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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 18:55:51 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 18:55:51 -0700 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/44720-0.txt b/44720-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..46a3fac --- /dev/null +++ b/44720-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2746 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44720 *** + +Transcriber's Note: + + Words printed in italics are noted with underscores: _italics_. + Words printed in small-caps have been converted to ALL-CAPS. + + + + +PACKING AND PORTAGING + + + + + PACKING AND + PORTAGING + + BY + DILLON WALLACE + + Author of "The Lure of the Labrador Wild," "The + Long Labrador Trail," "Saddle and Camp in + the Rockies," "Across the Mexican + Sierras," etc. + + [Illustration: OUTING HANDBOOKS] + + [Illustration] + + NEW YORK + OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY + MCMXII + + + + + COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY + OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY + + All rights reserved + + + + +CONTENTS + + + CHAPTER PAGE + + I. PACKING AND THE OUTFIT 9 + + II. THE CANOE AND ITS EQUIPMENT 12 + + III. CAMP EQUIPMENT FOR THE CANOE TRIP 15 + + IV. PERSONAL EQUIPMENT 23 + + V. FOOD 31 + + VI. THE PORTAGE 38 + + VII. TRAVEL WITH SADDLE AND PACK ANIMALS 51 + + VIII. SADDLE AND PACK EQUIPMENT 56 + + IX. PERSONAL OUTFIT FOR THE SADDLE 64 + + X. ADJUSTING THE PACK 71 + + XI. SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES 77 + + XII. TRAVELING WITHOUT A PACK HORSE 101 + + XIII. AFOOT IN SUMMER 106 + + XIV. WITH SNOWSHOES AND TOBOGGAN 110 + + XV. WITH DOGS AND KOMATIK 123 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + PAGE + + Method of Slinging Load on Aparejo 58, 59 + + Sling for Racking on Crosstree Saddle 74 + + Squaw or Crosstree Hitch 79, 80 + + The Crosstree Diamond Hitch 82, 83 + + United States Army Diamond Hitch 85, 86 + + Lifting Hitch 93, 94 + + Stirrup Hitch 96 + + Saddle Hitch 97 + + + + +PACKING AND PORTAGING + + + + +CHAPTER I + +PACKING AND THE OUTFIT + + +Ordinarily the verb _to pack_ means to stow articles snugly into +receptacles, but in the parlance of the trail it often means to carry +or transport the articles from place to place. The _pack_ in the +language of the trail is the load a man or horse carries. + +Likewise, a _portage_ on a canoe route is a break between navigable +waters, over which canoe and outfit must be carried; or the word may be +used as a verb, and one may say, "I will portage the canoe," meaning "I +will carry the canoe." In the course of the following pages these terms +will doubtless all be used in their various significations. + +Save for the few who are able to employ a retinue of professional +guides and packers to attend to the details of transportation, the +one chief problem that confronts the wilderness traveler is that of +how to reduce the weight of his outfit to the minimum with the least +possible sacrifice of comfort. It is only the veriest tenderfoot that +deliberately endures hardships or discomforts where hardships and +discomforts are unnecessary. Experienced wilderness travelers always +make themselves as comfortable as conditions will permit, and there is +no reason why one who hits the trail for sport, recreation or health +should do otherwise. + +In a description, then, of the methods of packing and transporting +outfits the tenderfoot and even the man whose feet are becoming +calloused may welcome some hints as to the selection of compact, light, +but, at the same time, efficient outfits. These hints on outfitting, +therefore, I shall give, leaving out of consideration the details of +camp making, camp cookery and those phases of woodcraft that have no +direct bearing upon the prime question of packing and transportation on +the trail. + +Let us classify the various methods of wilderness travel under the +following heads: 1. By Canoe; 2. With Saddle and Pack Animals; 3. Afoot +in Summer; 4. On Snowshoes; 5. With Dogs and Sledge. Taking these in +order, and giving our attention first to canoe travel, it will be +found convenient further to subdivide this branch of the subject and +discuss in order: (a) The Canoe and its Equipment; (b) Camp Equipment +for a Canoe Trip; (c) Personal Equipment; (d) Food; (e) The Portage. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +THE CANOE AND ITS EQUIPMENT + + +A sixteen-foot canoe with a width of at least 33 inches and a depth +of at least 12 inches will accommodate two men, an adequate camping +outfit and a full ten weeks' provisions very nicely, and at the same +time not lie too deep in the water. A fifteen-foot canoe, unless it +has a beam of at least 35 inches and a depth of 12 inches or more, is +unsuitable. Three men with their outfit and provisions will require an +eighteen-foot canoe with a width of 35 inches or more and a depth of +no less than 13 inches, or a seventeen-foot canoe with a width of 37 +inches and 13 inches deep. The latter size is lighter by from ten to +fifteen pounds than the former, while the displacement is about equal. + +The best all-around canoe for cruising and hard usage is the +canvas-covered cedar canoe. Both ribs and planking should be of cedar, +and only full length planks should enter into the construction. +Where short planking is used the canoe will sooner or later become +hogged--that is, the ends will sag downward from the middle. + +In Canada the "Peterborough" canoe is more largely used than the +canvas-covered. These are to be had in both basswood and cedar. Cedar +is brittle, while basswood is tough, but the latter absorbs water +more readily than the former and in time will become more or less +waterlogged. + +Cruising canoes should be supplied with a middle thwart for convenient +portaging. Any canoe larger than sixteen feet should have three +thwarts. To lighten weight on the portage, and provide more room +for storing outfit, it is advisable to remove the cane seats with +which canvas canoes are usually provided. This can be readily done +by unscrewing the nuts beneath the gunwale which hold the seats in +position. + +Good strong paddles--sufficiently strong to withstand the heavy strain +to which cruising paddles are put--should be selected. On the portage +they must bear the full weight of the canoe; they will frequently be +utilized in poling up stream against stiff currents; and in running +rapids they will be subjected to rough usage. On extended cruises it is +advisable to carry one spare paddle to take the place of one that may +be rendered useless. + +Experienced canoemen pole up minor rapids. Poles for this purpose +can usually be cut at the point where they are needed, but pole +"shoes"--that is, spikes fitted with ferrules--to fit on the ends of +poles are a necessary adjunct to the outfit where poling is to be done. +Without shoes to hold the pole firmly on the bottom of the stream the +pole may slip and pitch the canoeman overboard. The ferrules should be +punctured with at least two nail holes, by which they may be secured to +the poles, and a few nails should be carried for this purpose. + +A hundred feet or so of half-inch rope should also be provided, to be +used as a tracking line and the various other uses for which rope may +be required. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +CAMP EQUIPMENT FOR A CANOE TRIP + + +Personal likes and prejudices have much to do with the form of tent +chosen. My own preference is for either the "A" or wedge tent, with the +Hudson's Bay model as second choice, for general utility. Either of +these is particularly adapted also to winter travel where the tent must +often be pitched upon the snow. If, however, the tent is only to be +used in summer, and particularly in canoe travel where a light, easily +erected model is desired, the Frazer tent is both ideal for comfort and +is an exceedingly light weight model for portaging. + +Duck or drill tents are altogether too heavy and quite out of date. +They soak water and are an abomination on the portage. The best tent is +one of balloon silk, _tanalite_, or of extra light green waterproofed +tent cloth. The balloon silk tent is very slightly heavier than either +of the others, but is exceedingly durable. For instance, a 7-1/3 × +7-1/3 foot "A" tent of either tanalite or extra light green waterproof +tent cloth, fitted with sod cloth, complete, weighs eight pounds, +while a similar tent of waterproof balloon silk weighs nine pounds. A +Hudson's Bay model, 6 × 9 feet, weighs respectively seven and seven and +one-half pounds. + +These three cloths are not only waterproof and practically rot proof, +but do not soak water, which is a feature for consideration where much +portaging is to be done and camp is moved almost daily. + +Some dealers recommend that customers going into a fly or mosquito +country have the tent door fitted with bobbinet. The idea is good, but +cheese cloth is much cheaper and incomparably better than bobbinet. + +The cheese-cloth door should be made rather full, and divided at the +center from tent peak to ground, with numerous tie strings to bring the +edges tight together when in use, and other strings or tapes on either +side, where it is attached to the tent, to reef or roll and tie it back +out of the way when not needed. + +When purchasing a light-weight tent, see that the dealer supplies a bag +of proper size in which to pack it. + +A pack cloth 6 × 7 feet in size, of brown waterproof canvas weighing +about 3-1/2 pounds, makes an excellent covering for the tent floor +at night. On the portage blankets and odds and ends will be packed +and carried on it. If one end and the two sides of the pack cloth are +fitted with snap buttons it may be converted into a snug sleeping bag +with a pair of blankets folded lengthwise, the bottom and sides of the +blanket secured with blanket safety pins as a lining for the bag. + +My standby for summer camping is a fine all-wool gray blanket 72 × 78 +inches in size and weighing 5-1/2 pounds. This I have found sufficient +even in frosty autumn weather--always, in fact, until the weather grows +cold enough to freeze streams and close them to canoe navigation. Used +as a lining for the improvised pack cloth sleeping bag, this blanket is +quite bedding enough and makes an exceedingly comfortable bed, too. + +A three-quarter axe with a 24- or 28-inch handle makes a mighty good +camp axe. A full axe is heavy and inconvenient to portage and the +lighter axe will serve every purpose in any country at any time. +Personally I favor the Hudson's Bay axe. This may be had fitted either +with a 24-inch or 18-inch handle. In the two-party outfit which we +are discussing there should be two axes, one of which may be fitted +with the shorter handle, but the other should have at least a 24- and +preferably a 28-inch handle. Every axe should have a leather sheath +or scabbard for convenient packing. The so-called pocket axes are too +small to be of practical use. The camper does not wish to miss the +luxury of the big evening camp-fire, and he can never provide for it +with a small hatchet or toy pocket axe. + +Cooking utensils of aluminum alloy are the lightest and best for the +trail. Tin and iron will rust, enamel ware will chip, and unalloyed +aluminum is too soft and bends out of shape. The best sporting goods +dealers carry complete outfits of aluminum alloy. I have used them in +the frigid North and in the tropics, in canoe, sledging, tramping and +horseback journeys, and can recommend them unequivocally, save perhaps +the frying pan. + +The two-man cooking and dining outfit should contain the following +utensils: + + 1 Pot with cover 7 × 6-1/2 inches, capacity three quarts. + 1 Coffee pot 6 × 6-1/8 inches, capacity two quarts. + 1 Steel frying pan 9-7/8 × 2 inches, with folding handle. + 1 Pan 9 × 3 inches, with folding handle, for mixing- and dish-pan. + 2 Plates 8-7/8 inches diameter. + 2 Cups. + 2 Aluminum alloy forks. + 2 Dessert spoons. + 1 Large cooking spoon. + 1 Dish mop. + 2 Dish towels. + +The regular aluminum alloy cup is too small for practical camp use. +There is an aluminum bowl, however, holding one pint, but without a +handle. This is about the right size for a practical cup, and I have a +handle riveted on it and use it as a cup. The top only of the handle +should be attached, that the cups may set one inside the other. The +heat conducting quality of aluminum makes it a question whether or not +enamel cups are not preferable. + +To pack the outfit snugly, set the mixing pan into the frying pan, the +handles of both pans folded, place the plates, one on top of the other, +in the mixing pan, the cooking pot on top of these, and the coffee pot +inside the cooking pot. The cups will fit in the coffee pot. The weight +of this outfit complete is 5-1/2 pounds. + +A waterproof canvas bag of proper size should be provided in which to +pack the utensils. Forks and spoons, wrapped in a dish towel, will fit +nicely in the canvas bag alongside the pots. + +_Waterproof_ canvas is suggested for the bag, not to protect the +utensils but because anything but waterproofed material will absorb +moisture and become watersoaked in rainy weather, adding materially to +the weight of the outfit. + +One of the handiest aids to baking is the aluminum reflecting baker. +An aluminum baker 16 × 18 inches when open, folds to a package 12 × 18 +inches and about two inches thick, and fitted into a waterproof canvas +case weighs, case and all, about four pounds. + +Broilers, fire irons, fire blowers or inspirators, as they are +sometimes called, and many other things that are convenient enough but +quite unnecessary, should never burden the outfit. Even though the +weight of some of them may be insignificant, each additional claptrap +makes one more thing to look after. There are a thousand and one +claptraps, indeed, that outfitters offer, but which do not possess +sufficient advantage to pay for the care and labor of transportation, +and my advice is, leave them out, one and all. + +Outfitters supply small packing bags of proper size to fit, one on top +of another, into larger waterproof canvas bags. These small bags are +made preferably of balloon silk. By using them the whole outfit may be +snugly and safely packed for the portage. + +In one of these small bags keep the general supply of matches, though +each canoeist should carry a separate supply for emergency in his +individual kit. + +In like manner two or three cakes of soap should be packed in another +small bag. Floating soap is less likely to be lost than soap that +sinks. + +A dozen candles will be quite enough. These if packed in a tin box of +proper size will not be broken. + +Repair kits should be provided. A file for sharpening axes and a +whetstone for general use are of the first importance. Include also a +pair of pincers, a ball of stout twine and a few feet of copper wire. A +tool haft or handle with a variety of small tools inside is convenient. +Either a stick of canoe cement, a small supply of marine glue, or +a canoe repair outfit such as canoe manufacturers put up and which +contain canvas, white lead, copper tacks, calor and varnish will be +found a valuable adjunct to the outfit should the canoe become damaged. +This tool and repair equipment should be packed in a strong canvas bag +small enough to drop into the larger nine-inch waterproof bag. + +A small leather medicine case with vials containing, in tabloid form, a +cathartic, an astringent (lead and opium pills are good) and bichloride +of mercury, suffices for the drug supply. Surgical necessities are: +Some antiseptic bandages, a package of linen gauze, a spool of +adhesive plaster and one-eighth pound of absorbent cotton, wrapped in +oiled silk. In addition most campers find it convenient to have in +their personal outfit a pair of small scissors. These are absolutely +necessary if one is to put on a bandage properly. The regular surgical +scissors, the two blades of which hook together at the center, are the +most convenient sort, both to use and to carry, and have the keenest +edge. + +A pair of tweezers takes up but little room and is useful for +extracting splinters or for holding a wad of absorbent cotton in +swabbing out a wound, as cotton will, of course, become septic if held +in the fingers. + +A small scalpel is better than the knife blade for opening up an +infection, as it is more convenient to handle and will make a deep +short incision when desired. These will all be packed in one of the +small balloon silk bags. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +PERSONAL EQUIPMENT + + +Each canoeist should have a personal kit or duffle bag of waterproof +canvas. These may be purchased from outfitters and are usually 36 +inches deep and of 12, 15, 18 or 21 inches diameter. The 12-inch +bag, however, is amply large to accommodate all one needs in the way +of clothing and other personal gear. This, as well as every other +waterproof canvas packing bag mentioned, excepting the cooking kit bag, +should be supplied with a handle on the bottom and one on the side. +These bags not only keep the contents dry, but, as previously stated, +do not absorb moisture to add to the weight, a very essential feature +where every unnecessary pound must be eliminated. I was once capsized +in a rapid and my duffle bag lay half a day in the water before it was +recovered. The contents were perfectly dry. + +One suit of medium weight woolen underclothing in addition to the suit +worn is ample for a short trip. Four extra pairs of thick woolen socks +should be provided--the home-knit kind. An excellent material for +trousers to be worn on the trail is moleskin, though for midsummer wear +a good quality khaki is first rate. Moleskin, however, will withstand +the hardest usage and to my mind is superior to khaki or any other +material where wading is necessary and on cold or rainy days, as it is +very nearly windproof. A good leather belt should be worn, even though +suspenders support the trousers. + +The outer shirt should be of light weight gray or brown flannel and +provided with pockets. A blue flannel shirt of the best quality is all +right. The cheaper qualities of blue crock, and this feature makes +them objectionable. If the outer shirt is too heavy it will be found +cumbersome under the exertion of the portage. + +A large, roomy Pontiac shirt to slip over the outer shirt and use as a +sweater is much preferable to a sweater on the trail. It is windproof +and warm. Do not take a coat--the Pontiac shirt will be both coat and +sweater. A coat is always in the way on a canoe trip and makes the pack +that much heavier. + +A pair of low leather or canvas wading shoes for river work and +larrigans or shoe pacs for ordinary wear, large enough to admit two +pairs of woolen socks, are best suited to canoeing. Heavy, hobnailed +mountaineer shoes or boots are not in place here. + +Heavy German socks, supplied with garter and clasp to hold them in +position, are better than canvas leggings, and protect the legs from +chill at times when wading is necessary in icy waters. + +Any kind of an old slouch hat is suitable. + +Some canoeists take with them a suit of featherweight oilskin. +Personally I have never worn rainproof garments when canoeing. Once +I carried a so-called waterproof coat, but it was not waterproof. It +leaked water like a sieve, and was no protection even from the gentlest +shower. I am inclined, however, to favor featherweight oilskins, though +not while portaging--they would be found too warm--but when paddling in +rainy weather, or to wear on rainy days about camp. + +If the trip is to extend into a black fly or mosquito region, +protection against the insects should be provided. A head net of black +bobbinet that will set down upon the shoulders, with strings to tie +under the arms, is about the best arrangement for the head. Old loose +kid gloves, with the fingers cut off, and farmers' satin elbow sleeves +to fit under the wrist bands of the outer shirt will protect the +wrists and hands. The armlets should be well and tightly sewn upon the +gloves, for black flies are not content to attack where they alight, +and will explore for the slightest opening and discover some undefended +spot. They are, too, a hundred times more vicious than mosquitoes. + +There are many receipts for fly dope, but in a half hour after +application perspiration will eliminate the virtue of most mixtures and +a renewed application must be made. Nessmuk's receipt is perhaps as +good as any, and the formula is as follows: + + Oil of pine tar 3 parts + Castor oil 2 parts + Oil of pennyroyal 1 part + +If when you were a child your father held your nose as an inducement +for you to open your mouth while your mother poured castor oil down +your throat, the odor of the castor oil rising above the odors of the +other ingredients will revive sad memories. Indeed it is claimed for +this mixture that the dead will rise and flee from its compounded odor +as they would flee from eternal torment. It certainly should ward off +such little creatures as black flies and mosquitoes. + +Another effective mixture is: + + Oil of tar 3 parts + Sweet oil 3 parts + Oil of pennyroyal 1 part + Carbolic acid 3 per cent. + +An Indian advised me once to carry a fat salt pork rind in my pocket, +and now and again rub the greasy side upon face and hands. I tried it +and found it nearly as good as the dopes. + +Unless one penetrates, however, far north In Canada during black fly +season these extraordinary precautions will scarcely be necessary. +There Is nowhere In the United States a region where black flies are +really very bad (though perhaps I am drawing invidious comparisons in +making the statement), and even in interior Newfoundland they are, +compared with the farther north, tame and rather inoffensive though +always troublesome. + +The choice of fishing tackle, guns and arms depends largely upon +personal taste. Steel rods of the best quality will serve better than +split bamboo on an extended trip where one, continuously on the portage +trail, is often unable to properly dry the tackle. The steady soaking +of a split bamboo rod for a week is likely to loosen the sections and +injure a fine rod. A waterproof canvas or pantasote case is the right +sort for the rod--leather cases are unpractical on a cruising trip. + +Leather gun cases, too, under like circumstances will become +watersoaked, and under any circumstances they are unnecessarily heavy. +Use canvas cases therefore in consideration for your back. They are +light and in a season of rain immeasurably better than leather. + +Economize, also, on ammunition. Do your target practice before you hit +the trail. A hunter that cannot get his limit of big game with twenty +rifle cartridges is an unsafe individual to turn loose in the woods. + +For spruce grouse, ptarmigan and other small game a ten-inch barrel, +22-caliber single-shot pistol is an excellent arm, provided one has had +some previous experience in its use. It is not a burden on the belt, +and a handful of cartridges in the pocket are not noticed. + +Pack your cartridges in a strong canvas bag, your gun grease and +accessories in another receptacle. + +On the belt also carry a broad-pointed four-inch blade skinning knife +of the ordinary butcher knife shape. This will be your table knife, as +well as cooking and general utility knife. + +In the pocket carry a stout jackknife, a waterproof matchbox, always +kept well filled, and a compass. + +A film camera is more practical for the trail than a plate camera for +many reasons, one of which is weight. Plates are heavy and easily +broken. It is well to have each roll of films put up separately in +a sealed, water-tight tin. Dealers will supply them thus at five +cents extra for each film roll. A waterproof pantasote case, too, is +better than leather, for leather in a long-continued rain will become +watersoaked, as before stated. + +If a plate camera is carried the plates may be packed in a small light +wooden box--a starch box, for instance. The box will protect them under +ordinary circumstances. Film rolls, however, may be carried in a small +canvas bag that will slip into one of the larger waterproof bags. + +My object in outlining outfit is rather to emphasize the possibilities +of selecting a light and efficient outfit that may be easily packed +and transported on the trail, than to evolve an infallible check list; +therefore I shall not attempt to name in detail toilet articles, +tobacco and odds and ends. Take nothing, however, save those things you +will surely find occasion to use, unless I may suggest an extra pipe, +should your pipe be lost. A small balloon silk bag will hold them, +together with a sewing case containing needles, thread, patches and +some safety pins. Another will hold the hand towels and hand soap in +daily use, while an extra hand towel may be stowed in your duffle bag. + +In concluding this chapter it may be pertinent to say that the novice +on the trail is pretty certain to burden himself with many things he +will seldom or never use. Take your outfitter into your confidence. +Tell him what sort of a trip you contemplate and he will advise you. +First-class outfitters are usually practical out-of-door men and +camping experts. They have made an extended study of the subject, for +it is part of their business to do so. Therefore, in selecting outfit, +it is both safe and wise to rely upon the advice of any responsible +outfitter. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +FOOD + + +The true wilderness voyager is willing to endure some discomforts on +the trail, to work hard and submit to black flies and other pests, but +as a reward he usually demands satisfying meals. There is, indeed, no +reason for him to deny himself a variety and a plenty, unless his trip +is to extend into months. Weight on the portage trail is always the +consideration that cuts down the ration. Packing on one's back a ration +to be used two or three months hence is discouraging. + +I have evolved a two-week food supply for two men, based upon the +United States army ration, varied as the result of my own experiences +have dictated. It offers not only great variety, but is an exceedingly +bountiful ration even for hungry men. Personal taste will suggest some +eliminations or substitutions that may be made without material loss +or change in weight. If there is certainty of catching fish or killing +game, or if opportunity offers for purchasing fresh supplies along +the trail, reductions in quantity may be made accordingly. For each +additional man, or for any period beyond two weeks, a proportionate +increase in quantity may be made. + + Bacon, 6 pounds. + Salt fat pork, 2 pounds. + Ham or canned meats, 5 pounds. + "Truegg" (egg powder), 1 pound (equals 4 dozen eggs.) + "Trucream" (milk powder), 1-1/2 pounds. + "Crisco," 3 pounds, (2 cans). + Fresh bread, 2 pounds. + Flour, 12 pounds. + Corn meal (yellow), 1 pound. + Rolled oats, 1 pound. + Rice, 1 pound. + Baking powder, 1/2 pound. + Potatoes (Dehydrated) riced, 2 pounds (equals 14 lbs. fresh potatoes). + Potatoes (Dehydrated) sliced, 1 pound (equals 7 lbs. fresh potatoes). + Carrots (Dehydrated), 1/4 pound (equals 3 lbs. fresh carrots). + Onions (Dehydrated), 1/4 pound (equals 3-3/4 lbs. fresh onions). + Cranberries (Dehydrated), 1/4 pound (equals 2-1/2 qts. fresh fruit). + Beans, 2 pounds. + Green peas (Dehydrated), 1/4 pound (equals 1-1/4 lbs. fresh peas). + Coffee (ground), 2 pounds. + Tea, 1/2 pound. + Cocoa, 1/2 pound. + Sugar (granulated), 5 pounds. + Preserves, 1 pound. + Lemons, 1/2 dozen. + Lime tablets, 1/2 pound. + Prunes (stoned), 1 pound. + Raisins, 1 pound. + Salt, 1 pound. + Pepper, 1/4 ounce. + +This gives each man a nominal ration of 14-1/2 pounds a week, or about +two pounds a day. In reality, however, it is more bountiful than the +summer garrison ration and far more liberal than the summer marching +ration of the army. This is brought about by the pretty general +elimination of water, largely through the substitution of dehydrated +vegetables and fruits for fresh and canned goods. The dehydrated +products designated are in every particular equal to fresh products and +far superior to canned goods. Dehydrated vegetables possess all the +qualities, in fact, of fresh vegetables, with only the large percentage +of water removed. Water is introduced restoring them to original form +usually by boiling. No chemical is used as a preservative as is the +case with all dried vegetables put up by foreign manufacturers. + +It will be noticed that butter has been omitted and that "Crisco" has +been introduced in the place of lard and to be used in cooking instead +of butter. Crisco is a product of edible vegetable oils. It has the +appearance of lard but can be heated to a much higher temperature +without burning, is fully equal to butter when used as shortening, and +dough bread, fish or other articles of food fried in it will not absorb +it so readily as they will lard, nor will it transmit the flavor of +one food to another. For example, fish may be fried in Crisco, and +dough bread or anything else fried in the same Crisco will have not the +slightest flavor of fish. It will keep fresh and sweet under conditions +that turn lard and butter rancid. Butter quickly becomes strong, and +the heat of the sun keeps it in an oily, unpalatable condition, even +when packed in air-tight tins. The most lavish user of butter will +discover that it is no hardship to go without it when in camp. Crisco, +put up in handy, friction-top cans, can be purchased from nearly any +grocer. + +Coffee should be carried in friction-top tins. On extended trips +coffee is too bulky to carry save as a special treat. A pound of tea +will go as far as many pounds of coffee; therefore on trips extending +beyond three or four weeks the proportion of tea should be increased +and that of coffee diminished. On short trips, however, such as we are +discussing, there is no reason and most Americans usually prefer it +even when in camp. + +Each article of food should have its individual bag, to fit into one +of the larger waterproof canvas bags described, though the bacon and +fat pork, each piece wrapped in paraffin (waxed) paper, may be packed +in one bag. Paraffin paper will protect other packages in the bag from +grease. Several articles of small bulk and weight such as dehydrated +carrots, onions, cranberries and green peas each in its original +package or a small muslin bag suitable in size may be carried in a +single balloon silk bag. The small bags containing such articles as are +not in daily and frequent use should be stowed in the bottoms of the +canvas bags, while those in constant demand should be at the top where +they can be had without unpacking the entire bag. Every package or bag +should be plainly labeled with the nature of its contents. In labeling +them use ink, as pencil marks are too easily obliterated. Where a party +is composed of a sufficient number of people to make it worth while the +party ration for each day may be weighed out and packed in a separate +receptacle, thus making seven food packages for each week. This, +however, would be obviously unpractical where there are less than eight +or ten members of the party. + +No glass or crockeryware should be used, not only because of its +liability to break, but because of its unnecessary weight. + +A good way to carry the tin of baking powder is to sink it into the +sack of flour. The flour will protect it and preclude the possibility +of the cover coming off and the contents spilling out. Do not carry +prepared or self-raising flour on the trail. For many reasons it is +unpractical for trail use, though perhaps most excellent in the +kitchen at home. + +Throughout I have accentuated the advisability of waterproof covers for +everything. Every ounce of water absorbed by tent, bags, or package +covers, adds to the tedium of the trail by so much unnecessary weight. +When flour carried in an ordinary sack Is exposed to rain a paste +will form next the cloth, and presently harden into a crust that will +protect the bulk of flour from injury. But the flour used up in the +process of crust forming is a decided waste, and the paste, retaining a +degree of moisture, increases weight. + +I have suggested balloon silk for the small food bags to fit into the +larger waterproofed canvas bags, not only because it does not absorb +moisture, but because there will be no possibility of the contents +sifting through the cloth. If these or the cloth from which to make +them cannot be readily obtained, closely woven muslin will do. + +Should the canoeist desire to make his own bags and should he not find +it convenient to purchase waterproofed canvas, the ordinary canvas +which he will use may be waterproofed by the following process: + +In two gallons of boiling water dissolve three and one-half ounces of +alum. Rain water is best, though any soft water will do; but it _must +be soft water_ to obtain the best results. In another vessel dissolve +four ounces of sugar of lead in two gallons of soft water. Unite the +solutions when they have cleared by pouring into another vessel No. 1 +first, then No. 2. Let the solution stand over night, decant it into +a tub, free of any sediment that may have settled, and it is ready +for the canvas. The cloth should be put into the solution, thoroughly +saturated with it and then lightly wrung out, and hung up to dry. This +treatment will render canvas to a considerable extent, though not +completely, waterproof. + +Muslin for the smaller food bags may be waterproofed by painting it +with a saturate solution of turpentine and paraffin. + +Canned goods should be packed snugly in canvas bags, with cans on end, +that the sides, not the corners or edges, will rest against the back in +portaging. + +Camp chests in which to store food or other articles are carried by +some canoeists, but they add considerable weight to the outfit. The +best and most serviceable camp chest is one of indestructible fiber. +One with an inside measurement of 18 × 24 × 12 inches weighs twenty +pounds. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +THE PORTAGE + + +There are several types of pack harness offered by outfitters, but +it is generally conceded that the best method of carrying heavy or +medium-weight packs is with the tump line. In tump line carrying +the pack is supported by a broad band of leather passed across the +head--high up on the forehead--thus throwing the weight upon the strong +muscles of the neck, with no shoulder straps or other support. + +Canadian voyageurs, Hudson's Bay Company packers and Indians use the +tump line to the exclusion of all shoulder-carrying devices. Indeed, by +no other method would it be possible for them to transport upon their +backs through a rough country the heavy burdens which they are called +upon to carry. Experienced packers with the tump line will sometimes +portage loads of upwards of four hundred pounds. In tests of skill I +have seen a man carry in a single load the contents of three barrels of +flour--588 pounds. + +The tump line consists of a broad piece of leather some eighteen or +twenty inches in length (known as the head strap or headpiece), with a +leather thong usually about seven feet in length attached to each end, +the total length from the tip end of one thong to the tip end of the +other thong averaging about sixteen feet. + +Sometimes the two thongs are sewn to the headpiece, and again the +line is a single strip of leather, broadened in the center to form +the headpiece. The best tump lines, however, have the head strap as +a separate piece with a buckle at each end by which the thongs are +attached. This arrangement admits of adjustment, if necessary, to suit +the individual after the pack has been made up. + +There is a knack in tump line carrying, but the following directions +for making up various packs will give the novice sufficient insight, +with a little experience, to enable him to acquire the art. + +When the pack is to be made up wholly of bags, lay the tump line on +the ground with the thongs parallel to each other and from sixteen +to twenty inches apart, depending upon the length of the bags to be +packed. Place the bags across the thongs, one bag upon another, taking +care that the thongs are not so near the ends of the bags as to render +them liable to slip off when the pack is tied. Now lift the head strap +above the top bag and secure the pack by drawing the loose end of each +thong in turn tight around the bags and knotting it a few inches below +the buckle that attaches its other end to the headpiece. + +When a pack cloth is to be used, spread the pack cloth upon the thongs +of the tump line, stretched upon the ground in the manner above +described, and in the center of the pack cloth lay folded blankets and +other articles to be packed, making the pile about two feet long, and +taking care that hard substances are in the center, with blankets and +soft things outside. Now turn the sides of the pack cloth over the pack +and fold over the ends. If a bag is to be included, lay it upon the +pack after the cloth has been folded, and secure the whole as in the +former case. + +Another method of making up a pack with the pack cloth, common among +Canadian voyageurs, is as follows: Spread the cloth upon the ground, +and lay the tump line across it, the headpiece near one end and the +thongs a foot from the sides. Fold the sides of the cloth inward over +each thong. Now build up the pack in a neat pile about two feet long on +the folded cloth, taking care as before that hard things are placed in +the middle. Fold the end of the pack cloth with protruding thongs over +the pack, take a half turn with the loose end of a thong around the +other end near the headpiece, draw it tight until the end is closely +puckered, then knot it and draw up the other thong and secure it in +like manner. Now bring the free ends of the tump line to center of +pack, on top, cross them and pass them around middle of pack and tie. + +The knack of comfortable tump line carrying once the neck muscles have +become developed and hardened to the work is in properly balancing the +pack. With the headpiece resting high up upon the forehead the pack +should hang with its bottom no lower than the hips. Neither should it +be too high. A little experimenting will teach just where the proper +balance is to be found. If it is too high, lengthen the line, or if too +low shorten it by means of the buckles which attach the thongs to the +headpiece. + +Experienced packers pile additional bags or bundles on top of the +pack, the uppermost bundle standing higher than the head. In my own +experience I have found that an additional bag thus placed upon the +pack and resting against the back of my neck helped balance the load. +My favorite bag for this purpose is a forty or fifty pound bag of +flour, sometimes surmounted by a lighter bundle which rested partly +upon the flour and partly upon my head. + +The tenderfoot will be quite content to limit his early loads to sixty +or seventy pounds, and even then his first portages will not be what +he can conscientiously term experiences of unalloyed joy. Gradually, +however, he will learn the knack of tump packing and at the end of a +couple of weeks of daily experience will find himself able to negotiate +a load of one hundred pounds with some ease. + +All the various types of pack harness are supplied with straps by which +the pack is secured and loops through which to slip the arms, the pack +being carried from the shoulders instead of the head. With this sort +of a pack, as with the tump line, care should be given to the proper +adjustment, with the bottom of the pack no lower than the hips. Fifty +pounds is about as heavy a load as one can comfortably carry from the +shoulders. + +Outfitters sometimes attach a headpiece to their pack harness--that +is to say the harness is provided with both shoulder loops and tump +line head strap. The object is to secure a division of weight between +shoulders and head. This is a method employed by Eskimos when hunting +without dogs. The Eskimo hunter binds his pack with sealskin thongs, +and manipulates a single thong in such a manner as not only to secure +the pack but to form arm loops and headpiece as well. + +No matter what type of shoulder harness is employed, a breast strap +must be used to fasten together the arm loops in front or the loops +will have a continual tendency to slip backward and off the shoulders. +This breast strap fastens the packer so securely to his pack that +should he slip, as is sometimes likely, the pack will carry him down +with it and the probability of injury is multiplied many times. This +alone is a very decided objection to all forms of pack harness. + +If one slips with a tump line, on the contrary, a slight twist of the +head will disengage and free one from the pack; and if one is hunting +the tump pack may readily be dropped at a moment's notice, should game +be sighted. + +Let me therefore urge the adoption of the tump line for all portage +work where fifty pounds or more must be transported. No experienced +packer will use harness. Harness packing is indeed indicative of the +tenderfoot who has never learned how, unless on long cross country +tramps with light loads. + +But on a canoe trip, if one would make progress, big loads must be +resorted to. For instance, if the canoeist has a two mile portage to +negotiate and one hundred pounds of duffle he has but two miles to walk +if he carries all his duffle at once, but if he makes two loads of it +he must walk six miles. With the hundred pound load the portage may +easily be covered in one hour. With fifty pound loads three hours will +be consumed, for there will be time lost in making up the second pack. + +Axes, guns and extra paddles may be thrust under the thongs of the tump +line, or carried in the hand. Never portage a rifle with a cartridge +in the chamber, and never portage a loaded shotgun. To disregard this +advice will be to take an unnecessary and foolhardy risk. + +Save in a rather stiff breeze, one man can carry a canoe weighing less +than one hundred pounds nearly as easily as two can carry it. There is +one best way of doing everything, and the best and most practical way +to carry a canoe is the Indian's way. + +Tie one end of a stout string or thong securely to the middle thwart +close to the gunwale, and the other end to the same thwart close to +the opposite gunwale with the string stretched taut from end to end +of the thwart and on top of it. Slip the blades of two paddles, lying +side by side, under the string, the paddle handles lying on the forward +thwart. With the handles as close together as they will lie, bind them +with a piece of rope or thong to the center of the forward thwart. + +Spread the blades upon the middle thwart sufficiently wide apart to +admit your head between them. Take a position on the left side of the +canoe facing the stern. Just forward of the middle thwart grasp the +gunwale on the opposite or right side of the canoe in your left hand +and the gunwale on the near or left side in your right hand, and, +lifting the canoe over your head, let the flat side of the paddles +directly forward of the middle thwart rest upon the shoulders, your +head between them. It will be found that though you faced the stern in +lifting the canoe you are now facing the bow, and with the bow slightly +elevated the canoe can be carried with ease and a view of the trail +ahead will not be shut out. + +Should the flat paddle blades resting upon the shoulders be found +uncomfortable, as they doubtless will at the end of the first two +or three hundred yards, a Pontiac shirt or sweater will serve as a +protecting pad. + +Outfitters offer for sale yokes, pneumatic pads and contrivances of +various sorts as protections for the shoulders, but these contrivances +elevate the canoe from two to four inches above the shoulders and this +increases the difficulty of steadying it on rough trail. The sweater +or Pontiac shirt eases the cutting effect of the paddles just as well +as any of the special portaging pads, and the canoe can be handled more +easily with it. Besides it makes one less thing to look after. + +In a strong breeze it is often difficult for one man to handle a canoe, +for the wind striking it on the side will turn the portager around and +he will find it impossible to keep his course in spite of his best +efforts. If the portage is a short one--two or three hundred yards--the +canoe may be carried very well, one man with the bow the other with the +stern upon a shoulder, the canoe on its side with the bottom next the +portagers' heads, that they may easily grasp the gunwale in one hand +and steady the canoe with the other. + +This position will soon be found exceedingly tiresome, and on portages +exceeding two or three hundred yards the paddles should be arranged +with the blades on the after thwart and the handles lashed to the +center of the middle thwart. With this arrangement one man carries +exactly as when portaging the canoe alone, save that he stands under +the canoe just forward of the after thwart instead of the middle +thwart, while the other man carries the bow upon one shoulder. This is +the easiest method of two-man portaging of which I know. + +Many odds and ends may be tucked in the canoe on the portage--fishing +rods, for example, in cases, with one end stuck in the bow and the +other end tied to the forward thwart. + +Should a canvas canoe become punctured it may be repaired by one of the +following methods: + +If a stick of canoe cement is in the outfit, heat the cement with a +match and smear it over the puncture. + +Should the outfit contain a canoe repair kit, cut a patch of canvas +somewhat larger than the puncture, apply a coat of white lead to the +puncture and over a marginal space as large as the canvas patch, press +the patch firmly and evenly upon the white lead and tack it down with +copper tacks. To this apply calor, and when dry complete the repairs +with a coat of varnish. + +Should marine glue be used, lay a sheet of it over the puncture, heat +the bottom of a cup or some other smooth metal utensil and rub it over +the glue until the glue melts sufficiently to fill the puncture. + +In a region where spruce gum can be had, melt a quantity of gum in a +frying pan with sufficient grease to take from the gum its brittle +quality when cold. While hot pour the gum upon the rupture, letting it +run well into the opening and smearing it smoothly over the outside. + +"Peterborough" canoes are also easily repaired with marine glue or gum. + +In loading the canoe place the heavier bags in the bottom and middle +of the canoe, taking care so to distribute the weight that when fully +loaded the canoe will lie on an even keel. Keep the load always as low +down as possible. Every bag rising above the gunwales offers resistance +to the wind, and tends to make the load topheavy. When but one man +occupies a canoe, however, sufficient weight should be carried forward +to counterbalance his weight in the stern. + +Lash everything fast, particularly in rough water or when running +rapids. It does not pay to take chances. With a companion I was once +turned over in a rapid in an unexplored, sparsely timbered wilderness +several hundred miles from the nearest base of supplies--a Hudson's +Bay trading post. Nearly all our food was lost, as well as guns, axes, +cooking utensils and many other necessities of travel. The temperature +stood close to zero, snow covered the ground and during the greater +part of the three weeks occupied in reaching the post we had to dig +driftwood from under the snow, and our ingenuity was taxed at times to +the utmost in efforts to protect ourselves from the elements and travel +with any degree of comfort. Nothing worse than an unpleasant ducking in +icy waters would have resulted from our accident had we observed the +rule of ordinary caution and lashed our outfit to the thwarts. + +One end of a rope tied to the forward thwart, the other end threaded +through bag handles or pack lashings and secured to the after thwart, +will do the trick. A short strap, one end attached to a thwart, the +other end supplied with a snap to fasten on rifle or shotgun cases, is +a good way to secure the guns and still have them readily accessible. + +If you would make speed be smart in unloading the canoe and making up +your packs on the portage, and equally smart in reloading the canoe. +Delays in loading, unloading and making up packs are the chief causes +of slow progress. + +When it is found necessary to "track," give the rear end of the +tracking line a turn around the forward thwart, on the land side of +the canoe, then pass the end back and secure it to the middle thwart. +This distributes the strain between the thwarts. While one man at the +farther end of the line tows the canoe, the other man with a pole may +walk upon the bank, and keep the canoe clear of snags, if the water is +deep. Should the water be shallow it will usually be found necessary +for him to wade and guide the bow through open channels. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +TRAVEL WITH SADDLE AND PACK ANIMALS + + +Under this head we shall consider: (1) Saddles and pack equipment; (2) +Animals best adapted to pack work; (3) Outfit and provisions and how to +pack them; (4) How to throw some practical hitches; (5) Equipment of +the traveler who has no pack animal and whose saddle horse is required +to transport both rider and equipment. + +Comfort on the trail depends to a very large degree upon the animals of +the outfit. A mean horse is an abomination, and a horse may be mean in +many respects. A bucking horse, a horse that shies at stumps and other +objects or at every moving thing, or one that is frightened by sudden +and unexpected sounds is not only an uncomfortable but unsafe animal +to ride upon rugged mountain trails; and a horse that will not stand +without hitching, or one that is hard to catch when hobbled and turned +loose, will cause no end of trouble. + +In choosing a horse, then, avoid so far as possible one with these +tendencies, and also observe the manner in which he handles his feet. +He should not be subject to stumbling. He should be sure-footed, steady +and reliable, to qualify him for work on dangerous trails; this is of +the first importance. A horse that does not keep his eyes on the trail +and select his footing with care is wholly unsuited to mountain work. +He should be gunwise. A gunwise horse will not be easily frightened by +sudden and unexpected noises. + +Whether intended for mountain or plains work, the horse should be a +good camp animal--that is, one that will not wander far from camp. +It is more than aggravating to find upon arising in the morning that +your horse has disappeared and one always feels that time consumed +in searching for a roving horse is time worse than wasted. Of course +this tendency of an animal can be forestalled by picketing him, but a +picketed horse unless forage be particularly good will not do well, for +it rarely happens in these days of sheep-ravaged ranges that an animal +can find sufficient food to meet his requirements within the limited +length of a picket rope. + +Some horses need much persuasion before they can be induced to ford +streams, and I have had them lose their nerve and decline the descent +of precipitous trails. An animal possessing this trait of timidity +is not suited to trail work, for he is likely to cause trouble at a +critical moment. + +Some horses are good foragers, others are not. A poor forager will +become leg weary and break down much more quickly than the animal that +takes advantage of every opportunity to graze or browse. A horse just +in from the open range should be round and full-bellied. This is an +indication that he is a good feeder. Generally speaking the chunky +horse is the one best adapted to arduous trail work because he usually +possesses greater powers of endurance than the longer, lankier type. + +All of the qualifications above enumerated should be borne in mind in +selecting animals, whether for saddle or pack use. And of course the +animals should be as sound as possible. One should never start upon a +journey with an animal that is lame or has cinch sores or galled back. + +When mountain trails are to be negotiated a saddle horse weighing from +nine hundred to a thousand pounds will be found better adapted to the +work than a larger animal. Too large a horse is liable to be clumsy on +the trail, while too light a horse will of course tire under a heavy +rider. A small horse, as a rule, is better able to forage a living than +a large horse, and for this reason stands up better with a moderate +load on long, continuous journeys. Ponies weighing from eight hundred +to eight hundred and fifty pounds will pack one hundred and fifty +pounds easily, and ponies of this size make much better pack animals +than larger ones. + +While for general saddle work I prefer a horse, a mule is surer footed +and therefore preferable on precipitous, narrow mountain trails. In +the Sierra Madres of Mexico I rode a mule over trails where I would +scarcely have trusted a horse. Good saddle mules, however, are scarce. +I never saw a really good saddle-broke mule north of Mexico, though +they are doubtless to be had. Mules have greater powers of endurance +than horses, and for many other reasons are superior as pack animals. +The chief objection to a mule is his timidity upon marshy trails. His +feet are much smaller than those of a horse, he mires easily, and he +is fully aware of the fact. A good mule, nevertheless, is the one best +all-around pack animal. + +Burros are good where forage is scarce, but they are slow. When the +burro decides that he has done a day's work he stops, and that is the +end of it. He will not consult you, and he will not take your advice. +When he fully decides that he will go no farther you may as well unpack +and make camp with as good grace as you can muster, and keep your +temper. I believe that burros have a well-organized labor union and +they will not do one stroke of work beyond the limit prescribed by +their organization. But one must sometimes resort to them in desert +travel. They will pick their living and thrive on sage brush wastes +where other animals would die, and their ability to go long without +water is truly remarkable. On rough mountain trails they are even more +sure-footed if possible than mules, but like the mule it is difficult +to force them over marshes or into rivers when fording is necessary. + +In horse-raising localities in the West very good horses can be had +at anywhere from thirty to seventy-five dollars. The usual rate for +horse rental is one dollar to one dollar and a half a day, and it is +therefore cheaper, when the journey is to extend to a month or more, to +purchase the animals outright and sell them when you are finished with +them for what they will bring. Rented animals are generally animals +of low value and sometimes not very efficient, and in the course of +a month one pays in rental a good share of the value of the horse. +The risk is no greater, for if a rented horse is injured while in a +traveler's possession, the owner holds him who has rented the animal +responsible for the damage. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +SADDLE AND PACK EQUIPMENT + + +The riding saddle should be a double cinch, horn saddle, with +wool-lined skirts and of ample weight to hold its position. My own is +a regular stock saddle weighing thirty-five pounds, though for all +ordinary use a twenty-five- or thirty-pound saddle will do just as well. + +I prescribe the horn saddle because of its convenience. One may sling +upon it a camera, binoculars or other articles in frequent demand, +and when it becomes necessary to lead a pack pony the lead rope +may be attached to it. For this latter purpose the horn is indeed +indispensable. + +In the light of personal experience with both single and double cinch +saddles, I recommend the latter unhesitatingly, particularly for +mountain work. In steep ascents or descents it will not slide, while a +single cinch saddle is certain to do so no matter how tightly cinched, +and this shifting will sooner or later gall the horse's back. In +Mexico the single cinch saddle is almost universally used, but who ever +saw a Mexican's horse that was free from saddle sores? The forward +cinch should preferably be a hair cinch, though the ordinary webbed +sort, both forward and rear, does well enough. + +The saddle blanket should be a thick, good quality wool blanket. In +Arizona Navajo saddle blankets are popular, and they are undoubtedly +the best when obtainable. A hair saddle pad or corona, shaped to the +animal's back and used in connection with the blanket, is a pretty good +insurance against galling, and preferable to the felt pad, for it is +cooler. + +A leather boot for rifle, and saddle bags for toilet articles, note +books and odds and ends, bridle, halter rope, a pair of cowboy spurs +with large blunt rowels, and a quirt to tickle delinquent pack horses +will be needed. The rifle boot has two sling straps. The usual method +of carrying it is to insert it between the stirrup leathers on the +near side, drop the sling strap at the top of the boot over the saddle +pommel and buckle the sling strap at the bottom of the boot into the +rear latigo ring. By detaching the latter sling from the boot before +buckling it to the ring, the boot may be removed from or attached to +the saddle by simply lifting the forward sling strap over the pommel, +without unbuckling. In case the sling strap at the top of the boot be +placed too far down, it should be shifted higher up and secured to the +boot with a leather loop which may be riveted to the boot. + +[Illustration: METHOD OF SLINGING LOAD ON APAREJO + +(FIG. 1.) Rope is doubled and loop A thrown over horse's back to off +side. + +N. B.--In this and the following diagrams the pack is represented as +spread out flat and viewed from above.] + +For the pack animals the ordinary cross-tree or sawbuck pack saddle is +the most practical pack saddle for all-around use, though the aparejo, +used by the army and generally throughout Mexico, is superior to the +sawbuck when unwieldy packages of irregular size and shape are to be +transported. Such packages must frequently be transported by army +trains and they are the rule rather than the exception in Mexico, where +freighting throughout wide regions must be done wholly on the backs of +animals. + +[Illustration: (FIG. 2.) Packs are now lifted into place and off packer +brings loop A up around off side pack to top of load. Near packer +passes end B through loop A and ties ends B and C together with square +knot. Balance or "break" the packs and load is ready for hitch.] + +The aparejo is of Arabian origin, and the Spaniards, who adopted it +from the Moors, introduced it into Mexico. In Mexico there are two +types of the aparejo in common use. One made usually of the fiber of +_henequen_, which is woven into pockets which are stuffed with grass, +to form the pads, is used on donkeys in comparatively light packing; +in the other type the pad casing is made of Mexican tanned leather +instead of _henequen_ matting but also stuffed with grass. This is used +in heavier packing with mules, in transporting machinery and supplies +to mines and merchandise to inland settlements. + +The cross-tree or sawbuck, however, is used almost exclusively in +the United States by forest rangers, cowboys, prospectors and pack +travelers generally, and it is to this type of pack saddle that we +shall direct our attention chiefly. It may be interesting to note +that this is a very ancient type of pack saddle, of Asiatic origin. +It consists of two saddle boards connected near each end--front and +rear--by two cross-pieces, the pommel and cantle forming a miniature +sawbuck, while the saddle boards are similar in shape to the McClellan +saddle tree. This is fitted with breeching, quarter straps, breast +strap, latigos and cinch. As in the case of the riding saddle, the +sawbuck pack saddle should be supplied with the double cinch. Care +should be taken that the saddle fits the animal for which intended. A +saddle either too wide or too narrow will be certain to cause a sore +back. + +Each pack saddle should be accompanied by a heavy woolen saddle +blanket, which should be folded into three or four thicknesses, for +here even greater protection is necessary than with the riding saddle, +for the animal is to carry a dead weight. + +The preferable method of carrying supplies with the sawbuck pack saddle +is with kyacks, basket panniers or the _alforjas_, though with sling +and lash ropes any sort of a bundle may be slung upon it. + +When they can be obtained, kyacks of indestructible fiber stand first +for preference. These are usually from twenty-two to twenty-four inches +wide, seventeen or eighteen inches high and about nine inches deep, and +are fitted with heavy leather loops for slinging on the saddle. Unless +the horse is a large one, the narrower, or twenty-two inch, should be +selected. + +Basket panniers of similar size are lighter but not so well adapted to +hard usage, and are more expensive. + +The alforjas is constructed of heavy duck and leather, and of the same +dimensions as the kyack. They are much cheaper than either panniers or +kyacks, and are therefore more commonly used. Any outfitter can supply +them. They are slung upon the saddle in the same manner as kyacks. A +pair of the type decided upon will be required for each animal. + +The next requirement is a half-inch lash rope. This should be at least +thirty-three, but preferably forty feet in length. In some respects a +cotton rope is preferable to one of hemp, though the latter is more +commonly used, and regulations prescribe it for army pack trains. + +A good broad cinch should be provided, fitted with a ring on one end to +which is attached the lash or lair rope and a cinch hook on the other +end. + +There should be a pair of hobbles for each animal, and a blind to put +upon obstreperous pack animals when slinging and lashing the load. +These may be purchased throughout the West at almost any village store. +It is well also to carry a bell, which should always be strapped around +the neck of one of the horses when the animals are hobbled and turned +loose to graze. + +It will sometimes be necessary to picket one of the animals, and for +this purpose fifty or sixty feet of half or five-eighth inch rope will +be required. Also sufficient leading rope should be provided for each +pack animal, and a halter rope for the saddle horse. A lariat carried +upon the saddle pommel will be found useful in a dozen ways, and may be +utilized for picketing horses. + +All horses should be "slick" shod; that is, shod with uncalked shoes. +The shoes should be of soft iron, not so light as to render them liable +to bend before they are worn out, and they should not extend beyond the +hoof at side or rear. Some extra shoes of proper size for each animal, +a horseshoer's nippers, rasp, hammer and some nails should be included +in the equipment. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +PERSONAL OUTFIT FOR THE SADDLE + + +The outfit recommended in Chapters III and IV in discussing camp and +personal equipment for canoe trips is, with the modifications and +additions which we shall now consider, equally well adapted to saddle +and pack horse travel. As previously stated, our object is to describe +methods of packing, rather than to formulate an infallible check list. +With this in view an efficient outfit that may be easily packed and +transported is outlined, in a general way, and therefore such articles +of outfit mentioned in previous chapters as are obviously useful only +in canoe travel will not be referred to in this connection. + +The wedge, the Hudson Bay, the forest ranger and the lean-to tent are +all good models for pack animal travel, and easily erected. Whichever +type is chosen, if made of any one of the light-weight materials +described, will be found both satisfactory and easily packed. For +example, a forest ranger's tent eight feet deep and eight feet wide +weighs less than four pounds, while a lean-to with approximately the +same floor space weighs about three pounds. In the more arid regions of +the West one rarely finds it necessary to pitch a tent, though it is +handy to have one along and well worth carrying, particularly should it +be desired to remain more than one night at any point. + +During the summer, save in high altitudes, one pair of light woolen +blankets will be found ample bedding. For all probable conditions of +weather, however, in tent or in the open, the sleeping bag is the most +convenient and at the same time the most comfortable camp bed yet +devised, and it is so easily carried on the pack horse that I advise +its adoption. One made of close-woven waterproofed canvas is the most +thoroughly practical bag for general use. This should be lined with +two pairs of light blankets, that four thicknesses of blanket may +be available for covering. The blankets should be so arranged that +they may be taken out and the bag turned for airing. One may adapt +such a bag to the temperature, using as many or as few thicknesses of +blanket as desired, depending upon the number with which the bag is +lined. I recently saw a bag lined with four thicknesses of llama wool +duffel (providing two thicknesses for cover) that weighed but eight +pounds and furnished ample protection for any weather down to a zero +temperature. + +Pack cloths or light tarpaulins 6 × 7 feet, used to cover and protect +the packs, will be needed for each pack animal, and at night the bed +may be spread upon them. Saddle bags make excellent pillows. + +In traveling in an arid region canteens are a necessity. There should +be one large one for each traveler to be carried on the pack horse, and +a small one swung upon the saddle horn will be found convenient for +ready use. + +A folding water bucket of waterproofed canvas should also be included +in the outfit. + +The aluminum reflecting baker which has been described is far +preferable to the Dutch oven--a heavy iron kettle with iron cover--not +only because it weighs far less and is much more easily packed, but +because it is more practical. Westerners are wedded to the Dutch oven, +and this reference is merely made as a suggestion in case the question +of choice between the two should arise. + +If kyacks or alforjas are used the large water-proofed canvas duffle +bags and food bags will not be required. The smaller balloon silk +or musline food bags, however, will be found fully as convenient in +packing in the pack horse kyack as in the canvas bags on the canoe +trip. + +Each rider should be provided with either a saddle slicker or a poncho, +which when not in use may be rolled and secured to the saddle directly +behind the seat by means of tie strings attached to the saddle. A +poncho is preferable to a slicker, because of the many uses to which it +may be put. + +On saddle journeys in cold, windy weather a wind-proof canvas coat +or a large, roomy buckskin shirt is a comfort. If a buckskin shirt +is adapted, have it made plain without fringe or frill. Wilderness +dwellers formerly fringed their buckskin shirts, not alone for +ornament, but to facilitate the drying of the garment when wet. In +the fringed shirt water, instead of settling around the bottom of the +shirt, around the yoke and the seams of the sleeve, will drain to the +fringe which the wind quickly dries. In our case, however, the poncho +will protect the shirt from a wetting. + +In summer, in an arid or desert region of the Southwest, athletic +summer underwear will be found entirely satisfactory. Whether this or +light wool is to be worn, however, will depend entirely upon the season +and the region to be visited. + +In very warm weather a close-woven, good quality khaki outer shirt is +both comfortable and practical; but on chilly autumn days a flannel +shirt should take its place--gray, brown, blue--the color does not +matter so long as it does not crock. It is my custom to have one khaki +and one flannel shirt in my outfit. + +Trousers should be of heavy khaki, medium weight moleskin, or other +strong close-woven material. Full-length trousers, with reinforced +seat, are preferable in some respects to riding breeches, and may be +worn with the regulation United States cavalry puttee leggings with +shoes. + +Some riders prefer top boots, such as Arizona cowboys wear, and but +for their high heels which make walking uncomfortable they would +be admirable. High-laced, medium-weight mountaineering shoes will +eliminate the necessity of puttees, and many prefer them to low-laced +shoes and puttees. In snowy, cold weather I have found heavy German +socks and ordinary shoes, large enough to avoid the possibility of +pinching the feet, admirable footwear for the saddle. But whatever +is decided upon, extra trousers, extra leggings and extra shoes are +superfluous. One pair of each--the pair worn--is sufficient. + +The hat should be of the Western style, with broad brim, and of the +best grade. The brims of the cheaper ones are sure to sag after a +little wear and exposure to a shower or two. A good reliable hat may +be had for five dollars that will stand several years of hard wear and +may be renovated when soiled, assuming again the freshness of a new +hat. I have one for which I paid fourteen pesos in Monterey, Mexico, in +1907. I have worn It pretty steadily since in camp and on the trail. It +has been twice renovated, and to-day so nearly resembles a new hat that +I am not ashamed to wear it about town. + +Heavy gauntlet buckskin gloves are a necessary protection, not +only against cold in frosty weather, but against brush in summer. +The regulation United States cavalry glove is the best that I have +discovered for all-around hard usage, and will not harden after a +wetting. + +The saddle rifle should be short and light--not over twenty-four-inch +barrel, and not above seven pounds in weight. A revolver is never +needed, though for target practice one offers a means of amusement. + +Unless going into permanent camp or into an isolated region, it will +hardly be found necessary to start out with more than one week's +provisions. Before these are consumed settlements will be reached, +where fresh supplies may be purchased. It is well to have along a few +cans of baked beans and corned or roast beef, that a hasty meal may +be prepared when time does not allow a sufficient halt to permit the +preparation of uncooked foods. Two or three dozen lemons should also be +provided, particularly in summer, and in more or less arid regions. + +Provisions and general outfit should be neatly packed in small bags, +and evenly distributed in the kyacks. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +ADJUSTING THE PACK + + +In saddling up, be sure that the saddle blanket is folded large enough +to protect the horse's sides from the pack, when the pack is slung into +place. Otherwise the kyacks or alforjas will be liable with constant +chafing when the horse is in motion to cause sores. Not only where the +saddle rests upon the blanket but where the pack rests upon the horse's +sides there should be sufficient thicknesses of blanket to overcome +friction, and this demands a greater thickness than under the riding +saddle, for the pack load is a dead load. After the pack saddle is +thrown into place, and before cinching it, ease the blanket by pulling +it up slightly under the center of the saddle--along the backbone of +the animal. This will overcome the tendency of the blanket to draw down +and bind the horse's back too tightly when the saddle is cinched and +the pack in place. + +When packing the kyacks or alforjas particular care should be taken to +have the pair for each horse evenly balanced as to weight. If the load +swung on one side of the horse is heavier than that on the opposite +side, there will be a continual drawing down of the pack saddle on +the heavier side, resulting almost certainly in injury to the animal. +Inattention or willful carelessness on the part of packers in balancing +the pack is five times out of six the cause which leads to sore-backed +pack animals. + +If two or more pack animals are used, let such provisions and utensils +as are in constant use and will be needed at once by the cook, be +packed on one animal. Hobbles and bell should also be carried on this +animal. This will be the first animal unpacked, and while the other +animals are being unpacked the cook may get busy, and the packer will +have hobbles and bell at hand to immediately attach to the animals. + +Attached to each end of the kyacks and alforjas is a leathern loop or +sling strap. By means of these loops kyacks and alforjas are hung to +the saddle, one loop fitting over the forward, the other over the rear +cruz, or fork. The kyacks should be so adjusted as to hang evenly one +with the other. That is to say, one kyack should hang no lower upon the +animal's side than the other, and both should hang as high as possible. + +The kyacks in place, hobbles, bell, and such odds and ends as it may +not be convenient to pack in the kyack, may be laid on the center +between the crosstrees and on top of the kyack, and over all smoothly +folded blankets, sleeping bags, or tent, care being exercised to keep +the pack as low and smooth as possible. Everything carefully placed and +adjusted, cover the pack with the pack cloth or tarpaulin, folded to +proper size to protect the whole pack, but with no loose ends extending +beyond it to catch upon brush or other obstructions. If inconvenient to +include within the pack, the cooking outfit in its canvas case may be +lashed to the top of pack after the final hitch has been tied. All is +ready now for the hitch that is to bind the pack into place. + +Frequently the traveler is not provided with either kyacks or alforjas, +and it becomes necessary to pack the load without the convenience of +these receptacles. Before considering the hitches, therefore, let us +describe methods of slinging the load in such cases upon the crosstree +saddle. + +The load which is to be slung from the crosstree should be arranged in +two compact packages of equal weight, one for each side of the animal. +Boxes may be used, but large, strong sacks are preferable. The large +canvas duffle bags, described in the chapter on canoe outfitting, are +well adapted to the purpose. + +[Illustration: SLING FOR PACKING ON CROSSTREE SADDLE + +A is forward cruz, B rear cruz of saddle. CC are loops which support +packages. D and E are ends or hauling parts of rope.] + +Take the sling rope, and, standing on the near side, throw one end over +the horse's neck just forward of the saddle. Now at about the middle of +the rope form two half hitches, or a clove hitch, on the forward cruz +or fork of the saddle. + +With the free end of the rope on the near side form a half hitch on the +rear cruz, allowing sufficient loop between the forward and rear cruz +to receive the side pack, with the free end of the rope falling under +the loop. Now go to the off side and arrange the rope on that side in +similar manner. + +Lift the offside pack into position with its forward end even with the +forward fork, lifting the pack well up to the forks. Hold the pack in +position with the palm of the right hand against the center of the +pack, and with the left hand pass the loop along the lower side of the +pack, drawing in the slack with the free end of the rope, which passes +around the rear fork and under the center of the pack. With the pack +drawn snugly in position, take a turn with the free end of the rope +around the rope along the side of the pack. This will hold the pack in +position. Tie a bowline knot in the end of rope, and at proper length +for the bowline loop to reach the center and top of pack. Place loop +where it may be easily reached from the near side. + +Now pass to the near side and sling the near pack in exactly similar +manner, save that no bowline knot is to be formed. Reach up and slip +the end of the near rope, which you are holding, through the bowline +loop, draw tight and tie. + +The following is another method of slinging packs, frequently used by +forest rangers: + +Throw the rope across the horse directly in front of the saddle, and +as in the previous method form two half hitches with the rope at its +middle on the front fork, but in this case permitting the ends to lie +on the ground on either side the horse. Place the near pack in position +and against the lower rope, and holding it with one hand, bring the +rope up and over the pack with the other hand and throw a half hitch +around the forward fork, keeping the free end of the rope under. Draw +the rope taut, lifting the pack well up. Pass the running rope back and +throw a half hitch around the rear fork, the loose or running end of +the rope on the under side, as when forming the half hitch on the front +fork. Now pass the running rope from under over the pack at the rear, +throw a half hitch over the rear fork, take up all slack, bring the +loose end under and around the two ropes at their intersection between +pack and rear fork, and tie securely. The pack on off side is slung in +similar manner. + +Most mules, and not infrequently horses as well, have a constitutional +dislike to receiving the pack. If your pack animal displays any such +tendency adjust the blind over his eyes and let it remain there until +the hitch is thrown and the load tightened and secured. The blind is +usually an effective quieter. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES + + +Whether the load is made up with kyacks, alforjas, or separate packs +slung to the crosstree saddle as described in the preceding chapter it +must be secured in place. For this purpose various hitches are employed +by packers, each hitch well adapted to the particular conditions which +evolved it. + +Our description will be confined to the following six hitches, which +furnish ample variety to suit the exigencies of ordinary circumstances: + +(1) The crosstree or squaw hitch, which is the father of all hitches +because from it the diamond, the double diamond and all pack-train +hitches in present-day use were evolved. + +(2) A diamond hitch, adapted to the crosstree pack saddle. This is a +form of single diamond. + +(3) The United States army diamond particularly adapted for use with +the aparejo. The true double diamond is a hitch rarely called for save +in army work or freighting pack trains, and will therefore be omitted. +There are several so-called double diamonds that might be described, +but these near-double diamonds possess little or no advantage over +the single diamond, and we shall pass them over as they are scarcely +resorted to in ordinary pack work. + +(4) The one-man or lifting hitch. + +(5) The stirrup hitch, to be used when the packer has rope but no cinch. + +(6) The saddle hitch, employed in slinging loads upon an ordinary +riding saddle. + +(7) The hitch for packing a sick or injured man. + + +THE CROSSTREE HITCH + +This hitch was introduced into the Northwest by the early fur traders +and adopted by the Indians. Among Indians, women are the laborers, and +the crosstree hitch being the hitch almost exclusively employed by the +squaws was presently dubbed by white men the "squaw hitch." It is a +hitch very generally used by prospectors, and for this reason is known +in some localities as the "prospector's hitch." In other sections of +the West, where sheep herders commonly use it, it is locally called the +"sheep herder's hitch." It is a hitch easily thrown by one man, holds +well, and is therefore a favorite. + +[Illustration: SQUAW OR CROSSTREE HITCH + +(FIG. 1.) Rope engaged on cinch hook and bight of rope running from +rear forward under standing rope.] + +[Illustration: (FIG. 2.) Loop of bight enlarged, reversed and passed +around bottom and lower corners of off side pack.] + +[Illustration: (FIG. 3.) Hitch formed and ready to tighten. 1. Standing +rope. 2. Running rope. 3. Rear rope--off side. 4. Front rope--off side. +5. Front rope--near side. 6. Rear rope--near side. 7. Marker.] + +With lash rope attached to cinch, take a position on the near side of +the animal facing the pack. Throw the cinch over the top and center of +pack in such manner as to be easily reached under the horse's belly. +Pick up cinch and engage the rope from in out upon the hook. Draw up +slack, taking care that the cinch rests properly upon the horse's +belly. Grasp the running and standing rope in left hand above the hook, +to hold slack, and with the right hand double the running rope and +thrust the doubled portion under the standing rope from rear forward +in a bight, at top of pack. Enlarge the loop of the bight by drawing +through enough slack rope to make the loop of sufficient size to be +passed over and around the off side kyack or pack. Step to off side, +turn loop over, and engage it around the ends and bottom of kyack, from +front to rear. Return to near side, and pass the loose end of running +rope around the forward end, bottom and finally rear end of kyack. +Draw the rope end, from above down, over and under the standing rear +and running ropes, at the top and center of the load, and the hitch is +ready to tighten. + +To tighten the hitch, grasp the running rope a little above the cinch +hook, and pull with all your strength, taking up every inch of slack +possible. Retain this slack by holding the standing and running rope +together with left hand, while with the right hand you reach to top of +load and pull up slack where running rope passes under standing rope. +Go to off side and draw in all slack, following the rope around off +side pack. Retaining slack, return to near side, and still following +rope and taking up slack around front to rear of near side pack, grasp +end of rope, already engaged as directed over and under standing rear +and running rope, pull hard, bracing a foot against pack, and tie. Two +men, one on each side of the horse, can, of course, throw the hitch and +tighten the load much more quickly than one. Tightening the load is +just as important a feature of packing as evenly balancing the packs. +The result of an improperly tightened load will pretty certainly be a +sore-backed horse. + + +THE CROSSTREE DIAMOND HITCH + +[Illustration: (FIG. 1.) A turn is here taken around standing rope with +loop of bight of running rope thrust under standing rope from rear to +front, as in Fig. 1, illustrating Squaw Hitch.] + +Take position on the near side of horse, as when forming the crosstree +hitch, and throw cinch over horse, engaging it on hook and adjusting +it in exactly similar manner. Take in slack and retain it by grasping +the standing and running ropes in left hand. Double running rope and +thrust doubled portion under standing rope in a bight, from rear +forward at top and center of load. Take up all slack. Enlarge loop +of bight by drawing through enough running rope to form a diamond of +sufficient size to hold top of load. Now bring center of loop over and +under standing rope, from rear forward, thus giving rope at each side +of loop a complete turn around standing rope. Throw the disengaged +portion of running rope to off side of horse, and passing to the off +side, bringing the rope down along rear, bottom, and up front of kyack, +thrust loose rope end up through loop at top of pack. Take in slack and +return to near side of horse. Engage running rope around front, bottom +and rear end of near side kyack or pack, and thrust rope end over and +under standing rope opposite center of loop. Take up slack and load in +ready to tighten. + +[Illustration: CROSSTREE DIAMOND HITCH + +(FIG. 2.) Hitch formed ready to tighten.] + +Tighten load by grasping running rope above hook and drawing as tight +as possible. Hold slack with left hand, gripping running and standing +rope, and take up slack at loop with right hand. Pass to off side and +take up slack and tighten rear to front around kyack. Pass to near +side, tightening front to rear; finally, bracing a foot against the +load pull on loose end, and retaining all slack make final tie. + +The above described "diamond" hitch is not the true diamond employed by +government pack trains where the aparejo is used, but it is a diamond +evolved from the crosstree hitch, and is particularly well adapted to +the crosstree or sawbuck pack saddle, is easily formed, and holds the +load securely, which is the ultimate object of all hitches. + + +THE UNITED STATES ARMY DIAMOND HITCH + +The single diamond hitch employed by army packers is the ideal hitch +for securing a load upon an aparejo. This is a two-man hitch, though an +expert can throw it alone. + +One packer takes his position on the off side of the animal, while the +other with the coiled lash rope, cinch attached, remains on the near +side. + +The near packer, retaining the cinch, throws the coiled rope over the +horse's haunch, to rear. The off packer picks up end of rope, and +receiving the hook end of cinch, passed to him under horse's belly by +near packer, holds it together with end of rope in his left hand, and +stands erect. + +[Illustration: UNITED STATES ARMY DIAMOND HITCH + +Figures represent successive stages in formation. Near side towards +right in each case. Line PP in Fig. 1 represents horse's back. AA (Fig. +3) standing part of rope, and A´ (Fig. 2) the running rope. + +FIG. 1.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 2.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 3.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 4.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 5.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 6.] + +The near packer, taking a position at the horse's neck, grasps the rope +about six feet from cinch, and with an upward and backward motion, +drops it between the two packs, one slung on either side of the +aparejo. + +Still grasping the rope in his right hand just forward of the packs at +the top, he pulls forward between the packs sufficient running rope to +permit him to bring his hand down to his side. Retaining the rope in +his right hand he now reaches up with his left hand, and with back of +hand up and thumb under grasps running rope and draws sufficient rope +forward to permit the left hand grasping the rope to come down to his +side, arm's length. + +With the right elbow crooked the right hand, still holding the rope, +is brought up about on a level with the chin, and the left hand, also +retaining its hold on the rope, thumb down, is raised to hollow of the +right arm, with loop of rope between the hands lying outside the right +arm. Now by a single swinging motion with both hands the rope in the +right hand, called the "standing rope," is thrown over the center of +pack to the off packer who stands ready to receive it; and the rope +held in the left hand, called the "running rope," over the horse's +neck, forward of the pack. + +The off packer, still standing with cinch hook and end of rope in left +hand, with his right hand grasps the standing rope as it comes over +as high up as he can conveniently reach, draws it down, and holding +the cinch hook in proper position below the aparejo draws down the +standing rope and engages it upon the hook from in out. + +The near packer now draws forward between the packs about six feet +more rope, which he throws to the rear of the near side pack. This +rope is now called the "rear" rope. He next grasps the running rope at +the horse's neck, and with the off packer's assistance releases that +portion of the running rope lying between the packs forward of the +standing rope, and brings it to the center of pack on near side, next +to and just back of the standing rope. + +He now slips his right hand down the rope to a point half way between +pack and aparejo boot, and with the left hand reaches from forward +between standing rope and aparejo and grasps the rope just above the +right hand. Both hands are now slipped down the rope, and with the same +motion drawn apart, one on each side of standing rope (under which the +rope being manipulated passes) to the cinches. With the hands about +ten inches apart, the section of rope between them, which is held in a +horizontal position, is jammed down between the two cinches under the +aparejo. + +The off packer, holding the running rope with his right hand above the +hook, places the left hand holding end of rope on top of running rope +between his right hand and the hook, and with thumb under running rope +grasps both ropes and slips his hands up on running rope, bringing it +to center of load. + +He now draws the end of the rope, held by left hand, forward until a +foot or so falls upon the near side of the horse's neck. The hitch is +now formed, ready to tighten. + +To tighten, the near packer with his left palm passing the side and +center of the pack grasps the running rope at the rear of the standing +rope, at the same time bringing the running rope between the thumb and +index finger of the left hand, which he is using as a brace. In this +position he is prepared to hold slack as it is given him by the off +packer. + +The off packer grasps the running rope close down to the hook, and, +bracing himself with a knee against the aparejo boot, pulls with all +his might, taking two or more pulls, if necessary, and giving slack to +near packer, until no more slack can be taken on standing rope. He now +steps smartly to rear and throws the top rope forward of the pack. The +top rope is the rope leading up from the rear corner of the aparejo +boot on near side to the side and center of off side pack. After it +is thrown forward it is called the "front" rope. He now prepares to +receive slack from near packer by grasping the rear rope where it lies +between the packs. + +The near packer, who has been receiving the slack given him by the off +packer, carries his right hand, with which he holds the slack at rear +of standing rope, to lower side of pack toward the aparejo, and reaches +under standing rope, with left hand grasps rope above right hand, +drawing it forward under standing rope, and employing both hands jams +it upward in a bight between standing rope and pack. Care should be +taken during this operation to retain all slack. + +The near packer now engages around front boot of aparejo the free +portion of the running rope below the bight just formed. Holding slack +with left hand, he grasps the rope to rear of cinch in right hand; +receiving slack from left hand he brings rope to rear of aparejo boot, +and with both hands carries rope smartly to upper corner of side pack, +always retaining slack. The off packer receives slack, pulling it in +quickly hand over hand, the near packer retaining his hold until the +off packer has the rope taut. The near packer now takes a position +at the forward end of load, facing the rear, and grasps end of rope +prepared to take slack from off packer. + +The off packer, after receiving slack from near packer as described +takes a turn of the rope around each hand, holding every inch of +slack, steps to the rear, keeping in line with the horse's body, +and then facing forward throws his full weight back upon the rope. +Retaining the slack with his left hand, with his right hand he brings +the free portion of running rope under and around the aparejo boot, +from rear to front, passes forward of rope, and facing the rear and +grasping rope, right hand above the left, brings it smartly to upper +corner of pack. + +The near packer, holding end of rope, immediately draws in slack until +he has about six feet of free rope, which he throws over center of load +to off side, and then drawing in all remaining slack takes a turn of +rope around each hand and throws his weight upon it, and the off packer +releases his hold. + +Holding the slack with the left hand, the near packer releases his +right hand and with it engages the free or running portion of rope +under and around the aparejo boot to rear of load, while the off packer +steps to rear of load, takes end of rope, and while he draws in all +slack, neatly coils rope, holding coil in right hand at lower side +of pack, and, with palm of left hand braced against center of load, +receives slack from near packer. + +Grasping in his left hand the taut rope above the coils, and lifting +it sufficiently above the load to admit the coiled rope under it, he +swings the coils with his right hand from rear to front to top of load +and brings the standing rope held in his left hand down on top of the +coils to hold them. He now takes a loop of the rope, forces it between +standing rope and pack, in a bight, and takes a turn of the loop around +standing and running rope to secure it, first joining the loop well up, +and the hitch is tightened. + + +THE ONE-MAN OR LIFTING HITCH + +This is a pretty good hitch sometimes where kyacks are not used and an +irregular pack is swung upon the crosstree. While it holds the pack +very securely to the animal's back, its tendency is to lift the corners +that might cause friction upon the horse's sides. + +Standing on the near side of the horse, throw cinch over the horse's +back, pick up cinch and engage rope upon cinch hook, from in out, as in +previous hitches. Take up slack, bring running rope up side of pack, +double and thrust loop or bight under standing rope from rear forward +at top of pack, to hold slack. Throw all loose rope to off side, and +pass around to off side yourself. + +[Illustration: (FIG. 1.) + + A--Cinch D--Running rope + C--Standing rope E--Front rope + B--Cinch hook F--Marker] + +[Illustration: LIFTING HITCH + +(FIG. 2.) Grasp loop A in left hand and with right jam rope C C along +and under rope B (where latter passes beneath corner of pack) to D, as +shown in Fig. 3.] + +[Illustration: (FIG. 3.) Off side of hitch completed.] + +[Illustration: LIFTING HITCH + +(FIG. 4.) Hitch formed ready to tighten.] + +Draw loose end of running rope forward and from under standing rope +at top of pack. The effect of operations thus far is this: The running +rope passes up the near side, from hook and to top of load and passes +under standing rope, which will serve effectually in final tightening +of cinch to hold slack. + +Pass end of running rope over and under the forward end of off pack and +backward under standing rope and pack. Now bring the rope forward over +side of pack, double, and thrust the doubled portion over and under +forward rope in a bight. With left hand grasp double of rope at bight +just to rear of forward rope where it passes over and under forward +rope, and with right hand slip running rope down and just to rear of +standing rope. Take up slack. By pulling hard upon loose end of running +rope the ends of pack will be lifted slightly. + +Throw loose end over horse to near side, and across middle of load. +Pass to near side and manipulate rope as on off side. Tighten load. +Secure the hitch by bringing loose end of rope over and under forward +running and standing ropes, and tie. + + +STIRRUP HITCH + +This hitch is useful where the packer has lash rope but no cinch, and +may be employed on sawbuck saddle, aparejo, or where the load is hung +upon an ordinary riding saddle. It is a two-man hitch, though one man +may manipulate it. + +[Illustration: (FIG. 1.) Rope is thrown across load with equal portion +falling on each side. Loop A is formed on top of load, and the ends BB +are passed through it to form large loops C and D.] + +[Illustration: STIRRUP HITCH + +(FIG. 2.) Loops C and D are passed under horse's belly and seized by +packers on opposite sides. Each packer then draws end of rope which he +is holding through loop which has been passed to him. Off packer forms +bowline knot, E, and near packer passes his end of rope through this. +Hitch is now ready to tighten.] + +Pass the rope over the load, with an equal division of rope on either +side. Form a loop at center and top of load. Each packer will now place +a foot upon the rope, where it falls from loop to ground, and pass his +end of rope through loop from above down and draw through slack rope. +This forms a loop on either side in which the foot rests. Each packer +will now bring forward and under the horse's belly the loop in which +his foot rests, passing the loop to the other packer at the same time +disengaging his foot, and will pass the loose end of rope which he +holds through the loop which he receives. The ropes on top of pack +will now be spread to properly cover and secure the pack, and all slack +taken. + +The off side packer now forms a bowline knot in the loose end of his +rope, the near side packer passes his loose end through the bowline +loop. To tighten the load the off side packer gives slack, while the +near side packer braces and draws in on loose end of rope, tying at +bowline loop to secure load. + + +THE SADDLE HITCH + +[Illustration: SADDLE HITCH + +With rope arranged as shown throw deer across saddle, enlarge loops +A and B around haunches and neck. Bring ends C and D together, form +bowline knot on end D, pass end C through it and tighten.] + +This is a particularly useful hitch when it becomes necessary to sling +a deer to a riding saddle for transportation to camp. + +Throw the lash rope across the saddle seat, an equal division of rope +falling to either side. Double the rope where it crosses the cinch ring +and thrust it through the cinch ring in a loop, drawing through enough +loose rope to form a good-sized loop. This should be done on both +sides. Lay the deer across saddle, with head hanging on one side and +haunches on the other side, slip loop on one side over the deer's head, +and the loop on the other side over its haunches. Take in all slack. +Form a bowline loop on end of off side rope, and lay it on top of load. +This loop should be so adjusted as to reach the middle of the top of +load. Passing to near side, thread loose end of near side rope through +the bowline loop. Tighten load by pulling on loose end, and tie. + + +HOW TO PACK A SICK OR INJURED MAN + +Sometimes it occurs that a member of a party is so injured or becomes +so ill as to be helpless, and the problem of transporting him upon +horseback presents itself. This may be done in the following manner +upon a crosstree or sawbuck saddle: + +Cut two straight sticks three feet long and about three inches in +diameter. Fit one on either side of saddle snug against the forks. Lash +securely to forks forward and rear, with ends of sticks protruding an +equal distance forward of and back of forward and rear forks. It may be +well to cut shallow notches in the sticks where they rest against the +forks. This will preclude lateral motion. + +Cut two sticks two feet long and three inches in diameter. Place one +in front and one in rear at right angles to and across top of sticks +already in position. These cross-pieces are to be lashed to position +one about two inches from forward ends, the other two inches from +rear ends of lengthwise sticks. Before lashing them into position cut +notches to receive lash ropes at points of intersection, that any +tendency to slip or work loose may be overcome. + +Now cut two poles six feet long and three inches in diameter. Spread a +pack cloth upon the ground, and presuming the pack cloth is six feet +wide, place a pole on each outer end of it. Roll poles, with pack +cloth, to center until there is a width of twenty inches between the +outer edges of poles. In this position lace cloth to each pole, or if +horseshoe or other nails are handy, nail it to poles. Should the cloth +be wider than length of poles, fold in a margin on each end, before +rolling. Place litter on cross-pieces, the flat of canvas on top. +Notch, and secure poles of stretcher at front and rear to cross-pieces. +Lash down litter by means of the stirrup hitch. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +TRAVELING WITHOUT A PACK HORSE + + +The man who travels without a pack horse, and carries his full +equipment and provision supply upon his saddle must, of necessity, +deny himself many things that under ordinary circumstances are deemed +essentials. He must indeed travel light, and unless he is well inured +to roughing it will be content to confine his activities to the warmer +and less inclement months. + +The food supply is the first consideration, but nowadays one is certain +to come every three or four days at the outside upon some point where +fresh supplies may be purchased. Therefore, twelve to fifteen pounds of +provisions, carefully selected from the ration already suggested, will +meet the utmost needs. In selecting the ration it is well to eliminate +all luxuries. It may also be said that canned goods are too heavy, +where one is to pack more than a two-days' supply, and bacon should be +made the basis of the meat diet. But then we are considering methods +of packing and carrying, rather than check lists. Limiting the quantity +to fifteen pounds for a five-days' trip--and this is ample with +judicious selection--the individual will be left to decide his ration +for himself. + +Saddle bags will be found indispensable and in them will be ample +room to carry the limited toilet articles required, a hand towel, one +change of light woolen or summer underwear, matches, tobacco and rifle +cartridges. The best shelter is a lean-to tent, made of extra light +cloth. This should be about seven feet long, four and one-half feet +high and four feet deep. Such a tent will weigh about three pounds. + +The cooking outfit will be limited to essentials. If it can be had an +aluminum army or "Preston" mess kit, either of which weighs about two +pounds, a sheath knife with broad blade, and a pint cup, will fill all +requirements. If the mess kit cannot be procured, a small frying pan +with folding handle, an aluminum or enamel plate and a dessert spoon +with sheath knife, and a pint cup, will do nearly as well. In this +latter case coffee may be made in the cup. A small canteen, which may +be hung upon the saddle horn, should also be provided. + +A small belt axe that weighs about two pounds, with sheath, a lariat +and a few feet of rope will be required. + +A single blanket or a pair of light blankets not exceeding five pounds +in weight will constitute the only bedding that can be conveniently +carried. + +To pack the outfit spread tent flat upon the ground, turning the +triangular ends in to lie flat. Fold the tent once, end for end. +This will make a rectangular pack cloth three and one-half feet long +and about five and one-half feet wide. Fold your blanket to a size a +little smaller than tent and spread it flat upon the tent. Arrange your +provision packages on the blanket a foot or so from one end and with a +margin of a foot or more on either side. Fold the end of blanket and +tent up and over the packages and roll up blanket and tent together +with a band close to the knob in center to hold the packages in place +and prevent their working down toward ends of roll. + +The provisions should be thoroughly protected in bags, as previously +suggested, in order that they may not soil the blanket. + +Place the roll directly behind saddle seat with the bulge caused by the +provision bulk resting against saddle seat, the end of roll falling +on either side, and tie in position by means of leather tie strings +attached to saddle on each side. The tie should be made in both cases +just below the bulge in roll. + +The tent will protect blanket and provisions, and if judgment has been +used in the selection and arrangement of provisions the bulk should not +be unduly or inconveniently large. The cooking kit, if enclosed in a +canvas case with handle, may be lashed to roll by passing lash string +through the handle and over the top and around the kit. A strap above +the upper loop of the rifle boot and through the belt loop on the axe +scabbard will hold the axe and another buckled around the rifle boot +and lower end of handle will prevent a slapping motion of the handle. + +The poncho, neatly rolled, may be carried on the pommel, the center +of the roll pressed against the back of the horn, the ends drawn down +and forward of the pommel on either side and secured with the leathern +tie strings attached to the saddle. When not in use sweater or Pontiac +shirt may be carried with the poncho. + +The horse may be picketed with the lariat. Hobbles may be made as +cowboys make them from rope. A strand unraveled from half-inch rope +brought once around one leg, twisted rather tightly, the ends brought +around the other leg and secured in the twist between the legs, makes +a good hobble. Always fasten picket rope or hobble below the fetlock +just above the hoof--_never_ above the fetlock. + +The outfit here outlined will weigh, including rifle and a reasonable +amount of ammunition, from forty to forty-five pounds at the utmost, +and one may be very comfortable with it. If game and fish can be caught +and are to be depended upon, the provisions may be cut down to a little +flour, bacon, coffee and sugar, and the traveler may tarry in the +wilderness for a considerable time. + +One may leave out the tent, and in a warm climate even the blanket, +relying for shelter wholly upon the poncho. An experienced man will +often limit his cooking outfit to a cup and canteen. A good strong +reliable horse, a good saddle equipment, and enough plain food is all +one really needs who has experience in wilderness travel. Such a man +can make himself comfortable with exceedingly little. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +AFOOT IN SUMMER + + +On the portage one may carry a pretty heavy pack and think nothing of +it, for the end of the portage and the relaxation of the paddle is just +ahead. The portage is merely an incident of the canoe trip. + +The foot traveler, however, has no canoe to carry him and his outfit +five or ten miles for every mile he carries his outfit. He must carry +both himself and his outfit the entire distance traversed. This is +obvious, and it leads to the conclusion that the outfit must be +accordingly reduced both in weight and bulk. + +How heavy a load may be easily transported depends, of course, upon the +man, but it is safe to say that the inexperienced will find twenty-five +pounds a heavy enough burden, and within this limit must be included +shelter, bed, and one week's provisions; though ordinarily the tramper +will be able to renew his supply of provisions almost daily. + +Under all ordinary circumstances a single woolen blanket weighing not +to exceed three pounds will be found ample summer bedding. A lean-to +shelter tent seven feet long, four feet wide and four feet high of +one of the light tenting materials previously described, weighs less +than three pounds and furnishes ample and comfortable shelter. Blanket +and tent may be carried easily in a roll, the tent on the outside to +protect the blanket. + +To make the roll spread the tent upon the ground, fold the blanket +once, end for end, and spread it upon the tent, the sides of the +blanket (_not_ folded ends) toward the ends of the tent. Fold in ends +of tent over blanket and roll up. Double the roll and tie together a +little above the ends with a stout string. The roll, dropped over the +head with center resting upon one shoulder and the tied ends coming +together near the hip on the opposite side, may be carried with little +inconvenience. Blankets are usually seventy-two inches wide, therefore +the roll should be about six feet in length before it is doubled and +the ends tied. + +A belt axe will be carried, in a sheath, upon the belt, the remaining +equipment and provisions in a Nessmuk pack or a ruck sack. The Nessmuk +pack, sold by most outfitters, is about 12 × 20 × 5 inches in size +and made of waterproofed canvas. This will easily hold a nine-inch +frying pan with folding handle, an aluminum pan 7 × 3 inches with +folding handle, a pint cup (if you do not wish to carry the cup on your +belt), a spoon or two, a cooking knife, a dish cloth and a dish towel, +together with one week's provisions, matches, etc. There will still +be room for a small bag containing the few needed toilet articles and +hand towel, and another small bag containing one change of light-weight +woolen underwear and two pairs of socks. + +The cooking outfit indicated is limited, but quite ample. I have done +very well for weeks at a time with no other cooking utensils than a +pint cup and a sheath knife. But here we cannot go into woodcraft +or extreme concentration of rations and outfit. We are considering, +rather, comfortable or moderately comfortable outfits and how to pack +or transport them. + +Tent, blanket, axe, food and other equipment above suggested will, if +intelligently selected, not go beyond the twenty-five pound limit. The +greatest weight will be in the food, and each day will reduce this +about two pounds. If provisions can be purchased from day to day these, +of course, need not be carried, and the remaining load will be very +light indeed. + +I would suggest that a light sweater take the place of a coat as it +will be found more comfortable and useful and may be carried on top of +the pack or in the blanket roll, for it will rarely be worn save in the +evening camp. + +A broad-brimmed felt hat, an outer shirt of medium-weight flannel, +khaki trousers and strong but not too heavy shoes make a practical and +comfortable costume. Woolen socks protect the feet from chafing. Some +campers like long German stockings, which serve also for leggings, +and wear thin cotton socks inside them. In selecting shoes take into +consideration the kind of socks or stockings to be worn, and see that +the shoes are amply large though not too large, for shoes too large are +nearly as uncomfortable as shoes too small. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +WITH SNOWSHOES AND TOBOGGAN + + +In the mode of travel here to be considered the voyageur, equipped +with snowshoes, hauls his provisions and entire camping paraphernalia +upon a toboggan or flat sled. The toboggan (Indian ta´-bas-kan´) +had its origin in the prehistoric past among the Algonquin Indians +of northeastern America. It was designed by them for the purpose of +transporting goods over trackless, unbeaten snow wastes where sleds +with runners could not be used, and for this purpose it is unequaled. + +While for our purpose the conventionalized toboggan sold by outfitters +and designed for hill sliding and general sport will answer very +well, the wilderness model in use by Indians and trappers in our +northern wilderness is a better designed and preferable type for the +transportation of loads. + +Various lengths of toboggans are in use, each intended for the +particular purpose for which it was built. The longest Indian toboggan +I ever saw was twelve feet in length, but from six to eight feet is the +ordinary length, with a width of nine inches at the tip of the curved +nose, gradually increasing to fourteen inches wide where the curve ends +and the sliding surface or bottom begins, and tapering away to about +six inches wide at the heel. The conventionalized type averages from +four to six feet in length with a uniform width of about fifteen inches +from curve to heel. + +Some three or more crossbars, depending upon the length of the +toboggan, are lashed at intervals across the top, the forward one at +the beginning of the curve where the nose begins to turn upward, and on +either side of the toboggan from front to rear side bar, and fastened +to the side bars at their ends are side ropes. + +Beaver-tail, bear's-paw, or swallow-tail snowshoes, of Indian make, are +the shapes best adapted to the sort of travel we are considering. These +models are all broad and comparatively short. The web should be of good +caribou babiche, closely woven for use upon dry snow, and indeed for +all-around conditions. While on wet, soggy snow a coarse web may in +some respects be preferable it will not compare in efficiency with the +close web on loose snow, or for all-around work under all sorts of +conditions. Long, narrow snowshoes may be very good for racing where +the country is smooth, but they are not suited to a rough, wooded or +broken country or to hummocky snow. + +The best and most practical, as well as the simplest sling or binding +for the snowshoe is made as follows: Cut from an Indian tanned buckskin +a thong about half an inch wide and thirty inches in length. Thread +one end of this, from above down, through the web at one side of the +toe hole, and from the bottom up at the opposite side. Pull it through +until the two ends are even. Draw the thong up at the middle, where +it crosses the toe hole, to make a loop large enough to admit the toe +under it, but not large enough to permit the toe to slide forward +against the forward cross-bar. Wrap the two ends of the thong around +center of loop two or three times bringing them forward over the top +and drawing them under and back through the loop. Slip your toes under +the loop, bring the ends of the thong back, one on either side of the +foot, and tie snugly in the hollow above your heel. + +This sling will hold well, will not chafe the foot, and with it the +snowshoe may be kicked free from the foot or adjusted to the foot in an +instant. + +Should the thongs stretch in moist weather, the sling may be tightened +by simply taking an additional turn or two (without untying) around the +toe loop. + +I believe that lamp-wicking would answer as well as buckskin thongs, +though I have never used it because I have always carried an ample +supply of buckskin. + +The best underclothing for the winter trail is good weight--though not +the heaviest--woolen. Two suits should be carried besides the suit +worn. Underclothing should not fit the body too snugly. It is better +that it should be a size too large than an exact fit. + +The outer shirt should be of flannel, and of good quality, though not +too heavy. + +Hudson's Bay Company trappers wear good-weight moleskin trousers, +almost entirely to the exclusion of other fabrics, and I adopted them +several years ago as superior to any other. They are wind-proof and +warm and are particularly well adapted to the rough work of the trail. + +The ordinary coat is not at all adapted to the northern wilderness +in winter, for it will not protect against drifting snow and driving +blizzard. In its stead the Eskimo adickey should be worn. + +Any seamstress who can cut and make an ordinary work shirt can make an +adickey if your outfitter cannot supply it. This garment is slipped on +over the head like a shirt, and has a hood attached to draw over the +cap as a neck and head protection. The neck opening is large enough to +permit the head to pass through it without the necessity of a buttoned +opening in front, for no matter how closely buttoned a garment may be +drifting snow will find its way in. In length the adickey reaches half +way between hip and knees and is made circular at the bottom. The hood +should be of ample proportion to pull over the cap loosely, with a +drawstring encircling the front by which it may be drawn snugly to the +face. A fringe of muskrat or other fur around the face increases the +comfort, the fur acting as a protection against drifting snow. While +white Hudson's Bay Company kersey cloth is a favorite fabric for this +garment, it may be made of any woolen blanket duffle or similar cloth. + +Over the kersey adickey another adickey of some smooth-surfaced, strong +material, preferably moleskin, should be worn. This outside adickey +should of course be just enough larger than the kersey or blanket +adickey to fit over it easily. The adickeys may be worn singly or +together, according to the demands of the weather. + +A Pontiac shirt, to be worn under the adickeys in extremely cold +weather, should be included in the outfit. This will serve, too, in +camp, when the adickeys are laid aside. + +A round cap of fur or heavy cloth provided with flaps to turn down over +the ears makes the best head protection. The hoods of the two adickeys, +as before stated, should be large enough to draw over this. + +Very important indeed is the question of foot dress. Not only must we +aim to secure the greatest possible freedom and ease in walking, but +the ever-present danger of frostbite must also be guarded against. + +Socks should be of wool, of the home-knit variety, and besides the pair +worn, three or four extra pairs should be carried in the kit. + +Knit socks will not be sufficient protection, however, and where two +or three pairs are worn they are certain to bunch or wrinkle, with +chafed and sore feet as a result. All Hudson's Bay Company stores keep +in stock a white fuzzy woolen duffle of blanket thickness. If you are +making your start from a Post purchase some of this duffle and have +one of the women at the Post make you a pair of knee-length stockings +of the duffle to pull over your knit socks, and two pairs of slippers +of the same material, one just large enough to fit over the foot of +the long stockings, the other just a little larger to fit over all. +These should be made of proper size, to obviate wrinkles. The larger +outfitters carry in stock good wool duffle, and will make these to fit +properly. + +In crisp, cold weather, when the snow never softens or gets moist even +under the midday sun, buckskin moccasins should be the outer footwear. +Ordinary leather will freeze stiff, stop the proper circulation of +blood, and certainly lead to frosted feet. The moccasins should be +made with high tops, reaching above the ankles, with buckskin strings +to wrap around and secure them. Moccasins are light to pack, and it is +always well to carry a couple of extra pairs, to have on hand in case +of emergency. + +Leggings of moleskin (or some other strong, pliable cloth) large enough +to push the foot through protect the legs. These should be knee high, +with a drawstring to secure them just below the knee. Ordinary canvas +leggings will not do. The leggings _must_ be made in one piece, without +side buttons or other fastenings, for otherwise snow will work through +to the great discomfort of the wearer. + +I have a pair of buckskin moccasins sewn to legs of harbor sealskin, +the hair side of the sealskin out. This arrangement is preferable to +separate leggings but sealskin legs are difficult to procure. + +Ordinarily I have found one pair of knit socks, one pair of the long +duffle stockings described above and one pair of the duffle slippers, +worn inside the buckskin moccasins, quite sufficient. + +The knit socks may be done away with entirely and also one pair of +duffle slippers if rabbit-skin socks are to be had. These are worn with +the hair next the foot, and are very warm and soft. + +In weather when the snow softens and becomes wet at midday, buckskin +moccasins will not do, for the least moisture penetrates buckskin. In +such weather sealskin boots are the best foot protection. They are +waterproof, pliable and light. Sealskin boots for this purpose have +neither soles nor heels. They are simply sealskin moccasins with legs, +secured with drawstrings below the knee. These are of Eskimo make, and +not generally obtainable though they may be purchased in Newfoundland. +Oil-tanned moccasins, or larrigans, are the next best moist-snow foot +gear. + +Buckskin mittens with one or two inner pairs of mittens of thick wool +duffle, will protect the hands in the coldest weather. One pair should +be a little smaller than the other, that it may fit snugly into the +larger pair without wrinkles, and the larger pair of a size to fit in +the same manner into the buckskin mittens. When the weather is too warm +for both pairs, one pair may be removed. A fringe of muskrat or other +fur around the wrists of the buckskin mittens protects the wrists from +drifting snow. + +A pad of rabbit-skin worn across the forehead will protect it from +intense cold. Hunting hoods of knit camel's hair worsted are a pretty +good head protection, particularly at night. They cover the whole head +except the face, and may be drawn up over the chin. Mouth and nose must +not be covered, or the breath will quickly form a mass of ice upon the +face. + +One caution, though it may seem a digression, may be made: If the nose +or cheeks become frosted, as will certainly happen sooner or later to +one traveling in a very low temperature, _do not rub snow upon the +frosted part_. Snow rubbed on is pretty certain to fracture and remove +sections of the skin. The Eskimo way is to hold or rub the frosted part +with the bare hand until frost has been removed, and is far superior. + +The clothing outfit above described will be found ample. Extra trousers +or other extra outer garments are not needed. _Let all hang loosely +upon the body._ Nothing should fit snugly. + +A pair of smoked or amber goggles should always be included in the +winter outfit. Amber is more effective than smoked glass, though +ordinarily the latter will do. The goggles should be fastened with a +string to slip over the back of the head. _No metal should touch the +flesh._ + +The best low temperature sleeping bag is one of caribou skin made with +the hair inside. Under ordinary conditions, however, a waterproofed +canvas bag lined with good woolen blankets will do as well, though such +a bag with sufficient blanket lining to give it warmth equal to that +of the caribou skin bag would be much heavier and more bulky than the +latter. A bag lined with four thicknesses of llama wool duffle (that +is, four thicknesses over and four beneath the sleeper), however, +should not weigh more than ten pounds, and would correspond in warmth +to one lined with blankets weighing twenty pounds. + +An A or wedge tent will be found the best model for winter travel. A +sheet-iron tent stove _with bottom_ and telescoping pipe will make the +tent warm and snug. The tent should be fitted with an asbestos ring at +the stovepipe hole as a protection. A pack cloth or tarpaulin will +serve as an adequate and comfortable tent floor. + +It is never safe or advisable for one to travel in the wilderness +alone, for a sprained ankle or broken leg in an isolated region would +be more than likely to result in death. + +In the Hudson Bay country two pounds of flour, one pound of fat pork, +with baking powder, tea and sugar, form the daily ration for a man. It +is well when possible to carry frozen fresh meat, free from bone, with +a proportion of desiccated vegetables to vary the diet. Butter makes +a tasty variety to the fat, for it will remain sweet at this season. +Prunes and chocolate are both worth while. + +Or if the journey is to be extended the menu may be simplified by +the introduction of pemmican and the elimination of other articles. +Pemmican is the best condensed food ever invented for cold weather +work. One pound of pemmican and a quarter pound of pilot biscuit, as +a daily ration, will sustain a man at hard work, though it will prove +a monotonous diet. The above is merely suggested as a basis. It may +be expanded or contracted as circumstances require without disturbing +its mean value. Let it be remembered, however, that ordinary bread and +other moist foodstuffs will freeze as hard as stone. Jerked venison +and desiccated vegetables make tasty and sustaining additions to the +ration, and will not freeze. + +A man is supposed to be able to haul at good speed upon a toboggan a +load equal to his own weight. Therefore two men, each weighing 150 +pounds, should between them haul 300 pounds. Camp equipment, tent axes, +guns, bedding, extra underclothing and all personal belongings of both, +if proper care be exercised in selection, should weigh not to exceed +140 pounds. Add 80 pounds of food, and we have 220 pounds, or a maximum +load of 110 pounds for each. The tent and general camp outfit is indeed +sufficient for four men. It is presumed that the aluminum cooking +outfit previously described will be chosen. Some eliminations, as, +for example, that of the folding baker, might easily be made without +serious loss of comfort. + +To secure the load upon the toboggan, arrange the bags in which it is +packed evenly, taking care that no part of the load extends beyond the +sides of the toboggan. Adjust the tarpaulin or canvas ground cloth +neatly over it. Secure one end of your lash rope to the side rope on +one side at the rear. Bring the other end over and under the side rope +opposite. Cross it back over the load and over and under side rope to +front of next crossbar, and so on to front crossbar, taking slack as +you proceed. From front to rear criss-cross rope in same manner over +load and under side ropes, forming diamonds where the rope crosses +itself on top of load. Bring the end of rope under side rope at rear, +take in all slack and tie. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +WITH DOGS AND KOMATIK + + +In considering equipment for dog and sledge traveling, we must +constantly bear in mind the necessity of keeping down weight and +bulk. Not long since, while visiting the establishment of a New York +City outfitter, I saw an equipment which a sportsman ambitious for +experience with dogs and komatik (sledge) had selected for a month's +journey which he was about to undertake. Exclusive of provisions there +was enough material to weight down four eight-dog teams. Among other +things was a specially designed tent stove that would have tipped the +scales at upwards of one hundred pounds. + +The would-be traveler declared with pride that he "did not intend to +have cold camps." It certainly gave me "cold feet" to contemplate his +outfit. It was the most ridiculous and impracticable conglomerate +aggregation of camping material that I have ever seen put together, +and I doubt if the would-be traveler ever found a sufficient number of +dogs at any one point to transport it. + +While it is the aim of every experienced camper to obtain the greatest +degree of comfort of which circumstances will admit, the voyager with +dogs cannot hope to carry with him the luxuries of a metropolitan +hotel, and one soon learns how little after all is really necessary to +make one comfortable. + +How much weight a team of eight good dogs can haul depends upon the +character of the country and the condition of the snow or ice. Under +very favorable conditions I have seen such a team make good progress +with twelve hundred pounds. Ordinarily, however, eight hundred pounds +is a full load, and if much rough ice, hilly country or soft snow is +encountered six hundred pounds will be found all too heavy. I have +heard of cases, when traveling was exceptionally good, of dogs covering +upwards of one hundred miles a day. The biggest day's travel I ever +made with dogs was sixty miles, but often I have toiled day after day, +pulling and hauling with the animals at the traces, lifting the komatik +over rough places, or packing a trail for the team with my snowshoes, +to find myself rewarded with less than ten miles when camping time +arrived. + +In selecting outfit the region to be visited will be a factor to take +into consideration. It would be quite impossible to discuss adequately +in a single chapter all the phases of dog travel to be provided for. +We shall therefore leave out of consideration polar outfitting, or +outfitting for other unusual work, which the reader of this will +scarcely be likely to undertake. + +The clothing suggested in the chapter on snowshoe and toboggan travel +is equally well suited to travel with dogs and komatik. Should the +voyager's ambition, however, draw him within the sub-arctic regions or +across the Arctic Circle some additional protection will be needed. + +In the far Arctic the natives wear trousers of either polar bear +skin or caribou skin, with an upper garment of caribou skin called, +in Greenland, the "kulutar;" in Labrador, the "kulutuk." The only +difference between the adickey and the kulutuk is that the one is made +of cloth, the other of caribou skin. In Ungava I supplied myself with +caribou skin trousers, which, as is the custom there, I drew on over my +moleskin trousers in windy or intensely cold weather. + +The kulutuk takes the place of the moleskin adickey. That is to +say, the kersey adickey worn under the kulutuk will be found ample +protection in any weather, and often the kulutuk of itself will be +found sufficient. + +Kulutuk and skin trousers are worn hair side out. Were they worn with +the hairy side in, they would accumulate moisture exuded by the body, +and the moisture would freeze, presently transforming the hair into a +mass of ice. A friend of mine going to the Arctic for the first time +as a member of one of Peary's early Greenland expeditions, turned his +kulutuk inside out and donned it with the hairy side next the body. +The Eskimos laughed, and resenting their levity he assured them it was +much warmer worn in that manner than as they wore it. "No," said one +of them, "if it were warmer worn that way the animals would wear their +fur inside." My friend quickly learned by experience the logic of the +Eskimo's argument. + +Deerskin kulutuk and trousers are not easily purchased, though along +any coast where seals are captured similar garments of sealskin may be +procured, which, though not equal to deerskin garments, answer very +well. The skin of the young harbor seal (the ranger seal) is best for +the purpose, as skins of other species are too thick and heavy. When +made of sealskin the upper garment is called a "netsek." + +I discovered when traveling among them that some of the Moravian +missionaries of the Labrador coast wore a buckskin suit under their +ordinary trousers and outer shirt. Such a suit is much lighter than +deerskin trousers and kulutuk, and serves nearly as well. It is not +difficult to purchase buckskin from which one may have such a suit +made. It is wind-proof and very light. + +All skin garments, including moccasins, should be sewn with animal +sinew. Ordinary thread will quickly break out and will not do. +Thread-sewn moccasins are factory-made, and will give very little +service. + +The types of snowshoes suggested in the chapter on snowshoe and +toboggan travel are the types also best suited to dog and komatik work. +Long snowshoes would be very much in the way when one has to go to the +traces and haul with the dogs or lift and assist the komatik over rough +places; and this becomes the rule rather than the exception as one goes +North. + +Let me insist that the web should be of good caribou babiche, and not +the ordinary rawhide used in many of the snowshoes offered for sale. +The former will not stretch when wet, while the latter will stretch and +bag so badly as to render the snowshoe practically useless. + +It is well to wrap the frame on either side where the babiche is +drawn around it, with buckskin or sealskin. Otherwise even a slight +crust upon the snow will in time cut the babiche strands. Wrapping the +snowshoe in this manner will at least double its life. + +What was said in reference to tent, small sheet-iron stove and general +camp and cooking outfit in the previous chapter will apply here, as +well as directions heretofore given for packing in waterproof bags. In +selecting the sleeping bag, give first preference to one of deerskin. + +In a barren region where firewood is not to be had, it will be +necessary to carry an alcohol or kerosene burner and stock of fuel. The +former is preferable on account of the low freezing point of alcohol. +Alcohol or oil should be secured in tin cases. It is regularly put up +in this way by dealers. + +In such a region, too, it may be necessary to carry snow knives with +which to cut blocks of snow for the erection of snow igloos as shelter. +These knives resemble somewhat the machete. One cannot, however, learn +to build a snow igloo properly without long practice. This phase of +the work is merely referred to as interesting; for anyone traveling +in a country where snow house shelter is necessary will secure the +assistance of a native, who will attend to proper sledge outfitting at +the point of departure. + +On regular lines of dog travel opportunities to renew the provision +supply will frequently occur, and cabins for night shelter will be +found. Therefore the food outfit will depend upon the country to be +traversed. Where long stretches occur between supply points, however, +fat pork, pilot bread, tea and sugar should form the basis. The very +best possible food, however, for this work is pemmican, pilot bread, +tea and sugar. Of course a little coffee may be carried, but it is +bulky. + +The traveler will make his selection carefully, building around pork, +pilot bread and pemmican with other articles of food like desiccated +vegetables from which water has been eliminated. Too much salt meat +opens the door to scurvy, unless sufficient variation in the way of +vegetables, fish, or fresh meat is introduced. Dessicated cranberries +are an excellent preventive. A man can do good hard work day in and day +out, as already stated, upon one pound of pemmican and a quarter pound +of pilot bread as a daily ration, and such a ration offers no danger of +scurvy. + +Dog pemmican is the best dog food, and the lightest, for dogs will +do pretty well upon one pound of pemmican each a day. To do well +the animals should be given plenty of fat, when pemmican is not +available, though not a clear fat diet, for that will make them sick. +Three-quarters of a pound of fat and three-quarters of a pound of meat +or fish is an ordinary ration. Dogs are fed but once a day--at night. + +The number of dogs in a team varies, but the average team is composed +of seven or eight. Eight or nine is the most economical number so far +as results are concerned. + +In the Northwest dogs are harnessed tandem. This is the white man's +method. In the Northeast they are harnessed fan fashion--the Eskimo +method. That is to say, each dog has an individual trace secured to +the end of a single thong, leading out from the bow of the komatik and +called the bridle. The individual traces are of various lengths. The +dog with the longest trace is the leader of the pack, and particularly +trained to respond to the driver's directions. The other dogs will +follow his lead. + +For open country and sea ice travel the Eskimo method is probably best, +as the work is more evenly distributed and the driver can always tell +whether each dog is doing his share of the work, but for narrow trails +and woods travel the tandem method is more practicable. + +Dogs are good, bad and indifferent. One seldom has an opportunity +to pick one's dogs discriminately, and rarely may one purchase them +outright unless contracted for a year in advance, for the native dog +owner seldom maintains animals in excess of his requirements in the +ordinary routine of his life. The traveler will usually be able, +however, to hire a team by employing the owner to drive it, and the +owner of a team will get much more work out of his dogs than a stranger +to the dogs can hope to do. + +At least a year's experience is necessary to enable a white man to +handle a dog team with anything approaching efficiency, and even then +one cannot hope to approach the performance of an Eskimo. The failure +to enlist Eskimos as dog drivers has been the real cause of the failure +of many an Arctic expedition. + +It is advised, then, that the traveler employ at so much per day or for +the trip driver and dogs. It is an unsafe experiment to start off with +a dog team unattended by an experienced man. The owner of the team will +supply also the necessary dog harness, his own dog whip and general dog +traveling paraphernalia, including the komatik. + +Sledges or komatiks vary in different localities as to width, length +and minor methods of construction. The average komatik is two +feet wide and ten feet long but as stated, they vary in different +localities, a uniform width being maintained to suit the local +conditions of the region in which they are used. For example, wide and +comparatively short komatiks are employed in Quebec, while the Ungava +komatik is but sixteen inches wide. These latter komatiks are usually +fifteen or sixteen feet in length, however. The runners stand ten +inches high. This is, in fact, the heaviest and most efficient komatik +I have ever seen. Each runner is made from a single piece of timber +and is from two and one-half to three inches thick. It is designed for +the roughest possible use, and is, I believe, better adapted to this +purpose than the Greenland komatik because more substantially built. +The latter is peculiar in that it has upstands at the rear for guiding +it. + +Crossbars, extending an inch or so on either side of the runners and +from one to two inches apart, are lashed into place with rawhide. When +the rawhide shrinks the komatik becomes firm. Iron fastenings being +rigid would break too readily, particularly in intense cold, to be +reliable. + +The traveler will do well, therefore, to purchase if he does not hire +his komatik at the point of departure, as in so doing he will secure +one of correct design for the region to be traversed. + +It is well to have a box made the width of the komatik two or three +feet long, and about fourteen inches deep to lash upon the rear end of +the komatik in which cooking utensils and a portion of the food supply, +as well as odds and ends, may be carried. This should be supplied with +a hinged cover, and hook or clasp by which the cover may be securely +fastened down. + +The best lash for securing the load in position is one of sealskin, +though ordinary hemp rope will do. Before lashing, the tarpaulin should +be neatly folded over the top of load to protect it. + +One end of the lash is secured to an end of the crossbar at the forward +end of the load, brought across the load and under the other end, then +across, skipping a couple of crossbars, and back again skipping a couple +of crossbars, thus threading it from side to side under the ends of +every second or third crossbar to the rear bar, where it is brought +across the load to the opposite end of this crossbar and crisscrossed +across the load again to the forward crossbar to be tied. + + +THE END + + + + +Transcriber's note: + +Inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been retained. +Punctuation has been normalized. + +The following errors have been corrected: + + * p. 46 "two or three hundreds" fixed to "... hundred" + * p. 51 Chapter VII: fixed numbering of topics + * p. 72 carelessless -> carelessness + * p. 85 change A_1 to A´ to match the illustration + * p. 87 graps -> grasps + * p. 88 "betwee nthem" -> "between them" + * p. 90 fixed period instead of comma + * p. 90 graps -> grasps + * p. 119 removed redundant "of" + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Packing and Portaging, by Dillon Wallace + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44720 *** diff --git a/44720-h/44720-h.htm b/44720-h/44720-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..21165d9 --- /dev/null +++ b/44720-h/44720-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,4104 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" +"http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html lang="en" xml:lang="en" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> +<head> +<meta content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" http-equiv="Content-Type" /> +<meta content="text/css" http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" /> +<title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Packing and Portaging, by Dillon Wallace. +</title> +<link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> +<style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin: auto 10%; +} + +h1,h2,h3 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +table {} + +table td { + padding-right: 2em; +} + +table.toc { + margin: 0 auto; +} + +table.toc th { + font-size:x-small; + text-align:left; +} + +.titlepage { + page-break-before: always; + page-break-after: always; +} + +.titlepage p { + text-align: center; + line-height: 1.5 +} + +.ph1, .ph2, .ph3 { font-weight: bold; } +.ph1 { font-size: xx-large; } +.ph2 { font-size: x-large; } +.ph3 { font-size: large; } +.ph4 { font-size: small; } + +p { + margin-top: .51em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .49em; +} + +.list { + padding-left: 0; + margin-left: 1em; + font-size: smaller; +} + +ul { + list-style-type: none; +} + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: 33.5%; + margin-right: 33.5%; + clear: both; +} + +hr.rights { + width: 20%; + margin-left: 40%; + margin-right: 40%; + +} + +hr.chap { + width: 65%; + margin-left: 17%; + margin-right: 17%; + +} + +.tdr {text-align: right;} + +.pagenum { + visibility: hidden; + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; +} /* page numbers */ + +.center {text-align: center;} +.narrow { + max-width: 20em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; +} + +.dimension {white-space:nowrap;} + +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} +.allcap {text-transform: uppercase;} + +.caption { + text-align: justify; + font-size: smaller; + page-break-before: avoid; +} + +.caption .cols { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + max-width: 20em; + text-align:left; +} + +/* Images */ +.figcenter { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + margin-top: 1em; + text-align: center; +} + +.illustration { + max-width: 400px; +} + +/* drop cap */ +p.drop-cap { + text-indent: 0em; +} +p.drop-cap:first-letter +{ + float: left; + margin: 0.05em 0.1em 0em 0em; + font-size: 250%; + line-height:0.85em; +} +@media handheld +{ + p.drop-cap:first-letter + { + float: none; + margin: 0; + font-size: 100%; + } +} + +/* Transcriber's notes */ +.transnote { + background-color: #E6E6FA; + color: black; + font-size:smaller; + padding:0.5em; + margin-bottom:5em; + font-family:sans-serif, serif; +} +</style> +</head> + +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44720 ***</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1" name="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> + +<h1>PACKING AND PORTAGING</h1> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="cover" /> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2" name="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a><br /><a id="Page_3" name="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p> + +<div class="titlepage"> + + <p class="ph1">PACKING AND<br /> + PORTAGING</p> + + <p class="ph3">BY<br /> + <span class="ph2">DILLON WALLACE</span></p> + + <p class="center narrow">Author of "The Lure of the Labrador Wild," "The + Long Labrador Trail," "Saddle and Camp in + the Rockies," "Across the Mexican + Sierras," etc.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <img src="images/03a.png" alt="OUTING HANDBOOKS" /> + </div> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <img src="images/03b.png" alt="" /> + </div> + + <p class="ph4">NEW YORK<br /> + <span class="ph3">OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY</span><br /> + MCMXII </p> + + <p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4" name="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span></p> + + <hr class="chap" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Copyright, 1912, by</span><br /> + <span class="ph3">OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY</span></p> + + <hr class="rights" /> + + <p class="ph4">All rights reserved + </p> + +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5" name="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CONTENTS" name="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</a></h2> + +<table class="toc" summary="TOC"> + <tr> + <th>CHAPTER</th><th></th><th>PAGE</th> + </tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">I.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_I"><span class="smcap">Packing and the Outfit</span></a></td><td class="tdr">9</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">II.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_II"><span class="smcap">The Canoe and Its Equipment</span></a></td><td class="tdr">12</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">III.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_III"><span class="smcap">Camp Equipment for the Canoe Trip</span></a></td><td class="tdr">15</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">IV.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><span class="smcap">Personal Equipment</span></a></td><td class="tdr">23</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">V.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_V"><span class="smcap">Food</span></a></td><td class="tdr">31</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">VI.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><span class="smcap">The Portage</span></a></td><td class="tdr">38</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">VII.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><span class="smcap">Travel with Saddle and Pack Animals</span></a></td><td class="tdr">51</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">VIII.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><span class="smcap">Saddle and Pack Equipment</span></a></td><td class="tdr">56</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">IX.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><span class="smcap">Personal Outfit for the Saddle</span></a></td><td class="tdr">64</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">X.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_X"><span class="smcap">Adjusting the Pack</span></a></td><td class="tdr">71</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">XI.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XI"><span class="smcap">Some Practical Hitches</span></a></td><td class="tdr">77</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">XII.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XII"><span class="smcap">Traveling Without a Pack Horse</span></a></td><td class="tdr">101</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">XIII.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII"><span class="smcap">Afoot in Summer</span></a></td><td class="tdr">106</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">XIV.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV"><span class="smcap">With Snowshoes and Toboggan</span></a></td><td class="tdr">110</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">XV.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XV"><span class="smcap">With Dogs and Komatik</span></a></td><td class="tdr">123</td></tr> +</table> +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6" name="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a><br /><a id="Page_7" name="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="ILLUSTRATIONS" name="ILLUSTRATIONS">ILLUSTRATIONS</a></h2> + +<table class="toc" summary="List of illustrations"> + <tr> + <th></th> <th>PAGE</th> + </tr> + + <tr><td><a href="#i58">Method of Slinging Load on Aparejo</a></td><td class="tdr">58, 59</td></tr> + + <tr><td><a href="#i74">Sling for Racking on Crosstree Saddle</a></td><td class="tdr">74</td></tr> + + <tr><td><a href="#i79">Squaw or Crosstree Hitch</a></td><td class="tdr">79, 80</td></tr> + + <tr><td><a href="#i82">The Crosstree Diamond Hitch</a></td><td class="tdr">82, 83</td></tr> + + <tr><td><a href="#i85">United States Army Diamond Hitch</a></td><td class="tdr">85, 86</td></tr> + + <tr><td><a href="#i93">Lifting Hitch</a></td><td class="tdr">93, 94</td></tr> + + <tr><td><a href="#i96">Stirrup Hitch</a></td><td class="tdr">96</td></tr> + + <tr><td><a href="#i97">Saddle Hitch</a></td><td class="tdr">97</td></tr> +</table> +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8" name="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a><br /><a id="Page_9" name="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p> + +<p class="center ph1">PACKING AND PORTAGING</p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_I" name="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a><br /><br /> +PACKING AND THE OUTFIT</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">Ordinarily</span> the verb <i>to pack</i> means +to stow articles snugly into receptacles, +but in the parlance of the trail it often +means to carry or transport the articles from +place to place. The <i>pack</i> in the language of +the trail is the load a man or horse carries.</p> + +<p>Likewise, a <i>portage</i> on a canoe route is a +break between navigable waters, over which +canoe and outfit must be carried; or the word +may be used as a verb, and one may say, "I +will portage the canoe," meaning "I will carry +the canoe." In the course of the following +pages these terms will doubtless all be used in +their various significations.</p> + +<p>Save for the few who are able to employ a +retinue of professional guides and packers to +attend to the details of transportation, the one<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10" name="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> +chief problem that confronts the wilderness +traveler is that of how to reduce the weight +of his outfit to the minimum with the least +possible sacrifice of comfort. It is only the +veriest tenderfoot that deliberately endures +hardships or discomforts where hardships and +discomforts are unnecessary. Experienced +wilderness travelers always make themselves +as comfortable as conditions will permit, and +there is no reason why one who hits the trail +for sport, recreation or health should do otherwise.</p> + +<p>In a description, then, of the methods of +packing and transporting outfits the tenderfoot +and even the man whose feet are becoming calloused +may welcome some hints as to the selection +of compact, light, but, at the same time, efficient +outfits. These hints on outfitting, therefore, +I shall give, leaving out of consideration +the details of camp making, camp cookery and +those phases of woodcraft that have no direct +bearing upon the prime question of packing and +transportation on the trail.</p> + +<p>Let us classify the various methods of wilderness +travel under the following heads: 1. +By Canoe; 2. With Saddle and Pack Animals; +3. Afoot in Summer; 4. On Snowshoes; 5. +With Dogs and Sledge. Taking these in order, +and giving our attention first to canoe<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11" name="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> +travel, it will be found convenient further to +subdivide this branch of the subject and discuss +in order: (a) The Canoe and its Equipment; +(b) Camp Equipment for a Canoe +Trip; (c) Personal Equipment; (d) Food; +(e) The Portage.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12" name="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_II" name="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a><br /><br /> + THE CANOE AND ITS EQUIPMENT</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">A sixteen-foot</span> canoe with a width +of at least 33 inches and a depth of at +least 12 inches will accommodate two +men, an adequate camping outfit and a full ten +weeks' provisions very nicely, and at the same +time not lie too deep in the water. A fifteen-foot +canoe, unless it has a beam of at least 35 +inches and a depth of 12 inches or more, is +unsuitable. Three men with their outfit and +provisions will require an eighteen-foot canoe +with a width of 35 inches or more and a depth +of no less than 13 inches, or a seventeen-foot +canoe with a width of 37 inches and 13 inches +deep. The latter size is lighter by from ten +to fifteen pounds than the former, while the +displacement is about equal.</p> + +<p>The best all-around canoe for cruising and +hard usage is the canvas-covered cedar canoe. +Both ribs and planking should be of cedar, and +only full length planks should enter into the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13" name="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> +construction. Where short planking is used +the canoe will sooner or later become hogged—that +is, the ends will sag downward from the +middle.</p> + +<p>In Canada the "Peterborough" canoe is +more largely used than the canvas-covered. +These are to be had in both basswood and +cedar. Cedar is brittle, while basswood is +tough, but the latter absorbs water more readily +than the former and in time will become +more or less waterlogged.</p> + +<p>Cruising canoes should be supplied with a +middle thwart for convenient portaging. Any +canoe larger than sixteen feet should have +three thwarts. To lighten weight on the portage, +and provide more room for storing outfit, +it is advisable to remove the cane seats with +which canvas canoes are usually provided. +This can be readily done by unscrewing the +nuts beneath the gunwale which hold the seats +in position.</p> + +<p>Good strong paddles—sufficiently strong to +withstand the heavy strain to which cruising +paddles are put—should be selected. On the +portage they must bear the full weight of the +canoe; they will frequently be utilized in poling +up stream against stiff currents; and in running +rapids they will be subjected to rough +usage. On extended cruises it is advisable to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14" name="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> +carry one spare paddle to take the place of +one that may be rendered useless.</p> + +<p>Experienced canoemen pole up minor rapids. +Poles for this purpose can usually be cut at the +point where they are needed, but pole "shoes"—that +is, spikes fitted with ferrules—to fit on +the ends of poles are a necessary adjunct to +the outfit where poling is to be done. Without +shoes to hold the pole firmly on the bottom +of the stream the pole may slip and pitch +the canoeman overboard. The ferrules should +be punctured with at least two nail holes, by +which they may be secured to the poles, and +a few nails should be carried for this purpose.</p> + +<p>A hundred feet or so of half-inch rope +should also be provided, to be used as a tracking +line and the various other uses for which +rope may be required.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15" name="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_III" name="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a><br /><br /> +CAMP EQUIPMENT FOR A CANOE TRIP</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">Personal</span> likes and prejudices have +much to do with the form of tent chosen. +My own preference is for either the "A" +or wedge tent, with the Hudson's Bay model as +second choice, for general utility. Either of +these is particularly adapted also to winter +travel where the tent must often be pitched +upon the snow. If, however, the tent is only +to be used in summer, and particularly in canoe +travel where a light, easily erected model is +desired, the Frazer tent is both ideal for comfort +and is an exceedingly light weight model +for portaging.</p> + +<p>Duck or drill tents are altogether too heavy +and quite out of date. They soak water and +are an abomination on the portage. The best +tent is one of balloon silk, <i>tanalite</i>, or of extra +light green waterproofed tent cloth. The balloon +silk tent is very slightly heavier than +either of the others, but is exceedingly durable. +For instance, a <span class="dimension">7<sup>1</sup>/<sub>3</sub> × 7<sup>1</sup>/<sub>3</sub></span> foot "A" tent of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16" name="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> +either tanalite or extra light green waterproof +tent cloth, fitted with sod cloth, complete, +weighs eight pounds, while a similar tent of +waterproof balloon silk weighs nine pounds. +A Hudson's Bay model, <span class="dimension">6 × 9</span> feet, weighs respectively +seven and seven and one-half pounds.</p> + +<p>These three cloths are not only waterproof +and practically rot proof, but do not soak +water, which is a feature for consideration +where much portaging is to be done and camp +is moved almost daily.</p> + +<p>Some dealers recommend that customers +going into a fly or mosquito country have +the tent door fitted with bobbinet. The idea +is good, but cheese cloth is much cheaper and +incomparably better than bobbinet.</p> + +<p>The cheese-cloth door should be made rather +full, and divided at the center from tent peak +to ground, with numerous tie strings to bring +the edges tight together when in use, and other +strings or tapes on either side, where it is attached +to the tent, to reef or roll and tie it back +out of the way when not needed.</p> + +<p>When purchasing a light-weight tent, see +that the dealer supplies a bag of proper size +in which to pack it.</p> + +<p>A pack cloth <span class="dimension">6 × 7</span> feet in size, of brown +waterproof canvas weighing about 3<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> pounds, +makes an excellent covering for the tent floor<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17" name="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> +at night. On the portage blankets and odds +and ends will be packed and carried on it. If +one end and the two sides of the pack cloth +are fitted with snap buttons it may be converted +into a snug sleeping bag with a pair of blankets +folded lengthwise, the bottom and sides +of the blanket secured with blanket safety pins +as a lining for the bag.</p> + +<p>My standby for summer camping is a fine +all-wool gray blanket <span class="dimension">72 × 78</span> inches in size +and weighing 5<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> pounds. This I have found +sufficient even in frosty autumn weather—always, +in fact, until the weather grows cold +enough to freeze streams and close them to +canoe navigation. Used as a lining for the +improvised pack cloth sleeping bag, this blanket +is quite bedding enough and makes an exceedingly +comfortable bed, too.</p> + +<p>A three-quarter axe with a 24- or 28-inch +handle makes a mighty good camp axe. A +full axe is heavy and inconvenient to portage +and the lighter axe will serve every purpose in +any country at any time. Personally I favor +the Hudson's Bay axe. This may be had fitted +either with a 24-inch or 18-inch handle. In +the two-party outfit which we are discussing +there should be two axes, one of which may +be fitted with the shorter handle, but the other +should have at least a 24- and preferably a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18" name="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> +28-inch handle. Every axe should have a +leather sheath or scabbard for convenient packing. +The so-called pocket axes are too small +to be of practical use. The camper does not +wish to miss the luxury of the big evening +camp-fire, and he can never provide for it with +a small hatchet or toy pocket axe.</p> + +<p>Cooking utensils of aluminum alloy are the +lightest and best for the trail. Tin and iron +will rust, enamel ware will chip, and unalloyed +aluminum is too soft and bends out of shape. +The best sporting goods dealers carry complete +outfits of aluminum alloy. I have used them +in the frigid North and in the tropics, in canoe, +sledging, tramping and horseback journeys, +and can recommend them unequivocally, save +perhaps the frying pan.</p> + +<p>The two-man cooking and dining outfit +should contain the following utensils:</p> + +<ul class="list"> + <li>1 Pot with cover <span class="dimension">7 × 6<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inches, capacity three quarts.</li> + <li>1 Coffee pot <span class="dimension">6 × 6<sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inches, capacity two quarts.</li> + <li>1 Steel frying pan <span class="dimension">9<sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub> × 2</span> inches, with folding handle.</li> + <li>1 Pan <span class="dimension">9 × 3</span> inches, with folding handle, for mixing- and dish-pan.</li> + <li>2 Plates 8<sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub> inches diameter.</li> + <li>2 Cups.</li> + <li>2 Aluminum alloy forks.</li> + <li>2 Dessert spoons.</li> + <li>1 Large cooking spoon.</li> + <li>1 Dish mop.</li> + <li>2 Dish towels.</li> +</ul> + +<p>The regular aluminum alloy cup is too<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19" name="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> +small for practical camp use. There is an +aluminum bowl, however, holding one pint, but +without a handle. This is about the right size +for a practical cup, and I have a handle riveted +on it and use it as a cup. The top only of the +handle should be attached, that the cups may +set one inside the other. The heat conducting +quality of aluminum makes it a question +whether or not enamel cups are not preferable.</p> + +<p>To pack the outfit snugly, set the mixing pan +into the frying pan, the handles of both pans +folded, place the plates, one on top of the +other, in the mixing pan, the cooking pot on +top of these, and the coffee pot inside the cooking +pot. The cups will fit in the coffee pot. +The weight of this outfit complete is 5<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> +pounds.</p> + +<p>A waterproof canvas bag of proper size +should be provided in which to pack the utensils. +Forks and spoons, wrapped in a dish +towel, will fit nicely in the canvas bag alongside +the pots.</p> + +<p><i>Waterproof</i> canvas is suggested for the bag, +not to protect the utensils but because anything +but waterproofed material will absorb +moisture and become watersoaked in rainy +weather, adding materially to the weight of +the outfit.</p> + +<p>One of the handiest aids to baking is the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20" name="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> +aluminum reflecting baker. An aluminum +baker <span class="dimension">16 × 18</span> inches when open, folds to a +package <span class="dimension">12 × 18</span> inches and about two inches +thick, and fitted into a waterproof canvas case +weighs, case and all, about four pounds.</p> + +<p>Broilers, fire irons, fire blowers or inspirators, +as they are sometimes called, and many +other things that are convenient enough but +quite unnecessary, should never burden the outfit. +Even though the weight of some of them +may be insignificant, each additional claptrap +makes one more thing to look after. There +are a thousand and one claptraps, indeed, that +outfitters offer, but which do not possess sufficient +advantage to pay for the care and labor +of transportation, and my advice is, leave them +out, one and all.</p> + +<p>Outfitters supply small packing bags of +proper size to fit, one on top of another, into +larger waterproof canvas bags. These small +bags are made preferably of balloon silk. By +using them the whole outfit may be snugly and +safely packed for the portage.</p> + +<p>In one of these small bags keep the general +supply of matches, though each canoeist should +carry a separate supply for emergency in his +individual kit.</p> + +<p>In like manner two or three cakes of soap +should be packed in another small bag. Float<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21" name="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>ing +soap is less likely to be lost than soap that +sinks.</p> + +<p>A dozen candles will be quite enough. +These if packed in a tin box of proper size +will not be broken.</p> + +<p>Repair kits should be provided. A file for +sharpening axes and a whetstone for general +use are of the first importance. Include also +a pair of pincers, a ball of stout twine and a +few feet of copper wire. A tool haft or handle +with a variety of small tools inside is convenient. +Either a stick of canoe cement, a +small supply of marine glue, or a canoe repair +outfit such as canoe manufacturers put up and +which contain canvas, white lead, copper tacks, +calor and varnish will be found a valuable adjunct +to the outfit should the canoe become +damaged. This tool and repair equipment +should be packed in a strong canvas bag small +enough to drop into the larger nine-inch waterproof +bag.</p> + +<p>A small leather medicine case with vials +containing, in tabloid form, a cathartic, an +astringent (lead and opium pills are good) +and bichloride of mercury, suffices for the +drug supply. Surgical necessities are: Some +antiseptic bandages, a package of linen gauze, +a spool of adhesive plaster and one-eighth +pound of absorbent cotton, wrapped in oiled<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22" name="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> +silk. In addition most campers find it convenient +to have in their personal outfit a pair +of small scissors. These are absolutely necessary +if one is to put on a bandage properly. +The regular surgical scissors, the two blades of +which hook together at the center, are the +most convenient sort, both to use and to carry, +and have the keenest edge.</p> + +<p>A pair of tweezers takes up but little room +and is useful for extracting splinters or for +holding a wad of absorbent cotton in swabbing +out a wound, as cotton will, of course, become +septic if held in the fingers.</p> + +<p>A small scalpel is better than the knife blade +for opening up an infection, as it is more convenient +to handle and will make a deep short +incision when desired. These will all be +packed in one of the small balloon silk bags.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23" name="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_IV" name="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a><br /><br /> +PERSONAL EQUIPMENT</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">Each</span> canoeist should have a personal +kit or duffle bag of waterproof canvas. +These may be purchased from outfitters +and are usually 36 inches deep and of 12, 15, +18 or 21 inches diameter. The 12-inch bag, +however, is amply large to accommodate all +one needs in the way of clothing and other personal +gear. This, as well as every other +waterproof canvas packing bag mentioned, excepting +the cooking kit bag, should be supplied +with a handle on the bottom and one on the +side. These bags not only keep the contents +dry, but, as previously stated, do not absorb +moisture to add to the weight, a very essential +feature where every unnecessary pound +must be eliminated. I was once capsized in a +rapid and my duffle bag lay half a day in the +water before it was recovered. The contents +were perfectly dry.</p> + +<p>One suit of medium weight woolen underclothing +in addition to the suit worn is ample<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24" name="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> +for a short trip. Four extra pairs of thick +woolen socks should be provided—the home-knit +kind. An excellent material for trousers +to be worn on the trail is moleskin, though for +midsummer wear a good quality khaki is first +rate. Moleskin, however, will withstand the +hardest usage and to my mind is superior to +khaki or any other material where wading is +necessary and on cold or rainy days, as it is +very nearly windproof. A good leather belt +should be worn, even though suspenders support +the trousers.</p> + +<p>The outer shirt should be of light weight +gray or brown flannel and provided with pockets. +A blue flannel shirt of the best quality +is all right. The cheaper qualities of blue +crock, and this feature makes them objectionable. +If the outer shirt is too heavy it will be +found cumbersome under the exertion of the +portage.</p> + +<p>A large, roomy Pontiac shirt to slip over the +outer shirt and use as a sweater is much preferable +to a sweater on the trail. It is windproof +and warm. Do not take a coat—the +Pontiac shirt will be both coat and sweater. +A coat is always in the way on a canoe trip +and makes the pack that much heavier.</p> + +<p>A pair of low leather or canvas wading +shoes for river work and larrigans or shoe<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25" name="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> +pacs for ordinary wear, large enough to admit +two pairs of woolen socks, are best suited to +canoeing. Heavy, hobnailed mountaineer +shoes or boots are not in place here.</p> + +<p>Heavy German socks, supplied with garter +and clasp to hold them in position, are better +than canvas leggings, and protect the legs from +chill at times when wading is necessary in icy +waters.</p> + +<p>Any kind of an old slouch hat is suitable.</p> + +<p>Some canoeists take with them a suit of +featherweight oilskin. Personally I have +never worn rainproof garments when canoeing. +Once I carried a so-called waterproof +coat, but it was not waterproof. It leaked +water like a sieve, and was no protection even +from the gentlest shower. I am inclined, however, +to favor featherweight oilskins, though +not while portaging—they would be found too +warm—but when paddling in rainy weather, +or to wear on rainy days about camp.</p> + +<p>If the trip is to extend into a black fly or +mosquito region, protection against the insects +should be provided. A head net of black bobbinet +that will set down upon the shoulders, +with strings to tie under the arms, is about the +best arrangement for the head. Old loose kid +gloves, with the fingers cut off, and farmers' +satin elbow sleeves to fit under the wrist bands<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26" name="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> +of the outer shirt will protect the wrists and +hands. The armlets should be well and tightly +sewn upon the gloves, for black flies are not +content to attack where they alight, and will +explore for the slightest opening and discover +some undefended spot. They are, too, a hundred +times more vicious than mosquitoes.</p> + +<p>There are many receipts for fly dope, but in +a half hour after application perspiration will +eliminate the virtue of most mixtures and a +renewed application must be made. Nessmuk's +receipt is perhaps as good as any, and +the formula is as follows:</p> + +<table summary="Ingredients" class="list"> +<tr><td>Oil of pine tar</td><td>3 parts</td></tr> +<tr><td>Castor oil</td><td>2 parts</td></tr> +<tr><td>Oil of pennyroyal</td><td>1 part</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>If when you were a child your father held +your nose as an inducement for you to open +your mouth while your mother poured castor +oil down your throat, the odor of the castor +oil rising above the odors of the other ingredients +will revive sad memories. Indeed it is +claimed for this mixture that the dead will +rise and flee from its compounded odor as they +would flee from eternal torment. It certainly +should ward off such little creatures as black +flies and mosquitoes.</p> + +<p>Another effective mixture is:</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27" name="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p> + +<table summary="Ingredients" class="list"> +<tr><td>Oil of tar</td><td>3 parts</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sweet oil</td><td>3 parts</td></tr> +<tr><td>Oil of pennyroyal</td><td>1 part</td></tr> +<tr><td>Carbolic acid</td><td>3 per cent.</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>An Indian advised me once to carry a fat +salt pork rind in my pocket, and now and again +rub the greasy side upon face and hands. I +tried it and found it nearly as good as the +dopes.</p> + +<p>Unless one penetrates, however, far north +In Canada during black fly season these extraordinary +precautions will scarcely be necessary. +There Is nowhere In the United States +a region where black flies are really very bad +(though perhaps I am drawing invidious comparisons +in making the statement), and even +in interior Newfoundland they are, compared +with the farther north, tame and rather inoffensive +though always troublesome.</p> + +<p>The choice of fishing tackle, guns and arms +depends largely upon personal taste. Steel +rods of the best quality will serve better than +split bamboo on an extended trip where one, +continuously on the portage trail, is often unable +to properly dry the tackle. The steady +soaking of a split bamboo rod for a week is +likely to loosen the sections and injure a fine +rod. A waterproof canvas or pantasote case<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28" name="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> +is the right sort for the rod—leather cases are +unpractical on a cruising trip.</p> + +<p>Leather gun cases, too, under like circumstances +will become watersoaked, and under +any circumstances they are unnecessarily +heavy. Use canvas cases therefore in consideration +for your back. They are light and in +a season of rain immeasurably better than +leather.</p> + +<p>Economize, also, on ammunition. Do your +target practice before you hit the trail. A +hunter that cannot get his limit of big game +with twenty rifle cartridges is an unsafe individual +to turn loose in the woods.</p> + +<p>For spruce grouse, ptarmigan and other +small game a ten-inch barrel, 22-caliber single-shot +pistol is an excellent arm, provided one +has had some previous experience in its use. +It is not a burden on the belt, and a handful of +cartridges in the pocket are not noticed.</p> + +<p>Pack your cartridges in a strong canvas bag, +your gun grease and accessories in another receptacle.</p> + +<p>On the belt also carry a broad-pointed four-inch +blade skinning knife of the ordinary +butcher knife shape. This will be your table +knife, as well as cooking and general utility +knife.</p> + +<p>In the pocket carry a stout jackknife, a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29" name="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> +waterproof matchbox, always kept well filled, +and a compass.</p> + +<p>A film camera is more practical for the trail +than a plate camera for many reasons, one of +which is weight. Plates are heavy and easily +broken. It is well to have each roll of films +put up separately in a sealed, water-tight tin. +Dealers will supply them thus at five cents extra +for each film roll. A waterproof pantasote +case, too, is better than leather, for leather in a +long-continued rain will become watersoaked, +as before stated.</p> + +<p>If a plate camera is carried the plates may +be packed in a small light wooden box—a +starch box, for instance. The box will protect +them under ordinary circumstances. Film rolls, +however, may be carried in a small canvas bag +that will slip into one of the larger waterproof +bags.</p> + +<p>My object in outlining outfit is rather to emphasize +the possibilities of selecting a light and +efficient outfit that may be easily packed and +transported on the trail, than to evolve an infallible +check list; therefore I shall not attempt +to name in detail toilet articles, tobacco and +odds and ends. Take nothing, however, save +those things you will surely find occasion to +use, unless I may suggest an extra pipe, should +your pipe be lost. A small balloon silk bag will<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30" name="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> +hold them, together with a sewing case containing +needles, thread, patches and some safety +pins. Another will hold the hand towels and +hand soap in daily use, while an extra hand +towel may be stowed in your duffle bag.</p> + +<p>In concluding this chapter it may be pertinent +to say that the novice on the trail is pretty +certain to burden himself with many things he +will seldom or never use. Take your outfitter +into your confidence. Tell him what sort of a +trip you contemplate and he will advise you. +First-class outfitters are usually practical out-of-door +men and camping experts. They have +made an extended study of the subject, for it +is part of their business to do so. Therefore, +in selecting outfit, it is both safe and wise to +rely upon the advice of any responsible outfitter.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31" name="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_V" name="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a><br /><br /> +FOOD</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">The</span> true wilderness voyager is willing to +endure some discomforts on the trail, +to work hard and submit to black flies +and other pests, but as a reward he usually demands +satisfying meals. There is, indeed, no +reason for him to deny himself a variety and +a plenty, unless his trip is to extend into months. +Weight on the portage trail is always the consideration +that cuts down the ration. Packing +on one's back a ration to be used two or three +months hence is discouraging.</p> + +<p>I have evolved a two-week food supply for +two men, based upon the United States army +ration, varied as the result of my own experiences +have dictated. It offers not only great +variety, but is an exceedingly bountiful ration +even for hungry men. Personal taste will suggest +some eliminations or substitutions that +may be made without material loss or change in +weight. If there is certainty of catching fish +or killing game, or if opportunity offers for +purchasing fresh supplies along the trail, re<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32" name="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>ductions +in quantity may be made accordingly. +For each additional man, or for any period beyond +two weeks, a proportionate increase in +quantity may be made.</p> + +<ul class="list"> + <li>Bacon, 6 pounds.</li> + <li>Salt fat pork, 2 pounds.</li> + <li>Ham or canned meats, 5 pounds.</li> + <li>"Truegg" (egg powder), 1 pound (equals 4 dozen eggs.)</li> + <li>"Trucream" (milk powder), 1<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> pounds.</li> + <li>"Crisco," 3 pounds, (2 cans).</li> + <li>Fresh bread, 2 pounds.</li> + <li>Flour, 12 pounds.</li> + <li>Corn meal (yellow), 1 pound.</li> + <li>Rolled oats, 1 pound.</li> + <li>Rice, 1 pound.</li> + <li>Baking powder, <sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> pound.</li> + <li>Potatoes (Dehydrated) riced, 2 pounds (equals 14 lbs. fresh potatoes).</li> + <li>Potatoes (Dehydrated) sliced, 1 pound (equals 7 lbs. fresh potatoes).</li> + <li>Carrots (Dehydrated), <sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub> pound (equals 3 lbs. fresh carrots).</li> + <li>Onions (Dehydrated), <sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub> pound (equals 3<sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub> lbs. fresh onions).</li> + <li>Cranberries (Dehydrated), <sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub> pound (equals 2<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> qts. fresh fruit).</li> + <li>Beans, 2 pounds.</li> + <li>Green peas (Dehydrated), <sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub> pound (equals 1<sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub> lbs. fresh peas).</li> + <li>Coffee (ground), 2 pounds.</li> + <li>Tea, <sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> pound.</li> + <li>Cocoa, <sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> pound.</li> + <li>Sugar (granulated), 5 pounds.</li> + <li>Preserves, 1 pound.</li> + <li>Lemons, <sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> dozen.</li> + <li>Lime tablets, <sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> pound.</li> + <li>Prunes (stoned), 1 pound.</li> + <li>Raisins, 1 pound.</li> + <li>Salt, 1 pound.</li> + <li>Pepper, <sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub> ounce.</li> +</ul> + +<p>This gives each man a nominal ration of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33" name="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> +14<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> pounds a week, or about two pounds +a day. In reality, however, it is more bountiful +than the summer garrison ration and far more +liberal than the summer marching ration of the +army. This is brought about by the pretty +general elimination of water, largely through +the substitution of dehydrated vegetables and +fruits for fresh and canned goods. The dehydrated +products designated are in every particular +equal to fresh products and far superior +to canned goods. Dehydrated vegetables +possess all the qualities, in fact, of fresh vegetables, +with only the large percentage of water +removed. Water is introduced restoring them +to original form usually by boiling. No chemical +is used as a preservative as is the case with +all dried vegetables put up by foreign manufacturers.</p> + +<p>It will be noticed that butter has been omitted +and that "Crisco" has been introduced in +the place of lard and to be used in cooking instead +of butter. Crisco is a product of edible +vegetable oils. It has the appearance of lard +but can be heated to a much higher temperature +without burning, is fully equal to butter when +used as shortening, and dough bread, fish or +other articles of food fried in it will not absorb +it so readily as they will lard, nor will it +transmit the flavor of one food to another. For<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34" name="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> +example, fish may be fried in Crisco, and dough +bread or anything else fried in the same Crisco +will have not the slightest flavor of fish. It +will keep fresh and sweet under conditions that +turn lard and butter rancid. Butter quickly +becomes strong, and the heat of the sun keeps +it in an oily, unpalatable condition, even when +packed in air-tight tins. The most lavish user +of butter will discover that it is no hardship to +go without it when in camp. Crisco, put up +in handy, friction-top cans, can be purchased +from nearly any grocer.</p> + +<p>Coffee should be carried in friction-top tins. +On extended trips coffee is too bulky to carry +save as a special treat. A pound of tea will go +as far as many pounds of coffee; therefore on +trips extending beyond three or four weeks the +proportion of tea should be increased and that +of coffee diminished. On short trips, however, +such as we are discussing, there is no reason +and most Americans usually prefer it even +when in camp.</p> + +<p>Each article of food should have its individual +bag, to fit into one of the larger waterproof +canvas bags described, though the bacon and +fat pork, each piece wrapped in paraffin +(waxed) paper, may be packed in one bag. +Paraffin paper will protect other packages in +the bag from grease. Several articles of small<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35" name="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> +bulk and weight such as dehydrated carrots, +onions, cranberries and green peas each in its +original package or a small muslin bag suitable +in size may be carried in a single balloon +silk bag. The small bags containing such articles +as are not in daily and frequent use should +be stowed in the bottoms of the canvas bags, +while those in constant demand should be at the +top where they can be had without unpacking +the entire bag. Every package or bag should +be plainly labeled with the nature of its contents. +In labeling them use ink, as pencil marks +are too easily obliterated. Where a party is +composed of a sufficient number of people to +make it worth while the party ration for each +day may be weighed out and packed in a separate +receptacle, thus making seven food packages +for each week. This, however, would +be obviously unpractical where there are less +than eight or ten members of the party.</p> + +<p>No glass or crockeryware should be used, +not only because of its liability to break, but +because of its unnecessary weight.</p> + +<p>A good way to carry the tin of baking powder +is to sink it into the sack of flour. The +flour will protect it and preclude the possibility +of the cover coming off and the contents spilling +out. Do not carry prepared or self-raising +flour on the trail. For many reasons it is un<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36" name="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>practical +for trail use, though perhaps most excellent +in the kitchen at home.</p> + +<p>Throughout I have accentuated the advisability +of waterproof covers for everything. +Every ounce of water absorbed by tent, bags, +or package covers, adds to the tedium of the +trail by so much unnecessary weight. When +flour carried in an ordinary sack Is exposed to +rain a paste will form next the cloth, and presently +harden into a crust that will protect the +bulk of flour from injury. But the flour used +up in the process of crust forming is a decided +waste, and the paste, retaining a degree of +moisture, increases weight.</p> + +<p>I have suggested balloon silk for the small +food bags to fit into the larger waterproofed +canvas bags, not only because it does not absorb +moisture, but because there will be no possibility +of the contents sifting through the +cloth. If these or the cloth from which to +make them cannot be readily obtained, closely +woven muslin will do.</p> + +<p>Should the canoeist desire to make his own +bags and should he not find it convenient to purchase +waterproofed canvas, the ordinary canvas +which he will use may be waterproofed by +the following process:</p> + +<p>In two gallons of boiling water dissolve three +and one-half ounces of alum. Rain water is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37" name="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> +best, though any soft water will do; but it +<i>must be soft water</i> to obtain the best results. +In another vessel dissolve four ounces of sugar +of lead in two gallons of soft water. Unite the +solutions when they have cleared by pouring +into another vessel No. 1 first, then No. 2. +Let the solution stand over night, decant it into +a tub, free of any sediment that may have +settled, and it is ready for the canvas. The +cloth should be put into the solution, thoroughly +saturated with it and then lightly +wrung out, and hung up to dry. This treatment +will render canvas to a considerable extent, +though not completely, waterproof.</p> + +<p>Muslin for the smaller food bags may be +waterproofed by painting it with a saturate solution +of turpentine and paraffin.</p> + +<p>Canned goods should be packed snugly in +canvas bags, with cans on end, that the sides, +not the corners or edges, will rest against the +back in portaging.</p> + +<p>Camp chests in which to store food or other +articles are carried by some canoeists, but they +add considerable weight to the outfit. The +best and most serviceable camp chest is one of +indestructible fiber. One with an inside measurement +of <span class="dimension">18 × 24 × 12</span> inches weighs twenty +pounds.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38" name="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VI" name="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a><br /><br /> +THE PORTAGE</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">There</span> are several types of pack harness +offered by outfitters, but it is generally +conceded that the best method of +carrying heavy or medium-weight packs is with +the tump line. In tump line carrying the pack +is supported by a broad band of leather passed +across the head—high up on the forehead—thus +throwing the weight upon the strong muscles +of the neck, with no shoulder straps or +other support.</p> + +<p>Canadian voyageurs, Hudson's Bay Company +packers and Indians use the tump line to +the exclusion of all shoulder-carrying devices. +Indeed, by no other method would it be possible +for them to transport upon their backs +through a rough country the heavy burdens +which they are called upon to carry. Experienced +packers with the tump line will sometimes +portage loads of upwards of four hundred +pounds. In tests of skill I have seen a +man carry in a single load the contents of three +barrels of flour—588 pounds.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39" name="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span></p> + +<p>The tump line consists of a broad piece of +leather some eighteen or twenty inches in +length (known as the head strap or headpiece), +with a leather thong usually about seven +feet in length attached to each end, the total +length from the tip end of one thong to the tip +end of the other thong averaging about sixteen +feet.</p> + +<p>Sometimes the two thongs are sewn to the +headpiece, and again the line is a single strip of +leather, broadened in the center to form the +headpiece. The best tump lines, however, have +the head strap as a separate piece with a buckle +at each end by which the thongs are attached. +This arrangement admits of adjustment, if +necessary, to suit the individual after the pack +has been made up.</p> + +<p>There is a knack in tump line carrying, but +the following directions for making up various +packs will give the novice sufficient insight, with +a little experience, to enable him to acquire the +art.</p> + +<p>When the pack is to be made up wholly of +bags, lay the tump line on the ground with the +thongs parallel to each other and from sixteen +to twenty inches apart, depending upon the +length of the bags to be packed. Place the +bags across the thongs, one bag upon another, +taking care that the thongs are not so near the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40" name="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> +ends of the bags as to render them liable to +slip off when the pack is tied. Now lift the +head strap above the top bag and secure the +pack by drawing the loose end of each thong +in turn tight around the bags and knotting it a +few inches below the buckle that attaches its +other end to the headpiece.</p> + +<p>When a pack cloth is to be used, spread the +pack cloth upon the thongs of the tump line, +stretched upon the ground in the manner above +described, and in the center of the pack cloth +lay folded blankets and other articles to be +packed, making the pile about two feet long, +and taking care that hard substances are in the +center, with blankets and soft things outside. +Now turn the sides of the pack cloth over the +pack and fold over the ends. If a bag is to be +included, lay it upon the pack after the cloth +has been folded, and secure the whole as in +the former case.</p> + +<p>Another method of making up a pack with +the pack cloth, common among Canadian voyageurs, +is as follows: Spread the cloth upon +the ground, and lay the tump line across it, the +headpiece near one end and the thongs a foot +from the sides. Fold the sides of the cloth inward +over each thong. Now build up the pack +in a neat pile about two feet long on the folded +cloth, taking care as before that hard things<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41" name="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> +are placed in the middle. Fold the end of the +pack cloth with protruding thongs over the +pack, take a half turn with the loose end of a +thong around the other end near the headpiece, +draw it tight until the end is closely puckered, +then knot it and draw up the other thong and +secure it in like manner. Now bring the free +ends of the tump line to center of pack, on top, +cross them and pass them around middle of +pack and tie.</p> + +<p>The knack of comfortable tump line carrying +once the neck muscles have become developed +and hardened to the work is in properly +balancing the pack. With the headpiece +resting high up upon the forehead the pack +should hang with its bottom no lower than the +hips. Neither should it be too high. A little +experimenting will teach just where the proper +balance is to be found. If it is too high, +lengthen the line, or if too low shorten it by +means of the buckles which attach the thongs +to the headpiece.</p> + +<p>Experienced packers pile additional bags or +bundles on top of the pack, the uppermost +bundle standing higher than the head. In my +own experience I have found that an additional +bag thus placed upon the pack and resting +against the back of my neck helped balance the +load. My favorite bag for this purpose is a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42" name="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> +forty or fifty pound bag of flour, sometimes +surmounted by a lighter bundle which rested +partly upon the flour and partly upon my head.</p> + +<p>The tenderfoot will be quite content to limit +his early loads to sixty or seventy pounds, and +even then his first portages will not be what he +can conscientiously term experiences of unalloyed +joy. Gradually, however, he will learn +the knack of tump packing and at the end of a +couple of weeks of daily experience will find +himself able to negotiate a load of one hundred +pounds with some ease.</p> + +<p>All the various types of pack harness are +supplied with straps by which the pack is secured +and loops through which to slip the arms, +the pack being carried from the shoulders instead +of the head. With this sort of a pack, +as with the tump line, care should be given to +the proper adjustment, with the bottom of the +pack no lower than the hips. Fifty pounds is +about as heavy a load as one can comfortably +carry from the shoulders.</p> + +<p>Outfitters sometimes attach a headpiece to +their pack harness—that is to say the harness +is provided with both shoulder loops and tump +line head strap. The object is to secure a division +of weight between shoulders and head. +This is a method employed by Eskimos when +hunting without dogs. The Eskimo hunter<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43" name="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> +binds his pack with sealskin thongs, and manipulates +a single thong in such a manner as not +only to secure the pack but to form arm loops +and headpiece as well.</p> + +<p>No matter what type of shoulder harness is +employed, a breast strap must be used to fasten +together the arm loops in front or the loops +will have a continual tendency to slip backward +and off the shoulders. This breast strap fastens +the packer so securely to his pack that should +he slip, as is sometimes likely, the pack will +carry him down with it and the probability of +injury is multiplied many times. This alone is +a very decided objection to all forms of pack +harness.</p> + +<p>If one slips with a tump line, on the contrary, +a slight twist of the head will disengage and +free one from the pack; and if one is hunting +the tump pack may readily be dropped at a moment's +notice, should game be sighted.</p> + +<p>Let me therefore urge the adoption of the +tump line for all portage work where fifty +pounds or more must be transported. No experienced +packer will use harness. Harness +packing is indeed indicative of the tenderfoot +who has never learned how, unless on long +cross country tramps with light loads.</p> + +<p>But on a canoe trip, if one would make progress, +big loads must be resorted to. For in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44" name="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>stance, +if the canoeist has a two mile portage to +negotiate and one hundred pounds of duffle he +has but two miles to walk if he carries all his +duffle at once, but if he makes two loads of it +he must walk six miles. With the hundred +pound load the portage may easily be covered +in one hour. With fifty pound loads three +hours will be consumed, for there will be time +lost in making up the second pack.</p> + +<p>Axes, guns and extra paddles may be thrust +under the thongs of the tump line, or carried +in the hand. Never portage a rifle with a cartridge +in the chamber, and never portage a +loaded shotgun. To disregard this advice will +be to take an unnecessary and foolhardy risk.</p> + +<p>Save in a rather stiff breeze, one man can +carry a canoe weighing less than one hundred +pounds nearly as easily as two can carry it. +There is one best way of doing everything, and +the best and most practical way to carry a canoe +is the Indian's way.</p> + +<p>Tie one end of a stout string or thong securely +to the middle thwart close to the gunwale, +and the other end to the same thwart +close to the opposite gunwale with the string +stretched taut from end to end of the thwart +and on top of it. Slip the blades of two paddles, +lying side by side, under the string, the +paddle handles lying on the forward thwart.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45" name="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> +With the handles as close together as they will +lie, bind them with a piece of rope or thong to +the center of the forward thwart.</p> + +<p>Spread the blades upon the middle thwart +sufficiently wide apart to admit your head between +them. Take a position on the left side +of the canoe facing the stern. Just forward of +the middle thwart grasp the gunwale on the opposite +or right side of the canoe in your left +hand and the gunwale on the near or left side +in your right hand, and, lifting the canoe over +your head, let the flat side of the paddles directly +forward of the middle thwart rest upon +the shoulders, your head between them. It will +be found that though you faced the stern in +lifting the canoe you are now facing the bow, +and with the bow slightly elevated the canoe +can be carried with ease and a view of the trail +ahead will not be shut out.</p> + +<p>Should the flat paddle blades resting upon +the shoulders be found uncomfortable, as they +doubtless will at the end of the first two or +three hundred yards, a Pontiac shirt or sweater +will serve as a protecting pad.</p> + +<p>Outfitters offer for sale yokes, pneumatic +pads and contrivances of various sorts as protections +for the shoulders, but these contrivances +elevate the canoe from two to four inches +above the shoulders and this increases the diffi<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46" name="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>culty +of steadying it on rough trail. The +sweater or Pontiac shirt eases the cutting effect +of the paddles just as well as any of the special +portaging pads, and the canoe can be handled +more easily with it. Besides it makes one less +thing to look after.</p> + +<p>In a strong breeze it is often difficult for one +man to handle a canoe, for the wind striking it +on the side will turn the portager around and +he will find it impossible to keep his course in +spite of his best efforts. If the portage is a +short one—two or three hundred yards—the +canoe may be carried very well, one man with +the bow the other with the stern upon a +shoulder, the canoe on its side with the bottom +next the portagers' heads, that they may easily +grasp the gunwale in one hand and steady the +canoe with the other.</p> + +<p>This position will soon be found exceedingly +tiresome, and on portages exceeding two or +three hundred yards the paddles should be arranged +with the blades on the after thwart and +the handles lashed to the center of the middle +thwart. With this arrangement one man carries +exactly as when portaging the canoe alone, +save that he stands under the canoe just forward +of the after thwart instead of the middle +thwart, while the other man carries the bow<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47" name="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> +upon one shoulder. This is the easiest method +of two-man portaging of which I know.</p> + +<p>Many odds and ends may be tucked in the +canoe on the portage—fishing rods, for example, +in cases, with one end stuck in the bow +and the other end tied to the forward thwart.</p> + +<p>Should a canvas canoe become punctured it +may be repaired by one of the following +methods:</p> + +<p>If a stick of canoe cement is in the outfit, +heat the cement with a match and smear it +over the puncture.</p> + +<p>Should the outfit contain a canoe repair kit, +cut a patch of canvas somewhat larger than the +puncture, apply a coat of white lead to the +puncture and over a marginal space as large +as the canvas patch, press the patch firmly and +evenly upon the white lead and tack it down +with copper tacks. To this apply calor, and +when dry complete the repairs with a coat of +varnish.</p> + +<p>Should marine glue be used, lay a sheet of it +over the puncture, heat the bottom of a cup or +some other smooth metal utensil and rub it +over the glue until the glue melts sufficiently to +fill the puncture.</p> + +<p>In a region where spruce gum can be had, +melt a quantity of gum in a frying pan with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48" name="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> +sufficient grease to take from the gum its brittle +quality when cold. While hot pour the +gum upon the rupture, letting it run well into +the opening and smearing it smoothly over the +outside.</p> + +<p>"Peterborough" canoes are also easily repaired +with marine glue or gum.</p> + +<p>In loading the canoe place the heavier bags +in the bottom and middle of the canoe, taking +care so to distribute the weight that when fully +loaded the canoe will lie on an even keel. +Keep the load always as low down as possible. +Every bag rising above the gunwales offers resistance +to the wind, and tends to make the +load topheavy. When but one man occupies a +canoe, however, sufficient weight should be carried +forward to counterbalance his weight in +the stern.</p> + +<p>Lash everything fast, particularly in rough +water or when running rapids. It does not pay +to take chances. With a companion I was once +turned over in a rapid in an unexplored, +sparsely timbered wilderness several hundred +miles from the nearest base of supplies—a +Hudson's Bay trading post. Nearly all our +food was lost, as well as guns, axes, cooking +utensils and many other necessities of travel. +The temperature stood close to zero, snow covered +the ground and during the greater part of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49" name="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +the three weeks occupied in reaching the post +we had to dig driftwood from under the snow, +and our ingenuity was taxed at times to the +utmost in efforts to protect ourselves from the +elements and travel with any degree of comfort. +Nothing worse than an unpleasant ducking +in icy waters would have resulted from our +accident had we observed the rule of ordinary +caution and lashed our outfit to the thwarts.</p> + +<p>One end of a rope tied to the forward +thwart, the other end threaded through bag +handles or pack lashings and secured to the after +thwart, will do the trick. A short strap, +one end attached to a thwart, the other end supplied +with a snap to fasten on rifle or shotgun +cases, is a good way to secure the guns and +still have them readily accessible.</p> + +<p>If you would make speed be smart in unloading +the canoe and making up your packs +on the portage, and equally smart in reloading +the canoe. Delays in loading, unloading and +making up packs are the chief causes of slow +progress.</p> + +<p>When it is found necessary to "track," give +the rear end of the tracking line a turn around +the forward thwart, on the land side of the +canoe, then pass the end back and secure it to +the middle thwart. This distributes the strain +between the thwarts. While one man at the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50" name="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> +farther end of the line tows the canoe, the +other man with a pole may walk upon the bank, +and keep the canoe clear of snags, if the water +is deep. Should the water be shallow it will +usually be found necessary for him to wade +and guide the bow through open channels.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51" name="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VII" name="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</a><br /><br /> +TRAVEL WITH SADDLE AND PACK ANIMALS</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">Under</span> this head we shall consider: (1) +Saddles and pack equipment; (2) +Animals best adapted to pack work; +(3) Outfit and provisions and how to pack them; +(4) How to throw some practical hitches; (5) +Equipment of the traveler who has no pack +animal and whose saddle horse is required to +transport both rider and equipment.</p> + +<p>Comfort on the trail depends to a very large +degree upon the animals of the outfit. A mean +horse is an abomination, and a horse may be +mean in many respects. A bucking horse, a +horse that shies at stumps and other objects or +at every moving thing, or one that is frightened +by sudden and unexpected sounds is not only +an uncomfortable but unsafe animal to ride +upon rugged mountain trails; and a horse that +will not stand without hitching, or one that is +hard to catch when hobbled and turned loose, +will cause no end of trouble.</p> + +<p>In choosing a horse, then, avoid so far as +possible one with these tendencies, and also ob<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52" name="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>serve +the manner in which he handles his feet. +He should not be subject to stumbling. He +should be sure-footed, steady and reliable, to +qualify him for work on dangerous trails; this +is of the first importance. A horse that does +not keep his eyes on the trail and select his +footing with care is wholly unsuited to mountain +work. He should be gunwise. A gunwise +horse will not be easily frightened by sudden +and unexpected noises.</p> + +<p>Whether intended for mountain or plains +work, the horse should be a good camp animal—that +is, one that will not wander far from +camp. It is more than aggravating to find upon +arising in the morning that your horse has disappeared +and one always feels that time consumed +in searching for a roving horse is time +worse than wasted. Of course this tendency of +an animal can be forestalled by picketing him, +but a picketed horse unless forage be particularly +good will not do well, for it rarely happens +in these days of sheep-ravaged ranges that +an animal can find sufficient food to meet his requirements +within the limited length of a +picket rope.</p> + +<p>Some horses need much persuasion before +they can be induced to ford streams, and I have +had them lose their nerve and decline the descent +of precipitous trails. An animal possess<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53" name="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>ing +this trait of timidity is not suited to trail +work, for he is likely to cause trouble at a critical +moment.</p> + +<p>Some horses are good foragers, others are +not. A poor forager will become leg weary +and break down much more quickly than the +animal that takes advantage of every opportunity +to graze or browse. A horse just in +from the open range should be round and full-bellied. +This is an indication that he is a good +feeder. Generally speaking the chunky horse +is the one best adapted to arduous trail work +because he usually possesses greater powers of +endurance than the longer, lankier type.</p> + +<p>All of the qualifications above enumerated +should be borne in mind in selecting animals, +whether for saddle or pack use. And of course +the animals should be as sound as possible. +One should never start upon a journey with an +animal that is lame or has cinch sores or galled +back.</p> + +<p>When mountain trails are to be negotiated +a saddle horse weighing from nine hundred to +a thousand pounds will be found better adapted +to the work than a larger animal. Too large a +horse is liable to be clumsy on the trail, while +too light a horse will of course tire under a +heavy rider. A small horse, as a rule, is better +able to forage a living than a large horse, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54" name="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> +for this reason stands up better with a moderate +load on long, continuous journeys. Ponies +weighing from eight hundred to eight hundred +and fifty pounds will pack one hundred and +fifty pounds easily, and ponies of this size make +much better pack animals than larger ones.</p> + +<p>While for general saddle work I prefer a +horse, a mule is surer footed and therefore +preferable on precipitous, narrow mountain +trails. In the Sierra Madres of Mexico I rode +a mule over trails where I would scarcely have +trusted a horse. Good saddle mules, however, +are scarce. I never saw a really good saddle-broke +mule north of Mexico, though they are +doubtless to be had. Mules have greater +powers of endurance than horses, and for many +other reasons are superior as pack animals. +The chief objection to a mule is his timidity +upon marshy trails. His feet are much smaller +than those of a horse, he mires easily, and he is +fully aware of the fact. A good mule, nevertheless, +is the one best all-around pack animal.</p> + +<p>Burros are good where forage is scarce, but +they are slow. When the burro decides that he +has done a day's work he stops, and that is the +end of it. He will not consult you, and he will +not take your advice. When he fully decides +that he will go no farther you may as well unpack +and make camp with as good grace as<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55" name="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> +you can muster, and keep your temper. I believe +that burros have a well-organized labor +union and they will not do one stroke of work +beyond the limit prescribed by their organization. +But one must sometimes resort to them +in desert travel. They will pick their living and +thrive on sage brush wastes where other animals +would die, and their ability to go long +without water is truly remarkable. On rough +mountain trails they are even more sure-footed +if possible than mules, but like the mule it is +difficult to force them over marshes or into +rivers when fording is necessary.</p> + +<p>In horse-raising localities in the West very +good horses can be had at anywhere from +thirty to seventy-five dollars. The usual rate +for horse rental is one dollar to one dollar and +a half a day, and it is therefore cheaper, when +the journey is to extend to a month or more, to +purchase the animals outright and sell them +when you are finished with them for what they +will bring. Rented animals are generally animals +of low value and sometimes not very +efficient, and in the course of a month one pays +in rental a good share of the value of the horse. +The risk is no greater, for if a rented horse is +injured while in a traveler's possession, the +owner holds him who has rented the animal responsible +for the damage.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56" name="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VIII" name="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a><br /><br /> +SADDLE AND PACK EQUIPMENT</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">The</span> riding saddle should be a double +cinch, horn saddle, with wool-lined +skirts and of ample weight to hold its +position. My own is a regular stock saddle +weighing thirty-five pounds, though for all ordinary +use a twenty-five- or thirty-pound saddle +will do just as well.</p> + +<p>I prescribe the horn saddle because of its +convenience. One may sling upon it a camera, +binoculars or other articles in frequent demand, +and when it becomes necessary to lead a pack +pony the lead rope may be attached to it. For +this latter purpose the horn is indeed indispensable.</p> + +<p>In the light of personal experience with both +single and double cinch saddles, I recommend +the latter unhesitatingly, particularly for mountain +work. In steep ascents or descents it will +not slide, while a single cinch saddle is certain +to do so no matter how tightly cinched, and this +shifting will sooner or later gall the horse's<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57" name="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> +back. In Mexico the single cinch saddle is almost +universally used, but who ever saw a +Mexican's horse that was free from saddle +sores? The forward cinch should preferably +be a hair cinch, though the ordinary webbed +sort, both forward and rear, does well enough.</p> + +<p>The saddle blanket should be a thick, good +quality wool blanket. In Arizona Navajo saddle +blankets are popular, and they are undoubtedly +the best when obtainable. A hair +saddle pad or corona, shaped to the animal's +back and used in connection with the blanket, is +a pretty good insurance against galling, and +preferable to the felt pad, for it is cooler.</p> + +<p>A leather boot for rifle, and saddle bags for +toilet articles, note books and odds and ends, +bridle, halter rope, a pair of cowboy spurs with +large blunt rowels, and a quirt to tickle delinquent +pack horses will be needed. The rifle +boot has two sling straps. The usual method +of carrying it is to insert it between the stirrup +leathers on the near side, drop the sling strap +at the top of the boot over the saddle pommel +and buckle the sling strap at the bottom of the +boot into the rear latigo ring. By detaching +the latter sling from the boot before buckling +it to the ring, the boot may be removed from +or attached to the saddle by simply lifting the +forward sling strap over the pommel, without<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58" name="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> +unbuckling. In case the sling strap at the top +of the boot be placed too far down, it should +be shifted higher up and secured to the boot +with a leather loop which may be riveted to the +boot.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter illustration" id="i58"> + <img src="images/058.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Method of Slinging Load on Aparejo</span> + </p> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span>) Rope is doubled + and loop A thrown over + horse's back to off side.</p> + <p> + N. B.—In this and the + following diagrams the pack + is represented as spread out + flat and viewed from above. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>For the pack animals the ordinary cross-tree +or sawbuck pack saddle +is the most practical +pack saddle for all-around +use, though the +aparejo, used by the +army and generally +throughout Mexico, is +superior to the sawbuck +when unwieldy +packages of irregular +size and shape are to +be transported. Such +packages must frequently +be transported by +army trains and they +are the rule rather +than the exception in +Mexico, where freighting +throughout wide +regions must be done +wholly on the backs of +animals.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59" name="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/059.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span>) Packs are now lifted into + place and off packer brings loop A up + around off side pack to top of load. + Near packer passes end B through loop + A and ties ends B and C together with + square knot. Balance or "break" the + packs and load is ready for hitch. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>The aparejo is of Arabian origin, and the +Spaniards, who adopted it from the Moors, introduced +it into Mexico. In Mexico there are +two types of the aparejo in common use. One +made usually of the fiber of <i>henequen</i>, which is +woven into pockets which are stuffed with +grass, to form the pads, is used on donkeys in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60" name="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> +comparatively light packing; in the other type +the pad casing is made of Mexican tanned +leather instead of <i>henequen</i> matting but also +stuffed with grass. This is used in heavier +packing with mules, in transporting machinery +and supplies to mines and merchandise to inland +settlements.</p> + +<p>The cross-tree or sawbuck, however, is used +almost exclusively in the United States by forest +rangers, cowboys, prospectors and pack +travelers generally, and it is to this type of +pack saddle that we shall direct our attention +chiefly. It may be interesting to note that this +is a very ancient type of pack saddle, of Asiatic +origin. It consists of two saddle boards +connected near each end—front and rear—by +two cross-pieces, the pommel and cantle forming +a miniature sawbuck, while the saddle +boards are similar in shape to the McClellan +saddle tree. This is fitted with breeching, quarter +straps, breast strap, latigos and cinch. As +in the case of the riding saddle, the sawbuck +pack saddle should be supplied with the double +cinch. Care should be taken that the saddle +fits the animal for which intended. A saddle +either too wide or too narrow will be certain to +cause a sore back.</p> + +<p>Each pack saddle should be accompanied by +a heavy woolen saddle blanket, which should be<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61" name="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> +folded into three or four thicknesses, for here +even greater protection is necessary than with +the riding saddle, for the animal is to carry a +dead weight.</p> + +<p>The preferable method of carrying supplies +with the sawbuck pack saddle is with kyacks, +basket panniers or the <i>alforjas</i>, though with +sling and lash ropes any sort of a bundle may +be slung upon it.</p> + +<p>When they can be obtained, kyacks of indestructible +fiber stand first for preference. +These are usually from twenty-two to twenty-four +inches wide, seventeen or eighteen inches +high and about nine inches deep, and are fitted +with heavy leather loops for slinging on the +saddle. Unless the horse is a large one, the +narrower, or twenty-two inch, should be selected.</p> + +<p>Basket panniers of similar size are lighter +but not so well adapted to hard usage, and are +more expensive.</p> + +<p>The alforjas is constructed of heavy duck +and leather, and of the same dimensions as the +kyack. They are much cheaper than either +panniers or kyacks, and are therefore more +commonly used. Any outfitter can supply them. +They are slung upon the saddle in the same +manner as kyacks. A pair of the type decided +upon will be required for each animal.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62" name="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></p> + +<p>The next requirement is a half-inch lash +rope. This should be at least thirty-three, but +preferably forty feet in length. In some respects +a cotton rope is preferable to one of +hemp, though the latter is more commonly +used, and regulations prescribe it for army +pack trains.</p> + +<p>A good broad cinch should be provided, +fitted with a ring on one end to which is attached +the lash or lair rope and a cinch hook on +the other end.</p> + +<p>There should be a pair of hobbles for each +animal, and a blind to put upon obstreperous +pack animals when slinging and lashing the +load. These may be purchased throughout the +West at almost any village store. It is well +also to carry a bell, which should always be +strapped around the neck of one of the horses +when the animals are hobbled and turned loose +to graze.</p> + +<p>It will sometimes be necessary to picket one +of the animals, and for this purpose fifty or +sixty feet of half or five-eighth inch rope will +be required. Also sufficient leading rope should +be provided for each pack animal, and a halter +rope for the saddle horse. A lariat carried +upon the saddle pommel will be found useful in +a dozen ways, and may be utilized for picketing +horses.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63" name="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p> + +<p>All horses should be "slick" shod; that is, +shod with uncalked shoes. The shoes should +be of soft iron, not so light as to render them +liable to bend before they are worn out, and +they should not extend beyond the hoof at side +or rear. Some extra shoes of proper size for +each animal, a horseshoer's nippers, rasp, +hammer and some nails should be included in +the equipment.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64" name="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_IX" name="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</a><br /><br /> +PERSONAL OUTFIT FOR THE SADDLE</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">The</span> outfit recommended in Chapters <a href="#CHAPTER_III" title="Camp Equipment for the Canoe Trip">III</a> +and <a href="#CHAPTER_IV" title="Personal Equipment">IV</a> in discussing camp and personal +equipment for canoe trips is, with the +modifications and additions which we shall now +consider, equally well adapted to saddle and +pack horse travel. As previously stated, our +object is to describe methods of packing, rather +than to formulate an infallible check list. With +this in view an efficient outfit that may be +easily packed and transported is outlined, in a +general way, and therefore such articles of outfit +mentioned in previous chapters as are obviously +useful only in canoe travel will not be +referred to in this connection.</p> + +<p>The wedge, the Hudson Bay, the forest +ranger and the lean-to tent are all good models +for pack animal travel, and easily erected. +Whichever type is chosen, if made of any one +of the light-weight materials described, will be +found both satisfactory and easily packed. For +example, a forest ranger's tent eight feet deep<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65" name="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> +and eight feet wide weighs less than four +pounds, while a lean-to with approximately the +same floor space weighs about three pounds. In +the more arid regions of the West one rarely +finds it necessary to pitch a tent, though it is +handy to have one along and well worth carrying, +particularly should it be desired to remain +more than one night at any point.</p> + +<p>During the summer, save in high altitudes, +one pair of light woolen blankets will be found +ample bedding. For all probable conditions +of weather, however, in tent or in the open, +the sleeping bag is the most convenient and at +the same time the most comfortable camp bed +yet devised, and it is so easily carried on the +pack horse that I advise its adoption. One +made of close-woven waterproofed canvas is +the most thoroughly practical bag for general +use. This should be lined with two pairs of +light blankets, that four thicknesses of blanket +may be available for covering. The blankets +should be so arranged that they may be taken +out and the bag turned for airing. One may +adapt such a bag to the temperature, using as +many or as few thicknesses of blanket as desired, +depending upon the number with which +the bag is lined. I recently saw a bag lined +with four thicknesses of llama wool duffel +(providing two thicknesses for cover) that<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66" name="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> +weighed but eight pounds and furnished ample +protection for any weather down to a zero +temperature.</p> + +<p>Pack cloths or light tarpaulins <span class="dimension">6 × 7</span> feet, +used to cover and protect the packs, will be +needed for each pack animal, and at night the +bed may be spread upon them. Saddle bags +make excellent pillows.</p> + +<p>In traveling in an arid region canteens are a +necessity. There should be one large one for +each traveler to be carried on the pack horse, +and a small one swung upon the saddle horn +will be found convenient for ready use.</p> + +<p>A folding water bucket of waterproofed +canvas should also be included in the outfit.</p> + +<p>The aluminum reflecting baker which has +been described is far preferable to the Dutch +oven—a heavy iron kettle with iron cover—not +only because it weighs far less and is much +more easily packed, but because it is more practical. +Westerners are wedded to the Dutch +oven, and this reference is merely made as a +suggestion in case the question of choice between +the two should arise.</p> + +<p>If kyacks or alforjas are used the large +water-proofed canvas duffle bags and food bags +will not be required. The smaller balloon silk +or musline food bags, however, will be found +fully as convenient in packing in the pack horse<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67" name="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> +kyack as in the canvas bags on the canoe trip.</p> + +<p>Each rider should be provided with either +a saddle slicker or a poncho, which when not +in use may be rolled and secured to the saddle +directly behind the seat by means of tie strings +attached to the saddle. A poncho is preferable +to a slicker, because of the many uses to +which it may be put.</p> + +<p>On saddle journeys in cold, windy weather +a wind-proof canvas coat or a large, roomy +buckskin shirt is a comfort. If a buckskin +shirt is adapted, have it made plain without +fringe or frill. Wilderness dwellers formerly +fringed their buckskin shirts, not alone for +ornament, but to facilitate the drying of the +garment when wet. In the fringed shirt water, +instead of settling around the bottom of the +shirt, around the yoke and the seams of the +sleeve, will drain to the fringe which the wind +quickly dries. In our case, however, the poncho +will protect the shirt from a wetting.</p> + +<p>In summer, in an arid or desert region of +the Southwest, athletic summer underwear will +be found entirely satisfactory. Whether this +or light wool is to be worn, however, will +depend entirely upon the season and the region +to be visited.</p> + +<p>In very warm weather a close-woven, good +quality khaki outer shirt is both comfortable<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68" name="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> +and practical; but on chilly autumn days a flannel +shirt should take its place—gray, brown, +blue—the color does not matter so long as it +does not crock. It is my custom to have one +khaki and one flannel shirt in my outfit.</p> + +<p>Trousers should be of heavy khaki, medium +weight moleskin, or other strong close-woven +material. Full-length trousers, with reinforced +seat, are preferable in some respects to riding +breeches, and may be worn with the regulation +United States cavalry puttee leggings with +shoes.</p> + +<p>Some riders prefer top boots, such as Arizona +cowboys wear, and but for their high +heels which make walking uncomfortable they +would be admirable. High-laced, medium-weight +mountaineering shoes will eliminate the +necessity of puttees, and many prefer them to +low-laced shoes and puttees. In snowy, cold +weather I have found heavy German socks and +ordinary shoes, large enough to avoid the possibility +of pinching the feet, admirable footwear +for the saddle. But whatever is decided +upon, extra trousers, extra leggings and extra +shoes are superfluous. One pair of each—the +pair worn—is sufficient.</p> + +<p>The hat should be of the Western style, with +broad brim, and of the best grade. The brims +of the cheaper ones are sure to sag after a lit<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69" name="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>tle +wear and exposure to a shower or two. A +good reliable hat may be had for five dollars +that will stand several years of hard wear and +may be renovated when soiled, assuming again +the freshness of a new hat. I have one for +which I paid fourteen pesos in Monterey, Mexico, +in 1907. I have worn It pretty steadily +since in camp and on the trail. It has been +twice renovated, and to-day so nearly resembles +a new hat that I am not ashamed to wear +it about town.</p> + +<p>Heavy gauntlet buckskin gloves are a necessary +protection, not only against cold in frosty +weather, but against brush in summer. The +regulation United States cavalry glove is the +best that I have discovered for all-around hard +usage, and will not harden after a wetting.</p> + +<p>The saddle rifle should be short and light—not +over twenty-four-inch barrel, and not above +seven pounds in weight. A revolver is never +needed, though for target practice one offers +a means of amusement.</p> + +<p>Unless going into permanent camp or into +an isolated region, it will hardly be found necessary +to start out with more than one week's +provisions. Before these are consumed settlements +will be reached, where fresh supplies +may be purchased. It is well to have along a +few cans of baked beans and corned or roast<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70" name="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> +beef, that a hasty meal may be prepared when +time does not allow a sufficient halt to permit +the preparation of uncooked foods. Two or +three dozen lemons should also be provided, +particularly in summer, and in more or less +arid regions.</p> + +<p>Provisions and general outfit should be +neatly packed in small bags, and evenly distributed +in the kyacks.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71" name="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_X" name="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</a><br /><br /> +ADJUSTING THE PACK</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">In</span> saddling up, be sure that the saddle +blanket is folded large enough to protect +the horse's sides from the pack, when the +pack is slung into place. Otherwise the kyacks +or alforjas will be liable with constant chafing +when the horse is in motion to cause sores. Not +only where the saddle rests upon the blanket +but where the pack rests upon the horse's sides +there should be sufficient thicknesses of blanket +to overcome friction, and this demands a +greater thickness than under the riding saddle, +for the pack load is a dead load. After the +pack saddle is thrown into place, and before +cinching it, ease the blanket by pulling it up +slightly under the center of the saddle—along +the backbone of the animal. This will overcome +the tendency of the blanket to draw down +and bind the horse's back too tightly when the +saddle is cinched and the pack in place.</p> + +<p>When packing the kyacks or alforjas particular +care should be taken to have the pair<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72" name="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> +for each horse evenly balanced as to weight. +If the load swung on one side of the horse is +heavier than that on the opposite side, there +will be a continual drawing down of the pack +saddle on the heavier side, resulting almost +certainly in injury to the animal. Inattention +or willful carelessness on the part of packers in +balancing the pack is five times out of six the +cause which leads to sore-backed pack animals.</p> + +<p>If two or more pack animals are used, let +such provisions and utensils as are in constant +use and will be needed at once by the cook, be +packed on one animal. Hobbles and bell +should also be carried on this animal. This +will be the first animal unpacked, and while the +other animals are being unpacked the cook may +get busy, and the packer will have hobbles and +bell at hand to immediately attach to the animals.</p> + +<p>Attached to each end of the kyacks and +alforjas is a leathern loop or sling strap. By +means of these loops kyacks and alforjas are +hung to the saddle, one loop fitting over the +forward, the other over the rear cruz, or fork. +The kyacks should be so adjusted as to hang +evenly one with the other. That is to say, one +kyack should hang no lower upon the animal's +side than the other, and both should hang as +high as possible.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73" name="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span></p> + +<p>The kyacks in place, hobbles, bell, and such +odds and ends as it may not be convenient to +pack in the kyack, may be laid on the center +between the crosstrees and on top of the kyack, +and over all smoothly folded blankets, sleeping +bags, or tent, care being exercised to keep the +pack as low and smooth as possible. Everything +carefully placed and adjusted, cover the +pack with the pack cloth or tarpaulin, folded to +proper size to protect the whole pack, but with +no loose ends extending beyond it to catch upon +brush or other obstructions. If inconvenient +to include within the pack, the cooking outfit +in its canvas case may be lashed to the top +of pack after the final hitch has been tied. +All is ready now for the hitch that is to bind +the pack into place.</p> + +<p>Frequently the traveler is not provided with +either kyacks or alforjas, and it becomes necessary +to pack the load without the convenience +of these receptacles. Before considering the +hitches, therefore, let us describe methods of +slinging the load in such cases upon the crosstree +saddle.</p> + +<p>The load which is to be slung from the +crosstree should be arranged in two compact +packages of equal weight, one for each side of +the animal. Boxes may be used, but large, +strong sacks are preferable. The large can<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_74" name="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>vas +duffle bags, described in the chapter on +canoe outfitting, are well adapted to the purpose.</p> + +<div class="figcenter illustration" id="i74"> + <img src="images/074.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Sling for Packing on Crosstree Saddle</span> + </p> + <p>A is forward cruz, B rear cruz of saddle. CC are loops + which support packages. D and E are ends or hauling + parts of rope.</p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>Take the sling rope, and, standing on the +near side, throw one end over the horse's neck +just forward of the saddle. Now at about +the middle of the rope form two half hitches, +or a clove hitch, on the forward cruz or fork +of the saddle.</p> + +<p>With the free end of the rope on the near +side form a half hitch on the rear cruz, allowing +sufficient loop between the forward and +rear cruz to receive the side pack, with the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75" name="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> +free end of the rope falling under the loop. +Now go to the off side and arrange the rope +on that side in similar manner.</p> + +<p>Lift the offside pack into position with its +forward end even with the forward fork, lifting +the pack well up to the forks. Hold the +pack in position with the palm of the right hand +against the center of the pack, and with the left +hand pass the loop along the lower side of the +pack, drawing in the slack with the free end +of the rope, which passes around the rear fork +and under the center of the pack. With the +pack drawn snugly in position, take a turn +with the free end of the rope around the rope +along the side of the pack. This will hold +the pack in position. Tie a bowline knot in +the end of rope, and at proper length for the +bowline loop to reach the center and top of +pack. Place loop where it may be easily +reached from the near side.</p> + +<p>Now pass to the near side and sling the near +pack in exactly similar manner, save that no +bowline knot is to be formed. Reach up and +slip the end of the near rope, which you are +holding, through the bowline loop, draw tight +and tie.</p> + +<p>The following is another method of slinging +packs, frequently used by forest rangers:</p> + +<p>Throw the rope across the horse directly in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76" name="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> +front of the saddle, and as in the previous +method form two half hitches with the rope +at its middle on the front fork, but in this case +permitting the ends to lie on the ground on +either side the horse. Place the near pack in +position and against the lower rope, and holding +it with one hand, bring the rope up and +over the pack with the other hand and throw +a half hitch around the forward fork, keeping +the free end of the rope under. Draw the +rope taut, lifting the pack well up. Pass the +running rope back and throw a half hitch +around the rear fork, the loose or running end +of the rope on the under side, as when forming +the half hitch on the front fork. Now +pass the running rope from under over the +pack at the rear, throw a half hitch over the +rear fork, take up all slack, bring the loose +end under and around the two ropes at their +intersection between pack and rear fork, and +tie securely. The pack on off side is slung in +similar manner.</p> + +<p>Most mules, and not infrequently horses as +well, have a constitutional dislike to receiving +the pack. If your pack animal displays any +such tendency adjust the blind over his eyes +and let it remain there until the hitch is thrown +and the load tightened and secured. The blind +is usually an effective quieter.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77" name="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XI" name="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</a><br /><br /> +SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">Whether</span> the load is made up with +kyacks, alforjas, or separate packs +slung to the crosstree saddle as described +in the preceding chapter it must be secured +in place. For this purpose various +hitches are employed by packers, each hitch +well adapted to the particular conditions which +evolved it.</p> + +<p>Our description will be confined to the following +six hitches, which furnish ample variety +to suit the exigencies of ordinary circumstances:</p> + +<p>(1) The crosstree or squaw hitch, which +is the father of all hitches because from it the +diamond, the double diamond and all pack-train +hitches in present-day use were evolved.</p> + +<p>(2) A diamond hitch, adapted to the crosstree +pack saddle. This is a form of single +diamond.</p> + +<p>(3) The United States army diamond particularly +adapted for use with the aparejo. The +true double diamond is a hitch rarely called for<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_78" name="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> +save in army work or freighting pack trains, +and will therefore be omitted. There are several +so-called double diamonds that might be +described, but these near-double diamonds possess +little or no advantage over the single diamond, +and we shall pass them over as they are +scarcely resorted to in ordinary pack work.</p> + +<p>(4) The one-man or lifting hitch.</p> + +<p>(5) The stirrup hitch, to be used when the +packer has rope but no cinch.</p> + +<p>(6) The saddle hitch, employed in slinging +loads upon an ordinary riding saddle.</p> + +<p>(7) The hitch for packing a sick or injured +man.</p> + +<h3>THE CROSSTREE HITCH</h3> + +<p>This hitch was introduced into the Northwest +by the early fur traders and adopted by +the Indians. Among Indians, women are the +laborers, and the crosstree hitch being the hitch +almost exclusively employed by the squaws was +presently dubbed by white men the "squaw +hitch." It is a hitch very generally used by +prospectors, and for this reason is known in +some localities as the "prospector's hitch." +In other sections of the West, where sheep +herders commonly use it, it is locally called +the "sheep herder's hitch." It is a hitch<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_79" name="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> +easily thrown by one man, holds well, and is +therefore a favorite.</p> + +<div class="figcenter illustration" id="i79"> + <img src="images/079a.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Squaw or Crosstree Hitch</span> + </p> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span>) Rope engaged on cinch hook and bight of rope + running from rear forward under standing rope. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/079b.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span>) Loop of bight enlarged, reversed and passed + around bottom and lower corners of off side pack. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/080.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span>) Hitch formed and ready to tighten. 1. Standing + rope. 2. Running rope. 3. Rear rope—off side. 4. + Front rope—off side. 5. Front rope—near side. 6. Rear + rope—near side. 7. Marker. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>With lash rope attached to cinch, take a +position on the near side of the animal facing +the pack. Throw the cinch over the top and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_80" name="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> +center of pack in such manner as to be easily +reached under the horse's belly. Pick up cinch +and engage the rope from in out upon the +hook. Draw up slack, taking care that the +cinch rests properly upon the horse's belly. +Grasp the running and standing rope in left +hand above the hook, to hold slack, and with +the right hand double the running rope and +thrust the doubled portion under the standing +rope from rear forward in a bight, at top of +pack. Enlarge the loop of the bight by drawing +through enough slack rope to make the loop +of sufficient size to be passed over and around +the off side kyack or pack. Step to off side, +turn loop over, and engage it around the ends +and bottom of kyack, from front to rear. Re<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_81" name="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>turn +to near side, and pass the loose end of +running rope around the forward end, bottom +and finally rear end of kyack. Draw the rope +end, from above down, over and under the +standing rear and running ropes, at the top and +center of the load, and the hitch is ready to +tighten.</p> + +<p>To tighten the hitch, grasp the running rope +a little above the cinch hook, and pull with all +your strength, taking up every inch of slack +possible. Retain this slack by holding the +standing and running rope together with left +hand, while with the right hand you reach to +top of load and pull up slack where running +rope passes under standing rope. Go to off +side and draw in all slack, following the rope +around off side pack. Retaining slack, return +to near side, and still following rope and taking +up slack around front to rear of near side +pack, grasp end of rope, already engaged as +directed over and under standing rear and +running rope, pull hard, bracing a foot against +pack, and tie. Two men, one on each side of +the horse, can, of course, throw the hitch and +tighten the load much more quickly than one. +Tightening the load is just as important a feature +of packing as evenly balancing the packs. +The result of an improperly tightened load +will pretty certainly be a sore-backed horse.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_82" name="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p> + +<h3>THE CROSSTREE DIAMOND HITCH</h3> + +<div class="figcenter illustration" id="i82"> + <img src="images/082.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span>) A turn is here taken around standing rope + with loop of bight of running rope thrust under standing + rope from rear to front, as in <a href="#i79">Fig. 1</a>, illustrating Squaw + Hitch. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>Take position on the near side of horse, as +when forming the crosstree hitch, and throw +cinch over horse, engaging it on hook and adjusting +it in exactly similar manner. Take in +slack and retain it by grasping the standing +and running ropes in left hand. Double running +rope and thrust doubled portion under +standing rope in a bight, from rear forward +at top and center of load. Take up all slack. +Enlarge loop of bight by drawing through +enough running rope to form a diamond of +sufficient size to hold top of load. Now bring +center of loop over and under standing rope, +from rear forward, thus giving rope at each<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_83" name="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> +side of loop a complete turn around standing +rope. Throw the disengaged portion of running +rope to off side of horse, and passing to +the off side, bringing the rope down along rear, +bottom, and up front of kyack, thrust loose +rope end up through loop at top of pack. +Take in slack and return to near side of horse. +Engage running rope around front, bottom and +rear end of near side kyack or pack, and thrust +rope end over and under standing rope opposite +center of loop. Take up slack and load in +ready to tighten.</p> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/083.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Crosstree Diamond Hitch</span> + </p> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span>) Hitch formed ready to tighten. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>Tighten load by grasping running rope above +hook and drawing as tight as possible. Hold +slack with left hand, gripping running and +standing rope, and take up slack at loop with +right hand. Pass to off side and take up slack<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_84" name="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> +and tighten rear to front around kyack. Pass +to near side, tightening front to rear; finally, +bracing a foot against the load pull on loose +end, and retaining all slack make final tie.</p> + +<p>The above described "diamond" hitch is +not the true diamond employed by government +pack trains where the aparejo is used, but it is +a diamond evolved from the crosstree hitch, +and is particularly well adapted to the crosstree +or sawbuck pack saddle, is easily formed, +and holds the load securely, which is the ultimate +object of all hitches.</p> + +<h3>THE UNITED STATES ARMY DIAMOND HITCH</h3> + +<p>The single diamond hitch employed by army +packers is the ideal hitch for securing a load +upon an aparejo. This is a two-man hitch, +though an expert can throw it alone.</p> + +<p>One packer takes his position on the off side +of the animal, while the other with the coiled +lash rope, cinch attached, remains on the near +side.</p> + +<p>The near packer, retaining the cinch, throws +the coiled rope over the horse's haunch, to rear. +The off packer picks up end of rope, and receiving +the hook end of cinch, passed to him +under horse's belly by near packer, holds it<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85" name="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a><br /><a id="Page_86" name="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> +together with end of rope in his left hand, and +stands erect.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter illustration" id="i85"> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">United States Army Diamond Hitch</span> + </p> + <p> + Figures represent successive stages in formation. + Near side towards right in each case. Line PP in Fig. 1 + represents horse's back. AA (Fig. 3) standing part of + rope, and A´ (Fig. 2) the running rope. + </p> + </div> + + <img src="images/085a.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span></p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/085b.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span></p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/085c.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span></p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/086a.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 4.</span></p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/086b.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 5.</span></p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/086c.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 6.</span></p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>The near packer, taking a position at the +horse's neck, grasps the rope about six feet +from cinch, and with an upward and backward +motion, drops it between the two packs, one +slung on either side of the aparejo.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_87" name="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></p> + +<p>Still grasping the rope in his right hand just +forward of the packs at the top, he pulls forward +between the packs sufficient running rope +to permit him to bring his hand down to his +side. Retaining the rope in his right hand +he now reaches up with his left hand, and +with back of hand up and thumb under +grasps running rope and draws sufficient rope +forward to permit the left hand grasping the +rope to come down to his side, arm's length.</p> + +<p>With the right elbow crooked the right hand, +still holding the rope, is brought up about on +a level with the chin, and the left hand, also +retaining its hold on the rope, thumb down, is +raised to hollow of the right arm, with loop of +rope between the hands lying outside the right +arm. Now by a single swinging motion with +both hands the rope in the right hand, called +the "standing rope," is thrown over the center +of pack to the off packer who stands ready +to receive it; and the rope held in the left hand, +called the "running rope," over the horse's +neck, forward of the pack.</p> + +<p>The off packer, still standing with cinch hook +and end of rope in left hand, with his right +hand grasps the standing rope as it comes over +as high up as he can conveniently reach, draws +it down, and holding the cinch hook in proper<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_88" name="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> +position below the aparejo draws down the +standing rope and engages it upon the hook +from in out.</p> + +<p>The near packer now draws forward between +the packs about six feet more rope, which he +throws to the rear of the near side pack. This +rope is now called the "rear" rope. He next +grasps the running rope at the horse's neck, +and with the off packer's assistance releases that +portion of the running rope lying between the +packs forward of the standing rope, and brings +it to the center of pack on near side, next to and +just back of the standing rope.</p> + +<p>He now slips his right hand down the rope +to a point half way between pack and aparejo +boot, and with the left hand reaches from forward +between standing rope and aparejo and +grasps the rope just above the right hand. Both +hands are now slipped down the rope, and with +the same motion drawn apart, one on each side +of standing rope (under which the rope being +manipulated passes) to the cinches. With the +hands about ten inches apart, the section of rope +between them, which is held in a horizontal +position, is jammed down between the two +cinches under the aparejo.</p> + +<p>The off packer, holding the running rope +with his right hand above the hook, places the +left hand holding end of rope on top of running<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_89" name="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> +rope between his right hand and the hook, and +with thumb under running rope grasps both +ropes and slips his hands up on running rope, +bringing it to center of load.</p> + +<p>He now draws the end of the rope, held by +left hand, forward until a foot or so falls upon +the near side of the horse's neck. The hitch +is now formed, ready to tighten.</p> + +<p>To tighten, the near packer with his left +palm passing the side and center of the pack +grasps the running rope at the rear of the standing +rope, at the same time bringing the running +rope between the thumb and index finger of the +left hand, which he is using as a brace. In this +position he is prepared to hold slack as it is +given him by the off packer.</p> + +<p>The off packer grasps the running rope close +down to the hook, and, bracing himself with a +knee against the aparejo boot, pulls with all his +might, taking two or more pulls, if necessary, +and giving slack to near packer, until no more +slack can be taken on standing rope. He now +steps smartly to rear and throws the top rope +forward of the pack. The top rope is the rope +leading up from the rear corner of the aparejo +boot on near side to the side and center of off +side pack. After it is thrown forward it is +called the "front" rope. He now prepares to +receive slack from near packer by grasping the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_90" name="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> +rear rope where it lies between the packs.</p> + +<p>The near packer, who has been receiving the +slack given him by the off packer, carries his +right hand, with which he holds the slack at +rear of standing rope, to lower side of pack +toward the aparejo, and reaches under standing +rope, with left hand grasps rope above right +hand, drawing it forward under standing rope, +and employing both hands jams it upward in a +bight between standing rope and pack. Care +should be taken during this operation to retain +all slack.</p> + +<p>The near packer now engages around front +boot of aparejo the free portion of the running +rope below the bight just formed. Holding +slack with left hand, he grasps the rope to rear +of cinch in right hand; receiving slack from left +hand he brings rope to rear of aparejo boot, +and with both hands carries rope smartly to +upper corner of side pack, always retaining +slack. The off packer receives slack, pulling it +in quickly hand over hand, the near packer retaining +his hold until the off packer has the rope +taut. The near packer now takes a position +at the forward end of load, facing the rear, and +grasps end of rope prepared to take slack from +off packer.</p> + +<p>The off packer, after receiving slack from +near packer as described takes a turn of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_91" name="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> +rope around each hand, holding every inch of +slack, steps to the rear, keeping in line with +the horse's body, and then facing forward +throws his full weight back upon the rope. Retaining +the slack with his left hand, with his +right hand he brings the free portion of running +rope under and around the aparejo boot, +from rear to front, passes forward of rope, and +facing the rear and grasping rope, right hand +above the left, brings it smartly to upper corner +of pack.</p> + +<p>The near packer, holding end of rope, immediately +draws in slack until he has about six +feet of free rope, which he throws over center +of load to off side, and then drawing in all remaining +slack takes a turn of rope around each +hand and throws his weight upon it, and the off +packer releases his hold.</p> + +<p>Holding the slack with the left hand, the +near packer releases his right hand and with +it engages the free or running portion of rope +under and around the aparejo boot to rear +of load, while the off packer steps to rear of +load, takes end of rope, and while he draws +in all slack, neatly coils rope, holding coil in +right hand at lower side of pack, and, with palm +of left hand braced against center of load, receives +slack from near packer.</p> + +<p>Grasping in his left hand the taut rope above<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_92" name="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> +the coils, and lifting it sufficiently above the +load to admit the coiled rope under it, he swings +the coils with his right hand from rear to front +to top of load and brings the standing rope +held in his left hand down on top of the coils +to hold them. He now takes a loop of the +rope, forces it between standing rope and pack, +in a bight, and takes a turn of the loop around +standing and running rope to secure it, first +joining the loop well up, and the hitch is tightened.</p> + +<h3>THE ONE-MAN OR LIFTING HITCH</h3> + +<p>This is a pretty good hitch sometimes where +kyacks are not used and an irregular pack is +swung upon the crosstree. While it holds the +pack very securely to the animal's back, its +tendency is to lift the corners that might cause +friction upon the horse's sides.</p> + +<p>Standing on the near side of the horse, throw +cinch over the horse's back, pick up cinch and +engage rope upon cinch hook, from in out, as +in previous hitches. Take up slack, bring running +rope up side of pack, double and thrust +loop or bight under standing rope from rear +forward at top of pack, to hold slack. Throw +all loose rope to off side, and pass around to +off side yourself.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_93" name="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter illustration" id="i93"> + <img src="images/093a.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p>(<span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span>)</p> + <div class="cols"> + <div style="float:left"> + A—Cinch<br /> + C—Standing rope<br /> + B—Cinch hook<br /> + </div> + <div style="float:right"> + D—Running rope<br /> + E—Front rope<br /> + F—Marker<br /> + </div> + <div style="clear:both"></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/093b.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Lifting Hitch</span> + </p> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span>) Grasp loop A in left hand and with right + jam rope C C along and under rope B (where latter + passes beneath corner of pack) to D, as shown in Fig. 3. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/094a.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span>) Off side of hitch completed. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/094b.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Lifting Hitch</span> + </p> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 4.</span>) Hitch formed ready to tighten. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>Draw loose end of running rope forward and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_94" name="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> +from under standing rope at top of pack. The +effect of operations thus far is this: The running +rope passes up the near side, from hook +and to top of load and passes under standing +rope, which will serve effectually in final tightening +of cinch to hold slack.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_95" name="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span></p> + +<p>Pass end of running rope over and under +the forward end of off pack and backward under +standing rope and pack. Now bring the +rope forward over side of pack, double, and +thrust the doubled portion over and under forward +rope in a bight. With left hand grasp +double of rope at bight just to rear of forward +rope where it passes over and under forward +rope, and with right hand slip running rope +down and just to rear of standing rope. Take +up slack. By pulling hard upon loose end of +running rope the ends of pack will be lifted +slightly.</p> + +<p>Throw loose end over horse to near side, +and across middle of load. Pass to near side +and manipulate rope as on off side. Tighten +load. Secure the hitch by bringing loose end +of rope over and under forward running and +standing ropes, and tie.</p> + +<h3>STIRRUP HITCH</h3> + +<p>This hitch is useful where the packer has +lash rope but no cinch, and may be employed on +sawbuck saddle, aparejo, or where the load is +hung upon an ordinary riding saddle. It is a +two-man hitch, though one man may manipulate +it.</p> + +<div class="figcenter illustration" id="i96"> + <img src="images/096a.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span>) Rope is thrown across load with equal portion + falling on each side. Loop A is formed on top of + load, and the ends BB are passed through it to form + large loops C and D. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/096b.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Stirrup Hitch</span> + </p> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span>) Loops C and D are passed under horse's + belly and seized by packers on opposite sides. Each packer + then draws end of rope which he is holding through loop + which has been passed to him. Off packer forms bowline + knot, E, and near packer passes his end of rope through + this. Hitch is now ready to tighten. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>Pass the rope over the load, with an equal<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_96" name="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a><br /><a id="Page_97" name="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> +division of rope on either side. Form a loop +at center and top of load. Each packer will +now place a foot upon the rope, where it falls +from loop to ground, and pass his end of rope +through loop from above down and draw +through slack rope. This forms a loop on +either side in which the foot rests. Each +packer will now bring forward and under the +horse's belly the loop in which his foot rests, +passing the loop to the other packer at the same +time disengaging his foot, and will pass the +loose end of rope which he holds through the +loop which he receives. The ropes on top of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_98" name="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> +pack will now be spread to properly cover and +secure the pack, and all slack taken.</p> + +<p>The off side packer now forms a bowline +knot in the loose end of his rope, the near side +packer passes his loose end through the bowline +loop. To tighten the load the off side +packer gives slack, while the near side packer +braces and draws in on loose end of rope, tying +at bowline loop to secure load.</p> + +<h3>THE SADDLE HITCH</h3> + +<div class="figcenter illustration" id="i97"> + <img src="images/097.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Saddle Hitch</span> + </p> + <p> + With rope arranged as shown throw deer across saddle, + enlarge loops A and B around haunches and neck. Bring + ends C and D together, form bowline knot on end D, pass + end C through it and tighten. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>This is a particularly useful hitch when it +becomes necessary to sling a deer to a riding +saddle for transportation to camp.</p> + +<p>Throw the lash rope across the saddle seat, +an equal division of rope falling to either side. +Double the rope where it crosses the cinch ring +and thrust it through the cinch ring in a loop, +drawing through enough loose rope to form a +good-sized loop. This should be done on both +sides. Lay the deer across saddle, with head +hanging on one side and haunches on the other +side, slip loop on one side over the deer's head, +and the loop on the other side over its +haunches. Take in all slack. Form a bowline +loop on end of off side rope, and lay it on +top of load. This loop should be so adjusted +as to reach the middle of the top of load.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_99" name="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> +Passing to near side, thread loose end of near +side rope through the bowline loop. Tighten +load by pulling on loose end, and tie.</p> + +<h3>HOW TO PACK A SICK OR INJURED MAN</h3> + +<p>Sometimes it occurs that a member of a party +is so injured or becomes so ill as to be helpless, +and the problem of transporting him upon +horseback presents itself. This may be done +in the following manner upon a crosstree or +sawbuck saddle:</p> + +<p>Cut two straight sticks three feet long and +about three inches in diameter. Fit one on +either side of saddle snug against the forks. +Lash securely to forks forward and rear, with +ends of sticks protruding an equal distance forward +of and back of forward and rear forks. +It may be well to cut shallow notches in the +sticks where they rest against the forks. This +will preclude lateral motion.</p> + +<p>Cut two sticks two feet long and three inches +in diameter. Place one in front and one in +rear at right angles to and across top of sticks +already in position. These cross-pieces are to +be lashed to position one about two inches +from forward ends, the other two inches from +rear ends of lengthwise sticks. Before lashing +them into position cut notches to receive lash<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_100" name="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> +ropes at points of intersection, that any tendency +to slip or work loose may be overcome.</p> + +<p>Now cut two poles six feet long and three +inches in diameter. Spread a pack cloth upon +the ground, and presuming the pack cloth is +six feet wide, place a pole on each outer end +of it. Roll poles, with pack cloth, to center +until there is a width of twenty inches between +the outer edges of poles. In this position lace +cloth to each pole, or if horseshoe or other +nails are handy, nail it to poles. Should the +cloth be wider than length of poles, fold in a +margin on each end, before rolling. Place litter +on cross-pieces, the flat of canvas on top. +Notch, and secure poles of stretcher at front +and rear to cross-pieces. Lash down litter by +means of the stirrup hitch.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_101" name="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XII" name="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</a><br /><br /> +TRAVELING WITHOUT A PACK HORSE</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">The</span> man who travels without a pack +horse, and carries his full equipment +and provision supply upon his saddle +must, of necessity, deny himself many things +that under ordinary circumstances are deemed +essentials. He must indeed travel light, and +unless he is well inured to roughing it will be +content to confine his activities to the warmer +and less inclement months.</p> + +<p>The food supply is the first consideration, +but nowadays one is certain to come every three +or four days at the outside upon some point +where fresh supplies may be purchased. Therefore, +twelve to fifteen pounds of provisions, +carefully selected from the ration already suggested, +will meet the utmost needs. In selecting +the ration it is well to eliminate all luxuries. +It may also be said that canned goods are too +heavy, where one is to pack more than a two-days' +supply, and bacon should be made the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_102" name="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> +basis of the meat diet. But then we are considering +methods of packing and carrying, +rather than check lists. Limiting the quantity +to fifteen pounds for a five-days' trip—and this +is ample with judicious selection—the individual +will be left to decide his ration for himself.</p> + +<p>Saddle bags will be found indispensable and +in them will be ample room to carry the limited +toilet articles required, a hand towel, one +change of light woolen or summer underwear, +matches, tobacco and rifle cartridges. The +best shelter is a lean-to tent, made of extra +light cloth. This should be about seven feet +long, four and one-half feet high and four feet +deep. Such a tent will weigh about three +pounds.</p> + +<p>The cooking outfit will be limited to essentials. +If it can be had an aluminum army or +"Preston" mess kit, either of which weighs +about two pounds, a sheath knife with broad +blade, and a pint cup, will fill all requirements. +If the mess kit cannot be procured, a small +frying pan with folding handle, an aluminum +or enamel plate and a dessert spoon with sheath +knife, and a pint cup, will do nearly as well. +In this latter case coffee may be made in the cup. +A small canteen, which may be hung upon the +saddle horn, should also be provided.</p> + +<p>A small belt axe that weighs about two<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_103" name="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> +pounds, with sheath, a lariat and a few feet +of rope will be required.</p> + +<p>A single blanket or a pair of light blankets +not exceeding five pounds in weight will constitute +the only bedding that can be conveniently +carried.</p> + +<p>To pack the outfit spread tent flat upon the +ground, turning the triangular ends in to lie +flat. Fold the tent once, end for end. This +will make a rectangular pack cloth three and +one-half feet long and about five and one-half +feet wide. Fold your blanket to a size a little +smaller than tent and spread it flat upon the +tent. Arrange your provision packages on the +blanket a foot or so from one end and with a +margin of a foot or more on either side. Fold +the end of blanket and tent up and over the +packages and roll up blanket and tent together +with a band close to the knob in center to hold +the packages in place and prevent their working +down toward ends of roll.</p> + +<p>The provisions should be thoroughly protected +in bags, as previously suggested, in order +that they may not soil the blanket.</p> + +<p>Place the roll directly behind saddle seat +with the bulge caused by the provision bulk +resting against saddle seat, the end of roll falling +on either side, and tie in position by means +of leather tie strings attached to saddle on each<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_104" name="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> +side. The tie should be made in both cases +just below the bulge in roll.</p> + +<p>The tent will protect blanket and provisions, +and if judgment has been used in the selection +and arrangement of provisions the bulk should +not be unduly or inconveniently large. The +cooking kit, if enclosed in a canvas case with +handle, may be lashed to roll by passing lash +string through the handle and over the top +and around the kit. A strap above the upper +loop of the rifle boot and through the belt +loop on the axe scabbard will hold the axe and +another buckled around the rifle boot and lower +end of handle will prevent a slapping motion +of the handle.</p> + +<p>The poncho, neatly rolled, may be carried +on the pommel, the center of the roll pressed +against the back of the horn, the ends drawn +down and forward of the pommel on either +side and secured with the leathern tie strings +attached to the saddle. When not in use +sweater or Pontiac shirt may be carried with +the poncho.</p> + +<p>The horse may be picketed with the lariat. +Hobbles may be made as cowboys make them +from rope. A strand unraveled from half-inch +rope brought once around one leg, twisted +rather tightly, the ends brought around the +other leg and secured in the twist between the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_105" name="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> +legs, makes a good hobble. Always fasten +picket rope or hobble below the fetlock just +above the hoof—<i>never</i> above the fetlock.</p> + +<p>The outfit here outlined will weigh, including +rifle and a reasonable amount of ammunition, +from forty to forty-five pounds at the +utmost, and one may be very comfortable with +it. If game and fish can be caught and are +to be depended upon, the provisions may be +cut down to a little flour, bacon, coffee and +sugar, and the traveler may tarry in the wilderness +for a considerable time.</p> + +<p>One may leave out the tent, and in a warm +climate even the blanket, relying for shelter +wholly upon the poncho. An experienced man +will often limit his cooking outfit to a cup and +canteen. A good strong reliable horse, a good +saddle equipment, and enough plain food is all +one really needs who has experience in wilderness +travel. Such a man can make himself +comfortable with exceedingly little.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_106" name="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XIII" name="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</a><br /><br /> +AFOOT IN SUMMER</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">On</span> the portage one may carry a pretty +heavy pack and think nothing of it, for +the end of the portage and the relaxation +of the paddle is just ahead. The portage +is merely an incident of the canoe trip.</p> + +<p>The foot traveler, however, has no canoe +to carry him and his outfit five or ten miles for +every mile he carries his outfit. He must carry +both himself and his outfit the entire distance +traversed. This is obvious, and it leads to the +conclusion that the outfit must be accordingly +reduced both in weight and bulk.</p> + +<p>How heavy a load may be easily transported +depends, of course, upon the man, but it is safe +to say that the inexperienced will find twenty-five +pounds a heavy enough burden, and within +this limit must be included shelter, bed, and +one week's provisions; though ordinarily the +tramper will be able to renew his supply of +provisions almost daily.</p> + +<p>Under all ordinary circumstances a single<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_107" name="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> +woolen blanket weighing not to exceed three +pounds will be found ample summer bedding. +A lean-to shelter tent seven feet long, four feet +wide and four feet high of one of the light +tenting materials previously described, weighs +less than three pounds and furnishes ample and +comfortable shelter. Blanket and tent may be +carried easily in a roll, the tent on the outside +to protect the blanket.</p> + +<p>To make the roll spread the tent upon the +ground, fold the blanket once, end for end, and +spread it upon the tent, the sides of the blanket +(<i>not</i> folded ends) toward the ends of the +tent. Fold in ends of tent over blanket and +roll up. Double the roll and tie together a +little above the ends with a stout string. The +roll, dropped over the head with center resting +upon one shoulder and the tied ends coming +together near the hip on the opposite side, may +be carried with little inconvenience. Blankets +are usually seventy-two inches wide, therefore +the roll should be about six feet in length before +it is doubled and the ends tied.</p> + +<p>A belt axe will be carried, in a sheath, upon +the belt, the remaining equipment and provisions +in a Nessmuk pack or a ruck sack. The +Nessmuk pack, sold by most outfitters, is about +<span class="dimension">12 × 20 × 5</span> inches in size and made of waterproofed +canvas. This will easily hold a nine-<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_108" name="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span>inch +frying pan with folding handle, an aluminum +pan <span class="dimension">7 × 3</span> inches with folding handle, a +pint cup (if you do not wish to carry the cup +on your belt), a spoon or two, a cooking knife, +a dish cloth and a dish towel, together with one +week's provisions, matches, etc. There will +still be room for a small bag containing the few +needed toilet articles and hand towel, and another +small bag containing one change of light-weight +woolen underwear and two pairs of +socks.</p> + +<p>The cooking outfit indicated is limited, but +quite ample. I have done very well for weeks +at a time with no other cooking utensils than +a pint cup and a sheath knife. But here we +cannot go into woodcraft or extreme concentration +of rations and outfit. We are considering, +rather, comfortable or moderately comfortable +outfits and how to pack or transport +them.</p> + +<p>Tent, blanket, axe, food and other equipment +above suggested will, if intelligently selected, +not go beyond the twenty-five pound +limit. The greatest weight will be in the food, +and each day will reduce this about two pounds. +If provisions can be purchased from day to day +these, of course, need not be carried, and the +remaining load will be very light indeed.</p> + +<p>I would suggest that a light sweater take the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_109" name="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> +place of a coat as it will be found more comfortable +and useful and may be carried on top +of the pack or in the blanket roll, for it will +rarely be worn save in the evening camp.</p> + +<p>A broad-brimmed felt hat, an outer shirt of +medium-weight flannel, khaki trousers and +strong but not too heavy shoes make a practical +and comfortable costume. Woolen socks +protect the feet from chafing. Some campers +like long German stockings, which serve also +for leggings, and wear thin cotton socks inside +them. In selecting shoes take into consideration +the kind of socks or stockings to be worn, +and see that the shoes are amply large though +not too large, for shoes too large are nearly +as uncomfortable as shoes too small.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_110" name="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XIV" name="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</a><br /><br /> +WITH SNOWSHOES AND TOBOGGAN</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">In</span> the mode of travel here to be considered +the voyageur, equipped with snowshoes, +hauls his provisions and entire camping +paraphernalia upon a toboggan or flat sled. +The toboggan (Indian ta´-bas-kan´) had its origin +in the prehistoric past among the Algonquin +Indians of northeastern America. It was designed +by them for the purpose of transporting +goods over trackless, unbeaten snow wastes +where sleds with runners could not be used, and +for this purpose it is unequaled.</p> + +<p>While for our purpose the conventionalized +toboggan sold by outfitters and designed for +hill sliding and general sport will answer very +well, the wilderness model in use by Indians +and trappers in our northern wilderness is a +better designed and preferable type for the +transportation of loads.</p> + +<p>Various lengths of toboggans are in use, +each intended for the particular purpose for +which it was built. The longest Indian tobog<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_111" name="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>gan +I ever saw was twelve feet in length, but +from six to eight feet is the ordinary length, +with a width of nine inches at the tip of the +curved nose, gradually increasing to fourteen +inches wide where the curve ends and the sliding +surface or bottom begins, and tapering away +to about six inches wide at the heel. The conventionalized +type averages from four to six +feet in length with a uniform width of about +fifteen inches from curve to heel.</p> + +<p>Some three or more crossbars, depending +upon the length of the toboggan, are lashed at +intervals across the top, the forward one at +the beginning of the curve where the nose begins +to turn upward, and on either side of the +toboggan from front to rear side bar, and +fastened to the side bars at their ends are side +ropes.</p> + +<p>Beaver-tail, bear's-paw, or swallow-tail +snowshoes, of Indian make, are the shapes best +adapted to the sort of travel we are considering. +These models are all broad and comparatively +short. The web should be of good +caribou babiche, closely woven for use upon +dry snow, and indeed for all-around conditions. +While on wet, soggy snow a coarse web may in +some respects be preferable it will not compare +in efficiency with the close web on loose +snow, or for all-around work under all sorts<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_112" name="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> +of conditions. Long, narrow snowshoes may +be very good for racing where the country is +smooth, but they are not suited to a rough, +wooded or broken country or to hummocky +snow.</p> + +<p>The best and most practical, as well as the +simplest sling or binding for the snowshoe is +made as follows: Cut from an Indian tanned +buckskin a thong about half an inch wide and +thirty inches in length. Thread one end of +this, from above down, through the web at one +side of the toe hole, and from the bottom up +at the opposite side. Pull it through until the +two ends are even. Draw the thong up at the +middle, where it crosses the toe hole, to make +a loop large enough to admit the toe under it, +but not large enough to permit the toe to slide +forward against the forward cross-bar. Wrap +the two ends of the thong around center of +loop two or three times bringing them forward +over the top and drawing them under and back +through the loop. Slip your toes under the +loop, bring the ends of the thong back, one +on either side of the foot, and tie snugly in +the hollow above your heel.</p> + +<p>This sling will hold well, will not chafe the +foot, and with it the snowshoe may be kicked +free from the foot or adjusted to the foot in an +instant.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_113" name="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></p> + +<p>Should the thongs stretch in moist weather, +the sling may be tightened by simply taking an +additional turn or two (without untying) +around the toe loop.</p> + +<p>I believe that lamp-wicking would answer as +well as buckskin thongs, though I have never +used it because I have always carried an ample +supply of buckskin.</p> + +<p>The best underclothing for the winter trail +is good weight—though not the heaviest—woolen. +Two suits should be carried besides +the suit worn. Underclothing should not fit the +body too snugly. It is better that it should be +a size too large than an exact fit.</p> + +<p>The outer shirt should be of flannel, and of +good quality, though not too heavy.</p> + +<p>Hudson's Bay Company trappers wear +good-weight moleskin trousers, almost entirely +to the exclusion of other fabrics, and I adopted +them several years ago as superior to any +other. They are wind-proof and warm and +are particularly well adapted to the rough +work of the trail.</p> + +<p>The ordinary coat is not at all adapted to +the northern wilderness in winter, for it will not +protect against drifting snow and driving blizzard. +In its stead the Eskimo adickey should +be worn.</p> + +<p>Any seamstress who can cut and make an<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_114" name="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> +ordinary work shirt can make an adickey if +your outfitter cannot supply it. This garment +is slipped on over the head like a shirt, and +has a hood attached to draw over the cap as a +neck and head protection. The neck opening +is large enough to permit the head to pass +through it without the necessity of a buttoned +opening in front, for no matter how closely +buttoned a garment may be drifting snow will +find its way in. In length the adickey reaches +half way between hip and knees and is made +circular at the bottom. The hood should be +of ample proportion to pull over the cap +loosely, with a drawstring encircling the front +by which it may be drawn snugly to the face. +A fringe of muskrat or other fur around the +face increases the comfort, the fur acting as a +protection against drifting snow. While white +Hudson's Bay Company kersey cloth is a favorite +fabric for this garment, it may be made of +any woolen blanket duffle or similar cloth.</p> + +<p>Over the kersey adickey another adickey of +some smooth-surfaced, strong material, preferably +moleskin, should be worn. This outside +adickey should of course be just enough larger +than the kersey or blanket adickey to fit over +it easily. The adickeys may be worn singly +or together, according to the demands of the +weather.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_115" name="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span></p> + +<p>A Pontiac shirt, to be worn under the adickeys +in extremely cold weather, should be included +in the outfit. This will serve, too, in +camp, when the adickeys are laid aside.</p> + +<p>A round cap of fur or heavy cloth provided +with flaps to turn down over the ears makes +the best head protection. The hoods of the +two adickeys, as before stated, should be large +enough to draw over this.</p> + +<p>Very important indeed is the question of foot +dress. Not only must we aim to secure the +greatest possible freedom and ease in walking, +but the ever-present danger of frostbite must +also be guarded against.</p> + +<p>Socks should be of wool, of the home-knit +variety, and besides the pair worn, three or +four extra pairs should be carried in the kit.</p> + +<p>Knit socks will not be sufficient protection, +however, and where two or three pairs are +worn they are certain to bunch or wrinkle, with +chafed and sore feet as a result. All Hudson's +Bay Company stores keep in stock a +white fuzzy woolen duffle of blanket thickness. +If you are making your start from a Post purchase +some of this duffle and have one of the +women at the Post make you a pair of knee-length +stockings of the duffle to pull over your +knit socks, and two pairs of slippers of the +same material, one just large enough to fit<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_116" name="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> +over the foot of the long stockings, the other +just a little larger to fit over all. These should +be made of proper size, to obviate wrinkles. +The larger outfitters carry in stock good wool +duffle, and will make these to fit properly.</p> + +<p>In crisp, cold weather, when the snow never +softens or gets moist even under the midday +sun, buckskin moccasins should be the outer +footwear. Ordinary leather will freeze stiff, +stop the proper circulation of blood, and +certainly lead to frosted feet. The moccasins +should be made with high tops, reaching above +the ankles, with buckskin strings to wrap +around and secure them. Moccasins are light +to pack, and it is always well to carry a couple +of extra pairs, to have on hand in case of +emergency.</p> + +<p>Leggings of moleskin (or some other strong, +pliable cloth) large enough to push the foot +through protect the legs. These should be +knee high, with a drawstring to secure them +just below the knee. Ordinary canvas leggings +will not do. The leggings <i>must</i> be made in +one piece, without side buttons or other fastenings, +for otherwise snow will work through to +the great discomfort of the wearer.</p> + +<p>I have a pair of buckskin moccasins sewn to +legs of harbor sealskin, the hair side of the +sealskin out. This arrangement is preferable<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_117" name="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> +to separate leggings but sealskin legs are difficult +to procure.</p> + +<p>Ordinarily I have found one pair of knit +socks, one pair of the long duffle stockings described +above and one pair of the duffle slippers, +worn inside the buckskin moccasins, quite sufficient.</p> + +<p>The knit socks may be done away with entirely +and also one pair of duffle slippers if +rabbit-skin socks are to be had. These are +worn with the hair next the foot, and are very +warm and soft.</p> + +<p>In weather when the snow softens and becomes +wet at midday, buckskin moccasins will +not do, for the least moisture penetrates buckskin. +In such weather sealskin boots are the +best foot protection. They are waterproof, +pliable and light. Sealskin boots for this purpose +have neither soles nor heels. They are +simply sealskin moccasins with legs, secured +with drawstrings below the knee. These are +of Eskimo make, and not generally obtainable +though they may be purchased in Newfoundland. +Oil-tanned moccasins, or larrigans, are +the next best moist-snow foot gear.</p> + +<p>Buckskin mittens with one or two inner pairs +of mittens of thick wool duffle, will protect the +hands in the coldest weather. One pair should +be a little smaller than the other, that it may<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_118" name="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> +fit snugly into the larger pair without wrinkles, +and the larger pair of a size to fit in the same +manner into the buckskin mittens. When the +weather is too warm for both pairs, one pair +may be removed. A fringe of muskrat or +other fur around the wrists of the buckskin +mittens protects the wrists from drifting snow.</p> + +<p>A pad of rabbit-skin worn across the forehead +will protect it from intense cold. Hunting +hoods of knit camel's hair worsted are a +pretty good head protection, particularly at +night. They cover the whole head except the +face, and may be drawn up over the chin. +Mouth and nose must not be covered, or the +breath will quickly form a mass of ice upon +the face.</p> + +<p>One caution, though it may seem a digression, +may be made: If the nose or cheeks become +frosted, as will certainly happen sooner +or later to one traveling in a very low temperature, +<i>do not rub snow upon the frosted part</i>. +Snow rubbed on is pretty certain to fracture +and remove sections of the skin. The Eskimo +way is to hold or rub the frosted part with +the bare hand until frost has been removed, +and is far superior.</p> + +<p>The clothing outfit above described will be +found ample. Extra trousers or other extra +outer garments are not needed. <i>Let all hang<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_119" name="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> +loosely upon the body.</i> Nothing should fit +snugly.</p> + +<p>A pair of smoked or amber goggles should +always be included in the winter outfit. Amber +is more effective than smoked glass, +though ordinarily the latter will do. The goggles +should be fastened with a string to slip +over the back of the head. <i>No metal should +touch the flesh.</i></p> + +<p>The best low temperature sleeping bag is +one of caribou skin made with the hair inside. +Under ordinary conditions, however, a waterproofed +canvas bag lined with good woolen +blankets will do as well, though such a bag +with sufficient blanket lining to give it warmth +equal to that of the caribou skin bag would +be much heavier and more bulky than the latter. +A bag lined with four thicknesses of +llama wool duffle (that is, four thicknesses +over and four beneath the sleeper), however, +should not weigh more than ten pounds, and +would correspond in warmth to one lined with +blankets weighing twenty pounds.</p> + +<p>An A or wedge tent will be found the best +model for winter travel. A sheet-iron tent +stove <i>with bottom</i> and telescoping pipe will +make the tent warm and snug. The tent +should be fitted with an asbestos ring at the +stovepipe hole as a protection. A pack cloth<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_120" name="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> +or tarpaulin will serve as an adequate and +comfortable tent floor.</p> + +<p>It is never safe or advisable for one to travel +in the wilderness alone, for a sprained ankle +or broken leg in an isolated region would be +more than likely to result in death.</p> + +<p>In the Hudson Bay country two pounds of +flour, one pound of fat pork, with baking powder, +tea and sugar, form the daily ration for a +man. It is well when possible to carry frozen +fresh meat, free from bone, with a proportion +of desiccated vegetables to vary the diet. Butter +makes a tasty variety to the fat, for it will +remain sweet at this season. Prunes and chocolate +are both worth while.</p> + +<p>Or if the journey is to be extended the +menu may be simplified by the introduction +of pemmican and the elimination of other +articles. Pemmican is the best condensed +food ever invented for cold weather work. +One pound of pemmican and a quarter +pound of pilot biscuit, as a daily ration, will +sustain a man at hard work, though it will +prove a monotonous diet. The above is +merely suggested as a basis. It may be expanded +or contracted as circumstances require +without disturbing its mean value. Let it be +remembered, however, that ordinary bread +and other moist foodstuffs will freeze as hard<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_121" name="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> +as stone. Jerked venison and desiccated vegetables +make tasty and sustaining additions to +the ration, and will not freeze.</p> + +<p>A man is supposed to be able to haul at good +speed upon a toboggan a load equal to his own +weight. Therefore two men, each weighing +150 pounds, should between them haul 300 +pounds. Camp equipment, tent axes, guns, +bedding, extra underclothing and all personal +belongings of both, if proper care be exercised +in selection, should weigh not to exceed +140 pounds. Add 80 pounds of food, and we +have 220 pounds, or a maximum load of 110 +pounds for each. The tent and general camp +outfit is indeed sufficient for four men. It is +presumed that the aluminum cooking outfit +previously described will be chosen. Some +eliminations, as, for example, that of the folding +baker, might easily be made without serious +loss of comfort.</p> + +<p>To secure the load upon the toboggan, arrange +the bags in which it is packed evenly, +taking care that no part of the load extends +beyond the sides of the toboggan. Adjust the +tarpaulin or canvas ground cloth neatly over +it. Secure one end of your lash rope to the +side rope on one side at the rear. Bring the +other end over and under the side rope opposite. +Cross it back over the load and over and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_122" name="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> +under side rope to front of next crossbar, and +so on to front crossbar, taking slack as you +proceed. From front to rear criss-cross rope +in same manner over load and under side ropes, +forming diamonds where the rope crosses itself +on top of load. Bring the end of rope under +side rope at rear, take in all slack and tie.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_123" name="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XV" name="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV</a><br /><br /> +WITH DOGS AND KOMATIK</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">In</span> considering equipment for dog and +sledge traveling, we must constantly bear +in mind the necessity of keeping down +weight and bulk. Not long since, while visiting +the establishment of a New York City +outfitter, I saw an equipment which a sportsman +ambitious for experience with dogs and +komatik (sledge) had selected for a month's +journey which he was about to undertake. Exclusive +of provisions there was enough material +to weight down four eight-dog teams. +Among other things was a specially designed +tent stove that would have tipped the scales at +upwards of one hundred pounds.</p> + +<p>The would-be traveler declared with pride +that he "did not intend to have cold camps." +It certainly gave me "cold feet" to contemplate +his outfit. It was the most ridiculous +and impracticable conglomerate aggregation of +camping material that I have ever seen put to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_124" name="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span>gether, +and I doubt if the would-be traveler +ever found a sufficient number of dogs at any +one point to transport it.</p> + +<p>While it is the aim of every experienced +camper to obtain the greatest degree of comfort +of which circumstances will admit, the +voyager with dogs cannot hope to carry with +him the luxuries of a metropolitan hotel, and +one soon learns how little after all is really +necessary to make one comfortable.</p> + +<p>How much weight a team of eight good +dogs can haul depends upon the character of +the country and the condition of the snow or +ice. Under very favorable conditions I have +seen such a team make good progress with +twelve hundred pounds. Ordinarily, however, +eight hundred pounds is a full load, and if +much rough ice, hilly country or soft snow is +encountered six hundred pounds will be found +all too heavy. I have heard of cases, when +traveling was exceptionally good, of dogs covering +upwards of one hundred miles a day. +The biggest day's travel I ever made with dogs +was sixty miles, but often I have toiled day after +day, pulling and hauling with the animals at +the traces, lifting the komatik over rough +places, or packing a trail for the team with my +snowshoes, to find myself rewarded with less +than ten miles when camping time arrived.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_125" name="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span></p> + +<p>In selecting outfit the region to be visited +will be a factor to take into consideration. It +would be quite impossible to discuss adequately +in a single chapter all the phases of dog travel +to be provided for. We shall therefore leave +out of consideration polar outfitting, or outfitting +for other unusual work, which the reader +of this will scarcely be likely to undertake.</p> + +<p>The clothing suggested in the chapter on +snowshoe and toboggan travel is equally well +suited to travel with dogs and komatik. Should +the voyager's ambition, however, draw him +within the sub-arctic regions or across the Arctic +Circle some additional protection will be +needed.</p> + +<p>In the far Arctic the natives wear trousers +of either polar bear skin or caribou skin, with +an upper garment of caribou skin called, in +Greenland, the "kulutar;" in Labrador, the +"kulutuk." The only difference between the +adickey and the kulutuk is that the one is made +of cloth, the other of caribou skin. In Ungava +I supplied myself with caribou skin trousers, +which, as is the custom there, I drew on +over my moleskin trousers in windy or intensely +cold weather.</p> + +<p>The kulutuk takes the place of the moleskin +adickey. That is to say, the kersey adickey +worn under the kulutuk will be found ample<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_126" name="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> +protection in any weather, and often the kulutuk +of itself will be found sufficient.</p> + +<p>Kulutuk and skin trousers are worn hair side +out. Were they worn with the hairy side in, +they would accumulate moisture exuded by the +body, and the moisture would freeze, presently +transforming the hair into a mass of ice. A +friend of mine going to the Arctic for the first +time as a member of one of Peary's early +Greenland expeditions, turned his kulutuk inside +out and donned it with the hairy side next +the body. The Eskimos laughed, and resenting +their levity he assured them it was much +warmer worn in that manner than as they wore +it. "No," said one of them, "if it were warmer +worn that way the animals would wear +their fur inside." My friend quickly learned +by experience the logic of the Eskimo's argument.</p> + +<p>Deerskin kulutuk and trousers are not easily +purchased, though along any coast where seals +are captured similar garments of sealskin may +be procured, which, though not equal to deerskin +garments, answer very well. The skin of +the young harbor seal (the ranger seal) is best +for the purpose, as skins of other species are +too thick and heavy. When made of sealskin +the upper garment is called a "netsek."</p> + +<p>I discovered when traveling among them<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_127" name="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> +that some of the Moravian missionaries of the +Labrador coast wore a buckskin suit under +their ordinary trousers and outer shirt. Such +a suit is much lighter than deerskin trousers +and kulutuk, and serves nearly as well. It is +not difficult to purchase buckskin from which +one may have such a suit made. It is wind-proof +and very light.</p> + +<p>All skin garments, including moccasins, +should be sewn with animal sinew. Ordinary +thread will quickly break out and will not do. +Thread-sewn moccasins are factory-made, and +will give very little service.</p> + +<p>The types of snowshoes suggested in the +chapter on snowshoe and toboggan travel are +the types also best suited to dog and komatik +work. Long snowshoes would be very much +in the way when one has to go to the traces and +haul with the dogs or lift and assist the komatik +over rough places; and this becomes the +rule rather than the exception as one goes +North.</p> + +<p>Let me insist that the web should be of good +caribou babiche, and not the ordinary rawhide +used in many of the snowshoes offered for sale. +The former will not stretch when wet, while +the latter will stretch and bag so badly as to +render the snowshoe practically useless.</p> + +<p>It is well to wrap the frame on either side<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_128" name="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> +where the babiche is drawn around it, with +buckskin or sealskin. Otherwise even a slight +crust upon the snow will in time cut the babiche +strands. Wrapping the snowshoe in this manner +will at least double its life.</p> + +<p>What was said in reference to tent, small +sheet-iron stove and general camp and cooking +outfit in the previous chapter will apply here, +as well as directions heretofore given for packing +in waterproof bags. In selecting the sleeping +bag, give first preference to one of deerskin.</p> + +<p>In a barren region where firewood is not to +be had, it will be necessary to carry an alcohol +or kerosene burner and stock of fuel. The +former is preferable on account of the low +freezing point of alcohol. Alcohol or oil +should be secured in tin cases. It is regularly +put up in this way by dealers.</p> + +<p>In such a region, too, it may be necessary to +carry snow knives with which to cut blocks of +snow for the erection of snow igloos as shelter. +These knives resemble somewhat the +machete. One cannot, however, learn to build +a snow igloo properly without long practice. +This phase of the work is merely referred to as +interesting; for anyone traveling in a country +where snow house shelter is necessary will secure +the assistance of a native, who will attend<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_129" name="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> +to proper sledge outfitting at the point of departure.</p> + +<p>On regular lines of dog travel opportunities +to renew the provision supply will frequently +occur, and cabins for night shelter will be +found. Therefore the food outfit will depend +upon the country to be traversed. Where long +stretches occur between supply points, however, +fat pork, pilot bread, tea and sugar should +form the basis. The very best possible food, +however, for this work is pemmican, pilot +bread, tea and sugar. Of course a little coffee +may be carried, but it is bulky.</p> + +<p>The traveler will make his selection carefully, +building around pork, pilot bread and +pemmican with other articles of food like +desiccated vegetables from which water has +been eliminated. Too much salt meat opens +the door to scurvy, unless sufficient variation +in the way of vegetables, fish, or fresh meat +is introduced. Dessicated cranberries are an +excellent preventive. A man can do good +hard work day in and day out, as already +stated, upon one pound of pemmican and a +quarter pound of pilot bread as a daily ration, +and such a ration offers no danger of scurvy.</p> + +<p>Dog pemmican is the best dog food, and the +lightest, for dogs will do pretty well upon one +pound of pemmican each a day. To do well<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_130" name="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> +the animals should be given plenty of fat, +when pemmican is not available, though not a +clear fat diet, for that will make them sick. +Three-quarters of a pound of fat and three-quarters +of a pound of meat or fish is an ordinary +ration. Dogs are fed but once a day—at +night.</p> + +<p>The number of dogs in a team varies, but +the average team is composed of seven or +eight. Eight or nine is the most economical +number so far as results are concerned.</p> + +<p>In the Northwest dogs are harnessed tandem. +This is the white man's method. In the +Northeast they are harnessed fan fashion—the +Eskimo method. That is to say, each dog +has an individual trace secured to the end of a +single thong, leading out from the bow of the +komatik and called the bridle. The individual +traces are of various lengths. The dog with +the longest trace is the leader of the pack, and +particularly trained to respond to the driver's +directions. The other dogs will follow his +lead.</p> + +<p>For open country and sea ice travel the Eskimo +method is probably best, as the work is +more evenly distributed and the driver can always +tell whether each dog is doing his share +of the work, but for narrow trails and woods +travel the tandem method is more practicable.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_131" name="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span></p> + +<p>Dogs are good, bad and indifferent. One +seldom has an opportunity to pick one's dogs +discriminately, and rarely may one purchase +them outright unless contracted for a year in +advance, for the native dog owner seldom +maintains animals in excess of his requirements +in the ordinary routine of his life. The +traveler will usually be able, however, to hire +a team by employing the owner to drive it, and +the owner of a team will get much more work +out of his dogs than a stranger to the dogs +can hope to do.</p> + +<p>At least a year's experience is necessary to +enable a white man to handle a dog team with +anything approaching efficiency, and even then +one cannot hope to approach the performance +of an Eskimo. The failure to enlist Eskimos +as dog drivers has been the real cause of the +failure of many an Arctic expedition.</p> + +<p>It is advised, then, that the traveler employ +at so much per day or for the trip driver and +dogs. It is an unsafe experiment to start off +with a dog team unattended by an experienced +man. The owner of the team will supply also +the necessary dog harness, his own dog whip +and general dog traveling paraphernalia, including +the komatik.</p> + +<p>Sledges or komatiks vary in different localities +as to width, length and minor methods of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_132" name="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> +construction. The average komatik is two feet +wide and ten feet long but as stated, they vary +in different localities, a uniform width being +maintained to suit the local conditions of the +region in which they are used. For example, +wide and comparatively short komatiks are +employed in Quebec, while the Ungava komatik +is but sixteen inches wide. These latter komatiks +are usually fifteen or sixteen feet in +length, however. The runners stand ten inches +high. This is, in fact, the heaviest and most +efficient komatik I have ever seen. Each runner +is made from a single piece of timber and +is from two and one-half to three inches thick. +It is designed for the roughest possible use, and +is, I believe, better adapted to this purpose than +the Greenland komatik because more substantially +built. The latter is peculiar in that it has +upstands at the rear for guiding it.</p> + +<p>Crossbars, extending an inch or so on either +side of the runners and from one to two inches +apart, are lashed into place with rawhide. +When the rawhide shrinks the komatik becomes +firm. Iron fastenings being rigid would +break too readily, particularly in intense cold, +to be reliable.</p> + +<p>The traveler will do well, therefore, to purchase +if he does not hire his komatik at the +point of departure, as in so doing he will se<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_133" name="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span>cure +one of correct design for the region to be +traversed.</p> + +<p>It is well to have a box made the width of +the komatik two or three feet long, and about +fourteen inches deep to lash upon the rear end +of the komatik in which cooking utensils and +a portion of the food supply, as well as odds +and ends, may be carried. This should be supplied +with a hinged cover, and hook or clasp +by which the cover may be securely fastened +down.</p> + +<p>The best lash for securing the load in position +is one of sealskin, though ordinary hemp +rope will do. Before lashing, the tarpaulin +should be neatly folded over the top of load to +protect it.</p> + +<p>One end of the lash is secured to an end of +the crossbar at the forward end of the load, +brought across the load and under the other +end, then across, skipping a couple of crossbars, +and back again skipping a couple of crossbars, +thus threading it from side to side under +the ends of every second or third crossbar to +the rear bar, where it is brought across the +load to the opposite end of this crossbar and +crisscrossed across the load again to the forward +crossbar to be tied.</p> + +<p class="center" style="margin-top:1em">THE END</p> + +<div class="transnote"> + <strong>Transcriber's note:</strong> + + <p>Inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been retained. Punctuation has been normalized.</p> + + <p>The following errors have been corrected:</p> + + <ul> + <li>p. 46 "two or three hundreds" fixed to "... hundred"</li> + <li>p. 51 Chapter VII: fixed numbering of topics</li> + <li>p. 72 carelessless → carelessness</li> + <li>p. 85 change A<sub>1</sub> to A´ to match the illustration</li> + <li>p. 87 graps → grasps</li> + <li>p. 88 "betwee nthem" → "between them"</li> + <li>p. 90 fixed period instead of comma</li> + <li>p. 90 graps → grasps</li> + <li>p. 119 removed redundant "of"</li> + </ul> +</div> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44720 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/44720-h/images/03a.png b/44720-h/images/03a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..78ad8a9 --- /dev/null +++ b/44720-h/images/03a.png diff --git a/44720-h/images/03b.png b/44720-h/images/03b.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8ce1af2 --- /dev/null +++ b/44720-h/images/03b.png diff --git 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license + + +Title: Packing and Portaging + +Author: Dillon Wallace + +Release Date: January 20, 2014 [EBook #44720] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PACKING AND PORTAGING *** + + + + +Produced by Itay Perl and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + +Transcriber's Note: + + Words printed in italics are noted with underscores: _italics_. + Words printed in small-caps have been converted to ALL-CAPS. + + + + +PACKING AND PORTAGING + + + + + PACKING AND + PORTAGING + + BY + DILLON WALLACE + + Author of "The Lure of the Labrador Wild," "The + Long Labrador Trail," "Saddle and Camp in + the Rockies," "Across the Mexican + Sierras," etc. + + [Illustration: OUTING HANDBOOKS] + + [Illustration] + + NEW YORK + OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY + MCMXII + + + + + COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY + OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY + + All rights reserved + + + + +CONTENTS + + + CHAPTER PAGE + + I. PACKING AND THE OUTFIT 9 + + II. THE CANOE AND ITS EQUIPMENT 12 + + III. CAMP EQUIPMENT FOR THE CANOE TRIP 15 + + IV. PERSONAL EQUIPMENT 23 + + V. FOOD 31 + + VI. THE PORTAGE 38 + + VII. TRAVEL WITH SADDLE AND PACK ANIMALS 51 + + VIII. SADDLE AND PACK EQUIPMENT 56 + + IX. PERSONAL OUTFIT FOR THE SADDLE 64 + + X. ADJUSTING THE PACK 71 + + XI. SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES 77 + + XII. TRAVELING WITHOUT A PACK HORSE 101 + + XIII. AFOOT IN SUMMER 106 + + XIV. WITH SNOWSHOES AND TOBOGGAN 110 + + XV. WITH DOGS AND KOMATIK 123 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + PAGE + + Method of Slinging Load on Aparejo 58, 59 + + Sling for Racking on Crosstree Saddle 74 + + Squaw or Crosstree Hitch 79, 80 + + The Crosstree Diamond Hitch 82, 83 + + United States Army Diamond Hitch 85, 86 + + Lifting Hitch 93, 94 + + Stirrup Hitch 96 + + Saddle Hitch 97 + + + + +PACKING AND PORTAGING + + + + +CHAPTER I + +PACKING AND THE OUTFIT + + +Ordinarily the verb _to pack_ means to stow articles snugly into +receptacles, but in the parlance of the trail it often means to carry +or transport the articles from place to place. The _pack_ in the +language of the trail is the load a man or horse carries. + +Likewise, a _portage_ on a canoe route is a break between navigable +waters, over which canoe and outfit must be carried; or the word may be +used as a verb, and one may say, "I will portage the canoe," meaning "I +will carry the canoe." In the course of the following pages these terms +will doubtless all be used in their various significations. + +Save for the few who are able to employ a retinue of professional +guides and packers to attend to the details of transportation, the +one chief problem that confronts the wilderness traveler is that of +how to reduce the weight of his outfit to the minimum with the least +possible sacrifice of comfort. It is only the veriest tenderfoot that +deliberately endures hardships or discomforts where hardships and +discomforts are unnecessary. Experienced wilderness travelers always +make themselves as comfortable as conditions will permit, and there is +no reason why one who hits the trail for sport, recreation or health +should do otherwise. + +In a description, then, of the methods of packing and transporting +outfits the tenderfoot and even the man whose feet are becoming +calloused may welcome some hints as to the selection of compact, light, +but, at the same time, efficient outfits. These hints on outfitting, +therefore, I shall give, leaving out of consideration the details of +camp making, camp cookery and those phases of woodcraft that have no +direct bearing upon the prime question of packing and transportation on +the trail. + +Let us classify the various methods of wilderness travel under the +following heads: 1. By Canoe; 2. With Saddle and Pack Animals; 3. Afoot +in Summer; 4. On Snowshoes; 5. With Dogs and Sledge. Taking these in +order, and giving our attention first to canoe travel, it will be +found convenient further to subdivide this branch of the subject and +discuss in order: (a) The Canoe and its Equipment; (b) Camp Equipment +for a Canoe Trip; (c) Personal Equipment; (d) Food; (e) The Portage. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +THE CANOE AND ITS EQUIPMENT + + +A sixteen-foot canoe with a width of at least 33 inches and a depth +of at least 12 inches will accommodate two men, an adequate camping +outfit and a full ten weeks' provisions very nicely, and at the same +time not lie too deep in the water. A fifteen-foot canoe, unless it +has a beam of at least 35 inches and a depth of 12 inches or more, is +unsuitable. Three men with their outfit and provisions will require an +eighteen-foot canoe with a width of 35 inches or more and a depth of +no less than 13 inches, or a seventeen-foot canoe with a width of 37 +inches and 13 inches deep. The latter size is lighter by from ten to +fifteen pounds than the former, while the displacement is about equal. + +The best all-around canoe for cruising and hard usage is the +canvas-covered cedar canoe. Both ribs and planking should be of cedar, +and only full length planks should enter into the construction. +Where short planking is used the canoe will sooner or later become +hogged--that is, the ends will sag downward from the middle. + +In Canada the "Peterborough" canoe is more largely used than the +canvas-covered. These are to be had in both basswood and cedar. Cedar +is brittle, while basswood is tough, but the latter absorbs water +more readily than the former and in time will become more or less +waterlogged. + +Cruising canoes should be supplied with a middle thwart for convenient +portaging. Any canoe larger than sixteen feet should have three +thwarts. To lighten weight on the portage, and provide more room +for storing outfit, it is advisable to remove the cane seats with +which canvas canoes are usually provided. This can be readily done +by unscrewing the nuts beneath the gunwale which hold the seats in +position. + +Good strong paddles--sufficiently strong to withstand the heavy strain +to which cruising paddles are put--should be selected. On the portage +they must bear the full weight of the canoe; they will frequently be +utilized in poling up stream against stiff currents; and in running +rapids they will be subjected to rough usage. On extended cruises it is +advisable to carry one spare paddle to take the place of one that may +be rendered useless. + +Experienced canoemen pole up minor rapids. Poles for this purpose +can usually be cut at the point where they are needed, but pole +"shoes"--that is, spikes fitted with ferrules--to fit on the ends of +poles are a necessary adjunct to the outfit where poling is to be done. +Without shoes to hold the pole firmly on the bottom of the stream the +pole may slip and pitch the canoeman overboard. The ferrules should be +punctured with at least two nail holes, by which they may be secured to +the poles, and a few nails should be carried for this purpose. + +A hundred feet or so of half-inch rope should also be provided, to be +used as a tracking line and the various other uses for which rope may +be required. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +CAMP EQUIPMENT FOR A CANOE TRIP + + +Personal likes and prejudices have much to do with the form of tent +chosen. My own preference is for either the "A" or wedge tent, with the +Hudson's Bay model as second choice, for general utility. Either of +these is particularly adapted also to winter travel where the tent must +often be pitched upon the snow. If, however, the tent is only to be +used in summer, and particularly in canoe travel where a light, easily +erected model is desired, the Frazer tent is both ideal for comfort and +is an exceedingly light weight model for portaging. + +Duck or drill tents are altogether too heavy and quite out of date. +They soak water and are an abomination on the portage. The best tent is +one of balloon silk, _tanalite_, or of extra light green waterproofed +tent cloth. The balloon silk tent is very slightly heavier than either +of the others, but is exceedingly durable. For instance, a 7-1/3 × +7-1/3 foot "A" tent of either tanalite or extra light green waterproof +tent cloth, fitted with sod cloth, complete, weighs eight pounds, +while a similar tent of waterproof balloon silk weighs nine pounds. A +Hudson's Bay model, 6 × 9 feet, weighs respectively seven and seven and +one-half pounds. + +These three cloths are not only waterproof and practically rot proof, +but do not soak water, which is a feature for consideration where much +portaging is to be done and camp is moved almost daily. + +Some dealers recommend that customers going into a fly or mosquito +country have the tent door fitted with bobbinet. The idea is good, but +cheese cloth is much cheaper and incomparably better than bobbinet. + +The cheese-cloth door should be made rather full, and divided at the +center from tent peak to ground, with numerous tie strings to bring the +edges tight together when in use, and other strings or tapes on either +side, where it is attached to the tent, to reef or roll and tie it back +out of the way when not needed. + +When purchasing a light-weight tent, see that the dealer supplies a bag +of proper size in which to pack it. + +A pack cloth 6 × 7 feet in size, of brown waterproof canvas weighing +about 3-1/2 pounds, makes an excellent covering for the tent floor +at night. On the portage blankets and odds and ends will be packed +and carried on it. If one end and the two sides of the pack cloth are +fitted with snap buttons it may be converted into a snug sleeping bag +with a pair of blankets folded lengthwise, the bottom and sides of the +blanket secured with blanket safety pins as a lining for the bag. + +My standby for summer camping is a fine all-wool gray blanket 72 × 78 +inches in size and weighing 5-1/2 pounds. This I have found sufficient +even in frosty autumn weather--always, in fact, until the weather grows +cold enough to freeze streams and close them to canoe navigation. Used +as a lining for the improvised pack cloth sleeping bag, this blanket is +quite bedding enough and makes an exceedingly comfortable bed, too. + +A three-quarter axe with a 24- or 28-inch handle makes a mighty good +camp axe. A full axe is heavy and inconvenient to portage and the +lighter axe will serve every purpose in any country at any time. +Personally I favor the Hudson's Bay axe. This may be had fitted either +with a 24-inch or 18-inch handle. In the two-party outfit which we +are discussing there should be two axes, one of which may be fitted +with the shorter handle, but the other should have at least a 24- and +preferably a 28-inch handle. Every axe should have a leather sheath +or scabbard for convenient packing. The so-called pocket axes are too +small to be of practical use. The camper does not wish to miss the +luxury of the big evening camp-fire, and he can never provide for it +with a small hatchet or toy pocket axe. + +Cooking utensils of aluminum alloy are the lightest and best for the +trail. Tin and iron will rust, enamel ware will chip, and unalloyed +aluminum is too soft and bends out of shape. The best sporting goods +dealers carry complete outfits of aluminum alloy. I have used them in +the frigid North and in the tropics, in canoe, sledging, tramping and +horseback journeys, and can recommend them unequivocally, save perhaps +the frying pan. + +The two-man cooking and dining outfit should contain the following +utensils: + + 1 Pot with cover 7 × 6-1/2 inches, capacity three quarts. + 1 Coffee pot 6 × 6-1/8 inches, capacity two quarts. + 1 Steel frying pan 9-7/8 × 2 inches, with folding handle. + 1 Pan 9 × 3 inches, with folding handle, for mixing- and dish-pan. + 2 Plates 8-7/8 inches diameter. + 2 Cups. + 2 Aluminum alloy forks. + 2 Dessert spoons. + 1 Large cooking spoon. + 1 Dish mop. + 2 Dish towels. + +The regular aluminum alloy cup is too small for practical camp use. +There is an aluminum bowl, however, holding one pint, but without a +handle. This is about the right size for a practical cup, and I have a +handle riveted on it and use it as a cup. The top only of the handle +should be attached, that the cups may set one inside the other. The +heat conducting quality of aluminum makes it a question whether or not +enamel cups are not preferable. + +To pack the outfit snugly, set the mixing pan into the frying pan, the +handles of both pans folded, place the plates, one on top of the other, +in the mixing pan, the cooking pot on top of these, and the coffee pot +inside the cooking pot. The cups will fit in the coffee pot. The weight +of this outfit complete is 5-1/2 pounds. + +A waterproof canvas bag of proper size should be provided in which to +pack the utensils. Forks and spoons, wrapped in a dish towel, will fit +nicely in the canvas bag alongside the pots. + +_Waterproof_ canvas is suggested for the bag, not to protect the +utensils but because anything but waterproofed material will absorb +moisture and become watersoaked in rainy weather, adding materially to +the weight of the outfit. + +One of the handiest aids to baking is the aluminum reflecting baker. +An aluminum baker 16 × 18 inches when open, folds to a package 12 × 18 +inches and about two inches thick, and fitted into a waterproof canvas +case weighs, case and all, about four pounds. + +Broilers, fire irons, fire blowers or inspirators, as they are +sometimes called, and many other things that are convenient enough but +quite unnecessary, should never burden the outfit. Even though the +weight of some of them may be insignificant, each additional claptrap +makes one more thing to look after. There are a thousand and one +claptraps, indeed, that outfitters offer, but which do not possess +sufficient advantage to pay for the care and labor of transportation, +and my advice is, leave them out, one and all. + +Outfitters supply small packing bags of proper size to fit, one on top +of another, into larger waterproof canvas bags. These small bags are +made preferably of balloon silk. By using them the whole outfit may be +snugly and safely packed for the portage. + +In one of these small bags keep the general supply of matches, though +each canoeist should carry a separate supply for emergency in his +individual kit. + +In like manner two or three cakes of soap should be packed in another +small bag. Floating soap is less likely to be lost than soap that +sinks. + +A dozen candles will be quite enough. These if packed in a tin box of +proper size will not be broken. + +Repair kits should be provided. A file for sharpening axes and a +whetstone for general use are of the first importance. Include also a +pair of pincers, a ball of stout twine and a few feet of copper wire. A +tool haft or handle with a variety of small tools inside is convenient. +Either a stick of canoe cement, a small supply of marine glue, or +a canoe repair outfit such as canoe manufacturers put up and which +contain canvas, white lead, copper tacks, calor and varnish will be +found a valuable adjunct to the outfit should the canoe become damaged. +This tool and repair equipment should be packed in a strong canvas bag +small enough to drop into the larger nine-inch waterproof bag. + +A small leather medicine case with vials containing, in tabloid form, a +cathartic, an astringent (lead and opium pills are good) and bichloride +of mercury, suffices for the drug supply. Surgical necessities are: +Some antiseptic bandages, a package of linen gauze, a spool of +adhesive plaster and one-eighth pound of absorbent cotton, wrapped in +oiled silk. In addition most campers find it convenient to have in +their personal outfit a pair of small scissors. These are absolutely +necessary if one is to put on a bandage properly. The regular surgical +scissors, the two blades of which hook together at the center, are the +most convenient sort, both to use and to carry, and have the keenest +edge. + +A pair of tweezers takes up but little room and is useful for +extracting splinters or for holding a wad of absorbent cotton in +swabbing out a wound, as cotton will, of course, become septic if held +in the fingers. + +A small scalpel is better than the knife blade for opening up an +infection, as it is more convenient to handle and will make a deep +short incision when desired. These will all be packed in one of the +small balloon silk bags. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +PERSONAL EQUIPMENT + + +Each canoeist should have a personal kit or duffle bag of waterproof +canvas. These may be purchased from outfitters and are usually 36 +inches deep and of 12, 15, 18 or 21 inches diameter. The 12-inch +bag, however, is amply large to accommodate all one needs in the way +of clothing and other personal gear. This, as well as every other +waterproof canvas packing bag mentioned, excepting the cooking kit bag, +should be supplied with a handle on the bottom and one on the side. +These bags not only keep the contents dry, but, as previously stated, +do not absorb moisture to add to the weight, a very essential feature +where every unnecessary pound must be eliminated. I was once capsized +in a rapid and my duffle bag lay half a day in the water before it was +recovered. The contents were perfectly dry. + +One suit of medium weight woolen underclothing in addition to the suit +worn is ample for a short trip. Four extra pairs of thick woolen socks +should be provided--the home-knit kind. An excellent material for +trousers to be worn on the trail is moleskin, though for midsummer wear +a good quality khaki is first rate. Moleskin, however, will withstand +the hardest usage and to my mind is superior to khaki or any other +material where wading is necessary and on cold or rainy days, as it is +very nearly windproof. A good leather belt should be worn, even though +suspenders support the trousers. + +The outer shirt should be of light weight gray or brown flannel and +provided with pockets. A blue flannel shirt of the best quality is all +right. The cheaper qualities of blue crock, and this feature makes +them objectionable. If the outer shirt is too heavy it will be found +cumbersome under the exertion of the portage. + +A large, roomy Pontiac shirt to slip over the outer shirt and use as a +sweater is much preferable to a sweater on the trail. It is windproof +and warm. Do not take a coat--the Pontiac shirt will be both coat and +sweater. A coat is always in the way on a canoe trip and makes the pack +that much heavier. + +A pair of low leather or canvas wading shoes for river work and +larrigans or shoe pacs for ordinary wear, large enough to admit two +pairs of woolen socks, are best suited to canoeing. Heavy, hobnailed +mountaineer shoes or boots are not in place here. + +Heavy German socks, supplied with garter and clasp to hold them in +position, are better than canvas leggings, and protect the legs from +chill at times when wading is necessary in icy waters. + +Any kind of an old slouch hat is suitable. + +Some canoeists take with them a suit of featherweight oilskin. +Personally I have never worn rainproof garments when canoeing. Once +I carried a so-called waterproof coat, but it was not waterproof. It +leaked water like a sieve, and was no protection even from the gentlest +shower. I am inclined, however, to favor featherweight oilskins, though +not while portaging--they would be found too warm--but when paddling in +rainy weather, or to wear on rainy days about camp. + +If the trip is to extend into a black fly or mosquito region, +protection against the insects should be provided. A head net of black +bobbinet that will set down upon the shoulders, with strings to tie +under the arms, is about the best arrangement for the head. Old loose +kid gloves, with the fingers cut off, and farmers' satin elbow sleeves +to fit under the wrist bands of the outer shirt will protect the +wrists and hands. The armlets should be well and tightly sewn upon the +gloves, for black flies are not content to attack where they alight, +and will explore for the slightest opening and discover some undefended +spot. They are, too, a hundred times more vicious than mosquitoes. + +There are many receipts for fly dope, but in a half hour after +application perspiration will eliminate the virtue of most mixtures and +a renewed application must be made. Nessmuk's receipt is perhaps as +good as any, and the formula is as follows: + + Oil of pine tar 3 parts + Castor oil 2 parts + Oil of pennyroyal 1 part + +If when you were a child your father held your nose as an inducement +for you to open your mouth while your mother poured castor oil down +your throat, the odor of the castor oil rising above the odors of the +other ingredients will revive sad memories. Indeed it is claimed for +this mixture that the dead will rise and flee from its compounded odor +as they would flee from eternal torment. It certainly should ward off +such little creatures as black flies and mosquitoes. + +Another effective mixture is: + + Oil of tar 3 parts + Sweet oil 3 parts + Oil of pennyroyal 1 part + Carbolic acid 3 per cent. + +An Indian advised me once to carry a fat salt pork rind in my pocket, +and now and again rub the greasy side upon face and hands. I tried it +and found it nearly as good as the dopes. + +Unless one penetrates, however, far north In Canada during black fly +season these extraordinary precautions will scarcely be necessary. +There Is nowhere In the United States a region where black flies are +really very bad (though perhaps I am drawing invidious comparisons in +making the statement), and even in interior Newfoundland they are, +compared with the farther north, tame and rather inoffensive though +always troublesome. + +The choice of fishing tackle, guns and arms depends largely upon +personal taste. Steel rods of the best quality will serve better than +split bamboo on an extended trip where one, continuously on the portage +trail, is often unable to properly dry the tackle. The steady soaking +of a split bamboo rod for a week is likely to loosen the sections and +injure a fine rod. A waterproof canvas or pantasote case is the right +sort for the rod--leather cases are unpractical on a cruising trip. + +Leather gun cases, too, under like circumstances will become +watersoaked, and under any circumstances they are unnecessarily heavy. +Use canvas cases therefore in consideration for your back. They are +light and in a season of rain immeasurably better than leather. + +Economize, also, on ammunition. Do your target practice before you hit +the trail. A hunter that cannot get his limit of big game with twenty +rifle cartridges is an unsafe individual to turn loose in the woods. + +For spruce grouse, ptarmigan and other small game a ten-inch barrel, +22-caliber single-shot pistol is an excellent arm, provided one has had +some previous experience in its use. It is not a burden on the belt, +and a handful of cartridges in the pocket are not noticed. + +Pack your cartridges in a strong canvas bag, your gun grease and +accessories in another receptacle. + +On the belt also carry a broad-pointed four-inch blade skinning knife +of the ordinary butcher knife shape. This will be your table knife, as +well as cooking and general utility knife. + +In the pocket carry a stout jackknife, a waterproof matchbox, always +kept well filled, and a compass. + +A film camera is more practical for the trail than a plate camera for +many reasons, one of which is weight. Plates are heavy and easily +broken. It is well to have each roll of films put up separately in +a sealed, water-tight tin. Dealers will supply them thus at five +cents extra for each film roll. A waterproof pantasote case, too, is +better than leather, for leather in a long-continued rain will become +watersoaked, as before stated. + +If a plate camera is carried the plates may be packed in a small light +wooden box--a starch box, for instance. The box will protect them under +ordinary circumstances. Film rolls, however, may be carried in a small +canvas bag that will slip into one of the larger waterproof bags. + +My object in outlining outfit is rather to emphasize the possibilities +of selecting a light and efficient outfit that may be easily packed +and transported on the trail, than to evolve an infallible check list; +therefore I shall not attempt to name in detail toilet articles, +tobacco and odds and ends. Take nothing, however, save those things you +will surely find occasion to use, unless I may suggest an extra pipe, +should your pipe be lost. A small balloon silk bag will hold them, +together with a sewing case containing needles, thread, patches and +some safety pins. Another will hold the hand towels and hand soap in +daily use, while an extra hand towel may be stowed in your duffle bag. + +In concluding this chapter it may be pertinent to say that the novice +on the trail is pretty certain to burden himself with many things he +will seldom or never use. Take your outfitter into your confidence. +Tell him what sort of a trip you contemplate and he will advise you. +First-class outfitters are usually practical out-of-door men and +camping experts. They have made an extended study of the subject, for +it is part of their business to do so. Therefore, in selecting outfit, +it is both safe and wise to rely upon the advice of any responsible +outfitter. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +FOOD + + +The true wilderness voyager is willing to endure some discomforts on +the trail, to work hard and submit to black flies and other pests, but +as a reward he usually demands satisfying meals. There is, indeed, no +reason for him to deny himself a variety and a plenty, unless his trip +is to extend into months. Weight on the portage trail is always the +consideration that cuts down the ration. Packing on one's back a ration +to be used two or three months hence is discouraging. + +I have evolved a two-week food supply for two men, based upon the +United States army ration, varied as the result of my own experiences +have dictated. It offers not only great variety, but is an exceedingly +bountiful ration even for hungry men. Personal taste will suggest some +eliminations or substitutions that may be made without material loss +or change in weight. If there is certainty of catching fish or killing +game, or if opportunity offers for purchasing fresh supplies along +the trail, reductions in quantity may be made accordingly. For each +additional man, or for any period beyond two weeks, a proportionate +increase in quantity may be made. + + Bacon, 6 pounds. + Salt fat pork, 2 pounds. + Ham or canned meats, 5 pounds. + "Truegg" (egg powder), 1 pound (equals 4 dozen eggs.) + "Trucream" (milk powder), 1-1/2 pounds. + "Crisco," 3 pounds, (2 cans). + Fresh bread, 2 pounds. + Flour, 12 pounds. + Corn meal (yellow), 1 pound. + Rolled oats, 1 pound. + Rice, 1 pound. + Baking powder, 1/2 pound. + Potatoes (Dehydrated) riced, 2 pounds (equals 14 lbs. fresh potatoes). + Potatoes (Dehydrated) sliced, 1 pound (equals 7 lbs. fresh potatoes). + Carrots (Dehydrated), 1/4 pound (equals 3 lbs. fresh carrots). + Onions (Dehydrated), 1/4 pound (equals 3-3/4 lbs. fresh onions). + Cranberries (Dehydrated), 1/4 pound (equals 2-1/2 qts. fresh fruit). + Beans, 2 pounds. + Green peas (Dehydrated), 1/4 pound (equals 1-1/4 lbs. fresh peas). + Coffee (ground), 2 pounds. + Tea, 1/2 pound. + Cocoa, 1/2 pound. + Sugar (granulated), 5 pounds. + Preserves, 1 pound. + Lemons, 1/2 dozen. + Lime tablets, 1/2 pound. + Prunes (stoned), 1 pound. + Raisins, 1 pound. + Salt, 1 pound. + Pepper, 1/4 ounce. + +This gives each man a nominal ration of 14-1/2 pounds a week, or about +two pounds a day. In reality, however, it is more bountiful than the +summer garrison ration and far more liberal than the summer marching +ration of the army. This is brought about by the pretty general +elimination of water, largely through the substitution of dehydrated +vegetables and fruits for fresh and canned goods. The dehydrated +products designated are in every particular equal to fresh products and +far superior to canned goods. Dehydrated vegetables possess all the +qualities, in fact, of fresh vegetables, with only the large percentage +of water removed. Water is introduced restoring them to original form +usually by boiling. No chemical is used as a preservative as is the +case with all dried vegetables put up by foreign manufacturers. + +It will be noticed that butter has been omitted and that "Crisco" has +been introduced in the place of lard and to be used in cooking instead +of butter. Crisco is a product of edible vegetable oils. It has the +appearance of lard but can be heated to a much higher temperature +without burning, is fully equal to butter when used as shortening, and +dough bread, fish or other articles of food fried in it will not absorb +it so readily as they will lard, nor will it transmit the flavor of +one food to another. For example, fish may be fried in Crisco, and +dough bread or anything else fried in the same Crisco will have not the +slightest flavor of fish. It will keep fresh and sweet under conditions +that turn lard and butter rancid. Butter quickly becomes strong, and +the heat of the sun keeps it in an oily, unpalatable condition, even +when packed in air-tight tins. The most lavish user of butter will +discover that it is no hardship to go without it when in camp. Crisco, +put up in handy, friction-top cans, can be purchased from nearly any +grocer. + +Coffee should be carried in friction-top tins. On extended trips +coffee is too bulky to carry save as a special treat. A pound of tea +will go as far as many pounds of coffee; therefore on trips extending +beyond three or four weeks the proportion of tea should be increased +and that of coffee diminished. On short trips, however, such as we are +discussing, there is no reason and most Americans usually prefer it +even when in camp. + +Each article of food should have its individual bag, to fit into one +of the larger waterproof canvas bags described, though the bacon and +fat pork, each piece wrapped in paraffin (waxed) paper, may be packed +in one bag. Paraffin paper will protect other packages in the bag from +grease. Several articles of small bulk and weight such as dehydrated +carrots, onions, cranberries and green peas each in its original +package or a small muslin bag suitable in size may be carried in a +single balloon silk bag. The small bags containing such articles as are +not in daily and frequent use should be stowed in the bottoms of the +canvas bags, while those in constant demand should be at the top where +they can be had without unpacking the entire bag. Every package or bag +should be plainly labeled with the nature of its contents. In labeling +them use ink, as pencil marks are too easily obliterated. Where a party +is composed of a sufficient number of people to make it worth while the +party ration for each day may be weighed out and packed in a separate +receptacle, thus making seven food packages for each week. This, +however, would be obviously unpractical where there are less than eight +or ten members of the party. + +No glass or crockeryware should be used, not only because of its +liability to break, but because of its unnecessary weight. + +A good way to carry the tin of baking powder is to sink it into the +sack of flour. The flour will protect it and preclude the possibility +of the cover coming off and the contents spilling out. Do not carry +prepared or self-raising flour on the trail. For many reasons it is +unpractical for trail use, though perhaps most excellent in the +kitchen at home. + +Throughout I have accentuated the advisability of waterproof covers for +everything. Every ounce of water absorbed by tent, bags, or package +covers, adds to the tedium of the trail by so much unnecessary weight. +When flour carried in an ordinary sack Is exposed to rain a paste +will form next the cloth, and presently harden into a crust that will +protect the bulk of flour from injury. But the flour used up in the +process of crust forming is a decided waste, and the paste, retaining a +degree of moisture, increases weight. + +I have suggested balloon silk for the small food bags to fit into the +larger waterproofed canvas bags, not only because it does not absorb +moisture, but because there will be no possibility of the contents +sifting through the cloth. If these or the cloth from which to make +them cannot be readily obtained, closely woven muslin will do. + +Should the canoeist desire to make his own bags and should he not find +it convenient to purchase waterproofed canvas, the ordinary canvas +which he will use may be waterproofed by the following process: + +In two gallons of boiling water dissolve three and one-half ounces of +alum. Rain water is best, though any soft water will do; but it _must +be soft water_ to obtain the best results. In another vessel dissolve +four ounces of sugar of lead in two gallons of soft water. Unite the +solutions when they have cleared by pouring into another vessel No. 1 +first, then No. 2. Let the solution stand over night, decant it into +a tub, free of any sediment that may have settled, and it is ready +for the canvas. The cloth should be put into the solution, thoroughly +saturated with it and then lightly wrung out, and hung up to dry. This +treatment will render canvas to a considerable extent, though not +completely, waterproof. + +Muslin for the smaller food bags may be waterproofed by painting it +with a saturate solution of turpentine and paraffin. + +Canned goods should be packed snugly in canvas bags, with cans on end, +that the sides, not the corners or edges, will rest against the back in +portaging. + +Camp chests in which to store food or other articles are carried by +some canoeists, but they add considerable weight to the outfit. The +best and most serviceable camp chest is one of indestructible fiber. +One with an inside measurement of 18 × 24 × 12 inches weighs twenty +pounds. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +THE PORTAGE + + +There are several types of pack harness offered by outfitters, but +it is generally conceded that the best method of carrying heavy or +medium-weight packs is with the tump line. In tump line carrying +the pack is supported by a broad band of leather passed across the +head--high up on the forehead--thus throwing the weight upon the strong +muscles of the neck, with no shoulder straps or other support. + +Canadian voyageurs, Hudson's Bay Company packers and Indians use the +tump line to the exclusion of all shoulder-carrying devices. Indeed, by +no other method would it be possible for them to transport upon their +backs through a rough country the heavy burdens which they are called +upon to carry. Experienced packers with the tump line will sometimes +portage loads of upwards of four hundred pounds. In tests of skill I +have seen a man carry in a single load the contents of three barrels of +flour--588 pounds. + +The tump line consists of a broad piece of leather some eighteen or +twenty inches in length (known as the head strap or headpiece), with a +leather thong usually about seven feet in length attached to each end, +the total length from the tip end of one thong to the tip end of the +other thong averaging about sixteen feet. + +Sometimes the two thongs are sewn to the headpiece, and again the +line is a single strip of leather, broadened in the center to form +the headpiece. The best tump lines, however, have the head strap as +a separate piece with a buckle at each end by which the thongs are +attached. This arrangement admits of adjustment, if necessary, to suit +the individual after the pack has been made up. + +There is a knack in tump line carrying, but the following directions +for making up various packs will give the novice sufficient insight, +with a little experience, to enable him to acquire the art. + +When the pack is to be made up wholly of bags, lay the tump line on +the ground with the thongs parallel to each other and from sixteen +to twenty inches apart, depending upon the length of the bags to be +packed. Place the bags across the thongs, one bag upon another, taking +care that the thongs are not so near the ends of the bags as to render +them liable to slip off when the pack is tied. Now lift the head strap +above the top bag and secure the pack by drawing the loose end of each +thong in turn tight around the bags and knotting it a few inches below +the buckle that attaches its other end to the headpiece. + +When a pack cloth is to be used, spread the pack cloth upon the thongs +of the tump line, stretched upon the ground in the manner above +described, and in the center of the pack cloth lay folded blankets and +other articles to be packed, making the pile about two feet long, and +taking care that hard substances are in the center, with blankets and +soft things outside. Now turn the sides of the pack cloth over the pack +and fold over the ends. If a bag is to be included, lay it upon the +pack after the cloth has been folded, and secure the whole as in the +former case. + +Another method of making up a pack with the pack cloth, common among +Canadian voyageurs, is as follows: Spread the cloth upon the ground, +and lay the tump line across it, the headpiece near one end and the +thongs a foot from the sides. Fold the sides of the cloth inward over +each thong. Now build up the pack in a neat pile about two feet long on +the folded cloth, taking care as before that hard things are placed in +the middle. Fold the end of the pack cloth with protruding thongs over +the pack, take a half turn with the loose end of a thong around the +other end near the headpiece, draw it tight until the end is closely +puckered, then knot it and draw up the other thong and secure it in +like manner. Now bring the free ends of the tump line to center of +pack, on top, cross them and pass them around middle of pack and tie. + +The knack of comfortable tump line carrying once the neck muscles have +become developed and hardened to the work is in properly balancing the +pack. With the headpiece resting high up upon the forehead the pack +should hang with its bottom no lower than the hips. Neither should it +be too high. A little experimenting will teach just where the proper +balance is to be found. If it is too high, lengthen the line, or if too +low shorten it by means of the buckles which attach the thongs to the +headpiece. + +Experienced packers pile additional bags or bundles on top of the +pack, the uppermost bundle standing higher than the head. In my own +experience I have found that an additional bag thus placed upon the +pack and resting against the back of my neck helped balance the load. +My favorite bag for this purpose is a forty or fifty pound bag of +flour, sometimes surmounted by a lighter bundle which rested partly +upon the flour and partly upon my head. + +The tenderfoot will be quite content to limit his early loads to sixty +or seventy pounds, and even then his first portages will not be what +he can conscientiously term experiences of unalloyed joy. Gradually, +however, he will learn the knack of tump packing and at the end of a +couple of weeks of daily experience will find himself able to negotiate +a load of one hundred pounds with some ease. + +All the various types of pack harness are supplied with straps by which +the pack is secured and loops through which to slip the arms, the pack +being carried from the shoulders instead of the head. With this sort +of a pack, as with the tump line, care should be given to the proper +adjustment, with the bottom of the pack no lower than the hips. Fifty +pounds is about as heavy a load as one can comfortably carry from the +shoulders. + +Outfitters sometimes attach a headpiece to their pack harness--that +is to say the harness is provided with both shoulder loops and tump +line head strap. The object is to secure a division of weight between +shoulders and head. This is a method employed by Eskimos when hunting +without dogs. The Eskimo hunter binds his pack with sealskin thongs, +and manipulates a single thong in such a manner as not only to secure +the pack but to form arm loops and headpiece as well. + +No matter what type of shoulder harness is employed, a breast strap +must be used to fasten together the arm loops in front or the loops +will have a continual tendency to slip backward and off the shoulders. +This breast strap fastens the packer so securely to his pack that +should he slip, as is sometimes likely, the pack will carry him down +with it and the probability of injury is multiplied many times. This +alone is a very decided objection to all forms of pack harness. + +If one slips with a tump line, on the contrary, a slight twist of the +head will disengage and free one from the pack; and if one is hunting +the tump pack may readily be dropped at a moment's notice, should game +be sighted. + +Let me therefore urge the adoption of the tump line for all portage +work where fifty pounds or more must be transported. No experienced +packer will use harness. Harness packing is indeed indicative of the +tenderfoot who has never learned how, unless on long cross country +tramps with light loads. + +But on a canoe trip, if one would make progress, big loads must be +resorted to. For instance, if the canoeist has a two mile portage to +negotiate and one hundred pounds of duffle he has but two miles to walk +if he carries all his duffle at once, but if he makes two loads of it +he must walk six miles. With the hundred pound load the portage may +easily be covered in one hour. With fifty pound loads three hours will +be consumed, for there will be time lost in making up the second pack. + +Axes, guns and extra paddles may be thrust under the thongs of the tump +line, or carried in the hand. Never portage a rifle with a cartridge +in the chamber, and never portage a loaded shotgun. To disregard this +advice will be to take an unnecessary and foolhardy risk. + +Save in a rather stiff breeze, one man can carry a canoe weighing less +than one hundred pounds nearly as easily as two can carry it. There is +one best way of doing everything, and the best and most practical way +to carry a canoe is the Indian's way. + +Tie one end of a stout string or thong securely to the middle thwart +close to the gunwale, and the other end to the same thwart close to +the opposite gunwale with the string stretched taut from end to end +of the thwart and on top of it. Slip the blades of two paddles, lying +side by side, under the string, the paddle handles lying on the forward +thwart. With the handles as close together as they will lie, bind them +with a piece of rope or thong to the center of the forward thwart. + +Spread the blades upon the middle thwart sufficiently wide apart to +admit your head between them. Take a position on the left side of the +canoe facing the stern. Just forward of the middle thwart grasp the +gunwale on the opposite or right side of the canoe in your left hand +and the gunwale on the near or left side in your right hand, and, +lifting the canoe over your head, let the flat side of the paddles +directly forward of the middle thwart rest upon the shoulders, your +head between them. It will be found that though you faced the stern in +lifting the canoe you are now facing the bow, and with the bow slightly +elevated the canoe can be carried with ease and a view of the trail +ahead will not be shut out. + +Should the flat paddle blades resting upon the shoulders be found +uncomfortable, as they doubtless will at the end of the first two +or three hundred yards, a Pontiac shirt or sweater will serve as a +protecting pad. + +Outfitters offer for sale yokes, pneumatic pads and contrivances of +various sorts as protections for the shoulders, but these contrivances +elevate the canoe from two to four inches above the shoulders and this +increases the difficulty of steadying it on rough trail. The sweater +or Pontiac shirt eases the cutting effect of the paddles just as well +as any of the special portaging pads, and the canoe can be handled more +easily with it. Besides it makes one less thing to look after. + +In a strong breeze it is often difficult for one man to handle a canoe, +for the wind striking it on the side will turn the portager around and +he will find it impossible to keep his course in spite of his best +efforts. If the portage is a short one--two or three hundred yards--the +canoe may be carried very well, one man with the bow the other with the +stern upon a shoulder, the canoe on its side with the bottom next the +portagers' heads, that they may easily grasp the gunwale in one hand +and steady the canoe with the other. + +This position will soon be found exceedingly tiresome, and on portages +exceeding two or three hundred yards the paddles should be arranged +with the blades on the after thwart and the handles lashed to the +center of the middle thwart. With this arrangement one man carries +exactly as when portaging the canoe alone, save that he stands under +the canoe just forward of the after thwart instead of the middle +thwart, while the other man carries the bow upon one shoulder. This is +the easiest method of two-man portaging of which I know. + +Many odds and ends may be tucked in the canoe on the portage--fishing +rods, for example, in cases, with one end stuck in the bow and the +other end tied to the forward thwart. + +Should a canvas canoe become punctured it may be repaired by one of the +following methods: + +If a stick of canoe cement is in the outfit, heat the cement with a +match and smear it over the puncture. + +Should the outfit contain a canoe repair kit, cut a patch of canvas +somewhat larger than the puncture, apply a coat of white lead to the +puncture and over a marginal space as large as the canvas patch, press +the patch firmly and evenly upon the white lead and tack it down with +copper tacks. To this apply calor, and when dry complete the repairs +with a coat of varnish. + +Should marine glue be used, lay a sheet of it over the puncture, heat +the bottom of a cup or some other smooth metal utensil and rub it over +the glue until the glue melts sufficiently to fill the puncture. + +In a region where spruce gum can be had, melt a quantity of gum in a +frying pan with sufficient grease to take from the gum its brittle +quality when cold. While hot pour the gum upon the rupture, letting it +run well into the opening and smearing it smoothly over the outside. + +"Peterborough" canoes are also easily repaired with marine glue or gum. + +In loading the canoe place the heavier bags in the bottom and middle +of the canoe, taking care so to distribute the weight that when fully +loaded the canoe will lie on an even keel. Keep the load always as low +down as possible. Every bag rising above the gunwales offers resistance +to the wind, and tends to make the load topheavy. When but one man +occupies a canoe, however, sufficient weight should be carried forward +to counterbalance his weight in the stern. + +Lash everything fast, particularly in rough water or when running +rapids. It does not pay to take chances. With a companion I was once +turned over in a rapid in an unexplored, sparsely timbered wilderness +several hundred miles from the nearest base of supplies--a Hudson's +Bay trading post. Nearly all our food was lost, as well as guns, axes, +cooking utensils and many other necessities of travel. The temperature +stood close to zero, snow covered the ground and during the greater +part of the three weeks occupied in reaching the post we had to dig +driftwood from under the snow, and our ingenuity was taxed at times to +the utmost in efforts to protect ourselves from the elements and travel +with any degree of comfort. Nothing worse than an unpleasant ducking in +icy waters would have resulted from our accident had we observed the +rule of ordinary caution and lashed our outfit to the thwarts. + +One end of a rope tied to the forward thwart, the other end threaded +through bag handles or pack lashings and secured to the after thwart, +will do the trick. A short strap, one end attached to a thwart, the +other end supplied with a snap to fasten on rifle or shotgun cases, is +a good way to secure the guns and still have them readily accessible. + +If you would make speed be smart in unloading the canoe and making up +your packs on the portage, and equally smart in reloading the canoe. +Delays in loading, unloading and making up packs are the chief causes +of slow progress. + +When it is found necessary to "track," give the rear end of the +tracking line a turn around the forward thwart, on the land side of +the canoe, then pass the end back and secure it to the middle thwart. +This distributes the strain between the thwarts. While one man at the +farther end of the line tows the canoe, the other man with a pole may +walk upon the bank, and keep the canoe clear of snags, if the water is +deep. Should the water be shallow it will usually be found necessary +for him to wade and guide the bow through open channels. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +TRAVEL WITH SADDLE AND PACK ANIMALS + + +Under this head we shall consider: (1) Saddles and pack equipment; (2) +Animals best adapted to pack work; (3) Outfit and provisions and how to +pack them; (4) How to throw some practical hitches; (5) Equipment of +the traveler who has no pack animal and whose saddle horse is required +to transport both rider and equipment. + +Comfort on the trail depends to a very large degree upon the animals of +the outfit. A mean horse is an abomination, and a horse may be mean in +many respects. A bucking horse, a horse that shies at stumps and other +objects or at every moving thing, or one that is frightened by sudden +and unexpected sounds is not only an uncomfortable but unsafe animal +to ride upon rugged mountain trails; and a horse that will not stand +without hitching, or one that is hard to catch when hobbled and turned +loose, will cause no end of trouble. + +In choosing a horse, then, avoid so far as possible one with these +tendencies, and also observe the manner in which he handles his feet. +He should not be subject to stumbling. He should be sure-footed, steady +and reliable, to qualify him for work on dangerous trails; this is of +the first importance. A horse that does not keep his eyes on the trail +and select his footing with care is wholly unsuited to mountain work. +He should be gunwise. A gunwise horse will not be easily frightened by +sudden and unexpected noises. + +Whether intended for mountain or plains work, the horse should be a +good camp animal--that is, one that will not wander far from camp. +It is more than aggravating to find upon arising in the morning that +your horse has disappeared and one always feels that time consumed +in searching for a roving horse is time worse than wasted. Of course +this tendency of an animal can be forestalled by picketing him, but a +picketed horse unless forage be particularly good will not do well, for +it rarely happens in these days of sheep-ravaged ranges that an animal +can find sufficient food to meet his requirements within the limited +length of a picket rope. + +Some horses need much persuasion before they can be induced to ford +streams, and I have had them lose their nerve and decline the descent +of precipitous trails. An animal possessing this trait of timidity +is not suited to trail work, for he is likely to cause trouble at a +critical moment. + +Some horses are good foragers, others are not. A poor forager will +become leg weary and break down much more quickly than the animal that +takes advantage of every opportunity to graze or browse. A horse just +in from the open range should be round and full-bellied. This is an +indication that he is a good feeder. Generally speaking the chunky +horse is the one best adapted to arduous trail work because he usually +possesses greater powers of endurance than the longer, lankier type. + +All of the qualifications above enumerated should be borne in mind in +selecting animals, whether for saddle or pack use. And of course the +animals should be as sound as possible. One should never start upon a +journey with an animal that is lame or has cinch sores or galled back. + +When mountain trails are to be negotiated a saddle horse weighing from +nine hundred to a thousand pounds will be found better adapted to the +work than a larger animal. Too large a horse is liable to be clumsy on +the trail, while too light a horse will of course tire under a heavy +rider. A small horse, as a rule, is better able to forage a living than +a large horse, and for this reason stands up better with a moderate +load on long, continuous journeys. Ponies weighing from eight hundred +to eight hundred and fifty pounds will pack one hundred and fifty +pounds easily, and ponies of this size make much better pack animals +than larger ones. + +While for general saddle work I prefer a horse, a mule is surer footed +and therefore preferable on precipitous, narrow mountain trails. In +the Sierra Madres of Mexico I rode a mule over trails where I would +scarcely have trusted a horse. Good saddle mules, however, are scarce. +I never saw a really good saddle-broke mule north of Mexico, though +they are doubtless to be had. Mules have greater powers of endurance +than horses, and for many other reasons are superior as pack animals. +The chief objection to a mule is his timidity upon marshy trails. His +feet are much smaller than those of a horse, he mires easily, and he +is fully aware of the fact. A good mule, nevertheless, is the one best +all-around pack animal. + +Burros are good where forage is scarce, but they are slow. When the +burro decides that he has done a day's work he stops, and that is the +end of it. He will not consult you, and he will not take your advice. +When he fully decides that he will go no farther you may as well unpack +and make camp with as good grace as you can muster, and keep your +temper. I believe that burros have a well-organized labor union and +they will not do one stroke of work beyond the limit prescribed by +their organization. But one must sometimes resort to them in desert +travel. They will pick their living and thrive on sage brush wastes +where other animals would die, and their ability to go long without +water is truly remarkable. On rough mountain trails they are even more +sure-footed if possible than mules, but like the mule it is difficult +to force them over marshes or into rivers when fording is necessary. + +In horse-raising localities in the West very good horses can be had +at anywhere from thirty to seventy-five dollars. The usual rate for +horse rental is one dollar to one dollar and a half a day, and it is +therefore cheaper, when the journey is to extend to a month or more, to +purchase the animals outright and sell them when you are finished with +them for what they will bring. Rented animals are generally animals +of low value and sometimes not very efficient, and in the course of +a month one pays in rental a good share of the value of the horse. +The risk is no greater, for if a rented horse is injured while in a +traveler's possession, the owner holds him who has rented the animal +responsible for the damage. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +SADDLE AND PACK EQUIPMENT + + +The riding saddle should be a double cinch, horn saddle, with +wool-lined skirts and of ample weight to hold its position. My own is +a regular stock saddle weighing thirty-five pounds, though for all +ordinary use a twenty-five- or thirty-pound saddle will do just as well. + +I prescribe the horn saddle because of its convenience. One may sling +upon it a camera, binoculars or other articles in frequent demand, +and when it becomes necessary to lead a pack pony the lead rope +may be attached to it. For this latter purpose the horn is indeed +indispensable. + +In the light of personal experience with both single and double cinch +saddles, I recommend the latter unhesitatingly, particularly for +mountain work. In steep ascents or descents it will not slide, while a +single cinch saddle is certain to do so no matter how tightly cinched, +and this shifting will sooner or later gall the horse's back. In +Mexico the single cinch saddle is almost universally used, but who ever +saw a Mexican's horse that was free from saddle sores? The forward +cinch should preferably be a hair cinch, though the ordinary webbed +sort, both forward and rear, does well enough. + +The saddle blanket should be a thick, good quality wool blanket. In +Arizona Navajo saddle blankets are popular, and they are undoubtedly +the best when obtainable. A hair saddle pad or corona, shaped to the +animal's back and used in connection with the blanket, is a pretty good +insurance against galling, and preferable to the felt pad, for it is +cooler. + +A leather boot for rifle, and saddle bags for toilet articles, note +books and odds and ends, bridle, halter rope, a pair of cowboy spurs +with large blunt rowels, and a quirt to tickle delinquent pack horses +will be needed. The rifle boot has two sling straps. The usual method +of carrying it is to insert it between the stirrup leathers on the +near side, drop the sling strap at the top of the boot over the saddle +pommel and buckle the sling strap at the bottom of the boot into the +rear latigo ring. By detaching the latter sling from the boot before +buckling it to the ring, the boot may be removed from or attached to +the saddle by simply lifting the forward sling strap over the pommel, +without unbuckling. In case the sling strap at the top of the boot be +placed too far down, it should be shifted higher up and secured to the +boot with a leather loop which may be riveted to the boot. + +[Illustration: METHOD OF SLINGING LOAD ON APAREJO + +(FIG. 1.) Rope is doubled and loop A thrown over horse's back to off +side. + +N. B.--In this and the following diagrams the pack is represented as +spread out flat and viewed from above.] + +For the pack animals the ordinary cross-tree or sawbuck pack saddle is +the most practical pack saddle for all-around use, though the aparejo, +used by the army and generally throughout Mexico, is superior to the +sawbuck when unwieldy packages of irregular size and shape are to be +transported. Such packages must frequently be transported by army +trains and they are the rule rather than the exception in Mexico, where +freighting throughout wide regions must be done wholly on the backs of +animals. + +[Illustration: (FIG. 2.) Packs are now lifted into place and off packer +brings loop A up around off side pack to top of load. Near packer +passes end B through loop A and ties ends B and C together with square +knot. Balance or "break" the packs and load is ready for hitch.] + +The aparejo is of Arabian origin, and the Spaniards, who adopted it +from the Moors, introduced it into Mexico. In Mexico there are two +types of the aparejo in common use. One made usually of the fiber of +_henequen_, which is woven into pockets which are stuffed with grass, +to form the pads, is used on donkeys in comparatively light packing; +in the other type the pad casing is made of Mexican tanned leather +instead of _henequen_ matting but also stuffed with grass. This is used +in heavier packing with mules, in transporting machinery and supplies +to mines and merchandise to inland settlements. + +The cross-tree or sawbuck, however, is used almost exclusively in +the United States by forest rangers, cowboys, prospectors and pack +travelers generally, and it is to this type of pack saddle that we +shall direct our attention chiefly. It may be interesting to note +that this is a very ancient type of pack saddle, of Asiatic origin. +It consists of two saddle boards connected near each end--front and +rear--by two cross-pieces, the pommel and cantle forming a miniature +sawbuck, while the saddle boards are similar in shape to the McClellan +saddle tree. This is fitted with breeching, quarter straps, breast +strap, latigos and cinch. As in the case of the riding saddle, the +sawbuck pack saddle should be supplied with the double cinch. Care +should be taken that the saddle fits the animal for which intended. A +saddle either too wide or too narrow will be certain to cause a sore +back. + +Each pack saddle should be accompanied by a heavy woolen saddle +blanket, which should be folded into three or four thicknesses, for +here even greater protection is necessary than with the riding saddle, +for the animal is to carry a dead weight. + +The preferable method of carrying supplies with the sawbuck pack saddle +is with kyacks, basket panniers or the _alforjas_, though with sling +and lash ropes any sort of a bundle may be slung upon it. + +When they can be obtained, kyacks of indestructible fiber stand first +for preference. These are usually from twenty-two to twenty-four inches +wide, seventeen or eighteen inches high and about nine inches deep, and +are fitted with heavy leather loops for slinging on the saddle. Unless +the horse is a large one, the narrower, or twenty-two inch, should be +selected. + +Basket panniers of similar size are lighter but not so well adapted to +hard usage, and are more expensive. + +The alforjas is constructed of heavy duck and leather, and of the same +dimensions as the kyack. They are much cheaper than either panniers or +kyacks, and are therefore more commonly used. Any outfitter can supply +them. They are slung upon the saddle in the same manner as kyacks. A +pair of the type decided upon will be required for each animal. + +The next requirement is a half-inch lash rope. This should be at least +thirty-three, but preferably forty feet in length. In some respects a +cotton rope is preferable to one of hemp, though the latter is more +commonly used, and regulations prescribe it for army pack trains. + +A good broad cinch should be provided, fitted with a ring on one end to +which is attached the lash or lair rope and a cinch hook on the other +end. + +There should be a pair of hobbles for each animal, and a blind to put +upon obstreperous pack animals when slinging and lashing the load. +These may be purchased throughout the West at almost any village store. +It is well also to carry a bell, which should always be strapped around +the neck of one of the horses when the animals are hobbled and turned +loose to graze. + +It will sometimes be necessary to picket one of the animals, and for +this purpose fifty or sixty feet of half or five-eighth inch rope will +be required. Also sufficient leading rope should be provided for each +pack animal, and a halter rope for the saddle horse. A lariat carried +upon the saddle pommel will be found useful in a dozen ways, and may be +utilized for picketing horses. + +All horses should be "slick" shod; that is, shod with uncalked shoes. +The shoes should be of soft iron, not so light as to render them liable +to bend before they are worn out, and they should not extend beyond the +hoof at side or rear. Some extra shoes of proper size for each animal, +a horseshoer's nippers, rasp, hammer and some nails should be included +in the equipment. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +PERSONAL OUTFIT FOR THE SADDLE + + +The outfit recommended in Chapters III and IV in discussing camp and +personal equipment for canoe trips is, with the modifications and +additions which we shall now consider, equally well adapted to saddle +and pack horse travel. As previously stated, our object is to describe +methods of packing, rather than to formulate an infallible check list. +With this in view an efficient outfit that may be easily packed and +transported is outlined, in a general way, and therefore such articles +of outfit mentioned in previous chapters as are obviously useful only +in canoe travel will not be referred to in this connection. + +The wedge, the Hudson Bay, the forest ranger and the lean-to tent are +all good models for pack animal travel, and easily erected. Whichever +type is chosen, if made of any one of the light-weight materials +described, will be found both satisfactory and easily packed. For +example, a forest ranger's tent eight feet deep and eight feet wide +weighs less than four pounds, while a lean-to with approximately the +same floor space weighs about three pounds. In the more arid regions of +the West one rarely finds it necessary to pitch a tent, though it is +handy to have one along and well worth carrying, particularly should it +be desired to remain more than one night at any point. + +During the summer, save in high altitudes, one pair of light woolen +blankets will be found ample bedding. For all probable conditions of +weather, however, in tent or in the open, the sleeping bag is the most +convenient and at the same time the most comfortable camp bed yet +devised, and it is so easily carried on the pack horse that I advise +its adoption. One made of close-woven waterproofed canvas is the most +thoroughly practical bag for general use. This should be lined with +two pairs of light blankets, that four thicknesses of blanket may +be available for covering. The blankets should be so arranged that +they may be taken out and the bag turned for airing. One may adapt +such a bag to the temperature, using as many or as few thicknesses of +blanket as desired, depending upon the number with which the bag is +lined. I recently saw a bag lined with four thicknesses of llama wool +duffel (providing two thicknesses for cover) that weighed but eight +pounds and furnished ample protection for any weather down to a zero +temperature. + +Pack cloths or light tarpaulins 6 × 7 feet, used to cover and protect +the packs, will be needed for each pack animal, and at night the bed +may be spread upon them. Saddle bags make excellent pillows. + +In traveling in an arid region canteens are a necessity. There should +be one large one for each traveler to be carried on the pack horse, and +a small one swung upon the saddle horn will be found convenient for +ready use. + +A folding water bucket of waterproofed canvas should also be included +in the outfit. + +The aluminum reflecting baker which has been described is far +preferable to the Dutch oven--a heavy iron kettle with iron cover--not +only because it weighs far less and is much more easily packed, but +because it is more practical. Westerners are wedded to the Dutch oven, +and this reference is merely made as a suggestion in case the question +of choice between the two should arise. + +If kyacks or alforjas are used the large water-proofed canvas duffle +bags and food bags will not be required. The smaller balloon silk +or musline food bags, however, will be found fully as convenient in +packing in the pack horse kyack as in the canvas bags on the canoe +trip. + +Each rider should be provided with either a saddle slicker or a poncho, +which when not in use may be rolled and secured to the saddle directly +behind the seat by means of tie strings attached to the saddle. A +poncho is preferable to a slicker, because of the many uses to which it +may be put. + +On saddle journeys in cold, windy weather a wind-proof canvas coat +or a large, roomy buckskin shirt is a comfort. If a buckskin shirt +is adapted, have it made plain without fringe or frill. Wilderness +dwellers formerly fringed their buckskin shirts, not alone for +ornament, but to facilitate the drying of the garment when wet. In +the fringed shirt water, instead of settling around the bottom of the +shirt, around the yoke and the seams of the sleeve, will drain to the +fringe which the wind quickly dries. In our case, however, the poncho +will protect the shirt from a wetting. + +In summer, in an arid or desert region of the Southwest, athletic +summer underwear will be found entirely satisfactory. Whether this or +light wool is to be worn, however, will depend entirely upon the season +and the region to be visited. + +In very warm weather a close-woven, good quality khaki outer shirt is +both comfortable and practical; but on chilly autumn days a flannel +shirt should take its place--gray, brown, blue--the color does not +matter so long as it does not crock. It is my custom to have one khaki +and one flannel shirt in my outfit. + +Trousers should be of heavy khaki, medium weight moleskin, or other +strong close-woven material. Full-length trousers, with reinforced +seat, are preferable in some respects to riding breeches, and may be +worn with the regulation United States cavalry puttee leggings with +shoes. + +Some riders prefer top boots, such as Arizona cowboys wear, and but +for their high heels which make walking uncomfortable they would +be admirable. High-laced, medium-weight mountaineering shoes will +eliminate the necessity of puttees, and many prefer them to low-laced +shoes and puttees. In snowy, cold weather I have found heavy German +socks and ordinary shoes, large enough to avoid the possibility of +pinching the feet, admirable footwear for the saddle. But whatever +is decided upon, extra trousers, extra leggings and extra shoes are +superfluous. One pair of each--the pair worn--is sufficient. + +The hat should be of the Western style, with broad brim, and of the +best grade. The brims of the cheaper ones are sure to sag after a +little wear and exposure to a shower or two. A good reliable hat may +be had for five dollars that will stand several years of hard wear and +may be renovated when soiled, assuming again the freshness of a new +hat. I have one for which I paid fourteen pesos in Monterey, Mexico, in +1907. I have worn It pretty steadily since in camp and on the trail. It +has been twice renovated, and to-day so nearly resembles a new hat that +I am not ashamed to wear it about town. + +Heavy gauntlet buckskin gloves are a necessary protection, not +only against cold in frosty weather, but against brush in summer. +The regulation United States cavalry glove is the best that I have +discovered for all-around hard usage, and will not harden after a +wetting. + +The saddle rifle should be short and light--not over twenty-four-inch +barrel, and not above seven pounds in weight. A revolver is never +needed, though for target practice one offers a means of amusement. + +Unless going into permanent camp or into an isolated region, it will +hardly be found necessary to start out with more than one week's +provisions. Before these are consumed settlements will be reached, +where fresh supplies may be purchased. It is well to have along a few +cans of baked beans and corned or roast beef, that a hasty meal may +be prepared when time does not allow a sufficient halt to permit the +preparation of uncooked foods. Two or three dozen lemons should also be +provided, particularly in summer, and in more or less arid regions. + +Provisions and general outfit should be neatly packed in small bags, +and evenly distributed in the kyacks. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +ADJUSTING THE PACK + + +In saddling up, be sure that the saddle blanket is folded large enough +to protect the horse's sides from the pack, when the pack is slung into +place. Otherwise the kyacks or alforjas will be liable with constant +chafing when the horse is in motion to cause sores. Not only where the +saddle rests upon the blanket but where the pack rests upon the horse's +sides there should be sufficient thicknesses of blanket to overcome +friction, and this demands a greater thickness than under the riding +saddle, for the pack load is a dead load. After the pack saddle is +thrown into place, and before cinching it, ease the blanket by pulling +it up slightly under the center of the saddle--along the backbone of +the animal. This will overcome the tendency of the blanket to draw down +and bind the horse's back too tightly when the saddle is cinched and +the pack in place. + +When packing the kyacks or alforjas particular care should be taken to +have the pair for each horse evenly balanced as to weight. If the load +swung on one side of the horse is heavier than that on the opposite +side, there will be a continual drawing down of the pack saddle on +the heavier side, resulting almost certainly in injury to the animal. +Inattention or willful carelessness on the part of packers in balancing +the pack is five times out of six the cause which leads to sore-backed +pack animals. + +If two or more pack animals are used, let such provisions and utensils +as are in constant use and will be needed at once by the cook, be +packed on one animal. Hobbles and bell should also be carried on this +animal. This will be the first animal unpacked, and while the other +animals are being unpacked the cook may get busy, and the packer will +have hobbles and bell at hand to immediately attach to the animals. + +Attached to each end of the kyacks and alforjas is a leathern loop or +sling strap. By means of these loops kyacks and alforjas are hung to +the saddle, one loop fitting over the forward, the other over the rear +cruz, or fork. The kyacks should be so adjusted as to hang evenly one +with the other. That is to say, one kyack should hang no lower upon the +animal's side than the other, and both should hang as high as possible. + +The kyacks in place, hobbles, bell, and such odds and ends as it may +not be convenient to pack in the kyack, may be laid on the center +between the crosstrees and on top of the kyack, and over all smoothly +folded blankets, sleeping bags, or tent, care being exercised to keep +the pack as low and smooth as possible. Everything carefully placed and +adjusted, cover the pack with the pack cloth or tarpaulin, folded to +proper size to protect the whole pack, but with no loose ends extending +beyond it to catch upon brush or other obstructions. If inconvenient to +include within the pack, the cooking outfit in its canvas case may be +lashed to the top of pack after the final hitch has been tied. All is +ready now for the hitch that is to bind the pack into place. + +Frequently the traveler is not provided with either kyacks or alforjas, +and it becomes necessary to pack the load without the convenience of +these receptacles. Before considering the hitches, therefore, let us +describe methods of slinging the load in such cases upon the crosstree +saddle. + +The load which is to be slung from the crosstree should be arranged in +two compact packages of equal weight, one for each side of the animal. +Boxes may be used, but large, strong sacks are preferable. The large +canvas duffle bags, described in the chapter on canoe outfitting, are +well adapted to the purpose. + +[Illustration: SLING FOR PACKING ON CROSSTREE SADDLE + +A is forward cruz, B rear cruz of saddle. CC are loops which support +packages. D and E are ends or hauling parts of rope.] + +Take the sling rope, and, standing on the near side, throw one end over +the horse's neck just forward of the saddle. Now at about the middle of +the rope form two half hitches, or a clove hitch, on the forward cruz +or fork of the saddle. + +With the free end of the rope on the near side form a half hitch on the +rear cruz, allowing sufficient loop between the forward and rear cruz +to receive the side pack, with the free end of the rope falling under +the loop. Now go to the off side and arrange the rope on that side in +similar manner. + +Lift the offside pack into position with its forward end even with the +forward fork, lifting the pack well up to the forks. Hold the pack in +position with the palm of the right hand against the center of the +pack, and with the left hand pass the loop along the lower side of the +pack, drawing in the slack with the free end of the rope, which passes +around the rear fork and under the center of the pack. With the pack +drawn snugly in position, take a turn with the free end of the rope +around the rope along the side of the pack. This will hold the pack in +position. Tie a bowline knot in the end of rope, and at proper length +for the bowline loop to reach the center and top of pack. Place loop +where it may be easily reached from the near side. + +Now pass to the near side and sling the near pack in exactly similar +manner, save that no bowline knot is to be formed. Reach up and slip +the end of the near rope, which you are holding, through the bowline +loop, draw tight and tie. + +The following is another method of slinging packs, frequently used by +forest rangers: + +Throw the rope across the horse directly in front of the saddle, and +as in the previous method form two half hitches with the rope at its +middle on the front fork, but in this case permitting the ends to lie +on the ground on either side the horse. Place the near pack in position +and against the lower rope, and holding it with one hand, bring the +rope up and over the pack with the other hand and throw a half hitch +around the forward fork, keeping the free end of the rope under. Draw +the rope taut, lifting the pack well up. Pass the running rope back and +throw a half hitch around the rear fork, the loose or running end of +the rope on the under side, as when forming the half hitch on the front +fork. Now pass the running rope from under over the pack at the rear, +throw a half hitch over the rear fork, take up all slack, bring the +loose end under and around the two ropes at their intersection between +pack and rear fork, and tie securely. The pack on off side is slung in +similar manner. + +Most mules, and not infrequently horses as well, have a constitutional +dislike to receiving the pack. If your pack animal displays any such +tendency adjust the blind over his eyes and let it remain there until +the hitch is thrown and the load tightened and secured. The blind is +usually an effective quieter. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES + + +Whether the load is made up with kyacks, alforjas, or separate packs +slung to the crosstree saddle as described in the preceding chapter it +must be secured in place. For this purpose various hitches are employed +by packers, each hitch well adapted to the particular conditions which +evolved it. + +Our description will be confined to the following six hitches, which +furnish ample variety to suit the exigencies of ordinary circumstances: + +(1) The crosstree or squaw hitch, which is the father of all hitches +because from it the diamond, the double diamond and all pack-train +hitches in present-day use were evolved. + +(2) A diamond hitch, adapted to the crosstree pack saddle. This is a +form of single diamond. + +(3) The United States army diamond particularly adapted for use with +the aparejo. The true double diamond is a hitch rarely called for save +in army work or freighting pack trains, and will therefore be omitted. +There are several so-called double diamonds that might be described, +but these near-double diamonds possess little or no advantage over +the single diamond, and we shall pass them over as they are scarcely +resorted to in ordinary pack work. + +(4) The one-man or lifting hitch. + +(5) The stirrup hitch, to be used when the packer has rope but no cinch. + +(6) The saddle hitch, employed in slinging loads upon an ordinary +riding saddle. + +(7) The hitch for packing a sick or injured man. + + +THE CROSSTREE HITCH + +This hitch was introduced into the Northwest by the early fur traders +and adopted by the Indians. Among Indians, women are the laborers, and +the crosstree hitch being the hitch almost exclusively employed by the +squaws was presently dubbed by white men the "squaw hitch." It is a +hitch very generally used by prospectors, and for this reason is known +in some localities as the "prospector's hitch." In other sections of +the West, where sheep herders commonly use it, it is locally called the +"sheep herder's hitch." It is a hitch easily thrown by one man, holds +well, and is therefore a favorite. + +[Illustration: SQUAW OR CROSSTREE HITCH + +(FIG. 1.) Rope engaged on cinch hook and bight of rope running from +rear forward under standing rope.] + +[Illustration: (FIG. 2.) Loop of bight enlarged, reversed and passed +around bottom and lower corners of off side pack.] + +[Illustration: (FIG. 3.) Hitch formed and ready to tighten. 1. Standing +rope. 2. Running rope. 3. Rear rope--off side. 4. Front rope--off side. +5. Front rope--near side. 6. Rear rope--near side. 7. Marker.] + +With lash rope attached to cinch, take a position on the near side of +the animal facing the pack. Throw the cinch over the top and center of +pack in such manner as to be easily reached under the horse's belly. +Pick up cinch and engage the rope from in out upon the hook. Draw up +slack, taking care that the cinch rests properly upon the horse's +belly. Grasp the running and standing rope in left hand above the hook, +to hold slack, and with the right hand double the running rope and +thrust the doubled portion under the standing rope from rear forward +in a bight, at top of pack. Enlarge the loop of the bight by drawing +through enough slack rope to make the loop of sufficient size to be +passed over and around the off side kyack or pack. Step to off side, +turn loop over, and engage it around the ends and bottom of kyack, from +front to rear. Return to near side, and pass the loose end of running +rope around the forward end, bottom and finally rear end of kyack. +Draw the rope end, from above down, over and under the standing rear +and running ropes, at the top and center of the load, and the hitch is +ready to tighten. + +To tighten the hitch, grasp the running rope a little above the cinch +hook, and pull with all your strength, taking up every inch of slack +possible. Retain this slack by holding the standing and running rope +together with left hand, while with the right hand you reach to top of +load and pull up slack where running rope passes under standing rope. +Go to off side and draw in all slack, following the rope around off +side pack. Retaining slack, return to near side, and still following +rope and taking up slack around front to rear of near side pack, grasp +end of rope, already engaged as directed over and under standing rear +and running rope, pull hard, bracing a foot against pack, and tie. Two +men, one on each side of the horse, can, of course, throw the hitch and +tighten the load much more quickly than one. Tightening the load is +just as important a feature of packing as evenly balancing the packs. +The result of an improperly tightened load will pretty certainly be a +sore-backed horse. + + +THE CROSSTREE DIAMOND HITCH + +[Illustration: (FIG. 1.) A turn is here taken around standing rope with +loop of bight of running rope thrust under standing rope from rear to +front, as in Fig. 1, illustrating Squaw Hitch.] + +Take position on the near side of horse, as when forming the crosstree +hitch, and throw cinch over horse, engaging it on hook and adjusting +it in exactly similar manner. Take in slack and retain it by grasping +the standing and running ropes in left hand. Double running rope and +thrust doubled portion under standing rope in a bight, from rear +forward at top and center of load. Take up all slack. Enlarge loop +of bight by drawing through enough running rope to form a diamond of +sufficient size to hold top of load. Now bring center of loop over and +under standing rope, from rear forward, thus giving rope at each side +of loop a complete turn around standing rope. Throw the disengaged +portion of running rope to off side of horse, and passing to the off +side, bringing the rope down along rear, bottom, and up front of kyack, +thrust loose rope end up through loop at top of pack. Take in slack and +return to near side of horse. Engage running rope around front, bottom +and rear end of near side kyack or pack, and thrust rope end over and +under standing rope opposite center of loop. Take up slack and load in +ready to tighten. + +[Illustration: CROSSTREE DIAMOND HITCH + +(FIG. 2.) Hitch formed ready to tighten.] + +Tighten load by grasping running rope above hook and drawing as tight +as possible. Hold slack with left hand, gripping running and standing +rope, and take up slack at loop with right hand. Pass to off side and +take up slack and tighten rear to front around kyack. Pass to near +side, tightening front to rear; finally, bracing a foot against the +load pull on loose end, and retaining all slack make final tie. + +The above described "diamond" hitch is not the true diamond employed by +government pack trains where the aparejo is used, but it is a diamond +evolved from the crosstree hitch, and is particularly well adapted to +the crosstree or sawbuck pack saddle, is easily formed, and holds the +load securely, which is the ultimate object of all hitches. + + +THE UNITED STATES ARMY DIAMOND HITCH + +The single diamond hitch employed by army packers is the ideal hitch +for securing a load upon an aparejo. This is a two-man hitch, though an +expert can throw it alone. + +One packer takes his position on the off side of the animal, while the +other with the coiled lash rope, cinch attached, remains on the near +side. + +The near packer, retaining the cinch, throws the coiled rope over the +horse's haunch, to rear. The off packer picks up end of rope, and +receiving the hook end of cinch, passed to him under horse's belly by +near packer, holds it together with end of rope in his left hand, and +stands erect. + +[Illustration: UNITED STATES ARMY DIAMOND HITCH + +Figures represent successive stages in formation. Near side towards +right in each case. Line PP in Fig. 1 represents horse's back. AA (Fig. +3) standing part of rope, and A´ (Fig. 2) the running rope. + +FIG. 1.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 2.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 3.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 4.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 5.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 6.] + +The near packer, taking a position at the horse's neck, grasps the rope +about six feet from cinch, and with an upward and backward motion, +drops it between the two packs, one slung on either side of the +aparejo. + +Still grasping the rope in his right hand just forward of the packs at +the top, he pulls forward between the packs sufficient running rope to +permit him to bring his hand down to his side. Retaining the rope in +his right hand he now reaches up with his left hand, and with back of +hand up and thumb under grasps running rope and draws sufficient rope +forward to permit the left hand grasping the rope to come down to his +side, arm's length. + +With the right elbow crooked the right hand, still holding the rope, +is brought up about on a level with the chin, and the left hand, also +retaining its hold on the rope, thumb down, is raised to hollow of the +right arm, with loop of rope between the hands lying outside the right +arm. Now by a single swinging motion with both hands the rope in the +right hand, called the "standing rope," is thrown over the center of +pack to the off packer who stands ready to receive it; and the rope +held in the left hand, called the "running rope," over the horse's +neck, forward of the pack. + +The off packer, still standing with cinch hook and end of rope in left +hand, with his right hand grasps the standing rope as it comes over +as high up as he can conveniently reach, draws it down, and holding +the cinch hook in proper position below the aparejo draws down the +standing rope and engages it upon the hook from in out. + +The near packer now draws forward between the packs about six feet +more rope, which he throws to the rear of the near side pack. This +rope is now called the "rear" rope. He next grasps the running rope at +the horse's neck, and with the off packer's assistance releases that +portion of the running rope lying between the packs forward of the +standing rope, and brings it to the center of pack on near side, next +to and just back of the standing rope. + +He now slips his right hand down the rope to a point half way between +pack and aparejo boot, and with the left hand reaches from forward +between standing rope and aparejo and grasps the rope just above the +right hand. Both hands are now slipped down the rope, and with the same +motion drawn apart, one on each side of standing rope (under which the +rope being manipulated passes) to the cinches. With the hands about +ten inches apart, the section of rope between them, which is held in a +horizontal position, is jammed down between the two cinches under the +aparejo. + +The off packer, holding the running rope with his right hand above the +hook, places the left hand holding end of rope on top of running rope +between his right hand and the hook, and with thumb under running rope +grasps both ropes and slips his hands up on running rope, bringing it +to center of load. + +He now draws the end of the rope, held by left hand, forward until a +foot or so falls upon the near side of the horse's neck. The hitch is +now formed, ready to tighten. + +To tighten, the near packer with his left palm passing the side and +center of the pack grasps the running rope at the rear of the standing +rope, at the same time bringing the running rope between the thumb and +index finger of the left hand, which he is using as a brace. In this +position he is prepared to hold slack as it is given him by the off +packer. + +The off packer grasps the running rope close down to the hook, and, +bracing himself with a knee against the aparejo boot, pulls with all +his might, taking two or more pulls, if necessary, and giving slack to +near packer, until no more slack can be taken on standing rope. He now +steps smartly to rear and throws the top rope forward of the pack. The +top rope is the rope leading up from the rear corner of the aparejo +boot on near side to the side and center of off side pack. After it +is thrown forward it is called the "front" rope. He now prepares to +receive slack from near packer by grasping the rear rope where it lies +between the packs. + +The near packer, who has been receiving the slack given him by the off +packer, carries his right hand, with which he holds the slack at rear +of standing rope, to lower side of pack toward the aparejo, and reaches +under standing rope, with left hand grasps rope above right hand, +drawing it forward under standing rope, and employing both hands jams +it upward in a bight between standing rope and pack. Care should be +taken during this operation to retain all slack. + +The near packer now engages around front boot of aparejo the free +portion of the running rope below the bight just formed. Holding slack +with left hand, he grasps the rope to rear of cinch in right hand; +receiving slack from left hand he brings rope to rear of aparejo boot, +and with both hands carries rope smartly to upper corner of side pack, +always retaining slack. The off packer receives slack, pulling it in +quickly hand over hand, the near packer retaining his hold until the +off packer has the rope taut. The near packer now takes a position +at the forward end of load, facing the rear, and grasps end of rope +prepared to take slack from off packer. + +The off packer, after receiving slack from near packer as described +takes a turn of the rope around each hand, holding every inch of +slack, steps to the rear, keeping in line with the horse's body, +and then facing forward throws his full weight back upon the rope. +Retaining the slack with his left hand, with his right hand he brings +the free portion of running rope under and around the aparejo boot, +from rear to front, passes forward of rope, and facing the rear and +grasping rope, right hand above the left, brings it smartly to upper +corner of pack. + +The near packer, holding end of rope, immediately draws in slack until +he has about six feet of free rope, which he throws over center of load +to off side, and then drawing in all remaining slack takes a turn of +rope around each hand and throws his weight upon it, and the off packer +releases his hold. + +Holding the slack with the left hand, the near packer releases his +right hand and with it engages the free or running portion of rope +under and around the aparejo boot to rear of load, while the off packer +steps to rear of load, takes end of rope, and while he draws in all +slack, neatly coils rope, holding coil in right hand at lower side +of pack, and, with palm of left hand braced against center of load, +receives slack from near packer. + +Grasping in his left hand the taut rope above the coils, and lifting +it sufficiently above the load to admit the coiled rope under it, he +swings the coils with his right hand from rear to front to top of load +and brings the standing rope held in his left hand down on top of the +coils to hold them. He now takes a loop of the rope, forces it between +standing rope and pack, in a bight, and takes a turn of the loop around +standing and running rope to secure it, first joining the loop well up, +and the hitch is tightened. + + +THE ONE-MAN OR LIFTING HITCH + +This is a pretty good hitch sometimes where kyacks are not used and an +irregular pack is swung upon the crosstree. While it holds the pack +very securely to the animal's back, its tendency is to lift the corners +that might cause friction upon the horse's sides. + +Standing on the near side of the horse, throw cinch over the horse's +back, pick up cinch and engage rope upon cinch hook, from in out, as in +previous hitches. Take up slack, bring running rope up side of pack, +double and thrust loop or bight under standing rope from rear forward +at top of pack, to hold slack. Throw all loose rope to off side, and +pass around to off side yourself. + +[Illustration: (FIG. 1.) + + A--Cinch D--Running rope + C--Standing rope E--Front rope + B--Cinch hook F--Marker] + +[Illustration: LIFTING HITCH + +(FIG. 2.) Grasp loop A in left hand and with right jam rope C C along +and under rope B (where latter passes beneath corner of pack) to D, as +shown in Fig. 3.] + +[Illustration: (FIG. 3.) Off side of hitch completed.] + +[Illustration: LIFTING HITCH + +(FIG. 4.) Hitch formed ready to tighten.] + +Draw loose end of running rope forward and from under standing rope +at top of pack. The effect of operations thus far is this: The running +rope passes up the near side, from hook and to top of load and passes +under standing rope, which will serve effectually in final tightening +of cinch to hold slack. + +Pass end of running rope over and under the forward end of off pack and +backward under standing rope and pack. Now bring the rope forward over +side of pack, double, and thrust the doubled portion over and under +forward rope in a bight. With left hand grasp double of rope at bight +just to rear of forward rope where it passes over and under forward +rope, and with right hand slip running rope down and just to rear of +standing rope. Take up slack. By pulling hard upon loose end of running +rope the ends of pack will be lifted slightly. + +Throw loose end over horse to near side, and across middle of load. +Pass to near side and manipulate rope as on off side. Tighten load. +Secure the hitch by bringing loose end of rope over and under forward +running and standing ropes, and tie. + + +STIRRUP HITCH + +This hitch is useful where the packer has lash rope but no cinch, and +may be employed on sawbuck saddle, aparejo, or where the load is hung +upon an ordinary riding saddle. It is a two-man hitch, though one man +may manipulate it. + +[Illustration: (FIG. 1.) Rope is thrown across load with equal portion +falling on each side. Loop A is formed on top of load, and the ends BB +are passed through it to form large loops C and D.] + +[Illustration: STIRRUP HITCH + +(FIG. 2.) Loops C and D are passed under horse's belly and seized by +packers on opposite sides. Each packer then draws end of rope which he +is holding through loop which has been passed to him. Off packer forms +bowline knot, E, and near packer passes his end of rope through this. +Hitch is now ready to tighten.] + +Pass the rope over the load, with an equal division of rope on either +side. Form a loop at center and top of load. Each packer will now place +a foot upon the rope, where it falls from loop to ground, and pass his +end of rope through loop from above down and draw through slack rope. +This forms a loop on either side in which the foot rests. Each packer +will now bring forward and under the horse's belly the loop in which +his foot rests, passing the loop to the other packer at the same time +disengaging his foot, and will pass the loose end of rope which he +holds through the loop which he receives. The ropes on top of pack +will now be spread to properly cover and secure the pack, and all slack +taken. + +The off side packer now forms a bowline knot in the loose end of his +rope, the near side packer passes his loose end through the bowline +loop. To tighten the load the off side packer gives slack, while the +near side packer braces and draws in on loose end of rope, tying at +bowline loop to secure load. + + +THE SADDLE HITCH + +[Illustration: SADDLE HITCH + +With rope arranged as shown throw deer across saddle, enlarge loops +A and B around haunches and neck. Bring ends C and D together, form +bowline knot on end D, pass end C through it and tighten.] + +This is a particularly useful hitch when it becomes necessary to sling +a deer to a riding saddle for transportation to camp. + +Throw the lash rope across the saddle seat, an equal division of rope +falling to either side. Double the rope where it crosses the cinch ring +and thrust it through the cinch ring in a loop, drawing through enough +loose rope to form a good-sized loop. This should be done on both +sides. Lay the deer across saddle, with head hanging on one side and +haunches on the other side, slip loop on one side over the deer's head, +and the loop on the other side over its haunches. Take in all slack. +Form a bowline loop on end of off side rope, and lay it on top of load. +This loop should be so adjusted as to reach the middle of the top of +load. Passing to near side, thread loose end of near side rope through +the bowline loop. Tighten load by pulling on loose end, and tie. + + +HOW TO PACK A SICK OR INJURED MAN + +Sometimes it occurs that a member of a party is so injured or becomes +so ill as to be helpless, and the problem of transporting him upon +horseback presents itself. This may be done in the following manner +upon a crosstree or sawbuck saddle: + +Cut two straight sticks three feet long and about three inches in +diameter. Fit one on either side of saddle snug against the forks. Lash +securely to forks forward and rear, with ends of sticks protruding an +equal distance forward of and back of forward and rear forks. It may be +well to cut shallow notches in the sticks where they rest against the +forks. This will preclude lateral motion. + +Cut two sticks two feet long and three inches in diameter. Place one +in front and one in rear at right angles to and across top of sticks +already in position. These cross-pieces are to be lashed to position +one about two inches from forward ends, the other two inches from +rear ends of lengthwise sticks. Before lashing them into position cut +notches to receive lash ropes at points of intersection, that any +tendency to slip or work loose may be overcome. + +Now cut two poles six feet long and three inches in diameter. Spread a +pack cloth upon the ground, and presuming the pack cloth is six feet +wide, place a pole on each outer end of it. Roll poles, with pack +cloth, to center until there is a width of twenty inches between the +outer edges of poles. In this position lace cloth to each pole, or if +horseshoe or other nails are handy, nail it to poles. Should the cloth +be wider than length of poles, fold in a margin on each end, before +rolling. Place litter on cross-pieces, the flat of canvas on top. +Notch, and secure poles of stretcher at front and rear to cross-pieces. +Lash down litter by means of the stirrup hitch. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +TRAVELING WITHOUT A PACK HORSE + + +The man who travels without a pack horse, and carries his full +equipment and provision supply upon his saddle must, of necessity, +deny himself many things that under ordinary circumstances are deemed +essentials. He must indeed travel light, and unless he is well inured +to roughing it will be content to confine his activities to the warmer +and less inclement months. + +The food supply is the first consideration, but nowadays one is certain +to come every three or four days at the outside upon some point where +fresh supplies may be purchased. Therefore, twelve to fifteen pounds of +provisions, carefully selected from the ration already suggested, will +meet the utmost needs. In selecting the ration it is well to eliminate +all luxuries. It may also be said that canned goods are too heavy, +where one is to pack more than a two-days' supply, and bacon should be +made the basis of the meat diet. But then we are considering methods +of packing and carrying, rather than check lists. Limiting the quantity +to fifteen pounds for a five-days' trip--and this is ample with +judicious selection--the individual will be left to decide his ration +for himself. + +Saddle bags will be found indispensable and in them will be ample +room to carry the limited toilet articles required, a hand towel, one +change of light woolen or summer underwear, matches, tobacco and rifle +cartridges. The best shelter is a lean-to tent, made of extra light +cloth. This should be about seven feet long, four and one-half feet +high and four feet deep. Such a tent will weigh about three pounds. + +The cooking outfit will be limited to essentials. If it can be had an +aluminum army or "Preston" mess kit, either of which weighs about two +pounds, a sheath knife with broad blade, and a pint cup, will fill all +requirements. If the mess kit cannot be procured, a small frying pan +with folding handle, an aluminum or enamel plate and a dessert spoon +with sheath knife, and a pint cup, will do nearly as well. In this +latter case coffee may be made in the cup. A small canteen, which may +be hung upon the saddle horn, should also be provided. + +A small belt axe that weighs about two pounds, with sheath, a lariat +and a few feet of rope will be required. + +A single blanket or a pair of light blankets not exceeding five pounds +in weight will constitute the only bedding that can be conveniently +carried. + +To pack the outfit spread tent flat upon the ground, turning the +triangular ends in to lie flat. Fold the tent once, end for end. +This will make a rectangular pack cloth three and one-half feet long +and about five and one-half feet wide. Fold your blanket to a size a +little smaller than tent and spread it flat upon the tent. Arrange your +provision packages on the blanket a foot or so from one end and with a +margin of a foot or more on either side. Fold the end of blanket and +tent up and over the packages and roll up blanket and tent together +with a band close to the knob in center to hold the packages in place +and prevent their working down toward ends of roll. + +The provisions should be thoroughly protected in bags, as previously +suggested, in order that they may not soil the blanket. + +Place the roll directly behind saddle seat with the bulge caused by the +provision bulk resting against saddle seat, the end of roll falling +on either side, and tie in position by means of leather tie strings +attached to saddle on each side. The tie should be made in both cases +just below the bulge in roll. + +The tent will protect blanket and provisions, and if judgment has been +used in the selection and arrangement of provisions the bulk should not +be unduly or inconveniently large. The cooking kit, if enclosed in a +canvas case with handle, may be lashed to roll by passing lash string +through the handle and over the top and around the kit. A strap above +the upper loop of the rifle boot and through the belt loop on the axe +scabbard will hold the axe and another buckled around the rifle boot +and lower end of handle will prevent a slapping motion of the handle. + +The poncho, neatly rolled, may be carried on the pommel, the center +of the roll pressed against the back of the horn, the ends drawn down +and forward of the pommel on either side and secured with the leathern +tie strings attached to the saddle. When not in use sweater or Pontiac +shirt may be carried with the poncho. + +The horse may be picketed with the lariat. Hobbles may be made as +cowboys make them from rope. A strand unraveled from half-inch rope +brought once around one leg, twisted rather tightly, the ends brought +around the other leg and secured in the twist between the legs, makes +a good hobble. Always fasten picket rope or hobble below the fetlock +just above the hoof--_never_ above the fetlock. + +The outfit here outlined will weigh, including rifle and a reasonable +amount of ammunition, from forty to forty-five pounds at the utmost, +and one may be very comfortable with it. If game and fish can be caught +and are to be depended upon, the provisions may be cut down to a little +flour, bacon, coffee and sugar, and the traveler may tarry in the +wilderness for a considerable time. + +One may leave out the tent, and in a warm climate even the blanket, +relying for shelter wholly upon the poncho. An experienced man will +often limit his cooking outfit to a cup and canteen. A good strong +reliable horse, a good saddle equipment, and enough plain food is all +one really needs who has experience in wilderness travel. Such a man +can make himself comfortable with exceedingly little. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +AFOOT IN SUMMER + + +On the portage one may carry a pretty heavy pack and think nothing of +it, for the end of the portage and the relaxation of the paddle is just +ahead. The portage is merely an incident of the canoe trip. + +The foot traveler, however, has no canoe to carry him and his outfit +five or ten miles for every mile he carries his outfit. He must carry +both himself and his outfit the entire distance traversed. This is +obvious, and it leads to the conclusion that the outfit must be +accordingly reduced both in weight and bulk. + +How heavy a load may be easily transported depends, of course, upon the +man, but it is safe to say that the inexperienced will find twenty-five +pounds a heavy enough burden, and within this limit must be included +shelter, bed, and one week's provisions; though ordinarily the tramper +will be able to renew his supply of provisions almost daily. + +Under all ordinary circumstances a single woolen blanket weighing not +to exceed three pounds will be found ample summer bedding. A lean-to +shelter tent seven feet long, four feet wide and four feet high of +one of the light tenting materials previously described, weighs less +than three pounds and furnishes ample and comfortable shelter. Blanket +and tent may be carried easily in a roll, the tent on the outside to +protect the blanket. + +To make the roll spread the tent upon the ground, fold the blanket +once, end for end, and spread it upon the tent, the sides of the +blanket (_not_ folded ends) toward the ends of the tent. Fold in ends +of tent over blanket and roll up. Double the roll and tie together a +little above the ends with a stout string. The roll, dropped over the +head with center resting upon one shoulder and the tied ends coming +together near the hip on the opposite side, may be carried with little +inconvenience. Blankets are usually seventy-two inches wide, therefore +the roll should be about six feet in length before it is doubled and +the ends tied. + +A belt axe will be carried, in a sheath, upon the belt, the remaining +equipment and provisions in a Nessmuk pack or a ruck sack. The Nessmuk +pack, sold by most outfitters, is about 12 × 20 × 5 inches in size +and made of waterproofed canvas. This will easily hold a nine-inch +frying pan with folding handle, an aluminum pan 7 × 3 inches with +folding handle, a pint cup (if you do not wish to carry the cup on your +belt), a spoon or two, a cooking knife, a dish cloth and a dish towel, +together with one week's provisions, matches, etc. There will still +be room for a small bag containing the few needed toilet articles and +hand towel, and another small bag containing one change of light-weight +woolen underwear and two pairs of socks. + +The cooking outfit indicated is limited, but quite ample. I have done +very well for weeks at a time with no other cooking utensils than a +pint cup and a sheath knife. But here we cannot go into woodcraft +or extreme concentration of rations and outfit. We are considering, +rather, comfortable or moderately comfortable outfits and how to pack +or transport them. + +Tent, blanket, axe, food and other equipment above suggested will, if +intelligently selected, not go beyond the twenty-five pound limit. The +greatest weight will be in the food, and each day will reduce this +about two pounds. If provisions can be purchased from day to day these, +of course, need not be carried, and the remaining load will be very +light indeed. + +I would suggest that a light sweater take the place of a coat as it +will be found more comfortable and useful and may be carried on top of +the pack or in the blanket roll, for it will rarely be worn save in the +evening camp. + +A broad-brimmed felt hat, an outer shirt of medium-weight flannel, +khaki trousers and strong but not too heavy shoes make a practical and +comfortable costume. Woolen socks protect the feet from chafing. Some +campers like long German stockings, which serve also for leggings, +and wear thin cotton socks inside them. In selecting shoes take into +consideration the kind of socks or stockings to be worn, and see that +the shoes are amply large though not too large, for shoes too large are +nearly as uncomfortable as shoes too small. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +WITH SNOWSHOES AND TOBOGGAN + + +In the mode of travel here to be considered the voyageur, equipped +with snowshoes, hauls his provisions and entire camping paraphernalia +upon a toboggan or flat sled. The toboggan (Indian ta´-bas-kan´) +had its origin in the prehistoric past among the Algonquin Indians +of northeastern America. It was designed by them for the purpose of +transporting goods over trackless, unbeaten snow wastes where sleds +with runners could not be used, and for this purpose it is unequaled. + +While for our purpose the conventionalized toboggan sold by outfitters +and designed for hill sliding and general sport will answer very +well, the wilderness model in use by Indians and trappers in our +northern wilderness is a better designed and preferable type for the +transportation of loads. + +Various lengths of toboggans are in use, each intended for the +particular purpose for which it was built. The longest Indian toboggan +I ever saw was twelve feet in length, but from six to eight feet is the +ordinary length, with a width of nine inches at the tip of the curved +nose, gradually increasing to fourteen inches wide where the curve ends +and the sliding surface or bottom begins, and tapering away to about +six inches wide at the heel. The conventionalized type averages from +four to six feet in length with a uniform width of about fifteen inches +from curve to heel. + +Some three or more crossbars, depending upon the length of the +toboggan, are lashed at intervals across the top, the forward one at +the beginning of the curve where the nose begins to turn upward, and on +either side of the toboggan from front to rear side bar, and fastened +to the side bars at their ends are side ropes. + +Beaver-tail, bear's-paw, or swallow-tail snowshoes, of Indian make, are +the shapes best adapted to the sort of travel we are considering. These +models are all broad and comparatively short. The web should be of good +caribou babiche, closely woven for use upon dry snow, and indeed for +all-around conditions. While on wet, soggy snow a coarse web may in +some respects be preferable it will not compare in efficiency with the +close web on loose snow, or for all-around work under all sorts of +conditions. Long, narrow snowshoes may be very good for racing where +the country is smooth, but they are not suited to a rough, wooded or +broken country or to hummocky snow. + +The best and most practical, as well as the simplest sling or binding +for the snowshoe is made as follows: Cut from an Indian tanned buckskin +a thong about half an inch wide and thirty inches in length. Thread +one end of this, from above down, through the web at one side of the +toe hole, and from the bottom up at the opposite side. Pull it through +until the two ends are even. Draw the thong up at the middle, where +it crosses the toe hole, to make a loop large enough to admit the toe +under it, but not large enough to permit the toe to slide forward +against the forward cross-bar. Wrap the two ends of the thong around +center of loop two or three times bringing them forward over the top +and drawing them under and back through the loop. Slip your toes under +the loop, bring the ends of the thong back, one on either side of the +foot, and tie snugly in the hollow above your heel. + +This sling will hold well, will not chafe the foot, and with it the +snowshoe may be kicked free from the foot or adjusted to the foot in an +instant. + +Should the thongs stretch in moist weather, the sling may be tightened +by simply taking an additional turn or two (without untying) around the +toe loop. + +I believe that lamp-wicking would answer as well as buckskin thongs, +though I have never used it because I have always carried an ample +supply of buckskin. + +The best underclothing for the winter trail is good weight--though not +the heaviest--woolen. Two suits should be carried besides the suit +worn. Underclothing should not fit the body too snugly. It is better +that it should be a size too large than an exact fit. + +The outer shirt should be of flannel, and of good quality, though not +too heavy. + +Hudson's Bay Company trappers wear good-weight moleskin trousers, +almost entirely to the exclusion of other fabrics, and I adopted them +several years ago as superior to any other. They are wind-proof and +warm and are particularly well adapted to the rough work of the trail. + +The ordinary coat is not at all adapted to the northern wilderness +in winter, for it will not protect against drifting snow and driving +blizzard. In its stead the Eskimo adickey should be worn. + +Any seamstress who can cut and make an ordinary work shirt can make an +adickey if your outfitter cannot supply it. This garment is slipped on +over the head like a shirt, and has a hood attached to draw over the +cap as a neck and head protection. The neck opening is large enough to +permit the head to pass through it without the necessity of a buttoned +opening in front, for no matter how closely buttoned a garment may be +drifting snow will find its way in. In length the adickey reaches half +way between hip and knees and is made circular at the bottom. The hood +should be of ample proportion to pull over the cap loosely, with a +drawstring encircling the front by which it may be drawn snugly to the +face. A fringe of muskrat or other fur around the face increases the +comfort, the fur acting as a protection against drifting snow. While +white Hudson's Bay Company kersey cloth is a favorite fabric for this +garment, it may be made of any woolen blanket duffle or similar cloth. + +Over the kersey adickey another adickey of some smooth-surfaced, strong +material, preferably moleskin, should be worn. This outside adickey +should of course be just enough larger than the kersey or blanket +adickey to fit over it easily. The adickeys may be worn singly or +together, according to the demands of the weather. + +A Pontiac shirt, to be worn under the adickeys in extremely cold +weather, should be included in the outfit. This will serve, too, in +camp, when the adickeys are laid aside. + +A round cap of fur or heavy cloth provided with flaps to turn down over +the ears makes the best head protection. The hoods of the two adickeys, +as before stated, should be large enough to draw over this. + +Very important indeed is the question of foot dress. Not only must we +aim to secure the greatest possible freedom and ease in walking, but +the ever-present danger of frostbite must also be guarded against. + +Socks should be of wool, of the home-knit variety, and besides the pair +worn, three or four extra pairs should be carried in the kit. + +Knit socks will not be sufficient protection, however, and where two +or three pairs are worn they are certain to bunch or wrinkle, with +chafed and sore feet as a result. All Hudson's Bay Company stores keep +in stock a white fuzzy woolen duffle of blanket thickness. If you are +making your start from a Post purchase some of this duffle and have +one of the women at the Post make you a pair of knee-length stockings +of the duffle to pull over your knit socks, and two pairs of slippers +of the same material, one just large enough to fit over the foot of +the long stockings, the other just a little larger to fit over all. +These should be made of proper size, to obviate wrinkles. The larger +outfitters carry in stock good wool duffle, and will make these to fit +properly. + +In crisp, cold weather, when the snow never softens or gets moist even +under the midday sun, buckskin moccasins should be the outer footwear. +Ordinary leather will freeze stiff, stop the proper circulation of +blood, and certainly lead to frosted feet. The moccasins should be +made with high tops, reaching above the ankles, with buckskin strings +to wrap around and secure them. Moccasins are light to pack, and it is +always well to carry a couple of extra pairs, to have on hand in case +of emergency. + +Leggings of moleskin (or some other strong, pliable cloth) large enough +to push the foot through protect the legs. These should be knee high, +with a drawstring to secure them just below the knee. Ordinary canvas +leggings will not do. The leggings _must_ be made in one piece, without +side buttons or other fastenings, for otherwise snow will work through +to the great discomfort of the wearer. + +I have a pair of buckskin moccasins sewn to legs of harbor sealskin, +the hair side of the sealskin out. This arrangement is preferable to +separate leggings but sealskin legs are difficult to procure. + +Ordinarily I have found one pair of knit socks, one pair of the long +duffle stockings described above and one pair of the duffle slippers, +worn inside the buckskin moccasins, quite sufficient. + +The knit socks may be done away with entirely and also one pair of +duffle slippers if rabbit-skin socks are to be had. These are worn with +the hair next the foot, and are very warm and soft. + +In weather when the snow softens and becomes wet at midday, buckskin +moccasins will not do, for the least moisture penetrates buckskin. In +such weather sealskin boots are the best foot protection. They are +waterproof, pliable and light. Sealskin boots for this purpose have +neither soles nor heels. They are simply sealskin moccasins with legs, +secured with drawstrings below the knee. These are of Eskimo make, and +not generally obtainable though they may be purchased in Newfoundland. +Oil-tanned moccasins, or larrigans, are the next best moist-snow foot +gear. + +Buckskin mittens with one or two inner pairs of mittens of thick wool +duffle, will protect the hands in the coldest weather. One pair should +be a little smaller than the other, that it may fit snugly into the +larger pair without wrinkles, and the larger pair of a size to fit in +the same manner into the buckskin mittens. When the weather is too warm +for both pairs, one pair may be removed. A fringe of muskrat or other +fur around the wrists of the buckskin mittens protects the wrists from +drifting snow. + +A pad of rabbit-skin worn across the forehead will protect it from +intense cold. Hunting hoods of knit camel's hair worsted are a pretty +good head protection, particularly at night. They cover the whole head +except the face, and may be drawn up over the chin. Mouth and nose must +not be covered, or the breath will quickly form a mass of ice upon the +face. + +One caution, though it may seem a digression, may be made: If the nose +or cheeks become frosted, as will certainly happen sooner or later to +one traveling in a very low temperature, _do not rub snow upon the +frosted part_. Snow rubbed on is pretty certain to fracture and remove +sections of the skin. The Eskimo way is to hold or rub the frosted part +with the bare hand until frost has been removed, and is far superior. + +The clothing outfit above described will be found ample. Extra trousers +or other extra outer garments are not needed. _Let all hang loosely +upon the body._ Nothing should fit snugly. + +A pair of smoked or amber goggles should always be included in the +winter outfit. Amber is more effective than smoked glass, though +ordinarily the latter will do. The goggles should be fastened with a +string to slip over the back of the head. _No metal should touch the +flesh._ + +The best low temperature sleeping bag is one of caribou skin made with +the hair inside. Under ordinary conditions, however, a waterproofed +canvas bag lined with good woolen blankets will do as well, though such +a bag with sufficient blanket lining to give it warmth equal to that +of the caribou skin bag would be much heavier and more bulky than the +latter. A bag lined with four thicknesses of llama wool duffle (that +is, four thicknesses over and four beneath the sleeper), however, +should not weigh more than ten pounds, and would correspond in warmth +to one lined with blankets weighing twenty pounds. + +An A or wedge tent will be found the best model for winter travel. A +sheet-iron tent stove _with bottom_ and telescoping pipe will make the +tent warm and snug. The tent should be fitted with an asbestos ring at +the stovepipe hole as a protection. A pack cloth or tarpaulin will +serve as an adequate and comfortable tent floor. + +It is never safe or advisable for one to travel in the wilderness +alone, for a sprained ankle or broken leg in an isolated region would +be more than likely to result in death. + +In the Hudson Bay country two pounds of flour, one pound of fat pork, +with baking powder, tea and sugar, form the daily ration for a man. It +is well when possible to carry frozen fresh meat, free from bone, with +a proportion of desiccated vegetables to vary the diet. Butter makes +a tasty variety to the fat, for it will remain sweet at this season. +Prunes and chocolate are both worth while. + +Or if the journey is to be extended the menu may be simplified by +the introduction of pemmican and the elimination of other articles. +Pemmican is the best condensed food ever invented for cold weather +work. One pound of pemmican and a quarter pound of pilot biscuit, as +a daily ration, will sustain a man at hard work, though it will prove +a monotonous diet. The above is merely suggested as a basis. It may +be expanded or contracted as circumstances require without disturbing +its mean value. Let it be remembered, however, that ordinary bread and +other moist foodstuffs will freeze as hard as stone. Jerked venison +and desiccated vegetables make tasty and sustaining additions to the +ration, and will not freeze. + +A man is supposed to be able to haul at good speed upon a toboggan a +load equal to his own weight. Therefore two men, each weighing 150 +pounds, should between them haul 300 pounds. Camp equipment, tent axes, +guns, bedding, extra underclothing and all personal belongings of both, +if proper care be exercised in selection, should weigh not to exceed +140 pounds. Add 80 pounds of food, and we have 220 pounds, or a maximum +load of 110 pounds for each. The tent and general camp outfit is indeed +sufficient for four men. It is presumed that the aluminum cooking +outfit previously described will be chosen. Some eliminations, as, +for example, that of the folding baker, might easily be made without +serious loss of comfort. + +To secure the load upon the toboggan, arrange the bags in which it is +packed evenly, taking care that no part of the load extends beyond the +sides of the toboggan. Adjust the tarpaulin or canvas ground cloth +neatly over it. Secure one end of your lash rope to the side rope on +one side at the rear. Bring the other end over and under the side rope +opposite. Cross it back over the load and over and under side rope to +front of next crossbar, and so on to front crossbar, taking slack as +you proceed. From front to rear criss-cross rope in same manner over +load and under side ropes, forming diamonds where the rope crosses +itself on top of load. Bring the end of rope under side rope at rear, +take in all slack and tie. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +WITH DOGS AND KOMATIK + + +In considering equipment for dog and sledge traveling, we must +constantly bear in mind the necessity of keeping down weight and +bulk. Not long since, while visiting the establishment of a New York +City outfitter, I saw an equipment which a sportsman ambitious for +experience with dogs and komatik (sledge) had selected for a month's +journey which he was about to undertake. Exclusive of provisions there +was enough material to weight down four eight-dog teams. Among other +things was a specially designed tent stove that would have tipped the +scales at upwards of one hundred pounds. + +The would-be traveler declared with pride that he "did not intend to +have cold camps." It certainly gave me "cold feet" to contemplate his +outfit. It was the most ridiculous and impracticable conglomerate +aggregation of camping material that I have ever seen put together, +and I doubt if the would-be traveler ever found a sufficient number of +dogs at any one point to transport it. + +While it is the aim of every experienced camper to obtain the greatest +degree of comfort of which circumstances will admit, the voyager with +dogs cannot hope to carry with him the luxuries of a metropolitan +hotel, and one soon learns how little after all is really necessary to +make one comfortable. + +How much weight a team of eight good dogs can haul depends upon the +character of the country and the condition of the snow or ice. Under +very favorable conditions I have seen such a team make good progress +with twelve hundred pounds. Ordinarily, however, eight hundred pounds +is a full load, and if much rough ice, hilly country or soft snow is +encountered six hundred pounds will be found all too heavy. I have +heard of cases, when traveling was exceptionally good, of dogs covering +upwards of one hundred miles a day. The biggest day's travel I ever +made with dogs was sixty miles, but often I have toiled day after day, +pulling and hauling with the animals at the traces, lifting the komatik +over rough places, or packing a trail for the team with my snowshoes, +to find myself rewarded with less than ten miles when camping time +arrived. + +In selecting outfit the region to be visited will be a factor to take +into consideration. It would be quite impossible to discuss adequately +in a single chapter all the phases of dog travel to be provided for. +We shall therefore leave out of consideration polar outfitting, or +outfitting for other unusual work, which the reader of this will +scarcely be likely to undertake. + +The clothing suggested in the chapter on snowshoe and toboggan travel +is equally well suited to travel with dogs and komatik. Should the +voyager's ambition, however, draw him within the sub-arctic regions or +across the Arctic Circle some additional protection will be needed. + +In the far Arctic the natives wear trousers of either polar bear +skin or caribou skin, with an upper garment of caribou skin called, +in Greenland, the "kulutar;" in Labrador, the "kulutuk." The only +difference between the adickey and the kulutuk is that the one is made +of cloth, the other of caribou skin. In Ungava I supplied myself with +caribou skin trousers, which, as is the custom there, I drew on over my +moleskin trousers in windy or intensely cold weather. + +The kulutuk takes the place of the moleskin adickey. That is to +say, the kersey adickey worn under the kulutuk will be found ample +protection in any weather, and often the kulutuk of itself will be +found sufficient. + +Kulutuk and skin trousers are worn hair side out. Were they worn with +the hairy side in, they would accumulate moisture exuded by the body, +and the moisture would freeze, presently transforming the hair into a +mass of ice. A friend of mine going to the Arctic for the first time +as a member of one of Peary's early Greenland expeditions, turned his +kulutuk inside out and donned it with the hairy side next the body. +The Eskimos laughed, and resenting their levity he assured them it was +much warmer worn in that manner than as they wore it. "No," said one +of them, "if it were warmer worn that way the animals would wear their +fur inside." My friend quickly learned by experience the logic of the +Eskimo's argument. + +Deerskin kulutuk and trousers are not easily purchased, though along +any coast where seals are captured similar garments of sealskin may be +procured, which, though not equal to deerskin garments, answer very +well. The skin of the young harbor seal (the ranger seal) is best for +the purpose, as skins of other species are too thick and heavy. When +made of sealskin the upper garment is called a "netsek." + +I discovered when traveling among them that some of the Moravian +missionaries of the Labrador coast wore a buckskin suit under their +ordinary trousers and outer shirt. Such a suit is much lighter than +deerskin trousers and kulutuk, and serves nearly as well. It is not +difficult to purchase buckskin from which one may have such a suit +made. It is wind-proof and very light. + +All skin garments, including moccasins, should be sewn with animal +sinew. Ordinary thread will quickly break out and will not do. +Thread-sewn moccasins are factory-made, and will give very little +service. + +The types of snowshoes suggested in the chapter on snowshoe and +toboggan travel are the types also best suited to dog and komatik work. +Long snowshoes would be very much in the way when one has to go to the +traces and haul with the dogs or lift and assist the komatik over rough +places; and this becomes the rule rather than the exception as one goes +North. + +Let me insist that the web should be of good caribou babiche, and not +the ordinary rawhide used in many of the snowshoes offered for sale. +The former will not stretch when wet, while the latter will stretch and +bag so badly as to render the snowshoe practically useless. + +It is well to wrap the frame on either side where the babiche is +drawn around it, with buckskin or sealskin. Otherwise even a slight +crust upon the snow will in time cut the babiche strands. Wrapping the +snowshoe in this manner will at least double its life. + +What was said in reference to tent, small sheet-iron stove and general +camp and cooking outfit in the previous chapter will apply here, as +well as directions heretofore given for packing in waterproof bags. In +selecting the sleeping bag, give first preference to one of deerskin. + +In a barren region where firewood is not to be had, it will be +necessary to carry an alcohol or kerosene burner and stock of fuel. The +former is preferable on account of the low freezing point of alcohol. +Alcohol or oil should be secured in tin cases. It is regularly put up +in this way by dealers. + +In such a region, too, it may be necessary to carry snow knives with +which to cut blocks of snow for the erection of snow igloos as shelter. +These knives resemble somewhat the machete. One cannot, however, learn +to build a snow igloo properly without long practice. This phase of +the work is merely referred to as interesting; for anyone traveling +in a country where snow house shelter is necessary will secure the +assistance of a native, who will attend to proper sledge outfitting at +the point of departure. + +On regular lines of dog travel opportunities to renew the provision +supply will frequently occur, and cabins for night shelter will be +found. Therefore the food outfit will depend upon the country to be +traversed. Where long stretches occur between supply points, however, +fat pork, pilot bread, tea and sugar should form the basis. The very +best possible food, however, for this work is pemmican, pilot bread, +tea and sugar. Of course a little coffee may be carried, but it is +bulky. + +The traveler will make his selection carefully, building around pork, +pilot bread and pemmican with other articles of food like desiccated +vegetables from which water has been eliminated. Too much salt meat +opens the door to scurvy, unless sufficient variation in the way of +vegetables, fish, or fresh meat is introduced. Dessicated cranberries +are an excellent preventive. A man can do good hard work day in and day +out, as already stated, upon one pound of pemmican and a quarter pound +of pilot bread as a daily ration, and such a ration offers no danger of +scurvy. + +Dog pemmican is the best dog food, and the lightest, for dogs will +do pretty well upon one pound of pemmican each a day. To do well +the animals should be given plenty of fat, when pemmican is not +available, though not a clear fat diet, for that will make them sick. +Three-quarters of a pound of fat and three-quarters of a pound of meat +or fish is an ordinary ration. Dogs are fed but once a day--at night. + +The number of dogs in a team varies, but the average team is composed +of seven or eight. Eight or nine is the most economical number so far +as results are concerned. + +In the Northwest dogs are harnessed tandem. This is the white man's +method. In the Northeast they are harnessed fan fashion--the Eskimo +method. That is to say, each dog has an individual trace secured to +the end of a single thong, leading out from the bow of the komatik and +called the bridle. The individual traces are of various lengths. The +dog with the longest trace is the leader of the pack, and particularly +trained to respond to the driver's directions. The other dogs will +follow his lead. + +For open country and sea ice travel the Eskimo method is probably best, +as the work is more evenly distributed and the driver can always tell +whether each dog is doing his share of the work, but for narrow trails +and woods travel the tandem method is more practicable. + +Dogs are good, bad and indifferent. One seldom has an opportunity +to pick one's dogs discriminately, and rarely may one purchase them +outright unless contracted for a year in advance, for the native dog +owner seldom maintains animals in excess of his requirements in the +ordinary routine of his life. The traveler will usually be able, +however, to hire a team by employing the owner to drive it, and the +owner of a team will get much more work out of his dogs than a stranger +to the dogs can hope to do. + +At least a year's experience is necessary to enable a white man to +handle a dog team with anything approaching efficiency, and even then +one cannot hope to approach the performance of an Eskimo. The failure +to enlist Eskimos as dog drivers has been the real cause of the failure +of many an Arctic expedition. + +It is advised, then, that the traveler employ at so much per day or for +the trip driver and dogs. It is an unsafe experiment to start off with +a dog team unattended by an experienced man. The owner of the team will +supply also the necessary dog harness, his own dog whip and general dog +traveling paraphernalia, including the komatik. + +Sledges or komatiks vary in different localities as to width, length +and minor methods of construction. The average komatik is two +feet wide and ten feet long but as stated, they vary in different +localities, a uniform width being maintained to suit the local +conditions of the region in which they are used. For example, wide and +comparatively short komatiks are employed in Quebec, while the Ungava +komatik is but sixteen inches wide. These latter komatiks are usually +fifteen or sixteen feet in length, however. The runners stand ten +inches high. This is, in fact, the heaviest and most efficient komatik +I have ever seen. Each runner is made from a single piece of timber +and is from two and one-half to three inches thick. It is designed for +the roughest possible use, and is, I believe, better adapted to this +purpose than the Greenland komatik because more substantially built. +The latter is peculiar in that it has upstands at the rear for guiding +it. + +Crossbars, extending an inch or so on either side of the runners and +from one to two inches apart, are lashed into place with rawhide. When +the rawhide shrinks the komatik becomes firm. Iron fastenings being +rigid would break too readily, particularly in intense cold, to be +reliable. + +The traveler will do well, therefore, to purchase if he does not hire +his komatik at the point of departure, as in so doing he will secure +one of correct design for the region to be traversed. + +It is well to have a box made the width of the komatik two or three +feet long, and about fourteen inches deep to lash upon the rear end of +the komatik in which cooking utensils and a portion of the food supply, +as well as odds and ends, may be carried. This should be supplied with +a hinged cover, and hook or clasp by which the cover may be securely +fastened down. + +The best lash for securing the load in position is one of sealskin, +though ordinary hemp rope will do. Before lashing, the tarpaulin should +be neatly folded over the top of load to protect it. + +One end of the lash is secured to an end of the crossbar at the forward +end of the load, brought across the load and under the other end, then +across, skipping a couple of crossbars, and back again skipping a couple +of crossbars, thus threading it from side to side under the ends of +every second or third crossbar to the rear bar, where it is brought +across the load to the opposite end of this crossbar and crisscrossed +across the load again to the forward crossbar to be tied. + + +THE END + + + + +Transcriber's note: + +Inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been retained. +Punctuation has been normalized. + +The following errors have been corrected: + + * p. 46 "two or three hundreds" fixed to "... hundred" + * p. 51 Chapter VII: fixed numbering of topics + * p. 72 carelessless -> carelessness + * p. 85 change A_1 to A´ to match the illustration + * p. 87 graps -> grasps + * p. 88 "betwee nthem" -> "between them" + * p. 90 fixed period instead of comma + * p. 90 graps -> grasps + * p. 119 removed redundant "of" + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Packing and Portaging, by Dillon Wallace + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PACKING AND PORTAGING *** + +***** This file should be named 44720-8.txt or 44720-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/4/4/7/2/44720/ + +Produced by Itay Perl and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license + + +Title: Packing and Portaging + +Author: Dillon Wallace + +Release Date: January 20, 2014 [EBook #44720] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PACKING AND PORTAGING *** + + + + +Produced by Itay Perl and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1" name="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> + +<h1>PACKING AND PORTAGING</h1> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="cover" /> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2" name="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a><br /><a id="Page_3" name="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p> + +<div class="titlepage"> + + <p class="ph1">PACKING AND<br /> + PORTAGING</p> + + <p class="ph3">BY<br /> + <span class="ph2">DILLON WALLACE</span></p> + + <p class="center narrow">Author of "The Lure of the Labrador Wild," "The + Long Labrador Trail," "Saddle and Camp in + the Rockies," "Across the Mexican + Sierras," etc.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <img src="images/03a.png" alt="OUTING HANDBOOKS" /> + </div> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <img src="images/03b.png" alt="" /> + </div> + + <p class="ph4">NEW YORK<br /> + <span class="ph3">OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY</span><br /> + MCMXII </p> + + <p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4" name="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span></p> + + <hr class="chap" /> + + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Copyright, 1912, by</span><br /> + <span class="ph3">OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY</span></p> + + <hr class="rights" /> + + <p class="ph4">All rights reserved + </p> + +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5" name="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CONTENTS" name="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</a></h2> + +<table class="toc" summary="TOC"> + <tr> + <th>CHAPTER</th><th></th><th>PAGE</th> + </tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">I.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_I"><span class="smcap">Packing and the Outfit</span></a></td><td class="tdr">9</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">II.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_II"><span class="smcap">The Canoe and Its Equipment</span></a></td><td class="tdr">12</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">III.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_III"><span class="smcap">Camp Equipment for the Canoe Trip</span></a></td><td class="tdr">15</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">IV.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><span class="smcap">Personal Equipment</span></a></td><td class="tdr">23</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">V.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_V"><span class="smcap">Food</span></a></td><td class="tdr">31</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">VI.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><span class="smcap">The Portage</span></a></td><td class="tdr">38</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">VII.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><span class="smcap">Travel with Saddle and Pack Animals</span></a></td><td class="tdr">51</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">VIII.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><span class="smcap">Saddle and Pack Equipment</span></a></td><td class="tdr">56</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">IX.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><span class="smcap">Personal Outfit for the Saddle</span></a></td><td class="tdr">64</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">X.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_X"><span class="smcap">Adjusting the Pack</span></a></td><td class="tdr">71</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">XI.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XI"><span class="smcap">Some Practical Hitches</span></a></td><td class="tdr">77</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">XII.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XII"><span class="smcap">Traveling Without a Pack Horse</span></a></td><td class="tdr">101</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">XIII.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII"><span class="smcap">Afoot in Summer</span></a></td><td class="tdr">106</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">XIV.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV"><span class="smcap">With Snowshoes and Toboggan</span></a></td><td class="tdr">110</td></tr> + + <tr><td class="tdr">XV.</td><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XV"><span class="smcap">With Dogs and Komatik</span></a></td><td class="tdr">123</td></tr> +</table> +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6" name="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a><br /><a id="Page_7" name="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="ILLUSTRATIONS" name="ILLUSTRATIONS">ILLUSTRATIONS</a></h2> + +<table class="toc" summary="List of illustrations"> + <tr> + <th></th> <th>PAGE</th> + </tr> + + <tr><td><a href="#i58">Method of Slinging Load on Aparejo</a></td><td class="tdr">58, 59</td></tr> + + <tr><td><a href="#i74">Sling for Racking on Crosstree Saddle</a></td><td class="tdr">74</td></tr> + + <tr><td><a href="#i79">Squaw or Crosstree Hitch</a></td><td class="tdr">79, 80</td></tr> + + <tr><td><a href="#i82">The Crosstree Diamond Hitch</a></td><td class="tdr">82, 83</td></tr> + + <tr><td><a href="#i85">United States Army Diamond Hitch</a></td><td class="tdr">85, 86</td></tr> + + <tr><td><a href="#i93">Lifting Hitch</a></td><td class="tdr">93, 94</td></tr> + + <tr><td><a href="#i96">Stirrup Hitch</a></td><td class="tdr">96</td></tr> + + <tr><td><a href="#i97">Saddle Hitch</a></td><td class="tdr">97</td></tr> +</table> +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8" name="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a><br /><a id="Page_9" name="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p> + +<p class="center ph1">PACKING AND PORTAGING</p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_I" name="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a><br /><br /> +PACKING AND THE OUTFIT</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">Ordinarily</span> the verb <i>to pack</i> means +to stow articles snugly into receptacles, +but in the parlance of the trail it often +means to carry or transport the articles from +place to place. The <i>pack</i> in the language of +the trail is the load a man or horse carries.</p> + +<p>Likewise, a <i>portage</i> on a canoe route is a +break between navigable waters, over which +canoe and outfit must be carried; or the word +may be used as a verb, and one may say, "I +will portage the canoe," meaning "I will carry +the canoe." In the course of the following +pages these terms will doubtless all be used in +their various significations.</p> + +<p>Save for the few who are able to employ a +retinue of professional guides and packers to +attend to the details of transportation, the one<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10" name="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> +chief problem that confronts the wilderness +traveler is that of how to reduce the weight +of his outfit to the minimum with the least +possible sacrifice of comfort. It is only the +veriest tenderfoot that deliberately endures +hardships or discomforts where hardships and +discomforts are unnecessary. Experienced +wilderness travelers always make themselves +as comfortable as conditions will permit, and +there is no reason why one who hits the trail +for sport, recreation or health should do otherwise.</p> + +<p>In a description, then, of the methods of +packing and transporting outfits the tenderfoot +and even the man whose feet are becoming calloused +may welcome some hints as to the selection +of compact, light, but, at the same time, efficient +outfits. These hints on outfitting, therefore, +I shall give, leaving out of consideration +the details of camp making, camp cookery and +those phases of woodcraft that have no direct +bearing upon the prime question of packing and +transportation on the trail.</p> + +<p>Let us classify the various methods of wilderness +travel under the following heads: 1. +By Canoe; 2. With Saddle and Pack Animals; +3. Afoot in Summer; 4. On Snowshoes; 5. +With Dogs and Sledge. Taking these in order, +and giving our attention first to canoe<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11" name="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> +travel, it will be found convenient further to +subdivide this branch of the subject and discuss +in order: (a) The Canoe and its Equipment; +(b) Camp Equipment for a Canoe +Trip; (c) Personal Equipment; (d) Food; +(e) The Portage.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12" name="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_II" name="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a><br /><br /> + THE CANOE AND ITS EQUIPMENT</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">A sixteen-foot</span> canoe with a width +of at least 33 inches and a depth of at +least 12 inches will accommodate two +men, an adequate camping outfit and a full ten +weeks' provisions very nicely, and at the same +time not lie too deep in the water. A fifteen-foot +canoe, unless it has a beam of at least 35 +inches and a depth of 12 inches or more, is +unsuitable. Three men with their outfit and +provisions will require an eighteen-foot canoe +with a width of 35 inches or more and a depth +of no less than 13 inches, or a seventeen-foot +canoe with a width of 37 inches and 13 inches +deep. The latter size is lighter by from ten +to fifteen pounds than the former, while the +displacement is about equal.</p> + +<p>The best all-around canoe for cruising and +hard usage is the canvas-covered cedar canoe. +Both ribs and planking should be of cedar, and +only full length planks should enter into the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13" name="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> +construction. Where short planking is used +the canoe will sooner or later become hogged—that +is, the ends will sag downward from the +middle.</p> + +<p>In Canada the "Peterborough" canoe is +more largely used than the canvas-covered. +These are to be had in both basswood and +cedar. Cedar is brittle, while basswood is +tough, but the latter absorbs water more readily +than the former and in time will become +more or less waterlogged.</p> + +<p>Cruising canoes should be supplied with a +middle thwart for convenient portaging. Any +canoe larger than sixteen feet should have +three thwarts. To lighten weight on the portage, +and provide more room for storing outfit, +it is advisable to remove the cane seats with +which canvas canoes are usually provided. +This can be readily done by unscrewing the +nuts beneath the gunwale which hold the seats +in position.</p> + +<p>Good strong paddles—sufficiently strong to +withstand the heavy strain to which cruising +paddles are put—should be selected. On the +portage they must bear the full weight of the +canoe; they will frequently be utilized in poling +up stream against stiff currents; and in running +rapids they will be subjected to rough +usage. On extended cruises it is advisable to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14" name="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> +carry one spare paddle to take the place of +one that may be rendered useless.</p> + +<p>Experienced canoemen pole up minor rapids. +Poles for this purpose can usually be cut at the +point where they are needed, but pole "shoes"—that +is, spikes fitted with ferrules—to fit on +the ends of poles are a necessary adjunct to +the outfit where poling is to be done. Without +shoes to hold the pole firmly on the bottom +of the stream the pole may slip and pitch +the canoeman overboard. The ferrules should +be punctured with at least two nail holes, by +which they may be secured to the poles, and +a few nails should be carried for this purpose.</p> + +<p>A hundred feet or so of half-inch rope +should also be provided, to be used as a tracking +line and the various other uses for which +rope may be required.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15" name="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_III" name="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a><br /><br /> +CAMP EQUIPMENT FOR A CANOE TRIP</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">Personal</span> likes and prejudices have +much to do with the form of tent chosen. +My own preference is for either the "A" +or wedge tent, with the Hudson's Bay model as +second choice, for general utility. Either of +these is particularly adapted also to winter +travel where the tent must often be pitched +upon the snow. If, however, the tent is only +to be used in summer, and particularly in canoe +travel where a light, easily erected model is +desired, the Frazer tent is both ideal for comfort +and is an exceedingly light weight model +for portaging.</p> + +<p>Duck or drill tents are altogether too heavy +and quite out of date. They soak water and +are an abomination on the portage. The best +tent is one of balloon silk, <i>tanalite</i>, or of extra +light green waterproofed tent cloth. The balloon +silk tent is very slightly heavier than +either of the others, but is exceedingly durable. +For instance, a <span class="dimension">7<sup>1</sup>/<sub>3</sub> × 7<sup>1</sup>/<sub>3</sub></span> foot "A" tent of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16" name="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> +either tanalite or extra light green waterproof +tent cloth, fitted with sod cloth, complete, +weighs eight pounds, while a similar tent of +waterproof balloon silk weighs nine pounds. +A Hudson's Bay model, <span class="dimension">6 × 9</span> feet, weighs respectively +seven and seven and one-half pounds.</p> + +<p>These three cloths are not only waterproof +and practically rot proof, but do not soak +water, which is a feature for consideration +where much portaging is to be done and camp +is moved almost daily.</p> + +<p>Some dealers recommend that customers +going into a fly or mosquito country have +the tent door fitted with bobbinet. The idea +is good, but cheese cloth is much cheaper and +incomparably better than bobbinet.</p> + +<p>The cheese-cloth door should be made rather +full, and divided at the center from tent peak +to ground, with numerous tie strings to bring +the edges tight together when in use, and other +strings or tapes on either side, where it is attached +to the tent, to reef or roll and tie it back +out of the way when not needed.</p> + +<p>When purchasing a light-weight tent, see +that the dealer supplies a bag of proper size +in which to pack it.</p> + +<p>A pack cloth <span class="dimension">6 × 7</span> feet in size, of brown +waterproof canvas weighing about 3<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> pounds, +makes an excellent covering for the tent floor<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17" name="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> +at night. On the portage blankets and odds +and ends will be packed and carried on it. If +one end and the two sides of the pack cloth +are fitted with snap buttons it may be converted +into a snug sleeping bag with a pair of blankets +folded lengthwise, the bottom and sides +of the blanket secured with blanket safety pins +as a lining for the bag.</p> + +<p>My standby for summer camping is a fine +all-wool gray blanket <span class="dimension">72 × 78</span> inches in size +and weighing 5<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> pounds. This I have found +sufficient even in frosty autumn weather—always, +in fact, until the weather grows cold +enough to freeze streams and close them to +canoe navigation. Used as a lining for the +improvised pack cloth sleeping bag, this blanket +is quite bedding enough and makes an exceedingly +comfortable bed, too.</p> + +<p>A three-quarter axe with a 24- or 28-inch +handle makes a mighty good camp axe. A +full axe is heavy and inconvenient to portage +and the lighter axe will serve every purpose in +any country at any time. Personally I favor +the Hudson's Bay axe. This may be had fitted +either with a 24-inch or 18-inch handle. In +the two-party outfit which we are discussing +there should be two axes, one of which may +be fitted with the shorter handle, but the other +should have at least a 24- and preferably a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18" name="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> +28-inch handle. Every axe should have a +leather sheath or scabbard for convenient packing. +The so-called pocket axes are too small +to be of practical use. The camper does not +wish to miss the luxury of the big evening +camp-fire, and he can never provide for it with +a small hatchet or toy pocket axe.</p> + +<p>Cooking utensils of aluminum alloy are the +lightest and best for the trail. Tin and iron +will rust, enamel ware will chip, and unalloyed +aluminum is too soft and bends out of shape. +The best sporting goods dealers carry complete +outfits of aluminum alloy. I have used them +in the frigid North and in the tropics, in canoe, +sledging, tramping and horseback journeys, +and can recommend them unequivocally, save +perhaps the frying pan.</p> + +<p>The two-man cooking and dining outfit +should contain the following utensils:</p> + +<ul class="list"> + <li>1 Pot with cover <span class="dimension">7 × 6<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub></span> inches, capacity three quarts.</li> + <li>1 Coffee pot <span class="dimension">6 × 6<sup>1</sup>/<sub>8</sub></span> inches, capacity two quarts.</li> + <li>1 Steel frying pan <span class="dimension">9<sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub> × 2</span> inches, with folding handle.</li> + <li>1 Pan <span class="dimension">9 × 3</span> inches, with folding handle, for mixing- and dish-pan.</li> + <li>2 Plates 8<sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub> inches diameter.</li> + <li>2 Cups.</li> + <li>2 Aluminum alloy forks.</li> + <li>2 Dessert spoons.</li> + <li>1 Large cooking spoon.</li> + <li>1 Dish mop.</li> + <li>2 Dish towels.</li> +</ul> + +<p>The regular aluminum alloy cup is too<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19" name="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> +small for practical camp use. There is an +aluminum bowl, however, holding one pint, but +without a handle. This is about the right size +for a practical cup, and I have a handle riveted +on it and use it as a cup. The top only of the +handle should be attached, that the cups may +set one inside the other. The heat conducting +quality of aluminum makes it a question +whether or not enamel cups are not preferable.</p> + +<p>To pack the outfit snugly, set the mixing pan +into the frying pan, the handles of both pans +folded, place the plates, one on top of the +other, in the mixing pan, the cooking pot on +top of these, and the coffee pot inside the cooking +pot. The cups will fit in the coffee pot. +The weight of this outfit complete is 5<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> +pounds.</p> + +<p>A waterproof canvas bag of proper size +should be provided in which to pack the utensils. +Forks and spoons, wrapped in a dish +towel, will fit nicely in the canvas bag alongside +the pots.</p> + +<p><i>Waterproof</i> canvas is suggested for the bag, +not to protect the utensils but because anything +but waterproofed material will absorb +moisture and become watersoaked in rainy +weather, adding materially to the weight of +the outfit.</p> + +<p>One of the handiest aids to baking is the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20" name="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> +aluminum reflecting baker. An aluminum +baker <span class="dimension">16 × 18</span> inches when open, folds to a +package <span class="dimension">12 × 18</span> inches and about two inches +thick, and fitted into a waterproof canvas case +weighs, case and all, about four pounds.</p> + +<p>Broilers, fire irons, fire blowers or inspirators, +as they are sometimes called, and many +other things that are convenient enough but +quite unnecessary, should never burden the outfit. +Even though the weight of some of them +may be insignificant, each additional claptrap +makes one more thing to look after. There +are a thousand and one claptraps, indeed, that +outfitters offer, but which do not possess sufficient +advantage to pay for the care and labor +of transportation, and my advice is, leave them +out, one and all.</p> + +<p>Outfitters supply small packing bags of +proper size to fit, one on top of another, into +larger waterproof canvas bags. These small +bags are made preferably of balloon silk. By +using them the whole outfit may be snugly and +safely packed for the portage.</p> + +<p>In one of these small bags keep the general +supply of matches, though each canoeist should +carry a separate supply for emergency in his +individual kit.</p> + +<p>In like manner two or three cakes of soap +should be packed in another small bag. Float<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21" name="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>ing +soap is less likely to be lost than soap that +sinks.</p> + +<p>A dozen candles will be quite enough. +These if packed in a tin box of proper size +will not be broken.</p> + +<p>Repair kits should be provided. A file for +sharpening axes and a whetstone for general +use are of the first importance. Include also +a pair of pincers, a ball of stout twine and a +few feet of copper wire. A tool haft or handle +with a variety of small tools inside is convenient. +Either a stick of canoe cement, a +small supply of marine glue, or a canoe repair +outfit such as canoe manufacturers put up and +which contain canvas, white lead, copper tacks, +calor and varnish will be found a valuable adjunct +to the outfit should the canoe become +damaged. This tool and repair equipment +should be packed in a strong canvas bag small +enough to drop into the larger nine-inch waterproof +bag.</p> + +<p>A small leather medicine case with vials +containing, in tabloid form, a cathartic, an +astringent (lead and opium pills are good) +and bichloride of mercury, suffices for the +drug supply. Surgical necessities are: Some +antiseptic bandages, a package of linen gauze, +a spool of adhesive plaster and one-eighth +pound of absorbent cotton, wrapped in oiled<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22" name="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> +silk. In addition most campers find it convenient +to have in their personal outfit a pair +of small scissors. These are absolutely necessary +if one is to put on a bandage properly. +The regular surgical scissors, the two blades of +which hook together at the center, are the +most convenient sort, both to use and to carry, +and have the keenest edge.</p> + +<p>A pair of tweezers takes up but little room +and is useful for extracting splinters or for +holding a wad of absorbent cotton in swabbing +out a wound, as cotton will, of course, become +septic if held in the fingers.</p> + +<p>A small scalpel is better than the knife blade +for opening up an infection, as it is more convenient +to handle and will make a deep short +incision when desired. These will all be +packed in one of the small balloon silk bags.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23" name="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_IV" name="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a><br /><br /> +PERSONAL EQUIPMENT</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">Each</span> canoeist should have a personal +kit or duffle bag of waterproof canvas. +These may be purchased from outfitters +and are usually 36 inches deep and of 12, 15, +18 or 21 inches diameter. The 12-inch bag, +however, is amply large to accommodate all +one needs in the way of clothing and other personal +gear. This, as well as every other +waterproof canvas packing bag mentioned, excepting +the cooking kit bag, should be supplied +with a handle on the bottom and one on the +side. These bags not only keep the contents +dry, but, as previously stated, do not absorb +moisture to add to the weight, a very essential +feature where every unnecessary pound +must be eliminated. I was once capsized in a +rapid and my duffle bag lay half a day in the +water before it was recovered. The contents +were perfectly dry.</p> + +<p>One suit of medium weight woolen underclothing +in addition to the suit worn is ample<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24" name="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> +for a short trip. Four extra pairs of thick +woolen socks should be provided—the home-knit +kind. An excellent material for trousers +to be worn on the trail is moleskin, though for +midsummer wear a good quality khaki is first +rate. Moleskin, however, will withstand the +hardest usage and to my mind is superior to +khaki or any other material where wading is +necessary and on cold or rainy days, as it is +very nearly windproof. A good leather belt +should be worn, even though suspenders support +the trousers.</p> + +<p>The outer shirt should be of light weight +gray or brown flannel and provided with pockets. +A blue flannel shirt of the best quality +is all right. The cheaper qualities of blue +crock, and this feature makes them objectionable. +If the outer shirt is too heavy it will be +found cumbersome under the exertion of the +portage.</p> + +<p>A large, roomy Pontiac shirt to slip over the +outer shirt and use as a sweater is much preferable +to a sweater on the trail. It is windproof +and warm. Do not take a coat—the +Pontiac shirt will be both coat and sweater. +A coat is always in the way on a canoe trip +and makes the pack that much heavier.</p> + +<p>A pair of low leather or canvas wading +shoes for river work and larrigans or shoe<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25" name="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> +pacs for ordinary wear, large enough to admit +two pairs of woolen socks, are best suited to +canoeing. Heavy, hobnailed mountaineer +shoes or boots are not in place here.</p> + +<p>Heavy German socks, supplied with garter +and clasp to hold them in position, are better +than canvas leggings, and protect the legs from +chill at times when wading is necessary in icy +waters.</p> + +<p>Any kind of an old slouch hat is suitable.</p> + +<p>Some canoeists take with them a suit of +featherweight oilskin. Personally I have +never worn rainproof garments when canoeing. +Once I carried a so-called waterproof +coat, but it was not waterproof. It leaked +water like a sieve, and was no protection even +from the gentlest shower. I am inclined, however, +to favor featherweight oilskins, though +not while portaging—they would be found too +warm—but when paddling in rainy weather, +or to wear on rainy days about camp.</p> + +<p>If the trip is to extend into a black fly or +mosquito region, protection against the insects +should be provided. A head net of black bobbinet +that will set down upon the shoulders, +with strings to tie under the arms, is about the +best arrangement for the head. Old loose kid +gloves, with the fingers cut off, and farmers' +satin elbow sleeves to fit under the wrist bands<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26" name="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> +of the outer shirt will protect the wrists and +hands. The armlets should be well and tightly +sewn upon the gloves, for black flies are not +content to attack where they alight, and will +explore for the slightest opening and discover +some undefended spot. They are, too, a hundred +times more vicious than mosquitoes.</p> + +<p>There are many receipts for fly dope, but in +a half hour after application perspiration will +eliminate the virtue of most mixtures and a +renewed application must be made. Nessmuk's +receipt is perhaps as good as any, and +the formula is as follows:</p> + +<table summary="Ingredients" class="list"> +<tr><td>Oil of pine tar</td><td>3 parts</td></tr> +<tr><td>Castor oil</td><td>2 parts</td></tr> +<tr><td>Oil of pennyroyal</td><td>1 part</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>If when you were a child your father held +your nose as an inducement for you to open +your mouth while your mother poured castor +oil down your throat, the odor of the castor +oil rising above the odors of the other ingredients +will revive sad memories. Indeed it is +claimed for this mixture that the dead will +rise and flee from its compounded odor as they +would flee from eternal torment. It certainly +should ward off such little creatures as black +flies and mosquitoes.</p> + +<p>Another effective mixture is:</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27" name="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p> + +<table summary="Ingredients" class="list"> +<tr><td>Oil of tar</td><td>3 parts</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sweet oil</td><td>3 parts</td></tr> +<tr><td>Oil of pennyroyal</td><td>1 part</td></tr> +<tr><td>Carbolic acid</td><td>3 per cent.</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>An Indian advised me once to carry a fat +salt pork rind in my pocket, and now and again +rub the greasy side upon face and hands. I +tried it and found it nearly as good as the +dopes.</p> + +<p>Unless one penetrates, however, far north +In Canada during black fly season these extraordinary +precautions will scarcely be necessary. +There Is nowhere In the United States +a region where black flies are really very bad +(though perhaps I am drawing invidious comparisons +in making the statement), and even +in interior Newfoundland they are, compared +with the farther north, tame and rather inoffensive +though always troublesome.</p> + +<p>The choice of fishing tackle, guns and arms +depends largely upon personal taste. Steel +rods of the best quality will serve better than +split bamboo on an extended trip where one, +continuously on the portage trail, is often unable +to properly dry the tackle. The steady +soaking of a split bamboo rod for a week is +likely to loosen the sections and injure a fine +rod. A waterproof canvas or pantasote case<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28" name="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> +is the right sort for the rod—leather cases are +unpractical on a cruising trip.</p> + +<p>Leather gun cases, too, under like circumstances +will become watersoaked, and under +any circumstances they are unnecessarily +heavy. Use canvas cases therefore in consideration +for your back. They are light and in +a season of rain immeasurably better than +leather.</p> + +<p>Economize, also, on ammunition. Do your +target practice before you hit the trail. A +hunter that cannot get his limit of big game +with twenty rifle cartridges is an unsafe individual +to turn loose in the woods.</p> + +<p>For spruce grouse, ptarmigan and other +small game a ten-inch barrel, 22-caliber single-shot +pistol is an excellent arm, provided one +has had some previous experience in its use. +It is not a burden on the belt, and a handful of +cartridges in the pocket are not noticed.</p> + +<p>Pack your cartridges in a strong canvas bag, +your gun grease and accessories in another receptacle.</p> + +<p>On the belt also carry a broad-pointed four-inch +blade skinning knife of the ordinary +butcher knife shape. This will be your table +knife, as well as cooking and general utility +knife.</p> + +<p>In the pocket carry a stout jackknife, a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29" name="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> +waterproof matchbox, always kept well filled, +and a compass.</p> + +<p>A film camera is more practical for the trail +than a plate camera for many reasons, one of +which is weight. Plates are heavy and easily +broken. It is well to have each roll of films +put up separately in a sealed, water-tight tin. +Dealers will supply them thus at five cents extra +for each film roll. A waterproof pantasote +case, too, is better than leather, for leather in a +long-continued rain will become watersoaked, +as before stated.</p> + +<p>If a plate camera is carried the plates may +be packed in a small light wooden box—a +starch box, for instance. The box will protect +them under ordinary circumstances. Film rolls, +however, may be carried in a small canvas bag +that will slip into one of the larger waterproof +bags.</p> + +<p>My object in outlining outfit is rather to emphasize +the possibilities of selecting a light and +efficient outfit that may be easily packed and +transported on the trail, than to evolve an infallible +check list; therefore I shall not attempt +to name in detail toilet articles, tobacco and +odds and ends. Take nothing, however, save +those things you will surely find occasion to +use, unless I may suggest an extra pipe, should +your pipe be lost. A small balloon silk bag will<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30" name="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> +hold them, together with a sewing case containing +needles, thread, patches and some safety +pins. Another will hold the hand towels and +hand soap in daily use, while an extra hand +towel may be stowed in your duffle bag.</p> + +<p>In concluding this chapter it may be pertinent +to say that the novice on the trail is pretty +certain to burden himself with many things he +will seldom or never use. Take your outfitter +into your confidence. Tell him what sort of a +trip you contemplate and he will advise you. +First-class outfitters are usually practical out-of-door +men and camping experts. They have +made an extended study of the subject, for it +is part of their business to do so. Therefore, +in selecting outfit, it is both safe and wise to +rely upon the advice of any responsible outfitter.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31" name="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_V" name="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a><br /><br /> +FOOD</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">The</span> true wilderness voyager is willing to +endure some discomforts on the trail, +to work hard and submit to black flies +and other pests, but as a reward he usually demands +satisfying meals. There is, indeed, no +reason for him to deny himself a variety and +a plenty, unless his trip is to extend into months. +Weight on the portage trail is always the consideration +that cuts down the ration. Packing +on one's back a ration to be used two or three +months hence is discouraging.</p> + +<p>I have evolved a two-week food supply for +two men, based upon the United States army +ration, varied as the result of my own experiences +have dictated. It offers not only great +variety, but is an exceedingly bountiful ration +even for hungry men. Personal taste will suggest +some eliminations or substitutions that +may be made without material loss or change in +weight. If there is certainty of catching fish +or killing game, or if opportunity offers for +purchasing fresh supplies along the trail, re<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32" name="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>ductions +in quantity may be made accordingly. +For each additional man, or for any period beyond +two weeks, a proportionate increase in +quantity may be made.</p> + +<ul class="list"> + <li>Bacon, 6 pounds.</li> + <li>Salt fat pork, 2 pounds.</li> + <li>Ham or canned meats, 5 pounds.</li> + <li>"Truegg" (egg powder), 1 pound (equals 4 dozen eggs.)</li> + <li>"Trucream" (milk powder), 1<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> pounds.</li> + <li>"Crisco," 3 pounds, (2 cans).</li> + <li>Fresh bread, 2 pounds.</li> + <li>Flour, 12 pounds.</li> + <li>Corn meal (yellow), 1 pound.</li> + <li>Rolled oats, 1 pound.</li> + <li>Rice, 1 pound.</li> + <li>Baking powder, <sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> pound.</li> + <li>Potatoes (Dehydrated) riced, 2 pounds (equals 14 lbs. fresh potatoes).</li> + <li>Potatoes (Dehydrated) sliced, 1 pound (equals 7 lbs. fresh potatoes).</li> + <li>Carrots (Dehydrated), <sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub> pound (equals 3 lbs. fresh carrots).</li> + <li>Onions (Dehydrated), <sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub> pound (equals 3<sup>3</sup>/<sub>4</sub> lbs. fresh onions).</li> + <li>Cranberries (Dehydrated), <sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub> pound (equals 2<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> qts. fresh fruit).</li> + <li>Beans, 2 pounds.</li> + <li>Green peas (Dehydrated), <sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub> pound (equals 1<sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub> lbs. fresh peas).</li> + <li>Coffee (ground), 2 pounds.</li> + <li>Tea, <sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> pound.</li> + <li>Cocoa, <sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> pound.</li> + <li>Sugar (granulated), 5 pounds.</li> + <li>Preserves, 1 pound.</li> + <li>Lemons, <sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> dozen.</li> + <li>Lime tablets, <sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> pound.</li> + <li>Prunes (stoned), 1 pound.</li> + <li>Raisins, 1 pound.</li> + <li>Salt, 1 pound.</li> + <li>Pepper, <sup>1</sup>/<sub>4</sub> ounce.</li> +</ul> + +<p>This gives each man a nominal ration of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33" name="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> +14<sup>1</sup>/<sub>2</sub> pounds a week, or about two pounds +a day. In reality, however, it is more bountiful +than the summer garrison ration and far more +liberal than the summer marching ration of the +army. This is brought about by the pretty +general elimination of water, largely through +the substitution of dehydrated vegetables and +fruits for fresh and canned goods. The dehydrated +products designated are in every particular +equal to fresh products and far superior +to canned goods. Dehydrated vegetables +possess all the qualities, in fact, of fresh vegetables, +with only the large percentage of water +removed. Water is introduced restoring them +to original form usually by boiling. No chemical +is used as a preservative as is the case with +all dried vegetables put up by foreign manufacturers.</p> + +<p>It will be noticed that butter has been omitted +and that "Crisco" has been introduced in +the place of lard and to be used in cooking instead +of butter. Crisco is a product of edible +vegetable oils. It has the appearance of lard +but can be heated to a much higher temperature +without burning, is fully equal to butter when +used as shortening, and dough bread, fish or +other articles of food fried in it will not absorb +it so readily as they will lard, nor will it +transmit the flavor of one food to another. For<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34" name="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> +example, fish may be fried in Crisco, and dough +bread or anything else fried in the same Crisco +will have not the slightest flavor of fish. It +will keep fresh and sweet under conditions that +turn lard and butter rancid. Butter quickly +becomes strong, and the heat of the sun keeps +it in an oily, unpalatable condition, even when +packed in air-tight tins. The most lavish user +of butter will discover that it is no hardship to +go without it when in camp. Crisco, put up +in handy, friction-top cans, can be purchased +from nearly any grocer.</p> + +<p>Coffee should be carried in friction-top tins. +On extended trips coffee is too bulky to carry +save as a special treat. A pound of tea will go +as far as many pounds of coffee; therefore on +trips extending beyond three or four weeks the +proportion of tea should be increased and that +of coffee diminished. On short trips, however, +such as we are discussing, there is no reason +and most Americans usually prefer it even +when in camp.</p> + +<p>Each article of food should have its individual +bag, to fit into one of the larger waterproof +canvas bags described, though the bacon and +fat pork, each piece wrapped in paraffin +(waxed) paper, may be packed in one bag. +Paraffin paper will protect other packages in +the bag from grease. Several articles of small<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35" name="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> +bulk and weight such as dehydrated carrots, +onions, cranberries and green peas each in its +original package or a small muslin bag suitable +in size may be carried in a single balloon +silk bag. The small bags containing such articles +as are not in daily and frequent use should +be stowed in the bottoms of the canvas bags, +while those in constant demand should be at the +top where they can be had without unpacking +the entire bag. Every package or bag should +be plainly labeled with the nature of its contents. +In labeling them use ink, as pencil marks +are too easily obliterated. Where a party is +composed of a sufficient number of people to +make it worth while the party ration for each +day may be weighed out and packed in a separate +receptacle, thus making seven food packages +for each week. This, however, would +be obviously unpractical where there are less +than eight or ten members of the party.</p> + +<p>No glass or crockeryware should be used, +not only because of its liability to break, but +because of its unnecessary weight.</p> + +<p>A good way to carry the tin of baking powder +is to sink it into the sack of flour. The +flour will protect it and preclude the possibility +of the cover coming off and the contents spilling +out. Do not carry prepared or self-raising +flour on the trail. For many reasons it is un<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36" name="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>practical +for trail use, though perhaps most excellent +in the kitchen at home.</p> + +<p>Throughout I have accentuated the advisability +of waterproof covers for everything. +Every ounce of water absorbed by tent, bags, +or package covers, adds to the tedium of the +trail by so much unnecessary weight. When +flour carried in an ordinary sack Is exposed to +rain a paste will form next the cloth, and presently +harden into a crust that will protect the +bulk of flour from injury. But the flour used +up in the process of crust forming is a decided +waste, and the paste, retaining a degree of +moisture, increases weight.</p> + +<p>I have suggested balloon silk for the small +food bags to fit into the larger waterproofed +canvas bags, not only because it does not absorb +moisture, but because there will be no possibility +of the contents sifting through the +cloth. If these or the cloth from which to +make them cannot be readily obtained, closely +woven muslin will do.</p> + +<p>Should the canoeist desire to make his own +bags and should he not find it convenient to purchase +waterproofed canvas, the ordinary canvas +which he will use may be waterproofed by +the following process:</p> + +<p>In two gallons of boiling water dissolve three +and one-half ounces of alum. Rain water is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37" name="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> +best, though any soft water will do; but it +<i>must be soft water</i> to obtain the best results. +In another vessel dissolve four ounces of sugar +of lead in two gallons of soft water. Unite the +solutions when they have cleared by pouring +into another vessel No. 1 first, then No. 2. +Let the solution stand over night, decant it into +a tub, free of any sediment that may have +settled, and it is ready for the canvas. The +cloth should be put into the solution, thoroughly +saturated with it and then lightly +wrung out, and hung up to dry. This treatment +will render canvas to a considerable extent, +though not completely, waterproof.</p> + +<p>Muslin for the smaller food bags may be +waterproofed by painting it with a saturate solution +of turpentine and paraffin.</p> + +<p>Canned goods should be packed snugly in +canvas bags, with cans on end, that the sides, +not the corners or edges, will rest against the +back in portaging.</p> + +<p>Camp chests in which to store food or other +articles are carried by some canoeists, but they +add considerable weight to the outfit. The +best and most serviceable camp chest is one of +indestructible fiber. One with an inside measurement +of <span class="dimension">18 × 24 × 12</span> inches weighs twenty +pounds.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38" name="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VI" name="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a><br /><br /> +THE PORTAGE</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">There</span> are several types of pack harness +offered by outfitters, but it is generally +conceded that the best method of +carrying heavy or medium-weight packs is with +the tump line. In tump line carrying the pack +is supported by a broad band of leather passed +across the head—high up on the forehead—thus +throwing the weight upon the strong muscles +of the neck, with no shoulder straps or +other support.</p> + +<p>Canadian voyageurs, Hudson's Bay Company +packers and Indians use the tump line to +the exclusion of all shoulder-carrying devices. +Indeed, by no other method would it be possible +for them to transport upon their backs +through a rough country the heavy burdens +which they are called upon to carry. Experienced +packers with the tump line will sometimes +portage loads of upwards of four hundred +pounds. In tests of skill I have seen a +man carry in a single load the contents of three +barrels of flour—588 pounds.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39" name="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span></p> + +<p>The tump line consists of a broad piece of +leather some eighteen or twenty inches in +length (known as the head strap or headpiece), +with a leather thong usually about seven +feet in length attached to each end, the total +length from the tip end of one thong to the tip +end of the other thong averaging about sixteen +feet.</p> + +<p>Sometimes the two thongs are sewn to the +headpiece, and again the line is a single strip of +leather, broadened in the center to form the +headpiece. The best tump lines, however, have +the head strap as a separate piece with a buckle +at each end by which the thongs are attached. +This arrangement admits of adjustment, if +necessary, to suit the individual after the pack +has been made up.</p> + +<p>There is a knack in tump line carrying, but +the following directions for making up various +packs will give the novice sufficient insight, with +a little experience, to enable him to acquire the +art.</p> + +<p>When the pack is to be made up wholly of +bags, lay the tump line on the ground with the +thongs parallel to each other and from sixteen +to twenty inches apart, depending upon the +length of the bags to be packed. Place the +bags across the thongs, one bag upon another, +taking care that the thongs are not so near the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40" name="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> +ends of the bags as to render them liable to +slip off when the pack is tied. Now lift the +head strap above the top bag and secure the +pack by drawing the loose end of each thong +in turn tight around the bags and knotting it a +few inches below the buckle that attaches its +other end to the headpiece.</p> + +<p>When a pack cloth is to be used, spread the +pack cloth upon the thongs of the tump line, +stretched upon the ground in the manner above +described, and in the center of the pack cloth +lay folded blankets and other articles to be +packed, making the pile about two feet long, +and taking care that hard substances are in the +center, with blankets and soft things outside. +Now turn the sides of the pack cloth over the +pack and fold over the ends. If a bag is to be +included, lay it upon the pack after the cloth +has been folded, and secure the whole as in +the former case.</p> + +<p>Another method of making up a pack with +the pack cloth, common among Canadian voyageurs, +is as follows: Spread the cloth upon +the ground, and lay the tump line across it, the +headpiece near one end and the thongs a foot +from the sides. Fold the sides of the cloth inward +over each thong. Now build up the pack +in a neat pile about two feet long on the folded +cloth, taking care as before that hard things<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41" name="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> +are placed in the middle. Fold the end of the +pack cloth with protruding thongs over the +pack, take a half turn with the loose end of a +thong around the other end near the headpiece, +draw it tight until the end is closely puckered, +then knot it and draw up the other thong and +secure it in like manner. Now bring the free +ends of the tump line to center of pack, on top, +cross them and pass them around middle of +pack and tie.</p> + +<p>The knack of comfortable tump line carrying +once the neck muscles have become developed +and hardened to the work is in properly +balancing the pack. With the headpiece +resting high up upon the forehead the pack +should hang with its bottom no lower than the +hips. Neither should it be too high. A little +experimenting will teach just where the proper +balance is to be found. If it is too high, +lengthen the line, or if too low shorten it by +means of the buckles which attach the thongs +to the headpiece.</p> + +<p>Experienced packers pile additional bags or +bundles on top of the pack, the uppermost +bundle standing higher than the head. In my +own experience I have found that an additional +bag thus placed upon the pack and resting +against the back of my neck helped balance the +load. My favorite bag for this purpose is a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42" name="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> +forty or fifty pound bag of flour, sometimes +surmounted by a lighter bundle which rested +partly upon the flour and partly upon my head.</p> + +<p>The tenderfoot will be quite content to limit +his early loads to sixty or seventy pounds, and +even then his first portages will not be what he +can conscientiously term experiences of unalloyed +joy. Gradually, however, he will learn +the knack of tump packing and at the end of a +couple of weeks of daily experience will find +himself able to negotiate a load of one hundred +pounds with some ease.</p> + +<p>All the various types of pack harness are +supplied with straps by which the pack is secured +and loops through which to slip the arms, +the pack being carried from the shoulders instead +of the head. With this sort of a pack, +as with the tump line, care should be given to +the proper adjustment, with the bottom of the +pack no lower than the hips. Fifty pounds is +about as heavy a load as one can comfortably +carry from the shoulders.</p> + +<p>Outfitters sometimes attach a headpiece to +their pack harness—that is to say the harness +is provided with both shoulder loops and tump +line head strap. The object is to secure a division +of weight between shoulders and head. +This is a method employed by Eskimos when +hunting without dogs. The Eskimo hunter<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43" name="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> +binds his pack with sealskin thongs, and manipulates +a single thong in such a manner as not +only to secure the pack but to form arm loops +and headpiece as well.</p> + +<p>No matter what type of shoulder harness is +employed, a breast strap must be used to fasten +together the arm loops in front or the loops +will have a continual tendency to slip backward +and off the shoulders. This breast strap fastens +the packer so securely to his pack that should +he slip, as is sometimes likely, the pack will +carry him down with it and the probability of +injury is multiplied many times. This alone is +a very decided objection to all forms of pack +harness.</p> + +<p>If one slips with a tump line, on the contrary, +a slight twist of the head will disengage and +free one from the pack; and if one is hunting +the tump pack may readily be dropped at a moment's +notice, should game be sighted.</p> + +<p>Let me therefore urge the adoption of the +tump line for all portage work where fifty +pounds or more must be transported. No experienced +packer will use harness. Harness +packing is indeed indicative of the tenderfoot +who has never learned how, unless on long +cross country tramps with light loads.</p> + +<p>But on a canoe trip, if one would make progress, +big loads must be resorted to. For in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44" name="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>stance, +if the canoeist has a two mile portage to +negotiate and one hundred pounds of duffle he +has but two miles to walk if he carries all his +duffle at once, but if he makes two loads of it +he must walk six miles. With the hundred +pound load the portage may easily be covered +in one hour. With fifty pound loads three +hours will be consumed, for there will be time +lost in making up the second pack.</p> + +<p>Axes, guns and extra paddles may be thrust +under the thongs of the tump line, or carried +in the hand. Never portage a rifle with a cartridge +in the chamber, and never portage a +loaded shotgun. To disregard this advice will +be to take an unnecessary and foolhardy risk.</p> + +<p>Save in a rather stiff breeze, one man can +carry a canoe weighing less than one hundred +pounds nearly as easily as two can carry it. +There is one best way of doing everything, and +the best and most practical way to carry a canoe +is the Indian's way.</p> + +<p>Tie one end of a stout string or thong securely +to the middle thwart close to the gunwale, +and the other end to the same thwart +close to the opposite gunwale with the string +stretched taut from end to end of the thwart +and on top of it. Slip the blades of two paddles, +lying side by side, under the string, the +paddle handles lying on the forward thwart.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45" name="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> +With the handles as close together as they will +lie, bind them with a piece of rope or thong to +the center of the forward thwart.</p> + +<p>Spread the blades upon the middle thwart +sufficiently wide apart to admit your head between +them. Take a position on the left side +of the canoe facing the stern. Just forward of +the middle thwart grasp the gunwale on the opposite +or right side of the canoe in your left +hand and the gunwale on the near or left side +in your right hand, and, lifting the canoe over +your head, let the flat side of the paddles directly +forward of the middle thwart rest upon +the shoulders, your head between them. It will +be found that though you faced the stern in +lifting the canoe you are now facing the bow, +and with the bow slightly elevated the canoe +can be carried with ease and a view of the trail +ahead will not be shut out.</p> + +<p>Should the flat paddle blades resting upon +the shoulders be found uncomfortable, as they +doubtless will at the end of the first two or +three hundred yards, a Pontiac shirt or sweater +will serve as a protecting pad.</p> + +<p>Outfitters offer for sale yokes, pneumatic +pads and contrivances of various sorts as protections +for the shoulders, but these contrivances +elevate the canoe from two to four inches +above the shoulders and this increases the diffi<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46" name="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>culty +of steadying it on rough trail. The +sweater or Pontiac shirt eases the cutting effect +of the paddles just as well as any of the special +portaging pads, and the canoe can be handled +more easily with it. Besides it makes one less +thing to look after.</p> + +<p>In a strong breeze it is often difficult for one +man to handle a canoe, for the wind striking it +on the side will turn the portager around and +he will find it impossible to keep his course in +spite of his best efforts. If the portage is a +short one—two or three hundred yards—the +canoe may be carried very well, one man with +the bow the other with the stern upon a +shoulder, the canoe on its side with the bottom +next the portagers' heads, that they may easily +grasp the gunwale in one hand and steady the +canoe with the other.</p> + +<p>This position will soon be found exceedingly +tiresome, and on portages exceeding two or +three hundred yards the paddles should be arranged +with the blades on the after thwart and +the handles lashed to the center of the middle +thwart. With this arrangement one man carries +exactly as when portaging the canoe alone, +save that he stands under the canoe just forward +of the after thwart instead of the middle +thwart, while the other man carries the bow<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47" name="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> +upon one shoulder. This is the easiest method +of two-man portaging of which I know.</p> + +<p>Many odds and ends may be tucked in the +canoe on the portage—fishing rods, for example, +in cases, with one end stuck in the bow +and the other end tied to the forward thwart.</p> + +<p>Should a canvas canoe become punctured it +may be repaired by one of the following +methods:</p> + +<p>If a stick of canoe cement is in the outfit, +heat the cement with a match and smear it +over the puncture.</p> + +<p>Should the outfit contain a canoe repair kit, +cut a patch of canvas somewhat larger than the +puncture, apply a coat of white lead to the +puncture and over a marginal space as large +as the canvas patch, press the patch firmly and +evenly upon the white lead and tack it down +with copper tacks. To this apply calor, and +when dry complete the repairs with a coat of +varnish.</p> + +<p>Should marine glue be used, lay a sheet of it +over the puncture, heat the bottom of a cup or +some other smooth metal utensil and rub it +over the glue until the glue melts sufficiently to +fill the puncture.</p> + +<p>In a region where spruce gum can be had, +melt a quantity of gum in a frying pan with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48" name="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> +sufficient grease to take from the gum its brittle +quality when cold. While hot pour the +gum upon the rupture, letting it run well into +the opening and smearing it smoothly over the +outside.</p> + +<p>"Peterborough" canoes are also easily repaired +with marine glue or gum.</p> + +<p>In loading the canoe place the heavier bags +in the bottom and middle of the canoe, taking +care so to distribute the weight that when fully +loaded the canoe will lie on an even keel. +Keep the load always as low down as possible. +Every bag rising above the gunwales offers resistance +to the wind, and tends to make the +load topheavy. When but one man occupies a +canoe, however, sufficient weight should be carried +forward to counterbalance his weight in +the stern.</p> + +<p>Lash everything fast, particularly in rough +water or when running rapids. It does not pay +to take chances. With a companion I was once +turned over in a rapid in an unexplored, +sparsely timbered wilderness several hundred +miles from the nearest base of supplies—a +Hudson's Bay trading post. Nearly all our +food was lost, as well as guns, axes, cooking +utensils and many other necessities of travel. +The temperature stood close to zero, snow covered +the ground and during the greater part of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49" name="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +the three weeks occupied in reaching the post +we had to dig driftwood from under the snow, +and our ingenuity was taxed at times to the +utmost in efforts to protect ourselves from the +elements and travel with any degree of comfort. +Nothing worse than an unpleasant ducking +in icy waters would have resulted from our +accident had we observed the rule of ordinary +caution and lashed our outfit to the thwarts.</p> + +<p>One end of a rope tied to the forward +thwart, the other end threaded through bag +handles or pack lashings and secured to the after +thwart, will do the trick. A short strap, +one end attached to a thwart, the other end supplied +with a snap to fasten on rifle or shotgun +cases, is a good way to secure the guns and +still have them readily accessible.</p> + +<p>If you would make speed be smart in unloading +the canoe and making up your packs +on the portage, and equally smart in reloading +the canoe. Delays in loading, unloading and +making up packs are the chief causes of slow +progress.</p> + +<p>When it is found necessary to "track," give +the rear end of the tracking line a turn around +the forward thwart, on the land side of the +canoe, then pass the end back and secure it to +the middle thwart. This distributes the strain +between the thwarts. While one man at the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50" name="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> +farther end of the line tows the canoe, the +other man with a pole may walk upon the bank, +and keep the canoe clear of snags, if the water +is deep. Should the water be shallow it will +usually be found necessary for him to wade +and guide the bow through open channels.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51" name="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VII" name="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</a><br /><br /> +TRAVEL WITH SADDLE AND PACK ANIMALS</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">Under</span> this head we shall consider: (1) +Saddles and pack equipment; (2) +Animals best adapted to pack work; +(3) Outfit and provisions and how to pack them; +(4) How to throw some practical hitches; (5) +Equipment of the traveler who has no pack +animal and whose saddle horse is required to +transport both rider and equipment.</p> + +<p>Comfort on the trail depends to a very large +degree upon the animals of the outfit. A mean +horse is an abomination, and a horse may be +mean in many respects. A bucking horse, a +horse that shies at stumps and other objects or +at every moving thing, or one that is frightened +by sudden and unexpected sounds is not only +an uncomfortable but unsafe animal to ride +upon rugged mountain trails; and a horse that +will not stand without hitching, or one that is +hard to catch when hobbled and turned loose, +will cause no end of trouble.</p> + +<p>In choosing a horse, then, avoid so far as +possible one with these tendencies, and also ob<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52" name="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>serve +the manner in which he handles his feet. +He should not be subject to stumbling. He +should be sure-footed, steady and reliable, to +qualify him for work on dangerous trails; this +is of the first importance. A horse that does +not keep his eyes on the trail and select his +footing with care is wholly unsuited to mountain +work. He should be gunwise. A gunwise +horse will not be easily frightened by sudden +and unexpected noises.</p> + +<p>Whether intended for mountain or plains +work, the horse should be a good camp animal—that +is, one that will not wander far from +camp. It is more than aggravating to find upon +arising in the morning that your horse has disappeared +and one always feels that time consumed +in searching for a roving horse is time +worse than wasted. Of course this tendency of +an animal can be forestalled by picketing him, +but a picketed horse unless forage be particularly +good will not do well, for it rarely happens +in these days of sheep-ravaged ranges that +an animal can find sufficient food to meet his requirements +within the limited length of a +picket rope.</p> + +<p>Some horses need much persuasion before +they can be induced to ford streams, and I have +had them lose their nerve and decline the descent +of precipitous trails. An animal possess<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53" name="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>ing +this trait of timidity is not suited to trail +work, for he is likely to cause trouble at a critical +moment.</p> + +<p>Some horses are good foragers, others are +not. A poor forager will become leg weary +and break down much more quickly than the +animal that takes advantage of every opportunity +to graze or browse. A horse just in +from the open range should be round and full-bellied. +This is an indication that he is a good +feeder. Generally speaking the chunky horse +is the one best adapted to arduous trail work +because he usually possesses greater powers of +endurance than the longer, lankier type.</p> + +<p>All of the qualifications above enumerated +should be borne in mind in selecting animals, +whether for saddle or pack use. And of course +the animals should be as sound as possible. +One should never start upon a journey with an +animal that is lame or has cinch sores or galled +back.</p> + +<p>When mountain trails are to be negotiated +a saddle horse weighing from nine hundred to +a thousand pounds will be found better adapted +to the work than a larger animal. Too large a +horse is liable to be clumsy on the trail, while +too light a horse will of course tire under a +heavy rider. A small horse, as a rule, is better +able to forage a living than a large horse, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54" name="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> +for this reason stands up better with a moderate +load on long, continuous journeys. Ponies +weighing from eight hundred to eight hundred +and fifty pounds will pack one hundred and +fifty pounds easily, and ponies of this size make +much better pack animals than larger ones.</p> + +<p>While for general saddle work I prefer a +horse, a mule is surer footed and therefore +preferable on precipitous, narrow mountain +trails. In the Sierra Madres of Mexico I rode +a mule over trails where I would scarcely have +trusted a horse. Good saddle mules, however, +are scarce. I never saw a really good saddle-broke +mule north of Mexico, though they are +doubtless to be had. Mules have greater +powers of endurance than horses, and for many +other reasons are superior as pack animals. +The chief objection to a mule is his timidity +upon marshy trails. His feet are much smaller +than those of a horse, he mires easily, and he is +fully aware of the fact. A good mule, nevertheless, +is the one best all-around pack animal.</p> + +<p>Burros are good where forage is scarce, but +they are slow. When the burro decides that he +has done a day's work he stops, and that is the +end of it. He will not consult you, and he will +not take your advice. When he fully decides +that he will go no farther you may as well unpack +and make camp with as good grace as<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55" name="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> +you can muster, and keep your temper. I believe +that burros have a well-organized labor +union and they will not do one stroke of work +beyond the limit prescribed by their organization. +But one must sometimes resort to them +in desert travel. They will pick their living and +thrive on sage brush wastes where other animals +would die, and their ability to go long +without water is truly remarkable. On rough +mountain trails they are even more sure-footed +if possible than mules, but like the mule it is +difficult to force them over marshes or into +rivers when fording is necessary.</p> + +<p>In horse-raising localities in the West very +good horses can be had at anywhere from +thirty to seventy-five dollars. The usual rate +for horse rental is one dollar to one dollar and +a half a day, and it is therefore cheaper, when +the journey is to extend to a month or more, to +purchase the animals outright and sell them +when you are finished with them for what they +will bring. Rented animals are generally animals +of low value and sometimes not very +efficient, and in the course of a month one pays +in rental a good share of the value of the horse. +The risk is no greater, for if a rented horse is +injured while in a traveler's possession, the +owner holds him who has rented the animal responsible +for the damage.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56" name="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VIII" name="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a><br /><br /> +SADDLE AND PACK EQUIPMENT</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">The</span> riding saddle should be a double +cinch, horn saddle, with wool-lined +skirts and of ample weight to hold its +position. My own is a regular stock saddle +weighing thirty-five pounds, though for all ordinary +use a twenty-five- or thirty-pound saddle +will do just as well.</p> + +<p>I prescribe the horn saddle because of its +convenience. One may sling upon it a camera, +binoculars or other articles in frequent demand, +and when it becomes necessary to lead a pack +pony the lead rope may be attached to it. For +this latter purpose the horn is indeed indispensable.</p> + +<p>In the light of personal experience with both +single and double cinch saddles, I recommend +the latter unhesitatingly, particularly for mountain +work. In steep ascents or descents it will +not slide, while a single cinch saddle is certain +to do so no matter how tightly cinched, and this +shifting will sooner or later gall the horse's<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57" name="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> +back. In Mexico the single cinch saddle is almost +universally used, but who ever saw a +Mexican's horse that was free from saddle +sores? The forward cinch should preferably +be a hair cinch, though the ordinary webbed +sort, both forward and rear, does well enough.</p> + +<p>The saddle blanket should be a thick, good +quality wool blanket. In Arizona Navajo saddle +blankets are popular, and they are undoubtedly +the best when obtainable. A hair +saddle pad or corona, shaped to the animal's +back and used in connection with the blanket, is +a pretty good insurance against galling, and +preferable to the felt pad, for it is cooler.</p> + +<p>A leather boot for rifle, and saddle bags for +toilet articles, note books and odds and ends, +bridle, halter rope, a pair of cowboy spurs with +large blunt rowels, and a quirt to tickle delinquent +pack horses will be needed. The rifle +boot has two sling straps. The usual method +of carrying it is to insert it between the stirrup +leathers on the near side, drop the sling strap +at the top of the boot over the saddle pommel +and buckle the sling strap at the bottom of the +boot into the rear latigo ring. By detaching +the latter sling from the boot before buckling +it to the ring, the boot may be removed from +or attached to the saddle by simply lifting the +forward sling strap over the pommel, without<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58" name="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> +unbuckling. In case the sling strap at the top +of the boot be placed too far down, it should +be shifted higher up and secured to the boot +with a leather loop which may be riveted to the +boot.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter illustration" id="i58"> + <img src="images/058.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Method of Slinging Load on Aparejo</span> + </p> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span>) Rope is doubled + and loop A thrown over + horse's back to off side.</p> + <p> + N. B.—In this and the + following diagrams the pack + is represented as spread out + flat and viewed from above. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>For the pack animals the ordinary cross-tree +or sawbuck pack saddle +is the most practical +pack saddle for all-around +use, though the +aparejo, used by the +army and generally +throughout Mexico, is +superior to the sawbuck +when unwieldy +packages of irregular +size and shape are to +be transported. Such +packages must frequently +be transported by +army trains and they +are the rule rather +than the exception in +Mexico, where freighting +throughout wide +regions must be done +wholly on the backs of +animals.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59" name="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/059.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span>) Packs are now lifted into + place and off packer brings loop A up + around off side pack to top of load. + Near packer passes end B through loop + A and ties ends B and C together with + square knot. Balance or "break" the + packs and load is ready for hitch. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>The aparejo is of Arabian origin, and the +Spaniards, who adopted it from the Moors, introduced +it into Mexico. In Mexico there are +two types of the aparejo in common use. One +made usually of the fiber of <i>henequen</i>, which is +woven into pockets which are stuffed with +grass, to form the pads, is used on donkeys in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60" name="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> +comparatively light packing; in the other type +the pad casing is made of Mexican tanned +leather instead of <i>henequen</i> matting but also +stuffed with grass. This is used in heavier +packing with mules, in transporting machinery +and supplies to mines and merchandise to inland +settlements.</p> + +<p>The cross-tree or sawbuck, however, is used +almost exclusively in the United States by forest +rangers, cowboys, prospectors and pack +travelers generally, and it is to this type of +pack saddle that we shall direct our attention +chiefly. It may be interesting to note that this +is a very ancient type of pack saddle, of Asiatic +origin. It consists of two saddle boards +connected near each end—front and rear—by +two cross-pieces, the pommel and cantle forming +a miniature sawbuck, while the saddle +boards are similar in shape to the McClellan +saddle tree. This is fitted with breeching, quarter +straps, breast strap, latigos and cinch. As +in the case of the riding saddle, the sawbuck +pack saddle should be supplied with the double +cinch. Care should be taken that the saddle +fits the animal for which intended. A saddle +either too wide or too narrow will be certain to +cause a sore back.</p> + +<p>Each pack saddle should be accompanied by +a heavy woolen saddle blanket, which should be<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61" name="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> +folded into three or four thicknesses, for here +even greater protection is necessary than with +the riding saddle, for the animal is to carry a +dead weight.</p> + +<p>The preferable method of carrying supplies +with the sawbuck pack saddle is with kyacks, +basket panniers or the <i>alforjas</i>, though with +sling and lash ropes any sort of a bundle may +be slung upon it.</p> + +<p>When they can be obtained, kyacks of indestructible +fiber stand first for preference. +These are usually from twenty-two to twenty-four +inches wide, seventeen or eighteen inches +high and about nine inches deep, and are fitted +with heavy leather loops for slinging on the +saddle. Unless the horse is a large one, the +narrower, or twenty-two inch, should be selected.</p> + +<p>Basket panniers of similar size are lighter +but not so well adapted to hard usage, and are +more expensive.</p> + +<p>The alforjas is constructed of heavy duck +and leather, and of the same dimensions as the +kyack. They are much cheaper than either +panniers or kyacks, and are therefore more +commonly used. Any outfitter can supply them. +They are slung upon the saddle in the same +manner as kyacks. A pair of the type decided +upon will be required for each animal.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62" name="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></p> + +<p>The next requirement is a half-inch lash +rope. This should be at least thirty-three, but +preferably forty feet in length. In some respects +a cotton rope is preferable to one of +hemp, though the latter is more commonly +used, and regulations prescribe it for army +pack trains.</p> + +<p>A good broad cinch should be provided, +fitted with a ring on one end to which is attached +the lash or lair rope and a cinch hook on +the other end.</p> + +<p>There should be a pair of hobbles for each +animal, and a blind to put upon obstreperous +pack animals when slinging and lashing the +load. These may be purchased throughout the +West at almost any village store. It is well +also to carry a bell, which should always be +strapped around the neck of one of the horses +when the animals are hobbled and turned loose +to graze.</p> + +<p>It will sometimes be necessary to picket one +of the animals, and for this purpose fifty or +sixty feet of half or five-eighth inch rope will +be required. Also sufficient leading rope should +be provided for each pack animal, and a halter +rope for the saddle horse. A lariat carried +upon the saddle pommel will be found useful in +a dozen ways, and may be utilized for picketing +horses.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63" name="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p> + +<p>All horses should be "slick" shod; that is, +shod with uncalked shoes. The shoes should +be of soft iron, not so light as to render them +liable to bend before they are worn out, and +they should not extend beyond the hoof at side +or rear. Some extra shoes of proper size for +each animal, a horseshoer's nippers, rasp, +hammer and some nails should be included in +the equipment.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64" name="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_IX" name="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</a><br /><br /> +PERSONAL OUTFIT FOR THE SADDLE</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">The</span> outfit recommended in Chapters <a href="#CHAPTER_III" title="Camp Equipment for the Canoe Trip">III</a> +and <a href="#CHAPTER_IV" title="Personal Equipment">IV</a> in discussing camp and personal +equipment for canoe trips is, with the +modifications and additions which we shall now +consider, equally well adapted to saddle and +pack horse travel. As previously stated, our +object is to describe methods of packing, rather +than to formulate an infallible check list. With +this in view an efficient outfit that may be +easily packed and transported is outlined, in a +general way, and therefore such articles of outfit +mentioned in previous chapters as are obviously +useful only in canoe travel will not be +referred to in this connection.</p> + +<p>The wedge, the Hudson Bay, the forest +ranger and the lean-to tent are all good models +for pack animal travel, and easily erected. +Whichever type is chosen, if made of any one +of the light-weight materials described, will be +found both satisfactory and easily packed. For +example, a forest ranger's tent eight feet deep<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65" name="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> +and eight feet wide weighs less than four +pounds, while a lean-to with approximately the +same floor space weighs about three pounds. In +the more arid regions of the West one rarely +finds it necessary to pitch a tent, though it is +handy to have one along and well worth carrying, +particularly should it be desired to remain +more than one night at any point.</p> + +<p>During the summer, save in high altitudes, +one pair of light woolen blankets will be found +ample bedding. For all probable conditions +of weather, however, in tent or in the open, +the sleeping bag is the most convenient and at +the same time the most comfortable camp bed +yet devised, and it is so easily carried on the +pack horse that I advise its adoption. One +made of close-woven waterproofed canvas is +the most thoroughly practical bag for general +use. This should be lined with two pairs of +light blankets, that four thicknesses of blanket +may be available for covering. The blankets +should be so arranged that they may be taken +out and the bag turned for airing. One may +adapt such a bag to the temperature, using as +many or as few thicknesses of blanket as desired, +depending upon the number with which +the bag is lined. I recently saw a bag lined +with four thicknesses of llama wool duffel +(providing two thicknesses for cover) that<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66" name="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> +weighed but eight pounds and furnished ample +protection for any weather down to a zero +temperature.</p> + +<p>Pack cloths or light tarpaulins <span class="dimension">6 × 7</span> feet, +used to cover and protect the packs, will be +needed for each pack animal, and at night the +bed may be spread upon them. Saddle bags +make excellent pillows.</p> + +<p>In traveling in an arid region canteens are a +necessity. There should be one large one for +each traveler to be carried on the pack horse, +and a small one swung upon the saddle horn +will be found convenient for ready use.</p> + +<p>A folding water bucket of waterproofed +canvas should also be included in the outfit.</p> + +<p>The aluminum reflecting baker which has +been described is far preferable to the Dutch +oven—a heavy iron kettle with iron cover—not +only because it weighs far less and is much +more easily packed, but because it is more practical. +Westerners are wedded to the Dutch +oven, and this reference is merely made as a +suggestion in case the question of choice between +the two should arise.</p> + +<p>If kyacks or alforjas are used the large +water-proofed canvas duffle bags and food bags +will not be required. The smaller balloon silk +or musline food bags, however, will be found +fully as convenient in packing in the pack horse<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67" name="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> +kyack as in the canvas bags on the canoe trip.</p> + +<p>Each rider should be provided with either +a saddle slicker or a poncho, which when not +in use may be rolled and secured to the saddle +directly behind the seat by means of tie strings +attached to the saddle. A poncho is preferable +to a slicker, because of the many uses to +which it may be put.</p> + +<p>On saddle journeys in cold, windy weather +a wind-proof canvas coat or a large, roomy +buckskin shirt is a comfort. If a buckskin +shirt is adapted, have it made plain without +fringe or frill. Wilderness dwellers formerly +fringed their buckskin shirts, not alone for +ornament, but to facilitate the drying of the +garment when wet. In the fringed shirt water, +instead of settling around the bottom of the +shirt, around the yoke and the seams of the +sleeve, will drain to the fringe which the wind +quickly dries. In our case, however, the poncho +will protect the shirt from a wetting.</p> + +<p>In summer, in an arid or desert region of +the Southwest, athletic summer underwear will +be found entirely satisfactory. Whether this +or light wool is to be worn, however, will +depend entirely upon the season and the region +to be visited.</p> + +<p>In very warm weather a close-woven, good +quality khaki outer shirt is both comfortable<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68" name="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> +and practical; but on chilly autumn days a flannel +shirt should take its place—gray, brown, +blue—the color does not matter so long as it +does not crock. It is my custom to have one +khaki and one flannel shirt in my outfit.</p> + +<p>Trousers should be of heavy khaki, medium +weight moleskin, or other strong close-woven +material. Full-length trousers, with reinforced +seat, are preferable in some respects to riding +breeches, and may be worn with the regulation +United States cavalry puttee leggings with +shoes.</p> + +<p>Some riders prefer top boots, such as Arizona +cowboys wear, and but for their high +heels which make walking uncomfortable they +would be admirable. High-laced, medium-weight +mountaineering shoes will eliminate the +necessity of puttees, and many prefer them to +low-laced shoes and puttees. In snowy, cold +weather I have found heavy German socks and +ordinary shoes, large enough to avoid the possibility +of pinching the feet, admirable footwear +for the saddle. But whatever is decided +upon, extra trousers, extra leggings and extra +shoes are superfluous. One pair of each—the +pair worn—is sufficient.</p> + +<p>The hat should be of the Western style, with +broad brim, and of the best grade. The brims +of the cheaper ones are sure to sag after a lit<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69" name="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>tle +wear and exposure to a shower or two. A +good reliable hat may be had for five dollars +that will stand several years of hard wear and +may be renovated when soiled, assuming again +the freshness of a new hat. I have one for +which I paid fourteen pesos in Monterey, Mexico, +in 1907. I have worn It pretty steadily +since in camp and on the trail. It has been +twice renovated, and to-day so nearly resembles +a new hat that I am not ashamed to wear +it about town.</p> + +<p>Heavy gauntlet buckskin gloves are a necessary +protection, not only against cold in frosty +weather, but against brush in summer. The +regulation United States cavalry glove is the +best that I have discovered for all-around hard +usage, and will not harden after a wetting.</p> + +<p>The saddle rifle should be short and light—not +over twenty-four-inch barrel, and not above +seven pounds in weight. A revolver is never +needed, though for target practice one offers +a means of amusement.</p> + +<p>Unless going into permanent camp or into +an isolated region, it will hardly be found necessary +to start out with more than one week's +provisions. Before these are consumed settlements +will be reached, where fresh supplies +may be purchased. It is well to have along a +few cans of baked beans and corned or roast<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70" name="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> +beef, that a hasty meal may be prepared when +time does not allow a sufficient halt to permit +the preparation of uncooked foods. Two or +three dozen lemons should also be provided, +particularly in summer, and in more or less +arid regions.</p> + +<p>Provisions and general outfit should be +neatly packed in small bags, and evenly distributed +in the kyacks.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71" name="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_X" name="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</a><br /><br /> +ADJUSTING THE PACK</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">In</span> saddling up, be sure that the saddle +blanket is folded large enough to protect +the horse's sides from the pack, when the +pack is slung into place. Otherwise the kyacks +or alforjas will be liable with constant chafing +when the horse is in motion to cause sores. Not +only where the saddle rests upon the blanket +but where the pack rests upon the horse's sides +there should be sufficient thicknesses of blanket +to overcome friction, and this demands a +greater thickness than under the riding saddle, +for the pack load is a dead load. After the +pack saddle is thrown into place, and before +cinching it, ease the blanket by pulling it up +slightly under the center of the saddle—along +the backbone of the animal. This will overcome +the tendency of the blanket to draw down +and bind the horse's back too tightly when the +saddle is cinched and the pack in place.</p> + +<p>When packing the kyacks or alforjas particular +care should be taken to have the pair<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72" name="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> +for each horse evenly balanced as to weight. +If the load swung on one side of the horse is +heavier than that on the opposite side, there +will be a continual drawing down of the pack +saddle on the heavier side, resulting almost +certainly in injury to the animal. Inattention +or willful carelessness on the part of packers in +balancing the pack is five times out of six the +cause which leads to sore-backed pack animals.</p> + +<p>If two or more pack animals are used, let +such provisions and utensils as are in constant +use and will be needed at once by the cook, be +packed on one animal. Hobbles and bell +should also be carried on this animal. This +will be the first animal unpacked, and while the +other animals are being unpacked the cook may +get busy, and the packer will have hobbles and +bell at hand to immediately attach to the animals.</p> + +<p>Attached to each end of the kyacks and +alforjas is a leathern loop or sling strap. By +means of these loops kyacks and alforjas are +hung to the saddle, one loop fitting over the +forward, the other over the rear cruz, or fork. +The kyacks should be so adjusted as to hang +evenly one with the other. That is to say, one +kyack should hang no lower upon the animal's +side than the other, and both should hang as +high as possible.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73" name="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span></p> + +<p>The kyacks in place, hobbles, bell, and such +odds and ends as it may not be convenient to +pack in the kyack, may be laid on the center +between the crosstrees and on top of the kyack, +and over all smoothly folded blankets, sleeping +bags, or tent, care being exercised to keep the +pack as low and smooth as possible. Everything +carefully placed and adjusted, cover the +pack with the pack cloth or tarpaulin, folded to +proper size to protect the whole pack, but with +no loose ends extending beyond it to catch upon +brush or other obstructions. If inconvenient +to include within the pack, the cooking outfit +in its canvas case may be lashed to the top +of pack after the final hitch has been tied. +All is ready now for the hitch that is to bind +the pack into place.</p> + +<p>Frequently the traveler is not provided with +either kyacks or alforjas, and it becomes necessary +to pack the load without the convenience +of these receptacles. Before considering the +hitches, therefore, let us describe methods of +slinging the load in such cases upon the crosstree +saddle.</p> + +<p>The load which is to be slung from the +crosstree should be arranged in two compact +packages of equal weight, one for each side of +the animal. Boxes may be used, but large, +strong sacks are preferable. The large can<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_74" name="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>vas +duffle bags, described in the chapter on +canoe outfitting, are well adapted to the purpose.</p> + +<div class="figcenter illustration" id="i74"> + <img src="images/074.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Sling for Packing on Crosstree Saddle</span> + </p> + <p>A is forward cruz, B rear cruz of saddle. CC are loops + which support packages. D and E are ends or hauling + parts of rope.</p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>Take the sling rope, and, standing on the +near side, throw one end over the horse's neck +just forward of the saddle. Now at about +the middle of the rope form two half hitches, +or a clove hitch, on the forward cruz or fork +of the saddle.</p> + +<p>With the free end of the rope on the near +side form a half hitch on the rear cruz, allowing +sufficient loop between the forward and +rear cruz to receive the side pack, with the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75" name="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> +free end of the rope falling under the loop. +Now go to the off side and arrange the rope +on that side in similar manner.</p> + +<p>Lift the offside pack into position with its +forward end even with the forward fork, lifting +the pack well up to the forks. Hold the +pack in position with the palm of the right hand +against the center of the pack, and with the left +hand pass the loop along the lower side of the +pack, drawing in the slack with the free end +of the rope, which passes around the rear fork +and under the center of the pack. With the +pack drawn snugly in position, take a turn +with the free end of the rope around the rope +along the side of the pack. This will hold +the pack in position. Tie a bowline knot in +the end of rope, and at proper length for the +bowline loop to reach the center and top of +pack. Place loop where it may be easily +reached from the near side.</p> + +<p>Now pass to the near side and sling the near +pack in exactly similar manner, save that no +bowline knot is to be formed. Reach up and +slip the end of the near rope, which you are +holding, through the bowline loop, draw tight +and tie.</p> + +<p>The following is another method of slinging +packs, frequently used by forest rangers:</p> + +<p>Throw the rope across the horse directly in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76" name="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> +front of the saddle, and as in the previous +method form two half hitches with the rope +at its middle on the front fork, but in this case +permitting the ends to lie on the ground on +either side the horse. Place the near pack in +position and against the lower rope, and holding +it with one hand, bring the rope up and +over the pack with the other hand and throw +a half hitch around the forward fork, keeping +the free end of the rope under. Draw the +rope taut, lifting the pack well up. Pass the +running rope back and throw a half hitch +around the rear fork, the loose or running end +of the rope on the under side, as when forming +the half hitch on the front fork. Now +pass the running rope from under over the +pack at the rear, throw a half hitch over the +rear fork, take up all slack, bring the loose +end under and around the two ropes at their +intersection between pack and rear fork, and +tie securely. The pack on off side is slung in +similar manner.</p> + +<p>Most mules, and not infrequently horses as +well, have a constitutional dislike to receiving +the pack. If your pack animal displays any +such tendency adjust the blind over his eyes +and let it remain there until the hitch is thrown +and the load tightened and secured. The blind +is usually an effective quieter.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77" name="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XI" name="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</a><br /><br /> +SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">Whether</span> the load is made up with +kyacks, alforjas, or separate packs +slung to the crosstree saddle as described +in the preceding chapter it must be secured +in place. For this purpose various +hitches are employed by packers, each hitch +well adapted to the particular conditions which +evolved it.</p> + +<p>Our description will be confined to the following +six hitches, which furnish ample variety +to suit the exigencies of ordinary circumstances:</p> + +<p>(1) The crosstree or squaw hitch, which +is the father of all hitches because from it the +diamond, the double diamond and all pack-train +hitches in present-day use were evolved.</p> + +<p>(2) A diamond hitch, adapted to the crosstree +pack saddle. This is a form of single +diamond.</p> + +<p>(3) The United States army diamond particularly +adapted for use with the aparejo. The +true double diamond is a hitch rarely called for<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_78" name="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> +save in army work or freighting pack trains, +and will therefore be omitted. There are several +so-called double diamonds that might be +described, but these near-double diamonds possess +little or no advantage over the single diamond, +and we shall pass them over as they are +scarcely resorted to in ordinary pack work.</p> + +<p>(4) The one-man or lifting hitch.</p> + +<p>(5) The stirrup hitch, to be used when the +packer has rope but no cinch.</p> + +<p>(6) The saddle hitch, employed in slinging +loads upon an ordinary riding saddle.</p> + +<p>(7) The hitch for packing a sick or injured +man.</p> + +<h3>THE CROSSTREE HITCH</h3> + +<p>This hitch was introduced into the Northwest +by the early fur traders and adopted by +the Indians. Among Indians, women are the +laborers, and the crosstree hitch being the hitch +almost exclusively employed by the squaws was +presently dubbed by white men the "squaw +hitch." It is a hitch very generally used by +prospectors, and for this reason is known in +some localities as the "prospector's hitch." +In other sections of the West, where sheep +herders commonly use it, it is locally called +the "sheep herder's hitch." It is a hitch<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_79" name="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> +easily thrown by one man, holds well, and is +therefore a favorite.</p> + +<div class="figcenter illustration" id="i79"> + <img src="images/079a.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Squaw or Crosstree Hitch</span> + </p> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span>) Rope engaged on cinch hook and bight of rope + running from rear forward under standing rope. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/079b.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span>) Loop of bight enlarged, reversed and passed + around bottom and lower corners of off side pack. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/080.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span>) Hitch formed and ready to tighten. 1. Standing + rope. 2. Running rope. 3. Rear rope—off side. 4. + Front rope—off side. 5. Front rope—near side. 6. Rear + rope—near side. 7. Marker. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>With lash rope attached to cinch, take a +position on the near side of the animal facing +the pack. Throw the cinch over the top and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_80" name="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> +center of pack in such manner as to be easily +reached under the horse's belly. Pick up cinch +and engage the rope from in out upon the +hook. Draw up slack, taking care that the +cinch rests properly upon the horse's belly. +Grasp the running and standing rope in left +hand above the hook, to hold slack, and with +the right hand double the running rope and +thrust the doubled portion under the standing +rope from rear forward in a bight, at top of +pack. Enlarge the loop of the bight by drawing +through enough slack rope to make the loop +of sufficient size to be passed over and around +the off side kyack or pack. Step to off side, +turn loop over, and engage it around the ends +and bottom of kyack, from front to rear. Re<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_81" name="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>turn +to near side, and pass the loose end of +running rope around the forward end, bottom +and finally rear end of kyack. Draw the rope +end, from above down, over and under the +standing rear and running ropes, at the top and +center of the load, and the hitch is ready to +tighten.</p> + +<p>To tighten the hitch, grasp the running rope +a little above the cinch hook, and pull with all +your strength, taking up every inch of slack +possible. Retain this slack by holding the +standing and running rope together with left +hand, while with the right hand you reach to +top of load and pull up slack where running +rope passes under standing rope. Go to off +side and draw in all slack, following the rope +around off side pack. Retaining slack, return +to near side, and still following rope and taking +up slack around front to rear of near side +pack, grasp end of rope, already engaged as +directed over and under standing rear and +running rope, pull hard, bracing a foot against +pack, and tie. Two men, one on each side of +the horse, can, of course, throw the hitch and +tighten the load much more quickly than one. +Tightening the load is just as important a feature +of packing as evenly balancing the packs. +The result of an improperly tightened load +will pretty certainly be a sore-backed horse.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_82" name="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p> + +<h3>THE CROSSTREE DIAMOND HITCH</h3> + +<div class="figcenter illustration" id="i82"> + <img src="images/082.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span>) A turn is here taken around standing rope + with loop of bight of running rope thrust under standing + rope from rear to front, as in <a href="#i79">Fig. 1</a>, illustrating Squaw + Hitch. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>Take position on the near side of horse, as +when forming the crosstree hitch, and throw +cinch over horse, engaging it on hook and adjusting +it in exactly similar manner. Take in +slack and retain it by grasping the standing +and running ropes in left hand. Double running +rope and thrust doubled portion under +standing rope in a bight, from rear forward +at top and center of load. Take up all slack. +Enlarge loop of bight by drawing through +enough running rope to form a diamond of +sufficient size to hold top of load. Now bring +center of loop over and under standing rope, +from rear forward, thus giving rope at each<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_83" name="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> +side of loop a complete turn around standing +rope. Throw the disengaged portion of running +rope to off side of horse, and passing to +the off side, bringing the rope down along rear, +bottom, and up front of kyack, thrust loose +rope end up through loop at top of pack. +Take in slack and return to near side of horse. +Engage running rope around front, bottom and +rear end of near side kyack or pack, and thrust +rope end over and under standing rope opposite +center of loop. Take up slack and load in +ready to tighten.</p> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/083.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Crosstree Diamond Hitch</span> + </p> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span>) Hitch formed ready to tighten. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>Tighten load by grasping running rope above +hook and drawing as tight as possible. Hold +slack with left hand, gripping running and +standing rope, and take up slack at loop with +right hand. Pass to off side and take up slack<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_84" name="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> +and tighten rear to front around kyack. Pass +to near side, tightening front to rear; finally, +bracing a foot against the load pull on loose +end, and retaining all slack make final tie.</p> + +<p>The above described "diamond" hitch is +not the true diamond employed by government +pack trains where the aparejo is used, but it is +a diamond evolved from the crosstree hitch, +and is particularly well adapted to the crosstree +or sawbuck pack saddle, is easily formed, +and holds the load securely, which is the ultimate +object of all hitches.</p> + +<h3>THE UNITED STATES ARMY DIAMOND HITCH</h3> + +<p>The single diamond hitch employed by army +packers is the ideal hitch for securing a load +upon an aparejo. This is a two-man hitch, +though an expert can throw it alone.</p> + +<p>One packer takes his position on the off side +of the animal, while the other with the coiled +lash rope, cinch attached, remains on the near +side.</p> + +<p>The near packer, retaining the cinch, throws +the coiled rope over the horse's haunch, to rear. +The off packer picks up end of rope, and receiving +the hook end of cinch, passed to him +under horse's belly by near packer, holds it<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85" name="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a><br /><a id="Page_86" name="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> +together with end of rope in his left hand, and +stands erect.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter illustration" id="i85"> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">United States Army Diamond Hitch</span> + </p> + <p> + Figures represent successive stages in formation. + Near side towards right in each case. Line PP in Fig. 1 + represents horse's back. AA (Fig. 3) standing part of + rope, and A´ (Fig. 2) the running rope. + </p> + </div> + + <img src="images/085a.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span></p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/085b.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span></p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/085c.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span></p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/086a.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 4.</span></p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/086b.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 5.</span></p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/086c.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 6.</span></p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>The near packer, taking a position at the +horse's neck, grasps the rope about six feet +from cinch, and with an upward and backward +motion, drops it between the two packs, one +slung on either side of the aparejo.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_87" name="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></p> + +<p>Still grasping the rope in his right hand just +forward of the packs at the top, he pulls forward +between the packs sufficient running rope +to permit him to bring his hand down to his +side. Retaining the rope in his right hand +he now reaches up with his left hand, and +with back of hand up and thumb under +grasps running rope and draws sufficient rope +forward to permit the left hand grasping the +rope to come down to his side, arm's length.</p> + +<p>With the right elbow crooked the right hand, +still holding the rope, is brought up about on +a level with the chin, and the left hand, also +retaining its hold on the rope, thumb down, is +raised to hollow of the right arm, with loop of +rope between the hands lying outside the right +arm. Now by a single swinging motion with +both hands the rope in the right hand, called +the "standing rope," is thrown over the center +of pack to the off packer who stands ready +to receive it; and the rope held in the left hand, +called the "running rope," over the horse's +neck, forward of the pack.</p> + +<p>The off packer, still standing with cinch hook +and end of rope in left hand, with his right +hand grasps the standing rope as it comes over +as high up as he can conveniently reach, draws +it down, and holding the cinch hook in proper<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_88" name="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> +position below the aparejo draws down the +standing rope and engages it upon the hook +from in out.</p> + +<p>The near packer now draws forward between +the packs about six feet more rope, which he +throws to the rear of the near side pack. This +rope is now called the "rear" rope. He next +grasps the running rope at the horse's neck, +and with the off packer's assistance releases that +portion of the running rope lying between the +packs forward of the standing rope, and brings +it to the center of pack on near side, next to and +just back of the standing rope.</p> + +<p>He now slips his right hand down the rope +to a point half way between pack and aparejo +boot, and with the left hand reaches from forward +between standing rope and aparejo and +grasps the rope just above the right hand. Both +hands are now slipped down the rope, and with +the same motion drawn apart, one on each side +of standing rope (under which the rope being +manipulated passes) to the cinches. With the +hands about ten inches apart, the section of rope +between them, which is held in a horizontal +position, is jammed down between the two +cinches under the aparejo.</p> + +<p>The off packer, holding the running rope +with his right hand above the hook, places the +left hand holding end of rope on top of running<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_89" name="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> +rope between his right hand and the hook, and +with thumb under running rope grasps both +ropes and slips his hands up on running rope, +bringing it to center of load.</p> + +<p>He now draws the end of the rope, held by +left hand, forward until a foot or so falls upon +the near side of the horse's neck. The hitch +is now formed, ready to tighten.</p> + +<p>To tighten, the near packer with his left +palm passing the side and center of the pack +grasps the running rope at the rear of the standing +rope, at the same time bringing the running +rope between the thumb and index finger of the +left hand, which he is using as a brace. In this +position he is prepared to hold slack as it is +given him by the off packer.</p> + +<p>The off packer grasps the running rope close +down to the hook, and, bracing himself with a +knee against the aparejo boot, pulls with all his +might, taking two or more pulls, if necessary, +and giving slack to near packer, until no more +slack can be taken on standing rope. He now +steps smartly to rear and throws the top rope +forward of the pack. The top rope is the rope +leading up from the rear corner of the aparejo +boot on near side to the side and center of off +side pack. After it is thrown forward it is +called the "front" rope. He now prepares to +receive slack from near packer by grasping the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_90" name="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> +rear rope where it lies between the packs.</p> + +<p>The near packer, who has been receiving the +slack given him by the off packer, carries his +right hand, with which he holds the slack at +rear of standing rope, to lower side of pack +toward the aparejo, and reaches under standing +rope, with left hand grasps rope above right +hand, drawing it forward under standing rope, +and employing both hands jams it upward in a +bight between standing rope and pack. Care +should be taken during this operation to retain +all slack.</p> + +<p>The near packer now engages around front +boot of aparejo the free portion of the running +rope below the bight just formed. Holding +slack with left hand, he grasps the rope to rear +of cinch in right hand; receiving slack from left +hand he brings rope to rear of aparejo boot, +and with both hands carries rope smartly to +upper corner of side pack, always retaining +slack. The off packer receives slack, pulling it +in quickly hand over hand, the near packer retaining +his hold until the off packer has the rope +taut. The near packer now takes a position +at the forward end of load, facing the rear, and +grasps end of rope prepared to take slack from +off packer.</p> + +<p>The off packer, after receiving slack from +near packer as described takes a turn of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_91" name="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> +rope around each hand, holding every inch of +slack, steps to the rear, keeping in line with +the horse's body, and then facing forward +throws his full weight back upon the rope. Retaining +the slack with his left hand, with his +right hand he brings the free portion of running +rope under and around the aparejo boot, +from rear to front, passes forward of rope, and +facing the rear and grasping rope, right hand +above the left, brings it smartly to upper corner +of pack.</p> + +<p>The near packer, holding end of rope, immediately +draws in slack until he has about six +feet of free rope, which he throws over center +of load to off side, and then drawing in all remaining +slack takes a turn of rope around each +hand and throws his weight upon it, and the off +packer releases his hold.</p> + +<p>Holding the slack with the left hand, the +near packer releases his right hand and with +it engages the free or running portion of rope +under and around the aparejo boot to rear +of load, while the off packer steps to rear of +load, takes end of rope, and while he draws +in all slack, neatly coils rope, holding coil in +right hand at lower side of pack, and, with palm +of left hand braced against center of load, receives +slack from near packer.</p> + +<p>Grasping in his left hand the taut rope above<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_92" name="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> +the coils, and lifting it sufficiently above the +load to admit the coiled rope under it, he swings +the coils with his right hand from rear to front +to top of load and brings the standing rope +held in his left hand down on top of the coils +to hold them. He now takes a loop of the +rope, forces it between standing rope and pack, +in a bight, and takes a turn of the loop around +standing and running rope to secure it, first +joining the loop well up, and the hitch is tightened.</p> + +<h3>THE ONE-MAN OR LIFTING HITCH</h3> + +<p>This is a pretty good hitch sometimes where +kyacks are not used and an irregular pack is +swung upon the crosstree. While it holds the +pack very securely to the animal's back, its +tendency is to lift the corners that might cause +friction upon the horse's sides.</p> + +<p>Standing on the near side of the horse, throw +cinch over the horse's back, pick up cinch and +engage rope upon cinch hook, from in out, as +in previous hitches. Take up slack, bring running +rope up side of pack, double and thrust +loop or bight under standing rope from rear +forward at top of pack, to hold slack. Throw +all loose rope to off side, and pass around to +off side yourself.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_93" name="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter illustration" id="i93"> + <img src="images/093a.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p>(<span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span>)</p> + <div class="cols"> + <div style="float:left"> + A—Cinch<br /> + C—Standing rope<br /> + B—Cinch hook<br /> + </div> + <div style="float:right"> + D—Running rope<br /> + E—Front rope<br /> + F—Marker<br /> + </div> + <div style="clear:both"></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/093b.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Lifting Hitch</span> + </p> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span>) Grasp loop A in left hand and with right + jam rope C C along and under rope B (where latter + passes beneath corner of pack) to D, as shown in Fig. 3. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/094a.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span>) Off side of hitch completed. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/094b.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Lifting Hitch</span> + </p> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 4.</span>) Hitch formed ready to tighten. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>Draw loose end of running rope forward and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_94" name="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> +from under standing rope at top of pack. The +effect of operations thus far is this: The running +rope passes up the near side, from hook +and to top of load and passes under standing +rope, which will serve effectually in final tightening +of cinch to hold slack.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_95" name="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span></p> + +<p>Pass end of running rope over and under +the forward end of off pack and backward under +standing rope and pack. Now bring the +rope forward over side of pack, double, and +thrust the doubled portion over and under forward +rope in a bight. With left hand grasp +double of rope at bight just to rear of forward +rope where it passes over and under forward +rope, and with right hand slip running rope +down and just to rear of standing rope. Take +up slack. By pulling hard upon loose end of +running rope the ends of pack will be lifted +slightly.</p> + +<p>Throw loose end over horse to near side, +and across middle of load. Pass to near side +and manipulate rope as on off side. Tighten +load. Secure the hitch by bringing loose end +of rope over and under forward running and +standing ropes, and tie.</p> + +<h3>STIRRUP HITCH</h3> + +<p>This hitch is useful where the packer has +lash rope but no cinch, and may be employed on +sawbuck saddle, aparejo, or where the load is +hung upon an ordinary riding saddle. It is a +two-man hitch, though one man may manipulate +it.</p> + +<div class="figcenter illustration" id="i96"> + <img src="images/096a.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span>) Rope is thrown across load with equal portion + falling on each side. Loop A is formed on top of + load, and the ends BB are passed through it to form + large loops C and D. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter illustration"> + <img src="images/096b.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Stirrup Hitch</span> + </p> + <p> + (<span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span>) Loops C and D are passed under horse's + belly and seized by packers on opposite sides. Each packer + then draws end of rope which he is holding through loop + which has been passed to him. Off packer forms bowline + knot, E, and near packer passes his end of rope through + this. Hitch is now ready to tighten. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>Pass the rope over the load, with an equal<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_96" name="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a><br /><a id="Page_97" name="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> +division of rope on either side. Form a loop +at center and top of load. Each packer will +now place a foot upon the rope, where it falls +from loop to ground, and pass his end of rope +through loop from above down and draw +through slack rope. This forms a loop on +either side in which the foot rests. Each +packer will now bring forward and under the +horse's belly the loop in which his foot rests, +passing the loop to the other packer at the same +time disengaging his foot, and will pass the +loose end of rope which he holds through the +loop which he receives. The ropes on top of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_98" name="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> +pack will now be spread to properly cover and +secure the pack, and all slack taken.</p> + +<p>The off side packer now forms a bowline +knot in the loose end of his rope, the near side +packer passes his loose end through the bowline +loop. To tighten the load the off side +packer gives slack, while the near side packer +braces and draws in on loose end of rope, tying +at bowline loop to secure load.</p> + +<h3>THE SADDLE HITCH</h3> + +<div class="figcenter illustration" id="i97"> + <img src="images/097.png" alt="Illustration" /> + <div class="caption"> + <p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Saddle Hitch</span> + </p> + <p> + With rope arranged as shown throw deer across saddle, + enlarge loops A and B around haunches and neck. Bring + ends C and D together, form bowline knot on end D, pass + end C through it and tighten. + </p> + </div> +</div> + +<p>This is a particularly useful hitch when it +becomes necessary to sling a deer to a riding +saddle for transportation to camp.</p> + +<p>Throw the lash rope across the saddle seat, +an equal division of rope falling to either side. +Double the rope where it crosses the cinch ring +and thrust it through the cinch ring in a loop, +drawing through enough loose rope to form a +good-sized loop. This should be done on both +sides. Lay the deer across saddle, with head +hanging on one side and haunches on the other +side, slip loop on one side over the deer's head, +and the loop on the other side over its +haunches. Take in all slack. Form a bowline +loop on end of off side rope, and lay it on +top of load. This loop should be so adjusted +as to reach the middle of the top of load.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_99" name="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> +Passing to near side, thread loose end of near +side rope through the bowline loop. Tighten +load by pulling on loose end, and tie.</p> + +<h3>HOW TO PACK A SICK OR INJURED MAN</h3> + +<p>Sometimes it occurs that a member of a party +is so injured or becomes so ill as to be helpless, +and the problem of transporting him upon +horseback presents itself. This may be done +in the following manner upon a crosstree or +sawbuck saddle:</p> + +<p>Cut two straight sticks three feet long and +about three inches in diameter. Fit one on +either side of saddle snug against the forks. +Lash securely to forks forward and rear, with +ends of sticks protruding an equal distance forward +of and back of forward and rear forks. +It may be well to cut shallow notches in the +sticks where they rest against the forks. This +will preclude lateral motion.</p> + +<p>Cut two sticks two feet long and three inches +in diameter. Place one in front and one in +rear at right angles to and across top of sticks +already in position. These cross-pieces are to +be lashed to position one about two inches +from forward ends, the other two inches from +rear ends of lengthwise sticks. Before lashing +them into position cut notches to receive lash<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_100" name="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> +ropes at points of intersection, that any tendency +to slip or work loose may be overcome.</p> + +<p>Now cut two poles six feet long and three +inches in diameter. Spread a pack cloth upon +the ground, and presuming the pack cloth is +six feet wide, place a pole on each outer end +of it. Roll poles, with pack cloth, to center +until there is a width of twenty inches between +the outer edges of poles. In this position lace +cloth to each pole, or if horseshoe or other +nails are handy, nail it to poles. Should the +cloth be wider than length of poles, fold in a +margin on each end, before rolling. Place litter +on cross-pieces, the flat of canvas on top. +Notch, and secure poles of stretcher at front +and rear to cross-pieces. Lash down litter by +means of the stirrup hitch.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_101" name="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XII" name="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</a><br /><br /> +TRAVELING WITHOUT A PACK HORSE</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">The</span> man who travels without a pack +horse, and carries his full equipment +and provision supply upon his saddle +must, of necessity, deny himself many things +that under ordinary circumstances are deemed +essentials. He must indeed travel light, and +unless he is well inured to roughing it will be +content to confine his activities to the warmer +and less inclement months.</p> + +<p>The food supply is the first consideration, +but nowadays one is certain to come every three +or four days at the outside upon some point +where fresh supplies may be purchased. Therefore, +twelve to fifteen pounds of provisions, +carefully selected from the ration already suggested, +will meet the utmost needs. In selecting +the ration it is well to eliminate all luxuries. +It may also be said that canned goods are too +heavy, where one is to pack more than a two-days' +supply, and bacon should be made the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_102" name="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> +basis of the meat diet. But then we are considering +methods of packing and carrying, +rather than check lists. Limiting the quantity +to fifteen pounds for a five-days' trip—and this +is ample with judicious selection—the individual +will be left to decide his ration for himself.</p> + +<p>Saddle bags will be found indispensable and +in them will be ample room to carry the limited +toilet articles required, a hand towel, one +change of light woolen or summer underwear, +matches, tobacco and rifle cartridges. The +best shelter is a lean-to tent, made of extra +light cloth. This should be about seven feet +long, four and one-half feet high and four feet +deep. Such a tent will weigh about three +pounds.</p> + +<p>The cooking outfit will be limited to essentials. +If it can be had an aluminum army or +"Preston" mess kit, either of which weighs +about two pounds, a sheath knife with broad +blade, and a pint cup, will fill all requirements. +If the mess kit cannot be procured, a small +frying pan with folding handle, an aluminum +or enamel plate and a dessert spoon with sheath +knife, and a pint cup, will do nearly as well. +In this latter case coffee may be made in the cup. +A small canteen, which may be hung upon the +saddle horn, should also be provided.</p> + +<p>A small belt axe that weighs about two<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_103" name="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> +pounds, with sheath, a lariat and a few feet +of rope will be required.</p> + +<p>A single blanket or a pair of light blankets +not exceeding five pounds in weight will constitute +the only bedding that can be conveniently +carried.</p> + +<p>To pack the outfit spread tent flat upon the +ground, turning the triangular ends in to lie +flat. Fold the tent once, end for end. This +will make a rectangular pack cloth three and +one-half feet long and about five and one-half +feet wide. Fold your blanket to a size a little +smaller than tent and spread it flat upon the +tent. Arrange your provision packages on the +blanket a foot or so from one end and with a +margin of a foot or more on either side. Fold +the end of blanket and tent up and over the +packages and roll up blanket and tent together +with a band close to the knob in center to hold +the packages in place and prevent their working +down toward ends of roll.</p> + +<p>The provisions should be thoroughly protected +in bags, as previously suggested, in order +that they may not soil the blanket.</p> + +<p>Place the roll directly behind saddle seat +with the bulge caused by the provision bulk +resting against saddle seat, the end of roll falling +on either side, and tie in position by means +of leather tie strings attached to saddle on each<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_104" name="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> +side. The tie should be made in both cases +just below the bulge in roll.</p> + +<p>The tent will protect blanket and provisions, +and if judgment has been used in the selection +and arrangement of provisions the bulk should +not be unduly or inconveniently large. The +cooking kit, if enclosed in a canvas case with +handle, may be lashed to roll by passing lash +string through the handle and over the top +and around the kit. A strap above the upper +loop of the rifle boot and through the belt +loop on the axe scabbard will hold the axe and +another buckled around the rifle boot and lower +end of handle will prevent a slapping motion +of the handle.</p> + +<p>The poncho, neatly rolled, may be carried +on the pommel, the center of the roll pressed +against the back of the horn, the ends drawn +down and forward of the pommel on either +side and secured with the leathern tie strings +attached to the saddle. When not in use +sweater or Pontiac shirt may be carried with +the poncho.</p> + +<p>The horse may be picketed with the lariat. +Hobbles may be made as cowboys make them +from rope. A strand unraveled from half-inch +rope brought once around one leg, twisted +rather tightly, the ends brought around the +other leg and secured in the twist between the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_105" name="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> +legs, makes a good hobble. Always fasten +picket rope or hobble below the fetlock just +above the hoof—<i>never</i> above the fetlock.</p> + +<p>The outfit here outlined will weigh, including +rifle and a reasonable amount of ammunition, +from forty to forty-five pounds at the +utmost, and one may be very comfortable with +it. If game and fish can be caught and are +to be depended upon, the provisions may be +cut down to a little flour, bacon, coffee and +sugar, and the traveler may tarry in the wilderness +for a considerable time.</p> + +<p>One may leave out the tent, and in a warm +climate even the blanket, relying for shelter +wholly upon the poncho. An experienced man +will often limit his cooking outfit to a cup and +canteen. A good strong reliable horse, a good +saddle equipment, and enough plain food is all +one really needs who has experience in wilderness +travel. Such a man can make himself +comfortable with exceedingly little.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_106" name="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XIII" name="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</a><br /><br /> +AFOOT IN SUMMER</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">On</span> the portage one may carry a pretty +heavy pack and think nothing of it, for +the end of the portage and the relaxation +of the paddle is just ahead. The portage +is merely an incident of the canoe trip.</p> + +<p>The foot traveler, however, has no canoe +to carry him and his outfit five or ten miles for +every mile he carries his outfit. He must carry +both himself and his outfit the entire distance +traversed. This is obvious, and it leads to the +conclusion that the outfit must be accordingly +reduced both in weight and bulk.</p> + +<p>How heavy a load may be easily transported +depends, of course, upon the man, but it is safe +to say that the inexperienced will find twenty-five +pounds a heavy enough burden, and within +this limit must be included shelter, bed, and +one week's provisions; though ordinarily the +tramper will be able to renew his supply of +provisions almost daily.</p> + +<p>Under all ordinary circumstances a single<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_107" name="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> +woolen blanket weighing not to exceed three +pounds will be found ample summer bedding. +A lean-to shelter tent seven feet long, four feet +wide and four feet high of one of the light +tenting materials previously described, weighs +less than three pounds and furnishes ample and +comfortable shelter. Blanket and tent may be +carried easily in a roll, the tent on the outside +to protect the blanket.</p> + +<p>To make the roll spread the tent upon the +ground, fold the blanket once, end for end, and +spread it upon the tent, the sides of the blanket +(<i>not</i> folded ends) toward the ends of the +tent. Fold in ends of tent over blanket and +roll up. Double the roll and tie together a +little above the ends with a stout string. The +roll, dropped over the head with center resting +upon one shoulder and the tied ends coming +together near the hip on the opposite side, may +be carried with little inconvenience. Blankets +are usually seventy-two inches wide, therefore +the roll should be about six feet in length before +it is doubled and the ends tied.</p> + +<p>A belt axe will be carried, in a sheath, upon +the belt, the remaining equipment and provisions +in a Nessmuk pack or a ruck sack. The +Nessmuk pack, sold by most outfitters, is about +<span class="dimension">12 × 20 × 5</span> inches in size and made of waterproofed +canvas. This will easily hold a nine-<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_108" name="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span>inch +frying pan with folding handle, an aluminum +pan <span class="dimension">7 × 3</span> inches with folding handle, a +pint cup (if you do not wish to carry the cup +on your belt), a spoon or two, a cooking knife, +a dish cloth and a dish towel, together with one +week's provisions, matches, etc. There will +still be room for a small bag containing the few +needed toilet articles and hand towel, and another +small bag containing one change of light-weight +woolen underwear and two pairs of +socks.</p> + +<p>The cooking outfit indicated is limited, but +quite ample. I have done very well for weeks +at a time with no other cooking utensils than +a pint cup and a sheath knife. But here we +cannot go into woodcraft or extreme concentration +of rations and outfit. We are considering, +rather, comfortable or moderately comfortable +outfits and how to pack or transport +them.</p> + +<p>Tent, blanket, axe, food and other equipment +above suggested will, if intelligently selected, +not go beyond the twenty-five pound +limit. The greatest weight will be in the food, +and each day will reduce this about two pounds. +If provisions can be purchased from day to day +these, of course, need not be carried, and the +remaining load will be very light indeed.</p> + +<p>I would suggest that a light sweater take the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_109" name="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> +place of a coat as it will be found more comfortable +and useful and may be carried on top +of the pack or in the blanket roll, for it will +rarely be worn save in the evening camp.</p> + +<p>A broad-brimmed felt hat, an outer shirt of +medium-weight flannel, khaki trousers and +strong but not too heavy shoes make a practical +and comfortable costume. Woolen socks +protect the feet from chafing. Some campers +like long German stockings, which serve also +for leggings, and wear thin cotton socks inside +them. In selecting shoes take into consideration +the kind of socks or stockings to be worn, +and see that the shoes are amply large though +not too large, for shoes too large are nearly +as uncomfortable as shoes too small.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_110" name="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XIV" name="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</a><br /><br /> +WITH SNOWSHOES AND TOBOGGAN</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">In</span> the mode of travel here to be considered +the voyageur, equipped with snowshoes, +hauls his provisions and entire camping +paraphernalia upon a toboggan or flat sled. +The toboggan (Indian ta´-bas-kan´) had its origin +in the prehistoric past among the Algonquin +Indians of northeastern America. It was designed +by them for the purpose of transporting +goods over trackless, unbeaten snow wastes +where sleds with runners could not be used, and +for this purpose it is unequaled.</p> + +<p>While for our purpose the conventionalized +toboggan sold by outfitters and designed for +hill sliding and general sport will answer very +well, the wilderness model in use by Indians +and trappers in our northern wilderness is a +better designed and preferable type for the +transportation of loads.</p> + +<p>Various lengths of toboggans are in use, +each intended for the particular purpose for +which it was built. The longest Indian tobog<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_111" name="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>gan +I ever saw was twelve feet in length, but +from six to eight feet is the ordinary length, +with a width of nine inches at the tip of the +curved nose, gradually increasing to fourteen +inches wide where the curve ends and the sliding +surface or bottom begins, and tapering away +to about six inches wide at the heel. The conventionalized +type averages from four to six +feet in length with a uniform width of about +fifteen inches from curve to heel.</p> + +<p>Some three or more crossbars, depending +upon the length of the toboggan, are lashed at +intervals across the top, the forward one at +the beginning of the curve where the nose begins +to turn upward, and on either side of the +toboggan from front to rear side bar, and +fastened to the side bars at their ends are side +ropes.</p> + +<p>Beaver-tail, bear's-paw, or swallow-tail +snowshoes, of Indian make, are the shapes best +adapted to the sort of travel we are considering. +These models are all broad and comparatively +short. The web should be of good +caribou babiche, closely woven for use upon +dry snow, and indeed for all-around conditions. +While on wet, soggy snow a coarse web may in +some respects be preferable it will not compare +in efficiency with the close web on loose +snow, or for all-around work under all sorts<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_112" name="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> +of conditions. Long, narrow snowshoes may +be very good for racing where the country is +smooth, but they are not suited to a rough, +wooded or broken country or to hummocky +snow.</p> + +<p>The best and most practical, as well as the +simplest sling or binding for the snowshoe is +made as follows: Cut from an Indian tanned +buckskin a thong about half an inch wide and +thirty inches in length. Thread one end of +this, from above down, through the web at one +side of the toe hole, and from the bottom up +at the opposite side. Pull it through until the +two ends are even. Draw the thong up at the +middle, where it crosses the toe hole, to make +a loop large enough to admit the toe under it, +but not large enough to permit the toe to slide +forward against the forward cross-bar. Wrap +the two ends of the thong around center of +loop two or three times bringing them forward +over the top and drawing them under and back +through the loop. Slip your toes under the +loop, bring the ends of the thong back, one +on either side of the foot, and tie snugly in +the hollow above your heel.</p> + +<p>This sling will hold well, will not chafe the +foot, and with it the snowshoe may be kicked +free from the foot or adjusted to the foot in an +instant.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_113" name="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></p> + +<p>Should the thongs stretch in moist weather, +the sling may be tightened by simply taking an +additional turn or two (without untying) +around the toe loop.</p> + +<p>I believe that lamp-wicking would answer as +well as buckskin thongs, though I have never +used it because I have always carried an ample +supply of buckskin.</p> + +<p>The best underclothing for the winter trail +is good weight—though not the heaviest—woolen. +Two suits should be carried besides +the suit worn. Underclothing should not fit the +body too snugly. It is better that it should be +a size too large than an exact fit.</p> + +<p>The outer shirt should be of flannel, and of +good quality, though not too heavy.</p> + +<p>Hudson's Bay Company trappers wear +good-weight moleskin trousers, almost entirely +to the exclusion of other fabrics, and I adopted +them several years ago as superior to any +other. They are wind-proof and warm and +are particularly well adapted to the rough +work of the trail.</p> + +<p>The ordinary coat is not at all adapted to +the northern wilderness in winter, for it will not +protect against drifting snow and driving blizzard. +In its stead the Eskimo adickey should +be worn.</p> + +<p>Any seamstress who can cut and make an<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_114" name="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> +ordinary work shirt can make an adickey if +your outfitter cannot supply it. This garment +is slipped on over the head like a shirt, and +has a hood attached to draw over the cap as a +neck and head protection. The neck opening +is large enough to permit the head to pass +through it without the necessity of a buttoned +opening in front, for no matter how closely +buttoned a garment may be drifting snow will +find its way in. In length the adickey reaches +half way between hip and knees and is made +circular at the bottom. The hood should be +of ample proportion to pull over the cap +loosely, with a drawstring encircling the front +by which it may be drawn snugly to the face. +A fringe of muskrat or other fur around the +face increases the comfort, the fur acting as a +protection against drifting snow. While white +Hudson's Bay Company kersey cloth is a favorite +fabric for this garment, it may be made of +any woolen blanket duffle or similar cloth.</p> + +<p>Over the kersey adickey another adickey of +some smooth-surfaced, strong material, preferably +moleskin, should be worn. This outside +adickey should of course be just enough larger +than the kersey or blanket adickey to fit over +it easily. The adickeys may be worn singly +or together, according to the demands of the +weather.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_115" name="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span></p> + +<p>A Pontiac shirt, to be worn under the adickeys +in extremely cold weather, should be included +in the outfit. This will serve, too, in +camp, when the adickeys are laid aside.</p> + +<p>A round cap of fur or heavy cloth provided +with flaps to turn down over the ears makes +the best head protection. The hoods of the +two adickeys, as before stated, should be large +enough to draw over this.</p> + +<p>Very important indeed is the question of foot +dress. Not only must we aim to secure the +greatest possible freedom and ease in walking, +but the ever-present danger of frostbite must +also be guarded against.</p> + +<p>Socks should be of wool, of the home-knit +variety, and besides the pair worn, three or +four extra pairs should be carried in the kit.</p> + +<p>Knit socks will not be sufficient protection, +however, and where two or three pairs are +worn they are certain to bunch or wrinkle, with +chafed and sore feet as a result. All Hudson's +Bay Company stores keep in stock a +white fuzzy woolen duffle of blanket thickness. +If you are making your start from a Post purchase +some of this duffle and have one of the +women at the Post make you a pair of knee-length +stockings of the duffle to pull over your +knit socks, and two pairs of slippers of the +same material, one just large enough to fit<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_116" name="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> +over the foot of the long stockings, the other +just a little larger to fit over all. These should +be made of proper size, to obviate wrinkles. +The larger outfitters carry in stock good wool +duffle, and will make these to fit properly.</p> + +<p>In crisp, cold weather, when the snow never +softens or gets moist even under the midday +sun, buckskin moccasins should be the outer +footwear. Ordinary leather will freeze stiff, +stop the proper circulation of blood, and +certainly lead to frosted feet. The moccasins +should be made with high tops, reaching above +the ankles, with buckskin strings to wrap +around and secure them. Moccasins are light +to pack, and it is always well to carry a couple +of extra pairs, to have on hand in case of +emergency.</p> + +<p>Leggings of moleskin (or some other strong, +pliable cloth) large enough to push the foot +through protect the legs. These should be +knee high, with a drawstring to secure them +just below the knee. Ordinary canvas leggings +will not do. The leggings <i>must</i> be made in +one piece, without side buttons or other fastenings, +for otherwise snow will work through to +the great discomfort of the wearer.</p> + +<p>I have a pair of buckskin moccasins sewn to +legs of harbor sealskin, the hair side of the +sealskin out. This arrangement is preferable<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_117" name="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> +to separate leggings but sealskin legs are difficult +to procure.</p> + +<p>Ordinarily I have found one pair of knit +socks, one pair of the long duffle stockings described +above and one pair of the duffle slippers, +worn inside the buckskin moccasins, quite sufficient.</p> + +<p>The knit socks may be done away with entirely +and also one pair of duffle slippers if +rabbit-skin socks are to be had. These are +worn with the hair next the foot, and are very +warm and soft.</p> + +<p>In weather when the snow softens and becomes +wet at midday, buckskin moccasins will +not do, for the least moisture penetrates buckskin. +In such weather sealskin boots are the +best foot protection. They are waterproof, +pliable and light. Sealskin boots for this purpose +have neither soles nor heels. They are +simply sealskin moccasins with legs, secured +with drawstrings below the knee. These are +of Eskimo make, and not generally obtainable +though they may be purchased in Newfoundland. +Oil-tanned moccasins, or larrigans, are +the next best moist-snow foot gear.</p> + +<p>Buckskin mittens with one or two inner pairs +of mittens of thick wool duffle, will protect the +hands in the coldest weather. One pair should +be a little smaller than the other, that it may<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_118" name="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> +fit snugly into the larger pair without wrinkles, +and the larger pair of a size to fit in the same +manner into the buckskin mittens. When the +weather is too warm for both pairs, one pair +may be removed. A fringe of muskrat or +other fur around the wrists of the buckskin +mittens protects the wrists from drifting snow.</p> + +<p>A pad of rabbit-skin worn across the forehead +will protect it from intense cold. Hunting +hoods of knit camel's hair worsted are a +pretty good head protection, particularly at +night. They cover the whole head except the +face, and may be drawn up over the chin. +Mouth and nose must not be covered, or the +breath will quickly form a mass of ice upon +the face.</p> + +<p>One caution, though it may seem a digression, +may be made: If the nose or cheeks become +frosted, as will certainly happen sooner +or later to one traveling in a very low temperature, +<i>do not rub snow upon the frosted part</i>. +Snow rubbed on is pretty certain to fracture +and remove sections of the skin. The Eskimo +way is to hold or rub the frosted part with +the bare hand until frost has been removed, +and is far superior.</p> + +<p>The clothing outfit above described will be +found ample. Extra trousers or other extra +outer garments are not needed. <i>Let all hang<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_119" name="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> +loosely upon the body.</i> Nothing should fit +snugly.</p> + +<p>A pair of smoked or amber goggles should +always be included in the winter outfit. Amber +is more effective than smoked glass, +though ordinarily the latter will do. The goggles +should be fastened with a string to slip +over the back of the head. <i>No metal should +touch the flesh.</i></p> + +<p>The best low temperature sleeping bag is +one of caribou skin made with the hair inside. +Under ordinary conditions, however, a waterproofed +canvas bag lined with good woolen +blankets will do as well, though such a bag +with sufficient blanket lining to give it warmth +equal to that of the caribou skin bag would +be much heavier and more bulky than the latter. +A bag lined with four thicknesses of +llama wool duffle (that is, four thicknesses +over and four beneath the sleeper), however, +should not weigh more than ten pounds, and +would correspond in warmth to one lined with +blankets weighing twenty pounds.</p> + +<p>An A or wedge tent will be found the best +model for winter travel. A sheet-iron tent +stove <i>with bottom</i> and telescoping pipe will +make the tent warm and snug. The tent +should be fitted with an asbestos ring at the +stovepipe hole as a protection. A pack cloth<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_120" name="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> +or tarpaulin will serve as an adequate and +comfortable tent floor.</p> + +<p>It is never safe or advisable for one to travel +in the wilderness alone, for a sprained ankle +or broken leg in an isolated region would be +more than likely to result in death.</p> + +<p>In the Hudson Bay country two pounds of +flour, one pound of fat pork, with baking powder, +tea and sugar, form the daily ration for a +man. It is well when possible to carry frozen +fresh meat, free from bone, with a proportion +of desiccated vegetables to vary the diet. Butter +makes a tasty variety to the fat, for it will +remain sweet at this season. Prunes and chocolate +are both worth while.</p> + +<p>Or if the journey is to be extended the +menu may be simplified by the introduction +of pemmican and the elimination of other +articles. Pemmican is the best condensed +food ever invented for cold weather work. +One pound of pemmican and a quarter +pound of pilot biscuit, as a daily ration, will +sustain a man at hard work, though it will +prove a monotonous diet. The above is +merely suggested as a basis. It may be expanded +or contracted as circumstances require +without disturbing its mean value. Let it be +remembered, however, that ordinary bread +and other moist foodstuffs will freeze as hard<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_121" name="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> +as stone. Jerked venison and desiccated vegetables +make tasty and sustaining additions to +the ration, and will not freeze.</p> + +<p>A man is supposed to be able to haul at good +speed upon a toboggan a load equal to his own +weight. Therefore two men, each weighing +150 pounds, should between them haul 300 +pounds. Camp equipment, tent axes, guns, +bedding, extra underclothing and all personal +belongings of both, if proper care be exercised +in selection, should weigh not to exceed +140 pounds. Add 80 pounds of food, and we +have 220 pounds, or a maximum load of 110 +pounds for each. The tent and general camp +outfit is indeed sufficient for four men. It is +presumed that the aluminum cooking outfit +previously described will be chosen. Some +eliminations, as, for example, that of the folding +baker, might easily be made without serious +loss of comfort.</p> + +<p>To secure the load upon the toboggan, arrange +the bags in which it is packed evenly, +taking care that no part of the load extends +beyond the sides of the toboggan. Adjust the +tarpaulin or canvas ground cloth neatly over +it. Secure one end of your lash rope to the +side rope on one side at the rear. Bring the +other end over and under the side rope opposite. +Cross it back over the load and over and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_122" name="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> +under side rope to front of next crossbar, and +so on to front crossbar, taking slack as you +proceed. From front to rear criss-cross rope +in same manner over load and under side ropes, +forming diamonds where the rope crosses itself +on top of load. Bring the end of rope under +side rope at rear, take in all slack and tie.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_123" name="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XV" name="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV</a><br /><br /> +WITH DOGS AND KOMATIK</h2> + +<p class="drop-cap"><span class="allcap">In</span> considering equipment for dog and +sledge traveling, we must constantly bear +in mind the necessity of keeping down +weight and bulk. Not long since, while visiting +the establishment of a New York City +outfitter, I saw an equipment which a sportsman +ambitious for experience with dogs and +komatik (sledge) had selected for a month's +journey which he was about to undertake. Exclusive +of provisions there was enough material +to weight down four eight-dog teams. +Among other things was a specially designed +tent stove that would have tipped the scales at +upwards of one hundred pounds.</p> + +<p>The would-be traveler declared with pride +that he "did not intend to have cold camps." +It certainly gave me "cold feet" to contemplate +his outfit. It was the most ridiculous +and impracticable conglomerate aggregation of +camping material that I have ever seen put to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_124" name="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span>gether, +and I doubt if the would-be traveler +ever found a sufficient number of dogs at any +one point to transport it.</p> + +<p>While it is the aim of every experienced +camper to obtain the greatest degree of comfort +of which circumstances will admit, the +voyager with dogs cannot hope to carry with +him the luxuries of a metropolitan hotel, and +one soon learns how little after all is really +necessary to make one comfortable.</p> + +<p>How much weight a team of eight good +dogs can haul depends upon the character of +the country and the condition of the snow or +ice. Under very favorable conditions I have +seen such a team make good progress with +twelve hundred pounds. Ordinarily, however, +eight hundred pounds is a full load, and if +much rough ice, hilly country or soft snow is +encountered six hundred pounds will be found +all too heavy. I have heard of cases, when +traveling was exceptionally good, of dogs covering +upwards of one hundred miles a day. +The biggest day's travel I ever made with dogs +was sixty miles, but often I have toiled day after +day, pulling and hauling with the animals at +the traces, lifting the komatik over rough +places, or packing a trail for the team with my +snowshoes, to find myself rewarded with less +than ten miles when camping time arrived.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_125" name="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span></p> + +<p>In selecting outfit the region to be visited +will be a factor to take into consideration. It +would be quite impossible to discuss adequately +in a single chapter all the phases of dog travel +to be provided for. We shall therefore leave +out of consideration polar outfitting, or outfitting +for other unusual work, which the reader +of this will scarcely be likely to undertake.</p> + +<p>The clothing suggested in the chapter on +snowshoe and toboggan travel is equally well +suited to travel with dogs and komatik. Should +the voyager's ambition, however, draw him +within the sub-arctic regions or across the Arctic +Circle some additional protection will be +needed.</p> + +<p>In the far Arctic the natives wear trousers +of either polar bear skin or caribou skin, with +an upper garment of caribou skin called, in +Greenland, the "kulutar;" in Labrador, the +"kulutuk." The only difference between the +adickey and the kulutuk is that the one is made +of cloth, the other of caribou skin. In Ungava +I supplied myself with caribou skin trousers, +which, as is the custom there, I drew on +over my moleskin trousers in windy or intensely +cold weather.</p> + +<p>The kulutuk takes the place of the moleskin +adickey. That is to say, the kersey adickey +worn under the kulutuk will be found ample<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_126" name="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> +protection in any weather, and often the kulutuk +of itself will be found sufficient.</p> + +<p>Kulutuk and skin trousers are worn hair side +out. Were they worn with the hairy side in, +they would accumulate moisture exuded by the +body, and the moisture would freeze, presently +transforming the hair into a mass of ice. A +friend of mine going to the Arctic for the first +time as a member of one of Peary's early +Greenland expeditions, turned his kulutuk inside +out and donned it with the hairy side next +the body. The Eskimos laughed, and resenting +their levity he assured them it was much +warmer worn in that manner than as they wore +it. "No," said one of them, "if it were warmer +worn that way the animals would wear +their fur inside." My friend quickly learned +by experience the logic of the Eskimo's argument.</p> + +<p>Deerskin kulutuk and trousers are not easily +purchased, though along any coast where seals +are captured similar garments of sealskin may +be procured, which, though not equal to deerskin +garments, answer very well. The skin of +the young harbor seal (the ranger seal) is best +for the purpose, as skins of other species are +too thick and heavy. When made of sealskin +the upper garment is called a "netsek."</p> + +<p>I discovered when traveling among them<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_127" name="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> +that some of the Moravian missionaries of the +Labrador coast wore a buckskin suit under +their ordinary trousers and outer shirt. Such +a suit is much lighter than deerskin trousers +and kulutuk, and serves nearly as well. It is +not difficult to purchase buckskin from which +one may have such a suit made. It is wind-proof +and very light.</p> + +<p>All skin garments, including moccasins, +should be sewn with animal sinew. Ordinary +thread will quickly break out and will not do. +Thread-sewn moccasins are factory-made, and +will give very little service.</p> + +<p>The types of snowshoes suggested in the +chapter on snowshoe and toboggan travel are +the types also best suited to dog and komatik +work. Long snowshoes would be very much +in the way when one has to go to the traces and +haul with the dogs or lift and assist the komatik +over rough places; and this becomes the +rule rather than the exception as one goes +North.</p> + +<p>Let me insist that the web should be of good +caribou babiche, and not the ordinary rawhide +used in many of the snowshoes offered for sale. +The former will not stretch when wet, while +the latter will stretch and bag so badly as to +render the snowshoe practically useless.</p> + +<p>It is well to wrap the frame on either side<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_128" name="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> +where the babiche is drawn around it, with +buckskin or sealskin. Otherwise even a slight +crust upon the snow will in time cut the babiche +strands. Wrapping the snowshoe in this manner +will at least double its life.</p> + +<p>What was said in reference to tent, small +sheet-iron stove and general camp and cooking +outfit in the previous chapter will apply here, +as well as directions heretofore given for packing +in waterproof bags. In selecting the sleeping +bag, give first preference to one of deerskin.</p> + +<p>In a barren region where firewood is not to +be had, it will be necessary to carry an alcohol +or kerosene burner and stock of fuel. The +former is preferable on account of the low +freezing point of alcohol. Alcohol or oil +should be secured in tin cases. It is regularly +put up in this way by dealers.</p> + +<p>In such a region, too, it may be necessary to +carry snow knives with which to cut blocks of +snow for the erection of snow igloos as shelter. +These knives resemble somewhat the +machete. One cannot, however, learn to build +a snow igloo properly without long practice. +This phase of the work is merely referred to as +interesting; for anyone traveling in a country +where snow house shelter is necessary will secure +the assistance of a native, who will attend<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_129" name="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> +to proper sledge outfitting at the point of departure.</p> + +<p>On regular lines of dog travel opportunities +to renew the provision supply will frequently +occur, and cabins for night shelter will be +found. Therefore the food outfit will depend +upon the country to be traversed. Where long +stretches occur between supply points, however, +fat pork, pilot bread, tea and sugar should +form the basis. The very best possible food, +however, for this work is pemmican, pilot +bread, tea and sugar. Of course a little coffee +may be carried, but it is bulky.</p> + +<p>The traveler will make his selection carefully, +building around pork, pilot bread and +pemmican with other articles of food like +desiccated vegetables from which water has +been eliminated. Too much salt meat opens +the door to scurvy, unless sufficient variation +in the way of vegetables, fish, or fresh meat +is introduced. Dessicated cranberries are an +excellent preventive. A man can do good +hard work day in and day out, as already +stated, upon one pound of pemmican and a +quarter pound of pilot bread as a daily ration, +and such a ration offers no danger of scurvy.</p> + +<p>Dog pemmican is the best dog food, and the +lightest, for dogs will do pretty well upon one +pound of pemmican each a day. To do well<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_130" name="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> +the animals should be given plenty of fat, +when pemmican is not available, though not a +clear fat diet, for that will make them sick. +Three-quarters of a pound of fat and three-quarters +of a pound of meat or fish is an ordinary +ration. Dogs are fed but once a day—at +night.</p> + +<p>The number of dogs in a team varies, but +the average team is composed of seven or +eight. Eight or nine is the most economical +number so far as results are concerned.</p> + +<p>In the Northwest dogs are harnessed tandem. +This is the white man's method. In the +Northeast they are harnessed fan fashion—the +Eskimo method. That is to say, each dog +has an individual trace secured to the end of a +single thong, leading out from the bow of the +komatik and called the bridle. The individual +traces are of various lengths. The dog with +the longest trace is the leader of the pack, and +particularly trained to respond to the driver's +directions. The other dogs will follow his +lead.</p> + +<p>For open country and sea ice travel the Eskimo +method is probably best, as the work is +more evenly distributed and the driver can always +tell whether each dog is doing his share +of the work, but for narrow trails and woods +travel the tandem method is more practicable.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_131" name="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span></p> + +<p>Dogs are good, bad and indifferent. One +seldom has an opportunity to pick one's dogs +discriminately, and rarely may one purchase +them outright unless contracted for a year in +advance, for the native dog owner seldom +maintains animals in excess of his requirements +in the ordinary routine of his life. The +traveler will usually be able, however, to hire +a team by employing the owner to drive it, and +the owner of a team will get much more work +out of his dogs than a stranger to the dogs +can hope to do.</p> + +<p>At least a year's experience is necessary to +enable a white man to handle a dog team with +anything approaching efficiency, and even then +one cannot hope to approach the performance +of an Eskimo. The failure to enlist Eskimos +as dog drivers has been the real cause of the +failure of many an Arctic expedition.</p> + +<p>It is advised, then, that the traveler employ +at so much per day or for the trip driver and +dogs. It is an unsafe experiment to start off +with a dog team unattended by an experienced +man. The owner of the team will supply also +the necessary dog harness, his own dog whip +and general dog traveling paraphernalia, including +the komatik.</p> + +<p>Sledges or komatiks vary in different localities +as to width, length and minor methods of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_132" name="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> +construction. The average komatik is two feet +wide and ten feet long but as stated, they vary +in different localities, a uniform width being +maintained to suit the local conditions of the +region in which they are used. For example, +wide and comparatively short komatiks are +employed in Quebec, while the Ungava komatik +is but sixteen inches wide. These latter komatiks +are usually fifteen or sixteen feet in +length, however. The runners stand ten inches +high. This is, in fact, the heaviest and most +efficient komatik I have ever seen. Each runner +is made from a single piece of timber and +is from two and one-half to three inches thick. +It is designed for the roughest possible use, and +is, I believe, better adapted to this purpose than +the Greenland komatik because more substantially +built. The latter is peculiar in that it has +upstands at the rear for guiding it.</p> + +<p>Crossbars, extending an inch or so on either +side of the runners and from one to two inches +apart, are lashed into place with rawhide. +When the rawhide shrinks the komatik becomes +firm. Iron fastenings being rigid would +break too readily, particularly in intense cold, +to be reliable.</p> + +<p>The traveler will do well, therefore, to purchase +if he does not hire his komatik at the +point of departure, as in so doing he will se<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_133" name="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span>cure +one of correct design for the region to be +traversed.</p> + +<p>It is well to have a box made the width of +the komatik two or three feet long, and about +fourteen inches deep to lash upon the rear end +of the komatik in which cooking utensils and +a portion of the food supply, as well as odds +and ends, may be carried. This should be supplied +with a hinged cover, and hook or clasp +by which the cover may be securely fastened +down.</p> + +<p>The best lash for securing the load in position +is one of sealskin, though ordinary hemp +rope will do. Before lashing, the tarpaulin +should be neatly folded over the top of load to +protect it.</p> + +<p>One end of the lash is secured to an end of +the crossbar at the forward end of the load, +brought across the load and under the other +end, then across, skipping a couple of crossbars, +and back again skipping a couple of crossbars, +thus threading it from side to side under +the ends of every second or third crossbar to +the rear bar, where it is brought across the +load to the opposite end of this crossbar and +crisscrossed across the load again to the forward +crossbar to be tied.</p> + +<p class="center" style="margin-top:1em">THE END</p> + +<div class="transnote"> + <strong>Transcriber's note:</strong> + + <p>Inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been retained. Punctuation has been normalized.</p> + + <p>The following errors have been corrected:</p> + + <ul> + <li>p. 46 "two or three hundreds" fixed to "... hundred"</li> + <li>p. 51 Chapter VII: fixed numbering of topics</li> + <li>p. 72 carelessless → carelessness</li> + <li>p. 85 change A<sub>1</sub> to A´ to match the illustration</li> + <li>p. 87 graps → grasps</li> + <li>p. 88 "betwee nthem" → "between them"</li> + <li>p. 90 fixed period instead of comma</li> + <li>p. 90 graps → grasps</li> + <li>p. 119 removed redundant "of"</li> + </ul> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Packing and Portaging, by Dillon Wallace + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PACKING AND PORTAGING *** + +***** This file should be named 44720-h.htm or 44720-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/4/4/7/2/44720/ + +Produced by Itay Perl and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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+1,3138 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Packing and Portaging, by Dillon Wallace + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license + + +Title: Packing and Portaging + +Author: Dillon Wallace + +Release Date: January 20, 2014 [EBook #44720] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PACKING AND PORTAGING *** + + + + +Produced by Itay Perl and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + +Transcriber's Note: + + Words printed in italics are noted with underscores: _italics_. + Words printed in small-caps have been converted to ALL-CAPS. + + + + +PACKING AND PORTAGING + + + + + PACKING AND + PORTAGING + + BY + DILLON WALLACE + + Author of "The Lure of the Labrador Wild," "The + Long Labrador Trail," "Saddle and Camp in + the Rockies," "Across the Mexican + Sierras," etc. + + [Illustration: OUTING HANDBOOKS] + + [Illustration] + + NEW YORK + OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY + MCMXII + + + + + COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY + OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY + + All rights reserved + + + + +CONTENTS + + + CHAPTER PAGE + + I. PACKING AND THE OUTFIT 9 + + II. THE CANOE AND ITS EQUIPMENT 12 + + III. CAMP EQUIPMENT FOR THE CANOE TRIP 15 + + IV. PERSONAL EQUIPMENT 23 + + V. FOOD 31 + + VI. THE PORTAGE 38 + + VII. TRAVEL WITH SADDLE AND PACK ANIMALS 51 + + VIII. SADDLE AND PACK EQUIPMENT 56 + + IX. PERSONAL OUTFIT FOR THE SADDLE 64 + + X. ADJUSTING THE PACK 71 + + XI. SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES 77 + + XII. TRAVELING WITHOUT A PACK HORSE 101 + + XIII. AFOOT IN SUMMER 106 + + XIV. WITH SNOWSHOES AND TOBOGGAN 110 + + XV. WITH DOGS AND KOMATIK 123 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + PAGE + + Method of Slinging Load on Aparejo 58, 59 + + Sling for Racking on Crosstree Saddle 74 + + Squaw or Crosstree Hitch 79, 80 + + The Crosstree Diamond Hitch 82, 83 + + United States Army Diamond Hitch 85, 86 + + Lifting Hitch 93, 94 + + Stirrup Hitch 96 + + Saddle Hitch 97 + + + + +PACKING AND PORTAGING + + + + +CHAPTER I + +PACKING AND THE OUTFIT + + +Ordinarily the verb _to pack_ means to stow articles snugly into +receptacles, but in the parlance of the trail it often means to carry +or transport the articles from place to place. The _pack_ in the +language of the trail is the load a man or horse carries. + +Likewise, a _portage_ on a canoe route is a break between navigable +waters, over which canoe and outfit must be carried; or the word may be +used as a verb, and one may say, "I will portage the canoe," meaning "I +will carry the canoe." In the course of the following pages these terms +will doubtless all be used in their various significations. + +Save for the few who are able to employ a retinue of professional +guides and packers to attend to the details of transportation, the +one chief problem that confronts the wilderness traveler is that of +how to reduce the weight of his outfit to the minimum with the least +possible sacrifice of comfort. It is only the veriest tenderfoot that +deliberately endures hardships or discomforts where hardships and +discomforts are unnecessary. Experienced wilderness travelers always +make themselves as comfortable as conditions will permit, and there is +no reason why one who hits the trail for sport, recreation or health +should do otherwise. + +In a description, then, of the methods of packing and transporting +outfits the tenderfoot and even the man whose feet are becoming +calloused may welcome some hints as to the selection of compact, light, +but, at the same time, efficient outfits. These hints on outfitting, +therefore, I shall give, leaving out of consideration the details of +camp making, camp cookery and those phases of woodcraft that have no +direct bearing upon the prime question of packing and transportation on +the trail. + +Let us classify the various methods of wilderness travel under the +following heads: 1. By Canoe; 2. With Saddle and Pack Animals; 3. Afoot +in Summer; 4. On Snowshoes; 5. With Dogs and Sledge. Taking these in +order, and giving our attention first to canoe travel, it will be +found convenient further to subdivide this branch of the subject and +discuss in order: (a) The Canoe and its Equipment; (b) Camp Equipment +for a Canoe Trip; (c) Personal Equipment; (d) Food; (e) The Portage. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +THE CANOE AND ITS EQUIPMENT + + +A sixteen-foot canoe with a width of at least 33 inches and a depth +of at least 12 inches will accommodate two men, an adequate camping +outfit and a full ten weeks' provisions very nicely, and at the same +time not lie too deep in the water. A fifteen-foot canoe, unless it +has a beam of at least 35 inches and a depth of 12 inches or more, is +unsuitable. Three men with their outfit and provisions will require an +eighteen-foot canoe with a width of 35 inches or more and a depth of +no less than 13 inches, or a seventeen-foot canoe with a width of 37 +inches and 13 inches deep. The latter size is lighter by from ten to +fifteen pounds than the former, while the displacement is about equal. + +The best all-around canoe for cruising and hard usage is the +canvas-covered cedar canoe. Both ribs and planking should be of cedar, +and only full length planks should enter into the construction. +Where short planking is used the canoe will sooner or later become +hogged--that is, the ends will sag downward from the middle. + +In Canada the "Peterborough" canoe is more largely used than the +canvas-covered. These are to be had in both basswood and cedar. Cedar +is brittle, while basswood is tough, but the latter absorbs water +more readily than the former and in time will become more or less +waterlogged. + +Cruising canoes should be supplied with a middle thwart for convenient +portaging. Any canoe larger than sixteen feet should have three +thwarts. To lighten weight on the portage, and provide more room +for storing outfit, it is advisable to remove the cane seats with +which canvas canoes are usually provided. This can be readily done +by unscrewing the nuts beneath the gunwale which hold the seats in +position. + +Good strong paddles--sufficiently strong to withstand the heavy strain +to which cruising paddles are put--should be selected. On the portage +they must bear the full weight of the canoe; they will frequently be +utilized in poling up stream against stiff currents; and in running +rapids they will be subjected to rough usage. On extended cruises it is +advisable to carry one spare paddle to take the place of one that may +be rendered useless. + +Experienced canoemen pole up minor rapids. Poles for this purpose +can usually be cut at the point where they are needed, but pole +"shoes"--that is, spikes fitted with ferrules--to fit on the ends of +poles are a necessary adjunct to the outfit where poling is to be done. +Without shoes to hold the pole firmly on the bottom of the stream the +pole may slip and pitch the canoeman overboard. The ferrules should be +punctured with at least two nail holes, by which they may be secured to +the poles, and a few nails should be carried for this purpose. + +A hundred feet or so of half-inch rope should also be provided, to be +used as a tracking line and the various other uses for which rope may +be required. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +CAMP EQUIPMENT FOR A CANOE TRIP + + +Personal likes and prejudices have much to do with the form of tent +chosen. My own preference is for either the "A" or wedge tent, with the +Hudson's Bay model as second choice, for general utility. Either of +these is particularly adapted also to winter travel where the tent must +often be pitched upon the snow. If, however, the tent is only to be +used in summer, and particularly in canoe travel where a light, easily +erected model is desired, the Frazer tent is both ideal for comfort and +is an exceedingly light weight model for portaging. + +Duck or drill tents are altogether too heavy and quite out of date. +They soak water and are an abomination on the portage. The best tent is +one of balloon silk, _tanalite_, or of extra light green waterproofed +tent cloth. The balloon silk tent is very slightly heavier than either +of the others, but is exceedingly durable. For instance, a 7-1/3 x +7-1/3 foot "A" tent of either tanalite or extra light green waterproof +tent cloth, fitted with sod cloth, complete, weighs eight pounds, +while a similar tent of waterproof balloon silk weighs nine pounds. A +Hudson's Bay model, 6 x 9 feet, weighs respectively seven and seven and +one-half pounds. + +These three cloths are not only waterproof and practically rot proof, +but do not soak water, which is a feature for consideration where much +portaging is to be done and camp is moved almost daily. + +Some dealers recommend that customers going into a fly or mosquito +country have the tent door fitted with bobbinet. The idea is good, but +cheese cloth is much cheaper and incomparably better than bobbinet. + +The cheese-cloth door should be made rather full, and divided at the +center from tent peak to ground, with numerous tie strings to bring the +edges tight together when in use, and other strings or tapes on either +side, where it is attached to the tent, to reef or roll and tie it back +out of the way when not needed. + +When purchasing a light-weight tent, see that the dealer supplies a bag +of proper size in which to pack it. + +A pack cloth 6 x 7 feet in size, of brown waterproof canvas weighing +about 3-1/2 pounds, makes an excellent covering for the tent floor +at night. On the portage blankets and odds and ends will be packed +and carried on it. If one end and the two sides of the pack cloth are +fitted with snap buttons it may be converted into a snug sleeping bag +with a pair of blankets folded lengthwise, the bottom and sides of the +blanket secured with blanket safety pins as a lining for the bag. + +My standby for summer camping is a fine all-wool gray blanket 72 x 78 +inches in size and weighing 5-1/2 pounds. This I have found sufficient +even in frosty autumn weather--always, in fact, until the weather grows +cold enough to freeze streams and close them to canoe navigation. Used +as a lining for the improvised pack cloth sleeping bag, this blanket is +quite bedding enough and makes an exceedingly comfortable bed, too. + +A three-quarter axe with a 24- or 28-inch handle makes a mighty good +camp axe. A full axe is heavy and inconvenient to portage and the +lighter axe will serve every purpose in any country at any time. +Personally I favor the Hudson's Bay axe. This may be had fitted either +with a 24-inch or 18-inch handle. In the two-party outfit which we +are discussing there should be two axes, one of which may be fitted +with the shorter handle, but the other should have at least a 24- and +preferably a 28-inch handle. Every axe should have a leather sheath +or scabbard for convenient packing. The so-called pocket axes are too +small to be of practical use. The camper does not wish to miss the +luxury of the big evening camp-fire, and he can never provide for it +with a small hatchet or toy pocket axe. + +Cooking utensils of aluminum alloy are the lightest and best for the +trail. Tin and iron will rust, enamel ware will chip, and unalloyed +aluminum is too soft and bends out of shape. The best sporting goods +dealers carry complete outfits of aluminum alloy. I have used them in +the frigid North and in the tropics, in canoe, sledging, tramping and +horseback journeys, and can recommend them unequivocally, save perhaps +the frying pan. + +The two-man cooking and dining outfit should contain the following +utensils: + + 1 Pot with cover 7 x 6-1/2 inches, capacity three quarts. + 1 Coffee pot 6 x 6-1/8 inches, capacity two quarts. + 1 Steel frying pan 9-7/8 x 2 inches, with folding handle. + 1 Pan 9 x 3 inches, with folding handle, for mixing- and dish-pan. + 2 Plates 8-7/8 inches diameter. + 2 Cups. + 2 Aluminum alloy forks. + 2 Dessert spoons. + 1 Large cooking spoon. + 1 Dish mop. + 2 Dish towels. + +The regular aluminum alloy cup is too small for practical camp use. +There is an aluminum bowl, however, holding one pint, but without a +handle. This is about the right size for a practical cup, and I have a +handle riveted on it and use it as a cup. The top only of the handle +should be attached, that the cups may set one inside the other. The +heat conducting quality of aluminum makes it a question whether or not +enamel cups are not preferable. + +To pack the outfit snugly, set the mixing pan into the frying pan, the +handles of both pans folded, place the plates, one on top of the other, +in the mixing pan, the cooking pot on top of these, and the coffee pot +inside the cooking pot. The cups will fit in the coffee pot. The weight +of this outfit complete is 5-1/2 pounds. + +A waterproof canvas bag of proper size should be provided in which to +pack the utensils. Forks and spoons, wrapped in a dish towel, will fit +nicely in the canvas bag alongside the pots. + +_Waterproof_ canvas is suggested for the bag, not to protect the +utensils but because anything but waterproofed material will absorb +moisture and become watersoaked in rainy weather, adding materially to +the weight of the outfit. + +One of the handiest aids to baking is the aluminum reflecting baker. +An aluminum baker 16 x 18 inches when open, folds to a package 12 x 18 +inches and about two inches thick, and fitted into a waterproof canvas +case weighs, case and all, about four pounds. + +Broilers, fire irons, fire blowers or inspirators, as they are +sometimes called, and many other things that are convenient enough but +quite unnecessary, should never burden the outfit. Even though the +weight of some of them may be insignificant, each additional claptrap +makes one more thing to look after. There are a thousand and one +claptraps, indeed, that outfitters offer, but which do not possess +sufficient advantage to pay for the care and labor of transportation, +and my advice is, leave them out, one and all. + +Outfitters supply small packing bags of proper size to fit, one on top +of another, into larger waterproof canvas bags. These small bags are +made preferably of balloon silk. By using them the whole outfit may be +snugly and safely packed for the portage. + +In one of these small bags keep the general supply of matches, though +each canoeist should carry a separate supply for emergency in his +individual kit. + +In like manner two or three cakes of soap should be packed in another +small bag. Floating soap is less likely to be lost than soap that +sinks. + +A dozen candles will be quite enough. These if packed in a tin box of +proper size will not be broken. + +Repair kits should be provided. A file for sharpening axes and a +whetstone for general use are of the first importance. Include also a +pair of pincers, a ball of stout twine and a few feet of copper wire. A +tool haft or handle with a variety of small tools inside is convenient. +Either a stick of canoe cement, a small supply of marine glue, or +a canoe repair outfit such as canoe manufacturers put up and which +contain canvas, white lead, copper tacks, calor and varnish will be +found a valuable adjunct to the outfit should the canoe become damaged. +This tool and repair equipment should be packed in a strong canvas bag +small enough to drop into the larger nine-inch waterproof bag. + +A small leather medicine case with vials containing, in tabloid form, a +cathartic, an astringent (lead and opium pills are good) and bichloride +of mercury, suffices for the drug supply. Surgical necessities are: +Some antiseptic bandages, a package of linen gauze, a spool of +adhesive plaster and one-eighth pound of absorbent cotton, wrapped in +oiled silk. In addition most campers find it convenient to have in +their personal outfit a pair of small scissors. These are absolutely +necessary if one is to put on a bandage properly. The regular surgical +scissors, the two blades of which hook together at the center, are the +most convenient sort, both to use and to carry, and have the keenest +edge. + +A pair of tweezers takes up but little room and is useful for +extracting splinters or for holding a wad of absorbent cotton in +swabbing out a wound, as cotton will, of course, become septic if held +in the fingers. + +A small scalpel is better than the knife blade for opening up an +infection, as it is more convenient to handle and will make a deep +short incision when desired. These will all be packed in one of the +small balloon silk bags. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +PERSONAL EQUIPMENT + + +Each canoeist should have a personal kit or duffle bag of waterproof +canvas. These may be purchased from outfitters and are usually 36 +inches deep and of 12, 15, 18 or 21 inches diameter. The 12-inch +bag, however, is amply large to accommodate all one needs in the way +of clothing and other personal gear. This, as well as every other +waterproof canvas packing bag mentioned, excepting the cooking kit bag, +should be supplied with a handle on the bottom and one on the side. +These bags not only keep the contents dry, but, as previously stated, +do not absorb moisture to add to the weight, a very essential feature +where every unnecessary pound must be eliminated. I was once capsized +in a rapid and my duffle bag lay half a day in the water before it was +recovered. The contents were perfectly dry. + +One suit of medium weight woolen underclothing in addition to the suit +worn is ample for a short trip. Four extra pairs of thick woolen socks +should be provided--the home-knit kind. An excellent material for +trousers to be worn on the trail is moleskin, though for midsummer wear +a good quality khaki is first rate. Moleskin, however, will withstand +the hardest usage and to my mind is superior to khaki or any other +material where wading is necessary and on cold or rainy days, as it is +very nearly windproof. A good leather belt should be worn, even though +suspenders support the trousers. + +The outer shirt should be of light weight gray or brown flannel and +provided with pockets. A blue flannel shirt of the best quality is all +right. The cheaper qualities of blue crock, and this feature makes +them objectionable. If the outer shirt is too heavy it will be found +cumbersome under the exertion of the portage. + +A large, roomy Pontiac shirt to slip over the outer shirt and use as a +sweater is much preferable to a sweater on the trail. It is windproof +and warm. Do not take a coat--the Pontiac shirt will be both coat and +sweater. A coat is always in the way on a canoe trip and makes the pack +that much heavier. + +A pair of low leather or canvas wading shoes for river work and +larrigans or shoe pacs for ordinary wear, large enough to admit two +pairs of woolen socks, are best suited to canoeing. Heavy, hobnailed +mountaineer shoes or boots are not in place here. + +Heavy German socks, supplied with garter and clasp to hold them in +position, are better than canvas leggings, and protect the legs from +chill at times when wading is necessary in icy waters. + +Any kind of an old slouch hat is suitable. + +Some canoeists take with them a suit of featherweight oilskin. +Personally I have never worn rainproof garments when canoeing. Once +I carried a so-called waterproof coat, but it was not waterproof. It +leaked water like a sieve, and was no protection even from the gentlest +shower. I am inclined, however, to favor featherweight oilskins, though +not while portaging--they would be found too warm--but when paddling in +rainy weather, or to wear on rainy days about camp. + +If the trip is to extend into a black fly or mosquito region, +protection against the insects should be provided. A head net of black +bobbinet that will set down upon the shoulders, with strings to tie +under the arms, is about the best arrangement for the head. Old loose +kid gloves, with the fingers cut off, and farmers' satin elbow sleeves +to fit under the wrist bands of the outer shirt will protect the +wrists and hands. The armlets should be well and tightly sewn upon the +gloves, for black flies are not content to attack where they alight, +and will explore for the slightest opening and discover some undefended +spot. They are, too, a hundred times more vicious than mosquitoes. + +There are many receipts for fly dope, but in a half hour after +application perspiration will eliminate the virtue of most mixtures and +a renewed application must be made. Nessmuk's receipt is perhaps as +good as any, and the formula is as follows: + + Oil of pine tar 3 parts + Castor oil 2 parts + Oil of pennyroyal 1 part + +If when you were a child your father held your nose as an inducement +for you to open your mouth while your mother poured castor oil down +your throat, the odor of the castor oil rising above the odors of the +other ingredients will revive sad memories. Indeed it is claimed for +this mixture that the dead will rise and flee from its compounded odor +as they would flee from eternal torment. It certainly should ward off +such little creatures as black flies and mosquitoes. + +Another effective mixture is: + + Oil of tar 3 parts + Sweet oil 3 parts + Oil of pennyroyal 1 part + Carbolic acid 3 per cent. + +An Indian advised me once to carry a fat salt pork rind in my pocket, +and now and again rub the greasy side upon face and hands. I tried it +and found it nearly as good as the dopes. + +Unless one penetrates, however, far north In Canada during black fly +season these extraordinary precautions will scarcely be necessary. +There Is nowhere In the United States a region where black flies are +really very bad (though perhaps I am drawing invidious comparisons in +making the statement), and even in interior Newfoundland they are, +compared with the farther north, tame and rather inoffensive though +always troublesome. + +The choice of fishing tackle, guns and arms depends largely upon +personal taste. Steel rods of the best quality will serve better than +split bamboo on an extended trip where one, continuously on the portage +trail, is often unable to properly dry the tackle. The steady soaking +of a split bamboo rod for a week is likely to loosen the sections and +injure a fine rod. A waterproof canvas or pantasote case is the right +sort for the rod--leather cases are unpractical on a cruising trip. + +Leather gun cases, too, under like circumstances will become +watersoaked, and under any circumstances they are unnecessarily heavy. +Use canvas cases therefore in consideration for your back. They are +light and in a season of rain immeasurably better than leather. + +Economize, also, on ammunition. Do your target practice before you hit +the trail. A hunter that cannot get his limit of big game with twenty +rifle cartridges is an unsafe individual to turn loose in the woods. + +For spruce grouse, ptarmigan and other small game a ten-inch barrel, +22-caliber single-shot pistol is an excellent arm, provided one has had +some previous experience in its use. It is not a burden on the belt, +and a handful of cartridges in the pocket are not noticed. + +Pack your cartridges in a strong canvas bag, your gun grease and +accessories in another receptacle. + +On the belt also carry a broad-pointed four-inch blade skinning knife +of the ordinary butcher knife shape. This will be your table knife, as +well as cooking and general utility knife. + +In the pocket carry a stout jackknife, a waterproof matchbox, always +kept well filled, and a compass. + +A film camera is more practical for the trail than a plate camera for +many reasons, one of which is weight. Plates are heavy and easily +broken. It is well to have each roll of films put up separately in +a sealed, water-tight tin. Dealers will supply them thus at five +cents extra for each film roll. A waterproof pantasote case, too, is +better than leather, for leather in a long-continued rain will become +watersoaked, as before stated. + +If a plate camera is carried the plates may be packed in a small light +wooden box--a starch box, for instance. The box will protect them under +ordinary circumstances. Film rolls, however, may be carried in a small +canvas bag that will slip into one of the larger waterproof bags. + +My object in outlining outfit is rather to emphasize the possibilities +of selecting a light and efficient outfit that may be easily packed +and transported on the trail, than to evolve an infallible check list; +therefore I shall not attempt to name in detail toilet articles, +tobacco and odds and ends. Take nothing, however, save those things you +will surely find occasion to use, unless I may suggest an extra pipe, +should your pipe be lost. A small balloon silk bag will hold them, +together with a sewing case containing needles, thread, patches and +some safety pins. Another will hold the hand towels and hand soap in +daily use, while an extra hand towel may be stowed in your duffle bag. + +In concluding this chapter it may be pertinent to say that the novice +on the trail is pretty certain to burden himself with many things he +will seldom or never use. Take your outfitter into your confidence. +Tell him what sort of a trip you contemplate and he will advise you. +First-class outfitters are usually practical out-of-door men and +camping experts. They have made an extended study of the subject, for +it is part of their business to do so. Therefore, in selecting outfit, +it is both safe and wise to rely upon the advice of any responsible +outfitter. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +FOOD + + +The true wilderness voyager is willing to endure some discomforts on +the trail, to work hard and submit to black flies and other pests, but +as a reward he usually demands satisfying meals. There is, indeed, no +reason for him to deny himself a variety and a plenty, unless his trip +is to extend into months. Weight on the portage trail is always the +consideration that cuts down the ration. Packing on one's back a ration +to be used two or three months hence is discouraging. + +I have evolved a two-week food supply for two men, based upon the +United States army ration, varied as the result of my own experiences +have dictated. It offers not only great variety, but is an exceedingly +bountiful ration even for hungry men. Personal taste will suggest some +eliminations or substitutions that may be made without material loss +or change in weight. If there is certainty of catching fish or killing +game, or if opportunity offers for purchasing fresh supplies along +the trail, reductions in quantity may be made accordingly. For each +additional man, or for any period beyond two weeks, a proportionate +increase in quantity may be made. + + Bacon, 6 pounds. + Salt fat pork, 2 pounds. + Ham or canned meats, 5 pounds. + "Truegg" (egg powder), 1 pound (equals 4 dozen eggs.) + "Trucream" (milk powder), 1-1/2 pounds. + "Crisco," 3 pounds, (2 cans). + Fresh bread, 2 pounds. + Flour, 12 pounds. + Corn meal (yellow), 1 pound. + Rolled oats, 1 pound. + Rice, 1 pound. + Baking powder, 1/2 pound. + Potatoes (Dehydrated) riced, 2 pounds (equals 14 lbs. fresh potatoes). + Potatoes (Dehydrated) sliced, 1 pound (equals 7 lbs. fresh potatoes). + Carrots (Dehydrated), 1/4 pound (equals 3 lbs. fresh carrots). + Onions (Dehydrated), 1/4 pound (equals 3-3/4 lbs. fresh onions). + Cranberries (Dehydrated), 1/4 pound (equals 2-1/2 qts. fresh fruit). + Beans, 2 pounds. + Green peas (Dehydrated), 1/4 pound (equals 1-1/4 lbs. fresh peas). + Coffee (ground), 2 pounds. + Tea, 1/2 pound. + Cocoa, 1/2 pound. + Sugar (granulated), 5 pounds. + Preserves, 1 pound. + Lemons, 1/2 dozen. + Lime tablets, 1/2 pound. + Prunes (stoned), 1 pound. + Raisins, 1 pound. + Salt, 1 pound. + Pepper, 1/4 ounce. + +This gives each man a nominal ration of 14-1/2 pounds a week, or about +two pounds a day. In reality, however, it is more bountiful than the +summer garrison ration and far more liberal than the summer marching +ration of the army. This is brought about by the pretty general +elimination of water, largely through the substitution of dehydrated +vegetables and fruits for fresh and canned goods. The dehydrated +products designated are in every particular equal to fresh products and +far superior to canned goods. Dehydrated vegetables possess all the +qualities, in fact, of fresh vegetables, with only the large percentage +of water removed. Water is introduced restoring them to original form +usually by boiling. No chemical is used as a preservative as is the +case with all dried vegetables put up by foreign manufacturers. + +It will be noticed that butter has been omitted and that "Crisco" has +been introduced in the place of lard and to be used in cooking instead +of butter. Crisco is a product of edible vegetable oils. It has the +appearance of lard but can be heated to a much higher temperature +without burning, is fully equal to butter when used as shortening, and +dough bread, fish or other articles of food fried in it will not absorb +it so readily as they will lard, nor will it transmit the flavor of +one food to another. For example, fish may be fried in Crisco, and +dough bread or anything else fried in the same Crisco will have not the +slightest flavor of fish. It will keep fresh and sweet under conditions +that turn lard and butter rancid. Butter quickly becomes strong, and +the heat of the sun keeps it in an oily, unpalatable condition, even +when packed in air-tight tins. The most lavish user of butter will +discover that it is no hardship to go without it when in camp. Crisco, +put up in handy, friction-top cans, can be purchased from nearly any +grocer. + +Coffee should be carried in friction-top tins. On extended trips +coffee is too bulky to carry save as a special treat. A pound of tea +will go as far as many pounds of coffee; therefore on trips extending +beyond three or four weeks the proportion of tea should be increased +and that of coffee diminished. On short trips, however, such as we are +discussing, there is no reason and most Americans usually prefer it +even when in camp. + +Each article of food should have its individual bag, to fit into one +of the larger waterproof canvas bags described, though the bacon and +fat pork, each piece wrapped in paraffin (waxed) paper, may be packed +in one bag. Paraffin paper will protect other packages in the bag from +grease. Several articles of small bulk and weight such as dehydrated +carrots, onions, cranberries and green peas each in its original +package or a small muslin bag suitable in size may be carried in a +single balloon silk bag. The small bags containing such articles as are +not in daily and frequent use should be stowed in the bottoms of the +canvas bags, while those in constant demand should be at the top where +they can be had without unpacking the entire bag. Every package or bag +should be plainly labeled with the nature of its contents. In labeling +them use ink, as pencil marks are too easily obliterated. Where a party +is composed of a sufficient number of people to make it worth while the +party ration for each day may be weighed out and packed in a separate +receptacle, thus making seven food packages for each week. This, +however, would be obviously unpractical where there are less than eight +or ten members of the party. + +No glass or crockeryware should be used, not only because of its +liability to break, but because of its unnecessary weight. + +A good way to carry the tin of baking powder is to sink it into the +sack of flour. The flour will protect it and preclude the possibility +of the cover coming off and the contents spilling out. Do not carry +prepared or self-raising flour on the trail. For many reasons it is +unpractical for trail use, though perhaps most excellent in the +kitchen at home. + +Throughout I have accentuated the advisability of waterproof covers for +everything. Every ounce of water absorbed by tent, bags, or package +covers, adds to the tedium of the trail by so much unnecessary weight. +When flour carried in an ordinary sack Is exposed to rain a paste +will form next the cloth, and presently harden into a crust that will +protect the bulk of flour from injury. But the flour used up in the +process of crust forming is a decided waste, and the paste, retaining a +degree of moisture, increases weight. + +I have suggested balloon silk for the small food bags to fit into the +larger waterproofed canvas bags, not only because it does not absorb +moisture, but because there will be no possibility of the contents +sifting through the cloth. If these or the cloth from which to make +them cannot be readily obtained, closely woven muslin will do. + +Should the canoeist desire to make his own bags and should he not find +it convenient to purchase waterproofed canvas, the ordinary canvas +which he will use may be waterproofed by the following process: + +In two gallons of boiling water dissolve three and one-half ounces of +alum. Rain water is best, though any soft water will do; but it _must +be soft water_ to obtain the best results. In another vessel dissolve +four ounces of sugar of lead in two gallons of soft water. Unite the +solutions when they have cleared by pouring into another vessel No. 1 +first, then No. 2. Let the solution stand over night, decant it into +a tub, free of any sediment that may have settled, and it is ready +for the canvas. The cloth should be put into the solution, thoroughly +saturated with it and then lightly wrung out, and hung up to dry. This +treatment will render canvas to a considerable extent, though not +completely, waterproof. + +Muslin for the smaller food bags may be waterproofed by painting it +with a saturate solution of turpentine and paraffin. + +Canned goods should be packed snugly in canvas bags, with cans on end, +that the sides, not the corners or edges, will rest against the back in +portaging. + +Camp chests in which to store food or other articles are carried by +some canoeists, but they add considerable weight to the outfit. The +best and most serviceable camp chest is one of indestructible fiber. +One with an inside measurement of 18 x 24 x 12 inches weighs twenty +pounds. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +THE PORTAGE + + +There are several types of pack harness offered by outfitters, but +it is generally conceded that the best method of carrying heavy or +medium-weight packs is with the tump line. In tump line carrying +the pack is supported by a broad band of leather passed across the +head--high up on the forehead--thus throwing the weight upon the strong +muscles of the neck, with no shoulder straps or other support. + +Canadian voyageurs, Hudson's Bay Company packers and Indians use the +tump line to the exclusion of all shoulder-carrying devices. Indeed, by +no other method would it be possible for them to transport upon their +backs through a rough country the heavy burdens which they are called +upon to carry. Experienced packers with the tump line will sometimes +portage loads of upwards of four hundred pounds. In tests of skill I +have seen a man carry in a single load the contents of three barrels of +flour--588 pounds. + +The tump line consists of a broad piece of leather some eighteen or +twenty inches in length (known as the head strap or headpiece), with a +leather thong usually about seven feet in length attached to each end, +the total length from the tip end of one thong to the tip end of the +other thong averaging about sixteen feet. + +Sometimes the two thongs are sewn to the headpiece, and again the +line is a single strip of leather, broadened in the center to form +the headpiece. The best tump lines, however, have the head strap as +a separate piece with a buckle at each end by which the thongs are +attached. This arrangement admits of adjustment, if necessary, to suit +the individual after the pack has been made up. + +There is a knack in tump line carrying, but the following directions +for making up various packs will give the novice sufficient insight, +with a little experience, to enable him to acquire the art. + +When the pack is to be made up wholly of bags, lay the tump line on +the ground with the thongs parallel to each other and from sixteen +to twenty inches apart, depending upon the length of the bags to be +packed. Place the bags across the thongs, one bag upon another, taking +care that the thongs are not so near the ends of the bags as to render +them liable to slip off when the pack is tied. Now lift the head strap +above the top bag and secure the pack by drawing the loose end of each +thong in turn tight around the bags and knotting it a few inches below +the buckle that attaches its other end to the headpiece. + +When a pack cloth is to be used, spread the pack cloth upon the thongs +of the tump line, stretched upon the ground in the manner above +described, and in the center of the pack cloth lay folded blankets and +other articles to be packed, making the pile about two feet long, and +taking care that hard substances are in the center, with blankets and +soft things outside. Now turn the sides of the pack cloth over the pack +and fold over the ends. If a bag is to be included, lay it upon the +pack after the cloth has been folded, and secure the whole as in the +former case. + +Another method of making up a pack with the pack cloth, common among +Canadian voyageurs, is as follows: Spread the cloth upon the ground, +and lay the tump line across it, the headpiece near one end and the +thongs a foot from the sides. Fold the sides of the cloth inward over +each thong. Now build up the pack in a neat pile about two feet long on +the folded cloth, taking care as before that hard things are placed in +the middle. Fold the end of the pack cloth with protruding thongs over +the pack, take a half turn with the loose end of a thong around the +other end near the headpiece, draw it tight until the end is closely +puckered, then knot it and draw up the other thong and secure it in +like manner. Now bring the free ends of the tump line to center of +pack, on top, cross them and pass them around middle of pack and tie. + +The knack of comfortable tump line carrying once the neck muscles have +become developed and hardened to the work is in properly balancing the +pack. With the headpiece resting high up upon the forehead the pack +should hang with its bottom no lower than the hips. Neither should it +be too high. A little experimenting will teach just where the proper +balance is to be found. If it is too high, lengthen the line, or if too +low shorten it by means of the buckles which attach the thongs to the +headpiece. + +Experienced packers pile additional bags or bundles on top of the +pack, the uppermost bundle standing higher than the head. In my own +experience I have found that an additional bag thus placed upon the +pack and resting against the back of my neck helped balance the load. +My favorite bag for this purpose is a forty or fifty pound bag of +flour, sometimes surmounted by a lighter bundle which rested partly +upon the flour and partly upon my head. + +The tenderfoot will be quite content to limit his early loads to sixty +or seventy pounds, and even then his first portages will not be what +he can conscientiously term experiences of unalloyed joy. Gradually, +however, he will learn the knack of tump packing and at the end of a +couple of weeks of daily experience will find himself able to negotiate +a load of one hundred pounds with some ease. + +All the various types of pack harness are supplied with straps by which +the pack is secured and loops through which to slip the arms, the pack +being carried from the shoulders instead of the head. With this sort +of a pack, as with the tump line, care should be given to the proper +adjustment, with the bottom of the pack no lower than the hips. Fifty +pounds is about as heavy a load as one can comfortably carry from the +shoulders. + +Outfitters sometimes attach a headpiece to their pack harness--that +is to say the harness is provided with both shoulder loops and tump +line head strap. The object is to secure a division of weight between +shoulders and head. This is a method employed by Eskimos when hunting +without dogs. The Eskimo hunter binds his pack with sealskin thongs, +and manipulates a single thong in such a manner as not only to secure +the pack but to form arm loops and headpiece as well. + +No matter what type of shoulder harness is employed, a breast strap +must be used to fasten together the arm loops in front or the loops +will have a continual tendency to slip backward and off the shoulders. +This breast strap fastens the packer so securely to his pack that +should he slip, as is sometimes likely, the pack will carry him down +with it and the probability of injury is multiplied many times. This +alone is a very decided objection to all forms of pack harness. + +If one slips with a tump line, on the contrary, a slight twist of the +head will disengage and free one from the pack; and if one is hunting +the tump pack may readily be dropped at a moment's notice, should game +be sighted. + +Let me therefore urge the adoption of the tump line for all portage +work where fifty pounds or more must be transported. No experienced +packer will use harness. Harness packing is indeed indicative of the +tenderfoot who has never learned how, unless on long cross country +tramps with light loads. + +But on a canoe trip, if one would make progress, big loads must be +resorted to. For instance, if the canoeist has a two mile portage to +negotiate and one hundred pounds of duffle he has but two miles to walk +if he carries all his duffle at once, but if he makes two loads of it +he must walk six miles. With the hundred pound load the portage may +easily be covered in one hour. With fifty pound loads three hours will +be consumed, for there will be time lost in making up the second pack. + +Axes, guns and extra paddles may be thrust under the thongs of the tump +line, or carried in the hand. Never portage a rifle with a cartridge +in the chamber, and never portage a loaded shotgun. To disregard this +advice will be to take an unnecessary and foolhardy risk. + +Save in a rather stiff breeze, one man can carry a canoe weighing less +than one hundred pounds nearly as easily as two can carry it. There is +one best way of doing everything, and the best and most practical way +to carry a canoe is the Indian's way. + +Tie one end of a stout string or thong securely to the middle thwart +close to the gunwale, and the other end to the same thwart close to +the opposite gunwale with the string stretched taut from end to end +of the thwart and on top of it. Slip the blades of two paddles, lying +side by side, under the string, the paddle handles lying on the forward +thwart. With the handles as close together as they will lie, bind them +with a piece of rope or thong to the center of the forward thwart. + +Spread the blades upon the middle thwart sufficiently wide apart to +admit your head between them. Take a position on the left side of the +canoe facing the stern. Just forward of the middle thwart grasp the +gunwale on the opposite or right side of the canoe in your left hand +and the gunwale on the near or left side in your right hand, and, +lifting the canoe over your head, let the flat side of the paddles +directly forward of the middle thwart rest upon the shoulders, your +head between them. It will be found that though you faced the stern in +lifting the canoe you are now facing the bow, and with the bow slightly +elevated the canoe can be carried with ease and a view of the trail +ahead will not be shut out. + +Should the flat paddle blades resting upon the shoulders be found +uncomfortable, as they doubtless will at the end of the first two +or three hundred yards, a Pontiac shirt or sweater will serve as a +protecting pad. + +Outfitters offer for sale yokes, pneumatic pads and contrivances of +various sorts as protections for the shoulders, but these contrivances +elevate the canoe from two to four inches above the shoulders and this +increases the difficulty of steadying it on rough trail. The sweater +or Pontiac shirt eases the cutting effect of the paddles just as well +as any of the special portaging pads, and the canoe can be handled more +easily with it. Besides it makes one less thing to look after. + +In a strong breeze it is often difficult for one man to handle a canoe, +for the wind striking it on the side will turn the portager around and +he will find it impossible to keep his course in spite of his best +efforts. If the portage is a short one--two or three hundred yards--the +canoe may be carried very well, one man with the bow the other with the +stern upon a shoulder, the canoe on its side with the bottom next the +portagers' heads, that they may easily grasp the gunwale in one hand +and steady the canoe with the other. + +This position will soon be found exceedingly tiresome, and on portages +exceeding two or three hundred yards the paddles should be arranged +with the blades on the after thwart and the handles lashed to the +center of the middle thwart. With this arrangement one man carries +exactly as when portaging the canoe alone, save that he stands under +the canoe just forward of the after thwart instead of the middle +thwart, while the other man carries the bow upon one shoulder. This is +the easiest method of two-man portaging of which I know. + +Many odds and ends may be tucked in the canoe on the portage--fishing +rods, for example, in cases, with one end stuck in the bow and the +other end tied to the forward thwart. + +Should a canvas canoe become punctured it may be repaired by one of the +following methods: + +If a stick of canoe cement is in the outfit, heat the cement with a +match and smear it over the puncture. + +Should the outfit contain a canoe repair kit, cut a patch of canvas +somewhat larger than the puncture, apply a coat of white lead to the +puncture and over a marginal space as large as the canvas patch, press +the patch firmly and evenly upon the white lead and tack it down with +copper tacks. To this apply calor, and when dry complete the repairs +with a coat of varnish. + +Should marine glue be used, lay a sheet of it over the puncture, heat +the bottom of a cup or some other smooth metal utensil and rub it over +the glue until the glue melts sufficiently to fill the puncture. + +In a region where spruce gum can be had, melt a quantity of gum in a +frying pan with sufficient grease to take from the gum its brittle +quality when cold. While hot pour the gum upon the rupture, letting it +run well into the opening and smearing it smoothly over the outside. + +"Peterborough" canoes are also easily repaired with marine glue or gum. + +In loading the canoe place the heavier bags in the bottom and middle +of the canoe, taking care so to distribute the weight that when fully +loaded the canoe will lie on an even keel. Keep the load always as low +down as possible. Every bag rising above the gunwales offers resistance +to the wind, and tends to make the load topheavy. When but one man +occupies a canoe, however, sufficient weight should be carried forward +to counterbalance his weight in the stern. + +Lash everything fast, particularly in rough water or when running +rapids. It does not pay to take chances. With a companion I was once +turned over in a rapid in an unexplored, sparsely timbered wilderness +several hundred miles from the nearest base of supplies--a Hudson's +Bay trading post. Nearly all our food was lost, as well as guns, axes, +cooking utensils and many other necessities of travel. The temperature +stood close to zero, snow covered the ground and during the greater +part of the three weeks occupied in reaching the post we had to dig +driftwood from under the snow, and our ingenuity was taxed at times to +the utmost in efforts to protect ourselves from the elements and travel +with any degree of comfort. Nothing worse than an unpleasant ducking in +icy waters would have resulted from our accident had we observed the +rule of ordinary caution and lashed our outfit to the thwarts. + +One end of a rope tied to the forward thwart, the other end threaded +through bag handles or pack lashings and secured to the after thwart, +will do the trick. A short strap, one end attached to a thwart, the +other end supplied with a snap to fasten on rifle or shotgun cases, is +a good way to secure the guns and still have them readily accessible. + +If you would make speed be smart in unloading the canoe and making up +your packs on the portage, and equally smart in reloading the canoe. +Delays in loading, unloading and making up packs are the chief causes +of slow progress. + +When it is found necessary to "track," give the rear end of the +tracking line a turn around the forward thwart, on the land side of +the canoe, then pass the end back and secure it to the middle thwart. +This distributes the strain between the thwarts. While one man at the +farther end of the line tows the canoe, the other man with a pole may +walk upon the bank, and keep the canoe clear of snags, if the water is +deep. Should the water be shallow it will usually be found necessary +for him to wade and guide the bow through open channels. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +TRAVEL WITH SADDLE AND PACK ANIMALS + + +Under this head we shall consider: (1) Saddles and pack equipment; (2) +Animals best adapted to pack work; (3) Outfit and provisions and how to +pack them; (4) How to throw some practical hitches; (5) Equipment of +the traveler who has no pack animal and whose saddle horse is required +to transport both rider and equipment. + +Comfort on the trail depends to a very large degree upon the animals of +the outfit. A mean horse is an abomination, and a horse may be mean in +many respects. A bucking horse, a horse that shies at stumps and other +objects or at every moving thing, or one that is frightened by sudden +and unexpected sounds is not only an uncomfortable but unsafe animal +to ride upon rugged mountain trails; and a horse that will not stand +without hitching, or one that is hard to catch when hobbled and turned +loose, will cause no end of trouble. + +In choosing a horse, then, avoid so far as possible one with these +tendencies, and also observe the manner in which he handles his feet. +He should not be subject to stumbling. He should be sure-footed, steady +and reliable, to qualify him for work on dangerous trails; this is of +the first importance. A horse that does not keep his eyes on the trail +and select his footing with care is wholly unsuited to mountain work. +He should be gunwise. A gunwise horse will not be easily frightened by +sudden and unexpected noises. + +Whether intended for mountain or plains work, the horse should be a +good camp animal--that is, one that will not wander far from camp. +It is more than aggravating to find upon arising in the morning that +your horse has disappeared and one always feels that time consumed +in searching for a roving horse is time worse than wasted. Of course +this tendency of an animal can be forestalled by picketing him, but a +picketed horse unless forage be particularly good will not do well, for +it rarely happens in these days of sheep-ravaged ranges that an animal +can find sufficient food to meet his requirements within the limited +length of a picket rope. + +Some horses need much persuasion before they can be induced to ford +streams, and I have had them lose their nerve and decline the descent +of precipitous trails. An animal possessing this trait of timidity +is not suited to trail work, for he is likely to cause trouble at a +critical moment. + +Some horses are good foragers, others are not. A poor forager will +become leg weary and break down much more quickly than the animal that +takes advantage of every opportunity to graze or browse. A horse just +in from the open range should be round and full-bellied. This is an +indication that he is a good feeder. Generally speaking the chunky +horse is the one best adapted to arduous trail work because he usually +possesses greater powers of endurance than the longer, lankier type. + +All of the qualifications above enumerated should be borne in mind in +selecting animals, whether for saddle or pack use. And of course the +animals should be as sound as possible. One should never start upon a +journey with an animal that is lame or has cinch sores or galled back. + +When mountain trails are to be negotiated a saddle horse weighing from +nine hundred to a thousand pounds will be found better adapted to the +work than a larger animal. Too large a horse is liable to be clumsy on +the trail, while too light a horse will of course tire under a heavy +rider. A small horse, as a rule, is better able to forage a living than +a large horse, and for this reason stands up better with a moderate +load on long, continuous journeys. Ponies weighing from eight hundred +to eight hundred and fifty pounds will pack one hundred and fifty +pounds easily, and ponies of this size make much better pack animals +than larger ones. + +While for general saddle work I prefer a horse, a mule is surer footed +and therefore preferable on precipitous, narrow mountain trails. In +the Sierra Madres of Mexico I rode a mule over trails where I would +scarcely have trusted a horse. Good saddle mules, however, are scarce. +I never saw a really good saddle-broke mule north of Mexico, though +they are doubtless to be had. Mules have greater powers of endurance +than horses, and for many other reasons are superior as pack animals. +The chief objection to a mule is his timidity upon marshy trails. His +feet are much smaller than those of a horse, he mires easily, and he +is fully aware of the fact. A good mule, nevertheless, is the one best +all-around pack animal. + +Burros are good where forage is scarce, but they are slow. When the +burro decides that he has done a day's work he stops, and that is the +end of it. He will not consult you, and he will not take your advice. +When he fully decides that he will go no farther you may as well unpack +and make camp with as good grace as you can muster, and keep your +temper. I believe that burros have a well-organized labor union and +they will not do one stroke of work beyond the limit prescribed by +their organization. But one must sometimes resort to them in desert +travel. They will pick their living and thrive on sage brush wastes +where other animals would die, and their ability to go long without +water is truly remarkable. On rough mountain trails they are even more +sure-footed if possible than mules, but like the mule it is difficult +to force them over marshes or into rivers when fording is necessary. + +In horse-raising localities in the West very good horses can be had +at anywhere from thirty to seventy-five dollars. The usual rate for +horse rental is one dollar to one dollar and a half a day, and it is +therefore cheaper, when the journey is to extend to a month or more, to +purchase the animals outright and sell them when you are finished with +them for what they will bring. Rented animals are generally animals +of low value and sometimes not very efficient, and in the course of +a month one pays in rental a good share of the value of the horse. +The risk is no greater, for if a rented horse is injured while in a +traveler's possession, the owner holds him who has rented the animal +responsible for the damage. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +SADDLE AND PACK EQUIPMENT + + +The riding saddle should be a double cinch, horn saddle, with +wool-lined skirts and of ample weight to hold its position. My own is +a regular stock saddle weighing thirty-five pounds, though for all +ordinary use a twenty-five- or thirty-pound saddle will do just as well. + +I prescribe the horn saddle because of its convenience. One may sling +upon it a camera, binoculars or other articles in frequent demand, +and when it becomes necessary to lead a pack pony the lead rope +may be attached to it. For this latter purpose the horn is indeed +indispensable. + +In the light of personal experience with both single and double cinch +saddles, I recommend the latter unhesitatingly, particularly for +mountain work. In steep ascents or descents it will not slide, while a +single cinch saddle is certain to do so no matter how tightly cinched, +and this shifting will sooner or later gall the horse's back. In +Mexico the single cinch saddle is almost universally used, but who ever +saw a Mexican's horse that was free from saddle sores? The forward +cinch should preferably be a hair cinch, though the ordinary webbed +sort, both forward and rear, does well enough. + +The saddle blanket should be a thick, good quality wool blanket. In +Arizona Navajo saddle blankets are popular, and they are undoubtedly +the best when obtainable. A hair saddle pad or corona, shaped to the +animal's back and used in connection with the blanket, is a pretty good +insurance against galling, and preferable to the felt pad, for it is +cooler. + +A leather boot for rifle, and saddle bags for toilet articles, note +books and odds and ends, bridle, halter rope, a pair of cowboy spurs +with large blunt rowels, and a quirt to tickle delinquent pack horses +will be needed. The rifle boot has two sling straps. The usual method +of carrying it is to insert it between the stirrup leathers on the +near side, drop the sling strap at the top of the boot over the saddle +pommel and buckle the sling strap at the bottom of the boot into the +rear latigo ring. By detaching the latter sling from the boot before +buckling it to the ring, the boot may be removed from or attached to +the saddle by simply lifting the forward sling strap over the pommel, +without unbuckling. In case the sling strap at the top of the boot be +placed too far down, it should be shifted higher up and secured to the +boot with a leather loop which may be riveted to the boot. + +[Illustration: METHOD OF SLINGING LOAD ON APAREJO + +(FIG. 1.) Rope is doubled and loop A thrown over horse's back to off +side. + +N. B.--In this and the following diagrams the pack is represented as +spread out flat and viewed from above.] + +For the pack animals the ordinary cross-tree or sawbuck pack saddle is +the most practical pack saddle for all-around use, though the aparejo, +used by the army and generally throughout Mexico, is superior to the +sawbuck when unwieldy packages of irregular size and shape are to be +transported. Such packages must frequently be transported by army +trains and they are the rule rather than the exception in Mexico, where +freighting throughout wide regions must be done wholly on the backs of +animals. + +[Illustration: (FIG. 2.) Packs are now lifted into place and off packer +brings loop A up around off side pack to top of load. Near packer +passes end B through loop A and ties ends B and C together with square +knot. Balance or "break" the packs and load is ready for hitch.] + +The aparejo is of Arabian origin, and the Spaniards, who adopted it +from the Moors, introduced it into Mexico. In Mexico there are two +types of the aparejo in common use. One made usually of the fiber of +_henequen_, which is woven into pockets which are stuffed with grass, +to form the pads, is used on donkeys in comparatively light packing; +in the other type the pad casing is made of Mexican tanned leather +instead of _henequen_ matting but also stuffed with grass. This is used +in heavier packing with mules, in transporting machinery and supplies +to mines and merchandise to inland settlements. + +The cross-tree or sawbuck, however, is used almost exclusively in +the United States by forest rangers, cowboys, prospectors and pack +travelers generally, and it is to this type of pack saddle that we +shall direct our attention chiefly. It may be interesting to note +that this is a very ancient type of pack saddle, of Asiatic origin. +It consists of two saddle boards connected near each end--front and +rear--by two cross-pieces, the pommel and cantle forming a miniature +sawbuck, while the saddle boards are similar in shape to the McClellan +saddle tree. This is fitted with breeching, quarter straps, breast +strap, latigos and cinch. As in the case of the riding saddle, the +sawbuck pack saddle should be supplied with the double cinch. Care +should be taken that the saddle fits the animal for which intended. A +saddle either too wide or too narrow will be certain to cause a sore +back. + +Each pack saddle should be accompanied by a heavy woolen saddle +blanket, which should be folded into three or four thicknesses, for +here even greater protection is necessary than with the riding saddle, +for the animal is to carry a dead weight. + +The preferable method of carrying supplies with the sawbuck pack saddle +is with kyacks, basket panniers or the _alforjas_, though with sling +and lash ropes any sort of a bundle may be slung upon it. + +When they can be obtained, kyacks of indestructible fiber stand first +for preference. These are usually from twenty-two to twenty-four inches +wide, seventeen or eighteen inches high and about nine inches deep, and +are fitted with heavy leather loops for slinging on the saddle. Unless +the horse is a large one, the narrower, or twenty-two inch, should be +selected. + +Basket panniers of similar size are lighter but not so well adapted to +hard usage, and are more expensive. + +The alforjas is constructed of heavy duck and leather, and of the same +dimensions as the kyack. They are much cheaper than either panniers or +kyacks, and are therefore more commonly used. Any outfitter can supply +them. They are slung upon the saddle in the same manner as kyacks. A +pair of the type decided upon will be required for each animal. + +The next requirement is a half-inch lash rope. This should be at least +thirty-three, but preferably forty feet in length. In some respects a +cotton rope is preferable to one of hemp, though the latter is more +commonly used, and regulations prescribe it for army pack trains. + +A good broad cinch should be provided, fitted with a ring on one end to +which is attached the lash or lair rope and a cinch hook on the other +end. + +There should be a pair of hobbles for each animal, and a blind to put +upon obstreperous pack animals when slinging and lashing the load. +These may be purchased throughout the West at almost any village store. +It is well also to carry a bell, which should always be strapped around +the neck of one of the horses when the animals are hobbled and turned +loose to graze. + +It will sometimes be necessary to picket one of the animals, and for +this purpose fifty or sixty feet of half or five-eighth inch rope will +be required. Also sufficient leading rope should be provided for each +pack animal, and a halter rope for the saddle horse. A lariat carried +upon the saddle pommel will be found useful in a dozen ways, and may be +utilized for picketing horses. + +All horses should be "slick" shod; that is, shod with uncalked shoes. +The shoes should be of soft iron, not so light as to render them liable +to bend before they are worn out, and they should not extend beyond the +hoof at side or rear. Some extra shoes of proper size for each animal, +a horseshoer's nippers, rasp, hammer and some nails should be included +in the equipment. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +PERSONAL OUTFIT FOR THE SADDLE + + +The outfit recommended in Chapters III and IV in discussing camp and +personal equipment for canoe trips is, with the modifications and +additions which we shall now consider, equally well adapted to saddle +and pack horse travel. As previously stated, our object is to describe +methods of packing, rather than to formulate an infallible check list. +With this in view an efficient outfit that may be easily packed and +transported is outlined, in a general way, and therefore such articles +of outfit mentioned in previous chapters as are obviously useful only +in canoe travel will not be referred to in this connection. + +The wedge, the Hudson Bay, the forest ranger and the lean-to tent are +all good models for pack animal travel, and easily erected. Whichever +type is chosen, if made of any one of the light-weight materials +described, will be found both satisfactory and easily packed. For +example, a forest ranger's tent eight feet deep and eight feet wide +weighs less than four pounds, while a lean-to with approximately the +same floor space weighs about three pounds. In the more arid regions of +the West one rarely finds it necessary to pitch a tent, though it is +handy to have one along and well worth carrying, particularly should it +be desired to remain more than one night at any point. + +During the summer, save in high altitudes, one pair of light woolen +blankets will be found ample bedding. For all probable conditions of +weather, however, in tent or in the open, the sleeping bag is the most +convenient and at the same time the most comfortable camp bed yet +devised, and it is so easily carried on the pack horse that I advise +its adoption. One made of close-woven waterproofed canvas is the most +thoroughly practical bag for general use. This should be lined with +two pairs of light blankets, that four thicknesses of blanket may +be available for covering. The blankets should be so arranged that +they may be taken out and the bag turned for airing. One may adapt +such a bag to the temperature, using as many or as few thicknesses of +blanket as desired, depending upon the number with which the bag is +lined. I recently saw a bag lined with four thicknesses of llama wool +duffel (providing two thicknesses for cover) that weighed but eight +pounds and furnished ample protection for any weather down to a zero +temperature. + +Pack cloths or light tarpaulins 6 x 7 feet, used to cover and protect +the packs, will be needed for each pack animal, and at night the bed +may be spread upon them. Saddle bags make excellent pillows. + +In traveling in an arid region canteens are a necessity. There should +be one large one for each traveler to be carried on the pack horse, and +a small one swung upon the saddle horn will be found convenient for +ready use. + +A folding water bucket of waterproofed canvas should also be included +in the outfit. + +The aluminum reflecting baker which has been described is far +preferable to the Dutch oven--a heavy iron kettle with iron cover--not +only because it weighs far less and is much more easily packed, but +because it is more practical. Westerners are wedded to the Dutch oven, +and this reference is merely made as a suggestion in case the question +of choice between the two should arise. + +If kyacks or alforjas are used the large water-proofed canvas duffle +bags and food bags will not be required. The smaller balloon silk +or musline food bags, however, will be found fully as convenient in +packing in the pack horse kyack as in the canvas bags on the canoe +trip. + +Each rider should be provided with either a saddle slicker or a poncho, +which when not in use may be rolled and secured to the saddle directly +behind the seat by means of tie strings attached to the saddle. A +poncho is preferable to a slicker, because of the many uses to which it +may be put. + +On saddle journeys in cold, windy weather a wind-proof canvas coat +or a large, roomy buckskin shirt is a comfort. If a buckskin shirt +is adapted, have it made plain without fringe or frill. Wilderness +dwellers formerly fringed their buckskin shirts, not alone for +ornament, but to facilitate the drying of the garment when wet. In +the fringed shirt water, instead of settling around the bottom of the +shirt, around the yoke and the seams of the sleeve, will drain to the +fringe which the wind quickly dries. In our case, however, the poncho +will protect the shirt from a wetting. + +In summer, in an arid or desert region of the Southwest, athletic +summer underwear will be found entirely satisfactory. Whether this or +light wool is to be worn, however, will depend entirely upon the season +and the region to be visited. + +In very warm weather a close-woven, good quality khaki outer shirt is +both comfortable and practical; but on chilly autumn days a flannel +shirt should take its place--gray, brown, blue--the color does not +matter so long as it does not crock. It is my custom to have one khaki +and one flannel shirt in my outfit. + +Trousers should be of heavy khaki, medium weight moleskin, or other +strong close-woven material. Full-length trousers, with reinforced +seat, are preferable in some respects to riding breeches, and may be +worn with the regulation United States cavalry puttee leggings with +shoes. + +Some riders prefer top boots, such as Arizona cowboys wear, and but +for their high heels which make walking uncomfortable they would +be admirable. High-laced, medium-weight mountaineering shoes will +eliminate the necessity of puttees, and many prefer them to low-laced +shoes and puttees. In snowy, cold weather I have found heavy German +socks and ordinary shoes, large enough to avoid the possibility of +pinching the feet, admirable footwear for the saddle. But whatever +is decided upon, extra trousers, extra leggings and extra shoes are +superfluous. One pair of each--the pair worn--is sufficient. + +The hat should be of the Western style, with broad brim, and of the +best grade. The brims of the cheaper ones are sure to sag after a +little wear and exposure to a shower or two. A good reliable hat may +be had for five dollars that will stand several years of hard wear and +may be renovated when soiled, assuming again the freshness of a new +hat. I have one for which I paid fourteen pesos in Monterey, Mexico, in +1907. I have worn It pretty steadily since in camp and on the trail. It +has been twice renovated, and to-day so nearly resembles a new hat that +I am not ashamed to wear it about town. + +Heavy gauntlet buckskin gloves are a necessary protection, not +only against cold in frosty weather, but against brush in summer. +The regulation United States cavalry glove is the best that I have +discovered for all-around hard usage, and will not harden after a +wetting. + +The saddle rifle should be short and light--not over twenty-four-inch +barrel, and not above seven pounds in weight. A revolver is never +needed, though for target practice one offers a means of amusement. + +Unless going into permanent camp or into an isolated region, it will +hardly be found necessary to start out with more than one week's +provisions. Before these are consumed settlements will be reached, +where fresh supplies may be purchased. It is well to have along a few +cans of baked beans and corned or roast beef, that a hasty meal may +be prepared when time does not allow a sufficient halt to permit the +preparation of uncooked foods. Two or three dozen lemons should also be +provided, particularly in summer, and in more or less arid regions. + +Provisions and general outfit should be neatly packed in small bags, +and evenly distributed in the kyacks. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +ADJUSTING THE PACK + + +In saddling up, be sure that the saddle blanket is folded large enough +to protect the horse's sides from the pack, when the pack is slung into +place. Otherwise the kyacks or alforjas will be liable with constant +chafing when the horse is in motion to cause sores. Not only where the +saddle rests upon the blanket but where the pack rests upon the horse's +sides there should be sufficient thicknesses of blanket to overcome +friction, and this demands a greater thickness than under the riding +saddle, for the pack load is a dead load. After the pack saddle is +thrown into place, and before cinching it, ease the blanket by pulling +it up slightly under the center of the saddle--along the backbone of +the animal. This will overcome the tendency of the blanket to draw down +and bind the horse's back too tightly when the saddle is cinched and +the pack in place. + +When packing the kyacks or alforjas particular care should be taken to +have the pair for each horse evenly balanced as to weight. If the load +swung on one side of the horse is heavier than that on the opposite +side, there will be a continual drawing down of the pack saddle on +the heavier side, resulting almost certainly in injury to the animal. +Inattention or willful carelessness on the part of packers in balancing +the pack is five times out of six the cause which leads to sore-backed +pack animals. + +If two or more pack animals are used, let such provisions and utensils +as are in constant use and will be needed at once by the cook, be +packed on one animal. Hobbles and bell should also be carried on this +animal. This will be the first animal unpacked, and while the other +animals are being unpacked the cook may get busy, and the packer will +have hobbles and bell at hand to immediately attach to the animals. + +Attached to each end of the kyacks and alforjas is a leathern loop or +sling strap. By means of these loops kyacks and alforjas are hung to +the saddle, one loop fitting over the forward, the other over the rear +cruz, or fork. The kyacks should be so adjusted as to hang evenly one +with the other. That is to say, one kyack should hang no lower upon the +animal's side than the other, and both should hang as high as possible. + +The kyacks in place, hobbles, bell, and such odds and ends as it may +not be convenient to pack in the kyack, may be laid on the center +between the crosstrees and on top of the kyack, and over all smoothly +folded blankets, sleeping bags, or tent, care being exercised to keep +the pack as low and smooth as possible. Everything carefully placed and +adjusted, cover the pack with the pack cloth or tarpaulin, folded to +proper size to protect the whole pack, but with no loose ends extending +beyond it to catch upon brush or other obstructions. If inconvenient to +include within the pack, the cooking outfit in its canvas case may be +lashed to the top of pack after the final hitch has been tied. All is +ready now for the hitch that is to bind the pack into place. + +Frequently the traveler is not provided with either kyacks or alforjas, +and it becomes necessary to pack the load without the convenience of +these receptacles. Before considering the hitches, therefore, let us +describe methods of slinging the load in such cases upon the crosstree +saddle. + +The load which is to be slung from the crosstree should be arranged in +two compact packages of equal weight, one for each side of the animal. +Boxes may be used, but large, strong sacks are preferable. The large +canvas duffle bags, described in the chapter on canoe outfitting, are +well adapted to the purpose. + +[Illustration: SLING FOR PACKING ON CROSSTREE SADDLE + +A is forward cruz, B rear cruz of saddle. CC are loops which support +packages. D and E are ends or hauling parts of rope.] + +Take the sling rope, and, standing on the near side, throw one end over +the horse's neck just forward of the saddle. Now at about the middle of +the rope form two half hitches, or a clove hitch, on the forward cruz +or fork of the saddle. + +With the free end of the rope on the near side form a half hitch on the +rear cruz, allowing sufficient loop between the forward and rear cruz +to receive the side pack, with the free end of the rope falling under +the loop. Now go to the off side and arrange the rope on that side in +similar manner. + +Lift the offside pack into position with its forward end even with the +forward fork, lifting the pack well up to the forks. Hold the pack in +position with the palm of the right hand against the center of the +pack, and with the left hand pass the loop along the lower side of the +pack, drawing in the slack with the free end of the rope, which passes +around the rear fork and under the center of the pack. With the pack +drawn snugly in position, take a turn with the free end of the rope +around the rope along the side of the pack. This will hold the pack in +position. Tie a bowline knot in the end of rope, and at proper length +for the bowline loop to reach the center and top of pack. Place loop +where it may be easily reached from the near side. + +Now pass to the near side and sling the near pack in exactly similar +manner, save that no bowline knot is to be formed. Reach up and slip +the end of the near rope, which you are holding, through the bowline +loop, draw tight and tie. + +The following is another method of slinging packs, frequently used by +forest rangers: + +Throw the rope across the horse directly in front of the saddle, and +as in the previous method form two half hitches with the rope at its +middle on the front fork, but in this case permitting the ends to lie +on the ground on either side the horse. Place the near pack in position +and against the lower rope, and holding it with one hand, bring the +rope up and over the pack with the other hand and throw a half hitch +around the forward fork, keeping the free end of the rope under. Draw +the rope taut, lifting the pack well up. Pass the running rope back and +throw a half hitch around the rear fork, the loose or running end of +the rope on the under side, as when forming the half hitch on the front +fork. Now pass the running rope from under over the pack at the rear, +throw a half hitch over the rear fork, take up all slack, bring the +loose end under and around the two ropes at their intersection between +pack and rear fork, and tie securely. The pack on off side is slung in +similar manner. + +Most mules, and not infrequently horses as well, have a constitutional +dislike to receiving the pack. If your pack animal displays any such +tendency adjust the blind over his eyes and let it remain there until +the hitch is thrown and the load tightened and secured. The blind is +usually an effective quieter. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES + + +Whether the load is made up with kyacks, alforjas, or separate packs +slung to the crosstree saddle as described in the preceding chapter it +must be secured in place. For this purpose various hitches are employed +by packers, each hitch well adapted to the particular conditions which +evolved it. + +Our description will be confined to the following six hitches, which +furnish ample variety to suit the exigencies of ordinary circumstances: + +(1) The crosstree or squaw hitch, which is the father of all hitches +because from it the diamond, the double diamond and all pack-train +hitches in present-day use were evolved. + +(2) A diamond hitch, adapted to the crosstree pack saddle. This is a +form of single diamond. + +(3) The United States army diamond particularly adapted for use with +the aparejo. The true double diamond is a hitch rarely called for save +in army work or freighting pack trains, and will therefore be omitted. +There are several so-called double diamonds that might be described, +but these near-double diamonds possess little or no advantage over +the single diamond, and we shall pass them over as they are scarcely +resorted to in ordinary pack work. + +(4) The one-man or lifting hitch. + +(5) The stirrup hitch, to be used when the packer has rope but no cinch. + +(6) The saddle hitch, employed in slinging loads upon an ordinary +riding saddle. + +(7) The hitch for packing a sick or injured man. + + +THE CROSSTREE HITCH + +This hitch was introduced into the Northwest by the early fur traders +and adopted by the Indians. Among Indians, women are the laborers, and +the crosstree hitch being the hitch almost exclusively employed by the +squaws was presently dubbed by white men the "squaw hitch." It is a +hitch very generally used by prospectors, and for this reason is known +in some localities as the "prospector's hitch." In other sections of +the West, where sheep herders commonly use it, it is locally called the +"sheep herder's hitch." It is a hitch easily thrown by one man, holds +well, and is therefore a favorite. + +[Illustration: SQUAW OR CROSSTREE HITCH + +(FIG. 1.) Rope engaged on cinch hook and bight of rope running from +rear forward under standing rope.] + +[Illustration: (FIG. 2.) Loop of bight enlarged, reversed and passed +around bottom and lower corners of off side pack.] + +[Illustration: (FIG. 3.) Hitch formed and ready to tighten. 1. Standing +rope. 2. Running rope. 3. Rear rope--off side. 4. Front rope--off side. +5. Front rope--near side. 6. Rear rope--near side. 7. Marker.] + +With lash rope attached to cinch, take a position on the near side of +the animal facing the pack. Throw the cinch over the top and center of +pack in such manner as to be easily reached under the horse's belly. +Pick up cinch and engage the rope from in out upon the hook. Draw up +slack, taking care that the cinch rests properly upon the horse's +belly. Grasp the running and standing rope in left hand above the hook, +to hold slack, and with the right hand double the running rope and +thrust the doubled portion under the standing rope from rear forward +in a bight, at top of pack. Enlarge the loop of the bight by drawing +through enough slack rope to make the loop of sufficient size to be +passed over and around the off side kyack or pack. Step to off side, +turn loop over, and engage it around the ends and bottom of kyack, from +front to rear. Return to near side, and pass the loose end of running +rope around the forward end, bottom and finally rear end of kyack. +Draw the rope end, from above down, over and under the standing rear +and running ropes, at the top and center of the load, and the hitch is +ready to tighten. + +To tighten the hitch, grasp the running rope a little above the cinch +hook, and pull with all your strength, taking up every inch of slack +possible. Retain this slack by holding the standing and running rope +together with left hand, while with the right hand you reach to top of +load and pull up slack where running rope passes under standing rope. +Go to off side and draw in all slack, following the rope around off +side pack. Retaining slack, return to near side, and still following +rope and taking up slack around front to rear of near side pack, grasp +end of rope, already engaged as directed over and under standing rear +and running rope, pull hard, bracing a foot against pack, and tie. Two +men, one on each side of the horse, can, of course, throw the hitch and +tighten the load much more quickly than one. Tightening the load is +just as important a feature of packing as evenly balancing the packs. +The result of an improperly tightened load will pretty certainly be a +sore-backed horse. + + +THE CROSSTREE DIAMOND HITCH + +[Illustration: (FIG. 1.) A turn is here taken around standing rope with +loop of bight of running rope thrust under standing rope from rear to +front, as in Fig. 1, illustrating Squaw Hitch.] + +Take position on the near side of horse, as when forming the crosstree +hitch, and throw cinch over horse, engaging it on hook and adjusting +it in exactly similar manner. Take in slack and retain it by grasping +the standing and running ropes in left hand. Double running rope and +thrust doubled portion under standing rope in a bight, from rear +forward at top and center of load. Take up all slack. Enlarge loop +of bight by drawing through enough running rope to form a diamond of +sufficient size to hold top of load. Now bring center of loop over and +under standing rope, from rear forward, thus giving rope at each side +of loop a complete turn around standing rope. Throw the disengaged +portion of running rope to off side of horse, and passing to the off +side, bringing the rope down along rear, bottom, and up front of kyack, +thrust loose rope end up through loop at top of pack. Take in slack and +return to near side of horse. Engage running rope around front, bottom +and rear end of near side kyack or pack, and thrust rope end over and +under standing rope opposite center of loop. Take up slack and load in +ready to tighten. + +[Illustration: CROSSTREE DIAMOND HITCH + +(FIG. 2.) Hitch formed ready to tighten.] + +Tighten load by grasping running rope above hook and drawing as tight +as possible. Hold slack with left hand, gripping running and standing +rope, and take up slack at loop with right hand. Pass to off side and +take up slack and tighten rear to front around kyack. Pass to near +side, tightening front to rear; finally, bracing a foot against the +load pull on loose end, and retaining all slack make final tie. + +The above described "diamond" hitch is not the true diamond employed by +government pack trains where the aparejo is used, but it is a diamond +evolved from the crosstree hitch, and is particularly well adapted to +the crosstree or sawbuck pack saddle, is easily formed, and holds the +load securely, which is the ultimate object of all hitches. + + +THE UNITED STATES ARMY DIAMOND HITCH + +The single diamond hitch employed by army packers is the ideal hitch +for securing a load upon an aparejo. This is a two-man hitch, though an +expert can throw it alone. + +One packer takes his position on the off side of the animal, while the +other with the coiled lash rope, cinch attached, remains on the near +side. + +The near packer, retaining the cinch, throws the coiled rope over the +horse's haunch, to rear. The off packer picks up end of rope, and +receiving the hook end of cinch, passed to him under horse's belly by +near packer, holds it together with end of rope in his left hand, and +stands erect. + +[Illustration: UNITED STATES ARMY DIAMOND HITCH + +Figures represent successive stages in formation. Near side towards +right in each case. Line PP in Fig. 1 represents horse's back. AA (Fig. +3) standing part of rope, and A' (Fig. 2) the running rope. + +FIG. 1.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 2.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 3.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 4.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 5.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 6.] + +The near packer, taking a position at the horse's neck, grasps the rope +about six feet from cinch, and with an upward and backward motion, +drops it between the two packs, one slung on either side of the +aparejo. + +Still grasping the rope in his right hand just forward of the packs at +the top, he pulls forward between the packs sufficient running rope to +permit him to bring his hand down to his side. Retaining the rope in +his right hand he now reaches up with his left hand, and with back of +hand up and thumb under grasps running rope and draws sufficient rope +forward to permit the left hand grasping the rope to come down to his +side, arm's length. + +With the right elbow crooked the right hand, still holding the rope, +is brought up about on a level with the chin, and the left hand, also +retaining its hold on the rope, thumb down, is raised to hollow of the +right arm, with loop of rope between the hands lying outside the right +arm. Now by a single swinging motion with both hands the rope in the +right hand, called the "standing rope," is thrown over the center of +pack to the off packer who stands ready to receive it; and the rope +held in the left hand, called the "running rope," over the horse's +neck, forward of the pack. + +The off packer, still standing with cinch hook and end of rope in left +hand, with his right hand grasps the standing rope as it comes over +as high up as he can conveniently reach, draws it down, and holding +the cinch hook in proper position below the aparejo draws down the +standing rope and engages it upon the hook from in out. + +The near packer now draws forward between the packs about six feet +more rope, which he throws to the rear of the near side pack. This +rope is now called the "rear" rope. He next grasps the running rope at +the horse's neck, and with the off packer's assistance releases that +portion of the running rope lying between the packs forward of the +standing rope, and brings it to the center of pack on near side, next +to and just back of the standing rope. + +He now slips his right hand down the rope to a point half way between +pack and aparejo boot, and with the left hand reaches from forward +between standing rope and aparejo and grasps the rope just above the +right hand. Both hands are now slipped down the rope, and with the same +motion drawn apart, one on each side of standing rope (under which the +rope being manipulated passes) to the cinches. With the hands about +ten inches apart, the section of rope between them, which is held in a +horizontal position, is jammed down between the two cinches under the +aparejo. + +The off packer, holding the running rope with his right hand above the +hook, places the left hand holding end of rope on top of running rope +between his right hand and the hook, and with thumb under running rope +grasps both ropes and slips his hands up on running rope, bringing it +to center of load. + +He now draws the end of the rope, held by left hand, forward until a +foot or so falls upon the near side of the horse's neck. The hitch is +now formed, ready to tighten. + +To tighten, the near packer with his left palm passing the side and +center of the pack grasps the running rope at the rear of the standing +rope, at the same time bringing the running rope between the thumb and +index finger of the left hand, which he is using as a brace. In this +position he is prepared to hold slack as it is given him by the off +packer. + +The off packer grasps the running rope close down to the hook, and, +bracing himself with a knee against the aparejo boot, pulls with all +his might, taking two or more pulls, if necessary, and giving slack to +near packer, until no more slack can be taken on standing rope. He now +steps smartly to rear and throws the top rope forward of the pack. The +top rope is the rope leading up from the rear corner of the aparejo +boot on near side to the side and center of off side pack. After it +is thrown forward it is called the "front" rope. He now prepares to +receive slack from near packer by grasping the rear rope where it lies +between the packs. + +The near packer, who has been receiving the slack given him by the off +packer, carries his right hand, with which he holds the slack at rear +of standing rope, to lower side of pack toward the aparejo, and reaches +under standing rope, with left hand grasps rope above right hand, +drawing it forward under standing rope, and employing both hands jams +it upward in a bight between standing rope and pack. Care should be +taken during this operation to retain all slack. + +The near packer now engages around front boot of aparejo the free +portion of the running rope below the bight just formed. Holding slack +with left hand, he grasps the rope to rear of cinch in right hand; +receiving slack from left hand he brings rope to rear of aparejo boot, +and with both hands carries rope smartly to upper corner of side pack, +always retaining slack. The off packer receives slack, pulling it in +quickly hand over hand, the near packer retaining his hold until the +off packer has the rope taut. The near packer now takes a position +at the forward end of load, facing the rear, and grasps end of rope +prepared to take slack from off packer. + +The off packer, after receiving slack from near packer as described +takes a turn of the rope around each hand, holding every inch of +slack, steps to the rear, keeping in line with the horse's body, +and then facing forward throws his full weight back upon the rope. +Retaining the slack with his left hand, with his right hand he brings +the free portion of running rope under and around the aparejo boot, +from rear to front, passes forward of rope, and facing the rear and +grasping rope, right hand above the left, brings it smartly to upper +corner of pack. + +The near packer, holding end of rope, immediately draws in slack until +he has about six feet of free rope, which he throws over center of load +to off side, and then drawing in all remaining slack takes a turn of +rope around each hand and throws his weight upon it, and the off packer +releases his hold. + +Holding the slack with the left hand, the near packer releases his +right hand and with it engages the free or running portion of rope +under and around the aparejo boot to rear of load, while the off packer +steps to rear of load, takes end of rope, and while he draws in all +slack, neatly coils rope, holding coil in right hand at lower side +of pack, and, with palm of left hand braced against center of load, +receives slack from near packer. + +Grasping in his left hand the taut rope above the coils, and lifting +it sufficiently above the load to admit the coiled rope under it, he +swings the coils with his right hand from rear to front to top of load +and brings the standing rope held in his left hand down on top of the +coils to hold them. He now takes a loop of the rope, forces it between +standing rope and pack, in a bight, and takes a turn of the loop around +standing and running rope to secure it, first joining the loop well up, +and the hitch is tightened. + + +THE ONE-MAN OR LIFTING HITCH + +This is a pretty good hitch sometimes where kyacks are not used and an +irregular pack is swung upon the crosstree. While it holds the pack +very securely to the animal's back, its tendency is to lift the corners +that might cause friction upon the horse's sides. + +Standing on the near side of the horse, throw cinch over the horse's +back, pick up cinch and engage rope upon cinch hook, from in out, as in +previous hitches. Take up slack, bring running rope up side of pack, +double and thrust loop or bight under standing rope from rear forward +at top of pack, to hold slack. Throw all loose rope to off side, and +pass around to off side yourself. + +[Illustration: (FIG. 1.) + + A--Cinch D--Running rope + C--Standing rope E--Front rope + B--Cinch hook F--Marker] + +[Illustration: LIFTING HITCH + +(FIG. 2.) Grasp loop A in left hand and with right jam rope C C along +and under rope B (where latter passes beneath corner of pack) to D, as +shown in Fig. 3.] + +[Illustration: (FIG. 3.) Off side of hitch completed.] + +[Illustration: LIFTING HITCH + +(FIG. 4.) Hitch formed ready to tighten.] + +Draw loose end of running rope forward and from under standing rope +at top of pack. The effect of operations thus far is this: The running +rope passes up the near side, from hook and to top of load and passes +under standing rope, which will serve effectually in final tightening +of cinch to hold slack. + +Pass end of running rope over and under the forward end of off pack and +backward under standing rope and pack. Now bring the rope forward over +side of pack, double, and thrust the doubled portion over and under +forward rope in a bight. With left hand grasp double of rope at bight +just to rear of forward rope where it passes over and under forward +rope, and with right hand slip running rope down and just to rear of +standing rope. Take up slack. By pulling hard upon loose end of running +rope the ends of pack will be lifted slightly. + +Throw loose end over horse to near side, and across middle of load. +Pass to near side and manipulate rope as on off side. Tighten load. +Secure the hitch by bringing loose end of rope over and under forward +running and standing ropes, and tie. + + +STIRRUP HITCH + +This hitch is useful where the packer has lash rope but no cinch, and +may be employed on sawbuck saddle, aparejo, or where the load is hung +upon an ordinary riding saddle. It is a two-man hitch, though one man +may manipulate it. + +[Illustration: (FIG. 1.) Rope is thrown across load with equal portion +falling on each side. Loop A is formed on top of load, and the ends BB +are passed through it to form large loops C and D.] + +[Illustration: STIRRUP HITCH + +(FIG. 2.) Loops C and D are passed under horse's belly and seized by +packers on opposite sides. Each packer then draws end of rope which he +is holding through loop which has been passed to him. Off packer forms +bowline knot, E, and near packer passes his end of rope through this. +Hitch is now ready to tighten.] + +Pass the rope over the load, with an equal division of rope on either +side. Form a loop at center and top of load. Each packer will now place +a foot upon the rope, where it falls from loop to ground, and pass his +end of rope through loop from above down and draw through slack rope. +This forms a loop on either side in which the foot rests. Each packer +will now bring forward and under the horse's belly the loop in which +his foot rests, passing the loop to the other packer at the same time +disengaging his foot, and will pass the loose end of rope which he +holds through the loop which he receives. The ropes on top of pack +will now be spread to properly cover and secure the pack, and all slack +taken. + +The off side packer now forms a bowline knot in the loose end of his +rope, the near side packer passes his loose end through the bowline +loop. To tighten the load the off side packer gives slack, while the +near side packer braces and draws in on loose end of rope, tying at +bowline loop to secure load. + + +THE SADDLE HITCH + +[Illustration: SADDLE HITCH + +With rope arranged as shown throw deer across saddle, enlarge loops +A and B around haunches and neck. Bring ends C and D together, form +bowline knot on end D, pass end C through it and tighten.] + +This is a particularly useful hitch when it becomes necessary to sling +a deer to a riding saddle for transportation to camp. + +Throw the lash rope across the saddle seat, an equal division of rope +falling to either side. Double the rope where it crosses the cinch ring +and thrust it through the cinch ring in a loop, drawing through enough +loose rope to form a good-sized loop. This should be done on both +sides. Lay the deer across saddle, with head hanging on one side and +haunches on the other side, slip loop on one side over the deer's head, +and the loop on the other side over its haunches. Take in all slack. +Form a bowline loop on end of off side rope, and lay it on top of load. +This loop should be so adjusted as to reach the middle of the top of +load. Passing to near side, thread loose end of near side rope through +the bowline loop. Tighten load by pulling on loose end, and tie. + + +HOW TO PACK A SICK OR INJURED MAN + +Sometimes it occurs that a member of a party is so injured or becomes +so ill as to be helpless, and the problem of transporting him upon +horseback presents itself. This may be done in the following manner +upon a crosstree or sawbuck saddle: + +Cut two straight sticks three feet long and about three inches in +diameter. Fit one on either side of saddle snug against the forks. Lash +securely to forks forward and rear, with ends of sticks protruding an +equal distance forward of and back of forward and rear forks. It may be +well to cut shallow notches in the sticks where they rest against the +forks. This will preclude lateral motion. + +Cut two sticks two feet long and three inches in diameter. Place one +in front and one in rear at right angles to and across top of sticks +already in position. These cross-pieces are to be lashed to position +one about two inches from forward ends, the other two inches from +rear ends of lengthwise sticks. Before lashing them into position cut +notches to receive lash ropes at points of intersection, that any +tendency to slip or work loose may be overcome. + +Now cut two poles six feet long and three inches in diameter. Spread a +pack cloth upon the ground, and presuming the pack cloth is six feet +wide, place a pole on each outer end of it. Roll poles, with pack +cloth, to center until there is a width of twenty inches between the +outer edges of poles. In this position lace cloth to each pole, or if +horseshoe or other nails are handy, nail it to poles. Should the cloth +be wider than length of poles, fold in a margin on each end, before +rolling. Place litter on cross-pieces, the flat of canvas on top. +Notch, and secure poles of stretcher at front and rear to cross-pieces. +Lash down litter by means of the stirrup hitch. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +TRAVELING WITHOUT A PACK HORSE + + +The man who travels without a pack horse, and carries his full +equipment and provision supply upon his saddle must, of necessity, +deny himself many things that under ordinary circumstances are deemed +essentials. He must indeed travel light, and unless he is well inured +to roughing it will be content to confine his activities to the warmer +and less inclement months. + +The food supply is the first consideration, but nowadays one is certain +to come every three or four days at the outside upon some point where +fresh supplies may be purchased. Therefore, twelve to fifteen pounds of +provisions, carefully selected from the ration already suggested, will +meet the utmost needs. In selecting the ration it is well to eliminate +all luxuries. It may also be said that canned goods are too heavy, +where one is to pack more than a two-days' supply, and bacon should be +made the basis of the meat diet. But then we are considering methods +of packing and carrying, rather than check lists. Limiting the quantity +to fifteen pounds for a five-days' trip--and this is ample with +judicious selection--the individual will be left to decide his ration +for himself. + +Saddle bags will be found indispensable and in them will be ample +room to carry the limited toilet articles required, a hand towel, one +change of light woolen or summer underwear, matches, tobacco and rifle +cartridges. The best shelter is a lean-to tent, made of extra light +cloth. This should be about seven feet long, four and one-half feet +high and four feet deep. Such a tent will weigh about three pounds. + +The cooking outfit will be limited to essentials. If it can be had an +aluminum army or "Preston" mess kit, either of which weighs about two +pounds, a sheath knife with broad blade, and a pint cup, will fill all +requirements. If the mess kit cannot be procured, a small frying pan +with folding handle, an aluminum or enamel plate and a dessert spoon +with sheath knife, and a pint cup, will do nearly as well. In this +latter case coffee may be made in the cup. A small canteen, which may +be hung upon the saddle horn, should also be provided. + +A small belt axe that weighs about two pounds, with sheath, a lariat +and a few feet of rope will be required. + +A single blanket or a pair of light blankets not exceeding five pounds +in weight will constitute the only bedding that can be conveniently +carried. + +To pack the outfit spread tent flat upon the ground, turning the +triangular ends in to lie flat. Fold the tent once, end for end. +This will make a rectangular pack cloth three and one-half feet long +and about five and one-half feet wide. Fold your blanket to a size a +little smaller than tent and spread it flat upon the tent. Arrange your +provision packages on the blanket a foot or so from one end and with a +margin of a foot or more on either side. Fold the end of blanket and +tent up and over the packages and roll up blanket and tent together +with a band close to the knob in center to hold the packages in place +and prevent their working down toward ends of roll. + +The provisions should be thoroughly protected in bags, as previously +suggested, in order that they may not soil the blanket. + +Place the roll directly behind saddle seat with the bulge caused by the +provision bulk resting against saddle seat, the end of roll falling +on either side, and tie in position by means of leather tie strings +attached to saddle on each side. The tie should be made in both cases +just below the bulge in roll. + +The tent will protect blanket and provisions, and if judgment has been +used in the selection and arrangement of provisions the bulk should not +be unduly or inconveniently large. The cooking kit, if enclosed in a +canvas case with handle, may be lashed to roll by passing lash string +through the handle and over the top and around the kit. A strap above +the upper loop of the rifle boot and through the belt loop on the axe +scabbard will hold the axe and another buckled around the rifle boot +and lower end of handle will prevent a slapping motion of the handle. + +The poncho, neatly rolled, may be carried on the pommel, the center +of the roll pressed against the back of the horn, the ends drawn down +and forward of the pommel on either side and secured with the leathern +tie strings attached to the saddle. When not in use sweater or Pontiac +shirt may be carried with the poncho. + +The horse may be picketed with the lariat. Hobbles may be made as +cowboys make them from rope. A strand unraveled from half-inch rope +brought once around one leg, twisted rather tightly, the ends brought +around the other leg and secured in the twist between the legs, makes +a good hobble. Always fasten picket rope or hobble below the fetlock +just above the hoof--_never_ above the fetlock. + +The outfit here outlined will weigh, including rifle and a reasonable +amount of ammunition, from forty to forty-five pounds at the utmost, +and one may be very comfortable with it. If game and fish can be caught +and are to be depended upon, the provisions may be cut down to a little +flour, bacon, coffee and sugar, and the traveler may tarry in the +wilderness for a considerable time. + +One may leave out the tent, and in a warm climate even the blanket, +relying for shelter wholly upon the poncho. An experienced man will +often limit his cooking outfit to a cup and canteen. A good strong +reliable horse, a good saddle equipment, and enough plain food is all +one really needs who has experience in wilderness travel. Such a man +can make himself comfortable with exceedingly little. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +AFOOT IN SUMMER + + +On the portage one may carry a pretty heavy pack and think nothing of +it, for the end of the portage and the relaxation of the paddle is just +ahead. The portage is merely an incident of the canoe trip. + +The foot traveler, however, has no canoe to carry him and his outfit +five or ten miles for every mile he carries his outfit. He must carry +both himself and his outfit the entire distance traversed. This is +obvious, and it leads to the conclusion that the outfit must be +accordingly reduced both in weight and bulk. + +How heavy a load may be easily transported depends, of course, upon the +man, but it is safe to say that the inexperienced will find twenty-five +pounds a heavy enough burden, and within this limit must be included +shelter, bed, and one week's provisions; though ordinarily the tramper +will be able to renew his supply of provisions almost daily. + +Under all ordinary circumstances a single woolen blanket weighing not +to exceed three pounds will be found ample summer bedding. A lean-to +shelter tent seven feet long, four feet wide and four feet high of +one of the light tenting materials previously described, weighs less +than three pounds and furnishes ample and comfortable shelter. Blanket +and tent may be carried easily in a roll, the tent on the outside to +protect the blanket. + +To make the roll spread the tent upon the ground, fold the blanket +once, end for end, and spread it upon the tent, the sides of the +blanket (_not_ folded ends) toward the ends of the tent. Fold in ends +of tent over blanket and roll up. Double the roll and tie together a +little above the ends with a stout string. The roll, dropped over the +head with center resting upon one shoulder and the tied ends coming +together near the hip on the opposite side, may be carried with little +inconvenience. Blankets are usually seventy-two inches wide, therefore +the roll should be about six feet in length before it is doubled and +the ends tied. + +A belt axe will be carried, in a sheath, upon the belt, the remaining +equipment and provisions in a Nessmuk pack or a ruck sack. The Nessmuk +pack, sold by most outfitters, is about 12 x 20 x 5 inches in size +and made of waterproofed canvas. This will easily hold a nine-inch +frying pan with folding handle, an aluminum pan 7 x 3 inches with +folding handle, a pint cup (if you do not wish to carry the cup on your +belt), a spoon or two, a cooking knife, a dish cloth and a dish towel, +together with one week's provisions, matches, etc. There will still +be room for a small bag containing the few needed toilet articles and +hand towel, and another small bag containing one change of light-weight +woolen underwear and two pairs of socks. + +The cooking outfit indicated is limited, but quite ample. I have done +very well for weeks at a time with no other cooking utensils than a +pint cup and a sheath knife. But here we cannot go into woodcraft +or extreme concentration of rations and outfit. We are considering, +rather, comfortable or moderately comfortable outfits and how to pack +or transport them. + +Tent, blanket, axe, food and other equipment above suggested will, if +intelligently selected, not go beyond the twenty-five pound limit. The +greatest weight will be in the food, and each day will reduce this +about two pounds. If provisions can be purchased from day to day these, +of course, need not be carried, and the remaining load will be very +light indeed. + +I would suggest that a light sweater take the place of a coat as it +will be found more comfortable and useful and may be carried on top of +the pack or in the blanket roll, for it will rarely be worn save in the +evening camp. + +A broad-brimmed felt hat, an outer shirt of medium-weight flannel, +khaki trousers and strong but not too heavy shoes make a practical and +comfortable costume. Woolen socks protect the feet from chafing. Some +campers like long German stockings, which serve also for leggings, +and wear thin cotton socks inside them. In selecting shoes take into +consideration the kind of socks or stockings to be worn, and see that +the shoes are amply large though not too large, for shoes too large are +nearly as uncomfortable as shoes too small. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +WITH SNOWSHOES AND TOBOGGAN + + +In the mode of travel here to be considered the voyageur, equipped +with snowshoes, hauls his provisions and entire camping paraphernalia +upon a toboggan or flat sled. The toboggan (Indian ta'-bas-kan') +had its origin in the prehistoric past among the Algonquin Indians +of northeastern America. It was designed by them for the purpose of +transporting goods over trackless, unbeaten snow wastes where sleds +with runners could not be used, and for this purpose it is unequaled. + +While for our purpose the conventionalized toboggan sold by outfitters +and designed for hill sliding and general sport will answer very +well, the wilderness model in use by Indians and trappers in our +northern wilderness is a better designed and preferable type for the +transportation of loads. + +Various lengths of toboggans are in use, each intended for the +particular purpose for which it was built. The longest Indian toboggan +I ever saw was twelve feet in length, but from six to eight feet is the +ordinary length, with a width of nine inches at the tip of the curved +nose, gradually increasing to fourteen inches wide where the curve ends +and the sliding surface or bottom begins, and tapering away to about +six inches wide at the heel. The conventionalized type averages from +four to six feet in length with a uniform width of about fifteen inches +from curve to heel. + +Some three or more crossbars, depending upon the length of the +toboggan, are lashed at intervals across the top, the forward one at +the beginning of the curve where the nose begins to turn upward, and on +either side of the toboggan from front to rear side bar, and fastened +to the side bars at their ends are side ropes. + +Beaver-tail, bear's-paw, or swallow-tail snowshoes, of Indian make, are +the shapes best adapted to the sort of travel we are considering. These +models are all broad and comparatively short. The web should be of good +caribou babiche, closely woven for use upon dry snow, and indeed for +all-around conditions. While on wet, soggy snow a coarse web may in +some respects be preferable it will not compare in efficiency with the +close web on loose snow, or for all-around work under all sorts of +conditions. Long, narrow snowshoes may be very good for racing where +the country is smooth, but they are not suited to a rough, wooded or +broken country or to hummocky snow. + +The best and most practical, as well as the simplest sling or binding +for the snowshoe is made as follows: Cut from an Indian tanned buckskin +a thong about half an inch wide and thirty inches in length. Thread +one end of this, from above down, through the web at one side of the +toe hole, and from the bottom up at the opposite side. Pull it through +until the two ends are even. Draw the thong up at the middle, where +it crosses the toe hole, to make a loop large enough to admit the toe +under it, but not large enough to permit the toe to slide forward +against the forward cross-bar. Wrap the two ends of the thong around +center of loop two or three times bringing them forward over the top +and drawing them under and back through the loop. Slip your toes under +the loop, bring the ends of the thong back, one on either side of the +foot, and tie snugly in the hollow above your heel. + +This sling will hold well, will not chafe the foot, and with it the +snowshoe may be kicked free from the foot or adjusted to the foot in an +instant. + +Should the thongs stretch in moist weather, the sling may be tightened +by simply taking an additional turn or two (without untying) around the +toe loop. + +I believe that lamp-wicking would answer as well as buckskin thongs, +though I have never used it because I have always carried an ample +supply of buckskin. + +The best underclothing for the winter trail is good weight--though not +the heaviest--woolen. Two suits should be carried besides the suit +worn. Underclothing should not fit the body too snugly. It is better +that it should be a size too large than an exact fit. + +The outer shirt should be of flannel, and of good quality, though not +too heavy. + +Hudson's Bay Company trappers wear good-weight moleskin trousers, +almost entirely to the exclusion of other fabrics, and I adopted them +several years ago as superior to any other. They are wind-proof and +warm and are particularly well adapted to the rough work of the trail. + +The ordinary coat is not at all adapted to the northern wilderness +in winter, for it will not protect against drifting snow and driving +blizzard. In its stead the Eskimo adickey should be worn. + +Any seamstress who can cut and make an ordinary work shirt can make an +adickey if your outfitter cannot supply it. This garment is slipped on +over the head like a shirt, and has a hood attached to draw over the +cap as a neck and head protection. The neck opening is large enough to +permit the head to pass through it without the necessity of a buttoned +opening in front, for no matter how closely buttoned a garment may be +drifting snow will find its way in. In length the adickey reaches half +way between hip and knees and is made circular at the bottom. The hood +should be of ample proportion to pull over the cap loosely, with a +drawstring encircling the front by which it may be drawn snugly to the +face. A fringe of muskrat or other fur around the face increases the +comfort, the fur acting as a protection against drifting snow. While +white Hudson's Bay Company kersey cloth is a favorite fabric for this +garment, it may be made of any woolen blanket duffle or similar cloth. + +Over the kersey adickey another adickey of some smooth-surfaced, strong +material, preferably moleskin, should be worn. This outside adickey +should of course be just enough larger than the kersey or blanket +adickey to fit over it easily. The adickeys may be worn singly or +together, according to the demands of the weather. + +A Pontiac shirt, to be worn under the adickeys in extremely cold +weather, should be included in the outfit. This will serve, too, in +camp, when the adickeys are laid aside. + +A round cap of fur or heavy cloth provided with flaps to turn down over +the ears makes the best head protection. The hoods of the two adickeys, +as before stated, should be large enough to draw over this. + +Very important indeed is the question of foot dress. Not only must we +aim to secure the greatest possible freedom and ease in walking, but +the ever-present danger of frostbite must also be guarded against. + +Socks should be of wool, of the home-knit variety, and besides the pair +worn, three or four extra pairs should be carried in the kit. + +Knit socks will not be sufficient protection, however, and where two +or three pairs are worn they are certain to bunch or wrinkle, with +chafed and sore feet as a result. All Hudson's Bay Company stores keep +in stock a white fuzzy woolen duffle of blanket thickness. If you are +making your start from a Post purchase some of this duffle and have +one of the women at the Post make you a pair of knee-length stockings +of the duffle to pull over your knit socks, and two pairs of slippers +of the same material, one just large enough to fit over the foot of +the long stockings, the other just a little larger to fit over all. +These should be made of proper size, to obviate wrinkles. The larger +outfitters carry in stock good wool duffle, and will make these to fit +properly. + +In crisp, cold weather, when the snow never softens or gets moist even +under the midday sun, buckskin moccasins should be the outer footwear. +Ordinary leather will freeze stiff, stop the proper circulation of +blood, and certainly lead to frosted feet. The moccasins should be +made with high tops, reaching above the ankles, with buckskin strings +to wrap around and secure them. Moccasins are light to pack, and it is +always well to carry a couple of extra pairs, to have on hand in case +of emergency. + +Leggings of moleskin (or some other strong, pliable cloth) large enough +to push the foot through protect the legs. These should be knee high, +with a drawstring to secure them just below the knee. Ordinary canvas +leggings will not do. The leggings _must_ be made in one piece, without +side buttons or other fastenings, for otherwise snow will work through +to the great discomfort of the wearer. + +I have a pair of buckskin moccasins sewn to legs of harbor sealskin, +the hair side of the sealskin out. This arrangement is preferable to +separate leggings but sealskin legs are difficult to procure. + +Ordinarily I have found one pair of knit socks, one pair of the long +duffle stockings described above and one pair of the duffle slippers, +worn inside the buckskin moccasins, quite sufficient. + +The knit socks may be done away with entirely and also one pair of +duffle slippers if rabbit-skin socks are to be had. These are worn with +the hair next the foot, and are very warm and soft. + +In weather when the snow softens and becomes wet at midday, buckskin +moccasins will not do, for the least moisture penetrates buckskin. In +such weather sealskin boots are the best foot protection. They are +waterproof, pliable and light. Sealskin boots for this purpose have +neither soles nor heels. They are simply sealskin moccasins with legs, +secured with drawstrings below the knee. These are of Eskimo make, and +not generally obtainable though they may be purchased in Newfoundland. +Oil-tanned moccasins, or larrigans, are the next best moist-snow foot +gear. + +Buckskin mittens with one or two inner pairs of mittens of thick wool +duffle, will protect the hands in the coldest weather. One pair should +be a little smaller than the other, that it may fit snugly into the +larger pair without wrinkles, and the larger pair of a size to fit in +the same manner into the buckskin mittens. When the weather is too warm +for both pairs, one pair may be removed. A fringe of muskrat or other +fur around the wrists of the buckskin mittens protects the wrists from +drifting snow. + +A pad of rabbit-skin worn across the forehead will protect it from +intense cold. Hunting hoods of knit camel's hair worsted are a pretty +good head protection, particularly at night. They cover the whole head +except the face, and may be drawn up over the chin. Mouth and nose must +not be covered, or the breath will quickly form a mass of ice upon the +face. + +One caution, though it may seem a digression, may be made: If the nose +or cheeks become frosted, as will certainly happen sooner or later to +one traveling in a very low temperature, _do not rub snow upon the +frosted part_. Snow rubbed on is pretty certain to fracture and remove +sections of the skin. The Eskimo way is to hold or rub the frosted part +with the bare hand until frost has been removed, and is far superior. + +The clothing outfit above described will be found ample. Extra trousers +or other extra outer garments are not needed. _Let all hang loosely +upon the body._ Nothing should fit snugly. + +A pair of smoked or amber goggles should always be included in the +winter outfit. Amber is more effective than smoked glass, though +ordinarily the latter will do. The goggles should be fastened with a +string to slip over the back of the head. _No metal should touch the +flesh._ + +The best low temperature sleeping bag is one of caribou skin made with +the hair inside. Under ordinary conditions, however, a waterproofed +canvas bag lined with good woolen blankets will do as well, though such +a bag with sufficient blanket lining to give it warmth equal to that +of the caribou skin bag would be much heavier and more bulky than the +latter. A bag lined with four thicknesses of llama wool duffle (that +is, four thicknesses over and four beneath the sleeper), however, +should not weigh more than ten pounds, and would correspond in warmth +to one lined with blankets weighing twenty pounds. + +An A or wedge tent will be found the best model for winter travel. A +sheet-iron tent stove _with bottom_ and telescoping pipe will make the +tent warm and snug. The tent should be fitted with an asbestos ring at +the stovepipe hole as a protection. A pack cloth or tarpaulin will +serve as an adequate and comfortable tent floor. + +It is never safe or advisable for one to travel in the wilderness +alone, for a sprained ankle or broken leg in an isolated region would +be more than likely to result in death. + +In the Hudson Bay country two pounds of flour, one pound of fat pork, +with baking powder, tea and sugar, form the daily ration for a man. It +is well when possible to carry frozen fresh meat, free from bone, with +a proportion of desiccated vegetables to vary the diet. Butter makes +a tasty variety to the fat, for it will remain sweet at this season. +Prunes and chocolate are both worth while. + +Or if the journey is to be extended the menu may be simplified by +the introduction of pemmican and the elimination of other articles. +Pemmican is the best condensed food ever invented for cold weather +work. One pound of pemmican and a quarter pound of pilot biscuit, as +a daily ration, will sustain a man at hard work, though it will prove +a monotonous diet. The above is merely suggested as a basis. It may +be expanded or contracted as circumstances require without disturbing +its mean value. Let it be remembered, however, that ordinary bread and +other moist foodstuffs will freeze as hard as stone. Jerked venison +and desiccated vegetables make tasty and sustaining additions to the +ration, and will not freeze. + +A man is supposed to be able to haul at good speed upon a toboggan a +load equal to his own weight. Therefore two men, each weighing 150 +pounds, should between them haul 300 pounds. Camp equipment, tent axes, +guns, bedding, extra underclothing and all personal belongings of both, +if proper care be exercised in selection, should weigh not to exceed +140 pounds. Add 80 pounds of food, and we have 220 pounds, or a maximum +load of 110 pounds for each. The tent and general camp outfit is indeed +sufficient for four men. It is presumed that the aluminum cooking +outfit previously described will be chosen. Some eliminations, as, +for example, that of the folding baker, might easily be made without +serious loss of comfort. + +To secure the load upon the toboggan, arrange the bags in which it is +packed evenly, taking care that no part of the load extends beyond the +sides of the toboggan. Adjust the tarpaulin or canvas ground cloth +neatly over it. Secure one end of your lash rope to the side rope on +one side at the rear. Bring the other end over and under the side rope +opposite. Cross it back over the load and over and under side rope to +front of next crossbar, and so on to front crossbar, taking slack as +you proceed. From front to rear criss-cross rope in same manner over +load and under side ropes, forming diamonds where the rope crosses +itself on top of load. Bring the end of rope under side rope at rear, +take in all slack and tie. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +WITH DOGS AND KOMATIK + + +In considering equipment for dog and sledge traveling, we must +constantly bear in mind the necessity of keeping down weight and +bulk. Not long since, while visiting the establishment of a New York +City outfitter, I saw an equipment which a sportsman ambitious for +experience with dogs and komatik (sledge) had selected for a month's +journey which he was about to undertake. Exclusive of provisions there +was enough material to weight down four eight-dog teams. Among other +things was a specially designed tent stove that would have tipped the +scales at upwards of one hundred pounds. + +The would-be traveler declared with pride that he "did not intend to +have cold camps." It certainly gave me "cold feet" to contemplate his +outfit. It was the most ridiculous and impracticable conglomerate +aggregation of camping material that I have ever seen put together, +and I doubt if the would-be traveler ever found a sufficient number of +dogs at any one point to transport it. + +While it is the aim of every experienced camper to obtain the greatest +degree of comfort of which circumstances will admit, the voyager with +dogs cannot hope to carry with him the luxuries of a metropolitan +hotel, and one soon learns how little after all is really necessary to +make one comfortable. + +How much weight a team of eight good dogs can haul depends upon the +character of the country and the condition of the snow or ice. Under +very favorable conditions I have seen such a team make good progress +with twelve hundred pounds. Ordinarily, however, eight hundred pounds +is a full load, and if much rough ice, hilly country or soft snow is +encountered six hundred pounds will be found all too heavy. I have +heard of cases, when traveling was exceptionally good, of dogs covering +upwards of one hundred miles a day. The biggest day's travel I ever +made with dogs was sixty miles, but often I have toiled day after day, +pulling and hauling with the animals at the traces, lifting the komatik +over rough places, or packing a trail for the team with my snowshoes, +to find myself rewarded with less than ten miles when camping time +arrived. + +In selecting outfit the region to be visited will be a factor to take +into consideration. It would be quite impossible to discuss adequately +in a single chapter all the phases of dog travel to be provided for. +We shall therefore leave out of consideration polar outfitting, or +outfitting for other unusual work, which the reader of this will +scarcely be likely to undertake. + +The clothing suggested in the chapter on snowshoe and toboggan travel +is equally well suited to travel with dogs and komatik. Should the +voyager's ambition, however, draw him within the sub-arctic regions or +across the Arctic Circle some additional protection will be needed. + +In the far Arctic the natives wear trousers of either polar bear +skin or caribou skin, with an upper garment of caribou skin called, +in Greenland, the "kulutar;" in Labrador, the "kulutuk." The only +difference between the adickey and the kulutuk is that the one is made +of cloth, the other of caribou skin. In Ungava I supplied myself with +caribou skin trousers, which, as is the custom there, I drew on over my +moleskin trousers in windy or intensely cold weather. + +The kulutuk takes the place of the moleskin adickey. That is to +say, the kersey adickey worn under the kulutuk will be found ample +protection in any weather, and often the kulutuk of itself will be +found sufficient. + +Kulutuk and skin trousers are worn hair side out. Were they worn with +the hairy side in, they would accumulate moisture exuded by the body, +and the moisture would freeze, presently transforming the hair into a +mass of ice. A friend of mine going to the Arctic for the first time +as a member of one of Peary's early Greenland expeditions, turned his +kulutuk inside out and donned it with the hairy side next the body. +The Eskimos laughed, and resenting their levity he assured them it was +much warmer worn in that manner than as they wore it. "No," said one +of them, "if it were warmer worn that way the animals would wear their +fur inside." My friend quickly learned by experience the logic of the +Eskimo's argument. + +Deerskin kulutuk and trousers are not easily purchased, though along +any coast where seals are captured similar garments of sealskin may be +procured, which, though not equal to deerskin garments, answer very +well. The skin of the young harbor seal (the ranger seal) is best for +the purpose, as skins of other species are too thick and heavy. When +made of sealskin the upper garment is called a "netsek." + +I discovered when traveling among them that some of the Moravian +missionaries of the Labrador coast wore a buckskin suit under their +ordinary trousers and outer shirt. Such a suit is much lighter than +deerskin trousers and kulutuk, and serves nearly as well. It is not +difficult to purchase buckskin from which one may have such a suit +made. It is wind-proof and very light. + +All skin garments, including moccasins, should be sewn with animal +sinew. Ordinary thread will quickly break out and will not do. +Thread-sewn moccasins are factory-made, and will give very little +service. + +The types of snowshoes suggested in the chapter on snowshoe and +toboggan travel are the types also best suited to dog and komatik work. +Long snowshoes would be very much in the way when one has to go to the +traces and haul with the dogs or lift and assist the komatik over rough +places; and this becomes the rule rather than the exception as one goes +North. + +Let me insist that the web should be of good caribou babiche, and not +the ordinary rawhide used in many of the snowshoes offered for sale. +The former will not stretch when wet, while the latter will stretch and +bag so badly as to render the snowshoe practically useless. + +It is well to wrap the frame on either side where the babiche is +drawn around it, with buckskin or sealskin. Otherwise even a slight +crust upon the snow will in time cut the babiche strands. Wrapping the +snowshoe in this manner will at least double its life. + +What was said in reference to tent, small sheet-iron stove and general +camp and cooking outfit in the previous chapter will apply here, as +well as directions heretofore given for packing in waterproof bags. In +selecting the sleeping bag, give first preference to one of deerskin. + +In a barren region where firewood is not to be had, it will be +necessary to carry an alcohol or kerosene burner and stock of fuel. The +former is preferable on account of the low freezing point of alcohol. +Alcohol or oil should be secured in tin cases. It is regularly put up +in this way by dealers. + +In such a region, too, it may be necessary to carry snow knives with +which to cut blocks of snow for the erection of snow igloos as shelter. +These knives resemble somewhat the machete. One cannot, however, learn +to build a snow igloo properly without long practice. This phase of +the work is merely referred to as interesting; for anyone traveling +in a country where snow house shelter is necessary will secure the +assistance of a native, who will attend to proper sledge outfitting at +the point of departure. + +On regular lines of dog travel opportunities to renew the provision +supply will frequently occur, and cabins for night shelter will be +found. Therefore the food outfit will depend upon the country to be +traversed. Where long stretches occur between supply points, however, +fat pork, pilot bread, tea and sugar should form the basis. The very +best possible food, however, for this work is pemmican, pilot bread, +tea and sugar. Of course a little coffee may be carried, but it is +bulky. + +The traveler will make his selection carefully, building around pork, +pilot bread and pemmican with other articles of food like desiccated +vegetables from which water has been eliminated. Too much salt meat +opens the door to scurvy, unless sufficient variation in the way of +vegetables, fish, or fresh meat is introduced. Dessicated cranberries +are an excellent preventive. A man can do good hard work day in and day +out, as already stated, upon one pound of pemmican and a quarter pound +of pilot bread as a daily ration, and such a ration offers no danger of +scurvy. + +Dog pemmican is the best dog food, and the lightest, for dogs will +do pretty well upon one pound of pemmican each a day. To do well +the animals should be given plenty of fat, when pemmican is not +available, though not a clear fat diet, for that will make them sick. +Three-quarters of a pound of fat and three-quarters of a pound of meat +or fish is an ordinary ration. Dogs are fed but once a day--at night. + +The number of dogs in a team varies, but the average team is composed +of seven or eight. Eight or nine is the most economical number so far +as results are concerned. + +In the Northwest dogs are harnessed tandem. This is the white man's +method. In the Northeast they are harnessed fan fashion--the Eskimo +method. That is to say, each dog has an individual trace secured to +the end of a single thong, leading out from the bow of the komatik and +called the bridle. The individual traces are of various lengths. The +dog with the longest trace is the leader of the pack, and particularly +trained to respond to the driver's directions. The other dogs will +follow his lead. + +For open country and sea ice travel the Eskimo method is probably best, +as the work is more evenly distributed and the driver can always tell +whether each dog is doing his share of the work, but for narrow trails +and woods travel the tandem method is more practicable. + +Dogs are good, bad and indifferent. One seldom has an opportunity +to pick one's dogs discriminately, and rarely may one purchase them +outright unless contracted for a year in advance, for the native dog +owner seldom maintains animals in excess of his requirements in the +ordinary routine of his life. The traveler will usually be able, +however, to hire a team by employing the owner to drive it, and the +owner of a team will get much more work out of his dogs than a stranger +to the dogs can hope to do. + +At least a year's experience is necessary to enable a white man to +handle a dog team with anything approaching efficiency, and even then +one cannot hope to approach the performance of an Eskimo. The failure +to enlist Eskimos as dog drivers has been the real cause of the failure +of many an Arctic expedition. + +It is advised, then, that the traveler employ at so much per day or for +the trip driver and dogs. It is an unsafe experiment to start off with +a dog team unattended by an experienced man. The owner of the team will +supply also the necessary dog harness, his own dog whip and general dog +traveling paraphernalia, including the komatik. + +Sledges or komatiks vary in different localities as to width, length +and minor methods of construction. The average komatik is two +feet wide and ten feet long but as stated, they vary in different +localities, a uniform width being maintained to suit the local +conditions of the region in which they are used. For example, wide and +comparatively short komatiks are employed in Quebec, while the Ungava +komatik is but sixteen inches wide. These latter komatiks are usually +fifteen or sixteen feet in length, however. The runners stand ten +inches high. This is, in fact, the heaviest and most efficient komatik +I have ever seen. Each runner is made from a single piece of timber +and is from two and one-half to three inches thick. It is designed for +the roughest possible use, and is, I believe, better adapted to this +purpose than the Greenland komatik because more substantially built. +The latter is peculiar in that it has upstands at the rear for guiding +it. + +Crossbars, extending an inch or so on either side of the runners and +from one to two inches apart, are lashed into place with rawhide. When +the rawhide shrinks the komatik becomes firm. Iron fastenings being +rigid would break too readily, particularly in intense cold, to be +reliable. + +The traveler will do well, therefore, to purchase if he does not hire +his komatik at the point of departure, as in so doing he will secure +one of correct design for the region to be traversed. + +It is well to have a box made the width of the komatik two or three +feet long, and about fourteen inches deep to lash upon the rear end of +the komatik in which cooking utensils and a portion of the food supply, +as well as odds and ends, may be carried. This should be supplied with +a hinged cover, and hook or clasp by which the cover may be securely +fastened down. + +The best lash for securing the load in position is one of sealskin, +though ordinary hemp rope will do. Before lashing, the tarpaulin should +be neatly folded over the top of load to protect it. + +One end of the lash is secured to an end of the crossbar at the forward +end of the load, brought across the load and under the other end, then +across, skipping a couple of crossbars, and back again skipping a couple +of crossbars, thus threading it from side to side under the ends of +every second or third crossbar to the rear bar, where it is brought +across the load to the opposite end of this crossbar and crisscrossed +across the load again to the forward crossbar to be tied. + + +THE END + + + + +Transcriber's note: + +Inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been retained. +Punctuation has been normalized. + +The following errors have been corrected: + + * p. 46 "two or three hundreds" fixed to "... hundred" + * p. 51 Chapter VII: fixed numbering of topics + * p. 72 carelessless -> carelessness + * p. 85 change A_1 to A' to match the illustration + * p. 87 graps -> grasps + * p. 88 "betwee nthem" -> "between them" + * p. 90 fixed period instead of comma + * p. 90 graps -> grasps + * p. 119 removed redundant "of" + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Packing and Portaging, by Dillon Wallace + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PACKING AND PORTAGING *** + +***** This file should be named 44720.txt or 44720.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/4/4/7/2/44720/ + +Produced by Itay Perl and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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