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diff --git a/old/44604-8.txt b/old/44604-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1bb97b7 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/44604-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3072 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, How to Become an Engineer, by Frank W. Doughty + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: How to Become an Engineer + + +Author: Frank W. Doughty + + + +Release Date: January 6, 2014 [eBook #44604] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER*** + + +E-text prepared by Demian Katz and the Online Distributed Proofreading +Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by +the Digital Library of the Falvey Memorial Library, Villanova University +(http://digital.library.villanova.edu) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 44604-h.htm or 44604-h.zip: + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/44604/44604-h/44604-h.htm) + or + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/44604/44604-h.zip) + + + Images of the original pages are available through the + Digital Library of the Falvey Memorial Library, + Villanova University. See + http://digital.library.villanova.edu/Item/vudl:267659 + + +Transcriber's note: + + Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). + + Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=). + + + + + +HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER. + +Containing Full Instructions How to Proceed in + Order to Become a Locomotive Engineer; + Also Directions for Building a Model + Locomotive; together with a Full + Description of Everything an + Engineer Should Know. + +Profusely Illustrated. + +BY AN OLD ENGINEER ON THE NEW YORK CENTRAL +RAILROAD. + + + + + + + +New York: +Frank Tousey, Publisher +29 West 26th Street. + +Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1898, by +Frank Tousey, +in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D.C. + + + + +CONTENTS + + CHAPTER I. HISTORICAL. + CHAPTER II. DESCRIPTION OF THE LOCOMOTIVE. + CHAPTER III. HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER. + CHAPTER IV. DUTIES OF AN ENGINEER. + CHAPTER V. HOW TO RUN A TRAIN. + CHAPTER VI. HOW TO BUILD A MODEL LOCOMOTIVE. + CHAPTER VII. CONCLUSION. + + + + +How to Become an Engineer. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +HISTORICAL. + + +To begin a subject properly you must begin at the beginning. + +Boys who don't like history need not read this chapter, for in it we +tell how the steam engine began, and if it never had begun, you know, +there would never have been any engineers, nor any necessity for +writing this book. + +For two or three generations we have had the story of James Watt told +us; how when a boy and watching his mother's tea-kettle one day he saw +the steam lift the lid, and that suggested the idea that if a little +steam could lift the lid of a kettle, a great deal would lift still +heavier weights and revolutionize the world. + +Now they tell us that Watt was not the first one to have this idea by +several, that it was first suggested by the Marquis of Worcester, in +his book called the "Century of Inventions," as "a way to drive up +water by fire," A. D. 1663. + +This was about a hundred years before Watt came on deck, but the +marquis never put his idea into practice, and Watt did, so to the +latter the credit belongs. + +Here are a few dates: + +Watt's invention of the separate condenser, 1765; Watt's first patent, +1769; Watt's first working engine introduced into a manufactory, 1775; +first steam engine erected in Ireland, 1791; first steamboat run on the +Hudson, 1797; first steamboat abroad, 1801. + +First regular steamboat ever run was from Albany to New York. The name +of the boat was the North River, her builder was Robert Fulton, and she +made the passage in 33 hours. + +The first railroad was built in England, in 1811. + +The first ocean steamer was the Savannah, an American craft of 350 +tons, which sailed from New York for Liverpool, July 15, 1819, making +the voyage in 26 days. + +Such were the early beginnings of steam. + +There are three principal kinds of engineers, locomotive, steamboat and +stationary. + +In this little book we propose to deal mainly with the duties of a +locomotive engineer. + +If one is a good locomotive engineer he can easily learn to manage +the engine of a steamboat; and if he is skilled in either of these +particulars he will have no difficulty with the biggest stationary +engine ever built. + +[Illustration: THE FIRST LOCOMOTIVE.] + +The work of the different engineers differs only in detail, not in kind. + +Let us now glance at the history of the steam horse, which has done +more than any other one thing to revolutionize the world. + +Be very sure that the locomotive, with its pistons, its spinning +drive wheels, its polished steel and shining brass, did not come into +existence all at once. + +By no means. Like everything else in the way of mechanical invention +that attains greatness, the locomotive had an insignificant beginning +to reach which we shall be obliged to get back somewhere about the +middle of the last century, for then it was that the desire for faster +traveling than horses can furnish seems to have had its birth. + +The first attempt at a railway seems to have been at Colebrook Dale, +England, a spot celebrated for having the first iron bridge in the +world--where a small iron road was constructed in connection with some +mines; a horse furnished the motive power here. + +The first railroad then was without a locomotive, and, strangely enough +the first locomotive was without a railroad on which to run. + +The first locomotive made its appearance in France. It was simply a +huge tea kettle on wheels, and was built by Joseph Cugnot at Paris in +the year 1769. + +It is the custom of English writers to ignore Cugnot's invention, and +claim for themselves the origin of the locomotive; but that is only a +pleasant way the English usually have. + +Cugnot's locomotive actually existed though, and was undoubtedly the +first. It was operated by means of two bronze cylinders, into which the +steam passed through a tube from the boiler--escaping through another +tube. + +The boiler was fastened on the front of the car, which moved on three +wheels--the steam acted only on the foremost wheel. + +The speed of Cugnot's locomotive was about three miles an hour. On the +first trial it ran into a building and was broken to pieces. + +In 1784 the famous Watt patented a steam locomotive engine in England, +which, however, never was put to use. + +In 1802, Trevethick and Vivian patented a locomotive, which, in 1804, +traveled at the rate of five miles an hour, drawing behind it a load of +ten tons of coal. + +Several other "traveling engines," as they were then styled, were +invented by other mechanical engineers with only moderate success, it +being reserved for Stephenson, in 1811, to build the first locomotive +that should prove of practical use. + +About this time a man named Thomas Gray, of Nottingham, England, +brought upon himself the contempt and ridicule of the whole English +nation by pushing forward the idea of the locomotive in connection with +coal mines. + +[Illustration: OLD NO. 1.] + +"It is all very well to spend money on these railway schemes," said +a member of parliament about that time referring to Gray's projects, +"it will do some good to the poor, but I will eat all the coals your +railways will ever carry." + +127,000,000 tons were carried recently in one year, on English +railroads alone. What a tough time this parliamentary slow coach would +have had to swallow all that! + +The first practical locomotive in the world--Stephenson's invention, +was Old No. 1, which pulled the first regular train on the Stockton and +Darlington R. R. on Tuesday, September 27, 1825. + +Old No. 1 cost $2,500 to build. It was a very clumsy affair; nothing +better, in fact, than a big boiler on four wheels, which were moved by +great levers worked by pistons from the top of the machine. + +[Illustration: THE ROCKET.] + +Old No. 1 has been preserved, and was, in the year 1859, placed upon a +pedestal in that English town of Darlington as a public memorial of the +beginning of the railway. + +No sooner had the Stockton and Darlington R. R. proved itself a success +than all England was in arms against it. Here are some of the absurd +objections urged against railroads, taken from the newspapers of the +day. + +Steam horses were "contrary to nature;" they were "damaging to good +morals and religion;" the smoke of the locomotive would "obscure the +sun, and thereby ruin the crops." Farmyards and farmhouses would be +burned by their sparks; the clanking, puffing locomotive would have +such an effect on the mind as to drive people crazy (this was backed up +by certificates from a dozen doctors); locomotives would cause springs +to dry up and fields to become sterile; they would create great chasms +by constantly running over the same ground. + +What twaddle! + +Yet all their objections were made in good faith, and we have by no +means selected the most absurd. + +Old No. 1. proving too clumsy, a lighter locomotive was soon after +built by Stephenson, called the "Rocket," which we illustrate. It won a +prize of $1,500 in 1829, and is still preserved in the great locomotive +works at Newcastle-on-Tyne, England. + +The first railroad in America was built from the granite quarries of +Quincy, Mass., to the Neponset river, a few miles distant. + +Peter Cooper built one of the first American locomotives. It ran on the +Baltimore and Ohio R. R., and was called the Tom Thumb. + +The boiler of the Tom Thumb was built of gun barrels and shaped like a +huge bottle standing upright upon a simple platform car. + +Such was the beginning of the locomotive. + +In Great Britain alone over 600,000,000 people are annually drawn by +locomotives. + +Add to these figures, which represent only a small island, the persons +drawn by locomotives in America, Europe, and other parts of the world, +and the number becomes stupendous almost beyond belief. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +DESCRIPTION OF THE LOCOMOTIVE. + + +In order to become an engineer, the first thing necessary is to gain a +thorough understanding of the peculiarly complicated machine which it +is the duty of engineers to control. + +This is of the highest importance, and a careful study of this chapter +and the diagrams accompanying it will be of great assistance to anybody +who contemplates becoming an engineer. + +There are locomotives and locomotives, all built on the same general +plan, but varying in details according to the ideas of their builders, +and the class of work which they are expected to perform. + +[Illustration: AN AMERICAN LOCOMOTIVE WITH TWO DRIVING WHEELS.] + +Thus for elevated roads and short surface lines, devoted principally to +passenger travel, locomotives of light capacity are employed; costing +less at the start, and being less expensive to run. + +[Illustration: AMERICAN LOCOMOTIVE WITH FOUR DRIVING WHEELS.] + +The "dummy" is even a grade below these, being practically a stationary +engine set on a car with driving wheels attached. + +[Illustration: OUTSIDE VIEW OF LOCOMOTIVE.] + +[Illustration: INSIDE VIEW OF LOCOMOTIVE.] + +In America our locomotives are built with long boilers and have a +general trim appearance. + +Some have two driving wheels, others, still longer, have four. We +illustrate both of them. + +English locomotives present a clumsy appearance alongside the American. + +For us to attempt to decide which is the best, would be the height of +presumption. + +Certain it is, however, that English locomotives do run at a greater +average speed than those in the United States. + +We will now proceed to describe by tabular arrangement, an English +locomotive. + +This description will practically describe the American locomotive as +well. + +We cannot enter into a detailed description of both for want of space, +and select therefore the machine which has attained to the highest +speed. + +We will first look at the outside of the locomotive. + +1, 2, 3, Barrel of Boiler. 6, Smoke-box. 22, Smoke Stack. 32, Spring +balance. + +33, Whistle. 34, Dome. 64, Exhaust pipe. 70, Cab. 85, Brake blocks. 87, +Life guards. 88, Trailing axle and wheel. 59, Heading axle and wheel. +54, Driving axle. O, Speed indicator. P, Splasher. S, Sand-box. T, +Tool-box. V, Safety valve. W, Balance-wheel. + +Let us now take an inside view of the locomotive. Compare the numbers +carefully with the cut, and take time to think what you are doing, +otherwise don't read this part at all. + +1, 2, 3, Rings arranged telescopically, forming barrel of boiler. +4, Solid angle-iron ring. 5, Tube plate. 6, Smoke box. 7, Shell, or +covering plate. 8, Foundation ring. 9, Throat plate. 10, Back plate. +11, Fire door. 12, Covering plate of inside fire-box. 13, Tube plate. +14, Back plate. 15, Stays. 16, Mouth-piece. 17, Stays from inside +fire-box to shell plate. 18, Palm stays. 19, Tubes. 20, Smoke-box door. +21, Pinching screw. 22, Chimney. 23, Chimney cap. 24, Blast pipe. 25, +Top of blast pipe. 26, Balance weight. 27, Wheel spokes. 28, Front +buffer. 29, Mud plug. 30, Safety valve. 31, Safety lever. 32, Spring +balance. 33, Whistle. 34, Dome. 35, Regulator. 36, Steam pipes. 37, +Elbow pipe. 38, Brick arch. 39, Fire bars. 40, Ash pan. 41, Front +damper. 42, Back damper. 43, Frame plate. 44, Iron buffer beam (front). +45, Iron buffer beam (back). 46, (See half width plan) cylinder. 47, +Cylinder posts, valve. 48, Valve chest. 49, Steel motion plate. 50, +Horn blocks. 51, Axle boxes. 52, Slide bars. 53, Connecting rod. 54, +Crank shaft. 55, Crank shaft, big end of. 56, Crank shaft, arm of. 57, +Expansion link. 58, Weigh-bar shaft. 59, Valve spindle. 60, Valve rod +guide. (See half width plan). 61, Pump. 62, Delivery pipe. 63, Field +pipe. 64, Exhaust pipe. 65, Volute spring. 66, Draw-bar hook. 67, Lamp +iron. 68, Oil cup. 69, Oil pipes. 70, Cab. 71, Regulator handle. 72, +Reversing lever. 73, Draw-bar. 74, Draw-pin. 75, Steam-brake cylinder. +76, Hand-brake. 77, Sand-rod. 78, Front damper. 79, Back damper. 80, +Trailing wheel. 81, Driving wheel. 82, Leading wheel. 83, Spring. 84, +Hand rail. 85, Brake blocks. 86, Waste water-cocks. 87, Life guard. 88, +Railing axle. 89, Leading axle. Z, Lead plug. + +43, Frame plate from end to end of engine. 44, Iron buffer-beam. 46, +Cylinders. 50, Horn block, to carry axle-box and brass. 51, Axle-box +and brass. 52, Slide bars. 53, Connecting-rod. 54, Driving axle. 55, +Big end of driving axle. 56, Arm of driving axle. 59, Valve-spindle. +60, Valve-rod guide. 61, Pump. 76, Hand brake. 85, Brake blocks. 88, +Trailing axle. 89, Leading axle. 90, Piston rod. 91, Piston head, held +on the rod by a brass nut. 92, Backway eccentric rod. 93, Frontway +eccentric rod. 94, Eccentric Straps. 95, Eccentric sheaves. 96, Tire. +97, Lip on tire. 98, Brake irons. 99, Foot plating. 100, Transverse +stay. A, Water space between inside and outside fire boxes. B, +Slide-block with end of pump-ram screwed into the end. C, Link motion +(see 57, inside view). D, Slide valve rod, working guide. H, Inside +journal, showing how the axle is supported inside of frame plates. I, +Cross-head, solid, with piston rod. + +[Illustration: UNDERNEATH THE LOCOMOTIVE--HALF WIDTH PLAN.] + +15, stays in walls of fire-boxes. 18, stays from crown plate to +covering plate. 19, tubes. 23, smoke-stack. 40, ash-pan. 54, crank +shaft. 55, big end of crank-shaft. 56, arm of big end. 34, dome. + +[Illustration: IN FRONT OF THE LOCOMOTIVE CROSS-SECTION.] + +A, water space. F, nave of wheel. P, P, splashers over driving wheels. +R, right side of engine. L, left side of engine. + +75, steam brake handle. 33, whistle handle. 23, smoke stack. K, K, +weather glasses. O, speed indicator. E, conductor's bell. N, oil for +cylinder. X, blower handle. R, right side of engine. L, left side of +engine. M, M, gauge glasses. + + +SOME POINTS ABOUT THE LOCOMOTIVE. + +Here are a few interesting points about this particular locomotive +which we have just been describing. + +It is a single engine on six wheels--which are well distributed, with a +large boiler of abundant steam generating power with cylinders of great +capacity, and driving wheels of moderate diameter. + +It is accompanied by a tender on six wheels, capable of holding a +supply of 2,520 gallons of water, and 40 cwt. of coal. + +Notwithstanding its great capacity, this tender is so low that a tall +man may stand on top of the coal without fear of being knocked down by +bridges. + +There are over 47 tons of metal in the locomotive and tender. + +When they are in full working order the gross weight with water and +fuel amounts to 59 tons. + +This locomotive drew its first train 87 miles in 1 hour and 50 minutes. + + +DIFFERENCES IN LOCOMOTIVES. + +It is an old saying and a true one that no two locomotives are ever +alike, any more than two men are ever alike. + +The difference is due not so much to the materials of which the +locomotive is built as to the method in which they are put together, +for no two engines were ever put together geometrically alike. + +They may differ in some simple matter. It may be in the casting of the +cylinders, in the quality of the copper of the fire box, in the valves +or in the smoke stack. Whatever the difference may be there is still +always a difference which is bound to affect the running qualities +either for better or for worse. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER. + + +The boy who aims to become an engineer, if he desires success, must +make up his mind to two things. + +First, that he will, all his life, have plenty of hard work. + +Second, that he will, in spite of all obstacles become a good engineer. + +A boy who looks forward to the honorable calling should be of robust +health and perfect physically. If these conditions do not exist, he +should abandon the thought at once, and turn his attention to something +else. + +There is no royal road to engineering any more than there is to any +other honorable calling. + +A position must first be obtained in the round house as general helper. + +For a time the candidate must content himself with doing chores, +cleaning up and any odd jobs which are given him to do. + +At this stage of the game he must cultivate habits of observation, be +an attentive listener and try to understand and remember the "engine +talk," that is going on about him. + +Everything he learns in this way is going to be of service later on. + +For the first few months, unless he is fortunate enough to gain favor +in the eyes of some obliging engineer, no one is going to stop to +explain matters and he need not expect it. Nevertheless there are a +thousand and one little things that he can pick up if he is shrewd, all +of which will come in play later on. + +When the locomotive is taken out watch how they do it. When it comes in +keep your eyes open for points, and you will be sure to get them. When +it breaks down and comes in for repairs then is the very time of all +others to be on hand if you can and watch how they fix it. + +Every day will bring its own information--the boy's work is to watch +and remember, but he must not ask too many questions, and never any at +improper times, unless he desires the ill-will of everybody in the yard. + +By and bye he will be made an oiler, put to cleaning the big iron horse +and other work of similar sort. + +After a time he will slip into a fireman's job, and then he must +understand that his chance has come. Now all depends upon himself. + +Make friends with your engineer while you are acting as fireman, and +learn from him all you can. + +The way to make friends is to be industrious, obliging and always +courteous, no matter how tired you are or how badly things seem to go. + +The troubles and disappointments of one day should not be brought down +to the next. + +Let every day be a new beginning in itself. + +Don't drink. + +Don't swear. + +Don't lose your temper and flare out under reproof. + +Don't shirk your work and try to do as little us you can. + +[Illustration: BEHIND THE LOCOMOTIVE--LOOKING IN FROM THE CAB.] + +Don't say to yourself so and so ain't my work and I ain't going to do +it. Do whatever your hands find to do and do it with all your might. + +A model engineer is distinguished by the fullness of his knowledge of +the engine, and this must be learned while you are a fireman--not after +you become an engineer. + +He should love his work--the locomotive should be his hobby--and +whatever contributes to enlarge his stock of information concerning +it should contribute to his happiness. Unless he can feel that way, +he should promptly step out of the cab and turn his attention to some +other business, for he can never hope to make a good engineer. + +On the engine is the only place where one can learn to be an engineer. + +During the time the engine is under steam with a train, everything +seen, heard, felt and smelt is capable of affording a lesson. + +On the engine the eye is trained to distinguish different colors at +considerable distances. If one is color-blind he cannot be a good +engineer. + +On the engine the ear learns to detect the slightest variation in the +beats and knocks about the machinery--to distinguish the difference +between the knock of an axle box and the knock of a journal. + +On the engine the body learns to distinguish the shocks, oscillations, +etc., which are due to a defective road from those which arise from a +defective engine. The olfactory nerves became very sensitive so as to +detect the generation of heat from friction before any mischief is done. + +It is only while an engine is in steam and going at good speed that the +rocks, coral-reefs and sand-banks on railways can be seen and learned, +and the value of and the rank acquired by an engineer are in exact +proportion to the pains he takes to find them out, and to remark their +dangerous position on his chart. + +A model engineer can tell you all about any particular engine he +happens to see merely by glancing at it. + +He will be able to say this was built by so and so. I know it by this +crank, that piston. "Look here," he says, "that rod was built when I +was a boy, it's all out of date now, consequently the engine must have +been built in such a year." + +In short the model engineer should be familiar with the history of +locomotive engines from Old No. 1 down to date. + +The model engineer is always a good fireman. + +A man may be a first-rate mechanic, he may have worked at the best +class of machinery, he may have built engines and have read all the +published books on the locomotive, and yet, if he is not a good hand +at the coal shovel, he will never be a first-class engineer. + +A good fireman knows when to put on coal, how and where and just how +much. A man may be the best mechanic the world ever saw and know +nothing of these things which are the very all essentials of a good +engineer. + +A model engineer is clean himself, and his engine is cleaner. + +Cleanliness is said to be next to godliness. Upon a railroad it may +with truth be said that cleanliness is next below the highest talent +and next above the length of service. + +A clean engineer frequently scales the ladder of progress much faster +than a dirty one, although the latter may have everything else in his +favor. + +A model engineer runs the most important trains, and he is never the +man who wore the greasy, dirty cap or the coat and trousers all smeared +with oil. + +What is the secret of constant successful engine driving? + +Not length of service, not because a man has served so many years on +freight trains and so many more on passenger trains, for the best +engineers are ever those who have been promoted over the heads of +others for their smartness. + +Promotion according to merit should be the invariable rule on +railroads. Seniority should have nothing to do with it. The position +is too important, there are too many lives at stake, too much money +involved to make it right or proper to push one man forward beyond +another simply because of the length of his service. That sort of thing +is all right for ordinary business, but for engine driving it won't do. + +Merit tells. + +To the best engineer belong the best trains. + +Chance never built an engine, and it should have nothing to do with +running it. + +Yet the opposite way of doing things is the general rule. + +Engineer A retires, dies or is killed, and Engineer B is promoted +because he happens to be next on the list. He may be a dull, stupid +fellow, and Engineer C as bright as a dollar, but in the chance death +of A, B gets the prize, and everybody that has any interest in the +successful running of his train becomes the loser thereby. + +Engine driving, to be good, must be based upon rules and principles. + +He who strictly observes them wins; he who don't, loses. With the +latter all is uncertainty; the hand trembles upon the regulator, the +eye watches with painful anxiety the needle of the pressure gauge, and +gazes into the fire to find out its deficiencies, but gains nothing +but blindness by the attempt. + +With the engineer who has a reason for every act performed, either +by himself or his fireman, all is different. He works by rules and +principles that have proved themselves a thousand times over to be +safe, practical and certain in their results. + +Sound rules and principles are absolutely sure in the effects of their +application--not right to-day and wrong to-morrow; not right in a short +trip and all astray on a long one; not right on one particular engine +and wrong on another; not right on the first part of the run and wrong +at the end; not right with one kind of coal and wrong with another, but +_always right, every time_. + +Under the guidance of sound rules and principles, the mind of the +driver is full, and he is enabled, under all circumstances, to handle +the regulator with confidence, to travel with a boiler full of steam, +and to finish with success. + +In a word, these are rules and principles which lead up to and make the +success of an engineer. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +DUTIES OF AN ENGINEER. + + +Let us now consider in detail some of the more important duties of an +engineer. + + +THE NOTICE BOARD. + +Before going to his engine an engineer should, for his own safety, as +well as that of the public, visit the special and general notice boards +and post himself fully upon the running of the trains for the day. By +neglecting this more than one engineer has lost his life. + +An anecdote bearing on this is related on good authority, as follows: + +"By incessant rain a river had become so swollen that, owing to the +rush of water, the spiles of a wooden railway bridge became shifted. + +"The bridge was inspected, and one side of it pronounced to be +dangerous. Arrangements were made to use only one track until +repairs could be made, and notice of such arrangements posted in the +round-house. + +"The engineer neglected to visit the notice board, ran his train past +the man appointed to pilot him over the break, got his train off the +track, and was killed." + +After the engineer has read the notices and made himself thoroughly +acquainted with them, he may proceed to his engine--not before. + + +INSPECTION OF THE ENGINE. + +When on the foot plate the first thing an engineer wants to do is to +inspect his engine in every part. + +Begin with the water in the gauge glass and ascertain its level and +find out whether it correctly indicates the height of the water in the +boiler by opening the lower cock in the usual manner. + +Satisfied that the boiler is safe, the engineer must assume the +responsibility of looking after it, for should anything prove wrong +afterward, he alone can be called to account. + +He should also observe what pressure of steam there is in the boiler, +what is the condition of the fire, how much coal there is in the tender +and its quality, and lastly that the water supply is all right. + +If the inspection is made properly all will go well; if in a +half-hearted, slip-shod fashion trouble is sure to follow. + + +INSPECTION OF AN ENGINE OVER A PIT. + +It is a good and a safe rule to examine an engine over a pit before +starting out. When this is done properly and regularly, the habit is +unmistakably the mark of a good engineer. + +That an engine may be properly examined over a pit, it is necessary +that it should be placed in such a position that every part of it may +be seen and inspected without having the machinery moved. + +The examination, to be complete, should be commenced at one specified +point, and continued all around the engine, until the engineer returns +to the place where he began. + +In general, the only tools needed are wrenches. + +The inspection should begin at the trailing engine axle, on the +engineer's side, and the best rule is to examine everything, not +forgetting the fact that more engines break down in consequence of +bolts and split pins working out than from any other cause. + +After the engineer's side has been properly examined, the under side +of the engine next claims attention. The engineer should begin at the +crank shaft, taking his stand, where it is possible to do so, between +the shaft and the fire box, while he is testing the bolts and rivets +connected with it. + + +BIG ENDS. + +Big Ends require to be fitted brass and brass, to work well, and to be +well-cottered or bolted up, but with sufficient slackness on the crank +bearing to allow of their being easily moved sideways by hand, so that +a little room may be left for the expansion of the journal by heat. + +Big End brasses do best, wear longest, and knock least, when tightened +up a little at a time and often, instead of being allowed to run until +they thump alarmingly. With proper attention they seldom run hot. + + +LITTLE ENDS. + +Little Ends need scarcely any supervision excepting what is required +from the oiler, provided they are fitted with steel bushes. Those +fitted with brasses require the same attention as Big Ends. + + +ECCENTRICS. + +When the eccentrics are being examined particular attention should be +paid to the bolts, nuts, safety-cotters and set-pins. The bolts which +hold the two halves of each eccentric strap together should always nip +tightly, as any slackness always affects the engine's speed. + +Inspect carefully also the inside springs and axle boxes, specially +the latter. See that the fireman oils them; if he does not, you are to +blame. + +The ash-pan, piston rod, smoke box, etc., all need to be looked at with +care, for to run right the engine must start right, and this brings us +to the most important thing of all--the condition of the fire before +leaving the round house, for there is no other one thing on which an +engineer's good name, success and future prospects depend so much as on +the condition of the fire at the beginning of the day's work. + +If the fire is not properly lighted at the start, no matter how good +the engine or how smart the engineer, constant trouble during the trip, +to say nothing of an increased consumption of coal which is bound to +tell against him, will be the result. + +Don't get to your work late, and don't allow your fireman to be late. +If the fire is to be properly built he has got to take time to it. +Fires thrown together in a hurry always turn out bad. + + +DUTIES OF A FIREMAN. + +As the model engineer must first have served as fireman, let us say a +word on that score. + +Before a fireman can serve on a passenger train, he should have served +awhile as freight brakeman, or in the yard shifting cars. Before going +on an express train, he must have run on slow trains as fireman. All +this is necessary that he may acquire a knowledge of the petty details +of his work. + +A superintendent who puts a green hand at firing certainly exhibits a +great want of good judgment, to say the least, and just this has often +been the cause of serious accidents and loss of life. + +Here are a few things that a man must know before he can become an +engineer: + +1. How to make up a proper fire in a locomotive fire-box. + +2. How to handle the shovel when the engine is running. + +3. How to learn roads and signals. + +4. How to calculate the effect of the weather on the rails. + +5. How to manage an engine and train on varying grades. + +6. How to have full control of an engine and train at full speed. + +7. How to work the steam expansively and yet keep time. + +8. How to regulate the water supply. + +9. How to read the gauges at a glance and understand just what they +mean. + +Now all these things have got to be learned while a fireman, for unless +you know them you can never become an engineer. + +Some engineers will give no instructions. They demand certain results, +and if the fireman don't do just what they expect because he does not +understand what is wanted, they call him a fool, snatch the shovel out +of his hand and do the work themselves. + +It is the engineer who is the fool in this case, and doubly so if he +loses his temper and swears. + +Certainly it is very hard for a sensitive young man to learn of such a +master, but after all it is good discipline. + +Never mind if you are sworn at and dubbed an idiot. No matter if you do +choke a few fires and stop a few trains. Persevere! Keep your temper, +watch how the engineer does it and try to do the same yourself next +time. Show him that you are not the idiot he has called you, prove that +you are no fool by your patience and perseverance--qualities, like +enough, which he himself does not possess. + +A first class engineer, however, will show a new fireman just what he +wants done and how to do it. + +Here are a few lines from an excellent manual on engineering, +describing the conduct of a good engineer to his fireman. Read them +with care: + +"With good engineers an awkward fireman soon changes his habits and +appearance--he gets the knots dressed off of him, as it were. Has he +been taught to come on duty dirty and late? He is sharply reproved, and +very properly too. Does he throw the fire irons down anywhere after +using them? He is told there is a place for everything in that engine. +Is he dirty about his work? He is shown how to handle the shovel, oil +feeder and everything else without blackening himself to such a degree +that a boy in the street mistakes him for a chimney sweep. Thanks to +such engineers, who deserve much praise for keeping their firemen in +proper training, for, just as they _are_ trained so will they turn out +engineers, good or bad." + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +HOW TO RUN A TRAIN. + + +A good engineer works his engine with direct reference to the number of +cars he has to pull. + +It would seem as though any fool might know this, yet instances are on +record where careless engineers have actually pulled out of a station +without their trains, and never discovered that they were missing until +they had occasion to whistle for brakes. + + +STARTING. + +In starting the regulator should be opened gently, especially with a +full boiler. + +Care is necessary when starting to keep the cylinders and valves clear +of water. Half a pint of water will wash the faces of the cylinders +and valves. Slip or no slip, it is better to use a little sand than to +incur the risk of slipping when the rails are inclined to be slippery. + +When the engine begins to feel its load the regulator can be opened +more. A few clear, sonorous puffs at the start do good; they rouse the +fire into action at once--there is no hesitation in the matter. They +also clear the tubes of loose cinders and soot left in them after being +swept out. + +When you are well under way pull the lever up a notch or two at a time +until you get it just where you want it. Don't jerk it too far, then +let it out too much and have to pull it back. Feel your way as you go, +and time and trouble will be saved. + +Nothing looks so bad as to see an engineer suddenly close the +regulator, pull the lever very nearly out of gear and "smack" the steam +on again. The force with which the steam may strike the piston under +such circumstances is very great and often may do damage. + +To an attentive engineer the start is full of interest; for, although +he may have made a careful and thorough examination of his engine +before joining his train, he cannot feel satisfied that all is right +until the full pressure of the steam is on the piston and the engine +feels its load. + + +STEAM BLOWING. + +Now the engineer must begin to use his ears and eyes. + +As the train moves on he listens. + +Is the steam blowing? + +It is. + +Which side? + +This is the way to find out. + +Suppose a blow is heard at each turn and only when the outside crank +is nearly in a straight line with the piston rod looking from the +left-hand side of the foot-plate and with the outside cranks on the +same center line and on the same side of the axle as the inside crank. + +Then it would be discovered that a piston is blowing because the +sound is intermittent, for the blowing through of a valve would be a +continuous leaking. + +Further it would be certain that the defect was not in the left hand +cylinder, there being no steam in it when the cranks were in the +position above described, and therefore we must look to the right hand +cylinder where the full pressure of steam must be on the piston. + + +BEATS OF THE ENGINE. + +There are four beats for one revolution of the driving wheel or the +crank axle. + +These beats tell you in emphatic language whether the engine is running +right, or whether there is something out of gear. + +Learn what they mean and never let your attention be drawn from them. + +If the beats weaken--any one of them--it means trouble. Taken in time +the difficulty may be easily remedied, allowed to pass unnoticed, death +and disaster may result. + + +KEEPING UP STEAM. + +It is scarcely necessary to state that to properly run your engine +steam must be kept up. + +When the engine has got the train up to speed, steam should begin to +issue from the safety valves. When it does not do so there has not been +a full boiler, as there always should be at the start and the fireman +must be made to understand how to make a starting fire in proper shape. + +On short runs this does not matter so much, but on express trains it is +of the highest importance. + +On long runs if the engine is not instantly up to the mark at the +start, and if the feeds must be held off to allow the fire and the +engine a chance of recovery, the consequences are that the water in the +boiler gets lower and less, and the uncertainty of ever getting the +water up again becomes greater every minute, especially with a heavy +train and against a strong side wind. + + +MANAGEMENT OF FIRES. + +Of course the state of the steam depends altogether upon the way +the fires are managed, but for us to give directions how to manage +a locomotive fire-box to the best advantage would require pages of +description which could scarcely be understood unless one had had +previous practical experience. + +Remember one thing, the engineer is responsible for the fire, even if +he does not make it. He must therefore know when a fire is good and +when it is bad, _why_ and _what to do_. + +We shall, however, describe two styles of fire, the thoroughly bad and +the thoroughly good. All intermediate grades every man must learn for +himself. + + +HOW TO BUILD A BAD FIRE. + +Pile your coal up in the shape of a cone, by shoveling all the coal +into the middle of the fire box, and putting as little on the sides as +you possibly can. + +Such a fire possesses the following characteristics: Uncertainty as +regards steam making, positive certainty as regards the destruction +of fire boxes and tubes. It generally draws air at the walls of the +fire-box, and in consequence, the fire-irons are always in the fire, +knocking it about and wasting the fuel. + +As such fires are found in the center of the grate, they weigh down the +bars and burn them out in the middle in short order. Lastly, the cold +air being admitted into the fire-box up the sides instead of in the +middle, comes in direct contact with the heated plates and stays, doing +them a great deal of damage by causing contraction and expansion. + +Take the best engine ever built and let an engineer run it awhile with +these "haycock" fires, as they are called--and many do it--you will be +sure to find the boiler subject to sudden leakage, either in the joints +of the plates or in the stays, the tubes, or the foundation ring. Such +engines are always in the repair shop, and because of bad firing and +nothing else. + + +HOW TO BUILD A GOOD FIRE. + +The good locomotive fire should maintain steam under all circumstances +of load or weather, should consume its own smoke, should burn up every +particle of good matter in the coal, or, in other words, capable of +being worked to the highest point of economy. + +Such a fire requires to be made at the beginning, and maintained in a +form almost resembling the inside of a saucer, shallow and concave, +with its thinnest part in the center. + +A fire like this will make steam when other fires will make none. + +It is the only style of fire that should be permitted by a good +engineer. + + +FIRING. + +To fire properly the fireman should stand in such a position as to be +able to reach the coals in the tender easily, and to work the shovel +without shifting his feet, except when he turns slightly on his heels, +first, toward the coal, and then toward the fire hole. + +If a fireman, in the act of firing, lifts his feet off the foot +plate, he will roll about, and the firing will be improperly done, in +consequence of the coal being knocked off the shovel by the latter +catching against the fire hole ring or depletion plate. + +Don't jam the shovel into the fire-box--stop it dead at the fire-hole +ring. Give the coals a fling, discharging them like shot right into +their intended destination. + +Don't jam your shovel into the coal and load it down as much as +possible. A few lumps of coal lying nicely on the body of the shovel +can be handled better. The shovel should not be pushed into the coal by +the knees, but should be worked only by the muscles of the arm. + +Throw the first shovelful of coal into the left hand front corner, the +second shovelful in the right hand front corner, the third shovelful in +the right hand back corner, the fourth shovelful in the left hand back +corner, the fifth shovelful under the brick arch, close to the tube +plate; the sixth and last shovelful under the door. To land this one +properly the shovel must enter the fire-box and should be turned over +sharp to prevent the coals falling in the center of the grate or the +fire. + +Now comes the question when to fire. + +To fire properly, with the greatest effect in saving fuel, it should be +done as soon as the steam begins to lift the valves, when by opening +the fire-door and putting on a small quantity of coal the steam is +checked sufficiently to prevent its being wasted by blowing off. + +Some engineers have an idea that unless the steam blows off furiously +they have not done their duty by the engine. + +A big mistake this. + +When steam, water and fuel are being thrown away through the safety +valves, it is a positive proof of the existence of either one or the +other of the following evils: + +Either the engine is too small for its work or too great for its man, +and both the engine and the man would do better on short runs; the +former until it could be doctored, or the latter until he had learned +to bottle his noise. + +The intervals between the rounds of firing, which should consist of +six shovelfuls only each time the door is opened, is in every case +regulated by the weight of the train or load, the state of the weather +and the time allowed for running the trip, together with the quality of +coal. + +The greatest possible mistake on an engine is putting on too much coal. +The fire is choked, clinkers are formed, the temperature of the boiler +is reduced, contraction and expansion sets in and leaks are formed--in +a word everything goes wrong. + +The secret of good firing is to fire frequently, a little at a time. + + +FEEDING. + +Having discussed fire, let us now consider the other element upon which +the locomotive lives--water. + +The maintainance of steam in proper shape requires a knowledge of how +and when to feed. + +The aim in feeding should be to regulate, as nearly as possible, the +supply to the demand--just sufficient to keep the water at a proper +level in the glass. + +This keeps up an even temperature in the boiler plates, tubes and +fire-box, and this has much to do with the service of an engine. Many +engineers always work their feed in the precise way to get the worst +results. + +As soon as the boiler is full of steam and blowing off they turn on the +pump full and keep it on until the steam is from 30 to 50 pounds below +the maximum pressure before turning it off. + +This method is the very worst possible. What is wanted is a constant +moderate supply of water, keeping the pressure as nearly even as +possible. Nothing can beat this. + +When injectors are used one of them should be screwed down so that it +will act moderately like a pump. This will save the water which is +usually lost in turning injector on and off. + + +ON THE FOOT-PLATE. + +When the train is under full headway the engineer should stand in +his proper place on the foot-plate so as to be able to command the +regulator and reversing valve at an instant's notice. + +Especially is this necessary at night, when the engineer's attention +should always be on his engine, listening constantly to its beats +to detect any irregularity which may arise from some defect in the +machinery, frequently casting his eyes on the pressure gauge, and on +the level of the water in the gauge glass. + +When the fireman puts on coal, the engineer should look round +occasionally, to be sure that he is doing it right, placing the coal +next to the walls of the fire-box, and not piling them in a heap in the +middle. + +When the rails are slippery, great care is required to prevent the +engine from slipping, by closing the regulator in time. + +When about to enter a tunnel, the sand valves should be opened, and +the sand allowed to flow freely until the train emerges from the +tunnel--sand is cheaper than steam. + +Never forget that lives and property depend upon the faithful +performance of your work. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +HOW TO BUILD A MODEL LOCOMOTIVE. + + +As a preparatory step toward becoming an engineer, it is highly +desirable for the boy who looks forward to that honorable calling to +familiarize himself with the different parts of the locomotive engine. +This we have stated before. + +There is no better way to accomplish it than to build a model +locomotive. + +At first glance this may seem to be among the things impossible, but it +is not so, providing the boy has a mechanical turn, and any boy who has +not better not think of becoming an engineer. + +We now propose to give simple and accurate directions for building a +model locomotive, accompanying the same with a series of illustrations, +which we trust will be sufficient for the purpose intended. + +Before beginning we have one word of caution to offer. + +Don't do your work in a hurry. Don't calculate on the length of time +it is going to take you to do it. Make up your mind to understand each +detail before you begin, and to work slowly and carefully. + +If you remember this you will probably be able to build your +locomotive. If you forget it you certainly will fail. + + +HOW TO BEGIN. + +First of all in building a model locomotive, as in every other class of +engineering work, it is necessary to get the measurements correct in +spacing out the different parts to be joined together; and do not think +that because it is only a model you are making that any off-hand way +will do, because you will find before the engine is half finished that +great accuracy is necessary if you wish your model to work. + +A slight mistake in the measurements of a large engine will cause so +much friction as to take half its power to overcome. The same mistake +with your model will stop it entirely. + +In soldering be careful to get the metal thoroughly heated. You will +then get a firm joint--otherwise not. + +[Illustration: Fig. 1.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 3.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 4.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 6.] + +In giving these directions we assume that the boy who will undertake to +follow them is accustomed to the use of tools to some extent. If not, +he will have to learn as he advances by repeated experiments. + +Try your experiments on something else. In soldering, for instance, +solder pieces of brass together until you learn to make a joint. + +Don't try your experiments on your model, or you will grow discouraged +before you are half through. + +A word more about soldering. + +Do not touch the metal with the soldering-iron and then take it away. +You might be able to solder in that way but the joint would not hold, +but fall apart at the first pressure or slight blow. + +Soldering on the best work should be used very seldom, and all the +fastenings should be either done by riveting, screwing or brazing, and +it is hardly necessary to remark that no part of a boiler should be +soldered which comes in contact with the flame of the lamp or furnace. + +Brazing had better not be attempted by any boy who has not been +practically taught the art, unless it be on small joints. + +To braze the seams of a model boiler would require a forge fire, or a +very powerful gas blast--too expensive for the amateur. Small things +such as a broken slide valve, rod, etc., can be brazed by using a gas +blowpipe. + +This will cost but little to make, and as it will be useful, we +explain. See Fig. 1. + +To make a blowpipe such as is pictured in Fig. 1, first get a small +piece of brass tube, A, of about half an inch diameter, and 5 inches +long. Drill a hole at 2 inches from one end, and insert a piece of gas +pipe, B, soldering it in place. + +Now take a glass tube a quarter of an inch in diameter and 7 inches +long, hold one end in a gas flame, and when red-hot draw it out to a +fine point, then file round and break off the tip, leaving a small hole. + +Now take a sound cork and squeeze it into the tube A as at C, drill a +quarter inch hole through its center, insert the glass tube D, and the +blow pipe is finished. + +To use it you connect the pipe B with a gas bracket by means of a +rubber tube, and attach the glass tube D to a pair of bellows by means +of another piece of rubber tubing. The bellows should have an air-bag +attached. Otherwise you will have a jerky, uncertain flame. + +When you want to braze any article, bind the parts together with some +very fine brass wire and cover with a little powdered borax and water; +then lay the article on a piece of charcoal, and if it is necessary to +preserve the temper of the steel you are about brazing, cut a potato +in half and push each end of the steel rod into the halves, which will +keep the temperature from getting too high. + +Then turn on the gas and start your blow pipe, at the same time +working the bellows with your foot, and by either pushing in the glass +tube D, or drawing it slightly out, you can regulate the shape of the +flame as required. + +[Illustration: Fig. 2.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 5.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 7.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 8.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 11.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 12.] + +Now bring the flame to bear on the joint you wish to braze, having +first supplied plenty of borax. Soon you will find the brass wire +melting and running into the joint like water. It must then be neatly +filled up and the joint will be scarcely visible. + +Here are a few tools which will be useful to you in this work. + +A center punch, or steel spike for mashing metal for drilling, etc., +and a small riveting hammer. Three or four files of different degrees +of fineness, a screw plate and taps, a small hand-drill with a set of +drills to fit and a good firm vise. + +A lathe is of course desirable. Curves for bending metal you can easily +make from pieces of bar-iron, holding them in the vise while working on +them. + +When you have your tools ready get the material for your model. + +Several sheets of brass and copper, the castings and various sized +screws and bolts are what will be required. + +All being thus prepared the time has arrived to take the + + +FIRST STEP. + +The first step toward building a model locomotive is to be posted on +the action of steam in the cylinder. + +Go to encyclopedia and read up on that point. + +If you have no encyclopedia go and look one up in some library. You +can't build your engine until you understand this. + +Next draw an accurate plan of your model. + +Figure 2 is the idea. It is a side view of our locomotive. Let us +describe. + +A. Boiler. + +B. Smoke-stack. + +C. Screwhead, to fill boiler with water. + +D. Steam chest with safety valve attached on top. + +E. Whistle. + +F. Steam tap to start the engine with. + +H. H. Leading and trailing wheels. + +I. Driving wheel. + +K. Cylinders. + +L. Frame. + +M. Buffers. + +N. Set thumbscrew to fasten on the tender. + +O. The lamp. + +P. Tap, used to ascertain the quantity of water in the boiler. + +R. S. Hand rail. + +To all locomotives there are three principal parts, the frame work, or +carriage, the engine, or cylinders, and parts connected with them, and +the boiler. + +Our model shall be a fifteen inch one. + + +LAYING OUT MATERIALS + +is the next thing in order. First we want a sheet of brass for the bed +plate, 1/16th of an inch thick, cut 4×14 inches, and be sure to cut the +corners square. (See Figure 3.) + +Hammer this out flat, file it smooth and dress up, with emery cloth +fastened upon a flat piece of wood. + +Next cut a square hole in it as at C, beginning half an inch from B, +and making the opening 11 × 1-1/2 inches. Be careful to center this +hole on the line A B, or your engine will be lopsided, and you must +take the same care in setting the smoke stack, dome, etc. + +Now take Fig. 4. This represents one of the side frames. Cut these out +now, thus: + +Drill holes at A B C for the axles to work in. Finish both sides the +same way. Turn the bed plate upside down, fasten the frames on at a +quarter of an inch from either side by small angle pieces (Fig. 5), or +by soldering, which is easier done. Then solder a piece across each +end, about half an inch deep, and the frame is ready for the wheels. + +These you can make if you have a lathe, but it would be better to buy +your wheels ready made if you can, but if you can't do that, and have +the lathe, turn your tires up to the form shown in Fig. 6. + +The small wheels should be about 2-1/2 inches in diameter, and the +driving wheels, 4 inches. The rim, B, should project a little over +1/16th of an inch, and the rest of the edge should be beveled off +rightly, as at A. + +The spokes should then be filed up smooth, drilling out the center hole +for the axle before removing it from the lathe. + +Great care must be taken to turn both the driving wheels to exactly +the same diameter, or one wheel would travel further in a revolution +than the other, and as they ought both to be fixed rigidly on the crank +shaft, the engine would never travel in a straight line, but would go +round and round in a circle. + +Get some steel wire for the axles and fasten them to the wheels by +soldering or by cutting a slot with a fine file in the center of the +wheel, as at A, Fig. 7. Then file a small portion of the ends of the +axle flat and drive in a brass wedge made by a piece of wire which will +hold them together firmly. + +The crank shaft, or axle, must be hammered up to shape, making it hot +occasionally in the gas flame while working it. + +The cranks should be at right angles to each other, and the throw of +the crank half the distance of the cylinder stroke. + +For instance, say the cylinder being a 1-1/2 inch stroke, the distance +between A B (Fig. 8) will be three-quarters of an inch, you must then +ease the size of the crank at A to prevent the piston knocking the +cylinder ends. + +[Illustration: Fig. 9.] + +The cylinders you had better buy ready made or have them made for you. +Get a pair of oscillating cylinders of three-quarter inch bore and inch +and a half stroke. These will drive your engines several miles an hour. + +Fig. 9 gives an underneath view of the frame work and the place to put +the cylinders in. They must be supported by two lugs, A A, screwed to +the bed plate B, which must have a piece cut out on either side to +allow the driving wheels C, to work in, as at D; because, being larger +than the others, they project beyond the top of the bed plate, as shown +in Fig. 2. + +Next screw on by means of the hook F, the buffer beam, previously cut +from a piece of mahogany, 5 inches long, half an inch thick and one +inch deep, nicely squared and sand papered. Drill a hole at G, and pass +the shank of the hook through the beam and piece of brass in front of +the frame, screwing up tight with nut H. + +For buffers you may take two brass, flat-headed screws, and attach +them to the beam half an inch from either end, allowing half an inch +projection. + +Now polish everything smooth and bright. Next warm the model over the +gas--don't let it get hot--and carefully lacquer it with a small brush +taking care not to go over any part more than once. The spokes of the +wheels must be painted, the buffer beams varnished and the cylinders +painted, leaving the covers and flanges bright. Now put away your work +to dry, covering carefully from dust. + + +HOW TO MAKE THE BOILER. + +In making the boiler you can't be too careful. This is the part where +the greatest chance for failure comes in. + +Buy a piece of copper tubing 11 inches long, 3 inches wide and half an +inch in diameter. + +If you want to make it yourself bend your copper round a wooden roller +and rivet or solder together--riveting is the best if you can get it +tight. You must then turn two circles of brass about an eighth of an +inch thick for the ends and polish all. Fig 10 gives you the idea. + +Now push the ends into either end of the tube about an eighth of +an inch from the edge, as at A, Fig. 11, and solder in place. The +projecting flange must be hammered down all around as at B, soldered +and finished with a half round file. When filing solder use only an old +worn file as a good one soon fills up. + + +SMOKESTACK, TUBES, ETC. + +Now drill a hole at A (Fig. 10) for the smokestack, which should be +three-quarters of an inch in diameter. Then cut a slot in the bottom of +the boiler 6 inches long by 1-1/2 inches wide, commencing one-quarter +of an inch from the forward end of the boiler. + +[Illustration: Fig. 10.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 13.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 14.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 15.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 16.] + +Next take a sheet of copper and cut a piece about 6-1/4 inches long +by 6 inches wide and bend it over a wooden roller to the shape shown +in Fig. 12, keeping it 1-1/2 inches apart between A and B. Cut also +two other pieces of copper to the shape of your bent sheet (Fig. 12), +and make it long enough to reach to the dotted line. These form the +two ends, and may be placed an eighth of an inch from the edges, as in +Fig. 13, and soldered in place, and the projecting rims turned over and +sweated with solder from the outside, in the same manner that you did +the boiler ends in Fig. 11. Then drill a three-quarter inch hole at B +(Fig. 13) for the bottom of the smokestack to go into, and cut a piece +of three-quarter inch brass tubing of sufficient length to pass out at +top of boiler about half an inch, as shown at A, Fig. 10. You can then +hammer out a rim or flange on the bottom end of the smokestack and push +it up through the hole in the copper box, soldering it in place from +the top as at A, Fig. 14. Then drill two small holes at each end of the +box, B C, Fig. 14. These should be a little more than an eighth of an +inch in diameter, to allow an eighth of an inch tube to pass through. + +Now get two 12-inch lengths of hard drawn steam pipe, an eighth of an +inch in diameter, and with your screw plate put a thread on each end, +about half an inch in length. Then make eight nuts to fit the threads +on the piping, filing them up into proper shape. + +Now take the piping and bend it very gently, to prevent it cracking, +around a bar of iron or handle of some tool held in the vise, until +it is in the form shown in Fig. 15. Do each one the same, then mix a +little turpentine with white lead, and smear each end, where you have +formed the screws, taking care not to get any into the tubes, which can +be temporarily plugged up. + +Next put a nut at either end, as far as the thread will take it, then +smear a little white lead around the holes drilled in the ends of the +box, B C, Fig. 14. + +Push the tubes in from the inside, and screw up firmly with the +remaining nuts, in the position shown at Fig. 16. The inside nuts can +then be tightened up with a wrench, and if you do all this carefully, +you will never be troubled with any leakage, no matter what pressure +you may get in your boiler. + +These tubes are immensely strong, and owing to their small size, the +water in them is raised quickly to a higher temperature than that +contained in the rest of the boiler, causing a continual circulation to +take place, and a constant supply of steam to be found. + +The box can now be placed in the boiler, through the slot cut in the +bottom, taking care that the top of the box is not more than half way +up the boiler, as at B, Fig. 10. This will leave a portion projecting +below the lower edge of boiler like C. This part protects the flame +of the lamp from being blown away by the draught caused by traveling +along, and which would cause you to lose steam. Solder it firmly in +position from the outside to prevent the flame from touching any +soldered portion. Also solder neatly round A, Fig. 10. + +The smoke stack can be made from another piece of three-quarter inch +brass; turn it up in your lathe bright and put a collar on it at A Fig. +17, to allow it to push on to the piece of tube left projecting at A +Fig. 10. + +The top of the smoke stack, B Fig. 17, will also require turning in the +lathe and must be fitted on neatly. + +Get advice from some mechanic about the steam chest, which is a brass +casting and will have to be turned up in the lathe, and after cutting a +circular hole in the top of the boiler of about an inch in diameter it +can be either screwed or soldered on, previously putting the steam pipe +E in position by drilling a hole at F and after bending it as shown, +pass it through at F and solder in place. The top of pipe E should be +about a quarter of an inch from the top of inside of steam chest. + +Before soldering on the steam chest drill two holes as at G H Fig. 10, +one for the small lug G to be screwed into, which holds one end of the +lever of the safety valve, and that at H should be drilled conical with +a rimer, and the valve H can be turned in the lathe and afterwards +ground to fit the hole with a little emery and water, by means of a +slot cut across the top and worked round with a screw driver. + +The spring case of the safety valve I, Figure 10, is easily made from +a piece of one-eighth inch brass tubing, using some small, hard, brass +wire to form the spring. When finished it should be hooked to the eye +and screwed into the boiler at V. + +The manhole or screwhead, K, is used to refill the boiler when it has +steamed low and will have to be turned up to shape, and the bed, L, +which it screws into can be firmly soldered on the boiler, having first +drilled a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the screw itself, +which should be sufficiently large to allow an ordinary tin funnel to +be used to refill by, and the screw ought to be long enough to hold a +leather washer under the head to keep it steam-tight. + +The whistle, M, will require a hole drilled for it to be screwed into, +and that, as also the steam-tap, N, and water-tap, O, can be bought +cheap, ready to put on. + +The tap O should be screwed in at a slightly higher level than the top +of box B, and when working the engine should steam issue from it when +turned on instead of water, you ought to immediately blow off steam by +safety valve H. Then unscrew K, and refill the boiler with water. + +[Illustration: Fig. 17.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 18.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 19.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 21.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 22.] + +By this time the framework will be quite dry, no doubt, so you can, +after cleaning and polishing the boiler, attach it to the frame by a +screw or solder at the forward end, and the steam-pipe N can be screwed +on to the projecting piece of tube left at F, while you also screw a +short length of pipe into the steam box of engine through a hole in the +bed plate. Then bend it up to the steam tap, and solder them carefully +in position; this will hold the after end of the boiler firm. + +Go over every soldered joint to see if any small hole is left, and +resolder where necessary, as a hole in the boiler not larger than a +pin's point would prevent you from getting any pressure of steam in the +boiler, as the water would all blow out. + +Now lacquer or paint your boiler, and while it is drying turn your +attention to the lamp, which we picture in Fig. 18. + + +THE LAMP. + +The lamp is simply an oblong tin box, about 5 inches long by 1-1/4 +inches wide and three-quarters of an inch deep. + +To make it cut a piece of tin 4-1/2 by 5 inches and bend it to shape. +Then solder the two edges together and cut two ends to fit; push them +in and solder in place. + +Now cut three pieces of brass quarter-inch tubing into three-quarter +inch lengths; drilling holes in top of lamp, insert them, allowing a +quarter of an inch to project, as at A, Fig. 17. Then solder them on +four pieces of bent wire--C, C, C, C, Fig. 18--by which to hang the +lamp by means of two wire pins run through them and small holes drilled +in the sides of projecting piece C, Fig. 10. + +The screw filler B, Fig. 18, will have to be soldered in, also, and +when complete the tubes A may be filled with cotton wick and the lamp +about three-parts full of a methylated alcohol, which will give a +clear, smokeless flame. + +Now you can start your locomotive by filling the boiler about three +parts full of hot water, and then hooking the lamp underneath; you will +soon get up a good pressure of steam. + +See that the taps are all turned off, and if there is no leakage from +careless workmanship, you will find on turning the steam tap on, that +the locomotive will run beautifully and will travel at great speed +either on a smooth oil-cloth or a board floor. + +On rails it would run quicker still, but for this engine, if you make +a small tender of the shape shown in Fig. 19, and fasten it at any +angle by the set-screw on the foot-plate of the engine shown at N, Fig. +2, the model will run in any sized circle you may wish without rails, +according to the angle you fix the tender to the engine. + +Wooden cars you can make if you wish, but each one added will reduce +the speed of the engine, of course. + +Tin is the best material to use for the tender, as no great strength is +required--indeed it should be made as light as possible. The wheels +and axles you must finish in the same manner as those on the engine, +and it can be made into a tank to hold an extra supply of alcohol by +soldering a piece of tin round the inside and covering it in with +another piece cut to shape and fitted with a screw nut to fill by as +shown in Fig. 18. + +Such is the method of constructing a model locomotive which will run +without complicated machinery. + +The boy who has succeeded in following these directions will no doubt +be ambitious to try his hand on a more complete model on a larger +scale, something like Fig. 20 for instance, which is a side view of a +large model locomotive in a finished state. + + +HOW TO BUILD A LARGE MODEL LOCOMOTIVE. + +In building a large model the first thing to be done is to decide +how large you want it. Sketch your model carefully, or, if not able +to draw plans, get some one who is to help you. Make your plan the +exact size of the model you intend to build, then you can take all the +measurements from it and save yourself a lot of trouble and time. + +Remember, however, that the larger you make the engine the more +expensive the castings and materials will be. + +Should you persevere, however, and by good fortune succeed, you will +have a model locomotive that would cost you two or three hundred +dollars to buy ready made. If you have a lathe and can turn the wooden +models for the castings yourself, use sheet iron for the frame-work, +etc., where possible; the total expense will not be so very great. + +Begin your work in the same way you did on the other model. If you +want a bigger engine than the one shown in Fig. 20, there would be no +trouble in increasing the measurements, which we are about to give, +proportionately, remembering that Fig. 20 is drawn to an eighth-inch +scale. + + +DIMENSIONS. + +Make your dimensions as follows: Length over all, 3 ft. 2 in. Length +of bed-plate, 3.5 in. Width of bed-plate, 9 in. Diameter of driving +wheels, 8-1/4 in. Diameter of leading wheels, 5-1/4 in. Gauge--that is +width of track on which model can run--6-1/2 in. Cylinders, 1-3/4 in. +bore by 2-1/2 in. stroke. Length of boiler, including smoke box, 28 in. +Diameter of boiler, 5 in. + +Cylinders of the above dimensions will drive the engine at a high rate +of speed, with from 30 to 50 lbs. of steam. + + +DESCRIPTION OF LARGE MODEL LOCOMOTIVES. + +In Fig. 20, the different parts of the engine are lettered, and it +will be well for the boy who desires to make a locomotive like it to +compare the following description with the cut, before he does anything +else. + +[Illustration: Fig. 20.] + +A is the smoke stack and B the steam blast used to increase the +intensity of the fire worked by rod C running through the hollow +hand-rail D and ending in handle F. G is the steam-dome, which with the +safety valve is the same pattern previously used. H is the extra safety +valve, worked from the foot-plate. I is the steam whistle, K wind +guard, L starting lever, M smoke-box with door, N O spring buffers; +P is the line-clearer or wheel guard. Q are the leading wheels, R R +the driving wheels, S is one of the cylinders with piston rods and +guides bolted to frame and showing double connecting rod at T T. U U +are the springs which support the weight of the boiler, etc., on the +axle bearings. The spring or rear wheel does not show, being inside the +safety guard and hand-rail V. W is the back pressure valve, through +which the water is thrown by the force-pump into the boiler, and X is +the blow-off tap to clear the engine from all water after having used +it. Y shows the side of the ash-pan. + + +HOW TO DO THE WORK ON THE LARGE MODEL LOCOMOTIVE. + +First of all comes the frame work. It wants to be of eighth inch sheet +iron squared up perfectly true and flat and cut as is shown in Fig. 21, +beginning 4-1/2 inches from A, and leaving 6 inches at B, and cutting +it 6 inches wide there by 8 inches long, and continuing it 4 inches +wide for the rest of the distance. Be careful to keep it quite central +on the line A B, and leave two connecting strips 1 inch wide as at C C. + +The side frames come next. These must be much stronger and quite +different from those used in the previous model. They may be cut from +the same eighth inch iron to the shape shown in Fig. 22. + +The center of slot B is 17 inches from one end, the center of A 10 +inches from B, and the center of C 13 inches from B. + +In measuring, always start from a given center if you want to be +accurate. That is, from B to A and from B to C; not from B to A and +from C to B. + +The slots are each 1-1/4 inches wide by 2 inches deep, leaving 1 inch +of iron at the top, as shown. The four large boles shown in Fig. 23 are +only ornamental, and can be now cut out. They also serve to lighten the +frame. + +The frames, after being smoothed up can be fastened to the bed plate in +the manner described before, by angle-irons, or knees, riveted on. + +Two end pieces must also be prepared. Let them be 1 inch deep, with the +ends hammered square, at right angles, and then riveted to the bed +plate and side frames, as shown in Fig. 20. Then drill three holes in +them, about an inch and a half from either end, and one in the center, +by which to bolt on the buffer beams by means of a couple of screws put +in at the back. The buffer beams should be mahogany, 1 inch wide by 2 +deep by 10 long, squared nicely and sandpapered. A hook can then be +made--Fig. 23--and a hole being drilled in the center of the beam, you +can pass the hook stem through and into the central hole of framework, +and screw up tight with nut at back, which will hold all firmly in +place. The buffers for this model must be properly made, with springs +to take the pressure in case you should run into anything. + +Fig. 24 shows this buffer. You will have to get it cast. Turn out in +your lathe a wooden mold and get four castings in brass made from it. A +Fig. 24 is cast with a square base plate 2 inches square, as in front +view B, and is secured to the buffer beam by four flat-headed screws. +The piece C must be turned true and just the size to slide in and out +of A easily. Each part must be finished up in the lathe. A should be an +inch and a half long. Drill a hole in the buffer beam to allow the head +of the pin to work freely, and another hole in base plate of buffer the +size of the pin, whose head prevents the spring from forcing C entirely +away from A. + +The spring should be made of thick steel wire; the buffers can then be +screwed in as just mentioned. The wheel-guard or line-clearer P (Fig. +20) can next be cut out to shape and bolted on to frame, and should +just clear the line by a quarter of an inch. + +We will now proceed to the axle bearings and springs, U, Fig. 20. + +Make a wooden model like Fig. 25, and get 6 castings in brass made from +it. They must then be filed up square and smooth and fitted into the +slots cut at A, B, C, Fig 22, and either screwed or riveted on by the +side holes. Before finally fixing them prepare 6 brass bearings, B, Fig +25, which must fit exactly and slide easily in the inner surface of A, +then drilling a hole through each five-eighths of an inch in diameter. +These take the axles, which in this model are all straight, and +three-quarters of an inch in diameter, shouldered off to five-eighths +for the bearings. + +Next for the springs. Take 4 pieces of either sheet iron or brass for +the supports, 1-1/2 inches long by 1/4 inch wide. Drill a hole in +either end as shown at C, Fig. 26. A should be three-eighths of an inch +wide, drilled through, a pin put in and all riveted together loosely. + +[Illustration: Fig. 23.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 24.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 25.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 26.] + +Now take a clock spring and cut it into shape, as at D, Fig. 26. The +top piece requires to be made hot with your blow-pipe, then the ends +turned over to hold the pin B. Each piece of spring must be a little +shorter than the one above it, and the ends neatly tapered, all to be +inclosed in the brass band F, which has a small hole drilled at F to +hold the end of the pin by which the pressure is directed on to the +axle boxes, as shown in Fig. 20. A hole is also to be drilled in the +bed plate over the center of each axle box to allow the pin to pass +through, and also a smaller one an inch and a half on each side for the +support A, Fig. 26, to screw into. Now all can be fitted into position. + +Next come the cylinders. These are to be an inch thick and +three-quarters bore by two and a half inch stroke. They should be of +the fixed slide-valve pattern, with double eccentrics fitted on the +middle axle shaft, and reversing lever brought to quadrant on foot +plate. They had better be bought ready made. + +Fig. 27 shows their working. A A are the eccentrics, B the slide-valve +rod with guide G attached. C C is the bed plate and D the balance +weight, F the rod leading to quadrant and lever on foot plate. The +cranks are put on outside the wheels and fastened by keys as in Fig. +20. The connecting rod T should be cut to the form shown in Fig. 28, +and the ends squared out and a brass band fitted in with a hole drilled +from top A to oil by and a set screw B to adjust the bearings perfectly. + +If you wish to fit a force pump it should be placed centrally between +the cylinders and be worked by an eccentric on the main shaft, but a +pump on a model locomotive is next to useless unless it is also made to +work by hand. + +In Fig. 29, we have one which can be worked either way. A is the pump; +B the eccentric on main-shaft to work it by steam power. To work by +hand you have only to push up hook connection C, which disconnects it +from the eccentric; and then by working the handle D, which is screwed +into the bottom of the plunger C, the water is forced into the boiler. +An extra stuffing-box at F will be required. G is the exhaust water +pipe bent up to the back-pressure valve on boiler, and H the supply +pipe carried on to rear of engine. + +Two small blow-off cocks will be necessary on each cylinder to get rid +of the condensed steam when starting. They can be connected with a +tye-rod, and both worked from the foot-plate with a single handle. Now +paint to suit your taste and put away to dry. + +Next comes the boiler, which will need extreme care. For this you will +require sheet copper an eighth of an inch thick. + +First cut a piece 19 inches long by 16 wide and bend it round, forming +a cylinder 5 inches in diameter. The cap must be closely riveted and +the two ends hammered out into a flange outward, leaving the body of +the boiler 17 inches long, as in Fig. 30. B is the shape of the piece +to be next riveted on at after end. Now take another sheet 9 inches +wide and hammer a half inch flange round it, so as to fit over the +dotted line at A. Rivet them firmly together and also another piece in +after end. It will then have the appearance of Fig. 31, and should be +4-1/2 inches deep from A to B, and forming a copper box 6 inches wide +from B to C and 8 inches from C to D. Then rivet together another box +to form the inner casing 4-1/2 inches wide by 6-1/2 inches long and 9 +inches deep, the bottom to be hammered outward to the dimensions of B +C C D, as shown in section Fig. 32 at A A. A hole is next to be cut +out in the center of rear plate and also the rear part of inner casing +which comes opposite to it, and 1-3/4 inches by 2-1/2 forming the +furnace door. + +A casting of that shape and 3/4 of an inch thick, which is the distance +between the inner and outer casing B C, must be procured and drilled +with holes every 3/8 of an inch and firmly riveted in position, as +shown in Fig. 32 at D. Two pins should project on either side of the +inner surface to support the fire-bars and ash pan, and the bars should +be made of cast iron and small enough to get out easily by tilting up +one side; they should run lengthwise of the engine. + +For the boiler tubes some hard drawn brass tubing three-quarters of +an inch in diameter will be required. Cut the pieces slightly over +17 inches long, then drill 10 holes in the inner plate as at E, Fig. +32, and in the position and arrangement shown in Fig. 33. These tubes +should have a wire ring brazed on about a quarter of an inch from +either end, and then being placed in their respective holes in the tube +plate, the projecting portion is to be headed back with a flange, or +you can fit them in as already shown in Fig. 16 by each being double +screwed and nutted. These tubes allow the smoke and flame to pass +through from the furnace to the smoke box, M, Fig. 20, and so away up +the smoke stack, and by the large surface they expose to the fire, help +to raise steam very quickly. In some engines as many as 300 tubes are +fitted. + +The steam supply pipe and regulating lever handle should now be made +and placed in position, and Fig. 34 shows the shape to make it. A B are +the front and rear plates of the boiler, C is the supply pipe bent with +a screw end downward, after passing plate A, and then upward into the +steam dome, where it should be securely fastened into a cross-piece. D +is the tap or valve which can be turned on or off from the foot-plate +by means of the long rod, F, ending in the lever handle, G. + +The rod must be fitted with a stuffing-box, the same as those used on +the cylinders, and packed with cotton wick to prevent loss of steam by +leakage. When all this is complete, the forward end of the boiler can +be furnished with a tube-plate riveted on and the tubes flanged over. + +Now the boiler must go to a practical brazier, and be properly brazed. +Cut the hole for the steam dome, and let him braze it on at the same +time. If the job is practically done, your boiler can be heated red-hot +without fear. + +[Illustration: Fig. 27.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 28.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 29.] + +Meanwhile buy your pressure gauge--it wants to be one and a half inches +in diameter--and let the brazier test your boiler to 100 pounds steam +to the square inch capacity. + +Should it burst you will have to make another. If not you need +thereafter have no fears. + +Now make the smoke box, which should be three inches deep and of the +shape and dimensions shown in Fig. 35. This and the smoke-stack can be +made of iron, hammered up to shape and finished with a brass ring. The +smoke-box can be screwed on the forward flange or boiler. + +The door is drawn open to show the amount of bulge it should be +hammered to. In the center a hole should be drilled through which to +pass the screw used to close it, which is attached to the loose bar, A. +The handle, B, is then screwed up tight. + +The door is circular and must be large enough to overlap the opening +about half an inch and have a couple of bright iron or brass eyes, C, +riveted on to form the hinge. + +Next comes the back-pressure valve, Fig 36. A is a front view with +plate by which it is bolted to the boiler, as at W, Fig. 20. + +It is very simple to make, and consists of the casting A with top and +bottom covers and the ball-valve B, which ought to be ground with a +little emery and oil to fit perfectly. It acts in this manner. + +The water being forced up C from the pump, raises B and passes into the +boiler. On the up stroke of pump, the pressure is removed from under +B and the pressure of steam in the boiler causes it to fall back and +close the opening entirely, preventing any water from passing away from +the boiler. A small flange can be put on each outer side of the boiler +near the furnace to support it on bed-plate level with smoke box. + +The boiler should now be covered with flannel, cut to shape and wrapped +round the body part and a casing of sheet tin put over it and secured +by brass bands and small nuts underneath--as shown in Fig. 20. + +The steam supply pipe can now be connected with the cylinders and +it should be made forked as in Fig. 37. A leads from steam pipe and +branches off to each cylinder, where it must be screwed up with white +lead. + +The exhaust pipes B B should be of larger tubing and bent round up the +sides of the smoke box so as to be out of the way when you have to +clean the tubes. A small brass pipe, C, must also be passed through the +chimney, bent upwards and fitted with a tap which should take the steam +from the top of the boiler and be used as shown at D F Fig. 20. This +helps to raise steam very quickly. + +Fig. 38 is a rear view of the foot plate and shows the necessary +fittings which you must either make or buy to complete the model. + +The cocks you might make but the water gauge you must buy. A is the +furnace door, B two gauge taps, C starting-lever handle, D spring +balance safety valve, F wind-guard with two look-out holes, G steam +whistle handle, H pressure gauge, N the quadrant and lever for +reversing the engine, O the rear buffer beam with buffers, P the wheels +showing axle, R R the springs for same and V the safety-guard rail on +either side. + +[Illustration: Fig. 30.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 31.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 32.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 33.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 34.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 35.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 37.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 36.] + +When these fittings are all complete holes must be drilled in rear +plate for each piece; they must be firmly screwed in place with white +lead. The glass tube of the water gauge, the stuffing-box, and the +gland of the starting lever should be closely packed with tallow and +cotton wick. + +[Illustration: Fig. 38.] + +Next paint the entire model over again and let it dry. We give no +directions as to colors; use your own taste. After the paint is +thoroughly dry varnish with the best clear, hard varnish and let it dry +again. + +While it is drying you can be making the rails. + +Get some square bar iron, cut it into six-foot lengths, if you wish the +rails to be portable, and drill a hole in each end half an inch deep. + +The rails can be joined together at each end by means of a piece of +wire and kept at a proper distance apart by being fastened to pieces +of wood placed like sleepers, fastened by screws passing through holes +drilled in the rails every six inches. These sections can be laid +end to end, and your line be made as long as you wish. If you want a +circular line, each section must be bent to a portion of a circle; one +about 30 feet in diameter is suitable for this model. + +When finished place your locomotive on the track and get up steam. Fill +the boiler with water by means of a funnel until you see it rise up +three parts of the way in the glass water-gauge. Then see that all taps +are turned off and start the fire. Charcoal is the best fuel, as it +gives a clear, hot fire without much smoke once you start it right. + +Try the safety-valve occasionally to see how your steam is getting on, +and when it begins to form turn on the blast-tap, which will soon draw +up the fire, and you will presently see the pressure rise and show +itself in the pressure-gauge. + +When the gauge shows 30 lbs. of steam you might start the model by +turning on the cocks on cylinders until no more condensed steam issues +from them. + +Then shut them off and turn on steam full power and watch the engine +travel, gradually increasing its speed. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +CONCLUSION. + + +Let us now bear the conclusion of the whole matter, which takes us +straight back to where we started, and we again repeat if you want to +become an engineer make up your mind that you will be a good one or +none at all. + +We have examined the locomotive inside and out, underneath and on top, +even peering down the smoke-stack, crawling into the fire-box, and +learning the true science of shoveling coal. + +What then remains to be told? + +Nothing that can be remembered long enough to be of any practical use. + +There are matters--dozens of them--connected with locomotive +engineering which we have not even alluded to, but they are for the +most part such as must be learned by actual every day experience to be +of any use. + +We might, perhaps, under three heads speak a few closing words. First +let us take up + + +SIGNALS, + +and post ourselves a bit on that most important subject. + +The greater part of an engineer's time while on his engine must be +spent in the lookout for signals. + +Upon this depends not only the safety of every soul on the train but +his own as well. + +_Never jump at conclusions in the matter of signals._ + +Never assume that because a "distant" signal and all the other signals +are off the line is clear. + +Every engineer should, as far as possible, not only see that each +signal is off, but he should also cast his eye over the road in front +of him to see whether it _should_ be off. At night caution in the +matter of signals is even more necessary than in daylight. Then the +only safety lies in keeping a constant lookout. + +You must know your road. It is not enough to know where the up grades +lie and where the downs. You must know just how steep the grades are +and their length. + +Often signals are badly placed and cannot be seen until the engine is +close upon them. + +With this you have nothing to do. Engineers do not place signals. +Doubtless if they did they would alter the position of many of them. +All you have to do is to heed the signals, no matter how well or how +badly they are placed. + +To enter into a detailed description of signals until some universal +system of signaling is adopted, would be but a waste of time. + +You will have to learn all these things during your apprenticeship; +they are matters upon which books can give you little help. + +Presence of mind you must always have if you expect to become a good +engineer, and courage, too--plenty of it. This brings us to our second +head, which we will write + + +"BROKE DOWN." + +What to do when the engine has broken down? + +There comes the tug of war, the time when it will be definitely decided +whether the engineer is good, bad or indifferent. + +Hundreds of lives may depend upon prompt action, thousands of dollars' +worth of property are in the engineer's hands, either to waste or save +when the moment of the break down comes. + +In Mr. S. A. Alexander's excellent treatise entitled "Broke Down" +is placed in red letters over every page, "Protect Yourself from +Approaching Trains." + +When a break-down occurs, this is the first thought which should enter +the engineer's mind, and the first act should be to carry it out. + +There are many causes of a break-down, too many to enumerate. In +the roundhouse is the place to study break-downs, for here, daily, +every variety is open to inspection--broken crank-shafts, broken +eccentric-rods, eccentric-straps and sheaves, broken motion and broken +springs. + +Of course an engine may be broken, and yet able to run its train +through. This is an important consideration. Some engineers hardly know +when they are beaten. + +It is a matter of record that a certain engineer, known as "Hell-fire +Jack," ran his train over a bridge after one side had been washed +away by a raging flood. Thousands of such daring deeds have been +accomplished by engineers, but "Cautious Jacks" will be better +appreciated by the company than "Hell-fire Jacks" every time. + +Real heroism lies in good judgment and a cool head. Suppose that +the right hand back gear eccentric-rod breaks. "Can I get along in +forward gear, after having disconnected the rod and the strap?" is +the question. The answer is yes, and it should be prompt, as all such +answers should be when the engine breaks down. + +It is such readiness as this that makes break-downs but a matter of a +few moments. + +It is also highly necessary that the engineer should ask himself "What +tools have I upon the engine? What can I do with them? Can I find them +in the dark? If I run off the track in what condition is my screw jack? +Will it work properly? Have I a ratchet or bar to work it with?" + +These are things which should be continually kept in mind. + + +AIR BRAKES. + +The air-brake has changed engine driving materially in the last few +years, and a word or two concerning it should be said. + +The air-brake consists briefly of an air cylinder placed beneath each +car, which can be operated by the engineer from the foot plate, the +pressure of the air controlling the action of the brakes. + +There are two valves to an air-brake, one for ordinary stops and the +other for sudden stops in case of emergency. + +In the first only partial pressure of the confined air is used, in the +latter the full pressure is employed and the brakes brought against the +wheels with all force at once. + +One of the most important duties of an engineer is to be well assured +that the air-brakes are in proper working order. + +After the call for hand brakes has been given, the air brakes must not +be applied until the hand brakes are released. Air and hand brakes +should never be used at the same time on a car. + +When cars having different air pressures are coupled together the +brakes will work first on that having the highest pressure. + +Special instruction is needed to fully comprehend the working of air +brakes. + +Here is a speed table which may be useful. We have taken the liberty +of extracting it from Alexander's "Ready-reference for Locomotive +Engineers," an excellent hand-book with which all candidates for the +foot-plate should provide themselves. Published by the author, S. A. +Alexander, York, Pa. + + +TIME AND SPEED TABLES. + + Key: M = Minutes. + S = Seconds. + T = 10th of a Second. + + M S T + 10 miles per hour is 6.00 to 1 mile + 11 " " " " 5.27 " 1 " + 12 " " " " 5.90 " 1 " + 13 " " " " 4.37 " 1 " + 14 " " " " 4.17 " 1 " + 15 " " " " 4.00 " 1 " + 16 " " " " 3.45 " 1 " + 17 " " " " 3.32 " 1 " + 18 " " " " 3.20 " 1 " + 19 " " " " 3.09.5 " 1 " + 20 " " " " 3.00 " 1 " + 21 " " " " 2.51.5 " 1 " + 22 " " " " 2.43.5 " 1 " + 23 " " " " 2.36.5 " 1 " + 24 " " " " 2.30 " 1 " + 25 " " " " 2.24 " 1 " + 26 " " " " 2.18.6 " 1 " + 27 " " " " 2.13.3 " 1 " + 28 " " " " 2.08.5 " 1 " + 29 " " " " 2.04 " 1 " + 30 " " " " 2.00 " 1 " + 31 " " " " 1.56 " 1 " + 32 " " " " 1.52.5 " 1 " + 33 " " " " 1.49 " 1 " + 34 " " " " 1.45.6 " 1 " + 35 " " " " 1.42.6 " 1 " + 36 " " " " 1.40 " 1 " + 37 " " " " 1.37.3 " 1 " + 38 " " " " 1.34.7 " 1 " + 39 " " " " 1.32.3 " 1 " + 40 " " " " 1.30.0 " 1 " + 41 " " " " 1.27.7 " 1 " + 42 " " " " 1.25.7 " 1 " + 43 " " " " 1.23.5 " 1 " + 44 " " " " 1.21.7 " 1 " + 45 " " " " 1.20.0 " 1 " + 46 " " " " 1.18.2 " 1 " + 47 " " " " 1.16.6 " 1 " + 48 " " " " 1.15.0 " 1 " + 49 " " " " 1.13.5 " 1 " + 50 " " " " 1.12.0 " 1 " + 51 " " " " 1.10.6 " 1 " + 52 " " " " 1.09.4 " 1 " + 53 " " " " 1.07.9 " 1 " + 54 " " " " 1.06.6 " 1 " + 55 " " " " 1.05.4 " 1 " + 56 " " " " 1.04.3 " 1 " + 57 " " " " 1.03.2 " 1 " + 58 " " " " 1.02.2 " 1 " + 60 " " " " 1.00.0 " 1 " + 65 " " " " 0.55.3 " 1 " + 70 " " " " 0.51.4 " 1 " + 75 " " " " 0.48.0 " 1 " + 80 " " " " 0.45.0 " 1 " + 85 " " " " 0.42.3 " 1 " + 90 " " " " 0.40.0 " 1 " + 95 " " " " 0.37.9 " 1 " + 100" " " " 0.36.0 " 1 " + +The boy who aims to become an engineer should not waste his school +hours in idle dreaming or in too much sport. + +Improve every moment you can spare from other duties or needed exercise +in studying arithmetic, geometry, algebra and mechanical engineering. A +little knowledge as a draughtsman will also be a great help. + +Above all, get some larger manual on locomotive engineering and read +and re-read it until you know its contents by heart. + +Remember that there is no limit to knowledge in any direction. + +The time can never come to any engineer when he can truthfully say to +himself, "I know it all," and to his life-long study write + +[Illustration: THE END.] + + + + +THE LARGEST AND BEST LIBRARY. + +PLUCK AND LUCK. + +Colored Covers. 32 Pages. All Kinds of Good Stories. Price 5 Cents. +Issued Weekly. Read List Below. + + + No. + 1 Dick Decker, the Brave Young Fireman + by Ex Fire Chief Warden + 2 The Two Boy Brokers; or, From Messenger Boys to + Millionaires by a Retired Banker + 3 Little Lou, the Pride of the Continental Army. A Story + of the American Revolution by General Jas. A. Gordon + 4 Railroad Ralph, the Boy Engineer by Jas. C. Merritt + 5 The Boy Pilot of Lake Michigan by Capt. Thos. H. Wilson + 6 Joe Wiley, the Young Temperance Lecturer by Jno. B. Dowd + 7 The Little Swamp Fox. A Tale of General Marion and His + Men by General Jas. A. Gordon + 8 Young Grizzly Adams, the Wild Beast Tamer. A True Story + of Circus Life by Hal Standish + 9 North Pole Nat; or, The Secret of the Frozen Deep + by Capt. Thos. H. Wilson + 10 Little Deadshot, the Pride of the Trappers + by An Old Scout + 11 Liberty Hose; or, The Pride of Plattsville + by Ex Fire Chief Warden + 12 Engineer Steve, the Prince of the Rail + by Jas. C. Merritt + 13 Whistling Walt, the Champion Spy. A Story of the + American Revolution by General Jas. A. Gordon + 14 Lost in the Air; or, Over Land and Sea + by Allyn Draper + 15 The Little Demon; or, Plotting Against the Czar + by Howard Austin + 16 Fred Farrell, the Barkeeper's So by Jno. B. Dowd + 17 Slippery Steve, the Cunning Spy of the Revolution + by General Jas. A. Gordon + 18 Fred Flame, the Hero of Greystone No. 1 + by Ex Fire Chief Warden + 19 Harry Dare; or, A New York Boy in the Navy + by Col. Ralph Fenton + 20 Jack Quick, the Boy Engineer by Jas. C. Merritt + 21 Doublequick, the King Harpooner; or, The Wonder of the + Whalers by Capt. Thos. H. Wilson + 22 Rattling Rube, the Jolly Scout and Spy. A Story of the + Revolution by General Jas. A. Gordon + 23 In the Czar's Service; or, Dick Sherman in Russia + by Howard Austin + 24 Ben o' the Bowl; or, The Road to Ruin by Jno. B. Dowd + 25 Kit Carson, the King of Scouts by an Old Scout + 26 The School Boy Explorers; or, Among the Ruins of Yucatan + by Howard Austin + 27 The Wide Awakes; or, Burke Halliday, the Pride of the + Volunteers by Ex Fire Chief Warden + 28 The Frozen Deep; or, Two Years in the Ice + by Capt. Thos. H. Wilson + 29 The Swamp Rats; or, The Boys Who Fought for Washington + by Gen. Jas. A. Gordon + 30 Around the World on Cheek by Howard Austin + 31 Bushwhacker Ben; or, The Union Boys of Tennessee + by Col. Ralph Fenton + +For sale by all newsdealers, or sent to any address on receipt of +price, 5 cents per copy--6 copies for 25 cents. Address + + +FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, 29 West 26th St. N. Y. + + + + +GOLD! GOLD! GOLD! + +Young Klondike. + +Containing Stories of a Gold Seeker. + +PRICE 5 CENTS. + +Colored Covers. + + + No. + 1 Young Klondike; or, Off For the Land of Gold. + 2 Young Klondike's Claim; or, Nine Golden Nuggets. + 3 Young Klondike's First Million; or, His Great Strike on El Dorado + Creek. + 4 Young Klondike and the Claim Agents; or, Fighting the Land Sharks + of Dawson City. + 5 Young Klondike's New Diggings; or, The Great Gold Find on Owl Creek. + 6 Young Klondike's Chase; or, The Gold Pirates of the Yukon. + 7 Young Klondike's Golden Island; or, Half a Million in Dust. + 8 Young Klondike's Seven Strikes; or, The Gold Hunters of High Rock. + 9 Young Klondike's Journey to Juneau; or, Guarding a Million in Gold. + 10 Young Klondike's Lucky Camp; or, Working the Unknown's Claim. + 11 Young Klondike's Lost Million; or, The Mine Wreckers of Gold Creek. + 12 Young Klondike's Gold Syndicate; or, Breaking the Brokers of Dawson + City. + 13 Young Klondike's Golden Eagle; or, Working a Hidden Mine. + 14 Young Klondike's Trump Card; or, The Rush to Rocky River. + 15 Young Klondike's Arctic Trail; or, Lost in a Sea of Ice. + 16 Young Klondike's New Bonanza; or, The Gold Diggers of French Gulch. + 17 Young Klondike's Death Trap; or, Lost Underground. + 18 Young Klondike's Fight for a Claim; or, The Boomers of Raccoon + Creek. + 19 Young Klondike's Deep Sea Diggings; or, Working at the Mouth of + the Yukon. + 20 Young Klondike's Winter Camp; or, Mining Under the Snow. + +For sale by all newsdealers, or sent to any address on receipt of +price, 5 cents per copy--6 copies for 25 cents. Address + + +FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, + + 29 West 26th St., New York. + + + + +Work and Win. + +An Interesting Weekly for Young America. + +BRIGHT, CATCHY STORIES. + +Beautiful Colored Covers. + +32 Pages. Price 5 Cents. + +Don't fail to read about FRED FEARNOT'S Wonderful Adventures in SCHOOL, +at COLLEGE, on the STAGE, OUT WEST and as a DETECTIVE. They are BRIGHT, +INTERESTING and FASCINATING. + + +COMPLETE LIST. + + 1 Fred Fearnot; or, School Days at Avon. + 2 Fred Fearnot, Detective; or, Balking a Desperate Game. + 3 Fred Fearnot's Daring Rescue; or, A Hero in Spite of Himself. + 4 Fred Fearnot's Narrow Escape; or, The Plot That Failed. + 5 Fred Fearnot at Avon Again; or, His Second Term at School. + 6 Fred Fearnot's Pluck; or, His Race to Save a Life. + 7 Fred Fearnot as an Actor; or, His Fame Before the Footlights. + 8 Fred Fearnot at Sea; or, A Chase Across the Ocean. + 9 Fred Fearnot Out West; or, Adventures With the Cowboys. + 10 Fred Fearnot's Great Peril; or, Running Down the Counterfeiters. + 11 Fred Fearnot's Double Victory; or, Killing Two Birds With One + Stone. + 12 Fred Fearnot's Game Finish; or, His Bicycle Race to Save a Million. + 13 Fred Fearnot's Great Run; or, An Engineer For a Week. + 14 Fred Fearnot's Twenty Rounds; or, His Fight to Save His Honor. + 15 Fred Fearnot's Engine Company; or, Brave Work as a Fireman. + 16 Fred Fearnot's Good Work; or, Helping a Friend in Need. + +For sale by all newsdealers or sent to any address on receipt of price, +5 cents per copy, or 6 copies for 25 cents. + + +FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, + + 29 West 26th St., New York. + + + + +Secret Service. + +Old and Young King Brady, Detectives. + +32 Pages of Great Detective Stories. + +Handsomely Decorated Covers. + +Issued Weekly. Price 5 Cents. + +Containing Stories of Old King Brady, the Great Detective, assisted by +Young King Brady, his faithful young pupil. + +Embracing the most daring adventures, startling scenes and hairbreadth +escapes ever published. + + +READ THE FOLLOWING LIST. + + 1. The Black Band; or, The Two King Bradys Against a Hard Gang. + 2. Told by the Ticker; or, The Two King Bradys on a Wall Street Case. + 3. The Bradys After a Million; or, Their Chase to Save an Heiress. + 4. The Bradys' Great Bluff; or, A Bunco Game that Failed to Work. + 5. In and Out; or, The Two King Bradys on a Lively Chase. + +For sale by all newsdealers or sent postpaid on receipt of price, 5 +cents per copy, by + + +FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, + + 29 West 26th St., New York. + + + + +Handsome Harry. + +Stories of Land and Sea. + +Issued Weekly. - 32 pages. + +HANDSOMELY EMBELLISHED COVER. + +THE MOST ENTERTAINING AND EXCITING LIBRARY PUBLISHED + +Read about HANDSOME HARRY, THE BRAVE COMMANDER. + +Read about CHING-CHING, THE TRICKY CHINEE. + +Read about SAMSON, THE GIGANTIC NEGRO. + +Price 5 Cents. Price 5 Cents. + + +LIST OF NUMBERS: + + 1. Handsome Harry of the Fighting Belvedere. + 2. Handsome Harry's Peril; or, Saved by His Trusty Crew. + 3. Handsome Harry's Chase; or, On the Track of the "Vulture." + 4. Handsome Harry in Africa; or, A Land Hunt for His Foe. + 5. Handsome Harry and the Slaver; or, Adventures With Friends and + Foes. + +If you cannot procure any numbers of Handsome Harry from your +newsdealer, send the price, 5 cents per copy, to us and we will send +any copies ordered by return mail. Address + + +FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, + + 29 West 26th St., New York. + + + + +OUR 10 CENT HAND BOOKS. + +_USEFUL, INSTRUCTIVE AND AMUSING._ + +Containing valuable information on almost every subject such as +=Writing=, =Speaking=, =Dancing=, =Cooking=; also, =Rules of +Etiquette=, =The Art of Ventriloquism=, =Gymnastic Exercises=, and =The +Science of Self-Defense=, =etc.=, =etc.= + + + 1 NAPOLEON'S ORACULUM AND DREAM BOOK. + 2 HOW TO DO TRICKS. + 3 HOW TO FLIRT. + 4 HOW TO DANCE. + 5 HOW TO MAKE LOVE. + 6 HOW TO BECOME AN ATHLETE. + 7 HOW TO KEEP BIRDS. + 8 HOW TO BECOME A SCIENTIST. + 9 HOW TO BECOME A VENTRILOQUIST. + 10 HOW TO BOX. + 11 HOW TO WRITE LOVE LETTERS. + 12 HOW TO WRITE LETTERS TO LADIES. + 13 HOW TO DO IT; OR, BOOK OF ETIQUETTE. + 14 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. + 15 HOW TO BECOME RICH. + 16 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. + 17 HOW TO DRESS. + 18 HOW TO BECOME BEAUTIFUL. + 19 FRANK TOUSEY'S U. S. DISTANCE TABLES, POCKET COMPANION AND GUIDE. + 20 HOW TO ENTERTAIN AN EVENING PARTY. + 21 HOW TO HUNT AND FISH. + 22 HOW TO DO SECOND SIGHT. + 23 HOW TO EXPLAIN DREAMS. + 24 HOW TO WRITE LETTERS TO GENTLEMEN. + 25 HOW TO BECOME A GYMNAST. + 26 HOW TO ROW, SAIL AND BUILD A BOAT. + 27 HOW TO RECITE AND BOOK OF RECITATIONS. + 28 HOW TO TELL FORTUNES. + 29 HOW TO BECOME AN INVENTOR. + 30 HOW TO COOK. + 31 HOW TO BECOME A SPEAKER. + 32 HOW TO RIDE A BICYCLE. + 33 HOW TO BEHAVE. + 34 HOW TO FENCE. + 35 HOW TO PLAY GAMES. + 36 HOW TO SOLVE CONUNDRUMS. + 37 HOW TO KEEP HOUSE. + 38 HOW TO BECOME YOUR OWN DOCTOR. + 39 HOW TO RAISE DOGS, POULTRY, PIGEONS AND RABBITS. + 40 HOW TO MAKE AND SET TRAPS. + 41 THE BOYS OF NEW YORK END MEN'S JOKE BOOK. + 42 THE BOYS OF NEW YORK STUMP SPEAKER. + 43 HOW TO BECOME A MAGICIAN. + 44 HOW TO WRITE IN AN ALBUM. + 45 THE BOYS OF NEW YORK MINSTREL GUIDE AND JOKE BOOK. + 46 HOW TO MAKE AND USE ELECTRICITY. + 47 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. + 48 HOW TO BUILD AND SAIL CANOES. + 49 HOW TO DEBATE. + 50 HOW TO STUFF BIRDS AND ANIMALS. + 51 HOW TO DO TRICKS WITH CARDS. + 52 HOW TO PLAY CARDS. + 53 HOW TO WRITE LETTERS. + 54 HOW TO KEEP AND MANAGE PETS. + 55 HOW TO COLLECT STAMPS AND COINS. + 56 HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER. + 57 HOW TO MAKE MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. + 58 HOW TO BECOME A DETECTIVE. + 59 HOW TO MAKE A MAGIC LANTERN. + 60 HOW TO BECOME A PHOTOGRAPHER. + 61 HOW TO BECOME A BOWLER. + 62 HOW TO BECOME A WEST POINT MILITARY CADET. + 63 HOW TO BECOME A NAVAL CADET. + 64 HOW TO MAKE ELECTRICAL MACHINES. + 65 MULDOON'S JOKES. + 66 HOW TO DO PUZZLES. + 67 HOW TO DO ELECTRICAL TRICKS. + 68 HOW TO DO CHEMICAL TRICKS. + 69 HOW TO DO SLEIGHT OF HAND. + 70 HOW TO MAKE MAGIC TOYS. + 71 HOW TO DO MECHANICAL TRICKS. + 72 HOW TO DO SIXTY TRICKS WITH CARDS. + 73 HOW TO DO TRICKS WITH NUMBERS. + 74 HOW TO WRITE LETTERS CORRECTLY. + 75 HOW TO BECOME A CONJURER. + 76 HOW TO TELL FORTUNES BY THE HAND. + 77 HOW TO DO FORTY TRICKS WITH CARDS. + 78 HOW TO DO THE BLACK ART. + 79 HOW TO BECOME AN ACTOR. + +All the above books are for sale by newsdealers throughout the United +States and Canada, or they will be sent, post-paid, to your address, on +receipt of 10c. each. + +_Send Your Name and Address for Our Latest Illustrated Catalogue._ + + +FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, + + 29 WEST 26th STREET, NEW YORK. + + + + +Transcriber's note: + +The Table of Contents was added by the transcriber. + +Some inconsistent punctuation has been normalized throughout the book. + +Some inconsistent hyphenation (e.g. smokestack vs. smoke-stack) has +been retained. + +Some illustrations in this book appear to have been lifted from +Locomotive Engine Driving: A Practical Manual for Engineers in Charge +of Locomotive Engines by Michael Reynolds (London: Crosby Lockwood, +1888). + +Fractions have been normalized to the form X-Y/Z. + +Page 5, changed "locomotiive" to "locomotive." + +Page 7, changed "Engilsh" to "English." + +Page 8, changed "clumsey" to "clumsy" and "prise" to "prize." + +Page 16, changed "guage" to "gauge." + +Page 17, changed "will came" to "will come." + +Page 19, changed "where on can" to "where one can." + +Page 21, changed "gain" to "gains." + +Page 22, changed "reponsibility" to "responsibility." + +Page 24, changed "read then" to "read them." + +Page 27, changed "thinest" to "thinnest." + +Page 29, changed "guage" to "gauge" (twice) and "at at" to "at." + +Page 34, changed "undestand" to "understand." + +Page 51, changed "shown it Fig. 35" to "shown in Fig. 35" and "llittle" +to "little." + +Page 56, changed "definately" to "definitely." + +Page 57, changed "air-brakes consists" to "air-brake consists." + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO BECOME AN ENGINEER*** + + +******* This file should be named 44604-8.txt or 44604-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/4/6/0/44604 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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