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diff --git a/44794-h/44794-h.htm b/44794-h/44794-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c6fb332 --- /dev/null +++ b/44794-h/44794-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,11613 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Thames, by Mortimer Menpes. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +h1{ + text-align: center; + clear: both; + margin-top: 6em; +} + +h2 {text-align: center; + clear: both; + margin-top: 4em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + font-size: 1.2em; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: left; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + +.pagenum { + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + font-style: normal; +} +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-left: 33%; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; +} + +hr.l05 {width: 5%; + margin-left: 47%; + margin-top: .5em; + margin-bottom: .5em;} + +.center { text-align: center; } +.rjust {text-align: right;} + +.smcap { font-variant: small-caps; } + +.caption { + font-weight: bold; + margin-left: 15%; + margin-right: 15%; + text-align: center; + margin-bottom: 2em; +} + +ul.none { list-style-type:none; + margin-left: 20%; } +ul.sub { list-style-type: none; + margin-left: 2%;} +.alpha {margin-top: 1.5em;} + +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + +.figright { + float: right; + clear: right; + margin-left: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-right: 0; + padding: 0; + text-align: center; +} + +.figleft { + float: left; + clear: left; + margin-left: 0; + margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-right: 1em; + padding: 0; + text-align: center; +} + +.poetry-container { text-align: center; } + +.poem { + display: inline-block; + font-size: 95%; + margin-bottom: 1em; + text-align: left; +} + +@media handheld { + .poem { + display: block; + margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + +} + +.poem .stanza { + margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em; +} + +.poem p { + margin: 0; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; } + +.poem p.i1{ margin-left: 1em; } +.poem p.i2 { margin-left: 2em; } +.poem p.i3 { margin-left: 3em; } +.poem p.i4 { margin-left: 4em; } +.poem p.i6 {margin-left: 6em; } +.poem p.i7 {margin-left:7em; } +.poem p.i8 {margin-left:8em; } + +.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} +.p4 {margin-top: 4em;} +.p6 {margin-top: 6em;} + +.i1 { margin-left: 1em; } +.i2 { margin-left: 2em; } +.i3 { margin-left: 3em; } +.i4 { margin-left: 4em; } + +.b20 {font-size:2.0em;} +.b13 {font-size:1.3em;} +.b12 {font-size:1.2em;} +.b11 {font-size:1.1em;} +.s08 {font-size:.8em;} + +.blockquot { + margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 10%; + font-size: 90%; +} + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + empty-cells: show; +} + +td {padding-left: 1em; + padding-right: 1em; + padding-top: .3em; + padding-bottom: .3em; + vertical-align: top; +} + +.tdc { text-align: center;} +.tdchap {text-align: center; + padding-top: 1em;} +.tdr { text-align: right; } + +.tdh { text-indent: -1em; + margin-left: 1em; + padding-bottom: 1.25em;} + +.tnbox { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + margin-bottom: 8em; + margin-top: auto; + text-align: center; + border: 1px solid; + padding: 1em; + color: black; + background-color: #f6f2f2; + width: 25em; +} + +.bbox { + border: solid 2px; + margin-left: 20%; + margin-right: 20%; + padding-bottom: .5em; + padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; + padding-right: .5em; +} +.ibox { + border: solid 2px; + border-collapse: collapse; + margin-top: .3em; + margin-bottom: .3em; + padding-bottom: .5em; + padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; + padding-right: .5em; +} + + </style> + </head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44794 ***</div> + +<div class="tnbox"> +<p class="center"><b>Transcriber's Note:</b></p> +<p>Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. +Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation in the original +document have been preserved.</p> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="421" height="600" alt="Cover" /> +</div> + +<h1> +THE THAMES +</h1> + +<div class="bbox p6"> +<div class="ibox"> +<p class="center"> +<span class="smcap">Volumes in this Series by</span><br /> +<span class="smcap">Mortimer Menpes</span> +</p> +</div> +<div class="ibox"> +<p class="center"> +EACH <b>20s.</b> NET<br /> +WITH ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR +</p> + +<hr class="l05" /> + +<p class="center"> +THE DURBAR<br /> +JAPAN · WORLD'S CHILDREN<br /> +WORLD PICTURES · VENICE<br /> +WAR IMPRESSIONS<br /> +INDIA · BRITTANY<br /> +</p> +</div> +<div class="ibox"> +<p class="center"> +<i>Published by</i><br /> +<span class='smcap'>A. & C. Black. Soho Square. London. W.</span> +</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="center p4"> +<i>AGENTS</i> +</p> + +<table summary="Publishers"> +<tr> +<td>AMERICA</td> +<td class="tdh">THE MACMILLAN COMPANY<br /> + <span class='smcap'>64 & 66 Fifth Avenue</span>, NEW YORK</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>CANADA</td> +<td class="tdh">THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD.<br /> + <span class='smcap'>27 Richmond Street</span>, TORONTO</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>INDIA</td> +<td class="tdh">MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD.<br /> + <span class='smcap'>Macmillan Building</span>, BOMBAY<br /> + <span class='smcap'>309 Bow Bazaar Street</span>, CALCUTTA</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<div class="figcenter p6"><a name="i004" id="i004"></a> +<img src="images/i-004.jpg" width="423" height="550" alt="" /> + +</div> + +<div class="blockquot p6"> +<p class="center b20"> +THE THAMES</p> + +<p class="center b13">BY MORTIMER MENPES, R.I.<br /> +TEXT BY G. E. MITTON<br /> +PUBLISHED BY A.&C. BLACK<br /> +SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.</p> +<div class="figright p2"><a name="i007" id="i007"></a> +<img src="images/i-007.jpg" width="55" height="55" alt="" /> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="center p6 s08"> +<i>Published July 1906</i> +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_v' name='Page_v'>[v]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter p6"><a name="i009" id="i009"></a> +<img src="images/i-009.jpg" width="550" height="353" alt="" /> + +</div> + +<h2> +CONTENTS +</h2> + +<table summary="Table of Contents"> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER I</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> </td> + <td class="tdr"><span class="s08">PAGE</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>The Beauty of the River</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER II</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>The Oxford Meadows</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER III</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>The Old Town of Abingdon</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER IV</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>Dorchester and Sinodun Hill</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_vi' name='Page_vi'>[vi]</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER V</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>Castle and Stronghold</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER VI</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>Twin Villages</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_57">57</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER VII</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>A Mitred Abbot</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER VIII</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>Sonning and its Roses</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER IX</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>Wargrave and Neighbourhood</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER X</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>Henley</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER XI</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>The Romance of Bisham and Hurley</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_105">105</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER XII</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>Boulter's Lock and Maidenhead</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_128">128</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER XIII</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>Windsor and Eton</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_140">140</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_vii' name='Page_vii'>[vii]</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER XIV</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>Magna Charta</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_155">155</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER XV</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>Penton Hook</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_161">161</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER XVI</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>Weybridge and Chertsey</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_167">167</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER XVII</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>The Londoner's Zone</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_177">177</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER XVIII</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>The River at London</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_205">205</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdchap" colspan="2">CHAPTER XIX</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>Our National Possession</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_231">231</a></td> + </tr> +<tr> +<td> </td> +</tr> + <tr> + <td><span class='smcap'>Index</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_243">243</a></td> + </tr> +</table> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_ix' name='Page_ix'>[ix]</a></span> +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_viii' name='Page_viii'></a></span> +</p> + +<h2> +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS +</h2> + +<table summary="List of Illustrations"> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">1. </td> + <td colspan="2">Punting</td> + <td class="tdr"><i><a href="#i004">Frontispiece</a></i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr" colspan="4"><span class="s08">PAGE</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">2. </td> + <td>Thames Ditton</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i009">v</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">3. </td> + <td>Sutton Courtney, Culham Bridge</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i017">1</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">4. </td> + <td>Pangbourne</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i023">4</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">5. </td> + <td>Dorchester Abbey</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i031">8</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">6. </td> + <td>Day's Lock</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i039">12</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">7. </td> + <td>Near the Bridge, Sutton Courtney</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i045">14</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">8. </td> + <td>Streatley Inn</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i053">18</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">9. </td> + <td>Sandford Lock</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i061">25</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">10. </td> + <td>Iffley</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i067">28</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">11. </td> + <td>Radley College Boat-house</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i077">34</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">12. </td> + <td>Almshouses of Abingdon</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i081">37</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">13. </td> + <td>Abingdon</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i085">38</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">14. </td> + <td>The Mill at Abingdon</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i091">40</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">15. </td> + <td>Sutton Courtney Backwater</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i097">42</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">16. </td> + <td>Clifden Hampden from the Bridge</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i103">44</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">17. </td> + <td>Clifden Hampden</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i109">46</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">18. </td> + <td>Hurley</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i111">47</a><span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_x' name='Page_x'>[x]</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">19. </td> + <td>Cottages, Dorchester</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i115">48</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">20. </td> + <td>White Hart Hotel, Dorchester</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i121">50</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">21. </td> + <td>Dorchester Backwater</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i127">52</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">22. </td> + <td>Danesfield</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i129">53</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">23. </td> + <td>Wallingford</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i133">54</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">24. </td> + <td>Streatley Mill</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i139">56</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">25. </td> + <td>Goring Bridge</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i141">57</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">26. </td> + <td>Streatley</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i145">58</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">27. </td> + <td>Goring Church</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i151">60</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">28. </td> + <td>Goring</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i157">62</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">29. </td> + <td>Pangbourne, from the Swan Hotel</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i163">64</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">30. </td> + <td>Whitchurch Lock</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i165">64</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">31. </td> + <td>Mapledurham Mill</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i171">66</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">32. </td> + <td>Evening</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i173">67</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">33. </td> + <td>Caversham</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i179">70</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">34. </td> + <td>Paddling</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i182">72</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">35. </td> + <td>The Rose Garden at Sonning</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i185">72</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">36. </td> + <td>Sonning</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i193">76</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">37. </td> + <td>St. George and the Dragon, Wargrave</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i198">80</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">38. </td> + <td>The Church at Wargrave</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i201">80</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">39. </td> + <td>Barges at Oxford</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i219">97</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">40. </td> + <td>Red Lion Hotel, Henley</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i223">98</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">41. </td> + <td>Henley Regatta</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i229">100</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">42. </td> + <td>Hambleden</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i235">102</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">43. </td> + <td>Medmenham Abbey</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i239">105</a><span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xi' name='Page_xi'>[xi]</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">44. </td> + <td>General View of Marlow</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i243">106</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">45. </td> + <td>Quarry Woods</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i249">108</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">46. </td> + <td>Bisham Church</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i255">110</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">47. </td> + <td>Hurley Backwater</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i261">112</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">48. </td> + <td>Bisham Abbey</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i267">114</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">49. </td> + <td>Cookham, from above</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i282">128</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">50. </td> + <td>Boulter's Lock, Ascot Sunday</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i285">128</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">51. </td> + <td>Below Boulter's Lock</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i291">130</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">52. </td> + <td>Maidenhead</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i297">132</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">53. </td> + <td>Eton, from the Brocas</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i306">140</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">54. </td> + <td>Windsor Castle</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i309">140</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">55. </td> + <td>Windsor</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i317">144</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">56. </td> + <td>Eton Chapel, from the Fields</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i325">148</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">57. </td> + <td>Magna Charta Island</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i333">155</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">58. </td> + <td>Hedsor Fishery</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i339">161</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">59. </td> + <td>Temple Lock</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i345">167</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">60. </td> + <td>Walton Bridge</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i353">172</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">61. </td> + <td>Sunbury</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i359">174</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">62. </td> + <td>Hampton Court</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i363">177</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">63. </td> + <td>Hampton Court, from the River</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i367">178</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">64. </td> + <td>Marlow Church</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i395">205</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">65. </td> + <td>Beyond Hammersmith Bridge</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i399">206</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">66. </td> + <td>The Custom House</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i405">208</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">67. </td> + <td>Dutch Barges near the Tower</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i411">210</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">68. </td> + <td>The Tower of St. Magnus</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i417">212</a><span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_xii' name='Page_xii'>[xii]</a></span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">69. </td> + <td>St. Paul's</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i423">214</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">70. </td> + <td>The Houses of Parliament</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i429">216</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">71. </td> + <td>Westminster by Night</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i435">218</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">72. </td> + <td>Hay Barges near Westminster Bridge</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i443">222</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">73. </td> + <td>Chelsea Reach, with the Old Church</td> + <td class="tdc">"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i451">226</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">74. </td> + <td>View from Richmond Hill</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i457">231</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">75. </td> + <td>From Battersea Bridge</td> + <td class="tdc"><i>Facing</i></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i461">232</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3" class="tdc"><i><a href="#i479">Sketch Map at end of Volume</a></i></td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p class="center p4"> +<i>The Illustrations in this volume were engraved and printed at +the Menpes Press, Watford.</i> +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_1' name='Page_1'>[1]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter p6"><a name="i017" id="i017"></a> +<img src="images/i-017.jpg" width="550" height="354" alt="" /> + +</div> + +<h2> +CHAPTER I<br /><br /><span class="s08"> +THE BEAUTY OF THE RIVER +</span></h2> + +<p> +Close your eyes and conjure up a vision of the +river Thames; what is the picture that you see? If +you are a prosaic and commercial person, whose +business lies by the river side, the vision will be +one of wharves and docks, of busy cranes loading +and unloading; a row of bonded warehouses +rising from the water's edge; lighters filled with +tea lying in their shadow, tarpaulined and padlocked; +ships of all sizes and shapes, worn by +water and weather. And up and down, in and +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_2' name='Page_2'>[2]</a></span> +out, among it all you see river police on their +launch, inquisitive and determined, watching everything, +hearing everything, and turning up when +least expected. The glories of the high Tower +Bridge, and the smoky gold of the setting sun +will not affect you, for your thoughts are fixed +on prosaic detail. As for green fields and quiet +backwaters, such things do not enter into the +vision at all. +</p> + +<p> +Yet for one who sees the Thames thus prosaically, +a hundred see it in a gayer aspect. To +many a man it is always summer there, for the +river knows him not when the chill grey days +draw in. He sees gay houseboats in new coats +of paint, decorated with scarlet geraniums and +other gaudy plants. He associates the river with +"a jolly good time" with a carefully chosen house-party, +with amateur tea-making and an absence +of care. Nowhere else is one so free to "laze" +without the rebuke even of one's own occasionally +too zealous conscience. +</p> + +<p> +To another the Thames simply means the Boat +Race, nothing more and nothing less. Year by year +he journeys up to London from his tiny vicarage +in the heart of the country for that event. If the +high tide necessitates it, he stands shivering on the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_3' name='Page_3'>[3]</a></span> +brink in the chill whiteness of early morning. He +sits on the edge of a hard wooden cart for an +immense time, and, by way of keeping up his +strength, eats an indigestible penny bun, a thing +that it would never enter his head to do at any other +time. He sees here and there one or the other of +those school-fellows or university chums who have +dropped out of his life for all the rest of the year. +Then, after a moment's shouting, a moment's +tense anxiety or bitter disappointment, according +to the position of the boats, the flutter of a +flag, and a thrill of something of the old enthusiasm +that the unsparing poverty of his life has +slowly ground out of him, he retires to his vicarage +again for another year, elated or depressed according +to the result of the race. +</p> + +<p> +To others Henley is the embodiment of all +that is joyous; the one week in the year that is +worth counting. But to others, and these a vast +majority of those who know the river at all, the +Thames means fresh and life-giving air after a +week spent within four walls. It means congenial +exercise and light, and the refreshment that +beauty gives, even if but half realised. It means a +quiet dream with a favourite pipe in a deep backwater +so overhung with trees that it resembles a +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_4' name='Page_4'>[4]</a></span> +green tunnel. The gentle drone of the bees +sounds from the banks, there is a flash of blue +sheen as a kingfisher darts by; a gentle dip and +slight crackling tell of another favoured individual +making his way cautiously along to the same sheltered +alley; the radiant sunlight falls white upon the +water through the leaves and sends shimmering +reflections of dancing ripples on the sides of the +punt. Such a position is as near Paradise as it +is given to mortal to attain. +</p> + +<p> +These are only a few of an inexhaustible variety +of aspects of this glorious river, and each reader +is welcome to add his own favourite to the list. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i023" id="i023"></a> +<img src="images/i-023.jpg" width="550" height="440" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">PANGBOURNE</p> +</div> +<p> +For the purposes of this book we are dealing +with the Thames between Oxford and London, +though as a matter of fact, tradition has it that +the Thames proper does not begin until below +Oxford, where it is formed by the junction of the +Thame and the Isis. Tamese (Thames) means +"smooth spreading water." Tam is the same root +as occurs in Tamar, etc., and the "es" is the perpetually +recurring word for water, <i>e.g.</i>, Ouse, ooze, +usquebagh. Isis is probably a back formation, from +Tamesis. In Drayton's <i>Polyolbion</i>, we have the +pretty allegory of the wedding of Thame and Isis, +from which union is born the sturdy Thames. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_5' name='Page_5'>[5]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Now Fame had through this Isle divulged in every ear +</p> +<p> +The long expected day of marriage to be near, +</p> +<p> +That Isis, Cotswold's heir, long woo'd was lastly won, +</p> +<p> +And instantly should wed with Thame, old Chiltern's son. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +In Spenser's <i>Faërie Queene</i> the notion is +carried one step further, and Thames, the son of +Thame and Isis, is to wed with Medway, a far-fetched +conceit, for the rivers do not run into each +other in any part of their course. +</p> + +<p> +It is strange that a river such as the Thames, +which, though by no means great as regards size, +has played an important part in the life of the +nation, should not have inspired more writers. +There is no striking poem on the Thames. The +older poets, Denham, Drayton, Spenser, Cowley, +Milton, and Pope, all refer to the river more or +less frequently, but they have not taken it as a +main theme. It is even more neglected by later +poets. There are poems to special parts or scenes, +such as Gray's well-known "Ode on a Distant +Prospect of Eton College"; the river colours one +or two of Matthew Arnold's poems; but the great +poem, which shall take it as a sole theme, is yet +to come. Neither is there a good book on this +river, though it is among rivers what London is +among the cities of men. Yet the material is +abundant, and associations are scattered thickly +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_6' name='Page_6'>[6]</a></span> +along the banks. No fewer than seven royal +palaces have stood by the river. And of these one +is still the principal home of our sovereign. Of +the others, Hampton Court, chiefly reminiscent +of William III., is standing. The neighbouring +palace of Richmond remains but in a fragment. +At London, Westminster, the home of our early and +mediæval kings, has vanished, except for the great +hall and a crypt. Whitehall—the old palace—is +wholly gone, though one part of the new palace +projected by James I. remains. As for the old +palace of Greenwich, so full of memories of the +Tudors, that has been replaced by a later structure. +I hesitate to name Kew in this list, so entirely +unworthy is it of the name of palace, yet, as the +residence of a king it should, perhaps, find a place. +</p> + +<p> +From the annals of these palaces English history +could be completely reconstructed from the time +of Edward the Confessor to the present day. +</p> + +<p> +But it is not in historical memories alone that +the Thames is so rich. Poets, authors, politicians, +and artists have crowded thickly on its banks +from generation to generation. The lower reaches +are haunted by the names of Hogarth, Cowley, +Thomson; further up we come to the homes of +Walpole, Pope, and Fielding. At Laleham lived +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_7' name='Page_7'>[7]</a></span> +Matthew Arnold. Not far from Magna Charta +Island is Horton, where Milton lived. Though +his home was not actually on the river, Milton +must have often strolled along the banks of the +Thames, and many of his poems show the impress +of associations gathered from such scenery as is to +be found about Ankerwyke and Runneymead: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Straight mine eye hath caught new pleasures, +</p> +<p> +While the landscape round it measures: +</p> +<p> +Russet lawns and fallows gray, +</p> +<p> +Where the nibbling flocks do stray. +</p> +<p> +Meadows trim with daisies pied; +</p> +<p> +Shallow brooks and rivers wide. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +From the records of Eton alone many a book +might be compiled of the lives of men in the public +eye, whose impressions were formed there by the +Thames side. Indeed, had the river no other +claim to notice than its connection with Eton +and Oxford, through which more men who have +controlled the destiny of their country and made +empire have passed, than through any similar +foundations in England, this alone would be cause +enough to make it a worthy subject for any book. +</p> + +<p> +Beside palaces and the homes of great men, +castles and religious houses once stood thickly +along the banks of the river. The notable monasteries +of Reading, Dorchester, Chertsey, and +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_8' name='Page_8'>[8]</a></span> +Abingdon, etc., were widely celebrated as seats +of learning in their day, and the castles of Reading, +Wallingford, and Oxford were no less well +known. +</p> + +<p> +It is a curious law in rivers that, as a whole, the +windings usually cover double the length of the +direct axis, and the Thames is no exception to the +rule. It sweeps in and out with a fair amount of +regularity, the great bend to the south at Thames +Ditton and Weybridge being reversed higher up in +the great bend to the north at Bourne End and +Hambleden. Naturally the sides of these indentations +run north and south instead of in the usual +course of east and west. From Wargrave to +Henley the current is almost due north, and +likewise from Surbiton to Brentford. A more +apparent curve, because much smaller in radius, is +that at Abingdon; here the course by the stream +is about nine miles, in contrast to the two overland. +The Great Western Railway is the chief river +railway, but as it runs a comparatively straight +course between London and Didcot, some places +on the great curves are considerably off the +main line, and are served by branches. After +Reading it keeps very close to the river as far +as Moulsford, and is not distant from it the rest +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_9' name='Page_9'>[9]</a></span> +of the way to Oxford, as it turns almost direct +north from Didcot Junction. The Great Western +Railway is ably supplemented by the London and +South Western Railway, from which the lesser +stations on the south of the river near to London +can be reached, also the districts of Twickenham, +Hampton, etc., included in the chapter called +"The Londoners' Zone." Further up, Weybridge, +Chertsey, Egham, and Windsor can also be +reached by this railway, which cuts a curve and +touches the river again at Reading. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i031" id="i031"></a> +<img src="images/i-031.jpg" width="550" height="441" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">DORCHESTER ABBEY +</p> + +</div> +<p> +There are many zones on the river, and each has +its devotees. It is curious to notice how one +crowd differs from another crowd on its "people-pestered +shores." It is difficult to draw hard and +fast lines, but taking the boundaries of the London +County Council as the end of London, we can +count above it many zones, rich in beauty, divided +from each other by stretches of dulness; for, +beautiful as the river is, it must be admitted parts +of it are dull, though, like the patches on a fair +skin, these serve but to emphasise the characteristics +of the remainder. A rather dreary bit +succeeds Hammersmith, though this is not without +its own attractiveness, and the first real zone that +we can touch upon is that from Richmond to +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_10' name='Page_10'>[10]</a></span> +Hampton, which runs Maidenhead hard for first +place in popularity; but the Richmond and +Hampton river people are largely recruited from +the inhabitants, while those at Maidenhead are +mostly visitors. Passing over the waterworks and +embankments above Hampton, we begin another +zone, much less known because less accessible, but +in its own way more attractive than that of +Richmond. It is pure country, with green +fields, willow trees, cows grazing on the banks, +many curves and doublings in the channel of the +main stream, and ever varying vistas, and this +continues to beyond Weybridge. About Chertsey +the scenery is flat, but Laleham and Penton Hook +are two places that annually delight hundreds of +persons. +</p> + +<p> +Between Staines and Windsor there is a fairly +attractive stretch, with the park and woods of +Ankerwyke on one side, and the meadows on the +other. High on the south rises Cooper's Hill, and +beyond Albert Bridge we see the smoothly kept +turf of the Home Park. +</p> + +<p> +Windsor and Eton, of course, will require a +chapter to themselves. In this general description +it is sufficient to say that the influence of Eton is +apparent all the way to Bray. Then we start a +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_11' name='Page_11'>[11]</a></span> +new zone, the most popular one on the river, +that from Maidenhead to Bourne End. Of the +delights of this beautiful and varied section it is +unnecessary here to speak. But the Maidenhead +reach is spoilt for fastidious people by its too +great popularity. To those who love the river for +itself, the endless passing and repassing, the +impossibility of finding quiet, undisturbed corners, +the noise and merrymaking, even the sight of too +many fellow creatures, is a burden. From this the +part above Marlow is protected by being less +accessible. It is too far to be reached easily from +Maidenhead, and those who come by train have +an awkward change at a junction; therefore the +crowd finds it not. Yet the beauties are no less +admirable than those of the adored Maidenhead. +</p> + +<p> +At Hambleden the influence of Henley begins +to be felt, and above Henley we enter on another +zone. Nowhere else on the river are to be found +so many fascinating spots lying in the stream; +certainly, no other part offers so many tempting +backwaters. This is the zone for those who +love the country pure and simple, and who can +put up cheerfully with the inconveniences attendant +on the procuring of supplies, for the sake of the +quiet, marshy meadows. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_12' name='Page_12'>[12]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +The reach includes Sonning with its two bridges, +its islands, and its rose-garden; but beyond Sonning +dulness is apparent once more, and with the neighbourhood +of the great and smoky town of Reading, +charm withers. It is not until Mapledurham that +the prettiness of the river becomes again apparent, +and Mapledurham is rather an oasis, for in the +reach beyond it, though the great rounded chalk +hills grow opal in the sunlight, and the larks sing +heavenwards, the attractiveness cannot be called +beauty. From Pangbourne and Whitchurch to +Goring and Streatley, the river lies beneath the +chalk heights, which seem to dip underground, +reappearing on the other side by Streatley; and the +whole of the stretch, with its rich and varied woods, +its delightful islands and weirs, its pretty cottages +and churches, is full of charm. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i039" id="i039"></a> +<img src="images/i-039.jpg" width="550" height="434" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">DAY'S LOCK +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Beyond Cleeve Lock, with the single exception +of Mongewell, there is again dulness, though for +boating pure and simple the reach is very good. +Wallingford has a trim prettiness of its own, with +its clean-cut stone bridge and its drooping willow. +Park-like grounds and pleasant trees succeed, +Sinodun Hill looms up ahead, and one may +penetrate up the Thame to Dorchester, where the +willows nearly meet overhead. Day's Lock still +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_13' name='Page_13'>[13]</a></span> +belongs to the clean prettiness of the Wallingford +stretch, which, in fact, continues all the way to +Culham, notwithstanding that we pass the much +admired Clifton Hampden, where the church +stands high on the cliff. Culham itself is dull, but +with the pretty backwater of Sutton Courtney +we begin a new kind of scenery. Abingdon has +something of its richness and profusion, and +Nuneham Courtney woods, though not rising +so abruptly as those at Clieveden, are glorious. +After this we begin the famous meadows that +continue more or less all the way to Oxford, and +have a fascination of their own. +</p> + +<p> +The best way to see the river as a whole, for +those who can spare the time, is to go on Salter's +steamers, which run daily, Sundays excepted, +during the summer. The fare one way is 14s., +exclusive of food, and the night spent <i>en route</i>. +The trip takes two days, the steamer leaving +Kingston at 9 in the morning, and reaching Henley +at 7.15 in the evening. The reverse way, it leaves +Oxford at 9.30, and reaches Henley, which is +about half-way, at 7 in the evening. +</p> + +<p> +In this rough sketch it has been shown that +there is no lack of choice for those who seek their +pleasure on the river, and the opportunity meets +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_14' name='Page_14'>[14]</a></span> +with full response. Seen in sunshine on a summer +morning, especially if it be the end of the week, +the river is brilliant. The dainty coloured muslins +and laces, the Japanese parasols, the painted boats, +the large shady hats, the sparkle where the oars +meet the water, and the white sails of the sailing +boats bellying in the wind, are only a few items in +a sparkling picture. Fragile, yellow-white butterflies +and the richer coloured red admirals hover +about the banks; purple loose-strife, meadow-sweet, +and snapdragon grow on the banks with +many a tall gaudily coloured weed. Here and +there great cedars rise among the lighter foliage, +showing black against a turquoise sky; while on +the water, where the wind has ruffled it, there is +the "many twinkling smile" ascribed by Æschylus +to the ocean. But, to those who know the Thames, +this smiling aspect is not the only lovable one: +they know it also after rain, when the water comes +thundering over the weirs in translucent hoops +of vivid green, and the boiling foam below dances +like whipped cream. To walk along the sedgy +banks is to leave a trail of "squish-squash" with +every step. All the yellow and brown flat-leaved +green things that grow thickly near the +edges are barely able to keep their heads above +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_15' name='Page_15'>[15]</a></span> +the stream, and the long reeds bend with the +current like curved swords. Every little tributary +gushes gurgling to join in the mad race, and +the sounds that tell of water are in our ears like +the instruments in an orchestra. There are the +rush, the dip, and the tinkle, as well as the deep-throated +roar. Watching and listening, we feel a +strange sympathy with the new life brought by the +increased current; we feel as if it were flooding +through our own veins, and as if we, like the +squirming, wriggling things that live in the slime +below the flood-curtain, were waking up anew +after a long torpor. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i045" id="i045"></a> +<img src="images/i-045.jpg" width="550" height="448" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">NEAR THE BRIDGE, SUTTON COURTNEY</p> +</div> + +<p> +Even in late autumn, when the slow, white +mist rises from the marshy ground, and most of +the birds are gone; when the eddies are full of +dead leaves floating away from the wood where +all their sheltered lives have been spent; when the +sparkle and the gaiety and the light-heartedness +are gone, and the water looks indigo and dun, with +patches of quicksilver floating on it; when the +great webs of the spiders that haunt the banks +hang like filmy curtains of lace heavy with the +moisture of the air, and the sun sinks wanly +behind a bank of cloud—even then the river may +be loved. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_16' name='Page_16'>[16]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +Assuredly, those who go on the river for the day +only, and know it but under one aspect—that of +lazy heat—lose much. In the evening time, +as one steps from the long French window +into the scented dusk, soft white moths flap +suddenly across the strip of light, and one's +feet fall silently on the velvet turf, cool with +the freshness that ever is on a river margin. +Down by the edge the black water hurries swiftly +past with a continuous soothing gurgle. A sleepy +bird moves in a startled way in a bush, and all the +small things that awake in the night are stirring. +One can reach down and touch the onyx water +slipping between one's fingers like dream jewels; +and far overhead in the rent and torn caverns of +the clouds, the stars, bigger and brighter than ever +they look in London, sail swiftly and silently from +shelter to shelter. The plaintive cry of an owl +sounds softly from the meadow across the water, +and there is an indescribable sense of motion +and poetry, and a thrill of expectation that +would be wholly lacking in a landscape ever so +beautiful, without the river. +</p> + +<p> +Then there are the grey days, when sudden +sheens of silver drop upon the ruffled water as it +eddies round a corner, and in a moment the surface +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_17' name='Page_17'>[17]</a></span> +is peopled with dancing fairies, spangled and +brilliant, flitting in and out in bewildering movement. +Or the same cold, silver light catches the +side of a ploughed field, a moment before brown, +but now shot with green as all the long delicate +blades are revealed. These, and a thousand other +delights, cannot be known to the visitor of a day +only. Under all its aspects, in all its vagaries, +the river may be loved; and in the swift gliding +motion there is an irresistible fascination. It +gives meaning to idleness, and fills up vacancy. +By the banks of the river one never can be dull. +</p> + +<p> +The river is one of the greatest of our national +possessions. Other rivers there are in England +where one may boat on a small part, where here +and there are beauty spots; but the Thames alone +gives miles of bewildering choice, and can take +hundreds and hundreds at once upon its flood. +Now embanked and weired and locked, its waters +are ideal for boating, and its fishing, with little +exception, is free to all. +</p> + +<p> +Shooting on the banks of the Thames is forbidden, +and the birds have quickly learned to know +their sanctuary. Lie still for a while in the lee of +an osier-covered ait, or beneath the shelter of an +overhanging willow, and that cheeky little reed-bunting +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_18' name='Page_18'>[18]</a></span> +will hop about so near, that, were you +endowed by nature with the quickness of movement +granted to a cat, you could seize it in +one hand. White-throats, robins, thrushes, blackbirds, +all haunt the stream, and reed warblers +and sedge warblers have their haunts by the +banks. The kingfisher is rapidly increasing, and +makes his home quite close to the locks and weirs; +the russet brown of his breast, as he sits motionless +on a twig waiting his time for a dart, may now +be seen by a noiseless and sharp-eyed watcher. +The soft coo of the wood pigeons sounds from +tall trees, and the cawing of the rooks, softened by +distance into a melodious conversation, is wafted +from many a rookery. The chatter of an impudent +magpie may worry you, or the hoarse squawk +of a jay break your rest, but they are only the +discords that the great musician, Nature, knows +how to introduce into her river symphony. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i053" id="i053"></a> +<img src="images/i-053.jpg" width="442" height="550" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">STREATLEY INN +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Hotels on the river have, in the last few years, +awakened to the cry of the middle classes for air +and light, and yet more air. Some of the hotels +are pretty with verandahs and creeper covered +walls, but others are old-fashioned—with low +rooms. Yet every proprietor who can by hook or +crook manage it, now runs a lawn of exquisite +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_19' name='Page_19'>[19]</a></span> +turf down to the water's edge, decorates it with +flowers far more vivid than can be seen elsewhere, +and knocks up a bungalow-like building, terribly +desolate in the winter when the green mould +creeps insidiously over the wooden posts, and +the sail-cloth rots in the damp; but airy and +commodious in the summer, when relays of fifty +people or more may be seated at a time, and yet +there is no satiating smell of cooked food. The +boat owners have also seen fit to accommodate +their convenience to the demand, and at any large +builder's landing-stage, boats may now be hired +to be left almost anywhere on the river, to be +fetched back by the owner. +</p> + +<p> +Pessimists say that the river is losing its charm, +that the advent of motor cars, stirring in people a +hitherto dormant love of speed, makes the slow +progress of punting a weariness instead of a relaxation. +But this is not greatly to be feared. The +charm of a motor is one thing, the charm of +the river another; and we cannot spare either. +Crowds may slightly diminish, but this is no loss, +rather a gain to the real river lover. +</p> + +<p> +Thames gardens are peculiar. By the nature of +the case they must be far more public than +ordinary gardens, for the owner's reason for +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_20' name='Page_20'>[20]</a></span> +buying the house was that he wanted to sit on his +own green turf and see the river flow endlessly +past. Therefore, though he may hedge around +the three land sides with high walls and impenetrable +thorns, he leaves the fourth side open +so that all the world may look. No one has +yet been clever enough to invent a screen that +shall be transparent on one side and opaque on +the other, and until they do, the owners of these +beautiful river lawns must sit in the full light +that beats upon the river banks, and allow every +passing stranger who has raked up a shilling to +hire a boat, to enjoy the beauties of a garden he +has not paid for. Thames lawns are celebrated, +and rightly so. Not even the turf of college quads, +grown for hundreds of years, can beat their turf. +Thick, smooth, closely woven they are, and above +all, of a pure rich green that is a delight to see, +and, by way of enhancing this marvellous green, +the colour which is most often to be seen with +it is its complementary colour, red. Whether +the effect is obtained merely by contrast I do +not know, but certainly it seems as if nowhere +else could be found geraniums of so rich a vermilion, +roses of so glorious a crimson. In many of these +river gardens, too, especially where a little stream +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_21' name='Page_21'>[21]</a></span> +trickles down, a light trellis arch is thrown up +and covered with Rambler roses, old rose in colour, +and only second to the vermilion as a complement +to the green lawn. +</p> + +<p> +Two of these gloriously green lawns I have +particularly in mind, one at Shepperton, and +one near Thames Ditton, but where they are +to be seen so frequently it is invidious to particularise. +</p> + +<p> +These are the private gardens of a grand sort, +and no whit less beautiful, though without the +same expanse of lawn, are the gardens of the +lock-keepers, in which the owners take a particular +pride. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Soon will the musk carnations break and swell, +</p> +<p> +Soon shall we have gold-dusted snapdragon, +</p> +<p> +Sweet-william with his homely cottage smell, +</p> +<p> +And stocks in fragrant blow; +</p> +<p> +Roses, that down the alleys shine afar, +</p> +<p> +And open, jasmine-muffled lattices. +</p> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p class="rjust"> +—<i>M. Arnold.</i> +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +But in taking count of Thames's decorations +we are not confined to gardens. Among the +flowers growing wild on the river banks we +have no lack of choice. It is a pretty conceit +of Drayton's, to make his bridal pair, Thame +and Isis, travel to meet one another along paths +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_22' name='Page_22'>[22]</a></span> +flower-decked by willing nymphs. Old Thame, +as the man, was to have only wild flowers, not +those "to gardens that belong": +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +The primrose placing first because that in the spring +</p> +<p> +It is the first appears, then only flourishing, +</p> +<p> +The azured harebell next, with them they neatly mix'd, +</p> +<p> +T'allay whose luscious smell, they woodbind plac'd betwixt. +</p> +<p> +Amongst those things of scent, there prick they in the lily; +</p> +<p> +And near to that again her sister daffodilly. +</p> +<p> +To sort these flowers of show with th' other that were sweet +</p> +<p> +The cowslip then they couch, and th' oxlip, for her meet, +</p> +<p> +The columbine amongst they sparingly do set, +</p> +<p> +The yellow king-cup wrought in many a curious fret, +</p> +<p> +And now and then among, of eglantine a spray, +</p> +<p> +By which again a course of lady smocks they lay +</p> +<p> +The crow flower, and thereby the clover-flower they stick. +</p> +<p> +The daisie over all those sundry sweets so thick; +</p> + +<hr /> <!-- +<tb> + --> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p> +The crimson darnel flowers, the blue-bottle and gold +</p> +<p> +Which, though esteemed but weeds, yet for their dainty hues +</p> +<p> +And for their scent not ill, they for this purpose choose. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +The "luscious smell" cannot refer to the harebell, +which has a very faint perfume; besides, +it is difficult to think of the harebell in this +connection, for it is a full summer flower, while +all the rest belong to spring: Drayton must, +therefore, mean the wild hyacinth, which is still +often called the bluebell by people in England, +though in Scotland this name is correctly reserved +for the harebell. The "luscious smell" exactly +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_23' name='Page_23'>[23]</a></span> +describes the rich, rather cloying scent of the +hyacinth. There has been some discussion as +to what is meant by the eglantine, which the +old poets are so fond of mentioning. In Milton it +means the honeysuckle, but in the others probably +the sweetbriar; while woodbine is either the twining +clematis, the "traveller's joy"—rather a misnomer, +by-the-way, as it is an insignificant and disappointing +flower—or the honeysuckle. +</p> + +<p> +Isis was gay with garden flowers: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p class="i6"> + ... The brave carnation then, +</p> +<p> +With th' other of his kind, the speckled and the pale, +</p> +<p> +Then th' odoriferous pink, that sends forth such a gale +</p> +<p> +Of sweetness, yet in scents as various as in sorts. +</p> +<p> +The purple violet then, the pansy there supports +</p> +<p> +The marygold above t' adorn the arched bar; +</p> +<p> +The double daisie, thrift, the button bachelor, +</p> +<p> +Sweet-william, sops-in-wine, the campion, and to these +</p> +<p> +Some lavender they put with rosemary and bays. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +To make a catalogue of the flowers which may +be found on the Thames banks at the present +day would be out of place here, yet there are +one or two plants so frequently seen that they +may be mentioned. Among these are the purple +loose-strife, with its tapering, richly coloured +spikes, standing sometimes as high as four feet, +and occasionally mistaken for a foxglove; the +pink-flowered willow-herb; the wild mustard or +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_24' name='Page_24'>[24]</a></span> +cherlock, with its sulphur yellow blossoms, and +creeping-jenny. The bog-bean, or buck-bean, with +white lace-like flowers may be seen occasionally +in stagnant swamps. The water-violet, which, +however, is not in the least like a violet, is also +to be found in the tributary ditches, as well as the +tall yellow iris; the flowering rush and the bur-reeds +often form details in a river picture. In the +lock gardens herbaceous borders, full of phlox, +sweet-william, stocks, valerian, big white lilies, +and, later, red hot pokers, sunflowers, and hollyhocks, +are ordinary sights. In the meadows near +Oxford fritillaries, otherwise called snakes'-heads, +are seen abundantly in spring, but these and other +flowers shall be mentioned more particularly in +connection with the places where they grow. +</p> + +<p> +It remains but to end with the aspiration of +Denham: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +O could I flow like thee, and make thy stream +</p> +<p> +My great example as it is my theme! +</p> +<p> +Though deep, yet clear; though gentle, yet not dull; +</p> +<p> +Strong, without rage; without o'erflowing full. +</p> +</div></div></div> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_25' name='Page_25'>[25]</a></span> +</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER II<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +THE OXFORD MEADOWS +</span></h2> + +<div class="figleft"><a name="i061" id="i061"></a> +<img src="images/i-061.jpg" width="274" height="340" alt="" /> +</div> +<p> +This account of +the river may well +begin at Folly +Bridge, seeing it +is folly in any case +to attempt to cut +off a section of a +river, and, as before +explained, +our course from +Oxford to London +is peculiarly arbitrary, +for the +Thames proper +does not begin till below Dorchester, and at +Oxford the river is the Isis. Having thus +disarmed criticism, without further explanation +or apology, we stand upon Folly Bridge, which +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_26' name='Page_26'>[26]</a></span> +is a little way above the end of the course for +both Torpids and Eights. +</p> + +<p> +To the left are the college barges, resplendent +in many colours, with their slender flagstaffs +rising against a background of the shady trees +that border Christchurch meadows. The reach +of water beside them is alive with boats, and the +oars rise and dip with the regularity of the legs +of a monster centipede. The barges should be +seen in Eights week, when they are in their +glory, occupied by the mothers, sisters, and aunts +of the undergraduates, dressed in costumes that +in mass look like brilliant flower-beds. +</p> + +<p> +To see the bridge properly, however, it is +necessary to go down to the tow-path and look +back at it, when its quaint, foreign appearance +can be better estimated. It stands across an +island on which is the renowned Salter's boat-house, +and its solidity and the tall houses near it, +which throw black shadows in the yellow sunlight, +make it look not unlike a corner in Venice. +</p> + +<p> +Following the river down, we see on the Oxford +side the narrow mouth of the meandering Cherwell +under a white arched bridge. The most delightful +place for "lazing" in a boat is the Cherwell, +shady and not too wide; deliciously cool in the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_27' name='Page_27'>[27]</a></span> +height of the summer, so rich is the foliage of +the over-arching trees. Lower down is the +New Cut, destined to relieve the Cherwell of +its superfluous water in flood time and so prevent +the flooding of the Christchurch meadows. +Opposite the mouth of the New Cut is the +University Boat-house, and further down, where +a branch of the river runs off to the right, are +the bathing places. This branch is crossed by +a bridge, and it makes the next strip of land an +island. The place is known as the Long Bridges. +The river narrows at the point, and the narrowed part +is called The Gut; just below a tributary from the +Cherwell, known as the Freshman's river, dribbles +into the Thames. It is at The Gut that the most +exciting scenes in the races generally happen. As +everyone knows, Torpids are in the fourth and +fifth weeks after the beginning of the Lent term, +and as they are not of so much importance as the +Eights, and as the weather does not lend itself to +open-air festivities, they are generally watched only +by a shivering handful of spectators who have a +more or less personal interest in them. The Eights, +which take place in the middle of the summer term, +are the event of the year to Oxford, and intensely +exciting they may be. The lowest boat starts +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_28' name='Page_28'>[28]</a></span> +from the lasher above Iffley, and the course ends +at Salter's Barge. But the crux of the whole +matter often lies in The Gut, and much depends on +the ability of the cox to steer a clean course, as to +whether his boat is bumped or bumps. As the +boats in cutting the curve below this crucial point +come diagonally at it, disaster here often overtakes +a crew which has before been doing well. The +aforesaid narrow channel from the Cherwell is +navigable only in a canoe and by good luck; but +the tale is told that one cox, in his first year, being +excited beyond reason, mistook it for the main +channel, and, steering right ahead, landed his crew +high and dry on the shoals. Hence the name, the +Freshman's river.<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_29' name='Page_29'></a></span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i067" id="i067"></a> +<img src="images/i-067.jpg" width="550" height="435" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">IFFLEY +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Here are two pictures, taken from life, which +express the difference between the two occasions: +</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p> +The Eights: Brilliant blue sky above, glinting blue +water beneath. Down across Christchurch meadow troops +a butterfly crowd, flaunting brilliant parasols and chattering +gaily to the "flannelled fools" who form the escort. Despite +the laughter it is a solemn occasion, for the college boat +that is head of the river may be going to be bumped this +afternoon, and, if so, the bump will surely take place in +front of the barges. The only question is, before which +barge will it happen? When the exciting moment draws +near, chatter ceases, a tense stillness holds the crowd in +thrall; the relentless pursuers creep on steadily, narrowing +the gap between themselves and the first boat, and finally +bump it exactly opposite its own barge! A moment's pause. +The completeness of the triumph is too impressive to be +grasped at once; then—pandemonium! Pistol-shots, rattles, +hoots, yells, shrieks of joy, wildly waving parasols, and groans. +</p> + +<p class="p2"> +The Torpids: A raw cold February day; a leaden sky +heavy with snow; dimly seen figures scudding over the +frozen meadows of Iffley; the river itself is almost frost-bound, +and the men waiting in the boats for the starting +gun look blue and pinched. They must find these last ten +seconds hard to endure. Nine, eight, seven, six—ugh! +will it never go? At last! And, as the signal sounds, the +oars strike the water with a splash, and the boats shoot off +and begin the long tussle against a head wind and that +strong stream which always makes the Torpids a harder +matter than the Eights rowed in summer water. It is too +late to follow them, so heigh-ho for the King's Arms +Hotel at Sandford, and a cup of the good hot tea that the +landlady knows so well how to make! +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The channel running past the bathing places is +equally unsuited for navigation, and is moreover +guarded by two mills, but it may be negotiated +with the aforesaid element of good luck. Hinksey +Stream flows into this backwater, and there are +several places, after shoals have been avoided or +surmounted, where it is extremely pleasant to +while away an idle hour. By means of the Long +Bridges and the lock at Iffley it is possible to +get across the river from side to side diagonally. +Passing on down stream we soon come to Iffley. +In the meantime we can see many of the pinnacles +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_30' name='Page_30'>[30]</a></span> +and spires and domes for which Oxford is famous, +and marvellous is the way in which they appear to +swing round as we change our position. The part +of new Oxford which lines the Iffley road behind +the meadows is not attractive, but when we come +in sight of Iffley itself we may well exclaim that +it would be hard to find a sweeter spot. There are +stone walls, thatched cottages and farmyards, hay +and orchards, elms, alders, and silver-stemmed +birches; in consequence a quiet, rural atmosphere +broods over all. The cows feed down to the edge of +the river, and swallows dart about overhead, while +perhaps a man paddling a canoe shoots up and away +again, his white flannels and the strength and grace +of his movement irresistibly recalling a swan. The +mill, half stone, half wooden cased, is very ancient; +the massive foundations have become like rock +from their long immersion in the running water. +There is a great quiet pool behind the lock island, +and here and there a glimpse may be caught of the +square tower of the famous church, which is not +far off, but is well hidden by trees. +</p> + +<p> +Iffley Church takes rank with Stewkley as the +most beautiful example of a Norman church +remaining to us out of London. It is, like so +many Norman churches, very small and very solid. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_31' name='Page_31'>[31]</a></span> +And it must yield to Stewkley in the fact that its +architecture is not pure. Yet its massive central +tower and its fine windows place it very high +indeed. Its date is not certainly known, but is +supposed to be between 1160 and 1170. "The +interior seems at first sight curious. There are, +in fact, two chancels, one behind the other. The +further one is early English work, and is much +lighter in style than the rest of the building, and +the east end is disappointing. This may have been +added to lengthen the church. In the bay next +to it, where the choir now sit, there are fourteenth +century windows inserted under Norman arches, +showing that the walls were of the earlier date. +These windows were added by John de la Pole, +Duke of Suffolk, in the latter half of the sixteenth +century. There is a groined roof, and the piers are +beautifully decorated. The arches supporting the +tower are richly moulded, almost incongruously so +in regard to the massive type of the masonry, +which points to early Norman. The Perpendicular +windows inserted in the north and south walls are +good. It is only at the extreme west end that the +Norman windows remain untouched. The font +is of black marble, and is very curious. The triple +west-end window, a splendid specimen, is best seen +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_32' name='Page_32'>[32]</a></span> +from the churchyard. Its moulding is very rich, +and this alone would be sufficient to make Iffley +rank high among ancient churches. Below it is +a circular window inserted about 1858 on the +supposed plan of a former one of which traces were +found. The impossibility of approaching the style +of the old work in modern times was never more +strikingly shown. Below is a fine doorway with +beak-head and billet moulding, worthy to be +classed with the triple window. A very ancient +yew stands on the south side of the church, and +near it is the slender shaft of an old cross. The +rectory house, dating from Tudor times, is a fine +addition to the picturesque group."—<i>Guide to the +Thames.</i> +</p> + +<p> +Between Iffley and Sandford the famous Oxford +meadows are seen at their best. In the summer +they are gemmed with countless flowers, so that +they rival the celebrated Swiss pastures. Prominent +among these is the fritillary: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +I know what white, what purple fritillaries +</p> +<p> +The grassy harvest of the river-fields, +</p> +<p> +Above by Ensham, down by Sandford yields, +</p> +<p> +And what sedged brooks are Thames's tributaries. +</p> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p class="rjust"> +—<i>M. Arnold.</i> +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +Mr. G. Claridge Druce, the well-known botanist, +who has made a special study of the Thames +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_33' name='Page_33'>[33]</a></span> +Valley and Oxfordshire, says:—"The Thames +from Oxford to Sandford flows through meadows +rich with fritillaries, its banks are bordered with +the sweet-scented Acorus, and its waters are +inhabited by Potamogeton prœlongus, flabellatus, +and compressus, Zannichellia macrostemon, +Œnanthe fluviatilis, &c., and near Sandford appears, +for the first time in the river's course, the lovely +Leucojum æstivum." This is the flower better +known as the summer snowflake, which we shall +meet again. The above are only a tithe of the +flowers which Mr. Druce mentions. Among others +which may be recognised are the yellow iris, +the cuckoo flower, the water villarsia, the purple +orchis, and the willow weed. In the spring the +marsh mallow is the first to appear with a +vivid glory as of sunshine. The banks are +flat and low, and, except for the flowers, +uninteresting; nevertheless this is a useful part of +the river, especially for sailing. Some college fours +are rowed here. Passing under the railway line +we see the pink-washed walls of the Swan Hotel, +which stands on Kennington Island, connected with +the mainland by a bridge; and then we come to +Sandford itself, with charms almost as great as, +though entirely different from, those of Iffley. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_34' name='Page_34'>[34]</a></span> +The approach is disappointing. The tall mill +chimney and the new brick houses are bare and +ugly. The mill is a paper mill, and supplies +the Clarendon Press. It stands close to the +old-fashioned and pretty hotel, so completely +ivy-covered that even one of the tall chimneys +is quite overgrown. When close to the lock +the mill is not noticeable and has the advantage +of affording some shelter. As at Iffley, one can +get right across from bank to bank by means of +bridges, a most charming method that might well +be adopted in other parts of the river. Indeed, +near Oxford one great delight is the freedom from +interference. Everyone is allowed full liberty; +you may ride your bicycle along the tow-path, +take it across locks, or even walk it by the side of +the meadows, without any rebuke. Having put up +a notice that they are not responsible for the condition +of the tow-path and that people use it at +their own risk, the Conservancy leave the matter +alone. The islands at Sandford are rather complicated, +and there are a couple of weirs, beneath +which the water frills out over mossy stones into +deep, shady pools. The fishing here is as good as +any on the river. The Radley College boat-house +and bathing place are near the lower pool, the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_35' name='Page_35'>[35]</a></span> +college itself being rather more than a mile away. +In spring these pools, with their broken banks of +brown earth and their masses of scented white +hawthorn, are most beautiful. The shy white +violets hide in the grass near the weirs, and are +found by only a few who know where to seek +them. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i077" id="i077"></a> +<img src="images/i-077.jpg" width="550" height="442" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">RADLEY COLLEGE BOAT-HOUSE +</p> +</div> + +<p> +In the Oxford zone we must include the woods +at Nuneham Courtney, which, by the courtesy of +the owner (Aubrey Harcourt), are open to undergraduates +all Commemoration week and twice a +week in the summer term; while the general +public, after writing in advance, are allowed to +picnic at the lock cottages two days a week from +May to September. The Nuneham woods are on +a ridge of greensand, and though they are not so +high or at such a striking angle as those of +Clieveden, they certainly have quite as great a +charm. Anyone is allowed to walk through the +park if it be approached from the road, but +bicycles are not permitted. The lock cottages, +which are a popular resort in the summer, stand +beside a pretty wooden bridge which connects the +islands with the mainland. Masses of wild roses +and flowering clematis add their delicate touch +to the beauty of the overhanging trees. Close +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_36' name='Page_36'>[36]</a></span> +by the water is the Carfax monument, a conduit +or fountain erected by Otho Nicholson, who set it +up at the place still called Carfax in Oxford, +whence it was removed to its present position in +1787. The woods contain nothing very striking +in the way of trees, though all the commoner +sorts, the beeches, oaks, horse-chestnuts, and so +on, are well represented. There are about 400 acres +of wood, which surround the park, where the oaks +show well, standing apart from each other. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_37' name='Page_37'>[37]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i081" id="i081"></a> +<img src="images/i-081.jpg" width="550" height="428" alt="" /> + +</div> +<h2> +CHAPTER III<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +THE OLD TOWN OF ABINGDON +</span></h2> + +<p> +As a headquarters for boating, for those who want +to dawdle and explore odd corners and have no +desire to rush through as many locks as possible +in a day, Abingdon makes a good centre. It +is within easy reach of the part lying below the +woods at Nuneham, and in the other direction is +the Sutton Courtney backwater, which, Wargrave +notwithstanding, is not to be beaten on the Thames. +Further down again is Clifton Hampden, which +attracts many people, and the river at Abingdon +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_38' name='Page_38'>[38]</a></span> +itself is by no means to be despised. The bridge, +called Burford Bridge, is a real delight. It is old +and irregular, with straggling arches, some rounded, +some pointed; and all, even the highest, comparatively +low down over the water, framing cool, dark +shadows within the embrace of the mighty piers. +The bridge cannot be seen in the glance of an eye. +It is very long, and rests partly on an island. +Standing on this, the Nag's Head Inn projects +from one side of the bridge, and from it stretches +out a small garden with several orchard trees. +The red tiles and creamy tint of the hotel walls +show well in contrast with the grey stone of the +bridge, and when the hotel is seen from the river +above the bridge, with the tall spire of St. Helen's +Church rising behind it, it is worth noticing. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i085" id="i085"></a> +<img src="images/i-085.jpg" width="440" height="550" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">ABINGDON +</p> +</div> + +<p> +There are bits of old wall lining the bank on the +town side, and ivy grows freely over them. Many +of the houses stand back from the water; a part +of the ruined abbey and the long range of the +abbot's residence can be seen between masses of +blossom. The great exterior chimney of the abbey +buildings should particularly be noticed. The +blossom at Abingdon is a great feature, and one +not to be found everywhere. Horse-chestnuts and +holm oaks dip their boughs in the water, and from +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_39' name='Page_39'>[39]</a></span> +the branches arises a perfect chorus of birds. Abingdon +has its chimneys, of course, as well as hideous +buildings suited to modern requirements of business, +but in the general view these things are lost sight of. +</p> + +<p> +Burford is a corruption of Borough-ford, and +before the building of the bridge in the fifteenth +century, the ferry at Culham was the main means +of communication with the other side of the river. +</p> + +<p> +The range of Nuneham, below which runs the +backwater called the Old River, can be seen to the +south-east. If this ever was the main stream it +must have been very long ago, for the memory of +it is not recorded in any document now extant. +The Old River is crossed by another bridge, and +the two are linked by a straight road, made by +Geoffrey Barbour at the same time as the building +of the bridges. There is a picture of Barbour +in the almshouses, and this shows the bridge being +built in the background; while an illuminated copy +of verses tells us: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +King Herry the Fyft, in his fourthe yere, +</p> +<p> +He hath i-founde for his folke a brige in Berkschire, +</p> +<p> +For cartis with cariage may go and come clere, +</p> +<p> +That many wynters afore were mareed in the myre. +</p> +<p> +Culham hithe [<i>wharf or landing</i>] hath caused many a curse, +</p> +<p> +I-blessed be our helpers we have a better waye, +</p> +<p> +Without any peny for cart and for horse. +</p> +</div></div></div> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_40' name='Page_40'>[40]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +Below Burford Bridge, the great bur-reeds +grow near the islands. There is one delightful old +house, formerly a malt house, with all sorts of odd +angles and corners. It encloses a small terraced +court, from which steps lead down to the water. +It stands on the site of St. Helen's nunnery, +founded about 690. Further on are some of the +newer almshouses—a blot on the scene; and then +a glimpse may be had of the wooden cloister of +the old almshouses, which, in their way, are as +pretty as those at Bray. +</p> + +<p> +Christ's Hospital, as the almshouses are called, +was founded in the reign of Edward VI. out of +lands belonging to a dissolved Guild of the Holy +Cross. The central hall dates, however, from 1400. +It has a stone mullioned window and panelled +walls; in the ceiling is a dome or cupola. Once a +week eighty loaves of bread are here distributed +among the poor people of the town, and when the +loaves, with their crisp, flaky, yellow crust, stand +in piles on the polished oak table, and the poor old +people gather for their share, there is an old-world +touch in the picture such as one does not often see +nowadays. The cloister or arcade of dark wood +outside is decorated with texts and proverbs on its +inner wall. The newer almshouses, built in 1797, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_41' name='Page_41'>[41]</a></span> +lack all the homeliness and interest of the older +ones. The church of St. Helen's, which has a very +tall spire, is close to the almshouses and the river, +and is well worthy of its position. It has been +much restored, but is mainly of sixteenth century +work. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i091" id="i091"></a> +<img src="images/i-091.jpg" width="550" height="440" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">THE MILL AT ABINGDON +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Of course there was an abbey at Abingdon, though +whether the name of the town arose from that fact +or from a proper name Aben or Æbba is doubtful. +The earliest name of the town was the unpronounceable +one of Seovechesham, and it was then a +royal residence. The abbey was founded by Cissa +about 675. It was destroyed by the Danes and +reconstructed long before most places on the river +had begun to have any history at all. The abbey +rose to great importance and wealth. It held +manors innumerable, and its abbot was a person +to reckon with. Even at the date of Domesday +Book the abbey held no less than thirty manors. +But its power did not save it, and it suffered the +common fate at the Dissolution. A gateway of +about the fourteenth century and some ruins, +which show where the dwellings of the monks +stood, are all that remain, beside the guest-chamber—a +large, barn-like building—and the almoner's residence. +The latter has a magnificent fireplace and +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_42' name='Page_42'>[42]</a></span> +chimney. The ceiling of the room below is groined, +and looks like that of a crypt, but this is said to +have been the kitchen. The chief feature of +interest is the huge chimney, which is like a room, +and has little windows on each side; its size is best +appreciated from the exterior view. The church +has quite disappeared, for the little ancient church +near the gateway was not the abbey church, but is +supposed to have been at first a chapel of ease. +In this there is some Norman work, including the +west doorway, and it is probably of quite as +ancient lineage as anything now remaining of the +abbey. +</p> + +<p> +Henry I. was sent by his father, as a lad of +twelve, to be educated at Abingdon Abbey, and the +learning by which he gained the name of Beauclerc +shows that there must have been some able men +here. The town hall in the market place at +Abingdon is really a fine bit of work. It has been +attributed to Inigo Jones, and stands over an open +arcade, according to the style of town halls of the +seventeenth century. The lock is a good way above +Abingdon, and from it the millstream, as usual +a pleasant backwater, flows right back to the town, +enclosing a large island. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i097" id="i097"></a> +<img src="images/i-097.jpg" width="550" height="439" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">SUTTON COURTNEY BACKWATER +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The lock at Culham is one of the least interesting +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_43' name='Page_43'>[43]</a></span> +on the river, and of the hundreds who pass +through it only a few know that they are close to +the very prettiest backwater on the Thames, +namely Sutton Pool. There is one backwater at +Sutton Courtney which can be reached from above +Culham Lock. This leads to the mill, now disused, +and runs along the top of the numerous weirs that +pour into Sutton Pool itself. It is pretty also, and +it is pleasant to see the meadows where the cows +stand knee-deep in flowering plants, and the little +square tower of the church peeping through the +trees. This backwater is the best for landing to +go to the village. Along the top of the weirs runs +a path—a public right-of-way—which leads across +the fields to Culham Lock, and anyone may land +here and look down upon the pool; but to get +right into it the lock must be passed, and some +way further, after going under the bridge, we can +turn the corner of a large island and retrace our +way upstream until we come into the great pool, +with its miniature bays and tumbling water. The +weirs are high, and the streams come down with +force, making a restless heave and swell when the +river is full. The little tongues of land that divide +one bay from another are shaded by willows, and +the lush green grass grows here and there around +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_44' name='Page_44'>[44]</a></span> +tiny beaches of white sand. In spring, masses of +hawthorn, "all frosted" with flowers, bend down +from above, and the wild hyacinths break up +between the blades of grass. Tall reeds form tiny +islets, and perhaps a little moorhen flaps out. It is +in secluded places like this that the dainty nest +of the reed-warbler may be seen, swinging so +lightly upon its supports that it is extraordinary +to think that so large a bird as the cuckoo should +dare to deposit its egg there. Yet reed-warblers +and sedge-warblers are both among the cuckoo's +victims. Unfortunately, in this little paradise landing +is everywhere strictly forbidden, but no one can +forbid enjoyment of the beauties which appeal to +sight. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i103" id="i103"></a> +<img src="images/i-103.jpg" width="447" height="550" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">CLIFTON HAMPDEN FROM THE BRIDGE +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The village of Sutton Courtney is certainly +worth visiting. The village green, with its tall +chestnuts, limes, and elms, is the very picture of +what a green should be. The church is particularly +interesting, for it is that rarity an unrestored building, +with the old red-tiled floor and the rudeness +of the original—so often smoothed away behind +stencilling and paint—still left untouched. There +is a shelf of chained books, a fine carved screen, +and an altar-tomb of some interest. The manor +house, which is not far off, is in a medley of styles, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_45' name='Page_45'>[45]</a></span> +ranging from Norman to Jacobean. Malefactors +are said to have been hanged from the stout oak +beam which is still in good preservation. One +wing is of perfect Jacobean work, with an overhanging +storey decorated with carved pendants. A +fine old building, half-way up the village, is called +the Hall of Justice; this, however, may have a +meaning less obvious than supposed at first sight, +as the family of Justice held the manor for some +generations. +</p> + +<p> +In it there is a fine old Norman doorway. +The owner has furnished the interior with tapestry +hangings, etc., somewhat in accordance with what +it may have looked like originally when in use. +It certainly gives one an idea of the old Saxon +or Norman style of dwelling before even the upper +chamber or <i>solar</i> came into fashion. +</p> + +<p> +The river at Clifton Hampden is not a couple +of miles from the river at Nuneham Courtney, +so great is the loop by Abingdon. It may be noted +that the name Courtney, though spelt differently, +is derived from the ownership of the Courtenays, +Earls of Exeter, in both the instances above. +Clifton Hampden is a great favourite with artists, +for the church, with its little, pointed spire, stands +on a cliff which has in parts broken away, showing +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_46' name='Page_46'>[46]</a></span> +the rich yellow ochre of the soil. This makes +up well in a "composition." The river sweeps +round beneath it in a sort of little bay, and when +white ducks dabble in the water and blue-pinafored +children play beneath the yellow-ochre cliff, there +is much to be said for it. The houses, too, are +not without points. They are mostly thatched, +and have their share of plants and creepers. The +bridge is of red brick, and, with a little toning by +weather, will make a capital accessory. But to +my mind Clifton Hampden lacks that indefinable +quality of charm found in such abundance +elsewhere. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_47' name='Page_47'>[47]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i109" id="i109"></a> +<img src="images/i-109.jpg" width="550" height="438" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">CLIFTON HAMPDEN +</p> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i111" id="i111"></a> +<img src="images/i-111.jpg" width="550" height="386" alt="" /> +</div> + +<h2> +CHAPTER IV<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +SINODUN HILL AND DORCHESTER +</span></h2> + +<p> +The island near Day's Lock, lying beneath the +Wittenham Woods and Sinodun Hill, is particularly +well kept and neat, and, in summer, bright +with flowers. Standing on the end of the lock-keeper's +island you can look straight up the weir, +below which the river drifts away on each side +of the island. +</p> + +<p> +On the right bank, raised slightly above the +river, is the church of Little Wittenham, with +a long, narrow bastion turret adhering to its tower. +Inside there is a handsome monument, one of +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_48' name='Page_48'>[48]</a></span> +those legacies from the ages that prove long +descent. A warm belt of Scotch firs grows near. +</p> + +<p> +Wittenham Woods lie under the shelter of the +hill and close to the life-giving water. The trees +grow well and form a home for countless birds of +all kinds. "The hobby breeds there yearly. The +wild pheasant, crow, sparrowhawk, kestrel, magpie, +jay, ring-dove, brown owl, water-hen (on the river-bounded +side); in summer the cuckoo and turtle-dove +are all found there, and, with the exception +of the pigeons and kestrels, which seek their food +at a distance during the day, they seldom leave the +shelter of its trees."—<i>C. J. Cornish.</i> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i115" id="i115"></a> +<img src="images/i-115.jpg" width="550" height="442" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">COTTAGES, DORCHESTER +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Sinodun Hill, and its companion, Harp Hill, +which is as like it as one twin to another, +are sometimes called Wittenham Clumps. They +are remarkable and conspicuous objects, rising +abruptly and evenly from a very flat district, and +they can be seen from many miles around, and, +what is more curious, can be recognised. The +smooth, rounded cone is so symmetrical that, +whichever way you look at it, it seems the same, +not changing its shape in the bewildering way of +most hills; and the clump of trees placed so +exactly on its crown is an unfailing river-mark. +Sinodun is about 250 feet in height, and on it is +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_49' name='Page_49'>[49]</a></span> +a British earthwork, a triple line of entrenchment, +with vallum and foss all round. The circumference +of this on the outside is about a mile. +Harp Hill has on it a tumulus called Brightwell +Barrow. Then down below, close to Dorchester, +is a double line of earthworks, much mutilated, +but quite noticeable. No one knows the origin +of these defences, which date far back into +unhistorical days. Those on Sinodun are called +British, while the others are supposed to be Roman. +Roman camps were nearly always square, while +British followed the windings of the hill. +</p> + +<p> +Dorchester, with its cornfields and trees, its +vegetable gardens, and its old houses bowed this +way and that, is a very unsophisticated little place. +The deep quiet of its village street, where the +cottages glow all hues in the sunlight, from deep +red ochre to egg-colour, brooded over by the long-backed +abbey church, is a rest-cure in itself. The +great yew trees, the pretty lych-gate, the old +wooden porch, are all just what one would expect +to find. Dorchester is not on the Thames, yet +belongs to it certainly, for the Thame, which +combines with the Isis to form the Thames, flows +past it. As its name proclaims, Dorchester was +once a Roman camp. Numerous Roman coins +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_50' name='Page_50'>[50]</a></span> +have been found in the neighbourhood, and a +Roman altar. It was also the seat of one of the +first and largest bishoprics in England. +</p> + +<p> +In 634 a monk of the order of St. Benedict, named +Birinus, crossed to Britain to follow in the steps of +St. Augustine and work as a missionary among +the men of Wessex. He landed safely, and came +to this part of the country, then in Wessex, which +at that time stretched north of the Thames, though +afterwards, when Mercia's power became great +under King Offa, Dorchester fell within that +kingdom. Birinus preached with so much effect +that the King conferred upon him the office of +bishop and gave him Dorchester for his residence. +He died in 650 and was buried in his own church, +though it is said his body was afterwards moved +to Winchester. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i121" id="i121"></a> +<img src="images/i-121.jpg" width="550" height="447" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">WHITE HART HOTEL, DORCHESTER +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The early bishopric was vast. It included what +in our own day are the Sees of Bath and Wells, +Exeter, Hereford, Lichfield, Lincoln, Salisbury, +Worcester, and Winchester. There must have +been a church in some degree adequate to the +importance of such a charge, but it was probably +of wood; in any case, nothing remains of it, +though certain indications seem to show that it +stood on the same site as the present one. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_51' name='Page_51'>[51]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +Dorchester was an important city, but its glory +did not long remain, and the bishopric was ultimately +split up into many Sees. In 1085 the seat +of the See of Mercia was transferred to Lincoln. +The abbey was founded here in 1140 for Augustinian +monks, and it is the monks' church which +still in great part exists. The long nave, with its +red roof, is seen easily from the river, but the +tower appears rather inadequate in height. On +approaching, however, it is found to be of massive +work. The interior of the church is wide and +high, and gives that impression of bareness which +is consistent with Norman work. In the east +window is a great pier or transom which is supposed +to have been originally intended as the +support for a groined roof. The north chancel +window is the famous Jesse window, with carved +tracery, carrying figures all the way up the +numerous branches. The lowest is that of Jesse, +from whom spring all the subsequent ones. +Very few figures are missing, considering the age +of the window, and the carving is remarkably +interesting. It is supposed that the figures of the +Virgin and Child were at one time above that of +the patriarch, but were removed at the Reformation. +The rich green glass in the sedilia on the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_52' name='Page_52'>[52]</a></span> +other side of the chancel should be noted. It +is unusual to see sedilia pierced. Two of the nave +arches are plain Norman work. A rood door +remains, and there are one or two handsome altar +tombs; also a leaden font, well moulded, and, +on the east wall of the south aisle, there are +some remains of frescoes. Close to the porch +outside is a graceful shaft with a "restored" head. +</p> + +<p> +The Thame we have already spoken of. Its +arching trees and corners, and deep shady alleys, +make it a delightful place for an idler. It runs +close by the abbey church. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i127" id="i127"></a> +<img src="images/i-127.jpg" width="550" height="448" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">DORCHESTER BACKWATER +</p> +</div> + +<p> +In the river near Dorchester grow the sweet +sedge and the amphibious yellow cress, and on the +banks may be found the blue pimpernel. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_53' name='Page_53'>[53]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i129" id="i129"></a> +<img src="images/i-129.jpg" width="550" height="390" alt="" /> +</div> + +<h2> +CHAPTER V<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +CASTLE AND STRONGHOLD +</span></h2> + +<p> +Wallingford boasts of having the oldest corporation +in England, preceding that of London +by a hundred years, and its record certainly +reaches very far back. In 1006 it was destroyed +by the Danes. William the Conqueror rested +here on his way to London after the battle of +Hastings. The town was then held by Wigod, +a noble Saxon, who lived in his great fortress-castle. +His son-in-law was Robert D'Oyley, +who built the castle at Oxford, and rebuilt and +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_54' name='Page_54'>[54]</a></span> +greatly strengthened that at Wallingford. From +the part of the river above the bridge a tree-grown +mound can be seen, and, further back, a comparatively +modern house. On the mound once stood +the strong castle, and the modern house is its +present-day representative. The grounds are +famous for their trees, and particularly for their +evergreens, which grow thickly on the slopes of +what was once the inner castle moat, for there were +no less than three. No wonder Queen Maud felt +that in reaching Wallingford in safety after her +terrible escape over the frozen meadows of Oxford, +she once more held the lead in the game she and +Stephen played for the crown. Stephen, however, +was not daunted. He settled down at Crowmarsh +across the river, and made strenuous attempts to +take the fortress. After a long time, when the +garrison were beginning to despair, the Queen's +son Henry came to the rescue with a force sufficient +to afford relief. It was at Wallingford the +treaty was made which eventually secured Henry's +succession. The castle was given to Piers Gaveston +by Edward II., but after the fall of Gaveston it +reverted to the Crown. Joan, the Fair Maid of +Kent, wife of the Black Prince, died here in 1385, +and later, in the Civil Wars between King and +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_55' name='Page_55'>[55]</a></span> +Parliament, Wallingford held stoutly to the +Stuarts. The town was the last place in Berkshire +which remained to the King, and it was +taken in July, 1646, after a siege of sixty-five days. +Cromwell, therefore, cherished a grudge against it, +and when he came into power he ordered the castle +to be destroyed, an order which was unfortunately +carried out. Not far away in the same grounds is +a fragment of a ruined and ivy-grown tower. This +is part of an ancient college of St. Nicholas founded +by Edmund, second Earl of Cornwall, who died +in 1300. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i133" id="i133"></a> +<img src="images/i-133.jpg" width="550" height="441" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">WALLINGFORD +</p> +</div> + +<p> +In some ways Wallingford reminds one of +Abingdon. They are both homely, pleasant, +brick-built market-towns, rather sleepy, but self-respecting. +There are several islands beside the +bridge; but Wallingford has not made the most +of its islands. They are bare, and disfigured by +boat-building works. The bridge is fair, and, seen +from below, where a weeping willow falls softly +over one bank, the view is pretty. A conspicuous +feature is the steeple of the church near, looking +as if it had been joined on to the body without +any thought of continuity of style. There are +three churches in Wallingford, which once owned +fourteen! There is rather a good seventeenth +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_56' name='Page_56'>[56]</a></span> +century Town Hall in the market-place and a Corn +Exchange. Friday is the market-day. Both above +and below the town the river is pleasant, though +without original features; there are well-kept parks +and fine-grown trees to be seen frequently. The +only interesting place in the stretch below is +Mongewell, where a large piece of artificial water +joins the river, and near it is a small church +quaintly built. Shute Barrington, the well-known +Bishop of Durham, married for his second wife +the heiress of Mongewell, and lived here before +his death. Below Mongewell is a long, dull stretch, +good for boating, but too unshaded and open to +be pleasant for loiterers. The Trial Eights take +place here in December. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i139" id="i139"></a> +<img src="images/i-139.jpg" width="550" height="440" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">STREATLEY MILL +</p> +</div> + +<p> +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_57' name='Page_57'>[57]</a></span> +</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER VI +<br /><br /> +<span class="s08">TWIN VILLAGES</span> +</h2> + +<div class="figleft"><a name="i141" id="i141"></a> +<img src="images/i-141.jpg" width="325" height="401" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p> +When two villages +stand facing +one another across +a bridge, it is inevitable +that comparisons, +however +impertinent, will +be made. And +it may be said at +once that Streatley, +for all its old +church, its pretty +hotel, and its mill, +cannot dispute +the palm with Goring, which has an older church +and a more charming mill, and many other +advantages. Streatley church is singularly vivid in +colouring. Rarely is there to be seen a deeper +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_58' name='Page_58'>[58]</a></span> +green-gold than that made by the lichen on the red +roof, and when the sunshine flashes out upon it +the effect is positively startling. +</p> + +<p> +Not less attractive in its way is the red-roofed +hotel with its backing of thick, green foliage, its +tiny grass plots on the river's edge, and its gay +flowers. The flour mill would be a valuable asset +in the beauty items of any place not eclipsed by +so near a neighbour. +</p> + +<p> +There are islands in the stream, and the bridge +which runs across them is singularly picturesque. +This is one of the few old wooden bridges remaining, +and it is doubtless destined soon to be replaced +by one of iron, as has been done at Pangbourne. +At this one can hardly cavil, for delightful as are +the long slender wooden piles to look at, they do +seem as if they might give way unexpectedly at +any minute. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i145" id="i145"></a> +<img src="images/i-145.jpg" width="550" height="442" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">STREATLEY +</p> +</div> + +<p> +If we stand down by the lock there are numberless +views in all directions, each good in itself. It +is a hot day in summer, and the vivid scarlet and +the deep carmine of the lock-keeper's geraniums +literally strike one's eyeballs with their colour. +We do not, alas! hear the wash of the water +tumbling over the weir, for weirs in summer often +run dry, or give only a small trickle, though it is +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_59' name='Page_59'>[59]</a></span> +just the time when their gay music would most +appeal to the heart of man. The lock-keeper has +stories to tell of the days before the "pound" +locks, as they used to be called, were made. What +we call the weirs were then the "locks." The great +barges had to be towed up the weirs by means of +rope and capstan; and sometimes, when the water +ran low, they had to wait for weeks for a freshet +that would enable them to get up. The lock here +is only five-eighths of a mile below that at Cleeve, +and these two are the nearest together on the river, +except those of Temple and Hurley. Beyond +Cleeve there is a long stretch of six and a-half +miles before the next, Benson Lock. It almost +seems as if the powers that deal with locks had +in their justice tried to make things even by +multiplying them in the beauty spots, so that those +who want only the best have to pay for it by the +worry of passing locks; while those who are +content with something less can have it without +bother. Some locks, however, have been done +away with as unnecessary. There used to be one +between those of Cleeve and Benson, and another +at Hartslock Wood, below Goring; but these have +disappeared. +</p> + +<p> +The ancient road known as the Icknield Street +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_60' name='Page_60'>[60]</a></span> +crosses the river at Streatley; it was used by the +Romans, but made long before their time. +</p> + +<p> +High beyond the bridge, and, rising above it, +as we stand at the lock, is the grand sweep of hill +locally known as Greenhill, in distinction from +Whitehill on the Goring side. +</p> + +<p> +To the right, on the top of the heights, are the +golf links, and the small white road winds steeply +up, carrying with it a touch of melancholy, which +the sight of a far-away and steep road always gives, +a suggestion of a journey that winds "uphill all +the way." +</p> + +<p> +Reading has now established a regatta to keep +its own folk in its own neighbourhood on the +August Bank-Holiday; and a great boon this +has been to the quiet up-river places, for they are +not now invaded by launches full of rollicking, +bottle-shying crowds, such as are characteristic of +the neighbourhood of all great towns, and on these +occasions apt to become remarkably prominent. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i151" id="i151"></a> +<img src="images/i-151.jpg" width="437" height="550" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">GORING CHURCH +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Goring stands high among Thames villages, +literally and figuratively. Its main street runs +winding up-hill to the station, and though there +are few of the genuine old cottages left, the small +houses which have replaced them have been mostly +built in the best modern river style, with exterior +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_61' name='Page_61'>[61]</a></span> +beams, porches, projecting windows and ornamental +gables. Creepers flourish abundantly. From the +river the church is easily seen. A small and narrow +backwater leads under a bridge to within fifty yards +of the tower. +</p> + +<p> +The building is very old, and was originally the +church of the Augustinian priory. It is partly +covered with rough stucco, which is peeling off +untidily in patches. The tower is Norman, and +has a bastion turret, which greatly adds to its +appearance, and, what is more uncommon, the east +end is an apse, though we are bound in honesty +to say an apse rebuilt. +</p> + +<p> +Close by the church is the mill, which eclipses that +at Streatley in appearance, and shows adaptability +in applying its power as an electric generating +station, while Streatley remains conservative, and +still grinds the sweet-scented white flour. But the +electric charging has not spoilt the mossy roof, +gleaming green and russet alternately, or the pretty +pigeon-house from which flocks of white pigeons +often sweep round over the glistening water and +the low islands. A very large and neat boat-house +lies below the bridge on the Goring side. +</p> + +<p> +Between this and Pangbourne we have at first +rich well-covered heights on the one side, and high, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_62' name='Page_62'>[62]</a></span> +open chalky hills on the other, dotted with the +neat circular clumps usually associated with chalk +uplands. But after a while these are replaced +by the famous Hartslock Woods. +</p> + +<p> +Speaking of the valley of the Thames between +Goring and Henley, in his introduction to the <i>Flora +of Oxfordshire</i>, Mr. G. Claridge Druce says: +</p> + +<p> +"We may wander for miles through verdant +alleys whose groundwork begins in early spring +with the glossy gold of the smaller celandine, followed +by the pale stars of the wood anemones and +myriads of primroses, these giving place to sheets +of hyacinths, 'that seem the heavens upbreaking +through the earth,' the blue being here and there +relieved by the yellow archangel or brightened +with stitchwort; still later on the bluebells are +replaced by masses of the fragrant woodruff, and +these by the more sombre colouring of the bugle. +Then come the creamy-white flowers of the helleborine, +the dull, livid spikes of the bird's nest +orchis and the blue forget-me-nots, giving place +to a galaxy of summer flowers, brightening in later +months into the brilliant yellow of the ragworts and +the purple of the foxgloves. The grassy downs, too, +in spring are resplendent with the milkwort in all +its purity of colour, whether of that typical blue +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_63' name='Page_63'>[63]</a></span> +which rivals the Swiss gentian in beauty, or fading +into white or blushing to pink; while mixed with +it are brilliant patches of rich orange yellow hippocrepis. +Later on appear the rosy crimson spikes of +the pyramidal orchis and the pale lemon flowers +of lady's fingers, and the drooping blue-flowered +campanula. If perchance the land have remained +fallow, the bright flowers of iberis, sometimes suffused +with rich purple, the glaucous foliage of rare +fumarias, the deep crimson petals of the hybrid +poppy, the bright rosy pink spikes of sainfoin and +yellow toad flax, combine to form a varied show." +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i157" id="i157"></a> +<img src="images/i-157.jpg" width="550" height="442" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">GORING +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Before reaching Pangbourne we pass acres of +osier beds on the right. Pangbourne and Whitchurch +stand to each other in the same relation +as do Goring and Streatley, but in this case it is +the southern side to which the palm must be +awarded. At Pangbourne the old wooden bridge has +given place to an iron one, but the deed has been +carried out in a manner that reflects credit on the +doer, for the new bridge runs in a graceful curve, +and its sides of latticed ironwork are painted white. +Seen in glimpses between the islands, the new +bridge does not detract from the charms of Pangbourne, +but rather adds to them. +</p> + +<p> +There are numbers of islands at Pangbourne, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_64' name='Page_64'>[64]</a></span> +and they lie in a great basin between and beneath +the weirs, which are small and frequent. The pool +is full of beauty. The trees grow freshly and well, +and throw a veil of tender green over the water, +which is, on a summer day, brilliant in hues +of blue and green, cobalt, sea-green, pale apple, +indigo; these can all be traced lying in strips and +sections where the riotous torrent from the weirs +frays out its inquietude and loses itself. In one +corner by a pretty cottage is a splash of vivid +crimson, an arcade of roses. Near the bridge +great launch works are a blot and an eyesore, but +it is so seldom we find our ointment without the +proverbial fly. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i163" id="i163"></a> +<img src="images/i-163.jpg" width="550" height="449" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">PANGBOURNE FROM THE SWAN HOTEL +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Pangbourne village is quaint and pleasing enough, +but it is not so beautiful as some of the villages +along the Thames side. No village built haphazard, +with a little river bridged over in its main +street, with a brick-towered church, with dark +evergreens, and a fair amount of creepers, could +fail to be attractive in some sense. But there is +too much new brick in Pangbourne. The river +Pang is a tiny streamlet, and the winding ways do +not hold that charm which can be felt even as one +races by in a motor. Further up the river a row +of neatly-built, red-brick and white-balconied +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_65' name='Page_65'>[65]</a></span> +houses stands up against a high chalk bank overlooking +the river; behind this, in a deep cutting, +runs the railway line. Above the bridge there is +a landing on the Whitchurch side close to the +church, which is a well-kept flint building. In the +chancel there is a monument to the Lybbe family, +dated 1599. Whitchurch is mostly built of red +brick, and is neat and clean, but without any very +great attractions. Before reaching Mapledurham +a fine old house, Hardwicke, is passed. Charles I. +stayed here and played bowls. The house itself +is well protected by trees, but it stands in rather +open country, amid bare chalk uplands, where +sometimes may be seen a curious opaline glow in +pale sunshine. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i165" id="i165"></a> +<img src="images/i-165.jpg" width="550" height="446" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">WHITCHURCH LOCK +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Mapledurham is greatly spoilt by the churlishness +of its main landlord. The lock-keeper is strictly forbidden +to ferry anyone across the river, and though +the crossing would be but short, and would involve +only a walk of a few seconds along the bank to the +mill, it is not permitted. As the nearest bridges +on each side are those of Pangbourne and Caversham, +it is necessary for anyone going by road to +keep to the north side of the river between these +points if he wants to see Mapledurham. The +place certainly is worth some trouble, but it is +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_66' name='Page_66'>[66]</a></span> +small, and the restrictions are tiresome. The fine +old Elizabethan house is a real mansion of the +good old sort; one could imagine endless stories +of romance connected with it. It was fortified +during the civil wars by Sir Arthur Blount, +governor of Reading, and is still held by the same +family. The principal entrance is by an avenue +of elms nearly a mile long, but the house is perhaps +best seen through the gates from the churchyard. +The church is small, and Perpendicular in style, +with the exception of the tower, a modern addition +in flint and brick. There is within a Blount chapel +with many family memorials, including an altar-tomb. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i171" id="i171"></a> +<img src="images/i-171.jpg" width="550" height="448" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">MAPLEDURHAM MILL +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The mill at Mapledurham is also a great delight +to look upon, and numbers of artists sketch it from +every point of view. The islands lying in the +swirl of the weir-pool afford many a quiet nook +in which to anchor, though landing is forbidden. +From this it may be judged that if Mapledurham +is a Paradise, it is sternly guarded with notices, +which meet one on every side with the persistence +of the flaming sword. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_67' name='Page_67'>[67]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i173" id="i173"></a> +<img src="images/i-173.jpg" width="550" height="338" alt="" /> +</div> + +<h2> +CHAPTER VII<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +A MITRED ABBOT +</span></h2> + +<p> +The Abbot of Reading was, like the Abbot of +Abingdon, mitred, and bore powerful rule. Reading +ranked third among the abbeys of England, +and held the great privilege of coining. It was +founded in 1121 by King Henry I. himself, who +was afterwards buried here. It was for long supposed +that Adeliza his queen lay here also, but the +evidence goes to show she was buried in Flanders. +The Empress Maud lies at Reading. The great +church was dedicated by Thomas à Becket, and +in it took place the marriage of John of Gaunt. +</p> + +<p> +Fuller, who is always worth quoting, says that +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_68' name='Page_68'>[68]</a></span> +though Ely "bare away the bell for bountefull +feast making," Reading "spurred up close" to it, +and continues: "The mention of Reading minds +me of a pleasant and true story, which, to refresh +my wearied self and reader, after long pains, I here +intend to relate": +</p> + +<p> +"King Henry VIII. as he was hunting in +Windsor forest lost himself, and struck down about +dinner-time to the Abbey of Reading, where, +disguising himself, he was invited to the abbot's +table and passed for one of the king's guard. A +sirloin of beef was set before him on which the king +laid on lustily, not disgracing one of that place for +whom he was mistaken. 'Well fare thy heart,' +quoth the abbot, 'and here in a cup of sack, I +remember the health of his Grace your master. +I would give a hundred pounds on the condition I +could feed so heartily on beef as you do. Alas, my +weak and squeasy stomach will hardly digest the +wing of a small rabbit or chicken.' The king +pleasantly pledged him, and heartily thanking him +for his good cheer, after dinner departed as undiscovered +as he came thither. Some weeks after the +abbot was sent for by a pursuivant, brought up to +London, clapped in the Tower, kept close prisoner, +fed for a short time with bread and water. Yet +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_69' name='Page_69'>[69]</a></span> +not so empty his body of food as his mind was filled +with fears, creating many suspicions to himself, +when and how he had incurred the king's displeasure. +At last a sirloin of beef was set before +him, on which the abbot fed as the farmer of his +grange, and verified the proverb that 'Two hungry +meals make the third a glutton.' In springs +King Henry out of a private lobby where he +had placed himself, the invisible spectator of the +abbot's behaviour. 'My lord,' quoth the king, +'presently deposit your hundred pounds in gold, +or else no going hence all the days of your life. +I have been your physician to cure you of your +squeasy stomach, and here, as I deserve, I demand +my fee for the same.' The abbot down with his dust, +and glad he had escaped so, returned to Reading, +as somewhat lighter in purse, so much more +merrier in heart than when he came thence." +</p> + +<p> +When the Dissolution came, the abbot, full of +belief in his own strength, defied the king, +though he saw the whirlwind around him which +had devastated other monasteries no less powerful +than his own. There was no over-tenderness in +Henry's methods, and Hugh Faringford, thirty-first +was abbot, hanged, drawn and quartered in front +of his own gateway in 1539. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_70' name='Page_70'>[70]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +There is very little left of this famous abbey now, +and the gateway has been so carefully "restored" +that there is more restoration about it than anything +else; in fact, it is simply a reconstruction. +Nearly all the remains lie within a very few acres, +and the Forbury public garden is on the site of one +of the courts of the abbey. The ruins at the east +end are heavily covered with masses of ivy, but +preserve the outlines of the chapter house and +church, which was over five hundred feet in length. +</p> + +<p> +Reading possessed a castle as well as an abbey, +and the castle has vanished still more completely, +leaving even its exact site unknown, though it is +supposed to have been at the west end of the +present Castle Street, or at the place where the +prison now stands. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i179" id="i179"></a> +<img src="images/i-179.jpg" width="442" height="550" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">CAVERSHAM +</p> +</div> + +<p> +In 871 the Danes got as far up the river as +Reading, and seized both town and castle. Many +times has parliament been held in the ancient +town, and many sovereigns have visited Reading, +including Queen Elizabeth, who stayed there no +less than six times. In the civil wars Reading was +a stronghold for the king until, after a severe siege, +in 1653 the garrison capitulated on condition of +being allowed to walk out free with arms and baggage, +a boon which was granted. After this the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_71' name='Page_71'>[71]</a></span> +place was held by the Parliamentarians, but was +again occupied for the king, only to become once +again the headquarters of the Parliamentary army, +and so it had many changes of fortune. St. Giles's +church still bears the marks of the artillery from +which it suffered during those uncertain times. +There are other churches in Reading, but this is +not a guide book, so there is no need to enumerate +them. Archbishop Laud was born in Reading, +and educated at the Free School. Reading is not +actually on the river, and Caversham may be called +its river-suburb. It is not a place which much +attracts boating men. From its size, its manufactories, +its chimneys, it is necessarily in many +aspects unpleasant to those who have come to seek +their rest and pleasure far from smoke and toil. +The most important industries are Messrs. Sutton's +seed emporium, and Messrs. Huntley and Palmer's +biscuit factory, which employs more than five +thousand persons; there are also breweries and +many lesser works. Did it not lie between two +such pre-eminently charming places as Sonning +and Mapledurham, boating people would avoid it +altogether. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_72' name='Page_72'>[72]</a></span> +</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER VIII<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +<span class='smcap'>Sonning and its Roses</span> +</span></h2> + +<div class="figleft"><a name="i182" id="i182"></a> +<img src="images/i-182.jpg" width="327" height="411" alt="" /> + +</div> +<p> +There are certain +notable details of +the river-side +which stand out +in the mind after +the rest have been +merged in mere +general remembrance +of lazy +happiness. In +these we may include +the backwater +at Sutton +Courtney, the +woods at Clieveden, the Mill at Mapledurham, +and the Rose Garden at Sonning. Roses grow +well all along by the river, but nowhere so +well as they do at Sonning, and the rose +garden forms an attraction which draws hundreds +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_73' name='Page_73'>[73]</a></span> +to the place. Yet Sonning has other attractions +too; it is very varied and very pretty. +When one arrives at it first, perhaps coming +upstream, one is rather perplexed to discover the +exact topography. We round a great curve which +encloses an osier bed; here, in early spring, the +osiers may be seen lying in great bundles, shaded +from olive-green to brown madder. Then we see +some green lawns and landing places beneath the +shadow of a fine clump of elms, and catch sight of +the lovable old red-brick bridge, with its high centre +arch, spanning the stream. But there is another +bridge, a wooden foot-bridge, which also spans the +stream, at right angles to the other, and peering +through beneath this, we can see the continuation +of the red brick one in a new iron structure, which +stretches on right up to the neat flower beds of the +French Horn Hotel. The truth is, the river suddenly +widens out here into a great bulge, and in +the bulge are several islands, on one of which are +a mill and a house and several other things, not to +forget a charming garden. It is the river channel +between this island and the bank that the first +bridge, the old one, spans. And what a view it is! +Above the bridge can be seen rising the little grey +church tower. On one side is the White Hart +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_74' name='Page_74'>[74]</a></span> +Hotel, with its warm tone of yellow wash, its red +tiles and its creepers, and above all its famous rose +garden. In the foreground is a willow-covered ait +placed in exactly the right position. It is a perfect +picture. But yet this is not the best side of the +bridge. The other side is better; for here, to resist +the flow of the current, the builders placed the +buttresses which emphasise the height of that +centre arch; buttresses now capped with tufty +grass and emerald moss, and from the crevices of +which spring clumps of yellow daisies, candytuft, +wallflower, hart's-tongue fern, and other things. In +the bricks all colours may be seen, after the manner +of worn bricks, not even excluding blue. The +mill is, as it should be, wooden, and with Sandford +Mill, is mentioned in Domesday Book. From the +dark shadow beneath its wheel, the largest on the +river, gurgles away the water in cool green streams, +passing beneath the overhanging boughs of planes +and horse-chestnuts. From the mighty sweep of +the wheel, as it may be seen in its house, the drops +rise glittering in cascades to varying heights like +the sprays of diamonds on a tiara. The mill-house, +called Aberlash, stands not far off on the same +island, with a delightful garden. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i185" id="i185"></a> +<img src="images/i-185.jpg" width="550" height="446" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">THE ROSE GARDEN AT SONNING +</p> +</div> + +<p> +This island spreads onward with green lawns in a +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_75' name='Page_75'>[75]</a></span> +sweeping semicircle to the lock and cottage, and +from two small weirs the water dances down, +adding variety to a beautiful pool where stand +many irregular pollard willows on tiny aits. Over +the smaller weir, framed in a setting of evergreens, +is a bit of far distant blue landscape. There is a +bank here too, an embankment, which might be +covered with flowers according to its owner's design, +but that the water nymphs, intolerant of flowers, +except those of their own choosing, take a wicked +delight in sweeping down over the weir, and +sending the water flowing like a lace shawl all over +the embankment to carry back all the roots and +bulbs and other things that may have been planted +there to use as playthings; their gurgle of delight +at their own unending joke may be heard all day +long. +</p> + +<p> +The shy kingfishers love the big pool below +the weir, but it is not often they are seen unless +the watcher has the faculty for making himself +invisible against his background and is able to +remain motionless. +</p> + +<p> +The woods of the Holme Park, rising high close +by, throw a deep-toned shadow on the picture, +particularly refreshing on a baking summer's day. +Many birds find their refuge in these woods, and at +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_76' name='Page_76'>[76]</a></span> +night the weird cries of the owls sound hauntingly +over the flats. A ghost is supposed to inhabit the +park, and the owl's cry might very well serve for a +ghost's moan on occasion. +</p> + +<p> +Having thus explored the puzzling bit of river, +we may land and walk up through the Rose +Garden, or, according to Mr. Ashby Sterry in his +<i>Lays of a Lazy Minstrel</i>: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Let's land at the lawn of the cheery White Hart, +</p> +<p> +Now gay with the glamour of June! +</p> +<p> +For here we can lunch to the music of trees, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + In sight of the swift river running, +</p> +<p> +Off cuts of cold beef and a prime Cheddar cheese, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + And a tankard of bitter at Sonning. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +For the sake of those who have gardens of their +own, we give a list of the principal roses grown at +Sonning: +</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p> +Monsieur E. Y. Teas, Madame Marie les Dier, Marie +Baumann, Viscountess Folkestone, Duchess of Bedford, +Aimée Vibert, Prince Camille de Rohan, W. A. Richardson, +Edouard Morren, Queen of Queens, Sultan of Zanzibar, +Suzanne M. Rodocanachi, Madame de Watteville, Souvenir +d'un Ami, Homer, Duke of Teck, Duke of Edinburgh, +Cristal, Jules Margottin, Mavourneen, Rêve d'Or, Clio, +Countess of Rosebery, The Bourbon, Souvenir de la +Malmaison, Maréchal Niel, Alfred Colombo, Mrs. W. J. +Grant, Magna Charta, La France, Prince Arthur, Charles +Lefebvre, Dean Hole, Mrs. F. Laing, Maman Cochet, +Madame Willinoz, Horace Vernet, Caroline Testout, Gloire +de Dijon, Auguste Rigstard, Abel Carrière, Abel Grand, +Eclair, Rubens, Bessie Brown, Beauty of Waltham, Boule de +Neige, Jeremiah Dickson, Catherine Mermet, Gruss an +Teplitz, Lady Battersea. +</p> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i193" id="i193"></a> +<img src="images/i-193.jpg" width="550" height="438" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">SONNING +</p> +</div> + +<p> +With this brilliant mass of colour, the rich dark +reds, the glorious pinks, the pale yellows, dead +whites and the flaming apricot of William Allen +Richardson, the effect may be imagined; and the +entry to all this beauty is beneath a trellised arch +covered with masses of the Crimson Rambler! +</p> + +<p> +Sonning village itself is very irregular, uphill and +downhill, with roads all ways. There are rights of +way through the quiet churchyard, where there is +a row of magnificent elms, and the villagers are +real flower lovers. Almost at any season of the +year at which flowers will flourish out of doors, +flowers there are to be seen. Earliest of all, the +quince, the yellow jasmine, and the dainty almond +blossom; then the golden bunches of laburnum +and the fresh mauve lilac; later on roses of all +kinds, not always climbing, but in bushes and +clumps. Window boxes are seen everywhere, and +Virginia creeper and ampelopsis cover up all bare +corners. The houses themselves are charming. +There are many more cottages in the older style +than can be found at Wargrave. Many a tiny +diamond-paned window is seen high up, almost lost +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_78' name='Page_78'>[78]</a></span> +in a straggling creeper. The projecting storeys, +the brown lathes imbedded deep in the brick, +making rectangles of broken colour, the yellow +wash of a deep umber, the high external chimneys, +all make up many nooks to be looked at again and +again with appreciation. Sydney Smith was staying +at Sonning in 1807, and we can but admire his +taste. +</p> + +<p> +There is a tradition, very hazy, that Sonning was +once the seat of a bishopric. There is no evidence +at all as to this, but the fact that the See of Salisbury +has held the manor since the time when +Domesday Book was made may have led to the +error. +</p> + +<p> +The bishops had a house here, and it was at the +bishops' house that King John stayed for six days +a month before his death. Leland says: "And +yet remaineth a faire olde House there of stone, +even by the Tamise Ripe longging to the Bishop +of Saresbyri, and thereby is a fine Park." +</p> + +<p> +The oldest parts of the church probably date +from 1180, but there is very little of this date left. +The principal bits are the south doorway and a +small window above it. The south aisle was built +about 1350, the piers of the nave about 1400, at +which date the chancel was added. The north +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_79' name='Page_79'>[79]</a></span> +chancel aisle and the north aisle came about 100 +years later. The whole church was restored in +1852. There are one or two interesting monuments +to be seen in it, and it is a good model of +what a well-preserved, dignified parish church +should be. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_80' name='Page_80'>[80]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i198" id="i198"></a> +<img src="images/i-198.jpg" width="550" height="460" alt="" /> + +</div> + +<h2> +CHAPTER IX<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +WARGRAVE AND NEIGHBOURHOOD +</span></h2> + +<p> +Wargrave is one of the most delightful of +Thames-side villages. There is not much that is +old among the houses that line the village street; +thatch has almost gone. Wooden beams are not +noticeable, except when used in the modern +architecture that imitates the old; the material +seen everywhere is red brick. Wind and weather, +however, soon tone down the asperities of red brick, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_81' name='Page_81'>[81]</a></span> +and from the rich soil creepers spring up quickly +to cover it with loving tendrils; so the street +becomes a delightful medley of casement windows, +gable ends, and bushy foliage. Not the least of +the charm is that each small house has its own +ideas about frontage, and entirely refuses to stand +in line with the rest. There are houses with their +doorsteps in the roadway, and houses modestly +retiring behind bushes in their strip of garden. +Here is a wistaria with a stem as thick as a +man's arm, and there roses and sweetbriar, purple +clematis and starry jasmine, succeeding and intermingling. +Wargrave has learnt to choose the +good and refuse the evil of the modern spirit; +she is clean and self-respecting as some villages +will never learn to be. Her small shops are good +of their kind, but self-conscious she is not, or +garish, or any other of the horrible things associated +with modernity. +</p> +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i201" id="i201"></a> +<img src="images/i-201.jpg" width="550" height="437" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">THE CHURCH AT WARGRAVE +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The place centres about cross roads, but straggles +in many directions, and on the high ground +surrounding it many a new house has been built +lately, and stands amid delightful grounds. +</p> + +<p> +The church, which is near the open green, +where grow fine trees, is of flint, with a red-brick +pinnacled tower, half ivy-covered. In the church +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_82' name='Page_82'>[82]</a></span> +is buried Thomas Day, author of <i>Sandford and +Merton</i>, who was killed by a fall from his horse +in 1789. A Norman doorway, a carved oak +pulpit black with age, and a huge family pew, tell +of long survival, and give the church the same +touch of self-respecting dignity that the village +has. It can be seen from the water, peeping over +greenery near a backwater, with its tower overtopped +by trees. +</p> + +<p> +The whole of Wargrave is seen to advantage +from the water or from the meadows opposite. +Many green lawns slope down to the brink, and +the height of the bushy elms is a thing to note. +A few Lombardy poplars break the fulness of +the bosky foliage with their elongated ovals, and +that most graceful of all trees, the wych elm, +curves his beautiful lines in soft arches over the +velvety lawns or smoothly-flowing water. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Witch elms that counterchange the floor +</p> +<p class="i1"> + Of this flat lawn with dusk and bright; +</p> +<p class="i1"> + And thou, with all thy breadth and height +</p> +<p> +Of foliage, towering sycamore. +</p> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p class="rjust"> +—<i>Tennyson.</i> +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +The river turns almost a right angle at Wargrave, +and, from running eastward, goes due north. +The little village, being situated at the bend, gets +the benefit of both vistas. The George Hotel, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_83' name='Page_83'>[83]</a></span> +indeed, stands exactly at the angle, and the +sweep of the water catches its wharf with full +force. It boasts a signboard painted by two +R.A.s; this is preserved indoors, while another +swings as its proxy in the village street. Placed +as it is in regard to the river channel, and with +the wide flats of Shiplake meadows opposite, +the hotel is exposed, and the very openness of +its garden, an attraction which draws hundreds +of summer visitors, makes it a butt for the racing +winds of early spring. It is a pretty hotel built +of brick, with a white painted verandah, after +the usual river pattern; and a gigantic wistaria +embowers all the front in its delicate mauve in +summer, while roses trained over trellis work +flash answering colour signals. +</p> + +<p> +The view over the river includes the glowing +sunsets, which leave a slowly dying splendour +behind a distant bank of trees. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +And there was still, where day had set, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + A flush that spoke him loth to die; +</p> +<p> +A last link of his glory yet +</p> +<p class="i1"> + Binding together earth and sky. +</p> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p class="rjust"> +—<i>Moore.</i> +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +Looking up to the left is the railway bridge, +which is not so ugly as it might be; below, every +hundred yards shows fresh beauties. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_84' name='Page_84'>[84]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +Wargrave backwater is one of the most noted +on the river, and in summer, or early spring, is +a fairyland of greenery. The entrance is behind +the large willow-covered island that lies below +the hotel. The tiny arched bridge, not far in, +is so low that one has to lie full length in a +boat in order to pass under it. This is called +Fiddler's bridge, though no local tradition keeps +alive the origin of the name. The gentle light +shimmers down between the spear-leaved willows +in a veil of glory, and the stream is so narrow, +one can almost touch the banks with both hands +at once. In the main stream meantime, there are +several islands decorated with the new rough +stuccoed houses now so popular in river architecture, +and, at the end where the backwater +emerges again, there is a brightly-coloured boat-house. +Beyond this, again, is a long stretch where +there are generally house-boats. In winter, a little +creek on the left bank is a kind of storehouse for +them. This is a fine wide reach, and above it +rises Wargrave Hill with its large white house +conspicuously placed. +</p> + +<p> +Further down, the river makes a succession of +curves; and facing up stream is Bolney Court, in +a solid, old-fashioned style, of a dull yellow colour, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_85' name='Page_85'>[85]</a></span> +while, behind and around it, the deep blue-green +of Scotch firs is seen among the lighter foliage, +and on the curving heights which block the vista +to the north, the heights above Henley, these +trees are conspicuous everywhere. Indeed, evergreens +of all kinds flourish well in the chalky +soil about Wargrave. +</p> + +<p> +The late C. J. Cornish said somewhere that +Thames eyots always seem to have been put in +place by a landscape gardener, and those about +Bolney recall the words. They are thickly grown +over by sedge and osiers, and overshadowed by taller +trees; between them, the channels of shining water, +half hidden half revealed, gain all the charm of +elusiveness. Has anyone ever reflected what a +kindly thought it was of Nature's, to arrange +that trees growing on the water's edge should +invariably take an outward angle, so as to lean +over the water? How much less effective the +result would have been had they grown inward, +may be pictured by imagining a river without +reflections. In the stillness of a backwater, or +in the narrowed channel beside a large island, +the beautiful effect of this outward angle is +best seen. If the channel be very narrow, the +trunks fold one behind the other in perspective, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_86' name='Page_86'>[86]</a></span> +so as to form an arch over a shining aisle. In +the water, all the many-coloured gnarled stems +are smoothed by the gentle movement into something +softer than the rigid reality, with its hard +knots of shadow. The different colouring on +the stems of the same species of tree is a thing +to marvel at. From the deep mahogany of a joint +where the damp has made an open wound, to +the faint biscuit-colour of the place where a strip +of bark has been newly peeled off, the stems of +pollarded willows furnish every brown and yellow +on a painter's palette. Many of them are richly +crowned by a head of ivy, whose satin-smooth leaves +fall in garlands like locks, and sway with every +touch of air. These are reflected in the water +as a shaded mass of green with no detail. +</p> + +<p> +There are so many varieties of willow that it +is difficult for the lay mind to remember them +all, and numbers of them are to be seen about +Wargrave. It is the Crack willow and the White +willow, with long slender leaves, that are commonly +pollarded as osiers, though they will grow tall +enough if they are allowed to. There is a legend +that the mournful droop of the leaves of the +weeping willow is a reminiscence of the sad time +of the Captivity: +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_87' name='Page_87'>[87]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +By the waters of Babylon we sat down and wept, when we remembered thee, O Sion; +</p> +<p> +As for our harps, we hanged them up upon the willow trees that grow therein. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +Besides the willows, there are their cousins, the +poplars, chief among which, is the fine Populus +tremula, whose leaves whisper perpetual secrets, +even on the stillest days. This is caused by the +broad leaves being attached to a slender flattened +stalk. They are silky on the wrong side, and when +the wind blows through the foliage it turns a soft +greyish white, like a cottony mass. There is a +legend that the wood of this tree was used for +the Cross, and that in consequence it has trembled +ever since, and so its leaves are in a perpetual state +of quivering. +</p> + +<p> +The poplar, like the ash, is not kind to +neighbouring trees, its numerous suckers taking +more than their share of nourishment and moisture +from the ground, and the leaves, when they fall, +seem to be as destructive as those of the beech, +for grass will not grow where they lie. +</p> + +<p> +In spring, these trees shed their long catkins, +like hairy caterpillars, all over the water, and +they are swept up in heaps into every eddy. +</p> + +<p> +In spite of the delights of summer, there is a +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_88' name='Page_88'>[88]</a></span> +time which well bears comparison with it; I mean +the first fine days of early spring, before the rest +of the world has awakened to the fact that winter +is over. And about Wargrave at such times there +is to be found great charm by those whose senses +are alert. It is true that the splendid hedge +that lines the tow-path shows only the long +withes of the creepers and no starry flowers; that +the graceful sprays of the wild rose now appear +barbed and polished and ferocious, instead of +sweet and enticing. A bush of barberry or +berberis is not often seen in hedges, for the old +folk-lore taught that wheat never throve when +the barberry was in the hedge; therefore the +farmers grubbed it up whenever they found it. +But science has confirmed the empirical wisdom +of our fathers, for it was discovered that the +barberry furnishes the intermediate host for rust +in wheat. On the green river bank there are +quivering blades of tender green, but no flowers +with their umbrella heads of white, or bunchy +yellow, or pale mauve. Yet still there are +compensations. To begin with, the river itself +talks in spring as it never does in summer, and +what is better, one can hear it without the +interruption of human chatter or noise. One has +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_89' name='Page_89'>[89]</a></span> +the whole stretch to one's self, and attuning one's +ear to the key of that conversation, one can +listen to it sucking at the bank, flop-flopping +under the prow of one's punt, chuckling as it races +past the pole, and, laughing a little silvery laugh +of merriment, that we call rippling—a word we +have learnt to adapt to our poor human attempts +in the same direction. The river sprites are with +us, and very busy they are—ceaselessly busy about +nothing at all, and so happy in their activity that +to hear them is to laugh for right good fellowship. +The wind is in the water, urging them on faster +and faster; each wavelet has its crest of foam, +and, in the heights and hollows ahead there is +every shade of green, from emerald to olive. One +must be very still in order to imbibe the real +spirit of the scene, for they are shy, these river +nymphs, as shy as the birds and beasts that live +around them, and have learned the fear of tempestuous +man. A shy-bold wren, with a sudden +glint of sunlight on his rich brown back, flies +to the edge of the water where the punt lies +drifting, and then darts back in haste to the +shelter of that commanding hedge he never +likes to leave. His pertness is all in his appearance; +never did looks so belie a timid character! +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_90' name='Page_90'>[90]</a></span> +A water-hen, startled by the sudden dip of the +pole, flies out of the reeds close by, and skims +in a swift low line to the islet opposite; her +smooth dark body, with the elongated neck and +scant tail, resembles an Eastern water skin. +</p> + +<p> +There is a gentle continuous whispering among +the reeds, as if they questioned themselves, with +quiet disapprobation, why the river was always +in such a hurry. From the field behind the hedge +comes the sweet scream of a wheeling peewit, and +two large wood-pigeons flap noisily from the tall +trees on the island, a very picture of contented +domesticity. +</p> + +<p> +We slide on gently, close by the tow-path, until +the tall hedge comes to an end, and the green +meadows stretch right away from the lip of the +river, and around them rise the tree-crowned +heights in a semicircle, like the tiers of a giant +amphitheatre. +</p> + +<p> +Flop! A water rat dives furtively. Though +called a rat, he is in reality a vole, and is almost +exclusively graminivorous; in this differing from +his namesake, the real rat, which also haunts river +banks, especially near mills. With hoarse squawk, +a wild duck rises heavily from cover, and after +the first difficult spiral, wings off like an arrow, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_91' name='Page_91'>[91]</a></span> +his long neck extended. It is a day of cloud +and shadow, and suddenly the light breaks out +on the trees ahead with a wild freshness that +makes one catch one's breath. It races up +stream, and the dun is turned to gold at the +touch of its breath. The sweetness of early +spring is in the air and in our blood; the larks +feel it as they rise: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p class="i7"> + Sounds of vernal showers +</p> +<p class="i8"> + On the twinkling grass, +</p> +<p class="i7"> + Rain-awaken'd flowers, +</p> +<p class="i8"> + All that ever was +</p> +<p> +Joyous, and clear, and fresh, thy music doth surpass. +</p> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p class="rjust"> +—<i>Shelley.</i> +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +And there is a stirring of sap and juice in things—small +things deep down in dark holes and corners, +and in all green and growing things. +</p> + +<p> +After this, how cloying the richness of summer, +with its still days, its glaring reflections, the +luscious foliage, and the overpowering scents—the +thought of it strikes one's senses as the +thought of a hothouse would strike a child of the +moor and the mountain. And when we remember +Wargrave regatta, with its crowded banks, its +lined shores, its flags a-flutter, and its noise, we +are thankful that August is afar off. +</p> + +<p> +Though we have wandered down stream, the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_92' name='Page_92'>[92]</a></span> +bit above Wargrave is equally attractive. Just +beyond the railway bridge the river Loddon flows +into the Thames. To pass up it and its tributary, +St. Patrick's stream, is no easy feat; yet by using +this loop the lock may be evaded, and it is the +only place on the river where such a trick is +possible. It is, however, far the best to explore +this by-way from the other end and to come +down stream by its means. To reach it, one must +go high up above the lock, beyond the last of +the chain of islands which here breaks the channel, +and there turn in under a small bridge, into this +curious tributary, which starts from the river and +returns to it again. It flows at first through +wide flat meadows, and then bifurcates, one +branch, blocked by a weir, communicating again +with the Thames, and the other falling into the +Loddon, and with it rejoining the main river. +</p> + +<p> +Part of St. Patrick's stream is fringed by +well-grown uniform pollard willows that hedge +it like a wall. In summer, when the meadows +are rich in buttercups, and the wind hums softly +over the clover, bringing wafts of scent, and +many a quaint weed adds its note of colour to +the general harmony, it is very charming. But +the most delightful feature is the growth of the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_93' name='Page_93'>[93]</a></span> +Leucojum æstivum, or summer snowflake, which +is so numerous that it is popularly known as the +Loddon lily. This is like a large snowdrop in +which several blooms spring from one head. It is +also to be found on several of the islands in the +main river near, but is not abundant there. The +Loddon itself rises far inland: Twyford gets its +name from lying near two branches, a twy-ford. +The stream is slow, and it is only the swift current +of St. Patrick that enlivens it lower down. +</p> + +<p> +Above the mouth of the Loddon there lies an +interesting bit of the river. On a large island, +owned by the Corporation of London, stands the +lock-keeper's cottage, and opposite to it, on the +mainland, a delightful old mill-house with tiled +roof, and that weather-worn, rather battered +appearance, which all self-respecting mill-houses +aim at as the perfection of ripeness. The long +tongue of the lock island projects down stream +like the nose of a pike. In winter, the little +moorhens, partly tamed by hunger, and reassured +by the absence of those noisy humans who come +in such numbers in warmer weather, run about +all over it. Other things run too, all the year +round; the lock-keeper has a fine stock of hens, +but accepts philosophically the fact that he can +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_94' name='Page_94'>[94]</a></span> +never rear any chickens "because of the rats." +The rats, which are attracted by the ample stores +at the mill-house, and find such variety of +lodgings along the banks of the stream and in +the crevices of the much worn woodwork, are the +pest of these places. +</p> + +<p> +The island is a popular camping ground, and +the pitches are generally secured early in the +season, having been well prepared beforehand by +being laid in sand and flints to ensure a dry +foundation. There are also a tiny bungalow, to +be had for two guineas the week, and a bathing +place available. Altogether a very attractive +island. The main stream races over the weir, +forming a wide tumbling pool below, and on the +other side of the island there is a pleasant stretch +down to the lock. These lock channels are +among some of the most charming places on +the river. They are generally very still, with the +mass of water hardly moving. On some days +every twig is reflected, and the view in this +particular one is well worth looking at, as, with +the group of the mill buildings rising high on +one side, and the cottage with its accompaniment +of standard roses on the other, there are the +elements of a most satisfactory composition. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_95' name='Page_95'>[95]</a></span> +The meadows slope down at just that angle that +shows them off to the best advantage; they are +dotted with fine trees and are crowned by clumps +of wood, from which sounds the homely cawing +of rooks. The red cows stand knee-deep in the +placid water, lashing at the flies with their tails; +and on the other side is a mass of greenery: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p class="i4"> + I ... +</p> +<p> +Walked forth to ease my pain +</p> +<p> +Along the shore of silver streaming Thames; +</p> +<p> +Whose rutty bank, the which his river hems, +</p> +<p> +Was painted all with variable flowers, +</p> +<p> +And all the meads adorned with dainty gems +</p> +<p> +Fit to deck maidens' bowers. +</p> + +<hr /> <!-- +<tb> + --> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Sweet Thames! run softly till I end my song. +</p> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p class="rjust"> +—<i>Spenser.</i> +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +Shiplake stands high above the flat meadows +by the river bank. The little flint church, in which +Tennyson was married, has a prettily buttressed +tower, and around it grow many tall evergreens +and waving trees. There are also some interesting +old frescoes on the walls, two representing +St. Christopher, who seems particularly appropriate +in a river church. From the porch, down between +two rows of shrubs, one can look on to the top +of a mass of trees, which shuts out a bend of +the silver river, and beyond them see the blue +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_96' name='Page_96'>[96]</a></span> +distance, miles and miles away. Mrs. Climenson, +whose book on Shiplake was privately printed, +suggests that the name originated in schiff-laacken, +for the story goes that when the Danes got so +far, their boats stuck on the shoals, and their commander +ordered them to be burnt, to prevent a +possibility of retreat. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_97' name='Page_97'>[97]</a></span> +</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER X<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +HENLEY REGATTA +</span></h2> + +<div class="figleft"><a name="i219" id="i219"></a> +<img src="images/i-219.jpg" width="323" height="407" alt="" /> + +</div> +<p> +Who can ever +think of Henley +without its regatta? +And yet +Henley is very +well worth thinking +of at all times +of the year. It is +a pleasantly-built, +middle-aged, red-brick +town. Its +history does not +reach back so far +as that of Abingdon +or Reading. It boasts neither abbey nor +cathedral. Near the esplanade above the bridge, +there are one or two of the tumble-down, out-of-perpendicular +style of cottages, which invariably +add so much to a river scene; but the main +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_98' name='Page_98'>[98]</a></span> +part of the town, which is, of course, of red +brick, has a homely air of the seventeenth +century about it. The solid and stately Red +Lion Hotel, close to the bridge, is one of the +most historic houses in the place. Charles I. +stayed here in 1632, when, after severe dissensions, +he was trying the method of ruling England without +a Parliament, and when the terrible fate that +was to befall him had not yet "cast its shadow +before." It is doubtful if he paid his bills, for +he was in chronic want of money; but he left +a memento behind him which has more than +repaid the hotel, for it forms a perennial source of +interest. This is a large fresco painting of the +royal monogram and coat of arms over one of +the mantelpieces, and from the date it is evident it +was done at the time of this visit. It was not +discovered till 1889, having probably been hastily +concealed during the troublous days of Cromwell's +ascendency. Being on one of the principal coaching +roads, Henley received more than its share of +celebrated visitors. On July the 12th, 1788, +George III., with the Queen and three of +his daughters, had breakfast at the Red Lion; +George IV. once dined here; and the celebrated +Duke of Marlborough regularly kept a room here +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_99' name='Page_99'>[99]</a></span> +that he might use it in his journeys from Blenheim; +his bed is still preserved. After these associations, +that of Shenstone, who wrote a poem with a +diamond on a window-pane, comes as an anticlimax. +The poem begins: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +To thee, fair Freedom, I retire, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + From flattery, cards, and dice, and din; +</p> +<p> +Nor art thou found in mansions higher +</p> +<p class="i1"> + Than the low cott or humble inn. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +And the last verse, which is often quoted, runs: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Whoe'er has travell'd life's dull round, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + Whate'er his stages may have been, +</p> +<p> +May sigh to think he still has found +</p> +<p class="i1"> + The warmest welcome at an inn. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +In summer the red brick of the hotel is almost +hidden by the creepers which embrace it; especially +noticeable is the glorious wistaria, most lovely of +all the climbing plants. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i223" id="i223"></a> +<img src="images/i-223.jpg" width="550" height="440" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">RED LION HOTEL, HENLEY +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The bridge was built in 1786, and is of stone. +The keystones of the central arch are adorned with +sculptured masks of Thame and Isis. They were +the work of Mrs. Damer, a cousin of Horace +Walpole's, and as such falling within the limits of +the great man's kindly appreciation. Behind the +hotel and well seen from the bridge, is the church, +with its four corner pinnacles. +</p> + +<p> +At the time of the regatta, and for some weeks +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_100' name='Page_100'>[100]</a></span> +before, it is impossible to get accommodation in +the town anywhere. Of all the river regattas +Henley is by far the greatest, and comes even +before the Boat Race in the estimation of some +people. The races used to end at the bridge, and +so the lawn of the Red Lion was in the position of +a favoured grand-stand, but now the winning post +is a quarter of a mile short of this, opposite the +last villa on the left bank. The starting point is +near Temple or Regatta Island, and the reach +certainly makes a fine one for the purpose. The +course is railed off by piles and booms, and all the +hundreds of craft which gather to the scene have +to cram themselves in somehow, so as not to cause +obstruction. It is well not to select an outrigged +boat for such an occasion. The best and most +commonly seen craft are punts, worked by means +of canoe paddles; for the punts are too solid to +collapse easily in the pressure that may be put +upon them, and the paddles, requiring little room +to work, are less dangerous to one's neighbours than +poles. But all kinds of skiffs and canoes appear, and +some are even bold enough to tempt fate in Canadian +canoes. On a brilliant day, when the light +sparkles on the water, and there is enough wind +to set the pennons and streamers flying, the scene +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_101' name='Page_101'>[101]</a></span> +is undeniably gay and pretty. All the luncheon +tents on the green lawns near form a bright +adjunct. Salter and Talboys, from Oxford, and +other boat-builders, have landing-stages for the +week, and the various clubs entertain largely. +Chief among these is the Leander, whose fine +club-house is on the right bank not far from the +bridge; it also has a lawn further down. Not +far off are the grand-stand, the Grosvenor, and +the New Oxford and Cambridge Clubs, and one +large lawn is taken as a clubland <i>pied-à-terre</i> +for the use of any members of London clubs in +general. But beside these there are the Isthmian, +Sports, and Bath Clubs on the left bank, and +Phyllis Court, with smooth lawns; and then a long +line of house-boats begins, continuing past Fawley +Court on to Temple Island, with just one break for +the lawns of the Court. Bands play, luncheons are +consumed, flags flutter; everyone is gay and lively, +and the scene is one that can hardly be described +justly in mere word painting. At noon the first +race is rowed. A bell is rung to clear the course. +All sorts of boats and canoes have slipped out +between the openings left for them, and they must +hurry back and crush into the already tightly +wedged mass; in a moment everything else is +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_102' name='Page_102'>[102]</a></span> +forgotten in the excitement of the special event. +On the last evening of the regatta there is a grand +firework display and a procession of illuminated +boats; and, as may very well be guessed, the real +success of Henley depends greatly upon the +weather, which, even in the first week of July, +when it takes place, is not always kind. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i229" id="i229"></a> +<img src="images/i-229.jpg" width="550" height="439" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">HENLEY REGATTA +</p> +</div> + +<p> +As we have said, the surroundings of Henley +are of a sort to attract attention, even without the +additional glories of the regatta. Above the bridge +is a long ait, and high on the right bank rise the +woods of Park Place. Here the brilliant green of +the beeches is diversified by the dark blue-greens +of fir and cedar. The Place was once the residence +of Frederick, Prince of Wales, and the grounds +were greatly improved by Field-Marshal Conway, +a cousin of Horace Walpole. A long glade is cut +through the wood. It runs under a bridge made +of blocks of stone taken from Reading Abbey, +and over this passes the road. From the river a +peep of the striking vista can be had. Higher +up again is Marsh Lock. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i235" id="i235"></a> +<img src="images/i-235.jpg" width="550" height="445" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">HAMBLEDEN +</p> +</div> + +<p> +But the influence of Henley extends down as +well as up the river. Phyllis and Fawley Courts +both at one time belonged to Bulstrode Whitelocke. +Fawley was wrecked very early in the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_103' name='Page_103'>[103]</a></span> +civil wars; but Phyllis was strongly fortified, and +some of the earthworks may still be seen. Henley +was a Parliamentarian stronghold, and was annoyed +by the neighbourhood of plucky little Greenlands +at Hambleden, which, "for a little fort, was made +very strong for the King." +</p> + +<p> +It belonged in the time of the Stuarts to Sir +Cope d'Oyley, who was a staunch Royalist. When +he died his eldest son held Greenlands for the +King, and his house was battered by the cannon +of the Parliamentarians from across the water. In +the nineteenth century the Rt. Hon. W. H. Smith +lived here, and his widow took from the village the +title he himself never lived to enjoy. In Hambleden +also there is a fine old manor house, and +some of the clipped yews in the gardens of +private houses are very remarkable. High above +the place rise the woods near Fingest and Stokenchurch. +The weirs at Hambleden are the most +attractive on the river. Long curved bridges run +across them from shore to shore, and are open +to the public as a right-of-way. The curves strike +off at different angles, and every moment the point +of view changes. Whether we are passing over +tumbling weirs, where the water glides across long +mossy planes, or over sluice-gates where it bursts +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_104' name='Page_104'>[104]</a></span> +through, the enchantment is the same. Flags and +tall yellow irises and the greenest of green tufts +grow in the water and about the foundations of +the bridges. Looking back at the mill, we see it +reflected in the calm, deep water above the weirs +as in a polished looking-glass. There are old cedars +and red-roofed cottages, and plenty of Scotch firs +and yew hedges in the background. Away up the +river is the white mass of Greenlands with its +pierced look-out tower. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_105' name='Page_105'>[105]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i239" id="i239"></a> +<img src="images/i-239.jpg" width="550" height="424" alt="" /> + +</div> +<h2> +CHAPTER XI<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +THE ROMANCE OF BISHAM AND HURLEY +</span></h2> + +<p> +One of the greatest calumnies I ever heard +expressed was the remark, "What, writing a +book about the river! Why, the river is all alike, +isn't it?" It is true that many reaches of the river +are so exceedingly attractive that there is a danger +of applying the adjectives "pretty" and "beautiful" +and "charming" to many of them, but the sameness +is not in the reaches, it is in the poverty of +one's own language. What can be more different, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_106' name='Page_106'>[106]</a></span> +for instance, than the river about Maidenhead and +the river above Marlow? Yet both are delightful. +The patrons of the Maidenhead part no doubt +outnumber those of Bisham and Hurley, but that +is because Maidenhead is one of the most accessible +places on the river. The station at Marlow is +on a branch, and many a weary hour must be +spent waiting, if one is dependent on trains. This +is the only station for Hurley and Bisham, unless +we go on equally far in the other direction to +Henley. However, this is one of the reasons why +the Marlow section is preferable to the Maidenhead +one—when you do get there. +</p> + +<p> +Great Marlow itself is a fairly important place +for a riverside village. It is like a little country +town, and though many new red-brick villas are +springing up, it could not be called "residential" +in the way that the word could be applied to +Richmond, for instance. The ground plan is very +simple. One wide street runs straight down to the +bridge, and another street crosses it at the top. +In the latter is to be found Marlow's chief literary +association, for here still stands the cottage where +Shelley lived. It is marked by a tablet, and is a +low, long building, creeper-covered, and is now +divided into several cottages. Here he wrote +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_107' name='Page_107'>[107]</a></span> +<i>The Revolt of Islam</i> and <i>Alastor, or the Spirit of +Solitude</i>. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i243" id="i243"></a> +<img src="images/i-243.jpg" width="550" height="435" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">GENERAL VIEW OF MARLOW +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Down by the water side the whole aspect of +Marlow is bright and open. It must be entirely +different from the older Marlow, when the wooden +bridge—which crossed the river lower down than +the present one—and the old church were still +in existence. At present, in the summer all is +gay and clean looking. The suspension bridge, +which is the best of the modern sort of bridges +from an artist's point of view, is rather low over +the water; standing on it one can look right down +on to the green lawn of the Compleat Angler +Hotel, and see the many-coloured muslins, the +white flannels, the gay cushions, the awnings, +and the sunshades, as if they were all a gigantic +flower bed. The red hotel itself is from this +point caught against the background of the +Quarry Woods. Opposite to it is the very green +strip of the churchyard coming right down to +the edge of the river, and only separated from +it by a low stone parapet: weeping willows fling +their green spray out over the water, and behind +is the church. It is undeniable that the materials +used in the church are distinctly ugly, but the +steeple goes some way towards redeeming it, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_108' name='Page_108'>[108]</a></span> +and if it can be seen silhouetted, so that the +materials are lost in dimness, and only the outlines +are apparent, it becomes at once more than +passable. Spires are not common in Thames-side +churches, which are far more often capped by +rather low battlemented towers. +</p> + +<p> +One of the glories of Marlow is its weir. It +runs in a great semicircular sweep below the +hotel; and, from a terrace there, one can look +right down into the swirling water; or by coming +up the backwater below in a boat, one can land +at the hotel without facing the lock at all, a great +advantage. The weir is in several planes, and +the extended flood makes a perpetual wash, +rising to a roar in winter, and dwindling to +the merest tinkle in summer. Marlow is distinctly +a summer place: its openness, its many trees, its +wide reach of water, and the splash of the weir +are all summer accompaniments; and in winter, +when the wind sweeps down from the south, +the unprotected side, and the water hisses and +bubbles in its struggle to get down to lower +levels, it is weird and melancholy. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i249" id="i249"></a> +<img src="images/i-249.jpg" width="550" height="451" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">QUARRY WOODS +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The lock channel is fringed by several islets, +and there is the usual mill, and a pretty wooden +foot-bridge. Several of the most graceful of +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_109' name='Page_109'>[109]</a></span> +our trees, the dainty silver birch, stand near the +mill. On some of the lower islands osiers grow, +and there are one or two neat boat-houses. Wide +meadows fringe the river below; and eastward—the +bridge lies due north and south—are the +famous Quarry Woods, held by many to be +superior even to the Clieveden Woods. In some +points they are, and not the least of these is +that they are traversed by several roads, while +those at Clieveden are kept strictly private. The +woods are composed almost wholly of beech, the +tree that loves the chalk, here so abundant, and +only a few patches of larch may be seen in +clumps among them. Beginning at the water's +edge, rising above the curious white castle with +harled walls called Quarry Hill, now to let, the +woods continue in a straight line inland, getting +further and further from the river as they go. +It is difficult to say at what season of the year +they are the most beautiful. In early spring, +before the buds burst, if looked at in the mass, +there is to be seen a kind of purple bloom made +by the myriad buds, which is not found in any +mixed woods. In spring the buds burst out into +that tender indescribable green, like nothing +else in the world, and the new-born leaves, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_110' name='Page_110'>[110]</a></span> +suspended from their dark and almost invisible +twigs, are for all the world like fronds of giant +maidenhair. In the autumn the whole ground is +one blaze of rich burnt-sienna, a carpet of leaves +laid so industriously that not a speck of the +bare brown earth appears; and from this rise +the stems smooth and straight, lichen-covered +every one, and thus transformed to brilliant +emerald. Where the light strikes through the +rapidly thinning branches, they have the very +glow of the stones themselves. It is an enchanted +wood, and at any moment a wizard might peep +out from behind one of those magic trunks. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i255" id="i255"></a> +<img src="images/i-255.jpg" width="550" height="437" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">BISHAM CHURCH +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The woods alone would be sufficient to give +Marlow a high rank among river places. But all +this is below the bridge, and above there is much +to see. Not far off, on the right bank of the +river, is Bisham, a tiny village with its church +and abbey, now a dwelling house. The whole +of Bisham is well worth lingering over. The +cottages stand along the road in straggling fashion, +old and new, and some of the gardens are bright +with homely, sweet-scented flowers, among which, +stocks and sweet-williams seem to be the +favourites in the summer. One tumble-down row, +rather off the road, is a mass of honeysuckle, and +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_111' name='Page_111'>[111]</a></span> +roses and ivy. The little church stands so near to +the margin of the river that not a dozen yards +separate its tower from the flood. A low moss-grown +stone parapet edges the churchyard; over +this elms dip their crooked boughs in a vain +endeavour to touch the ripples as they spring +playfully upward, driven by the wind. The little +church has a square stone tower, wonderfully +softened, so that it looks as if it must fray to +powder at a touch. The brick battlements are a +later addition, but the gentle river air has breathed +on them so that they tone in harmoniously. Some +of the windows are transition Norman. For ages +the little church has stood there looking out across +the water to the green flat meadows, and though +it has been rebuilt and altered, there is much of it +that is fairly ancient. The Hoby chapel was +built about 1600, by the disconsolate widow of +Sir Thomas Hoby, Ambassador to France; in it +are several fine tombs, and on that of Sir Thomas, +his lady, who was learned, as it was the fashion +for great ladies to be in her time, wrote long +inscriptions in Latin and Greek and English; the +last of which ends up with: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +"Give me, O God, a husband like unto Thomas, +</p> +<p> +Or else restore me to my husband Thomas!" +</p> +</div></div></div> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_112' name='Page_112'>[112]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +Eight years later she married again, so that +she had presumably found a husband "like unto +Thomas." The Hoby window in this chapel, with +its coat of arms, is especially interesting, and when +the morning sun streams through in tones of +purple and gold upon the worn stones, the effect +is striking. +</p> + +<p> +There are one or two good brasses in the +church, and a small monument to two children +who are traditionally said to have owned Queen +Elizabeth as mother! +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i261" id="i261"></a> +<img src="images/i-261.jpg" width="550" height="447" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">HURLEY BACKWATER +</p> +</div> + +<p> +From the reign of Edward VI. to 1780 the +Hoby family held the abbey, and then it was +bought by the ancestors of the present owner. It +is a splendid group of masonry, and stands very +effectively near the river. The tall tower, the oriel +windows, and the red tints against the fine mass of +greenery, make a very unusual picture. Bisham +at one time belonged to the Knights Templars, +who founded here a preceptory. But their Order +was dissolved in the reign of Edward II. In +1338 the Earl of Salisbury established here a +priory for Augustinian monks. This was twice +surrendered, having been re-established after the +first time. It is rather curious that the last prior, +being permitted by the tenets of the Reformed +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_113' name='Page_113'>[113]</a></span> +Church to marry, became the father of five +daughters, each of whom married a bishop; +while he himself was Bishop of St. Davids. +Poor Anne of Cleves was presented with the +abbey by her sometime husband the King, who, +however, died before the gift was confirmed. +She was allowed to retain it, and from her it +passed to the Hobys as aforesaid. The house has +therefore a long history, and much of the fabric is +very old. One of the oldest parts is the fine +entrance gateway, dating from the reign of King +Stephen. The great hall is supposed to have been +at one time the church of the abbey. As three +Earls of Salisbury, the great "King Maker" +Warwick, and Edward Plantagenet, unhappy +son of an unhappy father, were all buried in the +abbey church, there is every reason to suppose +that their bones lie beneath the pavement in the +hall. +</p> + +<p> +During Queen Mary's reign Princess Elizabeth +was a prisoner at Bisham under the charge of +Sir Thomas Hoby. No doubt she "took water" +frequently, and glided gently down with the stream; +for people were accustomed to use their river when +there were no roads to speak of. She must often +have gazed upon the Quarry Woods in all their +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_114' name='Page_114'>[114]</a></span> +flaming splendour of autumn, but the Marlow +she knew is so different from our Marlow we can +hardly otherwise picture it. Several alterations +were made at the abbey while Elizabeth was there, +such as the construction of a dais, and a large +window; small points, which show, however, that +she was treated with all due respect. And she +herself has left it on record that she received +kindness and courtesy from her enforced hosts. +These alterations were followed subsequently, in +her own reign, by the rebuilding of much of the +abbey, which was then made as we now see it. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i267" id="i267"></a> +<img src="images/i-267.jpg" width="550" height="437" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">BISHAM ABBEY +</p> +</div> + +<p> +It is inevitable that such a historic house should +have a tradition or two attached to it; and traditions +are not lacking. It is said that the ghost +of someone drowned in the river rises at times in +the form of a mist, and spreads all across the +channel, and woe be to anyone who attempts to +penetrate it. Another tale is that the house is +haunted by a certain Lady Hoby, who beat her +little boy to death because he could not write +without blots. She goes about wringing her hands +and trying to cleanse them from indelible inkstains. +The story has probably some foundation, for a +number of copybooks of the age of Elizabeth were +discovered behind one of the shutters during some +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_115' name='Page_115'>[115]</a></span> +later alterations, and one of these was deluged in +every line with blots. We all know that great +severity was exercised by parents with their +children at that time; even Lady Jane Grey had +to undergo "pinches, nips, and bobs," until she +thought herself "in hell," while with her parents, +and the story, if not the ghost, may safely be +accepted. +</p> + +<p> +Another tradition tells of an elopement. One +of the Earls of Salisbury, about to set out for the +Holy Land, sent for his daughter, who was a nun +at the convent of Little Marlow, to bid him +farewell. She came to him at Bisham, and while +there was persuaded by one of the squires to elope +with him. The pair crossed the water, but were +almost immediately captured. The girl was presumably +returned to her nunnery, where her +escapade would give her something to think of +during all the monotonous days that followed, and +the man was imprisoned at Bisham. In attempting +to make his escape he fell from a high window and +was badly injured. It is said that he afterwards +took the vows and became a monk. +</p> + +<p> +Temple Mill and House and Lock, which come +next to Bisham up the river, recall the possession +of the Knights Templars. This and Hurley Lock +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_116' name='Page_116'>[116]</a></span> +are the two nearest together of all on the river, and +experienced oarsmen frequently catch the second +one by making a dash on high days and holidays +when there is likely to be a crowd and consequent +delay. +</p> + +<p> +Interesting as Bisham is, it is rivalled by Hurley, +with its remains of the fine old mansion Lady Place. +</p> + +<p> +In order to reach the lock one passes under a +high wooden foot-bridge, "the marrow" to one +further up. On the lock island is a large red-brick +mill-house, near which stand one or two evergreens; +while on an apple tree in the lock-keeper's garden +is a fine growth of mistletoe, of which he is justly +proud. Mistletoe grows a good deal in the valley +of the Thames. It is not as a rule easily seen, +owing to the foliage of the trees on which it +grows; but in the winter, across the frozen +meadows, against the cold white sky, it may be +seen in great tufts that look like giant nests. +</p> + +<p> +It is supposed that the seeds of the mistletoe +in order to become fruitful must pass through the +body of the missel thrush, which is extremely +partial to them, and seems to be almost the only +bird that will touch them, hence its name; and +if, as is conjectured, the seeds cannot germinate +without this process, we have the phenomenon +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_117' name='Page_117'>[117]</a></span> +of an animal forming the "host" for a vegetable +parasite. +</p> + +<p> +Beyond the lock there is a sheltered channel +with the quaintest old-world flavour about it, a +flavour which grows yearly more and more difficult +to find as it melts away before the onward sweep +of the advertising age. A strip of green turf is +lined by an old brick wall with lichen and moss +growing on its coping, so that when the sun +catches it, it is like a ribbon of gold. Tall gate +piers, crowned by stone balls, frame a bit of the +excellently kept velvet lawns of Lady Place. There +are many of these old piers and balls, and nearly +all are overgrown with roses. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Look to the blowing rose about us—'Lo, +</p> +<p> +Laughing,' she says, 'into the world I blow, +</p> +<p> +At once the silken tassel of my purse +</p> +<p> +Tear, and its treasures on the garden throw.' +</p> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p class="rjust"> +—<i>Fitzgerald's Omar Khayyam.</i> +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +The splendid cedars, themselves a guarantee of +age that no modern Midas can summon to deck the +grounds of his new mansion; the tinkle of a cowbell +from the meadow near; and the Decorated +windows of Lady Place peering over the wall; all +add to the impression made by the whole. The +abbey was founded in 1086 for Benedictine monks. +It is interesting to note what a very great attraction +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_118' name='Page_118'>[118]</a></span> +water always held for monks; doubtless the necessity +for Friday fish was one reason for this; but +one likes to think that they also loved the river +for its own sake, and that they found in the +current the same sort of fascination which it +holds for us now. It may be also that it was +the constant gliding of the water, an emblem of +their own smoothly running lives, that drew them +so strongly: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Glide gently, thus for ever glide, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + O Thames! that other bards may see +</p> +<p> +As lovely visions by thy side +</p> +<p class="i1"> + As now, fair river! come to me. +</p> +<p> +O glide, fair stream, for ever so, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + Thy quiet soul on all bestowing, +</p> +<p> +Till all our minds for ever flow +</p> +<p class="i1"> + As thy deep waters now are flowing. +</p> + +<hr /> <!-- +<tb> + --> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p> +How calm! how still! the only sound, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + The dripping of the oar suspended! +</p> +<p> +The evening darkness gathers round +</p> +<p class="i1"> + By virtue's holiest powers attended. +</p> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p class="rjust"> +—<i>Wordsworth.</i> +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +Of this abbey not much remains. The crypt is +isolated, standing away from the remainder of the +buildings, and anyone may penetrate into it. The +old moat is excellently well preserved, and its circuit +shows that the abbey premises must have +extended over at least five acres of ground. The +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_119' name='Page_119'>[119]</a></span> +church, which is now the parish church, is an odd +little building. It has a single aisle, and the original +work is Norman, though it has been much modernised. +It forms part of a courtyard or quadrangle, +and faces a large, barn-like structure, which was the +refectory; in parts this is also Norman, and in it +are the Decorated windows. The materials used +in the construction of this refectory are most +curious—brick, chalk, flint, any sort of rubble, all +mixed together, and very solid. The stable is +built in the same way, and it is amazing that such +heterogeneous stuff should have stood the test of +time. Not far off also is a dove-house of a very +ancient pattern. The interior, with its cavernous +gloom and the numerous holes in the chalk for +the birds to nest in, is well worth looking into. +Indeed, the whole of this side of the buildings—away +from the river—is worth landing to see. It +is all within a very few yards, and once past the +modern house we find the little church with its +old-fashioned wooden tower, the green with its +well-grown elms, and the dove-house and stable, +which combine to form a very unusual scene +altogether. +</p> + +<p> +Sir Richard Lovelace, created Baron Lovelace +by Charles I., built Lady Place on the site of the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_120' name='Page_120'>[120]</a></span> +abbey in 1600. He was a relative of the Cavalier +poet of the same name. +</p> + +<p> +In Macaulay's history there is an account of +Lady Place, given graphically as he well knew +how. He is speaking of a descendant of the +founder, and he says: +</p> + +<p> +"His mansion, built by his ancestors out of the +spoils of the Spanish galleons from the Indies, rose +on the ruins of a house of Our Lady in that beautiful +valley, through which the Thames, not yet +defiled by the precincts of a great capital, nor +rising and falling with the flow and ebb of the +sea, rolls under woods of beech round the gentle +hills of Berkshire. Beneath the stately saloon, +adorned by Italian pencils, was a subterraneous +vault in which the bones of ancient monks had +sometimes been found." +</p> + +<p> +The third Lord Lovelace plotted for the +coming of William of Orange, and in the crypt +many a secret meeting was held to arrange the +details. It is said that the actual invitation which +brought the Dutchman over was signed in this +low, dark vault. +</p> + +<p> +Lady Place later belonged to a brother of +Admiral Kempenfelt, who went down with the +<i>Royal George</i>. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_121' name='Page_121'>[121]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +Certain places are frequently associated with +certain seasons of the year, and to my mind at +Hurley it is always summer. The smell of the +new mown hay on the long island between the +lock channel and part of the main stream, the +faint, delicate scent of dog-roses, and all the other +scents that load the summer air, seem to linger for +ever in this sheltered place. The backwater running +up on the other side of this island to the +weir is a very enticing one. Thirsty plants dip +their pretty heads to drink of the water that comes +swirling from the weir like frosted glass, and trees +of all sorts—ash, elm, horse-chestnut, and the +ubiquitous willows and poplars—lean over the +water in crooked elbows, giving a sweet shade +and a delicious coolness. The weir is a long one, +broken by islands into three parts. Another +long island is parallel to the first one. Indeed, +Hurley is a complicated place, and one that is ever +new. The swans certainly appreciate it. Drayton +says "Our flood's queen, Thames, with ships and +swans is crowned." I don't know about the ships; +nothing very large can get above Molesey Lock; +but as for the swans they abound, and especially +about here. +</p> + +<p> +The swans on the river belong to the Crown, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_122' name='Page_122'>[122]</a></span> +the Vintners' and the Dyers' Companies. The +grant of this privilege to the companies goes +back so far that it is lost in the mists of antiquity. +The Crown is far the largest holder, but as the +numbers of swans, of course, vary from year to +year, it is difficult to form an estimate of the total. +The Vintners, who come next, own perhaps 150. +They preserve only those that live below Marsh +Lock, with the exception of a few black ones, +which, contrary to expectation, have thriven very +well, and find a happy hunting ground about +Goring and Moulsford. The system of marking, +called swan-upping, has been modified of late years, +as a protest was made against it on the ground of +cruelty. Before that time the Vintners marked +their swans with a large V right across the upper +mandible, but now they give only two little nicks, +one on each side. From this comes the well-known +sign of old yards and public-houses, the Swan with +Two Necks, a corruption of nicks! The Dyers +have a nick on one side only. The origin and +variety of swan marks is a curious subject. The +process of swan-upping, or as it is often incorrectly +called, swan-hopping, gives an occasion for a +pleasant excursion, as it occurs about a fortnight +before the August Bank-Holiday, in the very +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_123' name='Page_123'>[123]</a></span> +height of the summer. Only the birds of the +current year are done, as the marks generally last +for life, and though they are accustomed to see too +many people to fear mankind, the handling naturally +frightens them. The swans, as a rule, find +their own living, grubbing about in the banks and +on the river bottom, and they are also occasionally +fed from house-boats and pleasure boats, but in +winter sometimes they are hard put to it, and provision +has to be made by their owners. +</p> + +<p> +A swan exercises on me something of the same +fascination that a camel does; though far be it +from me to compare the two in grace. They are +both full of character, and both preserve a strictly +critical attitude toward the human race. In the +case of the swan, nature has perhaps dealt unfairly +with him, for the curious little black cap, at the +junction of bill and head, technically known as the +"berry," gives him a fixed expression which he has +no power to alter, even if he felt beaming with +good humour. As it is, he is condemned to go +through life as if he momentarily expected an +attack upon his dignity and was prepared to repel +it. When the sun is shining and the swan dips +his long neck in the water and flings it upon his +shoulders, the large, glistening drops, running +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_124' name='Page_124'>[124]</a></span> +together on the oily surface, lie like a necklet of +diamonds in the hollow of his back. +</p> + +<p> +The irises and bur-reeds line the low banks +above the weir, and a line of short black poplars +give some shade. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +And on by many a level mead, +</p> +<p> +And shadowing bluffs that made the banks, +</p> +<p> +We glided, winding under ranks +</p> +<p> +Of iris and the golden reed. +</p> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p class="rjust"> +—<i>Tennyson.</i> +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +I have said that Hurley is a summer place, +and so it is; but there is one spring beauty +which those who know it only in summer +must for ever miss. On the slopes where the +heights on the northern side fold into one another +there is a little pillared temple, and about and +around it some lavish and generous person has +planted crocuses in big battalions, and they lie +there in the sun, royal in purple and gold, and +quite as rich in tint as those lights shining through +the stained glass window at Bisham we saw a +while ago. +</p> + +<p> +Above the next stretch of the river stands the +great modern palace of Danesfield, which is built +of chalk, one would imagine a singularly unlasting +material. Though hidden by trees from directly +beneath, from a distance it is very noticeable, and +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_125' name='Page_125'>[125]</a></span> +the white walls gleam out beneath the red tiles in +a way that cannot be overlooked. It is well thus +to have used local material, for local it is, as can +be seen by the great chalk cliffs that line the river +side; and the idea is daring and original. The +interior fittings are worthy of any palace, and no +pains and cost has been spared. It is a worthy +object to build a house which shall rank with those +bygone mansions on which their owners so lovingly +lavished their thought and time, and which have +also so frequently disappeared. The name arises +from the fact of there having been a Danish camp +in the neighbourhood, and the place is still pointed +out. After this there is rather a flat bit of meadow +land, fringed with sedge and many a gay plant, +growing gallantly in blue and mauve. We pass +two reedy islands opposite a line of little houses +called Frogmill, and then we see Medmenham +Abbey, which looks more imposing than it is, +being at the best a carefully composed ruin. However, +sometimes these compositions, if artistically +done, are worth having, and Medmenham has +memories behind it. It was once a real abbey, +founded for Cistercian monks in 1200. But after +the Dissolution the buildings fell into ruin. Later +they became the headquarters of the daring and +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_126' name='Page_126'>[126]</a></span> +impious club known as the "Hell Fire" Club, of +which one of the leading spirits was Sir Francis +Dashwood, afterwards Lord Le Despencer, the +same who built the church at West Wycombe, +only a few miles away as the crow flies. This is +a church where the pulpit and reading desk +are armchairs; the latter stands on a chest of +drawers, which, being pulled out, serve as steps. +On the tower of the church an immense ball like +a gigantic football is tethered by chains. This can +contain twelve people, and the mad lord held meetings +here with his friends. The motto of his club +was <i>Fay ce que voudras</i>, and the members went as +near to devil worship as they dared. Once while +they were at Medmenham someone let a huge ape +down the chimney, when the revellers, worked up +to a frantic pitch of excitement and more than half +drunk, thought that his Satanic majesty had paid +them a visit in good earnest. From such orgies +Medmenham has long been free, and it is now a +respectable dwelling house with a nice bit of +cloister over which ivy hangs in folds, and to which +the word "picturesque" may quite fitly be applied. +</p> + +<p> +There is a ferry over the river at Medmenham, +and, not far off, the old Abbey Hotel, in which +numbers of artists stay. Up the green lane is a +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_127' name='Page_127'>[127]</a></span> +curious old house, once the residence of Sir John +Borlase, whom Charles II. used to visit, riding +here on horseback, accompanied frequently, so it is +said, by Nell Gwynne. Standing by the high +road, which here is not half a mile from the river, +is a quaint little church with wooden porch and +shady evergreens, a very model of what a tiny +village church should be. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_128' name='Page_128'>[128]</a></span> +</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER XII<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +BOULTER'S LOCK AND MAIDENHEAD +</span></h2> + +<div class="figleft"><a name="i282" id="i282"></a> +<img src="images/i-282.jpg" width="332" height="413" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p> +Human beings +are by nature +sociable; and to +state that a crowd +of well-dressed +people will be at +a certain point +of the river at a +particular date, is +to ensure that +everyone else who +possibly can will +be there too—only +better dressed. It +would seem to the ordinary ungregarious bachelor +that Boulter's Lock, the Sunday after Ascot, would +be a place to avoid, for there will be the necessity of +waiting for hours on a river—grilling in the sun if +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_129' name='Page_129'>[129]</a></span> +the day be fine, or shivering if the day be cloudy; +for the English climate never lacks the spice of +uncertainty, and at this season of the year it is more +capricious than usual. The middle of June is +proverbially a time of roses, but it is just as likely +to be a time for chills, at least so says the +pessimist. To the optimist and he who "loves his +fellow-men," Boulter's Lock, on this one day of the +year, reveals itself to memory as a day of delight +and flashing colour; he has only to shut his eyes +to recall a scene as brilliant as a flower garden. +Here, close to him, lies a long, flat-bottomed punt, +with gay cushions on which lean two fair girls, +their faces toned to a pink glow by the sun's rays +penetrating gently through their rose-pink sunshades. +Their large flapping hats are tied under +their chins with huge bows of ribbon as pink as +their cheeks; their soft, white muslin dresses lie in +folds and frills and heaps bewildering to contemplate; +they are exactly, exasperatingly, absurdly +alike. "How can a woman be such an idiot as +to duplicate her charms?" the onlooker exclaims +to himself; but he looks again. Dark eyes dancing +as merrily as the ripples on the breeze-stirred +water; chatter and laugh; and babble as soft and +meaningless as the gurgle of the little tributary +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_130' name='Page_130'>[130]</a></span> +stream; textures of fabric as delicate as the flowers +peeping over the grey stone walls from the lock-keeper's +garden above; dainty arms bare to the +elbow; Japanese umbrellas jewelled in the sunlight; +striped awnings, as gay as Joseph's coat, flapping +softly; the long low outlines of craft of every kind, +skiff and dingey and canoe, from the smoothly +gliding little electric launch to the heavy clinker-built +boat on hire for its tenth season; these items +make up a scene quite unlike anything else. For +half a mile below the lock you could step across a +solid bridge of boats over half the river. Some +years ago, the homely serge and sailor straw-hat +were considered the proper river costume; now, the +straw is worn only by men, whose severe flannels +show little alteration from year to year, for men +are much more conservative in sartorial matters +than women. And every tantalising muslin, lace, +and flower-decked hat is considered suitable for a +woman on the river. The more fantastic and +enormous, the more gauzy and lace-trimmed, the +better. And, as her grandmother did, the young girl +dresses in the thinnest of muslins and lawns, wears +an open neck in the day time, and elbow sleeves. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i285" id="i285"></a> +<img src="images/i-285.jpg" width="444" height="550" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">BOULTER'S LOCK, ASCOT SUNDAY +</p> +</div> + +<p> +In pushing forward between the open lock-gates +into the lock, a slender canoe fits into an almost +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_131' name='Page_131'>[131]</a></span> +impossible space between the electric launch and +the punt. A heavily weighted boatload, where +four elderly women are rowed by one heated man, +falls foul of its neighbour and has to be righted. +The chatter is silenced for a moment, but rises +again when the craft are fitted, like the pieces in +an old fashioned puzzle, inside the green and slimy +walls, which throw a deep shadow on one side. +Then the gates are shut, and a wash and gurgle +of water begins, delightfully cool to hear. A +nervous girl gives a little shriek and jumps so that +every boat is set a-rocking, as all are touching. +Others laugh. It is impossible to upset, for there +is no room. The whole gently swaying mass rises +on the breast of the rising water up out of the +shadow into the sunlight; into the view of the +waiting crowds on the tow-path. Colours flash out +once more; an excited little dog rushes yapping +from stem to stern of his boat, and finally, with a +vigorous jump, lands on the lock-keeper's garden, +where there is a profusion of sweet old-fashioned +flowers, and such roses as grow nowhere but by +the river-side. Then, to the accompaniment of +the dog's frantic barks, the massive gates creak +backward on their hinges, and we ride forward +into the wide expanse of the sparkling river. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_132' name='Page_132'>[132]</a></span> +Only a few boats await the opening of the lock +here, for, at this time of day, more are going +up than coming down. But behind, away below +the lock, a chaotic flotilla has once more collected, +and may have to wait for hours, for it is +rather like the process of ladling the river up in a +tablespoon. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i291" id="i291"></a> +<img src="images/i-291.jpg" width="441" height="550" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">BELOW BOULTER'S LOCK +</p> +</div> + +<p> +This reach at Maidenhead, is one of the most +popular on the river. On each side of the wide +stone bridge half a mile below the lock, Taplow and +Maidenhead face one another. But though popular +and easy of access, being on the Great Western +Railway, which runs quick trains at frequent +intervals, both stations are a little distance from +the river. The name Maidenhead is derived from +Maiden-hithe, or wharf, as a large wharf for wood +at one time stood near the bridge. The bridge +itself, though a modern fabric, is of ancient lineage, +for we know that in 1352 a guild was formed for +the purpose of keeping it in repair. It may be +remembered that bridges at that time were considered +works of charity, and competed with masses +and alms as a means of doing good posthumously. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Another blissed besines is brigges to make, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + That there the pepul may not passe [<i>die</i>] after great showres, +</p> +<p> +Dole it is to drawe a deed body oute of a lake, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + That was fulled in a fount-stoon, and a felow of ours. +</p> +</div></div></div> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_133' name='Page_133'>[133]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +And in <i>Piers Plowman</i>: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Therewith to build hospitals, helping the sick, +</p> +<p> +Or roads that are rotten full rightly repair, +</p> +<p> +Or bridges, when broken, to build up anew. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i297" id="i297"></a> +<img src="images/i-297.jpg" width="550" height="438" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">MAIDENHEAD +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The main road between London and Bath, a +well-known coaching road, runs this way, and a +very good road it is. The railway bridge crosses +below the road, but it is of brick with wide arches, +and is by no means unsightly. Between the two +is the River-side club, where a band plays on the +smooth green lawn in the season, and the smartest +of smart costumes are the rule. Near here also +is Bond's boat-house and a willow-grown islet. +There are numbers of steps and railings and +landing stages, all painted white, and these give +a certain lightness to the scene. Close by the +bridge are several hotels, of which the oldest +established is Skindle's, low-lying and creeper-covered, +on the Taplow side. Boats for hire line the +banks everywhere, for many cater for the wants of +the butterfly visitor, out of whom enough must +be taken in the season to carry the establishments +on through the winter; and the river visitor is +essentially a butterfly. Few know the charms of +the Thames in the winter, when, in an east and west +stretch, the glowing red ball of the sun sinks +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_134' name='Page_134'>[134]</a></span> +behind dun banks of mist; when the trees are +leafless, and the skeleton branches are outlined +against a pale clear sky; when a touch of frost is +in the air, and the river glides so stilly that it +almost seems asleep. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +A bitter day, that early sank +</p> +<p> +Behind a purple frosty bank +</p> +<p> +Of vapour, leaving night forlorn. +</p> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p class="rjust"> +—<i>Tennyson.</i> +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +The visitor goes to the river in the summer +because of its coolness, and though the coolness is +ofttimes delusive, being in appearance rather than +reality, lying in the sight of the sparkles and the +sound of the ripples, yet it is a fine make-believe. +Such river-side hotels as cater for the season are +content to lie dormant all the chill long winter, +until, with the breath of early spring, the celandines +raise their polished golden faces and the lords and +ladies stud the hedgerows. Then a few adventurous +beings come down on the first fine days, like the +early swallows, a portent that summer is at hand; +and these lucky people have the river largely to +themselves, and do not find lovers in every +attractive backwater; and if they have to row to +keep themselves warm, they gain an increase of +vigour that no burning summer sun can give. +</p> + +<p> +The view from Maidenhead Bridge northwards—for +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_135' name='Page_135'>[135]</a></span> +here the river runs due south—is spoilt by the +gasometers which rise over the willow-covered +islets. But once past Boulter's Lock, the scenery +improves with every hundred yards. Close by +the lock itself is Ray Mead Hotel, where the +deep carmine-tinted geraniums grow in quantities. +Sometimes as many as three hundred people are +supplied with tea at the hotel on a fine summer +afternoon, while over a thousand pass through the +lock. Above Boulter's is a secluded backwater +formed by the stream of a mill, and this is one of +the pleasantest retreats in the neighbourhood. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +... In my boat I lie +</p> +<p> +Moor'd to the cool bank in the summer heats. +</p> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p class="rjust"> +—<i>Matthew Arnold.</i> +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +Above the river, on the east, rise the cliff-like +heights of Clieveden, wooded to their summits, and +seen magnificently by reason of the curve at the +end of the reach, which gives their full sweep at +one glance. The cliff rises to a height of 140 feet, +but the thickness of the trees, and their own height +towering above, make it look much higher. The +trees are of all kinds, oak and beech, chestnut and +ash, and many a dark evergreen; while here and +there a Lombardy poplar shoots up like a straight +line, and the wild clematis throws its shawls of +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_136' name='Page_136'>[136]</a></span> +greenery from tree to tree, giving the whole the +appearance of a tropical forest. Seen in early +spring, when the tender green of the beeches and +the bursting gummy buds of the horse-chestnut are +shedding a veil over the fretwork of twig and +bough, they are glorious enough; but in autumn, +when orange and russet break out in all directions, +they are, perhaps, more imposing. River people +do not, as a rule, see them at their best, for before +that touch of frost has come which sends a flame +of crimson over the maples, and heightens the +orange of the beeches, the fairweather boatsman +has fled to his fireside. +</p> + +<p> +At one point we catch a glimpse of Clieveden +itself, standing high and facing downstream. Evelyn +says in his diary: +</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p> +I went to Clifden, that stupendous natural rock, wood, +and prospect, of the Duke of Buckingham's, buildings of +extraordinary expense.... The stande, somewhat like +Frascati as to its front, and on the platform is a circular +view to the utmost verge of the horizon, which, with the +serpenting of the Thames, is admirable.... But the +land all about wretchedly barren, and producing nothing +but fern. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The taste of those days differed from ours; now +we should prefer to see an expanse of ferns to a +field of potatoes. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_137' name='Page_137'>[137]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +The first great mansion here was built by +"Steenie," the Duke of Buckingham, King Charles's +favourite. He was a villain, even for a time of +slack morals, and the chief association connected +with his house is that he brought here a comrade +in every way suited to him, in the person of the +Countess of Shrewsbury, who stood by, dressed as +a page, holding his horse, while he killed her +husband in a duel. The house was twice burnt +down; the present one was built about the middle +of the nineteenth century, and belongs to Mr. +Astor. A pleasanter memory is that of the poet +Thomson, whose masque <i>Alfred</i> was acted here in +1740, on the birthday of Princess Augusta. This +contained, as a kernel, the song "Rule Britannia," +destined to survive long after its husk had been +forgotten. +</p> + +<p> +Opposite Clieveden the ground is low lying, +and, to use Evelyn's word, the river "serpents" a +good deal. There are several islands, on one of +which, called Formosa, there is a house. There +are several side-streams crossed by footbridges, +and in one of these is the lock. The main stream +continues in a great sweep, and is guarded by two +weirs. The fishing here is very popular, and though +it belongs to Lord Boston, permission to fish may +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_138' name='Page_138'>[138]</a></span> +be obtained by writing beforehand. Hedsor Church +stands well on high ground near; and with its +bosky foliage and many islets, the river here is not +a bad place in which to idle away many an hour. +</p> + +<p> +The hotel at Cookham is right down on the +water's edge, and from its lawn a charming view is +gained of the main stream breaking into its many +channels, with the wooded island of Formosa in +the middle. All about here is a favourite place +for anglers, and many a punt is moored across +stream with its ridiculous chairs on which sit two +or three solemn elderly men, content to sit, and +sit, and watch the dull brown water rush beneath +for hour after hour, without once raising their eyes +to see the green of the witching trees, or listening +to the hum of the joyous life around them. To an +onlooker they appear to be quaffing the flattest +part of the sport, having missed all its head and +froth. How different the punt fisher's day from +that of the man who starts off up-stream, through +many a low-lying willow-fringed meadow, who +reaches over to land his fly in the deep brown pool +into which the stream falls. Punt fishing, like loch +fishing, must have its fascinations, or few would do +it, but it lacks all the sparkle expressed in such a +song as that of Walton's, for instance: +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_139' name='Page_139'>[139]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +In a morning, up we rise, +</p> +<p class="i2"> + Ere Aurora's peeping, +</p> +<p> +Drink a cup to wash our eyes, +</p> +<p> +Leave the sluggard sleeping. +</p> +<p class="i2"> + Then we go +</p> +<p class="i2"> + To and fro, +</p> +<p class="i2"> + With our knacks +</p> +<p class="i2"> + At our backs, +</p> +<p class="i2"> + To such streams +</p> +<p class="i2"> + As the Thames, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + If we have the leisure. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +The less said about the rhyme the better, but +this has the swing and lilt of the true feeling! +</p> + +<p> +From Cookham Bridge we can see the gaily +covered lawn of the hotel, where a perfect flotilla +of craft is anchored, while the owners have tea or +more cooling drinks; and turning we can view the +wide expanse of Bourne End, where the races of +the Upper Thames Sailing Club are held all the +summer, and where, about the end of June, when +the great regatta is held, the surface of the water +is dotted with swan-like boats. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_140' name='Page_140'>[140]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i306" id="i306"></a> +<img src="images/i-306.jpg" width="550" height="392" alt="" /> + +</div> + +<h2> +CHAPTER XIII<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +WINDSOR AND ETON +</span></h2> + +<p> +However disappointed a foreign monarch, on his +first visit to England, may be with the drab +hideousness of Buckingham Palace, he cannot +but confess that in Windsor Castle we have a +dwelling meet even for the King of England. +Both architecturally and by reason of its age, +Windsor is a truly royal palace. Its history is +linked with that of our kings until its very +stones proclaim the annals of our country. Ages +ago, Edward the Confessor took a fancy to this +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_141' name='Page_141'>[141]</a></span> +quiet place by the Thames, and he gave it to +his beloved monks of Westminster. William I. +saw what a splendid shooting lodge might be +built in the midst of the wild and open country +abounding in game, and after having first one +shooting lodge and then another in the neighbourhood, +he acquired the high outstanding boss or +knob of chalk on which the castle stands, and +built thereon a residence for himself. His son, +Henry I., altered it greatly; and succeeding kings +and queens have rarely been content to leave it +without an alteration or addition as their mark. +Windsor has ever been a favourite with royalty. +It has held its own while Westminster and Whitehall +and Greenwich utterly vanished; while the +Tower and Hampton have ceased to be royal +dwellings; and it is still pre-eminently the royal +castle. Certain kings, such as William III., have +sometimes preferred other places for a while, +but Windsor has satisfied alike the dignity of +Edward III. and the homeliness of George III. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i309" id="i309"></a> +<img src="images/i-309.jpg" width="550" height="439" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">WINDSOR CASTLE +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The situation is superb. The castle stands high +above the river, which here curves, so as to show +off its irregular outlines to the greatest advantage. +They rise in a series of rough levels to the +mighty Round Tower, the crown of the whole, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_142' name='Page_142'>[142]</a></span> +which is massive enough to dominate, but not +sufficiently high to dwarf the rest. Turrets, battlements, +and smaller towers serve only to emphasize +the dignity of this central keep. It was built in +the time of Edward III., and strangely enough, +though altered and heightened in that worst period +of architectural taste, the reign of George IV., +it was not spoiled; and even to a child proclaims +something of the grandeur one naturally associates +with it. +</p> + +<p> +As seen from the bridge the whole of the north +range can be followed by the eye, from the Prince +of Wales's Tower, facing the east terrace, to the +Curfew Tower on the west. Intermediately there +are the State apartments, and the Norman gateway, +over which is the Library. These overlook the +north terrace—open to the public at all hours +from sunrise to sunset. +</p> + +<p> +The view from this terrace is very fine, stretching +away to Maidenhead, and at times, on days of +cloud and shadow, the light-coloured walls of +Clieveden stand out suddenly, caught by a passing +gleam, amid a forest of green trees. We can +look down on the whole of Eton—the church +with its tall spire; the buttresses and pinnacles of +the chapel standing up white against an indigo +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_143' name='Page_143'>[143]</a></span> +background; the red and blue roofs piled this way +and that; and the green playing fields girdled by +the swift river. It was on the castle terrace that +George III. used to walk with all his family, +except the erring eldest, when he took those tiresome +parades which Miss Burney describes with +so much life-like detail. +</p> + +<p> +The Chapel cannot be seen from the river, as +it is in the lower ward behind the canons' houses, +and is not sufficiently high to rise well above them. +</p> + +<p> +It would be of little use to attempt to tell +stories of Windsor, for its history belongs to the +history of England and not to the river Thames; +yet there is one memory which may be noted. +Young James Stuart of Scotland had been sent +by his father, Robert III., to France after the +death of his elder brother, the wild Duke of +Rothesay, nominally for education, but in reality +for safe keeping. The boy was captured by +the English while on the sea and brought as +a prisoner to England. He was then only about +ten or twelve years old. He was treated with +every consideration, and educated so worthily +that he became afterwards one of the best of +all the Scottish kings. He was at first in the +Tower and elsewhere, but when he reached young +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_144' name='Page_144'>[144]</a></span> +manhood he was brought to Windsor, where he +had apartments allotted to him. Though he was +allowed to follow the chase and pursue the amusements +of his time, he was yet a prisoner, and +the sad opening stanzas of his great poem, the +<i>Kingis Quair</i>, speak the melancholy he often +felt. This poem was composed at Windsor, and +its pensiveness changes after the day when, looking +down from his window in the castle, the +youth saw walking in the garden Joan Beaufort, +whom he afterwards made his wife: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +And therewith cast I down mine eye again, +</p> +<p> +Where as I saw, walking under the tower, +</p> +<p> +The fairest or the freshest young flower +</p> +<p> +That ever I saw methought before that hour. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +His visions further on in the poem must have +been coloured more or less by what he daily saw +before him, and we may credit to the Thames the +flowing lines: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Where in a lusty plain took I my way, +</p> +<p> +Along a river pleasant to behold, +</p> +<p> +Embroidered all with fresh flowers gay, +</p> +<p> +Where, through the gravel, bright as any gold, +</p> +<p> +The crystal water ran so clear and cold. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i317" id="i317"></a> +<img src="images/i-317.jpg" width="433" height="550" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">WINDSOR +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Windsor should be seen in sunshine and heat, +when black shadows set off the towering walls, +and all the uneven houses and crooked streets +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_145' name='Page_145'>[145]</a></span> +are pieced in light and shade. Then it is exceedingly +like a foreign town in its details; and many +people who travel miles to admire Chinon, and +others of its class, would do well to visit Windsor +first. +</p> + +<p> +The town has always been subordinate to the +castle, for it was the castle that caused the town +to spring up, as there were always numbers of +artificers, attendants, grooms, workmen and others +needed for the service of the Court. In the +fourteenth century it was reckoned that the +Court employed an army of 20,000 of such people. +These would all have to be housed somehow, +and the nearer the protection of the castle the +better; hence the town on the slopes. +</p> + +<p> +The Home Park, in which is the mausoleum, +borders the river. It is separated by a road from +the Great Park, made for hunting. Pope's poem +on "Windsor Forest" is not particularly beautiful; +perhaps the best descriptive lines are those that +follow: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +There, interspersed in lawns and opening glades, +</p> +<p> +Thin trees arise that shun each others shades: +</p> +<p> +Here in full light the russet plains extend; +</p> +<p> +There, wrapt in clouds, the bluish hills ascend. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +Windsor Park is introduced by Shakspeare as +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_146' name='Page_146'>[146]</a></span> +the scene of some of Falstaff's escapades, an +honour shared by the neat, bright village of +Datchet, opposite. Datchet is a model village +grouped about a green, and the houses are softened +by all the usual creepers and bushes: we see +roses, jasmine, laurustinus, magnolia, and ampelopsis +at every turn. Above and below Datchet +this clean neatness continues. +</p> + +<p> +The Victoria and Albert bridges are severe, +and the weir and the great bow of the channel, +which is cut by the lock-stream, have no particular +characteristics. The whole neighbourhood has +rather the air of holding itself on its best behaviour, +as though royalty might any moment appear +upon the scene. As might be expected, the +scenery is rather like the poetry it inspired. Here +is Sir John Denham's effusion about Coopers +Hill: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +My eye, descending from the hill, surveys +</p> +<p> +Where Thames, among the wanton valleys strays: +</p> +<p> +Thames, the most loved of all the Ocean's sons +</p> +<p> +By his old sire, to his embraces runs: +</p> +<p class="i1"> + Hasting to pay his tribute to the sea, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + Like mortal life to meet eternity. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +There is a pretty reach below Old Windsor, +where willows and poplars are massed effectively. +It is in places like this, where they grow +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_147' name='Page_147'>[147]</a></span> +abundantly, that the beautiful tawny colour +which willows assume in the spring, just before +bursting into leaf, can be best seen. +</p> + +<p> +The Bells of Ouseley stands at a bend, and with +its tinted walls and the old elm tree growing close +to the entrance, is a typical old-English Inn. The +road to Staines passes by the water's edge, and the +guide-post is less reticent than guide-posts are +wont to be, for it tells us this is the "Way to +Staines, except at high-water." +</p> + +<p> +As we pass softly back up the current to Eton, +we think how often in this reach the incomparable +Izaak and his friend Sir Henry Wotton fished +together. +</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p> +I sat down under a willow tree by the water side ... +for I could there sit quietly, and, looking on the water, see +some fishes sport themselves in the silver streams, others +leaping at flies of several shapes and colours; ... +looking down the meadows, could see here a boy gathering +lilies and ladysmocks, and there a girl cropping culverkeys +and cowslips. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Wotton built a fishing box a mile below the +college, from which he and Walton often sallied +forth during the fifteen years he was provost of +Eton, and to his rod many a "jealous trout that +low did lie, rose at a well dissembled fly," as he +himself has left on record. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_148' name='Page_148'>[148]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Ye distant spires, ye antique towers +</p> +<p class="i1"> + That crown the wat'ry glade, +</p> +<p> +Where grateful Science still adores +</p> +<p class="i1"> + Her Henry's holy shade; +</p> +<p> +And ye, that from the stately brow +</p> +<p> +Of Windsor's heights th' expanse below +</p> +<p> +Of grove, of lawn, of mead survey, +</p> +<p> +Whose turf, whose shade, whose flowers among +</p> +<p> +Wanders the hoary Thames along +</p> +<p class="i1"> + His silver-winding way. +</p> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p class="rjust"> +—<i>Gray.</i> +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +In rounding the great sweep of the river below +the London and South Western railway bridge, +we catch at once the pinnacles of Eton chapel—most +glorious of chapels—and see the green playing +fields. +</p> + +<p> +The long tree-covered island of Romney, on +one side of which lies the lock, ends in a terrible +"snout," strengthened by "camp-shedding." This +point is locally known as the "Cobbler," and is a +source of peril to many an inexperienced boatman. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i325" id="i325"></a> +<img src="images/i-325.jpg" width="437" height="550" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">ETON CHAPEL FROM THE FIELDS +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The bridge over the river can, unfortunately, +hardly be called a good feature in the landscape—it +is as ugly as a railway bridge! Just above it +is a row of boat-houses, and then follows the +Brocas, the famous meadow. Above the bridge +is a tiny islet which serves as an objective in the +Fourth of June procession of boats. The boats +come down and round the island, and once more +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_149' name='Page_149'>[149]</a></span> +returning, pass under the bridge to the lock, +having made a sort of spiral. Nearly all the +Eton races are rowed in this strip of the river, +though, of course, Henley Regatta is the greatest +event in the boating calendar. A small string of +islands faces some little public gardens, and away +northward winds the Great Western Railway +on a series of small arches which carry it over +the marshy ground, no doubt at one time under +water. +</p> + +<p> +Beyond the line is a small backwater known as +Cuckoo weir, the bathing place of the lower boys. +Here the swimming trials take place, when a set +of trembling pink youngsters stand in a punt +ready to take a graceful header, or, from sheer +nervousness, to fall with an ugly flop smack upon +the water and be disqualified for the time being! +</p> + +<p> +The bathing place of the upper boys, called +by the dignified title of Athens, is further up in +the main river, near the curious island on which +is Windsor racecourse. The river winds giddily +in and out between the end of this island and +Upper and Lower Hope, which lie between it +and Cuckoo weir. A mill stands at the end of the +long narrow stream that separates the racecourse +from the mainland, and on the other side of the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_150' name='Page_150'>[150]</a></span> +island is Boveney Lock. The quaint old chapel +stands amid trees further up. +</p> + +<p> +Above the island was once Surley Hall, a +favourite resort of the Etonians, but it is now +pulled down, and Monkey Island is the place to +go to on half-holidays. Monkey Island is a good +way up, and is the third of a row of islands. The +little one below it, called Queen's ait, now belongs +to the Eton boys, who have built a small cottage +on it. Monkey Island itself is a curious and +attractive place, except when the launches come +up from Windsor on Saturdays, bringing hundreds +of people, who sit about at little tables on the +green sward under the famous walnut trees, and +call for refreshments. There is a large pavilion, +part boat-house, which belongs to the Eton boys, +where they can get tea served without mingling +with the townspeople. Near it is a quaint little +temple. This, as well as the house, now the hotel, +was built by the third Duke of Marlborough, a +man of curious taste. The hall in the hotel is +painted all round with the figures of monkeys +engaged in various sports and pastimes. There is +a broad frieze which appears to have been executed +in water colours on plaster; the ceiling is likewise +painted, but in rather a different style. The +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_151' name='Page_151'>[151]</a></span> +monkeys are a good size, and attract a vast crowd +of visitors. The pretty verandah round the hotel +redeems its appearance externally. Inside it has +at once all the attractions and disadvantages of +an old house—low ceilings, very small rooms; but +on the other hand there are windings and twistings, +crooked passages and odd corners, that delight +the heart of those to whom machine-made houses +are an abomination. The duke's bedroom is shown, +and is as queerly shaped a room as ever mortal +man conceived. Monkey Island is being embanked +with the precious gravel dredged from +the bed of the Thames, and, though no doubt +a necessary precaution, as the river insidiously +breaks off what it can, the operation is not a +beautiful one. The island is very proud of its +walnut trees, and well it may be, for they are +a great change after the ubiquitous willows, and +their gnarled stems and fine shady leaves are just +the right element in such a scene as a gay lawn +covered with summer folk in summer dresses. +</p> + +<p> +From Monkey Island the little church tower +of Bray can be seen, but before reaching it Bray +Lock has to be negotiated, and here are a long +sinuous osier-covered ait and a mill, making, as +usual, a convenient backwater. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_152' name='Page_152'>[152]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +Bray is truly a charming place, and one could +find it in one's heart to forgive the vicar who +turned his coat to keep his vicarage. The real +man lived in the reign of Henry VIII. and +his successors, and changed his religious practices +in conformity with those of the sovereign for +the time being, turning from Roman Catholic to +Reformed Church, Reformed to Roman Catholic, +and back once more with ease and pliability. In +the ballad he is represented as living in the seventeenth +century, and his gymnastics refer to the +varying fortunes of the house of Stuart, and the +Romish tendencies of the later kings of that +house. Fuller, with his usual quaintness, remarks +of him that he had seen some martyrs burnt +at Windsor and "found this fire too hot for +his tender temper." But one would fain believe +it was not altogether cowardice, but also a love +of his delightful village, that made him so amenable. +The little flint and stone tower of the +church peeps at the river over a splendid assortment +of evergreens—laurels, holm oaks, yews, +and spruce firs being particularly noticeable—and +the old vicarage with this growth of sheltering +trees and its smooth lawn right down to the +water's edge, is certainly a place that one would +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_153' name='Page_153'>[153]</a></span> +think twice about before leaving. The village +itself is so irregular that, tiny as it is, one may +get lost in it. There are endless vistas of gable +ends, of bowed timbers, of pretty porches, and +worn brick softly embraced by vine or wistaria; +yet even in Bray, new red brick is making its +way. One of the most interesting features is the +almshouses, and if one lands by the hotel, they +are reached after only a few minutes' walk. The +exterior is very quaint; large cylindrical yews and +hollies, like roly-poly puddings on end, stand up in +stubborn rank before the worn red brick. The +statue of the founder, of an immaculate whiteness, +with the glitter of gilt in the coat-of-arms below, +just lightens the effect. Through an ancient arch +one passes to the quadrangle, which is filled with +tiny flower-beds, and surrounded by a low range +of red brick with dormer windows. At the +other side is the chapel covered with ivy, and this, +with the little diamond panes and the brightness +of the variegated flower-beds, is home-like and cosy. +Yet it must be confessed that in his well-known +picture, "The Harbour of Refuge," admittedly +taken from Bray, Frederick Walker, the artist, has +greatly improved the scene with artistic licence. +The raised terrace at the side, the greater width +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_154' name='Page_154'>[154]</a></span> +of the quadrangle, the smooth green lawn and +sheltering central tree in his picture, are far more +harmonious and beautiful than the reality. +</p> + +<p> +Bray is a very popular haunt with artists and +boating people. In summer the George Hotel +cannot take in all its visitors, and beds are hired +all over the village, consequently, anyone wishing +to spend some weeks in Bray must make arrangements +well beforehand. This is not to be +wondered at, because, as well as its own attractions, +it is within easy reach of Maidenhead and the +delights beyond, and its unspoilt quaintness makes +it ideal to stay in. Long may Bray remain as +it is, unaltered and a tiny village. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_155' name='Page_155'>[155]</a></span> +</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER XIV<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +MAGNA CHARTA +</span></h2> + +<div class="figright"><a name="i333" id="i333"></a> +<img src="images/i-333.jpg" width="325" height="402" alt="" /> + +</div> +<p> +Magna Charta +Island is something +of a shock +at first sight; it +is so exceptionally +well cared for and +so pretty. One +pictures a tangle +of wild trees, a +mass of rushes, +osiers perhaps, and +general grimness. +The osiers are +confined to a fraction +of the island; on the remainder is a prettily-built +house of a fair size, with the very best sort of +river-lawn, on which grow various fine and regular +trees. Many are the evergreens; and the bosky +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_156' name='Page_156'>[156]</a></span> +holm oak, the dignified stone pine, and the +flourishing walnut, seen in conjunction with the +beautifully kept turf and bright flower-beds, are +altogether unlike one's conception of the place. +</p> + +<p> +It is true that, though the island has the name +of it, it is now generally supposed that the actual +signing of our great charter of liberties took place +on the mainland. John had delayed, and played +false, and postponed the issue for long, but he +knew now that all was up, and he was cornered. +A truce was declared, and from Windsor he agreed +to meet his barons and "concede to them the laws +and liberties which they asked." The fifteenth of +June was fixed for the day, and Runney Mead, or +Runnymede, for the place. With the barons were +almost the whole of the English nobility; with +John, certain ecclesiastical powers, namely, the +Archbishops of Canterbury and Dublin, and seven +bishops, as well as some earls and barons. It is +quite obvious that the barons could have had no +idea of the vast consequences of their act. They +would have been astonished could they have foreseen +that it would become the basis of the English +constitution. They merely wanted to bind down +a particular king who had outraged their liberties. +</p> + +<p> +One can hardly imagine a better place for the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_157' name='Page_157'>[157]</a></span> +assembling of a great body of armed men than +these meadows by the river. The land is as flat +as a platform, and sheltered to the south by the +heights of Cooper's Hill, which rise like the tiers +in an amphitheatre. The Long Mead, with the +exception of the road now running across it, must +have looked very much then as it does now. Runney +Mead is more altered, because it is shut in by hedges. +We know not if the day were fine or overcast when +the great charter was signed; but when the deed was +done John, in a rage, retired to Windsor. The +barons remained on the meads for about ten days, +during which the place must have been like a fair. +</p> + +<p> +It is very hot on this part of the river on a +sunny day. The trees growing on the banks are +all on the north side, and consequently give little +shade. They border Ankerwyke Park, and grow +so close to the water that many of their roots are +in it. The swallows dart to and fro, and clouds of +gnats dance like thistledown in the air. Near the +banks grow many flowers. The spotted knotweed +or persicaria, with its bright flesh-coloured flowers, +is sometimes in water, sometimes on the land; +the common forget-me-not can be seen peeping +up with its bright blue eyes; the pink willow herb +flourishes; and the yellow iris and the purple +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_158' name='Page_158'>[158]</a></span> +loosestrife are also to be seen. And when there +is no wind the scent of the meadow-sweet and +the dog-roses becomes almost overpowering. +</p> + +<p> +Ankerwyke was once a priory. It was appropriated +by Henry VIII., who is said to have carried +on the courtship of Anne Boleyn under the mighty +chestnuts for which it was even then famous: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +The tyrant Harry felt love's softening flame, +</p> +<p> +And sighing breathed his Anna Boleyn's name. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +A bit of doggerel just about worthy of the +occasion! +</p> + +<p> +A more interesting association, though one that +leads us rather far from the river, is Milton's residence +at Horton. He lived here with his parents +for five years after leaving Cambridge, and no +doubt his rambles over country which would not +then be hedged in and cut up as it is now, often +led him in the direction of the river. It was +this scenery, noted at those deeply impressionable +years, that he could still see when earthly sight +was gone. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Lycidas</i> and <i>Comus</i> were both written in the +next four or five years, and in +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +The willows and the hazel copses green +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +we have a touch of real nature breaking through the +conventional allusions to vines and wild thyme; also: +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_159' name='Page_159'>[159]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Ye valleys low, where the mild whispers use +</p> +<p> +Of shades, and wanton winds, and gushing brooks, +</p> +<p> +On whose fresh lap the swart star sparely looks; +</p> +<p> +Throw hither all your quaint, enamell'd eyes +</p> +<p> +That on the green turf suck the honied showers, +</p> +<p> +And purple all the ground with vernal flowers. +</p> +<p> +Bring the rathe primrose that forsaken dies, +</p> +<p> +The tufted crow-toe, and pale jessamine, +</p> +<p> +The white pink, and the pansy freak'd with jet, +</p> +<p> +The glowing violet, +</p> +<p> +The musk-rose, and the well-attir'd woodbine, +</p> +<p> +With cowslips wan that hang the pensive head, +</p> +<p> +And every flower that sad embroidery wears. +</p> +<p> +Bid amaranthus all his beauty shed, +</p> +<p> +And daffadillies fill their cups with tears. +</p> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p class="rjust"> +—<i>Lycidas.</i> +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +By the rushy-fringed bank +</p> +<p> +Where grows the willow and the osier dank. +</p> + +<hr /> <!-- +<tb> + --> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Thus I set my printless feet +</p> +<p> +O'er the cowslip's velvet head +</p> +<p> +That bends not as I tread. +</p> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p class="rjust"> +—<i>Comus.</i> +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +Not very far below Ankerwyke, the river Coln +runs into the Thames near Bell Weir Lock, and +a little bit above Staines is London Stone, standing +in a meadow close by the water. It marked the +former jurisdiction of the Lord Mayor of London +over the river, but these rights are now vested +in the Thames Conservators. Staines does not +make the most of itself, or sufficiently endeavour to +veil those unsightlinesses incidental to a town. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_160' name='Page_160'>[160]</a></span> +The large gasometers opposite London Stone are +not the only blemishes. Standing on the bridge +and looking up-stream there are many ugly, +yellow-brick, manufacturing buildings to be seen; +while the screen of willows does not hide piles +of untidy stones, rusty old iron and other uglinesses. +Even the very passable island in the centre +does not atone. Down stream things are a little +better, though the want of architectural beauty in +the new church by the river and the "plastered-on" +pinnacles of the parish church are both eyesores. +</p> + +<p> +From Staines, however, one may pass rapidly to +a fascinating corner at Penton Hook. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_161' name='Page_161'>[161]</a></span> +</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER XV<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +PENTON HOOK +</span></h2> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i339" id="i339"></a> +<img src="images/i-339.jpg" width="321" height="408" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p> +Penton Hook +is quite peculiar. +To a select little +coterie of people +it is <i>the</i> place on +the river, but +to hundreds of +others it is not +known at all. To +its own manifest +advantage it is off +the "hard high +road," and the +scorchers and the +bounders, and the multitude generally, fly by within +a comparatively short distance, little knowing what +they have missed. But one or two of the favoured +few turn down to quiet little Laleham, and +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_162' name='Page_162'>[162]</a></span> +wheeling round a corner come right on to the +tow-path by the river's brink; in a hundred yards +they are at Penton Hook. But though the Hook +is very select and highly favoured, that is not to +say it lacks population, only—it is a population +of the right sort. Little camps of charming +bungalows dot the banks both above and below +the lock. Some are built on ground leased from +the Conservancy, some on that of private owners. +To each man is allotted a strip of ground, with +so much river frontage, whereon he builds to his +own taste and fancy a little one-storeyed white-painted +house, and lays out the tiny garden from +which his own white steps reach down to the +water. Think of the joy of it! The leader in +an important case has been in a stuffy court +all day, burdened with his wig and gown, seeing +all the dust and stains of unswept corners of +human nature; accusing, with upraised finger, the +brazen witness who has just perjured himself; +dragging from that yellow-faced man the secret +he thought buried. Faugh! But the court rises; +he is away. The motor takes him down in less +than an hour. Gone are the stifling garments; +the worn and wicked faces. The dull roar of +Strand traffic is replaced by the splashing of the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_163' name='Page_163'>[163]</a></span> +water as it bounds over the weir. The freed +man tumbles into flannels and lies full length +on the green grass, smoking, with the water +flowing at his feet, or he dawdles in a boat +round the Hook, tempting the fish with all the +decoys he knows. Happy man! +</p> + +<p> +The trees near the bungalows, and those that +fringe the meadows near, are not pollarded; there +is space between their tall stems. The short grass, +gemmed with pink-tipped daisies, can be seen +everywhere, and there is air, and freshness, and +openness for everyone. The white paint of the +bungalows and their neat green or pink roofs, +the rows of geraniums, roses, and other flowers +carefully kept and tended, add touches of gaiety +and brightness. +</p> + +<p> +There are three weirs, for the river here makes +the neatest horse-shoe in its whole length, and +the authorities have cut through the neck of land, +so that the greater part of the stream goes rioting +and tumbling in joyous confusion beneath the great +new weir, provided with a pent-house roof, under +which it is always cool on the hottest summer day, +with transparent reflections dancing on the wall +and a ripple and splash below. The second +weir, a mere tumbling-weir, is only a few yards +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_164' name='Page_164'>[164]</a></span> +away. The water does not often leap over it +unless it is at flood time, when it affords a safety +outlet. The third and widest is a mixture, half +sluice gates and half of the tumbling kind. At +one time there was no weir here, and boats could +avoid the lock by navigating the Hook, but +that is now no longer possible. There is one +advantage in it; it keeps the Hook more secluded. +The little red water-gauge house is connected +by wires with Staines, and so to all the rest +of England. By an automatic arrangement, the +register shows simultaneously here and at the +offices of the water company what depth of water +there is, so that they may know how much they +can take. +</p> + +<p> +At Penton it should be always summer, with +dog-roses and sweetbriar, with placid red cows +grazing on the tender grass, with boats tethered +in the lazy current round the bend of the Hook. +</p> + +<p> +An uncommonly good place for fishing it is, +this Hook, as the kingfishers have found out, for +they are yearly increasing, and apparently do not +mind the gay tide of summer company that +invades their haunts. Right down on the banks +near the lock one pair nested this year. No +steamers churn up the waters and frighten the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_165' name='Page_165'>[165]</a></span> +fish; only a slow-moving house-boat or two towed +to position and there left, or those drifting boats +belonging to young men and maidens who are +content to drift metaphorically as well as actually. +</p> + +<p> +The Abbey river starts away on its own account +on the far side of the Hook, and begins its short +course of about a couple of miles, to fall into the +Thames again at Chertsey. It used to be possible +to get up it in a boat, but now it is barred. +However, visitors have nothing to complain of, +for the meadows around are singularly open to +them, and the place is not hedged about with +restrictions as are so many river resorts. Numbers +of people come down to picnic, and it is no +uncommon sight to see quite a row of motors +outside the lock-keeper's house, while footman +or chauffeur carries across the luncheon hampers +to what was once a peninsula but is now an +island. Tradesmen's carts come round too, finding +in the swallow-colony quite enough demand +to make it worth their while; and year by year +the bungalows grow. A whole new piece of +meadow, hitherto osier bed, is even now going +to be devoted to them. "Why, I get as many as +twenty to thirty applications for land every week," +says the lock-keeper. It is to be hoped Penton +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_166' name='Page_166'>[166]</a></span> +Hook will not become over-populated, or the +delightful freedom from conventionality which +now characterises it might die away. "Ladies +who come down here—why, some of them, they +never put a hat on their heads the whole time, +and I was going to say not shoes or stockings +either!" The place is particularly sought after by +theatrical people. Miss Ellen Terry still holds +the bungalow she has had for many years. +It is surprising how early the season begins; even +at the end of chilly March a few of the first of +the swallows appear. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_167' name='Page_167'>[167]</a></span> +</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER XVI<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +ABOUT CHERTSEY AND WEYBRIDGE +</span></h2> + +<div class="figleft"><a name="i345" id="i345"></a> +<img src="images/i-345.jpg" width="332" height="403" alt="" /> + +</div> + +<p> +Between Chertsey +and Penton +Hook is Laleham, +where the tiny ivy-covered +church is +too much hidden +away to be seen +easily. An old +red brick moss-grown +wall is the +chief object near +the river, and +with the bending +trees and quiet +fields there is a sense of brooding peace which only +remains in places off the main roads. Matthew +Arnold was born at Laleham and is buried in the +churchyard. His father, Dr. Arnold of Rugby, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_168' name='Page_168'>[168]</a></span> +came here in 1819, but he left when Matthew was +only six, to take the head-mastership of Rugby. +</p> + +<p> +Between Laleham and Chertsey there is some +open, rather untidy ground on which gypsies +are wont to camp. It cannot be said that the +river looks its best above Chertsey. The country +is too flat and open, and on a summer day one +is too often scorched. Yet there is always some +beauty to be found, and it is certainly in open +spaces like these that we see best reflected +"heaven's own blue." Away to the west the +tiny Abbey river flows in past a mill. By +Chertsey bridge a triumphant victory in regard +to right-of-way over the Thames Conservancy in +1902, is recorded on two newly built villas. +Opposite is the Bridge Hotel, which, with its +little bay, its Lombardy poplars and green lawn, is +a pleasant oasis. +</p> + +<p> +Chertsey Abbey, which was of great fame, lay +between the town and the river. It was founded +in 666, and some Saxon tiles from the flooring +may be seen in the British Museum. The +buildings were destroyed by the Danes, but +it was re-established in 964 as a Benedictine +Monastery. +</p> + +<p> +Nothing shows more the immense power of the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_169' name='Page_169'>[169]</a></span> +monks in England than these mighty abbeys +which studded the country. We have come +across so many, even in our short journey between +Oxford and London, that the fact cannot escape +notice; though they probably were more thickly +set beside the river than elsewhere, because, as +I have said, flowing water attracted these old +monks for more than one reason. There is hardly +anything left of Chertsey Abbey now, yet in its +prime it was like a small town, giving employment +to hundreds of people. There are a few ivy-covered +steps near the back of the church and an +old bit of wall doubtfully supposed to have been +part of the boundary; this is near the Abbey +river. Henry VI. was buried at Chertsey, and +his funeral is referred to in Shakespeare's play of +<i>Richard III.</i>: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +... after I have solemnly interr'd +</p> +<p> +At Chertsey monast'ry this noble king, +</p> +<p> +And wet his grave with my repentant tears. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +So he makes the hypocritical Duke of Gloucester +speak. Cowley, the poet, lived in Chertsey for +two years before his death. The house still stands; +it has an overhanging storey and is covered with +rough stucco. Charles James Fox was born in +a house near, and this probably decided him in +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_170' name='Page_170'>[170]</a></span> +making choice of a residence many years later, +for he chose St. Anne's Hill, only two miles away, +which can be seen far and wide around. There +he settled to indulge in the delightful hobby of +improving his grounds. +</p> + +<p> +Below Chertsey Bridge is an excellent punting +reach, where the championship punting competition +is held every year in the beginning of +August. This is, doubtless, the reason why +Chertsey is crowded with visitors in the summer, +when out of all the innumerable lodgings scarcely +a room is to be had. +</p> + +<p> +The river about Weybridge and Shepperton is +much more varied than at Chertsey, and to my +mind variety is a direct element of beauty in +river scenery. We have passed through flat +meadows lined with straight ranks of Lombardy +poplars that might belong to northern France, +and then suddenly, at Weybridge, we begin +once more curves and twists and unexpected +islands and snug corners. There is a ferry across +the river, and the place seems to get along +wonderfully well without a bridge. In the +middle of the stream is a well-kept island which +belonged to the late Mr. D'Oyly Carte; it is +hedged about with an exclusive wall, enclosing a +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_171' name='Page_171'>[171]</a></span> +pretty garden. In the centre is a neat white +house with projecting tiles. +</p> + +<p> +In every direction there are numerous boat-building +establishments. The lock island is large +and has other buildings on it besides the lock-keeper's +cottage. It is a favourite camping ground +in summer, and has rather an untidy appearance. +The wide-mouthed Wey flows in beside a +couple of other islands, and is itself a very +attractive place to explore, winding away through +meadows and beneath overhanging trees. It is, +however, not free from locks, though of a somewhat +simpler kind than those on the Thames. +Weybridge is a fresh and pleasant place, rapidly +growing in all directions, and in its gorsy common +land and masses of pine woods it reminds +one of the parts of Surrey about Camberley. On +the green stands the column which once presented +seven faces to the seven streets in London, called +after it Seven Dials. Since then it has risen +in life, having been bought and surmounted with +a coronet instead of the dial stone; this was in +honour of the Duchess of York, who died in 1820. +She lived at Oatlands Park and was very popular. +</p> + +<p> +Oatlands Park is the great place of the neighbourhood. +It was once a hunting ground of King +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_172' name='Page_172'>[172]</a></span> +Henry VIII., but now belongs to a large residential +hotel. Nothing remains of the building, +which was used by many of our English monarchs. +George IV. entertained here the Emperor of +Russia, the King of Prussia, and all the princes +and generals who visited England after Waterloo. +In 1790 the Duke of York, who is commemorated +by the column in Waterloo Place, bought and +rebuilt the house, and still later it was in the +possession of the Earl of Ellesmere. Remodelled, +the house still stands as the hotel. A large piece +of ornamental water in the grounds is almost +as great an attraction as Virginia Water. Just +where the park touches the river is the place +known as Cowey Stakes. It is said that here +Cæsar crossed the river when in pursuit of +Cassivelaunus, in 54 <span class='s08'>B.C.</span> The stakes, which are +no longer to be seen, are supposed to have been +placed there to obstruct his use of the ford. +They had been so long under water, that when +found they were like ebony; they were about +six feet long and shod with iron. They appear +to have been too imposing and carefully formed +to have been put in for the mere purpose of a +river weir or for fishing; but, on the other hand, +instead of running with the axis of the river, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_173' name='Page_173'>[173]</a></span> +as would appear reasonable if they were meant +to obstruct the passage of men, they were planted +across it like a weir. They have afforded matter +for endless discussion among antiquaries. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i353" id="i353"></a> +<img src="images/i-353.jpg" width="550" height="437" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">WALTON BRIDGE +</p> +</div> + +<p> +What we know is that Cæsar, having landed +at Pevensey, marched inland and came to the +Thames at about eighty miles from the sea. The +river was fordable only at one place, and here +natives were drawn up to oppose him, and the ford +fortified with sharp stakes. So the evidence +certainly seems in favour of this place. +</p> + +<p> +Near Cowey Stakes is Walton Bridge, on the +far side of which is a large pool connected with +the river by a channel; here are constantly to +be found punt fishers. Turner painted Walton +Bridge, and certainly, in some aspects, the place +is worthy of being painted. The present bridge +is of brick and iron, but the old one was of oak. +Walton, like every other place on the Thames, +depends greatly on the weather. On days when +the cedars are seen against a vivid blue sky and +the songs of a thousand birds are heard, when +the meadows are lined with flowers, it is beautiful. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Now rings the woodland loud and long, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + The distance takes a lovelier hue, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + And drown'd in yonder living blue +</p> +<p> +The lark becomes a sightless song. +</p> +</div></div></div> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_174' name='Page_174'>[174]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +There are other days when the whole is +curiously like a platinotype photograph; when the +steel-grey water reflects a white sun, and all the +countless twigs of the trees are seen in one +feathery mass. All colours seem drawn out of +the picture, even the green of the grass is turned +to dun. Light is everything in estimating beauty, +but it is sometimes difficult to realise quite how +much one owes to it. We might quote from +Cowley's <i>Hymn to the Light</i>: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Thou in the moon's bright chariot proud and gay +</p> +<p class="i1"> + Dost thy bright wood of stars survey, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + And all the year dost with thee bring +</p> +<p> +Of thousand flow'ry lights thine own nocturnal spring. +</p> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p> +When, goddess, thou lift'st up thy waken'd head +</p> +<p class="i1"> + Out of the morning's purple bed, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + Thy quire of birds about thee play, +</p> +<p> +And all the joyful world salutes the rising day. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +In Walton Church is a small brass with, <i>inter +alia</i>, a man riding on a stag's back. The story +goes that this man, John Selwyn, was an under-keeper +in Oatlands Park in Queen Elizabeth's +time, and that when she was present at the +"chace," he leapt from his own horse's back +straight on to that of the driven stag, when "he +not only kept his seat gracefully in spite of every +effort of the affrighted beast, but, drawing his +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_175' name='Page_175'>[175]</a></span> +sword, with it guided him toward the Queen, +and coming near her presence plunged it into +his throat, so that the animal fell dead at her +feet." +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i359" id="i359"></a> +<img src="images/i-359.jpg" width="439" height="550" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">SUNBURY +</p> +</div> + +<p> +In the vestry is a Scolds' or Gossips' bridle, +designed in the old days of witch-hunting and +other atrocities to torture poor women. +</p> + +<p> +Admiral Rodney was a native of Walton, and an +old and quaintly built house which belonged to +the regicide Bradshaw is still in existence. +</p> + +<p> +Below Walton is Sunbury with its long, long +weirs, and its little houses spread beside the edge +of the water. But with Hampton we reach +the Londoner's zone, which is for another chapter. +At present Halliford and Shepperton, two little +places opposite Oatlands, are far too pretty to +be passed by without remark. The Manor House +at Shepperton has one of the finest lawns on the +river, which is no small thing. Shepperton is a +scattered place and lies low; the meadows all +around are often flooded for miles and miles, +looking like an inland sea. A tiny river called +the Exe finds its way into the Thames near +Halliford. A glimpse of the quaint church of +Shepperton should not be missed. The tower +is very lean and narrow; it looks rather as if +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_176' name='Page_176'>[176]</a></span> +bricks had run short. It was added later than +the rest, which was built in 1614. Tradition says +that the previous church was destroyed by a +Thames flood, though it stood on piles to raise it +from the marshy ground. The old rectory, with +its dormer windows and projecting wings, is really +built of oak, though it has been faced with tiles +which look like brick. It is about four hundred +years old, and is one of the most delightful rectory +houses imaginable. The list of rectors goes back +to before 1330. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_177' name='Page_177'>[177]</a></span> +</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER XVII<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +THE LONDONER'S ZONE +</span></h2> + +<div class="figleft"><a name="i363" id="i363"></a> +<img src="images/i-363.jpg" width="322" height="405" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p> +As far as Hampton +the river may +be said to lie +within the zone +of the Londoner. +By means of the +District Railway +and the London +and South Western +Railway he +can get at any +part of it, and +trams are yearly +stretching out +further and further, so that he can go above +ground, if he wishes, all the way to Hampton. At +Hampton itself, at Richmond and Kew, there are +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_178' name='Page_178'>[178]</a></span> +large open spaces once the gardens or parks +belonging to kings, but now open as public +pleasure grounds, ideal places for the man who has +a small family to take with him, and whose holiday +is limited to a day. For those who are free from +encumbrances, there are always boats to be had in +abundance, at a much cheaper rate than one would +have to pay for them at, say, Maidenhead; and the +scenery itself, though not so fine as some higher +up, is pleasant and attractive. If the day be wet +or uncertain there is the palace at Hampton to +explore; and accommodation for eating and drinking +is amply supplied by numerous inns and hotels +clustering round its gates. +</p> + +<p> +The gateway to the Palace is imposing, with its +brick piers and stone heraldic animals, and the long +low range of buildings on the left side makes a strip +of bright colour. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="i367" id="i367"></a> +<img src="images/i-367.jpg" width="550" height="442" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">HAMPTON COURT FROM THE RIVER +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The older part of the palace was built by Wolsey, +but by far the greater part of it, as it now stands, is +due to William III. Some parts of the entrance +gateway and the great hall are all that remain +to speak of Wolsey's inconceivable boldness in +attempting to build a palace which should outshine +that of a jealous monarch like Henry VIII. +Skelton's satire, beginning: +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_179' name='Page_179'>[179]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Why come ye not to courte? +</p> +<p> +To which courte? +</p> +<p> +To the kinge's courte, +</p> +<p> +Or to Hampton Courte? +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +showed what everyone thought, and doubtless +served to concentrate attention upon Wolsey's +temerity. The irony of the matter lay in the fact +that the palace was not seized, but that the unfortunate +owner was forced to make a present of it to +the King: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +With turrettes and with toures, +</p> +<p> +With halls and with boures +</p> +<p> +Stretching to the starres, +</p> +<p> +With glass windows and barres; +</p> +<p> +Hanginge about their walles +</p> +<p> +Clothes of gold and palles +</p> +<p> +Fresh as floures in Maye. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +Whether he gave the palace as it stood, with its +"two hundred and four score beds, the furniture of +most being of silk," is not recorded; but it is probable +that when he had been wrought up to the +pitch of terror necessary for overcoming his reluctance +to part with his beautiful new possession, he +would give all—everything—feeling that so long +as his life was safe it was all he cared about. As a +mark of royal favour, Henry allowed him to occupy +apartments at Richmond, where he was not too +far off to observe the doings of the monarch in +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_180' name='Page_180'>[180]</a></span> +his palace. The king was so pleased with his +new establishment that he formed a mighty park, +embracing all the land for miles around, including +East and West Molesey, Cobham, Esher, Byfleet, +and Thames Ditton, and was sorely aggrieved +because his loving subjects, whose land and rights +had thus been confiscated, dared to make an outcry. +</p> + +<p> +Edward VI. was born at Hampton. After his +death Queen Mary came here with her husband +Philip, and the unhappy couple, one full of sullen +hate, the other sore and bitter in her loneliness, +must have strolled in the grounds many a time. +</p> + +<p> +For three months King Charles I. was held +prisoner here while his fate was undecided, and +when he was removed it was to go up the river to +Maidenhead, where he said his last farewell to his +children. Oliver Cromwell, who, though he dared +not take the name of king, had no dislike to the +royal privileges, lived at Hampton, and one of his +daughters was married from the palace. But by +the time of William III., much of the building +had fallen into decay. The situation was +pleasant, and though Henry's park had in great +part reverted to its rightful owners, there was still +much open ground around which made the place +desirable. William had a passion for building, and +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_181' name='Page_181'>[181]</a></span> +loved the prim Dutch style, as was natural. The +maze and the canal, and the long avenues of trees +in Bushey, are all evidences of his taste. But in +the palace he attempted to copy Versailles, as he +had already copied it at Kensington. Poor Wren +must have been as much perplexed as ever he was +in his life when told to remodel a Tudor building +into the copy of one of the Renaissance, and that +he succeeded at all is greatly to his credit. Two +out of the five courts which remained of the old +palace were pulled down, and the state rooms, as +we now see them, are the work of Wren under +William's directions. Since then the interest and +beauty of the interior has been much added to by +the famous collection of pictures, which attracts at +least as many visitors as the building does. +</p> + +<p> +Bushey Park adjoins Hampton, and lies so close +to the river that it forms part of the river scenery. +Its glory is in its great double line of chestnuts, +with the broad sweep of green grass lining the +avenues formed by them. Chestnut Sunday, when +the trees are in bloom, is a well-known date in the +Londoner's calendar, and every description of conveyance +is hired, chartered, or borrowed, to see the +great sight. Hundreds of people, to whom it is +one of the great days in the year, walk about or +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_182' name='Page_182'>[182]</a></span> +eat refreshments beneath the sombre green masses +which are lightened by a thousand pyramidal +candles. The central avenue is one mile and forty +yards in length, and the width of it is fifty-six +yards. A noble conception, worthy of the little +man with the wise head. On Hampton Green, +outside the gates of the palace, Sir Christopher +Wren passed the last five years of his life, in sight +of his greatest architectural problem. +</p> + +<p> +Molesey Lock, just above the bridge, is a popular +place in summer. All those who have come down +to enjoy the fresh air, and who want an excuse for +doing nothing, stand and watch the boats passing +through; there is always as great a crowd on the +tow-path as on the water. A number of islands +lie above the lock, the largest of which is Tagg's, as +well known as any island on the river, and much +patronised by holiday-makers at lunch and tea +time. In summer a band plays on the lawn twice +a week. It is opposite the end of the Hurst Park +Racecourse, patronised by altogether a different type +of people from those who come to Hampton Court, +and who can only be said to belong to the river +accidentally, by reason of the position of the course. +A wonderful club boat-house of polished wood +has sprung up of recent years on the Hampton +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_183' name='Page_183'>[183]</a></span> +side, and above it is Garrick's Villa with portico +and columns. This the great actor bought in 1754, +and kept until his death, after which his widow +lived in it for another forty years. He was visited +here by all the celebrated men of his time, including +Horace Walpole, Dr. Johnson and Hogarth, and +here he gave a splendid series of river fêtes. The +little temple on the bank was built by him as a +shrine for a statue of Shakespeare, which has now +been removed. A small public garden on the edge +of the water makes this a favourite lounging place +for the people of the neighbourhood. The scenery is +rather tame, but has that charm always to be found +in flowing water and green grass, in the absence of +chimneys and other horrors of man's making. +</p> + +<p> +The church of Hampton village stands up fairly +high above the water. It is in a most unlovely +style, but ivy has done something to smooth down +its defects, which are further toned by distance. +There is a ferry close by, and as this is the nearest +point to the station, many of those who arrive by +train on race-days cross at this point, and the ferrymen +reap rich harvests. +</p> + +<p> +Not far beyond this loom up the great earthworks +and reservoirs of the West Middlesex and +Grand Junction Water Company, and with that +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_184' name='Page_184'>[184]</a></span> +the influence of Hampton may be said to cease. +</p> + +<p> +Returning again to the bridge at Hampton, we +have the river Mole flowing in on the right bank. +Molesey Regatta takes place every year in July. +The trees and red brickwork of the palace are on +the left, and only a short way down is the pretty +little oasis of Thames Ditton, which somehow seems +as if it ought to belong to the river much higher +up, and had fallen here by mistake. The Swan +Inn is right on the edge of the water. It is proud +of the fact that Theodore Hook wrote a verse on a +pane of glass at a time when such things were quite +legitimate, because the tourist, as we know him, +had not then come into existence to vulgarise the +practice. The pane has been broken, but the +verse is remembered, and the following lines are a +sample: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +The Swan, snug inn, good fare affords +</p> +<p class="i1"> + As table e'er was put on, +</p> +<p> +And worthier quite of loftier boards, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + Its poultry, fish and mutton. +</p> +<p> +And while sound wine mine host supplies, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + With ale of Meux and Tritton, +</p> +<p> +Mine hostess with her bright blue eyes +</p> +<p class="i1"> + Invites to stay at Ditton. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +We wonder how many hostesses since have +wished the lines had never been written. An old +inn near by, with overhanging gable end and +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_185' name='Page_185'>[185]</a></span> +clinging wistaria, makes a pretty corner, and in the +High Street itself there are bits so different from +the Kingston and Surbiton ideal, that one cannot +understand how they can be in the same zone with +them at all. The green lawns of Ditton House +and Boyle Farm are quite close, and the fine +island with its willows hides the flatness of the +further bank. +</p> + +<p> +About the end of the eighteenth century this +part of the river was celebrated for its magnificent +fêtes. +</p> + +<p> +One of these, given at Boyle Farm, inspired +Moore to write a poem which was not published +until long after: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Lamps of all hues, from walks and bowers, +</p> +<p> +Broke on the eye like kindling flowers +</p> +<p> +Till budding into light each tree +</p> +<p> +Bore its full fruit of brilliancy. +</p> + +<hr /> <!-- +<tb> + --> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p> +And now along the waters fly +</p> +<p> +Swift gondoles of Venetian breed, +</p> +<p> +With knights, and dames, who calm reclined, +</p> +<p> +Lisp out love sonnets as they glide, +</p> +<p> +Astonishing old Thames to find +</p> +<p> +Such doings on his moral tide. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +The reach is a favourite one for sailing boats. +Below Long Ditton are the large waterworks of +the Lambeth Company. On fine Saturdays and +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_186' name='Page_186'>[186]</a></span> +Sundays the Hampton tow-path on the other side +is generally alive with people. On Raven's Ait is +the club-house of the Kingston Rowing Club, and +beside the water runs a well laid out strip of ground +with bushes and seats, and a good stout hedge to +keep off the dust from the motor cars which race +by on the road—a section of the Ripley Road +beloved of scorchers. In summer this little public +garden is bright with flowers, and it is a great +favourite with the inhabitants of Kingston and +Surbiton. Before arriving at the bridge there are +the backs of untidy houses, and generally a great +medley of barges, laden with hay and bricks and +coal, lying about by the wharves. +</p> + +<p> +Kingston, as we have said elsewhere, can boast +of one of the oldest bridges over the river. A +bridge of wood stood here in 1225, when there was +no other in the whole sweep downward as far as +London Bridge. The present one is very narrow, +and its convenience is not increased since a double +line of tramways has been laid across it. The +general similarity of position between it and +Richmond Bridge may be remarked. Both have +large boat-building establishments near, and both +are about the same distance from the railway +bridges which cross below them. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_187' name='Page_187'>[187]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +As this is not a guide-book, no attempt is made +to describe other than picturesque effects and +ancient survivals such as are likely to attract the +notice of anyone actually on the river, but an +exception must be made in favour of Kingston +Stone, which anyone ought to land to see. It is +in the market-place, not five minutes from the river, +and from it—the King's Stone—the name of the +place is derived. It is a shapeless block, mounted +on a granite base, and round it are inscribed the +names of seven Saxon kings who were crowned +here, and a silver penny of each of their reigns has +been inserted. There seems to be no authentic +history of this interesting relic, and no definite +explanation as to why these kings should have been +here crowned; but a suggestion there is that at the +date of the first of the coronations Mercia and +Wessex were joined under one king, and while the +boundaries of Mercia reached to the Thames on +the north side, those of Wessex marched with them +on the south. Kingston was equally accessible to +both, and as London was at that time in the hands +of the Danes, and the ford at Kingston the only +one above London by which the river could be +safely crossed, the place was chosen accordingly. +</p> + +<p> +Teddington Lock was for a long time the lowest +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_188' name='Page_188'>[188]</a></span> +on the river, but has been supplanted by a Benjamin +in the shape of a half-tide lock at Richmond. The +reach about Teddington is in the summer very +pretty. The banks are dotted with little bungalows, +bright with blue and white paint and gay +with flowers. The long smooth lawns of the riverside +houses stretch down to the water, and the +Crimson Rambler climbs over many a rustic bridge +and iron trellis. It is a well-cared for part, and +holds its own against rivals of greater grandeur. +There are several islands forming cover where one +can ship oars and rest, and though landing is in +most places forbidden, there is no law against a +boat's drawing inshore beneath the shelter of the +overhanging trees, amongst which may be noted +several weeping willows. This bit recalls Moore's: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p class="i3"> + ... where Thames is seen +</p> +<p> +Gliding between his banks of green, +</p> +<p> +While rival villas on each side +</p> +<p> +Peep from their bowers to win his tide. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +Beyond Teddington we are in Twickenham Reach: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Where silver Thames round Twit'nam meads +</p> +<p> +His winding current sweetly leads. +</p> + +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p class="rjust"> +—<i>Walpole.</i> +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +There is a great bend at Twickenham, and in it +the chimneys of Strawberry Hill may be seen overtopping +the high evergreen hedge that surrounds it. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_189' name='Page_189'>[189]</a></span> +The house has been altered considerably since +Walpole's date, but in its essence it is the house he +built. He himself describes his view thus: +</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p> +Directly before it is an open grove through which you +see a field, which is bounded by a serpentine wood of all +kind of trees, and flowering shrubs, and flowers. The +lawn before the house is situated on the top of a small hill +from whence to the left you see the town and church of +Twickenham, encircling a turn of the river, that looks +exactly like a seaport in miniature. The opposite shore +is a most delicious meadow, bounded by Richmond Hill, +which loses itself in the noble woods of the park to the +end of the prospect on the right, where is another turn of +the river, and the suburbs of Kingston as luckily placed as +Kingston is on the left.... You must figure that all +this is perpetually enlivened by a navigation of boats and +barges. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +His architecture was a medley of everything that +could by any possibility be included under the +heading Gothic, and the result was more curious +than beautiful, though it became the fashion to +visit the house. Walpole bemoaned the crowds +aloud, but secretly delighted in them. He published +a description of the house, in the beginning +of which he says he trusts it will be a lesson in +taste to all who see it! An example of the suave +self-belief of an egotist. At Twickenham there is +another fantastic building called Pope's Villa. This +can be seen much better from the river than Strawberry +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_190' name='Page_190'>[190]</a></span> +Hill can, and it is an affected piece of architecture. +It has been described as "a combination +of an Elizabethan half-timber house and a Stuart +Renaissance, with the addition of Dutch and Swiss, +Italian and Chinese features." This is not the +house occupied by Pope, nor is it even exactly on +the same site as his. In front of it is a group of +weeping willows, a kind of tree which shows to +particular advantage by the water-side. Pope +himself is said to have been the first to introduce +it into England, having found some sticks of it +in a bundle sent to him from Spain by the Countess +of Suffolk. +</p> + +<p> +Pope lived at Twickenham from 1719 to +1744, and produced here most of his important +works, including the last books of his <i>Odyssey</i>, +the <i>Dunciad</i> and the famous <i>Essay on Man</i>. +He was here visited by Gay and Swift, and +many another contemporary whose name is still +held in estimation. He laid out his grounds in +a decorative way, and made a curious underground +grotto, which lies away from the water, +on the other side of the road. Among the +celebrated men who have, at one time or +another, lived at Twickenham are numbered +Henry Fielding, Dr. Donne, Sir Godfrey Kneller, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_191' name='Page_191'>[191]</a></span> +Tennyson, and Turner. The last-named was very +fond of fishing, and used to fish a good deal in +this part of the river. +</p> + +<p> +There is a little esplanade at Twickenham, shaded +by small horse-chestnuts, and in front lies the +famous Eel-pie Island, which vies with Tagg's in +summer popularity. The hotel has a pleasant +garden, but the rest of the island is, it must be +confessed, rather untidy, with several places for +building motor launches and many boat-houses. +At the small wharf opposite the church there are +nearly always barges unloading bricks or sand and +gravel. Yet the place has an air of dignity, perhaps +given to it by the old Perpendicular stone tower of +the church, so incongruously welded on to a red-brick +pedimented Georgian building. The architect +was the same who built St. George's, Hanover +Square; but, as Sir Godfrey Kneller was churchwarden, +one might have expected something in +better taste. Pope is buried inside, and a flat slab +with his initial letter on it now serves as a base for +several pews. Not far from the church is York +House, and with Orleans and Ham House on the +other side of the river this is a notable group. In +the great gardens of Orleans House grow splendid +cedars, stone pines, and other evergreens. The +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_192' name='Page_192'>[192]</a></span> +little Duke of Gloucester, the only child who +survived babyhood out of Queen Anne's enormous +family, was brought here for his health in 1694. +Six years later this quaint child, with a rickety +body and an enormous head, died of small-pox at +the age of eleven. The house was afterwards +rebuilt. To it in 1800 came Louis Philippe, then +Duc d'Orleans, and his two brothers. After his +brief summer of prosperity in France, he returned +to England as an exile in 1848; that he had a +warm remembrance of the house is shown by his +then purchasing it. He did not, however, live +here himself, but placed his son, the Duc d'Aumale, +in it, and a colony of royal refugees settled round. +At Mount Lebanon, not far off, was the Prince de +Joinville; and the Duc d'Aumale, having bought +York House, gave it to his nephew the Comte de +Paris, who lived there for six or seven years. Queen +Anne was born in York House—it had been given +to her mother's father, Lord Clarendon—and with +her elder sister she spent her earliest years at +Twickenham. All these notable houses and dignified +memories are enough to account for the air of +sober gravity never wholly absent from the river at +Twickenham even on the brightest days; and the +rows of Lombardy poplars, the magnificent cedars, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_193' name='Page_193'>[193]</a></span> +and the fine foliage of the other trees enhance +the impression. Ham House, on the other side, +was built in 1611, it is said for Prince Henry, +James I.'s eldest son. It is screened from the +water by a row of tall trees. Around it grow +Scotch firs and holm oaks. +</p> + +<p> +We have not long left Twickenham before we +see the little oblong island about which there was +so much contention because it formed an item in +the famous Marble Hill view, seen from the heights +of Richmond Park. The London County Council +are now owners of the Marble Hill estate, and +have made it into a public park. It lies on the +Twickenham side. The house was built by +George II. for the Countess of Suffolk. Gay, +Pope, and Swift all took an interest in the building, +and voiced their opinions as to the style and the +laying out of the grounds. A suite of rooms in +the house was afterwards set aside for Gay, who +was a great favourite with the countess. +</p> + +<p> +The other side of the river is open, and it must +be admitted that on a sunny day this bit is a stiff +pull if one is unfortunate enough to be going +against the current. It is often to be described +by the word "glaring," yet the fine scimitar-like +sweep of the tree-crowned heights above, capped +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_194' name='Page_194'>[194]</a></span> +by the huge mass of the Star and Garter Hotel, +toned to unoffending mediocrity of colour, is worth +seeing. +</p> + +<p> +Richmond, like nearly all the other places on +the river, has an atmosphere of its own, difficult +to put into words. It is less flippant than Kingston, +and has not a tinge of the gravity of +Twickenham. The houses rise high and are +irregular; those in the main street recede from +the water as they leave the bridge, and between +them and the stream are innumerable others, some +with gardens, some overshadowed by trees. Weeping +willows, Scotch firs, and ivy-covered trunks +abound, and the place is the perfection of a +residential quarter. There is enough oldness and +irregularity to avoid stiffness, enough modernity +to ensure cleanliness. The bridge has a peculiarly +individual curve—a real humpback—and its stone +balustrade is very fine. At the southern end, far +too many new red-brick flats are springing up, +alas! but on the north or east, where lies old +Richmond, they are not visible to any appreciable +extent. The scene below the bridge is distinctly +pretty. Large boat-building yards, as at Kingston, +occupy the foreground, and the warm cinnamons +and ochres of newly-varnished boats are generally +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_195' name='Page_195'>[195]</a></span> +to be seen, as well as the more crude and garishly +painted craft. The islands are tree-covered, and +are well placed in the stream. Yet one may note +that, popular as Richmond is, it is not flooded in +the summer time with such crowds of boating +visitors as Hampton. There are more large craft +about, and boating people do not care for that. +</p> + +<p> +What remains of Richmond Palace must be +sought below the bridge, for it will not be seen +without a little effort. The old palace stood right +on the margin of the water, and an engraving of +it is still extant, showing a pinnacled and many +chimneyed building. The angular towers are +capped by turrets like those of the old palace at +Greenwich. Henry I. was the first English king +to live here, but until Edward III.'s time it was +hardly a recognised royal palace. It fell before +the hand of Richard II., who in a fit of frenzy at +the death of his wife, which occurred here, ordered +its destruction. Henry V. restored it, but it was +burnt down in the end of the fifteenth century, +and afterwards rebuilt by Henry VII., who changed +its name from Sheen to Richmond, and who himself +died there. The old Tudor gateway of his +time remains still. It is said, but with doubtful +accuracy, that the Countess of Nottingham died +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_196' name='Page_196'>[196]</a></span> +in the room over the gateway, after having +confessed to Elizabeth her duplicity about the +Earl of Essex and the ring he had confided to her +charge. We have many records of Richmond +from the time of the miserable Katherine of +Arragon—widow of one boy prince, but not yet +affianced to the other, a foreigner in a strange +land, bitterly hating her surroundings—to the time +of Charles I., who made the great park and hunted +in it. A large Carthusian monastery stood near +the palace. Perkin Warbeck found an asylum in +the monastery, and in 1550 Robert Dudley was +here married to Amy Robsart. +</p> + +<p> +There is a half-tide lock at Richmond, with a +footbridge. This is at present the lowest lock on +the river, though there is some talk of making +a similar one at Wandsworth. It is quite different +in construction from the usual kind. It has three +great sluices, each weighing thirty-two tons, and +when the tide brings up the water, so that it is +equal with that above—that is to say, at half-tide—the +sluices are raised by the addition of a small +weight to the massive pendules by which they are +exactly balanced, and the water is allowed free way. +</p> + +<p> +All along this stretch of the river there is on +one side a fine row of shady trees growing to a +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_197' name='Page_197'>[197]</a></span> +great height. Beyond the raised footpath is the +old Deer Forest, on which stands Kew Observatory, +and a minor stream, which afterwards forms +a moat to Kew Gardens, runs along merrily. +Isleworth is finely placed at a bend of the river, +and though it is a manufacturing place, it is not +so bad as Brentford. The large willow-covered +ait in front affords occupation to the osier gatherers. +The church is ugly; it is placed very like that at +Hampton, and, like Hampton also, its ugliness is +mitigated by a covering of ivy. The tower, as +so frequently happens, is much older than the rest. +Was it that church towers were built more solidly +than the naves, or that the naves would have stood +equally well had they been allowed to remain? +</p> + +<p> +Then we come to the great park surrounding +Syon House (Duke of Northumberland), a park +fringed with marshy ground, where reeds and +rushes flourish, and which is overflowed at every +flood. Crows consider it a delightful place, if +their perpetual presence may be taken to indicate +opinion. A great clump of cedars stands between +the house and the river, but we have to go +considerably further on before the severe line of +frontage, with its ground floor arcade and battlemented +parapet, can be seen at full length. The +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_198' name='Page_198'>[198]</a></span> +astonished lion stands clear up against the sky, as +he did of old at Northumberland House, over the +site of which now flows a ceaseless stream of traffic. +Long years ago there stood here at Isleworth a +convent for nuns. This was suppressed at the +Dissolution. Katherine Howard was imprisoned +in Syon House until three days before her execution, +and only five years later the corpse of her +murderer, the tyrant Henry, stopped here on its +way to Windsor. Edward VI. granted the place +to Lord-Protector Somerset, who, with his usual +mania for building, began to reconstruct it on +a much larger scale; but before he had got farther +than the mere shell of his design, he suffered +disgrace, and Syon House passed to the Duke of +Northumberland. Here came Lady Jane Grey, +timid and doubting, to receive the offer of the +crown, and from here she started on her last sad +journey to the Tower. +</p> + +<p> +Queen Mary naturally tried to re-establish the +nuns, but found it difficult, as some had died and +others had married! Fuller's comment is worth +quoting: +</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p> +It was some difficulty to stock it with such as had been +veiled before, it being now thirty years since the Dissolution, +in which time most of the elder nuns were in their graves, +and the younger in the arms of their husbands, as afterwards +embracing a married life. +</p> +</div> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_199' name='Page_199'>[199]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +In James I.'s reign Syon House was in the hands +of the Earl of Northumberland, who also fell under +his sovereign's displeasure, but was allowed to +return here to die. Under his successor, the tenth +earl, Inigo Jones was employed to alter the house; +but the architect of the present building was Adam +(1728-92). +</p> + +<p> +The place is often very quiet, and the hovering +crows, and perhaps a few men in boats grubbing +for sand and gravel from the river-bed with +long-handled scoops, have it all to themselves. +It is not much frequented because just below +comes Brentford, with all its ugliness, a sore blot +on the river. Nevertheless, on the Surrey side, +to counterbalance it, we have the famous Kew +Gardens. The very varied trees that grow here +can be well seen, for the parapet of the wall is +low, the Gardens being sufficiently protected by +the moat. Further on, when this comes to an end, +the wall is heightened, and only the tops of the +elms and ashes and horse-chestnuts peep over. +Presently a new object comes into view—a +"palace," in that it was the dwelling-place of +royalty; but anything less like a palace surely +never was seen. A stiff, square red-brick house, +where Miss Burney served her "sweet queen," +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_200' name='Page_200'>[200]</a></span> +and the old king cried "What, what, what?" a +hundred times a day, and the overflowing quiverful +of their Royal Highnesses quarrelled and played +and grew up. +</p> + +<p> +Very few people realise what a large basin there +is on the river Brent, and what an amount of +business is carried on here. From the river, one's +chief reflection is thankfulness that the trees on +the large islands have grown so well that they form +a screen for the soap factories, the cement works, +the breweries, etc., which constitute the industries +of Brentford. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Brentford, tedious town, +</p> +<p> +For dirty streets and white-legged chickens known, +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +says Gay. The dirty streets are still there, with +the confusion in their narrow limits worse confounded +by the passing of tramcars, which, over +the mile along which Brentford spreads itself, take +double the time spent on any other bit of equal +distance on their route. Most people have a hazy +notion about two kings at Brentford; this is one +of those curious examples of the persistence of an +unimportant detail. The allusion was first made +in a play called <i>The Rehearsal</i>, written by the +Duke of Buckingham, and Thackeray's ballad on +the same subject carried it a step further. That +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_201' name='Page_201'>[201]</a></span> +there was a battle at Brentford one learns in the +history books. It was when the Parliamentarians, +who had rested in the town all night, were surprised +by Prince Rupert, under the cover of a thick mist, +and completely routed. +</p> + +<p> +All along the Kew side, up to the bridge, are +tea-gardens sandwiched between boat-houses; and +the new bridge made of granite, with its branching +lamps and royal arms, is really an imposing object. +Above and below the bridge the character of the +river is singularly different. Above, as we have +seen, are the mudflats, and wharves, and chimneys, +not to omit water towers and gasometers; and +below is a bit of Chiswick, built along by the +waterside, a queer little irregular row of red-brick +houses and cottages, near which are fastened the +boats of men who live by fishing; it is a little +riverside place of the old sort. There are meadows, +called Duke's Meadows, opposite Mortlake; these +afford a fine vantage-ground for spectators who +come to see the great Boat Race. +</p> + +<p> +The hour of the Boat Race varies according +to the tide, for the race is rowed at the "top of +the tide"—when it is at its fullest. If the hour +be an easy one—about mid-day—and the weather +is promising, and especially if the reports of the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_202' name='Page_202'>[202]</a></span> +prowess of the crews give reason to believe the +race will be a close one, then the crowd is very +large indeed. Some prefer to watch the start; +some enthusiasts keep up with the boats on +water the whole way; but a great majority there +are who want to see the last effort between +Hammersmith and Barnes Bridges, for it is almost +a certainty that the crew leading at Barnes Bridge +will be the winner. Almost, but not quite; for +there was an occasion when, by a sudden spurt, the +positions of the boats were reversed, and Cambridge, +which had been behind, won the race. The road +along by Mortlake is lined with crowds; every +window is filled, and all available roofs. On the +railway bridge are closely-packed ranks of people, +brought there and deposited by trains, which afterwards +decorously withdraw and wait to pick them +up again. The price of this first-rate position is +included in the fares. Chiswick meadows afford +space for many more persons, who usually pay +a shilling a head to the land-holders. This is a +very favourite position, because the grassy slopes +form such a pleasant seat while the inevitable +waiting is gone through. +</p> + +<p> +In the river itself lie several steamers packed +with passengers, and also various small boats. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_203' name='Page_203'>[203]</a></span> +Then down comes the launch of the Thames +Conservators to clear the course. The long strings +of barges, which have been taking advantage of +the flowing tide to make their way up-stream, +are seen no more. A gun goes off, and then, an +extraordinarily short time after, a murmur begins +among the crowds on the Mortlake side. It grows +and grows and swells along the Chiswick shore, as +first one boat creeps round the corner, and then +the other. "Cambridge wins; Cambridge, Cambridge!" +"Row up, Oxford!" +</p> + +<p> +Then, perhaps—usually—it is seen that one boat +is leading by so many lengths as to make it impossible +for the other to catch up. The leading boat +goes ahead with a straight, splendid swing into clear +water. The losing one, getting into its opponent's +wash, rocks as it labours on, its crew lose heart, and +the distance widens. +</p> + +<p> +Close behind are the umpire's launch and a +dozen others gliding along, keeping just behind +the backward crew. And when all have passed, +the river, so calm before, is churned up into miniature +waves that wash and beat on the banks. +Presently the umpire's boat is seen coming swiftly +back, bearing the winning flag at the bows over +the other. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_204' name='Page_204'>[204]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +The trains move slowly forward to pick up the +passengers; bicycles, motors, and carriages begin +to move off; streams of people pour down every +road; and all is over for another year. +</p> + +<p> +The chief memory of Chiswick is that of Hogarth, +who is buried in the churchyard close by the water. +The house in which he lived is still standing, and +is a few minutes' walk from the church. Hogarth +was here for about three years, though when he +left to go to Leicester Square he did not sell the +house, and his widow lived in it after his death. +For two years Pope also lived in Chiswick; and +in Chiswick House, which lies away from the river +on the other side of the fields, two great men, +Charles James Fox and George Canning, died in +the same room, in 1806 and 1827 respectively. +And in the Roman Catholic Cemetery at Mortlake +is the massive sarcophagus—in the form of an +Arab tent—beneath which lies the dust of the +great traveller, Sir Richard Burton, and his wife. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_205' name='Page_205'>[205]</a></span> +</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER XVIII<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +THE RIVER AT LONDON +</span></h2> + +<div class="figleft"><a name="i395" id="i395"></a> +<img src="images/i-395.jpg" width="328" height="409" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p> +There is a subtle +difference in the +river above and +below Hammersmith: +above, it +is a stream of +pleasure—below, +it is something +less beautiful, but +grander, more +crowded with +memories, more +important. +</p> + +<p> +Though pleasure +boats are to be seen in quantities any summer +evening about Putney; though market gardens +still border the banks at Fulham; yet the river +is for the greater part lined with wharves and +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_206' name='Page_206'>[206]</a></span> +piers and embankments. It is no wild thing +running loose, but a strong worker full of +earnest purpose. It is the great river without +which there would have been no London, the +river which bears the largest trade the world has +ever known. +</p> + +<p> +Unfortunately, the habit of using the river at +London as a highway was lost some time in the +eighteenth century and has not yet been recovered, +notwithstanding the gallant attempt of the London +County Council to educate the people to it. At +one time the river was used for every sort of +traffic: tilt boats, covered with an awning, ran up +and down like omnibuses and charged sixpence a +passenger; and every man of importance kept his +private barge, for the smoothly gliding waters +made an infinitely preferable route to the vile +roads. At every set of stairs—and the stairs +were frequent—numberless wherries awaited hire. +In the sixteenth century there were two thousand +on the water, and it was reckoned that nine +thousand watermen earned their living by transporting +people up and down or from shore to +shore. When it is objected that these men were a +pest and a nuisance, so that we are well rid of them, +that their language was unspeakable and their +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_207' name='Page_207'>[207]</a></span> +manners filthy, it may be replied, <i>autres temps +autres mœurs</i>, for there are a few watermen still +to be had at Westminster, at the Tower, and +at most of the river stairs, and they are civil +and obliging, only, alas, the public rarely patronises +them. Occasionally, an uncommonly adventurous +person, probably a visitor staying in London, +penetrates to the haunt of the watermen, and, +upon inquiry, he finds a respectable man, duly +licensed like a cabman, liable to be reported for +rudeness or misconduct, strictly limited by law +as to the fees he may demand, and ready to add +greatly to the pleasure of the trip by his genial, +shrewd humour and his keen observation; qualities +found frequently in men whose business is upon +great waters. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i399" id="i399"></a> +<img src="images/i-399.jpg" width="550" height="447" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">BEYOND HAMMERSMITH BRIDGE +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Without counting the railways, fourteen bridges +now span the Thames from Hammersmith downward, +and even fourteen we sometimes find +inadequate to our needs in this hurrying life. Not +until the middle of the eighteenth century was +the historic London Bridge backed up by a second. +Before that time, all men crossed by boat, or by +the ferry at Westminster, or even by the ford +there, a feat which the embanking of the river +has long rendered impossible. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_208' name='Page_208'>[208]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +We can see it, this great river of ours, as in +a vision, gradually emerging from its primeval +wilderness. First it spread widely between the +rising ground on each side, a vast area of lagoons, +flooded at high tide, and at low tide a swampy +place full of half-submerged islets. Then one or +two small settlements for trade were planted on +its banks, first at Westminster, and others about +the site of Cannon Street Station, where the +Walbrook leapt to meet the larger current. There +was a gradual extension of houses along the +brink. At last an attempt was made to bridge +the river over, probably by a wooden bridge. +This succeeded, and when the bridge had stood +for some time it was replaced by another in +the twelfth century. This was built and rebuilt, +as the turbulent river, feeling the erection of +earthworks to curtail its flood, fretted to be free, +and rushed seaward with force, tearing down the +obstruction offered by this quaint old London +Bridge with its double line of houses. Many a +picture of this bridge still remains. It was a +fascinating, a wonderful structure. Numberless +children have yearned to have lived there, high +above the flood. What delight to look out from +one's nursery window and see the grey-green +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_209' name='Page_209'>[209]</a></span> +water hastening past. To see it mysteriously +stop as if by some command from on High, then +slowly turn and race inward again. Marvellous +feat! Miraculous bridge! There was a beautiful +chapel, a veritable gem of work, upon this bridge. +There was a house like a puzzle-house, put +together with pegs, without an iron nail in it. +There were gateways at each end, and on the +gateways were the grisly remains of the heads of +men and women who had been executed. There +were shops on each side of the road where ribbons +and laces and other haberdashery might be bought +at will. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i405" id="i405"></a> +<img src="images/i-405.jpg" width="550" height="434" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">THE CUSTOM HOUSE +</p> +</div> + +<p> +There were gaps between the houses, where +one could escape for a moment from the lumbering, +creaking, groaning traffic pent up in the +narrow, mud-splashed roadway, and see the water +itself, and see how the houses were built out +over it, resting on nothing. Another miracle! +A mighty tome might be written about Old +London Bridge; of all the relics of a past London, +it is the one I should like most to have seen. +Mills there were on this bridge, to which the +people could bring their corn to be ground by the +force of the water. Waterworks there were, too, +and the bridge itself contained a drawbridge to +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_210' name='Page_210'>[210]</a></span> +protect London against invasion, for, as there was +none other crossing, an enemy prevented here +might well be held in check altogether. +</p> + +<p> +Next to London Bridge, the oldest bridge across +the river was at Kingston, and it is on record that +in 1554, Sir Thomas Wyatt, finding London +Bridge closed against him, marched all the way +to Kingston in order to cross, but on arrival +there, found that he had been anticipated, and +that the bridge was broken down. +</p> + +<p> +The present London Bridge has been recently +widened. At one end of it rises the white tower +of St. Magnus, a Danish saint, and behind it is +the pointing finger of the Monument, while down +the river are the market of Billingsgate, the quay +of the Custom House, and beyond, rising tall and +ghostly, close to the Tower itself, the Tower Bridge, +the latest addition to the list. +</p> + +<p> +On the south side of London Bridge, over the +houses peep the pinnacles of St. Saviour's tower, +Southwark. Anciently, it was called St. Mary +Overies, and was once a priory, one of the most +ancient houses in London. From this there ran +a ferry, which was in use long after the bridge +was built, for the narrowness of the street and the +continual blocks made a passage by the bridge a +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_211' name='Page_211'>[211]</a></span> +process of time. Gower, the poet, was a benefactor +to the priory, and is buried in the church. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i411" id="i411"></a> +<img src="images/i-411.jpg" width="550" height="451" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">DUTCH BARGES NEAR THE TOWER +</p> +</div> + +<p> +As the Tower Bridge can swing open, ships of +all sizes can get up as far as London Bridge, when +the tide allows them sufficient water-way, and +a busy scene, watched by a never-failing crowd of +idlers, is always to be witnessed in the reach +below. Ships there are of all shapes and sizes, +but mostly hideous, made for merchandise and +not for show. Many of them are iron, and +run between eight and twelve hundred tons. +They come from Hamburg, Hull, Newcastle, +Holland, and many another port. There, out in +the river, is a dredger working with a hideous grinding +noise, and beyond it are two or three brilliantly +painted green and red boats with great wooden +flaps, or lee boards, on their sides. They are +Dutch eel boats, and are allowed to lie in the river +free from dues, if they keep always in the same +place. It is a survival of an ancient custom. +</p> + +<p> +As we pass through under London Bridge, and +come out on the other side, we can see the grey +river with its bustling craft, framed like a series +of pictures in the wide arches. +</p> + +<p> +Some of the oldest theatres in London stood +on the part called Bankside, about Southwark +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_212' name='Page_212'>[212]</a></span> +Bridge; at present the view is dingy and uninteresting. +The Bishop of Winchester's palace once +adjoined Bankside, as that of the Archbishop of +Canterbury, at Lambeth, still stands near Westminster +Bridge; but it fell into ruins and the +bishops removed to Chelsea. +</p> + +<p> +It is impossible to enumerate the palaces and +fine houses that once stood along Thames Street, +which, in the fourteenth century, was the most +fashionable street in London. The part of the +foreshore now occupied by wharves and great +warehouses—where cranes swing and lighters await +their loads all day long, and every working day—has +all been reclaimed from the river. Once it +was covered at every returning tide, but strong +piles were driven into the mud, and on this +unpromising spot houses began to rise and débris +accumulated, until firm ground was made, and +this became one side of a busy street. +</p> + +<p> +On the up-side of Cannon Street, close to the +cavernous jaws of the station, is a wharf marked +in white letters, "Walbrook Wharf." This is as +near as we can get to the first site of London, +where the Briton made his modest lake-fort, +Llyn-din, and afterwards the Romans pitched +their strong citadel. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_213' name='Page_213'>[213]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i417" id="i417"></a> +<img src="images/i-417.jpg" width="440" height="550" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">THE TOWER OF ST. MAGNUS +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Queenhithe was given by King John to his +mother, Queen Eleanor. Hence arose the name. +It was no trifling gift, for this was the most +important dock on the Thames at that time, and +dues were collected from all the ships unlading +here. Now it is a small area in which the water +laps at rotting lichened posts as it slowly uncovers +and re-covers the slimy mud. +</p> + +<p> +The whole of this district lying north of the +Thames is the oldest part of our ancient city, +and it is thick with memories. Down the crooked +streets Spenser came as a boy from his home +beyond the city ditch to his school of the Merchant +Taylors in Dowgate. Here a fair-haired gentle +lad, called Chaucer, loitered many a time, for his +father's house was in Thames Street. +</p> + +<p> +Not far from Puddle dock stood Baynard's +Castle with its high buttressed walls. In it +Edward IV. was proclaimed, and in it, also, +Richard III. made a feint of refusing the crown +belonging to his imprisoned nephew. Tower +Royal, Montfichet, and many another glorious +building, have gone utterly, so that their sites +can be fixed only approximately. The river Fleet, +up which large ships could ply once, flowed into +the Thames where is now Blackfriars Bridge. By +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_214' name='Page_214'>[214]</a></span> +its banks the great religious houses of the Black +and White Friars rose, and the boundary cliff +hewed by its current may still be traced in the +steep rise up Ludgate Hill, which tries the patient +omnibus horses day by day. Over all, as we +draw further up the river, towers the great dome +of St. Paul's. +</p> + +<p> +The Surrey side of the Thames continues +unlovely—a medley of browns and greys, tall +chimneys and tumble-down sheds; it needs the +veil which the atmosphere of London mercifully +throws over it. +</p> + +<p> +The railway bridge and Blackfriars are so close +together, they almost touch. As we pass underneath +there is a hollow reverberation, like the +beat of the surf in a cave on the shore. Just +above the bridge is anchored the <i>Buzzard</i>, the +Naval Volunteer training ship. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i423" id="i423"></a> +<img src="images/i-423.jpg" width="550" height="443" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">ST. PAUL'S +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Along the northern side now begins the +Embankment, with its solid granite walls and +fringe of young planes. The green lawns and +red buildings of the Temple can be seen only +when the river is very high. Further on is +Somerset House, followed by a line of hotels, +the palaces of modern days. Somerset House is +the successor of the palace built by the arrogant +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_215' name='Page_215'>[215]</a></span> +Protector Somerset, from the stones of churches +and religious buildings; between it and the Temple +stood Arundel and Essex Houses. The latter had +earlier been called Leicester House, and Spenser +lived there for a time as secretary to the Earl of +Leicester. +</p> + +<p> +The tide has turned and is coming in. Little +steam tugs, gallantly towing six barges, two +abreast and each twice as large as themselves, pant +up stream; while the bargees, with faces the +colour of brickdust, the colour they are so fond +of reproducing in their paint and even in their +sails, stand by their huge rudders. Some barges +are struggling along without mechanical aid. The +men in charge bend back horizontally in their +manipulation of the huge sweeps. There must be +a knack in it. No one could work so hard as they +seem to be doing; spine and sinews would give +way altogether. Their whole strength results in +but a slow progress, and the barge, responding to +the push of the water, makes a kind of crab-like +movement, sidling up the river broadside on. One, +laden with yellow straw till it appears like a huge +barn, is stranded right in mid-stream. The long +ends of the straw sweep in the water, and there +is no moving until the current increases. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_216' name='Page_216'>[216]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +Here and there red-brown sails, patched and +stained, spring up, and others still furled, stand +up along the wharves like crooked warning fingers. +Just before Waterloo Bridge there is, neatly +tucked away below the Embankment, so that +few ever know of its existence, a station of the +river police, with trim muslin curtains over the +windows. +</p> + +<p> +Between Waterloo and Charing Cross Bridges +the same sort of thing continues. An enormous +chimney on the Surrey side mocks the dignity +of Cleopatra's Needle, now safe in haven after +many vicissitudes. The sweep of the river makes +these two bridges radiate out like the spokes of +a wheel, so that the southern ends are nearer +than the northern. The chimneys and wharves +and the ubiquitous barges still continue, and as +we pass beneath the hideous red iron bridge of +Charing Cross, we get a vision of the many towers +and pinnacles of Westminster ahead. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i429" id="i429"></a> +<img src="images/i-429.jpg" width="550" height="439" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Besides the great houses of old times already +mentioned, there were others down this stretch +of the river too—the Savoy, home of John of +Gaunt, and in its time prison and hospital; +Durham, Worcester, and Salisbury Houses. These +were all either flush with the water or hemmed +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_217' name='Page_217'>[217]</a></span> +in by high walls in which were stairs "to take +water at." The only relic of these mansions +lies in the watergate of York House, now about +a hundred yards from the river, behind a strip +of land which has all been reclaimed by the +making of the Embankment. But that the +Embankment does not always suffice to curb +the current was proved not so long ago, for +in March, 1906, there was a combination of +circumstances which swelled the volume of water +abnormally. Sudden floods of rain caused every +weir far up the river to be opened, and bounding, +exulting to be free, the huge mass of water, +swelled by every brook and tributary and swollen +to twice its usual size, rushed seaward. But it +was met by a high spring tide, and the collision +was increased by a strong wind, so that the water +rose higher and higher, and the curious spectacle +was witnessed of barges floating above the roadway, +propelled by sweeps braced against the +granite walls. The water burst up through the +pavement and the manholes, and ran in a flood +under Charing Cross Bridge, but it just did not +overtop the Embankment wall by an inch or two, +and as the tide subsided the tension relaxed. In +the higher reaches, about Barnes and Chiswick, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_218' name='Page_218'>[218]</a></span> +"tide-boards" were used to fill up the crevices +below the doors, and by this means alone many +a house was saved from being swamped. +</p> + +<p> +The scene is lively enough. Seagulls of all +ages—big dingy drab ones and neat ones in +liveries of dove-grey and white—float merrily on +the ripples, or poise and wheel in the air. Here +a County Council steamer ploughs past, churning +the river into wavelets, there a lad paddles a +boat from shore to shore with a single oar +used rudderwise, a feat possible only to a born +waterman. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i435" id="i435"></a> +<img src="images/i-435.jpg" width="550" height="440" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">WESTMINSTER BY NIGHT +</p> +</div> + +<p> +As we pass on we can see the high bastion +towers of Scotland Yard. Northumberland Avenue +stretches over ground which was once the gardens +of Northumberland House—they came down to +the water—and beyond this were quadrangles +and a medley of buildings, mostly low and +mostly of brick, which formed the palace of +Whitehall, snatched by Henry VIII. from +Wolsey because the royal palace at Westminster +had fallen into decay. The Houses of Parliament, +standing on the site of the latter palace, are +the finest work of Barry, who has been abused +for many things, but who seems to have been +touched by a genuine spirit of architecture in +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_219' name='Page_219'>[219]</a></span> +this instance, and to have realised the right +characteristics of majesty and delicacy in his +work. But he had a noble chance, for the +position of the building, standing on the edge +of the water, with the bridge rising beside it, +gave room for a fine conception. +</p> + +<p> +From Westminster to the Tower or Fleet +prison, how many prisoners have come and +gone—come up against the current full of hope, +and returned of hope bereft! The ghosts are +endless, because the river was the usual mode of +communication between the Tower and the Court +at Westminster, as the Strand was full of holes +and seamed by watercourses. If this reach of +water were to tell its tale, much of the history +of England would be interwoven with it, and +it would be tinged with the bitterest sorrow +human life can know—death with disgrace. +</p> + +<p> +From the time of Edward the Confessor to +the time of Henry VIII., our kings were housed +at Westminster as one of the chief of their royal +palaces. Luckily the Great Hall, which Rufus +built, escaped the fire of 1834, and still may +be seen, but all else, with the exception of the +crypt of St. Stephen's, has vanished utterly. +</p> + +<p> +The time to see the Houses of Parliament +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_220' name='Page_220'>[220]</a></span> +is undoubtedly at night, when Big Ben's +illuminated face sheds a sort of ethereal light +on the architectural fretwork near him. +</p> + +<p> +Wordsworth admired the view most in the +early morning, before the first waking of the +great world of bustle and business: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +The beauty of the morning; silent, bare, +</p> +<p> +Ships, towers, domes, theatres and temples lie +</p> +<p> +Open unto the fields and to the sky, +</p> +<p> +All bright and glittering in the smokeless air. +</p> +<p> +Never did sun more beautifully steep +</p> +<p> +In his first splendour, valley rock or hill; +</p> +<p> +Ne'er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep; +</p> +<p> +The river glideth at his own sweet will. +</p> +<p> +Dear God, the very houses seem asleep; +</p> +<p> +And all that mighty heart is lying still. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +Westminster Bridge is particularly wide, and +has a low parapet. In the sudden gusts of wind +that come sweeping down the river it is a marvel +that no one has been caught up and tossed over +into the rolling green torrent. These peculiarities +also are noticeable when the bridge is seen from +the Embankment, for the traffic looms up very +high on it, and the omnibuses and cabs look almost +as if they were careering along on the parapet +itself. +</p> + +<p> +From Westminster to Lambeth is but a short +way, and what Westminster Palace was, while it +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_221' name='Page_221'>[221]</a></span> +existed, to the lord temporal, so Lambeth has +been, and is, to the lord spiritual; from the very +earliest times the Archbishops of Canterbury have +lodged here. +</p> + +<p> +In our peaceful days the holder of the highest +dignity of the Church has not to fear the Tower +and the "sharp medicine of the axe" as some +of his predecessors did. Laud and Juxon were +executed, and for Cranmer there was the worse +horror of the torturing stake. Lambeth has seen +much cruelty mingled with the name of religion in +the time that it has stood above the flood. The +Lollards, imprisoned within the tower which still +bears their name, made deep incisions on the walls +to wile away the weary hours of suspense, and the +groans of prisoners have been stifled by these walls +as well as by those of the grim Tower. +</p> + +<p> +On the same side as Lambeth, nearer Westminster +Bridge, are the curious detached buildings +of St. Thomas's Hospital, looking like nothing in +the world less than a hospital. +</p> + +<p> +Where Lambeth Bridge is now, was once the +ferry by which King James II. passed when he +made a hurried exit from the kingdom that repudiated +him. It was a bitter night, and, attended +by only one gentleman, the king slipped secretly +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_222' name='Page_222'>[222]</a></span> +out of his palace at Whitehall, and crossing the +Privy Gardens, made his way to the ferry, where +he entered a small boat with a single pair of oars. +In mid-stream he threw the Great Seal into the +water. A curious and dramatic incident this, that +might well be made the subject of a picture by +some historical painter. The Great Seal was afterwards +accidentally drawn up in the net of some +fisherman. But there is another memory further +back still, which gives to this strip of river an +importance which no other part can boast. Here +lay the first ford, to which all the traffic of the +north, on its way to the south coast, had to come. +In the ages before even the oldest London Bridge +was built, a string of pack horses, of weary men +and of travellers, continually wandered down through +the marshes lying around Thorney Island, on which +stands the present Abbey, and, guided by stakes +placed for the purpose, arrived at the river's bank, +there to await low tide, when they could cross over +to the further shore. Through the ages we see +them continuing, and when England was Christianised, +to the procession were added monks and +pilgrims bent on holy missions. When London +Bridge was built, a great majority of the age-long +procession was diverted that way, but many still +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_223' name='Page_223'>[223]</a></span> +continued to prefer the ancient ford at Westminster. +Of course, since the Embankment was made, +and the river no longer wanders uncurbed over the +lowlands and meadows of Westminster, the current +runs deep and strong and no fording is possible. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i443" id="i443"></a> +<img src="images/i-443.jpg" width="550" height="446" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">HAY BARGES NEAR WESTMINSTER BRIDGE +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Above Lambeth we pass the Tate Gallery and +the new bridge at Vauxhall, and then traverse a +dreary strip of river, dreary on both sides, until we +come near to Chelsea Bridge. This is a high-swinging +and imposing bridge of the same type as +the Albert Bridge further up. How different the +Chelsea we see now from the ancient Chelsea. +Ours is a Chelsea mainly of red brick, with many +tall flats and many beautifully designed houses in +pseudo-ancient style. A long line of planes runs +along the embankment, which is one of the prettiest +embankments on the river. The gardens and green +lawns of the Royal Hospital reach to the roadway, +and away behind them at some distance can be +seen the comparatively low and long range of +buildings dating from the time of the Stuarts, and +forming an asylum for old soldiers. On the strip +of ground to the east of them once stood Ranelagh, +the gay rotunda which played such a part in all +London flirtations; where misses met their beaux +and walked round in stately steps to the sound of +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_224' name='Page_224'>[224]</a></span> +music. The breakfasts at Ranelagh were at one +time almost as popular as the evening entertainments: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +A thousand feet rustled on mats, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + A carpet that had once been green; +</p> +<p> +Men bowed with their outlandish hats, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + With corners so fearfully keen; +</p> +<p> +Fair maids, who at home in their haste +</p> +<p class="i1"> + Had left all clothing else but a train, +</p> +<p> +Swept the floor clean as slowly they paced, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + And then walked round and swept it again. +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +Thus Bloomfield satirically described the scene. +Ranelagh plays a large part in <i>Evelina</i> and other +romances of that date. The last public entertainment +was given in 1803, and of the gay rotunda +with its gorgeous fittings not a vestige now remains. +</p> + +<p> +High red-brick flats which stand at the foot of +the Royal Hospital gardens by the river, are +succeeded by smaller houses, and beyond the +Albert Bridge the district has not yet been transformed, +as it assuredly will be. +</p> + +<p> +In the small public gardens that face the river +there is a bronze statue of Carlyle, the Sage of +Chelsea, and not far off rises the curious little +tower of dark brick that belongs to the old church, +a very mausoleum of tombs. Chelsea has, perhaps, +been more altered by the formation of the Embankment +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_225' name='Page_225'>[225]</a></span> +than any other part of the river. Its very +name implies a bank of shingly beach stretching +down to the water, and so it was in old times, and +to this beach the gardens of the stately palaces +reached. Chelsea has been called a village of +palaces. A village it was in old times, quite +detached from London, and considered a country +residence by many a famous nobleman and statesman. +On the site of the row of houses in Cheyne +Walk stood the New Manor House built by Henry +VIII. as part of the jointure of Catherine Parr, +who afterwards lived here with her fourth husband, +Thomas Seymour, Lord High Admiral. Both +Princess Elizabeth and Lady Jane Grey spent part +of their childhood in it. The palace of the Bishops +of Winchester, at Southwark, having become +dilapidated, as we have seen, a new one was built +at Chelsea in 1663, and was occupied by eight +successive bishops. Shrewsbury House was another +palace built in the reign of Henry VIII. The +wife of the Earl of Shrewsbury was the founder of +Chatsworth, Oldcotes and Hardwick. In Lawrence +or Monmouth House, near the church, lived +Smollett the novelist, and further on, somewhere +near the end of Beaufort Street, was the house +once occupied by Sir Thomas More, whose memory +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_226' name='Page_226'>[226]</a></span> +is still cherished in Chelsea. No garden among all +the famous gardens of Chelsea was so carefully +tended as his. When More had been made Lord +Chancellor, and had spent his days hearing cases in +the stuffy precincts of the court, how joyfully must +he have stepped into his barge in the cool of the +evening, to be rowed back up-stream to his roses +and his children, where he could indulge his kindly +humour and his playfulness, and unbend without +fear. Sometimes the royal barge would sweep up +after him, and the tyrant Harry himself spring +ashore and walk up and down the sweet-scented +alleys, with his arm round the Chancellor's neck, a +dangerous fondness that in time resulted in More's +being cut off altogether from his garden and his +peaceful evenings, and in his going down that +stream never to return. His monument is in the +church, with an inscription written by himself, but +whether his body lies here is a question that can +never be definitely answered. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i451" id="i451"></a> +<img src="images/i-451.jpg" width="550" height="435" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">CHELSEA REACH WITH THE OLD CHURCH +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Beyond Battersea Bridge is a little creek, and +from a small house on the other side of the road +Turner used to look out upon the river. He came +here incognito from his real house in Queen Anne +Street, and studied the gorgeous sunset effects, +which can be seen nowhere better than at Chelsea. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_227' name='Page_227'>[227]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p> +Now in his palace of the west, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + Sinking to slumber, the bright day, +</p> +<p> +Like a tired monarch fanned to rest, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + Mid the cool airs of evening lay; +</p> +<p> +While round his couch's golden rim +</p> +<p class="i1"> + The golden clouds like courtiers crept, +</p> +<p> +Struggling each other's light to dim, +</p> +<p class="i1"> + And catch his last smile ere he slept. +</p> + +</div> +<div class="stanza"> +<p class="rjust"> +—<i>Moore.</i> +</p> +</div></div></div> + +<p> +Turner brings us to modern memories. Besides +himself and Carlyle, there lived in Chelsea, Rossetti +and George Eliot, not to mention living men. +</p> + +<p> +Opposite Chelsea is the long wall that bounds +Battersea Park, and after passing Battersea Bridge, +we encounter a very unlovely strip of water, with +wharves and chimneys and tumble-down buildings. +It is utilitarian and not beautiful. +</p> + +<p> +The green embankment which hems in the +grounds of Hurlingham Club gives a touch of +relief, and the fine trees which existed long before +the club, since the time that the house was a +private mansion, rise towering above it. On the +other side the river Wandle, from which Wandsworth +takes its name, a river known to few, empties +itself into the Thames. Then we reach Putney +Bridge, with its wide, curved white arches. On +the east is another embankment which bounds +Bishop's Park, partly turned into pleasure gardens +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_228' name='Page_228'>[228]</a></span> +open to all the world. The palace itself is not well +seen from the river, for it is low and hidden by +trees. +</p> + +<p> +The manor of Fulham has belonged to the See +of London since the end of the seventh century. +The palace is built round two courtyards, the +older of which dates from Henry VII.'s reign, +and the other from the middle of the eighteenth +century. The west or river side contains the rooms +used by Laud while he was bishop. +</p> + +<p> +As we draw away from the bridge we see to +advantage the two churches, curiously alike, one +belonging to Putney and the other to Fulham, +which stand at two corners of the bridge, diagonally, +looking at one another. Boat-houses and flats fill +up the western shore until they are succeeded by +the trees of Barn Elms Park, otherwise known as +Ranelagh. The chief memories of Ranelagh centre +about the Kit-Kat Club, which met here, and +included among the members such men as Walpole, +Vanbrugh, Congreve, Addison and Steele. Their +portraits were all painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller, +and hung round the club room; consequently, this +particular size of portrait, 36 inches by 28, became +known as a kit-kat. The name of the club itself +is said to have originated in a pastrycook named +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_229' name='Page_229'>[229]</a></span> +Christopher Kat, who used to make excellent +mutton pies, called Kit-Kats, which were always +included in the bill of fare at club dinners. +</p> + +<p> +Many a visit did Evelyn and Pepys and other +notable Londoners make to Barn Elms in summer +evenings in the seventeenth century. Pepys was +particularly fond of idling under the well-grown +trees. Hear him: +</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p> +After dinner, by water, the day being mighty pleasant, +and the tide serving finely, I up as high as Barne Elmes +and there took one turn alone. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +This was in April; and another time: +</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p> +I walked the length of the Elmes, and with great +pleasure saw some gallant ladies and people come with +their bottles and baskets and chairs, to sup under the trees +by the water-side, which was mighty pleasant. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +On the opposite side of the river from Barn Elms +stood Brandenburg House, where lived Queen +Caroline, unhappy consort of George IV. +</p> + +<p> +Below Hammersmith Bridge there is a very +untidy bit of foreshore, with factories and chimneys +and many dreary objects scattered about it, and +always a superfluity of clumsy barges. Beyond +the fine suspension bridge there is another bit of +foreshore not quite so untidy, where racing boats +and other boats lie, and from which many a crew +turns out to practice. Along this stretch runs the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_230' name='Page_230'>[230]</a></span> +Mall, Upper and Lower. In the coffee house +near the junction of the two, Thomson wrote +"Winter," in <i>The Seasons</i>. +</p> + +<p> +The Mall is associated with the Kelmscott Press, +founded by William Morris, who named it after his +country house. Turner lived in the Mall for six +years, and the novelist Marryat was a resident for +a short time in 1830. Here also was a large house +occupied by Catherine of Braganza after the death +of Charles II. The river at Hammersmith is 750 +feet wide. The inhabitants make the bridge a +favourite lounging place, for seats line both sides; +the total amount of fresh air thus imbibed no man +can calculate, for the tide races up bringing ozone +straight from the sea, and the wind blows freshly +over the glittering water. On the south bank are +the reservoirs of a large water company. +</p> + +<p> +With Hammersmith we must end this chapter, +for we have joined the account of the stream of +pleasure which comes down to London. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_231' name='Page_231'>[231]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i457" id="i457"></a> +<img src="images/i-457.jpg" width="513" height="342" alt="" /> + +</div> + +<h2> +CHAPTER XIX<br /><br /> +<span class="s08"> +OUR NATIONAL POSSESSION +</span></h2> + +<p> +The Thames is a great national possession, +affording means of recreation and delight to +thousands yearly. It is difficult to compare it +with anything else in Great Britain. It stands +by itself, and is unique. Other rivers there are, +which for a small part of their course are +excellent for boating; but there is nothing +in England to equal the Thames, where the +water is now kept at a high level, and where, +for the 112 miles between London Bridge and +Oxford, there is practically continuous beauty and +convenience for boating. The reproach has been +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_232' name='Page_232'>[232]</a></span> +brought against us that we do not make full use +of our river at London as the Parisians do of the +Seine at Paris. But the two things are not on the +same footing at all. There are many problems in +connection with the Thames as a tidal river that +have not to be solved by the Parisians in regard +to the Seine. Perhaps if the great barrage at +Gravesend, which has been discussed, ever comes +into existence, we shall be able to remove the +reproach, to run our steamboats to time, and to use +the river as a river of pleasure, even so far down as +London Bridge. There are, however, grave objections +to the barrage scheme, which for the present +has been set aside. Though the tides interfere with +pleasure boats, they are a source of motive power +for innumerable barges; the river traffic would +be seriously hindered by the elimination of the +element of tide, and many owners of wharves +and quays would be injured by the change. +There are also other difficulties. At present the +sewage, after being dealt with by filtration in +sewage-beds, is returned to the river, and, having +been rendered innocuous, floats out to sea, and +mingles with the pure water satisfactorily. It +would, however, be another thing to return +thousands of gallons of water, which, however +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_233' name='Page_233'>[233]</a></span> +innocuous, can hardly be called clean, to the great +lake of fresh water the river would become if +dammed up by a barrage. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i461" id="i461"></a> +<img src="images/i-461.jpg" width="550" height="441" alt="" /> +<p class="caption">FROM BATTERSEA BRIDGE +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Yet the continual increase in the size of ships, +and the consequent demand for a river ever deeper, +is a source of perplexity to the Thames Conservancy. +This involves constant dredging, which +would not be necessary were a perpetual high tide +to be maintained. It is true that this dredging in +some parts is a source of profit, not of expense. +Thames gravel is exceedingly valuable, and it is +found to be worth while for men not only to buy +and maintain large dredgers down near the river +mouth, but to pay a rent of something like £1500 +to the Conservancy for the privilege of doing so! +The dredging, however, is not all so profitable. +Where the river-bed is slime and mud, the channel +has to be kept clear by dredgers at the expense of +the Conservancy, and no delightful rents accrue +from the process. This dredging is altogether rather +an interesting matter. In some places it is found +remunerative enough for men to do it by hand +for the sake of what they bring up, and they obtain +leave to go dredging. +</p> + +<p> +It is a fact not realised by everyone that the +whole river, and all the craft upon it are under the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_234' name='Page_234'>[234]</a></span> +strictest surveillance. Everything that floats must +be licensed and carry its number for purposes of +ready identification. The barges seen lying about +in shoals near Westminster or Waterloo Bridges +are not lying haphazard, but in certain specified +places marked by buoys and allotted by the Conservancy, +much as cabstands are allotted by the +police. It is true that quays, wharves, landing +stages, etc., being on land, are not subject to the +Conservancy, which is in the somewhat anomalous +position of dealing with the water, but not with +the banks that hem it in. Yet the Conservancy +manages to have a finger in this too, for suppose +a man buys a bit of the river's bank, and erects a +boat-building establishment thereon, he is obviously +at a loss without steps down to the water or a +landing place, and for this he has to pay rent to +the Conservancy. The amusing part of it is that a +man's property is sometimes in the air. In the case +of a tree growing out of the water, it would truly +tax the judgment of a Solomon to say what the +rights of the Conservancy are toward that tree; but +it is held that if the tree constitutes any danger or +obstruction to the river-way the Conservators may +insist on its being lopped. In connection with this +a curious case sometimes arises. Man is always +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_235' name='Page_235'>[235]</a></span> +cunning where his own interests are concerned. It +is not only to one man that the idea has occurred +of propping up his overhanging tree by a stake. +And, if the stake remains for any length of time, +silt and rubbish collect between it and the shore, +and eventually the island or the land of the cunning +man is enlarged by a foot or two! More; sometimes +stakes have been planted in the river bed with +the same object without even excuse of the tree. +It is the duty of the Conservancy officials to +deal with all such stakes. +</p> + +<p> +Whatever may be alleged as to our neglect of +the river at London, no such charge can be brought +against us in our appreciation of it higher up. Day +by day, in the summer, hundreds enjoy the air and +the brilliance and the interest of the river reaches. +House-boats are moored, permission and licences +having been obtained, and men and women +practically live in the open air for weeks together. +The house-boats are not allowed to anchor +everywhere, but are allotted certain stations, due +regard being had to the width of the river. If +they plant themselves near private ground they +must gain the permission of the owner, as well as +of the Conservancy, which is quite reasonable. +</p> + +<p> +To preserve an unimpeded channel may be taken +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_236' name='Page_236'>[236]</a></span> +as one of the great duties of the Conservancy. For +this reason they have power to remove snags; to +prevent the egotistical punt-fisher from placing his +punt broadside in the midmost current; and to +regulate the rules for the passing of craft. It is +rather amusing to see sometimes how the punt +man edges his craft as far from the bank as he dare +before he sits down on his cane-bottomed chair +and sorts out his tackle; but if a Conservancy +official come along, and, eyeing him, decides, in +spite of his extreme innocency and unconsciousness, +that he has encroached too far, back he has +to go. It is a perpetual game. +</p> + +<p> +In regard to the fishing, most of the Thames +is free; and the coarse fishing—bream, dace, chub, +and so on—is good of its kind. Here and there, +as at Hedsor, there is a bit preserved. For the +commonsense view is taken that, if both banks +belong to the same owner, the river bed belongs +also to him, and likewise the fishing. He cannot, +however, prevent boats from passing up and down +the stream flowing through his property, or the +highway would be a highway no more. The fishery +in the Thames has of late years greatly improved, +owing to the disinterested action of many clubs +and associations in putting in stock which they +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_237' name='Page_237'>[237]</a></span> +cannot hope subsequently to reclaim, but which, +once gone into the water, belongs to everyone +alike. An instance of this occurred recently, when +300 trout (<i>Salmo fario</i>), about fourteen inches +long, were put into the Thames at Shepperton +Weir in March by the Weybridge, Shepperton, +and Halliford Thames Trout Stocking Association. +These trout cost 2s. 6d. each! There is good coarse +fishing in nearly all parts of the Thames; bream, +dace, chub, perch, and pike can generally be +caught. +</p> + +<p> +There are many curious and interesting points +in regard to the river, and none more interesting +than those relating to the tow-path. This venerable +and ancient right-of-way still remains, crossing and +recrossing from side to side as occasion demands, +but traversable from end to end. As, however, +it passes through private grounds by far the greater +part of the way, it <i>is</i> private, and yet public. +Bicycles are frequently forbidden by stern notices +put up by owners, who yet cannot prevent the +pedestrian. The Conservancy has no power over +the tow-path. What, then, happens when a part +of the tow-path gives way and requires making +up again? In theory it is the owner's duty to +do it; but it would be expecting rather more +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_238' name='Page_238'>[238]</a></span> +than is warranted of human nature to expect an +owner, who must regard the right-of-way with +dislike and suspicion, to incur expense by mending +it. As a matter of fact, if he does not do it, the +Conservancy does. It may be remarked here that +a very simple and effective way of embanking, +known as "camp-shedding," is often employed +about the river banks and the projecting points +of lock islands which are liable to be carried +away by the current. This consists in dropping +large bags of dry cement into the water. The +water itself consolidates and hardens the stuff, +which becomes a splendid barrier. +</p> + +<p> +There is another point in connection with the +breaking away of the tow-path which is still +more perplexing. Supposing it breaks away from +a private owner's land in such a way that it cannot +be built up again, but must be carried inland, what +right has the public to say, "My right-of-way has +fallen into the water, so I am going to take some +of your land to replace it"? Apparently none at +all. Yet the tow-path must be carried on. One +wonders how, in the beginning, it was allotted to +one side or the other. How was it that one owner +said, "My lawns must slope right down to the +water's edge; therefore I will not have the tow-path +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_239' name='Page_239'>[239]</a></span> +on my side; let it go upon the other?" +And why has it never happened that two owners, +equally strong and equally determined, have both +flatly refused it? Be that as it may, the tow-path +runs its tortuous but continuous course, and will +continue to run as long as the river flows. +</p> + +<p> +Such things as locks and weirs are, of course, +entirely in the power of the Conservancy, who pay +the keepers and regulate the fees. The half-tide +lock at Richmond has answered admirably so far +(<i>see</i> <a href="#Page_196">p. 196</a>); but the question is, Where is this +sort of thing going to stop? There is an idea +now of a similar lock at Wandsworth, and then +we come to the matter of the barrage. We are so +greedy of our river, we want it to be pent up, +and not allowed to flow away to the sea. Weirs +of some sort, which were at first called locks, are +very ancient. In the end of the twelfth century +we find orders respecting them. +</p> + +<p> +Stow tells us that about the year 1578 or 1579 +there were twenty-three "locks," sixteen mills, +sixteen floodgates and seven weirs on the river +between Maidenhead and Oxford. In the next +six years thirty more locks and weirs had been +made in spite of complaints that many persons +had been drowned "by these stoppages of the +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_240' name='Page_240'>[240]</a></span> +water." He adds that "the going up the locks was +so steep that every year cables had been broken +that cost £400." Especial complaint was made +about Marlow lock, where one man had had his +brains dashed out, and Stow remarks that all the +compensation the widow received was £5! The +barges were not charged for going up but only for +coming down, and a barge passing from Oxford to +London in Stow's time paid £12 18<i>s.</i> This was +in the summer, when the water was low. In +1585 a petition was made to Queen Elizabeth "in +the name of the widows and fatherless children +whose parents and husbands were by these means +slain, against the great mischief done to her +loving subjects by the great number of dangerous +locks, weirs, mills and floodgates unlawfully +erected in many places on the river." Queen +Elizabeth must have known something of the +subject from her early acquaintance with Bisham. +(<i>See</i> <a href="#Page_105">Chap. XI</a>.) +</p> + +<p> +In an old book of 1770 we find this passage: +"The locks were machines of wood placed across +the river, and so contrived to hold the water as long +as convenient, that is, till the water rises to such +a height as to allow of depth enough for the barge +to pass over the shallows, which being effected, +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_241' name='Page_241'>[241]</a></span> +the water is set at liberty, and the loaded vessel +proceeds on its voyage till another shoal requires +the same convenience to carry it forward. This +arrangement was in the summer when the water +was low; in other seasons the locks were removed." +</p> + +<p> +When the present locks were made they were +called "pound" locks; a great many of them were +opened between 1770 and 1780. +</p> + +<p> +The members of the Conservancy Board go up +in their launch several times a year to see that +all is in order, and that their officials are doing +their duty. Once a year they penetrate beyond +Oxford, where the launch cannot go, and they +have to take to rowing boats. They are not +supposed to preserve the amenities of the river, +but only its highway properties. They have no +power to remove unsightlinesses, such as hideous +advertisement boards; but only obstructions. Yet, +in keeping the river free from sewage contamination; +by forbidding the casting of refuse into the +current from house-boats or elsewhere; by exercising +a general jurisdiction, which makes people +realise they are not free to amuse themselves to +the annoyance of their neighbours—no doubt the +amenities are very much more preserved than they +would otherwise be. +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_242' name='Page_242'>[242]</a></span> +</p> + +<p> +Stow ends up his account of the river: "And +thus, as this fine river is of great use and profit to +the city, so the many neat towns and seats on the +banks of it make it extraordinary pleasant and +delightful. So that the citizens and gentlemen, +nay kings, have in the summer time usually taken +the air by water; being carried in boats and barges +along the Thames, both upward and downward +according to their pleasures." +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_243' name='Page_243'>[243]</a></span> +</p> + +<h2> +INDEX +</h2> + +<ul class="none"> +<li> +Abbey Hotel, Medmenham, <a href="#Page_126">126</a> +</li> + +<li> +Abbey River, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a> +</li> + +<li> +à Becket, Thomas, <a href="#Page_67">67</a> +</li> + +<li> +Aberlash, <a href="#Page_74">74</a> +</li> + +<li> +Abingdon, <a href="#Page_37">37</a> +</li> + +<li> +Abingdon Abbey, <a href="#Page_41">41</a> +</li> + +<li> +Adam, <a href="#Page_199">199</a> +</li> + +<li> +Addison, <a href="#Page_228">228</a> +</li> + +<li> +Albert Bridge, <a href="#Page_223">223</a> +</li> + +<li> +Ankerwyke Park, <a href="#Page_157">157</a> +</li> + +<li> +Archbishop Laud, <a href="#Page_71">71</a> +</li> + +<li> +Arnold, Dr., of Rugby, <a href="#Page_167">167</a> +</li> + +<li> +Arnold, Matthew, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a> +</li> + +<li> +Arragon, Katherine of, <a href="#Page_196">196</a> +</li> + +<li> +Arundel House, <a href="#Page_215">215</a> +</li> + +<li> +Athens, <a href="#Page_149">149</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Bankside, <a href="#Page_211">211</a> +</li> + +<li> +Barbour, Geoffrey, <a href="#Page_39">39</a> +</li> + +<li> +Barges, <a href="#Page_234">234</a> +</li> + +<li> +Barn Elms Park, <a href="#Page_228">228</a> +</li> + +<li> +Barrage, <a href="#Page_232">232</a> +</li> + +<li> +Barrington Shute, <a href="#Page_56">56</a> +</li> + +<li> +Barry, <a href="#Page_218">218</a> +</li> + +<li> +Battersea Bridge, <a href="#Page_226">226</a> +</li> + +<li> +Baynard's Castle, <a href="#Page_213">213</a> +</li> + +<li> +Bell Weir Lock, <a href="#Page_159">159</a> +</li> + +<li> +Benson Lock, <a href="#Page_59">59</a> +</li> + +<li> +Billingsgate, <a href="#Page_210">210</a> +</li> + +<li> +Birds, <a href="#Page_17">17</a> +</li> + +<li> +Birinus, <a href="#Page_50">50</a> +</li> + +<li> +Bisham Abbey, <a href="#Page_112">112</a> +</li> + +<li> +Bisham Church, <a href="#Page_111">111</a> +</li> + +<li> +Bishop of Winchester's Palace, <a href="#Page_212">212</a> +</li> + +<li> +Bishop's Park, <a href="#Page_227">227</a> +</li> + +<li> +Blackfriars Bridge, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a> +</li> + +<li> +Bloomfield, <a href="#Page_224">224</a> +</li> + +<li> +Blount, Sir Arthur, <a href="#Page_66">66</a> +</li> + +<li> +Boat Race, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a> +</li> + +<li> +Boleyn, Anne, <a href="#Page_158">158</a> +</li> + +<li> +Bolney Court, <a href="#Page_84">84</a> +</li> + +<li> +Borlase, Sir John, <a href="#Page_127">127</a> +</li> + +<li> +Boulter's Lock, <a href="#Page_128">128</a> +</li> + +<li> +Bourne End, <a href="#Page_139">139</a> +</li> + +<li> +Boveney Lock, <a href="#Page_150">150</a> +</li> + +<li> +Boyle Farm, <a href="#Page_185">185</a> +</li> + +<li> +Bradshaw, <a href="#Page_175">175</a> +</li> + +<li> +Braganza, Catherine of, <a href="#Page_230">230</a> +</li> + +<li> +Brandenburg House, <a href="#Page_229">229</a> +</li> + +<li> +Bray, <a href="#Page_152">152</a> +</li> + +<li> +Bray Lock, <a href="#Page_151">151</a> +</li> + +<li> +Brent River, <a href="#Page_200">200</a> +</li> + +<li> +Brentford, <a href="#Page_200">200</a> +</li> + +<li> +Bridges: +<ul class="sub"> + <li>Battersea, <a href="#Page_226">226</a></li> + <li>Blackfriars, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> + <li>Charing Cross, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> + <li>Chelsea, <a href="#Page_223">223</a></li> + <li>Folly, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> + <li>Hammersmith, <a href="#Page_229">229</a></li> + <li>Lambeth, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> + <li>London,210</li> + <li>Old London, <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li> + <li>Putney, <a href="#Page_227">227</a></li> + <li>Tower, <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li> + <li>Walton, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> + <li>Waterloo, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> +</ul></li> + +<li> +Brightwell Barrow, <a href="#Page_49">49</a> +</li> + +<li> +Buckingham, Duke of, <a href="#Page_137">137</a> +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_244' name='Page_244'>[244]</a></span> +</li> + +<li> +Burford Bridge, <a href="#Page_38">38</a> +</li> + +<li> +Burney, Miss, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a> +</li> + +<li> +Burton, Sir Richard, <a href="#Page_204">204</a> +</li> + +<li> +Bushey Park, <a href="#Page_181">181</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Cæsar, Julius, <a href="#Page_172">172</a> +</li> + +<li> +"Camp-shedding," 238 +</li> + +<li> +Canning, George, <a href="#Page_204">204</a> +</li> + +<li> +Carfax Monument, <a href="#Page_36">36</a> +</li> + +<li> +Carlyle, <a href="#Page_224">224</a> +</li> + +<li> +Caversham, <a href="#Page_71">71</a> +</li> + +<li> +Charing Cross Bridge, <a href="#Page_216">216</a> +</li> + +<li> +Charles I., <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a> +</li> + +<li> +Charles II., <a href="#Page_127">127</a> +</li> + +<li> +Chaucer, <a href="#Page_213">213</a> +</li> + +<li> +Chelsea Bridge, <a href="#Page_223">223</a> +</li> + +<li> +Chelsea Embankment, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a> +</li> + +<li> +Chertsey, <a href="#Page_168">168</a> +</li> + +<li> +Chertsey Abbey, <a href="#Page_168">168</a> +</li> + +<li> +Cherwell, <a href="#Page_26">26</a> +</li> + +<li> +Chestnut Sunday, <a href="#Page_181">181</a> +</li> + +<li> +Chiswick, <a href="#Page_201">201</a> +</li> + +<li> +Chiswick House, <a href="#Page_204">204</a> +</li> + +<li> +Christ's Hospital, Abingdon, <a href="#Page_40">40</a> +</li> + +<li> +Cleeve Lock, <a href="#Page_59">59</a> +</li> + +<li> +Cleopatra's Needle, <a href="#Page_216">216</a> +</li> + +<li> +Clieveden, <a href="#Page_136">136</a> +</li> + +<li> +Clifton Hampden, <a href="#Page_45">45</a> +</li> + +<li> +Climenson, Mrs., <a href="#Page_96">96</a> +</li> + +<li> +Coln River, <a href="#Page_159">159</a> +</li> + +<li> +Compleat Angler Hotel, Marlow, <a href="#Page_107">107</a> +</li> + +<li> +Congreve, <a href="#Page_228">228</a> +</li> + +<li> +Conway, Field-Marshal, <a href="#Page_102">102</a> +</li> + +<li> +Cookham, <a href="#Page_138">138</a> +</li> + +<li> +Cooper's Hill, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a> +</li> + +<li> +Cornish, J. C., <a href="#Page_85">85</a> +</li> + +<li> +Countess of Nottingham, <a href="#Page_195">195</a> +</li> + +<li> +Countess of Suffolk, <a href="#Page_193">193</a> +</li> + +<li> +Cowley, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a> +</li> + +<li> +Cowley Stakes, <a href="#Page_172">172</a> +</li> + +<li> +Cranmer, <a href="#Page_221">221</a> +</li> + +<li> +Cromwell, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a> +</li> + +<li> +Crowmarsh, <a href="#Page_54">54</a> +</li> + +<li> +Cuckoo Weir, <a href="#Page_149">149</a> +</li> + +<li> +Culham, <a href="#Page_42">42</a> +</li> + +<li> +Custom House, <a href="#Page_210">210</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Damer, Mrs., <a href="#Page_99">99</a> +</li> + +<li> +Danesfield, <a href="#Page_124">124</a> +</li> + +<li> +Datchet, <a href="#Page_146">146</a> +</li> + +<li> +Day, Thomas, <a href="#Page_82">82</a> +</li> + +<li> +Day's Lock, <a href="#Page_47">47</a> +</li> + +<li> +Denham, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a> +</li> + +<li> +Denham, Sir John, <a href="#Page_146">146</a> +</li> + +<li> +Despencer, Lord Le, <a href="#Page_126">126</a> +</li> + +<li> +Ditton House, <a href="#Page_185">185</a> +</li> + +<li> +Donne, Dr., <a href="#Page_190">190</a> +</li> + +<li> +Dorchester, <a href="#Page_49">49</a> +</li> + +<li> +Dorchester Abbey, <a href="#Page_51">51</a> +</li> + +<li> +Dowgate, <a href="#Page_213">213</a> +</li> + +<li> +D'Oyley, Robert, <a href="#Page_53">53</a> +</li> + +<li> +D'Oyley, Sir Cope, <a href="#Page_103">103</a> +</li> + +<li> +Drayton, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a> +</li> + +<li> +Dredging, <a href="#Page_233">233</a> +</li> + +<li> +Druce, Claridge G., <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a> +</li> + +<li> +Duc d'Aumale, <a href="#Page_192">192</a> +</li> + +<li> +Duchess of York, <a href="#Page_171">171</a> +</li> + +<li> +Dudley, Robert, <a href="#Page_196">196</a> +</li> + +<li> +Duke of Buckingham, <a href="#Page_137">137</a> +</li> + +<li> +Duke of Gloucester, <a href="#Page_192">192</a> +</li> + +<li> +Duke of Marlborough, <a href="#Page_150">150</a> +</li> + +<li> +Duke of York, <a href="#Page_172">172</a> +</li> + +<li> +Duke's Meadows, <a href="#Page_201">201</a> +</li> + +<li> +Durham House, <a href="#Page_216">216</a> +</li> + +<li> +Dyers' Company, <a href="#Page_122">122</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Earl of Essex, <a href="#Page_196">196</a> +</li> + +<li> +Earl of Leicester, <a href="#Page_215">215</a> +</li> + +<li> +Edward IV., <a href="#Page_213">213</a> +</li> + +<li> +Edward VI., <a href="#Page_180">180</a> +</li> + +<li> +Edward Plantagenet, <a href="#Page_113">113</a> +</li> + +<li> +Edward the Confessor, <a href="#Page_140">140</a> +</li> + +<li> +Eel-pie Island, <a href="#Page_191">191</a> +</li> + +<li> +Eights, The, <a href="#Page_28">28</a> +</li> + +<li> +Eliot, George, <a href="#Page_227">227</a> +</li> + +<li> +Embankment, The, <a href="#Page_214">214</a> +</li> + +<li> +Empress Maud, <a href="#Page_67">67</a> +</li> + +<li> +Essex, Earl of, <a href="#Page_196">196</a> +</li> + +<li> +Essex House, <a href="#Page_215">215</a> +</li> + +<li> +Eton, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a> +</li> + +<li> +Evelyn, <a href="#Page_229">229</a> +</li> + +<li> +Exe River, <a href="#Page_175">175</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Fair Maid of Kent, <a href="#Page_54">54</a> +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_245' name='Page_245'>[245]</a></span> +</li> + +<li> +Faringford, Hugh, <a href="#Page_69">69</a> +</li> + +<li> +Fawley Court, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a> +</li> + +<li> +Ferry Hotel, Cookham, <a href="#Page_138">138</a> +</li> + +<li> +Fielding, Henry, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a> +</li> + +<li> +Fingest, <a href="#Page_103">103</a> +</li> + +<li> +Fishing, <a href="#Page_236">236</a> +</li> + +<li> +Fleet River, <a href="#Page_213">213</a> +</li> + +<li> +Floods, <a href="#Page_217">217</a> +</li> + +<li> +Flora of Oxfordshire, <a href="#Page_62">62</a> +</li> + +<li> +Folly Bridge, <a href="#Page_25">25</a> +</li> + +<li> +Forbury Public Garden, Reading, <a href="#Page_70">70</a> +</li> + +<li> +Fox, Charles James, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a> +</li> + +<li> +Frogmill, <a href="#Page_125">125</a> +</li> + +<li> +Fulham Palace, <a href="#Page_228">228</a> +</li> + +<li> +Fuller, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Garrick's Villa, <a href="#Page_183">183</a> +</li> + +<li> +Gaunt, John of, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a> +</li> + +<li> +Gaveston, Piers, <a href="#Page_54">54</a> +</li> + +<li> +Gay, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a> +</li> + +<li> +General description, <a href="#Page_9">9</a> ff +</li> + +<li> +George III., <a href="#Page_98">98</a> +</li> + +<li> +George IV., <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_172">172</a> +</li> + +<li> +George Hotel, Bray, <a href="#Page_154">154</a> +</li> + +<li> +George Hotel, Wargrave, <a href="#Page_82">82</a> +</li> + +<li> +Gloucester, Duke of, <a href="#Page_192">192</a> +</li> + +<li> +Goring, <a href="#Page_57">57</a> +</li> + +<li> +Goring Church, <a href="#Page_61">61</a> +</li> + +<li> +Gray, <a href="#Page_5">5</a> +</li> + +<li> +Great Hall, Westminster, <a href="#Page_219">219</a> +</li> + +<li> +Great Marlow, <a href="#Page_106">106</a> +</li> + +<li> +Great Western Railway, <a href="#Page_8">8</a> +</li> + +<li> +Greenhill, <a href="#Page_60">60</a> +</li> + +<li> +Greenlands, <a href="#Page_103">103</a> +</li> + +<li> +Greenwich Palace, <a href="#Page_6">6</a> +</li> + +<li> +Grey, Lady Jane, <a href="#Page_198">198</a> +</li> + +<li> +Gwynne, Nell, <a href="#Page_127">127</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Halliford, <a href="#Page_175">175</a> +</li> + +<li> +Ham House, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a> +</li> + +<li> +Hambleden, <a href="#Page_103">103</a> +</li> + +<li> +Hammersmith Bridge, <a href="#Page_229">229</a> +</li> + +<li> +Hampton, <a href="#Page_177">177</a> +</li> + +<li> +Hampton Court, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a> +</li> + +<li> +Hampton Green, <a href="#Page_182">182</a> +</li> + +<li> +Hardwicke House, <a href="#Page_65">65</a> +</li> + +<li> +Harp Hill, <a href="#Page_48">48</a> +</li> + +<li> +Hartslock Woods, <a href="#Page_62">62</a> +</li> + +<li> +Hedsor Church, <a href="#Page_138">138</a> +</li> + +<li> +Henley, <a href="#Page_97">97</a> +</li> + +<li> +Henley Regatta, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a> +</li> + +<li> +Henry I., <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a> +</li> + +<li> +Henry V., <a href="#Page_195">195</a> +</li> + +<li> +Henry VI., <a href="#Page_169">169</a> +</li> + +<li> +Henry VII., <a href="#Page_195">195</a> +</li> + +<li> +Henry VIII., <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a> +</li> + +<li> +Hoby, Sir Thomas, <a href="#Page_111">111</a> +</li> + +<li> +Hogarth, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a> +</li> + +<li> +Holme Park, <a href="#Page_75">75</a> +</li> + +<li> +Home Park, <a href="#Page_145">145</a> +</li> + +<li> +Hook, Theodore, <a href="#Page_184">184</a> +</li> + +<li> +Horton, <a href="#Page_158">158</a> +</li> + +<li> +Hotels, <a href="#Page_18">18</a> +</li> + +<li> +House-boats, <a href="#Page_235">235</a> +</li> + +<li> +Houses of Parliament, <a href="#Page_218">218</a> +</li> + +<li> +Howard, Katherine, <a href="#Page_198">198</a> +</li> + +<li> +Hurley, <a href="#Page_116">116</a> +</li> + +<li> +Hurlingham Club, <a href="#Page_227">227</a> +</li> + +<li> +Hurst Park Racecourse, <a href="#Page_182">182</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Icknield Street, <a href="#Page_59">59</a> +</li> + +<li> +Iffley, <a href="#Page_29">29</a> +</li> + +<li> +Isleworth, <a href="#Page_197">197</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +James II., <a href="#Page_221">221</a> +</li> + +<li> +James Stuart, <a href="#Page_143">143</a> +</li> + +<li> +Joan, <a href="#Page_54">54</a> +</li> + +<li> +John, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a> +</li> + +<li> +Johnson, Dr., <a href="#Page_183">183</a> +</li> + +<li> +Jones, Inigo, <a href="#Page_199">199</a> +</li> + +<li> +Juxon, <a href="#Page_221">221</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Kelmscott Press, <a href="#Page_230">230</a> +</li> + +<li> +Kempenfelt, Admiral, <a href="#Page_120">120</a> +</li> + +<li> +Kew Gardens, <a href="#Page_199">199</a> +</li> + +<li> +Kew Observatory, <a href="#Page_197">197</a> +</li> + +<li> +Kew Palace, <a href="#Page_6">6</a> +</li> + +<li> +<i>Kingis Quair</i>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a> +</li> + +<li> +King's Stone, <a href="#Page_187">187</a> +</li> + +<li> +Kingston, <a href="#Page_186">186</a> +</li> + +<li> +Kingston Rowing Club, <a href="#Page_186">186</a> +</li> + +<li> +Kit-Kat Club, <a href="#Page_228">228</a> +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_246' name='Page_246'>[246]</a></span> +</li> + +<li> +Kneller, Sir Godfrey, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Lady Place, <a href="#Page_116">116</a> +</li> + +<li> +Laleham, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a> +</li> + +<li> +Lambeth Bridge, <a href="#Page_221">221</a> +</li> + +<li> +Lambeth Palace, <a href="#Page_221">221</a> +</li> + +<li> +Laud, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a> +</li> + +<li> +Leicester, Earl of, <a href="#Page_215">215</a> +</li> + +<li> +Leicester House, <a href="#Page_215">215</a> +</li> + +<li> +Leland, <a href="#Page_78">78</a> +</li> + +<li> +Llyn-din, <a href="#Page_212">212</a> +</li> + +<li> +Locks, <a href="#Page_239">239</a> +<ul class="sub"> + <li>Bell Weir, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></li> + <li>Benson, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> + <li>Boulter's, <a href="#Page_128">128</a></li> + <li>Boveney, <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> + <li>Bray, <a href="#Page_157">157</a></li> + <li>Cleeve, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> + <li>Marsh, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li> + <li>Teddington, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> + <li>Temple, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></li> +</ul></li> + +<li> +Loddon River, <a href="#Page_92">92</a> +</li> + +<li> +London and South Western Railway, <a href="#Page_9">9</a> +</li> + +<li> +London Bridge, <a href="#Page_210">210</a> +</li> + +<li> +London Stone, <a href="#Page_159">159</a> +</li> + +<li> +Long Ditton, <a href="#Page_185">185</a> +</li> + +<li> +Long Mead, <a href="#Page_157">157</a> +</li> + +<li> +Louis Philippe, <a href="#Page_192">192</a> +</li> + +<li> +Lower Hope, <a href="#Page_149">149</a> +</li> + +<li> +Lower Mall, <a href="#Page_230">230</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Macaulay, <a href="#Page_120">120</a> +</li> + +<li> +Magna Charta Island, <a href="#Page_155">155</a> +</li> + +<li> +Maidenhead, <a href="#Page_132">132</a> +</li> + +<li> +Mapledurham House, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a> +</li> + +<li> +Marble Hill, <a href="#Page_193">193</a> +</li> + +<li> +Marlborough, Duke of, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a> +</li> + +<li> +Marryat, <a href="#Page_230">230</a> +</li> + +<li> +Marsh Lock, <a href="#Page_102">102</a> +</li> + +<li> +Medmenham Abbey, <a href="#Page_125">125</a> +</li> + +<li> +Merchant Taylors' School, <a href="#Page_213">213</a> +</li> + +<li> +Milton, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a> +</li> + +<li> +Mole River, <a href="#Page_184">184</a> +</li> + +<li> +Molesey Lock, <a href="#Page_182">182</a> +</li> + +<li> +Molesey Regatta, <a href="#Page_184">184</a> +</li> + +<li> +Mongewell, <a href="#Page_56">56</a> +</li> + +<li> +Monkey Island, <a href="#Page_150">150</a> +</li> + +<li> +Monmouth House, <a href="#Page_225">225</a> +</li> + +<li> +Montfichet, <a href="#Page_213">213</a> +</li> + +<li> +Moore, Thomas, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a> +</li> + +<li> +More, Sir Thomas, <a href="#Page_225">225</a> +</li> + +<li> +Morris, William, <a href="#Page_230">230</a> +</li> + +<li> +Mortlake, <a href="#Page_202">202</a> +</li> + +<li> +Mount Lebanon, <a href="#Page_192">192</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Naval Volunteer Training Ship, <a href="#Page_214">214</a> +</li> + +<li> +New Cut, <a href="#Page_27">27</a> +</li> + +<li> +Northumberland Avenue, <a href="#Page_218">218</a> +</li> + +<li> +Northumberland House, <a href="#Page_218">218</a> +</li> + +<li> +Nottingham, Countess of, <a href="#Page_195">195</a> +</li> + +<li> +Nuneham Courtney, <a href="#Page_35">35</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Oatlands Park, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a> +</li> + +<li> +Obstructions, <a href="#Page_234">234</a> +</li> + +<li> +Old Deer Forest, <a href="#Page_197">197</a> +</li> + +<li> +Old London Bridge, <a href="#Page_208">208</a> +</li> + +<li> +Old Windsor, <a href="#Page_146">146</a> +</li> + +<li> +Orleans House, <a href="#Page_191">191</a> +</li> + +<li> +Oxford, <a href="#Page_7">7</a> +</li> + +<li> +Oxford Meadows, <a href="#Page_32">32</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Pang River, <a href="#Page_64">64</a> +</li> + +<li> +Pangbourne, <a href="#Page_63">63</a> +</li> + +<li> +Park Place, <a href="#Page_102">102</a> +</li> + +<li> +Parr, Catherine, <a href="#Page_225">225</a> +</li> + +<li> +Penton Hook, <a href="#Page_161">161</a> +</li> + +<li> +Pepys, <a href="#Page_229">229</a> +</li> + +<li> +Phyllis Court, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a> +</li> + +<li> +Pope, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a> +</li> + +<li> +Pope's Villa, <a href="#Page_189">189</a> +</li> + +<li> +Prince de Joinville, <a href="#Page_192">192</a> +</li> + +<li> +Prince Henry, <a href="#Page_193">193</a> +</li> + +<li> +Princess Elizabeth, <a href="#Page_225">225</a> +</li> + +<li> +Puddle Dock, <a href="#Page_213">213</a> +</li> + +<li> +Punting competition, <a href="#Page_170">170</a> +</li> + +<li> +Putney Bridge, <a href="#Page_227">227</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Quarry Woods, <a href="#Page_109">109</a> +</li> + +<li> +Queen Anne, <a href="#Page_192">192</a> +</li> + +<li> +Queen Caroline, <a href="#Page_229">229</a> +</li> + +<li> +Queen Eleanor, <a href="#Page_213">213</a> +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_247' name='Page_247'>[247]</a></span> +</li> + +<li> +Queen Elizabeth, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_240">240</a> +</li> + +<li> +Queen Mary, <a href="#Page_180">180</a> +</li> + +<li> +Queen Maud, <a href="#Page_54">54</a> +</li> + +<li> +Queenhithe, <a href="#Page_213">213</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Radley College Boat-house, <a href="#Page_34">34</a> +</li> + +<li> +Ranelagh, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a> +</li> + +<li> +Raven's Ait, <a href="#Page_186">186</a> +</li> + +<li> +Ray Mead Hotel, Maidenhead, <a href="#Page_135">135</a> +</li> + +<li> +Reading Abbey, <a href="#Page_67">67</a> +</li> + +<li> +Reading Castle, <a href="#Page_70">70</a> +</li> + +<li> +Red Lion Hotel, Henley, <a href="#Page_98">98</a> +</li> + +<li> +Richard II., <a href="#Page_195">195</a> +</li> + +<li> +Richard III., <a href="#Page_213">213</a> +</li> + +<li> +Richmond, <a href="#Page_194">194</a> +</li> + +<li> +Richmond Palace, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a> +</li> + +<li> +Rivers: +<ul class="sub"> + <li>Abbey, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li> + <li>Brent, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> + <li>Coln, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></li> + <li>Exe, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> + <li>Fleet, <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + <li>Loddon, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> + <li>Mole, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li> + <li>Pang, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> + <li>Thame, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> + <li>Wandle, <a href="#Page_227">227</a></li> + <li>Wey, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> +</ul></li> + +<li> +Robsart, Amy, <a href="#Page_196">196</a> +</li> + +<li> +Rodney, Admiral, <a href="#Page_175">175</a> +</li> + +<li> +Romney Island, <a href="#Page_148">148</a> +</li> + +<li> +Rose Garden, Sonning, <a href="#Page_72">72</a> +</li> + +<li> +Rossetti, <a href="#Page_227">227</a> +</li> + +<li> +Royal Hospital, Chelsea, <a href="#Page_223">223</a> +</li> + +<li> +Runney Mead, <a href="#Page_156">156</a> +</li> + +<li> +Rupert, Prince, <a href="#Page_201">201</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +St. Anne's Hill, <a href="#Page_170">170</a> +</li> + +<li> +St. Helen's Nunnery, Abingdon, <a href="#Page_40">40</a> +</li> + +<li> +St. Mary Overies, <a href="#Page_210">210</a> +</li> + +<li> +St. Patrick's Stream, <a href="#Page_92">92</a> +</li> + +<li> +St. Saviour's, <a href="#Page_210">210</a> +</li> + +<li> +St. Thomas's Hospital, <a href="#Page_221">221</a> +</li> + +<li> +Salisbury House, <a href="#Page_216">216</a> +</li> + +<li> +Sandford, <a href="#Page_33">33</a> +</li> + +<li> +Savoy, The, <a href="#Page_216">216</a> +</li> + +<li> +Scotland Yard, <a href="#Page_218">218</a> +</li> + +<li> +Seagulls, <a href="#Page_218">218</a> +</li> + +<li> +Seymour, Thomas, <a href="#Page_225">225</a> +</li> + +<li> +Shelley, <a href="#Page_106">106</a> +</li> + +<li> +Shenstone, <a href="#Page_99">99</a> +</li> + +<li> +Shepperton, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a> +</li> + +<li> +Shiplake, <a href="#Page_95">95</a> +</li> + +<li> +Shrewsbury House, <a href="#Page_225">225</a> +</li> + +<li> +Sinodun Hill, <a href="#Page_48">48</a> +</li> + +<li> +Skindle's Hotel, Maidenhead, <a href="#Page_133">133</a> +</li> + +<li> +Smith, Rt. Hon. W. H., <a href="#Page_103">103</a> +</li> + +<li> +Smith, Sydney, <a href="#Page_78">78</a> +</li> + +<li> +Smollett, <a href="#Page_225">225</a> +</li> + +<li> +Somerset, Lord-Protector, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a> +</li> + +<li> +Somerset House, <a href="#Page_214">214</a> +</li> + +<li> +Sonning, <a href="#Page_72">72</a> +</li> + +<li> +Spenser, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a> +</li> + +<li> +Staines, <a href="#Page_159">159</a> +</li> + +<li> +Star and Garter Hotel, Richmond, <a href="#Page_194">194</a> +</li> + +<li> +Steele, <a href="#Page_228">228</a> +</li> + +<li> +Stephen, <a href="#Page_54">54</a> +</li> + +<li> +Stokenchurch, <a href="#Page_103">103</a> +</li> + +<li> +Stow, <a href="#Page_239">239</a> +</li> + +<li> +Strawberry Hill, <a href="#Page_188">188</a> +</li> + +<li> +Streatley, <a href="#Page_57">57</a> +</li> + +<li> +Sunbury, <a href="#Page_175">175</a> +</li> + +<li> +Surbiton, <a href="#Page_186">186</a> +</li> + +<li> +Surley Hill, <a href="#Page_150">150</a> +</li> + +<li> +Sutton Courtney, <a href="#Page_43">43</a> +</li> + +<li> +Sutton Pool, <a href="#Page_43">43</a> +</li> + +<li> +Swan Hotel, Thames Ditton, <a href="#Page_184">184</a> +</li> + +<li> +Swans, <a href="#Page_121">121</a> +</li> + +<li> +Swift, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a> +</li> + +<li> +Syon House, <a href="#Page_197">197</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Tagg's Island, <a href="#Page_182">182</a> +</li> + +<li> +Taplow, <a href="#Page_132">132</a> +</li> + +<li> +Tate Gallery, <a href="#Page_223">223</a> +</li> + +<li> +Teddington Lock, <a href="#Page_187">187</a> +</li> + +<li> +Temple, <a href="#Page_214">214</a> +</li> + +<li> +Temple Island, <a href="#Page_101">101</a> +</li> + +<li> +Temple Lock, <a href="#Page_115">115</a> +</li> + +<li> +Temple Mill, <a href="#Page_115">115</a> +</li> + +<li> +Tennyson, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a> +<span class='pagenum'><a id='Page_248' name='Page_248'>[248]</a></span> +</li> + +<li> +Terry, Ellen, <a href="#Page_166">166</a> +</li> + +<li> +Thame, The, <a href="#Page_52">52</a> +</li> + +<li> +Thames Conservancy, <a href="#Page_233">233</a> +</li> + +<li> +Thames, derivation of, <a href="#Page_4">4</a> +</li> + +<li> +Thames Ditton, <a href="#Page_184">184</a> +</li> + +<li> +Thames Gardens, <a href="#Page_19">19</a> +</li> + +<li> +Thomson, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a> +</li> + +<li> +Thorney Island, <a href="#Page_222">222</a> +</li> + +<li> +Torpids, The, <a href="#Page_29">29</a> +</li> + +<li> +Tow-path, <a href="#Page_237">237</a> +</li> + +<li> +Tower, <a href="#Page_210">210</a> +</li> + +<li> +Tower Bridge, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_211">211</a> +</li> + +<li> +Tower Royal, <a href="#Page_213">213</a> +</li> + +<li> +Turner, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a> +</li> + +<li> +Twickenham, <a href="#Page_191">191</a> +</li> + +<li> +Twickenham Reach, <a href="#Page_188">188</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Upper Hope, <a href="#Page_149">149</a> +</li> + +<li> +Upper Mall, <a href="#Page_230">230</a> +</li> + +<li> +Upper Thames Sailing Club, <a href="#Page_139">139</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Vanbrugh, <a href="#Page_228">228</a> +</li> + +<li> +Vauxhall Bridge, <a href="#Page_223">223</a> +</li> + +<li> +Vintners' Company, <a href="#Page_122">122</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +Walbrook, <a href="#Page_208">208</a> +</li> + +<li> +Walbrook Wharf, <a href="#Page_212">212</a> +</li> + +<li> +Walker, Frederick, <a href="#Page_153">153</a> +</li> + +<li> +Wallingford, <a href="#Page_53">53</a> +</li> + +<li> +Walpole, Horace, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a> +</li> + +<li> +Walton Bridge, <a href="#Page_173">173</a> +</li> + +<li> +Walton Church, <a href="#Page_174">174</a> +</li> + +<li> +Walton, Izaak, <a href="#Page_147">147</a> +</li> + +<li> +Wandle River, <a href="#Page_227">227</a> +</li> + +<li> +Wandsworth, <a href="#Page_227">227</a> +</li> + +<li> +Warbeck, Perkin, <a href="#Page_196">196</a> +</li> + +<li> +Wargrave, <a href="#Page_80">80</a> +</li> + +<li> +Warwick, "King Maker," 113 +</li> + +<li> +Waterloo Bridge, <a href="#Page_216">216</a> +</li> + +<li> +Watermen, <a href="#Page_206">206</a> +</li> + +<li> +Weirs, <a href="#Page_239">239</a> +</li> + +<li> +Westminster Abbey, <a href="#Page_222">222</a> +</li> + +<li> +Westminster Bridge, <a href="#Page_220">220</a> +</li> + +<li> +Westminster Palace, <a href="#Page_6">6</a> +</li> + +<li> +Wey River, <a href="#Page_171">171</a> +</li> + +<li> +Weybridge, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a> +</li> + +<li> +Whitchurch, <a href="#Page_63">63</a> +</li> + +<li> +Whitehall, <a href="#Page_218">218</a> +</li> + +<li> +Whitehall Palace, <a href="#Page_6">6</a> +</li> + +<li> +White Hart Hotel, Sonning, <a href="#Page_74">74</a> +</li> + +<li> +Whitehill, <a href="#Page_60">60</a> +</li> + +<li> +Wigod, <a href="#Page_53">53</a> +</li> + +<li> +William the Conqueror, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a> +</li> + +<li> +William III., <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a> +</li> + +<li> +Winchester House, <a href="#Page_225">225</a> +</li> + +<li> +Windsor Castle, <a href="#Page_140">140</a> +</li> + +<li> +Wittenham, Little, <a href="#Page_47">47</a> +</li> + +<li> +Wittenham Woods, <a href="#Page_47">47</a> +</li> + +<li> +Wolsey, <a href="#Page_178">178</a> +</li> + +<li> +Worcester House, <a href="#Page_216">216</a> +</li> + +<li> +Wordsworth, <a href="#Page_220">220</a> +</li> + +<li> +Wotton, Sir Henry, <a href="#Page_147">147</a> +</li> + +<li> +Wren, Sir Christopher, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a> +</li> + +<li> +Wyatt, Sir Thomas, <a href="#Page_210">210</a> +</li> + +<li class="alpha"> +York, Duchess of, <a href="#Page_171">171</a> +</li> + +<li> +York, Duke of, <a href="#Page_172">172</a> +</li> + +<li> +York House, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a> +</li> +</ul> + +<p class="center p4"> +<i>Printed by</i> <span class='smcap'>Geo. W. Jones, Limited</span>, <i>Watford</i>. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter p6"><a name="i479" id="i479"></a> +<img src="images/i-479.jpg" width="550" height="338" alt="" /> +<p class="caption"> +<i>Sketch Map of the</i> +THAMES +<i>from</i> OXFORD <i>to</i> LONDON +</p> + +<p class="caption s08"> +MAP ACCOMPANYING "THE THAMES" BY MORTIMER MENPES AND G. E. MITTON. PUBLISHED BY A. AND C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON +</p> +<p class="caption"><a href="images/i-479lg.jpg">View larger image</a></p> +</div> + +<table summary="Ads" class="p6" border="1"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2"> +<span class="b13">BEAUTIFUL BOOKS</span><br /> +<span class="b12">ILLUSTRATED IN COLOUR</span><br /> +<span class="b12">BY MORTIMER MENPES</span><br /> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><span class="b11"><b>JAPAN</b></span><br /> +WITH <b>100</b> FULL-PAGE +ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR<br /> +<span class="i1"><span class='smcap'>Price</span> <b>20s.</b> <span class='smcap'>Net</span></span> +</td> +<td> +<b>The Times.</b>—"Mr. Menpes's pictures are here +given in most perfect facsimile, and they form altogether +a series of colour impressions of Japan which +may fairly be called unrivalled. Even without the +narrative they would show that Mr. Menpes is an +enthusiast for Japan, her art and her people; and very +few European artists have succeeded in giving such +complete expression to an admiration in which all +share." +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><span class="b11"><b>INDIA</b></span><br /> +WITH <b>75</b> FULL-PAGE +ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR<br /> +<span class="i1"><span class='smcap'>Price</span> <b>20s.</b> <span class='smcap'>Net</span></span> +</td> +<td> +<b>The Evening Standard.</b>—"This sumptuous book +is the result of an ideal collaboration, for the artist is +at his best with colour schemes and atmospheric +impressions, such as we find in his famous 'Japan' +and 'Durbar' books; while Mrs. Steel has not only +the saving grace of imagination, but is able by the +sympathy and wise knowledge gained by a long +residence in India to write a text of more than +ordinary charm." +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><span class="b11"><b>THE DURBAR</b></span><br /> +WITH <b>100</b> FULL-PAGE +ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR<br /> +<span class="i1"><span class='smcap'>Price</span> <b>20s.</b> <span class='smcap'>Net</span></span> +</td> +<td> +<b>Morning Post.</b>—"This splendid book will be +accepted by all as the best realisation of an epoch-making +ceremony that we are ever likely to get." +<br /> +<b>The Academy.</b>—"Unquestionably the best pictorial +representation of the Durbar which has +appeared." +<br /> +<b>The Globe.</b>—"Likely to be the most brilliant and +lasting record of the historical occasion." +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><span class="b11"><b>VENICE</b></span><br /> +WITH <b>100</b> FULL-PAGE +ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR<br /> +<span class="i1"><span class='smcap'>Price</span> <b>20s.</b> <span class='smcap'>Net</span></span> +</td> +<td> +<b>The King.</b>—"Within the last few years the industry +of contemporary writers, some with and others without +a genuine sympathy for their subject, has helped us to +glimpses of the Queen of the Adriatic, through the +spectacles of art, history, archæology, poetry, and +romance; but the <i>Magnum Opus</i> of Mortimer Menpes +embraces to a great degree all five points of view, and +persuades us that at last (and that not a day too soon) +the stones of Venice have found at once a painter and +a writer equally worthy of the vanished glories, the +memories of which still cling to every church, palace, +or bridge drawn or described in this charming +work." +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><span class="b11"><b>BRITTANY</b></span><br /> +WITH <b>75</b> FULL-PAGE +ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR<br /> +<span class="i1"><span class='smcap'>Price</span> <b>20s.</b> <span class='smcap'>Net</span></span> +</td> +<td> +<b>Pall Mall Gazette.</b>—"It is of course the picturesque +aspects of Brittany that appeal to Mr. Menpes.... +Whether he paints cottage interiors or peasant +types, straggling village streets and coast-town alleys, +or a market-place bustling and baking in the sunshine, +it is all one to his graceful pencil; and reproduced, as +the drawings are, by his own colour-process, they make +another of those many charming albums of travel +which Messrs. Black have made a special province of +their own." +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><span class="b11"><b>WORLD +PICTURES</b></span><br /> +WITH <b>500</b> ILLUSTRATIONS +(<b>50</b> IN COLOUR)<br /> +<span class="i1"><span class='smcap'>Price</span> <b>20s.</b> <span class='smcap'>Net</span></span> +</td> +<td> +<b>The Scotsman.</b>—"Mr. Menpes has been a wanderer +over the face of the earth armed with brush and +pencil, and he has brought back with him portfolios +filled with samples of the colour and sunshine, and of +the life and form, quaint or beautiful, of the most +famous countries of the East and of the West, and +his charming book is a kind of album into which he +has gathered the cream of an artist's memories and +impressions of the many countries he has visited and +sketched in." +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><span class="b11"><b>THE WORLD'S +CHILDREN</b></span><br /> +WITH <b>100</b> FULL-PAGE +ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR<br /> +<span class="i1"><span class='smcap'>Price</span> <b>20s.</b> <span class='smcap'>Net</span></span> +</td> +<td> +<b>The Times.</b>—"Of the cleverness, both of the +pictures and letterpress, there can be no doubt. Miss +Menpes's short papers on the children of different +lands are full of insight, human and fresh experience; +and Mr. Menpes's 100 pictures ... are above all +remarkable for their extraordinary variety of treatment, +both in colour scheme and in the pose and +surroundings of the subject." +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><span class="b11"><b>WAR +IMPRESSIONS</b></span><br /> +WITH <b>99</b> FULL-PAGE +ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR<br /> +<span class="i1"><span class='smcap'>Price</span> <b>20s.</b> <span class='smcap'>Net</span></span> +</td> +<td> +<b>Daily Telegraph.</b>—"One hardly knows which to +admire the more—the skill of the artist or the skill +with which his studies have been reproduced, for the +colours of the originals are shown with marvellous +fidelity, and the delicate art of the impressionist loses +nothing in the process. The book, therefore, is a +double triumph, and will therefore be prized by +collectors." +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><span class="b11"><b>WHISTLER AS +I KNEW HIM</b></span><br /> +WITH <b>125</b> FULL-PAGE +ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR +AND TINT<br /> +<span class="i1"><span class='smcap'>Price</span> <b>40s.</b> <span class='smcap'>Net</span></span> +</td> +<td> +<span class='smcap'>Haldane Macfall</span> in <b>The Academy</b>.—"No one +who loves the Art of Whistler should be without this +handsome book; it contains works of Art of exquisite +beauty; it contains a delightful picture of the outward +Whistler that the man himself wished to be mistaken +for the real thing—half butterfly, half wasp, wholly +laughing enigma." +<br /> +<b>The Observer.</b>—"A singularly illuminating and +intimate monograph." +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><span class="b11"><b>REMBRANDT</b></span><br /> +WITH <b>16</b> FULL-PAGE +ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR<br /> +<span class="i1"><span class='smcap'>Price</span> <b>12s. 6d.</b> <span class='smcap'>Net</span></span> +</td> +<td> +<b>Aberdeen Free Press.</b>—"The illustrations are +magnificent examples of the perfection to which +reproduction in colour is carried by Mr. Menpes, and +the book as a whole is of very special interest." +<br /> +<b>British Weekly.</b>—"An invaluable collection of +superb reproductions of Rembrandt's work. The +book is a most desirable possession." +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2"> +<span class='smcap'>Published by</span> ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK · SOHO SQUARE · LONDON · W. +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44794 ***</div> +</body> +</html> + diff --git a/44794-h/images/cover.jpg b/44794-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dcd950a --- /dev/null +++ b/44794-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/44794-h/images/i-004.jpg b/44794-h/images/i-004.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3d96145 --- /dev/null +++ b/44794-h/images/i-004.jpg diff --git a/44794-h/images/i-007.jpg b/44794-h/images/i-007.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..01bcff4 --- /dev/null +++ b/44794-h/images/i-007.jpg diff --git a/44794-h/images/i-009.jpg b/44794-h/images/i-009.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dc83819 --- /dev/null +++ b/44794-h/images/i-009.jpg diff --git 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