting on, and when it begins to form turn on the blast-tap,
+which will soon draw up the fire, and you will presently
+see the pressure rise and show itself in the pressure-gauge.</p>
+
+<p>When the gauge shows 30 lbs. of steam you might start
+the model by turning on the cocks on cylinders until no
+more condensed steam issues from them.</p>
+
+<p>Then shut them off and turn on steam full power and
+watch the engine travel, gradually increasing its speed.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center">CONCLUSION.</p>
+
+
+<p>Let us now bear the conclusion of the whole matter, which
+takes us straight back to where we started, and we again repeat
+if you want to become an engineer make up your mind
+that you will be a good one or none at all.</p>
+
+<p>We have examined the locomotive inside and out, underneath
+and on top, even peering down the smoke-stack,
+crawling into the fire-box, and learning the true science of
+shoveling coal.</p>
+
+<p>What then remains to be told?</p>
+
+<p>Nothing that can be remembered long enough to be of
+any practical use.</p>
+
+<p>There are matters&mdash;dozens of them&mdash;connected with locomotive
+engineering which we have not even alluded to, but
+they are for the most part such as must be learned by actual
+every day experience to be of any use.</p>
+
+<p>We might, perhaps, under three heads speak a few closing
+words. First let us take up</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">SIGNALS,</p>
+
+<p>and post ourselves a bit on that most important subject.</p>
+
+<p>The greater part of an engineer's time while on his engine
+must be spent in the lookout for signals.</p>
+
+<p>Upon this depends not only the safety of every soul on the
+train but his own as well.</p>
+
+<p><i>Never jump at conclusions in the matter of signals.</i></p>
+
+<p>Never assume that because a "distant" signal and all the
+other signals are off the line is clear.</p>
+
+<p>Every engineer should, as far as possible, not only see that
+each signal is off, but he should also cast his eye over the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>
+road in front of him to see whether it <i>should</i> be off. At night
+caution in the matter of signals is even more necessary than
+in daylight. Then the only safety lies in keeping a constant
+lookout.</p>
+
+<p>You must know your road. It is not enough to know
+where the up grades lie and where the downs. You must
+know just how steep the grades are and their length.</p>
+
+<p>Often signals are badly placed and cannot be seen until
+the engine is close upon them.</p>
+
+<p>With this you have nothing to do. Engineers do not place
+signals. Doubtless if they did they would alter the position
+of many of them. All you have to do is to heed the signals,
+no matter how well or how badly they are placed.</p>
+
+<p>To enter into a detailed description of signals until some
+universal system of signaling is adopted, would be but a
+waste of time.</p>
+
+<p>You will have to learn all these things during your apprenticeship;
+they are matters upon which books can give you
+little help.</p>
+
+<p>Presence of mind you must always have if you expect to
+become a good engineer, and courage, too&mdash;plenty of it.
+This brings us to our second head, which we will write</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">"<span class="smcap">Broke Down</span>."</p>
+
+<p>What to do when the engine has broken down?</p>
+
+<p>There comes the tug of war, the time when it will be definitely
+decided whether the engineer is good, bad or indifferent.</p>
+
+<p>Hundreds of lives may depend upon prompt action, thousands
+of dollars' worth of property are in the engineer's hands,
+either to waste or save when the moment of the break down
+comes.</p>
+
+<p>In Mr. S. A. Alexander's excellent treatise entitled "Broke
+Down" is placed in red letters over every page, "Protect
+Yourself from Approaching Trains."</p>
+
+<p>When a break-down occurs, this is the first thought which
+should enter the engineer's mind, and the first act should be
+to carry it out.</p>
+
+<p>There are many causes of a break-down, too many to
+enumerate. In the roundhouse is the place to study break-downs,
+for here, daily, every variety is open to inspection&mdash;broken
+crank-shafts, broken eccentric-rods, eccentric-straps
+and sheaves, broken motion and broken springs.</p>
+
+<p>Of course an engine may be broken, and yet able to run its
+train through. This is an important consideration. Some
+engineers hardly know when they are beaten.</p>
+
+<p>It is a matter of record that a certain engineer, known as
+"Hell-fire Jack," ran his train over a bridge after one side<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>
+had been washed away by a raging flood. Thousands of such
+daring deeds have been accomplished by engineers, but
+"Cautious Jacks" will be better appreciated by the company
+than "Hell-fire Jacks" every time.</p>
+
+<p>Real heroism lies in good judgment and a cool head. Suppose
+that the right hand back gear eccentric-rod breaks.
+"Can I get along in forward gear, after having disconnected
+the rod and the strap?" is the question. The answer is yes,
+and it should be prompt, as all such answers should be when
+the engine breaks down.</p>
+
+<p>It is such readiness as this that makes break-downs but
+a matter of a few moments.</p>
+
+<p>It is also highly necessary that the engineer should ask
+himself "What tools have I upon the engine? What can I
+do with them? Can I find them in the dark? If I run off the
+track in what condition is my screw jack? Will it work
+properly? Have I a ratchet or bar to work it with?"</p>
+
+<p>These are things which should be continually kept in mind.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Air Brakes.</span></p>
+
+<p>The air-brake has changed engine driving materially in the
+last few years, and a word or two concerning it should be said.</p>
+
+<p>The air-brake consists briefly of an air cylinder placed
+beneath each car, which can be operated by the engineer
+from the foot plate, the pressure of the air controlling the
+action of the brakes.</p>
+
+<p>There are two valves to an air-brake, one for ordinary
+stops and the other for sudden stops in case of emergency.</p>
+
+<p>In the first only partial pressure of the confined air is used,
+in the latter the full pressure is employed and the brakes
+brought against the wheels with all force at once.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most important duties of an engineer is to be
+well assured that the air-brakes are in proper working
+order.</p>
+
+<p>After the call for hand brakes has been given, the air
+brakes must not be applied until the hand brakes are released.
+Air and hand brakes should never be used at the
+same time on a car.</p>
+
+<p>When cars having different air pressures are coupled together
+the brakes will work first on that having the highest
+pressure.</p>
+
+<p>Special instruction is needed to fully comprehend the working
+of air brakes.</p>
+
+<p>Here is a speed table which may be useful. We have taken
+the liberty of extracting it from Alexander's "Ready-reference
+for Locomotive Engineers," an excellent hand-book
+with which all candidates for the foot-plate should provide<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>
+themselves. Published by the author, S. A. Alexander,
+York, Pa.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Time and Speed Tables.</span></p>
+
+<p class="center">
+Key: M = Minutes.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">S = Seconds.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">T = 10th of a Second.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<table summary="Time and Speed Tables" style="text-align: center;">
+<tr><td colspan="5">&nbsp;</td><td class="minutes">M</td><td class="seconds">S</td><td class="thousandths">T</td></tr>
+<tr><td>10</td><td>miles</td><td>per</td><td>hour</td><td>is</td><td class="minutes">6.</td><td class="seconds">00</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>to</td><td>1</td><td>mile</td></tr>
+<tr><td>11</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">5.</td><td class="seconds">27</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>12</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">5.</td><td class="seconds">90</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>13</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">4.</td><td class="seconds">37</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>14</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">4.</td><td class="seconds">17</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>15</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">4.</td><td class="seconds">00</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>16</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">3.</td><td class="seconds">45</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>17</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">3.</td><td class="seconds">32</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>18</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">3.</td><td class="seconds">20</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>19</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">3.</td><td class="seconds">09.</td><td class="thousandths">5</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>20</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">3.</td><td class="seconds">00</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>21</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">51.</td><td class="thousandths">5</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>22</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">43.</td><td class="thousandths">5</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>23</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">36.</td><td class="thousandths">5</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>24</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">30</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>25</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">24</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>26</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">18.</td><td class="thousandths">6</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>27</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">13.</td><td class="thousandths">3</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>28</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">08.</td><td class="thousandths">5</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>29</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">04</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>30</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">2.</td><td class="seconds">00</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>31</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">56</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>32</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">52.</td><td class="thousandths">5</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>33</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">49</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>34</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">45.</td><td class="thousandths">6</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>35</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">42.</td><td class="thousandths">6</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>36</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">40</td><td class="thousandths"></td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>37</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">37.</td><td class="thousandths">3</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>38</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">34.</td><td class="thousandths">7</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>39</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">32.</td><td class="thousandths">3</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>40</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">30.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>41</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">27.</td><td class="thousandths">7</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>42</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">25.</td><td class="thousandths">7</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>43</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">23.</td><td class="thousandths">5</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>44</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">21.</td><td class="thousandths">7</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>45</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">20.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>46</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">18.</td><td class="thousandths">2</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>47</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">16.</td><td class="thousandths">6</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>48</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">15.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>49</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">13.</td><td class="thousandths">5</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>50</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">12.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>51</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">10.</td><td class="thousandths">6</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>52</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">09.</td><td class="thousandths">4</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>53</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">07.</td><td class="thousandths">9</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>54</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">06.</td><td class="thousandths">6</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>55</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">05.</td><td class="thousandths">4</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>56</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">04.</td><td class="thousandths">3</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>57</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">03.</td><td class="thousandths">2</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>58</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">02.</td><td class="thousandths">2</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>60</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">1.</td><td class="seconds">00.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>65</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">0.</td><td class="seconds">55.</td><td class="thousandths">3</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>70</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">0.</td><td class="seconds">51.</td><td class="thousandths">4</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>75</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">0.</td><td class="seconds">48.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>80</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">0.</td><td class="seconds">45.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>85</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">0.</td><td class="seconds">42.</td><td class="thousandths">3</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>90</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">0.</td><td class="seconds">40.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>95</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">0.</td><td class="seconds">37.</td><td class="thousandths">9</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>100</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td class="minutes">0.</td><td class="seconds">36.</td><td class="thousandths">0</td><td>"</td><td>1</td><td>"</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>
+The boy who aims to become an engineer should not waste
+his school hours in idle dreaming or in too much sport.</p>
+
+<p>Improve every moment you can spare from other duties or
+needed exercise in studying arithmetic, geometry, algebra
+and mechanical engineering. A little knowledge as a
+draughtsman will also be a great help.</p>
+
+<p>Above all, get some larger manual on locomotive engineering
+and read and re-read it until you know its contents by
+heart.</p>
+
+<p>Remember that there is no limit to knowledge in any direction.</p>
+
+<p>The time can never come to any engineer when he can
+truthfully say to himself, "I know it all," and to his life-long
+study write</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i050large.jpg"><img src="images/i050.jpg" width="400" height="121" alt="THE END." /></a>
+</div>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2><span class="small">THE LARGEST AND BEST LIBRARY.</span><br />
+PLUCK AND LUCK.</h2>
+
+<p class="center"><b>Colored Covers. 32 Pages. All Kinds of Good
+Stories. Price 5 Cents. Issued Weekly.
+Read List Below.</b></p>
+
+
+<table summary="list">
+<tr><th>No.</th></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">1</td><td class="tdl">Dick Decker, the Brave Young Fireman       </td><td class="tdr">by Ex Fire Chief Warden</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">2</td><td class="tdl">The Two Boy Brokers; or, From Messenger Boys to Millionaires      </td><td class="tdr">by a Retired Banker</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">3</td><td class="tdl">Little Lou, the Pride of the Continental Army. A Story of the American Revolution       </td><td class="tdr">by General Jas. A. Gordon</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">4</td><td class="tdl">Railroad Ralph, the Boy Engineer        </td><td class="tdr">by Jas. C. Merritt</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">5</td><td class="tdl">The Boy Pilot of Lake Michigan        </td><td class="tdr">by Capt. Thos. H. Wilson</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">6</td><td class="tdl">Joe Wiley, the Young Temperance Lecturer       </td><td class="tdr">by Jno. B. Dowd</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">7</td><td class="tdl">The Little Swamp Fox. A Tale of General Marion and His Men       </td><td class="tdr">by General Jas. A. Gordon</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">8</td><td class="tdl">Young Grizzly Adams, the Wild Beast Tamer. A True Story of Circus Life       </td><td class="tdr">by Hal Standish</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">9</td><td class="tdl">North Pole Nat; or, The Secret of the Frozen Deep       </td><td class="tdr">by Capt. Thos. H. Wilson</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">10</td><td class="tdl">Little Deadshot, the Pride of the Trappers       </td><td class="tdr">by An Old Scout</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">11</td><td class="tdl">Liberty Hose; or, The Pride of Plattsville      </td><td class="tdr">by Ex Fire Chief Warden</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">12</td><td class="tdl">Engineer Steve, the Prince of the Rail        </td><td class="tdr">by Jas. C. Merritt</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">13</td><td class="tdl">Whistling Walt, the Champion Spy. A Story of the American Revolution       </td><td class="tdr">by General Jas. A. Gordon</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">14</td><td class="tdl">Lost in the Air; or, Over Land and Sea       </td><td class="tdr">by Allyn Draper</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">15</td><td class="tdl">The Little Demon; or, Plotting Against the Czar      </td><td class="tdr">by Howard Austin</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">16</td><td class="tdl">Fred Farrell, the Barkeeper's Son        </td><td class="tdr">by Jno. B. Dowd</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">17</td><td class="tdl">Slippery Steve, the Cunning Spy of the Revolution      </td><td class="tdr">by General Jas. A. Gordon</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">18</td><td class="tdl">Fred Flame, the Hero of Greystone No. 1      </td><td class="tdr">by Ex Fire Chief Warden</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">19</td><td class="tdl">Harry Dare; or, A New York Boy in the Navy        </td><td class="tdr">by Col. Ralph Fenton</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">20</td><td class="tdl">Jack Quick, the Boy Engineer        </td><td class="tdr">by Jas. C. Merritt</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">21</td><td class="tdl">Doublequick, the King Harpooner; or, The Wonder of the Whalers       </td><td class="tdr">by Capt. Thos. H. Wilson</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">22</td><td class="tdl">Rattling Rube, the Jolly Scout and Spy. A Story of the Revolution      </td><td class="tdr">by General Jas. A. Gordon</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">23</td><td class="tdl">In the Czar's Service; or, Dick Sherman in Russia      </td><td class="tdr">by Howard Austin</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">24</td><td class="tdl">Ben o' the Bowl; or, The Road to Ruin       </td><td class="tdr">by Jno. B. Dowd</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">25</td><td class="tdl">Kit Carson, the King of Scouts      </td><td class="tdr">by an Old Scout</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">26</td><td class="tdl">The School Boy Explorers; or, Among the Ruins of Yucatan       </td><td class="tdr">by Howard Austin</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">27</td><td class="tdl">The Wide Awakes; or, Burke Halliday, the Pride of the Volunteers       </td><td class="tdr">by Ex Fire Chief Warden</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">28</td><td class="tdl">The Frozen Deep; or, Two Years in the Ice      </td><td class="tdr">by Capt. Thos. H. Wilson</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">29</td><td class="tdl">The Swamp Rats; or, The Boys Who Fought for Washington      </td><td class="tdr">by Gen. Jas. A. Gordon</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">30</td><td class="tdl">Around the World on Cheek        </td><td class="tdr">by Howard Austin</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">31</td><td class="tdl">Bushwhacker Ben; or, The Union Boys of Tennessee       </td><td class="tdr">by Col. Ralph Fenton</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>For sale by all newsdealers, or sent to any address on receipt of price, 5
+cents per copy&mdash;6 copies for 25 cents. Address</p>
+
+
+<p class="center large">FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, 29 West 26th St. N. Y.</p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2>GOLD! GOLD! GOLD!<br />
+
+<span class="large">Young Klondike.</span></h2>
+
+<p class="center large"><b>Containing Stories of a Gold Seeker.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center huge"><b>PRICE 5 CENTS.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center large"><b>Colored Covers.</b></p>
+
+
+<table summary="List">
+<tr><th>No.</th></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">1</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike; or, Off For the Land of Gold.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">2</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Claim; or, Nine Golden Nuggets.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">3</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's First Million; or, His Great Strike on El Dorado Creek.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">4</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike and the Claim Agents; or, Fighting the Land Sharks of Dawson City.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">5</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's New Diggings; or, The Great Gold Find on Owl Creek.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">6</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Chase; or, The Gold Pirates of the Yukon.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">7</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Golden Island; or, Half a Million in Dust.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">8</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Seven Strikes; or, The Gold Hunters of High Rock.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">9</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Journey to Juneau; or, Guarding a Million in Gold.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">10</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Lucky Camp; or, Working the Unknown's Claim.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">11</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Lost Million; or, The Mine Wreckers of Gold Creek.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">12</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Gold Syndicate; or, Breaking the Brokers of Dawson City.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">13</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Golden Eagle; or, Working a Hidden Mine.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">14</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Trump Card; or, The Rush to Rocky River.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">15</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Arctic Trail; or, Lost in a Sea of Ice.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">16</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's New Bonanza; or, The Gold Diggers of French Gulch.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">17</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Death Trap; or, Lost Underground.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">18</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Fight for a Claim; or, The Boomers of Raccoon Creek.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">19</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Deep Sea Diggings; or, Working at the Mouth of the Yukon.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">20</td><td class="tdl">Young Klondike's Winter Camp; or, Mining Under the Snow.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>For sale by all newsdealers, or sent to any address on receipt of
+price, 5 cents per copy&mdash;6 copies for 25 cents. Address</p>
+
+
+<p class="center large">FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,<br />
+28 West 26th St.,        New York.
+</p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="Work_and_Win" id="Work_and_Win">Work and Win.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center large"><b>An Interesting Weekly for Young America.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center large"><b>BRIGHT, CATCHY STORIES.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center large">Beautiful Colored Covers.</p>
+
+<p class="center large">32 Pages. Price 5 Cents.</p>
+
+<p>Don't fail to read about <span class="smcap">Fred Fearnot's</span>
+Wonderful Adventures in <span class="smcap">School</span>, at <span class="smcap">College</span>,
+on the <span class="smcap">Stage</span>, <span class="smcap">Out West</span> and as a
+<span class="smcap">Detective</span>. They are <span class="smcap">Bright</span>, <span class="smcap">Interesting</span>
+and <span class="smcap">Fascinating</span>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">COMPLETE LIST.</p>
+
+<table summary="COMPLETE LIST">
+<tr><td class="tdr">1</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot; or, School Days at Avon.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">2</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot, Detective; or, Balking a Desperate Game.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">3</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Daring Rescue; or, A Hero in Spite of Himself.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">4</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Narrow Escape; or, The Plot That Failed.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">5</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot at Avon Again; or, His Second Term at School.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">6</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Pluck; or, His Race to Save a Life.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">7</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot as an Actor; or, His Fame Before the Footlights.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">8</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot at Sea; or, A Chase Across the Ocean.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">9</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot Out West; or, Adventures With the Cowboys.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">10</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Great Peril; or, Running Down the Counterfeiters.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">11</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Double Victory; or, Killing Two Birds With One Stone.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">12</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Game Finish; or, His Bicycle Race to Save a Million.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">13</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Great Run; or, An Engineer For a Week.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">14</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Twenty Rounds; or, His Fight to Save His Honor.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">15</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Engine Company; or, Brave Work as a Fireman.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">16</td><td class="tdl">Fred Fearnot's Good Work; or, Helping a Friend in Need.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>For sale by all newsdealers or sent to any address on receipt
+of price, 5 cents per copy, or 6 copies for 25 cents.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center large">FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,<br />
+29 West 26th St.,           New York.
+</p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2>Secret Service.<br />
+
+<span class="small">Old and Young King Brady, Detectives.</span></h2>
+
+<p class="center huge">32 Pages of Great Detective Stories.</p>
+
+<p class="center large"><b>Handsomely Decorated Covers.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center large"><b>Issued Weekly. Price 5 Cents.</b></p>
+
+<p>Containing Stories of Old King Brady, the
+Great Detective, assisted by Young King
+Brady, his faithful young pupil.</p>
+
+<p>Embracing the most daring adventures,
+startling scenes and hairbreadth escapes ever
+published.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">READ THE FOLLOWING LIST.</p>
+
+<table summary="list">
+<tr><td>1.</td><td class="tdl">The Black Band; or, The Two King Bradys Against a Hard Gang.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>2.</td><td class="tdl">Told by the Ticker; or, The Two King Bradys on a Wall Street Case.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>3.</td><td class="tdl">The Bradys After a Million; or, Their Chase to Save an Heiress.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>4.</td><td class="tdl">The Bradys' Great Bluff; or, A Bunco Game that Failed to Work.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>5.</td><td class="tdl">In and Out; or, The Two King Bradys on a Lively Chase.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>For sale by all newsdealers or sent postpaid on receipt of
+price, 5 cents per copy, by</p>
+
+
+<p class="center large">FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,<br />
+29 West 26th St.,          New York.<br />
+</p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="Handsome_Harry" id="Handsome_Harry">Handsome Harry.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center"><b>Stories of Land and Sea.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center large"><b>Issued Weekly. - 32 pages.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center large">HANDSOMELY EMBELLISHED COVER.</p>
+
+<p class="center large">THE MOST ENTERTAINING AND
+EXCITING LIBRARY PUBLISHED</p>
+
+<p>Read about HANDSOME HARRY, <span class="smcap">the
+Brave Commander</span>.</p>
+
+<p>Read about CHING-CHING, <span class="smcap">the Tricky
+Chinee</span>.</p>
+
+<p>Read about SAMSON, <span class="smcap">the Gigantic
+Negro</span>.</p>
+
+<p class="center large"><b>Price 5 Cents. Price 5 Cents.</b></p>
+
+
+<p class="center">LIST OF NUMBERS:</p>
+
+<table summary="list">
+<tr><td>1.</td><td class="tdl">Handsome Harry of the Fighting Belvedere.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>2.</td><td class="tdl">Handsome Harry's Peril; or, Saved by His Trusty Crew.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>3.</td><td class="tdl">Handsome Harry's Chase; or, On the Track of the "Vulture."</td></tr>
+<tr><td>4.</td><td class="tdl">Handsome Harry in Africa; or, A Land Hunt for His Foe.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>5.</td><td class="tdl">Handsome Harry and the Slaver; or, Adventures With Friends and Foes.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>If you cannot procure any numbers of Handsome Harry from
+your newsdealer, send the price, 5 cents per copy, to us and we
+will send any copies ordered by return mail. Address</p>
+
+
+<p class="center large">FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,<br />
+29 West 26th St.,              New York.<br />
+</p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="OUR_10_CENT_HAND_BOOKS" id="OUR_10_CENT_HAND_BOOKS">OUR 10 CENT HAND BOOKS.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="center"><i>USEFUL, INSTRUCTIVE AND AMUSING.</i></p>
+
+<p>Containing valuable information on almost every subject such as <b>Writing</b>,
+<b>Speaking</b>, <b>Dancing</b>, <b>Cooking</b>; also, <b>Rules of Etiquette</b>, <b>The Art
+of Ventriloquism</b>, <b>Gymnastic Exercises</b>, and <b>The Science of Self-Defense</b>,
+<b>etc.</b>, <b>etc.</b></p>
+
+
+<table summary="list">
+<tr><td class="tdr">1</td><td class="tdl">NAPOLEON'S ORACULUM AND DREAM BOOK.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">2</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO TRICKS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">3</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO FLIRT.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">4</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DANCE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">5</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO MAKE LOVE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">6</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME AN ATHLETE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">7</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO KEEP BIRDS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">8</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A SCIENTIST.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">9</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A VENTRILOQUIST.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">10</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BOX.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">11</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO WRITE LOVE LETTERS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">12</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO WRITE LETTERS TO LADIES.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">13</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO IT; OR, BOOK OF ETIQUETTE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">14</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO MAKE CANDY.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">15</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME RICH.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">16</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">17</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DRESS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">18</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME BEAUTIFUL.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">19</td><td class="tdl">FRANK TOUSEY'S U. S. DISTANCE TABLES, POCKET COMPANION AND GUIDE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">20</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO ENTERTAIN AN EVENING PARTY.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">21</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO HUNT AND FISH.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">22</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO SECOND SIGHT.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">23</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO EXPLAIN DREAMS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">24</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO WRITE LETTERS TO GENTLEMEN.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">25</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A GYMNAST.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">26</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO ROW, SAIL AND BUILD A BOAT.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">27</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO RECITE AND BOOK OF RECITATIONS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">28</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO TELL FORTUNES.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">29</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME AN INVENTOR.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">30</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO COOK.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">31</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A SPEAKER.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">32</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO RIDE A BICYCLE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">33</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BEHAVE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">34</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO FENCE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">35</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO PLAY GAMES.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">36</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO SOLVE CONUNDRUMS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">37</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO KEEP HOUSE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">38</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME YOUR OWN DOCTOR.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">39</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO RAISE DOGS, POULTRY, PIGEONS AND RABBITS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">40</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO MAKE AND SET TRAPS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">41</td><td class="tdl">THE BOYS OF NEW YORK END MEN'S JOKE BOOK.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">42</td><td class="tdl">THE BOYS OF NEW YORK STUMP SPEAKER.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">43</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A MAGICIAN.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">44</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO WRITE IN AN ALBUM.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">45</td><td class="tdl">THE BOYS OF NEW YORK MINSTREL GUIDE AND JOKE BOOK.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">46</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO MAKE AND USE ELECTRICITY.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">47</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">48</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BUILD AND SAIL CANOES.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">49</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DEBATE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">50</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO STUFF BIRDS AND ANIMALS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">51</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO TRICKS WITH CARDS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">52</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO PLAY CARDS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">53</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO WRITE LETTERS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">54</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO KEEP AND MANAGE PETS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">55</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO COLLECT STAMPS AND COINS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">56</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">57</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO MAKE MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">58</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A DETECTIVE.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">59</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO MAKE A MAGIC LANTERN.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">60</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A PHOTOGRAPHER.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">61</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A BOWLER.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">62</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A WEST POINT MILITARY CADET.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">63</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A NAVAL CADET.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">64</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO MAKE ELECTRICAL MACHINES.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">65</td><td class="tdl">MULDOON'S JOKES.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">66</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO PUZZLES.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">67</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO ELECTRICAL TRICKS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">68</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO CHEMICAL TRICKS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">69</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO SLEIGHT OF HAND.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">70</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO MAKE MAGIC TOYS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">71</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO MECHANICAL TRICKS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">72</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO SIXTY TRICKS WITH CARDS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">73</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO TRICKS WITH NUMBERS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">74</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO WRITE LETTERS CORRECTLY.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">75</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME A CONJURER.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">76</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO TELL FORTUNES BY THE HAND.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">77</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO FORTY TRICKS WITH CARDS.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">78</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO DO THE BLACK ART.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdr">79</td><td class="tdl">HOW TO BECOME AN ACTOR.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>All the above books are for sale by newsdealers throughout the United States and
+Canada, or they will be sent, post-paid, to your address, on receipt of 10c. each.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Send Your Name and Address for Our Latest Illustrated Catalogue.</i></p>
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+<p class="center"><span class="large"><b>FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,</b></span><br />
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+</p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="Transcribers_Notes" id="Transcribers_Notes">Transcriber's Notes:</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The Table of Contents was added by the transcriber.</p>
+
+<p>Images may be clicked to view larger versions.</p>
+
+<p>Some inconsistent punctuation has been normalized throughout the book.</p>
+
+<p>Some inconsistent hyphenation (e.g. smokestack vs. smoke-stack) has been retained.</p>
+
+<p>Some illustrations in this book appear to have been lifted from
+Locomotive Engine Driving: A Practical Manual for Engineers in Charge
+of Locomotive Engines by Michael Reynolds (London: Crosby Lockwood,
+1888).</p>
+
+<p>Fractions have been normalized to the form X-Y/Z.</p>
+
+<p>Page 5, changed "locomotiive" to "locomotive."</p>
+
+<p>Page 7, changed "Engilsh" to "English."</p>
+
+<p>Page 8, changed "clumsey" to "clumsy" and "prise" to "prize."</p>
+
+<p>Page 16, changed "guage" to "gauge."</p>
+
+<p>Page 17, changed "will came" to "will come."</p>
+
+<p>Page 19, changed "where on can" to "where one can."</p>
+
+<p>Page 21, changed "gain" to "gains."</p>
+
+<p>Page 22, changed "reponsibility" to "responsibility."</p>
+
+<p>Page 24, changed "read then" to "read them."</p>
+
+<p>Page 27, changed "thinest" to "thinnest."</p>
+
+<p>Page 29, changed "guage" to "gauge" (twice) and "at at" to "at."</p>
+
+<p>Page 34, changed "undestand" to "understand."</p>
+
+<p>Page 51, changed "shown it Fig. 35" to "shown in Fig. 35" and "llittle" to "little."</p>
+
+<p>Page 56, changed "definately" to "definitely."</p>
+
+<p>Page 57, changed "air-brakes consists" to "air-brake consists."</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER***</p>
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@@ -0,0 +1,3072 @@
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, How to Become an Engineer, by Frank W. Doughty
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: How to Become an Engineer
+
+
+Author: Frank W. Doughty
+
+
+
+Release Date: January 6, 2014  [eBook #44604]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Demian Katz and the Online Distributed Proofreading
+Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by
+the Digital Library of the Falvey Memorial Library, Villanova University
+(http://digital.library.villanova.edu)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 44604-h.htm or 44604-h.zip:
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/44604/44604-h/44604-h.htm)
+      or
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/44604/44604-h.zip)
+
+
+      Images of the original pages are available through the
+      Digital Library of the Falvey Memorial Library,
+      Villanova University. See
+      http://digital.library.villanova.edu/Item/vudl:267659
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+      Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
+
+      Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=).
+
+
+
+
+
+HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.
+
+Containing Full Instructions How to Proceed in
+   Order to Become a Locomotive Engineer;
+    Also Directions for Building a Model
+      Locomotive; together with a Full
+        Description of Everything an
+            Engineer Should Know.
+
+Profusely Illustrated.
+
+BY AN OLD ENGINEER ON THE NEW YORK CENTRAL
+RAILROAD.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+New York:
+Frank Tousey, Publisher
+29 West 26th Street.
+
+Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1898, by
+Frank Tousey,
+in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D.C.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+  CHAPTER I.   HISTORICAL.
+  CHAPTER II.  DESCRIPTION OF THE LOCOMOTIVE.
+  CHAPTER III. HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.
+  CHAPTER IV.  DUTIES OF AN ENGINEER.
+  CHAPTER V.   HOW TO RUN A TRAIN.
+  CHAPTER VI.  HOW TO BUILD A MODEL LOCOMOTIVE.
+  CHAPTER VII. CONCLUSION.
+
+
+
+
+How to Become an Engineer.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+HISTORICAL.
+
+
+To begin a subject properly you must begin at the beginning.
+
+Boys who don't like history need not read this chapter, for in it we
+tell how the steam engine began, and if it never had begun, you know,
+there would never have been any engineers, nor any necessity for
+writing this book.
+
+For two or three generations we have had the story of James Watt told
+us; how when a boy and watching his mother's tea-kettle one day he saw
+the steam lift the lid, and that suggested the idea that if a little
+steam could lift the lid of a kettle, a great deal would lift still
+heavier weights and revolutionize the world.
+
+Now they tell us that Watt was not the first one to have this idea by
+several, that it was first suggested by the Marquis of Worcester, in
+his book called the "Century of Inventions," as "a way to drive up
+water by fire," A. D. 1663.
+
+This was about a hundred years before Watt came on deck, but the
+marquis never put his idea into practice, and Watt did, so to the
+latter the credit belongs.
+
+Here are a few dates:
+
+Watt's invention of the separate condenser, 1765; Watt's first patent,
+1769; Watt's first working engine introduced into a manufactory, 1775;
+first steam engine erected in Ireland, 1791; first steamboat run on the
+Hudson, 1797; first steamboat abroad, 1801.
+
+First regular steamboat ever run was from Albany to New York. The name
+of the boat was the North River, her builder was Robert Fulton, and she
+made the passage in 33 hours.
+
+The first railroad was built in England, in 1811.
+
+The first ocean steamer was the Savannah, an American craft of 350
+tons, which sailed from New York for Liverpool, July 15, 1819, making
+the voyage in 26 days.
+
+Such were the early beginnings of steam.
+
+There are three principal kinds of engineers, locomotive, steamboat and
+stationary.
+
+In this little book we propose to deal mainly with the duties of a
+locomotive engineer.
+
+If one is a good locomotive engineer he can easily learn to manage
+the engine of a steamboat; and if he is skilled in either of these
+particulars he will have no difficulty with the biggest stationary
+engine ever built.
+
+[Illustration: THE FIRST LOCOMOTIVE.]
+
+The work of the different engineers differs only in detail, not in kind.
+
+Let us now glance at the history of the steam horse, which has done
+more than any other one thing to revolutionize the world.
+
+Be very sure that the locomotive, with its pistons, its spinning
+drive wheels, its polished steel and shining brass, did not come into
+existence all at once.
+
+By no means. Like everything else in the way of mechanical invention
+that attains greatness, the locomotive had an insignificant beginning
+to reach which we shall be obliged to get back somewhere about the
+middle of the last century, for then it was that the desire for faster
+traveling than horses can furnish seems to have had its birth.
+
+The first attempt at a railway seems to have been at Colebrook Dale,
+England, a spot celebrated for having the first iron bridge in the
+world--where a small iron road was constructed in connection with some
+mines; a horse furnished the motive power here.
+
+The first railroad then was without a locomotive, and, strangely enough
+the first locomotive was without a railroad on which to run.
+
+The first locomotive made its appearance in France. It was simply a
+huge tea kettle on wheels, and was built by Joseph Cugnot at Paris in
+the year 1769.
+
+It is the custom of English writers to ignore Cugnot's invention, and
+claim for themselves the origin of the locomotive; but that is only a
+pleasant way the English usually have.
+
+Cugnot's locomotive actually existed though, and was undoubtedly the
+first. It was operated by means of two bronze cylinders, into which the
+steam passed through a tube from the boiler--escaping through another
+tube.
+
+The boiler was fastened on the front of the car, which moved on three
+wheels--the steam acted only on the foremost wheel.
+
+The speed of Cugnot's locomotive was about three miles an hour. On the
+first trial it ran into a building and was broken to pieces.
+
+In 1784 the famous Watt patented a steam locomotive engine in England,
+which, however, never was put to use.
+
+In 1802, Trevethick and Vivian patented a locomotive, which, in 1804,
+traveled at the rate of five miles an hour, drawing behind it a load of
+ten tons of coal.
+
+Several other "traveling engines," as they were then styled, were
+invented by other mechanical engineers with only moderate success, it
+being reserved for Stephenson, in 1811, to build the first locomotive
+that should prove of practical use.
+
+About this time a man named Thomas Gray, of Nottingham, England,
+brought upon himself the contempt and ridicule of the whole English
+nation by pushing forward the idea of the locomotive in connection with
+coal mines.
+
+[Illustration: OLD NO. 1.]
+
+"It is all very well to spend money on these railway schemes," said
+a member of parliament about that time referring to Gray's projects,
+"it will do some good to the poor, but I will eat all the coals your
+railways will ever carry."
+
+127,000,000 tons were carried recently in one year, on English
+railroads alone. What a tough time this parliamentary slow coach would
+have had to swallow all that!
+
+The first practical locomotive in the world--Stephenson's invention,
+was Old No. 1, which pulled the first regular train on the Stockton and
+Darlington R. R. on Tuesday, September 27, 1825.
+
+Old No. 1 cost $2,500 to build. It was a very clumsy affair; nothing
+better, in fact, than a big boiler on four wheels, which were moved by
+great levers worked by pistons from the top of the machine.
+
+[Illustration: THE ROCKET.]
+
+Old No. 1 has been preserved, and was, in the year 1859, placed upon a
+pedestal in that English town of Darlington as a public memorial of the
+beginning of the railway.
+
+No sooner had the Stockton and Darlington R. R. proved itself a success
+than all England was in arms against it. Here are some of the absurd
+objections urged against railroads, taken from the newspapers of the
+day.
+
+Steam horses were "contrary to nature;" they were "damaging to good
+morals and religion;" the smoke of the locomotive would "obscure the
+sun, and thereby ruin the crops." Farmyards and farmhouses would be
+burned by their sparks; the clanking, puffing locomotive would have
+such an effect on the mind as to drive people crazy (this was backed up
+by certificates from a dozen doctors); locomotives would cause springs
+to dry up and fields to become sterile; they would create great chasms
+by constantly running over the same ground.
+
+What twaddle!
+
+Yet all their objections were made in good faith, and we have by no
+means selected the most absurd.
+
+Old No. 1. proving too clumsy, a lighter locomotive was soon after
+built by Stephenson, called the "Rocket," which we illustrate. It won a
+prize of $1,500 in 1829, and is still preserved in the great locomotive
+works at Newcastle-on-Tyne, England.
+
+The first railroad in America was built from the granite quarries of
+Quincy, Mass., to the Neponset river, a few miles distant.
+
+Peter Cooper built one of the first American locomotives. It ran on the
+Baltimore and Ohio R. R., and was called the Tom Thumb.
+
+The boiler of the Tom Thumb was built of gun barrels and shaped like a
+huge bottle standing upright upon a simple platform car.
+
+Such was the beginning of the locomotive.
+
+In Great Britain alone over 600,000,000 people are annually drawn by
+locomotives.
+
+Add to these figures, which represent only a small island, the persons
+drawn by locomotives in America, Europe, and other parts of the world,
+and the number becomes stupendous almost beyond belief.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+DESCRIPTION OF THE LOCOMOTIVE.
+
+
+In order to become an engineer, the first thing necessary is to gain a
+thorough understanding of the peculiarly complicated machine which it
+is the duty of engineers to control.
+
+This is of the highest importance, and a careful study of this chapter
+and the diagrams accompanying it will be of great assistance to anybody
+who contemplates becoming an engineer.
+
+There are locomotives and locomotives, all built on the same general
+plan, but varying in details according to the ideas of their builders,
+and the class of work which they are expected to perform.
+
+[Illustration: AN AMERICAN LOCOMOTIVE WITH TWO DRIVING WHEELS.]
+
+Thus for elevated roads and short surface lines, devoted principally to
+passenger travel, locomotives of light capacity are employed; costing
+less at the start, and being less expensive to run.
+
+[Illustration: AMERICAN LOCOMOTIVE WITH FOUR DRIVING WHEELS.]
+
+The "dummy" is even a grade below these, being practically a stationary
+engine set on a car with driving wheels attached.
+
+[Illustration: OUTSIDE VIEW OF LOCOMOTIVE.]
+
+[Illustration: INSIDE VIEW OF LOCOMOTIVE.]
+
+In America our locomotives are built with long boilers and have a
+general trim appearance.
+
+Some have two driving wheels, others, still longer, have four. We
+illustrate both of them.
+
+English locomotives present a clumsy appearance alongside the American.
+
+For us to attempt to decide which is the best, would be the height of
+presumption.
+
+Certain it is, however, that English locomotives do run at a greater
+average speed than those in the United States.
+
+We will now proceed to describe by tabular arrangement, an English
+locomotive.
+
+This description will practically describe the American locomotive as
+well.
+
+We cannot enter into a detailed description of both for want of space,
+and select therefore the machine which has attained to the highest
+speed.
+
+We will first look at the outside of the locomotive.
+
+1, 2, 3, Barrel of Boiler. 6, Smoke-box. 22, Smoke Stack. 32, Spring
+balance.
+
+33, Whistle. 34, Dome. 64, Exhaust pipe. 70, Cab. 85, Brake blocks. 87,
+Life guards. 88, Trailing axle and wheel. 59, Heading axle and wheel.
+54, Driving axle. O, Speed indicator. P, Splasher. S, Sand-box. T,
+Tool-box. V, Safety valve. W, Balance-wheel.
+
+Let us now take an inside view of the locomotive. Compare the numbers
+carefully with the cut, and take time to think what you are doing,
+otherwise don't read this part at all.
+
+1, 2, 3, Rings arranged telescopically, forming barrel of boiler.
+4, Solid angle-iron ring. 5, Tube plate. 6, Smoke box. 7, Shell, or
+covering plate. 8, Foundation ring. 9, Throat plate. 10, Back plate.
+11, Fire door. 12, Covering plate of inside fire-box. 13, Tube plate.
+14, Back plate. 15, Stays. 16, Mouth-piece. 17, Stays from inside
+fire-box to shell plate. 18, Palm stays. 19, Tubes. 20, Smoke-box door.
+21, Pinching screw. 22, Chimney. 23, Chimney cap. 24, Blast pipe. 25,
+Top of blast pipe. 26, Balance weight. 27, Wheel spokes. 28, Front
+buffer. 29, Mud plug. 30, Safety valve. 31, Safety lever. 32, Spring
+balance. 33, Whistle. 34, Dome. 35, Regulator. 36, Steam pipes. 37,
+Elbow pipe. 38, Brick arch. 39, Fire bars. 40, Ash pan. 41, Front
+damper. 42, Back damper. 43, Frame plate. 44, Iron buffer beam (front).
+45, Iron buffer beam (back). 46, (See half width plan) cylinder. 47,
+Cylinder posts, valve. 48, Valve chest. 49, Steel motion plate. 50,
+Horn blocks. 51, Axle boxes. 52, Slide bars. 53, Connecting rod. 54,
+Crank shaft. 55, Crank shaft, big end of. 56, Crank shaft, arm of. 57,
+Expansion link. 58, Weigh-bar shaft. 59, Valve spindle. 60, Valve rod
+guide. (See half width plan). 61, Pump. 62, Delivery pipe. 63, Field
+pipe. 64, Exhaust pipe. 65, Volute spring. 66, Draw-bar hook. 67, Lamp
+iron. 68, Oil cup. 69, Oil pipes. 70, Cab. 71, Regulator handle. 72,
+Reversing lever. 73, Draw-bar. 74, Draw-pin. 75, Steam-brake cylinder.
+76, Hand-brake. 77, Sand-rod. 78, Front damper. 79, Back damper. 80,
+Trailing wheel. 81, Driving wheel. 82, Leading wheel. 83, Spring. 84,
+Hand rail. 85, Brake blocks. 86, Waste water-cocks. 87, Life guard. 88,
+Railing axle. 89, Leading axle. Z, Lead plug.
+
+43, Frame plate from end to end of engine. 44, Iron buffer-beam. 46,
+Cylinders. 50, Horn block, to carry axle-box and brass. 51, Axle-box
+and brass. 52, Slide bars. 53, Connecting-rod. 54, Driving axle. 55,
+Big end of driving axle. 56, Arm of driving axle. 59, Valve-spindle.
+60, Valve-rod guide. 61, Pump. 76, Hand brake. 85, Brake blocks. 88,
+Trailing axle. 89, Leading axle. 90, Piston rod. 91, Piston head, held
+on the rod by a brass nut. 92, Backway eccentric rod. 93, Frontway
+eccentric rod. 94, Eccentric Straps. 95, Eccentric sheaves. 96, Tire.
+97, Lip on tire. 98, Brake irons. 99, Foot plating. 100, Transverse
+stay. A, Water space between inside and outside fire boxes. B,
+Slide-block with end of pump-ram screwed into the end. C, Link motion
+(see 57, inside view). D, Slide valve rod, working guide. H, Inside
+journal, showing how the axle is supported inside of frame plates. I,
+Cross-head, solid, with piston rod.
+
+[Illustration: UNDERNEATH THE LOCOMOTIVE--HALF WIDTH PLAN.]
+
+15, stays in walls of fire-boxes. 18, stays from crown plate to
+covering plate. 19, tubes. 23, smoke-stack. 40, ash-pan. 54, crank
+shaft. 55, big end of crank-shaft. 56, arm of big end. 34, dome.
+
+[Illustration: IN FRONT OF THE LOCOMOTIVE CROSS-SECTION.]
+
+A, water space. F, nave of wheel. P, P, splashers over driving wheels.
+R, right side of engine. L, left side of engine.
+
+75, steam brake handle. 33, whistle handle. 23, smoke stack. K, K,
+weather glasses. O, speed indicator. E, conductor's bell. N, oil for
+cylinder. X, blower handle. R, right side of engine. L, left side of
+engine. M, M, gauge glasses.
+
+
+SOME POINTS ABOUT THE LOCOMOTIVE.
+
+Here are a few interesting points about this particular locomotive
+which we have just been describing.
+
+It is a single engine on six wheels--which are well distributed, with a
+large boiler of abundant steam generating power with cylinders of great
+capacity, and driving wheels of moderate diameter.
+
+It is accompanied by a tender on six wheels, capable of holding a
+supply of 2,520 gallons of water, and 40 cwt. of coal.
+
+Notwithstanding its great capacity, this tender is so low that a tall
+man may stand on top of the coal without fear of being knocked down by
+bridges.
+
+There are over 47 tons of metal in the locomotive and tender.
+
+When they are in full working order the gross weight with water and
+fuel amounts to 59 tons.
+
+This locomotive drew its first train 87 miles in 1 hour and 50 minutes.
+
+
+DIFFERENCES IN LOCOMOTIVES.
+
+It is an old saying and a true one that no two locomotives are ever
+alike, any more than two men are ever alike.
+
+The difference is due not so much to the materials of which the
+locomotive is built as to the method in which they are put together,
+for no two engines were ever put together geometrically alike.
+
+They may differ in some simple matter. It may be in the casting of the
+cylinders, in the quality of the copper of the fire box, in the valves
+or in the smoke stack. Whatever the difference may be there is still
+always a difference which is bound to affect the running qualities
+either for better or for worse.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER.
+
+
+The boy who aims to become an engineer, if he desires success, must
+make up his mind to two things.
+
+First, that he will, all his life, have plenty of hard work.
+
+Second, that he will, in spite of all obstacles become a good engineer.
+
+A boy who looks forward to the honorable calling should be of robust
+health and perfect physically. If these conditions do not exist, he
+should abandon the thought at once, and turn his attention to something
+else.
+
+There is no royal road to engineering any more than there is to any
+other honorable calling.
+
+A position must first be obtained in the round house as general helper.
+
+For a time the candidate must content himself with doing chores,
+cleaning up and any odd jobs which are given him to do.
+
+At this stage of the game he must cultivate habits of observation, be
+an attentive listener and try to understand and remember the "engine
+talk," that is going on about him.
+
+Everything he learns in this way is going to be of service later on.
+
+For the first few months, unless he is fortunate enough to gain favor
+in the eyes of some obliging engineer, no one is going to stop to
+explain matters and he need not expect it. Nevertheless there are a
+thousand and one little things that he can pick up if he is shrewd, all
+of which will come in play later on.
+
+When the locomotive is taken out watch how they do it. When it comes in
+keep your eyes open for points, and you will be sure to get them. When
+it breaks down and comes in for repairs then is the very time of all
+others to be on hand if you can and watch how they fix it.
+
+Every day will bring its own information--the boy's work is to watch
+and remember, but he must not ask too many questions, and never any at
+improper times, unless he desires the ill-will of everybody in the yard.
+
+By and bye he will be made an oiler, put to cleaning the big iron horse
+and other work of similar sort.
+
+After a time he will slip into a fireman's job, and then he must
+understand that his chance has come. Now all depends upon himself.
+
+Make friends with your engineer while you are acting as fireman, and
+learn from him all you can.
+
+The way to make friends is to be industrious, obliging and always
+courteous, no matter how tired you are or how badly things seem to go.
+
+The troubles and disappointments of one day should not be brought down
+to the next.
+
+Let every day be a new beginning in itself.
+
+Don't drink.
+
+Don't swear.
+
+Don't lose your temper and flare out under reproof.
+
+Don't shirk your work and try to do as little us you can.
+
+[Illustration: BEHIND THE LOCOMOTIVE--LOOKING IN FROM THE CAB.]
+
+Don't say to yourself so and so ain't my work and I ain't going to do
+it. Do whatever your hands find to do and do it with all your might.
+
+A model engineer is distinguished by the fullness of his knowledge of
+the engine, and this must be learned while you are a fireman--not after
+you become an engineer.
+
+He should love his work--the locomotive should be his hobby--and
+whatever contributes to enlarge his stock of information concerning
+it should contribute to his happiness. Unless he can feel that way,
+he should promptly step out of the cab and turn his attention to some
+other business, for he can never hope to make a good engineer.
+
+On the engine is the only place where one can learn to be an engineer.
+
+During the time the engine is under steam with a train, everything
+seen, heard, felt and smelt is capable of affording a lesson.
+
+On the engine the eye is trained to distinguish different colors at
+considerable distances. If one is color-blind he cannot be a good
+engineer.
+
+On the engine the ear learns to detect the slightest variation in the
+beats and knocks about the machinery--to distinguish the difference
+between the knock of an axle box and the knock of a journal.
+
+On the engine the body learns to distinguish the shocks, oscillations,
+etc., which are due to a defective road from those which arise from a
+defective engine. The olfactory nerves became very sensitive so as to
+detect the generation of heat from friction before any mischief is done.
+
+It is only while an engine is in steam and going at good speed that the
+rocks, coral-reefs and sand-banks on railways can be seen and learned,
+and the value of and the rank acquired by an engineer are in exact
+proportion to the pains he takes to find them out, and to remark their
+dangerous position on his chart.
+
+A model engineer can tell you all about any particular engine he
+happens to see merely by glancing at it.
+
+He will be able to say this was built by so and so. I know it by this
+crank, that piston. "Look here," he says, "that rod was built when I
+was a boy, it's all out of date now, consequently the engine must have
+been built in such a year."
+
+In short the model engineer should be familiar with the history of
+locomotive engines from Old No. 1 down to date.
+
+The model engineer is always a good fireman.
+
+A man may be a first-rate mechanic, he may have worked at the best
+class of machinery, he may have built engines and have read all the
+published books on the locomotive, and yet, if he is not a good hand
+at the coal shovel, he will never be a first-class engineer.
+
+A good fireman knows when to put on coal, how and where and just how
+much. A man may be the best mechanic the world ever saw and know
+nothing of these things which are the very all essentials of a good
+engineer.
+
+A model engineer is clean himself, and his engine is cleaner.
+
+Cleanliness is said to be next to godliness. Upon a railroad it may
+with truth be said that cleanliness is next below the highest talent
+and next above the length of service.
+
+A clean engineer frequently scales the ladder of progress much faster
+than a dirty one, although the latter may have everything else in his
+favor.
+
+A model engineer runs the most important trains, and he is never the
+man who wore the greasy, dirty cap or the coat and trousers all smeared
+with oil.
+
+What is the secret of constant successful engine driving?
+
+Not length of service, not because a man has served so many years on
+freight trains and so many more on passenger trains, for the best
+engineers are ever those who have been promoted over the heads of
+others for their smartness.
+
+Promotion according to merit should be the invariable rule on
+railroads. Seniority should have nothing to do with it. The position
+is too important, there are too many lives at stake, too much money
+involved to make it right or proper to push one man forward beyond
+another simply because of the length of his service. That sort of thing
+is all right for ordinary business, but for engine driving it won't do.
+
+Merit tells.
+
+To the best engineer belong the best trains.
+
+Chance never built an engine, and it should have nothing to do with
+running it.
+
+Yet the opposite way of doing things is the general rule.
+
+Engineer A retires, dies or is killed, and Engineer B is promoted
+because he happens to be next on the list. He may be a dull, stupid
+fellow, and Engineer C as bright as a dollar, but in the chance death
+of A, B gets the prize, and everybody that has any interest in the
+successful running of his train becomes the loser thereby.
+
+Engine driving, to be good, must be based upon rules and principles.
+
+He who strictly observes them wins; he who don't, loses. With the
+latter all is uncertainty; the hand trembles upon the regulator, the
+eye watches with painful anxiety the needle of the pressure gauge, and
+gazes into the fire to find out its deficiencies, but gains nothing
+but blindness by the attempt.
+
+With the engineer who has a reason for every act performed, either
+by himself or his fireman, all is different. He works by rules and
+principles that have proved themselves a thousand times over to be
+safe, practical and certain in their results.
+
+Sound rules and principles are absolutely sure in the effects of their
+application--not right to-day and wrong to-morrow; not right in a short
+trip and all astray on a long one; not right on one particular engine
+and wrong on another; not right on the first part of the run and wrong
+at the end; not right with one kind of coal and wrong with another, but
+_always right, every time_.
+
+Under the guidance of sound rules and principles, the mind of the
+driver is full, and he is enabled, under all circumstances, to handle
+the regulator with confidence, to travel with a boiler full of steam,
+and to finish with success.
+
+In a word, these are rules and principles which lead up to and make the
+success of an engineer.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+DUTIES OF AN ENGINEER.
+
+
+Let us now consider in detail some of the more important duties of an
+engineer.
+
+
+THE NOTICE BOARD.
+
+Before going to his engine an engineer should, for his own safety, as
+well as that of the public, visit the special and general notice boards
+and post himself fully upon the running of the trains for the day. By
+neglecting this more than one engineer has lost his life.
+
+An anecdote bearing on this is related on good authority, as follows:
+
+"By incessant rain a river had become so swollen that, owing to the
+rush of water, the spiles of a wooden railway bridge became shifted.
+
+"The bridge was inspected, and one side of it pronounced to be
+dangerous. Arrangements were made to use only one track until
+repairs could be made, and notice of such arrangements posted in the
+round-house.
+
+"The engineer neglected to visit the notice board, ran his train past
+the man appointed to pilot him over the break, got his train off the
+track, and was killed."
+
+After the engineer has read the notices and made himself thoroughly
+acquainted with them, he may proceed to his engine--not before.
+
+
+INSPECTION OF THE ENGINE.
+
+When on the foot plate the first thing an engineer wants to do is to
+inspect his engine in every part.
+
+Begin with the water in the gauge glass and ascertain its level and
+find out whether it correctly indicates the height of the water in the
+boiler by opening the lower cock in the usual manner.
+
+Satisfied that the boiler is safe, the engineer must assume the
+responsibility of looking after it, for should anything prove wrong
+afterward, he alone can be called to account.
+
+He should also observe what pressure of steam there is in the boiler,
+what is the condition of the fire, how much coal there is in the tender
+and its quality, and lastly that the water supply is all right.
+
+If the inspection is made properly all will go well; if in a
+half-hearted, slip-shod fashion trouble is sure to follow.
+
+
+INSPECTION OF AN ENGINE OVER A PIT.
+
+It is a good and a safe rule to examine an engine over a pit before
+starting out. When this is done properly and regularly, the habit is
+unmistakably the mark of a good engineer.
+
+That an engine may be properly examined over a pit, it is necessary
+that it should be placed in such a position that every part of it may
+be seen and inspected without having the machinery moved.
+
+The examination, to be complete, should be commenced at one specified
+point, and continued all around the engine, until the engineer returns
+to the place where he began.
+
+In general, the only tools needed are wrenches.
+
+The inspection should begin at the trailing engine axle, on the
+engineer's side, and the best rule is to examine everything, not
+forgetting the fact that more engines break down in consequence of
+bolts and split pins working out than from any other cause.
+
+After the engineer's side has been properly examined, the under side
+of the engine next claims attention. The engineer should begin at the
+crank shaft, taking his stand, where it is possible to do so, between
+the shaft and the fire box, while he is testing the bolts and rivets
+connected with it.
+
+
+BIG ENDS.
+
+Big Ends require to be fitted brass and brass, to work well, and to be
+well-cottered or bolted up, but with sufficient slackness on the crank
+bearing to allow of their being easily moved sideways by hand, so that
+a little room may be left for the expansion of the journal by heat.
+
+Big End brasses do best, wear longest, and knock least, when tightened
+up a little at a time and often, instead of being allowed to run until
+they thump alarmingly. With proper attention they seldom run hot.
+
+
+LITTLE ENDS.
+
+Little Ends need scarcely any supervision excepting what is required
+from the oiler, provided they are fitted with steel bushes. Those
+fitted with brasses require the same attention as Big Ends.
+
+
+ECCENTRICS.
+
+When the eccentrics are being examined particular attention should be
+paid to the bolts, nuts, safety-cotters and set-pins. The bolts which
+hold the two halves of each eccentric strap together should always nip
+tightly, as any slackness always affects the engine's speed.
+
+Inspect carefully also the inside springs and axle boxes, specially
+the latter. See that the fireman oils them; if he does not, you are to
+blame.
+
+The ash-pan, piston rod, smoke box, etc., all need to be looked at with
+care, for to run right the engine must start right, and this brings us
+to the most important thing of all--the condition of the fire before
+leaving the round house, for there is no other one thing on which an
+engineer's good name, success and future prospects depend so much as on
+the condition of the fire at the beginning of the day's work.
+
+If the fire is not properly lighted at the start, no matter how good
+the engine or how smart the engineer, constant trouble during the trip,
+to say nothing of an increased consumption of coal which is bound to
+tell against him, will be the result.
+
+Don't get to your work late, and don't allow your fireman to be late.
+If the fire is to be properly built he has got to take time to it.
+Fires thrown together in a hurry always turn out bad.
+
+
+DUTIES OF A FIREMAN.
+
+As the model engineer must first have served as fireman, let us say a
+word on that score.
+
+Before a fireman can serve on a passenger train, he should have served
+awhile as freight brakeman, or in the yard shifting cars. Before going
+on an express train, he must have run on slow trains as fireman. All
+this is necessary that he may acquire a knowledge of the petty details
+of his work.
+
+A superintendent who puts a green hand at firing certainly exhibits a
+great want of good judgment, to say the least, and just this has often
+been the cause of serious accidents and loss of life.
+
+Here are a few things that a man must know before he can become an
+engineer:
+
+1. How to make up a proper fire in a locomotive fire-box.
+
+2. How to handle the shovel when the engine is running.
+
+3. How to learn roads and signals.
+
+4. How to calculate the effect of the weather on the rails.
+
+5. How to manage an engine and train on varying grades.
+
+6. How to have full control of an engine and train at full speed.
+
+7. How to work the steam expansively and yet keep time.
+
+8. How to regulate the water supply.
+
+9. How to read the gauges at a glance and understand just what they
+mean.
+
+Now all these things have got to be learned while a fireman, for unless
+you know them you can never become an engineer.
+
+Some engineers will give no instructions. They demand certain results,
+and if the fireman don't do just what they expect because he does not
+understand what is wanted, they call him a fool, snatch the shovel out
+of his hand and do the work themselves.
+
+It is the engineer who is the fool in this case, and doubly so if he
+loses his temper and swears.
+
+Certainly it is very hard for a sensitive young man to learn of such a
+master, but after all it is good discipline.
+
+Never mind if you are sworn at and dubbed an idiot. No matter if you do
+choke a few fires and stop a few trains. Persevere! Keep your temper,
+watch how the engineer does it and try to do the same yourself next
+time. Show him that you are not the idiot he has called you, prove that
+you are no fool by your patience and perseverance--qualities, like
+enough, which he himself does not possess.
+
+A first class engineer, however, will show a new fireman just what he
+wants done and how to do it.
+
+Here are a few lines from an excellent manual on engineering,
+describing the conduct of a good engineer to his fireman. Read them
+with care:
+
+"With good engineers an awkward fireman soon changes his habits and
+appearance--he gets the knots dressed off of him, as it were. Has he
+been taught to come on duty dirty and late? He is sharply reproved, and
+very properly too. Does he throw the fire irons down anywhere after
+using them? He is told there is a place for everything in that engine.
+Is he dirty about his work? He is shown how to handle the shovel, oil
+feeder and everything else without blackening himself to such a degree
+that a boy in the street mistakes him for a chimney sweep. Thanks to
+such engineers, who deserve much praise for keeping their firemen in
+proper training, for, just as they _are_ trained so will they turn out
+engineers, good or bad."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+HOW TO RUN A TRAIN.
+
+
+A good engineer works his engine with direct reference to the number of
+cars he has to pull.
+
+It would seem as though any fool might know this, yet instances are on
+record where careless engineers have actually pulled out of a station
+without their trains, and never discovered that they were missing until
+they had occasion to whistle for brakes.
+
+
+STARTING.
+
+In starting the regulator should be opened gently, especially with a
+full boiler.
+
+Care is necessary when starting to keep the cylinders and valves clear
+of water. Half a pint of water will wash the faces of the cylinders
+and valves. Slip or no slip, it is better to use a little sand than to
+incur the risk of slipping when the rails are inclined to be slippery.
+
+When the engine begins to feel its load the regulator can be opened
+more. A few clear, sonorous puffs at the start do good; they rouse the
+fire into action at once--there is no hesitation in the matter. They
+also clear the tubes of loose cinders and soot left in them after being
+swept out.
+
+When you are well under way pull the lever up a notch or two at a time
+until you get it just where you want it. Don't jerk it too far, then
+let it out too much and have to pull it back. Feel your way as you go,
+and time and trouble will be saved.
+
+Nothing looks so bad as to see an engineer suddenly close the
+regulator, pull the lever very nearly out of gear and "smack" the steam
+on again. The force with which the steam may strike the piston under
+such circumstances is very great and often may do damage.
+
+To an attentive engineer the start is full of interest; for, although
+he may have made a careful and thorough examination of his engine
+before joining his train, he cannot feel satisfied that all is right
+until the full pressure of the steam is on the piston and the engine
+feels its load.
+
+
+STEAM BLOWING.
+
+Now the engineer must begin to use his ears and eyes.
+
+As the train moves on he listens.
+
+Is the steam blowing?
+
+It is.
+
+Which side?
+
+This is the way to find out.
+
+Suppose a blow is heard at each turn and only when the outside crank
+is nearly in a straight line with the piston rod looking from the
+left-hand side of the foot-plate and with the outside cranks on the
+same center line and on the same side of the axle as the inside crank.
+
+Then it would be discovered that a piston is blowing because the
+sound is intermittent, for the blowing through of a valve would be a
+continuous leaking.
+
+Further it would be certain that the defect was not in the left hand
+cylinder, there being no steam in it when the cranks were in the
+position above described, and therefore we must look to the right hand
+cylinder where the full pressure of steam must be on the piston.
+
+
+BEATS OF THE ENGINE.
+
+There are four beats for one revolution of the driving wheel or the
+crank axle.
+
+These beats tell you in emphatic language whether the engine is running
+right, or whether there is something out of gear.
+
+Learn what they mean and never let your attention be drawn from them.
+
+If the beats weaken--any one of them--it means trouble. Taken in time
+the difficulty may be easily remedied, allowed to pass unnoticed, death
+and disaster may result.
+
+
+KEEPING UP STEAM.
+
+It is scarcely necessary to state that to properly run your engine
+steam must be kept up.
+
+When the engine has got the train up to speed, steam should begin to
+issue from the safety valves. When it does not do so there has not been
+a full boiler, as there always should be at the start and the fireman
+must be made to understand how to make a starting fire in proper shape.
+
+On short runs this does not matter so much, but on express trains it is
+of the highest importance.
+
+On long runs if the engine is not instantly up to the mark at the
+start, and if the feeds must be held off to allow the fire and the
+engine a chance of recovery, the consequences are that the water in the
+boiler gets lower and less, and the uncertainty of ever getting the
+water up again becomes greater every minute, especially with a heavy
+train and against a strong side wind.
+
+
+MANAGEMENT OF FIRES.
+
+Of course the state of the steam depends altogether upon the way
+the fires are managed, but for us to give directions how to manage
+a locomotive fire-box to the best advantage would require pages of
+description which could scarcely be understood unless one had had
+previous practical experience.
+
+Remember one thing, the engineer is responsible for the fire, even if
+he does not make it. He must therefore know when a fire is good and
+when it is bad, _why_ and _what to do_.
+
+We shall, however, describe two styles of fire, the thoroughly bad and
+the thoroughly good. All intermediate grades every man must learn for
+himself.
+
+
+HOW TO BUILD A BAD FIRE.
+
+Pile your coal up in the shape of a cone, by shoveling all the coal
+into the middle of the fire box, and putting as little on the sides as
+you possibly can.
+
+Such a fire possesses the following characteristics: Uncertainty as
+regards steam making, positive certainty as regards the destruction
+of fire boxes and tubes. It generally draws air at the walls of the
+fire-box, and in consequence, the fire-irons are always in the fire,
+knocking it about and wasting the fuel.
+
+As such fires are found in the center of the grate, they weigh down the
+bars and burn them out in the middle in short order. Lastly, the cold
+air being admitted into the fire-box up the sides instead of in the
+middle, comes in direct contact with the heated plates and stays, doing
+them a great deal of damage by causing contraction and expansion.
+
+Take the best engine ever built and let an engineer run it awhile with
+these "haycock" fires, as they are called--and many do it--you will be
+sure to find the boiler subject to sudden leakage, either in the joints
+of the plates or in the stays, the tubes, or the foundation ring. Such
+engines are always in the repair shop, and because of bad firing and
+nothing else.
+
+
+HOW TO BUILD A GOOD FIRE.
+
+The good locomotive fire should maintain steam under all circumstances
+of load or weather, should consume its own smoke, should burn up every
+particle of good matter in the coal, or, in other words, capable of
+being worked to the highest point of economy.
+
+Such a fire requires to be made at the beginning, and maintained in a
+form almost resembling the inside of a saucer, shallow and concave,
+with its thinnest part in the center.
+
+A fire like this will make steam when other fires will make none.
+
+It is the only style of fire that should be permitted by a good
+engineer.
+
+
+FIRING.
+
+To fire properly the fireman should stand in such a position as to be
+able to reach the coals in the tender easily, and to work the shovel
+without shifting his feet, except when he turns slightly on his heels,
+first, toward the coal, and then toward the fire hole.
+
+If a fireman, in the act of firing, lifts his feet off the foot
+plate, he will roll about, and the firing will be improperly done, in
+consequence of the coal being knocked off the shovel by the latter
+catching against the fire hole ring or depletion plate.
+
+Don't jam the shovel into the fire-box--stop it dead at the fire-hole
+ring. Give the coals a fling, discharging them like shot right into
+their intended destination.
+
+Don't jam your shovel into the coal and load it down as much as
+possible. A few lumps of coal lying nicely on the body of the shovel
+can be handled better. The shovel should not be pushed into the coal by
+the knees, but should be worked only by the muscles of the arm.
+
+Throw the first shovelful of coal into the left hand front corner, the
+second shovelful in the right hand front corner, the third shovelful in
+the right hand back corner, the fourth shovelful in the left hand back
+corner, the fifth shovelful under the brick arch, close to the tube
+plate; the sixth and last shovelful under the door. To land this one
+properly the shovel must enter the fire-box and should be turned over
+sharp to prevent the coals falling in the center of the grate or the
+fire.
+
+Now comes the question when to fire.
+
+To fire properly, with the greatest effect in saving fuel, it should be
+done as soon as the steam begins to lift the valves, when by opening
+the fire-door and putting on a small quantity of coal the steam is
+checked sufficiently to prevent its being wasted by blowing off.
+
+Some engineers have an idea that unless the steam blows off furiously
+they have not done their duty by the engine.
+
+A big mistake this.
+
+When steam, water and fuel are being thrown away through the safety
+valves, it is a positive proof of the existence of either one or the
+other of the following evils:
+
+Either the engine is too small for its work or too great for its man,
+and both the engine and the man would do better on short runs; the
+former until it could be doctored, or the latter until he had learned
+to bottle his noise.
+
+The intervals between the rounds of firing, which should consist of
+six shovelfuls only each time the door is opened, is in every case
+regulated by the weight of the train or load, the state of the weather
+and the time allowed for running the trip, together with the quality of
+coal.
+
+The greatest possible mistake on an engine is putting on too much coal.
+The fire is choked, clinkers are formed, the temperature of the boiler
+is reduced, contraction and expansion sets in and leaks are formed--in
+a word everything goes wrong.
+
+The secret of good firing is to fire frequently, a little at a time.
+
+
+FEEDING.
+
+Having discussed fire, let us now consider the other element upon which
+the locomotive lives--water.
+
+The maintainance of steam in proper shape requires a knowledge of how
+and when to feed.
+
+The aim in feeding should be to regulate, as nearly as possible, the
+supply to the demand--just sufficient to keep the water at a proper
+level in the glass.
+
+This keeps up an even temperature in the boiler plates, tubes and
+fire-box, and this has much to do with the service of an engine. Many
+engineers always work their feed in the precise way to get the worst
+results.
+
+As soon as the boiler is full of steam and blowing off they turn on the
+pump full and keep it on until the steam is from 30 to 50 pounds below
+the maximum pressure before turning it off.
+
+This method is the very worst possible. What is wanted is a constant
+moderate supply of water, keeping the pressure as nearly even as
+possible. Nothing can beat this.
+
+When injectors are used one of them should be screwed down so that it
+will act moderately like a pump. This will save the water which is
+usually lost in turning injector on and off.
+
+
+ON THE FOOT-PLATE.
+
+When the train is under full headway the engineer should stand in
+his proper place on the foot-plate so as to be able to command the
+regulator and reversing valve at an instant's notice.
+
+Especially is this necessary at night, when the engineer's attention
+should always be on his engine, listening constantly to its beats
+to detect any irregularity which may arise from some defect in the
+machinery, frequently casting his eyes on the pressure gauge, and on
+the level of the water in the gauge glass.
+
+When the fireman puts on coal, the engineer should look round
+occasionally, to be sure that he is doing it right, placing the coal
+next to the walls of the fire-box, and not piling them in a heap in the
+middle.
+
+When the rails are slippery, great care is required to prevent the
+engine from slipping, by closing the regulator in time.
+
+When about to enter a tunnel, the sand valves should be opened, and
+the sand allowed to flow freely until the train emerges from the
+tunnel--sand is cheaper than steam.
+
+Never forget that lives and property depend upon the faithful
+performance of your work.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+HOW TO BUILD A MODEL LOCOMOTIVE.
+
+
+As a preparatory step toward becoming an engineer, it is highly
+desirable for the boy who looks forward to that honorable calling to
+familiarize himself with the different parts of the locomotive engine.
+This we have stated before.
+
+There is no better way to accomplish it than to build a model
+locomotive.
+
+At first glance this may seem to be among the things impossible, but it
+is not so, providing the boy has a mechanical turn, and any boy who has
+not better not think of becoming an engineer.
+
+We now propose to give simple and accurate directions for building a
+model locomotive, accompanying the same with a series of illustrations,
+which we trust will be sufficient for the purpose intended.
+
+Before beginning we have one word of caution to offer.
+
+Don't do your work in a hurry. Don't calculate on the length of time
+it is going to take you to do it. Make up your mind to understand each
+detail before you begin, and to work slowly and carefully.
+
+If you remember this you will probably be able to build your
+locomotive. If you forget it you certainly will fail.
+
+
+HOW TO BEGIN.
+
+First of all in building a model locomotive, as in every other class of
+engineering work, it is necessary to get the measurements correct in
+spacing out the different parts to be joined together; and do not think
+that because it is only a model you are making that any off-hand way
+will do, because you will find before the engine is half finished that
+great accuracy is necessary if you wish your model to work.
+
+A slight mistake in the measurements of a large engine will cause so
+much friction as to take half its power to overcome. The same mistake
+with your model will stop it entirely.
+
+In soldering be careful to get the metal thoroughly heated. You will
+then get a firm joint--otherwise not.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 1.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 3.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 4.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 6.]
+
+In giving these directions we assume that the boy who will undertake to
+follow them is accustomed to the use of tools to some extent. If not,
+he will have to learn as he advances by repeated experiments.
+
+Try your experiments on something else. In soldering, for instance,
+solder pieces of brass together until you learn to make a joint.
+
+Don't try your experiments on your model, or you will grow discouraged
+before you are half through.
+
+A word more about soldering.
+
+Do not touch the metal with the soldering-iron and then take it away.
+You might be able to solder in that way but the joint would not hold,
+but fall apart at the first pressure or slight blow.
+
+Soldering on the best work should be used very seldom, and all the
+fastenings should be either done by riveting, screwing or brazing, and
+it is hardly necessary to remark that no part of a boiler should be
+soldered which comes in contact with the flame of the lamp or furnace.
+
+Brazing had better not be attempted by any boy who has not been
+practically taught the art, unless it be on small joints.
+
+To braze the seams of a model boiler would require a forge fire, or a
+very powerful gas blast--too expensive for the amateur. Small things
+such as a broken slide valve, rod, etc., can be brazed by using a gas
+blowpipe.
+
+This will cost but little to make, and as it will be useful, we
+explain. See Fig. 1.
+
+To make a blowpipe such as is pictured in Fig. 1, first get a small
+piece of brass tube, A, of about half an inch diameter, and 5 inches
+long. Drill a hole at 2 inches from one end, and insert a piece of gas
+pipe, B, soldering it in place.
+
+Now take a glass tube a quarter of an inch in diameter and 7 inches
+long, hold one end in a gas flame, and when red-hot draw it out to a
+fine point, then file round and break off the tip, leaving a small hole.
+
+Now take a sound cork and squeeze it into the tube A as at C, drill a
+quarter inch hole through its center, insert the glass tube D, and the
+blow pipe is finished.
+
+To use it you connect the pipe B with a gas bracket by means of a
+rubber tube, and attach the glass tube D to a pair of bellows by means
+of another piece of rubber tubing. The bellows should have an air-bag
+attached. Otherwise you will have a jerky, uncertain flame.
+
+When you want to braze any article, bind the parts together with some
+very fine brass wire and cover with a little powdered borax and water;
+then lay the article on a piece of charcoal, and if it is necessary to
+preserve the temper of the steel you are about brazing, cut a potato
+in half and push each end of the steel rod into the halves, which will
+keep the temperature from getting too high.
+
+Then turn on the gas and start your blow pipe, at the same time
+working the bellows with your foot, and by either pushing in the glass
+tube D, or drawing it slightly out, you can regulate the shape of the
+flame as required.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 2.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 5.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 7.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 8.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 11.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 12.]
+
+Now bring the flame to bear on the joint you wish to braze, having
+first supplied plenty of borax. Soon you will find the brass wire
+melting and running into the joint like water. It must then be neatly
+filled up and the joint will be scarcely visible.
+
+Here are a few tools which will be useful to you in this work.
+
+A center punch, or steel spike for mashing metal for drilling, etc.,
+and a small riveting hammer. Three or four files of different degrees
+of fineness, a screw plate and taps, a small hand-drill with a set of
+drills to fit and a good firm vise.
+
+A lathe is of course desirable. Curves for bending metal you can easily
+make from pieces of bar-iron, holding them in the vise while working on
+them.
+
+When you have your tools ready get the material for your model.
+
+Several sheets of brass and copper, the castings and various sized
+screws and bolts are what will be required.
+
+All being thus prepared the time has arrived to take the
+
+
+FIRST STEP.
+
+The first step toward building a model locomotive is to be posted on
+the action of steam in the cylinder.
+
+Go to encyclopedia and read up on that point.
+
+If you have no encyclopedia go and look one up in some library. You
+can't build your engine until you understand this.
+
+Next draw an accurate plan of your model.
+
+Figure 2 is the idea. It is a side view of our locomotive. Let us
+describe.
+
+A. Boiler.
+
+B. Smoke-stack.
+
+C. Screwhead, to fill boiler with water.
+
+D. Steam chest with safety valve attached on top.
+
+E. Whistle.
+
+F. Steam tap to start the engine with.
+
+H. H. Leading and trailing wheels.
+
+I. Driving wheel.
+
+K. Cylinders.
+
+L. Frame.
+
+M. Buffers.
+
+N. Set thumbscrew to fasten on the tender.
+
+O. The lamp.
+
+P. Tap, used to ascertain the quantity of water in the boiler.
+
+R. S. Hand rail.
+
+To all locomotives there are three principal parts, the frame work, or
+carriage, the engine, or cylinders, and parts connected with them, and
+the boiler.
+
+Our model shall be a fifteen inch one.
+
+
+LAYING OUT MATERIALS
+
+is the next thing in order. First we want a sheet of brass for the bed
+plate, 1/16th of an inch thick, cut 4x14 inches, and be sure to cut the
+corners square. (See Figure 3.)
+
+Hammer this out flat, file it smooth and dress up, with emery cloth
+fastened upon a flat piece of wood.
+
+Next cut a square hole in it as at C, beginning half an inch from B,
+and making the opening 11 x 1-1/2 inches. Be careful to center this
+hole on the line A B, or your engine will be lopsided, and you must
+take the same care in setting the smoke stack, dome, etc.
+
+Now take Fig. 4. This represents one of the side frames. Cut these out
+now, thus:
+
+Drill holes at A B C for the axles to work in. Finish both sides the
+same way. Turn the bed plate upside down, fasten the frames on at a
+quarter of an inch from either side by small angle pieces (Fig. 5), or
+by soldering, which is easier done. Then solder a piece across each
+end, about half an inch deep, and the frame is ready for the wheels.
+
+These you can make if you have a lathe, but it would be better to buy
+your wheels ready made if you can, but if you can't do that, and have
+the lathe, turn your tires up to the form shown in Fig. 6.
+
+The small wheels should be about 2-1/2 inches in diameter, and the
+driving wheels, 4 inches. The rim, B, should project a little over
+1/16th of an inch, and the rest of the edge should be beveled off
+rightly, as at A.
+
+The spokes should then be filed up smooth, drilling out the center hole
+for the axle before removing it from the lathe.
+
+Great care must be taken to turn both the driving wheels to exactly
+the same diameter, or one wheel would travel further in a revolution
+than the other, and as they ought both to be fixed rigidly on the crank
+shaft, the engine would never travel in a straight line, but would go
+round and round in a circle.
+
+Get some steel wire for the axles and fasten them to the wheels by
+soldering or by cutting a slot with a fine file in the center of the
+wheel, as at A, Fig. 7. Then file a small portion of the ends of the
+axle flat and drive in a brass wedge made by a piece of wire which will
+hold them together firmly.
+
+The crank shaft, or axle, must be hammered up to shape, making it hot
+occasionally in the gas flame while working it.
+
+The cranks should be at right angles to each other, and the throw of
+the crank half the distance of the cylinder stroke.
+
+For instance, say the cylinder being a 1-1/2 inch stroke, the distance
+between A B (Fig. 8) will be three-quarters of an inch, you must then
+ease the size of the crank at A to prevent the piston knocking the
+cylinder ends.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 9.]
+
+The cylinders you had better buy ready made or have them made for you.
+Get a pair of oscillating cylinders of three-quarter inch bore and inch
+and a half stroke. These will drive your engines several miles an hour.
+
+Fig. 9 gives an underneath view of the frame work and the place to put
+the cylinders in. They must be supported by two lugs, A A, screwed to
+the bed plate B, which must have a piece cut out on either side to
+allow the driving wheels C, to work in, as at D; because, being larger
+than the others, they project beyond the top of the bed plate, as shown
+in Fig. 2.
+
+Next screw on by means of the hook F, the buffer beam, previously cut
+from a piece of mahogany, 5 inches long, half an inch thick and one
+inch deep, nicely squared and sand papered. Drill a hole at G, and pass
+the shank of the hook through the beam and piece of brass in front of
+the frame, screwing up tight with nut H.
+
+For buffers you may take two brass, flat-headed screws, and attach
+them to the beam half an inch from either end, allowing half an inch
+projection.
+
+Now polish everything smooth and bright. Next warm the model over the
+gas--don't let it get hot--and carefully lacquer it with a small brush
+taking care not to go over any part more than once. The spokes of the
+wheels must be painted, the buffer beams varnished and the cylinders
+painted, leaving the covers and flanges bright. Now put away your work
+to dry, covering carefully from dust.
+
+
+HOW TO MAKE THE BOILER.
+
+In making the boiler you can't be too careful. This is the part where
+the greatest chance for failure comes in.
+
+Buy a piece of copper tubing 11 inches long, 3 inches wide and half an
+inch in diameter.
+
+If you want to make it yourself bend your copper round a wooden roller
+and rivet or solder together--riveting is the best if you can get it
+tight. You must then turn two circles of brass about an eighth of an
+inch thick for the ends and polish all. Fig 10 gives you the idea.
+
+Now push the ends into either end of the tube about an eighth of
+an inch from the edge, as at A, Fig. 11, and solder in place. The
+projecting flange must be hammered down all around as at B, soldered
+and finished with a half round file. When filing solder use only an old
+worn file as a good one soon fills up.
+
+
+SMOKESTACK, TUBES, ETC.
+
+Now drill a hole at A (Fig. 10) for the smokestack, which should be
+three-quarters of an inch in diameter. Then cut a slot in the bottom of
+the boiler 6 inches long by 1-1/2 inches wide, commencing one-quarter
+of an inch from the forward end of the boiler.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 10.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 13.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 14.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 15.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 16.]
+
+Next take a sheet of copper and cut a piece about 6-1/4 inches long
+by 6 inches wide and bend it over a wooden roller to the shape shown
+in Fig. 12, keeping it 1-1/2 inches apart between A and B. Cut also
+two other pieces of copper to the shape of your bent sheet (Fig. 12),
+and make it long enough to reach to the dotted line. These form the
+two ends, and may be placed an eighth of an inch from the edges, as in
+Fig. 13, and soldered in place, and the projecting rims turned over and
+sweated with solder from the outside, in the same manner that you did
+the boiler ends in Fig. 11. Then drill a three-quarter inch hole at B
+(Fig. 13) for the bottom of the smokestack to go into, and cut a piece
+of three-quarter inch brass tubing of sufficient length to pass out at
+top of boiler about half an inch, as shown at A, Fig. 10. You can then
+hammer out a rim or flange on the bottom end of the smokestack and push
+it up through the hole in the copper box, soldering it in place from
+the top as at A, Fig. 14. Then drill two small holes at each end of the
+box, B C, Fig. 14. These should be a little more than an eighth of an
+inch in diameter, to allow an eighth of an inch tube to pass through.
+
+Now get two 12-inch lengths of hard drawn steam pipe, an eighth of an
+inch in diameter, and with your screw plate put a thread on each end,
+about half an inch in length. Then make eight nuts to fit the threads
+on the piping, filing them up into proper shape.
+
+Now take the piping and bend it very gently, to prevent it cracking,
+around a bar of iron or handle of some tool held in the vise, until
+it is in the form shown in Fig. 15. Do each one the same, then mix a
+little turpentine with white lead, and smear each end, where you have
+formed the screws, taking care not to get any into the tubes, which can
+be temporarily plugged up.
+
+Next put a nut at either end, as far as the thread will take it, then
+smear a little white lead around the holes drilled in the ends of the
+box, B C, Fig. 14.
+
+Push the tubes in from the inside, and screw up firmly with the
+remaining nuts, in the position shown at Fig. 16. The inside nuts can
+then be tightened up with a wrench, and if you do all this carefully,
+you will never be troubled with any leakage, no matter what pressure
+you may get in your boiler.
+
+These tubes are immensely strong, and owing to their small size, the
+water in them is raised quickly to a higher temperature than that
+contained in the rest of the boiler, causing a continual circulation to
+take place, and a constant supply of steam to be found.
+
+The box can now be placed in the boiler, through the slot cut in the
+bottom, taking care that the top of the box is not more than half way
+up the boiler, as at B, Fig. 10. This will leave a portion projecting
+below the lower edge of boiler like C. This part protects the flame
+of the lamp from being blown away by the draught caused by traveling
+along, and which would cause you to lose steam. Solder it firmly in
+position from the outside to prevent the flame from touching any
+soldered portion. Also solder neatly round A, Fig. 10.
+
+The smoke stack can be made from another piece of three-quarter inch
+brass; turn it up in your lathe bright and put a collar on it at A Fig.
+17, to allow it to push on to the piece of tube left projecting at A
+Fig. 10.
+
+The top of the smoke stack, B Fig. 17, will also require turning in the
+lathe and must be fitted on neatly.
+
+Get advice from some mechanic about the steam chest, which is a brass
+casting and will have to be turned up in the lathe, and after cutting a
+circular hole in the top of the boiler of about an inch in diameter it
+can be either screwed or soldered on, previously putting the steam pipe
+E in position by drilling a hole at F and after bending it as shown,
+pass it through at F and solder in place. The top of pipe E should be
+about a quarter of an inch from the top of inside of steam chest.
+
+Before soldering on the steam chest drill two holes as at G H Fig. 10,
+one for the small lug G to be screwed into, which holds one end of the
+lever of the safety valve, and that at H should be drilled conical with
+a rimer, and the valve H can be turned in the lathe and afterwards
+ground to fit the hole with a little emery and water, by means of a
+slot cut across the top and worked round with a screw driver.
+
+The spring case of the safety valve I, Figure 10, is easily made from
+a piece of one-eighth inch brass tubing, using some small, hard, brass
+wire to form the spring. When finished it should be hooked to the eye
+and screwed into the boiler at V.
+
+The manhole or screwhead, K, is used to refill the boiler when it has
+steamed low and will have to be turned up to shape, and the bed, L,
+which it screws into can be firmly soldered on the boiler, having first
+drilled a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the screw itself,
+which should be sufficiently large to allow an ordinary tin funnel to
+be used to refill by, and the screw ought to be long enough to hold a
+leather washer under the head to keep it steam-tight.
+
+The whistle, M, will require a hole drilled for it to be screwed into,
+and that, as also the steam-tap, N, and water-tap, O, can be bought
+cheap, ready to put on.
+
+The tap O should be screwed in at a slightly higher level than the top
+of box B, and when working the engine should steam issue from it when
+turned on instead of water, you ought to immediately blow off steam by
+safety valve H. Then unscrew K, and refill the boiler with water.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 17.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 18.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 19.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 21.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 22.]
+
+By this time the framework will be quite dry, no doubt, so you can,
+after cleaning and polishing the boiler, attach it to the frame by a
+screw or solder at the forward end, and the steam-pipe N can be screwed
+on to the projecting piece of tube left at F, while you also screw a
+short length of pipe into the steam box of engine through a hole in the
+bed plate. Then bend it up to the steam tap, and solder them carefully
+in position; this will hold the after end of the boiler firm.
+
+Go over every soldered joint to see if any small hole is left, and
+resolder where necessary, as a hole in the boiler not larger than a
+pin's point would prevent you from getting any pressure of steam in the
+boiler, as the water would all blow out.
+
+Now lacquer or paint your boiler, and while it is drying turn your
+attention to the lamp, which we picture in Fig. 18.
+
+
+THE LAMP.
+
+The lamp is simply an oblong tin box, about 5 inches long by 1-1/4
+inches wide and three-quarters of an inch deep.
+
+To make it cut a piece of tin 4-1/2 by 5 inches and bend it to shape.
+Then solder the two edges together and cut two ends to fit; push them
+in and solder in place.
+
+Now cut three pieces of brass quarter-inch tubing into three-quarter
+inch lengths; drilling holes in top of lamp, insert them, allowing a
+quarter of an inch to project, as at A, Fig. 17. Then solder them on
+four pieces of bent wire--C, C, C, C, Fig. 18--by which to hang the
+lamp by means of two wire pins run through them and small holes drilled
+in the sides of projecting piece C, Fig. 10.
+
+The screw filler B, Fig. 18, will have to be soldered in, also, and
+when complete the tubes A may be filled with cotton wick and the lamp
+about three-parts full of a methylated alcohol, which will give a
+clear, smokeless flame.
+
+Now you can start your locomotive by filling the boiler about three
+parts full of hot water, and then hooking the lamp underneath; you will
+soon get up a good pressure of steam.
+
+See that the taps are all turned off, and if there is no leakage from
+careless workmanship, you will find on turning the steam tap on, that
+the locomotive will run beautifully and will travel at great speed
+either on a smooth oil-cloth or a board floor.
+
+On rails it would run quicker still, but for this engine, if you make
+a small tender of the shape shown in Fig. 19, and fasten it at any
+angle by the set-screw on the foot-plate of the engine shown at N, Fig.
+2, the model will run in any sized circle you may wish without rails,
+according to the angle you fix the tender to the engine.
+
+Wooden cars you can make if you wish, but each one added will reduce
+the speed of the engine, of course.
+
+Tin is the best material to use for the tender, as no great strength is
+required--indeed it should be made as light as possible. The wheels
+and axles you must finish in the same manner as those on the engine,
+and it can be made into a tank to hold an extra supply of alcohol by
+soldering a piece of tin round the inside and covering it in with
+another piece cut to shape and fitted with a screw nut to fill by as
+shown in Fig. 18.
+
+Such is the method of constructing a model locomotive which will run
+without complicated machinery.
+
+The boy who has succeeded in following these directions will no doubt
+be ambitious to try his hand on a more complete model on a larger
+scale, something like Fig. 20 for instance, which is a side view of a
+large model locomotive in a finished state.
+
+
+HOW TO BUILD A LARGE MODEL LOCOMOTIVE.
+
+In building a large model the first thing to be done is to decide
+how large you want it. Sketch your model carefully, or, if not able
+to draw plans, get some one who is to help you. Make your plan the
+exact size of the model you intend to build, then you can take all the
+measurements from it and save yourself a lot of trouble and time.
+
+Remember, however, that the larger you make the engine the more
+expensive the castings and materials will be.
+
+Should you persevere, however, and by good fortune succeed, you will
+have a model locomotive that would cost you two or three hundred
+dollars to buy ready made. If you have a lathe and can turn the wooden
+models for the castings yourself, use sheet iron for the frame-work,
+etc., where possible; the total expense will not be so very great.
+
+Begin your work in the same way you did on the other model. If you
+want a bigger engine than the one shown in Fig. 20, there would be no
+trouble in increasing the measurements, which we are about to give,
+proportionately, remembering that Fig. 20 is drawn to an eighth-inch
+scale.
+
+
+DIMENSIONS.
+
+Make your dimensions as follows: Length over all, 3 ft. 2 in. Length
+of bed-plate, 3.5 in. Width of bed-plate, 9 in. Diameter of driving
+wheels, 8-1/4 in. Diameter of leading wheels, 5-1/4 in. Gauge--that is
+width of track on which model can run--6-1/2 in. Cylinders, 1-3/4 in.
+bore by 2-1/2 in. stroke. Length of boiler, including smoke box, 28 in.
+Diameter of boiler, 5 in.
+
+Cylinders of the above dimensions will drive the engine at a high rate
+of speed, with from 30 to 50 lbs. of steam.
+
+
+DESCRIPTION OF LARGE MODEL LOCOMOTIVES.
+
+In Fig. 20, the different parts of the engine are lettered, and it
+will be well for the boy who desires to make a locomotive like it to
+compare the following description with the cut, before he does anything
+else.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 20.]
+
+A is the smoke stack and B the steam blast used to increase the
+intensity of the fire worked by rod C running through the hollow
+hand-rail D and ending in handle F. G is the steam-dome, which with the
+safety valve is the same pattern previously used. H is the extra safety
+valve, worked from the foot-plate. I is the steam whistle, K wind
+guard, L starting lever, M smoke-box with door, N O spring buffers;
+P is the line-clearer or wheel guard. Q are the leading wheels, R R
+the driving wheels, S is one of the cylinders with piston rods and
+guides bolted to frame and showing double connecting rod at T T. U U
+are the springs which support the weight of the boiler, etc., on the
+axle bearings. The spring or rear wheel does not show, being inside the
+safety guard and hand-rail V. W is the back pressure valve, through
+which the water is thrown by the force-pump into the boiler, and X is
+the blow-off tap to clear the engine from all water after having used
+it. Y shows the side of the ash-pan.
+
+
+HOW TO DO THE WORK ON THE LARGE MODEL LOCOMOTIVE.
+
+First of all comes the frame work. It wants to be of eighth inch sheet
+iron squared up perfectly true and flat and cut as is shown in Fig. 21,
+beginning 4-1/2 inches from A, and leaving 6 inches at B, and cutting
+it 6 inches wide there by 8 inches long, and continuing it 4 inches
+wide for the rest of the distance. Be careful to keep it quite central
+on the line A B, and leave two connecting strips 1 inch wide as at C C.
+
+The side frames come next. These must be much stronger and quite
+different from those used in the previous model. They may be cut from
+the same eighth inch iron to the shape shown in Fig. 22.
+
+The center of slot B is 17 inches from one end, the center of A 10
+inches from B, and the center of C 13 inches from B.
+
+In measuring, always start from a given center if you want to be
+accurate. That is, from B to A and from B to C; not from B to A and
+from C to B.
+
+The slots are each 1-1/4 inches wide by 2 inches deep, leaving 1 inch
+of iron at the top, as shown. The four large boles shown in Fig. 23 are
+only ornamental, and can be now cut out. They also serve to lighten the
+frame.
+
+The frames, after being smoothed up can be fastened to the bed plate in
+the manner described before, by angle-irons, or knees, riveted on.
+
+Two end pieces must also be prepared. Let them be 1 inch deep, with the
+ends hammered square, at right angles, and then riveted to the bed
+plate and side frames, as shown in Fig. 20. Then drill three holes in
+them, about an inch and a half from either end, and one in the center,
+by which to bolt on the buffer beams by means of a couple of screws put
+in at the back. The buffer beams should be mahogany, 1 inch wide by 2
+deep by 10 long, squared nicely and sandpapered. A hook can then be
+made--Fig. 23--and a hole being drilled in the center of the beam, you
+can pass the hook stem through and into the central hole of framework,
+and screw up tight with nut at back, which will hold all firmly in
+place. The buffers for this model must be properly made, with springs
+to take the pressure in case you should run into anything.
+
+Fig. 24 shows this buffer. You will have to get it cast. Turn out in
+your lathe a wooden mold and get four castings in brass made from it. A
+Fig. 24 is cast with a square base plate 2 inches square, as in front
+view B, and is secured to the buffer beam by four flat-headed screws.
+The piece C must be turned true and just the size to slide in and out
+of A easily. Each part must be finished up in the lathe. A should be an
+inch and a half long. Drill a hole in the buffer beam to allow the head
+of the pin to work freely, and another hole in base plate of buffer the
+size of the pin, whose head prevents the spring from forcing C entirely
+away from A.
+
+The spring should be made of thick steel wire; the buffers can then be
+screwed in as just mentioned. The wheel-guard or line-clearer P (Fig.
+20) can next be cut out to shape and bolted on to frame, and should
+just clear the line by a quarter of an inch.
+
+We will now proceed to the axle bearings and springs, U, Fig. 20.
+
+Make a wooden model like Fig. 25, and get 6 castings in brass made from
+it. They must then be filed up square and smooth and fitted into the
+slots cut at A, B, C, Fig 22, and either screwed or riveted on by the
+side holes. Before finally fixing them prepare 6 brass bearings, B, Fig
+25, which must fit exactly and slide easily in the inner surface of A,
+then drilling a hole through each five-eighths of an inch in diameter.
+These take the axles, which in this model are all straight, and
+three-quarters of an inch in diameter, shouldered off to five-eighths
+for the bearings.
+
+Next for the springs. Take 4 pieces of either sheet iron or brass for
+the supports, 1-1/2 inches long by 1/4 inch wide. Drill a hole in
+either end as shown at C, Fig. 26. A should be three-eighths of an inch
+wide, drilled through, a pin put in and all riveted together loosely.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 23.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 24.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 25.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 26.]
+
+Now take a clock spring and cut it into shape, as at D, Fig. 26. The
+top piece requires to be made hot with your blow-pipe, then the ends
+turned over to hold the pin B. Each piece of spring must be a little
+shorter than the one above it, and the ends neatly tapered, all to be
+inclosed in the brass band F, which has a small hole drilled at F to
+hold the end of the pin by which the pressure is directed on to the
+axle boxes, as shown in Fig. 20. A hole is also to be drilled in the
+bed plate over the center of each axle box to allow the pin to pass
+through, and also a smaller one an inch and a half on each side for the
+support A, Fig. 26, to screw into. Now all can be fitted into position.
+
+Next come the cylinders. These are to be an inch thick and
+three-quarters bore by two and a half inch stroke. They should be of
+the fixed slide-valve pattern, with double eccentrics fitted on the
+middle axle shaft, and reversing lever brought to quadrant on foot
+plate. They had better be bought ready made.
+
+Fig. 27 shows their working. A A are the eccentrics, B the slide-valve
+rod with guide G attached. C C is the bed plate and D the balance
+weight, F the rod leading to quadrant and lever on foot plate. The
+cranks are put on outside the wheels and fastened by keys as in Fig.
+20. The connecting rod T should be cut to the form shown in Fig. 28,
+and the ends squared out and a brass band fitted in with a hole drilled
+from top A to oil by and a set screw B to adjust the bearings perfectly.
+
+If you wish to fit a force pump it should be placed centrally between
+the cylinders and be worked by an eccentric on the main shaft, but a
+pump on a model locomotive is next to useless unless it is also made to
+work by hand.
+
+In Fig. 29, we have one which can be worked either way. A is the pump;
+B the eccentric on main-shaft to work it by steam power. To work by
+hand you have only to push up hook connection C, which disconnects it
+from the eccentric; and then by working the handle D, which is screwed
+into the bottom of the plunger C, the water is forced into the boiler.
+An extra stuffing-box at F will be required. G is the exhaust water
+pipe bent up to the back-pressure valve on boiler, and H the supply
+pipe carried on to rear of engine.
+
+Two small blow-off cocks will be necessary on each cylinder to get rid
+of the condensed steam when starting. They can be connected with a
+tye-rod, and both worked from the foot-plate with a single handle. Now
+paint to suit your taste and put away to dry.
+
+Next comes the boiler, which will need extreme care. For this you will
+require sheet copper an eighth of an inch thick.
+
+First cut a piece 19 inches long by 16 wide and bend it round, forming
+a cylinder 5 inches in diameter. The cap must be closely riveted and
+the two ends hammered out into a flange outward, leaving the body of
+the boiler 17 inches long, as in Fig. 30. B is the shape of the piece
+to be next riveted on at after end. Now take another sheet 9 inches
+wide and hammer a half inch flange round it, so as to fit over the
+dotted line at A. Rivet them firmly together and also another piece in
+after end. It will then have the appearance of Fig. 31, and should be
+4-1/2 inches deep from A to B, and forming a copper box 6 inches wide
+from B to C and 8 inches from C to D. Then rivet together another box
+to form the inner casing 4-1/2 inches wide by 6-1/2 inches long and 9
+inches deep, the bottom to be hammered outward to the dimensions of B
+C C D, as shown in section Fig. 32 at A A. A hole is next to be cut
+out in the center of rear plate and also the rear part of inner casing
+which comes opposite to it, and 1-3/4 inches by 2-1/2 forming the
+furnace door.
+
+A casting of that shape and 3/4 of an inch thick, which is the distance
+between the inner and outer casing B C, must be procured and drilled
+with holes every 3/8 of an inch and firmly riveted in position, as
+shown in Fig. 32 at D. Two pins should project on either side of the
+inner surface to support the fire-bars and ash pan, and the bars should
+be made of cast iron and small enough to get out easily by tilting up
+one side; they should run lengthwise of the engine.
+
+For the boiler tubes some hard drawn brass tubing three-quarters of
+an inch in diameter will be required. Cut the pieces slightly over
+17 inches long, then drill 10 holes in the inner plate as at E, Fig.
+32, and in the position and arrangement shown in Fig. 33. These tubes
+should have a wire ring brazed on about a quarter of an inch from
+either end, and then being placed in their respective holes in the tube
+plate, the projecting portion is to be headed back with a flange, or
+you can fit them in as already shown in Fig. 16 by each being double
+screwed and nutted. These tubes allow the smoke and flame to pass
+through from the furnace to the smoke box, M, Fig. 20, and so away up
+the smoke stack, and by the large surface they expose to the fire, help
+to raise steam very quickly. In some engines as many as 300 tubes are
+fitted.
+
+The steam supply pipe and regulating lever handle should now be made
+and placed in position, and Fig. 34 shows the shape to make it. A B are
+the front and rear plates of the boiler, C is the supply pipe bent with
+a screw end downward, after passing plate A, and then upward into the
+steam dome, where it should be securely fastened into a cross-piece. D
+is the tap or valve which can be turned on or off from the foot-plate
+by means of the long rod, F, ending in the lever handle, G.
+
+The rod must be fitted with a stuffing-box, the same as those used on
+the cylinders, and packed with cotton wick to prevent loss of steam by
+leakage. When all this is complete, the forward end of the boiler can
+be furnished with a tube-plate riveted on and the tubes flanged over.
+
+Now the boiler must go to a practical brazier, and be properly brazed.
+Cut the hole for the steam dome, and let him braze it on at the same
+time. If the job is practically done, your boiler can be heated red-hot
+without fear.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 27.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 28.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 29.]
+
+Meanwhile buy your pressure gauge--it wants to be one and a half inches
+in diameter--and let the brazier test your boiler to 100 pounds steam
+to the square inch capacity.
+
+Should it burst you will have to make another. If not you need
+thereafter have no fears.
+
+Now make the smoke box, which should be three inches deep and of the
+shape and dimensions shown in Fig. 35. This and the smoke-stack can be
+made of iron, hammered up to shape and finished with a brass ring. The
+smoke-box can be screwed on the forward flange or boiler.
+
+The door is drawn open to show the amount of bulge it should be
+hammered to. In the center a hole should be drilled through which to
+pass the screw used to close it, which is attached to the loose bar, A.
+The handle, B, is then screwed up tight.
+
+The door is circular and must be large enough to overlap the opening
+about half an inch and have a couple of bright iron or brass eyes, C,
+riveted on to form the hinge.
+
+Next comes the back-pressure valve, Fig 36. A is a front view with
+plate by which it is bolted to the boiler, as at W, Fig. 20.
+
+It is very simple to make, and consists of the casting A with top and
+bottom covers and the ball-valve B, which ought to be ground with a
+little emery and oil to fit perfectly. It acts in this manner.
+
+The water being forced up C from the pump, raises B and passes into the
+boiler. On the up stroke of pump, the pressure is removed from under
+B and the pressure of steam in the boiler causes it to fall back and
+close the opening entirely, preventing any water from passing away from
+the boiler. A small flange can be put on each outer side of the boiler
+near the furnace to support it on bed-plate level with smoke box.
+
+The boiler should now be covered with flannel, cut to shape and wrapped
+round the body part and a casing of sheet tin put over it and secured
+by brass bands and small nuts underneath--as shown in Fig. 20.
+
+The steam supply pipe can now be connected with the cylinders and
+it should be made forked as in Fig. 37. A leads from steam pipe and
+branches off to each cylinder, where it must be screwed up with white
+lead.
+
+The exhaust pipes B B should be of larger tubing and bent round up the
+sides of the smoke box so as to be out of the way when you have to
+clean the tubes. A small brass pipe, C, must also be passed through the
+chimney, bent upwards and fitted with a tap which should take the steam
+from the top of the boiler and be used as shown at D F Fig. 20. This
+helps to raise steam very quickly.
+
+Fig. 38 is a rear view of the foot plate and shows the necessary
+fittings which you must either make or buy to complete the model.
+
+The cocks you might make but the water gauge you must buy. A is the
+furnace door, B two gauge taps, C starting-lever handle, D spring
+balance safety valve, F wind-guard with two look-out holes, G steam
+whistle handle, H pressure gauge, N the quadrant and lever for
+reversing the engine, O the rear buffer beam with buffers, P the wheels
+showing axle, R R the springs for same and V the safety-guard rail on
+either side.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 30.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 31.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 32.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 33.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 34.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 35.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 37.]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 36.]
+
+When these fittings are all complete holes must be drilled in rear
+plate for each piece; they must be firmly screwed in place with white
+lead. The glass tube of the water gauge, the stuffing-box, and the
+gland of the starting lever should be closely packed with tallow and
+cotton wick.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 38.]
+
+Next paint the entire model over again and let it dry. We give no
+directions as to colors; use your own taste. After the paint is
+thoroughly dry varnish with the best clear, hard varnish and let it dry
+again.
+
+While it is drying you can be making the rails.
+
+Get some square bar iron, cut it into six-foot lengths, if you wish the
+rails to be portable, and drill a hole in each end half an inch deep.
+
+The rails can be joined together at each end by means of a piece of
+wire and kept at a proper distance apart by being fastened to pieces
+of wood placed like sleepers, fastened by screws passing through holes
+drilled in the rails every six inches. These sections can be laid
+end to end, and your line be made as long as you wish. If you want a
+circular line, each section must be bent to a portion of a circle; one
+about 30 feet in diameter is suitable for this model.
+
+When finished place your locomotive on the track and get up steam. Fill
+the boiler with water by means of a funnel until you see it rise up
+three parts of the way in the glass water-gauge. Then see that all taps
+are turned off and start the fire. Charcoal is the best fuel, as it
+gives a clear, hot fire without much smoke once you start it right.
+
+Try the safety-valve occasionally to see how your steam is getting on,
+and when it begins to form turn on the blast-tap, which will soon draw
+up the fire, and you will presently see the pressure rise and show
+itself in the pressure-gauge.
+
+When the gauge shows 30 lbs. of steam you might start the model by
+turning on the cocks on cylinders until no more condensed steam issues
+from them.
+
+Then shut them off and turn on steam full power and watch the engine
+travel, gradually increasing its speed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+
+Let us now bear the conclusion of the whole matter, which takes us
+straight back to where we started, and we again repeat if you want to
+become an engineer make up your mind that you will be a good one or
+none at all.
+
+We have examined the locomotive inside and out, underneath and on top,
+even peering down the smoke-stack, crawling into the fire-box, and
+learning the true science of shoveling coal.
+
+What then remains to be told?
+
+Nothing that can be remembered long enough to be of any practical use.
+
+There are matters--dozens of them--connected with locomotive
+engineering which we have not even alluded to, but they are for the
+most part such as must be learned by actual every day experience to be
+of any use.
+
+We might, perhaps, under three heads speak a few closing words. First
+let us take up
+
+
+SIGNALS,
+
+and post ourselves a bit on that most important subject.
+
+The greater part of an engineer's time while on his engine must be
+spent in the lookout for signals.
+
+Upon this depends not only the safety of every soul on the train but
+his own as well.
+
+_Never jump at conclusions in the matter of signals._
+
+Never assume that because a "distant" signal and all the other signals
+are off the line is clear.
+
+Every engineer should, as far as possible, not only see that each
+signal is off, but he should also cast his eye over the road in front
+of him to see whether it _should_ be off. At night caution in the
+matter of signals is even more necessary than in daylight. Then the
+only safety lies in keeping a constant lookout.
+
+You must know your road. It is not enough to know where the up grades
+lie and where the downs. You must know just how steep the grades are
+and their length.
+
+Often signals are badly placed and cannot be seen until the engine is
+close upon them.
+
+With this you have nothing to do. Engineers do not place signals.
+Doubtless if they did they would alter the position of many of them.
+All you have to do is to heed the signals, no matter how well or how
+badly they are placed.
+
+To enter into a detailed description of signals until some universal
+system of signaling is adopted, would be but a waste of time.
+
+You will have to learn all these things during your apprenticeship;
+they are matters upon which books can give you little help.
+
+Presence of mind you must always have if you expect to become a good
+engineer, and courage, too--plenty of it. This brings us to our second
+head, which we will write
+
+
+"BROKE DOWN."
+
+What to do when the engine has broken down?
+
+There comes the tug of war, the time when it will be definitely decided
+whether the engineer is good, bad or indifferent.
+
+Hundreds of lives may depend upon prompt action, thousands of dollars'
+worth of property are in the engineer's hands, either to waste or save
+when the moment of the break down comes.
+
+In Mr. S. A. Alexander's excellent treatise entitled "Broke Down"
+is placed in red letters over every page, "Protect Yourself from
+Approaching Trains."
+
+When a break-down occurs, this is the first thought which should enter
+the engineer's mind, and the first act should be to carry it out.
+
+There are many causes of a break-down, too many to enumerate. In
+the roundhouse is the place to study break-downs, for here, daily,
+every variety is open to inspection--broken crank-shafts, broken
+eccentric-rods, eccentric-straps and sheaves, broken motion and broken
+springs.
+
+Of course an engine may be broken, and yet able to run its train
+through. This is an important consideration. Some engineers hardly know
+when they are beaten.
+
+It is a matter of record that a certain engineer, known as "Hell-fire
+Jack," ran his train over a bridge after one side had been washed
+away by a raging flood. Thousands of such daring deeds have been
+accomplished by engineers, but "Cautious Jacks" will be better
+appreciated by the company than "Hell-fire Jacks" every time.
+
+Real heroism lies in good judgment and a cool head. Suppose that
+the right hand back gear eccentric-rod breaks. "Can I get along in
+forward gear, after having disconnected the rod and the strap?" is
+the question. The answer is yes, and it should be prompt, as all such
+answers should be when the engine breaks down.
+
+It is such readiness as this that makes break-downs but a matter of a
+few moments.
+
+It is also highly necessary that the engineer should ask himself "What
+tools have I upon the engine? What can I do with them? Can I find them
+in the dark? If I run off the track in what condition is my screw jack?
+Will it work properly? Have I a ratchet or bar to work it with?"
+
+These are things which should be continually kept in mind.
+
+
+AIR BRAKES.
+
+The air-brake has changed engine driving materially in the last few
+years, and a word or two concerning it should be said.
+
+The air-brake consists briefly of an air cylinder placed beneath each
+car, which can be operated by the engineer from the foot plate, the
+pressure of the air controlling the action of the brakes.
+
+There are two valves to an air-brake, one for ordinary stops and the
+other for sudden stops in case of emergency.
+
+In the first only partial pressure of the confined air is used, in the
+latter the full pressure is employed and the brakes brought against the
+wheels with all force at once.
+
+One of the most important duties of an engineer is to be well assured
+that the air-brakes are in proper working order.
+
+After the call for hand brakes has been given, the air brakes must not
+be applied until the hand brakes are released. Air and hand brakes
+should never be used at the same time on a car.
+
+When cars having different air pressures are coupled together the
+brakes will work first on that having the highest pressure.
+
+Special instruction is needed to fully comprehend the working of air
+brakes.
+
+Here is a speed table which may be useful. We have taken the liberty
+of extracting it from Alexander's "Ready-reference for Locomotive
+Engineers," an excellent hand-book with which all candidates for the
+foot-plate should provide themselves. Published by the author, S. A.
+Alexander, York, Pa.
+
+
+TIME AND SPEED TABLES.
+
+  Key: M = Minutes.
+       S = Seconds.
+       T = 10th of a Second.
+
+                          M S  T
+  10 miles per hour is    6.00   to 1 mile
+  11 "      "   "   "     5.27   "  1  "
+  12 "      "   "   "     5.90   "  1  "
+  13 "      "   "   "     4.37   "  1  "
+  14 "      "   "   "     4.17   "  1  "
+  15 "      "   "   "     4.00   "  1  "
+  16 "      "   "   "     3.45   "  1  "
+  17 "      "   "   "     3.32   "  1  "
+  18 "      "   "   "     3.20   "  1  "
+  19 "      "   "   "     3.09.5 "  1  "
+  20 "      "   "   "     3.00   "  1  "
+  21 "      "   "   "     2.51.5 "  1  "
+  22 "      "   "   "     2.43.5 "  1  "
+  23 "      "   "   "     2.36.5 "  1  "
+  24 "      "   "   "     2.30   "  1  "
+  25 "      "   "   "     2.24   "  1  "
+  26 "      "   "   "     2.18.6 "  1  "
+  27 "      "   "   "     2.13.3 "  1  "
+  28 "      "   "   "     2.08.5 "  1  "
+  29 "      "   "   "     2.04   "  1  "
+  30 "      "   "   "     2.00   "  1  "
+  31 "      "   "   "     1.56   "  1  "
+  32 "      "   "   "     1.52.5 "  1  "
+  33 "      "   "   "     1.49   "  1  "
+  34 "      "   "   "     1.45.6 "  1  "
+  35 "      "   "   "     1.42.6 "  1  "
+  36 "      "   "   "     1.40   "  1  "
+  37 "      "   "   "     1.37.3 "  1  "
+  38 "      "   "   "     1.34.7 "  1  "
+  39 "      "   "   "     1.32.3 "  1  "
+  40 "      "   "   "     1.30.0 "  1  "
+  41 "      "   "   "     1.27.7 "  1  "
+  42 "      "   "   "     1.25.7 "  1  "
+  43 "      "   "   "     1.23.5 "  1  "
+  44 "      "   "   "     1.21.7 "  1  "
+  45 "      "   "   "     1.20.0 "  1  "
+  46 "      "   "   "     1.18.2 "  1  "
+  47 "      "   "   "     1.16.6 "  1  "
+  48 "      "   "   "     1.15.0 "  1  "
+  49 "      "   "   "     1.13.5 "  1  "
+  50 "      "   "   "     1.12.0 "  1  "
+  51 "      "   "   "     1.10.6 "  1  "
+  52 "      "   "   "     1.09.4 "  1  "
+  53 "      "   "   "     1.07.9 "  1  "
+  54 "      "   "   "     1.06.6 "  1  "
+  55 "      "   "   "     1.05.4 "  1  "
+  56 "      "   "   "     1.04.3 "  1  "
+  57 "      "   "   "     1.03.2 "  1  "
+  58 "      "   "   "     1.02.2 "  1  "
+  60 "      "   "   "     1.00.0 "  1  "
+  65 "      "   "   "     0.55.3 "  1  "
+  70 "      "   "   "     0.51.4 "  1  "
+  75 "      "   "   "     0.48.0 "  1  "
+  80 "      "   "   "     0.45.0 "  1  "
+  85 "      "   "   "     0.42.3 "  1  "
+  90 "      "   "   "     0.40.0 "  1  "
+  95 "      "   "   "     0.37.9 "  1  "
+  100"      "   "   "     0.36.0 "  1  "
+
+The boy who aims to become an engineer should not waste his school
+hours in idle dreaming or in too much sport.
+
+Improve every moment you can spare from other duties or needed exercise
+in studying arithmetic, geometry, algebra and mechanical engineering. A
+little knowledge as a draughtsman will also be a great help.
+
+Above all, get some larger manual on locomotive engineering and read
+and re-read it until you know its contents by heart.
+
+Remember that there is no limit to knowledge in any direction.
+
+The time can never come to any engineer when he can truthfully say to
+himself, "I know it all," and to his life-long study write
+
+[Illustration: THE END.]
+
+
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+  78 HOW TO DO THE BLACK ART.
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+
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+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+The Table of Contents was added by the transcriber.
+
+Some inconsistent punctuation has been normalized throughout the book.
+
+Some inconsistent hyphenation (e.g. smokestack vs. smoke-stack) has
+been retained.
+
+Some illustrations in this book appear to have been lifted from
+Locomotive Engine Driving: A Practical Manual for Engineers in Charge
+of Locomotive Engines by Michael Reynolds (London: Crosby Lockwood,
+1888).
+
+Fractions have been normalized to the form X-Y/Z.
+
+Page 5, changed "locomotiive" to "locomotive."
+
+Page 7, changed "Engilsh" to "English."
+
+Page 8, changed "clumsey" to "clumsy" and "prise" to "prize."
+
+Page 16, changed "guage" to "gauge."
+
+Page 17, changed "will came" to "will come."
+
+Page 19, changed "where on can" to "where one can."
+
+Page 21, changed "gain" to "gains."
+
+Page 22, changed "reponsibility" to "responsibility."
+
+Page 24, changed "read then" to "read them."
+
+Page 27, changed "thinest" to "thinnest."
+
+Page 29, changed "guage" to "gauge" (twice) and "at at" to "at."
+
+Page 34, changed "undestand" to "understand."
+
+Page 51, changed "shown it Fig. 35" to "shown in Fig. 35" and "llittle"
+to "little."
+
+Page 56, changed "definately" to "definitely."
+
+Page 57, changed "air-brakes consists" to "air-brake consists."
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER***
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