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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Indians of the Painted Desert Region, by
+George Wharton James
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Indians of the Painted Desert Region
+ Hopis, Navahoes, Wallapais, Havasupais
+
+Author: George Wharton James
+
+Release Date: January 8, 2014 [EBook #44627]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INDIANS OF PAINTED DESERT REGION ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Whitehead, Greg Bergquist and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ The Indians
+ of
+ The Painted Desert Region
+
+
+
+
+ WORKS BY
+
+ George Wharton James
+
+
+ IN AND AROUND THE GRAND CANYON OF THE
+ COLORADO RIVER IN ARIZONA.
+
+ THE INDIANS OF THE PAINTED DESERT REGION.
+
+ THE MISSIONS AND MISSION INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA.
+
+ INDIAN BASKETRY.
+
+
+
+
+ [Illustration: IN THE HEART OF THE PAINTED DESERT.]
+
+
+
+
+ The Indians
+ of the
+ Painted Desert Region
+
+ _Hopis_, _Navahoes_, _Wallapais_,
+ _Havasupais_
+
+
+ By
+ George Wharton James
+ Author of "In and Around the Grand Canyon," etc.
+
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+
+ _With Numerous Illustrations from Photographs_
+
+
+
+
+ Boston
+ Little, Brown, and Company
+ 1903
+
+
+
+
+ _Copyright, 1903_,
+
+ BY EDITH E. FARNSWORTH
+
+
+ _All rights reserved_
+
+ Published October, 1903
+
+
+ UNIVERSITY PRESS · JOHN WILSON
+ AND SON · CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A.
+
+
+
+ _To my Wife_
+
+
+
+ CONTENTS
+
+
+ PAGE
+
+ INTRODUCTORY xiii
+
+ CHAPTER
+
+ I. THE PAINTED DESERT REGION 1
+
+ II. DESERT RECOLLECTIONS 10
+
+ III. FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE HOPI 29
+
+ IV. THE HOPI VILLAGES AND THEIR HISTORY 44
+
+ V. A FEW HOPI CUSTOMS 66
+
+ VI. THE RELIGIOUS LIFE OF THE HOPI 82
+
+ VII. THE HOPI SNAKE DANCE 102
+
+ VIII. THE NAVAHO AND HIS HISTORY 124
+
+ IX. THE NAVAHO AT HOME 138
+
+ X. THE NAVAHO AS A BLANKET WEAVER 160
+
+ XI. THE WALLAPAIS 172
+
+ XII. THE ADVENT OF THE WALLAPAIS 188
+
+ XIII. THE PEOPLE OF THE BLUE WATER AND THEIR HOME 199
+
+ XIV. THE HAVASUPAIS AND THEIR LEGENDS 209
+
+ XV. THE SOCIAL AND DOMESTIC LIFE OF THE HAVASUPAIS 220
+
+ XVI. THE HAVASUPAIS' RELIGIOUS DANCES AND BELIEFS 248
+
+ BIBLIOGRAPHY 265
+
+
+
+
+ _ILLUSTRATIONS_
+
+
+ In the Heart of the Painted Desert. _Frontispiece_
+
+ A Son of the Desert. _Vignette on Title_
+
+ In the Heart of the Petrified Forest. _Facing page_ xvi
+
+ A Freak of Erosion in the Petrified Forest. " " 2
+
+ Journeying over the Painted Desert to the
+ Hopi Snake Dance. " " 2
+
+ Ancient Pottery dug from Prehistoric Ruins on
+ the Painted Desert. " " 8
+
+ The Painted Desert near the Little Colorado
+ River. " " 16
+
+ Asleep, Early Morning, on the Painted Desert. " " 16
+
+ The Colorado River at Bass Ferry, the Vampire
+ of the Painted Desert. " " 22
+
+ Hano, (Tewa) from the Head of the Trail. " " 34
+
+ Hopi Women building a House at Oraibi. " " 38
+
+ Mashonganavi from the Terrace below. " " 38
+
+ Mashongce, an Oraibi Maiden, drying Corn
+ Meal. " " 42
+
+ The Trio of Metates, and Hopi Woman about
+ to grind Corn. " " 42
+
+ An Oraibi Woman shelling Corn in a Basket
+ of Yucca Fibre. " " 50
+
+ The "Burro" of Hopi Transportation. " " 50
+
+ An Aged Hopi at Oraibi. " " 54
+
+ A Hopi, weaving a Native Cotton Ceremonial
+ Kilt. " " 54
+
+ An Oraibi Basket Weaver. " " 60
+
+ An Admiring Hopi Mother. " " 60
+
+ Shupela, Father of Kopeli, Late Snake Priest
+ at Walpi. " " 68
+
+ A Hopi Girl, Oraibi. " " 68
+
+ Hopi Children, at Oraibi, waiting for a Scramble
+ of Candy. " " 76
+
+ Group of Hopi Maidens at Shungopavi. " " 82
+
+ Hopi Woman weaving Basket, her Husband
+ Knitting Stockings. " " 88
+
+ Hopi Woman preparing Corn Meal for making
+ Doughnuts. " " 88
+
+ Hopi "Boomerangs." " " 96
+
+ Hopi Ceremonial Drums. " " 96
+
+ A Hopi Belle at Shungopavi. " " 100
+
+ Blind Hopi Boy, Knitting Stockings. " " 100
+
+ The Beginning of the Hopi Snake Dance,
+ Oraibi, 1902. " " 102
+
+ The Chief Antelope Priest depositing Pahos at
+ the Shrine of the Spider Woman. " " 106
+
+ Throwing the Snakes into the Circle of Sacred
+ Meal. " " 106
+
+ Line-up of Snake and Antelope Priests, Antelope
+ Dance, Oraibi, 1902. " " 110
+
+ The Snake Dance at Oraibi, 1902. " " 114
+
+ The Snakes in the Kiva at Mashonganavi, after
+ the Ceremony of Washing. " " 118
+
+ After taking the Emetic. Hopi Snake Dance at
+ Walpi. " " 122
+
+ Navaho Silver Necklace and Belt. " " 126
+
+ Hopi Prayer Sticks or Pahos. " " 126
+
+ An Aged Navaho, looking over the Painted
+ Desert. " " 131
+
+ An Old Hopi at Oraibi. " " 131
+
+ Hopi Ceremonial Head-dresses. " " 134
+
+ Hopi Bahos and Dance Rattles. " " 134
+
+ Kapata, Antelope Priest, at Walpi. " " 140
+
+ A Mashonganavi Hopi, going to hoe his Corn. " " 140
+
+ The Antelope Priests leaving their Kiva for the
+ Snake Dance. " " 146
+
+ The Widow, Daughters, and Grandchildren of
+ the Navaho Chief, Manuelito. " " 146
+
+ Wife of Leve Leve, Wallapai Chief. " " 156
+
+ The March of the Antelope Priests, Oraibi, 1902. " " 156
+
+ An Aged Navaho and her Hogan. " " 170
+
+ Navaho Family and Hogan in the Painted
+ Desert. " " 170
+
+ Navaho Woman on Horseback. " " 176
+
+ The Winner of the "Gallo" Race, at Tohatchi. " " 176
+
+ A Wallapai, making a Meal on the Fruit of the
+ Tuna, or Prickly Pear. " " 188
+
+ Wallapai Maiden and Prayer Basket. " " 188
+
+ Susquatami, Wallapai War Chief. " " 196
+
+ Tuasula, Wallapai Chief. " " 196
+
+ Havasupai Fortress and Hue-gli-i-wa, or Rock
+ Figures. " " 206
+
+ Chickapanagie's Wife, a Havasupai, parching
+ Corn in a Basket. " " 210
+
+ A Wallapai Woman pounding Acorns. " " 210
+
+ Havasupai Mother and Child. " " 216
+
+ A Family Group of Havasupais. " " 216
+
+ Waluthanca's Daughter, with Esuwa, going for
+ Water. " " 230
+
+ Lanoman's Wife, a Havasupai. " " 230
+
+ Rock Jones, Leading Medicine Man of Havasupais. " " 256
+
+ Sinyela, with Esuwa, going for Water. " " 256
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY
+
+
+Wild, weird, and mystic pictures are formed in the mind by the very
+name--the Painted Desert. The sound itself suggests a fabled rather
+than a real land. Surely it must be akin to Atlantis or the Island
+of Circe or the place where the Cyclops lived. Is it not a land of
+enchantment and dreams, not a place for living men and women, Indians
+though they be?
+
+It _is_ a land of enchantment, but also of stern reality, as those who
+have marched, unprepared, across its waterless wastes can testify. No
+fabled land ever surpassed it in its wondrousness, yet a railway runs
+directly over it, and it is not on some far-away continent, but is
+close at hand; a portion, indeed, of our own United States.
+
+In our schoolboy days we used to read of the Great American Desert. The
+march of civilization has marched that "desert" out of existence. Is
+the Painted Desert a fiction of early geographers, like unto the Great
+American Desert, to be wiped from the map when we have more knowledge?
+
+No! It is in actual existence as it was when first seen by the white
+men, about three hundred and fifty years ago, and as it doubtless will
+be for untold centuries yet to come.
+
+Coronado and his band of daring conquistadors, preceded by Marcos de
+Niza and Stephen the Negro, reaching out with gold-lustful hands, came
+into the region from northern Mexico, conquered Cibola--Zuni--and from
+there sent out a small band to investigate the stories told by the
+Zunis of a people who lived about one hundred miles to the northwest,
+whom they called A-mo-ke-vi. The Navaho Indians said the home of the
+A-mo-ke-vi was a Ta-sa-ûn´--a country of isolated buttes--so the
+Spaniards called the people Moki (Moqui) and their land "the province
+of Tusayan," and by those names they have ever since been known.
+
+Yet these names are not the ones by which they designate themselves and
+their land. They are the Hopituh, which Stephen says means "the wise
+people," and Fewkes, "the people of peace."
+
+It was in marching to the land of the Hopituh that the Spaniards
+designated the region "el pintado desierto." And a painted desert it
+truly is. Elsewhere I have described some of its horrors,[1] for I have
+been familiar with them, more or less, for upwards of twenty years.
+I do not write of that of which I have merely heard, but "mine eyes
+have seen," again and again, that which I describe. I have been almost
+frozen in its piercing snow-storms; choked with sand in its whirling
+sand-storms; wet through ere I could dismount from my horse in its
+fierce rain-storms; terrified and temporarily blinded by the brilliancy
+of its lightning-storms; and almost sunstruck by the scorching power of
+the sun in its desolate confines. I have seen the sluggish waters of
+the Little Colorado River rise several feet in the night and place an
+impassable barrier temporarily before us. With my horses I have camped,
+again and again, waterless, on its arid and inhospitable rocks and
+sands, and prayed for morning, only to resume our exhausting journey in
+the fiercely beating rays of the burning sun; longing for some pool of
+water, no matter how dirty, how stagnant, that our parched tongues and
+throats might feel the delights of swallowing something fluid. And last
+year (1902), in a journey to the home of the Hopi, my friends and I saw
+a part of this desert covered with the waters of a fierce rain-storm
+as if it were an ocean, and the "dry wash" of the Oraibi the scene of
+a flood that, for hours, equalled the rapids of the Colorado River. We
+were almost engulfed in a quicksand, and a few days later covered with
+a sand-storm; all these experiences, and others, in the course of a few
+days.
+
+[1] "In and Around the Grand Canyon."
+
+Stand with me on the summit of one of the towering mountains that
+guard the region and you will see such a landscape of color as exists
+nowhere else in the world. It suggests the thought of God's original
+palette--where He experimented in color ere He decided how to paint the
+sunset, tint the sun-kissed hills at dawn, give red to the rose, green
+to the leaves, yellow to the sunflowers, and the varied colors of baby
+blue-eyes, violets, portulacas, poppies, and cacti; where He concluded
+to distribute color throughout His world instead of making it all
+sombre in grays or black.
+
+Look! here is a vast flat of alkali, pure, dazzling white, shining
+like a vivid and horrible leprosy in the noon-day sun; close by is an
+area of volcanic action where a veritable "tintaro"--inkstand--has
+overflowed in devastating blackness over miles and miles. There are
+pits of six hundred feet depth full of black gunpowder-like substance,
+gardens of hellish cauliflowers and cabbages of forbidding black lava,
+and tunnels arched and square of pure blackness. Yonder is a mural
+face a half thousand feet high and two hundred or more miles long. It
+is nearly a hundred miles away, yet it reveals the rich glowing red of
+its walls, and between it and us are large "blotches" of pinks, grays,
+greens, reds, chocolates, carmines, crimsons, browns, yellows, olives,
+in every conceivable shade, and all blending in a strange and grotesque
+yet attractive manner, and fascinating while it awes. It is seldom one
+can see a rainbow lengthened out into flatness and then petrified; yet
+you can see it here. Few eyes have ever beheld a sunset painted on a
+desert's sands, yet all may see it here.
+
+It is a desert, surely, yet throughout its entire width flows a monster
+river; a fiendish, evil-souled river; a thievish, murderous river; a
+giant vampire, sucking the life-blood from thousands of square miles
+of territory and making it all barren, desolate, desert. And this
+vampire river has vampire children which emulate their mother in their
+insatiable thirst. Remorselessly they suck up and carry away all the
+moisture that would make the land "blossom as the rose," and thus add
+misery to desolation, devastation to barrenness.
+
+It is a desert, surely, yet planted in its dreary wastes are
+verdant-clad mountains, on whose summits winter's snows fall and
+accumulate, and in whose bosoms springs of life are harbored.
+
+It is a desert, surely, yet it is fringed here and there with dense
+forests, and in the very heart of its direst desolation threads of
+silvery streams lined with greenish verdure seem to give the lie to the
+name.
+
+It is desert, barren, inhospitable, dangerous, yet thousands of people
+make it their chosen home. Over its surface roam the Bedouins of the
+United States, fearless horsemen, daring travellers, who rival in
+picturesqueness, if not in evil, their compeers of the deserts by the
+Nile. Down in the deep canyon water-ways of the desert-streams dwell
+other peoples whose life is as strange, weird, wild, and fascinating as
+that of any people of earth.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE HEART OF THE PETRIFIED FOREST.]
+
+This is the region and these the people I would make the American
+reader more familiar with. Other books have been written on the Painted
+Desert. One was published a few years ago, written by a clever American
+novelist, and published by one of America's leading firms, and I
+read it with mingled feelings of delight and half anger. It was so
+beautifully and charmingly written that one familiar with the scenes
+depicted could not fail to enjoy it, although indignant--because of the
+errors that might have been avoided. It claims only to be fiction. Yet
+the youth of the land reading it necessarily gain distinct impressions
+of fact from its pages. These "facts" are, unfortunately, so far from
+true that they mislead the reader. It would have been a comparatively
+slight task for the author to have consulted government records and
+thus have made his references to geography and ethnology correct.
+
+It is needless, I hope, for me to say I have honestly endeavored to
+avoid the method here criticised. The bibliography incorporated as part
+of this book will enable the diligent student to consult authorities
+about this fascinating region.
+
+But now comes an important question. What are the boundaries of the
+Painted Desert? I am free to confess I do not know, nor do I think any
+one else does. The Spaniards never attempted to bound it, and no one
+since has ever had the temerity to do so. In Ives's map of the region
+he endeavored to explore, and of which he wrote so hopelessly, he
+places the Painted Desert in that ill-defined way that geographers used
+to follow in suggesting the location of the Great American Desert.
+
+The _conditions_ of color and barrenness that first suggested the name
+exist over a large area; you find them in the plateaus of southern
+Utah and the wild wastes of southern Nevada; they exist in much of New
+Mexico and southwestern Colorado. In Arizona if you sweep around north,
+west, south, and east, they are there. Northward--in the cliffs and
+ravines of the Grand Canyon country, in Blue Canyon, in the red mesas,
+the coal deposits, and in the lava flows around the San Francisco
+Mountains; westward--in the wild mountains and wilder deserts that
+lead to the crossings of the Colorado River, past the craters, lava
+flows, Calico Mountains, and Mohave Desert of the country adjoining the
+Santa Fé Route, and the Salton Sea, mud volcanoes, purple cliffs, and
+tawny sands of the Colorado Desert of the Sunset Route of the Southern
+Pacific; southward--in the Red Rock country, Sunset Pass, the meteorite
+beds of Canyon Diablo, the great cliffs of the Mogollon Plateau, the
+Tonto Basin, the Verdi Valley, and away down, over the Hassayampa,
+through the Salt River Valley, past the Superstition and other purple
+and variegated mountains, into the heart of northern Mexico itself;
+eastward--to the Petrified Forest, across into New Mexico to Mount
+San Mateo, by the cliffs, craters, lava flows, alkali flats, gorges
+and ravines of the Zuni Mountain country and as far as the Rio Grande
+at Albuquerque, where the basalt is scattered about in an irregular
+way, as if the molten stuff had been washed over the country from
+some titanic bucket, and left to lie in great inky blots over the
+bright-colored soils and clays.
+
+To me, _all this_ is Painted Desert region, for much of it is painted
+and much is desert. Indeed, if one Painted Desert were to be staked off
+in any one of the above named States, ten others, equally large, could
+be found in the remaining ones.
+
+It is a wonderful region viewed from any standpoint. Scenic! It is
+unrivalled for uniqueness, contrasts, variety, grandeur, desolateness,
+and majesty. Geologic! The student may here find in a few months what a
+lifetime elsewhere cannot reveal. Artistic! The artist will find it his
+rapture and his despair. Archæologic! Ruins everywhere, cavate, cliff,
+and pueblo dwellings, waiting for investigation, and, doubtless, scores
+as yet undiscovered. Ethnologic! Hopi, Wallapai, Havasupai, Navaho,
+Apache, and the rest; with mythologies as fascinating and complex
+as those of old Greece; with histories that lose themselves in dim
+legend and tradition, and that tell of feuds and wars, massacres and
+conflicts, that extend over centuries.
+
+In the first chapter I have briefly named some of the wonders and
+marvels of this fascinating land, and though in barest outline, "the
+half has not been told."
+
+It will be noticed that I have not rigidly adhered to the subjects as
+indicated by the heads of the chapters. I have preferred a discursive
+rather than a rigid style, for I deem it will prove itself the more
+interesting to the generality of my readers, and I merely call
+attention to it so that my critics may know it is not done without
+intent.
+
+Of the Indians of this region I have room to write of four tribes
+only, viz., the Hopi, the Navaho, the Wallapai, and the Havasupai. Of
+the former much has been written in late years, owing to the interest
+centred in their thrilling religious ceremony, the Snake Dance. Of the
+Navaho considerable is known, but of the Wallapai and Havasupai there
+is little known and less written. Indeed, of the Wallapai there is
+nothing in print except the brief and cursory remarks of travellers,
+and the reports of the teachers of the recently established schools
+to the Indian Department. No one is better aware than myself of the
+incomplete and fragmentary character of what I have written, but this
+book is issued, as others that have preceded it from my pen, in accord
+with my desire to place in compact form for the general reader reliable
+accounts of places and peoples in the United States hitherto known only
+to the explorer and scientist.
+
+To all the writers of the United States Bureau of Ethnology and the
+Smithsonian Institution, as well as those of other departments of the
+Government who have written on the region, I gratefully acknowledge
+many indebtednesses, especially to Powell, Fewkes, Matthews, Stephen,
+Hodge, Hough, Hrdlicka, Cushing, and Shufeldt.
+
+To those who know the persistency and conscientiousness of my labors
+in my chosen field, and the pains I take both by observation and
+from the works of authorities to gain accurate knowledge, and my
+_over_-willingness to acknowledge by pen and voice those to whom I am
+indebted, it will not be necessary to state that I have endeavored to
+make this book a standard. If I have failed to give credit where it was
+due, I do so now with an open heart.
+
+For the kindly reception my work in the printed page and on the
+platform has received in the past I hereby express my grateful
+acknowledgments.
+
+ GEORGE WHARTON JAMES.
+
+ AUTHOR AMPHITHEATRE,
+ BASS CAMP,
+ GRAND CANYON, ARIZONA.
+
+
+
+
+_THE INDIANS OF THE
+Painted Desert Region_
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE PAINTED DESERT REGION
+
+
+Civilization and barbarism obtrude themselves delightfully at every
+turn in this Wonderland of the American Southwest, called the Painted
+Desert Region.
+
+Ancient and modern history play you many a game of hide-and-seek as you
+endeavor to trace either one or the other in a study of its aboriginal
+people; you look upon a ceremony performed to-day and call it modern.
+In reality it is of the past, so old, so hoary with antiquity that even
+to the participants it has lost its origin and much of its meaning.
+
+History--exciting, thrilling, tragic--has been made in the Painted
+Desert Region; was being made centuries before Leif Ericson landed on
+the shores of Vinland, or John and Sebastian Cabot sailed from Bristol.
+History that was ancient and hoar when the band of pilgrims from Leyden
+battled with the wild waves of the Atlantic's New England shore, and
+was lapsing into sleepiness before the guns of the minute-men were
+fired at Lexington or Allen had fallen at Bunker Hill.
+
+In the Painted Desert Region we find peoples strange, peculiar, and
+interesting, whose mythology is more fascinating than that of ancient
+Greece, and, for aught we know to the contrary, may be equally ancient;
+whose ceremonies of to-day are more elaborate than those of a devout
+Catholic, more complex than those of a Hindoo pantheist, more weird
+than those of a howling dervish of Turkestan.
+
+Peoples whose origin is as uncertain and mysterious as the ancients
+thought the source of the Nile; whose history is unknown except in the
+fantastic, though stirring and improbable stories told by the elders
+as they gather the young men around them at their mystic ceremonies,
+and in the traditional songs sung by their high priests during the
+performance of long and exhausting worship.
+
+Peoples whose government is as simple, pure, and perfect as that of the
+patriarchs, and possibly as ancient, and yet more republican than the
+most modern government now in existence. Peoples whose women build and
+own the houses, and whose men weave the garments of the women, knit the
+stockings of their own wear, and are as expert with needle and thread
+as their ancestors were with bow and arrow, obsidian-tipped spear, or
+stone battle-axe.
+
+Here live peoples of peace and peoples of war; wanderers
+and stay-at-homes; house-builders and those who scorn fixed
+dwelling-places; poets whose songs, like those of blind Homer and
+the early Troubadors, were never written, but enshrined only in the
+hearts of the race; artists whose paints are the brilliant sands of
+many-colored mountains, and whose brushes are their own deft fingers.
+
+[Illustration: A FREAK OF EROSION IN THE PETRIFIED FOREST.]
+
+[Illustration: JOURNEYING OVER THE PAINTED DESERT TO THE HOPI SNAKE
+DANCE.]
+
+Its modern history begins about three hundred and fifty years ago
+when one portion of it was discovered by a negro slave, whose amorous
+propensities lured him to his death, and the other by a priest, of whom
+one writer says his reports were "so disgustful in lyes and wrapped up
+in fictions that the Light was little more than Darkness."
+
+Of its ancient history who can more than guess? To most questions it
+remains as silent as the Sphinx. The riddle of the Sphinx, though, is
+being solved, and so by the careful and scientific work of the Bureau
+of Ethnology, the riddles of the prehistoric life of our Southwest,
+slowly but surely, are being resolved.
+
+One of the countries comprised in the Painted Desert Region is the
+theme of an epic, Homerian in style if not in quality, full of wars
+and rumors of wars, storming of impregnable citadels, and the recitals
+of deeds as brave and heroic as those of the Greeks at Marathon or
+Thermopylæ; a poem recently discovered, after having remained buried in
+the tomb of oblivion for over two hundred years.
+
+Here are peoples of stupendous religious beliefs. Peoples who can
+truthfully be designated as the most religious of the world; yet
+peoples as agnostic and sceptic, if not as learned, as Hume, Voltaire,
+Spencer, and Ingersoll. Peoples to whom a written letter is witchcraft
+and sorcery, and yet who can read the heavens, interpret the writings
+of the woods, deserts, and canyons with a certainty never failing and
+unerring. Peoples who twenty-five years ago stoned and hanged the
+witches and wizards they sincerely thought cursed them, and who, ten
+years ago hanged, and perhaps even to-day, though secretly, hang one
+another on a cross as an act of virtue and religious faith, after
+cruelly beating themselves and one another with scourges of deadly
+cactus thorns.
+
+Here are intelligent farmers, who, for centuries, have scientifically
+irrigated their lands, and yet who cut off the ears of their burros to
+keep them from stealing corn.
+
+A land it is of witchcraft and sorcery, of horror and dread of ghosts
+and goblins, of daily propitiation of Fates and Powers and Princes
+of Darkness and Air at the very thought of whom withering curses and
+blasting injuries are sure to come.
+
+Here dwell peoples who dance through fierce, flaming fires, lacerate
+themselves with cactus whips, run long wearisome races over the
+scorching sands of the desert, and handle deadly rattlesnakes with
+fearless freedom, as part of their religious worship.
+
+Peoples who pray by machinery as the Burmese use their prayer wheels,
+and who "plant" supplications as a gardener "plants" trees and shrubs.
+
+Peoples to whom a smoking cigarette is made the means of holy
+communion, the handling of poisonous reptiles a sacred and solemn act
+of devotion, and the playing with dolls the opportunity for giving
+religious instruction to their children.
+
+Peoples who are pantheists, sun worshippers, and snake dancers, yet who
+have churches and convents built with incredible labor and as extensive
+as any modern cathedral.
+
+Peoples whose conservatism in manners and religion surpass that of the
+veriest English tories; who, for hundreds of years, have steadily and
+successfully resisted all efforts to "convert" and change them, and
+who to-day are as firm in their ancient faiths as ever. Peoples whom
+Spanish conquistadors could not tame with matchlock, pike, and machete,
+nor United States forces with Gatling gun, rifle, and bayonet.
+
+Peoples to whom fraternal organizations and secret societies, for men
+and women alike, are as ancient as the mountains they inhabit, whose
+lodge rooms are more wonderful, and whose signs and passwords more
+complex than those of any organization of civilized lands and modern
+times.
+
+Peoples industrious and peoples studiously lazy, honest and able in
+thievery, truthful and consummate liars, cleanly and picturesquely
+dirty, interesting and repulsively loathsome, charming and artistically
+hideous, religious and cursedly wicked, peaceful and unceasingly
+warlike, lovers of home and haters of fixed habitations.
+
+Here are peoples who dwell upon almost inaccessible cliffs, peoples of
+the clouds, and, on the other hand, peoples who dwell in canyon depths,
+where stupendous walls, capable of enclosing Memphis, Thebes, Luxor,
+Karnak, and all the ruins of ancient Egypt, are the boundaries of their
+primitive residences.
+
+The Painted Desert Region is a country where rattlesnakes are washed,
+prayed over, caressed, carried in the mouth, and placed before and on
+sacred altars in religious worship.
+
+Where the worship of the goddess of reproduction with all its
+phallic symbolism is carried on in public processionals, dances, and
+ceremonials by men, women, maidens, and children without shameful
+self-consciousness, yet where dire penalties, even unto mutilation and
+death, are visited upon the unchaste.
+
+Where polygamy has been as openly practised as in the days of Abraham,
+and possibly from as early a time, and where to-day it is as common
+to see a man who, openly, has two or more wives, as in civilized lands
+it is common to see him with but one. And yet it is a land in which
+polygamy is expressly forbidden by United States law, and where numbers
+of arrests have been made for violation of that law.
+
+Where religious rites are performed, so mystic and ancient that their
+meaning is unknown even to the most learned of those who partake in
+them.
+
+Indeed, the Painted Desert Region, though a part of the United States
+of America, is a land of peoples strange, unique, complex, diverse,
+and singular as can be found in any similar area on the earth, and the
+physical contour of the country is as strange and diverse as are the
+peoples who inhabit it.
+
+It is a land of gloriously impressive mountains, crowned with the snows
+of blessing and bathed in a wealth of glowing colors, changing hues,
+and tender tints that few other countries on earth can boast.
+
+On its eastern outskirt is a portion of one of the largest cretaceous
+monoclines in the world, and near by is a natural inkstand, half a mile
+in circumference, from which, centuries ago, flowed fiery, inky lava
+which has now solidified in intensest blackness over hundreds of miles
+of surrounding country.
+
+It is a land of mountain-high plateaus, edged with bluffs, cliffs, and
+escarpments that delight the distant beholder with their richness of
+coloring and wondrous variety of outline, and thrill with horror those
+who unexpectedly stand on their brinks.
+
+It is a land of laziness and indifferent content, where everything
+is done "poco tiempo"--"in a little while"--and where "to-morrow" is
+early enough for all laborious tasks, and yet a land of such tireless
+energy, never-ceasing work, and arduous labor as few countries else
+have ever known.
+
+A land where people live in refinement, education, and all the luxuries
+of twentieth-century civilization side by side with peoples whose
+dress, modes of living, habits of eating and sleeping, styles of food
+and cookery are similar to those of the subjects of Boadicea and
+Caractacus.
+
+In the Painted Desert Region the root of one dangerous-looking prickly
+cactus is used for soap, and the fruit of another for food.
+
+Here horses dig for water, and mules are stimulated by whiskey to draw
+their weighty loads over torrid deserts and up mountain steeps.
+
+It is a land of ruins, desolate and forlorn, buried and forgotten,
+with histories tragic, bloody, romantic; ruins where charred timbers,
+ghastly bones, and demolished walls speak of midnight attacks,
+treacherous surprises, and cruel slaughters; where whole cities have
+been exterminated and destroyed as if under the ancient commands to the
+Hebrews: "Destroy, slay, kill, and spare not."
+
+A desert country, and yet, in spots, marvellously fertile. Barren,
+wild, desolate, forsaken it is, and yet, here and there, fertile
+valleys, wooded slopes, and garden patches may be found as rich as any
+on earth.
+
+Where atmospheric colorings are so perfect and so divinely artistic in
+their applications that weary and desolate deserts are made dreams of
+glory and supremest beauty, and harsh rugged mountains are sublimated
+into transcendent pictures of tender tints and ever-changing but always
+harmonious combinations of color.
+
+A land where rain may be seen falling in fifty showers all around,
+and yet not a drop fall, _for a year or more_, on the spot where the
+observer stands.
+
+A land of sculptured images and fantastic carvings. Where water,
+wind, storm, sand, frost, heat, atmosphere, and other agencies,
+unguided and uncontrolled by man, have combined to make figures more
+striking, more real, more picturesque, more ugly, more beautiful,
+and more fantastic than those of the angels, devils, saints, and
+sinners that crown and adorn the ancient Pagan shrines of the Orient
+and the more modern Christian shrines of the Occident;--a veritable
+Toom-pin-nu-wear-tu-weep--Land of the Standing Rocks--more gigantic,
+wonderful, and attractive than can be found elsewhere in the world.
+
+Where sand mountains, yielding alike to the fierce winds of winter
+and the gentle breezes of summer, slowly travel from place to place,
+irresistibly controlling fresh sites and burying all that obstructs
+their path.
+
+A land where, in summer, railway trains are often stopped by drifting
+sands blown by scorching winds over almost trackless Saharas, and
+where, in winter, the same trains are stopped by drifting snows blown
+over the same Saharas now made Arctic in their frozen solitude.
+
+A land where once were vast lakes in which disported ugly monsters, and
+on the surface of which swam mighty fish-birds who gazed with curious
+wonder upon the enormous reptiles, birds, and animals which came to
+lave themselves in the cooling waves or drink of their refreshing
+waters.
+
+But now lakes, fishes, reptiles, and animals have entirely disappeared.
+Where placid lakes once were lashed into fury by angry winds are now
+only sand wastes and water-worn rocks where the winds howl and shriek
+and rave, and mourn the loss of the waters with which they used to
+sport; and the only remnants of prehistoric fishes, reptiles, and
+animals are found in decaying bones or fossilized remains deep imbedded
+in the strata of the unnumbered ages.
+
+[Illustration: ANCIENT POTTERY DUG FROM PREHISTORIC RUINS ON THE
+PAINTED DESERT.]
+
+A land where volcanic fires and fierce lava flows, accompanied by
+deadly fumes, noxious gases, and burning flames, have made lurid the
+midnight skies, and driven happy people from their peaceful homes.
+
+A land through which a mighty river dashes madly and unrestrainedly to
+the sea, and yet where, a few miles away, a spring that flows a few
+buckets of water an hour is an inestimable treasure. Yes indeed, where,
+in sight of that giant river, thirsty men have gone raving mad for want
+of water, and have hurled themselves headlong down thousand-feet-high
+precipices in their uncontrolled desire to reach the precious and
+cooling stream.
+
+A land of rich and florid coloring where the Master Artist has revelled
+in matchless combinations. It is a land of color,--sweet, gentle,
+tender colors that penetrate the soul as the words of a lover; fierce,
+glaring, bold colors that strike as with the clenched fist of a foe.
+
+It is the stage upon which the bronze and white actors of three hundred
+and fifty years ago played their games of life with ambitions, high as
+they were selfish, determined as they were bold, and unscrupulous as
+they were successful.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+DESERT RECOLLECTIONS
+
+
+Of the flora and fauna of the Painted Desert Region I have made no
+study. That they are fascinating the works of Hart Merriam, Coville,
+Lemmon, Hough, and others of later days, and of the specialists of
+the earlier government surveys, abundantly testify. There are cacti
+of varieties into the hundreds, sagebrush, black and white grama,
+bunch grass, salt grass, hackberry, buck-brush, pines, junipers,
+spruces, cottonwoods, and willows, besides a thousand flowering plants.
+There are lizards, swifts, rattlesnakes, scorpions, Gila monsters,
+vinegerones, prairie dogs, hedgehogs, turtles, squirrels, cottontail
+and jack-rabbits, antelope, deer, mountain sheep, wildcats, and some
+bear.
+
+It is more of its physiographic conditions in a general way, however,
+that I would here write.
+
+Most people's conception of a desert is a flat, level place of
+nothing but sand. It is sand instead of water; a desert instead of
+an ocean. Few deserts conform to this conception,--none, indeed,
+that I know of in the boundaries of the United States. This Painted
+Desert Region is wonderfully diversified. There is sand, of course,
+but much rock, many trees, more canyons, some mountains and lava
+flows, extinct volcanoes, forests, and pastures. The Grand Canyon runs
+across its northern borders, and it is the vampire river that flows
+in that never-to-be-described water-way that drains away the water
+which leaves this the desert region it is; for the Colorado has many
+tributaries, and tributaries of tributaries,--the Little Colorado,
+Havasu (Cataract) Creek, Canyon Padre, Canyon Diablo, Walnut Creek, Oak
+Creek, Willow Creek, Diamond Creek, and a score or hundred others.
+
+Its great mountains are the San Francisco range, on the shoulders
+of which Flagstaff is located, Mount San Mateo, seen from the Santa
+Fé train near Grants in New Mexico, and Williams Mountain, west of
+Flagstaff, at the foot of which the railway traveller will see the town
+of Williams.
+
+Near Flagstaff are a number of extinct volcanoes and great masses of
+lava flow; from the train at Blue Water to the right a few miles one
+may see the crater Tintaro--the Inkstand. The Zuni Mountains have many
+craters, chief of which is the Agua Fria crater, and lava flows from
+the Zuni Mountains and Mount San Mateo meet in the valley, and one
+rides alongside them for miles coming west beyond Laguna.
+
+South of Canyon Diablo is a wonderful meteoritic mountain, the
+explanation of whose existence the scientists have not yet determined.
+From Peach Springs a large meteoric rock was sent to the Smithsonian,
+and I have one dug out of a hole of its own making in the Zuni
+Mountains, both of which weigh upwards of a ton.
+
+To the east of the Canyon Diablo Mountain is Sunset Pass, familiar
+to the readers of Gen. Charles King's thrilling Arizona stories, and
+beyond it to the south are Hell's Canyon,--which does not belie its
+name,--the Verdi Valley, and the interesting Red Rock Country, where
+numerous cliff and cavate dwellings have recently been discovered and
+explored by Dr. Fewkes.
+
+Indeed, this whole region is one of cliff and cavate and other
+forsaken dwellings. Everywhere one meets with them. Desert mounds, on
+examination, prove to be sites of long-buried cities, and hundreds, nay
+thousands of exquisite vessels of clay, decorated in long-forgotten
+ways, have been dug up from them and sent to grace the shelves of
+museums and speak of a people long since crumbled to dust.
+
+The miner has found it a profitable field for his operations, the
+Jerome and Congress, with the Old Vulture and similar mines, having
+made great fortunes for their owners. More than half our knowledge of
+the country came primarily from the daring and courageous prospectors
+who risked its dangers and deaths in their search for gold.
+
+The roads in the Painted Desert are long and tedious, and the horses
+drag their weary way over the scorching sands, the wheels of the wagon
+sinking in, as does also the heart of the sensitive rider who sees the
+efforts the poor beasts are making to obey his will. Yet the animals
+seldom sweat. Such is the rapid radiation of moisture in this dry, high
+atmosphere that one never sees any of the sweat and lather so common to
+hard-driven horses in lower altitude.
+
+The food question for horses is often serious if one goes far from the
+beaten path of traders or Indians. A desert is not a pasture, though
+its scant patches of grass often have to serve for one. The general
+custom, where possible, is to carry a small amount of grain, which is
+fed sparingly night and morning. The horses are hobbled and turned
+loose in as good pasture as can be found. Hence the first questions
+asked when determining a camping place are, "What kind of pasture
+and water does it possess?" There are times when one dare not run the
+risk of turning the horses loose. Thirsty beyond endurance, they will
+often travel all night, even though closely hobbled, back to where the
+last water was secured. Then they must be tracked back, and no more
+exhausting and disheartening occupation do I know than this.
+
+On one occasion we were compelled to camp where there was little
+pasturage. It rained, and there were two ladies in my party. The
+covered wagon was emptied and their blankets rolled down in it, so that
+they could be in shelter. Our driver was a German named Hank. Two of
+"his horses were mules," and these were tied one to each of the front
+wheels. The two real horses were tied to the rear wheels. During the
+night "Pete," one of the mules, got his fore legs over the pole of
+the wagon, and began to tug and pull so that the ladies were afraid
+the vehicle might be overturned. Calling to Hank, the poor fellow was
+compelled to get out of his blankets and in the rain go to Pete's
+rescue. To their intense amusement the ladies heard him remonstrating
+with the refractory mule, and almost exploded when he wound up his
+remonstrances, hitherto couched in quiet and dignified language, "Pete,
+you are von little tefel."
+
+Some people do not like to hobble a horse, and so they picket him.
+There are different ways of "picketing" a horse. He may be tied by the
+halter to a bush, tree, wagon, or stake driven into the ground. But
+these methods are fraught with danger. I once had a valuable horse
+at a time when Dr. Joseph LeConte, the beloved professor of geology
+of the University of California, was spending a month with me in the
+mountains. We had six horses, and all were "picketed" from the halter,
+or a rope around the neck. Three times a day we changed them to fresh
+pasturage. At one of the changing times we found the beautiful black
+stretched out cold and stiff. In scratching his head the hoof of his
+hind foot had caught in the rope, and in seeking to free himself he had
+pulled the rope tighter and tighter until he had strangled himself. The
+gentle-hearted professor sat down and wept at the tragic end of the
+noble horse "Duke" he had already learned to love.
+
+To prevent this danger I have often picketed a horse's hind foot to a
+log heavy enough to drag, so that the hungry animal could move a little
+in search of food, but not run or get far away. There have been two
+or three times, however, in my experience, where I could find neither
+tree, bush, nor stake. Not a rock or log could be found for miles to
+which the saddle horse I rode could be picketed. What then could I do?
+Sit up all night to care for my horse? Ride all night? Or do as I heard
+of one or two men having done, viz., picket the horse to my own foot? I
+once heard of a man who was dragged to his death that way. His cayuse
+was startled during the night and started to run. As the rope tightened
+and he dragged the unhappy wretch attached to him, his fear increased
+his speed, and not until he was exhausted and breathless did he stop in
+his wild, mad race. He was found with the corpse, bruised and mangled
+beyond all recognition, still dragging at the end of the rope.
+
+I had no desire to run such risk. So I did the impossible,--picketed my
+horse to a hole in the ground.
+
+"Nonsense! Picket a horse to a hole in the ground? It can't be done!"
+
+Indeed! But I did it. Watch me. Cut into the ground (especially if it
+is a little grassy) and make a hole a little larger than to allow your
+full fist to enter. As you dig deeper widen the hole below so that it
+is a kind of a chimney towards the top. Dig fully a foot or a foot and
+a half down. Then take the rope, which is already fastened at the other
+end to your horse, wrap the end around a piece of grass, or paper, or
+a small stone, or anything; put the knot into the hole, and "tamp" in
+the earth as vigorously as you can. Your horse is then fast, unless he
+grows desperately afraid and pulls with more than ordinary vigor.
+
+The scarcity of water makes journeying on the Painted Desert a grave
+and serious problem. The springs are few and far between, and only in
+the rainy season can one rely upon stony or clay pockets that fill up
+with the precious fluid. In going from Canyon Diablo to Oraibi there
+are four places where water may be obtained. First in a small canyon a
+few miles west of Volz's Crossing of the Little Colorado; then at the
+Lakes,--small ponds of dirty, stagnant water, where a trading-post is
+located and where the journey is generally broken for a night. Next
+day, twenty-two miles must be driven to Little Burro Spring before
+water is again found, and a few miles further on, on the opposite
+side of the valley, is Big Burro Spring. Then no more water is found
+until Oraibi is reached. There are two springs on the western side of
+the Oraibi mesa, and three miles on the eastern side in the Oraibi
+Wash is a good well, some sixty feet deep, of cold and good but not
+over-clear water. There are small pools near Mashonganavi, Shipauluvi,
+and Shungopavi, but the water is poor at best and very limited in
+quantity to those who are used to the illimitable flow of ordinary
+Eastern cities. The whole water supply at Mashonganavi, which is by far
+the best watered town of the middle mesa, would not more than suffice
+for the needs of a New York or Boston family of six or eight persons,
+and consternation would sit upon the face of the mistress of either
+household if such water were to flow through the faucets of her home.
+
+At Walpi there are three pool springs on the west side, but all flow
+slowly. One is good (for the desert), another is fair, and the third is
+horrible. Yet this last is almost equal to the supply on the eastern
+side, where there are three pool springs, only two of which can be used
+for domestic purposes.
+
+Storms fearful and terrible often sweep across this desert region. I
+have "enjoyed" several notable experiences in them, storms of sand, of
+rain, of wind, of lightning, and of thunder, sometimes one kind alone,
+other times of a combination of kinds. At one time we were camped in
+the Oraibi Wash not far from the home of the Mennonite missionary,
+my friend Rev. H. R. Voth. There were seven of us in my party,--five
+men, two women. Our general custom on making a camp was first of all
+to choose the best place for the beds of the ladies, and then the men
+arranged their blankets in picturesque irregularity around them at
+some distance away, thus forming a complete guard, not because of any
+necessity, but to make the ladies feel less timid. As my daughter was
+one of the ladies, I invariably rolled out my blankets near enough to
+be called readily should there be any occasion during the night.
+
+We had not been in our blankets long, that night, before a fearful
+thunder and rain-storm burst upon us. We had all gone to bed tired
+after our long and weary day watching the Hopi ceremonies, and the camp
+equipage was not prepared for a storm. It was pitch dark except for the
+sharp flashes of lightning which occasionally cut the blackness into
+jagged sections, and the deluge of rain waited for no squeamishness on
+my part. Hastily jumping up, I ran to and fro in my bare feet and night
+garments, caught up a big wagon sheet, and endeavored to spread it
+over the exposed beds of the ladies. The wind was determined I should
+not succeed, but I am English and obstinate. So I seized camera cases,
+valises, boxes of canned food, and anything heavy, and placed them
+upon the edges of the flapping canvas. Running back and forth to the
+wagon, the lightning every now and again revealed a drenched, fantastic
+figure, and I could hear suppressed laughter and giggles from under the
+blankets whence should have issued songs of thankfulness to me. But "it
+was ever thus!" I succeeded finally in pinning down the canvas, and had
+just rolled my wet and shivering form in my own drenched blankets, when
+Mr. Voth, with a lantern in his hand, came and simply demanded that
+the ladies come over to warmth and shelter in his hospitable house.
+Hastily wrapping themselves up, they started, blown about by the wind
+and flaunted by the tempest. The sand made it harder still to walk, and
+out of breath and wildly dishevelled, they struggled up the bank of the
+Wash and were soon comfortably ensconsed indoors. Then, strange irony
+of events, the storm immediately ceased, the heavens cleared, the stars
+shone bright, the cool night air became delicious to the nostrils and
+tired bodies, and we who remained outside had a sleep as ineffably
+sweet as that of healthful babes, while the ladies sweltered and rolled
+and tossed with discomfort in the moist heat that had accumulated in
+the closed rooms.
+
+[Illustration: THE PAINTED DESERT NEAR THE LITTLE COLORADO RIVER.]
+
+[Illustration: ASLEEP, EARLY MORNING, ON THE PAINTED DESERT.]
+
+A few years later I was again at Oraibi, and strangely near the same
+camping place. This time my companions were W. W. Bass, whose early
+adventures have been recounted in my "In and Around the Grand Canyon,"
+a photographer, and a British friend of his who had stopped off in
+California on his way home from Japan. Mr. Britisher had contributed a
+small share towards the expenses of the expedition, but with insular
+ignorance he had presumed that his small mite would pay the expenses
+of the whole outfit for a long period. It must be confessed that we
+had had a most arduous trip. The Painted Desert had shown its ugly
+side from the very moment we left the railway. Four miles out we had
+been stopped by the most terrific and vivid lightning-storm it has
+ever been my good fortune to witness and to be scared half out of my
+wits with. At Rock Tanks we had another storm. We had been jolted
+and shaken on our way out to Hopi Point of the Grand Canyon, and had
+come so near to perishing for want of water that we fell on our knees
+and greedily drank the vilest liquid from an alkali pool, a standing
+place of horses, on our way to the Little Colorado. At the old Tanner
+Crossing of that stream we had had another rain and lightning-storm
+near unto the first in fury, and in which our British friend had
+been caught in his blankets and nearly frightened to death. In the
+Moenkopi Wash he was offended because I left the wagon to ride to
+the home and accept the hospitality of the Mormon bishop, which he
+interpreted again with insular ignorance to mean a palace, a place of
+luxury, exquisite restfulness, good foods, and delicious iced wines,
+while he was left to beans, bacon, flapjacks, and dried fruit, and a
+roll of blankets on the rough and uneven ground. (It didn't make any
+difference that I explained to him next day that I had slept on a
+grass plot with one quilt and no pillow, cold, shivering, and longing
+for my good substantial roll of Navaho blankets, left for him to use
+if he so desired, and that our "banquet" had been coarse bread and a
+bowl of milk.) Then we had had another storm at Toh-gas-je, which I
+had partially avoided by riding on ahead in the light wagon of the
+Indian agent who piloted us, while he--Mr. Britisher--was in the
+heavier ambulance. The next night we camped, attempting to sleep on
+the stony slopes of the hillside at Blue Canyon in wretchedness and
+misery, because it was too late when we arrived to dare to drive down
+into the canyon. The next day we drove over the Sahara of America, a
+sandy desert which even to the Hopis is the most a-tu-u-u (hot) of
+all earthly places. That noon we camped in the dry wash of Tnebitoh,
+where we had to dig for water, waiting for it slowly to seep into the
+hole we had dug. It was a sandy, alkaline decoction, but we were glad
+and thankful for it, and the way the poor horses stood and longingly
+looked on as we waited for the inflow was pitiable. At night we camped
+some twelve or fifteen miles farther on, without water, hobbling the
+horses and turning them loose. I had engaged an Indian to go with us
+from Blue Canyon as helper and guide, so I sent him, in the morning, to
+bring in the horses. Two or three hours later he returned, with but one
+of the animals, and said he had tried to track the others, but could
+not do so. Imagine what our predicament would have been, in the heart
+of the desert, without horses and water, and many miles away from any
+settlement. There was but one thing to be done, and Mr. Bass at once
+did it. Putting a bridle on the one horse, he rode off barebacked after
+the runaways. Knowing the character of his mules, he aimed directly
+for the Tnebitoh. When he arrived at the spot where we had watered
+the day before, he found that, with unerring instinct, the horses had
+returned to this spot and had dug new watering places for themselves.
+Then, scenting the cool grass of the San Francisco Mountains, they had
+aimed directly west, and, hobbled though they were, the tracks showed
+they were travelling at a lively rate of speed. Knowing the urgency and
+desperateness of our case, Bass followed as fast as he could make his
+almost exhausted animal go, and after an hour's hard riding saw, in the
+far-away distance, the three perverse creatures "hitting" the trailless
+desert as hard as they could. Jersey, a knowing mule, was in the lead.
+He soon saw Bass, and, seeming to communicate with the others, they
+turned and saw him also. Jack (the other mule) and the horse at once
+showed a disposition to stop, but Jersey with bite and whinney tried to
+drive them on. Finding his efforts useless, he stopped with the others,
+and, when Bass rode up, allowed himself to be "necked" (tied neck to
+neck) with the other two. Horses and man were as near "played out" as
+we cared to see them when, later in the day, they returned to camp.
+
+It does not do to go out upon the Painted Desert without some practical
+person who is capable of meeting all serious emergencies that are
+likely to arise.
+
+The next day we drove on to Oraibi, in the scorching sun, over the
+sandy hillocks, where no road would last an hour in a wind-storm
+unless it were thoroughly blanketed and pegged down. We were all hot,
+weary, and ill-tempered. Thinking to help out, I volunteered to walk
+up the steep western trail to the mesa top and secure some corn at
+Oraibi for our horses, so that they could be fed at once on reaching
+our stopping place on the east side. When we started I had suggested
+the hope that we might be able to stop in the schoolhouse below the
+Oraibi mesa, as I had several times done in times before; but when
+the wagon arrived there, and I came down from the mesa, it was found
+to be already occupied by persons to whom it had been promised by the
+Indian agent. Camping, then, was the only thing left open to us, until
+I could see the Hopis and rent one of their houses. Down we drove to
+the camp, where alone a sufficiency of water was to be found. This
+explains our close proximity to the camp of the earlier year. We were
+just preparing our meal when a fierce sand-storm blew up. Cooking was
+out of the question; the fire blew every which way, and the sand filled
+meat, beans, corn, tomatoes with too much grit for comfort. This was
+the last straw that broke the back of Mr. Britisher's complacency. He
+had bemoaned again and again the leaving of his comfortable home to
+come into this "God-forsaken region," in a quest of what our crazy
+westernism called pleasure, and now his fury burst upon me in a manner
+that dwarfed the passion of the heavens and the earth. While there
+was a refinement in his vituperation, there was an edge upon it as
+keen as fury, passion, and culture could give it. I was scorched by
+his scarifying lightnings, struck again and again by his vindictive
+thunderbolts, tossed hither and thither by his stormy winds, and
+lifted heavenwards and then dashed downwards by the tornadoes and
+whirlwinds of his passion. It was dazzling, bewildering, intensely
+interesting, and then fiercely irritating. I stood it all until he
+denounced my selfishness. There's no doubt I am selfish, but there is a
+limit to a fellow's endurance when another fellow claims the discovery
+and rubs it in upon you until he abrades the skin. So I raised my hand
+and also my voice: "Stop, that's enough. Dare to repeat that and I'll
+tie you on a horse and send you back to the railway in charge of an
+Indian so quickly that you'll wonder how you got there. Selfish, am I?
+I permitted you to come on this trip as a favor to my photographer. The
+paltry sum you paid me has not found one-fourth share of the corn for
+one horse, let alone your own food, the hire of the horses, wagon, and
+driver. To oblige you I have allowed you the whole way to ride inside
+my conveyance that you might talk together, while I have sat out in the
+hot sun. If any help has been needed by Mr. Bass in driving, I have
+willingly given it instead of calling upon you. I have done all the
+unpacking and the packing of the wagon at each camp, morning, noon, and
+night. I have done all the cooking and much of the dish-washing, and
+yet you have the impudence and mendacity to say I have been selfish.
+Very well! I'll take myself at your estimate. In future I'll take my
+seat inside the ambulance; you shall do your share of helping the
+driver. You shall do your share of the packing; and if you eat another
+mouthful, so long as you remain in my camp, you shall cook it yourself.
+I have spoken! And when I thus speak I speak as the laws of the Medes
+and Persians, which alter not, nor change!"
+
+[Illustration: THE COLORADO RIVER AT BASS FERRY, THE VAMPIRE OF THE
+PAINTED DESERT.]
+
+"Well, ---- says you are selfish!" burst out the somewhat cowed man.
+
+"Then I put him on the same plane as I put you; and if ever either of
+you dares to make that charge again, I will--"
+
+Well, never mind what I, in my, what I still believe to be, just anger
+threatened. I turned away, went and secured an Indian's house, and that
+night we removed there.
+
+But I wish I had the space to recount how those two unfortunates and
+misfortunates cooked their own meals and mine and Bass's. It is a
+subject fit for a Dickens or a Kipling. No minor pen can do justice to
+it. How they came and asked with quiet humility, "What are we going
+to have for supper?" and how I replied, "Raw potatoes, so far as I am
+concerned!" Neither knew whether a frying-pan was for skimming cream
+from a can of condensed milk or for making charlotte russes. Neither
+could boil water without scorching it. But surreptitiously (with my
+secret connivance) Bass gave the tyros gentle hints and finally "licked
+them" into fourth-rate cooks, so that I reaped the reward of their
+labors in selfishly and shamelessly taking some of the concoctions they
+had slaved over.
+
+I know this plain, unvarnished tale reveals me a "bad man from Bodie,"
+but I started out to give a truthful account of the Painted Desert and
+its storms, and this "tempest in a frying-pan" in camp cannot well be
+ignored by a veracious chronicler.
+
+Last year, fate designed that we camp at exactly the same spot. The
+two wagons came to rest at about the same place where the ambulance
+stood, and exactly the same wind and sand-storm blew up before we had
+been there half an hour. I had with me a long, eight-feet-high strip of
+canvas belonging to a very large circular tent. To ward off the force
+of some part of the storm we stretched this canvas from the trunk of
+one cottonwood tree to another, and moved our camp to the sheltered
+side. That was an insult to the powers of the storm. The wind fairly
+howled with rage, and pulled and tugged and flapped that canvas in a
+perfect fury of anger. Then as we huddled in its shelter, a sudden jerk
+came, and up it was ripped, from top to bottom, in a moment, and the
+loose ends went wildly flying and flapping every way. In the blowing
+sand I fled with the ladies to Mr. Voth's ever-hospitable house, but
+it was as hot as--well! no matter--in there. Outside, the cottonwoods
+were bowed over in the fury of the wind, and the sand went flying by in
+sheets. It was easy then to understand the remark of one experienced in
+the ways of the Painted Desert Region: "If you ever buy any real estate
+here, contract to have it anchored, or you'll wake up some morning and
+find it all blown into the next county." The flying sand literally
+obliterated every object more than a few feet away.
+
+Now in this last case I had the pleasure--as peculiar a pleasure as it
+is to watch the coming of a hurricane at sea--to see the oncoming of
+this storm. We were enjoying perfect calm. Suddenly over the Oraibi
+mesa there came a great brown mass that stretched entirely across the
+country. It was the tawny sand risen in power and majesty to drive us
+from its lair. It was so grand, so sublime, so alive, that just as
+I instinctively rush to my camera at sight of an interesting face,
+I dashed towards it to secure a photograph of this new, gigantic,
+living manifestation. But in its fierce fury it swept upon us with such
+rapidity that I was too late. We were covered with it, buried in it.
+As darkness leaps upon one and absorbs him, so did this storm absorb
+us. In an hour or so its greatest fury subsided; then we thought we
+would build our camp-fire and proceed to our regular cooking. How the
+wind veered and changed, and changed again as soon as the fire began to
+ascend. That is a point to watch in building a camp-fire. Be sure and
+locate it so that its smoke won't blow upon you when you sit down to
+eat. In this case, however, it would not have mattered. In my notebook
+I read: "We have changed the camp-fire three times, and no matter where
+we put it, the smoke swoops down upon us. Even now while I write I am
+half blinded by the smoke, which ten minutes ago was being blown in the
+opposite direction." So that if these few pages have an unpleasant odor
+of camp-fire smoke about them, the reader must charge it to the wilful
+ways of the wind on the Painted Desert.
+
+Elsewhere I have spoken of the mystery brooding over the peoples of
+this land. It is also existent in the very colors of it, whether
+noted in early morning, in the glare of the pitiless Arizona noon, or
+at sunset; in the storm, with the air full of sand, or in the calm
+and quiet of a cloudless sky; when the sky is cerulean or black with
+lowering clouds; ever, always, the color is weird, strange, mysterious.
+One night at Walpi several of us sat and watched the colorings in the
+west. No unacquainted soul would have believed such could exist. To
+describe it is as impossible as to analyze the feelings of love. It was
+raining everywhere in the west; and "everywhere" means so much where
+one's horizon is not limited. The eye there roams over what seem to be
+boundless distances. In all this space rain was falling. The sun had
+but half an hour more to live, and it flooded the sky with an orange
+crimson. The rain came down in hairy streaks brilliantly illuminated.
+The sun could be discerned only as a dimly veiled face, with the light
+shed below it--none above--in graceful curves. Then the orange and
+crimson changed to purple, deepening and deepening into blackness until
+day was done.
+
+Sometimes the lighting up of the desert in the early morning gives it
+the effect of a sea-green ocean, and then the illusion is indescribably
+wonderful. At such times, if there are clouds in the sky, the
+reflections of color are as delicate and beautiful as the tintings of
+the sea-shells.
+
+One night standing on the mesa at Mashonganavi looking east and south,
+the vast ocean-like expanse of tawny sand and desert was converted by
+the hues of dying day into a gorgeous and resplendent sea of exquisite
+and delicate color. On the further side were the Mogollon Buttes,--the
+Giant's Chair, Pyramid Butte, and others,--with long walls, which,
+in the early morning black and forbidding, were now illumined and
+etherealized by the magic wand of sunset.
+
+If, however, one would know another of the marvellous charms of this
+Painted Desert Region let him see it in the early summer, after the
+first rains. This may be the latter part of June or in July and August.
+Then what a change! One seeing it for the first time would naturally
+exclaim in protest: "Desert? Why, this is a garden!"
+
+A thin and sparse covering of grass, but enough to the casual observer
+to relieve the whole land from the charge of barrenness; the black and
+white grama grasses, with their delicate shades of green; and a host of
+wild flowers of most exquisite colors in glorious combinations. Here
+masses of flaming marigolds and sunflowers; yonder patches of the white
+and purple tinted flowers of the jimson-weed, while its rich green
+leaves form a complete covering for the tawny sand or rocky desolation
+beneath. Here are larkspurs, baby blue-eyes, Indian's paint brush,
+daisies, lilies, and a thousand and one others, the purples, blues,
+reds, pinks, whites, and browns giving one a chromatic feast, none the
+less delightful because it is totally unexpected.
+
+Then who can tell of the glory of the hundreds of cacti in bloom, great
+prickly monsters, barrel shaped, cylindrical, lobe formed, and yet
+all picked out in the rarest, most dainty flowers the eye of man ever
+gazed upon? Look yonder at the "hosh-kon," one of the yucca family, a
+sacred plant to the Navahoes. Its dagger-like green leaves are crowned
+and glorified with the central stalk, around which cluster a thousand
+waxen white bells, and this one is only a beginning to the marvellous
+display of them we shall see as we ride along. The greasewood veils
+its normal ugliness in revivified leaves and a delicate flossy yellow
+bloom that makes it charming to the eye. Even the sagebrush attains to
+some charm of greenness, and where the juniper and cedar and pine lurk
+in the shades of some of the rocky slopes, the deepest green adds its
+never-ending comfort and delight to the scene.
+
+Yet you look in vain for the rivers, the creeks, the babbling brooks,
+the bubbling fountains, the ponds, that charm your eye in Eastern
+landscapes. Oh, for the Adirondacks,--the lakes and streams which
+abound on every hand. If only these could be transplanted into this
+desert to give their peculiar delights without any of their drawbacks,
+_then_ the Painted Desert Region would be the ideal land.
+
+It would never do to bring the Adirondack flies and gnats and
+mosquitoes; its hot, sultry nights and muggy, sweltering days. No!
+These we can do without. We would have its advantages, but with none of
+its disadvantages.
+
+How futile such wishes; how childish such longings! Each place
+is itself; and, for myself, I love the Painted Desert even in
+its waterlessness, its barrenness, and its desolation. Think of
+its stimulating altitude, its colors, its clear, cloudless sky,
+its glorious, divine stars, its delicious evening coolness, its
+never-disturbed solitudes, its speaking silences, its romances, its
+mysteries, its tragedies, its histories. These are some of the things
+that make the Painted Desert what it is--a region of unqualified
+fascination and allurement.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE HOPI
+
+
+Three great fingers of rock from a gigantic and misshapen hand, roughly
+speaking, pointing southward, the hand a great plateau, the fingers
+mesas of solid rock thrust into the heart of a sandy valley,--this
+is the home of the Hopi, commonly and wrongly termed the Moki. The
+fingers are from seven to ten miles apart, and a visitor can go from
+one finger-nail to another either by descending and ascending the steep
+trails zigzagged on the fingers' sides, or he can circle around on the
+back of the hand and thus in a round-about manner reach any one of the
+three fingers. These mesa fingers are generally spoken of as the first
+or east mesa, the second or middle mesa, and the third or west mesa.
+They gain their order from the fact that in the early days of American
+occupancy Mr. T. V. Keam established a trading-post in the canyon that
+bears his name, and this canyon being to the east of the eastern mesa,
+this mesa was reached first in order, the western mesa naturally being
+third.
+
+On the east mesa are three villages. The most important of all Hopi
+towns is Walpi, which occupies the "nail" of this first "finger." It is
+not so large as Oraibi, but it has always held a commanding influence,
+which it still retains. Half a mile back of Walpi is Sichumavi, and
+still further back Hano, or, as it is commonly and incorrectly called,
+Tewa.
+
+About seven miles--as the crow flies--to the west is the second or
+middle mesa, and here are Mashonganavi, Shipauluvi, and on an offshoot
+from this second mesa, separated from it by a deep, sand-filled ravine,
+is Shungopavi.
+
+Ten miles farther to the west is Oraibi, which marks the farthest
+western boundary of pueblo civilization.
+
+Oh! the pathos, the woe, the untold but clearly written misery
+of the centuries in these cliff-built houses of the mesas, these
+residences that are fortresses, these steep trail-approached and
+precipice-protected homes. In a desert land, surrounded by relentless,
+wary, and vigilant foes, ever fighting a hard battle with the adverse
+conditions of their environment, short of water, of firewood, and
+with food grown in the desert-rescued lands below where at any moment
+the ruthless marauder might appear, there is no wonder that almost
+every elderly face is seamed and scarred; furrowed deeply with the
+accumulated centuries of never-ceasing care. Mystery here seems at
+first to reign supreme. It stands and faces one as a Presence. It
+hovers and broods, and you feel it even in your sleep. The air is full
+of it. The very clouds here are mysterious. Who are these people?
+From whence came they? What is their destiny? What fearful battles,
+race hatreds, devastating wars, led them to make their homes on
+these inaccessible cliffs? How did they ever conceive such a mass of
+elaborate ceremonial as now controls them? Solitary and alone they
+appear, a vast question mark, viewed from every standpoint. Whichever
+way one looks at them a great query stares him in the face. They are
+the chief mystery of our country, an anachronism, an anomaly in our
+twentieth-century civilization.
+
+When we see the ruins of Egypt, India, Assyria, we look upon something
+that is past. Those peoples _were_: they pertain to the ages that are
+gone. Their mysteries are of lives lived in the dim ages of antiquity.
+But here are antique lives being lived in our own day; pieces of
+century-old civilizations transplanted, in time and place, and brought
+into our time and place; the past existent in the present; the lapse
+of centuries forgotten, and the days of thousands of years ago bodily
+transferred into our commercial, super-cultured, hyper-refined age.
+
+The approach to the first mesa from Keam's Canyon is through a sandy
+country, which, in places, is dry, desolate, and bare. But here and
+there are patches of ground upon which weeds grow to a great height,
+plainly indicating that with cultivation and irrigation good crops
+could be raised. As we leave the mouth of the canyon the singular
+character of this plateau province is revealed. To the south the sandy
+desert, in lonesome desolation, stretches away as far as the eye can
+reach, its wearisome monotony relieved only by the close-by corn-fields
+of the Hopis and the peculiar buttes of the Mogollons. With the sun
+blazing down upon it, its forbidding barrenness is appalling. Neither
+tree, shrub, blade of grass, animal, or human habitation is to be seen.
+The sand reflects the sun's rays in a yellow glare which is irritating
+beyond measure, and which seems as if it would produce insanity by its
+unchangeableness.
+
+To the right of us are the extremities of the sandstone plateaus, of
+which the Hopi mesas are the thrust out fingers. Here and there are
+breaks in the plateau which seem like openings into rocky canyons.
+Before us, ten or more miles away, is the long wall of the first mesa,
+its falling precipices red and glaring in the sun. Immense rocks of
+irregular shape lie about on its summit as if tumbled to and fro in
+some long-ago-forgotten frolic of prehistoric giants. Right before us,
+and at about the mid distances of the "finger" from the main plateau,
+the mesa wall is broken down in the form of a U-shaped notch or
+gap,--from which Walpi, "the place of the gap," obtains its name; and
+it is on the extremity of the mesa, beyond this notch, that the houses
+of the Hopi towns can now clearly be discerned. Just beyond the notch a
+little heap of houses, apparently of the same color as the mesa itself,
+appears. Then a little vacant space and another small heap, followed
+by another vacancy with a larger heap at the extreme end of the mesa.
+These heaps, beginning at the notch, are respectively Tewa, Sichumavi,
+and Walpi.
+
+Dotting the slopes of the talus at the foot of the mesa precipices are
+corn-fields, peach orchards, and corrals for burros, sheep, and goats.
+
+As we approach nearer we see that the first mesa is rapidly losing
+its distinctively Indian character. The policy of the United States
+Government, in its treatment of these Indians, is to induce them, so
+far as possible, to leave their mesa homes and reside in the valley
+nearer to their corn-fields. As their enemies are no longer allowed to
+molest them, their community life on these mesa heights is no longer
+necessary, and the time lost and the energy wasted in climbing up and
+down the steep trails could far better be employed in working in the
+fields, caring for their orchards, or attending to their stock. But
+while all this sounds well in theory, and on paper appears perfectly
+reasonable, it fails to take into consideration the influence of
+heredity and the personal passions, desires, and feelings of volitional
+beings. As a result, the government plan is not altogether a success.
+The Indian agents, however, have induced certain of the Hopis, by
+building houses for them, to consent to a partial abandonment of their
+mesa homes. Accordingly, as one draws nearer, he sees the stone houses
+with their red-painted corrugated-iron roofs, the schoolhouse, the
+blacksmith's shop, and the houses of the teachers, all of which speak
+significantly of the change that is slowly hovering over the Indian's
+dream of solitude and desolation.
+
+But after our camp is made and the horses sent out in the care of
+willing Indians to the Hopi pastures, we find that the trails to the
+mesa summit are the same; the glaring yellow sand is the same; the
+red and gray rocks are the same; the fleecy and dark clouds that
+occasionally appear at this the rainy time are the same; the glaring,
+pitiless sun with its infernal scorching is the same; and we respire
+and perspire and pant and struggle in our climb to the summit in the
+same old arduous fashion. Above, in Hano, Sichumavi, and Walpi, the
+pot-bellied, naked children, the lithe and active young men, the
+not unattractive, shapely, and kindly-faced young women, with their
+peculiar symbolic style of hair-dressing, the blear-eyed old men
+and women, the patient and stolid burros, the dim-eyed and pathetic
+captive eagles, the quaint terraced-houses with their peculiar
+ladders, grotesque chimneys, passageways, and funny little steps, are
+practically the same as they have been for centuries.
+
+There are two trails from the valley to the summit of the first mesa on
+the east side, one at the point, and three on the west side. We ascend
+by the northeastern trail, which, on reaching the "Notch" or "Gap,"
+winds close by an enclosure in which is found a large fossil, bearing a
+rude resemblance to a stone snake. All around this fossil, within the
+stone enclosure, are to be found "bahos," or prayer sticks, which have
+been brought by the devout as their offerings to the Snake Divinities.
+From time immemorial this shrine has been in existence, and no Hopi
+ever passes it without some offering to "Those Above," either in the
+form of a baho, a sprinkling of the sacred meal, the ceremonial smoking
+to the six cardinal points, or a few words of silent but none the less
+devout and earnest prayer.
+
+At the head of this trail is Hano, and from this pueblo we can gain
+a general idea of Hopi architecture, for, with differences in minor
+details, the general styles are practically the same. Where they
+gained their architectural knowledge it is hard to tell, and who they
+are is yet an unsolved problem. It is pretty generally conceded,
+however, that all the pueblo peoples of Arizona and New Mexico--of
+whom the Hopis are the most western--are the descendants of the race,
+or races, who dotted these territories and southern Colorado with
+ruins, and who are commonly known as the Cliff and Cave Dwellers. But
+this is thrusting the difficulty only a few generations, or scores of
+generations, further back. For we are at once compelled to the agnostic
+answer, "I don't know!" when asked who are the Cliff Dwellers. Who they
+are and whence they came are still problems upon which such patient
+investigators as J. Walter Fewkes is working. He has clearly confirmed
+the decision of Bancroft and others which affirmed the identity of
+the Cliff and Cave Dwellers with the Hopis and other pueblo-inhabiting
+Indians of the Southwest.
+
+[Illustration: HANO, (TEWA) FROM THE HEAD OF THE TRAIL.]
+
+Although of different linguistic stocks and religion, the homes of
+the pueblo Indians are very similar. Almost without exception the
+pueblos built on mesa summits are of sandstone or other rock, plastered
+with adobe mud brought up from the water-courses of the valley.
+Those pueblos that are located in the valley, on the other hand, are
+generally built of adobe.
+
+No one can doubt that the Indians chose these elevated mesa sites for
+purposes of protection. With but one or two almost inaccessible trails
+reaching the heights, and these easily defendable, their homes were
+their fortresses. Their fields, gardens, and hunting-grounds were in
+the valleys or far-away mountains, whither they could go in times of
+peace; but, when attacked by foes, they fled up the trails, established
+elaborate methods of defence, and remained in their fortress-homes
+until the danger was past.
+
+The very construction of the houses reveals this. In none of the older
+houses is there any doorway into the lowest story. A solid wall faces
+the visitor, with perhaps a small window-hole. A rude ladder outside
+and a similar one inside afford the only means of entrance. One climbs
+up the ladder outside, drops through a hole in the roof, and descends
+the ladder inside. When attacked, the outer ladder could be drawn up,
+and thus, if we remember the crude weapons of the aborigines when
+discovered by the white man, it is evident that the inhabitants would
+remain in comparative security.
+
+Of late years doors and windows have been introduced into many of the
+ancient houses.
+
+It is a picturesque sight that the visitor to the Hopi towns enjoys
+as he reaches the head of the trail at Hano. The houses are built in
+terraces, two or three stories high, the second story being a step
+back from the first, so that a portion of the roof of the first story
+can be used as the courtyard or children's playground of the people
+who inhabit the second story. The third story recedes still farther,
+so that its people have a front yard on the roof of the second story.
+At Zuni and Taos these terraces continue for six and seven stories,
+but with the Hopis never exceed three. The first climb is generally
+made on a ladder, which rests in the street below. The ladder-poles,
+however, are much longer than is necessary, and they reach up
+indefinitely towards the sky. Sometimes a ladder is used to go from
+the second to the third story, but more often a quaint little stairway
+is built on the connecting walls. Equally quaint are the ollas used as
+chimneys. These have their bottoms knocked out, and are piled one above
+another, two, three, four, and sometimes five or six high. Some of the
+"terraces" are partially enclosed, and here one may see a weaver's
+loom, a flat stone for cooking _piki_ (wafer bread), or a beehive-like
+oven used for general cooking purposes. Here and there cord-wood is
+piled up for future use, and now and again a captive eagle, fastened
+with a rawhide tether to the bars of a rude cage, may be seen. The
+"king of birds" is highly prized for his down and feathers, which are
+used for the making of prayer plumes (bahos).
+
+There does not seem to have been much planning in the original
+construction of the Hopi pueblos. There was little or no provision
+made for the future. The first houses were built as needed, and then as
+occasion demanded other rooms were added.
+
+It will doubtless be surprising to some readers to learn that the Hopi
+houses are owned and _built_ (in the main) by the women, and that the
+men weave the women's garments and knit their own stockings. Here,
+too, the women enjoy other "rights" that their white sisters have
+long fought for. The home life of the Hopis is based upon the rights
+of women. They own the houses; the wife receives her newly married
+husband into her home; the children belong to her clan, and have her
+clan name, and not that of the father; the corn, melons, squash, and
+other vegetables belong to her when once deposited in her house by the
+husband. She, indeed, is the queen of her own home, hence the pueblo
+Indian woman occupies a social relationship different from that of most
+aborigines, in that she is on quite equal terms with her husband.
+
+In the actual building of the houses, however, the husband is required
+to perform his share, and that is the most arduous part of the labor.
+He goes with his burros to the wooded mesas or cottonwood-lined streams
+and brings the roof-timbers, ladder-poles, and door-posts. He also
+brings the heavier rocks needed in the building. Then the women aid him
+in placing the heavier objects, after which he leaves them to their own
+devices.
+
+Being an intensely religious people, the shamans or priests are always
+called upon when a new house is to be constructed. Bahos--prayer plumes
+or sticks--are placed in certain places, sacred meal is lavishly
+sprinkled, and singing and prayer offered, all as propitiation to
+those gods whose especial business it is to care for the houses.
+
+It is exceedingly interesting to see the women at work. Without
+plumb-line, straight line, or trowel they proceed. Some women are
+hod-carriers, bringing the pieces of sand or limestone rock to the
+"bricklayers" in baskets, buckets, or dish pans. Others mix the adobe
+to the proper consistency and see that the workers are kept supplied
+with it. And what a laughing, chattering, jabbering group it is! Every
+tongue seems to be going, and no one listening. Once at Oraibi I saw
+twenty-three women engaged in the building of a house, and I then got
+a new "side light" on the story of the Tower of Babel; The builders of
+that historic structure were women, and the confusion of tongues was
+the natural result of their feminine determination to all speak at once
+and never listen to any one else.
+
+I photographed the builders at Oraibi, and the next day contributed a
+new dress to each of the twenty-three workers. Here are some of their
+names: Wa-ya-wei-i-ni-ma, Mo-o-ho, Ha-hei-i, So-li, Ni-vai-un-si,
+Si-ka-ho-in-ni-ma, Na-i-so-wa, Ma-san-i-yam-ka, Ko-hoi-ko-cha,
+Tang-a-ka-win-ka, Hun-o-wi-ti, Ko-mai-a-ni-ma, Ke-li-an-i-ma.
+
+The finishing of the house is as interesting as the actual building.
+With a small heap of adobe mud the woman, using her hand as a trowel,
+fills in the chinks, smooths and plasters the walls inside and out.
+Splashed from head to foot with mud, she is an object to behold, and,
+as is often the case, if her children are there to "help" her, no
+mud-larks on the North River, the Missouri, or the Thames ever looked
+more happy in their complete abandonment to dirt than they. Then when
+the whitewashing is done with gypsum, or the coloring of the walls with
+a brown wash, what fun the children have. No pinto pony was ever more
+speckled and variegated than they as they splash their tiny hands into
+the coloring matter and dash it upon the walls.
+
+[Illustration: HOPI WOMEN BUILDING A HOUSE AT ORAIBI.]
+
+[Illustration: MASHONGANAVI FROM THE TERRACE BELOW.]
+
+Inside the houses the walls also are whitewashed or colored, and
+generally there is some attempt made to decorate them by painting rude
+though symbolic designs half-way between the floor and ceiling. The
+floor is of earth, well packed down with water generally mixed with
+plaster, and the ceiling is of the sustaining poles and cross-beams,
+over which willows and earth have been placed. Invariably one can find
+feathered bahos, or prayer plumes, in the beams above, and no house
+could expect to be prospered where these offerings to "Those Above"
+were neglected.
+
+The chief family room serves as kitchen, dining-room,
+corn-grinding-room, bedroom, parlor, and reception-room. In one
+corner a quaint, hooded fireplace is built, and here the housewife
+cooks her _piki_ and other corn foods, boils or bakes her squash,
+roasts, broils, or boils the little meat she is able to secure, and
+sits during the winter nights while "the elders" tell stories of the
+wondrous past, when all the animals talked like human beings and the
+mysterious people--the gods--from the upper world came down to earth
+and associated with mankind.
+
+The corn-grinding trough is never absent. Sometimes it is on a little
+raised platform, and is large or small as the size of the family
+demands. The trough is composed either of wooden or stone slabs,
+cemented into the floor and securely fastened at the corners with
+rawhide thongs. This trough is then divided into two, three, four, or
+more compartments (according to its size), and in each compartment a
+sloping slab of basic rock is placed. Kneeling behind this, the woman
+who is the grinder of the meal (the true lady, _laf-dig_, even though
+a Hopi) seizes in both hands a narrower flat piece of the same kind of
+rock, and this, with the motion of a woman over a washboard, she moves
+up and down, throwing a handful of corn every few strokes on the upper
+side of her grinder. This is arduous work, and yet I have known the
+women and maidens to keep steadily at it during the entire day.
+
+When the meal is ground, a small fire is made of corn cobs, over which
+an earthern olla is placed. When this is sufficiently heated the meal
+is stirred about in it by means of a round wicker basket, to keep it
+from burning. This process partially cooks the meal, so that it is more
+easily prepared into food when needed.
+
+In one corner of the house several large ollas will be found full of
+water. Living as they do on these mesa heights, where there are no
+springs, water is scarce and precious. Every drop, except the little
+that is caught in rain-time or melted from the snows, has to be carried
+up on the backs of the women from the valley below. In the heat of
+summer, this is no light task. With the fierce Arizona sun beating down
+upon them, the feet slipping in the hot sand or wearily pressing up on
+the burning rocks, the olla, filled with water, wrapped in a blanket
+and suspended from the forehead on the back, becomes heavier and
+heavier at each step. Those of us who have, perforce, carried cameras
+and heavy plates to the mesa tops know what strength and endurance this
+work requires.
+
+For dippers home-made pottery and gourd shells are commonly used. Now
+and again one will find the horn of a mountain sheep, which has been
+heated, opened out into a large spoon-like dipper; or a gnarled or
+knotty piece of wood, hacked out with flint knife into a pretty good
+resemblance to a dipper.
+
+Near the water ollas one can generally see a shelf upon which the
+household utensils are placed. Here, too, when corn is being ground,
+a half-dozen plaques of meal will stand. This shelf serves as pantry
+and meat safe (when there is meat), and the hungry visitor will seldom
+look there in vain for a basket-platter or two piled high with _piki_,
+the fine wafer bread for which the Hopis are noted. _Piki_ is colored
+in a variety of ways. Dr. Hough says the ashes of _Atriplex canescens
+James_ are used to give the gray color, and that _Amaranthus sp._ is
+cultivated in terrace gardens around the springs for use in dyeing
+it red; a special red dye from another species is used for coloring
+the _piki_ used in the Katchina dances; and the ashes of _Parryella
+filifolia_ are used for coloring. Saffron (_Carthamus tinctorius_) is
+used to give the yellow color.
+
+It is fascinating in the extreme to see a woman make _piki_. Dry
+corn-meal is mixed with coloring matter and water, and thus converted
+into a soft batter. A large, flat stone is so placed on stones that
+a fire can be kept continually burning underneath it. As soon as the
+slab is as hot as an iron must be to iron starched clothes it is
+greased with mutton tallow. Then with fingers dipped in the batter
+the woman dexterously and rapidly sweeps them over the surface of the
+hot stone. Almost as quickly as the batter touches, it is cooked; so
+to cover the whole stone and yet make even and smooth _piki_ requires
+skill. It looks so easy that I have known many a white woman (and
+man) tempted into trying to make it. Once while attending the Snake
+Dance ceremonials at Mashonganavi, a young lady member of my party was
+sure she could perform the operation successfully. My Hopi friend,
+Kuchyeampsi, gladly gave place to the white lady, and laughingly looked
+at me as the latter dipped her fingers into the batter, swept them
+over the stone, gave a suppressed exclamation of pain, tried again,
+and then hastily rose with three fingers well blistered. My cook, who
+was a white man, was sure he could accomplish the operation, so he was
+allowed to try. Once was enough. He was a religious man, and bravely
+kept silence, which was a good thing for us.
+
+When the _piki_ is sufficiently cooked, it is folded up into neat
+little shapes something like the shredded wheat biscuits. One thing I
+have often noticed is that a quick and skilful _piki_ maker will keep
+a sheet flat, without folding, so that she may place it over the next
+sheet when it is about cooked. This seems to make it easier to remove
+the newly cooked sheet from the cooking slab.
+
+If you are ever invited into a Hopi house you may rest assured you will
+not be there long before a piled-up basket of _piki_ will be brought to
+you, for the Hopis are wonderfully hospitable and enjoy giving to all
+who become their guests.
+
+Another object seldom absent is the "pole of the soft stuff." This
+is a pole suspended from the roof beams upon which all the blankets,
+skins, bedding, and wearing apparel are placed. Once upon a time these
+were very few and very crude. The skins of animals tanned with the
+hair on, blankets made of rabbit skins, and cotton garments made from
+home grown, spun, and woven cotton, comprised their "soft stuff." But
+when the Spaniards brought sheep into the province of Tusayan, and the
+Hopis saw the wonderful improvement a wool staple was over a cotton
+one, blankets and dresses of wool were slowly added to the household
+treasures, until now the "garments of the old," except antelope, deer,
+fox, and coyote skins, are seldom seen.
+
+[Illustration: MASHONGCE, AN ORAIBI MAIDEN, DRYING CORN MEAL.]
+
+[Illustration: THE TRIO OF METATES, AND HOPI WOMAN ABOUT TO GRIND
+CORN.]
+
+It is a remarkable fact that the Hopis wore garments made from cotton
+which they grew themselves, prior to the time of the Spanish invasion.
+They also knew how to color the cotton from unfading mineral and
+vegetable dyes, and in the graves of ancient cliff and cave dwellings,
+well-woven cotton garments often have been taken.
+
+Sometimes to-day one may see an old man or woman weaving a blanket
+from the tanned skins of rabbits. Such a garment is far warmer and
+more comfortable than one would imagine. The dressed pelts are twisted
+around a home-woven string made of shredded yucca fibre, wild flax, or
+cotton, and thus a long rope is formed many yards in length. This rope
+is then woven in parallel strings with cross strands of the same kind
+of fibre, and a robe made some five or six feet square.
+
+The windows of the ancient Hopi houses were either small open holes
+or sheets of gypsum. Of late years modern doors and windows have been
+introduced, yet there are still many of the old ones in existence.
+
+Having thus taken a general and cursory survey of Hano, let us, in
+turn, visit the six other villages on the mesa heights ere we look
+further into the social and ceremonial life of this interesting people.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THE HOPI VILLAGES AND THEIR HISTORY
+
+
+The province of Tusayan is dotted over in every direction with ruins,
+all of which were once inhabited by the Hopi people. Indeed, even
+in the "pueblo" stage of their existence they seem to have retained
+much of the restlessness and desire for change which marked them when
+"nomads."
+
+Traditionary lore among modern Hopis asserts that the well-known ruin
+of Casa Grande was once the home of their ancestors, and Dr. Fewkes has
+conclusively shown a line of ruins extending from the Gila and Salt
+River valleys to the present Hopi villages. So there is no doubt but
+that some, at least, of the Hopis came to their modern homes from the
+South. It is, therefore, quite possible that such ruins as Montezuma's
+Castle were once Hopi homes. Every indication seems to point to the
+fact that all these ancient ruins--some of which are caveate, others
+cliff, and still others independent pueblos, built in the open, away
+from all cliffs--were occupied by a people in dread of attack from
+enemies. Every home has its lookout. Every field could be watched.
+Nearly all the cliff and cave dwellings were naturally fortresses,
+and the open pueblos were so constructed as to render them castles of
+defence to their inhabitants on occasion.
+
+In these facts alone we can see an interesting, though to those
+primarily concerned a tragic state of affairs; a home-loving people,
+sedentary and agricultural, willing and anxious to live at peace,
+surrounded and perpetually harassed by wild and fierce nomads,
+whose delight was war, their occupation pillage, and their chief
+gratifications murder and rapine. The cliff- or cave-dwelling husband
+left his home in the morning to plant his corn or irrigate his field,
+uncertain whether the night would see him safe again with his loved
+ones, a captive in the hands of merciless torturers, or lying dead and
+mutilated upon the fields he had planted.
+
+No wonder they are the Hopituh--the people of peace. Who would not long
+for peace after many generations of such environment? Poor wretches!
+Every field had its memories of slaughter, every canyon had echoed
+the fierce yells of attacking foes, the shrieks of the dying, or the
+exultant shouts of the victors, and every dwelling-place had heard the
+sad wailing of widows and orphans.
+
+The union of these people, under such conditions, in towns became a
+necessity--self-preservation demanded cohesion. That isolation and
+separation were not unnatural or repulsive to them is shown by the
+readiness with which in later times they branched out and established
+new towns. These separations often led to bitter and deadly quarrels
+among themselves, and elsewhere[2] I have related the traditional
+story of the destruction of a Hopi city, Awatobi, by the inhabitants
+of rival cities, who in their determination to be "Hopituh"--people of
+peace--were willing to fight and exterminate their neighbors and thus
+compel peace.
+
+[2] "The Storming of Awatobi," _The Chautauquan_, August, 1901.
+
+Of the present seven mesa cities, towns, or villages of the Hopis, it
+is probable that Oraibi only occupies the same site that it had when
+first seen by white men in 1540.
+
+It will readily be recalled that when Coronado reached Cibola (Zuni)
+and conquered it he was sadly disappointed at not finding the piles of
+gold, silver, and precious stones he and his conquistadors had hoped
+for. The glittering stories of the gold-strewn "Seven Cities of Cibola"
+were sadly proven to be mythical. But hope revived when the wounded
+general was told of seven other cities, about a hundred miles to the
+northwest. _These_ might be the wealthy cities they sought. Unable to
+go himself, he sent his ensign Tobar, with a handful of soldiers and a
+priest, and it fell to the lot of these to be the first white men to
+gaze upon the wonders of the Hopi villages.
+
+Instead of finding them as we now see them, however, it is pretty
+certain that the first village reached was that of Awatobi, a town
+now in ruins and whose history is only a memory. Standing on the mesa
+at Walpi and looking a little to the right of the entrance to Keam's
+Canyon, the location of this "dead city" may be seen.
+
+Walpi occupied a terrace below where it now is, and Sichumavi and
+Hano were not founded. At the middle mesa Mashonganavi and Shungopavi
+occupied the foothills or lower terraces, and Shipauluvi was not in
+existence.
+
+What an interesting conflict that was, in 1540, between the few
+civilized and well-armed soldiers of Coronado and the warrior priests
+of Awatobi. Tobar and his men stealthily approached the foot of the
+mesa under the cover of darkness, but were discovered in the early
+morning ere they had made an attack. Led by the warrior priests, the
+fighting men of the village descended the trail, where the priests
+signified to the strangers that they were unwelcome. They forbade their
+ascending the trail, and with elaborate ceremony sprinkled a line of
+sacred meal across it, over which no one must pass. To cross that
+sacred and mystic line was to declare one's self an enemy and to invite
+the swift punishment of gods and men. But Tobar and his warriors knew
+nothing of the vengeance of Hopi gods and cared little for the anger of
+Hopi men, so they made a fierce and sharp onslaught. When we remember
+that this was the first experience of the Hopis with men on horseback,
+protected with coats of mail and metal helmets, who fought not only
+with sharpened swords, but also slew men at a distance with sticks that
+belched forth fire and smoke, to the accompaniment of loud thunder, it
+can well be understood that they speedily fell back and soon returned
+with tokens of submission. Thus was Awatobi taken. After this Walpi,
+Mashonganavi, Shungopavi, and Oraibi were more or less subjugated.
+
+In 1680, as is well known, Popeh, a resident of one of the eastern
+pueblos near the Rio Grande, conceived a plan to rid the whole country
+of the hated white men, and especially of the "long robes"--the
+priests--who had forbidden the ancient ceremonies and dances, and
+forcibly baptized their children into a new faith, which to their
+superstitious minds was a catastrophe worse than death. The Hopis
+joined in the plan, though Awatobi went into it with reluctance, owing
+to the kindly ministrations of the humane Padre Porras.
+
+The plot was betrayed, but not early enough to enable the Spaniards to
+protect themselves, and on the day of Santa Ana, the 10th of August,
+1680, the whole white race was fallen upon and mercilessly slain or
+driven out.
+
+For the next nearly twenty years the more timid of the people lived
+in dread of Spanish retaliation. Then it was that Hano was founded.
+Anticipating the arrival of a large force, a number of Tanoan and Tewan
+people fled from the Rio Grande to Tusayan. Some of the former went to
+Oraibi, and the latter asked permission to settle at the head of the
+Walpi trail near to "the Gap."
+
+Possibly about this same time, too, the villages located on the lower
+terraces or foothills moved to the higher sites, as they were thus
+afforded better protection.
+
+Sichumavi--"the mound of flowers"--was founded about the year 1750
+by Walpians of the Badger Clan, who for some reason or other grew
+discontented and wished a town of their own. Here they were joined by
+Tanoans of the Asa Clan from the Rio Grande, who for a time had lived
+in the seclusion of the Tsegi, as the Navahoes term the Canyon de
+Chelly in New Mexico.
+
+Exactly when Shipauluvi was founded is not known, though its name--"the
+place of peaches"--clearly denotes that it must have been after the
+Spanish invasion, for it was the conquerors who brought with them
+peaches. Nor were peaches the only good things the Hopis and other
+American aborigines owed to the hated foreigners. They introduced
+horses, cows, sheep (which latter have afforded them a large measure of
+sustenance and given to them and the Navahoes the material with which
+to make their useful rugs and blankets), and goats, besides a number of
+vegetables.
+
+Here, then, about the middle of the eighteenth century the Hopi mesa
+towns were settled as we now find them, and doubtless with populations
+as near as can be to their present numbers.
+
+Hano we have already visited. Let us now, hastily but carefully, glance
+at each of the other villages as they appear at the present time.
+
+Passing on to Sichumavi from Hano we find it similar in all its main
+features to Hano, except that none of its houses are as high. In the
+centre of the town is a large plaza where, in wet weather, a large body
+of rain-water collects. This is used for "laundry" purposes, as drink
+for the burros and goats, and a bathing pond for all the children of
+the pueblo. It is one of the funniest sights imaginable to see the
+youngsters playing and frolicking in the water by the hour,--I should
+have said liquid mud, for the filth that accumulates in this plaza
+reservoir is simply indescribable. Children of both sexes, their brown,
+swarthy bodies utterly indifferent to the piercing darts of the sun,
+lie down in this liquid filth, roll over, splash one another, run to
+and fro, and enjoy themselves hugely, even in the presence of the
+white visitor, until a glimpse of the dreaded camera sends them off
+splashing, yelling, gesticulating, and some of them crying, to the
+nearest shelter.
+
+That supereminence of Hopi character is conservatism is shown as one
+walks from Sichumavi to Walpi. Here is a literal exemplification
+demonstrating how the present generations "tread in the footsteps" of
+their forefathers. The trail over which the bare and moccasined feet of
+these people have passed and repassed for years is worn down deep into
+the solid sandstone. The springy and yielding foot, unprotected except
+by its own epidermis or the dressed skin of the goat, sheep, or deer,
+has cut its way into the unyielding rock, thus symbolizing the power of
+an unyielding purpose and demonstrating the force of an unchangeable
+conservatism.
+
+Between these two pueblos the mesa becomes so narrow that we walk on
+a mere strip of rock, deep precipices on either side. To the left are
+Keam's Canyon and the road over which we came; to the right are the
+gardens, corn-fields, and peach orchards, leading the eye across to the
+second mesa, on the heights of which are Mashonganavi and Shipauluvi.
+
+These gardens and corn-fields are the most potent argument possible
+against the statements of ignorant and prejudiced white men who claim
+that the Indians--Hopis as well as others--are lazy and shiftless.
+
+If a band of white men were placed in such a situation as the Hopis,
+and compelled to wrest a living from the sandy, barren, sun-scorched
+soil, there are few who would have faith and courage enough to attempt
+the evidently hopeless task. But with a patience and steadiness that
+make the work sublime, these heroic bronze men have sought out and
+found the spots of sandy soil under which the water from the heights
+percolates. They have marked the places where the summer's freshets
+flow, and thus, relying upon sub-irrigation and the casual and
+uncertain rainfalls of summer, have planted their corn, beans, squash,
+melons, and chili, carefully hoeing them when necessary, and each
+season reap a harvest that would not disgrace modern scientific methods.
+
+All throughout these corn-fields temporary brush sun-shelters are seen,
+under which the young boys and girls sit, scaring away the birds and
+watching lest any stray burro should enter and destroy that which has
+grown as the result of so much labor.
+
+[Illustration: AN ORAIBI WOMAN SHELLING CORN IN A BASKET OF YUCCA
+FIBRE.]
+
+[Illustration: THE "BURRO" OF HOPI TRANSPORTATION.]
+
+Here, too, in the harvesting time one may witness busy and interesting
+scenes. Whole families move down into temporary brush homes, and women
+and children aid the men in gathering the crops. Tethered and hobbled
+burros stand patiently awaiting their share of the common labor.
+
+Yonder is a group of men busy digging a deep pit. Watch them as it
+nears completion. It is made with a narrow neck and "bellies" out to
+considerable width below. Indeed, it is shaped not unlike an immense
+vase with a large, almost spherical body and narrow neck. In depth
+it is perhaps six, eight, ten, or a dozen feet. On one side a narrow
+stairway is cut into the earth leading down to its base, and at the
+foot of this stairway a small hole is cut through into the chamber.
+Our curiosity is aroused. What is this subterranean place for? As we
+watch, the workers bring loads of greasewood and other inflammable
+material, kindle a fire in the chamber, and fill it up with the wood.
+Now we see the use of the small hole at the foot of the stairway. It
+acts as a draught hole, and soon a raging furnace fire is in the vault
+before us. When a sufficient heat has been obtained, the bottom hole is
+closed, and then scores of loads of corn on the cob are dropped into
+the heated chamber. When full, every avenue that could allow air to
+enter is sealed, and there the corn remains over night or as long as
+is required to cook it,--self-steam it. It is then removed, packed in
+sacks or blankets on the backs of the patient burros, and removed to
+the corn-rooms of the houses on the mesa above.
+
+Other fresh corn is carried up and spread out on the house-tops to dry.
+
+All this is stored away in the corn-rooms, into which strangers
+sometimes are invited, but oftener kept away from. It is stacked up in
+piles like cord-wood, and happy is that household whose corn-stack is
+large at the beginning of a hard winter.
+
+Walpi--the place of the gap--though not a large town, is better
+known to whites than any of the other Hopi towns. Here it was that
+the earliest visitors came and saw the thrilling Snake Dance. Its
+southeastern trail, with the wonderful detached rock leaning over on
+one side and the cliff on the other, between which the steep and rude
+stairway is constructed, has been so often pictured, as well as the
+so-called "Sacred Rock" of the Walpi dance plaza, that they are now as
+familiar as photographs of Trinity Church, New York, or St. Paul's,
+London. As one stands on the top of one of the houses he sees how
+closely Walpi has been built. It covers the whole of the south end of
+the mesa, up to the very edges of the precipice walls in three of its
+four directions, and, as already shown, the fourth is the narrow neck
+of rock connecting Walpi with Sichumavi and Hano. The dance plaza is
+to the east, a long, narrow place, at the south end of which is the
+"Sacred Rock." It is approached from south and north by the regular
+"street" or trail, and one may leave it to the west through an archway,
+over which is built one of the houses.
+
+Several ruins on the east mesa are pointed out as "Old" Walpi, and
+the name of one of these--Nusaki--(also known as Kisakobi) is a clear
+indication that at one time the Spaniards had a mission church there. A
+Walpian, Pauwatiwa, shows, with pride, an old carved beam in his house
+which all Hopis say came from the mission when it was destroyed. On the
+terraces just below the mesa-top--perhaps a hundred or two hundred
+feet down--are a number of tiny corrals, to and from which, morning and
+evening, the boys, young men, and sometimes the women and girls may be
+seen driving their herds of sheep and goats, and in which the burros
+are kept when not in use. These picturesque corrals from below look
+almost like swallows' nests stuck on the face of the cliffs.
+
+As we wander about in the narrow and quaint streets of Walpi we cannot
+fail to observe the ladder-poles which are thrust through hatchways,
+down which we peer into the darkness below with little satisfaction.
+These lead to the _kivas_, or sacred ceremonial chambers, where all
+the secret rites of the different clans are held. Here we shall be
+privileged to enter if no ceremony is going on. The kivas are generally
+hewn out of the solid rock, or partially so, and are from twelve to
+eighteen feet square. When not otherwise occupied it is no uncommon
+sight to see in a kiva a Hopi weaver squatted before his rude loom,
+making a dress for his wife or daughter, or weaving a ceremonial sash
+or kilt for his own use in one of the many dances.
+
+In every Hopi town one cannot fail to be struck with the nudity of
+the children of all ages, from the merest babies up to eight and
+even ten years. With what Victor Hugo calls "the chaste indecency of
+childhood" these fat, bronze Cupids and embryo Venuses romp and play,
+as unconscious of their nakedness as Adam and Eve before their fall.
+
+From Walpi we descend to the corn-fields, and, after a slow and
+tedious drag across the sandy plain to the west, find ourselves at
+Mashonganavi, or at least at the foot of the trail which leads to the
+heights above. Here, as at the other mesas, there are two or three
+trails, all steep, all nerve-wrenching, all picturesque. Arrived at
+the village, we find Mashonganavi an interesting place, for it is so
+compactly built that one often hunts in vain (for a while, at least) to
+find the hidden dance plaza, around which the whole town seems to be
+built. Some of the houses are three stories high, and there are quaint,
+narrow alley-ways, queer dark tunnels, and underground kivas as at
+Walpi. The Antelope and Snake kivas are situated on the southeastern
+side of the village, on the very edge of the mesa, and with the tawny
+stretch of the Painted Desert leading the eye to the deep purple of the
+Giant's Chair and others of the Mogollon buttes, which Ives conceived
+as great ships in the desert, suddenly and forever arrested and
+petrified.
+
+About one hundred and fifty feet below the village is a terrace which
+almost surrounds the Mashonganavi mesa, as a rocky ruff around its
+neck. This terrace is so connected with the main plateau that one can
+drive upon it with a wagon and thus encamp close to the village. Here
+in 1901 the two wagon loads of sightseers and tourists which I had
+guided to the mysteries and delights of Tusayan, over the sandy and
+scorched horrors of a portion of the Painted Desert, encamped, during
+the last days of the Snake Dance ceremonies.
+
+From here a trail--at its head an actual rock stairway--leads down to
+a spring in the valley, where the government school is situated, and
+from whence all our cooking and drinking water had to be brought. Each
+morning and evening droves of sheep and goats passed our camp, coming
+up from below and going down to the scant pasturage of the valley.
+Scarcely an hour passed when some Indian--oftener half a dozen--came
+to our camp, and failed to pass. Especially at meal times, when the
+biscuits were in the oven, the stew on the fire, the beans in the
+pot, and the dried fruit in the stew-kettle, did they seem to enjoy
+visiting us. And they liked to come close, too; far too close for our
+comfort, as their persons are not always of the most cleanly character,
+and their habits of the most decorous and refined. Hence rules had to
+be laid down which it was my province to see observed, one of which
+was that visiting Indians must keep to a distance, especially at meal
+times. Another was that if our blankets were allowed to remain unrolled
+(in order to get the direct benefit of the sun's rays) they were not so
+left for our Indian friends to lounge upon.
+
+[Illustration: AN AGED HOPI AT ORAIBI.]
+
+[Illustration: A HOPI, WEAVING A NATIVE COTTON CEREMONIAL KILT.]
+
+We were generally a hungry lot as we sat or squatted around our canvas
+tablecloth, our table the rocky ground, and there was scant ceremony
+when ceremony stood in the way of appeasing our appetites. But we
+were not wasteful. If there were any "scraps" or any small remains on
+a plate or dish they were "saved for the Indians." So that at length
+it became a catch-word with us. If there was anything, anywhere, at
+any time, that we did not like, some one of the party was sure to
+suggest that it be "saved for the Indians." And that has often since
+suggested to me our national policy in treating the Amerind. There is
+too much national "Save that for the Indians." Land that is no good to
+a white man--save it for the Indians. Beef cattle that white men don't
+buy--save them for the Indians. Spoiled flour--save it for the Indians.
+Seeds that won't grow--ship 'em to the Indians.
+
+And that reminds me of a now not undistinguished artist who once
+accompanied a small party of mine some years ago to the Snake Dance
+at Oraibi. I came down to camp one day and found him cooking several
+slices of our finest ham, dishing up our choicest and scarcest
+vegetables, crackers, and delicacies, with a large pot of our most
+expensive coffee simmering and steaming by the camp-fire; and when
+I asked, "For whom?" was coolly told it was for three lazy, fat,
+lubberly, dirty Oraibis, who sat in delightful anticipation around the
+pump close by.
+
+My objection to this use of our provisions was expressed in forceful
+and vigorous Anglo-Saxon, and when I was told it was "none of my
+business," I emphasized my objection with a distinct refusal to allow
+_my_ provisions to be thus used. Then for half an hour immediately
+afterwards, and for days subsequently, at intervals, I was regaled with
+vocal chastisement worthy to be ranked with Demosthenes' "Philippics."
+"The Indian was a man and a brother. We were Christians, indeed, and of
+a truth when we would see our poor red brother starve to death before
+our sight," etc., _ad libitum_.
+
+Now between my artist friend's course and the one first named the happy
+mean lies. I do not believe we should give to the Indian only the
+scraps that fall from our national table; neither, on the other hand,
+do I believe we are called upon to give him the very best of our foods
+and provide special coffee at seventy-five cents a pound.
+
+And this sermon has occupied our time, by the way, as we have walked
+up the trail, by the Mashonganavi kivas to a spot from which we
+gain a good view of the village and of Shipauluvi on its higher and
+detached pinnacle a mile farther back. Again descending the trail to
+the terrace below, we walk half a mile and then begin the ascent of a
+steep stone stairway, carefully constructed, that leads us directly to
+Shipauluvi. This is a small town, occupying almost the whole of the
+dizzy site, with its few houses built around its rectangular plaza.
+
+Here I was once present at a witchcraft trial. It was a complicated
+affair, in which the dead and living, Navahoes and Hopis, were
+intertwined. A Hopi woman accused a Navaho of having bewitched her
+husband, thus causing his death, and of stealing from him a blanket
+and some sheep. The evidence showed that the Navaho had met the Hopi,
+and that soon afterwards he was taken sick and died, whereupon the
+sheep and blanket were found in the possession of the Navaho. There was
+little doubt of its being a case of theft, and the Navaho was ordered
+to return sheep and blanket, but he was exonerated from the charge of
+witchcraft.
+
+Living in Shipauluvi is one of those singular anomalies so often found
+in the pueblos, an albino woman. There are a dozen or so living in the
+other villages. With Hopi face, but white hair and skin, pink eyes, and
+general bleached-out appearance, they never fail to excite the greatest
+surprise in the mind of the stranger, and to those who see them often
+there is still a lingering wonder as to the cause of so singular a
+variation of physical appearance. At Mashonganavi there are two men
+albinos, one of them one of the Snake priests. It is claimed by the
+Indians that these albinos are of as pure Hopi blood as those who are
+normal in color, and the fact is incontrovertible that they are born of
+pure-blooded parents on both sides.
+
+Returning now to the terrace below, common to both Mashonganavi
+and Shipauluvi, the trail is descended to Shungopavi. A deep canyon
+separates the mesa upon which this village is built from the one
+upon which the two former are located. Near the foot of the trail
+the government has established a schoolhouse, and close by are the
+springs and pools of water. It is a sandy ride or walk, and on a hot
+day--"a-tu-u-u"--wearisome and exhausting. For half a dollar or so one
+may hire a burro and his owner as guide, and it is much easier to go
+burro-back over the yielding sand than to walk. There are straggling
+peach trees on the way, and a trail, rocky and steep, to ascend ere we
+see Shungopavi.
+
+The wagons may be driven to the village (as mine were), but it is a
+long way around. The road to Oraibi across the mesa is taken, and when
+about half-way across a crude road is followed which runs out upon the
+"finger tip" where Shungopavi stands. Here the governor in 1901 was
+Lo-ma-win-i, and he and I became very good friends. Knowing my interest
+in the Snake Dance, he sent for the chief priests of the Snake and
+Antelope Clans (Kai-wan-i-wi-ya-ŭ-má and Lo-ma-ho-in-i-wa), and from
+them I received a cordial invitation to be present and participate in
+the secret ceremonials of the kiva at their next celebration. I have
+been privileged to be present, but was never invited before.
+
+The governor is an expert silversmith, the necklace he wears being
+a specimen of his own art. It is wonderful how, with their crude
+materials and tools, such excellent work can be produced. Mexican
+dollars are melted in a tiny home-made crucible, rude moulds are carved
+out of sand--or other stone into which the melted metal is poured, and
+then hand manipulation, hammering, and brazing complete the work.
+Their silver articles of adornment are finger rings, bracelets, and
+necklaces.
+
+Oraibi is the most western and conservative of the Hopi villages.
+It is by far the largest, having perhaps a third of the whole
+population. It is divided into two factions, the so-called hostiles
+and friendlies, the former being the conservative element, determined
+not to forsake "the ways of the old," the ways of their ancestors;
+and the latter being generally willing to obey orders ostensibly
+issued by "Wasintonia"--as they call the mysterious Indian Department.
+These divisions are a source of great sorrow to the former leaders of
+the village. In the introduction to "The Oraibi Soyal Ceremony" by
+Professor George A. Dorsey, of the Field Columbian Museum, and Rev.
+H. R. Voth, his assistant, and formerly a Mennonite missionary at
+Oraibi, this dissension is spoken of as follows: "During the year 1891
+representatives of the Indian Department made strenuous efforts to
+secure pupils for the government school located at Keam's Canyon, about
+forty miles from Oraibi. This effort on the part of the government
+was bitterly resented by a certain faction of the people of Oraibi,
+who seceded from Lolúlomai, the village chief, and soon after began
+to recognize Lomahungyoma as leader. The feeling on the part of this
+faction against the party under Lolúlomai was further intensified by
+the friendly attitude the Liberals took toward other undertakings of
+the government, such as allotment of land in severalty, the building of
+dwelling-houses at the foot of the mesa, the gratuitous distribution
+of American clothing, agricultural implements, etc. The division thus
+created manifested itself not only in the everyday life of the people,
+but also in their religious ceremonies. Inasmuch as the altars and
+their accessories are the chief elements in these ceremonies, they soon
+became the special object of controversy, each party contending for
+their possession; and so it came about that the altars remained to that
+faction to which the chief priests and those who had them in charge
+belonged, the members of the opposing faction, as a rule, withdrawing
+from further participation in the celebration of the ceremony."
+
+The dance plaza is on the western side of the village, and there the
+dances and other outdoor ceremonies take place.
+
+One of my earliest visits to Oraibi was made in the congenial company
+of Major Constant Williams, who was then the United States Indian
+Agent, at Fort Defiance, for the Navahoes and Hopis. We had driven
+across the Navaho Reservation from Fort Defiance to Keam's Canyon,
+and then visited the mesas in succession. We drove to the summit of
+the Oraibi mesa in his buckboard, a new conveyance which he had had
+made to order at Durango, Colo. The road was the same one up which the
+soldiers had helped the horses drag the Gatling gun at the time of
+the arrest of the so-called "hostiles," who were sent to Alcatraz for
+their refusal to forsake their Oraibi ways and follow the "Washington
+way." It was a steep, ugly road, rough, rocky, and dangerous. The
+Major's horses, however, were strong, intelligent, and willing, so
+we made the ascent with comparative ease. The return, however, was
+different. There were so many things of interest at Oraibi that I found
+it hard to tear myself away, and the "shades of night were falling
+fast"--far too fast for the Major's peace of mind--ere I returned to
+the buckboard. By the time we had traversed the summit of the mesa
+to the head of the "trail" part of the descent, it was dark enough
+to make the cold tremors perambulate up and down one's spine. But
+I had every confidence in the Major's driving, his horses, and his
+knowledge of that fearfully precipitous and dangerous road. Slowly we
+descended, the brake scraping and often entirely holding the wheels.
+We could see and feel the dark abysses, first on one side and then on
+the other, or feel the overshadowing of the mighty rock walls which
+towered above us. I was congratulating myself that we had passed all
+the dangerous places, and in a few moments should be on the drifted
+sand, which, though steep, was perfectly safe, when we came to the
+last "drop off." This can best be imagined by calling it what it was,
+a steep, rocky stairway, of two or three steps, with a precipice on
+one side, and a towering wall on the other. Hugging the wall, the
+upper step extended like a shelf for eight or ten feet, and the nigh
+horse, disliking to make the abrupt descent of the step, clung close to
+the wall and walked along the shelf. The off horse dropped down. The
+result can be imagined. One horse's feet were up at about the level
+of the other's back. The wheels followed their respective horses. The
+nigh wheels stayed on the shelf, the off wheels came down the step.
+The Major and I decided, very suddenly, to leave the buckboard. We
+were rudely toppled out, down the precipice on the left,--I at the
+bottom of the heap. Down came camera cases, tripods, boxes of plates,
+and all the packages of odds and ends I had bought from the Indians,
+bouncing about our ears. Like a flash the two horses took fright and
+started off, dragging that overturned buckboard after them. They did
+not swirl around to the left down the sandy road, but to the right upon
+a terrace of the rocky mesa, and we saw the sparks fly as the ironwork
+of the wagon struck and restruck the rocks. The noise and roar and
+clatter were terrific. Great rocks were started to rolling, and the
+echoes were enough to awaken the dead. Suddenly there was a louder
+crash than ever, and then all was silent. We felt our hearts thumping
+against our ribs, and the only sounds we could hear were their fierce
+beatings and our own hard breathing. Fortunately, we had landed on a
+narrow shelf some seven feet down, covered deep with sand, so neither
+of us was seriously hurt except in our feelings; but imagine the dismay
+that swept aside all thoughts of thankfulness for our narrow escape
+when that crash and dread silence came. No doubt horses and buckboard
+were precipitated over one of the cliffs and had all gone to "eternal
+smash." My conscience made me feel especially culpable, for had I not
+detained the Major we should have left the mesa long before it was so
+dark. I had caused the disaster! It was nothing that I had been "spilt
+out," that doubtless my cameras were smashed, and the plates I had
+exposed with so much care and in spite of the opposition of the Hopis
+were in tiny pieces--for I had clearly heard that peculiar "smash" that
+spoke of broken glass as I myself landed on the top of my head. Think
+of that span of fine horses, and the Major's new buckboard! The thought
+about completed the work of mental and physical paralysis the shock of
+falling had begun. I was suddenly awakened, not by the Major's voice,
+for neither of us had yet spoken a word,--and indeed, I didn't know
+but that he was dead,--but by the scratching of a match. Then he was
+alive! That was cause for thankfulness. Setting fire to a dried cactus,
+the Major, after thoroughly picking himself up and shaking himself
+together, proceeded to gather up the photographic débris. Silently I
+aided him. Still silently we piled it all together, as much under the
+shelter of the rocks as possible, and then, still without a word, we
+climbed back upon the road and started to walk to the house of Mr.
+Voth, the missionary, where we were stopping. For half a mile or more
+we trudged on wearily through the deep and yielding sand. Still never
+a word. We both breathed heavily, for the sand was dreadfully soft. I
+was wondering what I could say. My conscience so overpowered me that I
+dared not speak. I was humbling myself, inwardly, into the very dust
+for having been the unconscious and innocent, yet nevertheless actual
+cause of this disaster. I simply couldn't break the silence. To offer
+to pay for the horses and buckboard was easy (though that would be a
+serious matter to my slender purse) compared with appeasing the sturdy
+Major for the shock to his mental and physical system. Then, too, how
+he must feel! At the very thought the cold sweat started on my brow and
+I could feel it trickling down my chest and back.
+
+[Illustration: AN ORAIBI BASKET WEAVER.]
+
+[Illustration: AN ADMIRING HOPI MOTHER.]
+
+Suddenly the Major stopped, and in the darkness I could dimly see him
+take out his large white handkerchief, mop his brow and head, and then,
+with explosive force, but in a voice charged with deepest and sincerest
+feeling he broke the painful silence: "Thank God, the sun isn't
+shining."
+
+Brave-hearted, generous Major Williams! Not a word of reproach, no
+suggestion of blame. What a relief to my burdened soul. I was almost
+hysterical in my ready response. Yes, we could be thankful that our
+lives and limbs were spared. We were both unhurt. New horses and
+buckboard could be purchased, but life and health preserved called for
+thankfulness to the Divine Protector.
+
+Thus we congratulated ourselves as we slowly plodded along through
+the sand. Arrived at Mr. Voth's, we soon retired,--he in the bedroom
+prepared for him by kindly Mrs. Voth, I in my blankets outside. The
+calm face of the sky soon soothed my disquieted feelings and nerves,
+and in a short time I fell asleep. Not a thought disturbed me until
+just as the faintest peepings of dawn began to show on the eastern
+ridges, when, awakening, I heard a noise as of a horse shaking his
+harness close by. Like a flash I jumped up, and, in my night-robe
+though I was, rushed to the entrance to the corral. There, unharmed
+and uninjured, with harness upon them complete, the lines dangling
+down behind, the neck yoke holding them together, as if they were just
+brought from the stable ready to be hitched to the wagon, were the two
+horses which I had vividly pictured to myself as dashed to pieces upon
+the cruel rocks at the foot of one of the mesa precipices.
+
+I could scarcely refrain from shouting my joy. Hastily I dressed, and
+while dressing thought: "The horses are here; I'll go and hunt for
+the wagon." So noiselessly I hitched them to Mr. Voth's buckboard and
+drove off. When I came to the scene of the disaster, I found I could
+drive upon the rocky terrace. There was no difficulty in following the
+course of the runaways. Here was part of the seat, farther on some of
+the ironwork, and still farther the dashboard. At last I reached the
+overturned and dismantled vehicle. It was in a sorry state. Two of the
+wheels were completely dished, the seat and dashboard were "scraped"
+off, one whiffletree was broken, and the whole thing looked as if it
+had been rudely treated in a tornado. I turned it over, tied the wheels
+so that they would hold, and then, fastening it behind Mr. Voth's
+buckboard, slowly drove back to the house.
+
+When the Major awoke he was as much surprised and pleased as I was
+to find the horses safe and sound and the buckboard in a repairable
+condition. With a little manœuvring we got the vehicle as far as
+Keam's Canyon, where old Jack Tobin, the blacksmith, fixed it up so
+that it could be driven back to Fort Defiance, and thither, with care
+and caution, the Major drove me. A few weeks later, under the healing
+powers of the agency blacksmith, the buckboard renewed its youth,--new
+wheels, new seat, new dashboard, and an all covering new coat of paint
+wiped out the memories of our trip down from the Oraibi mesa, except
+those we carried in the depths of our own consciousness.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+A FEW HOPI CUSTOMS
+
+
+To know any people thoroughly requires many years of studied
+observation. The work of such men as A. M. Stephen, Dr. Fewkes, Rev.
+H. R. Voth, and Dr. George A. Dorsey reveals the vast field the Hopis
+offer to students. To the published results of these indefatigable
+workers the student is referred for fuller knowledge. There are certain
+things of interest, however, that the casual observer cannot fail to
+note.
+
+The costume of the men is undoubtedly a modification of the dress
+of the white man. Trousers are worn, generally of white muslin, and
+from the knee down on the outer side they are split open at the seam.
+Soleless stockings, home-spun, dyed and knit, are worn, fastened with
+garters, similar in style and design, though smaller, to the sashes
+worn by the women. The feet are covered with rawhide moccasins. The
+shirt is generally of colored calico, though on special occasions
+the "dudes" of the people appear in black or violet velvet shirts
+or tunics, which certainly give them a handsome appearance. The
+never-failing banda, wound around the forehead, completes the costume,
+though accessories in the shape of silver and wampum necklaces, finger
+rings, etc., are often worn.
+
+The costume of the women is both picturesque and adapted to their
+life and customs. It is neat, appropriate, and modest. The effort our
+government feels called upon to make to lead them to change it for
+calico "wrappers," in accordance with a principle adopted which regards
+as "bad" and "a hindrance to civilization" anything native, is to my
+mind vicious and senseless. The Indians are not to be civilized by
+making them wear white people's costumes, nor by any such nonsense.
+There are those who condemn their basket weaving, because, forsooth, it
+is not a Christian art. True civilizing processes come from within, and
+desire for change must precede the outward manifestation if permanent
+results are desired.
+
+To return to the costume. It consists mainly of a home-woven robe,
+dyed in indigo. When made, it looks more like an Indian blanket than
+a dress, but when the woman throws it over her right shoulder, sews
+the two sides together, leaving an opening for the right arm, and then
+wraps one of the highly colored and finely woven sashes around her
+waist, the beholder sees a dress at once healthful and picturesque. As
+a rule, it comes down a little below the knee, and the left shoulder
+is uncovered. Of late years many of the women and girls have learned
+to wear a calico slip under the picturesque native dress, so that both
+arms and shoulders are covered.
+
+Most of the time the legs and feet are naked, but when a woman wishes
+to be fully attired, she wraps buckskins, cut obliquely in half,
+around her legs, adroitly fastening the wrappings just above the knee
+with thongs cut from buckskin, and then encases her feet in shapely
+moccasins. There is no compression of her solid feet, no distortion
+with senseless high heels. She is too self-poised, mentally, to care
+anything about Parisian fashions. Health, neatness, comfort, are the
+desiderata sought and obtained in her dress. The question is sometimes
+asked, however, if the heavy leg swathings of buckskin are not a mere
+fashion of Hopi dress. Undoubtedly there is a following of custom here
+as well as elsewhere, and, as I have before remarked, one of the keys
+to the Hopi character is his conservatism. But the buckskin leggings
+have a decided reason for their existence. In a desert country where
+cacti, cholla, many varieties of prickly shrubs, sharp rocks, and
+dangerous reptiles abound, it is necessary that the women whose work
+calls them into these dangers should so dress as to be prepared to
+overcome them. Many a man wearing the ordinary trousers of civilization
+and finding himself off the beaten paths of these desert regions has
+longed for just such protection as the Hopi women give themselves. The
+cow-boys who ride pell-mell through the brush wear leather trousers,
+and their stirrups are covered with tough and thick leather to protect
+their shoes from being pierced by the searching needles of the cactus,
+cholla, and buck-brush.
+
+The adornments that a Hopi maiden of fashion affects are silver rings
+and bracelets made by native silversmiths, and necklaces of coral,
+glass, amber, or more generally of the shell wampum found all over the
+continent. The finer necklets of wampum are highly prized, and when
+very old and ornamented with pieces of turquoise, can not be purchased
+for large sums. Occasionally ear pendants are worn. These are made of
+wood, half an inch broad and an inch long, inlaid on one side with
+pieces of bright shell, turquoise, etc.
+
+When a girl reaches the marriageable age, she is required by the
+customs of her people to fix up her hair in two large whorls, one on
+each side of her head. This gives her a most striking appearance.
+The whorl represents the squash blossom, which is the Hopi emblem
+of purity and maidenhood. Girls mature very early, the young maidens
+herewith represented being not more than from twelve to fifteen years
+of age.
+
+[Illustration: SHUPELA, FATHER OF KOPELI, LATE SNAKE PRIEST AT WALPI.]
+
+[Illustration: A HOPI GIRL, ORAIBI.]
+
+When a woman marries she must no longer wear the nash-mi (whorls). A
+new symbolism must be introduced. The hair is done up in two pendant
+rolls, in imitation of the ripened fruit of the long squash, which is
+the Hopi emblem of fruitfulness.
+
+In my book on "Indian Basketry" I have described in detail the basketry
+of the Hopis. There are two distinct varieties made at the four
+villages of the middle and western mesas. Those made on the middle mesa
+are of yucca fibre (mo-hu) coiled around a core of grass or broom-corn
+(sü-ü). Those of Oraibi are of willow and approximate as nearly to
+the crude willow work of civilization as any basketry made by the
+aborigines. In both cases the splints are dyed, commonly nowadays with
+the startling aniline dyes, and with marvellous fertility of invention
+the weavers make a thousand and one geometrical designs, in imitation
+of natural objects, katchinas, etc. These are mainly plaques, but
+the yucca fibre weavers make a treasure or trinket basket, somewhat
+barrel-shaped, oftentimes with a lid, that is both pretty and useful.
+The name for all the yucca variety is pü-ü-ta. The Oraibi willow
+plaques are called yung-ya-pa, while a bowl-shaped basket is sa-kah-ta,
+and the bowls made of coiled willow splints bought from the Havasupai
+are sü-kü-wü-ta.
+
+The Hopi weavers when at work invariably keep a blanket full of moist
+sand near them in which the splints are buried. This keeps them
+flexible, and the moist sand is better than water.
+
+A reddish-brown native dye is made from Ohaishi (_Thelesperma
+gracile_), with which the splints are colored.
+
+Unfortunately, the introduction of aniline dyes has almost killed
+the industry of making native dyes, but there are some few
+conservatives--God bless them!--who adhere to the ancient colors and
+methods of preparing them.
+
+It cannot be said that the Hopis are devoid of musical taste, for in
+the early morning especially, as the youths and men take their ponies
+or flocks of goats and sheep out to pasture, they sing with sweet and
+far-reaching voices many picturesque melodies.
+
+Of the weird singing at their religious ceremonials I have spoken in
+the chapter devoted to that purpose.
+
+To most civilized ears Hopi instrumental music, however, is as much a
+racket and din as is Chinese music. The lelentu, or flute, however,
+produces weird, soft, melancholy music. Their rattles are of three
+kinds, the gourd rattle (ai-i-ya), the rattle used by the Antelope
+priests, and the leg rattle of turtle shell and sheep's trotters
+(yöng-ush-o-na). The drum and hand tombe are crude affairs, the former
+made by hollowing out a tree trunk and stretching over each end wet
+rawhide, the lashings also being of strips of wet rawhide (with
+the hair on), which, when dry, tightens so as to give the required
+resonance. The hand tombe is as near like a home-made tambourine as can
+be. It has no jingles, however. Another instrument is the strangest
+conception imaginable. It consists of a large gourd shell, from the top
+of which a square hole has been cut. Across this is placed a notched
+stick, one end of which is held in the performer's left hand. In the
+other hand is a sheep's thigh-bone, which is worked back and forth
+over the notched stick, and the resultant noise is the desired music.
+This instrument is the zhe-gun´-pi.
+
+They do not seem to have many games, so many of their religious
+ceremonials affording them the diversion other peoples seek in athletic
+sports. Their racing is purely religious, as I have elsewhere shown,
+and they get much fun out of some of their semi-religious exercises.
+
+A game that they are very fond of, and that requires considerable
+skill to play, is wē-la. The game consists in several players, each
+armed with a feathered dart, or ma-te´-va, rushing after a small hoop
+made of corn husks or broom-corn well bound together--the wē-la,
+and throwing their darts so that they stick into it The hoop is about
+a foot in diameter and two inches thick, the ma-te´-va nearly a foot
+long. Each player's dart has a different color of feathers, so that
+each can tell when he scores. To see a dozen swarthy and almost nude
+youths darting along in the dance plaza, or streets, or down in the
+valley on the sand, laughing, shouting, gesticulating, every now and
+then stopping for a moment, jabbering over the score, then eagerly
+following the motion of the thrower of the wē-la so as to be ready
+to strike the ma-te´-va into it, and then, suddenly letting them fly,
+is a picturesque and lively sight.
+
+The Hopi is quite a traveller. Though fond of home, I have met members
+of the tribe in varied quarters of the Painted Desert Region. They
+get a birch bark from the Verdi Valley with which they make the dye
+for their moccasins. A yellowish brown color, called _pavissa_, is
+obtained from a point near the junction of the Little Colorado and
+Marble Canyon. Here they obtain salt, and at the bottom of the salt
+springs, where the waters bubble up in pools, this _pavissa_ settles.
+Bahos, or prayer sticks, are always deposited at the time of obtaining
+this ochre, as it is to be used in the painting of the face of the
+bahos used in most sacred ceremonies. The so-called Moki trail is
+evidence of the long association between the Hopis and the Havasupais
+in Havasu (Cataract) Canyon, and I have often met them there trading
+blankets, horses, etc., for buckskin and the finely woven wicker
+bowl-baskets--kü-üs--of the Havasupais, which are much prized by the
+Hopis.
+
+Occasionally he reaches as far northeast as Lee's Ferry and even
+crosses into southern Utah, and at Zuni to the southeast he is ever
+a welcome visitor. The Apaches in the White Mountains tell that on
+occasions the Hopis will visit them, and when visiting the Yumas in
+1902 they informed me that long ago the Snake Dancing Mokis were their
+friends, and sometimes came to see them.
+
+Dr. Walter Hough has written a most interesting paper on "Environmental
+Interrelations in Arizona," in which are many items about the Hopis. He
+says they brought from their priscan home corn, beans, melons, squash,
+cotton, and some garden plants, and that they have since acquired
+peaches, apricots, and wheat, and among other plants which they
+infrequently cultivate may be named onions, chili, sunflowers, sorghum,
+tomatoes, potatoes, grapes, pumpkins, garlic, coxcomb, coriander,
+saffron, tobacco, and nectarines. They are great beggars for seeds and
+will try any kind that may be given to them.
+
+Owing to their dependence upon wild grasses for food when their corn
+crops used to fail,--that is, in the days before a paternal government
+helped them out at such times,--every Hopi child was a trained botanist
+from his earliest years; not trained from our standpoint, but from
+theirs. We should say much of his knowledge was unscientific, and it
+goes far beyond the use of grasses and plants as food. Dr. Hough in
+his paper gives a number of examples of the uses to which the various
+seeds, etc., are put. The botanist as well as the ethnologist will find
+this a most comprehensive and useful list. For food forty-seven seeds,
+berries, stems, leaves, or roots are eaten. The seeds of a species of
+sporobolus are ground with corn to make a kind of cake, which the Hopis
+greatly enjoy. The leaves of a number are cooked and eaten as greens.
+
+A large amount of folk-lore connected with plants has been collected
+by Drs. Fewkes and Hough. From the latter's extensive list I quote.
+For headache the leaves of the _Astragalus mollissimus_ are bruised
+and rubbed on the temples; tea is made from the root of the _Gaura
+parviflora_ for snake bite; women boil the _Townsendia arizonica_
+into a tea and drink it to induce pregnancy; a plant called by the
+Hopi _wütakpala_ is rubbed on the breast or legs for pain; _Verbesina
+enceloides_ is used on boils or for skin diseases; _Croton texlusis_ is
+taken as an emetic; _Allionia linearis_ is boiled to make an infusion
+for wounds; the mistletoe that grows on the juniper (_Phoradendron
+juniperinum_) makes a beverage which both Hopi and Navaho say is like
+coffee, and a species that grows on the cottonwood, called _lo mapi_,
+is used as medicine; the leaves of _Gilia longiflora_ are boiled
+and drank for stomach ache; the leaves of the _Gilia multiflora_
+(which is collected forty miles south of Walpi at an elevation of six
+thousand feet), when bruised and rubbed on ant bites is said to be a
+specific; _Oreocarya suffruticosa_ is pounded up and used for pains in
+the body; _Carduus rothrockii_ is boiled and drank as tea for colds
+which give rise to a prickling sensation in the throat; the leaves
+of _Coleosanthus wrightii_ are bruised and rubbed on the temples for
+headache, as also is the _Artemisia canadensis_; and so on throughout a
+list as long again as this.
+
+In connection with this list Dr. Hough calls attention to the workings
+of the Hopi mind in a manner which justifies an extensive quotation:--
+
+ "The word 'medicine' as applied by the Hopi and other tribes is very
+ comprehensive, including charms to influence gods, men, and animals,
+ or to cure a stomach ache. As stated, from experiments with the plants
+ some have been discovered which are uniform in action and which
+ would have place in a standard pharmacopœia. Thus there are heating
+ plasters, powders for dressing wounds, emetics, diuretics, purges,
+ sudorific infusions, etc. Other plants are of doubtful value, and in
+ their use other animistic ideas may enter, though some of them, such
+ as those infused for colds, headache, rheumatism, fever, etc., may
+ have therapeutic properties. The obligation of the civilized to the
+ uncivilized for healing plants is very great. Another class is clearly
+ out of the domain of empirical medicine. Tea made from the thistle is
+ a remedy for prickling pains in the larynx, milkweed will induce a
+ flow of milk, and there are other examples of inferential medicine.
+ Perhaps another class is shown by the employment of the plant named
+ for the bat, in order to induce sleep in the daytime.
+
+ "It may be interesting to look into the workings of the Indian mind as
+ shown by his explanation of the uses of certain of these plants.
+
+ "A beautiful scarlet gilia (_Gilia aggregata_ Spreng) grows on the
+ talus of the giant mesa on which ancient Awatobi stood. This is the
+ only locality where the plant has been collected in this region,
+ but it grows in profusion on the White Mountains, one hundred and
+ twenty-five miles southeast.
+
+ "The herdsman of our party was asked the name and use of the plant. He
+ replied: 'It is the _pala katchi_, or red male flower, and it is very
+ good for catching antelope. Before going out to kill antelope, hunters
+ rub up the flowers and leaves of the plant and mix them with the meal
+ which they offer during their prayer to the gods of the chase.'
+
+ "'Why is that?' was asked.
+
+ "'Because,' he replied, 'the antelope is very fond of this plant and
+ eats it greedily when he can find it.' (Animistic idea.)
+
+ "Another creeping plant (_Solanum triflorum_ Nutt.), which bears
+ numerous green fruit about the size of a cherry, filled with small
+ seeds, is called _cavayo ngahu_, or watermelon medicine. The plant may
+ be likened to a miniature watermelon vine. It was explained that if
+ one took the fruit and planted it in the same hill with the watermelon
+ seeds, would there be many watermelons,--that is, the watermelon would
+ be influenced to become as prolific as the small plant.
+
+ "Every one is familiar with the clematis bearing fluffy bunches of
+ seeds having long, hair-like appendages. An Indian lecturing on a
+ collected specimen of the clematis said: 'This is very good to make
+ the hair grow. You make a tea of it and rub it on the head, and pretty
+ quick your hair will hang down to your hips,' indicating by a gesture
+ the extraordinary length. For the same reason the fallugia is a good
+ hair tonic."
+
+The Hopi uses a weapon for catching rabbits which, for want of a
+better name, white men call a boomerang. It possesses none of the
+strange properties of the Australian weapon, yet in the hands of a
+skilled Hopi it is wonderfully effective. I have seen fifty Oraibis on
+horseback, and numbers of men and boys on foot, each armed with one
+of these weapons, on their rabbit drive. They determine on a certain
+area and then beat it thoroughly for rabbits, and woe be to the unhappy
+cottontail or even lightning-legged jack-rabbit if a Hopi throws his
+boomerang. Like the wind it speeds true to its aim and seldom fails to
+kill or seriously wound.
+
+Though most of the men have guns and many of the youths revolvers, the
+bow and arrow as a weapon is not entirely discarded. All the young
+boys, even little tots that can scarcely walk, use the bow and arrow
+with dexterity. A small hard melon or pumpkin is thrown into the air
+and a child will sometimes put two or even three arrows into it before
+it reaches the ground. Old men who are too poor to own modern weapons
+are often seen sitting like the proverbial and oft-pictured fox,
+stealthily watching for a ground squirrel, prairie-dog, or rat to come
+out of his hole, when the speedy and certain arrow is let fly to his
+undoing.
+
+Except for a little wild meat of this kind, secured seldom, or a sheep,
+which is too valuable for its wool to kill on any except very special
+and rare occasions, the Hopis are practically vegetarians. They are
+not above taking what the gods send them, however, in the shape of a
+dead horse. A few years ago Mr. D. M. Riordan, formerly of Flagstaff,
+conducted a party of friends over a large section of the region
+presented in these pages, and when near Oraibi a beautiful mare of one
+of the teams suddenly bloated and speedily died. In less than an hour
+after they were told they might take the flesh; the Hopis had skinned
+it, cut up the carcass, and removed every shred of it. I afterwards saw
+the flesh cut into strips, hung outside the houses of the fortunate
+possessors to dry, and I doubt not that horse meat made many a happy
+meal for them during the months that followed.
+
+[Illustration: HOPI CHILDREN, AT ORAIBI, WAITING FOR A SCRAMBLE OF
+CANDY.]
+
+When a Hopi feels rich he may buy a sheep or a goat from a Navaho, or
+even kill a burro in order to vary his dietary.
+
+Corn is his staple food. It is cooked in a variety of ways, but the
+three principal methods are piki, pikami, and pū-vū-lū. Piki
+is a thin, wafer-like bread, cooked as I have before described.
+
+On one occasion, at Oraibi, an old friend, Na-wi-so-ma, was making piki
+for the Snake Dancers. When I took my friends to see her, they all ate
+of the bread and asked her all manner of questions about it.
+
+Na-wi-so-ma was very kind and obliging. One of my party wished to
+make moving photographs of the operation of making piki, so she
+cheerfully moved her tōō-ma (cooking stone) outside. She insisted
+upon placing it, however, so that her back was to the blazing sun,
+which rendered it impossible to make the photographs. It was in vain
+that I explained to her why she must face the sun, and, at last, in
+desperation, I seized the heavy tōō-ma and carried it where I
+desired it to be. In my haste in putting it down--rather, dropping
+it--it snapped in two, and I had to repair the damage to her stone and
+feelings with a piece of silver ere we could proceed.
+
+Pikami is made as follows: A certain amount of corn-meal is mixed with
+a small amount of sugar, and coloring matter made from squash flowers.
+This mixture is then placed in an earthenware vessel, or olla, and a
+cover tightly sealed on the vessel with mud. It is now ready to go
+into the oven. The pikami oven is generally out of doors. Sometimes
+it is a mere hole in the ground, without a covering, but the better
+style is where the hole is located in the angle of two walls and
+partially covered. A broken olla is made to serve as a chimney. To
+prepare the oven, sticks of wood are placed inside it and set on fire.
+When these are reduced to flaming coals and the oven is red hot, the
+coals are withdrawn, and the olla containing the corn-meal mixture is
+lowered into the hole. This is then covered with a stone slab, sealed
+with mud, and allowed to remain closed for several hours. When the
+oven is unsealed and the olla withdrawn, the corn-meal is thoroughly
+cooked--now pikami--and the dish is both nutritious and delicious.
+
+Pū-vū-lū is a corn-meal preparation that corresponds somewhat
+to the New England doughnut. On one occasion, just before the Snake
+Dance at Mashonganavi, I found Ma-sa-wi-ni-ma, Kuchyeampsi's mother,
+busy preparing the dish. When I induced her to come into the sunshine
+to be photographed, stirring the meal, just eight other kodak and
+camera fiends insisted upon "shooting" her at the same time. She was
+very complacent about it, especially when I collected ten cents a head
+for her, and handed her ninety cents for her five minutes' pose.
+
+Her method was as follows: Into a cha-ka-ta (bowl) she placed corn-meal
+and a little coloring matter. Then adding sugar and water, she stirred
+it with a stick, as shown in the photograph. It was made to a thick
+dough. In the meantime a pan of water, into which mutton fat had been
+placed, was on the fire, and when it was hot enough small balls of the
+corn-meal dough were dropped into the water and fat and allowed to
+remain until cooked. The result is a not unpleasant food, of which the
+Hopis are very fond.
+
+One of the common dishes, when a sheep has been killed, is the
+neü-euck´-que-vi, a stew composed of corn, mutton, and chili.
+
+So far the Hopis have not been a success as traders. It is a slow
+and long journey from aboriginal life to civilization. One of the
+young men who had been to school, a bright youth of some twenty-three
+years,--Kuy-an-im´-ti-wa,--was fired with a desire to trade with his
+people on his own account. Permission was given him by the agent to
+start a store. A small building was speedily erected at the foot of
+the Mashonganavi mesa and a stock of goods purchased. For a while
+things went well. Then Kuyanimtiwa had to go away on business, and an
+elderly uncle (I think it was) took charge of the store in his absence.
+When the embryo trader returned he found his shelves nearly empty,
+and a lot of trash accumulated under his counter, which the old man
+had taken "in trade." The credits of many Hopis had been extended and
+enlarged without proper consulting of Bradstreet's or Dun's, and blank
+ruin stared poor Kuyanimtiwa in the face. I purchased about eighty
+dollars' worth of baskets and "truck" from him, for which, however,
+I was compelled to give him my check. For long weeks, indeed months,
+the check did not come in, until I feared the poor fellow had lost it.
+When I inquired I found it was in the hands of the agent, being held as
+security until some disposal was made of a suit between the old man and
+Kuyanimtiwa. It ultimately reached the bank, so I assume the trouble
+was ended, but it will be some time, if what he said has lasting force,
+before the young Hopi will open store again with an untrained assistant.
+
+In an earlier chapter I have shown that the women build and own the
+houses. In return the men knit the stockings and weave the women's
+dresses and sashes. With looms very similar to those described in the
+chapter on "Navaho Blanketry," they make the dresses we have seen
+the women wearing. In the days before the Spaniards introduced sheep
+the Hopis grew cotton quite extensively, dyed it with the simple but
+beautiful and permanent dyes, and wove it into garments. The blue of
+the dresses was originally obtained--and is yet by some--from the seeds
+of the sunflower.
+
+In several cases I have found blind men engaged in knitting stockings.
+With needles of wood, long and slender, their fingers busily moved as
+those of the old housewives used to do in my boyhood's days. One was
+an old man, Tu-ki-i´-ma. He was "si-bo´-si" (blind), and expressed his
+thankfulness for the occupation. Another poor old man, stone blind, was
+winding yarn into a ball. He was squatted upon the ground, with the
+yarn around his feet and knees. It was a pathetic sight to see the old
+and forlorn creature anxious to make himself useful, even though blind
+and aged.
+
+There are a score of other interesting matters I should enjoy referring
+to did space permit, but these must be left for some future time.
+
+That they are picturesque and interesting, and in some of their
+ceremonies fascinating, there is no question. They are religious (in
+their way), domestic, honest, faithful, industrious, and chaste. But
+there is no denying that many of them are dirty,--really, indescribably
+filthy. One of my old drivers, Franklin French, used to say with a
+turn up of his nose: "I'd rather associate with a good skunk who was
+up in the skunk business than get to leeward of a Moki town." Their
+sanitary accommodations are _nil_, and their habits accord with their
+accommodations. Were it not for the fierce rays of the sun and the
+strong winds that purify their elevated mesa-tops, the accumulated
+evils would soon render habitation impossible. Water being so scarce,
+they are not habitually cleanly in person, as are some of the other
+peoples. Hence the contempt with which many of the Navahoes regard them.
+
+Of course there are exceptions, where both houses and individuals are
+as neat and clean as can be. Among Hopis as well as among whites, it is
+not possible to generalize too widely.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+THE RELIGIOUS LIFE OF THE HOPI
+
+
+The Hopi is essentially religious. As a ritualist he has no superior on
+the face of the earth. From the ceremonial standpoint the Hopi people
+are the most religious nation known. From four to sixteen days of
+every month are employed by one society or another in the performance
+of secret religious rites, or in public ceremonies, which, for want
+of a better name, the whites call dances. So complex, indeed, is the
+Hopi's religious life that we have no complete calendar as yet of _all_
+the ceremonies that he feels called upon to observe. Every act of his
+life from the cradle to the grave has a religious side. Fear and the
+need for propitiation are the motive powers of his religious life, and
+these, combined with his stanch conservatism, render him a wonderfully
+fertile subject for study as to the workings of the child mind of the
+human race.
+
+With such a complex and vast religious system this chapter can attempt
+no more than merely to outline or suggest the thoughts upon which his
+religion is based, and then, in brief, describe two or three of the
+most important of his religious ceremonials.
+
+I can do better than attempt a difficult matter, and one that requires
+years of study, viz., to account for the religious concepts of the
+Indian. I can urge the reader to obtain Major J. W. Powell's "Lessons
+of Folk-lore," which appeared in the _American Anthropologist_ for
+January-March, 1900. In it he has written a most fascinating account of
+the thought movements of the Amerind; and Dr. J. Walter Fewkes, in his
+"Interpretation of Katchina Worship," has given a clearer idea of Hopi
+religious belief than has ever before been penned.
+
+[Illustration: GROUP OF HOPI MAIDENS AT SHUNGOPAVI.]
+
+The Hopis themselves are not aware of the why and wherefore of all they
+do. For centuries they have followed "the ways of the old," until they
+are ultra conservatives, especially in matters pertaining to religion.
+
+I have already referred to and described the kivas or underground
+ceremonial chambers, where many of their rites are performed.
+
+Six objects closely connected with their worship should be thoroughly
+understood, as such knowledge will simplify a thousand and one things
+that will otherwise appear mysterious to one who visits the Hopis for
+the first time. These objects are the _baho_ (prayer stick or plume),
+the _puhtabi_ (road marker), the _tiponi_, the _natchi_, the _shrine_,
+and the _katchina_.
+
+The baho is inseparably connected with all religious ceremonies and
+prayers. Without it prayers would be inefficacious. Generally, before
+every ceremony is performed, a certain time is given to the making of
+bahos. One form of baho is made of two sticks, painted green with black
+points, one male and the other female, tied together with a string made
+of native cotton, and cut to a prescribed length. A small corn husk,
+shaped like a funnel and holding a little prayer meal and honey, is
+attached to the sticks at their place of union. Tied to this husk is a
+short, four-stranded cotton string, on the end of which are two small
+feathers. A turkey wing-feather and a sprig of two certain herbs are
+tied so as to protrude above the butt ends of the sticks, and the baho
+is complete.
+
+Other bahos are made of flat pieces of board, anywhere from a foot to
+three feet in length, and two inches or more wide, to which feathers
+and herbs are attached. On the face of these figures of katchinas,
+animals, reptiles, and natural objects, such as rain-clouds, descending
+rain, corn, etc., are painted, every object having a distinct and
+symbolic meaning. In other cases the bahos are carved into the zigzag
+shape of the lightning. The Soyal bahos are many and various. Some
+are long, thin sticks, with cotton strings and feathers attached near
+the ends; others are thicker, with many feathers tied to the centre;
+some are bent or crook-shaped, while still others are long willow
+switches to which eagle, hawk, turkey, flicker, and other feathers
+are tied. They are made with great care and solemnity and prayed over
+and "consecrated" before being used. They are "prayer bearers," the
+feathers symbolizing the birds who used to fly to and from the World of
+the Powers with their messages to mankind and the answers thereto.
+
+The puhtabi (or road marker) is a long piece of native cotton string,
+to which a feather or feathers are attached, and it is placed on the
+trails to mark the beginning of the road (hence its name) to the
+shrines which are to be visited during the ceremonies.
+
+The tiponi is to the Hopi what the cross is to the devout Catholic.
+No altar is complete without it. Altars are often set up with a
+substitute for a tiponi, but all recognize its insufficiency. Tiponis
+vary, that of the Antelope Society being a bunch of long feathers
+(see the photograph in the chapter on the "Snake Dance"), while
+that of the Soyal ceremony is of a quartz crystal inserted into a
+cylindrical-shaped vessel of cottonwood root.
+
+In the Lelentu and Lalakonti ceremonies part of the rites consist in
+an unwrapping of the tiponis. In both of them either kernels of corn
+or other seeds formed essential parts. Dr. Fewkes says: "From chiefs
+of other societies it has been learned that their tiponis likewise
+contained corn, either in grains or on the ear. Although from this
+information one is not justified in concluding that all tiponis contain
+corn, it is probably true with one or two exceptions. The tiponi is
+called the "mother," and an ear of corn given to a novice has the same
+name. There is nothing more precious to an agricultural people than
+seed, and we may well imagine that during the early Hopi migrations the
+danger of losing it may have led to every precaution for its safety.
+Thus it may have happened that it was wrapped in the tiponi and given
+to the chief to guard with all care as a most precious heritage. In
+this manner it became a mere symbol, and as such it persists to-day."
+
+Whenever ceremonies are about to take place in the kivas the chief
+priest puts in place on the ladder-poles or near the hatchway of
+each participating kiva a sign of the fact, called the natchi. This
+I have later described on the Snake and Antelope kivas. At the Soyal
+ceremony on the Kwan (Agave) kiva, the natchi consisted of a bent
+stick, to which were fastened six feathers, representing the Hopi six
+world-quarters. For the north, a yellow feather of the flycatcher or
+warbler; for the west, a blue feather of the bluebird; for the south, a
+red feather of the parrot; for the east, a black-and-white feather of
+the magpie; for the northeast (above), a black feather of the hepatic
+tanager; and for the southwest (below), a feather from an unknown
+source and called _toposhkwa_, representing different colors.
+
+The natchis of two of the kivas in the New Fire ceremony held in Walpi
+in 1898 were sticks, about a foot long, to the ends of which bundles
+of hawk feathers were attached. At another kiva it was an agave stalk,
+at one end of which were attached several crane feathers and a circlet
+of corn husks. A natchi used later by another society consisted of
+a cap-shaped object of basketry, to which were attached two small
+whitened gourds in imitation of horns.
+
+That the natchi is more than a sign of warning to outsiders to keep
+away from the secret rites of the kiva is evidenced by the variety of
+materials used; and, indeed, the things themselves are now known to be
+symbols, to some of which Mr. Voth has learned the key. For instance,
+on the natchi of the Snake and Antelope Societies, the skins of the
+_piwani_--which is supposed to be the weasel--are attached. The Hopis
+say of the animal to whom the skin belongs that when chased into a
+hole, he works his way through the ground so quickly that he escapes
+and "gets out" at some other place. Now see the ceremonial significance
+of the use of this weasel's skin on the Snake natchi. They are supposed
+to affect the clouds and compel them to "come out," so that rain will
+come quickly.
+
+Near all the villages, or on the terraces below, a number of shrines
+may be found where certain of the "Powers" are worshipped. In the
+account of the Snake Dance I speak of the shrine of the Spider Woman,
+and show the photograph made when I followed Tubangointiwa (the
+Antelope chief), and watched him deposit bahos and offer prayers to
+her. The number of shrines is large. I have seen many, but there is not
+space here to describe them. It is an interesting occupation, during
+the ceremonies, to follow the priests, after they have deposited the
+puhtabi and begun to sprinkle the sacred meal, to the shrines. If the
+observer can then have explained to him the deity to whom the shrine is
+dedicated, and his or her place in the Hopi pantheon, his knowledge of
+Hopi worship will be considerably increased.
+
+Of katchinas much might be written. They are ancient ancestral
+representatives of certain Hopi clans who, as spirits of the dead, are
+endowed with powers to aid the living members of the clan in material
+ways. The clans, therefore, pray to them that these material blessings
+may be given. "It is an almost universal idea of primitive man," says
+Fewkes, "that prayers should be addressed to personations of the beings
+worshipped. In the carrying out of this conception men personate the
+katchinas, wearing masks and dressing in the costumes characteristic
+of these beings. These personations represent to the Hopi mind their
+idea of the appearance of these katchinas or clan ancients. The spirit
+beings represented in these personations appear at certain times in
+the pueblo, dancing before spectators, receiving prayer for needed
+blessings, as rain and good crops."
+
+The katchinas are supposed to come to the earth from the underworld in
+February and remain until July, when they say farewell. Hence there
+are two specific times which dramatically celebrate the arrival and
+departure of the katchinas. The former of these times is called by
+the Hopi _Powamû_, and the latter _Niman_. At these festivals, or
+merry dances, certain members of the participating clans wear masks
+representing the katchinas, hence katchina masks are often to be found
+in Hopi houses when one is privileged to see the treasures stored away.
+In order to instruct the children in the many katchinas of the Hopi
+pantheon, _tihûs_, or dolls, are made in imitation of the ancestral
+supernal beings, and these quaint and curious toys are eagerly sought
+after by those interested in Indian life and thought. Dr. Fewkes has in
+his private collection over two hundred and fifty different katchina
+tihûs, and in the Field Columbian Museum there is an even larger
+collection.
+
+Of the altars, screens, fetishes, cloud-blowers, ceremonial pipes,
+bull-roarers, etc., I have not space here to write. Suffice it to
+say they have a large place in the Hopi's ritual and all should be
+carefully studied.
+
+When I first began to visit the Hopis my camps were generally at the
+foot of the trail, as near to water as possible. Every morning at a
+very early hour I was awakened by a loud ringing of cowbells, and at
+first I thought it must be that the Hopis had a herd of cows and they
+were driving them out to pasture. They were evidently going at a good
+speed, for the bells clanged and clattered and jangled as if being
+fiercely shaken. But when I looked for the cows they were never to
+be seen. Then, too, as on succeeding mornings I listened I found the
+animals must be driven very hastily, for the sound moved with great
+rapidity towards, past, away from me.
+
+One morning I determined to get up and watch as soon as I heard the
+noise approaching. It was just as the earliest premonitions of dawn
+were being given that I was awakened, and, hurriedly jumping up, stood
+on my blankets and watched. Soon one, two, four, and more figures
+darted by in the dim light, each carrying a jangling cowbell, and to
+my amazement I found they were not cows, but Hopi young men, naked
+except for a strap or girdle around the loins, from which hung the
+bell, resting upon the haunch. They were out for their morning run, and
+it was not merely a physical exercise, but had a distinct religious
+meaning to them. As I have elsewhere written:--
+
+"The Hopi has lived for many centuries among the harsh conditions of
+the desert land. Everything is wrested from nature. Nothing is given
+freely, as in such a land as southern California for instance. Water
+is scarce and has to be caught in the valley and carried with heavy
+labor to the mesa summit. The soil is sandy and not very productive
+unless every particle of seed corn is watered by irrigation. Firewood
+is far away and must be cut and brought to their mesa homes with labor.
+Wild grass seeds must be sought where grass abounds, perhaps scores of
+miles away, and carried home. Pinion nuts can only be gathered in the
+pinion forests afar off, and to gain mescal the pits must be dug and
+the fibres cooked deep down in the mysterious recesses of the Grand
+Canyon. The deer and antelope are swift, and can only be caught for
+food by those who are stout of limb, powerful of lung, and crafty of
+mind. Hence in the very necessities of their lives they have found the
+use for physical development. And this imperative physical need soon
+graduated into a spiritual one. And the steps or processes of reasoning
+by which the chief motive is transferred from the physical to the
+spiritual are readily traceable. Of course, they are a 'chosen people.'
+'Those Above' have given especial favors to them. They must be a credit
+to those Powers who have thus favored them. This implies a steady
+cultivation of their muscular powers. Not to be strong is to be a bad
+Hopi, and to be a bad Hopi is to court the disfavor of the gods. Hence
+the shamans or priests urge the religious necessity of being swift and
+strong."
+
+[Illustration: HOPI WOMAN WEAVING BASKET, HER HUSBAND KNITTING
+STOCKINGS.]
+
+[Illustration: HOPI WOMAN PREPARING CORN MEAL FOR MAKING DOUGHNUTS.]
+
+Nor is this all. In days gone by they were surrounded by predatory
+foes. Physical endurance was an essential condition of national
+preservation. Without it they would long ago have been starved or
+hunted out of existence. The gods called upon them to preserve
+their national life, to live by cultivation of endurance, hence the
+imposition of physical tasks as a religious exercise.
+
+And these morning runs of the young men were of ten, twenty, and even
+more miles, taken without any other food than a few grains of parched
+corn.
+
+It is no uncommon thing for an Oraibi or Mashonganavi to run from his
+home to Moenkopi, a distance of forty miles, over the hot blazing sands
+of a real American Sahara, there hoe his corn-field, and return to his
+home, within twenty-four hours. The accompanying photograph of an old
+man who had made this eighty-mile run was made the morning after his
+return, and he showed not the slightest trace of fatigue.
+
+For a dollar I have several times engaged a young man to take a message
+from Oraibi to Keam's Canyon, a distance of seventy-two miles, and he
+has run on foot the whole distance, delivered his message, and brought
+me an answer within thirty-six hours.
+
+One Oraibi, Ku-wa-wen-ti-wa, ran from Oraibi to Moenkopi, thence to
+Walpi, and back to Oraibi, a distance of over ninety miles, in one day.
+
+When I was a lad I got the impression somehow that Indians made fire
+by rubbing two sticks together. Once or twice I tried it. I got two
+sticks, perfectly dry, and rubbed and rubbed and rubbed. But the more I
+rubbed, the cooler the sticks seemed to get. I got hot, but that had no
+effect on the sticks.
+
+Later in life, when I began to make my journeys of exploration in the
+wilds of Nevada, California, Arizona, and New Mexico, and I sometimes
+needed a fire, and didn't have a single match left, I tried it again;
+this time not as an experiment, but as a serious proposition. My
+rubbing of the two sticks, however, never availed me a particle. I
+might as well have saved my strength for sawing wood. Yet the Indians
+do get fire by the rubbing of two sticks together, and the occasion
+of their doing it is one of the greatest and most wonderful of the
+religious ceremonies of the Hopis. Dr. Fewkes has written for the
+scientific world a full account of it, and from that account I condense
+the following.
+
+Few white men have ever seen the ceremony, and did they do so and tell
+the whole of what they saw they would not be believed.
+
+Four societies of priests conduct the elaborate rite at Walpi. It is
+not held at Sichumavi or Hano, but is conducted at Oraibi and the three
+villages of the middle mesa. "The public dances are conducted mainly by
+two of the societies, whose actions are of a phallic nature. These two
+act as chorus in the kiva when the fire is made, but the sacred flame
+is kindled by the latter two societies.... For several days before the
+ceremony began, large quantities of wood were piled near the kiva
+hatches, and after the rites began, this fuel was carried down into the
+rooms and continually fed to the flames of the new fire by an old man,
+who never left his task. The flames of the new fire were regarded with
+reverence; no one was allowed to light a cigarette from it or otherwise
+profane it."
+
+On the first day the chiefs assembled for their ceremonial smoke, and
+the next day at early dawn one of them went to the narrow portion of
+the mesa between Walpi and Sichumavi and laid on the trail one of the
+puhtabi, or long strings, elsewhere described, sprinkling a little
+meal and casting a pinch toward the place of sunrise. At the same time
+he said a prayer: "Our Sun, send us rain." Just as the sun appeared
+he "cried" the announcement, of which Dr. Fewkes gives the free
+translation:--
+
+ "All people awake, open your eyes, arise!
+ Become _Talahoya_ (Child of Light), vigorous, active, sprightly.
+ Hasten, Clouds, from the four world quarters.
+ Come, Snow, in plenty, that water may be abundant when summer
+ comes.
+ Come, Ice, and cover the fields, that after planting they may yield
+ abundantly.
+ Let all hearts be glad.
+ The Wüwūtchimtû will assemble in four days.
+ They will encircle the villages, dancing and singing their lays.
+ Let the women be ready to pour water upon them,
+ That moisture may come in abundance and all shall rejoice."
+
+Four days later, with elaborate preparation and carefully observed
+ritual the new fire was made. About a hundred participants were
+present. When all were ready the fire-board was held in position by two
+kneeling men, while two others manipulated the fire drill. The singing
+chief then gave the signal and two societies started a song, each with
+different words and yet in unison, accompanied by clanging of bells and
+rattling of tortoise shells and deer hoofs. The holes of the fire-board
+and stones were sprinkled with corn pollen. The spindle or fire drill
+was held vertically between the palms, and in rotating it the top was
+pressed downward. Smoke was produced in twenty seconds and a spark of
+fire in about a minute. The spark smudged cedar-bark, which was put
+in place to catch it, and then the driller blew it into a flame. This
+flame was then carried to a pile of greasewood placed in the fireplace,
+and as the wood blazed to the ceiling the song ceased. Prayer was
+then offered by one of the chief priests of one of the societies and
+ceremonial offerings sprinkled into the fire. This priest was followed
+by one from each of the other societies and by individual worshippers.
+
+They then, in procession, paid a ceremonial visit to the shrine of the
+Goddess of Germs, which is among the rocks at the southwestern point of
+the mesa. It is made of flat stones set on edge, opened above and on
+one side, and consists of a fetish of petrified wood.
+
+Then followed a complex series of ceremonies that merely to outline
+would require several pages. Some of them are public dances, others
+dramatic representations in a crude fashion of what the legends of the
+Hopis say are certain events which transpired in the underworld, and a
+most important one is the disposal of the sacred embers of the new fire.
+
+There are few ceremonies in the world that equal in solemnity and
+interest, and that are more charming, than those performed by the
+parents and other relatives when a Hopi baby comes into the world.
+There are religion, affection, sentiment, and poetry embraced in what
+we--the superior people--would undoubtedly term the superstitious rites
+of these simple-hearted people. One reason for the fervor of this rite
+is the genuine welcome every Hopi mother and father accord to their
+baby when it is born. It is "good form" among them to be proud of the
+birth of their children. No married woman is happy unless she has a
+"quiver full" of children, and one of her constant prayers before her
+marriage is that she may be thus blessed.
+
+So when the child comes there is great rejoicing. It is immediately
+rubbed all over with ashes to keep the hair from growing on the body;
+or that, at least, is the reason the Hopi mother gives for allowing her
+little one to be scrubbed all over with the ashes.
+
+Then it is wrapped up in a cotton blanket of the mother's own weaving,
+for Hopi women, and men also, are great experts in growing, spinning,
+and weaving cotton. Now it is ready for the cradle. This is either a
+piece of board or a flat piece of woven wicker-work about two and a
+half feet long and a foot wide. There is also fixed at the upper end
+two or three twigs arranged in a kind of bow, so that a piece of cloth
+thrown over them forms an awning to protect the face of the child from
+the sun. When this bow is not in use it can be slipped over to the
+back of the cradle. Strapped in this queer cradle, the baby is either
+stretched out upon the ground to go to sleep, covered over with a
+blanket, or reared up against the wall. But if your eyes were keen you
+would see by its side a beautiful white ear of corn. And if you saw it
+and knew the Hopi mother's ways and her thoughts, you would find that
+the reason for putting the corn there was this: she believes that the
+corn represents one of her most powerful gods on the earth, and that if
+this god is made to feel kindly towards the new-born child he will send
+it good health and strength and skill in hunting and everything else
+that she desires for her loved baby. So, you see, it is mother love,
+combined with a singular superstition, that makes the Hopi mother place
+the ear of corn by the side of her sleeping child.
+
+When the baby is twenty days old it is--shall I say?--baptized. You
+can hardly call it this, but, anyhow, it answers the same thing as
+baptism does with us. About sunset the child's godmother arrives. She
+is generally the grandmother or aunt on the father's side. Just as the
+first streaks of light begin to come in the early morning the ceremony
+begins. After washing the mother's head and legs and feet, the baby's
+turn comes. The house is full of relatives and friends to watch and
+bring good fortune to the little one. A bowl of suds is made by beating
+the soapweed until the water is covered with beautiful lather. Then
+the godmother takes an ear of corn, dips it into the suds, and touches
+the baby's head with it. This she does four times. Then she washes the
+baby's head very carefully and thoroughly in the suds. But the washing
+would be of no good unless all the baby's female relatives on the
+father's side were to dip their ears of corn into the suds and touch
+its head with them four times, just as the godmother did. Now the baby
+is washed all over, and then--strange to say--the godmother fills her
+mouth full of warm water, and, balancing the baby on one hand, she
+squirts the water from her mouth all over the little one. To dry it,
+she holds it before the fire, and when it is quite dry she rubs it
+with white corn-meal, wraps it in a blanket, and passes it over to the
+mother, who is seated near to the fire. Just before her are two baskets
+full of corn-meal, one coarsely and one finely ground. Taking an old
+blanket, the godmother spreads it over the mother's lap, the baby is
+placed on it, then she takes a little of the fine meal and rubs it on
+the face, arms, and neck of the mother, and also upon the face of the
+child. Then with the ear of corn in her hand, and slowly and regularly
+moving it up and down, she prays first over the mother, then over the
+baby. I have heard several of these prayers. Here is one of them:
+"Ho-ko-na (butterfly), I ask for you that you live to be old, that you
+may never be sick, that you may have good corn and all good things. And
+now I name you Ho-ko-na" (or whatever the name is to be).
+
+Then every woman and girl of the father's relatives does just the same
+and prays the same kind of prayer; but singular to us is the fact that
+each one gives the child any name she prefers. As each one finishes her
+prayer, she gives her ear of corn and some sacred meal she has brought
+with her to the mother, who invariably responds with the Hopi "Thank
+you!"--"Es-kwa-li."
+
+Nobody knows at the time which name the baby will have, as he or she
+grows up. That is left to chance to determine--generally the preference
+of the mother.
+
+Now the baby is put in its cradle, with some of the ears of corn
+presented to the mother placed under the lacing on the breast of the
+little one, and it is ready to be dedicated to the sun. After sweeping
+the floor, the godmother sprinkles a line of meal about two inches wide
+from the cradle to the door, and the mother does the same thing.
+
+[Illustration: HOPI "BOOMERANGS."
+
+_In the collection of George Wharton James._]
+
+[Illustration: HOPI CEREMONIAL DRUMS.
+
+_In the collection of George Wharton James._]
+
+Out of doors the father is anxiously watching for the first direct
+light of the sun, and the moment it appears above the horizon he gives
+the signal. Immediately the godmother picks up the cradle, so that the
+baby's head is towards the door, and near to the floor, carries it over
+the line of sacred meal, the mother following. Each has a handful of
+meal. At the door they stand side by side. The godmother removes the
+blanket from the baby's face, holds the sacred meal to her mouth, says
+a short prayer, and then sprinkles the meal towards the sun, and then
+the mother does the same; and, after ceremonially feeding the baby, all
+joining in the feast, the ceremony is at an end.
+
+Another most beautiful ceremony of the Hopis is that which alternates
+with the Snake Dance, viz., the Lelentu, or Flute Dance. I have had
+the pleasure of witnessing it several times, and last year (1901) was
+one of five white persons present. To me this meant walking a weary
+thirteen miles over the hot sands of the Painted Desert, carrying a
+camera weighing about fifty pounds on my back. But the beauty and charm
+of the ceremony and the satisfaction of obtaining the photographs of it
+more than repaid me for the hot and exhausting walk.
+
+After the secret kiva ceremonies (rites in the underground chambers of
+the fraternity of the Flute) the first public rites of the day took
+place at a spring near the home of Lolúlomai, the chief of the Oraibi
+pueblo, and about five miles west of the town. Here is one of the
+pitiful springs upon which the people depend for their meagre supply
+of water. Just before noon men, women, and girls might have been seen
+wending their way from the village on the mesa height, down the steep
+trails, over the sandy way trodden for centuries by their forefathers,
+towards the location of the spring.
+
+Every face was as serious and wore as grave and earnest an expression
+as that of a novice about to be confirmed in her holiest vows. Arrived
+at the spring, an eminence just above it to the southwest was the
+chosen site for the preliminaries. Here an hour or more was spent in
+prayers, sprinkling of meal before and upon the altar, and the painting
+of the symbols of the clan upon the participants.
+
+Other priests during the whole time were on their knees or in other
+postures of reverence, praying, singing, or chanting, and sprinkling
+the sacred meal on or before the altar. A large number of bahos, or
+prayer sticks and plumes, were used.
+
+At this time the chief priest left the hillside and solemnly marched
+down to the spring. It is circular in shape, and with a rude wall built
+around it. At the opening in the circle three small gourd vessels
+were placed, two of which held sacred water from some far-away spring,
+and the other was full of honey. A singular thing occurred about the
+filling of this honey jar. A nest of bees had located in the wall of
+the spring, and the chief priest, taking it for granted that this was a
+good sign, had the nest dug out and the honey extracted from the comb,
+for his sacred purposes. After he had prayed for a while the priests
+and women from above marched down, all except the flute players. As
+they stood around the spring they sang and prayed, while the chief
+priest stepped into the water, bowing his face down over it, and waving
+his tiponi in and through it. Soon it was a filthy, muddy mess, instead
+of a water spring, and when it seemed mixed up enough he began to dip
+his face deep into it, while the men and women around continued their
+singing and worship.
+
+Then he came forth, and now began a most beautiful processional march
+around the spring, in time to the weird playing of the priests above.
+After three times circling around, the group stood, facing the west,
+and at certain signals sprinkled large handfuls of sacred meal in the
+direction of the water. This was followed by a most profuse scattering
+of bahos in the same manner. Literally hundreds of them were thus
+thrown, and I gathered (after the celebrants were gone) scores of them
+for my collection. The bahos used on this occasion were mere downy
+feathers to which cotton strings were attached. The effect as the
+meal and the feathers were thrown was remarkably beautiful, and the
+scene was most impressive; none the less so for its strangeness and
+peculiarity.
+
+These concluded the ceremonies at this spring. In the meantime the
+chief priest had gone to his house over the hill, and from there had
+started out a group of young men who were to race to the spring near
+the mesa--four miles away. It was a scorching hot day--as I had found
+out in my own walk--and yet these young men bounded over the sandy
+trail like hunted deer. It was a glorious sight to witness them. Ten
+or a dozen athletic youths, clad scantily, their bronzed figures in
+perfect proportion, revealing their strength and power, their long
+black hair waving out behind them, darting off like strings from a bow
+across the desert.
+
+Slowly we followed them, and when we arrived at the other spring found
+they had long ago passed it, and the victor had received his reward.
+
+Similar ceremonies were gone through at the near-by spring as at the
+one farther away, and when they were completed the whole party formed
+in procession, and as solemnly as if it were a funeral march proceeded
+up the steep trail to the village and there repeated some of the
+ceremonies already described.
+
+The purport of all this it is comparatively easy to understand. The
+Snake Dance is a prayer for rain, which, according to the Hopi's
+ideas, is stored in vast reservoirs in the heavens. He also believes
+that there are vast water supplies under the earth, and so, every
+other year, he petitions the powers that govern and control these
+subterranean reservoirs to loosen the waters and let them flow forth
+into the springs.
+
+In one of the dances of the Navaho they symbolize the water from
+above and the water from below by linking the first fingers together.
+This gives us the Greek fret, and when this symbol is copied in their
+basketry, we see this classic design, purely the result of imitation,
+and having as clear a meaning to the Indian mind as the cross has to
+the Christian.
+
+Reluctantly I am compelled to omit a brief account of the Basket Dance,
+which, however, I have partially described in my book on "Indian
+Basketry."
+
+The Hopis have very clear and distinct conceptions of a spirit life
+beyond the grave. It is not the "happy hunting-ground," though, to
+which the general ideas of the whites consign them. Theirs is a world
+of spirits, with some advantages over the world of human beings, but
+where life is very similar to what it was on earth. There is neither
+punishment awarded for wrong done on earth, nor reward for good living.
+It is simply a continuation of previous existences. When a child is
+born the spirit is supposed to come from the underworld through an
+opening in the earth's crust called _Shi-pá-pu_, and when the grown man
+dies his spirit returns thither. His body is buried in a cleft of the
+rocks on the mesa side, a mile or so away from the village. The body is
+wrapped up and placed in the rocky grave, and then covered with loose
+rocks. Food and drink are placed on the grave, so that when the spirit
+ascends from the body and begins its long journey to _Shi-pá-pu_ and
+thence to the underworld, it may have food wherewith to gain strength.
+The curious visitor will also notice the baho which is thrust between
+the rocks until it touches the body. Another baho touching this upright
+one is placed on the grave pointing toward the southwest. These bahos
+are especially prepared by the shaman, or "medicine man," and are for
+the purpose of guiding the spirit as it leaves the body. If no baho
+were there, the spirit might grope in darkness, trying to force its way
+down; but, being directed by the prayers of the shaman, the disembodied
+spirit immediately realizes the guiding power of the baho, and,
+following it, reaches the companion baho pointing to the southwest,
+the direction it must travel to reach the entrance to the underworld.
+This entrance to the underworld was long thought to be in the San
+Francisco Mountains near Flagstaff. But Dr. Fewkes explains this to be
+an error. The _Shi-pá-pu_ is, to the Hopi, the "sun-house or place of
+sunset at the winter solstice. As seen from Walpi, the entrance to the
+sun-house is indicated by a notch on the horizon situated between the
+San Francisco range and the Eldon mesa," hence the conception that the
+entrance to the underworld was in that exact location.
+
+[Illustration: A HOPI BELLE AT SHUNGOPAVI.]
+
+[Illustration: BLIND HOPI BOY, KNITTING STOCKINGS.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+THE HOPI SNAKE DANCE
+
+
+While perhaps no more important than others of the many ceremonies
+of the Hopis, the Snake Dance is by far the widest known and most
+exciting and thrilling to the spectator. There have been many accounts
+of it written, yet no less an authority than Dr. Jesse Walter Fewkes
+of the Smithsonian Institution asserts that the major portion of them
+are not worth the paper they are written on. Inaccurate in outline,
+faulty in detail, they utterly fail, in the most part, to grasp the
+deep importance of the ceremony to the religious Hopis. It is commonly
+described as a wild, chaotic, yelling, shouting, pagan dance, instead
+of the solemn dignified rite it is. From various articles of my own
+written at different times I mainly extract the following account and
+explanations.
+
+This dance alternates in each village with the Lelentu, or Flute
+ceremony, so that, if the visitor goes on successive years to the same
+village, he will see one year the Snake Dance and on the following
+year the Lelentu. But if he alternates his visits to the different
+villages he may see the Snake Dance every year, and, as the ceremonies
+are not all held simultaneously, he may witness the open-air portion
+of the ceremony, which is the Snake Dance proper, three times on the
+even years and twice on the odd years. For instance, in the year 1905
+it will occur at Walpi and Mashonganavi; and in 1906 at Oraibi,
+Shipauluvi, and Shungopavi.
+
+[Illustration: THE BEGINNING OF THE HOPI SNAKE DANCE, ORAIBI, 1902.]
+
+The Hopis are keen observers of all celestial and terrestrial
+phenomena, and, as soon as the month of August draws near, the Snake
+and Antelope fraternities meet in joint session to determine, by the
+meteorological signs with which they are familiar, the date upon which
+the ceremonies shall begin.
+
+This decided, the public crier is called upon to make the announcement
+to the whole people. Standing on the house-top, in a peculiarly
+monotonous and yet jerky shout he announces the time when the elders
+have decided the rites shall commence. Sometimes, as at Walpi, this
+announcement is made sixteen days before the active ceremonies begin,
+the latter, in all the villages, lasting nine days and terminating in
+the popularly known open-air dance, after which four days of feasting
+and frolic are indulged in, thus making, in all, twenty days devoted to
+the observance.
+
+For all practical purposes, however, nine days cover all the ceremonies
+connected with it.
+
+At Walpi, on the first of the nine days, the first ceremony consists
+of the "setting up" of the Antelope altar. This is an interesting
+spectacle to witness, as at Walpi the altar is more elaborate and
+complex than in any other village. It consists, for the greater part,
+of a mosaic made of different colored sands, in the use of which some
+of the Hopis are very dexterous. These sands are sprinkled on the
+floor. First a border is made of several parallel rows or lines of
+different colors. Within this border clouds are represented, below
+which four zigzag lines are made. These lines figure the lightning,
+which is the symbol of the Antelope fraternity. Two of these zigzags
+are male, and two female, for all things, even inanimate, have sex
+among this strange people. In the place of honor, on the edge of
+the altar, is placed the "tiponi," or palladium of the fraternity.
+This consists of a bunch of feathers, fastened at the bottom with
+cotton strings to a round piece of cottonwood. Corn stalks, placed
+in earthenware jars, are also to be seen, and then the whole of the
+remaining three sides of the altar are surrounded by crooks, to
+which feathers are attached, and bahos, or prayer sticks. It was
+with trepidation I dared to take my camera into the mystic depths of
+the Antelope kiva. I had guessed at focus for the altar, and when I
+placed the camera against the wall, pointed toward the sacred place,
+the Antelope priests bid me remove it immediately. I begged to have
+it remain so long as I stayed, but was compelled to promise I would
+not place my head under the black cloth and look at the altar. This I
+readily promised, but at the first opportunity when no one was between
+the lens and the altar, I quietly removed the cap from the lens,
+marched away and sat down with one of the priests, while the dim light
+performed its wonderful work on the sensitive plate. A fine photograph
+was the result.
+
+The ceremonies of the Antelope kiva for the succeeding days consist of
+the making of bahos, or prayer sticks, ceremonial smoking, praying, and
+singing. But the profound ritualistic importance attached to every act
+can scarcely be estimated by those who have not personally seen the
+ceremonies. The prayer sticks are prayed over and consecrated at every
+step in their manufacture, and the altar is prayed over and blessed
+each day. Every object used is consecrated with elaborate ritual,
+and the great smoke is made by each one solemnly participating in the
+smoking of _ómowûh_ (the sacred pipe). The smoke from this pipe soon
+fills the chamber with its pleasant fragrance (the tobacco used being
+a weed native to the Hopi region), and it is supposed to ascend to the
+heavens and thus provoke the descent of the rain.
+
+The songs are sung to the accompaniment of rattling by the priests, and
+each day the whole of the sixteen songs are rendered.
+
+During the singing of one day one of the priests strikes the floor
+with a blunt instrument, and Wiki, the chief priest, explained this
+as the sending of a mystic message to a member of the Snake-Antelope
+fraternity at far-away Acoma, telling him that the ceremonies were now
+in progress and asking him to come. Strange to say, eight days later,
+certain Acomas did come, thus giving color to the assertion of the Hopi
+fraternities that the Snake Dance once used to be performed on the
+glorious penyol height of Acoma, as was briefly stated by Espejo.
+
+It is in the Snake kiva that the snake charm liquid is made. In the
+centre of a special altar a basket made by a Havasupai Indian is
+placed. In this are dropped some shells, charms, and a few pieces of
+crushed nuts and sticks. Then one of the priests, with considerable
+ritual, pours into the basket from north, west, south, east, up and
+down (the six cardinal points of the Hopi), liquid from a gourd vessel.
+By this time all the priests are squatted around the basket, chewing
+something that one of the older priests had given them. This chewed
+substance is then placed in the liquid of the basket. Water from gourds
+on the roof is also put in.
+
+Then all is ready for the preparation of the charm. Each priest
+holds in his hand the snake whip (a stick to which eagle feathers
+are attached), while the ceremonial pipe-lighter, after lighting the
+sacred pipe, hands it to the chief priest, addressing him in terms of
+relationship. Smoking it in silence, the chief puffs the smoke into the
+liquid and hands it to his neighbor, who does the like and passes it
+on. All thus participate in solemn silence.
+
+Then the chief priest picks up his rattle and begins a prayer which is
+as fervent as one could desire. Shaking the rattle, all the priests
+commence to sing a weird song in rapid time, while one of them holds
+upright in the middle of the basket a black stick, on the top of which
+is tied a feather. Moving their snake whips to and fro, they sing four
+songs, when one of the chiefs picks up all the objects on the altar and
+places them in the basket.
+
+In a moment the kiva rings with the fierce yells of the Hopi war-cry,
+while the priest vigorously stirs the mixture in the basket. And the
+rapid song is sung while the priest stirs and kneads the contents of
+the basket with his hands. Sacred meal is cast into the mixture, while
+the song sinks to low tones, and gradually dies away altogether, though
+the quiet shaking of the rattles and gentle tremor of the snake whips
+continue for a short time.
+
+Then there is a most painful silence. The hush is intense, the
+stillness perfect. It is broken by the prayer of the chief priest, who
+sprinkles more sacred meal into the mixture. Others do the same. The
+liquid is again stirred, and then sprinkled to all the cardinal points,
+and the same is done in the air outside, above the kiva.
+
+Then the stirring priest takes some white earth, and mixing it with the
+charm liquid, makes white paint which he rubs upon the breast, back,
+cheeks, forearms, and legs of the chief priest. All the other priests
+are then likewise painted.
+
+[Illustration: THE CHIEF ANTELOPE PRIEST DEPOSITING PAHOS AT THE SHRINE
+OF THE SPIDER WOMAN.]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+COPYRIGHT 1896 F. H. MAUDE
+
+THROWING THE SNAKES INTO THE CIRCLE OF SACRED MEAL.]
+
+Now there is nothing whatever in this liquid that can either charm a
+snake or preserve an Indian from the deadly nature of its bite. Even
+the Hopis know that all its virtue is communicated in the ceremonies I
+have so imperfectly and inadequately described. I make this explanation
+lest my reader assume that there is some subtle poison used in this
+mixture, which, if given to the snakes, stupefies them and renders them
+unable to do injury.
+
+The singing of the sixteen songs referred to is a most solemn affair.
+Snake and Antelope priests meet in the kiva of the latter. The chief
+priests take their places at the head of the altar, and the others
+line up on either side, the Snake priests to the left, the Antelope
+to the right. Kneeling on one knee, the two rows of men, with naked
+bodies, solemn faces, bowed heads, no voice speaking above a whisper,
+demand respect for their earnestness and evident sincerity. To one
+unacquainted with their language and the meaning of the songs, the
+weird spectacle of all these nude priests, kneeling and solemnly
+chanting in a sonorous humming manner, their voices occasionally rising
+in a grand crescendo, speedily to diminish in a thrilling pianissimo,
+produces a seriousness wonderfully akin to the spirit of worship.
+
+According to the legendary lore of the Snake clan the Zunis, Hopis,
+Paiutis, Havasupais, and white men all made their ascent from the lower
+world to the earth's surface through a portion of Pis-is-bai-ya (the
+Grand Canyon of the Colorado River) near where the Little Colorado
+empties into the main river. As the various families emerged, some
+went north and some south. Those that went north were driven back by
+fierce cold which they encountered, and built houses for themselves at
+a place called To-ko-ná-bi. But, unfortunately, this was a desert place
+where but little rain fell, and their corn could not grow. In their
+pathetic language the Hopis say, "The clouds were small and the corn
+weak." The chief of the village had two sons and two daughters. The
+oldest of these sons, Tiyo, resolved to commit himself to the waters of
+the Colorado River, for they, he was convinced, would convey him to the
+underworld, where he could learn from the gods how always to be assured
+of their favor.
+
+(This idea of the Colorado River flowing to the underworld is
+interesting as illustrative of Hopi reasoning. They said, and still
+say, this water flows from the upperworld in the far-away mountains, it
+flows on and on and never returns, therefore it must go to the inner
+recesses of the underworld.)
+
+Tiyo made for himself a kind of coffin boat from the hewed-out trunk
+of a cottonwood tree. Into this he sealed himself and was committed to
+the care of the raging river. His rude boat dashed down the rapids,
+over the falls, into the secret bowels of the earth (for the Indians
+still believe the river disappears under the mountainous rocks), and
+finally came to a stop. Tiyo looked out of his peepholes and saw the
+Spider Woman, who invited him to leave his boat and enter her house.
+The Spider Woman is a personage of great power in Hopi mythology.
+She it is who weaves the clouds in the heavens, and makes the rain
+possible. Tiyo accepted the invitation, entered her house, and received
+from her a powder which gave him the power to become invisible at
+will. Following the instructions of the Spider Woman, he descended
+the hatch-like entrance to Shi-pá-pu, and soon came to the chamber
+of the Snake-Antelope people. Here the chief received him with great
+cordiality, and said:--
+
+ "I cause the rain clouds to come and go,
+ And I make the ripening winds to blow;
+ I direct the going and coming of all the mountain animals.
+ Before you return to the earth you will desire of me many things,
+ Freely ask of me and you shall abundantly receive."
+
+For a while he wandered about in the underworld, learning this and
+that, here and yonder, and at last returned to the Snake-Antelope and
+Snake kivas. Here he learned all the necessary ceremonies for making
+the rain clouds come and go, the ripening winds to blow, and to order
+the coming and going of the animals. With words of affection the chief
+bestowed upon him various things from both the kivas, such as material
+of which the snake kilt was to be made, with instructions as to its
+weaving and decoration, sands to make the altars, etc. Then he brought
+to Tiyo two maidens, both of whom knew the snake-bite charm liquid,
+and instructed him that one was to be his wife and the other the wife
+of his brother, to whom he must convey her in safety. Then, finally,
+he gave to him the "tiponi," the sacred standard, and told him, "This
+is your mother. She must ever be protected and revered. In all your
+prayers and worship let her be at the head of your altar or your words
+will not reach Those Above."
+
+Tiyo now started on his return journey. When he reached the home of
+the Spider Woman, she bade him and the maidens rest while she wove a
+pannier-like basket, deep and narrow, with room to hold all three of
+them. When the basket was finished she saw them comfortably seated,
+told them not to leave the basket, and immediately disappeared through
+the hatch into the lower world. Tiyo and the maidens waited, until
+slowly a filament gently descended from the clouds, attached itself to
+the basket, and then carefully and safely drew Tiyo and the maidens to
+the upperworld. Tiyo gave the younger maiden to his brother, and then
+announced that in sixteen days he would celebrate the marriage feast.
+Then he and his betrothed retired to the Snake-Antelope kiva, while his
+brother and the other maiden retired to the Snake kiva. On the fifth
+day after the announcement the Snake people from the underworld came to
+the upperworld, went to the kivas, and ate corn pollen for food. Then
+they left the kivas and disappeared. But Tiyo and the maidens knew that
+they had only changed their appearance, for they were in the valley in
+the form of snakes and other reptiles. So he commanded his people to
+go into the valleys and capture them, bring them to the kivas and wash
+them and then dance with them. Four days were spent in catching them
+from the four world quarters; then, with solemn ceremony, they were
+washed, and, while the prayers were offered, the snakes listened to
+them, so that when, at the close of the dance, where they danced with
+their human brothers, they were taken back to the valley and released,
+they were able to return to the underworld and carry to the gods there
+the petitions that their human brothers had uttered upon the earth.
+
+This, in the main, is the snake legend. The catching of the snakes
+foreshadowed in the snake legend is faithfully carried out each year
+by the Snake men. After earnest prayer, each man is provided with a
+hoe, a snake whip, consisting of feathers tied to two sticks, a sack
+of sacred meal (corn-meal especially prayed and smoked over by the
+chief priest), and a small buckskin bag, and on the fourth day after
+the setting up of the Antelope altar they go out to the north for the
+purpose of catching the snakes. Familiarity from childhood with the
+haunts of the snakes, which are never molested, enables them to go
+almost directly to places where they may be found. As soon as a reptile
+is seen, prayers are offered, sacred meal sprinkled upon him, the snake
+whip gently stroked upon him, and then he is seized and placed in the
+bag. In the evening the priests return and deposit their snakes in a
+large earthenware olla provided for the occasion. I should have noted
+that before they go out their altar is erected. This varies in the
+different villages, the most complete and perfect altar being at Walpi.
+At Oraibi the altar consists of the two wooden images--the little war
+gods--named Pü-ü-kon-hoy-a and Pal-un-hoy-a; and in 1898 I succeeded,
+with considerable difficulty, in getting into the Snake kiva and making
+a fairly good photograph of these gods.
+
+[Illustration: LINE-UP OF SNAKE AND ANTELOPE PRIESTS, ANTELOPE
+DANCE, ORAIBI, 1902.]
+
+The catching of the snakes occupies four days, one day for each of the
+four world quarters.
+
+At near sunset of the eighth day a public dance of the Antelope priests
+takes place in the plaza, similar in many respects to the Snake Dance,
+except that corn stalks are carried by the priests instead of snakes.
+
+On the morning of the ninth day the race of the young men occurs.
+This is an exciting scene. Long before sunrise the Hopis, and as
+many visitors as have climbed the mesa heights, huddle together or
+sleepily sit watching a point far off in the desert. It is from that
+region--one of the springs--the racers are to come. Soon they are
+seen in the far-away distance as tiny specks, moving over the tawny
+sand, and scarcely distinguishable. One morning I stayed below at the
+spring on the western side of the mesa to watch them. The whole line of
+the mesa-top ruled an irregular but clearly defined line against the
+morning sky. The air was clear and pure, sweet and cool. From the Gap
+to the end of the mesa upon which Walpi stands crowds of spectators
+were silhouetted against the sky. The background, seen from my low
+angle of vision, was a pure blue; above, the sky was mottled with white
+clouds. On every projecting point which afforded a view the spectators
+stood, tiny figures taken from a child's Noah's Ark, chunky bodies,
+with a crowning ball of wood for head. But even at that distance and
+against the coming sunlight the brilliant colors of the dresses of the
+Indians, men and women, were revealed. Every note in the gorgeous gamut
+of color was played in fantastic and unrestrained melody. At Walpi the
+spectators crowded the house-tops, which there overlook the very edge
+of the mesa. The point was crowded. The morning light was just touching
+the cliffs of the west when the sound of the coming bells was heard.
+Jingle, jingle, jingle, they came, growing in sound at every step.
+There was movement among the spectators, each one craning his neck
+to see the strenuous efforts of the runners. Jingle, jingle, jingle,
+louder and louder, showing that the strides of these runners are great;
+they are making rapid bites at the distance that intervenes between
+them and the goal. Now they can be individually discerned. Their
+reddish-brown bodies, long black hair streaming behind, sunflowers
+crowning some, heaving chests, tremendous strides, swinging gait, make
+a fascinating picture. Now they crowd each other on the sandy trail. A
+spurt is being made, and one of the rear men passes to the front and
+becomes the leader. From the mesa heights the shouts and cheers denote
+that his success has been observed. Others crowd along. The spectators
+become excited and cheer on their favorites. Now the foot of the
+steep portion of the trail is reached. Surely this precipitous ascent
+will abate their ardor and slacken their speed. The steps are high,
+and it is a rise of several hundred feet to the mesa-top. The very
+difficulties seem to spur them on to greater effort. With bounds like
+those of deer or chamois, up they fly, two steps at a time. The pace
+and ascent are killing, but they are trained to it, having spent their
+lives running over these hot sands and climbing these trails. To them a
+"rush" up the mesa heights is a part of their religious training. The
+priests are now ready to receive them at the head of the trail. The
+first to arrive is the winner, and he is sprinkled with the sacred meal
+and water, and then he hurries on to the Antelope kiva, where the chief
+priest gives him bahos, sacred meal, and an amulet of great power.
+The other racers in the meantime have reached the summit, and I could
+see their running figures on the narrow neck of rock which connects
+Sichumavi with Walpi. They are going to deposit prayer offerings at an
+appointed shrine. On their arrival the race is done.
+
+On the arrival of the racers at the head of the trail at Mashonganavi,
+in 1901, I secured a photograph showing one of the priests shooting out
+a singular appliance which represents the lightning.
+
+But on the lower platform of the mesa another exciting scene is
+transpiring. A group of young maidens, with their mothers and sisters,
+await the coming of young men and boys, each of whom carries a corn
+stalk, a melon, or a sunflower. As soon as the youths arrive the
+maidens dart after them, and for a few minutes a good-natured but
+exciting and excitable scuffle goes on, in which the girls endeavor to
+seize from the boys the stalks, etc., they carry.
+
+On the noon of the ninth day the ceremony of washing the snakes takes
+place in the Snake kiva.
+
+It must not be forgotten that only the members of the fraternity
+engaged in the ceremonies are permitted to enter the kivas when the
+rites are being performed. Indeed, no other Hopi can be prevailed upon
+to approach anywhere near these kivas whilst the symbol which denotes
+that the ceremonies are being conducted is displayed.
+
+Indeed, he believes that his profaning foot will immediately produce
+the most awful effects upon his body. At one kiva he will swell up and
+"burst"; at another, a great horn will grow out from his forehead and
+he will die in horrible agonies. The first time I was permitted to see
+this ceremony at Walpi was while Kopeli was alive. Kopeli was a Hopi
+of great power and ability in a variety of ways, who had a broad way
+of looking at things, and was very friendly with the white men who
+came in the proper spirit to study the life of his people. I had been
+allowed to see all the earlier of the secret kiva ceremonies, but when
+the day arrived on which the snakes were to be washed in the kiva,
+Kopeli was especially concerned on my behalf. He said: "So far 'Those
+Above' have not found any fault, and you have not been harmed in the
+kiva; but to-day we wash the snakes. You will surely be in danger if
+you gaze upon the 'elder brothers.'" Placing my arm around his lithe
+body, I gave Kopeli an unexpected dig in the stomach. Then I said,
+quite solemnly: "Kopeli, your stomach is a Hopi one; you swell up and
+bust easy. But feel of me"--and, taking his thumb, I gave myself a
+"dig" with it _upon a solid pocketbook_ which I carried in my vest
+pocket. "Do you feel that?" I asked. "Yes," he replied. "And you sabe
+white man's steam-engine, Kopeli, down on the railroad?" "Yes! I sabe."
+"Well," said I, "that steam-engine is made of boiler-iron, and _I am
+all same boiler-iron inside_. I no bust!"
+
+[Illustration: THE SNAKE DANCE AT ORAIBI, 1902.]
+
+With a merry twinkle in his eye, that showed he appreciated the joke,
+he said, "Mabbe so! You no bust; you stay!" And I stayed.
+
+This washing ceremony is a purely ceremonial observance. The priests
+have ceremonially washed themselves, but their snake brothers are
+unable to do this, hence they must have it done for them.
+
+In the underground kiva, hewn out of the solid rock--a place some
+sixteen feet square--squat or sit the thirty-four or five priests.
+I was allowed to take my place right among them and to join in the
+singing. When all was ready the chief priest reverently uttered prayer,
+followed by another priest, who, after prayer, started the singing.
+Three or four of the older priests were seated around a large bowl full
+of water brought from some sacred spring many, many miles away. This
+water was blessed by smoking and breathing upon it and presenting it
+successively to the powers of the six world points, north, west, south,
+east, up and down.
+
+At a given signal two men thrust their hands into the snake-containing
+ollas, and drew therefrom one or two writhing, wriggling reptiles.
+These they handed to the priests of the sacred water. All this time
+the singing, accompanied by the shaking of the rattles, continued. As
+the snakes were dipped again and again into the water, the force of
+the singing increased until it was a tornado of sound. Suddenly the
+priests who were washing the snakes withdrew them from the water and
+threw them over the heads of the sitting priests upon the sand of the
+sacred altar at the other end of the room. Simultaneously with the
+throwing half of the singing priests ceased their song and burst out
+into a blood-curdling yell, "Ow! Ow! Ow! Ow! Ow! Ow!" which is the Hopi
+war-cry.
+
+Then, in a moment, all was quiet, more snakes were brought and washed,
+the singing and rattling beginning at a pianissimo and gradually
+increasing to a quadruple forte, when again the snakes were thrown upon
+the altar, with the shrieking voices yelling "Ow! Ow!" in a piercing
+falsetto, as before. The effect was simply horrifying. The dimly
+lighted kiva, the solemn, monotonous hum of the priests, the splashing
+of the wriggling reptiles in the water, the serious and earnest
+countenances of the participants, the throwing of the snakes, and the
+wild shrieks fairly raised one's hair, made the heart stand still,
+stopped the action of the brain, sent cold chills down one's spinal
+column, and made goose-flesh of the whole of the surface of one's body.
+
+And this continued until fifty, one hundred, and even as many as one
+hundred and fifty snakes were thus washed and thrown upon the altar.
+It was the duty of two men to keep the snakes upon the altar, but on a
+small area less than four feet square it can well be imagined the task
+was no easy or enviable one. Indeed, many of the snakes escaped and
+crawled over our feet and legs.
+
+As soon as all the snakes were washed, all the priests retired except
+those whose duty it was to guard the snakes. Then it was that I dared
+to risk taking off the cap from my lens, pointing it at the almost
+quiescent mass of snakes, and trust to good luck for the result. On
+another page is the fruition of my faith, in the first photograph ever
+made of the snakes of a Hopi kiva after the ceremony of washing.
+
+And now the sunset hour draws near. This is to witness the close of the
+nine days' ceremony. It is to be public, for the Snake Dance itself
+is looked upon by all the people. Long before the hour the house-tops
+are lined with Hopis, Navahoes, Paiutis, cow-boys, miners, Mormons,
+preachers, scientists, and military men from Fort Wingate and other
+Western posts. Here is a distinguished German savant, and there a
+representative of the leading scientific society of France. Yonder is
+Dr. Jesse Walter Fewkes, the eminent specialist of the United States
+Bureau of Ethnology and the foremost authority of the world on the
+Snake Dance, while elbowing him and pumping him on every occasion is
+the inquisitive representative of one of America's leading journals.
+
+See yonder group of interesting maidens. Some of them are "copper
+Cleopatras" indeed, and would be accounted good-looking anywhere. Here
+is a group of laughing, frolicking youngsters of both sexes, half of
+them stark naked, and, except for the dirt which freely allies itself
+to them, perfect little "fried cupids," as they have not inaptly been
+described. Now, working his way through the crowd comes a United States
+Congressman, and yonder is the president of a railroad.
+
+Suddenly a murmur of approval goes up on every hand. The chief priest
+of the Antelopes has come out of the kiva, and he is immediately
+followed by all the others; and, as soon as the line is formed, with
+reverent mien and stately step, they march to the dance plaza. Here
+has been erected a cottonwood bower called the "kisi," in the base of
+which ollas have been placed containing the snakes. In front of this
+kisi is a hole covered by a plank. This hole represents the entrance to
+the underworld, and now the chief priest advances toward it, sprinkles
+a pinch of sacred meal over it, then vigorously stamps upon it, and
+marches on. The whole line do likewise. Four times the priests circle
+before the kisi, moving always from right to left, and stamping upon
+the meal-sprinkled board as they come to it. This is to awaken the
+attention of the gods of the underworld to the fact that the dance is
+about to begin.
+
+Now the Antelope priests line up either alongside or in front of the
+kisi--there being slight and unimportant variations in this and other
+regards at the different villages--all the while keeping up a solemn
+and monotonous humming song or prayer, while they await the coming of
+the Snake priests.
+
+At length, with stately stride and rapid movement, the Snake men come,
+led by their chief. They go through the same ceremonies of sprinkling,
+stamping, and circling that the Antelope priests did, and then line up,
+facing the kisi.
+
+The two lines now for several minutes sing, rattle, sway their bodies
+to and fro and back and forth in a most impressive and interesting
+manner, until, at a given signal, the Snake priests break up their
+line and divide into groups of three. The first group advances to
+the kisi. The first man of the group kneels down and receives from
+the warrior priest, who has entered the kisi, a writhing, wriggling,
+and, perhaps, dangerous reptile. Without a moment's hesitation the
+priest breathes upon it, puts it between his teeth, rises, and upon
+his companion's placing one arm around his shoulders, the two begin to
+amble and prance along, followed by the third member of their group,
+around the prescribed circuit. With a peculiar swaying of body, a
+rapid and jerky lifting high of one leg, then quickly dropping it
+and raising the other, the "carrier" and his "hugger" proceed about
+three-fourths of the circuit, when the carrier drops the snake from
+his mouth, and passes on to take his place to again visit the kisi,
+obtain another snake, and repeat the performance. But now comes in
+the duty of the "gatherer," the third man of the group. As soon as
+the snake falls to the ground, it naturally desires to escape. With a
+pinch of sacred meal in his fingers and his snake whip in his hand, the
+gatherer rapidly advances, scatters the meal over the snake, stoops,
+and like a flash has him in his hands. Sometimes, however, a vicious
+rattlesnake, resenting the rough treatment, coils ready to strike. Now
+watch the dexterous handling by a Hopi of a venomous creature aroused
+to anger. With a "dab" of meal, the snake whip is brought into play,
+and the tickling feathers gently touch the angry reptile. As soon as he
+feels them, he uncoils and seeks to escape. Now is the time! Quicker
+than the eye can follow, the expert "gatherer" seizes the escaping
+creature, and that excitement is ended, only to allow the visitor to
+witness a similar scene going on elsewhere with other participants.
+In the meantime all the snake carriers have received their snakes and
+are perambulating around as did the first one, so that, until all
+the snakes are brought into use, it is an endless chain, composed of
+"carrier," snake, "hugger," and "gatherer." Now and again a snake
+glides away toward the group of spectators, and there is a frantic dash
+to get away. But the gatherers never fail to stop and capture their
+particular reptile. As the dance continues, the gatherers have more
+than their hands full, so, to ease themselves, they hand over their
+excited and wriggling victims to the Antelope priests, who, during the
+whole of this part of the ceremony, remain in line, solemnly chanting.
+
+[Illustration: THE SNAKES IN THE KIVA AT MASHONGANAVI, AFTER THE
+CEREMONY OF WASHING.]
+
+At last all the snakes have been brought from the kisi. The chief
+priest steps forth, describes a circle of sacred meal upon the ground,
+and, at a given signal, all the priests, Snake and Antelope alike,
+rush up to it, and throw the snakes they have in hands or mouths into
+the circle, at the same time spitting upon them. The whole of the Hopi
+spectators, also, no matter where they may be, reverently spit toward
+this circle where now one may see through the surrounding group of
+priests the writhing, wriggling, hissing, rattling mass of revolting
+reptiles. Never before on earth, except here, was such a hideous sight
+witnessed. But one's horror is kept in abeyance for a while as is heard
+the prayer of the chief priest and we see him sprinkle the mass with
+sacred meal, while the asperger does the same thing from the sacred
+water bowl.
+
+Then another signal is given! Curious spectator, carried away by your
+interest, beware! Look out! In a moment, the Snake priests dart down,
+"grab" at the pile of intertwined snakes, get all they can in each
+hand, and then, regardless of your dread, thrust the snakes into the
+faces of all who stand in their way, and like pursued deer dart down
+the steep and precipitous trails into the appointed places of the
+valley beneath. Here let us watch them from the edge of the mesa.
+Reverently depositing them, they kneel and pray over them and then
+return to the mesa as hastily as they descended, divesting themselves
+of their dance paraphernalia as they return.
+
+Now occurs one of the strangest portions of the whole ceremony.
+The Antelope priests have already returned, with due decorum, to
+their kiva. One by one the Snake men arrive at theirs, sweating and
+breathless from their run up the steep trails. When all have returned,
+they step to the top of their kiva, or, as at Walpi, to the western
+edge of the mesa, and there drink a large quantity of an emetic that
+has been especially prepared for the purpose. Then, O ye gods! gaze
+on if ye dare! The whole of them may be seen bending over, solemnly
+and in most dignified manner, puking forth the horrible decoction they
+have just poured down. This is a ceremony of internal purification
+corresponding to the ceremonial washing of themselves and the snakes
+before described. This astounding spectacle ends as the priests
+disappear into their kiva, where they restore their stomachs to a more
+normal condition by feasting on the piki, pikami, and other delicacies
+the women now bring to them in great quantities. Then for two days
+frolic and feasting are indulged in, and the Snake Dance in that
+village at least is now over, to be repeated two years hence.
+
+What is the significance, the real meaning of the Snake Dance? It is
+not, as is generally supposed, an act of snake worship. Here I can do
+no more than give the barest suggestion as to what modern science has
+concluded. It is mainly a prayer for rain in which acts of sun worship
+are introduced. The propitiation of the Spider Woman at her shrine
+by the offerings of prayers and bahos by the chief Antelope priest
+demonstrates a desire for rain. She is asked to weave the clouds, for
+without them no rain can descend. The lightning symbol of the Antelope
+priests; the shaking of their rattles, which sounds like the falling
+rain; the use of the whizzer to produce the sounds of the coming
+storm,--these and other similar things show the intimate association of
+the dance with rain and its making.
+
+Allied to rain are the fructifying processes of the earth; and as
+corn is their chief article of food, and its germination, growth, and
+maturity depend upon the rainfall, the use of corn-meal and prayers for
+the growth of corn have come to have an important place in the ceremony.
+
+The use of the snakes is for a double purpose. In celebrating this
+ceremony it is the desire of the Snake clan to reproduce the original
+conditions of its performance as near as possible, in order to gain
+all the efficacy they desire for their petitions. In the original
+performance the prayers of the Snake Mother were the potent ones. Hence
+the snakes must now be introduced to make potent prayers.
+
+The other idea is that the snakes act as intermediaries to convey to
+the Snake Mother in the underworld the prayers for rain and corn growth
+that her children on the earth have uttered.
+
+In considering the ceremony of the public dance certain questions
+naturally arise. Are the Hopis ever bitten by the venomous snakes,
+and, if so, what are the consequences? And what is the secret of their
+power in handling these dangerous reptiles with such startling freedom?
+
+[Illustration: AFTER TAKING THE EMETIC. HOPI SNAKE DANCE AT WALPI.]
+
+There are times when the priests are bitten, but, as was suggested
+in the snake legend, they have a snake venom charm liquid. This is
+prepared by the chief woman of the Snake clan, and she and the Snake
+priest alone are supposed to know the secret of its composition. It may
+be that ere long this secret will be given to the world by a gentleman
+who is largely in the confidence of the Hopis, but, as yet, it is
+practically unknown. That it is an antidote there can be no question. I
+have seen men seriously bitten by rattlesnakes, and in each case, after
+the use of the antidote, the wounded priests suffered but slightly.
+
+As to the "why" of the handling of the snakes. The "fact" it is easy
+to state; but when one enters the realm of theory to explain the "why"
+of the fact, he places himself as a target for others to shoot at. My
+theory, however, is that a fear within yourself arouses a corresponding
+fear within the reptile. As soon as he feels fear he prepares to use
+the weapons of offence and defence with which nature has provided him.
+
+If, on the other hand, you feel no fear, and, in touching the creature,
+_do not hurt him so as to arouse his fear_, he may be handled with
+impunity.
+
+Be this as it may, the fact remains--for I have examined the snakes
+before, during, and after the ceremony--that dangerous and untampered
+with rattlesnakes are used by the Hopis in this, their prayer to "Those
+Above" for rain.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+THE NAVAHO AND HIS HISTORY
+
+
+Misunderstood, maligned, abused, despised, the Navaho has never stood
+high in the estimation of those whites who did not know him. Yet he is
+industrious, moral, honest, trustworthy, fairly truthful, religious,
+and good to his wife and children. Not a weak list of virtues, even
+though one has to detract from it by accusing him of ingratitude.
+There are noble exceptions, of course, to this charge, but from what I
+know and have seen, I am inclined to believe that many, if not most,
+Navahoes have no sense of moral responsibility for favors and benefits
+received.
+
+Though, perhaps, not as interesting to study as the Hopis, there is
+still a wonderful field open for the student who is willing to go
+and live with the Navaho, learn his language, gain his confidence,
+participate in all his ceremonies, and enter into his social and
+domestic life.
+
+No one has done this as much as Dr. Washington Matthews, whose "Navaho
+Legends" is a revelation to those people who have hitherto held the
+general ideas (propagated, too, by a scientific observer) so prevalent
+about this long-suffering people.
+
+That the Navaho was reserved with the white man in the early days
+of American occupancy there can be no doubt, and the difficulty
+experienced in penetrating that reserve is well exemplified by
+reference to the letter of Dr. Joseph Letherman, who lived for three
+years among the tribe at Fort Defiance. Aided by Major Kendrick, who
+had long commanded at this post, he wrote a letter which appears in the
+Smithsonian Report for 1855. In this he says, among many good things:
+"Nothing can be learned of the origin of these people from themselves.
+At one time they say they came out of the ground; and at another, that
+they know nothing whatever of their origin; the latter, no doubt, being
+the truth." Again: "Of their religion little or nothing is known, as,
+indeed, all inquiries tend to show that they have none; and even have
+not, we are informed, any word to express the idea of a Supreme Being.
+We have not been able to learn that any observances of a religious
+character exist among them; and the general impression of those who
+have the means of knowing them is, that, in this respect, they are
+steeped in the deepest degradation." Once more: "They have frequent
+gatherings for dancing." And a little further on: "Their singing is but
+a succession of grunts, and is anything but agreeable."
+
+One has but to read what Dr. Matthews has written and gathered from
+the Navahoes to see how misleading and erroneous the conclusions of
+Dr. Letherman were. To quote: "He [Dr. Matthews] had not been many
+weeks in New Mexico when he discovered that the dances to which the
+doctor refers were religious ceremonials, and later he found that these
+ceremonials might vie in allegory, symbolism, and intricacy of ritual
+with the ceremonies of any people, ancient or modern. He found, ere
+long, that these heathens, pronounced godless and legendless, possessed
+lengthy myths and traditions--so numerous that one can never hope to
+collect them all, a pantheon as well stocked with gods and heroes as
+that of the ancient Greeks, and prayers which, for length and vain
+repetition, might put a Pharisee to blush."
+
+Wonderful songs also were found, full of poetic imagery, and suitable
+for every conceivable occasion, songs that have been handed down for
+generations. Of the sacred songs Dr. Matthews makes the astounding
+statement that, "sometimes, pertaining to a single rite, there are two
+hundred songs or more which may not be sung at other rites." Further:
+"The songs must be known to the priest of the rite and his assistants
+in a most exact manner, for an error made in singing a song may be
+fatal to the efficacy of a ceremony. In no case is an important mistake
+tolerated, and in some cases the error of a single syllable works an
+irreparable injury."
+
+Popular conceptions of the Navaho are very crude and inaccurate. They
+are largely the result of two "floods of information" which deluged the
+country at two epochs in their history, and neither of them had much
+truth in the flood. The first of these epochs was at the discovery of
+the important cliff dwellings located on their reservation,--those of
+the Tsegi Canyon (the so-called Canyon de Chelly), Monument Canyon,
+Chaco Canyon, etc. Writers who visited the region wrote the most wild
+and outrageously conceived nonsense about this people and the dwellings
+they were supposed to look upon with superstitious veneration. Then
+later, a lot of unscrupulous whites, fired with similar zeal to that
+which led the old conquistadors across the deserts of northern Mexico
+and through the inhospitable wilds of Arizona and New Mexico,--the
+zeal for gold or silver,--which was doubtless fed by the fact that
+the Navahoes did possess thousands of dollars' worth of silver
+ornaments, started out to prospect the interior recesses of the Navaho
+reservation. Knowing by painful experience what this meant,--for
+their "white brothers" had stolen their springs and arable land from
+them on the Moenkopi, on the Little Colorado, at Willow Spring, and a
+score of other places,--the warlike and courageous Navahoes resented
+the presence of these men. They begged them to retire, and when the
+white men refused, fought and whipped them. This naturally excited
+the cupidity of the silver hunters more than ever. "Why should the
+blanked Indians fight if not to protect their silver mines?"--this was
+the kind of question asked, and the natural and legitimate resentment
+of the Navahoes was described all over the country as "another Indian
+uprising," and led to the second "flood of knowledge," which the
+newspapers always have forthcoming when public interest and curiosity
+are aroused.
+
+[Illustration: NAVAHO SILVER NECKLACE AND BELT.
+
+_In the collection of George Wharton James._]
+
+[Illustration: HOPI PRAYER STICKS OR PAHOS.
+
+_In the collection of George Wharton James._]
+
+Hence the truth often comes as a wet blanket to the preconceived
+notions of those who have drank deep from these earlier streams of
+information!
+
+Science and legend both agree in giving to the Navaho a mixed origin.
+His is not a pure-blooded race. Their myths or legends refer to many
+assimilations of other people, strangers from the North, South, East,
+West, and everywhere, all of whom were welcomed and made an integral
+part of the nation. Hence there is no such thing as a distinctly Navaho
+type, or, as Hrdlicka puts it, "they show considerable difference in
+color and measurement, and cannot be considered a radically homogeneous
+people, but their mixture is not recent." This latter statement is
+doubtless true, as they would probably become more clannish as their
+nation grew in numbers and power.
+
+Dr. Matthews gives the stories of the origin of several of the gentes.
+One story which he does not relate was told to me at Tohatchi, and
+serves to illustrate how a migration from the Northwest is transformed
+into a supernatural occurrence. Though told to me of the Navahoes as a
+whole, there can be no doubt that it applies only to a single gens. The
+story was in regard to Winged Rock, commonly called by the whites "Ship
+Rock," and about which I had been seeking information.
+
+This rock is situated in the Navaho reservation, about one hundred
+miles northwest of Tohatchi, and some fifteen or twenty miles from
+Carrizo Mountain. It is difficult of access, and my informant assured
+me that even though an army of white men should reach its base they
+could never scale its steep sides and reach its top. All the Navaho
+tribe reverence it sincerely and all watch and guard it jealously. He
+would indeed be a brave white man who would dare the anger of these
+warlike and brave natives if they forbade his approach and would
+attempt to scale this sacred Winged Rock.
+
+This was the legend: "Many, many years ago, when this country was young
+and the sun cast only small shadows, my people came across the narrow
+sea far away near the setting sun in the north and landed on the shores
+of this country. The people where they landed were exceedingly angry
+at them, and whenever they could they fell upon them and slew them. My
+people did not want to go to war, but this inhospitable reception made
+them angry, so they put themselves in war array and fell upon their
+foes. But there were few only of my people, and their enemies were so
+many that it was not long before they were in sad straits. Indeed, they
+would soon have been entirely destroyed had not help come. In their
+distress they called on Those Above, and soon a messenger from the sky
+came to my people and said: 'See you yonder stone mountain? Flee to it.
+It will be your salvation. Climb up its steep, strong, rugged sides
+and it will carry you toward the land of the South sea, nearer to the
+rising sun, and there your home shall be.'
+
+"My people were only too glad to obey the message. They hastened
+towards the mountain. Some who were weak were enabled to fly towards it
+like birds, and they clung to its steep sides and clambered to its top.
+
+"Then when they were all safe on its huge bulk, the monster rock was
+taken by Those Above, and it arose and floated across the rivers and
+plains and mountains and lakes and canyons. Several days and nights it
+floated, and my people gazed with wonder upon the strange and wonderful
+countries through which they travelled. Sometimes they thought they
+would like to stay in this place or in that, but the wisdom of Those
+Above said No! and the rock floated on. Oh! it was a glorious sail.
+Never before or since has any people been so blessed and favored by the
+People of the Shadows Above.
+
+"Finally the Winged Rock crossed the great deep canyon of the Colorado
+River, and my people were afraid of its vast depths. Then the rock
+gently settled down to the earth, where it is now found, and our home
+was reached. It did not seem to be a very beautiful land, but it was
+given to us by Those Above, and my people soon became content. We were
+shown the springs and the watercourses, and we found the mountains
+covered with trees, and the rivers and creeks. So that when any one
+speaks of our leaving our country we are afraid and we cry: 'No, why
+should we leave this land given to us, and which we love? Yonder is the
+rock on which we came, and never until that rock floats away with us
+shall we leave the land that we love so well!'
+
+"As soon as we were settled here, Those Above gave us some great
+shamans, and one of them told us that we must always do right, for the
+sun, when it rises, would watch our every action all throughout the
+day, and when he went away at night it was to tell Those Above all our
+evil actions, for which we should be punished."
+
+While the Apaches and Navahoes are of the same stock, there have
+always been marked differences between them so long as they have been
+under the observation of the white men. When the Spaniards entered
+the country, the Navahoes were more distinctly an agricultural people
+than the Apaches. They had large patches of land under cultivation,
+kept their crops and lived in houses underground. Cultivated lands
+necessitated settled residences, and after the Spaniards introduced
+sheep, it was not long before the Navahoes were extensive sheep
+raisers. It would not be any wiser or more profitable to enter into an
+inquiry as to the methods by which these flocks were acquired than it
+would be to ascertain the history of many of the landed possessions
+of European nobilities. With the Navaho, possession was the only law
+he cared anything for. "To have and to hold" was his motto; and once
+"having," he held pretty securely. Hence the sheep possessions of the
+neighboring pueblo Indians were held by exceedingly precarious tenure.
+
+[Illustration: AN AGED NAVAHO, LOOKING OVER THE PAINTED DESERT.]
+
+[Illustration: AN OLD HOPI AT ORAIBI.]
+
+And here we have, I believe, one of the additional sources of enmity
+between the Navaho and the Spaniard. As their wards, the Spanish were
+in duty bound to care for and protect the Pueblos. Thus Navaho and
+Spaniard were ever at war, and when the Mexican came in the Spaniard's
+stead the battle still continued on the same lines and with the same
+ferocity.
+
+It was on the 22d of January in 1849 that Lieut. J. H. Simpson,
+afterwards General, started on that interesting trip of his through the
+Navaho country, which has forever connected his name with these nomads.
+He was not in command of the expedition, its head being Col. John M.
+Washington, who was military and civil governor of New Mexico at the
+time. The object of the expedition was to coerce the Navahoes into a
+compliance with a treaty which they had made with the United States,
+two years previously, and to extend the provisions of the treaty.
+
+When they reached the Chaco Canyon trouble ripened between the soldiers
+and the Navahoes, and the latter were fired upon, with the result that
+seven were killed, including Narbona, their great warrior and chief.
+
+This was but one of many such attacks upon the whites. Then as now,
+only far more so, the Navahoes resented the intrusion of white people
+in their territory; and having gained fire-arms, they used them to
+deadly purpose upon those who slighted their will.
+
+There is no doubt that the Navahoes were a source of great terror
+to the Mexicans who first settled in and near their territory. Even
+after the United States became their guardians at the acquisition of
+New Mexico in 1847, they were very hostile, murders, robberies, and
+depredations of every kind being quite common. In 1855, Dr. Letherman
+reported that "the nation, as a nation, is fully imbued with the idea
+that it is all powerful, which, no doubt, has arisen from the fact of
+its having been for years a terror and a dread to the inhabitants of
+New Mexico." But that these depredations were not perpetrated upon the
+whites alone is evident from the fact that one of the richest men of
+the Navahoes himself applied to Major Kendrick, then the commanding
+officer of Fort Defiance, N. Mex., to protect his cattle, as he could
+not otherwise prevent his own people from stealing them.
+
+The insolence from years of this kind of free life needed forceful
+check, but it was not until 1862 that the unbearable conduct of the
+Navahoes brought upon themselves this long-needed chastisement.
+
+According to governmental reports, the Indians of New Mexico (among
+whom were the Navahoes and Mescalero Apaches) caused losses between
+1860 and 1863 to the people of that territory of "not less than 500,000
+sheep, and 5,000 horses, mules, and cattle. Over 200 lives have been
+also sacrificed of citizens, soldiers, and shepherds." It was also
+stated in 1863 "that the military establishment of this territory
+[New Mexico, which then included Arizona], since its acquisition, has
+cost not less than $3,000,000 annually, independent of land-warrant
+bounties." And while this was for a conquered country, the whole
+expenditure was for the chastisement of hostile Indians, every tribe of
+which in turn came in for its share of the fighting.
+
+It was openly advocated about this time that the policy of
+extermination was the only one that could be followed, and this must
+be brought about either by actual warfare, or by driving the hostiles
+into the mountains and there starving them to death.
+
+Brig.-Gen. J. H. Carleton, who was in control of the department of New
+Mexico, determined upon a thorough and complete change in our treatment
+of this haughty and proud people. They had made six treaties at
+different times with officers of our Government and had violated them
+before they could be ratified at Washington. He strongly counselled
+drastic measures in a letter which is historically of sufficient
+interest to justify a large quotation from it:--
+
+ "At the Bosque Redondo there is arable land enough for all the Indians
+ of this family [the Navahoes and Apaches have descended from the same
+ stock and speak the same language], and I would respectfully recommend
+ that now the war be vigorously prosecuted against the Navahoes; that
+ the only peace that can ever be made with them must rest on the basis
+ that they move on to these lands, and, like the Pueblos, become
+ an agricultural people, and cease to be nomads. This should be a
+ _sine qua non_; as soon as the snows of winter admonish them of the
+ sufferings to which their families will be exposed, I have great hopes
+ of getting most of the tribe. The knowledge of the perfidy of these
+ Navahoes, gained after two centuries of experience, is such as to lead
+ us to put no faith in their promises. They have no government to make
+ treaties; they are a patriarchal people. One set of families may make
+ promises, but the other set will not heed them. They understand the
+ direct application of force as a law; if its application be removed,
+ that moment they become lawless. This has been tried over and over
+ again, and at great expense. The purpose now is, never to relax the
+ application of force with a people that can no more be trusted than
+ the wolves that run through the mountains. To collect them together,
+ little by little, on to a reservation, away from the haunts and hills
+ and hiding-places of their country; there be kind to them; there teach
+ their children how to read and write; teach them the arts of peace,
+ teach them the truths of Christianity. Soon they will acquire new
+ habits, new ideas, and new modes of life; and the old Indians will
+ die off, and carry with them all latent longings for murdering and
+ robbing. The young ones will take their places without these longings,
+ and thus, little by little, they will become a happy and contented
+ people; and Navaho wars will be remembered only as something that
+ belong entirely to the past. Even until they can raise enough to be
+ self-sustaining, _you can feed them cheaper than fight them_....
+
+ "I know these ideas are practical and humane--are just to the
+ suffering people, as well as to the aggressive, perfidious, butchering
+ Navahoes. If I can have one more _full_ regiment of cavalry, and
+ authority to raise one independent company in each county of the
+ Territory, they can soon be carried to a final result."
+
+In 1863 General Carleton's suggestions in the main were approved by the
+Indian Department and he proceeded to carry out his plan.
+
+Col. Kit Carson, the noted scout, with an adequate force was sent
+out to humble and punish the Navahoes. It was wise that such a just,
+humane, and wise Indian fighter was sent to do this work. His knowledge
+of their characters stood him in good purpose, and in a very short
+time over seven thousand prisoners were taken. Later this number was
+increased, until they amounted to about ten or eleven thousand.
+
+At the same time the Apaches were being cornered, and a number of them
+were removed to Fort Stanton, on the Peeos River, far enough down into
+the open country to prevent easy escape to the mountains. Part of
+this settlement was the Bosque Redondo, and General Carleton's plan
+contemplated the settlement of both Apaches and Navahoes here.
+
+[Illustration: HOPI CEREMONIAL HEAD-DRESSES.
+
+_In the collection of George Wharton James._]
+
+[Illustration: HOPI BAHOS AND DANCE RATTLES.
+
+_In the collection of George Wharton James._]
+
+Compelled by a superior force, the now humbled Navahoes were herded
+together like sheep and in 1863 were removed to the chosen place.
+It was soon found, however, that this was an inhospitable region,
+altogether unfitted to be the home of so large a population. The water
+was alkaline, and the soil not of a nature suitable to the raising of
+corn. There was practically no fuel, and the Navahoes had to dig up
+mesquite roots and carry them on their backs twelve miles for this
+purpose. In two or three years more than one-fourth of their number
+died and the remainder grew more and more dissatisfied with the
+location.
+
+In 1867, however, Manuelito and Barboncita, two of the war chiefs, came
+into the reservation, both of them having surrendered to the commandant
+at Fort Wingate. The former had refused to come into the reservation in
+1863, and the latter ran away from it, with his band of warriors, in
+1864. These two bands added 780 more of men, women, and children to the
+population, which, in June, 1867, was reported to be 7,300.
+
+This whole Bosque Redondo was a disgraceful business, on a line with so
+much of the wretched and abominable treatment the Indians have received
+at our hands. Think of placing ten thousand Indians upon a reservation
+where there was no water but black, brackish stuff not fit for cattle,
+no fuel, and no soil for cultivation of the chief article of their
+diet. Deprived of food, water, and fuel, what would white men be? No
+wonder the Navahoes rebelled and were kept in order only by brute force.
+
+At length those in authority saw the iniquity of the proceeding and the
+order was given to return them to their reservation. This was done,
+but with a loss by death, mainly through preventable causes, of over
+three thousand souls.
+
+Since this time they have been industrious and progressive. The Bosque
+lesson, though severe, was needed, and it proved salutary. One can
+travel with perfect safety unarmed across the Navaho reservation, as I
+have done several times; and a lady friend, unarmed, and unaccompanied
+by any other escort than a Navaho, has travelled hundreds of miles in
+perfect safety among the Navahoes in all parts of their reservation.[3]
+
+[3] Since writing the above, however, a sad event has transpired which
+leads me to modify my statement. A young lady missionary, riding alone,
+was criminally assaulted by a Navaho, and almost brought to death's
+door. When I heard of it Navahoes were hunting for the culprit. It is
+to be hoped he will be found and severely punished.
+
+In September, 1870, a number of dissatisfied Utes visited the Navahoes
+at the so-called "Navaho Church," which can be seen on the right on the
+line of the Santa Fé Railway, going to California. All the principal
+chiefs of the tribe were present and the causes of dissatisfaction
+against the whites were fully discussed. The powwow was an important
+one, and lasted several days, but the chief purpose of the Utes--to
+incite the Navahoes to warfare against the whites--was not successful.
+The crafty Utes, with stirring eloquence, said they had heard the white
+men saying they were going to take possession of the whole country,
+and that when they did they would kill off all the chief men of the
+Navahoes. "See how they have stolen in upon your territory and taken
+the springs and land that you have had all the time up till now! They
+have taken the water and land at Wingate and at Defiance, and soon
+they will take all you have, and you and your children will perish
+because you have no water, no grass for your horses and sheep, and no
+corn for food. Join in with us and drive these hated people away. Get
+all the guns and ammunition you can, and prepare many new bows and
+arrows. Let us sing the war songs together, and go on the war-path
+and hunt down and kill the whites as the Pueblos hunt down and kill
+rabbits. Then we will be friends. You will have your country to
+yourselves, and Those Above will make of you a great nation. We shall
+have our country and we shall become great. Now we are dwindling down;
+we are melting away as the snows on the hillside. United against the
+whites we shall both become stronger, and grow like the well-watered
+corn."
+
+The Navahoes refused to give answer until they had consulted among
+themselves, and then one of their chiefs reported their decision as
+follows: "We have heard what our Ute brothers have said. If our white
+brothers want to kill us they can do so. They have had plenty of
+chances and we are yet alive. All of our people who have been slain
+have been those who have gone on the war-path against them in the past.
+We do not wish to die, so we will not go on the war-path. We will stay
+at home. We have food. The whites treat us well. If our Ute brothers
+must fight we will not interfere, but we ourselves do not wish to
+fight."
+
+The result was that the Ute bands returned to their homes without any
+specific act of warfare at that time.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+THE NAVAHO AT HOME
+
+
+The Navaho reservation, embracing nearly four million acres, or eleven
+thousand square miles, was established by treaty with the Navahoes of
+June 1, 1868, and has been modified or enlarged by subsequent executive
+orders of October 29, 1878, January 6, 1880, May 17, 1884, April 24,
+1886, November 19, 1892, and January 6, 1900. The major portion is
+in Arizona, but about six hundred and fifty square miles are in New
+Mexico. Its average elevation is about six thousand feet, though near
+the Colorado River it is often but four thousand. The highest peak
+is about in the centre of the present reservation, in the Tunicha
+Mountains, and is upwards of nine thousand five hundred feet high.
+
+The Tunicha range is covered with glorious and majestic pines, and
+all along its flanks are wide plateaus through which gloomy and
+massive canyons convey the storm waters from the heights above into
+the plains below. Its close proximity to the Grand Canyon suggests
+what its general appearance might be. Drained deep down by the canyons
+and gorges tributary to this great vampire canyon, it is seamed and
+scarred by the dashing down of many waters. Its rocks are cut up into
+a thousand fantastic forms and shapes, which look over sterile valleys
+full of sand. These valleys are numberless, and one of them, the
+I-chi-ni-li,--commonly called the Chin-lee,--stretches from the south
+to beyond the San Juan River on the north, to the west of the Tunicha
+range.
+
+The ancient boundaries of the land, long prior to the advent of the
+Spaniard, were four majestic mountains, which now approximately
+determine the reserve. On the east is Pelado Peak; on the south, Mt.
+San Mateo (commonly called Mt. Taylor); on the west, the San Francisco
+range; and on the north, the San Juan Mountains. Each of these is over
+eleven thousand feet in height. Hence it will be seen that there is a
+vast range of altitude, yet it is questionable whether anywhere else
+in the world so large a population inhabits so barren and inhospitable
+a country. On the lower levels it is mainly desert, with scant pasture
+here and there; on the higher mesas or plateaus there are many
+junipers, pinions, and red cedars.
+
+It is a difficult matter to determine the population of the Navahoes.
+While they were in captivity the official count was seven thousand
+three hundred, but desertions were frequent, and at one time about
+seven hundred of the renegades came in and surrendered, and it is well
+known that many never were captured or surrendered.
+
+In 1869 the government distributed thirty thousand sheep and two
+thousand goats to them, and a count was ordered. This was a most
+favorable time to make it, as besides the sheep and goats, two years'
+annuities were given out, and rations distributed every four days. The
+total summed up some nine thousand.
+
+In 1890 the official census reported 17,204, but Cosmos Mendeleff,
+writing in 1895-96, says the tribe numbers only "over 12,000 souls."
+It scarcely seems possible, if the count in 1869 was anything near
+accurate that the population could have increased to 17,204 in 1890.
+Still it must be remembered that, though not prolific, the Navaho is
+a good breeder. He is healthy, vigorous, robust, and strong, and his
+wife (or wives, for he is a polygamist) equally so. Living an out-door
+life, inured to hardships, generally possessed of plenty to eat, of
+coarse, rough, hearty, but nutritious food, engaged in occupations and
+indulging in sports that cultivate their athletic powers, free from the
+consumptive and scrofulous tendencies of most reservation Indians, they
+are well fitted to be the progenitors of healthy children.
+
+Though polygamists, they are moral and chaste. In their legends they
+have always regarded marital unfaithfulness as a prolific source of
+sorrow and punishment. In their Origin Legend this sin led to their
+banishment from the first world, and again from the second, and also
+from the third, the wronged chief execrating them as follows: "For such
+crimes I suppose you were chased from the world below; you shall drink
+no more of our water, you shall breathe no more of our air. Begone!"
+
+In this legend Washington Matthews tells of Góntso, or Big Knee, a
+chief who had twelve wives, four from each of three different gens or
+families. Though he was a bountiful provider, his wives were unfaithful
+to him. He complained to the chiefs of their families and to their
+relations and begged them to remonstrate with the wicked women, but
+remonstrances and rebukes seemed to be in vain. At last they said to
+Big Knee, "Do with them as you will, we shall not interfere." The
+next time he detected the unfaithfulness of his wives he mutilated
+one, another he cut the ears from, a third cut off her breasts, and
+all these three died. A fourth he cut off her nose, and she lived. He
+thereupon determined that henceforth he would cut off the nose of any
+unfaithful wife, for that would be a visible mark of her shame and yet
+would not kill her. She would be compelled to live, and all men and
+women would know of her wickedness. But even this horrible punishment
+did not have the deterrent effect he expected. It was not long before
+another and then another was detected and punished, until, before long,
+his whole family of wives was noseless. Instead of rebuking themselves
+and their sins as the cause of their mutilation these women would
+gather together to rail against their husband, and their relations,
+whom they claimed should have protected them. Big Knee was compelled to
+sleep alone in a well-protected hut, and the women grew more determined
+than ever to work him an injury.
+
+[Illustration: KAPATA, ANTELOPE PRIEST, AT WALPI.]
+
+[Illustration: A MASHONGANAVI HOPI, GOING TO HOE HIS CORN.]
+
+About this time the people got up a big ceremony for the benefit of
+Big Knee. It lasted nine days, and on the night of the last day the
+mutilated women, who had kept themselves secluded in a hut, came
+forth, and with knives in their hands, proceeded to sing and dance as
+was expected of them. Around the fire they circled, singing "Peshla
+ashila"--"It was the knife that did it to me"--and peering among the
+spectators for their husband. He was safe, however, for he was hidden
+in the circle of branches that made the dance corral. As they concluded
+the dance they ran from the corral, cursing all who were present with
+fearful maledictions: "May the waters drown ye! May the winters freeze
+ye! May the fires burn ye! May the lightnings strike ye!" and other
+equally malicious curses. Then they departed and went into the far
+north, where they now dwell, and, according to the Navahoes, whenever
+these noseless women turn their faces to the south we have cold winds
+and storms and lightning.
+
+From this legend it is observed that the husband's power over the
+wife was somewhat limited. Góntso dare not punish his wives without
+the consent of their relations. This freedom of the woman is observed
+to this day, she regarding herself in most things as the equal, and
+sometimes the superior, of her husband.
+
+From all I can learn, marital unchastity is uncommon, though where the
+tribe is in close contact with the towns along the railway there are
+generally to be found men who will sell their wives and daughters,
+and mothers who will sell their girls to debased white men. Among the
+respectable members of the tribe, if a man discovers that his wife, or
+one of them, is unfaithful, he may take it upon himself to chastise
+her, but such is the independent position of the woman that he must be
+very wise and judicious or she will speedily leave him.
+
+Divorce is not common, but is allowable for cause, the parties chiefly
+concerned generally settling all the details. Occasionally, however,
+a transaction occurs that in civilized society would occasion quite a
+buzz of busy tongues. One such happened but a few years ago. Mr. George
+H. Pepper of the American Museum of Natural History tells the story.
+The facts were within his own knowledge. One of the husbands had a wife
+who positively refused to wash and brush his hair. He would coax and
+persuade, urge and command, threaten and bluster, but all to no effect.
+The dusky creature was neither to be led nor driven. If he wanted his
+hair washed and combed he must do it himself.
+
+While the disappointed husband was cogitating over his miserable
+marital experiences, a friend from a distance, with his wife, came to
+visit him. As the men got to talking and finally exchanging confidences
+about their wives, the one told the other of the unwifely conduct of
+his spouse. The visitor condoled with his host and told what a good
+wife he had, how very obedient she was, and the like, until he had
+quite exalted her, and the host determined to take a better look than
+he had hitherto given at such a paragon of a wife. Whether this was a
+scheme of the visitor or not it was scarcely possible to tell, but,
+anyhow, it worked out as well as if it had been carefully planned;
+for as the host studied the visitor's wife he fell head over ears
+in love with her, and, strange to say, a corresponding affinity was
+discovered to exist between the two others. Accordingly, a day or two
+later the visitor suggested to the host that as he (the host) wanted
+a wife to wash and comb his hair, while he (the visitor) was content
+with a wife that would do neither, what was to hinder their "swapping"
+their life partners and thus making a satisfactory end to his domestic
+difficulties? With joy the disappointed husband accepted the offer,--a
+little "boot" was required to make the exchange satisfactorily, and
+then the result was communicated to the women. Neither of them was
+consulted in the slightest, but without any hesitancy they fell in
+with the agreement. The visitor rode off satisfied, accompanied by his
+new wife, while the wife who came as a visitor inaugurated her new
+relationship by shyly coming into her new husband's hogan with an olla
+of water, the necessary soap-root, and the whisk with which to wash and
+comb her liege's hair. And now, for three years, the two couples are
+known to have lived together in "amity and concord."
+
+A few years ago it would perhaps have been safe to designate the
+Navahoes as the most wealthy Indians of the United States. Many of them
+were worth hundreds of dollars. They understood and practised the art
+of irrigation; they grew large crops of corn, squash, melons, beans,
+chili, and onions. Some had large and thriving bands of horses, which
+they traded with the Havasupais, Wallapais, Hopis, Paiutis, and other
+neighboring people. I have often met a band of six or eight Navaho
+traders with horses and blankets in the canyon of the Havasu, and they
+took away the well-dressed buckskins in exchange, for which these
+canyon people are noted. From the Paiutis, they obtained baskets and
+their _tusjehs_, or wicker-work, pinion gum-covered water-bottles.
+
+As for sheep and goats, there are few places in the United States where
+so many were to be found as on the Navaho reservation. Every family
+had its flock, as every woman was a blanket weaver; and one of the
+prettiest sights in the whole Painted Desert Region was to come upon
+a flock of these gentle, domestic creatures quietly pasturing, led or
+driven by the owner herself, or one of her children.
+
+But the last few years have made a great difference in their
+prosperity. Rains have been rare, water scarce, and pasture scant,
+and as a result their flocks are reduced to woeful proportions. Their
+nomadic habits render the improvement of their locations impossible,
+and their superstition in regard to the burning of a hogan in which any
+one has died compels frequent migrations.
+
+There is no doubt but that for the past three hundred years of historic
+time the Navahoes have been thieves, robbers, and murderers. The Hopis
+contend that all the sheep they had before the general distribution,
+earlier referred to, were stolen from them. This is probably true, but
+it is equally probable that had the Navahoes not stolen them the Utes
+would; and while this seems poor comfort, after facts showed that it
+was an exceedingly good thing that Navahoes rather than Utes became
+their possessors. For, once in their possession, the Navahoes became
+careful breeders (for aborigines) of sheep, and when marauding bands of
+Utes came into the country the warlike Navahoes drove them away, thus
+defending the sheep so that the Hopis could obtain the nucleus of a new
+flock later on.
+
+In the next chapter I present, a fairly full and accurate account of
+the art of blanket-weaving, for which the Navahoes are now so noted.
+
+As a rule the physical development of the Navahoes is sturdy and
+robust, as will be seen from the accompanying photographs. They average
+well, and with slight range on either side from a fair and normal
+development. There are few excessively strong, and equally few very
+weak people among them. The same may be said of their fatness and
+leanness, both extremes being rare.
+
+The men, as is common with all Indians, pluck out the hair on both lips
+and chin, though, occasionally, one will find a man who has allowed his
+moustache to grow. The hair on the head is seldom cut, and with both
+sexes is allowed to grow long. The men tie it in a knot behind, and
+wrap a high-colored "banda" around the forehead, thus confining the
+hair and adding considerably to their own picturesqueness.
+
+Being a prosperous people, they are generally contented looking, and
+wear that air of complacent self-satisfaction that is a sure sign of
+prosperity. It seems clearly to say: "We are a good people, a specially
+favored because specially deserving people, hence look upon us and
+understand our prosperity." There are no beggars among the better
+class of the Navahoes, and men as well as women are hard workers. As
+a nation they are decidedly producers. Mr. Cotton has large gangs of
+them working at grading, etc., on the Santa Fé Railway, and they can
+be found helping white men in as many and as various occupations as
+the Chinese in California. The industry of the women is proverbial,
+for seldom will one be found idle, her greatest seeming pleasure being
+to have her hands constantly occupied. What with carding the wool,
+washing, dyeing, and spinning it, preparing the dyes (after collecting
+them) for coloring it, and then weaving the blankets for which they
+are famous, going out into the mountains to collect the wild seeds and
+roots of which they are fond, caring for the corn, tending the sheep
+and goats, preparing the daily food, and many other duties that they
+impose upon themselves, none can say they are not models of industry.
+Men, women, and children alike are fearless riders. The wealth of many
+a man is determined by his possessions of horses and sheep, and from
+earliest years the boys are required to attend to the bands of horses.
+In their semi-nomad life the women ride about with the men, and thus
+become skilled riders. They sit astride, mounting and dismounting as
+easily as the men, and riding wherever occasion demands.
+
+The saddles are made by the men, and are a modification of the
+big-horned Mexican variety. The tree is cut out with infinite patience
+and care, and is then covered with rawhide or bought leather, and
+adorned with rows of brass-headed nails. The girth, or cinch, is home
+woven, of wool, cotton, or horsehair, the former being preferred.
+
+[Illustration: THE ANTELOPE PRIESTS LEAVING THEIR KIVA FOR THE SNAKE
+DANCE.]
+
+[Illustration: THE WIDOW, DAUGHTERS, AND GRANDCHILDREN OF THE NAVAHO
+CHIEF, MANUELITO.]
+
+That the Navahoes are or were expert engineers, and could construct
+difficult trails, is evidenced by their trails into Chaca Canyon from
+the mesa above. Simpson thus describes what he saw in 1849: "A mile
+further, observing several Navahoes high above us, on the brink of the
+north wall, shouting and gesticulating as if they were very glad to
+see us, what was our astonishment when they commenced tripping down
+the almost sheer wall before them, as nimbly and dexterously as minuet
+dancers! Indeed, the force of gravity, and their descent upon a steep
+inclined plane, made such a kind of performance absolutely necessary to
+insure their equilibrium."
+
+They are a remarkably intelligent people, and their faces are, as a
+rule, pliant and expressive. There is none of the proverbial stolidness
+to be found among any except very few of the older men of the Navahoes.
+If you are unwelcome you will know it,--surly looks and words will ask
+your mission and bid you begone. On the other hand, if you are welcome,
+glad smiles will light up the faces of your friends, and you will hear
+sweet words uttered by melodious and tuneful voices. It is seldom that
+your courteous advances will be repelled, though they are very ready to
+resent unwelcome intrusions. I have often sat for hours in the hogans
+of entire strangers, and the conversation of men and women was general
+and punctuated with laughter and smiles, showing that they know how to
+make and appreciate jokes.
+
+The Navahoes play a game common in the Southwest, which they call
+nanzosh. It is a simple game, yet they seem to get endless fun and
+amusement from it, often gambling large sums upon their favorite
+players, for, while it looks and is simple, it is not easy to play
+so as to win. It requires great skill and accurate throwing. The
+implements are two long poles and a small hoop. The poles are generally
+of alder and in two pieces, a fathom long, and a long, many-tailed
+string called the turkey-claw is fastened to the end of each. Two
+players only are needed. One throws the hoop. Both follow, and when
+they think the hoop is about to fall, they throw their respective poles
+so that the hoop, in its fall, will rest upon those portions of their
+poles that give the highest counts.
+
+Catlin describes a similar game played by the Mandans, though their
+pole is a single piece of wood, as is that of the Mohaves and Yumas,
+both of whom have the same game.
+
+The taboo is in existence in all its force among the Navahoes. The
+most singular of these is that which forbids a man ever to look upon
+the face of his mother-in-law. Among civilized people it is a standard
+subject for rude jesting, this relationship of the mother-in-law,
+but with the Navahoes, the white man's jest is a subject of great
+earnestness. Each believes that serious consequences will follow if
+they see each other; hence, as it is the custom for a man to live with
+his wife's people, constant dodging is required, and the cries of
+warning, given by one or another of the family to son or mother-in-law,
+are often heard. I was once photographing the family of Manuelito, the
+last great war-chief of the Navahoes. The widow of the chief, her two
+daughters, their husbands and children, made up the group. But there
+was no getting of them together. I would photograph the mother with her
+daughters and grandchildren, but as soon as I called for the daughters'
+husbands, the mother "slid" out of sight, and when I wished for her
+return, the men disappeared.
+
+Then, too, a Navaho will never touch fish, much less eat it. According
+to one of the shamans, the reason for this is, that some of their
+ancestors were once turned into fish in the San Juan River, and, were
+they to eat fish, they might thus become cannibals, and eat descendants
+of their own ancestors. As neither Matthews nor Stephen refers to this
+cause of the taboo, I merely give it for what it may be worth. The
+former tells of a white woman, who, in a spirit of mischief, threw a
+pan of water in which fish had been soaked over a young Navaho. He
+changed his clothes and bathed himself carefully, in order that no
+taint of the tabooed fish might remain upon him. I have had a great
+deal of fun by innocently offering candy in the form of fish to
+Navahoes. As they are fond of candy, it was a strong proof of the power
+of the taboo that they invariably refused to touch it.
+
+Superstition naturally forms a large part of the Navaho's thought. He
+believes in charms, amulets, fetishes, witchcraft, taboos, magic, and
+all the wondrous things he can conceive. His name for a personal fetish
+is _Bizha_, "his treasure, something he especially values; hence his
+charm, his amulet, his personal fetish, his magic weapon, something
+that one carries to mysteriously protect himself."
+
+The talisman or amulet for the gambler is a piece of fine turquoise,
+because Noholipi, a gambling god, who appears in their Origin Legend,
+was made successful always with a large piece of this precious stone.
+
+There are quite a number of medicine-men, or shamans, among the
+Navahoes, some good, others bad. It has been my privilege to know
+several who are men of dignity and character.
+
+Dr. Matthews, in writing of them, thus strongly expresses himself:
+"There are, among the Navahoes, charlatans and cheats who treat
+disease; men who pretend to suck disease out of the patient, and then
+draw from their own mouths pebbles, pieces of charcoal, or bodies
+of insects, claiming that these are the disease which they have
+extracted. But the priests of the great rites are not to be classed
+with such. All of these with whom the writer is acquainted are above
+such trickery. They perform their ceremonies in the firm conviction
+that they are invoking divine aid, and their calling lends dignity to
+their character." Of Hatali Natloi, the smiling chanter, he says: "He
+would be considered a man of high character in any community. He is
+dignified, courteous, kind, honest, truthful, and self-respecting."
+
+This is the universal testimony of all who know this class of men with
+reasonable intimacy. Though the white man may believe the performances
+of a shaman ridiculous or superstitious, that need not interfere with
+his respect and esteem.
+
+To understand this subject aright, one must clearly apprehend the
+Indian meaning of the terms "medicine," and "medicine-men." Oftentimes
+the latter are called priests, sometimes thaumaturgists, oftener
+shamans, and, of course, by all unknowing white men are unhesitatingly
+denounced as frauds and humbugs. Now to the Indian all things that
+work injury to him are bad medicine. If you write his name (or any
+scrawl he cannot understand) on a piece of paper and look at it
+solemnly and then at him, at the same time shaking your head, you can
+persuade him into the belief that it is "bad medicine." Owen Wister
+recently wrote in one of the popular magazines an interesting story,
+the whole plot of which was based upon his knowledge of this fact.
+
+With the Navaho it is "bad medicine" to touch an achindee hogan (or
+house). When a person dies within a house, the rafters are tumbled over
+the body, and the whole set on fire. After that it would be exceeding
+"bad medicine" for a Navaho to go near the spot, or touch a piece of
+wood belonging to that hogan; for the spirit (the achindee) is supposed
+to remain in the locality, and he resents any undue intrusion into his
+domain. Before I was aware of the custom and feeling, I camped near
+an abandoned and partially burned hogan. When I sent my Navaho man to
+it for wood for a fire, he went half a mile away into the mountain
+and stayed there. I was unable to understand his feeling, but later I
+learned that except under the pangs of direst hunger, he would never
+have touched a morsel of food prepared over a fire in which wood from
+the achindee hogan had been used.
+
+Medicine-men are often used as instruments for the working of private
+revenge. Cowards are to be found among Indians as among white men.
+Among white men these despicable wretches attack their foes through
+the columns of newspapers or in the pages of magazines, while among
+the former they call in the services of a medicine-man. This hired
+charlatan then either directly or by proxy works upon the fears
+of the man he is hired to injure. Sometimes he actually poisons or
+otherwise harms him under pretence of protecting him. But the Indian
+is dreadfully superstitious, and to work upon his mind is easy, and he
+soon imagines himself to be sick.
+
+For the cure of disease the better class of Navaho shamans have a
+system of chanting, praying, dancing, bathing, sweating, etc., that Dr.
+Matthews has fully described in the United States Bureau of Ethnology
+reports. The complexity of these ceremonies cannot be comprehended or
+conceived by those whose knowledge of the Indian is superficial and
+casual.
+
+If, however, a shaman makes himself unpopular, or fails to cure in
+several successive cases, or earns the enmity of a treacherous shaman
+foe, he is liable to be accused of witchcraft, and if a sufficient
+number of the people can be made to believe the charge he is speedily
+done away with. One of the shamans made famous by Dr. Matthews was
+recently killed on account of his harsh and tyrannical manner. He was
+accused of witchcraft and shot. Hence it will be seen that the Navaho
+is not yet perfect--any more than his white brother. No, indeed!
+
+There are other points in which he is similar to his brother of the
+white skin. Some years ago I journeyed in a wagon with an old Arizona
+pioneer, Franklin French, from Winslow, on the line of the Santa Fé,
+through the Hopi country, the Mormon town of Tuba City, past the Navaho
+settlements of Willow Springs, Echo Reef, etc., to Lee's Ferry of the
+Colorado River.
+
+Beyond Willow Springs we camped one night, and I went to a Navaho hogan
+to purchase corn and vegetables for ourselves, and feed for the horses.
+Everything was six prices too high, but the Navahoes knew I was in
+need of their articles and raised the prices accordingly. It is not
+only the white man that understands the principle of "cornering the
+market." We compromised, however, and, after a hearty supper and a chat
+around the camp-fire, I rolled myself up in my blankets ready to sleep
+until called for breakfast in the morning.
+
+But what a babel of confusing and distressing sounds it was that
+awakened me! Surely we must be beset by a band of marauding Navahoes,
+bent on murdering us! No; it was only a wordy fight between my driver
+and three Navaho women, who had come to demand compensation for
+depredations committed in their corn-field by our horses. Hobbled,
+and turned loose, they had discovered somehow, during the night, that
+on Echo Reef were corn and other good fodder to be had in the place
+of the scant feed offered below; so, following their noses, they had
+wandered into corn-fields and melon-patches to their own delectation,
+but the manifest injury of the crops. What was to be done about it?
+French was advising that the Navahoes imitate the example of the Hopis
+and cut off a portion of the ear of each offending animal, but the
+women angrily laughed him to scorn and vociferously demanded _cinquo
+pesos_ for the damage. These were not forthcoming, but I urged the
+squaws on, telling them to insist that the hoary-headed old miser pay
+them their just demands, and informing them, in purest English, of the
+opinions French had expressed regarding them, as a people, the night
+before. The aborigines didn't quite know what to make out of my fluent
+verbosity, and French at last impatiently turned to me and told me
+there'd be a "pretty general monkey and parrot time started here pretty
+quick, if I didn't let up, and that'll be follered by a pretty tall
+foot-race between us two, in which you'll be 'way off in the lead."
+So we compromised with our dusky visitors by inviting them to eat up
+the remnants of our breakfast, and then carry away a little coffee and
+sugar. The only thing I am now afraid of is that, at the next visit
+I make them, they will privately and stealthily, under the cover of
+night, lead our steeds into the forbidden fields, and encourage them in
+their thefts, in order that they may enjoy another "compromise."
+
+Primitive peoples at an early date felt the desire for personal
+adornment. With the Navaho this found expression in painting the body
+with various colored ochres or clays, in fashioning garments out of the
+skins of animals, in wearing head-dresses and other fantastic ornaments
+made from feathers, and in necklaces, bracelets, anklets, and wristlets
+made of small flint arrowpoints, or of the dried seeds of juniper,
+pinion, and other plants, or of bones. Later they secured beads of
+shell, turquoise, and coral by barter.
+
+But nearly all this primitive decoration received a rude shock of
+displacement when the Mexican colonist came upon the scene, with his
+iron, copper, and silver adornments glittering in the sunlight. From
+coveting, the Navaho took to possessing by fair means or foul. He would
+barter his skins or other native possessions for the precious metals,
+using brass and copper for the making of ornaments, and iron for
+tipping his arrows. Silver, however, has never lost its charm for him.
+The Mexican vaquero, trapped out in the glittering metal, has ever been
+his ideal of personal adornment, and he retains it to this day. Silver
+is the only coin they care to accept, though the better educated now
+know the superior value of gold.
+
+There are some clever, skilful silversmiths among them--peshlikais, as
+they call themselves. In crucibles of their own manufacture they melt
+the precious metal, using a crude and primitive blast furnace, with
+charcoal as fuel, and the molten silver is then poured into moulds
+which they have shaped out of sandstone or other rock. They understand
+the art of uniting two pieces of metal together, for many of their
+ornaments are hollow and globular, originally made in two parts and
+then joined. Scarcely a man or woman of any standing in the tribe does
+not possess a home-manufactured necklace of silver beads or articles
+of some design,--a finger ring or two, one or more bracelets, and
+sometimes a pair of ear pendants. Above all they covet the belt with
+large silver disks. Each of these disks is made of two or more silver
+dollars, melted and run into a flat mould. This thick sheet is then
+hammered out to the required size and shape, which is either oval or
+circular, and chased with small tools. The border is generally filleted
+and the edges scalloped. When finished each disk has a value of twice
+its original cost in coin silver. Sometimes a belt will contain eight
+or nine disks and a buckle, which cannot be bought for less than
+thirty-six to forty dollars. This, too, is actual cost price. If the
+Navaho doesn't care to part with it, an extra five or ten dollars, or
+even more, is required to induce him to let it go.
+
+In addition to these objects of personal adornment, many of the more
+wealthy have silver bridles. The bridle itself is made of leather or
+woven horsehair, and then the silver strips and bars, artistically
+chased and decorated, are placed and fastened on the headstall. Silver
+buttons of pretty and tasty design are commonly used on gaiters and
+moccasins. These are made from beaten coins, twenty-five and fifty-cent
+pieces, and the obverse side is often found in its original state as
+stamped in the United States or Mexican mint.
+
+The bracelets are of various designs, sometimes simple round circlets;
+other times the silver is triangular, but the most common shape is a
+flat band, on the outer side of which chasings and gravings are made.
+These bracelets are made so that they can be slipped sideways over the
+wrist. These and all the other articles mentioned are worn equally by
+women and men.
+
+The finger rings are often adorned with a rude setting of turquoise
+or garnet. The former is found in various parts of New Mexico, and on
+their reservation they dig garnets, spinel rubies, jacinths, peridots,
+opals, smoky topaz, and crystal spar in large quantities. From the
+Petrified Forest they obtain jasper, carnelian, chalcedony, agate, and
+amethyst. All these objects are rudely polished and shaped, and used on
+rings, ear pendants, or necklaces.
+
+It has been stated that the Navaho is exceedingly superstitious about
+making or allowing to be made any representation of a snake, and
+that on one occasion a silversmith who offended by beginning to make
+a bracelet of rattlesnake design was cruelly beaten, his workshop
+demolished, and the hated emblem destroyed. This may be true, but I
+have ridden all over the Navaho reservation wearing both a rattlesnake
+ring and bracelet, and have had several made for me, on different parts
+of the reservation, by different peshlikais. I am now wearing a ring of
+rattlesnake design made by a Navaho silversmith and given to me with
+this thought as explained to me by the donor: "The snake watches and
+guards for us our springs and water-courses. Water is the most precious
+thing we possess in the desert. I make for you this ring in the form of
+a snake, that the power that guards our most precious thing may always
+guard you."
+
+[Illustration: WIFE OF LEVE LEVE, WALLAPAI CHIEF.]
+
+[Illustration: THE MARCH OF THE ANTELOPE PRIESTS, ORAIBI, 1902.]
+
+I wore this ring when unfortunately I was bitten by a rattlesnake at
+Phœnix, in February, 1902; but as I speedily recovered, I am satisfied
+that my Navaho friend will insist that it was the ring and its
+virtues that kept me from sudden death, and that hastened my complete
+recovery.[4]
+
+[4] Since writing this I visited the Hopi Snake Dance at Oraibi, in
+September, 1902. One of the Navahoes I met there informed me that he
+had come as the messenger of my peshlikai friend at Tohatchi, and he
+asked, "When _klish_ (the rattlesnake) bit you did you wear the klish
+ring?" I answered, "Yes." "Then," said he, "that was the reason you
+recovered. Had you not worn it you would speedily have died." Of course
+I believed him.
+
+A most interesting settlement of Navahoes is that of To-hatch-i, or
+Little Water, some forty miles northwest of Gallup, New Mexico. Here
+I was invited by Mrs. E. H. De Vore, the teacher of the government
+school. The drive is over an interesting country, part of which is
+covered by junipers and cedars, and where the road winds around
+strangely and fantastically sculptured rocks as it reaches the great
+Navaho plateau.
+
+The major portion of the Navahoes were kind and hospitable and greeted
+me cordially. The day after my arrival I was talking with Hosteen
+Da-ä-zhy about the other Indian tribes I had visited, when suddenly
+the thought came to me which I immediately expressed: "When I go to my
+friends the Hopis and Acomas and Zunis they always know I am weary
+and tired with my long journey across the sandy desert, and they have
+their women prepare a bowl of "tal-a-wush" and cool and refresh me by
+shampooing my head." Talawush is the Navaho for the root of the amole
+(soap-root), which, macerated and then beaten up and down in a bowl of
+water, produces a delicious lather, which, for a shampoo, has no equal.
+
+In a moment, as though grieved by his thoughtlessness and want of
+hospitality, Da-ä-zhy called to his oldest daughter, and bade her
+prepare some talawush to give me a shampoo. The woman muttered some
+protest,--"it was enough to wash her own husband's head without having
+to wash mine,"--but her father sternly rebuked her for her want of
+courtesy to the stranger. In a short time the preparations were all
+made. I sent to Mrs. De Vore and borrowed a couple of towels, and then
+in the shade outside knelt down with my head over a large bowl full
+of the refreshing suds. Very gently at first, and afterwards more
+vigorously, the good woman lathered my head--and oh, how cooling and
+soothing it was!--while her sister and the interpreter stood by and
+laughed. Then Hosteen himself came and laughed at the droll remarks of
+his daughter. This general laughter called others, and by and by Mrs.
+De Vore and her sister could not resist the temptation to come and see
+what all the fun was about. Just as they sat down, close by, my gentle
+manipulator was saying: "Navaho men have hair only on the top of their
+heads, but you have hair also on the bottom [my beard]. Shall I also
+put talawush on the bottom hair as well as the top?" Laughingly I bade
+her put it everywhere she liked, and just as my mouth was at its widest
+she brought up a handful of suds and filled it full. Of course I half
+choked, and this only made the laugh greater than ever, for, with the
+greatest coolness and sly nonchalance she exclaimed: "It is a good
+thing that you got a mouthful. White men need to have their mouths
+washed out pretty often!"
+
+And what a delightful sensation the whole operation gave one! It was
+refreshing beyond description, and, for days after, my hair was as
+silky and soft as that of a child.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+THE NAVAHO AS A BLANKET WEAVER[5]
+
+
+When the Spaniard came into Arizona and New Mexico three hundred
+and fifty years ago, he found the art of weaving in a well-advanced
+stage among the domestic and sedentary Pueblo Indians, and the wild
+and nomad Navahoes. The cotton of these blankets was grown by these
+Arizona Indians from time immemorial, and they also used the tough
+fibres of the yucca, and agave leaves, and the hairs of various wild
+animals, either separately or with cotton. Their processes of weaving
+were exactly the same then as they are to-day, there being but slight
+differences between the methods followed before the advent of the
+whites and after. Hence, in a study of Indian blanketry, as it is made
+even to-day, we are approximating nearly to the pure aboriginal methods
+of pre-Columbian times.
+
+[5] This chapter is composed mainly from an article of mine entitled
+"Indian Blanketry," which appeared in _Outing_ of March, 1902.
+
+Archæologists and ethnologists generally presume that the art of
+weaving on the loom was learned by the Navahoes from their Pueblo
+neighbors. All the facts in the case seem to bear out this supposition.
+Yet, as is well known, the Navahoes are a part of the great Athabascan
+family, which has scattered, by separate migrations, from Alaska into
+California, Arizona, and New Mexico. Many of the Alaskans are good
+weavers, and according to Navaho traditions, their ancestors, when
+they came into the country, wore blankets that were made of cedar bark
+and of yucca fibre. Even in the Alaska (Thlinket) blankets, made to-day
+of the wool of the white mountain-goat, cedar bark is twisted in with
+the wool of the warp. Why, then, should not the Navaho woman have
+brought the art of weaving, possibly in a very primitive condition,
+from her original Alaskan home? That her art, however, has been
+improved by contact with the pueblo Hopi, and other Indians, there can
+be no question, and, if she had a crude loom, it was speedily replaced
+by the one so long used by the Pueblo. Where the Pueblo weaver gained
+her loom we do not know, whether from the tribes of the South, or by
+her own invention. But in all practical ways the primitive loom was as
+complete and perfect at the Spanish conquest as it is to-day.
+
+Any loom, to be complete, must possess certain qualifications. As
+Professor Mason has well said: "In any style of mechanical weaving,
+however simple or complex, even in darning, the following operations
+are performed: First, raising and lowering alternately different sets
+of warp filaments to form the 'sheds'; second, throwing the shuttle,
+or performing some operation that amounts to the same thing; third,
+after inserting the weft thread, driving it home, and adjusting it by
+means of the batten,--be it the needle, the finger, the shuttle, or a
+separate device."
+
+The frame is made of four cottonwood or cedar poles cut from the trees
+that line the nearest stream or grow in the mountain forests. Two of
+these are forked for uprights, and the cross beams are lashed to them
+above and below. Sometimes the lower beam is dispensed with, and
+wooden pegs driven into the earth are used instead. The frame ready,
+the warp is arranged on beams, which are lashed to the top and bottom
+of the frame by means of a rawhide or horsehair riata (our Western
+word "lariat" is merely a corruption of _la riata_). Thus the warp
+is made tight and is ready for the nimble fingers of the weaver. Her
+shuttles are pieces of smooth, round stick upon the ends of which she
+has wound her yarn, or even the small balls of yarn are made to serve
+this purpose. By her side is a rude wooden comb with which she strikes
+a few stitches into place, but when she wishes to wedge the yarn of a
+complete row--from side to side--of weaving, she uses for the purpose a
+flat, broad stick, one edge of which is sharpened almost to knife-like
+keenness. This is the "batten." With the design in her brain her busy
+and skilful fingers produce the pattern as she desires it, there being
+no sketch from which she may copy. In weaving a blanket of intricate
+pattern and many colors the weaver finds it easier to open the few warp
+threads needed with her fingers and then thrust between them the small
+balls of yarn, rather than bother with a shuttle, no matter how simple.
+
+But before blankets can be made the wool must be cut from the backs
+of the sheep, cleaned, carded, spun, and dyed. It is one of the
+interesting sights of the Southwest region to see a flock of sheep
+and goats running together, watched over, perhaps, by a lad of ten or
+a dozen years, or by a woman who is ultimately to weave the fleeces
+they carry into substantial blankets. After the fleece has been
+removed from the sheep the Navaho woman proceeds to wash it. Then
+it is combed with hand cards--small flat implements in which wire
+teeth are placed--purchased from the traders. (These and the shears
+are the only modern implements used.) The dyeing is sometimes done
+before spinning, generally, however, after. The spindle used is of the
+simplest character--merely a slender stick thrust through a circular
+disk of wood. In spite of the fact that the Navahoes have seen the
+spinning-wheel in use by the Mexicans and the Mormons, who, at Tuba
+City, live practically as their neighbors, they have never cared either
+to make or steal them. Their conservatism preserves the ancient, slow
+and laborious method. Holding the spindle in the right hand, the point
+of the short end below the balancing disk resting on the ground, and
+the long end on her knee, the spinner attaches the end of her staple
+close to the disk, and then gives the spindle a rapid twirl. As it
+revolves she holds the yarn out so that it twists. As it tightens
+sufficiently she allows it to wrap on to the spindle, and repeats the
+operation until the spindle is full. The spinning is done loosely or
+tightly according to the fineness of weave required in the blanket.
+There are practically four grades of blankets made from native wool,
+and it must be prepared suitably for each grade. The coarsest is, of
+course, the easiest spun. This is to make the common blankets. These
+seldom have any other color than the native gray, white, brown, and
+black, though occasionally streaks of red or some other color will
+be introduced. The yarn for these is coarse and fuzzy, and nearly a
+quarter of an inch in diameter. The next grade is the extra common. The
+yarn for this must be a little finer, say twenty-five per cent. finer,
+and is generally in a variety of colors. The third grade is the half
+fancy, and this is closer woven yarn, and the colors are a prominent
+feature of the completed blankets. These half-fancy blankets are those
+generally offered for sale as the "genuine" Navaho material, etc., and,
+were the dyes used of native origin, this designation would be correct.
+Unfortunately, in by far the greater number of them, aniline dyes are
+used, and this, by the wise purchaser, is regarded as a misfortune.
+The next grade is the native wool fancy. These are comparatively rare
+blankets, as the yarn must be woven very tightly, and the weaving also
+done with great care. The highest grade that one will ordinary come in
+contact with is the Germantown. This style of blanket is made entirely
+of purchased Germantown yarn, which has almost superseded the native
+wool fancy, as, to the ordinary purchaser, a Germantown yarn blanket
+looks so much better than one made from its Navaho counterpart. The
+yarn is of brighter colors--necessarily so, owing to the wonderful
+chromatic gamut offered by the aniline dyes; it is spun more evenly
+(not necessarily more strongly, and, indeed, as a matter of fact, is
+far less strong), and (to the Indian) is much less trouble to procure.
+Then, too, when woven, owing to its good looks, it sells for more than
+the native wool fancy, upon which so much more work has had to be put.
+Hence Madam Navaho, being no fool, prefers to make what the people ask
+for, and "Germantowns" are turned out _ad libitum_.
+
+But, to the knowing, there is still a higher grade of blanket. This
+is not, as one expert (_sic_) would have it, an attempted copying of
+ancient blankets, but a continuation of an art which he declares to
+be lost. There are several old weavers who preserve in themselves all
+the old and good of the best days of blanket weaving. They use native
+dyes, native wool,--with bayeta when they can get it,--and they spin
+their wool to a tension that makes it as durable as fine steel. They
+weave with care, and after the old fashions, following the ancient
+shapes and designs, and produce blankets that are as good as any that
+were ever made in the palmiest days of the art. Such blankets take
+long in weaving, and are both rare and expensive. I have just had one
+of these fine blankets made (January, 1903), and in every sense of the
+word it is equal to any old blanket I ever saw.
+
+The common blankets and the extra common are sold by the pound, the
+price, of course, varying, and of late years steadily increasing.
+Half-fancy blankets are generally sold by the piece, and vary in price
+according to the harmony of the colors, the fineness of the weave, and
+the striking characteristics of the design. This is also true of native
+wool fancy, the price being determined by the Indian according to her
+notions of the length of the purchaser's purse. On the other hand,
+Germantown yarn having a fixed purchasable price, the blankets made
+from it are to be bought by the pound.
+
+These remarks, necessarily, refer to the original purchases from the
+Indian. There are no general rules of purchase price followed by
+traders, dealers, or retail salesmen.
+
+In the original colors, as I have already shown, there are white,
+brown, gray, and black, the last rather a grayish-black, or, better
+still, as Matthews describes it, rusty. He also says: "They still
+employ to a great extent their native dyes of yellow, reddish, and
+black. There is good evidence that they formerly had a blue dye;
+but indigo, originally introduced, I think, by the Mexicans, has
+susperseded this. If they, in former days, had a native blue and a
+native yellow, they must also, of course, have had a green, and they
+now make green of their native yellow and indigo, the latter being the
+only imported dye-stuff I have ever seen in use among them.... The
+brilliant red figures in their finer blankets were, a few years ago,
+made entirely of bayeta, and this material is still (1881) largely
+used. Bayeta is a bright scarlet cloth with a long nap, much finer in
+appearance than the scarlet strouding which forms such an important
+article in the Indian trade of the North."
+
+This bayeta or baize was unravelled, and the Indian often retwisted the
+warp to make it firmer than originally, and then rewove it into his
+incomparable blankets.
+
+From information mainly gained by Mr. G. H. Pepper, of the American
+Museum of Natural History, during his three years' sojourn with the
+Navahoes as head of the Hyde Exploring Expedition, I present the
+following accounts of their native dyes. From the earliest days the
+Navahoes have been expert dyers, their colors being black, brick-red,
+russet, blue, yellow, and a greenish-yellow akin to the shade known
+as old gold. To make the black dye three ingredients are used; viz.,
+yellow ochre, pinion gum, and the leaves and twigs of the aromatic
+sumac (_Rhus aromatica_). The ochre is pulverized and roasted until it
+becomes a light brown, when it is removed from the fire and mixed with
+an equal amount of pinion gum. This mixture is then placed on the fire,
+and as the roasting continues it first becomes mushy, then drier and
+darker, until nothing but a fine black powder is left. In the meantime
+the sumac leaves and twigs are being boiled, five or six hours being
+required to fully extract the juices. When both are somewhat cooled
+they are mixed, and almost immediately a rich bluish-black fluid is
+formed.
+
+For yellow dye the tops of a flowering weed (_Bigelovia graveolens_)
+are boiled for several hours until the liquid assumes a deep yellow
+color. As soon as the dyer deems the extraction of the color juices
+nearly complete, she takes some native alum (_almogen_) and heats it
+over the fire, and, when it becomes pasty, gradually adds it to the
+boiling decoction, which slowly becomes of the required yellow color.
+
+The brick-red dye is extracted from the bark and roots of the sumac,
+and ground black alder bark, with the ashes of the juniper as a
+mordant. She now immerses the wool and allows it to remain in the dye
+from half an hour to an hour.
+
+Whence come the designs incorporated by these simple weavers into their
+blankets, sashes, and dresses? In this, as in basketry and pottery,
+the answer is found in nature. Indeed, many of their textile designs
+suggest a derivation from basketry ornamentation (which originally came
+from nature), "as the angular, curveless figures of interlaying plaits
+predominate, and the principal subjects are the same--conventional
+devices representing clouds, stars, lightning, the rainbow, and
+emblems of the deities. But these simple forms are produced in endless
+combination and often in brilliant, kaleidoscopic grouping, presenting
+broad effects of scarlet and black, of green, yellow, and blue upon
+scarlet, and wide ranges of color skilfully blended upon a ground of
+white. The centre of the fabric is frequently occupied with tessellated
+or lozenge patterns of multi-colored sides, or divided into panels of
+contrasting colors in which different designs appear; some display
+symmetric zigzags, converging and spreading throughout their length; in
+others, bands of high color are defined by zones of neutral tints, or
+parted by thin, bright lines into a checkered mosaic, and in many only
+the most subdued shades appear. Fine effects are obtained by using a
+soft, gray wool in its natural state, to form the body of the fabric in
+solid color, upon which figures in orange and scarlet are introduced;
+also in those woven in narrow stripes of black and deep blue, having
+the borders relieved in bright tinted meanders along the sides and
+ends, or with a central colored figure in the dark body, with the
+design repeated in a diagonal panel at each corner.
+
+"The greatest charm, however, of these primitive fabrics, is the
+unrestrained freedom shown by the weaver in her treatment of primitive
+conventions. To the checkered emblem of the rainbow she adds sweeping
+rays of color, typifying sunbeams; below the many-angled cloud group,
+she inserts random pencil lines of rain; or she softens the rigid
+meander, signifying lightning, with graceful interlacing, and shaded
+tints. Not confining herself alone to these traditional devices, she
+invents her own methods to introduce curious, realistic figures of
+common objects,--her grass brush, wooden weaving fork, a stalk of corn,
+a bow, an arrow, or a plume of feathers from a dancer's mask. Thus,
+although the same characteristic styles of weaving and decoration
+are general, yet none of the larger designs are ever reproduced with
+mechanical exactness; each fabric carries some distinct variation, some
+suggestion of the occasion of its making, woven into form as the fancy
+arose."
+
+I have thus quoted from an unpublished manuscript of one of the
+greatest Navaho authorities of the United States--Mr. A. M. Stephen--in
+order to confirm my own oft-repeated and sometimes challenged
+statements that the Navaho weaver finds in nature her designs, and that
+in most of her better blankets there is woven "some suggestion of the
+occasion of its making."
+
+This imitative faculty is, _par excellence_, the controlling force in
+aboriginal decoration so far as I know the Amerind of the Southwest.
+
+With many of the younger women, submission to the imitative faculty in
+weaving is becoming an injury instead of a blessing. Instead of looking
+to nature for their models, or finding pleasure in the religious
+symbolism of the older weavers, they have sunk into a lazy, apathetic
+disregard, and they slavishly and carelessly imitate the work of their
+elders. This is growingly true, I am sorry to say, with both basket
+makers and blanket weavers. On my recent trips I have come in contact
+with many fair specimens, both in basketry and blanketry, and when I
+have asked for an explanation of the design the reply has been: "Me no
+sabe! I make 'em all same old basket, or all same old Navaho blanket."
+Here is perversion of the true imitative faculty which sought its pure
+and original inspiration from nature.
+
+It will not be out of place here to correct a few general
+misapprehensions in regard to the older and more valuable Navaho
+blankets. These erroneous ideas are partly the result of the
+misstatements of an individual who sought thereby to enhance the value
+of his own collection.
+
+It is true that good bayeta blankets are comparatively rare, but they
+are far more common than he would have his readers believe. The word
+"bayeta" is nothing but the simple Spanish for the English baize, and
+is spelled bayeta, and not "balleta" or "vayeta." It is a bright red
+baize with a long nap, made especially in England for Spanish trade
+(not Turkish, as this "expert" claims), and by the Spanish and Mexicans
+sold to the Indians. Up to as late as 1893 bayeta blankets were being
+made plentifully. Since then comparatively few have been made. The
+bayeta was a regular article of commerce, and could be purchased at any
+good wholesale house in New York. It was generally sold by the rod,
+and not by the pound. The duty now is so high that its importation is
+practically prohibited, it being, I believe, about sixty per cent. And
+yet I am personally acquainted with several weavers who will imitate
+perfectly, in bayeta, any blanket ever woven, and that the native dyes
+for other colors will be used. We are told that an Indian woman will
+not take the time to weave blankets such as were made in the olden
+time. I have several that took nine, twelve, and thirteen months to
+make, and if the pay is good enough any weaver will work on a blanket
+a year, or even two years, if necessary. The length of time makes no
+difference, as several traders in Indian blankets can vouch. Indeed,
+it would be quite possible to obtain the perfect reproduction of any
+blanket in existence, which would be satisfactory to any board of
+genuine experts, the only differences between the new and the ancient
+blankets being those inseparable from newness and age.
+
+While bayeta blankets are not common by any means, they aggregate many
+scores in the mass, and are to be found in many collections, both East
+and West. It is a difficult matter to even suggest in a photograph or
+an engraving any idea of the beauty and charm of one of these old
+Navaho blankets.
+
+[Illustration: AN AGED NAVAHO AND HER HOGAN.]
+
+[Illustration: NAVAHO FAMILY AND HOGAN IN THE PAINTED DESERT.]
+
+It will be observed that I have written as if the major portion of
+the weaving of Navaho blankets was done by the women. Dr. Matthews,
+however, writing in or before 1881, says that "there are ... a few men
+who practise the textile art, and among them are to be found the best
+artisans of the tribe." Of these men but one or two are now alive, if
+any, and I have seen one only who still does the weaving.
+
+In late years a few Navaho weavers have invented a method of weaving
+a blanket both sides of which are different. The Salish stock of
+Indians make baskets the designs of which on the inside are different
+from those on the outside, but this is done by a simple process of
+imbrication, easy to understand, which affords no key to a solution of
+the double-faced Navaho blanket. I have purchased two or three such
+blankets, but as yet have not found a weaver who would show me the
+process of weaving. Dr. Matthews thinks this new invention cannot date
+farther back than 1893, as prior to that time Mr. Thomas V. Keam, the
+oldest trader with the Navahoes, had never seen one. Yet one collector
+declares he had one as far back as fifteen years ago.
+
+In addition to the products of the vertical loom the Navaho and also
+the Pueblo women weave a variety of smaller articles of wear, all of
+which are remarkable for their strength and durability as well as for
+their striking designs.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+THE WALLAPAIS
+
+
+It is hard to conceive of a people, numbering nearly a thousand souls,
+lodged within the borders of the United States, of whom nothing has
+been written. The only references to the Wallapais are to be found in
+the casual remarks of travellers or soldiers, and later, the agent's
+reports to the Commissioner of Indian Affairs. Perhaps the earliest
+reference to them is in Padre Garcés' Diary, where, in describing the
+Mohaves, he says the Wallapais (spelling the name Jaguallapais) are
+their enemies on the east. Then, on leaving the Mohaves and journeying
+east, he himself reaches the tribe in the neighborhood of where the
+town of Kingman now stands. Six miles northwest of Kingman are located
+Beale's Springs, which pour forth the best supply of water in the whole
+region; hence it was natural that the Wallapais should have established
+their homes near it. In the Wallapai Origin Legend the story of their
+dispersion to this region is told. The Wallapai Mountains are close by,
+a few miles to the southeast, and from the pines of these mountains
+they get their name; "Wal-la," tall pine; "pai," people,--the people of
+the tall pine.[6]
+
+[6] There are several other fair springs in the vicinity, chiefly
+Johnson's to the north of Kingman, and Gentile Springs, below the pass
+through which the Santa Fé railway enters Sacramento Valley.
+
+Garcés says the people received him hospitably and "conducted
+themselves with me as comported with the affection that I had shown
+toward them." Their dress was antelope skins and "some shirts of Moki,"
+doubtless the cotton woven shirts of these primitive weavers.
+
+Lieutenant Ives, in his interesting report of his early explorations
+in this region, describes the Wallapais in Peach Springs and Diamond
+Canyons, another of their favored locations, and Captain Bourke in his
+"On the Border with Crook" makes passing mention of them.
+
+On January 4, 1883, President Arthur decreed the following as their
+reservation:--
+
+ "It is hereby ordered that the following-described tract of country
+ situated in the Territory of Arizona be, and the same is hereby, set
+ aside and reserved for the use and occupancy of the Hualapai Indians,
+ namely: Beginning at a point on the Colorado River five miles eastward
+ of Tinnakah Spring; thence south twenty miles to crest of high mesa;
+ thence south forty degrees east twenty-five miles to a point of Music
+ Mountains; thence east fifteen miles; thence north fifty degrees east
+ thirty-five miles; thence north thirty miles to the Colorado River;
+ thence along said river to the place of beginning; the southern
+ boundary being at least two miles south of Peach Spring, and the
+ eastern boundary at least two miles east of Pine Spring. All bearings
+ and distances being approximate.
+
+ "CHESTER A. ARTHUR."
+
+Owing to the abundant supply of water at Beale's Springs the settlement
+there naturally became a stopping-place for all travel across that
+portion of Arizona. It was the favorite camping-place of the wagons
+travelling between Fort Mohave and Fort Whipple, near Phœnix.
+Johnson's and Gentile Springs also being in line, and the pass just
+below Kingman leading into the Sacramento Valley being the most natural
+outlet for a railway, the building of the Atlantic and Pacific, by
+which name the section of the great Santa Fé transcontinental system
+which extends from Albuquerque, New Mexico, to Barstow, California, was
+originally known--found the Wallapais and at once put them in contact
+with the outside world and our civilization. Unfortunately the actual
+builders of a railway and their followers do not always represent the
+best elements of our civilization, and the meeting in this case was
+decidedly against the best interests of the Wallapais. Close proximity,
+also, to a border mining town, such as Kingman, has not tended to the
+elevation of the morals or ideals of the Wallapais, and in a short time
+many of those who resided near the railways became known for their
+degradation. The men yielded to the white men's vices and soon inducted
+their women into the same courses, so that for a long period of years
+the name Wallapai seemed to be almost synonymous with drunkenness,
+gambling, wild orgies, and the utmost degradation. In those days it was
+no uncommon sight to see as many as twenty men, women, and children
+lying around drunk in either Kingman or Hackberry, and I have personal
+knowledge of several cases where fathers took their daughters and sold
+them to white men, into a bondage infinitely worse and more degrading
+than slavery.
+
+Of late years this condition has been largely improved. When the
+government schools were established and a field matron sent to work
+with the Wallapais, new elements of our civilization were introduced to
+these unfortunates, and nobly they have responded. With few exceptions
+they are now industrious, sober, honest, and reliable.
+
+The Wallapais are of Yuman stock. In appearance they more nearly
+resemble the Mohaves found at Parker, on the reservation, than any
+other of the peoples in the immediate region. They have the same stout,
+sturdy, fleshy build, heavy faces, and general habits, though in many
+respects they are a different people. They regard the Havasupais as
+their cousins, and the speech of the two peoples is very similar.
+Indeed any person who can speak the one can easily be understood by one
+who speaks the other.
+
+According to their traditions, it was one of the mythical heroes of the
+Wallapais--Pach-i-tha-a-wi--who made the Grand Canyon. There had been a
+big flood and the earth was covered with water. No one could stir but
+Pach-i-tha-a-wi, and he went forth carrying a big knife he had prepared
+of flint, and a large, heavy wooden club. He struck the knife deep
+into the water-covered ground and then smote it deeper and deeper with
+his club. He moved it back and forth as he struck it further into the
+earth, until the canyon was formed through which all the water rushed
+out into the Sea of the Sunset. Then, as the sun shone, the ground
+became hard and solid as we find it to-day.
+
+In physical appearance the Wallapais are a far coarser and heavier
+type than the Navahoes. They are medium in height, small-boned, and
+fat. Their features are heavy and coarse. The nose is flat between the
+eyes and broad at the base, and the nostrils large, denoting good lung
+power and capacity. The septum is very large and heavy. The cheek-bones
+generally are high and prominent, and the chin well rounded, rather
+than square, like that of most of the Navahoes. Their shoulders are
+broad, with head set close in. Seldom is a long-necked man or woman
+seen. The upper lips are full and the under ones thick, with a slight
+droop at the corners. The eyes are large and limpid, brown or black,
+and capable of great seriousness or merry sparklings. The foreheads
+are narrow, rounding off on each side. The heads are round without any
+great fulness of the back regions. Most of them have good teeth, white
+and strong, though the use of white men's coffee, baking powder, and
+other demoralizing foods and drinks, have begun to work appreciable
+injury to them.
+
+The women generally wear their hair banged over the forehead, so that
+the eyebrows are almost covered, and the rest of the hair is cut off
+level with the shoulders, so that a well-combed head of hair falls
+heavily around the whole head, covering the major part of the cheeks
+and sides of the chin. I once made an interesting discovery in regard
+to this almost complete covering up of the face with the hair. I wished
+to make a photograph of a woman I had long known and been friendly
+with. As her eyes and face were scarcely distinguishable, I took the
+liberty of putting back the hair from her cheeks. She arose in anger,
+and for three years refused to speak or meet me. I had given to her the
+most serious insult a man could offer to a Wallapai woman. The hair is
+coarse, thick, and black, though after a shampoo with amole root it
+is silky and glossy. The men tie the "banda" around the forehead and
+seldom wear a hat except when in the towns of the white men.
+
+As a rule both men and women have sweet and soft voices, though a few
+are harsh and forbidding.
+
+The tattoo is common. The work is done with pins, and charcoal is
+rubbed in as the punctures are made. This gives a bluish-black
+appearance which is permanent. They also paint their faces in red,
+yellow, and black. The chief purpose of both tattooing and painting is
+to enhance their beauty, though there are times when the tattooing has
+a distinct significance.
+
+[Illustration: NAVAHO WOMAN ON HORSEBACK.]
+
+[Illustration: THE WINNER OF THE "GALLO" RACE AT TOHATCHI.]
+
+In school the boys and girls are slow but sure in their learning. They
+read, write, spell, and figure with accuracy and speed, and compare
+favorably with white children in the rapidity of their progress. Most
+of the schoolgirls are heavily built and coarse,--indeed, all but two
+children, the daughters of Bi-cha (commonly called Beecher), who are
+slim and slight.
+
+In another chapter I have explained the charge that Wallapai parents
+were unkind, even cruel to their children. That charge can no
+longer be maintained. They are kindness itself, as a rule, and from
+babyhood up the children receive all the care of which the parents
+deem them needful. Some of their babes are as chubby and pretty and
+sweet-tempered as any I have ever seen, and much fun have I had in
+photographing those who were especially attractive to me. One mother
+enjoyed my appreciation of her offspring and was most good-natured in
+yielding to my desire to often photograph her. The little one would
+coo and laugh and kick her little feet and legs in merriment, or go
+to sleep in my or her mother's arms, or even when standing up in her
+wicker cradle. When I hung her up upon the wall she soberly looked at
+me, but made no demonstration of fear. Her mother, however, looked to
+see what I was doing. I bade her gaze upon her child, and the merry
+laugh she gave would have been an astonishment to those who regard the
+Indian as dull, stolid, expressionless.
+
+Indeed one of the most laughing merry sprites it has ever been my good
+fortune to know is a Wallapai maiden of some eighteen years. Seldom is
+she seen any other way than smiling or cheerily laughing. She is a
+perfect witch for mischief and practical jokes, and is never so happy
+as when she can perpetrate one upon a white man whom she can trust.
+In that word "trust" lies the whole key to the demeanor of an Indian,
+either man, woman, or child, towards a white person. If you are trusted
+the whole inner life is left open as a clear page; if not, the book is
+closed, locked, sealed, and the key thrown away.
+
+I had long wished to photograph the Wallapais, but they had always
+objected. When I arrived at Kingman I sent Pu-chil-ow-a, the
+interpreter and policeman, to call a powwow. I sent an express
+invitation to the chiefs, Serum, Leve-leve, Sus-quat-i-mi, and
+Qua-su-la. Serum was away at Mineral Park with a band of Wallapais
+whose services he farms out to the mine owners, Leve-leve was sick and
+not expected to live, but Sus-quat-i-mi and Quasula would come.
+
+We were permitted to use the schoolhouse, and just about sunset I was
+busily engaged when there came a loud rap at the door. I hastened to
+open it, and there stood a dignified, well-built, slightly bearded,
+neatly dressed man, who smiled and bowed with dignity and courtesy. He
+wore a cap, and at first sight looked more like a retired sea-captain
+than anything, so I responded to his bow with the question as to what
+did I owe the honor of his visit.
+
+"Why, you sent for me!" he replied.
+
+"I sent for you? When?"
+
+Then he heartily laughed and exclaimed: "You no sapogi me? I'm
+Sus-quat-i-mi, Wallapai Charley."
+
+To say I was surprised was to put it mildly.
+
+Later on Quasula, Big Water (Ha-jiv-a-ha), Eagle Feather
+(Sa-ka-lo-ka), Acorn Flour (Ā-tī-na), Coyote Eating Fish-gut
+(Ka-ha-cha-va), and other leading men came, and we had quite an
+interesting meeting. I stated to them my object in coming: "There are
+many of your white brothers who live between the Great Waters of the
+Sunrise and Sunset who wish to know more of their red-faced brothers
+of the Painted Desert. I have come for years among you to find out
+and to tell them. When I speak of Quasula they ask me to tell what he
+looks like, and I tell them as well as I can, but if I could show them
+a sun-picture they would know so much better than my words make clear.
+So I wish you no longer to be as children and babes. I have made the
+sun-pictures of Navahoes, Hopis, Havasupais, Apaches, Pimas, Acomas,
+Paiutis, and others; why should I not make yours?"
+
+When they presented their superstitions, I reasoned against them, and
+finally Quasula settled the whole matter in my favor by rising and
+saying with great dignity: "We have heard our brother with the white
+face and black beard. He speaks in one way,--not in two ways at once.
+His words breathe truth. We need not fear the sun-picture. I will go
+to him to-morrow and he shall make as many sun-pictures of me and
+my family as he desires. I want him to be able to tell to our white
+brothers who live by the Sunrise Sea all he has learned of us. We are a
+poor, ignorant people, we are few and do not know much. The white men
+are many and they know as much as they are many. Let them send more
+people to teach us and our children and we will gladly welcome them.
+Some of our people have been bad. Bad white men have made them worse.
+We want the bad men to be kept away, but we will welcome good white
+men, and our children shall learn from them and be wise."
+
+Then Sus-quat-i-mi arose, and in heavy and somewhat pompous speech
+said: "Many years ago our white brother made my sun-picture at Peach
+Springs. He has eaten tunas, mescal, pinion nuts, and corn at my hawa.
+We have slept side by side under the same stars, and the same wind has
+played with his beard and my hair. I know him. He knows me. His words
+are straight. When he made my sun-picture he said it would do me no
+harm, and here I am, after several snows, and I am as well as ever. He
+shall make more sun-pictures of me to-morrow, and I will sing for him
+and dance the war-dance of my people."
+
+Big Water and the others followed and my aim was accomplished. Next
+morning we set forth,--Puchilowa, my friend and photographer, Mr. C.
+C. Pierce, of Los Angeles, and myself,--laden down with four cameras
+and an abundance of plates and films. We succeeded in getting many
+photographs, some of which are here reproduced. But at one camp, an old
+woman, the grandmother, doubtless, of two children left in her care,
+refused to be pictured. She covered herself up and bade the children
+hide their faces, but their curiosity overcame their fears and they
+were "caught."
+
+Poor old Leve-leve and his wife were found, both of them nearly blind,
+in their miserable hawa, a mile or so from Kingman. I had some useful
+medicament for their eyes, and although it hurt dreadfully, they both
+patiently bore the pain while I gave their eyes treatment. By the side
+of the old man was his gourd rattle, which the shaman had left to
+help him drive away sickness, and for hours the old man sat quietly
+singing and rattling, endeavoring to get rid of the evil powers that
+were cursing him. While I made a picture of him in the dark hut, his
+wife went into an inner room and soon returned clad in an elaborately
+fringed apron of buckskin. This was her ceremonial costume, made by
+Leve-leve for her as the mother of the tribe, when she led the annual
+dance of thanksgiving for the corn and melon harvest.
+
+Sus-quat-i-mi was as good as his word, and I not only secured some
+excellent photographs of him, but he sang for me into the graphophone
+some of his ceremonial songs.
+
+The Wallapais' war-song is a stirring and exciting one, and it conveys
+us back to the days when their primitive weapons were in use. After
+an incitation to anger against the foe it bids the warriors "get
+rocks and tie them up in buckskins; make of them fierce and deadly
+battle-hammers, with which smite and kill your foes. Take the horns
+of the buck and sharpen them, and with them seek the hearts of your
+enemies with blows skilful and strong."
+
+Puchilowa sang for me the Wallapai song on the death of their chiefs.
+It is a weird, mournful melody, which, however, I have not yet had
+time and opportunity to transcribe from the graphophone. It says: "Our
+chief, our father, our friend, is dead. His voice is silent, his tread
+is silent. Come together, ye his friends, and cry about with sorrow.
+Burn up his body that his spirit may go to the world of spirits. Burn
+up his house that his spirit may not long to stay around. Burn up all
+his possessions that they may be with him in the spirit world. Then
+let no one to whom he belonged stay near the place where he died. Move
+away, that his spirit may feel nothing to keep him to the earth."
+
+Hence it will be seen that the Wallapai is naturally a believer in
+cremation. Indeed he still practises the burning of his dead, except
+where white influences are brought to bear. These influences are not
+altogether a perfect good. There is no harm in burning the dead, but,
+unfortunately, the general Indian belief is that the goods of the
+deceased, his horses, his guns, his clothes,--indeed, all his personal
+possessions, and the gifts of his friends,--should also be burned to
+accompany him to the spirit world. If this destruction of valuable
+property could be arrested without interfering with the corporeal
+cremation, it would be a good thing.
+
+The thanksgiving song for harvest, though purely Indian, is a much more
+cheerful melody. Puchilowa gave me the words, as well as sang the song
+in the graphophone, but he was unable to tell what the words meant.
+"The old Indians gave me this song long time ago. I sing it all 'a time
+at harvest. I no sapogi (understand) what it means."
+
+ "Ho si a ya ma,
+ In ya a sonk a kīt a,
+ In ya va va vam
+ Ho si a ya ma
+ In ya ha sak a kīt a,"
+
+etc., _ad infinitum_.
+
+There are three native policemen, engaged by the Indian department,
+among the Wallapais,--Puchilowa, (Jim Fielding), at Truxton;
+Su-jin´-i-mi (Indian Jack), at Kingman; and Wa-wa-ti´-chi-mi, at
+Chloride. Each receives ten dollars per month for his services. It was
+the former who acted as interpreter during my last visit.
+
+I had just finished making the photographs of Quasula and one or two
+others, when an old woman and her husband came in from the desert. As
+he sat waiting for me to photograph him, he took some prickly pears
+from his bundle and began to eat them. I had often seen tourists from
+the East fill their fingers with the almost invisible and countless
+spines of the prickly pear, so I asked At-e-e how he gathered them.
+Picking up a stick, he sharpened one end, thrust it into his fruit,
+and, as if it were still on the tree, chopped it off with his knife.
+Now, still holding it on the stick, he peeled it and then handed it
+to me to eat. It is a slightly sweet and acid fruit, dainty enough in
+flavor, but so crowded with annoying small seeds as not to pay for the
+trouble of separating them.
+
+Elsewhere I have described the method of making fire with the drill.
+While talking with Atee, to whom I had given some tobacco which he
+twisted into a cigarette, he suddenly asked me for a match. I said I
+would give him a boxful if he would make a fire without a match. In
+a minute he set to work. He borrowed the walking cane of Puchilowa,
+which had just the right kind of end to it, and then, getting a piece
+of softer, half-rotten but very dry wood, he bored a small hole in it.
+Now, taking the stick, he placed the end of it into the hole, and then,
+rubbing the stick between his hands, he made it revolve so rapidly that
+in a minute or less a slight smoke could be seen in the hole where the
+end of the stick was revolving. Stopping for just a moment, he got some
+dry punk and put it into the hole and around the end of the stick and
+began to twirl it again, at the same time gently blowing on the punk.
+In less time than it takes me to write it he had got a spark. This he
+blew gently until it became two, or three and more, and then with a
+few pieces of shredded cedar bark he picked up the sparks, blew them
+more and more until the bark was ignited, and in five minutes he had a
+good camp-fire.
+
+Mescal is one of the chief native foods of both Wallapais and
+Havasupais. They call it vi-yal. It is made in winter, when the plant
+is fullest of moisture. It is a species of cactus that is treated as
+follows: A sharp stick is thrust into the plant to see if it is soft
+and moist enough. Then the outer leaves are cut off until the white,
+pulpy, and fibrous masses inside are exposed. This is the part used. It
+is cooked in large pits, ten or more feet in diameter. A hole is dug in
+the ground, or better still, in a mass of rocky débris. Plenty of wood
+is laid in the hole, and this covered over with small pieces of rock
+upon which the material to be cooked is placed four or five feet high.
+This, in turn, is also covered with small stones, grass, and dirt to
+keep in the heat. The wood is then fired and allowed to burn for two or
+more days. Then the dirt and grass are taken off, and if the mass has
+cooked brown it is removed, piled upon flat rocks, and then pounded by
+the women into big flat sheets, three or four feet wide and twice as
+long. Exposure in the sun rapidly dries it, when it is folded up into
+two or three feet lengths, taken home, and stored for winter use.
+
+Sometimes the mescal is pounded and eaten raw, and again it is pounded,
+soaked in plenty of water, partially fermented, and the liquor used as
+a drink.
+
+The fruit of the tuna (a-te-e) is sometimes pounded and rolled into a
+large mass, dried, and put away for future use. Thus prepared it will
+keep for a long time, very often being brought out a year after, when
+the new crop is nearly ripe.
+
+Other natural vegetable foods of the Wallapais are a black grass seed
+(a-gua-va), white grass seed (i-eh-la), the acorn and the pinion nut
+(o-co-o).
+
+The shamans and others sometimes take the jimson-weed
+(smal-a-ga-to´-a), pound it up, soak it, and drink the decoction. It
+is a frightful drink, producing results worse than whiskey. For a time
+the debauchee sees visions and dreams dreams, then he becomes crazy
+and frantic, and then, exhausted, tosses in a quieter delirium until
+restored to his senses, to be nervously racked for days afterwards.
+The Havasupais are so bitter against its use that their children are
+brought up to regard it as one of the most dangerous and evil of plants.
+
+Until Miss Calfee, of the Indian Association, was sent to work among
+the Wallapais, they had so entirely neglected the art of basket weaving
+as to let it almost entirely die out amongst them. By her endeavors,
+however, it has been resuscitated, and now there are quite a number
+of fairly good Wallapai baskets made. The inordinate love of bright
+colors manifested by the average white tourist--note I say tourist,
+and not Indian--is so completely perverting the taste of the Wallapais
+as to render it almost impossible to buy a basket which contains only
+the primitive colors. These are mainly the white of the willow and the
+black of the martynia. A straw-color, a yellow, and a red are also
+native with them, the dyes being vegetable and mineral secured from
+plants, roots, and rocks close at hand. Some of the younger girls
+have set themselves to learn the art, and one of them is already most
+successful. She is a bright and cheerful maiden, and the basket she
+holds in her lap is of her own manufacture. The design is worked out
+in martynia. It represents the plateaus and valleys of her home, and
+the inverted pyramid is the tornado or cyclone. It is her prayer to
+Those Above to keep the cyclone in the centre of the plateaus so that
+no injury may be done to her parents' corn-fields, melon-patches, and
+peach-trees which are in the canyon depths.
+
+The Wallapais have had the same trouble about the white man seizing the
+best land on their reservation that most other tribes have been subject
+to. When the reserve was set apart by executive order a man named
+Spencer was living on land included therein, and he claimed two of the
+finest of the springs, one, that of Mattaweditita, being their most
+sacred of places. He was soon murdered, whether by Indians or whites I
+am unable to say, and no one occupied these springs until a man named
+W. F. Grounds, regardless of the executive order, took possession of,
+and claimed, Mattaweditita to the exclusion of the Wallapais. This he
+sold to a man named J. W. Munn. Later he and Munn had quarrels about
+it and both claimed it. Then the Indian Agent interfered, and, finding
+that the Indians had always claimed it as their own, that it was on
+their reserve, and that they actually wished to continue to cultivate
+it, he ordered both men to leave. Grounds had about seventy-five
+head of cattle and Munn had a garden. The latter vacated quietly,
+but Grounds brought back his cattle after they were removed. In the
+meantime the Indians had planted their gardens, and when the cattle
+came in their crops were speedily demolished. Again the cattle were
+removed and again brought back. About this time some one generously
+gave to the Indians, or left where they could be picked up, some
+melons or cucumbers or both, of which fourteen of the Wallapais living
+in Mattaweditita Canyon partook. Of the fourteen, thirteen sickened
+and died. Of course there was no way of fastening this dastardly and
+cowardly crime upon any one, but whites as well as Indians are pretty
+generally agreed as to who was its perpetrator.
+
+The few remaining Indians were now given wire to fence in the canyon,
+but the old animals of Grounds' herds pushed the wires down in their
+eagerness to get to and eat the Indians' wheat. The trails were now
+fenced, and this proved an effectual bar. Later this exemplary white
+man turned a band of saddle horses into an Indian's garden on the
+reservation for pasturage. This brought upon him an order of exclusion
+from the reservation and a command to entirely remove his stock within
+a year. Whether this has been done or not I am unable to say, although
+the Department at Washington confirmed the order and required that it
+be done.
+
+During all this squabbling it can well be imagined how the crops of the
+Indian suffers; but what must be his conception of white men, their
+government, and their justice?
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+THE ADVENT OF THE WALLAPAIS
+
+
+In the days of the long ago, when the world was young, there emerged
+from Shi-pá-pu two gods, who had come from the underworld, named
+To-cho-pa and Ho-ko-ma-ta. When these brothers first stood upon the
+surface of the earth, they found it impossible to move around, as the
+sky was pressed down close to the ground. They decided that, as they
+wished to remain upon the earth, they must push the sky up into place.
+Accordingly, they pushed it up as high as they could with their hands,
+and then got long sticks and raised it still higher, after which they
+cut down trees and pushed it up higher still, and then, climbing the
+mountains, they forced it up to its present position, where it is out
+of reach of all human kind, and incapable of doing them any injury.
+
+While they were busy with their labors, another mythical hero appeared
+on the scene, on the north side of the Grand Canyon, not far from the
+canyon that is now known as Eldorado Canyon. Those were the "days of
+the old," when the animals had speech even as men, and in many things
+were wiser than men. The Coyote travelled much and knew many things,
+and he became the companion of this early-day man, and taught him of
+his wisdom. This gave the early man his name, Ka-that-a-ka-na-ve, which
+means "Told or Taught by the Coyote."
+
+[Illustration: A WALLAPAI, MAKING A MEAL ON THE FRUIT OF THE TUNA, OR
+PRICKLY PEAR.]
+
+[Illustration: WALLAPAI MAIDEN AND PRAYER BASKET.]
+
+For long they lived together, until the man began to grow lonesome.
+He no longer listened to the speech of the Coyote, and that made the
+animal sad. He wondered what could be done to bring comfort to his
+human friend, and at length suggested that he consult Those Above.
+Kathat-a-kanave was lonesome because there were none others of his kind
+to talk to. He longed for human beings, so, accepting the advice of the
+Coyote, he retired to where he could speak freely to Those Above of
+his longings and desires. He was listened to with attention, and there
+told that nothing was easier than that other men, with women, should
+be sent upon the earth. "Build a stone hawa--stone house--not far from
+Eldorado Canyon, and then go down to where the waters flow and cut from
+the banks a number of canes or sticks. Cut many, and of six kinds.
+Long thick sticks and long thin sticks; medium-sized thick sticks and
+medium-sized thin sticks; short thick sticks and short thin sticks. Lay
+these out carefully and evenly in the stone hawa, and when the darkest
+hour of the night comes, the Powers of the Above will change them into
+human beings. But, beware, lest any sound is made. No voice must speak,
+or the power will cease to work."
+
+Gladly Kathat-a-kanave returned to the stone house, and with a hearty
+good-will he cut many canes or sticks. He carried them to the house,
+and laid them out as he had been directed, all the time accompanied
+by the Coyote, who rejoiced to see his friend so cheerful and happy.
+Kathat-a-kanave told Coyote what was to occur, and Coyote rejoiced
+in the wonderful event that was about to take place. When all was
+ready Kathat-a-kanave was so wearied with his arduous labors that he
+retired to lie down and sleep, and bade Coyote watch and be especially
+mindful that no sound of any kind whatever issued from his lips.
+Coyote solemnly pledged himself to observe the commands,--he would
+not cease from watching, and not a sound should be uttered. Feeling
+secure in these promises, Kathat-a-kanave stretched out and was soon
+sound asleep. Carefully Coyote watched. Darker grew the night. No
+sound except the far-away twho! twho! of the owl disturbed the perfect
+stillness. Suddenly the sticks began to move. In the pitch blackness
+of the house interior, Coyote could not see the actual change, the
+sudden appearing of feet and legs and hands and arms and head, and the
+uprising of the sticks into perfect men and women, but in a few moments
+he had to stand aside, as a torrent of men, women, and children poured
+out of the doorway. Without a word, but thrilled even to the tip of
+his tail with delight, he examined men, women, youths, maidens, boys,
+girls, and found them all beautifully formed and physically perfect.
+Still they came through the door. Several times he found himself about
+to shout for joy, but managed to restrain his feelings. More came, and
+as they looked around them on the wonderful world to which they had
+come from nothingness, and expressed their astonishment (for they were
+able to speak from the first moment), Coyote became wild with joy and
+could resist the inward pressure no longer. He began to talk to the
+new people, and to laugh and dance and shout and bark and yelp, in the
+sheer exuberance of his delight. How happy he was!
+
+Then there came an ominous stillness. The movements from inside the
+house ceased; no more humans appeared at the doorway. Almost frozen
+with terror, Coyote realized what he had done. The charm had ceased.
+Those Above were angry at his disobedience to their commands.
+
+When Kathat-a-kanave awoke he was delighted to see the noble human
+beings Those Above had sent to him, but when he entered the hawa his
+delight was changed to anger. There were hundreds more sticks to
+which no life had been given. Infuriated, he turned upon Coyote and
+reproached him with bitter words for failing to observe his injunction,
+and then, with fierce anger, he kicked him and bade him begone! His
+tail between his legs, his head bowed, and with slinking demeanor,
+Coyote disappeared, and that is the reason all coyotes are now so
+cowardly, and never appear in the presence of mankind without skulking
+and fear.
+
+As soon as they had become a little used to being on the earth,
+Kathat-a-kanave called his people together and informed them that
+he must lead them to their future home. They came down Eldorado
+Canyon, and then crossed Hackataia (the Grand Canyon) and reached
+a small but picturesque canyon on the Wallapai reservation, called
+Mat-ta-wed-it-i-ta. This is their "Garden of Eden." Here a spring of
+water supplies nearly a hundred miners' inches of water, and there are
+about a hundred acres of good farming land, lying in such a position
+that it can well be irrigated from this spring. On the other side
+of the canyon is a cave about a hundred feet wide at its mouth, and
+perched fully half a thousand feet above the valley.
+
+Now Kathat-a-kanave disappears in some variants of the story, and
+Hokomata and Tochopa take his place at Mattaweditita. The latter is
+ever the hero. He gave the people seeds of corn, pumpkins, melons,
+beans, etc., and showed them how to plant and irrigate them. In the
+meantime they had been taught how to live on grass seeds, the fruit
+of the tuna (prickly pear), and mescal, and how to slay the deer,
+antelope, turkey, jack-rabbit, cottontail, and squirrel.
+
+When the crops came Tochopa counselled them not to eat any of
+the product except such as could be eaten without destroying the
+seeds,--the melons and pumpkins,--so that when planting time came they
+had an abundance. When the next harvest was ripe the crops were large,
+and after picking out the best for seeds, some were stored away in the
+cave as a reserve and the remainder eaten. As the years went on they
+increased in numbers and strength. Tochopa was ever their good friend
+and guide. He taught them how to dance and smoke and rattle when they
+became sick; he gave them _toholwa_--the sweat-house--to cure them
+of all evil; he taught the women how to make pottery, baskets, and
+blankets woven from the dressed skins of rabbits. The men he taught
+how to dress buckskin, and hunt and trap all kinds of animals good for
+food. Thus they came almost to worship him and be ever singing his
+praises. This made Hokomata angry. He went away and sulked for days at
+a time. In his solitude he evidently thought out a plan for wreaking
+his jealous fury upon Tochopa and those who were so fond of him. There
+was one family, the head of which was inclined to be quarrelsome, and
+Hokomata went and made special friends with him. He taught the children
+how to make pellets of clay, and put them on the end of sticks and then
+shoot them. Soon he showed them how to make a dart, then a bow and
+arrow, and later how to take the horn of a deer, put it in the fire
+until it was softened so that it could be moulded to a sharp point.
+This made a dangerous dagger. Finally he wrapped buckskin around a
+heavy stone, and put a handle to it, thus making a war-club; took a
+rock and made a battle-hammer of it; and still another, the edge of
+which he sharpened so that a battle-axe was provided. In the meantime
+he had been stealthily instilling into the hearts of his friends the
+feelings of hatred and jealousy that possessed him. He taught the
+children to shoot the mud pellets at the children of other families.
+He supplied the youths with slings, and bows and arrows, and soon
+stones and arrows were shot at unoffending workers. Protestations and
+quarrels ensued, the fathers and mothers of the hurt children being
+angry. Hokomata urged his friends to defend their children, and they
+took their clubs, battle-hammers and axes, and fell upon those who
+complained. Thus discord and hatred reigned, and soon the two sides
+were involved in petty war. Tochopa saw Hokomata's movements with
+horror and dread. He could not understand why he should do these
+terrible things. Yet when the people came to him with their complaints
+he felt he must sympathize with them. The trouble grew the greater
+the population became, until at last it was unbearable. Then Tochopa
+determined on stern measures. Stealthily he laid his plan before the
+heads of the families. Each was to leave the canyon, under the pretext
+of going hunting, gathering pinion nuts, grass seeds, or mescal, and go
+in different directions. Then at a certain time they were all to gather
+at a given spot, and there provide themselves with weapons. Everything
+was done as he had planned, the quarrellers--the Wha-jes--remaining
+behind with Hokomata. Then, one night, the whole band, well armed,
+returned stealthily to the canyon and fell upon the quarrellers. Many
+were slain outright, and all the remainder driven from the home they
+had cursed. Not one was allowed to remain. Thus the Wha-jes became
+a separate people. White men to-day call them Apaches, but they are
+really the Wha-jes, the descendants of the quarrelsome people the
+Wallapais drove out of Mattaweditita Canyon.
+
+Hokomata was furious. He was conquered, but led his people to settle
+not far away, and many times they returned to the canyon and endeavored
+to kill all they could. Thus warfare became common. The spear was
+invented,--a long stick with a sharpened point of flint. Sometimes
+the Wha-jes would come in large numbers, when many of the men were
+away hunting. Then all the attacked would flee to the cave before
+mentioned--which they still call Kathat-a-kanave's Nyu-wa (Cave
+House)--where they built an outer wall of fortification, and farther
+back still another. Several times the outer wall was stormed and taken,
+but never could the Wha-jes penetrate to the inner part of the cave, so
+to this day it is termed Wa-ha-vo,--the place that is impregnable.
+
+After many generations had passed, Hokomata saw it was no use keeping
+his people near the canyon; they could never capture it, and they had
+lost all desire to become again part of the original people, so he led
+them away to the southeast, beyond the San Francisco Mountains, down
+into what is now southern Arizona and New Mexico. Here they settled
+down somewhat and became the Apache race, though they are still
+Wha-jes--quarrellers.
+
+Left to themselves, the families in Mattaweditita increased rapidly,
+until soon there were too many to live in comfort. So Tochopa took
+most of them to Milkweed Canyon, and then he divided the separate
+families and allotted to each his own territory. To the Mohaves he
+gave the western region by the great river; the Paiutis he sent to the
+water springs and pockets of southern Nevada and Utah; the Navahoes
+went east and found the great desert region, where game was plentiful;
+and the Hopis, who were always afraid and timid, built houses like
+Kathat-a-kanave's fortress on the summit of high mountains or mesas.
+The Havasupais started to go with the Hopis, and they camped together
+one night in the depths of the canyon where the blue water flows to
+Hackataia--the Colorado. The following morning when they started to
+resume their journey a child began to cry. This was an omen that
+bade them remain, so that family stayed and became known as the
+Haha-vasu-pai, the people of the Blue Water. Most of the remaining
+families went into the Mountains of the Tall Pine, south of Kingman,
+and thus became known as the pai (people) of the walla (tall pines).
+Here they found plenty of food of all kinds and abundance of game. As
+they increased in numbers they spread out, some going to Milkweed,
+others to Diamond and Peach Springs Canyons, and wherever they could
+find food and water.
+
+Thus was the human race begun and the Wallapais established in their
+home.
+
+When I asked where the white race came from, old Leve-leve scratched
+his head for a moment and then declared that they were made from the
+left-over sticks in Kathat-a-kanave's house.
+
+But the Apaches, under Hokomata, would not leave the various peoples at
+peace. They warred upon them all the time. And that is why the Wallapai
+parents of a later day became accused of cruelty to their children.
+Scattered about, a few here and a few there, they were fit subjects
+for Apache attacks. A code of smoke signals, for warning, was adopted,
+but it was not always possible to prevent surprises. Sometimes the
+father of a family would go hunting and it would not be possible for
+the mother and children to go along. If she were attacked under such
+conditions, what could she do? If she tried to escape, hampered with
+her little ones, they would all be caught and she would have to submit
+to her captors and stand by and see them ruthlessly murdered. So she
+preferred to kill them herself, which she often did by strangling or
+suffocation. Then she might hope to reach the mountains and hide until
+the cover of night gave her an opportunity to escape. This explanation
+has actually been given to me as a statement of fact by some of the
+older women of the tribe.
+
+Sometimes when the Apaches would attempt a raid they would be
+checkmated, the tables turned, and they themselves captured. Then there
+were great rejoicings. A feast was invariably held, at which the scalps
+were exposed on a pole around which the dances were conducted in the
+light of immense fires.
+
+Of late years both Apaches and Wallapais have been taught to bury their
+enmity. Acting upon the suggestion of former agent Ewing, the Wallapai
+chiefs sent a messenger of peace and invitation to the Apache chiefs,
+asking them to come and visit the Wallapais during watermelon and green
+corn time, and be friends as the Great Father at Washington desires.
+Yet the Apaches, though the invitation has been several times repeated,
+have never come. They remember "the days of the years gone by,"--the
+days of murder, rapine, scalpings, and stealings of women. And they
+are afraid that poison, treachery, sudden death, torture perhaps, lurk
+behind the seeming friendliness. Revenge is sweet to an Indian, and the
+Apache cannot conceive that so great a conversion has taken place in
+the Wallapai heart as to lead him to forego his just revenge.
+
+[Illustration: SUSQUATAMI, WALLAPAI WAR CHIEF.]
+
+[Illustration: TUASULA, WALLAPAI CHIEF.]
+
+When first known to the white man they were found inhabiting the region
+they now occupy, including the Wallapai (sometimes spelled Hualapai),
+Yavapai, and Sacramento Valleys. Their chief mountain ranges were the
+Cerbab, Wallapai, Aquarius, and northern portion of Chemehuevi ranges.
+They roamed as far south as Bill Williams' Fork of the Colorado, and
+its branch, the Santa Maria. They then numbered about the same as they
+do now, between six and seven hundred.
+
+In Coues' translation of Garcés' Diary Prof. F. W. Hodge gives other
+forms of spelling the name of the Wallapais, as follows: "Hah-wál-coes,
+Haulapais, Ha-wol-la Pai, Ho-allo-pi, Hualpais, Hualapais, Hualipais,
+Hualopais, Hualpáitch, Hualpas, Hualpias, Huallapais, Hulapais,
+Hwalapai, Jagullapai (after Garcés), Jaguyapay, Jaqualapai,
+Jaguallapai, Tiquillapai, Wallapais, Wil-ha-py-ah."
+
+These and the various names given to the Wallapais show the
+difficulties explorers encounter in endeavoring correctly to spell the
+names they hear. It should never be forgotten that the Amerinds of the
+Southwest speak with quite as great a latitude in pronunciation as is
+found in the wonderfully varied dialects of the English language. To
+make all these different pronunciations conform to a standard American
+method is one part of the grand work of the Geographical Board, a much
+abused but highly necessary public body.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+THE PEOPLE OF THE BLUE WATER AND THEIR HOME
+
+
+Of no people of the Southwest, perhaps, has so much utter nonsense been
+written as of this interesting People of the Blue Water, the _pai_
+(people) of the _vasu_ (blue) _haha_ (water)--the Havasupais. As far as
+we know, Padre Garcés was the first white man to visit them in their
+Cataract Canyon home, and he speaks of his visit in his interesting
+Diary translated and annotated by the lamented Elliott Coues shortly
+before his death.
+
+Captain Sitgreaves, Lieutenant Ives, Captain Palfrey, Major J. W.
+Powell, Lieut. F. H. Cushing, and others in turn visited them, but very
+little was either known or written about them when, over a dozen years
+ago, I was conducted to their marvellously picturesque home by Mr. W.
+W. Bass, the well-known guide of the Grand Canyon.
+
+The journey on that occasion was a remarkable one for me, as, though
+I was fairly well versed in the trails of the Grand Canyon (having
+then descended four of them), I had never seen such a trail as was the
+Topocobya Trail down which we descended late in the evening. Leaving
+our wagon, after sixteen miles' drive through the Kohonino Forest
+from Bass Camp, we packed food, blankets, and cameras on horses and
+burros, and, after two miles of travel in what in Western parlance is
+called a "draw," the real head of the trail was reached. We walked in
+the closing dusk of day to the edge of the precipice and looked off
+to where our guide told us we must shortly be travelling. Far below,
+almost a thousand feet, without the sign of a trail, it seemed as if
+he must be hoaxing us. Soon, however, as we followed him, we found
+ourselves on a rocky shelf, and then began the most stupendous series
+of zigzags I had ever been on. Back and forth we wended, our trail a
+mere scratch on the rocky slope, here descending rugged steps, where a
+misstep meant sure and awful death. Higher and higher the walls rose
+around us; darker and darker grew the night; more weird and awesome the
+wind and weather carved figures sculptured on the sides and summits
+of the walls, and still down we went. At last we reached a vast
+cavernous-like place where Topocobya Spring is located. A small flow of
+water comes from the solid rock, and there we watered our horses and
+filled up our canteens prior to advancing on our seemingly never-ending
+descent. At last we reached the level, and there, lighting a fire, made
+camp and rested before penetrating farther into the deep and mystic
+recesses of the Havasupais. Early in the morning we began the farther
+descent. Mile after mile we traversed, first riding on the dry bed
+of the winter stream, then entering the narrower walls formed by the
+erosion of centuries through first one stratum of rock, then another.
+Now we were riding on a narrow shelf, on one side of which was a high
+wall, and on the other a deep, narrow ravine, in the bottom of which
+the erosive forces have cut a number of holes,--small troughs or bath
+tubs in the sandstone, where during the rainy season pools of delicious
+water may be found. In a short time we were riding up or down literal
+stairways cut in the rock, or rounding "Cape Horns," where we held our
+breath at the dreadful consequences that would ensue were horse or man
+to slip. Entering Rattlesnake Canyon our whole course was on a shelving
+slope of rock, over which even experienced horses tread gingerly. At
+last we came to the bed of the main canyon, and then for five or six
+miles we journeyed on, in the sand or the gravelly wash, for the stream
+that flows through this narrow canyon in storm times has no other law
+than its own wilful force. To-day we ride in one place, to-morrow's
+storm changes everything. After numberless twinings and twistings,
+all of which, however, gave a persistent northwesterly direction to
+our travelling, we came in sight of a score or so of large and fine
+cottonwood trees, whose height far surpassed the smaller mesquite,
+cottonwood, and other trees that line much of the canyon's bed. These
+large trees told us our journey was practically at an end, for here
+begins the outpouring of the numberless springs that make the stream
+we can already hear rushing in its pebbly bed lower down. Without any
+premonition they spring out in large and small volume at the foot of
+some of these trees, and the Havasu--the Blue Water--is made. Every few
+yards adds to the water's volume, for more springs empty their flow
+into it. The first and only real buildings are the schoolhouse and the
+homes of the farmer and teachers, and then, at once, begin the small
+farms of the Havasupais.
+
+Stand on the slope here, where a mass of talus rises from the trail
+side, so that we can survey the whole of the picturesque scene. Note
+its setting! Towering walls of regularly laminated red sandstone,
+though the layers are of differing thicknesses, wind in and out, as
+if following the meandering course of the stream, and over this the
+perfect blue of the Arizona sky. These make the most marvellously
+picturesque dwelling-place of America. Even Acoma's mesa heights and
+Walpi's precipice-surrounded walls are not more picturesque, and when
+you add the charm of the verdure nourished by the sweet waters of the
+Havasu, the picture is complete in its unique attractiveness.
+
+Not even in the Green Emerald Isle, or the county of Devonshire, or
+the vineyards of France, is richer verdure to be found than fills up
+the open space between these great walls. Willows reveal the winding
+path of the Havasu, and everywhere else are the fields of the Indians.
+Patches of corn, watermelons, squash, canteloupes, beans, sunflowers,
+chili, onions, and alfalfa, with here and there peach, mesquite, and
+cottonwood trees, abound. As a rule these patches are protected and
+set off one from another by hedges of wattled willows or fences of
+rudely placed cottonwood poles. Through the fields trails meander in
+every direction, and they are also "cut up" by irrigating ditches. Some
+of the better irrigated fields are divided into small sections--like
+the squares of a checker-board--in order that the water may be more
+systematically distributed.
+
+The peaceful _hawas_ of the Havasupais nestle here and there among
+these verdant growths. Themselves covered with willows, it is often
+hard to distinguish them from the trees, were it not that at our
+approach small groups of men, women, and children, some clad in
+flaming red, others in all the colors of the rainbow, and some in even
+less than Mark Twain's descriptive smile, stand forth and reveal the
+dwelling-places. Now and again the curling line of bluish smoke of the
+camp-fire reveals the hawa, and we gladly avail ourselves of one or the
+other of these marks of identification to make ourselves more familiar
+with the real home of the Havasupais. After investigation we find there
+are several distinct types of houses, all simple and primitive, and yet
+each different from the other.
+
+Chickapanagie's summer home is a type of the simplest character. Two
+upright poles with forks at the top, standing about six feet high, are
+placed in line with each other fifteen feet apart. A cross-beam is
+placed on these uprights. Then a row of poles, about eight to nine feet
+in length, is sloped against the cross-beam. These are covered with
+willows, and there is the completed hawa.
+
+What queer dwelling-places men have, and ever have had, and possibly
+ever will have. At the Paris Exposition of 1889 one whole street was
+devoted to a history of inhabited dwellings. At one end were the
+earliest "homes" of the paleolithic age, caves and huts, followed
+by the Lake Dwellings and the wickiups, tepees, or tents of the
+present-day Indian, the latter being the same primitive structures the
+aborigines have ever used. The other end of the street was devoted to
+the domestic architecture of our own day, and there, in a few hours,
+one could study almost every known form of home structure. But who
+could ever reproduce some of the homes these Havasupais live in? Wicker
+huts in the open, and caves in the faces of solid sandstone walls two
+thousand feet and more in height, these in turn surmounted by domes and
+obelisks and towers and cupolas that no modern architect dare attempt
+to rival.
+
+These massive walls absorb the heat of the sun in summer time and thus
+keep the canyon intensely hot both night and day. The large flow of
+water and the dense growth of willows and other verdure keep the soil
+constantly moist, so there is a humidity in the atmosphere which, in
+hot weather, makes it very oppressive.
+
+This moisture renders the canyon cold in winter, although the
+thermometer never ranges very low. Snow falls but seldom, and then
+disappears almost as soon as it lights. In 1898 there was snow that
+stayed on the ground for several hours, but this was one of the
+severest winters they have had for many years.
+
+A hundred yards or so below where the springs commence to flow Wallapai
+Canyon enters from the left. It is similar in appearance to, though
+narrower than, Havasu (Cataract) Canyon, the walls being of red
+sandstone, the strata of which are as regular as if laid by masons. A
+few hundred yards beyond the junction of the two canyons a remarkable
+piece of Indian engineering is in evidence, showing how the Indians
+ascend from a lower to an upper platform. There is a drop here in
+the stratum of some twenty-five or thirty feet, and to overcome this
+obstacle the Havasupais built a cage with logs which they filled with
+stones, and then from this stretched rude logs up and across, to which
+other logs were fastened, thus making a fairly substantial bridge from
+the lower to the upper stratum over which their horses as well as
+themselves could safely pass. The trail from this point ascends through
+tortuous canyons a distance of seven miles to the territory occupied by
+the Wallapais.
+
+Just below the entrance to Wallapai Canyon a vast mass of talus has
+fallen, and two hundred yards farther down, the Cataract Canyon trail
+goes over a portion of this talus to avoid the creek, which has here
+crossed from the other side of the canyon and has become a rapidly
+flowing stream some two feet or more in depth. Attached to this talus
+is a large mass of solid concrete made of pebbles, rocks, and sand that
+have been washed down in the creek and made cohesive by the lime from
+the water. Here the canyon narrows again and the stupendous walls seem
+very near to the willow-fringed stream and the small fields. A few
+hundred feet farther it opens out again, and as one rides on the trail
+he gets exquisite views of the gray stone walls superposed on the red
+sandstones to the northwest. These gray and creamy sandstones, with
+their numerous and delicate tints and shades, afford most delightful
+contrasts to the glaring and monotonous red of the walls beneath.
+From this point we gain our first view of the so-called Havasupai
+stone gods, named by them "Hue-gli-i-wa," the story of which is told
+elsewhere.
+
+These rocky pillars with their supporting walls seem as if they were
+once a part of a great wall that entirely spanned the canyon, the
+towers being sentinel outlooks to guard from attack both above and
+below. The portion of the wall to the right, as one descends the
+canyon, has been washed away, but the tower-crowned mass to the left
+still preserves a broad sweep into the very heart of the canyon as if
+it would bar all further progress. Following the sweep of this curve
+and passing the wall immediately underneath the outermost of the two
+towers, we view from the trail which ascends a mass of talus at this
+point another widened-out part of the canyon, which seems entirely
+covered with willows, here and there overshadowed by a few straggling
+cottonwoods. This is where the ceremonial dances of the Havasupais
+take place.
+
+On the summit of the wall on the other side of the canyon from the
+Hue-gli-i-wa are two stone objects, one named Hue-a-pa-a, and the one
+farther down the canyon, Hue-pu-keh-i. These are great objects of
+reverence, for they represent the ancestors of the Havasupai race.
+Hue-a-pa-a--the man--has a child upon his back and two more by his
+side, and he is calling to his wife--Hue-pu-keh-i--to hurry along, as
+the baby is hungry and needs his dinner. The full breasts of the stone
+woman show that she is a nursing mother.
+
+Slightly below these stone figures, and on the right-hand side of the
+canyon, is the old fort, where in the days of fighting the Havasupais
+were wont to retire when attacked. The fort is impregnable on three
+sides, being precipitous, and on the fourth is accessible only up a
+narrow trail, which is guarded by piles of rocks which are ready to be
+tumbled, even by a woman, upon the heads of foes who attempt to ascend.
+The fortifications and stones for defence still remain, but it is many
+years since they were used for their original purposes.
+
+One's mind becomes very active as he looks upon this tribe of Indians
+and thinks of their traditions, history, and life. So far, their almost
+entirely isolated condition has been their preservation, although, sad
+to say, much of their earlier contact with our civilization was not of
+the best character.
+
+Even in this land of our boasted Christianity it is true that the
+strong prey upon the weak. The domination of physical force is giving
+way to the domination of mental force, but which is the greater evil?
+Why should the man born with a mental advantage over his fellows
+exercise that advantage any more than the man born with a physical
+advantage? We have not quite ceased to worship the Sullivans,
+the Corbetts, and the Fitzsimmonses, and, where we have, we have
+transferred our worship to the intellectually strong, many of whom are
+no more worthy our homage than the prize fighters. So now it is the
+intellectually strong who prey upon the intellectually weak, and, as in
+the physical conflict, it is inevitable that the weak "go to the wall."
+In simple cunning the Havasupai Indian may be our superior, but in deep
+craft he is "out of the field." His bow and arrow tipped with obsidian
+or flint pitted against our repeating rifle; his rolling of heavy rocks
+opposed to our Gatling guns; his mule and burro against our iron horse;
+and his pine torch against our electric light,--all demonstrate him to
+be in his intellectual minority, or at an intellectual disadvantage. He
+makes a fine figure in our romances, but I sadly fear that the knell of
+his doom has sounded, and that a few generations hence he will be no
+more.
+
+[Illustration: HAVASUPAI FORTRESS AND HUE-GLI-I-WA, OR ROCK FIGURES.]
+
+Wallapai and Havasu Canyons, far more than the Grand Canyon, meet
+the popular idea as to what a canyon is. Their walls are narrow and
+precipitous, and one staying in their depths must be content with a
+late sunrise and an early sunset. Just above the rude bridge before
+described are several natural reservoirs of water. Here the canyon is
+not more than from one hundred and fifty to two hundred and fifty feet
+wide. This close proximity of the walls, which fairly overshadow one,
+compels one to feel his insignificance far more than when he stands in
+the wider and more comprehensive vastness of the Grand Canyon.
+
+From leading Havasupais I learn that many years ago the various tribes
+of this region were at war one with another, until finally a treaty
+of peace was entered into and boundaries defined. The Paiutis were
+to remain in Nevada and Utah and not cross the Colorado River, the
+Wallapais had their region to the west of Havasu Canyon, the Mohaves,
+Hopis, Pimas, Apaches, Navahoes, Chimehuevis, and the rest their
+prescribed limits, over which they were not to go without permission
+from the chiefs into whose territory they wished to pass. And,
+generally speaking, this treaty has been observed.
+
+Of the exquisitely beautiful waterfalls that give the commonly accepted
+name to Havasu Canyon, viz., Cataract Canyon, I have not space here to
+treat. I have already somewhat fully described them in my book on the
+Grand Canyon.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+THE HAVASUPAIS AND THEIR LEGENDS
+
+
+In almost every case one finds a variety of differing legends related
+by the Indians of any tribe upon the same subject. As the Wallapais
+and Havasupais are cousins, one would naturally expect their legends
+to have some things in common. How much this is so will be seen by a
+comparison of the following story with that of the Wallapai Origin
+Legend.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+"The two gods of the universe," said O-dig-i-ni-ni´-a, the relator of
+the mythic law of the Havasupais, "are Tochopa and Hokomata. Tochopa
+he heap good. Hokomata heap han-a-to-op´-o-gi--heap bad all same white
+man's devil. Him Hokomata make big row with Tochopa, and he say he
+drown the world.
+
+"Tochopa was full of sadness at the news. He had one daughter whom he
+devotedly loved, and from her he had hoped would descend the whole
+human race for whom the world had been made. If Hokomata persisted in
+his wicked determination she must be saved at all hazard. So, working
+day and night, he speedily prepared the trunk of a pinion tree by
+hollowing it out from one end. In this hollow tree he placed food and
+other necessaries, and also made a lookout window. Then he brought
+his daughter, and telling her she must go into this tree and there be
+sealed up, he took a sad farewell of her, closed up the end of the
+tree, and then sat down to await the destruction of the world. It was
+not long before the floods began to descend. Not rain, but cataracts,
+rivers, deluges came, making more noise than a thousand Hack-a-tai-as
+(Colorado River) and covering all the earth with water. The pinion
+log floated, and in safety lay Pu-keh-eh, while the waters surged
+higher and higher and covered the tops of Hue-han-a-patch-a (the San
+Franciscos), Hue-ga-wōōl-a (Williams Mountain), and all the other
+mountains of the world.
+
+"But the waters of heaven could not always be pouring down, and soon
+after they ceased, the flood upon the earth found a way to rush
+into the sea. And as it dashed down it cut through the rocks of the
+plateaus and made the deep Chic-a-mi-mi (canyon) of the Colorado River
+(Hack-a-tai-a). Soon all the water was gone.
+
+"Then Pu-keh-eh found her log no longer floating, and she peeped out
+of the window Tochopa had placed in her boat, and, though it was misty
+and almost dark, she could see in the dim distance the great mountains
+of the San Francisco range. And near by was the canyon of the Little
+Colorado, and to the north was Hack-a-tai-a, and to the west was the
+canyon of the Havasu.
+
+"The flood had lasted so long that she had grown to be a woman, and,
+seeing the water gone, she came out and began to make pottery and
+baskets as her father long ago had taught her. But she was a woman. And
+what is a woman without a child in her arms or nursing at her breasts?
+How she longed to be a mother! But where was a father for her child?
+Alas! there was no man in the whole universe!
+
+[Illustration: CHICKAPANAGIE'S WIFE, A HAVASUPAI, PARCHING CORN IN
+BASKET.]
+
+[Illustration: A WALLAPAI WOMAN POUNDING ACORNS.]
+
+"Day after day longings for maternity filled her heart, until,
+one morning,--glorious happy morning for Pu-keh-eh and the Havasu
+race,--the darkness began to disappear, and in the far-away east
+soft and new brightness appeared. It was the triumphant Sun coming
+to conquer the long night and bring light into the world. Nearer and
+nearer he came, and at last, as he peeped over the far-away mesa
+summits, Pu-keh-eh arose and thanked Tochopa, for here, at last, was a
+father for her child. She conceived, and in the fulness of time bore a
+son, whom she delighted in and called In-ya´-a--the son of the Sun.
+
+"But as the days rolled on she again felt the longings for maternity.
+By this time she had wandered far to the west and had entered the
+beautiful canyon of the Havasu, where deep down between the rocks
+were several grand and glorious waterfalls, and one of these,
+Wa-ha-hath-peek-ha-ha, she determined should be the father of her
+second child.
+
+"When it was born it was a girl, and to this day all the girls of the
+Havasupai are 'daughters of the water.'
+
+"As these two children grew up they married, and thus became the
+progenitors of the human race. First the Havasupais were born, then the
+Apaches, then the Wallapais, then the Hopis, then the Paiutis, then the
+Navahoes.
+
+"And Tochopa told them all where they should live. The Havasupais and
+the Apaches were to dwell in Havasu Canyon, the former on one side of
+the Havasu (blue water), and the latter on the other side, and occupy
+the territory as far east as the Little Colorado and south to the San
+Francisco Mountains. The Wallapais were to roam in the country west of
+Havasu Canyon, and the Hopis and Navahoes east of the Little Colorado,
+and the Paiutis north of the big Colorado.
+
+"And there in Havasu Canyon, above their dancing-place, he carved on
+the summit of the walls figures of Pu-keh-eh and A-pa-a to remind them
+from whom they were descended. Here for a long time Havasupais and
+Apaches lived together in peace, but one day an Apache man saw a most
+beautiful Havasu woman, and he fell in love with her, and he went to
+his home and prayed and longed and ate his heart out for this woman who
+was the wife of another. He called upon Hokomata, the bad god, to help
+him, and Hokomata, always glad to foment trouble, told him to pay no
+attention to the restrictions placed upon him by Tochopa, but to cross
+the Havasu, kill the woman's husband, and steal her for his own wife.
+
+"The Apache heeded this evil counsel and did so.
+
+"When the Havasupais discovered the wrong that had been done them,
+and the great disgrace this Apache had brought upon the tribe, they
+counselled together, and determined to drive out the Apaches from their
+canyon home. No longer should they be brothers. They bade the Apaches
+be gone, and when they refused, fell upon them and drove them out. Up
+the rocks near Hue-gli-i-wa the Apaches climbed, and to this day the
+marks of their footsteps may be seen. They were driven far away to the
+south and commanded never to come north of the San Francisco Mountains.
+Hence, though originally they were brothers, there has ever since been
+war between the people of the Havasu and the Apaches.
+
+"Then, to remind them of the sure punishment that comes to evil-doers,
+Tochopa carved the great stone figures of the Apache man and the
+Havasupai squaw so that they could be seen from above and below,
+and there to this day the Hue-gli-i-wa remain, as a warning against
+unlawful love and its dire consequences."
+
+Here is another story told by a shaman of the Havasupais of the origin
+of the race. It is interesting and instructive to note the points of
+similarity and difference.
+
+"In the days of long ago a man and a woman (Hokomata and Pukeheh
+Panowa) lived here on the earth. By and by a son was born to them, whom
+they named Tochopa. As he grew up to manhood Pukeheh Panowa fell in
+love with him and wished to marry him, but he instinctively shrank from
+such incestuous intercourse. The woman grew angry as he repelled her,
+and she made a number of frogs which brought large volumes of water.
+Soon all the country began to be flooded with water, and Hokomata found
+out what was the matter. He then took Tochopa and a girl and placed
+them in the trunk of a pinion tree, sealed it up, and sent them afloat
+on the waters. He stored the tree with corn, peaches, pumpkins, and
+other food, so they would not be hungry, and for many long days the
+tree floated hither and thither on the face of the waters. Soon the
+waters began to subside, and the tree grounded near to where the Little
+Colorado now is. When Tochopa found the tree was no longer floating he
+knocked on the side, and Hokomata heard him and came and let him out.
+As he stepped on the ground he saw Huehanapatcha (the San Francisco
+Mountains), Huegadawiza (Red Butte), Huegawōōla (Williams Mountain),
+and he said: 'I know these mountains. This is not far from my country.'
+And the water ran down the Hack-a-tha-eh-la (the salty stream, or
+the Little Colorado) and made Hack-a-tai-a (the Grand Canyon of the
+Colorado). Here he and his wife lived until she gave birth to the son
+and daughter as before related."
+
+The way the Wallapai became a separate people is thus related by the
+Havasupais:
+
+"A long time ago the animals were all the same as Indians, and the
+Indians as the animals. The Coyote he lived here in Havasu Canyon. One
+time he go away for a long time and he catch 'em a good squaw, and by
+and bye he have a little boy.
+
+"The little boy grew up to be a man, and he went up on top (out of
+the canyon, upon the higher plateaus), and there he found two squaw.
+It heap cold on top, and he get two squaw to keep him warm when he go
+to sleep. Then he came back to Havasu, and when his papa (the Coyote)
+saw his two squaws he said: 'I take this one. One squaw enough for
+you.' But the boy was angry and said one squaw was not enough. 'When I
+lie down to sleep I heap cold. Squaw she heap warm. Two squaw keep me
+warm.' The Coyote told his son not to talk; he must be content with one
+squaw and go to sleep. And the squaw was proud that the Coyote had made
+her his wife, and she began to taunt the boy, and when he replied she
+asked the Coyote to tell his boy not to talk. And the Coyote was mad
+and spoke angrily to his boy.
+
+"When he awoke in the morning his son was gone. And ten sleeps passed
+by and still he did not come back, so the Coyote tracked him up
+Wallapai Canyon, and went a long, long way. He reached the hilltop and
+still he did not find his son. At last, a long, long way off he saw
+him, and he changed him into a mountain sheep. Then a lot more mountain
+sheep came and ran with the Coyote's son, and the Coyote could not tell
+which of the band was his boy. He looked and looked, but it was all in
+vain. He tried to change his boy back again, so that he would no longer
+be a mountain sheep, but, as he could not tell which was his boy, his
+efforts were in vain, and he had to go back to Havasu alone.
+
+"For a long time the boy remained as a mountain sheep, until the horns
+had grown large upon his head. Then he changed himself back to a man,
+and he found his squaw there, waiting for him, and that is why, to this
+day, the Wallapai is to the Havasupai the A-mu-u or mountain sheep."
+
+ * * * * *
+
+The origin of the Hopis is thus related by the Havasupais:
+
+"Long time ago two men were born near Mooney Falls. They were twins,
+yet one was big man, and the other a little big. They came up into this
+part of the canyon (where the Havasupais now live). It was no good in
+those days. There was no water and it was 'heap hot.' The little big
+man he say: 'I no like 'em stay here. Let us go hunt 'em good place
+to live where we catch plenty water, plenty corn.' So they left the
+canyon and climbed out where the Hopi trail now is. Here they stayed
+in the forest some time, hunting and making buckskin. After they had
+got a large bundle of buckskins dressed, they put them on their backs
+and began to walk on to seek the country of lots of water, where plenty
+of corn would grow. But it was hot weather and the load was heavy, and
+they soon grew so very tired that the smaller brother began to cry.
+As they walked on he cried more and more, until when they came to the
+hilltop looking down to the Little Colorado River, he said: 'I cannot
+go any farther. I am going to lie down here and go to sleep.' So they
+both went to sleep, and when they woke up the big brother said: 'Where
+you go? You no walk long way. You heap tired.'
+
+"And the little brother answered: 'I no like go farther. I go back
+Havasu. I catch 'em water there.'
+
+"'All right!' replied the big brother, 'I no like Havasu. I go hunt
+water and plant corn and watermelons and sunflowers. You go back to
+Havasu.'
+
+"And he gave him a little bit of corn, and that explains why the
+Havasupais can grow only a small amount of corn in their canyon, though
+it is exceedingly sweet and delicious.
+
+"But the big brother went on and found the places now occupied by the
+Hopi, and he settled there. And as he had taken lots of corn with him
+and he planted it, that explains" (to the Havasupai mind) "why the Hopi
+has so much corn.
+
+"And the smaller brother found water when he got back to Havasu, and
+he planted his corn, and cared for it, and went and hunted and caught
+the deer and made buckskin. Then he found a squaw who made baskets, and
+helped him make mescal, and they stopped there all the time.
+
+"The Hopi brother learned to make blankets, but no buckskin, so when he
+wants buckskin he has to come to his smaller brother in Havasu Canyon."
+
+ * * * * *
+
+In the early days the Havasupais were undoubtedly cliff-dwellers,
+for in a score or more places in their canyons are houses in the
+cliffs--some of them inaccessible--which their traditions say were once
+occupied by certain families, the names of which are still remembered.
+All throughout the Grand Canyon region, too, from the Little Colorado
+River to Havasu Canyon, their cliff-dwellings, and smaller cliff
+"corn-houses" and mescal pits, are to be found. Indeed, the Havasupais
+built all the trails that are now being claimed as the work of white
+men into the heart of the Grand Canyon. The Tanner-French trail, the
+Red Canyon trail, the old Hance trail, the Grand View, Bright Angel,
+and Mystic Spring trails, are all old Indian trails. Not only are the
+cliff-dwellings and mescal pits proof of this, but the Havasupais can
+tell the families to whom they originally belonged and to whom the
+rights in them have descended. These rights they rigidly adhere to. It
+is the white man who knows no law as far as the Indian is concerned,
+and little by little the aborigine has lost springs, water-pockets, and
+trails, and is regarded and treated as an unwelcome visitor.
+
+[Illustration: HAVASUPAI MOTHER AND CHILD.]
+
+[Illustration: A FAMILY GROUP OF HAVASUPAIS.]
+
+By this it must not be inferred that the Indians built the trails as
+white men build. In the main their trails were rude paths such as the
+mountain sheep might make, but in every case they had one of these rude
+pathways down into the canyon somewhere near to where the modern trails
+are now located. At the Bright Angel this path was changed when white
+engineers took hold of it, and at Mystic Spring Mr. Bass had built an
+entirely new trail, down a different slope, long before he discovered
+the Indian trail. Both unite near two great natural rock-cisterns, and
+then deviate below, the Indian trail zigzagging to the left, while Mr.
+Bass engineered a new trail of easy grade on the talus to the right.
+
+Some of the Havasupais are returning to the cliff-dwelling style of
+homes. My friend Wa-lu-tha-ma is forsaking his wood and brush "hawas,"
+and constructing a house under the cliffs, where, as he quaintly puts
+it, he can "keep dry when much rain comes."
+
+It seems to me a reasonable supposition that it was from the frequency
+of the occurrence of these corn-houses in the walls of Havasu
+(Cataract) Canyon, with the occasional appearance of a few of the
+larger houses used as dwellings by the Havasupais, that the absurd and
+romantic yarns had their origin that fifteen, or less, years ago, were
+current in Arizona and elsewhere about this interesting people. The
+cowboys, miners, prospectors, and others, who accidentally stumbled
+upon the upper entrance to the Havasu Canyon, and wandered down its
+meandering course for ten or forty miles, even to the village of
+the simple Havasupais, returned to civilization and propagated and
+circulated stories that out-Munchausened Munchausen. They said these
+people were cliff-dwellers, living at the present day in the walls of
+the canyon; they were of powerful physical presence, and possessed
+great endurance. Their fields and gardens were wonderful, and their
+peach orchards surpassed those of most civilized cultivation, and they
+held in slavery a lesser people, dwarfs or pigmies, doubtless, who
+were cliff-dwellers like themselves, and whom they compelled by great
+cruelty to perform the most arduous labors.
+
+Others, having heard these stories, but whose spirit of adventure
+took them no farther than the "rim" of the canyon, claimed to have
+looked into the village and side canyons, and there seen the truth of
+these stories demonstrated. They had seen the pigmies and the gigantic
+Havasupais, had heard the harsh yells of the latter at the former, and
+had seen the frantic endeavors of the little people to obey the stern
+behests of their masters.
+
+All these yarns are explained by the fact that the distance of view
+dimmed the vision; the pigmies were boys driving the burros or horses,
+yelling and shouting as Havasupai boys delight to do, the voices
+magnified fifty-fold by the echoing walls of the canyon, while the
+parents moved around attending to their own business, or looked on and
+occasionally helped by a shout of encouragement or suggestion.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+THE SOCIAL AND DOMESTIC LIFE OF THE HAVASUPAIS
+
+
+From the cradle to the grave the life of a Havasupai is practically an
+out-of-door life. Their hawas--even the best of them--are partially
+exposed and open, and in the summer hawas there is no pretence at what
+among civilized peoples is essential privacy.
+
+The games of the Havasupai children seem very few. I have seen only
+three. Of the first importance is shinny, or, as they call it,
+_tha-se-vi'-ga_. The goals are _go-ji-ga'_, the ball, _ta-ma-na'-da_,
+and the playing stick _ta-so-vig'-a_. The boys enter into this with the
+zest one would expect of such a time-honored game, yet, such is their
+general indifference to prolonged effort, they do not play it very
+often.
+
+An easier game, but generally left to the girls, is,
+_hui-ta-qui'-chi-ka to-ho'-bi-ga_, which I have fully described in my
+book on the Grand Canyon.
+
+The third game is stolen bodily from the Navahoes, except the name,
+which with the Havasupais is _Tōd-wi-ga_. It is the Nan-zosh, and is
+elsewhere fully described in these pages.
+
+Such a paucity of games is indicative of low mental power, lack of
+imagination and invention, and results in, or perhaps _from_ a slow,
+heavy mental temperament. There is no comparison between the children
+of the same ages of the Havasupais and the Navahoes or Hopis. And yet,
+when they enter school, some of the Havasupais learn with a rapidity
+equal to that of these other children.
+
+It seems strange to find a people whose children have no equivalent for
+dolls; nothing specifically to care for. They are capricious in their
+treatment of their domestic animals, cats and dogs, sometimes petting
+them to excess, and then lifting the yelping or squalling creatures
+by the legs, twisting these members over their backs, or otherwise
+torturing them.
+
+The boys and the girls, as well as the men and women, are expert horse
+riders. Every family has its horses, and the children ride from their
+earliest years. Even as I write I catch glimpses now and then of a
+red-shawled girl on horseback and hear the hard strike of the horse's
+hoofs as he dashes along at break-neck speed along the trail near the
+hawa of my host. All ride astride, and are as fearless in ascending and
+descending the steep trails that give access and egress to their canyon
+home as the wildest and most expert of the Rough Riders.
+
+One of their great sports and gala times is when visiting
+Indians--Navahoes, Hopis, or Wallapais--come with fleet horses and
+races are arranged for. While they have no "Derby Day," they have
+days on which half the personal property of the village is pledged
+on the success of certain horses. They are inveterate gamblers; and
+blankets, buckskins, saddles, bridles, Navaho jewelry, horses, burros,
+and everything "gambleable" are risked on the outcome. And what an
+exciting scene an Indian horserace is, and how picturesque! There is
+not so much difference after all in human nature, when one penetrates
+below the surface. The reserved Englishman, the excitable Italian,
+the vivacious Frenchman, and the so-called stupid and stolid native
+aboriginal American exhibit exactly the same traits of character under
+the excitement of a horserace. But in Havasu Canyon the conditions are
+quite different from Ascot, Doncaster, or Newmarket. Here are bucks
+dressed in the breech-clout and excitement, and women gesticulating
+and waving their si-dram´-as (our large flaming red or other "loud"
+colored bandannas, fastened over the shoulders and across the breast).
+Some suppress their excitement, others jabber like monkeys, and as the
+horses come to the starting-point there is just as much talking and din
+as after the start is made. One distinct feature is that many horses
+are raced without riders. They seem to understand, and when the signal
+to "let go" is given they dart off at full speed, just as if riders
+were on their backs urging them forward. Compared with our finely bred,
+beautifully chiselled horses, such as one sees, or used to see, in
+Lucky Baldwin's or the late Senator Stanford's stables, what ragged,
+scrawny, wretched creatures these are; and yet when they run how they
+surprise you, how those ugly limbs seem to limber up, and those sleepy
+eyes gain fire!
+
+Gambling at these races is carried to an extraordinary extent. Men,
+women, and children alike gamble all they possess, or even hope to
+possess. This gambling spirit has grown wonderfully in the past few
+years, for, during the Kohot Navaho's lifetime he constantly used his
+powerful influence to discourage it.
+
+Gambling, unfortunately, is not confined merely to horse-racing. All
+the afternoon, as I have sat at my work, a group of eight women, some
+young, some middle-aged, and one old, have gambled without cessation
+for five solid hours. Two young mothers had their babies--surely not
+more than two to three months old--and the youngest of the women was
+one of these mothers, and she could not have been more than eighteen
+years of age. Girls gamble at _Hui-ta-qui-chi-ka_ for safety-pins,
+and boys for knives and the like, so that now it is a vice which has
+affected every individual of the tribe.
+
+The Havasupai children are expert ball tossers. With three or four
+small melons they rival the conjurers and jugglers of our vaudeville
+shows in feats of dexterity, keeping three or more balls in the air at
+the same time.
+
+Boys and girls alike run around in the fiercest rain, their feet and
+legs wet and the few clothes they have on absolutely soaked. The idea
+of changing them has never seemed to enter their primitive minds, and
+without care, without a fire, unless he chooses to build one, the
+youngster gets along as best he may. It is a case of the weaker going
+to the wall, for here only the strong can survive.
+
+There is very little attempt on the part of their parents to control
+them. They are generally allowed to do as they choose. I have often
+seen a little girl take a cigarette from between her father's lips,
+give it a few puffs, and return it, he all the while either indifferent
+to or unconscious of the act.
+
+The close proximity of Havasu Creek and its large ponds or reservoirs,
+made by the irrigation dams, naturally suggests that they are swimmers.
+Observation confirms this. From earliest childhood they are expert
+swimmers, boys and girls alike learning the art often before they can
+walk. I have seen mere babies placed in the creek and ditches by their
+parents and older brothers, and one can scarcely say they are taught
+to paddle, for it seems to come instinctively. There is not a child in
+the village who cannot swim and dive expertly, and there is no greater
+fun than to expend a dozen nickels by throwing them into one of the
+reservoirs and having the children dive for them. Sometimes they can
+be induced to bring the coins up in their teeth, even picking them in
+that manner from the sandy bed of the reservoir. They are as expert
+swimmers as the children of the South Seas. No Kanaka going out to meet
+an incoming steamer could ride the billows more daringly than the boys
+and girls of the Havasu swim in the rapid currents of their little
+stream. I have been with them to-day for a couple of hours. The boys
+dived into deep water and rose and fell like loons. I amused myself
+by throwing a stone into ten or more feet of water, and four or five
+of the boys would dive for it and get it almost as quickly as I could
+throw it. It was no sooner in than it was out again. One of the little
+girls, a sister of one of the boys, stood watching the sport. She
+became so interested that, suddenly, without removing her calico dress,
+she jumped into the deep place and enjoyed the fun with the rest.
+
+Then, a Havasupai man, riding a burro, brought the animal down into
+the stream where it was shallow and had a gravelly bed. For an hour he
+and the boys amused themselves by swimming back and forth through the
+deep pool, and every now and again one or another would jump on the
+creature's back and, hanging on, overbalance him, or make him turn a
+somersault. The burro bore it all good-naturedly and seemed to object
+very little to the fun: the only time he showed decided inappreciation
+was when the Indians got him down into deep water and forced his head
+under for too long a time.
+
+A little later on a horse was brought, who entered into the sport as
+if he were used to it. He swam back and forth and took to the water as
+willingly as a child takes candy. The boys hung on to his mane, got on
+his back, his neck, or hung on to his tail, and, to all seeming, it was
+all the same to him.
+
+Though they are so fond of the water, the Havasupais cannot be called
+in some respects a cleanly people. Far from it. Though they take the
+sweat bath almost as a religious rite[7] and their skin is thus kept
+clean, there is another kind of cleanliness in which they are very
+remiss. It would be unreasonable to expect that people living in the
+exposed wicker huts of the Havasupais could approach anywhere near the
+ordinary white man's standard of cleanliness. But certainly they might
+have a higher standard than they do. Lice swarm in the heads of the
+children and most of the women. On the other hand, all the younger men
+are particular to be cleanly in this regard, and dress their hair with
+skill and neatness. Bed-bugs abound in Havasu Canyon as in no other
+place on earth. They swarm everywhere, and are absolutely found in
+clusters in the sand, under the old bark of decayed trees, and in every
+conceivable and inconceivable lodging-place. The warm sand and the
+seductive moisture that obtains during the major part of the year must
+be especially conducive to their breeding, for they are ubiquitous.
+Yet, strange to say, I have never known of an instance where a bed-bug
+has been brought out of the canyon by a visitor. Though I have been
+with the Havasupais scores of times I never detected one of these
+vermin either in my clothing or bedding. The breed seems to be peculiar
+to the warm, moist air of the canyon and to be unable to live away from
+it, for which we give hearty thanks.
+
+[7] See "In and Around the Grand Canyon."
+
+Now and again scorpions may be found, and, after a rain, I have seen
+a score of hundred-legged worms (perfectly harmless) rolled up on the
+trail between the village and Bridal Veil Falls.
+
+Rattlesnakes are not common anywhere in those portions of the canyon
+much visited by the Havasupais, but now and then one may be found on
+the trails or basking in the sun on the rocks near by. Elsewhere in
+this canyon and its many greater or lesser tributaries they are common,
+and the Indians can find any quantity if they are sent for them. In all
+my years of wandering to and fro, though, I have not seen a half-dozen
+rattlesnakes in Havasu Canyon.
+
+Other pests are mosquitoes, gnats, and a small black fly which, in
+certain seasons, persistently lodges in the eye, causing considerable
+annoyance, and sometimes distress and pain. There are not many
+mosquitoes, though at times they are troublesome enough to satisfy one
+for their scarcity.
+
+Many of the women are expert basket makers, and in my book on Indian
+Basketry I have fully explained their methods of work and the charming
+nature of their designs. The Havasu Canyon is a basket maker's
+paradise, for the stream is lined for miles with willows suitable for
+this work.
+
+The process of making strands or splints of the willows is a very
+simple and primitive one. Here as I sit writing (Sept. 14, 1901),
+Chickapanagie's squaw has a lot of willow shoots before her. Taking
+hold of one end of the splint in her teeth, she pulls away the cuticle
+with her fingers. These alone are her tools, and it is astonishing the
+rapidity and regularity with which the process is accomplished.
+
+As soon as a girl can frame her fingers to the work of basket making
+she is required to begin. It is very interesting to watch the small
+children in their endeavors to make the rougher baskets, and then, as
+they grow in skill, try the finer work. Pul-a-gas´-a-a is not more than
+eight years of age, and yet a basket--kü-ü--she brought to me was one
+of her own make, and it now occupies a place in my collection. The work
+is irregular and crude, but shows skill, and if the child has patience
+to stick to it, in time she will become one of the most accomplished
+basket makers of the tribe.
+
+As soon as possible after attaining puberty the Havasupai girls marry,
+generally between the ages of thirteen and fourteen. The parents
+themselves urge these early marriages. Whether they fear the loss of
+virtue in their daughters from evil white men, or the degenerate young
+men of their own tribe, I do not know, but several parents have told
+me that the sooner their girls marry, after they are marriageable, the
+better pleased they are.
+
+Marriage is generally arranged by purchase. When a young man sets
+his affections upon any particular girl, he contrives to show his
+preference for her, and, as soon as he finds that his attentions are
+agreeable, he visits his fair one's father or nearest male relative,
+and without parley begins to bargain for her as he would for a horse
+or any other commodity. The standard price for a wife is ten to twenty
+dollars, and where a trade cannot be made with a pony or blanket, the
+money itself is offered. The bargaining completed, there are no further
+preliminaries or ceremony, except that, three weeks or so before the
+wedding, the bridegroom takes up his residence in the hawa of the
+bride's parents. He is treated as one of the family, and at night
+rolls himself up in his blanket and sleeps alongside his prospective
+kinsfolk on the floor of the domicile. At the end of three weeks, if
+the contracting young folks are satisfied that their dispositions are
+harmonious, and if the marriage settlement is satisfactory, the wedding
+takes place. The groom takes his bride, the old folk take the medium
+of purchase, and the company laughs and banters the young husband and
+wife. The man takes the woman to his hawa, and the announcement of
+their marriage is made by the fact that they are living together and
+have assumed marital relationship.
+
+Sometimes an obdurate father or mother will refuse to sell a daughter,
+and thus expresses disapprobation of the suggested match. Occasionally,
+as among more civilized people, the young couple mournfully, but
+dutifully, acquiesce in the decision of the older people, but, more
+often--even, also, as white young people do--they rebel, and take the
+decision into their own hands by eloping and living together. This ends
+the matter. The ethics of the tribe are such that cohabitation once
+entered upon, the parents have no authority to declare the marriage
+void. And, as a further penalty for his obdurate obstinacy, the father
+loses the ten dollars or its equivalent he might have had by being
+kind and complaisant to the desires of the young couple.
+
+The Havasupais are polygamists, and believe in having as many wives as
+they can buy and support. At the time of his death Kohot Navaho had
+three wives living with him, and I personally know of two others that
+he had discarded on account of old age. When Hotouta, his oldest son,
+was living, his mother was a thrust-out member of Navaho's household.
+She was almost blind and decrepit, and Navaho with a wave of his hand
+and ten words had dismissed her from his bed and board. Hotouta had a
+tender heart and used to speak very bitterly about the injustice of
+this custom which allowed an old and helpless wife thus mercilessly to
+be discarded.
+
+Shortly before Navaho's death his oldest wife evidently "ruled the
+roost," and it certainly must have been by other means than her
+physical beauty. And yet she was vain of her good looks, for, when I
+made her husband's photograph, she became my strong ally in persuading
+him to sit before the camera, on condition that I would make a
+"sun-picture" of her own beautiful physiognomy and enchanting _tout
+ensemble_. When I made the photograph, she secured her petticoats
+between her legs in such a manner as to make them appear like rude
+trousers, and when I commented upon the unfeminine appearance and asked
+her to spread out her skirts in orthodox style, she boxed my ears with
+a manner at once decisive, haughty, and jocular, and bade me proceed as
+she was or not at all. The second wife was a meek kind of a creature,
+who seemed to be entirely under the dominion of wife number one; but
+the youngest wife, a buxom woman of twenty-three or four summers,
+evidently knew how to hold her own, for she once or twice refused to
+obey wife number one, though she readily obeyed the same request when
+given by Navaho personally. This woman is now married to my old host,
+Waluthama.
+
+Marriage with a white man is unknown among the Havasupais, and unlawful
+cohabitation with one is punishable by death.
+
+The question of marrying is becoming a more serious one with the
+Havasupais each year. While occasionally a man will marry a Wallapai
+squaw, there is a strong sentiment against marriage outside of the
+tribe. Yet the number of the tribe is so small, and intermarriage has
+so long been carried on between them, that it is no uncommon thing for
+a young man or woman to be debarred from choice in marriage. At the
+present time Gōō-fwho's son can marry but one girl in the whole
+tribe without violating their own laws of consanguinity, about which no
+people are more particular.
+
+The present Head Chief--Kohot--of the tribe is Man-a-ka-cha, a heavily
+built man, who is popular with the younger element. But he suffers much
+in comparison with the former Kohot, Navaho, who died in 1898.
+
+Kohot Navaho's was a strong face, marked and furrowed with bearing the
+cares of his little nation. A firm chin, powerful nose, gentle mouth,
+courageous forehead, eyes which were once fiery as well as piercing,
+but of late years had little of their primitive fire,--these gave a
+key to his character, in which firmness, courage, bravery, and gentle
+tenderness were commingled. His whole demeanor was of dignity and
+pride. No European sovereign in the days of despotic power could have
+worn the "air" of a monarch more regally than Navaho. But it was real
+with him. His kingship was within himself as well as in the affection
+of his people.
+
+[Illustration: WALUTHANCA'S DAUGHTER, WITH ESUWA, GOING FOR WATER.]
+
+[Illustration: LANOMAN'S WIFE. A HAVASUPAI.]
+
+As might be expected with their powerful physical development, the men
+are great wrestlers, and often may be seen indulging in friendly, but
+none the less hard and exhausting bouts, where Havasupai methods of
+cross-buttocking and other "throws" are tested to the utmost. One of
+the former teachers was an expert wrestler,--learned doubtless among
+the Sioux, with whom he used to live as a United States teacher,--and
+one secret of the influence he had over the Havasupais was his ability
+to "down" them in a wrestling match. Time and again he had given their
+best men great "falls," and the more he threw, the more they respected
+and obeyed him.
+
+As runners and trailers they almost equal the Mohaves, Apaches, and
+Hopis, though, on the desert, their endurance is not so great as that
+of these two desert tribes. As canyon climbers, however, they surpass
+either of them. The climbing muscles, by life-long and constant
+practice, are remarkably developed, and they run up and down the long,
+wearisome, steep trails of canyons in a manner to excite the envy of
+a college athlete, and the astonishment of one who has, but a short
+time before, laboriously and tediously essayed a brief trip in which
+ascending or descending a steep trail was an essential feature.
+
+As riders they are skilful and full of endurance, but they are neither
+as graceful nor as daring as the Navahoes.
+
+Men and women both dress the buckskins for which the Havasupai is so
+famous. Amole root is macerated and beaten up and down in a bowl of
+water until a good lather and suds are produced. Then the operator
+takes a mouthful of the liquid and squirts it over the skin, which he
+manipulates and softens, rubs, scrubs, and pulls with his fingers and
+feet, moistening it again and again as occasion requires. Wild catskins
+are treated in the same way.
+
+From this excellent buckskin the men make moccasins for themselves and
+their women. The first time I saw Kohot Navaho he was sitting naked,
+upon a blanket outside his hawa, his three wives near by, they cutting
+and preparing peaches for drying, he busily engaged making a pair of
+moccasins. The sole is of two or three thicknesses of heavy rawhide, to
+which the uppers of buckskin are deftly sewn, with strings of catgut or
+deer intestines, the holes being made by a bone awl.
+
+Every summer trading-parties of both Hopis and Navahoes come down to
+the village, bringing blankets, ponies, pottery, and the like, for
+exchange. In 1898 there were three separate bands of Navahoes and two
+of Hopis. Trading is a serious process. Laws of barter or sale are
+first made, before the traders open their packs, and all the people are
+expected to abide by these loosely promulgated laws without question.
+Then the hawa of the Havasupai host is turned into a store. Poles are
+suspended in every possible direction on which to show off the blankets
+to best advantage. A crowd of chattering men and women stand outside,
+or, now and again, come inside, during the whole day, and at night-time
+the men who have done business come in, squat on the ground, and spend
+the hours in smoking, tale-telling, and gossip.
+
+There is difficulty in the Havasupai mind at trading for more than one
+thing at a time. If you wish to buy six articles from the same Indian,
+you cannot pay a lump sum for the six. Each one must be traded and paid
+for separately.
+
+In most things there is no fixed standard of price. Fictitious values
+are placed upon articles of no value whatever, but to which the Indian
+mind has attached singular virtue and importance. On the other hand
+baskets, which require days to manufacture, taking no account of the
+time and arduous labor expended in gathering the materials, dyes, etc.,
+for that purpose, are sold at varying prices, but nearly always far too
+low to begin to compensate them for the efforts expended.
+
+Yet they are keen traders in their way. "What can I get out of him?"
+is the normal attitude of mind, and the price is made to correspond to
+what the seller imagines is the ability of your pocket.
+
+In dealing with them, I adopted the plan years ago, as a fixed rule,
+from which I seldom deviate, to state a figure I will give for things
+offered to me, and that sum, no more, no less, is what I will pay. They
+soon learn this, and, though at times it seems to be a disadvantage, it
+gains the confidence of the Indian and he will the more readily trade
+with me.
+
+I once excited the hearty laughter and some scorn of the Havasupais
+by buying a lot of old baskets, blankets, etc., that they had long
+deemed of no value. I was seeking their older styles of work and
+urged them to bring me "any old trash" they had discarded. The usual
+crowd assembled around my camp, and, as each specimen of dilapidation
+was half-shamefacedly revealed a shout of laughter arose, directed
+partially at the would-be seller for her temerity in supposing that
+such rubbish could ever find a purchaser, and partially at myself for
+being so foolish as to want to carry it away. But I obtained some fine
+specimens, though much worn, of the workmanship I desired, so could
+afford to be very complaisant at the derision I aroused.
+
+The Havasupai is one of the most jolly, frolicsome, and light-hearted
+of mortals. With his stomach full he has no cares, and he goes into fun
+with a zest and energy that are pleasing. He is fond beyond measure of
+practical jokes,--when he is not the victim,--and cares very little who
+suffers so long as he can obtain fun. Consequently if one meets with a
+misfortune, especially a laughable one, he need expect little, if any,
+sympathy in Havasu Canyon.
+
+They are a singular mixture of frankness and cunning, of honor
+and deception, of truth and frankness, of reliability and
+untrustworthiness. They will as deliberately and coolly lie to a white
+man about anything and everything--if it suits their purpose--as they
+will tell the truth. Ask a man his name--an insult, by the way--and he
+will lie to you, even though you are a good friend; as, for instance,
+when, after being the guest of "Supai Charley" for several days, I
+quietly and without seeming intent asked him his name, which I knew
+to be Wa-lu-tha-ma, that I might send him some gifts I had promised.
+For a few moments he hesitated, and then said "Qu-ar-ri"--a Wallapai
+name that has no relation to the Havasus whatever. Sinyela was full of
+deception, and yet, when a friend told him he might catch one of his
+horses and ride it so far, and we reached that point and I suggested to
+him that he take the pony forward and leave it at the designated spot
+on his return, he would not listen to it for a moment.
+
+They are petty thieves, but years of experience have taught me that
+they could not be persuaded to engage in larceny on a grander scale.
+One of my first experiences in this line was to have some little
+thing taken from my camp many years ago (I forget now what it was).
+Immediately I sent for Hotouta, and told him the article must be
+returned. In a few hours the boy thief (now a hang-dog looking buck)
+came and brought back the article.
+
+On my last visit, coffee and candy were taken from my sacks at
+Wa-lu-tha-ma´s hawa, and three necklaces which I had taken as presents
+for some of the children. I spoke angrily to my host of his negligence
+to protect my goods when they were in his care, and, as for the
+necklaces, said if they were not returned by morning I should complain
+to the agent, and have the thief discovered and punished. Long before
+sunrise in the morning the necklaces were returned.
+
+There is a good deal of craft about some of them. For a long time
+Captain Jim and a few others had wished to have a road or trail made
+around Hue-gli-i-wa that would make it less dangerous, and add much
+to the comfort of the people, who lived both above and below this
+spot, when they wished to visit each other. For years nothing was
+done. But when, this year, he took the matter up again, he did it in a
+round-about way that won success. He urged that an invitation be sent
+to the leading horsemen of the Wallapais to bring their best horses and
+come and run races with them. The Wallapais accepted the invitation.
+Now was Captain Jim's opportunity for the display of his finesse. He
+casually suggested to some of the most ardent racers that the way to
+beat the Wallapais was to make a race-track just the same as the white
+men did, and, when it was completed, train their horses to run on it
+until they were so familiar with it that, when the Wallapais came, they
+would be able to take all the advantages this additional knowledge
+would give. The suggestion worked like a charm. It was Tom Sawyer's
+woodpile over again. The young men waited on the Kohot, Manakacha, and
+asked permission to cut a road a mile long through the middle portion
+of the canyon. The only place where this could be done was just where
+Captain Jim desired the road. He was appointed to see that the work
+was properly done, and the first few days of my visit were enlivened
+by the echoing roars of the powder explosions that were set off. When
+I went down to the lower part of the village it was over the new and
+completed road, a full mile in length, and well cut out and graded.
+Such a consummation was devoutly to be wished, and while races are not
+an unmixed good, one could tolerate them the easier for the Havasupais
+if they would always be the means of accomplishing such desirable ends.
+
+The Havasupais are far from being dull and stupid, as casual observers
+suppose. They can see the point of things as quickly as some of their
+white neighbors. For instance; I have elsewhere, in my Grand Canyon
+book, told how Silver, Hotouta's fine horse, was given to Mr. Bass.
+This horse has always been an object of envy to some of the young men
+of the tribe. Mr. Bass also bought from Sinyela a red mule of some of
+my exciting experiences. Having once had possession of this mule was in
+itself an overpowering temptation to those Indians, who, in the days
+of Sinyela's ownership, had been permitted to ride it. Consequently
+Mr. Bass was often annoyed by finding, on his return from an absence
+of a few days, that Silver and the mule, one or both, had been taken
+from the pasture and ridden by the Indians. When he completed his
+trail across the river and finally established the ferry that bears
+his name--the only ferry, by the way, across the Grand Canyon, and the
+only one on the Colorado River between Lee's Ferry and the one below
+the mouth of the canyons--he decided to swim Silver and the mule across
+the river and keep them for use on the north side. When this was done
+Chickapanagie was present. With a twinkle in his eye he said: "Bass
+heap sopogie (understand). Havasupai no ride 'em Silvern, and Red Mule
+no more."
+
+There is wide diversity in the attitude different members of the tribe
+hold towards the whites. Some are friendly, others openly hostile
+and ugly, while others merely receive strangers on sufferance as a
+necessary evil, useful for the purchase of baskets and such other
+things as they may have to dispose of.
+
+Manakacha was elected to his kohot-ship because the majority of the men
+were in favor of keeping out the whites from Havasu Canyon, and he was
+ever averse to the white man.
+
+Those, however, who are friendly, are good and true friends, as those
+who knew Hotouta, Spotty, and others who are gone can testify.
+
+Spotty was a genial, kindly soul, with whom I had various dealings.
+He was intelligent and reliable in his intercourse with me, though a
+medicine-man and ready to dispense charms, incantations, and native
+medicines on the slightest pecuniary provocation. On one of my early
+trips to Havasu I negligently overlooked taking a sufficient supply
+of extra films. What an idea! To start on such a trip and forget one's
+camera rolls. There were about thirty exposures left on my film and I
+was sure I should need two hundred and fifty. Indeed, long before I had
+reached the Havasupai village all the roll was exhausted, and no more
+pictures could be taken.
+
+I was disgusted with my own want of forethought, and generally
+disgruntled, when lo! on sight of Spotty the idea occurred as if by
+inspiration: "Why not send Spotty for it?" No sooner suggested mentally
+than I broached the subject. The round trip was a good fifty-five to
+sixty miles, and much of the road up Havasu Canyon, and I must have the
+roll within twenty-four hours. Spotty's eye was on the main chance, and
+he at once expressed his willingness to go provided there was "enough
+in it." "How much you give me?" he inquired. I considered for a while,
+and then with a Pecksniffian air of benignant charity offered him "two
+dollar!" "Al lite, I go! Maybe so I go quick you catch 'em two dollars
+and a half?" he asked. I studied over it awhile before committing
+myself, and then queried "When you start, Spotty?" Looking up towards
+hue-a-pa-a (the man image) on the upper rim of the near canyon wall,
+he pointed. "I go when you see 'em _ha-ma-si-gu-va´-te_ (the evening
+star)."
+
+"When you come back?"
+
+"I come back next day all same time you see 'em _ha-la'-ha_ (the moon).
+Maybe so I come back sooner you see 'em, you give me two dollar half?"
+
+A twenty-four hours' ride on horseback--nearly sixty miles--through
+a solitary country where his only company would be coyotes, mountain
+lions, and other wild animals, and a large portion of it ridden
+in the dark night, for two dollars, with a bonus of fifty cents if
+the trip was made within twenty-four hours--it was not extravagant
+pay, so I cheerfully acceded to his request for the bonus. But now
+came the difficulty of fully explaining to Spotty what I wanted, and
+where he could find it. The tent at Bass Camp was divided into five
+compartments,--two small rooms with canvas walls on either side of a
+long room which ran through the centre of the tent, its entire width.
+Making a plan of the tent on the ground, so, and giving him the compass
+points, I showed that my "all same white man's basket made of leather,"
+viz., my valise, was in the northeast corner of the southwest room. The
+film was in the valise, but I also needed my ruby lamp, so I deemed it
+best for him to bring valise and lamp, which latter was separate. Off
+he went cheerfully and merrily, and two hours before the moon rose he
+was back at the camp with valise and lamp safe and secure. He received
+his bonus and we were both happy.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Like all other Indians, they used to have an abnormal dread of the
+camera.
+
+One of my Havasupai friends, U-math-ka, thus stated his reasons for
+refusing to be photographed. With graphic gesture of horror and dread
+he said: "If you make my picture I die pretty soon. I look at the Sun.
+He get heap hot. I no breathe. I lie down. I die!" When I assured him
+no possible injury could result, he yielded to my urgent entreaties
+so far as to consent to allow me to make his sun-picture, on the sole
+condition, however, that I did not ask him to look at the camera, or
+to cease talking (he was relating some Havasupai myths at the time).
+His condition was what I desired, for it enabled me to secure the
+accompanying natural and life-like photograph.
+
+In speech the Havasupai tongue is not very musical or agreeable. The
+voices of men and women are soft and sweet, as a rule, and either when
+singing their rude aboriginal songs or those that they have been taught
+at school, they show a natural appreciation of tone that is not usual
+or common. In a sentence the last syllable of the last word is often
+a third higher than the rest of the word. This gives a singularly
+emphatic effect.
+
+The voices of the men are not unpleasant, though generally they are
+thrown too high--head tones--to be agreeable; and as conversation
+increases they often allow their voices to rise to an almost querulous
+note. There is a good deal of the chant about it of a half-musical
+nature.
+
+The women's voices are usually sweet and musical, but the language
+itself does not lend itself to the display of vocal sweetness. It is
+not a "liquid" language. It is full of crooks and twists, gutturals
+and harsh labials, and seems to be ground out in angles with a
+machine-like regularity. In some cases, the women, having imitated
+the querulous tone of some of the men, have developed a harshness
+that is disagreeable. The rapidity with which they learn new words
+is remarkable. Lanoman, one of the present policemen, asked me the
+English of a number of words, and all during the day I heard him
+repeating them over to himself, and seldom would he need correction.
+
+The dress commonly worn by the women consists of a short skirt and
+waist, made of colored calico, and a _si-dram'-a_, which may be
+described as a rude shawl, two corners of which are tied obliquely
+across the chest. When at work this is often slung over one side of
+the body so that one arm is free. Among the Havasupais the si-dram-a
+that is most desired and sought after is one made of four large bandana
+handkerchiefs, with red as the choice of colors.
+
+The men, when I first visited them, seldom wore anything more than the
+breech-clout except in cold weather, but as school influences began to
+permeate the village, blue overalls and the cast-off trousers and other
+clothing of the white man were donned, until now it is a rare sight
+to see a man clothed in any other than the ordinary fashion, though
+the influence of the outside Indians is seen in the Spanish "cut" of
+all home-made garments. Moccasins are the common foot-gear, though
+occasionally a man or woman may be found wearing "civilized" shoes.
+
+Fish, pork, chicken, all kinds of birds and eggs, are tabooed as food
+by the Havasupais, but they eat rats, deer, antelope, rabbit, prairie
+dog, and mountain sheep. They are especially fond of beef, and horse
+and mule meat, no matter how the animals come to their death, are
+esteemed luxuries. They will even eat lizards and lice.
+
+The prickly pear and the fruit of the amole, or hosh-kon, are much
+favored when ripe. The latter is roasted in the coals until the
+outside is completely blackened. A hole is made in this carbonized
+surface to let out the steam, and, when cold, the fruit is eaten as
+a great delicacy. I have often eaten and enjoyed it, though it has a
+sickish-sweet vegetable taste that at first is somewhat unpleasant. The
+pinion nut, sunflower and squash seeds are also regarded as delicacies.
+Practice has made the Havasupais dexterous in eating these husk-covered
+seeds. The novice finds it a wearisome task to hull them, but the
+expert throws a handful of seeds into his mouth, cracks the shells,
+and by skilful manipulation eats the nuts on one side of his mouth and
+expels the shells on the other. When I can do this I shall make a meal
+on pinion nuts, as they are of exquisitely sweet and delicious flavor.
+
+Sunflower seeds, squash seeds, and a variety of wild grass seeds
+and corn are parched by the women by placing them in saucer-shaped
+baskets--or kü-üs´--with hot ashes, and then tossing them up and down
+and to and fro until sufficiently cooked. The seeds are then scooped
+out with the fingers, and ground on a slab of basaltic rock, by rubbing
+one stone over the other. On the occasion of one of my visits, when I
+was the guest of Chickapanagie, I made the accompanying photograph of
+his wife as she thus parched corn in a basket. It was the placing of
+a covering of clay inside the kü-ü, to prevent its burning, that led
+Frank Cushing to the belief that here was the explanation of the origin
+of pottery.[8]
+
+[8] See chapter "Basketry the Mother of Pottery," in "Indian Basketry,"
+by George Wharton James.
+
+Green squash is cooked after being hacked into pieces in an apparently
+reckless but most effective manner. With the squash in one hand,
+the woman takes a large butcher knife in the other and strikes
+indifferently at the squash, turning it around and at different angles
+the while. In a few moments chips, as it were, begin to fall into
+the cooking pot, and after the exterior is cut and hacked in every
+direction the cook begins to slice it into the pot. When well cooked,
+it is eaten without any other improvement than a little salt.
+
+Corn and beans are plentiful with them, and both are as delicious and
+tender as any I have ever tasted elsewhere.
+
+Mescal is one of their chief foods. It is made by them exactly as the
+Wallapais make it. That fibrous portion of the plant that cannot be
+treated in this manner is boiled, and the drink therefrom, when fresh,
+is a sickish-sweet liquid, that, however, might soon become agreeable.
+This liquid is of a dark brown color, and when boiled for a long time
+becomes a species of thin molasses.
+
+The Havasupais know no process of fermentation so far as I have been
+able to learn, and the elders of the people long objected to the coming
+of the white man because one of the bad things he brought to the Indian
+was whiskey and other intoxicants.
+
+Quail and ducks abound in various parts of the Havasu Canyon region.
+Even to this day many of the latter are shot, for sale to the white
+man, with the arrow instead of the gun. The Havasupais claim that the
+arrow is far less liable to scare away the flock than is the loud
+report of a gun, so they keep up their practice with the antiquated bow
+and arrow, and some of them show wonderful skill in their use. I have
+often placed a ten-cent piece in a notched stick and enjoyed watching
+the young men as they fired their arrows at it at a distance of fifty
+paces. Their skill was such that on one occasion I lost a dollar thus
+within half an hour.
+
+At one time in February I found the canyon alive with quail, the
+whirring of whose wings met us on every hand as we rode along from hawa
+to hawa.
+
+I am told there is no fish in Havasu Creek above Mooney Falls, but
+from the base of this fall on to the river both large and small fish
+are abundant. I rather doubt this, as on the occasion of my attempt to
+reach Beaver Falls down the course of the creek from Mooney Falls I saw
+no fish, nor signs of any.
+
+One of the Havasupais tells me that mountain sheep may be seen on the
+northern rim of the Grand Canyon in small bands. When the snow is deep
+upon the Buckskin Mountains and the Kaibab Plateau they descend to
+the more temperate regions of the canyon where grass may be found in
+plenty, and then the Paiuti and Paieed Indians kill them, drying the
+flesh for later use. This they do regardless of a territorial law,
+which forbids even an Indian killing mountain sheep at any time. The
+Indian regards his as a prior right, existing long before there was any
+territorial legislature, and he acts accordingly.
+
+Mountain lions, wildcats, lynxes, coyotes, badgers, deer, and antelope,
+with an occasional mountain sheep and bear, are the larger quarry of
+the Havasupai hunters. The deer and antelope they find in the open
+grassy glades of the forests on the canyon rim and reaching towards
+the desert. The other game is generally found in the recesses of the
+canyons or on the slopes of the far-away mountains of Hue-han-a-patch-a
+(the San Franciscos), Hue-ga-wool-a (Williams Mountain), or
+Hue-ga-da-wi-za (Red Butte).
+
+Some of the skins are dressed with the hair on and are used for
+clothing, as sleeping mats, or are sold to the travellers at the trains
+or traded at the stores on the railway. But many of the better skins
+are carefully tanned and dressed and converted into buckskins, as
+before stated.
+
+This, indeed, is one of their staple articles of trade, good buckskins
+fetching as high as five dollars and even ten dollars cash. I have
+several times seen a blanket for which I had offered eight dollars or
+ten dollars readily exchanged for a simple buckskin, and it is not an
+unusual occurrence to note a trade where a fair Navaho pony is given
+for a large and well-dressed skin.
+
+The outside Indians that the Havasupais are familiar with are the
+friendly Wallapais, whom they call their cousins, the Hopis and the
+Navahoes. They have often had wars with the hated Mohaves, Apaches, and
+Paiutis. The Chemhuevis, Pimas, and Maricopas are their distant, little
+known, but accepted friends. Far-away Zuni is Si-u, and still farther
+Acoma is Ac-o-ca-va, and though intercourse with the people of these
+villages is rare, it has always been friendly.
+
+For the grazing and watering of their horses and other stock each head
+of a family has a certain region allotted to him, over the boundaries
+of which he may not allow his stock to wander, except when removing
+them or by special permission. Manakacha, the head Kohot, takes the
+range formerly owned or controlled by Captain Navaho, the late Kohot,
+viz., the region of Black Tanks. Rock Jones (the chief medicine-man)
+has Topocobya Canyon and the plateau above as far as the other side
+of the Grand Canyon towards the Mystic Spring Trail, where begins the
+territory of Vesna, Captain Burro, and Chickapanagie. This includes
+the south banks of the Grand Canyon towards the Little Colorado River
+and including the Mystic Spring, the Bright Angel, the Grand View,
+Hance's old and the Red Canyon Trails, in the neighborhood of which,
+for centuries, the Havasupais have been descending. Indeed, it was
+the Havasupais who made the "Indian Gardens" that are so charming a
+feature of the Bright Angel Trail. Sinyela has the upper part of Havasu
+Canyon reaching to Bass's camp at the Caves, named by the Havasupais
+Wai-a-mel. Uta and Waluthama have the lower portion of Havasu Canyon,
+around to the head of Beaver Canyon and all the territory on the south
+side as far as Hack-a-tai-a--the Colorado River.
+
+Thus there are no disputes arising over the wrongful pasturage of
+stock, as each Indian regards himself as bound by the strictest ties
+of honor not to deviate from these established and long-observed
+boundaries.
+
+As I have before stated, the Havasupais at one time owned the whole
+of the Kohonino Forest region and also the trails into Hack-a-tai-a
+(the Grand Canyon). From time immemorial they have hunted from Havasu
+(Cataract) Canyon to the Little Colorado, and, of course, have had
+access to the water pockets, or rock tanks, in which rain water
+accumulates all along this dry and springless region. In talking
+with one of the Indians recently he asked me if the Great Father
+at Washington could do nothing for him and his people so that they
+might still continue to use the water pockets of their ancestral
+hunting-ground. He said, "You sabe Ha-ha-poo-ha (Rain Tank) and
+Ha-wai-i-tha-qual-ga (Rowe's Well) and Ha-ga-tha-wa-di-a (the water
+hole near Hance's Camp) and Ha-ha-i-ga-sa-jul-ga (Red Horse Tank),
+Havasupai use these water holes when him go hunt deer and antelope.
+Now white man him come and say, 'D-- you, you get away. I've got no
+water for any blanked Indian.' We no catch 'em water, we no go hunt,
+and we no go hunt we no catch 'em deer and antelope and jack rabbit,
+and by-em-by our squaws and boys and gels go heap hungry. Maybe so you
+see 'em Great Father at Washington and you tell him, and ask him what
+Havasupai do."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+THE HAVASUPAIS' RELIGIOUS DANCES AND BELIEFS
+
+
+The Havasupais do not occupy a high place in the scale of religious
+life. They are very different from the Hopis and Navahoes. They have
+few ceremonies, few prayers, and few ideas connected with the world of
+spirits. If evil comes upon them they seek to propitiate the power that
+caused it. They dance and pray. But there is no system, no recurrence
+of elaborate ceremonials year after year. Indeed, the only regular
+dance that I have personally seen is that of the annual harvest, and
+that is occasionally omitted. The Sick Dance, as its name implies, is
+for the purpose of healing the sick.
+
+On the second night of my first visit to the Havasupais my companions
+and I were invited by Hotouta to accompany him to one of these harvest
+thanksgiving dances. It was a wild and fantastic scene. Gathered
+together in a circular enclosure, the fence made of willow poles bound
+together with withes of the same tree, were between one hundred and
+two hundred Indians of both sexes in any and all manner of dress and
+undress. Three or four bonfires added to the weirdness by throwing
+peculiar lights and shadows upon the countenances of those present. At
+times there was a silence which became almost solemn in its intensity,
+and then talking and chattering broke out again, as if the sound of
+their own voices helped, in some measure, to relieve the painfulness
+of the solemnity of this not-very-welcome religious ceremonial. I was
+actually gazing upon the preparations in progress for the sacred peach
+dance. One by one the notables of the tribe were pointed out to me.
+There stood Kohot Navaho in proud solitariness, eyeing the preparations
+with a moodiness which became his serious and taciturn nature. Not a
+thing of importance passed his eye. His keen powers of observation
+took in the frivolity of certain young Havasupai belles as well as the
+actions of the Chemehuevi Indian who was to be director of the music
+of this religious festival. By his side stood his second son, who, in
+gentle and mellifluous speech was talking to those with whom he came in
+contact. Hotouta, the second chief, was by my side, acting as guide,
+chaperon, and instructor in the mysteries. Here was his daughter, a
+fine buxom lass of sixteen summers, with merry, laughing eyes, saucy
+lips, thick black hair, cut with the usual deep fringe on her forehead,
+and a voice that would have been the fortune of an American girl who
+desired a place on the operatic stage. Yonder stood Ha-a-pat-cha, a
+fine athletic fellow with muscles of steel and a chest like that of an
+ox, whose only costume was the gee-string. He marched to and fro as if
+consciously proud of his fine figure, came up at a call from Hotouta
+and seemed to be highly pleased with his introduction to us, although
+there was an air of condescension in his handshake which suggested that
+I was the honored person. Perhaps I was! _Quien sabe?_
+
+Near by stood Mr. Bass and a special commissioner sent by the United
+States Indian Department to report on the condition of the Havasupais,
+and seek to gain their consent to send their children to the Indian
+school at Fort Mohave.
+
+I was too tired that night to stay long. So after an hour's
+watching I returned to Hotouta's hawa, stretched myself out on the
+sand--_outside_--in my blankets, and was soothed to sleep by the
+monotonous chant of the dancers.
+
+Next day, in a burst of frolicsomeness I exclaimed to my friend, who
+was commonly called Tom by the whites:
+
+"Hotouta, why you no let me dance, all same Havasupai?"
+
+It never entered my comprehension that Tom would regard the remark with
+serious attention, hence my astonishment can better be imagined than
+described when thoughtfully he turned to me and said:
+
+"Maybe so! Me no know! Maybe so Havasupai no like 'em you dance. Maybe
+so they all same like 'em! I see pretty soon."
+
+"Pretty soon" he came back with a cheery "All right! Navaho say you
+dance. Havasupai like 'em you!"
+
+Here was a fine predicament! I had never danced a step in my life.
+In the few ball-rooms I had visited I had been a "wall flower." But
+in this case I had provoked the invitation myself, so, after a brief
+mental struggle, as gracefully as possible I accepted the consequences
+of my own rash speech.
+
+When the hour arrived I placed myself under the hands of Hotouta,
+Yunosi his squaw, and their daughter, in order that I might be properly
+and appropriately apparelled for the occasion. The first salutation
+somewhat daunted me. Tom said, "You catch 'em white shirt!" The only
+white shirt I had was a night robe which had done service to such an
+extent that I had placed it in my saddlebags when we left civilized
+regions for the purpose of wrapping up specimens of rock to take home.
+Its "whiteness" may have been somewhat of a memory. But I brought it
+forth, and waited anxiously for Hotouta's approval. He was delighted,
+and I felt reassured.
+
+When it was donned, and a pair of blue overalls, I was ready to receive
+the painted lines of sub-chieftainship on my face, and the eagle plume
+in my hair.
+
+Then, in solemn dignity, we started down, Indian file, for the dance
+ground. At least Hotouta and I were dignified, while behind us Mr.
+Bass and the special Indian Commissioner were making frantic endeavors
+to hold in their laughter at the rude and brutal (!) jokes they were
+making at my expense. We had not proceeded far before Hotouta stopped
+me and with solemn face said: "You dance, you no laugh. Havasupai no
+like 'em you laugh!" I promised to be "as sober as a judge," and not
+laugh, and again we proceeded, to be stopped once more by Hotouta, who
+explained with perfect seriousness: "Maybe so you dance heap harnegi.
+Havasu squaw, she like 'em you. You catch 'em one squaw. Then you dance
+more and maybe so you catch 'em two squaw. She come, all same" (and
+here Hotouta illustrated how the squaw might come and separate me from
+my male companion to right or left, and take my hand in the fashion
+afterwards described). "She take your hand, all same. You no nip. She
+no like 'em you nip." I promised not to "nip," and with satisfaction
+Hotouta now led the way to the dance ground.
+
+After a formal introduction to all the chiefs and their approval given
+to my being accepted as Hotouta's brother and a fellow chief with him
+in the tribe of the Havasupais, the dance began. This is how it was
+conducted.
+
+The "evangelist" sang over a strain of a new song. A dozen or so of the
+leaders took it up, and as soon as they were fairly familiar with it,
+the others joined in. Then the women took a hand, literally as well as
+figuratively, for they came in and separated the men, interlocking the
+fingers, midway between the first and second knuckle joints, standing
+shoulder to shoulder, and enlarging the group until a complete circle
+was formed. Then, with a side shuffling motion, moving one foot to the
+left and following it rapidly but rhythmically with the other, the
+while lustily and seriously singing the song they had just learned, the
+dance continued,--a dull, monotonous, sleep-producing ceremony, until
+the onlooker was awakened by manifestations he little expected to see
+at an Indian thanksgiving dance. Very often it occurs that women of the
+tribe are affected with a somewhat similar excitement to that which
+seizes the negro when he has "the power." With a shriek, the woman
+hysterically leaps within the circle made by the dancers, and howls
+and shouts and dances and jumps, and then, perhaps, throws herself in
+a heavy stupor upon the ground. Some will run to the centre post, and,
+hanging on with one or both hands, will swing rapidly around until they
+fall exhausted to the ground. When the male members tire of seeing
+these excitable females upon the ground, they unostentatiously step up
+to the prostrate figures, seize their long thick hair, swing it over
+the shoulder, and thus proceed to drag the now exhausted women to the
+fires, where friends of their own sex attend them until they "come to."
+
+And what did all this ceremony mean?--for to the Havasupais it was a
+ceremony, performed with as much dignity as we perform our religious
+services in church or cathedral. While I was dancing Hotouta was giving
+an explanation to Mr. Bass. Each year this dance is performed as an act
+of highest devotion to gain the approbation of "Those Above." The Peach
+Dance is the "harvest thanksgiving" dance--when thanks are made for the
+gifts of the past and prayers are offered for the needs of the future.
+
+The leader of the singing was a Chemehuevi Indian,--a tribe located
+west of the Wallapais and living mainly on the California side of the
+Colorado River.
+
+He was a regular "evangelist" amongst the Indians,--a native Moody, and
+gifted enough, musically, to perform the part of Sankey or Excell. His
+harangue on this occasion was an unusually fervent oration, especially
+cutting to Hotouta, for he was one of the chief objects of the
+"evangelist's" vituperation and abuse. In fact had Hotouta been a white
+man he would have gone away saying the preacher was "horribly personal
+and disgracefully abusive" to the leading members of his congregation.
+He explained that the reason the tribe had lost so many of its members
+last year by the dread "grippe" was because of their levity. They had
+laughed too much, gone hunting and visiting white men's camps when
+they ought to have been dancing. They were allowing the white man
+to laugh them out of the traditions of their forefathers. Then he
+especially denounced all friendliness to the whites, and singled out
+Hotouta, Chickapanagie, Spotted Tail, and one or two others who had
+been the leaders in thus countenancing the whites, and administered
+to them severe rebukes. After this, referring to the offer of the
+whites to give them farming implements, food, etc., if they would send
+their children to the Indians' school at Mohave, he urged his hearers
+to listen to no such proposals. He said in effect: "Don't send your
+children to the school of the white man. If you do they will grow up
+with the heart of the white man, and the place of the Havasupai will
+know them no more. Your tribe will be broken up, and then the white
+man will come and take possession of your canyon home where the stream
+ever flows and sings to the waving of willows by their side. He will
+rob you of your corn-fields and of your peach orchards. No longer will
+the place where the bodies of your ancestors were burned be sacred to
+you; your hunting-grounds are now all occupied by him, the deer and the
+antelope have nearly disappeared before his rifle, and he is hungry
+to possess the few things you still have left. This offer is a secret
+plot against you. He thinks if he cannot drive you out he will seduce
+you out, and this school is the offer he makes to you, so that he can
+get your children into his hands. There he will teach them to make fun
+of you; to despise your method of living; your houses, your food, your
+dress, your customs, your dances will all be ridiculed by him, and
+so you will lose the favor of 'Those Above,' and you yourselves will
+soon die and your name and tribe be forgotten." In other words, he
+endeavored to make it perfectly clear to the assembled Havasupais that
+the school proposition was a white man's scheme--a dodge--to get their
+children away so that eventually they--the whites--might claim the
+Havasu Canyon for themselves.
+
+Thus he exhorted time after time, and, after each sermon, sang out,
+line for line, a new song that he desired them to learn. At first
+he alone sang, then Navaho and a few of the older ones took up the
+strain, and soon all joined in. Then the dance began, and continued
+with unabated zeal and fervor until the "missioner" gave the signal for
+rest. Then, after another harangue, another song was learned, another
+dance performed, and so on, _ad libitum_.
+
+The state of mental exaltation or frenzy, not unlike those peculiar
+manifestations of the negroes at revival meetings, the Shakers, "having
+the power" etc., is not uncommon among the Havasupais. At the Thapala
+Dance I have seen three women almost simultaneously suddenly dart
+from different parts of the dance circle, and hysterically shrieking,
+yelling, and singing, foaming at the mouth, tearing their hair, falling
+down with violence, and with appalling disregard to the injury to their
+own bodies dash against each other, or on the great central tree trunk,
+which stands like a flagpole in the centre of their dance corral,
+yield to this uncontrollable frenzy, and remain under its influence
+for an hour or more. During the whole time of their ecstasy, the dance
+continued uninterruptedly, except when one of the frenzied women dashed
+towards the dancers as if to escape the circle. Then the man nearest
+by rudely took her by the arms, body, or shoulders and thrust her,
+shrieking, back into the centre of the circle.
+
+Yunosi gained her present name because of her occult powers and
+frenzied visions. After Hotouta's death she would occasionally wake
+up and cry out that she saw the spirit of her husband, "Tom, heap
+big Supai chief." And, strange to say, in these exalted moments she
+invariably spoke in the crude English her husband had taught her and
+of which she was very proud. Pointing into vacant space, with glaring
+eyes and excited voice, she would declare that she saw "Big chief Tom.
+He come back to see me. O Tom! Tom! I see you." Then turning to her
+friends and others around, she would shriekingly ask, "You no see? You
+no see?" And thus she gained her name, Yunosi.
+
+Thinking that perhaps the Havasupais used some herb, drug, or
+intoxicant, similar to opium, hasheesh, or the stramonium (jimson-weed)
+which the Navahoes use to produce similar frenzies and visions, I
+took some of this, which they call smal-a-ga-to-a, and asked several
+if they ever used it. In every case the answer was a sharp "No!
+Han-a-to-op-o-gi," and one Havasu informed me it was "very bad. All
+same white man's whiskey." Indeed, such has been the excellent teaching
+they have received from their ancients, and the tenacity with which
+they, as a people, have adhered to it, it may be safely affirmed that
+the Havasupais use no noxious drug, or fermented or intoxicating
+liquor, and that they do not know any processes by which they can be
+made.
+
+The ways of the Havasupai medicine-men are similar to those of fakirs
+in all lands and ages. I have seen Rock Jones, after examining a
+patient, jump up and excitedly exclaim: "I can see into your head
+and all through your brains; down your throat and into your stomach,
+through your kidneys, bladder, and intestines, and you are sick, very
+sick, very heap sick. But I am a good medicine-man. I can cure you
+sure, I can cure you quick. But you must promise to give me five
+dollars. Don't forget I must have five dollars."
+
+[Illustration: ROCK JONES, LEADING MEDICINE MAN OF HAVASUPAIS.]
+
+[Illustration: SINYELA, WITH ESUWA, GOING FOR WATER.]
+
+In one case with which I was familiar, the medicine-man declared that
+the heart of one sick man had gone away to the topmost peak of one of
+the canyon walls. It would cost several dollars to charm it back, but
+he could do it. Yielding to the pleadings of the man without the heart,
+he began to exercise his charms and incantations, and the next day he
+came in and declared he had seen it return during the early morning
+hours, and his patient would recover. His prognostication was correct;
+the man was soon well and strong, and paid his six-dollar fee for
+having his heart returned to him, with due gratitude and thankfulness.
+
+Another man who had been on the trail of some runaway horses had become
+overheated and was attacked severely with cholera morbus. He was
+brought into the village nearly dead, his pains increased by a terrible
+soreness in his back, caused by severe vomitings. The medicine-man
+gave him a large dose of red pepper, and, after sucking the flesh of
+his stomach, bowels, and back, rubbed the body of the sick man with
+red pepper, and then began his incantations. Soon he declared that a
+Wallapai doctor who hated the Havasupais had left a long white rope
+on the trail over which the sick man passed, and that it was this
+charmed rope which had entered his body and caused the sickness. On
+the promise of a fee of several dollars, he expressed confidence that
+the rope could be successfully taken from the invalid, and that its
+removal would be followed by immediate recovery. After a little time
+had elapsed, the crafty charlatan produced a long white rope, which he
+said his skill had extracted. Needless to add, the patient recovered,
+and to this day extols the wonderful skill and power of his physician.
+
+Of late years a large number of Havasupais have been carried off with
+a bilious fever, with marked malarial symptoms. The usual indifference
+in the earlier stages of the disease gives way later on to frantic
+sweatings and appeals to the medicine-man, who comes and sings and
+seeks by his incantations to remove the evil something within the
+patient that causes the disease. If the sick person is daring enough to
+apply to the agency teacher for medicine, he knows that he no longer
+need expect any help from the medicine-man, whose curses will follow
+him to the world of doom. As in the world of civilization there is
+jealousy, sharp and keen, between the schools of medicine, so do the
+Havasupai medicine-men resent any innovations upon their time-honored
+customs.
+
+Here, as elsewhere, one man's skill and reputation is oftentimes
+maintained by pulling down that of another. Dr. Tommy used to be a
+fairly successful medicine-man, but once, during a fearful epidemic
+of grippe, several children died under his ministrations. It was soon
+noticed that those parents whose children had been treated by another
+medicine-man were active in spreading the report that "they believed
+Dr. Tommy had killed the children by giving them coyote medicine." And
+this "tommy-rot" killed him as a medicine-man, for, though he was never
+brought to any trial on account of this charge, he was shunned and
+ostracized, and in very rare cases is ever called upon to exercise his
+medical powers.
+
+There are now three medicine-men in the tribe, the chief of whom
+is Rock Jones, whose Havasupai names are suggestive. They are:
+Pa-a-hu-ya´ and In-ya-ja-al´-o, the former signifying "black," the
+other "the rising sun." At-nahl, whose name means a "sack," is the
+second in importance, and the youngest is Ma-tō-mā´, commonly
+known as Bob. I have just asked Lanoman which is the best medicine-man
+of the three, and his reply when I asked "Who makes the sick people
+well the quickest?" was: "All same. All no good. All make people dead
+pretty quick!"
+
+Death is supposed to be, in every case, the departure of the spirit
+from the body, and when the sick person is approaching death the
+friends and relatives, led by the medicine-man, will often sit around
+the invalid and sing their petitions to the departing spirit in the
+hope that it may be led to repent and return to the body. If the
+patient recovers, the medicine-man takes the credit (and what pay he
+can get) for the return of the spirit, and goes about in high feather,
+recounting to all he meets the new instance of his wonderful and occult
+power.
+
+One of the greatest insults that can be offered to the friends of a
+dead Havasupai is to refer to him. The reason given to me for this is
+that whenever a thought is sent after a dead person it either prevents
+his spirit continuing the journey to Shi-pa-pu, or leads him to desire
+to return to earth, neither of which are good for a Havasupai.
+
+One of the school teachers informed me that she once, in reconvening
+the school after a holiday, read out the name of a child that had
+recently died. The moment the name was pronounced several of both
+boys and girls burst out, some into a wild wailing and others into
+fierce and angry denunciations of the wicked white woman who had thus
+arrested the spirit of the deceased on its journey to the underworld.
+
+The last night of our first visit the Havasupais had a Sick Dance. When
+one of their number is very sick or about to die, the medicine-man
+summons the principal men and women of the camp to dance around him, in
+the hope of driving away the disease. It so happened that during our
+visit one of the young bucks was very sick, and a dance was ordered
+for Saturday evening. It was quite a distance away from our camp, and
+Vesna, whose guest we were that night, informed us that we would not be
+welcomed. The welcome would have been overlooked but for our need of
+rest, and as it was a mile or two away, it was decided not to attend,
+although we could hear the incantations at intervals during the night.
+The dance, however, was similar to such dances elsewhere. The sick man
+was placed in the open air and a circle formed around him, while a
+slow and solemn dance was engaged in by those in the circle, and all
+participated in the chanting of an incantation. This was kept up during
+the entire night, the voices of the singers at times pitched to a very
+high key. As soon as one in the circle grew tired, he dropped out and
+another took his place, but the dance and chant never ceased. If a sick
+man survives the noise and din and wakefulness of this until morning,
+it is probable that his vitality will carry him through, and he will
+recover.
+
+If death is thought to be certainly near, the best clothes of the
+wardrobe are brought out and placed upon the dying person. A woman's
+best dress is not too good for her to die in, and a man's finest
+garments, even to the broadcloth cast-off "Prince Albert" received
+through the kindness of some white friend in the East, is deemed the
+only appropriate gear in which to meet the dread summons to Shi-pa-pu.
+When life is extinct the dressed-up body is wrapped in the best
+blanket the hawa affords, and is then ready for the period of wailing
+and mourning. Relatives and friends of the deceased come and sit in
+the hawa, and as the spirit moves them they raise their voices in
+lamentation, or, singing the bravery, the daring, the good deeds of
+the deceased, ask for him a safe journey to the dread secret places
+of the underworld. Nothing can be more doleful than to hear these
+sad lamentations in the dead of the night. All is still, except the
+never-silent stream which steadily keeps up its murmur as it flows over
+the stones. Otherwise the very Angel of Silence seems to be brooding
+over the scene, for the babble of the creek merely accentuates the
+nearly perfect stillness. Suddenly a loud, long, minor wail rises from
+the hawa in the midst of the willows, and one feels that he can see the
+sound ascend to the heights of these enclosing walls, striking here and
+there, and then rebounding to opposing walls, until the canyon is full
+of voices, wailing one against the other and making a spirit chorus of
+infinite sadness and distress. The imagination unconsciously suggests
+that these echoing wails are the sympathizing spirit voices of men and
+women--former inhabitants of this canyon of the willows--who have come
+to weep with those who weep for their dead loved ones.
+
+There is no fixed period for this wailing, but as soon as it is
+satisfactorily concluded the body is tenderly thrown across the
+best horse owned by the deceased, if a man,--or ridden by her, if
+a woman,--and, accompanied by other animals conveying some of his
+or her most desirable treasures, is taken to the burial or burning
+ground. Prior to the advent of the white man the Havasupais practised
+cremation, and between Bridal Veil and Mooney Falls, and also on the
+rim of the Grand Canyon, at a place since named Crematory Point, the
+remains of scores of burned bodies of men and women and also of horses
+were recently to be seen. For it was deemed of the greatest importance
+to give the spirit of the deceased the spirit of his dead horse, upon
+which he might ride to the dark abode of the underworld. Before it was
+burned, the horse must be strangled, and this was done by tightly tying
+a strip of wet buckskin around his neck, and, as it dried, it rapidly
+contracted and thus strangled the doomed animal. Then both human being
+and animal were burned.
+
+But even this was not considered a sufficient offering to the powers of
+the dead. Returning to the village, a peach tree in the orchard of the
+dead man was cut down that it might also be "dead" and thus accompany
+its owner to the spirit world and give him its refreshing fruit
+there. On the death of a chieftain or great warrior, several peach
+trees--thapala--are cut down.
+
+Of late years, however, these customs of cremation, strangling of
+horses, burning of treasures, and cutting down of peach trees have
+not been as universal as formerly. Hotouta, the oldest son of Kohot
+Navaho, the last of the old chiefs, had great influence with his
+people, and Mr. Bass succeeded in convincing him of the extravagant
+folly of thus wasting on the dead, to whom the sacrifices were of no
+benefit, that which could be of so much use to the living. Consequently
+his influence materially helped to change the custom from cremation to
+ground interment. Later, after Hotouta's death, when several families
+had gone back to the old habit of cremation, others exercised their
+influence with the Havasupais to lead them to abandon the old custom.
+These endeavors were all effective to a large extent, and, when Captain
+Navaho, the last great Kohot the Havasupais will ever have, died in
+1898, he was buried instead of being cremated. Late in 1897, however,
+the son of Sinyela died, and though in many things Sinyela is one of
+the most progressive of the Havasupais, he and his brother took the
+boy's body across a horse, tied an axe to the corpse, and started up
+the canyon towards Topocobya. When they returned the axe had been used,
+the horse was strangled, and burned bones of human and equine bodies in
+a side gorge attest the hold the old superstitions and customs still
+have upon the Havasupai mind.
+
+And again in the summer of 1899--May or June--when the daughter of
+the present Kohot and wife of Lanoman (another son of Sinyela) died,
+Lanoman felt that nothing short of the old and time-honored method of
+cremation would be suitable for the daughter of the new chief and the
+wife of so smart and bright an Indian as himself. For Lanoman knew more
+English, perhaps, than any other Havasupai, and was afflicted with the
+not uncommon complaint of great self-esteem and conceit. Accordingly,
+the body was clothed in the finest blankets of the wardrobe, and many
+precious things were taken with it to the Havasu Canyon below Mooney
+Falls. Tenderly the body was lowered down the already nearly useless
+ladder, and after suitable wailing, the funeral pyre was built, the
+body placed thereupon, more wood heaped around and over the body,
+and then the whole fired. When the body was destroyed, the mourners
+returned, kicking down the upper portion of the ladder as they did so,
+that no other Havasupai should be burned there, and also that no white
+foot should again desecrate the sacred precincts of the lower Havasu
+Canyon. Then, that the favorite horse of the woman thus honored after
+her death should follow her to the underworld, it was taken to the
+edge of the plateau above, from which the descent to Bridal Veil and
+the upper portion of Mooney Falls is made, the wet strip of buckskin
+tied around its neck, and, as the cord dried and tightened, and the
+poor animal began to reel and totter in its death struggles, it was
+given a push, tumbled over the edge, and--instead of descending to the
+lower canyon at the foot of the Falls where the burned body was--fell
+on the shelves of limestone accretions which terrace the canyon at the
+side of the Falls, bounded from one terrace to another, and then, to
+the infinite disgust of the mourners, lodged there. And there it still
+remains--or what is left of it, for, as I passed by in July, 1899,
+though I could not see the animal, the frightful odor of the carrion
+ascended to the very heavens.
+
+
+
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHY
+
+
+On the Navahoes consult the full list prepared by Professor Frederick
+Webb Hodge in Washington Matthews' "Navaho Legends," published by
+Houghton, Mifflin & Co., for the American Folk-Lore Society.
+
+COUES, ELLIOTT.
+
+On the Trail of a Spanish Pioneer. The Diary and Itinerary of Francisco
+Garcés in his Travels through Sonora, Arizona, and California. 2 vols.
+Francis P. Harper, New York, 1900.
+
+DORSEY, GEORGE A., AND VOTH, H. R.
+
+The Oraibi Soyal Ceremony. (Field Columbian Museum, publication 55,
+Anthropological Series, Vol. III, No. 1. 59 pages and many plates.)
+
+FEWKES, JESSE WALTER.
+
+Preliminary Account of an Expedition to the Pueblo Ruins near Winslow,
+Arizona, in 1896. (In Smithsonian Report for 1896. Pages 517 to 539.)
+
+Preliminary Account of Archæological Field Work in Arizona in 1897. (In
+Smithsonian Report for 1897. Pages 601 to 603.)
+
+Two Ruins Recently Discovered in the Red Rock Country, Arizona. (In
+American Anthropologist, August, 1896. Pages 263 to 283.)
+
+Pueblo Ruins near Flagstaff, Arizona. (In American Anthropologist, N.
+S., Vol. II, 1900. Pages 422 to 450.)
+
+A Suggestion as to the Meaning of the Moki Snake Dance. (In Journal of
+American Folk-Lore, date unknown. Pages 129 to 138.)
+
+The Owakulti Altar at Sichomovi Pueblo. (In American Anthropologist, N.
+S., Vol. III, 1901. Pages 211 to 226.)
+
+An Interpretation of Katchina Worship. (In the Journal of American
+Folk-Lore, April-June, 1901. Pages 81 to 94.)
+
+The Pueblo Settlements near El Paso, Texas. (In American
+Anthropologist, N. S., Vol. IV, No. 1, 1902. Pages 57 to 95.)
+
+The New Fire Ceremony at Walpi. (In American Anthropologist, N. S.,
+Vol. II, No. 1, 1900. Pages 80 to 138.)
+
+Property Rights in Eagles among the Hopi. (In American Anthropologist,
+N. S., Vol. II, 1900. Pages 690 to 707.)
+
+Tusayan Flute and Snake Ceremonies. (In Nineteenth Annual Report Bureau
+of American Ethnology, 1901. Pages 957 to 1011.)
+
+Archæological Expedition to Arizona in 1895. (In Seventeenth Annual
+Report Bureau of American Ethnology, 1898. Pages 520 to 744.)
+
+Snake Ceremonials at Walpi. (Vol. XIV. of Journal of American Ethnology
+and Archæology. Houghton, Mifflin & Co., Boston, 1894. In this volume
+is a carefully prepared bibliography on the Snake Dance (see pages 124
+to 126) which is too lengthy to be reproduced here and to which the
+student is referred.)
+
+GARCÉS, FRANCISCO.
+
+Diary and Itinerary, translated by Elliott Coues. (See Coues.)
+
+HOUGH, WALTER.
+
+Environmental Interrelations in Arizona. (In American Anthropologist
+for May, 1898. Pages 133 to 155.)
+
+JAMES, GEORGE WHARTON.
+
+In and Around the Grand Canyon. Little, Brown, & Co., Boston, Mass.,
+1900.
+
+Indian Basketry. Henry Malkan, New York, 1901.
+
+The Havasupai Indians and their Cataract Canyon Home. (In Good Health,
+Battle Creek, Mich., August, 1899. Pages 446 to 456.)
+
+The Industries of the Navahoes and Mokis. (In Good Health, June, 1899.
+Pages 315 to 322.)
+
+The Pueblo Indians and their Prayer Spring. (In Good Health, July,
+1899. Pages 379 to 384.)
+
+The Snake Dance of the Mokis. (Two articles in Scientific American, New
+York, June 24, 1899, and September 9, 1899.)
+
+Scenes of Spanish Occupancy in our Southwest. (In American Monthly
+Review of Reviews, July, 1899. Pages 51 to 59.)
+
+Discovery of Cliff Dwellings in the Southwest. (In Scientific American,
+New York, January 20, 1900.)
+
+What I Saw at the Snake Dance. (In Wide World Magazine, London,
+January, 1900. Pages 264 to 274.)
+
+Harvest Festivals of Some of our Southwestern Aborigines. (In Good
+Health, October, 1899. Pages 583 to 589.)
+
+Moki Fashions and Customs. (In Good Health, November, 1899. Pages 641
+to 647).
+
+Types of Female Beauty among the Indians of the Southwest. (In Overland
+Monthly, San Francisco, Cal., March, 1900. Pages 195 to 209).
+
+Some Indian Women. (In New York Tribune Supplement, April 8, 1900.)
+
+The Fire Dance of the Navahoes. (In Wide World Magazine, London,
+September, 1900. Pages 516 to 523.)
+
+The Hopi Basket Dance. (In New York Tribune Supplement.)
+
+Indian Madonnas. (In New York Tribune Supplement, December 23, 1900.)
+
+Indian Pottery. (In House Beautiful, Chicago, April, 1901. Pages 235 to
+243.)
+
+Down the Topocobya Trail. (In Wide World Magazine, London, April, 1901.
+Pages 75 to 80.)
+
+Indian Basketry. (In Outing, New York, May, 1901. Pages 177 to 186.)
+
+The Storming of Awatobi. (In the Chautauquan, Cleveland, O., August,
+1901. Pages 497 to 501.)
+
+The Art of Indian Basketry. (In the Southern Workman, Hampton, Va.,
+August, 1901. Pages 439 to 448.)
+
+Indian Basketry in House Decoration. (In the Chautauquan, Cleveland,
+O., September, 1901. Pages 619 to 624.)
+
+Moki and Navaho Indian Sports. (In Outing, New York, October, 1901.
+Pages 10 to 15.)
+
+Indian Pottery. (In Outing, New York, November, 1901. Pages 154 to 161.)
+
+The Hopi Indians of Arizona. (In Southern Workman, Hampton, Va.,
+December, 1901. Pages 677 to 683.)
+
+The Collecting of Indian Baskets. (In the Literary Collector, New York,
+January, 1902. Pages 103 to 109.)
+
+Some Indian Dishes. (In American Kitchen Magazine, Boston, Mass.,
+January, 1902. Pages 129 to 133 and frontispiece.)
+
+The Indians and their Baskets. (In Four Track News, New York, February,
+1902. Pages 77 to 79.)
+
+Indian Blanketry. (In Outing, New York, March, 1902. Pages 684 to 693.)
+
+LUMMIS, CHARLES F.
+
+Across the Continent. (Scribner's.)
+
+A New Mexico David, and Other Stories. (Scribner's.)
+
+The Land of Poco Tiempo.
+
+The Man that Married the Moon.
+
+All the volumes of "Land of Sunshine," now "Out West," of which he is
+Editor, published in Los Angeles, Cal.
+
+MATTHEWS, WASHINGTON.
+
+Navaho Legends. (The American Folk-Lore Society. In this volume
+Professor F. W. Hodge has a full bibliography on the Navahoes.)
+
+MINDELEFF, COSMOS.
+
+Navaho Houses. (In Seventeenth Annual Report Bureau of American
+Ethnology, 1898. Pages 475 to 517.)
+
+PEPPER, GEORGE H.
+
+The Navaho Indians. An Ethnological Study. (In Southern Workman,
+Hampton, Va., November, 1900. 7 pages.)
+
+The Making of a Navaho Blanket. (In Everybody's Magazine, New York,
+January, 1902. Pages 33 to 43.)
+
+POWELL, J. W.
+
+The Lessons of Folk-Lore. (In American Anthropologist, N. S., Vol. II,
+No. 1, 1900. Pages 1 to 36.)
+
+VOTH, H. R., AND DORSEY, GEORGE A.
+
+The Oraibi Soyal Ceremony. (See Dorsey.)
+
+
+
+
+_AN IMPORTANT NEW BOOK DESCRIBING THE MOST STUPENDOUS SCENE ON THE
+AMERICAN CONTINENT_
+
+_In and Around the Grand Canyon of the Colorado River in Arizona_
+
+By GEORGE WHARTON JAMES
+
+Illustrated with twenty-three full-page plates and seventy-seven
+pictures in the text · 8vo · Cloth · Price, $2.50
+
+[Illustration: CROSSING THE COLORADO TO THE SHINUMO.]
+
+The volume, crowded with pictures of the marvels and beauties of the
+Canyon, is of absorbing interest. Dramatic narratives of hairbreadth
+escapes and thrilling adventures, stories of Indians, their legends and
+customs, and Mr. James's own perilous experiences, give a wonderful
+personal interest in these pages of graphic description of the most
+stupendous natural wonder on the American Continent.--_Philadelphia
+Public Ledger._
+
+A veritable storehouse of wonders.--_Boston Advertiser._
+
+There is a ring of actuality about this book.--_Outing_, New York.
+
+The Grand Canyon has never before received such an exposition either
+with pen or camera.--_Literary World._
+
+He has told his story in so fascinating a manner that one feels almost
+within sight and sound of the great canyon.--_San Francisco Bulletin._
+
+The most thorough description of the Grand Canyon of the Colorado and
+its surroundings to be found anywhere.--_Chicago Tribune._
+
+He has not been content to describe the wonders in his own words, but
+from historical records, from the notes of explorers and discoverers,
+and from the accounts of Indian natives, white hunters, miners, and
+guides, he has quoted freely wherever he could find matter of interest
+and value.--_Argonaut_, San Francisco.
+
+An illustrated work of which too much can scarcely be said in praise.
+The Grand Canyon is one of the world's wonders, and this volume is
+the most thorough and satisfying presentation of its many rugged
+attractions thus far offered.--_San Francisco Chronicle._
+
+There is probably no man in the country who is better qualified for
+the writing of such a book than Professor James.... Too much cannot be
+said in praise of his work.--_Arizona Daily Journal-Miner_, Prescott,
+Arizona.
+
+Will be the standard with reference to the main features--historic,
+scenic, and scientific--of the Great Canyon of the Colorado.... Legend
+and tradition are drawn upon for the dramatic effect and local color,
+so that in many respects the book possesses a charm peculiarly its
+own.... One of the typical books of the great West.--_Brooklyn Standard
+Union._
+
+
+
+
+ CONTENTS
+
+
+ CHAPTER
+
+ I. THE COLORADO RIVER AND ITS CANYONS.
+
+ II. EXPLORATIONS FROM THE TIME OF THE SPANIARDS (1540)
+ TO MAJOR J. W. POWELL (1869).
+
+ III. EXPLORATIONS BY MAJOR J. W. POWELL (1869-72).
+
+ IV. LATER EXPLORATIONS.
+
+ V. FLAGSTAFF, THE SAN FRANCISCO MOUNTAINS, THE CLIFF AND
+ CAVE DWELLINGS, AND THE DEAD VOLCANOES.
+
+ VI. FROM THE SANTA FÉ RAILWAY TO THE CANYON BY STAGE.
+
+ VII. TO THE CANYON BY RAILWAY, AND A FEW PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS
+ TO THE TOURIST.
+
+ VIII. FIRST IMPRESSIONS.
+
+ IX. WHAT DOES ONE SEE?
+
+ X. ON THE RIM.
+
+ XI. THE GRAND VIEW TRAIL.
+
+ XII. THE BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL.
+
+ XIII. TWO DAYS' HUNT FOR A BOAT IN A SIDE GORGE NEAR
+ THE BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL.
+
+ XIV. THE MYSTIC SPRING TRAIL.
+
+ XV. THREE DAYS OF EXPLORING IN TRAIL CANYON WITH THE
+ WRONG COMPANION.
+
+ XVI. MR. W. W. BASS AND HIS CANYON EXPERIENCES.
+
+ XVII. THE SHINUMO AND ITS ANCIENT INHABITANTS.
+
+ XVIII. PEACE SPRINGS TRAIL.
+
+ XIX. LEE'S FERRY AND THE JOURNEY THITHER.
+
+ XX. JOHN D. LEE AND THE MOUNTAIN MEADOW MASSACRE.
+
+ XXI. UP AND DOWN GLEN AND MARBLE CANYONS.
+
+ XXII. THE OLD HOPI TRAIL.
+
+ XXIII. THE TANNER-FRENCH TRAIL.
+
+ XXIV. THE RED CANYON AND OLD TRAILS.
+
+ XXV. GRAND CANYON FOREST RESERVE.
+
+ XXVI. THE TOPOCOBYA TRAIL AND HAVASU (CATARACT) CANYON.
+
+ XXVII. THE HAVASUPAI INDIANS AND THEIR CANYON HOME.
+
+ XXVIII. HAVASU (CATARACT) CANYON AND ITS WATERFALLS AND
+ LIMESTONE CAVES.
+
+ XXIX. AN ADVENTURE IN BEAVER CANYON.
+
+ XXX. THE GEOLOGY OF THE GRAND CANYON.
+
+ XXXI. BOTANY OF THE GRAND CANYON.
+
+ XXXII. RELIGIOUS AND OTHER IMPRESSIONS IN THE GRAND CANYON.
+
+ XXXIII. PHOTOGRAPHING THE GRAND CANYON.
+
+ BIBLIOGRAPHY OF THE GRAND CANYON REGION.
+
+
+
+LITTLE, BROWN, & CO., Publishers
+
+254 WASHINGTON STREET, BOSTON
+
+
+
+
+TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE:
+
+Obvious printer errors have been corrected. Otherwise, the author's
+original spelling, punctuation, hyphenation and use of accents have
+been left intact.
+
+Inconsistencies in the author's use of periods (full stops) with
+illustrations have been resolved. The list of illustrations has been
+modified so that illustrations appear in the correct sequence.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Indians of the Painted Desert
+Region, by George Wharton James
+
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