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diff --git a/old/44720.txt b/old/44720.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c7f56e2 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/44720.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3138 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Packing and Portaging, by Dillon Wallace + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license + + +Title: Packing and Portaging + +Author: Dillon Wallace + +Release Date: January 20, 2014 [EBook #44720] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PACKING AND PORTAGING *** + + + + +Produced by Itay Perl and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + +Transcriber's Note: + + Words printed in italics are noted with underscores: _italics_. + Words printed in small-caps have been converted to ALL-CAPS. + + + + +PACKING AND PORTAGING + + + + + PACKING AND + PORTAGING + + BY + DILLON WALLACE + + Author of "The Lure of the Labrador Wild," "The + Long Labrador Trail," "Saddle and Camp in + the Rockies," "Across the Mexican + Sierras," etc. + + [Illustration: OUTING HANDBOOKS] + + [Illustration] + + NEW YORK + OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY + MCMXII + + + + + COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY + OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY + + All rights reserved + + + + +CONTENTS + + + CHAPTER PAGE + + I. PACKING AND THE OUTFIT 9 + + II. THE CANOE AND ITS EQUIPMENT 12 + + III. CAMP EQUIPMENT FOR THE CANOE TRIP 15 + + IV. PERSONAL EQUIPMENT 23 + + V. FOOD 31 + + VI. THE PORTAGE 38 + + VII. TRAVEL WITH SADDLE AND PACK ANIMALS 51 + + VIII. SADDLE AND PACK EQUIPMENT 56 + + IX. PERSONAL OUTFIT FOR THE SADDLE 64 + + X. ADJUSTING THE PACK 71 + + XI. SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES 77 + + XII. TRAVELING WITHOUT A PACK HORSE 101 + + XIII. AFOOT IN SUMMER 106 + + XIV. WITH SNOWSHOES AND TOBOGGAN 110 + + XV. WITH DOGS AND KOMATIK 123 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + PAGE + + Method of Slinging Load on Aparejo 58, 59 + + Sling for Racking on Crosstree Saddle 74 + + Squaw or Crosstree Hitch 79, 80 + + The Crosstree Diamond Hitch 82, 83 + + United States Army Diamond Hitch 85, 86 + + Lifting Hitch 93, 94 + + Stirrup Hitch 96 + + Saddle Hitch 97 + + + + +PACKING AND PORTAGING + + + + +CHAPTER I + +PACKING AND THE OUTFIT + + +Ordinarily the verb _to pack_ means to stow articles snugly into +receptacles, but in the parlance of the trail it often means to carry +or transport the articles from place to place. The _pack_ in the +language of the trail is the load a man or horse carries. + +Likewise, a _portage_ on a canoe route is a break between navigable +waters, over which canoe and outfit must be carried; or the word may be +used as a verb, and one may say, "I will portage the canoe," meaning "I +will carry the canoe." In the course of the following pages these terms +will doubtless all be used in their various significations. + +Save for the few who are able to employ a retinue of professional +guides and packers to attend to the details of transportation, the +one chief problem that confronts the wilderness traveler is that of +how to reduce the weight of his outfit to the minimum with the least +possible sacrifice of comfort. It is only the veriest tenderfoot that +deliberately endures hardships or discomforts where hardships and +discomforts are unnecessary. Experienced wilderness travelers always +make themselves as comfortable as conditions will permit, and there is +no reason why one who hits the trail for sport, recreation or health +should do otherwise. + +In a description, then, of the methods of packing and transporting +outfits the tenderfoot and even the man whose feet are becoming +calloused may welcome some hints as to the selection of compact, light, +but, at the same time, efficient outfits. These hints on outfitting, +therefore, I shall give, leaving out of consideration the details of +camp making, camp cookery and those phases of woodcraft that have no +direct bearing upon the prime question of packing and transportation on +the trail. + +Let us classify the various methods of wilderness travel under the +following heads: 1. By Canoe; 2. With Saddle and Pack Animals; 3. Afoot +in Summer; 4. On Snowshoes; 5. With Dogs and Sledge. Taking these in +order, and giving our attention first to canoe travel, it will be +found convenient further to subdivide this branch of the subject and +discuss in order: (a) The Canoe and its Equipment; (b) Camp Equipment +for a Canoe Trip; (c) Personal Equipment; (d) Food; (e) The Portage. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +THE CANOE AND ITS EQUIPMENT + + +A sixteen-foot canoe with a width of at least 33 inches and a depth +of at least 12 inches will accommodate two men, an adequate camping +outfit and a full ten weeks' provisions very nicely, and at the same +time not lie too deep in the water. A fifteen-foot canoe, unless it +has a beam of at least 35 inches and a depth of 12 inches or more, is +unsuitable. Three men with their outfit and provisions will require an +eighteen-foot canoe with a width of 35 inches or more and a depth of +no less than 13 inches, or a seventeen-foot canoe with a width of 37 +inches and 13 inches deep. The latter size is lighter by from ten to +fifteen pounds than the former, while the displacement is about equal. + +The best all-around canoe for cruising and hard usage is the +canvas-covered cedar canoe. Both ribs and planking should be of cedar, +and only full length planks should enter into the construction. +Where short planking is used the canoe will sooner or later become +hogged--that is, the ends will sag downward from the middle. + +In Canada the "Peterborough" canoe is more largely used than the +canvas-covered. These are to be had in both basswood and cedar. Cedar +is brittle, while basswood is tough, but the latter absorbs water +more readily than the former and in time will become more or less +waterlogged. + +Cruising canoes should be supplied with a middle thwart for convenient +portaging. Any canoe larger than sixteen feet should have three +thwarts. To lighten weight on the portage, and provide more room +for storing outfit, it is advisable to remove the cane seats with +which canvas canoes are usually provided. This can be readily done +by unscrewing the nuts beneath the gunwale which hold the seats in +position. + +Good strong paddles--sufficiently strong to withstand the heavy strain +to which cruising paddles are put--should be selected. On the portage +they must bear the full weight of the canoe; they will frequently be +utilized in poling up stream against stiff currents; and in running +rapids they will be subjected to rough usage. On extended cruises it is +advisable to carry one spare paddle to take the place of one that may +be rendered useless. + +Experienced canoemen pole up minor rapids. Poles for this purpose +can usually be cut at the point where they are needed, but pole +"shoes"--that is, spikes fitted with ferrules--to fit on the ends of +poles are a necessary adjunct to the outfit where poling is to be done. +Without shoes to hold the pole firmly on the bottom of the stream the +pole may slip and pitch the canoeman overboard. The ferrules should be +punctured with at least two nail holes, by which they may be secured to +the poles, and a few nails should be carried for this purpose. + +A hundred feet or so of half-inch rope should also be provided, to be +used as a tracking line and the various other uses for which rope may +be required. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +CAMP EQUIPMENT FOR A CANOE TRIP + + +Personal likes and prejudices have much to do with the form of tent +chosen. My own preference is for either the "A" or wedge tent, with the +Hudson's Bay model as second choice, for general utility. Either of +these is particularly adapted also to winter travel where the tent must +often be pitched upon the snow. If, however, the tent is only to be +used in summer, and particularly in canoe travel where a light, easily +erected model is desired, the Frazer tent is both ideal for comfort and +is an exceedingly light weight model for portaging. + +Duck or drill tents are altogether too heavy and quite out of date. +They soak water and are an abomination on the portage. The best tent is +one of balloon silk, _tanalite_, or of extra light green waterproofed +tent cloth. The balloon silk tent is very slightly heavier than either +of the others, but is exceedingly durable. For instance, a 7-1/3 x +7-1/3 foot "A" tent of either tanalite or extra light green waterproof +tent cloth, fitted with sod cloth, complete, weighs eight pounds, +while a similar tent of waterproof balloon silk weighs nine pounds. A +Hudson's Bay model, 6 x 9 feet, weighs respectively seven and seven and +one-half pounds. + +These three cloths are not only waterproof and practically rot proof, +but do not soak water, which is a feature for consideration where much +portaging is to be done and camp is moved almost daily. + +Some dealers recommend that customers going into a fly or mosquito +country have the tent door fitted with bobbinet. The idea is good, but +cheese cloth is much cheaper and incomparably better than bobbinet. + +The cheese-cloth door should be made rather full, and divided at the +center from tent peak to ground, with numerous tie strings to bring the +edges tight together when in use, and other strings or tapes on either +side, where it is attached to the tent, to reef or roll and tie it back +out of the way when not needed. + +When purchasing a light-weight tent, see that the dealer supplies a bag +of proper size in which to pack it. + +A pack cloth 6 x 7 feet in size, of brown waterproof canvas weighing +about 3-1/2 pounds, makes an excellent covering for the tent floor +at night. On the portage blankets and odds and ends will be packed +and carried on it. If one end and the two sides of the pack cloth are +fitted with snap buttons it may be converted into a snug sleeping bag +with a pair of blankets folded lengthwise, the bottom and sides of the +blanket secured with blanket safety pins as a lining for the bag. + +My standby for summer camping is a fine all-wool gray blanket 72 x 78 +inches in size and weighing 5-1/2 pounds. This I have found sufficient +even in frosty autumn weather--always, in fact, until the weather grows +cold enough to freeze streams and close them to canoe navigation. Used +as a lining for the improvised pack cloth sleeping bag, this blanket is +quite bedding enough and makes an exceedingly comfortable bed, too. + +A three-quarter axe with a 24- or 28-inch handle makes a mighty good +camp axe. A full axe is heavy and inconvenient to portage and the +lighter axe will serve every purpose in any country at any time. +Personally I favor the Hudson's Bay axe. This may be had fitted either +with a 24-inch or 18-inch handle. In the two-party outfit which we +are discussing there should be two axes, one of which may be fitted +with the shorter handle, but the other should have at least a 24- and +preferably a 28-inch handle. Every axe should have a leather sheath +or scabbard for convenient packing. The so-called pocket axes are too +small to be of practical use. The camper does not wish to miss the +luxury of the big evening camp-fire, and he can never provide for it +with a small hatchet or toy pocket axe. + +Cooking utensils of aluminum alloy are the lightest and best for the +trail. Tin and iron will rust, enamel ware will chip, and unalloyed +aluminum is too soft and bends out of shape. The best sporting goods +dealers carry complete outfits of aluminum alloy. I have used them in +the frigid North and in the tropics, in canoe, sledging, tramping and +horseback journeys, and can recommend them unequivocally, save perhaps +the frying pan. + +The two-man cooking and dining outfit should contain the following +utensils: + + 1 Pot with cover 7 x 6-1/2 inches, capacity three quarts. + 1 Coffee pot 6 x 6-1/8 inches, capacity two quarts. + 1 Steel frying pan 9-7/8 x 2 inches, with folding handle. + 1 Pan 9 x 3 inches, with folding handle, for mixing- and dish-pan. + 2 Plates 8-7/8 inches diameter. + 2 Cups. + 2 Aluminum alloy forks. + 2 Dessert spoons. + 1 Large cooking spoon. + 1 Dish mop. + 2 Dish towels. + +The regular aluminum alloy cup is too small for practical camp use. +There is an aluminum bowl, however, holding one pint, but without a +handle. This is about the right size for a practical cup, and I have a +handle riveted on it and use it as a cup. The top only of the handle +should be attached, that the cups may set one inside the other. The +heat conducting quality of aluminum makes it a question whether or not +enamel cups are not preferable. + +To pack the outfit snugly, set the mixing pan into the frying pan, the +handles of both pans folded, place the plates, one on top of the other, +in the mixing pan, the cooking pot on top of these, and the coffee pot +inside the cooking pot. The cups will fit in the coffee pot. The weight +of this outfit complete is 5-1/2 pounds. + +A waterproof canvas bag of proper size should be provided in which to +pack the utensils. Forks and spoons, wrapped in a dish towel, will fit +nicely in the canvas bag alongside the pots. + +_Waterproof_ canvas is suggested for the bag, not to protect the +utensils but because anything but waterproofed material will absorb +moisture and become watersoaked in rainy weather, adding materially to +the weight of the outfit. + +One of the handiest aids to baking is the aluminum reflecting baker. +An aluminum baker 16 x 18 inches when open, folds to a package 12 x 18 +inches and about two inches thick, and fitted into a waterproof canvas +case weighs, case and all, about four pounds. + +Broilers, fire irons, fire blowers or inspirators, as they are +sometimes called, and many other things that are convenient enough but +quite unnecessary, should never burden the outfit. Even though the +weight of some of them may be insignificant, each additional claptrap +makes one more thing to look after. There are a thousand and one +claptraps, indeed, that outfitters offer, but which do not possess +sufficient advantage to pay for the care and labor of transportation, +and my advice is, leave them out, one and all. + +Outfitters supply small packing bags of proper size to fit, one on top +of another, into larger waterproof canvas bags. These small bags are +made preferably of balloon silk. By using them the whole outfit may be +snugly and safely packed for the portage. + +In one of these small bags keep the general supply of matches, though +each canoeist should carry a separate supply for emergency in his +individual kit. + +In like manner two or three cakes of soap should be packed in another +small bag. Floating soap is less likely to be lost than soap that +sinks. + +A dozen candles will be quite enough. These if packed in a tin box of +proper size will not be broken. + +Repair kits should be provided. A file for sharpening axes and a +whetstone for general use are of the first importance. Include also a +pair of pincers, a ball of stout twine and a few feet of copper wire. A +tool haft or handle with a variety of small tools inside is convenient. +Either a stick of canoe cement, a small supply of marine glue, or +a canoe repair outfit such as canoe manufacturers put up and which +contain canvas, white lead, copper tacks, calor and varnish will be +found a valuable adjunct to the outfit should the canoe become damaged. +This tool and repair equipment should be packed in a strong canvas bag +small enough to drop into the larger nine-inch waterproof bag. + +A small leather medicine case with vials containing, in tabloid form, a +cathartic, an astringent (lead and opium pills are good) and bichloride +of mercury, suffices for the drug supply. Surgical necessities are: +Some antiseptic bandages, a package of linen gauze, a spool of +adhesive plaster and one-eighth pound of absorbent cotton, wrapped in +oiled silk. In addition most campers find it convenient to have in +their personal outfit a pair of small scissors. These are absolutely +necessary if one is to put on a bandage properly. The regular surgical +scissors, the two blades of which hook together at the center, are the +most convenient sort, both to use and to carry, and have the keenest +edge. + +A pair of tweezers takes up but little room and is useful for +extracting splinters or for holding a wad of absorbent cotton in +swabbing out a wound, as cotton will, of course, become septic if held +in the fingers. + +A small scalpel is better than the knife blade for opening up an +infection, as it is more convenient to handle and will make a deep +short incision when desired. These will all be packed in one of the +small balloon silk bags. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +PERSONAL EQUIPMENT + + +Each canoeist should have a personal kit or duffle bag of waterproof +canvas. These may be purchased from outfitters and are usually 36 +inches deep and of 12, 15, 18 or 21 inches diameter. The 12-inch +bag, however, is amply large to accommodate all one needs in the way +of clothing and other personal gear. This, as well as every other +waterproof canvas packing bag mentioned, excepting the cooking kit bag, +should be supplied with a handle on the bottom and one on the side. +These bags not only keep the contents dry, but, as previously stated, +do not absorb moisture to add to the weight, a very essential feature +where every unnecessary pound must be eliminated. I was once capsized +in a rapid and my duffle bag lay half a day in the water before it was +recovered. The contents were perfectly dry. + +One suit of medium weight woolen underclothing in addition to the suit +worn is ample for a short trip. Four extra pairs of thick woolen socks +should be provided--the home-knit kind. An excellent material for +trousers to be worn on the trail is moleskin, though for midsummer wear +a good quality khaki is first rate. Moleskin, however, will withstand +the hardest usage and to my mind is superior to khaki or any other +material where wading is necessary and on cold or rainy days, as it is +very nearly windproof. A good leather belt should be worn, even though +suspenders support the trousers. + +The outer shirt should be of light weight gray or brown flannel and +provided with pockets. A blue flannel shirt of the best quality is all +right. The cheaper qualities of blue crock, and this feature makes +them objectionable. If the outer shirt is too heavy it will be found +cumbersome under the exertion of the portage. + +A large, roomy Pontiac shirt to slip over the outer shirt and use as a +sweater is much preferable to a sweater on the trail. It is windproof +and warm. Do not take a coat--the Pontiac shirt will be both coat and +sweater. A coat is always in the way on a canoe trip and makes the pack +that much heavier. + +A pair of low leather or canvas wading shoes for river work and +larrigans or shoe pacs for ordinary wear, large enough to admit two +pairs of woolen socks, are best suited to canoeing. Heavy, hobnailed +mountaineer shoes or boots are not in place here. + +Heavy German socks, supplied with garter and clasp to hold them in +position, are better than canvas leggings, and protect the legs from +chill at times when wading is necessary in icy waters. + +Any kind of an old slouch hat is suitable. + +Some canoeists take with them a suit of featherweight oilskin. +Personally I have never worn rainproof garments when canoeing. Once +I carried a so-called waterproof coat, but it was not waterproof. It +leaked water like a sieve, and was no protection even from the gentlest +shower. I am inclined, however, to favor featherweight oilskins, though +not while portaging--they would be found too warm--but when paddling in +rainy weather, or to wear on rainy days about camp. + +If the trip is to extend into a black fly or mosquito region, +protection against the insects should be provided. A head net of black +bobbinet that will set down upon the shoulders, with strings to tie +under the arms, is about the best arrangement for the head. Old loose +kid gloves, with the fingers cut off, and farmers' satin elbow sleeves +to fit under the wrist bands of the outer shirt will protect the +wrists and hands. The armlets should be well and tightly sewn upon the +gloves, for black flies are not content to attack where they alight, +and will explore for the slightest opening and discover some undefended +spot. They are, too, a hundred times more vicious than mosquitoes. + +There are many receipts for fly dope, but in a half hour after +application perspiration will eliminate the virtue of most mixtures and +a renewed application must be made. Nessmuk's receipt is perhaps as +good as any, and the formula is as follows: + + Oil of pine tar 3 parts + Castor oil 2 parts + Oil of pennyroyal 1 part + +If when you were a child your father held your nose as an inducement +for you to open your mouth while your mother poured castor oil down +your throat, the odor of the castor oil rising above the odors of the +other ingredients will revive sad memories. Indeed it is claimed for +this mixture that the dead will rise and flee from its compounded odor +as they would flee from eternal torment. It certainly should ward off +such little creatures as black flies and mosquitoes. + +Another effective mixture is: + + Oil of tar 3 parts + Sweet oil 3 parts + Oil of pennyroyal 1 part + Carbolic acid 3 per cent. + +An Indian advised me once to carry a fat salt pork rind in my pocket, +and now and again rub the greasy side upon face and hands. I tried it +and found it nearly as good as the dopes. + +Unless one penetrates, however, far north In Canada during black fly +season these extraordinary precautions will scarcely be necessary. +There Is nowhere In the United States a region where black flies are +really very bad (though perhaps I am drawing invidious comparisons in +making the statement), and even in interior Newfoundland they are, +compared with the farther north, tame and rather inoffensive though +always troublesome. + +The choice of fishing tackle, guns and arms depends largely upon +personal taste. Steel rods of the best quality will serve better than +split bamboo on an extended trip where one, continuously on the portage +trail, is often unable to properly dry the tackle. The steady soaking +of a split bamboo rod for a week is likely to loosen the sections and +injure a fine rod. A waterproof canvas or pantasote case is the right +sort for the rod--leather cases are unpractical on a cruising trip. + +Leather gun cases, too, under like circumstances will become +watersoaked, and under any circumstances they are unnecessarily heavy. +Use canvas cases therefore in consideration for your back. They are +light and in a season of rain immeasurably better than leather. + +Economize, also, on ammunition. Do your target practice before you hit +the trail. A hunter that cannot get his limit of big game with twenty +rifle cartridges is an unsafe individual to turn loose in the woods. + +For spruce grouse, ptarmigan and other small game a ten-inch barrel, +22-caliber single-shot pistol is an excellent arm, provided one has had +some previous experience in its use. It is not a burden on the belt, +and a handful of cartridges in the pocket are not noticed. + +Pack your cartridges in a strong canvas bag, your gun grease and +accessories in another receptacle. + +On the belt also carry a broad-pointed four-inch blade skinning knife +of the ordinary butcher knife shape. This will be your table knife, as +well as cooking and general utility knife. + +In the pocket carry a stout jackknife, a waterproof matchbox, always +kept well filled, and a compass. + +A film camera is more practical for the trail than a plate camera for +many reasons, one of which is weight. Plates are heavy and easily +broken. It is well to have each roll of films put up separately in +a sealed, water-tight tin. Dealers will supply them thus at five +cents extra for each film roll. A waterproof pantasote case, too, is +better than leather, for leather in a long-continued rain will become +watersoaked, as before stated. + +If a plate camera is carried the plates may be packed in a small light +wooden box--a starch box, for instance. The box will protect them under +ordinary circumstances. Film rolls, however, may be carried in a small +canvas bag that will slip into one of the larger waterproof bags. + +My object in outlining outfit is rather to emphasize the possibilities +of selecting a light and efficient outfit that may be easily packed +and transported on the trail, than to evolve an infallible check list; +therefore I shall not attempt to name in detail toilet articles, +tobacco and odds and ends. Take nothing, however, save those things you +will surely find occasion to use, unless I may suggest an extra pipe, +should your pipe be lost. A small balloon silk bag will hold them, +together with a sewing case containing needles, thread, patches and +some safety pins. Another will hold the hand towels and hand soap in +daily use, while an extra hand towel may be stowed in your duffle bag. + +In concluding this chapter it may be pertinent to say that the novice +on the trail is pretty certain to burden himself with many things he +will seldom or never use. Take your outfitter into your confidence. +Tell him what sort of a trip you contemplate and he will advise you. +First-class outfitters are usually practical out-of-door men and +camping experts. They have made an extended study of the subject, for +it is part of their business to do so. Therefore, in selecting outfit, +it is both safe and wise to rely upon the advice of any responsible +outfitter. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +FOOD + + +The true wilderness voyager is willing to endure some discomforts on +the trail, to work hard and submit to black flies and other pests, but +as a reward he usually demands satisfying meals. There is, indeed, no +reason for him to deny himself a variety and a plenty, unless his trip +is to extend into months. Weight on the portage trail is always the +consideration that cuts down the ration. Packing on one's back a ration +to be used two or three months hence is discouraging. + +I have evolved a two-week food supply for two men, based upon the +United States army ration, varied as the result of my own experiences +have dictated. It offers not only great variety, but is an exceedingly +bountiful ration even for hungry men. Personal taste will suggest some +eliminations or substitutions that may be made without material loss +or change in weight. If there is certainty of catching fish or killing +game, or if opportunity offers for purchasing fresh supplies along +the trail, reductions in quantity may be made accordingly. For each +additional man, or for any period beyond two weeks, a proportionate +increase in quantity may be made. + + Bacon, 6 pounds. + Salt fat pork, 2 pounds. + Ham or canned meats, 5 pounds. + "Truegg" (egg powder), 1 pound (equals 4 dozen eggs.) + "Trucream" (milk powder), 1-1/2 pounds. + "Crisco," 3 pounds, (2 cans). + Fresh bread, 2 pounds. + Flour, 12 pounds. + Corn meal (yellow), 1 pound. + Rolled oats, 1 pound. + Rice, 1 pound. + Baking powder, 1/2 pound. + Potatoes (Dehydrated) riced, 2 pounds (equals 14 lbs. fresh potatoes). + Potatoes (Dehydrated) sliced, 1 pound (equals 7 lbs. fresh potatoes). + Carrots (Dehydrated), 1/4 pound (equals 3 lbs. fresh carrots). + Onions (Dehydrated), 1/4 pound (equals 3-3/4 lbs. fresh onions). + Cranberries (Dehydrated), 1/4 pound (equals 2-1/2 qts. fresh fruit). + Beans, 2 pounds. + Green peas (Dehydrated), 1/4 pound (equals 1-1/4 lbs. fresh peas). + Coffee (ground), 2 pounds. + Tea, 1/2 pound. + Cocoa, 1/2 pound. + Sugar (granulated), 5 pounds. + Preserves, 1 pound. + Lemons, 1/2 dozen. + Lime tablets, 1/2 pound. + Prunes (stoned), 1 pound. + Raisins, 1 pound. + Salt, 1 pound. + Pepper, 1/4 ounce. + +This gives each man a nominal ration of 14-1/2 pounds a week, or about +two pounds a day. In reality, however, it is more bountiful than the +summer garrison ration and far more liberal than the summer marching +ration of the army. This is brought about by the pretty general +elimination of water, largely through the substitution of dehydrated +vegetables and fruits for fresh and canned goods. The dehydrated +products designated are in every particular equal to fresh products and +far superior to canned goods. Dehydrated vegetables possess all the +qualities, in fact, of fresh vegetables, with only the large percentage +of water removed. Water is introduced restoring them to original form +usually by boiling. No chemical is used as a preservative as is the +case with all dried vegetables put up by foreign manufacturers. + +It will be noticed that butter has been omitted and that "Crisco" has +been introduced in the place of lard and to be used in cooking instead +of butter. Crisco is a product of edible vegetable oils. It has the +appearance of lard but can be heated to a much higher temperature +without burning, is fully equal to butter when used as shortening, and +dough bread, fish or other articles of food fried in it will not absorb +it so readily as they will lard, nor will it transmit the flavor of +one food to another. For example, fish may be fried in Crisco, and +dough bread or anything else fried in the same Crisco will have not the +slightest flavor of fish. It will keep fresh and sweet under conditions +that turn lard and butter rancid. Butter quickly becomes strong, and +the heat of the sun keeps it in an oily, unpalatable condition, even +when packed in air-tight tins. The most lavish user of butter will +discover that it is no hardship to go without it when in camp. Crisco, +put up in handy, friction-top cans, can be purchased from nearly any +grocer. + +Coffee should be carried in friction-top tins. On extended trips +coffee is too bulky to carry save as a special treat. A pound of tea +will go as far as many pounds of coffee; therefore on trips extending +beyond three or four weeks the proportion of tea should be increased +and that of coffee diminished. On short trips, however, such as we are +discussing, there is no reason and most Americans usually prefer it +even when in camp. + +Each article of food should have its individual bag, to fit into one +of the larger waterproof canvas bags described, though the bacon and +fat pork, each piece wrapped in paraffin (waxed) paper, may be packed +in one bag. Paraffin paper will protect other packages in the bag from +grease. Several articles of small bulk and weight such as dehydrated +carrots, onions, cranberries and green peas each in its original +package or a small muslin bag suitable in size may be carried in a +single balloon silk bag. The small bags containing such articles as are +not in daily and frequent use should be stowed in the bottoms of the +canvas bags, while those in constant demand should be at the top where +they can be had without unpacking the entire bag. Every package or bag +should be plainly labeled with the nature of its contents. In labeling +them use ink, as pencil marks are too easily obliterated. Where a party +is composed of a sufficient number of people to make it worth while the +party ration for each day may be weighed out and packed in a separate +receptacle, thus making seven food packages for each week. This, +however, would be obviously unpractical where there are less than eight +or ten members of the party. + +No glass or crockeryware should be used, not only because of its +liability to break, but because of its unnecessary weight. + +A good way to carry the tin of baking powder is to sink it into the +sack of flour. The flour will protect it and preclude the possibility +of the cover coming off and the contents spilling out. Do not carry +prepared or self-raising flour on the trail. For many reasons it is +unpractical for trail use, though perhaps most excellent in the +kitchen at home. + +Throughout I have accentuated the advisability of waterproof covers for +everything. Every ounce of water absorbed by tent, bags, or package +covers, adds to the tedium of the trail by so much unnecessary weight. +When flour carried in an ordinary sack Is exposed to rain a paste +will form next the cloth, and presently harden into a crust that will +protect the bulk of flour from injury. But the flour used up in the +process of crust forming is a decided waste, and the paste, retaining a +degree of moisture, increases weight. + +I have suggested balloon silk for the small food bags to fit into the +larger waterproofed canvas bags, not only because it does not absorb +moisture, but because there will be no possibility of the contents +sifting through the cloth. If these or the cloth from which to make +them cannot be readily obtained, closely woven muslin will do. + +Should the canoeist desire to make his own bags and should he not find +it convenient to purchase waterproofed canvas, the ordinary canvas +which he will use may be waterproofed by the following process: + +In two gallons of boiling water dissolve three and one-half ounces of +alum. Rain water is best, though any soft water will do; but it _must +be soft water_ to obtain the best results. In another vessel dissolve +four ounces of sugar of lead in two gallons of soft water. Unite the +solutions when they have cleared by pouring into another vessel No. 1 +first, then No. 2. Let the solution stand over night, decant it into +a tub, free of any sediment that may have settled, and it is ready +for the canvas. The cloth should be put into the solution, thoroughly +saturated with it and then lightly wrung out, and hung up to dry. This +treatment will render canvas to a considerable extent, though not +completely, waterproof. + +Muslin for the smaller food bags may be waterproofed by painting it +with a saturate solution of turpentine and paraffin. + +Canned goods should be packed snugly in canvas bags, with cans on end, +that the sides, not the corners or edges, will rest against the back in +portaging. + +Camp chests in which to store food or other articles are carried by +some canoeists, but they add considerable weight to the outfit. The +best and most serviceable camp chest is one of indestructible fiber. +One with an inside measurement of 18 x 24 x 12 inches weighs twenty +pounds. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +THE PORTAGE + + +There are several types of pack harness offered by outfitters, but +it is generally conceded that the best method of carrying heavy or +medium-weight packs is with the tump line. In tump line carrying +the pack is supported by a broad band of leather passed across the +head--high up on the forehead--thus throwing the weight upon the strong +muscles of the neck, with no shoulder straps or other support. + +Canadian voyageurs, Hudson's Bay Company packers and Indians use the +tump line to the exclusion of all shoulder-carrying devices. Indeed, by +no other method would it be possible for them to transport upon their +backs through a rough country the heavy burdens which they are called +upon to carry. Experienced packers with the tump line will sometimes +portage loads of upwards of four hundred pounds. In tests of skill I +have seen a man carry in a single load the contents of three barrels of +flour--588 pounds. + +The tump line consists of a broad piece of leather some eighteen or +twenty inches in length (known as the head strap or headpiece), with a +leather thong usually about seven feet in length attached to each end, +the total length from the tip end of one thong to the tip end of the +other thong averaging about sixteen feet. + +Sometimes the two thongs are sewn to the headpiece, and again the +line is a single strip of leather, broadened in the center to form +the headpiece. The best tump lines, however, have the head strap as +a separate piece with a buckle at each end by which the thongs are +attached. This arrangement admits of adjustment, if necessary, to suit +the individual after the pack has been made up. + +There is a knack in tump line carrying, but the following directions +for making up various packs will give the novice sufficient insight, +with a little experience, to enable him to acquire the art. + +When the pack is to be made up wholly of bags, lay the tump line on +the ground with the thongs parallel to each other and from sixteen +to twenty inches apart, depending upon the length of the bags to be +packed. Place the bags across the thongs, one bag upon another, taking +care that the thongs are not so near the ends of the bags as to render +them liable to slip off when the pack is tied. Now lift the head strap +above the top bag and secure the pack by drawing the loose end of each +thong in turn tight around the bags and knotting it a few inches below +the buckle that attaches its other end to the headpiece. + +When a pack cloth is to be used, spread the pack cloth upon the thongs +of the tump line, stretched upon the ground in the manner above +described, and in the center of the pack cloth lay folded blankets and +other articles to be packed, making the pile about two feet long, and +taking care that hard substances are in the center, with blankets and +soft things outside. Now turn the sides of the pack cloth over the pack +and fold over the ends. If a bag is to be included, lay it upon the +pack after the cloth has been folded, and secure the whole as in the +former case. + +Another method of making up a pack with the pack cloth, common among +Canadian voyageurs, is as follows: Spread the cloth upon the ground, +and lay the tump line across it, the headpiece near one end and the +thongs a foot from the sides. Fold the sides of the cloth inward over +each thong. Now build up the pack in a neat pile about two feet long on +the folded cloth, taking care as before that hard things are placed in +the middle. Fold the end of the pack cloth with protruding thongs over +the pack, take a half turn with the loose end of a thong around the +other end near the headpiece, draw it tight until the end is closely +puckered, then knot it and draw up the other thong and secure it in +like manner. Now bring the free ends of the tump line to center of +pack, on top, cross them and pass them around middle of pack and tie. + +The knack of comfortable tump line carrying once the neck muscles have +become developed and hardened to the work is in properly balancing the +pack. With the headpiece resting high up upon the forehead the pack +should hang with its bottom no lower than the hips. Neither should it +be too high. A little experimenting will teach just where the proper +balance is to be found. If it is too high, lengthen the line, or if too +low shorten it by means of the buckles which attach the thongs to the +headpiece. + +Experienced packers pile additional bags or bundles on top of the +pack, the uppermost bundle standing higher than the head. In my own +experience I have found that an additional bag thus placed upon the +pack and resting against the back of my neck helped balance the load. +My favorite bag for this purpose is a forty or fifty pound bag of +flour, sometimes surmounted by a lighter bundle which rested partly +upon the flour and partly upon my head. + +The tenderfoot will be quite content to limit his early loads to sixty +or seventy pounds, and even then his first portages will not be what +he can conscientiously term experiences of unalloyed joy. Gradually, +however, he will learn the knack of tump packing and at the end of a +couple of weeks of daily experience will find himself able to negotiate +a load of one hundred pounds with some ease. + +All the various types of pack harness are supplied with straps by which +the pack is secured and loops through which to slip the arms, the pack +being carried from the shoulders instead of the head. With this sort +of a pack, as with the tump line, care should be given to the proper +adjustment, with the bottom of the pack no lower than the hips. Fifty +pounds is about as heavy a load as one can comfortably carry from the +shoulders. + +Outfitters sometimes attach a headpiece to their pack harness--that +is to say the harness is provided with both shoulder loops and tump +line head strap. The object is to secure a division of weight between +shoulders and head. This is a method employed by Eskimos when hunting +without dogs. The Eskimo hunter binds his pack with sealskin thongs, +and manipulates a single thong in such a manner as not only to secure +the pack but to form arm loops and headpiece as well. + +No matter what type of shoulder harness is employed, a breast strap +must be used to fasten together the arm loops in front or the loops +will have a continual tendency to slip backward and off the shoulders. +This breast strap fastens the packer so securely to his pack that +should he slip, as is sometimes likely, the pack will carry him down +with it and the probability of injury is multiplied many times. This +alone is a very decided objection to all forms of pack harness. + +If one slips with a tump line, on the contrary, a slight twist of the +head will disengage and free one from the pack; and if one is hunting +the tump pack may readily be dropped at a moment's notice, should game +be sighted. + +Let me therefore urge the adoption of the tump line for all portage +work where fifty pounds or more must be transported. No experienced +packer will use harness. Harness packing is indeed indicative of the +tenderfoot who has never learned how, unless on long cross country +tramps with light loads. + +But on a canoe trip, if one would make progress, big loads must be +resorted to. For instance, if the canoeist has a two mile portage to +negotiate and one hundred pounds of duffle he has but two miles to walk +if he carries all his duffle at once, but if he makes two loads of it +he must walk six miles. With the hundred pound load the portage may +easily be covered in one hour. With fifty pound loads three hours will +be consumed, for there will be time lost in making up the second pack. + +Axes, guns and extra paddles may be thrust under the thongs of the tump +line, or carried in the hand. Never portage a rifle with a cartridge +in the chamber, and never portage a loaded shotgun. To disregard this +advice will be to take an unnecessary and foolhardy risk. + +Save in a rather stiff breeze, one man can carry a canoe weighing less +than one hundred pounds nearly as easily as two can carry it. There is +one best way of doing everything, and the best and most practical way +to carry a canoe is the Indian's way. + +Tie one end of a stout string or thong securely to the middle thwart +close to the gunwale, and the other end to the same thwart close to +the opposite gunwale with the string stretched taut from end to end +of the thwart and on top of it. Slip the blades of two paddles, lying +side by side, under the string, the paddle handles lying on the forward +thwart. With the handles as close together as they will lie, bind them +with a piece of rope or thong to the center of the forward thwart. + +Spread the blades upon the middle thwart sufficiently wide apart to +admit your head between them. Take a position on the left side of the +canoe facing the stern. Just forward of the middle thwart grasp the +gunwale on the opposite or right side of the canoe in your left hand +and the gunwale on the near or left side in your right hand, and, +lifting the canoe over your head, let the flat side of the paddles +directly forward of the middle thwart rest upon the shoulders, your +head between them. It will be found that though you faced the stern in +lifting the canoe you are now facing the bow, and with the bow slightly +elevated the canoe can be carried with ease and a view of the trail +ahead will not be shut out. + +Should the flat paddle blades resting upon the shoulders be found +uncomfortable, as they doubtless will at the end of the first two +or three hundred yards, a Pontiac shirt or sweater will serve as a +protecting pad. + +Outfitters offer for sale yokes, pneumatic pads and contrivances of +various sorts as protections for the shoulders, but these contrivances +elevate the canoe from two to four inches above the shoulders and this +increases the difficulty of steadying it on rough trail. The sweater +or Pontiac shirt eases the cutting effect of the paddles just as well +as any of the special portaging pads, and the canoe can be handled more +easily with it. Besides it makes one less thing to look after. + +In a strong breeze it is often difficult for one man to handle a canoe, +for the wind striking it on the side will turn the portager around and +he will find it impossible to keep his course in spite of his best +efforts. If the portage is a short one--two or three hundred yards--the +canoe may be carried very well, one man with the bow the other with the +stern upon a shoulder, the canoe on its side with the bottom next the +portagers' heads, that they may easily grasp the gunwale in one hand +and steady the canoe with the other. + +This position will soon be found exceedingly tiresome, and on portages +exceeding two or three hundred yards the paddles should be arranged +with the blades on the after thwart and the handles lashed to the +center of the middle thwart. With this arrangement one man carries +exactly as when portaging the canoe alone, save that he stands under +the canoe just forward of the after thwart instead of the middle +thwart, while the other man carries the bow upon one shoulder. This is +the easiest method of two-man portaging of which I know. + +Many odds and ends may be tucked in the canoe on the portage--fishing +rods, for example, in cases, with one end stuck in the bow and the +other end tied to the forward thwart. + +Should a canvas canoe become punctured it may be repaired by one of the +following methods: + +If a stick of canoe cement is in the outfit, heat the cement with a +match and smear it over the puncture. + +Should the outfit contain a canoe repair kit, cut a patch of canvas +somewhat larger than the puncture, apply a coat of white lead to the +puncture and over a marginal space as large as the canvas patch, press +the patch firmly and evenly upon the white lead and tack it down with +copper tacks. To this apply calor, and when dry complete the repairs +with a coat of varnish. + +Should marine glue be used, lay a sheet of it over the puncture, heat +the bottom of a cup or some other smooth metal utensil and rub it over +the glue until the glue melts sufficiently to fill the puncture. + +In a region where spruce gum can be had, melt a quantity of gum in a +frying pan with sufficient grease to take from the gum its brittle +quality when cold. While hot pour the gum upon the rupture, letting it +run well into the opening and smearing it smoothly over the outside. + +"Peterborough" canoes are also easily repaired with marine glue or gum. + +In loading the canoe place the heavier bags in the bottom and middle +of the canoe, taking care so to distribute the weight that when fully +loaded the canoe will lie on an even keel. Keep the load always as low +down as possible. Every bag rising above the gunwales offers resistance +to the wind, and tends to make the load topheavy. When but one man +occupies a canoe, however, sufficient weight should be carried forward +to counterbalance his weight in the stern. + +Lash everything fast, particularly in rough water or when running +rapids. It does not pay to take chances. With a companion I was once +turned over in a rapid in an unexplored, sparsely timbered wilderness +several hundred miles from the nearest base of supplies--a Hudson's +Bay trading post. Nearly all our food was lost, as well as guns, axes, +cooking utensils and many other necessities of travel. The temperature +stood close to zero, snow covered the ground and during the greater +part of the three weeks occupied in reaching the post we had to dig +driftwood from under the snow, and our ingenuity was taxed at times to +the utmost in efforts to protect ourselves from the elements and travel +with any degree of comfort. Nothing worse than an unpleasant ducking in +icy waters would have resulted from our accident had we observed the +rule of ordinary caution and lashed our outfit to the thwarts. + +One end of a rope tied to the forward thwart, the other end threaded +through bag handles or pack lashings and secured to the after thwart, +will do the trick. A short strap, one end attached to a thwart, the +other end supplied with a snap to fasten on rifle or shotgun cases, is +a good way to secure the guns and still have them readily accessible. + +If you would make speed be smart in unloading the canoe and making up +your packs on the portage, and equally smart in reloading the canoe. +Delays in loading, unloading and making up packs are the chief causes +of slow progress. + +When it is found necessary to "track," give the rear end of the +tracking line a turn around the forward thwart, on the land side of +the canoe, then pass the end back and secure it to the middle thwart. +This distributes the strain between the thwarts. While one man at the +farther end of the line tows the canoe, the other man with a pole may +walk upon the bank, and keep the canoe clear of snags, if the water is +deep. Should the water be shallow it will usually be found necessary +for him to wade and guide the bow through open channels. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +TRAVEL WITH SADDLE AND PACK ANIMALS + + +Under this head we shall consider: (1) Saddles and pack equipment; (2) +Animals best adapted to pack work; (3) Outfit and provisions and how to +pack them; (4) How to throw some practical hitches; (5) Equipment of +the traveler who has no pack animal and whose saddle horse is required +to transport both rider and equipment. + +Comfort on the trail depends to a very large degree upon the animals of +the outfit. A mean horse is an abomination, and a horse may be mean in +many respects. A bucking horse, a horse that shies at stumps and other +objects or at every moving thing, or one that is frightened by sudden +and unexpected sounds is not only an uncomfortable but unsafe animal +to ride upon rugged mountain trails; and a horse that will not stand +without hitching, or one that is hard to catch when hobbled and turned +loose, will cause no end of trouble. + +In choosing a horse, then, avoid so far as possible one with these +tendencies, and also observe the manner in which he handles his feet. +He should not be subject to stumbling. He should be sure-footed, steady +and reliable, to qualify him for work on dangerous trails; this is of +the first importance. A horse that does not keep his eyes on the trail +and select his footing with care is wholly unsuited to mountain work. +He should be gunwise. A gunwise horse will not be easily frightened by +sudden and unexpected noises. + +Whether intended for mountain or plains work, the horse should be a +good camp animal--that is, one that will not wander far from camp. +It is more than aggravating to find upon arising in the morning that +your horse has disappeared and one always feels that time consumed +in searching for a roving horse is time worse than wasted. Of course +this tendency of an animal can be forestalled by picketing him, but a +picketed horse unless forage be particularly good will not do well, for +it rarely happens in these days of sheep-ravaged ranges that an animal +can find sufficient food to meet his requirements within the limited +length of a picket rope. + +Some horses need much persuasion before they can be induced to ford +streams, and I have had them lose their nerve and decline the descent +of precipitous trails. An animal possessing this trait of timidity +is not suited to trail work, for he is likely to cause trouble at a +critical moment. + +Some horses are good foragers, others are not. A poor forager will +become leg weary and break down much more quickly than the animal that +takes advantage of every opportunity to graze or browse. A horse just +in from the open range should be round and full-bellied. This is an +indication that he is a good feeder. Generally speaking the chunky +horse is the one best adapted to arduous trail work because he usually +possesses greater powers of endurance than the longer, lankier type. + +All of the qualifications above enumerated should be borne in mind in +selecting animals, whether for saddle or pack use. And of course the +animals should be as sound as possible. One should never start upon a +journey with an animal that is lame or has cinch sores or galled back. + +When mountain trails are to be negotiated a saddle horse weighing from +nine hundred to a thousand pounds will be found better adapted to the +work than a larger animal. Too large a horse is liable to be clumsy on +the trail, while too light a horse will of course tire under a heavy +rider. A small horse, as a rule, is better able to forage a living than +a large horse, and for this reason stands up better with a moderate +load on long, continuous journeys. Ponies weighing from eight hundred +to eight hundred and fifty pounds will pack one hundred and fifty +pounds easily, and ponies of this size make much better pack animals +than larger ones. + +While for general saddle work I prefer a horse, a mule is surer footed +and therefore preferable on precipitous, narrow mountain trails. In +the Sierra Madres of Mexico I rode a mule over trails where I would +scarcely have trusted a horse. Good saddle mules, however, are scarce. +I never saw a really good saddle-broke mule north of Mexico, though +they are doubtless to be had. Mules have greater powers of endurance +than horses, and for many other reasons are superior as pack animals. +The chief objection to a mule is his timidity upon marshy trails. His +feet are much smaller than those of a horse, he mires easily, and he +is fully aware of the fact. A good mule, nevertheless, is the one best +all-around pack animal. + +Burros are good where forage is scarce, but they are slow. When the +burro decides that he has done a day's work he stops, and that is the +end of it. He will not consult you, and he will not take your advice. +When he fully decides that he will go no farther you may as well unpack +and make camp with as good grace as you can muster, and keep your +temper. I believe that burros have a well-organized labor union and +they will not do one stroke of work beyond the limit prescribed by +their organization. But one must sometimes resort to them in desert +travel. They will pick their living and thrive on sage brush wastes +where other animals would die, and their ability to go long without +water is truly remarkable. On rough mountain trails they are even more +sure-footed if possible than mules, but like the mule it is difficult +to force them over marshes or into rivers when fording is necessary. + +In horse-raising localities in the West very good horses can be had +at anywhere from thirty to seventy-five dollars. The usual rate for +horse rental is one dollar to one dollar and a half a day, and it is +therefore cheaper, when the journey is to extend to a month or more, to +purchase the animals outright and sell them when you are finished with +them for what they will bring. Rented animals are generally animals +of low value and sometimes not very efficient, and in the course of +a month one pays in rental a good share of the value of the horse. +The risk is no greater, for if a rented horse is injured while in a +traveler's possession, the owner holds him who has rented the animal +responsible for the damage. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +SADDLE AND PACK EQUIPMENT + + +The riding saddle should be a double cinch, horn saddle, with +wool-lined skirts and of ample weight to hold its position. My own is +a regular stock saddle weighing thirty-five pounds, though for all +ordinary use a twenty-five- or thirty-pound saddle will do just as well. + +I prescribe the horn saddle because of its convenience. One may sling +upon it a camera, binoculars or other articles in frequent demand, +and when it becomes necessary to lead a pack pony the lead rope +may be attached to it. For this latter purpose the horn is indeed +indispensable. + +In the light of personal experience with both single and double cinch +saddles, I recommend the latter unhesitatingly, particularly for +mountain work. In steep ascents or descents it will not slide, while a +single cinch saddle is certain to do so no matter how tightly cinched, +and this shifting will sooner or later gall the horse's back. In +Mexico the single cinch saddle is almost universally used, but who ever +saw a Mexican's horse that was free from saddle sores? The forward +cinch should preferably be a hair cinch, though the ordinary webbed +sort, both forward and rear, does well enough. + +The saddle blanket should be a thick, good quality wool blanket. In +Arizona Navajo saddle blankets are popular, and they are undoubtedly +the best when obtainable. A hair saddle pad or corona, shaped to the +animal's back and used in connection with the blanket, is a pretty good +insurance against galling, and preferable to the felt pad, for it is +cooler. + +A leather boot for rifle, and saddle bags for toilet articles, note +books and odds and ends, bridle, halter rope, a pair of cowboy spurs +with large blunt rowels, and a quirt to tickle delinquent pack horses +will be needed. The rifle boot has two sling straps. The usual method +of carrying it is to insert it between the stirrup leathers on the +near side, drop the sling strap at the top of the boot over the saddle +pommel and buckle the sling strap at the bottom of the boot into the +rear latigo ring. By detaching the latter sling from the boot before +buckling it to the ring, the boot may be removed from or attached to +the saddle by simply lifting the forward sling strap over the pommel, +without unbuckling. In case the sling strap at the top of the boot be +placed too far down, it should be shifted higher up and secured to the +boot with a leather loop which may be riveted to the boot. + +[Illustration: METHOD OF SLINGING LOAD ON APAREJO + +(FIG. 1.) Rope is doubled and loop A thrown over horse's back to off +side. + +N. B.--In this and the following diagrams the pack is represented as +spread out flat and viewed from above.] + +For the pack animals the ordinary cross-tree or sawbuck pack saddle is +the most practical pack saddle for all-around use, though the aparejo, +used by the army and generally throughout Mexico, is superior to the +sawbuck when unwieldy packages of irregular size and shape are to be +transported. Such packages must frequently be transported by army +trains and they are the rule rather than the exception in Mexico, where +freighting throughout wide regions must be done wholly on the backs of +animals. + +[Illustration: (FIG. 2.) Packs are now lifted into place and off packer +brings loop A up around off side pack to top of load. Near packer +passes end B through loop A and ties ends B and C together with square +knot. Balance or "break" the packs and load is ready for hitch.] + +The aparejo is of Arabian origin, and the Spaniards, who adopted it +from the Moors, introduced it into Mexico. In Mexico there are two +types of the aparejo in common use. One made usually of the fiber of +_henequen_, which is woven into pockets which are stuffed with grass, +to form the pads, is used on donkeys in comparatively light packing; +in the other type the pad casing is made of Mexican tanned leather +instead of _henequen_ matting but also stuffed with grass. This is used +in heavier packing with mules, in transporting machinery and supplies +to mines and merchandise to inland settlements. + +The cross-tree or sawbuck, however, is used almost exclusively in +the United States by forest rangers, cowboys, prospectors and pack +travelers generally, and it is to this type of pack saddle that we +shall direct our attention chiefly. It may be interesting to note +that this is a very ancient type of pack saddle, of Asiatic origin. +It consists of two saddle boards connected near each end--front and +rear--by two cross-pieces, the pommel and cantle forming a miniature +sawbuck, while the saddle boards are similar in shape to the McClellan +saddle tree. This is fitted with breeching, quarter straps, breast +strap, latigos and cinch. As in the case of the riding saddle, the +sawbuck pack saddle should be supplied with the double cinch. Care +should be taken that the saddle fits the animal for which intended. A +saddle either too wide or too narrow will be certain to cause a sore +back. + +Each pack saddle should be accompanied by a heavy woolen saddle +blanket, which should be folded into three or four thicknesses, for +here even greater protection is necessary than with the riding saddle, +for the animal is to carry a dead weight. + +The preferable method of carrying supplies with the sawbuck pack saddle +is with kyacks, basket panniers or the _alforjas_, though with sling +and lash ropes any sort of a bundle may be slung upon it. + +When they can be obtained, kyacks of indestructible fiber stand first +for preference. These are usually from twenty-two to twenty-four inches +wide, seventeen or eighteen inches high and about nine inches deep, and +are fitted with heavy leather loops for slinging on the saddle. Unless +the horse is a large one, the narrower, or twenty-two inch, should be +selected. + +Basket panniers of similar size are lighter but not so well adapted to +hard usage, and are more expensive. + +The alforjas is constructed of heavy duck and leather, and of the same +dimensions as the kyack. They are much cheaper than either panniers or +kyacks, and are therefore more commonly used. Any outfitter can supply +them. They are slung upon the saddle in the same manner as kyacks. A +pair of the type decided upon will be required for each animal. + +The next requirement is a half-inch lash rope. This should be at least +thirty-three, but preferably forty feet in length. In some respects a +cotton rope is preferable to one of hemp, though the latter is more +commonly used, and regulations prescribe it for army pack trains. + +A good broad cinch should be provided, fitted with a ring on one end to +which is attached the lash or lair rope and a cinch hook on the other +end. + +There should be a pair of hobbles for each animal, and a blind to put +upon obstreperous pack animals when slinging and lashing the load. +These may be purchased throughout the West at almost any village store. +It is well also to carry a bell, which should always be strapped around +the neck of one of the horses when the animals are hobbled and turned +loose to graze. + +It will sometimes be necessary to picket one of the animals, and for +this purpose fifty or sixty feet of half or five-eighth inch rope will +be required. Also sufficient leading rope should be provided for each +pack animal, and a halter rope for the saddle horse. A lariat carried +upon the saddle pommel will be found useful in a dozen ways, and may be +utilized for picketing horses. + +All horses should be "slick" shod; that is, shod with uncalked shoes. +The shoes should be of soft iron, not so light as to render them liable +to bend before they are worn out, and they should not extend beyond the +hoof at side or rear. Some extra shoes of proper size for each animal, +a horseshoer's nippers, rasp, hammer and some nails should be included +in the equipment. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +PERSONAL OUTFIT FOR THE SADDLE + + +The outfit recommended in Chapters III and IV in discussing camp and +personal equipment for canoe trips is, with the modifications and +additions which we shall now consider, equally well adapted to saddle +and pack horse travel. As previously stated, our object is to describe +methods of packing, rather than to formulate an infallible check list. +With this in view an efficient outfit that may be easily packed and +transported is outlined, in a general way, and therefore such articles +of outfit mentioned in previous chapters as are obviously useful only +in canoe travel will not be referred to in this connection. + +The wedge, the Hudson Bay, the forest ranger and the lean-to tent are +all good models for pack animal travel, and easily erected. Whichever +type is chosen, if made of any one of the light-weight materials +described, will be found both satisfactory and easily packed. For +example, a forest ranger's tent eight feet deep and eight feet wide +weighs less than four pounds, while a lean-to with approximately the +same floor space weighs about three pounds. In the more arid regions of +the West one rarely finds it necessary to pitch a tent, though it is +handy to have one along and well worth carrying, particularly should it +be desired to remain more than one night at any point. + +During the summer, save in high altitudes, one pair of light woolen +blankets will be found ample bedding. For all probable conditions of +weather, however, in tent or in the open, the sleeping bag is the most +convenient and at the same time the most comfortable camp bed yet +devised, and it is so easily carried on the pack horse that I advise +its adoption. One made of close-woven waterproofed canvas is the most +thoroughly practical bag for general use. This should be lined with +two pairs of light blankets, that four thicknesses of blanket may +be available for covering. The blankets should be so arranged that +they may be taken out and the bag turned for airing. One may adapt +such a bag to the temperature, using as many or as few thicknesses of +blanket as desired, depending upon the number with which the bag is +lined. I recently saw a bag lined with four thicknesses of llama wool +duffel (providing two thicknesses for cover) that weighed but eight +pounds and furnished ample protection for any weather down to a zero +temperature. + +Pack cloths or light tarpaulins 6 x 7 feet, used to cover and protect +the packs, will be needed for each pack animal, and at night the bed +may be spread upon them. Saddle bags make excellent pillows. + +In traveling in an arid region canteens are a necessity. There should +be one large one for each traveler to be carried on the pack horse, and +a small one swung upon the saddle horn will be found convenient for +ready use. + +A folding water bucket of waterproofed canvas should also be included +in the outfit. + +The aluminum reflecting baker which has been described is far +preferable to the Dutch oven--a heavy iron kettle with iron cover--not +only because it weighs far less and is much more easily packed, but +because it is more practical. Westerners are wedded to the Dutch oven, +and this reference is merely made as a suggestion in case the question +of choice between the two should arise. + +If kyacks or alforjas are used the large water-proofed canvas duffle +bags and food bags will not be required. The smaller balloon silk +or musline food bags, however, will be found fully as convenient in +packing in the pack horse kyack as in the canvas bags on the canoe +trip. + +Each rider should be provided with either a saddle slicker or a poncho, +which when not in use may be rolled and secured to the saddle directly +behind the seat by means of tie strings attached to the saddle. A +poncho is preferable to a slicker, because of the many uses to which it +may be put. + +On saddle journeys in cold, windy weather a wind-proof canvas coat +or a large, roomy buckskin shirt is a comfort. If a buckskin shirt +is adapted, have it made plain without fringe or frill. Wilderness +dwellers formerly fringed their buckskin shirts, not alone for +ornament, but to facilitate the drying of the garment when wet. In +the fringed shirt water, instead of settling around the bottom of the +shirt, around the yoke and the seams of the sleeve, will drain to the +fringe which the wind quickly dries. In our case, however, the poncho +will protect the shirt from a wetting. + +In summer, in an arid or desert region of the Southwest, athletic +summer underwear will be found entirely satisfactory. Whether this or +light wool is to be worn, however, will depend entirely upon the season +and the region to be visited. + +In very warm weather a close-woven, good quality khaki outer shirt is +both comfortable and practical; but on chilly autumn days a flannel +shirt should take its place--gray, brown, blue--the color does not +matter so long as it does not crock. It is my custom to have one khaki +and one flannel shirt in my outfit. + +Trousers should be of heavy khaki, medium weight moleskin, or other +strong close-woven material. Full-length trousers, with reinforced +seat, are preferable in some respects to riding breeches, and may be +worn with the regulation United States cavalry puttee leggings with +shoes. + +Some riders prefer top boots, such as Arizona cowboys wear, and but +for their high heels which make walking uncomfortable they would +be admirable. High-laced, medium-weight mountaineering shoes will +eliminate the necessity of puttees, and many prefer them to low-laced +shoes and puttees. In snowy, cold weather I have found heavy German +socks and ordinary shoes, large enough to avoid the possibility of +pinching the feet, admirable footwear for the saddle. But whatever +is decided upon, extra trousers, extra leggings and extra shoes are +superfluous. One pair of each--the pair worn--is sufficient. + +The hat should be of the Western style, with broad brim, and of the +best grade. The brims of the cheaper ones are sure to sag after a +little wear and exposure to a shower or two. A good reliable hat may +be had for five dollars that will stand several years of hard wear and +may be renovated when soiled, assuming again the freshness of a new +hat. I have one for which I paid fourteen pesos in Monterey, Mexico, in +1907. I have worn It pretty steadily since in camp and on the trail. It +has been twice renovated, and to-day so nearly resembles a new hat that +I am not ashamed to wear it about town. + +Heavy gauntlet buckskin gloves are a necessary protection, not +only against cold in frosty weather, but against brush in summer. +The regulation United States cavalry glove is the best that I have +discovered for all-around hard usage, and will not harden after a +wetting. + +The saddle rifle should be short and light--not over twenty-four-inch +barrel, and not above seven pounds in weight. A revolver is never +needed, though for target practice one offers a means of amusement. + +Unless going into permanent camp or into an isolated region, it will +hardly be found necessary to start out with more than one week's +provisions. Before these are consumed settlements will be reached, +where fresh supplies may be purchased. It is well to have along a few +cans of baked beans and corned or roast beef, that a hasty meal may +be prepared when time does not allow a sufficient halt to permit the +preparation of uncooked foods. Two or three dozen lemons should also be +provided, particularly in summer, and in more or less arid regions. + +Provisions and general outfit should be neatly packed in small bags, +and evenly distributed in the kyacks. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +ADJUSTING THE PACK + + +In saddling up, be sure that the saddle blanket is folded large enough +to protect the horse's sides from the pack, when the pack is slung into +place. Otherwise the kyacks or alforjas will be liable with constant +chafing when the horse is in motion to cause sores. Not only where the +saddle rests upon the blanket but where the pack rests upon the horse's +sides there should be sufficient thicknesses of blanket to overcome +friction, and this demands a greater thickness than under the riding +saddle, for the pack load is a dead load. After the pack saddle is +thrown into place, and before cinching it, ease the blanket by pulling +it up slightly under the center of the saddle--along the backbone of +the animal. This will overcome the tendency of the blanket to draw down +and bind the horse's back too tightly when the saddle is cinched and +the pack in place. + +When packing the kyacks or alforjas particular care should be taken to +have the pair for each horse evenly balanced as to weight. If the load +swung on one side of the horse is heavier than that on the opposite +side, there will be a continual drawing down of the pack saddle on +the heavier side, resulting almost certainly in injury to the animal. +Inattention or willful carelessness on the part of packers in balancing +the pack is five times out of six the cause which leads to sore-backed +pack animals. + +If two or more pack animals are used, let such provisions and utensils +as are in constant use and will be needed at once by the cook, be +packed on one animal. Hobbles and bell should also be carried on this +animal. This will be the first animal unpacked, and while the other +animals are being unpacked the cook may get busy, and the packer will +have hobbles and bell at hand to immediately attach to the animals. + +Attached to each end of the kyacks and alforjas is a leathern loop or +sling strap. By means of these loops kyacks and alforjas are hung to +the saddle, one loop fitting over the forward, the other over the rear +cruz, or fork. The kyacks should be so adjusted as to hang evenly one +with the other. That is to say, one kyack should hang no lower upon the +animal's side than the other, and both should hang as high as possible. + +The kyacks in place, hobbles, bell, and such odds and ends as it may +not be convenient to pack in the kyack, may be laid on the center +between the crosstrees and on top of the kyack, and over all smoothly +folded blankets, sleeping bags, or tent, care being exercised to keep +the pack as low and smooth as possible. Everything carefully placed and +adjusted, cover the pack with the pack cloth or tarpaulin, folded to +proper size to protect the whole pack, but with no loose ends extending +beyond it to catch upon brush or other obstructions. If inconvenient to +include within the pack, the cooking outfit in its canvas case may be +lashed to the top of pack after the final hitch has been tied. All is +ready now for the hitch that is to bind the pack into place. + +Frequently the traveler is not provided with either kyacks or alforjas, +and it becomes necessary to pack the load without the convenience of +these receptacles. Before considering the hitches, therefore, let us +describe methods of slinging the load in such cases upon the crosstree +saddle. + +The load which is to be slung from the crosstree should be arranged in +two compact packages of equal weight, one for each side of the animal. +Boxes may be used, but large, strong sacks are preferable. The large +canvas duffle bags, described in the chapter on canoe outfitting, are +well adapted to the purpose. + +[Illustration: SLING FOR PACKING ON CROSSTREE SADDLE + +A is forward cruz, B rear cruz of saddle. CC are loops which support +packages. D and E are ends or hauling parts of rope.] + +Take the sling rope, and, standing on the near side, throw one end over +the horse's neck just forward of the saddle. Now at about the middle of +the rope form two half hitches, or a clove hitch, on the forward cruz +or fork of the saddle. + +With the free end of the rope on the near side form a half hitch on the +rear cruz, allowing sufficient loop between the forward and rear cruz +to receive the side pack, with the free end of the rope falling under +the loop. Now go to the off side and arrange the rope on that side in +similar manner. + +Lift the offside pack into position with its forward end even with the +forward fork, lifting the pack well up to the forks. Hold the pack in +position with the palm of the right hand against the center of the +pack, and with the left hand pass the loop along the lower side of the +pack, drawing in the slack with the free end of the rope, which passes +around the rear fork and under the center of the pack. With the pack +drawn snugly in position, take a turn with the free end of the rope +around the rope along the side of the pack. This will hold the pack in +position. Tie a bowline knot in the end of rope, and at proper length +for the bowline loop to reach the center and top of pack. Place loop +where it may be easily reached from the near side. + +Now pass to the near side and sling the near pack in exactly similar +manner, save that no bowline knot is to be formed. Reach up and slip +the end of the near rope, which you are holding, through the bowline +loop, draw tight and tie. + +The following is another method of slinging packs, frequently used by +forest rangers: + +Throw the rope across the horse directly in front of the saddle, and +as in the previous method form two half hitches with the rope at its +middle on the front fork, but in this case permitting the ends to lie +on the ground on either side the horse. Place the near pack in position +and against the lower rope, and holding it with one hand, bring the +rope up and over the pack with the other hand and throw a half hitch +around the forward fork, keeping the free end of the rope under. Draw +the rope taut, lifting the pack well up. Pass the running rope back and +throw a half hitch around the rear fork, the loose or running end of +the rope on the under side, as when forming the half hitch on the front +fork. Now pass the running rope from under over the pack at the rear, +throw a half hitch over the rear fork, take up all slack, bring the +loose end under and around the two ropes at their intersection between +pack and rear fork, and tie securely. The pack on off side is slung in +similar manner. + +Most mules, and not infrequently horses as well, have a constitutional +dislike to receiving the pack. If your pack animal displays any such +tendency adjust the blind over his eyes and let it remain there until +the hitch is thrown and the load tightened and secured. The blind is +usually an effective quieter. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES + + +Whether the load is made up with kyacks, alforjas, or separate packs +slung to the crosstree saddle as described in the preceding chapter it +must be secured in place. For this purpose various hitches are employed +by packers, each hitch well adapted to the particular conditions which +evolved it. + +Our description will be confined to the following six hitches, which +furnish ample variety to suit the exigencies of ordinary circumstances: + +(1) The crosstree or squaw hitch, which is the father of all hitches +because from it the diamond, the double diamond and all pack-train +hitches in present-day use were evolved. + +(2) A diamond hitch, adapted to the crosstree pack saddle. This is a +form of single diamond. + +(3) The United States army diamond particularly adapted for use with +the aparejo. The true double diamond is a hitch rarely called for save +in army work or freighting pack trains, and will therefore be omitted. +There are several so-called double diamonds that might be described, +but these near-double diamonds possess little or no advantage over +the single diamond, and we shall pass them over as they are scarcely +resorted to in ordinary pack work. + +(4) The one-man or lifting hitch. + +(5) The stirrup hitch, to be used when the packer has rope but no cinch. + +(6) The saddle hitch, employed in slinging loads upon an ordinary +riding saddle. + +(7) The hitch for packing a sick or injured man. + + +THE CROSSTREE HITCH + +This hitch was introduced into the Northwest by the early fur traders +and adopted by the Indians. Among Indians, women are the laborers, and +the crosstree hitch being the hitch almost exclusively employed by the +squaws was presently dubbed by white men the "squaw hitch." It is a +hitch very generally used by prospectors, and for this reason is known +in some localities as the "prospector's hitch." In other sections of +the West, where sheep herders commonly use it, it is locally called the +"sheep herder's hitch." It is a hitch easily thrown by one man, holds +well, and is therefore a favorite. + +[Illustration: SQUAW OR CROSSTREE HITCH + +(FIG. 1.) Rope engaged on cinch hook and bight of rope running from +rear forward under standing rope.] + +[Illustration: (FIG. 2.) Loop of bight enlarged, reversed and passed +around bottom and lower corners of off side pack.] + +[Illustration: (FIG. 3.) Hitch formed and ready to tighten. 1. Standing +rope. 2. Running rope. 3. Rear rope--off side. 4. Front rope--off side. +5. Front rope--near side. 6. Rear rope--near side. 7. Marker.] + +With lash rope attached to cinch, take a position on the near side of +the animal facing the pack. Throw the cinch over the top and center of +pack in such manner as to be easily reached under the horse's belly. +Pick up cinch and engage the rope from in out upon the hook. Draw up +slack, taking care that the cinch rests properly upon the horse's +belly. Grasp the running and standing rope in left hand above the hook, +to hold slack, and with the right hand double the running rope and +thrust the doubled portion under the standing rope from rear forward +in a bight, at top of pack. Enlarge the loop of the bight by drawing +through enough slack rope to make the loop of sufficient size to be +passed over and around the off side kyack or pack. Step to off side, +turn loop over, and engage it around the ends and bottom of kyack, from +front to rear. Return to near side, and pass the loose end of running +rope around the forward end, bottom and finally rear end of kyack. +Draw the rope end, from above down, over and under the standing rear +and running ropes, at the top and center of the load, and the hitch is +ready to tighten. + +To tighten the hitch, grasp the running rope a little above the cinch +hook, and pull with all your strength, taking up every inch of slack +possible. Retain this slack by holding the standing and running rope +together with left hand, while with the right hand you reach to top of +load and pull up slack where running rope passes under standing rope. +Go to off side and draw in all slack, following the rope around off +side pack. Retaining slack, return to near side, and still following +rope and taking up slack around front to rear of near side pack, grasp +end of rope, already engaged as directed over and under standing rear +and running rope, pull hard, bracing a foot against pack, and tie. Two +men, one on each side of the horse, can, of course, throw the hitch and +tighten the load much more quickly than one. Tightening the load is +just as important a feature of packing as evenly balancing the packs. +The result of an improperly tightened load will pretty certainly be a +sore-backed horse. + + +THE CROSSTREE DIAMOND HITCH + +[Illustration: (FIG. 1.) A turn is here taken around standing rope with +loop of bight of running rope thrust under standing rope from rear to +front, as in Fig. 1, illustrating Squaw Hitch.] + +Take position on the near side of horse, as when forming the crosstree +hitch, and throw cinch over horse, engaging it on hook and adjusting +it in exactly similar manner. Take in slack and retain it by grasping +the standing and running ropes in left hand. Double running rope and +thrust doubled portion under standing rope in a bight, from rear +forward at top and center of load. Take up all slack. Enlarge loop +of bight by drawing through enough running rope to form a diamond of +sufficient size to hold top of load. Now bring center of loop over and +under standing rope, from rear forward, thus giving rope at each side +of loop a complete turn around standing rope. Throw the disengaged +portion of running rope to off side of horse, and passing to the off +side, bringing the rope down along rear, bottom, and up front of kyack, +thrust loose rope end up through loop at top of pack. Take in slack and +return to near side of horse. Engage running rope around front, bottom +and rear end of near side kyack or pack, and thrust rope end over and +under standing rope opposite center of loop. Take up slack and load in +ready to tighten. + +[Illustration: CROSSTREE DIAMOND HITCH + +(FIG. 2.) Hitch formed ready to tighten.] + +Tighten load by grasping running rope above hook and drawing as tight +as possible. Hold slack with left hand, gripping running and standing +rope, and take up slack at loop with right hand. Pass to off side and +take up slack and tighten rear to front around kyack. Pass to near +side, tightening front to rear; finally, bracing a foot against the +load pull on loose end, and retaining all slack make final tie. + +The above described "diamond" hitch is not the true diamond employed by +government pack trains where the aparejo is used, but it is a diamond +evolved from the crosstree hitch, and is particularly well adapted to +the crosstree or sawbuck pack saddle, is easily formed, and holds the +load securely, which is the ultimate object of all hitches. + + +THE UNITED STATES ARMY DIAMOND HITCH + +The single diamond hitch employed by army packers is the ideal hitch +for securing a load upon an aparejo. This is a two-man hitch, though an +expert can throw it alone. + +One packer takes his position on the off side of the animal, while the +other with the coiled lash rope, cinch attached, remains on the near +side. + +The near packer, retaining the cinch, throws the coiled rope over the +horse's haunch, to rear. The off packer picks up end of rope, and +receiving the hook end of cinch, passed to him under horse's belly by +near packer, holds it together with end of rope in his left hand, and +stands erect. + +[Illustration: UNITED STATES ARMY DIAMOND HITCH + +Figures represent successive stages in formation. Near side towards +right in each case. Line PP in Fig. 1 represents horse's back. AA (Fig. +3) standing part of rope, and A' (Fig. 2) the running rope. + +FIG. 1.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 2.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 3.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 4.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 5.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 6.] + +The near packer, taking a position at the horse's neck, grasps the rope +about six feet from cinch, and with an upward and backward motion, +drops it between the two packs, one slung on either side of the +aparejo. + +Still grasping the rope in his right hand just forward of the packs at +the top, he pulls forward between the packs sufficient running rope to +permit him to bring his hand down to his side. Retaining the rope in +his right hand he now reaches up with his left hand, and with back of +hand up and thumb under grasps running rope and draws sufficient rope +forward to permit the left hand grasping the rope to come down to his +side, arm's length. + +With the right elbow crooked the right hand, still holding the rope, +is brought up about on a level with the chin, and the left hand, also +retaining its hold on the rope, thumb down, is raised to hollow of the +right arm, with loop of rope between the hands lying outside the right +arm. Now by a single swinging motion with both hands the rope in the +right hand, called the "standing rope," is thrown over the center of +pack to the off packer who stands ready to receive it; and the rope +held in the left hand, called the "running rope," over the horse's +neck, forward of the pack. + +The off packer, still standing with cinch hook and end of rope in left +hand, with his right hand grasps the standing rope as it comes over +as high up as he can conveniently reach, draws it down, and holding +the cinch hook in proper position below the aparejo draws down the +standing rope and engages it upon the hook from in out. + +The near packer now draws forward between the packs about six feet +more rope, which he throws to the rear of the near side pack. This +rope is now called the "rear" rope. He next grasps the running rope at +the horse's neck, and with the off packer's assistance releases that +portion of the running rope lying between the packs forward of the +standing rope, and brings it to the center of pack on near side, next +to and just back of the standing rope. + +He now slips his right hand down the rope to a point half way between +pack and aparejo boot, and with the left hand reaches from forward +between standing rope and aparejo and grasps the rope just above the +right hand. Both hands are now slipped down the rope, and with the same +motion drawn apart, one on each side of standing rope (under which the +rope being manipulated passes) to the cinches. With the hands about +ten inches apart, the section of rope between them, which is held in a +horizontal position, is jammed down between the two cinches under the +aparejo. + +The off packer, holding the running rope with his right hand above the +hook, places the left hand holding end of rope on top of running rope +between his right hand and the hook, and with thumb under running rope +grasps both ropes and slips his hands up on running rope, bringing it +to center of load. + +He now draws the end of the rope, held by left hand, forward until a +foot or so falls upon the near side of the horse's neck. The hitch is +now formed, ready to tighten. + +To tighten, the near packer with his left palm passing the side and +center of the pack grasps the running rope at the rear of the standing +rope, at the same time bringing the running rope between the thumb and +index finger of the left hand, which he is using as a brace. In this +position he is prepared to hold slack as it is given him by the off +packer. + +The off packer grasps the running rope close down to the hook, and, +bracing himself with a knee against the aparejo boot, pulls with all +his might, taking two or more pulls, if necessary, and giving slack to +near packer, until no more slack can be taken on standing rope. He now +steps smartly to rear and throws the top rope forward of the pack. The +top rope is the rope leading up from the rear corner of the aparejo +boot on near side to the side and center of off side pack. After it +is thrown forward it is called the "front" rope. He now prepares to +receive slack from near packer by grasping the rear rope where it lies +between the packs. + +The near packer, who has been receiving the slack given him by the off +packer, carries his right hand, with which he holds the slack at rear +of standing rope, to lower side of pack toward the aparejo, and reaches +under standing rope, with left hand grasps rope above right hand, +drawing it forward under standing rope, and employing both hands jams +it upward in a bight between standing rope and pack. Care should be +taken during this operation to retain all slack. + +The near packer now engages around front boot of aparejo the free +portion of the running rope below the bight just formed. Holding slack +with left hand, he grasps the rope to rear of cinch in right hand; +receiving slack from left hand he brings rope to rear of aparejo boot, +and with both hands carries rope smartly to upper corner of side pack, +always retaining slack. The off packer receives slack, pulling it in +quickly hand over hand, the near packer retaining his hold until the +off packer has the rope taut. The near packer now takes a position +at the forward end of load, facing the rear, and grasps end of rope +prepared to take slack from off packer. + +The off packer, after receiving slack from near packer as described +takes a turn of the rope around each hand, holding every inch of +slack, steps to the rear, keeping in line with the horse's body, +and then facing forward throws his full weight back upon the rope. +Retaining the slack with his left hand, with his right hand he brings +the free portion of running rope under and around the aparejo boot, +from rear to front, passes forward of rope, and facing the rear and +grasping rope, right hand above the left, brings it smartly to upper +corner of pack. + +The near packer, holding end of rope, immediately draws in slack until +he has about six feet of free rope, which he throws over center of load +to off side, and then drawing in all remaining slack takes a turn of +rope around each hand and throws his weight upon it, and the off packer +releases his hold. + +Holding the slack with the left hand, the near packer releases his +right hand and with it engages the free or running portion of rope +under and around the aparejo boot to rear of load, while the off packer +steps to rear of load, takes end of rope, and while he draws in all +slack, neatly coils rope, holding coil in right hand at lower side +of pack, and, with palm of left hand braced against center of load, +receives slack from near packer. + +Grasping in his left hand the taut rope above the coils, and lifting +it sufficiently above the load to admit the coiled rope under it, he +swings the coils with his right hand from rear to front to top of load +and brings the standing rope held in his left hand down on top of the +coils to hold them. He now takes a loop of the rope, forces it between +standing rope and pack, in a bight, and takes a turn of the loop around +standing and running rope to secure it, first joining the loop well up, +and the hitch is tightened. + + +THE ONE-MAN OR LIFTING HITCH + +This is a pretty good hitch sometimes where kyacks are not used and an +irregular pack is swung upon the crosstree. While it holds the pack +very securely to the animal's back, its tendency is to lift the corners +that might cause friction upon the horse's sides. + +Standing on the near side of the horse, throw cinch over the horse's +back, pick up cinch and engage rope upon cinch hook, from in out, as in +previous hitches. Take up slack, bring running rope up side of pack, +double and thrust loop or bight under standing rope from rear forward +at top of pack, to hold slack. Throw all loose rope to off side, and +pass around to off side yourself. + +[Illustration: (FIG. 1.) + + A--Cinch D--Running rope + C--Standing rope E--Front rope + B--Cinch hook F--Marker] + +[Illustration: LIFTING HITCH + +(FIG. 2.) Grasp loop A in left hand and with right jam rope C C along +and under rope B (where latter passes beneath corner of pack) to D, as +shown in Fig. 3.] + +[Illustration: (FIG. 3.) Off side of hitch completed.] + +[Illustration: LIFTING HITCH + +(FIG. 4.) Hitch formed ready to tighten.] + +Draw loose end of running rope forward and from under standing rope +at top of pack. The effect of operations thus far is this: The running +rope passes up the near side, from hook and to top of load and passes +under standing rope, which will serve effectually in final tightening +of cinch to hold slack. + +Pass end of running rope over and under the forward end of off pack and +backward under standing rope and pack. Now bring the rope forward over +side of pack, double, and thrust the doubled portion over and under +forward rope in a bight. With left hand grasp double of rope at bight +just to rear of forward rope where it passes over and under forward +rope, and with right hand slip running rope down and just to rear of +standing rope. Take up slack. By pulling hard upon loose end of running +rope the ends of pack will be lifted slightly. + +Throw loose end over horse to near side, and across middle of load. +Pass to near side and manipulate rope as on off side. Tighten load. +Secure the hitch by bringing loose end of rope over and under forward +running and standing ropes, and tie. + + +STIRRUP HITCH + +This hitch is useful where the packer has lash rope but no cinch, and +may be employed on sawbuck saddle, aparejo, or where the load is hung +upon an ordinary riding saddle. It is a two-man hitch, though one man +may manipulate it. + +[Illustration: (FIG. 1.) Rope is thrown across load with equal portion +falling on each side. Loop A is formed on top of load, and the ends BB +are passed through it to form large loops C and D.] + +[Illustration: STIRRUP HITCH + +(FIG. 2.) Loops C and D are passed under horse's belly and seized by +packers on opposite sides. Each packer then draws end of rope which he +is holding through loop which has been passed to him. Off packer forms +bowline knot, E, and near packer passes his end of rope through this. +Hitch is now ready to tighten.] + +Pass the rope over the load, with an equal division of rope on either +side. Form a loop at center and top of load. Each packer will now place +a foot upon the rope, where it falls from loop to ground, and pass his +end of rope through loop from above down and draw through slack rope. +This forms a loop on either side in which the foot rests. Each packer +will now bring forward and under the horse's belly the loop in which +his foot rests, passing the loop to the other packer at the same time +disengaging his foot, and will pass the loose end of rope which he +holds through the loop which he receives. The ropes on top of pack +will now be spread to properly cover and secure the pack, and all slack +taken. + +The off side packer now forms a bowline knot in the loose end of his +rope, the near side packer passes his loose end through the bowline +loop. To tighten the load the off side packer gives slack, while the +near side packer braces and draws in on loose end of rope, tying at +bowline loop to secure load. + + +THE SADDLE HITCH + +[Illustration: SADDLE HITCH + +With rope arranged as shown throw deer across saddle, enlarge loops +A and B around haunches and neck. Bring ends C and D together, form +bowline knot on end D, pass end C through it and tighten.] + +This is a particularly useful hitch when it becomes necessary to sling +a deer to a riding saddle for transportation to camp. + +Throw the lash rope across the saddle seat, an equal division of rope +falling to either side. Double the rope where it crosses the cinch ring +and thrust it through the cinch ring in a loop, drawing through enough +loose rope to form a good-sized loop. This should be done on both +sides. Lay the deer across saddle, with head hanging on one side and +haunches on the other side, slip loop on one side over the deer's head, +and the loop on the other side over its haunches. Take in all slack. +Form a bowline loop on end of off side rope, and lay it on top of load. +This loop should be so adjusted as to reach the middle of the top of +load. Passing to near side, thread loose end of near side rope through +the bowline loop. Tighten load by pulling on loose end, and tie. + + +HOW TO PACK A SICK OR INJURED MAN + +Sometimes it occurs that a member of a party is so injured or becomes +so ill as to be helpless, and the problem of transporting him upon +horseback presents itself. This may be done in the following manner +upon a crosstree or sawbuck saddle: + +Cut two straight sticks three feet long and about three inches in +diameter. Fit one on either side of saddle snug against the forks. Lash +securely to forks forward and rear, with ends of sticks protruding an +equal distance forward of and back of forward and rear forks. It may be +well to cut shallow notches in the sticks where they rest against the +forks. This will preclude lateral motion. + +Cut two sticks two feet long and three inches in diameter. Place one +in front and one in rear at right angles to and across top of sticks +already in position. These cross-pieces are to be lashed to position +one about two inches from forward ends, the other two inches from +rear ends of lengthwise sticks. Before lashing them into position cut +notches to receive lash ropes at points of intersection, that any +tendency to slip or work loose may be overcome. + +Now cut two poles six feet long and three inches in diameter. Spread a +pack cloth upon the ground, and presuming the pack cloth is six feet +wide, place a pole on each outer end of it. Roll poles, with pack +cloth, to center until there is a width of twenty inches between the +outer edges of poles. In this position lace cloth to each pole, or if +horseshoe or other nails are handy, nail it to poles. Should the cloth +be wider than length of poles, fold in a margin on each end, before +rolling. Place litter on cross-pieces, the flat of canvas on top. +Notch, and secure poles of stretcher at front and rear to cross-pieces. +Lash down litter by means of the stirrup hitch. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +TRAVELING WITHOUT A PACK HORSE + + +The man who travels without a pack horse, and carries his full +equipment and provision supply upon his saddle must, of necessity, +deny himself many things that under ordinary circumstances are deemed +essentials. He must indeed travel light, and unless he is well inured +to roughing it will be content to confine his activities to the warmer +and less inclement months. + +The food supply is the first consideration, but nowadays one is certain +to come every three or four days at the outside upon some point where +fresh supplies may be purchased. Therefore, twelve to fifteen pounds of +provisions, carefully selected from the ration already suggested, will +meet the utmost needs. In selecting the ration it is well to eliminate +all luxuries. It may also be said that canned goods are too heavy, +where one is to pack more than a two-days' supply, and bacon should be +made the basis of the meat diet. But then we are considering methods +of packing and carrying, rather than check lists. Limiting the quantity +to fifteen pounds for a five-days' trip--and this is ample with +judicious selection--the individual will be left to decide his ration +for himself. + +Saddle bags will be found indispensable and in them will be ample +room to carry the limited toilet articles required, a hand towel, one +change of light woolen or summer underwear, matches, tobacco and rifle +cartridges. The best shelter is a lean-to tent, made of extra light +cloth. This should be about seven feet long, four and one-half feet +high and four feet deep. Such a tent will weigh about three pounds. + +The cooking outfit will be limited to essentials. If it can be had an +aluminum army or "Preston" mess kit, either of which weighs about two +pounds, a sheath knife with broad blade, and a pint cup, will fill all +requirements. If the mess kit cannot be procured, a small frying pan +with folding handle, an aluminum or enamel plate and a dessert spoon +with sheath knife, and a pint cup, will do nearly as well. In this +latter case coffee may be made in the cup. A small canteen, which may +be hung upon the saddle horn, should also be provided. + +A small belt axe that weighs about two pounds, with sheath, a lariat +and a few feet of rope will be required. + +A single blanket or a pair of light blankets not exceeding five pounds +in weight will constitute the only bedding that can be conveniently +carried. + +To pack the outfit spread tent flat upon the ground, turning the +triangular ends in to lie flat. Fold the tent once, end for end. +This will make a rectangular pack cloth three and one-half feet long +and about five and one-half feet wide. Fold your blanket to a size a +little smaller than tent and spread it flat upon the tent. Arrange your +provision packages on the blanket a foot or so from one end and with a +margin of a foot or more on either side. Fold the end of blanket and +tent up and over the packages and roll up blanket and tent together +with a band close to the knob in center to hold the packages in place +and prevent their working down toward ends of roll. + +The provisions should be thoroughly protected in bags, as previously +suggested, in order that they may not soil the blanket. + +Place the roll directly behind saddle seat with the bulge caused by the +provision bulk resting against saddle seat, the end of roll falling +on either side, and tie in position by means of leather tie strings +attached to saddle on each side. The tie should be made in both cases +just below the bulge in roll. + +The tent will protect blanket and provisions, and if judgment has been +used in the selection and arrangement of provisions the bulk should not +be unduly or inconveniently large. The cooking kit, if enclosed in a +canvas case with handle, may be lashed to roll by passing lash string +through the handle and over the top and around the kit. A strap above +the upper loop of the rifle boot and through the belt loop on the axe +scabbard will hold the axe and another buckled around the rifle boot +and lower end of handle will prevent a slapping motion of the handle. + +The poncho, neatly rolled, may be carried on the pommel, the center +of the roll pressed against the back of the horn, the ends drawn down +and forward of the pommel on either side and secured with the leathern +tie strings attached to the saddle. When not in use sweater or Pontiac +shirt may be carried with the poncho. + +The horse may be picketed with the lariat. Hobbles may be made as +cowboys make them from rope. A strand unraveled from half-inch rope +brought once around one leg, twisted rather tightly, the ends brought +around the other leg and secured in the twist between the legs, makes +a good hobble. Always fasten picket rope or hobble below the fetlock +just above the hoof--_never_ above the fetlock. + +The outfit here outlined will weigh, including rifle and a reasonable +amount of ammunition, from forty to forty-five pounds at the utmost, +and one may be very comfortable with it. If game and fish can be caught +and are to be depended upon, the provisions may be cut down to a little +flour, bacon, coffee and sugar, and the traveler may tarry in the +wilderness for a considerable time. + +One may leave out the tent, and in a warm climate even the blanket, +relying for shelter wholly upon the poncho. An experienced man will +often limit his cooking outfit to a cup and canteen. A good strong +reliable horse, a good saddle equipment, and enough plain food is all +one really needs who has experience in wilderness travel. Such a man +can make himself comfortable with exceedingly little. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +AFOOT IN SUMMER + + +On the portage one may carry a pretty heavy pack and think nothing of +it, for the end of the portage and the relaxation of the paddle is just +ahead. The portage is merely an incident of the canoe trip. + +The foot traveler, however, has no canoe to carry him and his outfit +five or ten miles for every mile he carries his outfit. He must carry +both himself and his outfit the entire distance traversed. This is +obvious, and it leads to the conclusion that the outfit must be +accordingly reduced both in weight and bulk. + +How heavy a load may be easily transported depends, of course, upon the +man, but it is safe to say that the inexperienced will find twenty-five +pounds a heavy enough burden, and within this limit must be included +shelter, bed, and one week's provisions; though ordinarily the tramper +will be able to renew his supply of provisions almost daily. + +Under all ordinary circumstances a single woolen blanket weighing not +to exceed three pounds will be found ample summer bedding. A lean-to +shelter tent seven feet long, four feet wide and four feet high of +one of the light tenting materials previously described, weighs less +than three pounds and furnishes ample and comfortable shelter. Blanket +and tent may be carried easily in a roll, the tent on the outside to +protect the blanket. + +To make the roll spread the tent upon the ground, fold the blanket +once, end for end, and spread it upon the tent, the sides of the +blanket (_not_ folded ends) toward the ends of the tent. Fold in ends +of tent over blanket and roll up. Double the roll and tie together a +little above the ends with a stout string. The roll, dropped over the +head with center resting upon one shoulder and the tied ends coming +together near the hip on the opposite side, may be carried with little +inconvenience. Blankets are usually seventy-two inches wide, therefore +the roll should be about six feet in length before it is doubled and +the ends tied. + +A belt axe will be carried, in a sheath, upon the belt, the remaining +equipment and provisions in a Nessmuk pack or a ruck sack. The Nessmuk +pack, sold by most outfitters, is about 12 x 20 x 5 inches in size +and made of waterproofed canvas. This will easily hold a nine-inch +frying pan with folding handle, an aluminum pan 7 x 3 inches with +folding handle, a pint cup (if you do not wish to carry the cup on your +belt), a spoon or two, a cooking knife, a dish cloth and a dish towel, +together with one week's provisions, matches, etc. There will still +be room for a small bag containing the few needed toilet articles and +hand towel, and another small bag containing one change of light-weight +woolen underwear and two pairs of socks. + +The cooking outfit indicated is limited, but quite ample. I have done +very well for weeks at a time with no other cooking utensils than a +pint cup and a sheath knife. But here we cannot go into woodcraft +or extreme concentration of rations and outfit. We are considering, +rather, comfortable or moderately comfortable outfits and how to pack +or transport them. + +Tent, blanket, axe, food and other equipment above suggested will, if +intelligently selected, not go beyond the twenty-five pound limit. The +greatest weight will be in the food, and each day will reduce this +about two pounds. If provisions can be purchased from day to day these, +of course, need not be carried, and the remaining load will be very +light indeed. + +I would suggest that a light sweater take the place of a coat as it +will be found more comfortable and useful and may be carried on top of +the pack or in the blanket roll, for it will rarely be worn save in the +evening camp. + +A broad-brimmed felt hat, an outer shirt of medium-weight flannel, +khaki trousers and strong but not too heavy shoes make a practical and +comfortable costume. Woolen socks protect the feet from chafing. Some +campers like long German stockings, which serve also for leggings, +and wear thin cotton socks inside them. In selecting shoes take into +consideration the kind of socks or stockings to be worn, and see that +the shoes are amply large though not too large, for shoes too large are +nearly as uncomfortable as shoes too small. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +WITH SNOWSHOES AND TOBOGGAN + + +In the mode of travel here to be considered the voyageur, equipped +with snowshoes, hauls his provisions and entire camping paraphernalia +upon a toboggan or flat sled. The toboggan (Indian ta'-bas-kan') +had its origin in the prehistoric past among the Algonquin Indians +of northeastern America. It was designed by them for the purpose of +transporting goods over trackless, unbeaten snow wastes where sleds +with runners could not be used, and for this purpose it is unequaled. + +While for our purpose the conventionalized toboggan sold by outfitters +and designed for hill sliding and general sport will answer very +well, the wilderness model in use by Indians and trappers in our +northern wilderness is a better designed and preferable type for the +transportation of loads. + +Various lengths of toboggans are in use, each intended for the +particular purpose for which it was built. The longest Indian toboggan +I ever saw was twelve feet in length, but from six to eight feet is the +ordinary length, with a width of nine inches at the tip of the curved +nose, gradually increasing to fourteen inches wide where the curve ends +and the sliding surface or bottom begins, and tapering away to about +six inches wide at the heel. The conventionalized type averages from +four to six feet in length with a uniform width of about fifteen inches +from curve to heel. + +Some three or more crossbars, depending upon the length of the +toboggan, are lashed at intervals across the top, the forward one at +the beginning of the curve where the nose begins to turn upward, and on +either side of the toboggan from front to rear side bar, and fastened +to the side bars at their ends are side ropes. + +Beaver-tail, bear's-paw, or swallow-tail snowshoes, of Indian make, are +the shapes best adapted to the sort of travel we are considering. These +models are all broad and comparatively short. The web should be of good +caribou babiche, closely woven for use upon dry snow, and indeed for +all-around conditions. While on wet, soggy snow a coarse web may in +some respects be preferable it will not compare in efficiency with the +close web on loose snow, or for all-around work under all sorts of +conditions. Long, narrow snowshoes may be very good for racing where +the country is smooth, but they are not suited to a rough, wooded or +broken country or to hummocky snow. + +The best and most practical, as well as the simplest sling or binding +for the snowshoe is made as follows: Cut from an Indian tanned buckskin +a thong about half an inch wide and thirty inches in length. Thread +one end of this, from above down, through the web at one side of the +toe hole, and from the bottom up at the opposite side. Pull it through +until the two ends are even. Draw the thong up at the middle, where +it crosses the toe hole, to make a loop large enough to admit the toe +under it, but not large enough to permit the toe to slide forward +against the forward cross-bar. Wrap the two ends of the thong around +center of loop two or three times bringing them forward over the top +and drawing them under and back through the loop. Slip your toes under +the loop, bring the ends of the thong back, one on either side of the +foot, and tie snugly in the hollow above your heel. + +This sling will hold well, will not chafe the foot, and with it the +snowshoe may be kicked free from the foot or adjusted to the foot in an +instant. + +Should the thongs stretch in moist weather, the sling may be tightened +by simply taking an additional turn or two (without untying) around the +toe loop. + +I believe that lamp-wicking would answer as well as buckskin thongs, +though I have never used it because I have always carried an ample +supply of buckskin. + +The best underclothing for the winter trail is good weight--though not +the heaviest--woolen. Two suits should be carried besides the suit +worn. Underclothing should not fit the body too snugly. It is better +that it should be a size too large than an exact fit. + +The outer shirt should be of flannel, and of good quality, though not +too heavy. + +Hudson's Bay Company trappers wear good-weight moleskin trousers, +almost entirely to the exclusion of other fabrics, and I adopted them +several years ago as superior to any other. They are wind-proof and +warm and are particularly well adapted to the rough work of the trail. + +The ordinary coat is not at all adapted to the northern wilderness +in winter, for it will not protect against drifting snow and driving +blizzard. In its stead the Eskimo adickey should be worn. + +Any seamstress who can cut and make an ordinary work shirt can make an +adickey if your outfitter cannot supply it. This garment is slipped on +over the head like a shirt, and has a hood attached to draw over the +cap as a neck and head protection. The neck opening is large enough to +permit the head to pass through it without the necessity of a buttoned +opening in front, for no matter how closely buttoned a garment may be +drifting snow will find its way in. In length the adickey reaches half +way between hip and knees and is made circular at the bottom. The hood +should be of ample proportion to pull over the cap loosely, with a +drawstring encircling the front by which it may be drawn snugly to the +face. A fringe of muskrat or other fur around the face increases the +comfort, the fur acting as a protection against drifting snow. While +white Hudson's Bay Company kersey cloth is a favorite fabric for this +garment, it may be made of any woolen blanket duffle or similar cloth. + +Over the kersey adickey another adickey of some smooth-surfaced, strong +material, preferably moleskin, should be worn. This outside adickey +should of course be just enough larger than the kersey or blanket +adickey to fit over it easily. The adickeys may be worn singly or +together, according to the demands of the weather. + +A Pontiac shirt, to be worn under the adickeys in extremely cold +weather, should be included in the outfit. This will serve, too, in +camp, when the adickeys are laid aside. + +A round cap of fur or heavy cloth provided with flaps to turn down over +the ears makes the best head protection. The hoods of the two adickeys, +as before stated, should be large enough to draw over this. + +Very important indeed is the question of foot dress. Not only must we +aim to secure the greatest possible freedom and ease in walking, but +the ever-present danger of frostbite must also be guarded against. + +Socks should be of wool, of the home-knit variety, and besides the pair +worn, three or four extra pairs should be carried in the kit. + +Knit socks will not be sufficient protection, however, and where two +or three pairs are worn they are certain to bunch or wrinkle, with +chafed and sore feet as a result. All Hudson's Bay Company stores keep +in stock a white fuzzy woolen duffle of blanket thickness. If you are +making your start from a Post purchase some of this duffle and have +one of the women at the Post make you a pair of knee-length stockings +of the duffle to pull over your knit socks, and two pairs of slippers +of the same material, one just large enough to fit over the foot of +the long stockings, the other just a little larger to fit over all. +These should be made of proper size, to obviate wrinkles. The larger +outfitters carry in stock good wool duffle, and will make these to fit +properly. + +In crisp, cold weather, when the snow never softens or gets moist even +under the midday sun, buckskin moccasins should be the outer footwear. +Ordinary leather will freeze stiff, stop the proper circulation of +blood, and certainly lead to frosted feet. The moccasins should be +made with high tops, reaching above the ankles, with buckskin strings +to wrap around and secure them. Moccasins are light to pack, and it is +always well to carry a couple of extra pairs, to have on hand in case +of emergency. + +Leggings of moleskin (or some other strong, pliable cloth) large enough +to push the foot through protect the legs. These should be knee high, +with a drawstring to secure them just below the knee. Ordinary canvas +leggings will not do. The leggings _must_ be made in one piece, without +side buttons or other fastenings, for otherwise snow will work through +to the great discomfort of the wearer. + +I have a pair of buckskin moccasins sewn to legs of harbor sealskin, +the hair side of the sealskin out. This arrangement is preferable to +separate leggings but sealskin legs are difficult to procure. + +Ordinarily I have found one pair of knit socks, one pair of the long +duffle stockings described above and one pair of the duffle slippers, +worn inside the buckskin moccasins, quite sufficient. + +The knit socks may be done away with entirely and also one pair of +duffle slippers if rabbit-skin socks are to be had. These are worn with +the hair next the foot, and are very warm and soft. + +In weather when the snow softens and becomes wet at midday, buckskin +moccasins will not do, for the least moisture penetrates buckskin. In +such weather sealskin boots are the best foot protection. They are +waterproof, pliable and light. Sealskin boots for this purpose have +neither soles nor heels. They are simply sealskin moccasins with legs, +secured with drawstrings below the knee. These are of Eskimo make, and +not generally obtainable though they may be purchased in Newfoundland. +Oil-tanned moccasins, or larrigans, are the next best moist-snow foot +gear. + +Buckskin mittens with one or two inner pairs of mittens of thick wool +duffle, will protect the hands in the coldest weather. One pair should +be a little smaller than the other, that it may fit snugly into the +larger pair without wrinkles, and the larger pair of a size to fit in +the same manner into the buckskin mittens. When the weather is too warm +for both pairs, one pair may be removed. A fringe of muskrat or other +fur around the wrists of the buckskin mittens protects the wrists from +drifting snow. + +A pad of rabbit-skin worn across the forehead will protect it from +intense cold. Hunting hoods of knit camel's hair worsted are a pretty +good head protection, particularly at night. They cover the whole head +except the face, and may be drawn up over the chin. Mouth and nose must +not be covered, or the breath will quickly form a mass of ice upon the +face. + +One caution, though it may seem a digression, may be made: If the nose +or cheeks become frosted, as will certainly happen sooner or later to +one traveling in a very low temperature, _do not rub snow upon the +frosted part_. Snow rubbed on is pretty certain to fracture and remove +sections of the skin. The Eskimo way is to hold or rub the frosted part +with the bare hand until frost has been removed, and is far superior. + +The clothing outfit above described will be found ample. Extra trousers +or other extra outer garments are not needed. _Let all hang loosely +upon the body._ Nothing should fit snugly. + +A pair of smoked or amber goggles should always be included in the +winter outfit. Amber is more effective than smoked glass, though +ordinarily the latter will do. The goggles should be fastened with a +string to slip over the back of the head. _No metal should touch the +flesh._ + +The best low temperature sleeping bag is one of caribou skin made with +the hair inside. Under ordinary conditions, however, a waterproofed +canvas bag lined with good woolen blankets will do as well, though such +a bag with sufficient blanket lining to give it warmth equal to that +of the caribou skin bag would be much heavier and more bulky than the +latter. A bag lined with four thicknesses of llama wool duffle (that +is, four thicknesses over and four beneath the sleeper), however, +should not weigh more than ten pounds, and would correspond in warmth +to one lined with blankets weighing twenty pounds. + +An A or wedge tent will be found the best model for winter travel. A +sheet-iron tent stove _with bottom_ and telescoping pipe will make the +tent warm and snug. The tent should be fitted with an asbestos ring at +the stovepipe hole as a protection. A pack cloth or tarpaulin will +serve as an adequate and comfortable tent floor. + +It is never safe or advisable for one to travel in the wilderness +alone, for a sprained ankle or broken leg in an isolated region would +be more than likely to result in death. + +In the Hudson Bay country two pounds of flour, one pound of fat pork, +with baking powder, tea and sugar, form the daily ration for a man. It +is well when possible to carry frozen fresh meat, free from bone, with +a proportion of desiccated vegetables to vary the diet. Butter makes +a tasty variety to the fat, for it will remain sweet at this season. +Prunes and chocolate are both worth while. + +Or if the journey is to be extended the menu may be simplified by +the introduction of pemmican and the elimination of other articles. +Pemmican is the best condensed food ever invented for cold weather +work. One pound of pemmican and a quarter pound of pilot biscuit, as +a daily ration, will sustain a man at hard work, though it will prove +a monotonous diet. The above is merely suggested as a basis. It may +be expanded or contracted as circumstances require without disturbing +its mean value. Let it be remembered, however, that ordinary bread and +other moist foodstuffs will freeze as hard as stone. Jerked venison +and desiccated vegetables make tasty and sustaining additions to the +ration, and will not freeze. + +A man is supposed to be able to haul at good speed upon a toboggan a +load equal to his own weight. Therefore two men, each weighing 150 +pounds, should between them haul 300 pounds. Camp equipment, tent axes, +guns, bedding, extra underclothing and all personal belongings of both, +if proper care be exercised in selection, should weigh not to exceed +140 pounds. Add 80 pounds of food, and we have 220 pounds, or a maximum +load of 110 pounds for each. The tent and general camp outfit is indeed +sufficient for four men. It is presumed that the aluminum cooking +outfit previously described will be chosen. Some eliminations, as, +for example, that of the folding baker, might easily be made without +serious loss of comfort. + +To secure the load upon the toboggan, arrange the bags in which it is +packed evenly, taking care that no part of the load extends beyond the +sides of the toboggan. Adjust the tarpaulin or canvas ground cloth +neatly over it. Secure one end of your lash rope to the side rope on +one side at the rear. Bring the other end over and under the side rope +opposite. Cross it back over the load and over and under side rope to +front of next crossbar, and so on to front crossbar, taking slack as +you proceed. From front to rear criss-cross rope in same manner over +load and under side ropes, forming diamonds where the rope crosses +itself on top of load. Bring the end of rope under side rope at rear, +take in all slack and tie. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +WITH DOGS AND KOMATIK + + +In considering equipment for dog and sledge traveling, we must +constantly bear in mind the necessity of keeping down weight and +bulk. Not long since, while visiting the establishment of a New York +City outfitter, I saw an equipment which a sportsman ambitious for +experience with dogs and komatik (sledge) had selected for a month's +journey which he was about to undertake. Exclusive of provisions there +was enough material to weight down four eight-dog teams. Among other +things was a specially designed tent stove that would have tipped the +scales at upwards of one hundred pounds. + +The would-be traveler declared with pride that he "did not intend to +have cold camps." It certainly gave me "cold feet" to contemplate his +outfit. It was the most ridiculous and impracticable conglomerate +aggregation of camping material that I have ever seen put together, +and I doubt if the would-be traveler ever found a sufficient number of +dogs at any one point to transport it. + +While it is the aim of every experienced camper to obtain the greatest +degree of comfort of which circumstances will admit, the voyager with +dogs cannot hope to carry with him the luxuries of a metropolitan +hotel, and one soon learns how little after all is really necessary to +make one comfortable. + +How much weight a team of eight good dogs can haul depends upon the +character of the country and the condition of the snow or ice. Under +very favorable conditions I have seen such a team make good progress +with twelve hundred pounds. Ordinarily, however, eight hundred pounds +is a full load, and if much rough ice, hilly country or soft snow is +encountered six hundred pounds will be found all too heavy. I have +heard of cases, when traveling was exceptionally good, of dogs covering +upwards of one hundred miles a day. The biggest day's travel I ever +made with dogs was sixty miles, but often I have toiled day after day, +pulling and hauling with the animals at the traces, lifting the komatik +over rough places, or packing a trail for the team with my snowshoes, +to find myself rewarded with less than ten miles when camping time +arrived. + +In selecting outfit the region to be visited will be a factor to take +into consideration. It would be quite impossible to discuss adequately +in a single chapter all the phases of dog travel to be provided for. +We shall therefore leave out of consideration polar outfitting, or +outfitting for other unusual work, which the reader of this will +scarcely be likely to undertake. + +The clothing suggested in the chapter on snowshoe and toboggan travel +is equally well suited to travel with dogs and komatik. Should the +voyager's ambition, however, draw him within the sub-arctic regions or +across the Arctic Circle some additional protection will be needed. + +In the far Arctic the natives wear trousers of either polar bear +skin or caribou skin, with an upper garment of caribou skin called, +in Greenland, the "kulutar;" in Labrador, the "kulutuk." The only +difference between the adickey and the kulutuk is that the one is made +of cloth, the other of caribou skin. In Ungava I supplied myself with +caribou skin trousers, which, as is the custom there, I drew on over my +moleskin trousers in windy or intensely cold weather. + +The kulutuk takes the place of the moleskin adickey. That is to +say, the kersey adickey worn under the kulutuk will be found ample +protection in any weather, and often the kulutuk of itself will be +found sufficient. + +Kulutuk and skin trousers are worn hair side out. Were they worn with +the hairy side in, they would accumulate moisture exuded by the body, +and the moisture would freeze, presently transforming the hair into a +mass of ice. A friend of mine going to the Arctic for the first time +as a member of one of Peary's early Greenland expeditions, turned his +kulutuk inside out and donned it with the hairy side next the body. +The Eskimos laughed, and resenting their levity he assured them it was +much warmer worn in that manner than as they wore it. "No," said one +of them, "if it were warmer worn that way the animals would wear their +fur inside." My friend quickly learned by experience the logic of the +Eskimo's argument. + +Deerskin kulutuk and trousers are not easily purchased, though along +any coast where seals are captured similar garments of sealskin may be +procured, which, though not equal to deerskin garments, answer very +well. The skin of the young harbor seal (the ranger seal) is best for +the purpose, as skins of other species are too thick and heavy. When +made of sealskin the upper garment is called a "netsek." + +I discovered when traveling among them that some of the Moravian +missionaries of the Labrador coast wore a buckskin suit under their +ordinary trousers and outer shirt. Such a suit is much lighter than +deerskin trousers and kulutuk, and serves nearly as well. It is not +difficult to purchase buckskin from which one may have such a suit +made. It is wind-proof and very light. + +All skin garments, including moccasins, should be sewn with animal +sinew. Ordinary thread will quickly break out and will not do. +Thread-sewn moccasins are factory-made, and will give very little +service. + +The types of snowshoes suggested in the chapter on snowshoe and +toboggan travel are the types also best suited to dog and komatik work. +Long snowshoes would be very much in the way when one has to go to the +traces and haul with the dogs or lift and assist the komatik over rough +places; and this becomes the rule rather than the exception as one goes +North. + +Let me insist that the web should be of good caribou babiche, and not +the ordinary rawhide used in many of the snowshoes offered for sale. +The former will not stretch when wet, while the latter will stretch and +bag so badly as to render the snowshoe practically useless. + +It is well to wrap the frame on either side where the babiche is +drawn around it, with buckskin or sealskin. Otherwise even a slight +crust upon the snow will in time cut the babiche strands. Wrapping the +snowshoe in this manner will at least double its life. + +What was said in reference to tent, small sheet-iron stove and general +camp and cooking outfit in the previous chapter will apply here, as +well as directions heretofore given for packing in waterproof bags. In +selecting the sleeping bag, give first preference to one of deerskin. + +In a barren region where firewood is not to be had, it will be +necessary to carry an alcohol or kerosene burner and stock of fuel. The +former is preferable on account of the low freezing point of alcohol. +Alcohol or oil should be secured in tin cases. It is regularly put up +in this way by dealers. + +In such a region, too, it may be necessary to carry snow knives with +which to cut blocks of snow for the erection of snow igloos as shelter. +These knives resemble somewhat the machete. One cannot, however, learn +to build a snow igloo properly without long practice. This phase of +the work is merely referred to as interesting; for anyone traveling +in a country where snow house shelter is necessary will secure the +assistance of a native, who will attend to proper sledge outfitting at +the point of departure. + +On regular lines of dog travel opportunities to renew the provision +supply will frequently occur, and cabins for night shelter will be +found. Therefore the food outfit will depend upon the country to be +traversed. Where long stretches occur between supply points, however, +fat pork, pilot bread, tea and sugar should form the basis. The very +best possible food, however, for this work is pemmican, pilot bread, +tea and sugar. Of course a little coffee may be carried, but it is +bulky. + +The traveler will make his selection carefully, building around pork, +pilot bread and pemmican with other articles of food like desiccated +vegetables from which water has been eliminated. Too much salt meat +opens the door to scurvy, unless sufficient variation in the way of +vegetables, fish, or fresh meat is introduced. Dessicated cranberries +are an excellent preventive. A man can do good hard work day in and day +out, as already stated, upon one pound of pemmican and a quarter pound +of pilot bread as a daily ration, and such a ration offers no danger of +scurvy. + +Dog pemmican is the best dog food, and the lightest, for dogs will +do pretty well upon one pound of pemmican each a day. To do well +the animals should be given plenty of fat, when pemmican is not +available, though not a clear fat diet, for that will make them sick. +Three-quarters of a pound of fat and three-quarters of a pound of meat +or fish is an ordinary ration. Dogs are fed but once a day--at night. + +The number of dogs in a team varies, but the average team is composed +of seven or eight. Eight or nine is the most economical number so far +as results are concerned. + +In the Northwest dogs are harnessed tandem. This is the white man's +method. In the Northeast they are harnessed fan fashion--the Eskimo +method. That is to say, each dog has an individual trace secured to +the end of a single thong, leading out from the bow of the komatik and +called the bridle. The individual traces are of various lengths. The +dog with the longest trace is the leader of the pack, and particularly +trained to respond to the driver's directions. The other dogs will +follow his lead. + +For open country and sea ice travel the Eskimo method is probably best, +as the work is more evenly distributed and the driver can always tell +whether each dog is doing his share of the work, but for narrow trails +and woods travel the tandem method is more practicable. + +Dogs are good, bad and indifferent. One seldom has an opportunity +to pick one's dogs discriminately, and rarely may one purchase them +outright unless contracted for a year in advance, for the native dog +owner seldom maintains animals in excess of his requirements in the +ordinary routine of his life. The traveler will usually be able, +however, to hire a team by employing the owner to drive it, and the +owner of a team will get much more work out of his dogs than a stranger +to the dogs can hope to do. + +At least a year's experience is necessary to enable a white man to +handle a dog team with anything approaching efficiency, and even then +one cannot hope to approach the performance of an Eskimo. The failure +to enlist Eskimos as dog drivers has been the real cause of the failure +of many an Arctic expedition. + +It is advised, then, that the traveler employ at so much per day or for +the trip driver and dogs. It is an unsafe experiment to start off with +a dog team unattended by an experienced man. The owner of the team will +supply also the necessary dog harness, his own dog whip and general dog +traveling paraphernalia, including the komatik. + +Sledges or komatiks vary in different localities as to width, length +and minor methods of construction. The average komatik is two +feet wide and ten feet long but as stated, they vary in different +localities, a uniform width being maintained to suit the local +conditions of the region in which they are used. For example, wide and +comparatively short komatiks are employed in Quebec, while the Ungava +komatik is but sixteen inches wide. These latter komatiks are usually +fifteen or sixteen feet in length, however. The runners stand ten +inches high. This is, in fact, the heaviest and most efficient komatik +I have ever seen. Each runner is made from a single piece of timber +and is from two and one-half to three inches thick. It is designed for +the roughest possible use, and is, I believe, better adapted to this +purpose than the Greenland komatik because more substantially built. +The latter is peculiar in that it has upstands at the rear for guiding +it. + +Crossbars, extending an inch or so on either side of the runners and +from one to two inches apart, are lashed into place with rawhide. When +the rawhide shrinks the komatik becomes firm. Iron fastenings being +rigid would break too readily, particularly in intense cold, to be +reliable. + +The traveler will do well, therefore, to purchase if he does not hire +his komatik at the point of departure, as in so doing he will secure +one of correct design for the region to be traversed. + +It is well to have a box made the width of the komatik two or three +feet long, and about fourteen inches deep to lash upon the rear end of +the komatik in which cooking utensils and a portion of the food supply, +as well as odds and ends, may be carried. This should be supplied with +a hinged cover, and hook or clasp by which the cover may be securely +fastened down. + +The best lash for securing the load in position is one of sealskin, +though ordinary hemp rope will do. Before lashing, the tarpaulin should +be neatly folded over the top of load to protect it. + +One end of the lash is secured to an end of the crossbar at the forward +end of the load, brought across the load and under the other end, then +across, skipping a couple of crossbars, and back again skipping a couple +of crossbars, thus threading it from side to side under the ends of +every second or third crossbar to the rear bar, where it is brought +across the load to the opposite end of this crossbar and crisscrossed +across the load again to the forward crossbar to be tied. + + +THE END + + + + +Transcriber's note: + +Inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been retained. +Punctuation has been normalized. + +The following errors have been corrected: + + * p. 46 "two or three hundreds" fixed to "... hundred" + * p. 51 Chapter VII: fixed numbering of topics + * p. 72 carelessless -> carelessness + * p. 85 change A_1 to A' to match the illustration + * p. 87 graps -> grasps + * p. 88 "betwee nthem" -> "between them" + * p. 90 fixed period instead of comma + * p. 90 graps -> grasps + * p. 119 removed redundant "of" + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Packing and Portaging, by Dillon Wallace + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PACKING AND PORTAGING *** + +***** This file should be named 44720.txt or 44720.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/4/4/7/2/44720/ + +Produced by Itay Perl and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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