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+   <title>
+      Stanley in Africa, by James P. Boyd&mdash; A Project Gutenberg eBook
+   </title>
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Stanley in Africa, by James P. Boyd
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Stanley in Africa
+       The Wonderful Discoveries and Thrilling Adventures of the
+              Great African Explorer, and Other Travelers, Pioneers and
+              Missionaries
+
+Author: James P. Boyd
+
+Release Date: February 1, 2014 [EBook #44816]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STANLEY IN AFRICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Henry Gardiner, Geetu Melwani, Kathryn Lybarger,
+Nick Wall and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian
+Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<div class="trnote-top">
+
+<p>Transcriber’s Note: The original publication has been replicated faithfully except as listed
+<a href="#Changes" name="Start" id="Start">here</a>.</p>
+
+<p>In most web browsers the text conforms to changes in window size.</p>
+</div>
+
+<!--001.png-->
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 422px;">
+<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="422" height="600"
+  alt="Book cover." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/frontis.jpg" width="600" height="401"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a id="COLUMBIA_PRESENTING"></a>COLUMBIA PRESENTING STANLEY TO EUROPEAN
+SOVEREIGNS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<!--002.png-->
+
+<h1>
+STANLEY<br />
+<br />
+<small>IN</small><br /><br />
+AFRICA.
+</h1>
+
+<div class="c2"><small>THE</small><br />
+<br />
+WONDERFUL DISCOVERIES<br />
+<br />
+<small>AND</small><br />
+<br />
+THRILLING ADVENTURES<br />
+<br />
+<small>OF</small><br />
+<br />
+THE GREAT AFRICAN EXPLORER<br />
+<br />
+<small>AND OTHER</small><br />
+<br />
+TRAVELERS, PIONEERS AND MISSIONARIES.</div>
+
+<div class="c3">BEAUTIFULLY AND ELABORATELY ILLUSTRATED WITH<br />
+<br />
+ENGRAVINGS, COLORED PLATES AND MAPS</div>
+
+<div class="c2"><small>BY</small><br />
+<br />
+JAMES P. BOYD, A.M.</div>
+
+<div class="c3">Author of “Political History of the United States” and<br />
+“Life of Gen. U. S. Grant,” etc.</div>
+
+<div class="c2">ROSE PUBLISHING CO.,<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Toronto, Canada</span>.</div>
+
+<!--003.png-->
+
+<div class="center">Copyright, 1889<br />
+<br />
+<small>BY</small><br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">James P. Boyd</span>.</div>
+
+<!--004.png-->
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<h2>
+INTRODUCTION.
+</h2>
+
+<p>A volume of travel, exploration and adventure is never without
+instruction and fascination for old and young. There is that within us
+all which ever seeks for the mysteries which are bidden behind mountains,
+closeted in forests, concealed by earth or sea, in a word, which are
+enwrapped by Nature. And there is equally that within us which is touched
+most sensitively and stirred most deeply by the heroism which has
+characterized the pioneer of all ages of the world and in every field of
+adventure.</p>
+
+<p>How like enchantment is the story of that revelation which the New
+America furnished the Old World! What a spirit of inquiry and exploit it
+opened! How unprecedented and startling, adventure of every kind became!
+What thrilling volumes tell of the hardships of daring navigators or of
+the perils of brave and dashing landsmen! Later on, who fails to read
+with the keenest emotion of those dangers, trials and escapes which
+enveloped the intrepid searchers after the icy secrets of the Poles, or
+confronted those who would unfold the tale of the older civilizations and
+of the ocean’s island spaces.</p>
+
+<p>Though the directions of pioneering enterprise change, yet more and more
+man searches for the new. To follow him, is to write of the wonderful.
+Again, to follow him is to read of the surprising and the thrilling. No
+prior history of discovery has ever exceeded in vigorous entertainment
+and startling interest that which centers in “The Dark Continent” and has
+for its most distinguished hero, Henry M. Stanley. His coming and going
+in the untrodden and<!--005.png--> hostile wilds of Africa, now to rescue the stranded
+pioneers of other nationalities, now to explore the unknown waters of
+a mighty and unique system, now to teach cannibal tribes respect for
+decency and law, and now to map for the first time with any degree of
+accuracy, the limits of new dynasties, make up a volume of surpassing
+moment and peculiar fascination.</p>
+
+<p>All the world now turns to Africa as the scene of those adventures which
+possess such a weird and startling interest for readers of every class,
+and which invite to heroic exertion on the part of pioneers. It is the
+one dark, mysterious spot, strangely made up of massive mountains, lofty
+and extended plateaus, salt and sandy deserts, immense fertile stretches,
+climates of death and balm, spacious lakes, gigantic rivers, dense
+forests, numerous, grotesque and savage peoples, and an animal life of
+fierce mien, enormous strength and endless variety. It is the country of
+the marvelous, yet none of its marvels exceed its realities.</p>
+
+<p>And each exploration, each pioneering exploit, each history of adventure
+into its mysterious depths, but intensifies the world’s view of it and
+enhances human interest in it, for it is there the civilized nations are
+soon to set metes and bounds to their grandest acquisitions&mdash;perhaps in
+peace, perhaps in war. It is there that white colonization shall try its
+boldest problems. It is there that Christianity shall engage in one of
+its hardest contests.</p>
+
+<p>Victor Hugo says, that “Africa will be the continent of the twentieth
+century.” Already the nations are struggling to possess it. Stanley’s
+explorations proved the majesty and efficacy of equipment and force amid
+these dusky peoples and through the awful mazes of the unknown. Empires
+watched with eager eye the progress of his last daring journey. Science
+and civilization stood ready to welcome its results. He comes to light
+again, having escaped ambush, flood, the wild beast and disease, and
+his revelations set the world aglow. He is greeted by kings, hailed by
+savants, and looked to by the colonizing nations as the future pioneer of
+political power and commercial enterprise in their behalf, as he has been
+the most redoubtable leader of adventure in the past.</p>
+
+<!--006.png-->
+
+<p>This miraculous journey of the dashing and intrepid explorer, completed
+against obstacles which all believed to be insurmountable, safely ended
+after opinion had given him up as dead, together with its bearings on the
+fortunes of those nations who are casting anew the chart of Africa, and
+upon the native peoples who are to be revolutionized or exterminated by
+the last grand surges of progress, all these render a volume dedicated to
+travel and discovery, especially in the realm of “The Dark Continent,”
+surprisingly agreeable and useful at this time.</p>
+
+<!--007.png-->
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 575px;">
+<img src="images/i_004.jpg" width="575" height="338"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a id="MARCHING_THROUGH_EQUATORIAL_AFRICA"></a>
+  MARCHING THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA.</span>
+<a href="images/i_004x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><!--008.png--><span class="pagenum">5</span></p>
+
+<h2>
+CONTENTS.
+</h2>
+
+<div class="s">
+  <big>HENRY M. STANLEY, <span class="flr"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></span></big>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hi">
+
+<p>Stanley is safe; the world’s rejoicings; a new volume in African
+annals; who is “this wizard of travel?” story of Stanley’s life;
+a poor Welsh boy; a work-house pupil; teaching school; a sailor
+boy; in a New Orleans counting-house; an adopted child; bereft
+and penniless; a soldier of the South; captured and a prisoner;
+in the Federal Navy; the brilliant correspondent; love of travel
+and adventure; dauntless amid danger; in Asia-Minor and Abyssinia;
+at the court of Spain; in search of Livingstone; at Ujiji on
+Tanganyika; the lost found; across the “dark continent;” down the
+dashing Congo; boldest of all marches; acclaim of the world.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="s p2">
+  <big>THE CONGO FREE STATE, <span class="flr"><a href="#Page_27">27</a></span></big>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hi">
+
+<p>A Congo’s empire; Stanley’s grand conception; European ambitions; the
+International Association; Stanley off for Zanzibar; enlists his
+carriers; at the mouth of the Congo; preparing to ascend the river;
+his force and equipments; the river and river towns; hippopotamus
+hunting; the big chiefs of Vivi; the “rock-breaker;” founding
+stations; making treaties; tribal characteristics; Congo scenes;
+elephants, buffaloes and water-buck; building houses and planting
+gardens; making roads; rounding the portages; river crocodiles and
+the steamers; foraging in the wilderness; products of the country;
+the king and the gong; no more war fetish; above the cataracts;
+Stanley<!--009.png--><span class="pagenum">6</span>
+Pool and Leopoldville; comparison of Congo with
+other rivers; exploration of the Kwa; Stanley sick; his return to
+Europe; further plans for his “Free State;” again on the Congo;
+Bolobo and its chiefs; medicine for wealth; a free river, but
+no land; scenery on the upper Congo; the Watwa dwarfs; the lion
+and his prey; war at Bolobo; the Equator station; a long voyage
+ahead; a modern Hercules; tropical scenes; a trick with a tiger
+skin; hostile natives; a canoe brigade; the Aruwimi; ravages of
+slave traders; captive women and children; to Stanley Falls; the
+cataracts; appointing a chief; the people and products; wreck
+of a steamer; a horrible massacre; down the Congo to Stanley
+Pool; again at Bolobo; a burnt station; news from missionaries;
+at Leopoldville; down to Vivi; the treaties with chiefs; treaty
+districts; the Camaroon country; oil river region; Stanley’s return
+to London; opinions of African life; thirst for rum; adventures
+and accidents; advice to adventurers; outlines of the Congo Free
+State; its wealth and productions; commercial value; the Berlin
+conference; national jurisdiction; constitution of the Congo Free
+States; results.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="s p2">
+  <big>THE SEARCH FOR EMIN, <span class="flr"><a href="#Page_139">139</a></span></big>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hi">
+
+<p>Stanley’s call; the Belgian king; the Emin Pasha relief committee;
+Stanley in charge of the expedition; off for Central Africa;
+rounding the cataracts; the rendezvous at Stanley Pool; who
+is Emin? his life and character; a favorite of Gordon; fall
+of Khartoum; Emin cut off in equatorial Soudan; rising of the
+Mahdi; death of Gordon; Emin lost in his equatorial province; his
+capitals and country; Stanley pushes to the Aruwimi; Tippoo Tib
+and his promises; Barttelot and the camps; trip up the Aruwimi;
+wanderings in the forest; battles with the dwarfs; sickness,
+starvation and death; lost in the wilds; the plains at last; grass
+and banana plantations; arrival at Albert Nyanza; no word of Emin;
+back to the Aruwimi for boats; another journey to the lake; Emin
+found; tantalizing consultations; Stanley leaves for his forest
+stations; treachery of Tippoo Tib; massacre of Barttelot; the
+Mahdi influence; again for the Lake to save Emin; willing to leave
+Africa; the start for Zanzibar; hardships of the trip; safe arrival
+at Zanzibar; accident to Emin; the world’s applause; Stanley a
+hero.</p>
+
+<p><!--010.png--><span class="pagenum">7</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="s p2">
+  <big>EGYPT AND THE NILE, <span class="flr"><a href="#Page_185">185</a></span></big>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hi">
+
+<p>Shaking hands at Ujiji; Africa a wonderland; Mizriam and Ham; Egypt
+a gateway; mother of literature, art and religion; the Jews
+and Egypt; mouths of the Nile; the Rosetta stone; Suez Canal;
+Alexandria; Pharos, a “wonder of the world;” Cleopatra’s needles;
+Pompey’s Pillar; the catacombs; up the Nile to Cairo; description
+of Cairo; Memphis; the Pyramids and Sphinx; convent of the pulley;
+Abydos its magnificent ruins; City of “the Hundred Gates;” temple
+of Luxor; statues of Memnon; the palace temple of Thebes; the
+old Theban Kings; how they built; ruins of Karnak; most imposing
+in the world; temples of Central Thebes; wonderful temple of
+Edfou; the Island of Phil&aelig;; the elephantine ruins; grand ruins of
+Ipsambul; Nubian ruins; rock tomb at Beni-Hassan; the weird “caves
+of the crocodiles;” horrid death of a traveler; Colonel and Lady
+Baker; from Kartoum to Gondokoro; hardships of a Nile expedition;
+the “forty thieves;” Sudd on the White Nile; adventures with
+hippopotami; mobbing a crocodile; rescuing slaves; at Gondokoro;
+horrors of the situation; battles with the natives; night attack;
+hunting elephants; instincts of the animal; natural scenery;
+different native tribes; cruelty of slave-hunters; ambuscades;
+annexing the country; hunting adventures; the Madhi’s rebellion;
+death of Gordon.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="s p2">
+  <big>SOURCES OF THE NILE, <span class="flr"><a href="#Page_257">257</a></span></big>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hi">
+
+<p>African mysteries; early adventures; the wonderful lake regions;
+excitement over discovery; disputed points; the wish of emperors;
+journey through the desert; Baker and Mrs. Baker; M’dslle
+Tinne; Nile waters and vegetation; dangers of exploration; from
+Gondokoro to Albert Nyanza, native chiefs and races; traits and
+adventure; discovery of Albert Nyanza; King Kamrasi; his royal
+pranks; adventures on the lake; a true Nile source; Murchison
+Falls; revelations by Speke and Grant; Victoria Nyanza; another
+Nile source; Stanley on the scene; his manner of travel; trip
+to Victoria Nyanza; voyage of the “Lady Alice;” adventures on
+the lake; King Mtesa and his empire; wonders of the great lake;
+surprises for Stanley; in battle for King Mtesa; results of
+his discoveries; native traditions; demons and dwarfs; off for
+Tanganyika.</p>
+
+<p><!--011.png--><span class="pagenum">8</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="s p2">
+  <big>THE ZAMBESI, <span class="flr"><a href="#Page_331">331</a></span></big>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hi">
+
+<p>Livingstone on the scene; how he got into Africa; his early adventures
+and trials; wounded by a lion; his marriage; off for Lake Ngam;
+among the Makololo; down the Chobe to the Zambesi; up the Zambesi;
+across the Continent to Loanda; discovery of Lake Dilolo;
+importance of the discovery; description of the lake; its wonderful
+animals; methods of African travel; rain-makers and witchcraft;
+the magic lantern scene; animals of the Zambesi; country, people
+and productions; adventures among the rapids; the Gouye Falls; the
+burning desert and Cuando river; an elephant hunt; the wonderful
+Victoria Falls; sounding smoke; the Charka wars; lower Zambesi
+valley; wonderful animal and vegetable growth; mighty affluents;
+escape from a buffalo; slave hunters; Shire river and Lake Nyassa;
+peculiar native head-dresses; native games, manners and customs;
+Pinto at Victoria Falls; central salt pans.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="s p2">
+  <big>THE CONGO, <span class="flr"><a href="#Page_367">367</a></span></big>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hi">
+
+<p>Discovery of the wonderful Lake Tanganyika; Burton and Speke’s visit;
+Livingstone’s trials; his geographical delusions; gorilla and
+chimpanzee; Livingstone at Bangweola; on the Lualaba; hunting
+the soko; thrilling adventure with a leopard; the Nyangwe
+people; struggle back to Ujiji; meeting with Stanley; joy in the
+wilderness; exploration of Tanganyika; the parting; Livingstone’s
+last journey; amid rain and swamps; close of his career; death of
+the explorer; care of his body; faithful natives; Stanley’s second
+visit; what he had done; strikes the Lualaba; descends in the
+“Lady Alice;” fights with the natives; ambuscades and strategies;
+boating amid rapids; thrilling adventures amid falls and cataracts;
+wonderful streams; the Lualaba is the Congo; joy over the
+discovery; gauntlet of arrows and spears; loss of men and boats:
+death of Frank Pocock; the falls become too formidable; overland
+to the Atlantic; at the mouth of the mighty Congo; return trip to
+Zanzibar; the Congo empire; Stanley’s future plans.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="s p2">
+  <big>CAPE OF STORMS, <span class="flr"><a href="#Page_416">416</a></span></big>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hi">
+
+<p>Discovery of the Cape; early settlers; table mountain; Hottentot
+and Boer; the diamond regions; the Zulu warriors; the Pacific
+republics; natal and the transvaal; manners, customs, animals and
+sports; climate and resources.</p>
+
+<p><!--012.png--><span class="pagenum">9</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="s p2">
+  <big>NYASSALAND, <span class="flr"><a href="#Page_423">423</a></span></big>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hi">
+
+<p>A disputed possession; the beautiful Shir&eacute;; rapids and cataracts;
+mountain fringed valleys; rank tropical vegetation; magnificent
+upland scenery; thrifty and ingenious natives; cotton and sorghum;
+the Go-Nakeds; beer and smoke; geese, ducks and waterfowls; Lake
+Shirwa; the Blantyre mission; the Manganja highlands; a village
+scene; native honesty; discovery of Lake Nyassa; description of
+the Lake; lofty mountain ranges; Livingstone’s impressions; Mazitu
+and Zulu; native arms, dresses and customs; slave-hunting Arabs;
+slave caravans; population about Nyassa; storms on the lake; the
+first steamer; clouds of “Kungo” flies; elephant herds; charge of
+an elephant bull; exciting sport; African and Asiatic elephants;
+the Scottish mission stations; great wealth of Nyassaland; value to
+commerce; the English and Portuguese claims.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="s p2">
+  <big>AFRICAN RESOURCES, <span class="flr"><a href="#Page_441">441</a></span></big>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hi">
+
+<p>African coasts and mysteries; Negroland of the school-books; how to
+study Africa; a vast peninsula; the coast rind; central plateaus
+and mountain ranges; Stanley’s last discoveries; a field for
+naturalists; bird and insect life; wild and weird nature; vast
+area; incomputable population; types of African races; distribution
+of races; African languages; character of the human element;
+Africa and revelation; tribes of dwarfs; “Africa in a Nutshell”;
+various political divisions; variety of products; steamships and
+commerce; as an agricultural field; the lake systems; immense
+water-ways; internal improvements; Stanley’s observations; features
+of Equatorial Africa; extent of the Congo basin; the Zambesi and
+Nile systems; the geographical sections of the Congo system; the
+coast section; cataracts, mountains and plains; affluents of the
+great Congo; tribes of lower Congo; length of steam navigation;
+future pasture grounds of the world; the Niam-Niam and Dinka
+countries; empire of Tippoo Tib; richness of vegetable productions;
+varieties of animal life; immense forests and gigantic wild
+beasts; oils, gums and dyes; hides, furs, wax and ivory; iron,
+copper, and other minerals; the cereals, cotton, spices and garden
+vegetables; the labor and human resources; humanitarian and
+commercial problems; the Lualaba section; size, population and
+characteristics; navigable waters; Livingstone’s observations;
+tracing his footsteps; animal and vegetable life; stirring scenes
+and incidents; the Manyuema country; Lakes Moero and Bangweola;
+resources of forest and stream; climate and soil; a remarkable
+land;<!--013.png--><span class="pagenum">10</span>
+customs of natives; village architecture; river
+systems and watersheds; Stanley and Livingstone in the centre of
+the Continent; the Chambesi section; head-rivers of the Congo; the
+Tanganyika system; owners of the Congo basin; Stanley’s resume of
+African resources; a glowing picture.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="s p2">
+  <big>THE WHITE MAN IN AFRICA, <span class="flr"><a href="#Page_526">526</a></span></big>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hi">
+
+<p>Egyptian and Roman Colonists; Moorish invasion; Portugese advent; the
+commercial and missionary approach; triumphs of late explorers;
+can the white man live in Africa?; colonizing and civilizing;
+Stanley’s personal experience; he has opened a momentous problem;
+Stanley’s melancholy chapters; effect of wine and beer; the white
+man must not drink in Africa; must change and re-adapt his habits;
+visions of the colonists; effect of climate; kind of dress to wear;
+the best house to build; how to work and eat; when to travel;
+absurdities of strangers; following native examples; true rules of
+conduct; Stanley’s laws of health; African cold worse than African
+heat; guarding against fatigue; Dr. Martins code of health; the
+white man can live in Africa; future of the white races in the
+tropics; the struggle of foreign powers; missionary struggles;
+political and commercial outlook.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="s p2">
+  <big>MISSIONARY WORK IN AFRICA, <span class="flr"><a href="#Page_565">565</a></span></big>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hi">
+
+<p>Africa for the Christian; Mohammedan influences; Catholic missions;
+traveler and missionary; the great revival following Stanley’s
+discoveries; Livingstone’s work; perils of missionary life;
+history of missionary effort; the Moors of the North; Abyssinian
+Christians; west-coast missions; various missionary societies;
+character of their work; Bishop Taylor’s wonderful work in Liberia,
+on the Congo, in Angola; nature of his plans; self-supporting
+churches; outline of his work; mission houses and farms; vivid
+descriptions and interesting letters; cheering reports from
+pioneers; South African missions; opening Bechuana-land; the
+Moffats and Coillards; Livingstone and McKenzie; the Nyassa
+missions; on Tanganyika; the Church in Uganda; murder of
+Harrington; the gospel on the east coast; Arabs as enemies;
+religious ideas of Africans; rites and superstitions; fetish and
+devil worship; importance of the mission field; sowing the seed;
+gathering the harvest.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--014.png--><span class="pagenum">11</span></p>
+
+<div class="s p2">
+  <big>AFRICA’S LIGHTS AND SHADOWS, <span class="flr"><a href="#Page_735">735</a></span></big>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hi">
+
+<p>Arnot’s idea of Central Africa; killed by an elephant; the puff adder;
+the Kasai region; bulls for horses; a Congo hero; affection for
+mothers; caught by a crocodile; decline of the slave trade; the
+natives learning; books in native tongues; natives as laborers;
+understanding of the climate; Stanley on the Gombe; the leopard and
+spring-bock; habits of the antelope; Christian heroes in Africa;
+the boiling pot ordeal; adventures of a slave; Arab cruelties; a
+lion hunt; Mohammedan influence; a victim of superstition; Hervic
+women; Tataka mission in Liberia; a native war dance; African game
+laws; Viva on the Congo; rum in Africa; palavering; Emin Pasha at
+Zanzibar; the Sas-town tribes; an interrupted journey; in Monrovia;
+a sample sermon; the scramble for Africa; lions pulling down a
+giraffe; Kilimanjars, highest mountains in Africa; the Kru-coast
+Missions; a desperate situation; Henry M. Stanley and Emin Pasha;
+comparison of the two pioneers. pp. 800.</p>
+
+<!--015.png-->
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<h2>
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td align="right">PAGE.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">COLUMBIA PRESENTING STANLEY TO EUROPEAN<br />SOVEREIGNS, <span class="smcap">Colored Plate</span></td>
+  <td align="right"><span class="smcap"><a href="#COLUMBIA_PRESENTING">Frontis-<br />piece</a></span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">MARCHING THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#MARCHING_THROUGH_EQUATORIAL_AFRICA">4</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">MAP OF CENTRAL AFRICA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#CENTRAL_AFRICA_AND_THE_CONGO">16 and 17</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">HENRY M. STANLEY</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#HENRY_M_STANLEY">18</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">THE BELLOWING HIPPOPOTAMI</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">SCENE ON LAKE TANGANYIKA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">GATHERING TO MARKET AT NYANGWE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A SLAVE-STEALER’S REVENGE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">BUFFALO AT BAY</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">FIGHT WITH AN ENRAGED HIPPOPOTAMUS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_40">40</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ROUNDING A PORTAGE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A NARROW ESCAPE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">WHITE-COLLARED FISH-EAGLES</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_48">48</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A TEMPORARY CROSSING</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">WEAVER-BIRDS’ NESTS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_51">51</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">NATIVES’ CURIOSITY AT SIGHT OF A WHITE MAN</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">CAPTURING A CROCODILE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">LIONS DRAGGING DOWN A BUFFALO</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_62">62</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A FUNERAL DANCE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_66">66</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">STANLEY’S FIGHT WITH BENGALA IN 1877</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">AFRICAN BLACK-SMITHS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_71">71</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">AFRICAN HEADDRESSES</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ORNAMENTED SMOKING PIPE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">NIAM-NIAM HAMLET ON THE DIAMOONOO</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">NIAM-NIAM MINSTREL</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">NIAM-NIAM WARRIORS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">RECEIVING THE BRIDE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A BONGO CONCERT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">THE MASSACRE AT NYANGWE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">KNIFE-SHEATH, BASKET, WOODEN-BOLSTER AND BEE-HIVE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">RECEPTION BY AN AFRICAN KING</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_99">99</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">SACRIFICE OF SLAVES, <span class="smcap">Colored Plate</span></td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">TIPPOO TIB’S GRAND CANOES GOING DOWN THE CONGO, FRONT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_136">136</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">TIPPOO TIB’S GRAND CANOES GOING DOWN THE CONGO, REAR</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_137">137</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">HENRY M. STANLEY. From a Late Portrait</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_138">138</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">EMIN PASHA IN HIS TENT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_142">142</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">NIAM-NIAM VILLAGE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_146">146</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">CUTTING WOOD AT NIGHT FOR THE STEAMERS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_149">149</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">INTERVIEW OF MAJOR BARTTELOT AND MR. JAMESON WITH TIPPOO TIB</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_149">149</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">AN AMBUSCADE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_151">151</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ELEPHANTS DESTROYING VEGETATION</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_157">157</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">THE CAPTURED BUFFALO</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_159">159</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">AFRICAN WARRIORS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_159">159</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ATTACK ON THE ENCAMPMENT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_161">161</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">BEGINNING A HUT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_164">164</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">STANLEY’S FIRST SIGHT OF EMIN’S STEAMER</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_165">165</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">THE SECOND STAGE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_165">165</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">HUT COMPLETED IN AN HOUR</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_166">166</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">CAMP AT KINSHASSA, ON THE CONGO, WITH TIPPOO<br />TIB’S HEADQUARTERS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_170">170</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">SLAVE MARKET</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_180">180</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_185">185</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">THE ROSETTA STONE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_188">188</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">DE LESSEPS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_190">190</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">CLEOPATRA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_191">191</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">PHAROS LIGHT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_192">192</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ALEXANDER, THE GREAT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_193">193</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">CLEOPATRA’S NEEDLE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_193">193</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">THE SERAPEION</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_195">195</a><!--016.png--></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">EGYPTIAN GOD</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_196">196</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ROMAN CATACOMBS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_196">196</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">MASSACRE OF MAMELUKES</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_199">199</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">VEILED BEAUTY</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_200">200</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">PYRAMIDS OF EGYPT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_203">203</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">INTERIOR OF GREAT PYRAMID</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_204">204</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">THE SPHINX</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_206">206</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">STATUES OF MEMNON</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_210">210</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">RUINS IN THEBES</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_211">211</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">OBELISK OF KARNAK</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_213">213</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">SPHINX OF KARNAK</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_214">214</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">GATEWAY AT KARNAK</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_215">215</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A MUMMY</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_216">216</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">TEMPLE AT EDFOU</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_217">217</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ISIS ON PHIL&AElig;</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_218">218</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">TEMPLE COURT, PHIL&AElig;</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_220">220</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">TEMPLE AT IPSAMBUL</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_221">221</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">TEMPLE OF OSIRIS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_222">222</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">TEMPLE OF ATHOR</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_224">224</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ROCK TOMB OF BENI-HASSAN</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_226">226</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">EGYPTIAN BRICK FIELD</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_227">227</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">GROTTOES OF SAMOUN</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_228">228</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A CHIEF’S WIFE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_231">231</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">THE “FORTY THIEVES”</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_232">232</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">MOBBING A CROCODILE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_234">234</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">RELEASING SLAVES</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_236">236</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ATTACKED BY A HIPPOPOTAMUS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_237">237</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A SOUDAN WARRIOR</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_239">239</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A NIGHT ATTACK</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_241">241</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ELEPHANTS IN TROUBLE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_242">242</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">SHAKING FRUIT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_244">244</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">TABLE ROCK</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_245">245</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">NATIVE DANCE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_246">246</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ATTACK BY AMBUSCADE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_248">248</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">HUNTING WITH FIRE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_251">251</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">RESULTS OF FREEDOM</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_251">251</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">GORDON AS MANDARIN</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_253">253</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">PORTRAIT OF GORDON</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_256">256</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">PORTRAIT OF COLONEL BAKER</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_266">266</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">MAD’MLLE TINNE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_268">268</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">LADY BAKER</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_270">270</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">SLAVE HUNTER’S VICTIM’S</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_271">271</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">WHITE NILE SWAMPS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_274">274</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">CROSSING A SPONGE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_276">276</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">PREPARING TO START</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_279">279</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A ROYAL JOURNEY</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_291">291</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">MURCHISON FALLS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_298">298</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">HENRY M. STANLEY</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_303">303</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">STANLEY ON THE MARCH</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_304">304</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">RUBAGA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_314">314</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">SHOOTING A RHINOCEROS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_328">328</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">LIVINGSTONE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_330">330</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">LION ATTACKS LIVINGSTONE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_333">333</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">CUTTING A ROAD</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_334">334</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A BANYAN TREE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_338">338</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ANIMALS ON THE ZAMBESI</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_343">343</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">THE GONYE FALLS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_344">344</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">HUNTING THE ELEPHANT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_345">345</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">IN THE RAPIDS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_348">348</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">VICTORIA FALLS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_351">351</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">CHARGE OF A BUFFALO</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_355">355</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">NATIVE SLAVE HUNTERS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_356">356</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">HUAMBO MAN AND WOMAN</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_359">359</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">SAMBO WOMAN</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_359">359</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">GANGUELA WOMEN</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_359">359</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">BIHE HEAD DRESS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_361">361</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">QUIMBANDE GIRLS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_361">361</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">CUBANGO HEAD-DRESS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_361">361</a><!--017.png--></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">LUCHAZE WOMAN</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_362">362</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">AMBUELLA WOMAN</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_362">362</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">SOVA DANCE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_363">363</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">FORDING THE CUCHIBI</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_363">363</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">VICTORIA FALLS (BELOW)</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_365">365</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ON TANGANYIKA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_368">368</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ANT HILL</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_371">371</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">GORILLAS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_371">371</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A SOKO HUNT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_374">374</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A DANGEROUS PRIZE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_375">375</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">NYANGWE MARKET</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_378">378</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">STANLEY AT TANGANYIKA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_380">380</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">STANLEY MEETS LIVINGSTONE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_381">381</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">AFLOAT ON TANGANYIKA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_382">382</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">DEEP-WATER FORDING</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_386">386</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">LAST DAY’S MARCH</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_388">388</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">DEATH OF LIVINGSTONE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_389">389</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">THE KING’S MAGICIANS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_390">390</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A WEIR BRIDGE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_395">395</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">FIGHTING HIS WAY</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_398">398</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">RESCUE OF ZAIDI</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_403">403</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ATTACK BY THE BANGALA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_405">405</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">IN THE CONGO RAPIDS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_408">408</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">DEATH OF FRANK POCOCK</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_411">411</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ZULUS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_418">418</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">MY CATTLE WERE SAVED</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_420">420</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">BUFFALO HUNTERS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_421">421</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">VILLAGE SCENE ON LAKE NYASSA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_426">426</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">STORM ON LAKE NYASSA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_434">434</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">AN ELEPHANT CHARGE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_436">436</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">NATIVE HUNTERS KILLING SOKOS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_446">446</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">AFRICAN ANT-EATER</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_446">446</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">TERRIBLE FIGHT OF AFRICAN MONARCHS, <span class="smcap">Colored Plate</span></td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_446">446</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">QUICHOBO</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_446">446</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">THE “DEVIL OF THE ROAD,” ETC.</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_450">450</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">BUSH-BUCKS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_450">450</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">NATIVE TYPES OF SOUTHERN SOUDAN</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_451">451</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">BARI OF GONDOKORO</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_453">453</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">CHASING GIRAFFES</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_457">457</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">NATIVE RAT-TRAP</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_463">463</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">AFRICAN HATCHET</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_464">464</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">NATIVES RUNNING TO WAR</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_466">466</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">UMBANGI BLACKSMITHS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_469">469</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">NATIVES KILLING AN ELEPHANT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_472">472</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ON A JOURNEY IN THE KALAHARI DESERT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_480">480</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">WOMEN CARRIERS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_481">481</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">DRIVING GAME INTO THE HOPO</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_483">483</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">PIT AT END OF HOPO</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_483">483</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">CAPSIZED BY A HIPPOPOTAMUS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_487">487</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">HUNTER’S PARADISE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_488">488</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">BATLAPIN BOYS THROWING THE KIRI</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_492">492</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">PURSUIT OF THE WILD BOAR</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_492">492</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">RAIDING THE CATTLE SUPPLY</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_494">494</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">HUNTING ZEBRAS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_497">497</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">DANGEROUS FORDING</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_503">503</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A YOUNG SOKO</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_506">506</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">MANYUEMA WOMEN</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_510">510</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">TYPES OF AFRICAN ANTELOPES</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_515">515</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">BINKA CATTLE HERD</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_518">518</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">AFRICAN RHINOCEROS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_534">534</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ELEPHANT UPROOTING A TREE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_540">540</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">COL. BAKER’S WAY OF REACHING BERBER</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_553">553</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">AFRICA METHODIST CONFERENCE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_564">564</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">CHUMA AND SUSI</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_568">568</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">KING LOBOSSI</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_568">568</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">WEST AFRICAN MUSSULMAN</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_579">579</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">AN AFRICAN CHIEF</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_587">587</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">PORT AND TOWN OF ELMINA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_592">592</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">COOMASSIE, THE CAPITAL OF ASHANTI</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_594">594</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">CANOE TRAVEL ON THE NIGER</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_598">598</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">MAP OF LIBERIA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_604">604</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">METHODIST PARSONAGE OF AFRICA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_606">606</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">AFRICAN VILLAGE AND PALAVER TREE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_611">611</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">ST. PAUL DE LOANDA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_618">618</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">FOREST SCENE IN ANGOLA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_621">621</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">MUNDOMBES AND HUTS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_626">626</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">NATIVE GRASS-HOUSE ON THE CONGO</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_629">629</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">SOME OF BISHOP TAYLOR’S MISSIONARIES</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_635">635</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">GARAWAY MISSION HOUSE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_643">643</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">MAP OF ANGOLA</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_647">647</a><!--018.png--></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">STEAM WAGONS FOR HAULING AT VIVI</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_659">659</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">REED DANCE BY MOONLIGHT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_676">676</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">MISSION HOUSE AT VIVI</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_692">692</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">HUNTING THE GEMBOCK</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_696">696</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">BISHOP TAYLOR’S MISSIONS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_699">699</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A NATIVE WARRIOR</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_706">706</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">THE COILLARD CAMP</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_709">709</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">AT HOME AFTER THE HUNT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_711">711</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">MOFFAT INSTITUTION&mdash;KURUMAN</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_713">713</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">MOFFAT’S COURAGE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_715">715</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">NATIVES OF LARI AND MADI IN CAMP AT SHOO</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_719">719</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">TINDER-BOX, FLINT AND STEEL</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_726">726</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A CARAVAN BOUND FOR THE INTERIOR</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_728">728</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">TRAVEL ON BULL-BACK AND NATIVE ESCORT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_739">739</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">LEOPARD ATTACKING A SPRINGBOCK</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_747">747</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A LION HUNT</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_757">757</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">NATIVE WAR DANCE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_764">764</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">BUFFALO DEFENDING HER YOUNG</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_770">770</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">SEKHOMS AND HIS COUNSEL</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_774">774</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">AN INTERRUPTED JOURNEY</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_779">779</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">LIONS PULLIN DOWN A GIRAFFE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_786">786</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">HUNTING LIONS</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_794">794</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">A DESPERATE SITUATION</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_797">797</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">DINING ON THE BANKS OF THE SHIRE</td>
+  <td align="right"><a href="#Page_800">800</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<!--019.png-->
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_016-017guide.png" width="600" height="515"
+  alt="Map." title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a id="CENTRAL_AFRICA_AND_THE_CONGO"></a>CENTRAL AFRICA AND THE CONGO
+BASIN.</span>
+Larger:
+<a href="images/i_016-017section-a.png" target="_blank">A.</a>
+<a href="images/i_016-017section-b.png" target="_blank">B.</a>
+<a href="images/i_016-017section-c.png" target="_blank">C.</a>
+<a href="images/i_016-017section-d.png" target="_blank">D.</a>
+<a href="images/i_016-017section-e.png" target="_blank">E.</a>
+<a href="images/i_016-017section-f.png" target="_blank">F.</a>
+</div>
+
+<!--021.png-->
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 413px;">
+<img src="images/i_018.png" width="413" height="518"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><a id="HENRY_M_STANLEY"></a>HENRY M. STANLEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><!--022.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">19</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>
+HENRY M. STANLEY.
+</h2>
+
+<p>The news rang through the world that Stanley was safe. For more than a
+year he had been given up as lost in African wilds by all but the most
+hopeful. Even hope had nothing to rest upon save the dreamy thought that
+he, whom hardship and danger had so often assailed in vain, would again
+come out victorious.</p>
+
+<p>The mission of Henry M. Stanley to find, succor and rescue Emin Pasha,
+if he were yet alive, not only adds to the life of this persistent
+explorer and wonderful adventurer one of its most eventful and thrilling
+chapters, but throws more light on the Central African situation than
+any event in connection with the discovery and occupation of the coveted
+areas which lie beneath the equatorial sun. Its culmination, both in the
+escape of the hero himself and in the success of his perilous errand,
+to say nothing of its far-reaching effects upon the future of “The
+Dark Continent,” opens, as it were, a new volume in African annals,
+and presents a new point of departure for scientists, statesmen and
+philanthropists.</p>
+
+<p>Space must be found further on for the details of that long, exciting
+and dangerous journey, which reversed all other tracks of African
+travel, yet redounded more than all to the glory of the explorer and the
+advancement of knowledge respecting hidden latitudes. But here we can get
+a fair view of a situation, which in all its lights and shadows, in its
+many startling outlines, in its awful suggestion of possibilities, is
+perhaps the most interesting and fateful now before the eyes of modern
+civilization.</p>
+
+<p>It may be very properly asked, at the start, who is this wizard of
+travel, this dashing adventurer, this heroic explorer and rescuer,
+this<!--023.png--><span class="pagenum">20</span>
+pioneer of discovery, who goes about in dark, unfathomed places, defying
+flood and climate, jungle and forest, wild beast and merciless savage,
+and bearing a seemingly charmed life?</p>
+
+<p>Who is this genius who has in a decade revolutionized all ancient methods
+of piercing the heart of the unknown, and of revealing the mysteries
+which nature has persistently hugged since “the morning stars first sang
+together in joy?”</p>
+
+<p>The story of his life may be condensed into a brief space&mdash;brief yet
+eventful as that of a conqueror, moved ever to conquest by sight of new
+worlds. Henry M. Stanley was born in the hamlet of Denbigh, in Wales,
+in 1840. His parents, who bore the name of Rowland, were poor; so poor,
+indeed, that the boy, at the age of three years, was virtually on the
+town. At the age of thirteen, he was turned out of the poor-house to
+shift for himself. Fortunately, a part of the discipline had been such
+as to assure him the elements of an English education. The boy must have
+improved himself beyond the opportunities there at hand, for in two or
+three years afterwards, he appeared in North Wales as a school-teacher.
+Thence he drifted to Liverpool, where he shipped as a cabin-boy on a
+sailing-vessel, bound for New Orleans. Here he drifted about in search
+of employment till he happened upon a merchant and benefactor, by the
+name of Stanley. The boy proved so bright, promising and useful, that his
+employer adopted him as his son. Thus the struggling John Rowland became,
+by adoption, the Henry M. Stanley of our narrative.</p>
+
+<p>Before he came of age, the new father died without a will, and his
+business and estate passed away from the foster child to those entitled
+at law. But for this misfortune, or rather great good fortune, he might
+have been lost to the world in the counting-room of a commercial city.
+He was at large on the world again, full of enterprise and the spirit of
+adventure.</p>
+
+<p>The civil war was now on, and Stanley entered the Confederate army. He
+was captured by the Federal forces, and on being set at liberty threw his
+fortunes in with his captors by joining the Federal navy, the ship being
+the Ticonderoga, on which he was soon promoted to the position of Acting
+Ensign. After the war, he developed those powers which made him such an
+acquisition
+on<!--024.png--><span class="pagenum">21</span>
+influential newspapers. He was of genial disposition,
+bright intelligence, quick observation and surprising discrimination. His
+judgment of men and things was sound. He loved travel and adventure, was
+undaunted in the presence of obstacles, persistent in every task before
+him, and possessed shrewd insight into human character and projects. His
+pen was versatile and his style adapted to the popular taste. No man
+was ever better equipped by nature to go anywhere and make the most of
+every situation. In a single year he had made himself a reputation by his
+trip through Asia Minor and other Eastern countries. In 1866 he was sent
+by the <i>New York Herald</i>, as war correspondent, to Abyssinia. The next
+year he was sent to Spain by the same paper, to write up the threatened
+rebellion there. In 1869 he was sent by the <i>Herald</i> to Africa to find
+the lost Livingstone.</p>
+
+<p>A full account of this perilous journey will be found elsewhere in this
+volume, in connection with the now historic efforts of that gallant band
+of African pioneers who immortalized themselves prior to the founding
+of the Congo Free State. Suffice it to say here, that it took him two
+years to find Livingstone at Ujiji, upon the great lake of Tanganyika,
+which lake he explored, in connection with Livingstone, and at the same
+time made important visits to most of the powerful tribes that surround
+it. He returned to civilization, but remained only a short while, for by
+1874 he was again in the unknown wilds, and this time on that celebrated
+journey which brought him entirely across the Continent from East to
+West, revealed the wonderful water resources of tropical Africa and gave
+a place on the map to that remarkable drainage system which finds its
+outlet in the Congo river.</p>
+
+<p>Says the Rev. Geo. L. Taylor of this march: “It was an undertaking which,
+for grandeur of conception, and for sagacity, vigor, and completeness
+of execution, must ever rank among the marches of the greatest generals
+and the triumphs of the greatest discoverers of history. No reader can
+mentally measure and classify this exploit who does not recall the
+prolonged struggles that have attended the exploration of all great
+first-class rivers&mdash;a far more difficult work, in many respects, than
+ocean sailing. We must remember the wonders and sufferings of Orellana’s
+voyages (though in a
+brigantine,<!--025.png--><span class="pagenum">22</span>
+built on the Rio Napo, and with armed
+soldiers) down that “Mediterranean of Brazil,” the Amazon, from the Andes
+to the Atlantic, in 1540. We must recall the voyage of Marquette and
+Joliet down the Mississippi in 1673; the toils of Park and Landers on
+the Niger, 1795-1830; and of Speke and Baker on the Nile, 1860-1864, if
+we would see how the deed of Stanley surpasses them all in boldness and
+generalship, as it promises also to surpass them in immediate results.</p>
+
+<p>The object of the voyage was two-fold: first, to finish the work of Speke
+and Grant in exploring the great Nile lakes; and, secondly, to strike the
+great Lualaba where Livingstone left it, and follow it to whatever sea or
+ocean it might lead.”</p>
+
+<p>And again:&mdash;“The story of the descent of the great river is an Iliad in
+itself. Through hunger and weariness; through fever, dysentery, poisoned
+arrows, and small-pox; through bellowing hippopotami, crocodiles,
+and monsters; past mighty tributaries, themselves great first-class
+rivers; down roaring rapids, whirlpools, and cataracts; through great
+canoe-fleets of saw-teethed, fighting, gnashing cannibals fiercer than
+tigers; through thirty-two battles on land and river, often against
+hundreds of great canoes, some of them ninety feet long and with a
+hundred spears on board; and, at last, through the last fearful journey
+by land and water down the tremendous ca&ntilde;on below Stanley Pool, still
+they went on, and on, relentlessly on, till finally they got within
+hailing and helping distance of Boma, on the vast estuary by the sea; and
+on August 9, 1877, the news thrilled the civilized world that Stanley
+was saved, and had connected Livingstone’s Lualaba with Tuckey’s Congo!
+After 7,000 miles’ wanderings in 1,000 days save one from Zanzibar, and
+four times crossing the Equator, he looked white men in the face once
+more, and was startled that they were so pale! Black had become the
+normal color of the human face. Thus the central stream of the second
+vastest river on the globe, next to the Amazon in magnitude, was at last
+explored, and a new and unsuspected realm was disclosed in the interior
+of a prehistoric continent, itself the oldest cradle of civilization.
+The delusions of ages were swept away at one masterful stroke, and a new
+world was discovered by a new Columbus in a canoe.”</p>
+
+<p><!--026.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">23</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 567px;">
+<img src="images/i_023.jpg" width="567" height="339"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE BELLOWING HIPPOPOTAMI.</span>
+<a href="images/i_023x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--027.png--><span class="pagenum">24</span></p>
+
+<p>It was on that memorable march that he came across the wily Arab, Tippoo
+Tib, at the flourishing market-town of Nyangwe, who was of so much
+service to Stanley on his descent of the Lualaba (Congo) from Nyangwe to
+Stanley Falls, 1,000 miles from Stanley Pool, but who has since figured
+in rather an unenviable light in connection with efforts to introduce
+rays of civilization into the fastnesses of the Upper Congo. This, as
+well as previous journeys of Stanley, established the fact that the old
+method of approaching the heart of the Continent by desert coursers,
+or of threading its hostile mazes without armed help, was neither
+expeditious nor prudent. It revolutionized exploration, by compelling
+respect from hostile man and guaranteeing immunity from attack by wild
+beast.</p>
+
+<p>For nearly three years Stanley was lost to the civilized world in this
+trans-continental journey. Its details, too, are narrated elsewhere in
+this volume, with all its vicissitude of 7,000 miles of zigzag wandering
+and his final arrival on the Atlantic coast&mdash;the wonder of all explorers,
+the admired of the scientific world.</p>
+
+<p>Such was the value of the information he brought to light in this
+eventful journey, such the wonderful resource of the country through
+which he passed after plunging into the depths westward of Lake
+Tanganyika, and such the desirability of this new and western approach
+to the heart of the continent, not only for commercial but political
+and humanitarian purposes, that the cupidity of the various colonizing
+nations, especially of Europe, was instantly awakened, and it was seen
+that unless proper steps were taken, there must soon be a struggle for
+the possession of a territory so vast and with such possibilities of
+empire. To obviate a calamity so dire as this, the happy scheme was hit
+upon to carve out of as much of the new discovered territory as would be
+likely to embrace the waters of the Congo and control its ocean outlet, a
+mighty State which was to be dedicated for ever to the civilized nations
+of the world.</p>
+
+<p>In it there should be no clash of foreign interests, but perfect
+reciprocity of trade and free scope for individual or corporate
+enterprise without respect to nationality. The king of Belgium took a
+keen interest in the project, and through his influence other powers
+of Europe, and even the United States, became enlisted.
+A<!--028.png--><span class="pagenum">25</span>
+plan of
+the proposed State was drafted and it soon received international
+ratification. The new power was to be known as the Congo Free State,
+and it was to be, for the time being, under control of an Administrator
+General. To the work of founding this State, giving it metes and bounds,
+securing its recognition among the nations, removing obstacles to its
+approach, establishing trading posts and developing its commercial
+features, Stanley now addressed himself. We have been made familiar with
+his plans for securing railway communication between the mouth of the
+Congo and Stanley Pool, a distance of nearly 200 miles inland, so as to
+overcome the difficult, if not impossible, navigation of the swiftly
+rushing river. We have also heard of his successful efforts to introduce
+navigation, by means of steamboats, upon the more placid waters of the
+Upper Congo and upon its numerous affluents. Up until the year 1886, the
+most of his time was devoted to fixing the infant empire permanently on
+the map of tropical Africa and giving it identity among the political and
+industrial powers of earth.</p>
+
+<p>In reading of Stanley and studying the characteristics of his work one
+naturally gravitates to the thought, that in all things respecting him,
+the older countries of Europe are indebted to the genius of the newer
+American institution. We cannot yet count upon the direct advantages of
+a civilized Africa upon America. In a political and commercial sense our
+activity cannot be equal to that of Europe on account of our remoteness,
+and because we are, as yet, but little more than colonists ourselves.
+Africa underlies Europe, is contiguous to it, is by nature situated so
+as to become an essential part of that mighty earth-tract which the sun
+of civilization is, sooner or later, to illuminate. Besides Europe has
+a need for African acquisition and settlement which America has not.
+Her areas are small, her population has long since reached the point
+of overflow, her money is abundant and anxious for inviting foreign
+outlets, her manufacturing centres must have new cotton and jute fields,
+not to mention supplies of raw material of a thousand kinds, her crowded
+establishments must have the cereal foods, add to all these the love
+of empire which like a second nature with monarchical rulers, and the
+desire for large landed estates which is a characteristic of titled
+nobility,
+and<!--029.png--><span class="pagenum">26</span>
+you have a few of the inducements to African conquest and
+colonization which throw Europe in the foreground. Yet while all these
+are true, it is doubtful if, with all her advantages of wealth, location
+and resource, she has done as much for the evangelization of Africa as
+has America. No, nor as much for the systematic and scientific opening
+of its material secrets. And this brings us to the initial idea of this
+paragraph again. Though Stanley was a foreign waif, cast by adverse
+circumstances on our shores, it seemed to require the robust freedom
+and stimulating opportunities of republican institutions to awaken and
+develop in him the qualities of the strong practical and venturesome
+man he became. Monarchy may not fetter thought, but it does restrain
+actions. It grooves and ruts human energy by laws of custom and by
+arbitrary rules of caste. It would have repressed a man like Stanley, or
+limited him to its methods. He would have been a subject of some dynasty
+or a victim of some conventionalism. Or if he had grown too large for
+repressive boundaries and had chosen to burst them, he would have become
+a revolutionist worthy of exile, if his head had not already come to
+the block. But under republican institutions his energies and ambitions
+had free play. Every faculty, every peculiarity of the man grew and
+developed, till he became a strong, original and unique force in the line
+of adventure and discovery. This out-crop of manhood and character, is
+the tribute of our free institutions to European monarchy. The tribute is
+not given grudgingly. Take it and welcome. Use it for your own glory and
+aggrandizement. Let crowned-heads bow before it, and titled aristocracy
+worship it, as they appropriate its worth and wealth. But let it not be
+forgotten, that the American pioneering spirit has opened Africa wider in
+ten years than all the efforts of all other nations in twenty.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><!--030.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">27</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>
+CONGO FREE STATE.
+</h2>
+
+<p>In 1877, Stanley wrote to the London <i>Daily Telegraph</i> as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>“I feel convinced that the question of this mighty water-way (the Congo)
+will become a political one in time. As yet, however, no European power
+seems to have put forth the right of control. Portugal claims it because
+she discovered its mouth; but the great powers, England, America, and
+France, refuse to recognize her right. If it were not that I fear to
+damp any interest you may have in Africa, or in this magnificent stream,
+by the length of my letter, I could show you very strong reasons why it
+would be a politic deed to settle this momentous question immediately.
+I could prove to you that the power possessing the Congo, despite the
+cataracts, would absorb to itself the trade of the whole enormous basin
+behind. This river is and will be the grand highway of commerce to West
+Central Africa.”</p>
+
+<p>When Stanley wrote this, with visions of a majestic Congo Empire flitting
+through his brain, he was more than prophetic; at least, he knew more
+of the impulse that was then throbbing and permeating Europe than any
+other man. He had met Gambetta, the great French statesman, who in so
+many words had told him that he had opened up a new continent to the
+world’s view and had given an impulse to scientific and philanthropic
+enterprise which could not but have material effect on the progress of
+mankind. He knew what the work of the International Association, which
+had his plans for a Free State under consideration, had been, up to that
+hour, and were likely to be in the future. He was aware of the fact
+that the English Baptist missionaries had already pushed their way up
+the Congo to a point beyond the Equator, and that the American Baptists
+were working side by side with their English brethren.
+He<!--032.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">29</a></span>
+knew that the
+London and Church Missionary Societies had planted their flags on Lakes
+Victoria and Tanganyika, and that the work of the Free Kirk of Scotland
+was reaching out from Lake Nyassa to Tanganyika. He had seen Pinto and
+Weissman crossing Africa and making grand discoveries in the Portuguese
+possessions south of the Congo. De Brazza had given France a West African
+Empire; Germany had annexed all the vacant territory in South-west
+Africa, to say nothing of her East African enterprises; Italy had taken
+up the Red Sea coast; Great Britain had possessed the Niger delta;
+Portugal already owned 700,000 square miles south of the Congo, to which
+no boundaries had been affixed.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 610px;">
+<img src="images/i_028.jpg" width="610" height="347"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SCENE ON LAKE TANGANYIKA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Stanley knew even more than this. His heroic nature took no stock in the
+“horrible climate” of Africa, which he had tested for so many years. He
+was fully persuaded that the plateaus of the Upper Congo and the central
+continent were healthier than the lands of Arkansas, which has doubled
+its population in twenty-five years. He treated the coast as but a thin
+line, the mere shell of an egg, yet he saw it dotted with settlements
+along every available water-way&mdash;the Kwanza, Congo, Kwilu, Ogowai, Muni,
+Camaroon, Oil, Niger, Roquelle, Gambia and Senegal rivers. He asked
+himself, What is left? And the answer came&mdash;Nothing, except the basins
+of the four mighty streams&mdash;the Congo, the Nile, the Niger and the
+Shari (Shire), all of which require railways to link them with the sea.
+His projected railway from Vivi, around the cataracts of the Congo, to
+Stanley Pool, 147 miles long, would open nearly 11,000 miles of navigable
+water-way, and the trade of 43,000,000 people, worth millions of dollars
+annually.</p>
+
+<p>The first results of Stanley’s efforts in behalf of a “Free Congo
+State” were, as already indicated, the formation of an international
+association, whose president was Colonel Strauch, and to whose existence
+and management the leading powers of the world gave their assent. It
+furnished the means for his return to Africa, with plenty of help and
+with facilities for navigating the Congo, in order to establish towns,
+conclude treaties with the natives, take possession of the lands, fix
+metes and bounds and open commerce&mdash;in a word, to found a State according
+to his ideal, and firmly fix it among the recognized empires of the
+world.</p>
+
+<p><!--033.png--><span class="pagenum">30</span></p>
+
+<p>In January, 1879, Stanley started for Africa, under the above auspices
+and with the above intent. But instead of sailing to the Congo direct,
+he went to Zanzibar on the east coast, for the purpose of enlisting a
+force of native pioneers and carriers, aiming as much as possible to
+secure those who had accompanied him on his previous trips across the
+Continent and down the river, whose ascent he was about to make. Such men
+he could trust, besides, their experience would be of great avail in so
+perilous an enterprise. A second object of his visit to Zanzibar was to
+organize expeditions for the purpose of pushing westward and establishing
+permanent posts as far as the Congo. One of these, under Lieut. Cambier,
+established a line of posts stretching almost directly westward from
+Zanzibar to Nyangwe, and through a friendly country. With this work, and
+the enlistment of 68 Zanzibaris for his Congo expedition, three-fourths
+of whom had accompanied him across Africa, he was engaged until May,
+1879, when he sailed for the Congo, <i>via</i> the Red Sea and Mediterranean,
+and arrived at Banana Point at the mouth of the Congo, on Aug. 14, 1879,
+as he says, “to ascend the great river with the novel mission of sowing
+along its banks civilized settlements, to peacefully conquer and subdue
+it, to mold it in harmony with modern ideas into national States, within
+whose limits the European merchant shall go hand in hand with the dark
+African trader, and justice and law and order shall prevail, and murder
+and lawlessness and the cruel barter of slaves shall forever cease.”</p>
+
+<p>Once at Banana Point, all hands trimmed for the tropical heat. Heads
+were shorn close, heavy clothing was changed for soft, light flannels,
+hats gave place to ventilated caps, the food was changed from meat
+to vegetable, liquors gave place to coffee or tea&mdash;for be it known a
+simple glass of champagne may prove a prelude to a sun-stroke in African
+lowlands. The officers of the expedition here met&mdash;an international group
+indeed,&mdash;an American (Stanley), two Englishmen, five Belgians, two Danes,
+one Frenchman. The steamer Barga had long since arrived from Europe with
+a precious assortment of equipments, among which were building material
+and a flotilla of light steam launches. One of these, the <i>En Avant</i>
+was the first to discover Lake Leopold II, explore the Biyer&eacute; and reach
+Stanley Falls.</p>
+
+<p><!--034.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 579px;">
+<img src="images/i_031.jpg" width="579" height="381"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">GATHERING TO MARKET AT NYANGWE.</span>
+<a href="images/i_031x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--035.png--><span class="pagenum">32</span></p>
+
+<p>In seven days, August 21st, the expedition was under way, braving the
+yellow, giant stream with steel cutters, driven by steam. The river
+is three miles wide, from 60 to 900 feet deep, and with a current of
+six miles an hour. On either side are dark walls of mangrove and palm,
+through which course lazy, unknown creeks, alive only with the slimy
+reptilia of the coast sections. For miles the course is through the
+serene river flood, fringed by a leafy, yet melancholy nature. Then
+a cluster of factories, known as Kissinga, is passed, and the river
+is broken into channels by numerous islands, heavily wooded. Only
+the deeper channels are now navigable, and selecting the right ones
+the fleet arrives at Wood Point, a Dutch trading town, with several
+factories. Up to this point, the river has had no depth of less than
+16 feet, increased to 22 feet during the rainy season. The mangrove
+forests have disappeared, giving place to the statelier palms. Grassy
+plains begin to stretch invitingly down to the water’s edge. In the
+distance high ridges throw up their serrated outlines, and seemingly
+converge toward the river, as a look is taken ahead. Soon the wonderful
+Fetish Rocks are sighted, which all pilots approach with dread, either
+through superstition or because the deep current is broken by miniature
+whirlpools. One of these granite rocks stands on a high elevation and
+resembles a light-house. It is the Limbu-Li-Nzambi&mdash;“Finger of God”&mdash;of
+the natives.</p>
+
+<p>Boma is now reached. It is the principal emporium of trade on the
+Congo&mdash;the buying and selling mart for Banana Point, and connected with
+it by steamers. There is nothing picturesque hereabouts, yet Boma has a
+history as old as the slave trade in America, and as dark and horrible
+as that traffic was infamous. Here congregated the white slave dealers
+for over two centuries, and here they gathered the dusky natives by the
+thousand, chained them in gangs by the dozen or score, forced them into
+the holds of their slave-ships, and carried them away to be sold in the
+Brazils, West Indies and North America. Whole fleets of slave-ships
+have anchored off Boma, with their loads of rum, their buccaneer crews
+and blood-thirsty officers, intent on human booty. Happily, all is now
+changed and the Arab is the only recognized slave-stealer in Africa.
+Boma has several missions, and her traders are on good terms with the
+surrounding tribes. Her market is splendid, and here may be
+found<!--037.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">34</a></span>
+in
+plenty, oranges, citrons, limes, papaws, pine-apples, sweet potatoes,
+tomatoes, onions, turnips, cabbage, beets, carrots and lettuce, besides
+the meat of bullocks, sheep, goats and fowls.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 552px;">
+<img src="images/i_033.jpg" width="552" height="314"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A SLAVE-STEALER’S REVENGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>After establishing a headquarters at Boma, under the auspices of the
+International Commission, the expedition proceeded to Mussuko, where
+the heavier steamer, Albion, was dismissed, and where all the stores
+for future use were collected. This point is 90 miles from the sea.
+River reconnoissances were made in the lighter steamers, and besides the
+information picked up, the navigators were treated to a hippopotamus hunt
+which resulted in the capture of one giant specimen, upon whose back one
+of the Danish skippers mounted in triumph, that he might have a thrilling
+paragraph for his next letter to Copenhagen.</p>
+
+<p>Above Boma the Congo begins to narrow between verdure-clad hills rising
+from 300 to 1100 feet, and navigation becomes more difficult, though
+channels of 15 to 20 feet in depth are found. Further on, toward Vivi
+is a splendid reach of swift, deep water, with an occasional whirlpool,
+capable of floating the largest steamship. Vivi was to be a town founded
+under the auspices of the International Commission&mdash;an entrep&ocirc;t for
+an extensive country. The site was pointed out by De-de-de, chief of
+the contiguous tribe, who seemed to have quite as keen a commercial
+eye as his European visitors. Hither were gathered five of the most
+powerful chiefs of the vicinity, who were pledged, over draughts of
+fresh palm-juice, to recognize the newly established emporium. It is
+a salubrious spot, surrounded by high plateaus, affording magnificent
+views. From its lofty surroundings one may sketch a future, which shall
+abound in well worn turnpike roads, puffing steamers, and columns of busy
+trades-people. As Vivi is, the natives are by no means the worst sort of
+people. They wear a moderate amount of clothing, take readily to traffic,
+keep themselves well supplied with marketing, and use as weapons the old
+fashioned flint-lock guns they have secured in trade with Europeans.
+At the grand assemblage of chiefs, one of the dusky seniors voiced the
+unanimous sentiment thus:&mdash;“We, the big chiefs of Vivi are glad to see
+the mundel&eacute; (trader). If the mundel&eacute; has any wish to settle in this
+country, as Massala (the interpreter) informs us, we will
+welcome<!--038.png--><span class="pagenum">35</span>
+him,
+and will be great friends to him. Let the mundel&eacute; speak his mind freely.”</p>
+
+<p>Stanley replied that he was on a mission of peace, that he wanted to
+establish a commercial emporium, with the right to make roads to it
+and improve the surrounding country, and that he wanted free and safe
+intercourse with the people for all who chose to come there. If they
+would give guarantees to this effect, he would pay them for the right.
+Then began a four hour’s chaffer which resulted in the desired treaty.
+Apropos to this deal Stanley says:&mdash;“In the management of a bargain I
+should back the Congo native against Jew or Christian, Parsee, or Banyan,
+in all the round world. I have there seen a child of eight do more tricks
+of trade in an hour than the cleverest European trader on the Congo
+could do in a month. There is a little boy at Bolobo, aged six, named
+Lingeuji, who would make more profit out of a pound’s worth of cloth
+than an English boy of fifteen would out of ten pound’s worth. Therefore
+when I write of the Congo natives, Bakougo, Byyanzi or Bateke tribes, I
+associate them with an inconceivable amount of natural shrewdness and a
+power of indomitable and untiring chaffer.”</p>
+
+<p>Thus Vivi was acquired, and Stanley brought thither all his boats and
+supplies. He turned all his working force, a hundred in number, to laying
+out streets to the top of the plateau, where houses and stores were
+erected. The natives rendered assistance and were much interested in the
+smashing and removal of the boulders with the heavy sledges. They called
+Stanley Bula Matari&mdash;Rock Breaker&mdash;a title he came to be known by on
+the whole line of the Congo, up to Stanley Falls. Gardens were planted,
+shade trees were set out, and on January 8, 1880, Stanley wrote home
+that he had a site prepared for a city of 20,000 people, at the head
+of navigation on the lower Congo, and a center for trade with a large
+country, when suitable roads were built. He left it in charge of one of
+his own men, as governor, or chief, and started on his tedious and more
+perilous journey through the hills and valleys of the cataract region.
+This journey led him through various tribes, most of whom lived in neat
+villages, and were well supplied with live animals, garden produce and
+cotton clothing. They were friendly and disposed to encourage him in
+his enterprise of making a good commercial
+road<!--039.png--><span class="pagenum">36</span>
+from Vivi, around the
+cataracts, to some suitable station above, provided they were well paid
+for the right of way. A melancholy fact in connection with many of these
+tribes is that they have been decimated by internecine wars, mostly of
+the olden time, when the catching and selling of slaves was a business,
+and that thereby extensive tracts of good land have been abandoned to
+wild game, elephants, buffaloes, water-buck and antelopes, which breed
+and roam at pleasure. It was nothing unusual to see herds of half a dozen
+elephants luxuriously spraying their sunburnt backs in friendly pools,
+nor to startle whole herds of buffaloes, which would scamper away, with
+tails erect, for safety&mdash;cowards all, except when wounded and at bay, and
+then a very demon, fuller of fight than a tiger and even more dangerous
+than the ponderous elephant.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to the fact that the Congo threads its cataract section with
+immense falls and through deep gorges, this part of Stanley’s journey
+had to be made at some distance from its channel, and with only glimpses
+of its turbid waters, over lofty ridges, through deep grass-clothed or
+densely forested valleys, and across various tributaries, abounding in
+hippopotami and other water animals. Many fine views were had from the
+mountains of Ngoma. He decided that a road could be made from Vivi to
+Isangila, a distance of 52 miles, and that from Isangila navigation could
+be resumed on the Congo. And this road he now proceeded to make, for,
+though years before in his descent of the river he had dragged many heavy
+canoes for miles overland, and around similar obstructions, he now had
+heavier craft to carry, and objects of commerce in view. He had 106 men
+at his disposal at Vivi, who fell to work with good will, cutting down
+the tall grass, removing boulders, corduroying low grounds, bridging
+streams, and carrying on engineering much the same as if they were in a
+civilized land&mdash;the natives helping when so inclined. The workmen had
+their own supplies, which were supplemented by game, found in abundance,
+and were molested only by the snakes which were disturbed by the cutting
+and digging; of these, the spitting snake was the most dangerous, not
+because of its bite, but because it ejects its poison in a stream from
+a distance of six feet into the face and eyes of its enemy. The ill
+effects of such an injection lasts for a week or more. The tall grass
+was
+infested<!--041.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</a></span>
+with the whip-snake, the bulky python was found near the
+streams, while a peculiar green snake inhabited the trees of the stony
+sections and occasionally dangled in unpleasant proximity to the faces of
+the workmen.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 506px;">
+<img src="images/i_037.jpg" width="506" height="295"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">BUFFALO AT BAY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>As this road-making went on, constant communication was kept up with
+Vivi. The steamers were mounted on heavy wagons, and were drawn along by
+hand-power as the road progressed. Stores and utensils of every kind were
+similarly loaded and transported. The mules and asses, belonging to the
+expedition, were of course brought into requisition, but in nearly all
+cases their strength had to be supplemented by the workmen. Accidents
+were not infrequent, but fatal casualties were rare. Some died of
+disease, yet the general health was good. One of the coast natives fell
+a victim to an enraged hippopotamus, which crushed him and his bark as
+readily as an egg-shell.</p>
+
+<p>Thus the road progressed to Makeya Manguba, a distance of 22 miles from
+Vivi, and after many tedious trips to and fro, all the equipments of the
+expedition were brought to that point. The time consumed had been about
+five months&mdash;from March to August. Here the steel lighters were brought
+into requisition, and the equipments were carried by steam to a new camp
+on the Bundi river, where road making was even more difficult, because
+the forests were now dense and the woods&mdash;mahogany, teak, guaiacum and
+bombax&mdash;very hard. Fortunately the natives kept up a fine supply of
+sweet potatoes, bananas, fowls and eggs, which supplemented the usual
+rice diet of the workmen. It was with the greatest hardship that the
+road was completed between the Luenda and Lulu rivers, so thick were the
+boulders and so hard the material which composed them. The Europeans all
+fell sick, and even the natives languished. At length the Bula river was
+reached, 16 miles from the Bundi, where the camp was supplied with an
+abundance of buffalo and antelope meat.</p>
+
+<p>The way must now go either over the steep declivities of the Ngoma
+mountains, or around their jagged edges, where they abut on the roaring
+Congo. The latter was chosen, and for days the entire force were engaged
+in cutting a roadway along the sides of the bluffs. This completed, a
+short stretch of navigable water
+brought<!--043.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</a></span>
+them to Isangila, 52 miles from
+Vivi. It was now January 2, 1881. Thither all the supplies were brought,
+and the boats were scraped and painted, ready for the long journey to
+Manyanga. Stanley estimated that all the goings and comings on this 52
+miles of roadway would foot up 2,352 miles of travel; and it had cost the
+death of six Europeans and twenty-two natives, besides the retirement
+of thirteen invalids. Verily, it was a year dark with trial and unusual
+toil. But the cataracts had been overcome, and rest could be had against
+further labors and dangers.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 545px;">
+<img src="images/i_039.jpg" width="545" height="336"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">FIGHT WITH AN ENRAGED HIPPOPOTAMUS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The little steel lighters are now ready for their precious loads. In all,
+there has been collected at Isangila full fifty tons of freight, besides
+wagons and the traveling luggage of 118 colored carriers and attendants
+and pioneers. It is a long, long way to Manyanga, but if the river proves
+friendly, it ought to be reached in from seventy to eighty days. The
+Congo is three-quarters of a mile wide, with rugged shores and tumultuous
+currents. The little steamers have to feel their way, hugging the shores
+in order to avoid the swift waters of the outer channels, and starting
+every now and then with their paddles the drowsy crocodiles from their
+habitat. The astonished creatures dart forward, at first, as if to attack
+the boats, but of a sudden disappear in the flood, to rise again in the
+rear and give furious chase at a distance they deem quite safe. This part
+of the river is known as Long Reach. These reaches, or stretches, some
+of them five miles long, are expansions of the river, between points of
+greater fall, and are more easily navigable than where the stream narrows
+or suddenly turns a point. The ca&ntilde;on appearance of the shores now begins
+to disappear, and extensive grass-grown plains stretch occasionally to
+the water’s edge.</p>
+
+<p>At the camp near Kololo Point, where the river descends swiftly, the
+expedition was met by Crudington and Bentley, two missionaries, who were
+fleeing in a canoe from the natives of Kinshassa, where they had been
+surrounded by an armed mob and threatened with their lives. They were
+given protection and sent to Isangila. Stanley had now to mourn the loss
+of his most trustworthy messenger, Soudi. He had gone back to Vivi for
+the European mail and on the way had met a herd of buffaloes; selecting
+the finest, he discharged his rifle at it and killed it, as he thought.
+But when
+he<!--044.png--><span class="pagenum">41</span>
+rushed up to cut its jugular vein, the beast arose in
+fury, and tossed and mangled poor Soudi so that he died soon after his
+companions came to his rescue.</p>
+
+<p>Stretch after stretch of the turbulent Congo is passed, and camp after
+camp has been formed and vacated. At all camps, where practicable, the
+natives have been taken into confidence, and the intent of the expedition
+made known. With hardly an exception they fell into the spirit of the
+undertaking, and gladly welcomed the opportunity to open commerce with
+the outer world. The Nzambi rapids now offer an obstacle to navigation,
+but soon a safe channel is found, and a magnificent stretch of water
+leads to a bay at the mouth of the Kwilu river, a navigable stream, with
+a depth of eight feet, a width of forty yards and a current of five miles
+an hour. The question of food now became pressing. Each day the banks
+of the river were scoured for rations, by gangs of six men, whose duty
+it was to purchase and bring in cassava, bread, bananas, Indian corn,
+sweet potatoes, etc., not forgetting fowls, eggs, goats, etc., for the
+Europeans. But these men found it hard work to obtain fair supplies.</p>
+
+<p>By April 7th the camp was at Kimbanza opposite the mouth of the Lukunga
+and in the midst of a land of plenty, and especially of crocodiles, which
+fairly infest the river and all the tributaries thereof. Here, too, are
+myriads of little fish like minnows, or sardines, which the natives catch
+in great quantities, in nets, and prepare for food by baking them in the
+sun. The population is quite dense, and of the same amiable mood, the
+same desire to traffic, and the same willingness to enter into treaties,
+as that on the river below.</p>
+
+<p>Further up are the Ndunga people and the Ndunga Rapids, where the
+river is penned in between high, forbidding walls and where nature has
+begrudged life of every kind to the scene. But out among the villages
+all is different. The people are thrifty and sprightly. Their markets
+are full of sweet potatoes, eggs, fish, palm-wine, etc., and the shapely
+youths, male and female, indulge in dances which possess as much poetry
+of motion as the terpsichorean performances of the more highly favored
+children of civilization.</p>
+
+<p><!--045.png--><span class="pagenum">42</span></p>
+
+<p>The next station was Manyanga, a destination indeed, for here is a
+formidable cataract, which defies the light steamers of the expedition,
+and there will have to be another tedious portage to the open waters
+of Stanley Pool. It was now May 1, 1881. Manyanga is 140 miles from
+Vivi. The natives were friendly but adverse to founding a trading town
+in their midst. Yet Stanley resolved that it should be a station and
+supply point for the 95 miles still to be traversed to Stanley Pool. He
+fell sick here, of fever, and lay for many days unconscious. Such was
+his prostration, when he returned to his senses, that he despaired of
+recovery, and bade his attendants farewell.</p>
+
+<p>In the midst of hardship which threatened to break his expedition up at
+this point, he was rejoiced to witness the arrival of a relief expedition
+from below, other boats, plenty of provisions and a corps of workmen.
+Then the site of the town of Manyanga was laid out, and a force of men
+was employed to build a road around the cataract and haul the boats over
+it. This point is the center of exchange for a wide territory. Slaves,
+ivory, rubber, oil, pigs, sheep, goats and fowls are brought in abundance
+to the market, and it is a favorite stopping-place for caravans from
+the mouth of the Congo to Stanley Pool. But the natives are crusty, and
+several times Stanley had to interfere to stop the quarrels which arose
+between his followers and the insolent market people. At length the town
+was fortified, provisioned and garrisoned, and the expedition was on
+its way to Stanley Pool, around a portage of six miles in length, and
+again into the Congo; then up and up, with difficult navigation, past
+the mouths of inflowing rivers, around other tedious portages, through
+quaint and curious tribes, whose chiefs grow more and more fantastic in
+dress and jealous of power, till they even come to rival that paragon of
+strutting kingliness, the famed Mtesa of Uganda. Though not hostile, they
+were by no means amiable, having made a recent cession of the country on
+the north of the Congo to French explorers. King Itsi, or Ngalyema, was
+among the most powerful of them and upon him was to turn the fortune of
+the expedition in the waters of the upper Congo. Stanley made the happy
+discovery that this Ngalyema was the Itsi, of whom he had made a blood
+brother on his descent of the
+river,<!--047.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">44</a></span>
+and this circumstance soon paved
+the way to friendship and protection, despite the murmurs and threats of
+neighboring chiefs.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 541px;">
+<img src="images/i_043.jpg" width="541" height="332"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ROUNDING A PORTAGE.</span>
+<a href="images/i_043x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>The last king of note, before reaching Stanley Pool, was Makoko, who
+favored the breaking of rocks and the cutting down of trees in order
+to pass boats over the country, but who wanted it understood that his
+people owned the country and did not intend to part with their rights
+without due consideration. Scarcely had a treaty been struck with him
+when Stanley was informed that Ngalyema was on his track with two hundred
+warriors, and determined to wipe out his former negotiations with blood.
+Already the sound of his war-drums and the shouts of his soldiers were
+heard in the distance. Stanley ordered his men to arm quickly and
+conceal themselves in the bush, but to rush out frantically and make a
+mock attack when they heard the gong sounding. Ngalyema appeared upon
+the scene with his forces and informed Stanley that he could not go to
+Kintamo, for Makoko did not own the land there. After a long talk, the
+stubborn chief left the tent in anger and with threats of extermination
+on his lips; but as he passed the inclosure, he was attracted by the
+gong, swinging in the wind.</p>
+
+<p>“What is this?” he asked.</p>
+
+<p>“It is fetish,” replied Stanley.</p>
+
+<p>“Strike it; let me hear it,” he exclaimed.</p>
+
+<p>“Oh, Ngalyema, I dare not; it is the war fetish.”</p>
+
+<p>“No, no, no! I tell you to strike.”</p>
+
+<p>“Well, then!”</p>
+
+<p>Here Stanley struck the gong with all his force, and in an instant a
+hundred armed men sprang from the bush and rushed with demoniac yells
+upon the haughty chief and his followers, keeping up all the while such
+demonstrations as would lead to the impression that the next second would
+bring an annihilating volley from their guns. The frightened king clung
+to Stanley for protection. His followers fled in every direction.</p>
+
+<p>“Shall I strike the fetish again?” inquired Stanley.</p>
+
+<p>“No, no! don’t touch it!” exclaimed the now subdued king; and the broken
+treaty was solemnized afresh over a gourd of palm-wine. Makoko was jolly
+over the discomfiture of his powerful rival.</p>
+
+<p><!--048.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">45</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 339px;">
+<img src="images/i_045.jpg" width="339" height="519"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A NARROW ESCAPE. </span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--049.png--><span class="pagenum">46</span></p>
+
+<p>These Kintamo people, sometimes called the Wambunda, now gave to Stanley
+some 78 carriers and greatly assisted him in making his last twelve miles
+of roadway and in conveying his boats and wagons over it. The expedition
+was now in sight of Stanley Pool, beyond the region of the cataracts, and
+at the foot of navigation on the upper Congo. It was now Dec. 3, 1881,
+the boats were all brought up and launched in smooth water, a station was
+founded, and the expedition prepared for navigation on that stupendous
+stretch of water between Stanley Pool and Stanley Falls.</p>
+
+<p>The Kintamo station was called Leopoldville, in honor of king Leopold of
+Belgium, European patron of the Congo Free State, and to whose generosity
+more than that of any other the entire expedition was due. It was the
+most important town thus far founded on the Congo, for it was the center
+of immense tribal influence, a base of operations for 5000 miles of
+navigable waters, and a seat of plenty if the chiefs remained true to
+their concessions. It was therefore well protected with a block-house
+and garrison, while the magazine was stocked with food and ammunition.
+Gardens were laid out and planted, stores were erected in which goods
+were displayed, and soon Stanley had the pleasure of seeing the natives
+bringing ivory and marketing for traffic. The stay of the expedition at
+Leopoldville was somewhat lengthy and it was April, 19, 1882, before it
+embarked for the upper Congo, with its 49 colored men, four whites, and
+129 carrier-loads of equipments.</p>
+
+<p>The boats passed Bamu Island, 14 miles in length, which occupies the
+center of Stanley Pool, the stream being haunted by hippopotami and the
+interior of the island by elephants and buffaloes, adventures with which
+were common. The shores are yet bold and wooded, monkeys in troops fling
+themselves from tree to tree, white-collared fish eagles dart with shrill
+screams across the wide expanse of waters, and crocodiles stare wildly at
+the approaching steamers, only to dart beneath them as they near and then
+to reappear in their wake. Says Stanley, of this part of the river:</p>
+
+<p>“From the Belize to Omaha, on the line of the Mississippi, I have seen
+nothing to excite me to poetic madness. The Hudson is a trifle better
+in its upper part. The Indus, the Ganges, the Irrawaddy, the Euphrates,
+the Nile, the Niger, the La Platte,
+the<!--051.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span>
+Amazon&mdash;I think of them all,
+and I can see no beauty on their shores that is not excelled many fold
+by the natural beauty of this scenery, which, since the Congo highlands
+were first fractured by volcanic caprice or by some wild earth-dance, has
+remained unknown, unhonored and unsung.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 574px;">
+<img src="images/i_047.jpg" width="574" height="323"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">WHITE-COLLARED FISH EAGLES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>From Stanley Pool to Mswata, a distance of 64 miles, the river has a
+width of 1500 yards, a depth sufficient to float the largest steamer, and
+heavily wooded banks. The people are of the Kitek&eacute; tribes and are broken
+into many bands, ruled by a high class of chieftains, who are not averse
+to the coming of the white man. The Congo receives an important tributary
+near Mswata, called the Kwa. This Stanley explored for 200 miles, past
+the Holy Isle, or burial place of the Wabuma kings and queens, through
+populous and pleasantly situated villages and onward to a splendid
+expanse of water, which was named Lake Leopold II.</p>
+
+<p>It was during his exploration of the Kwa that Stanley fell sick; and on
+his return to Mswata, was compelled to return to Leopoldville and so
+back to Manyanga, Vivi, and the various stations he had founded, to the
+coast, whence he sailed for Loando, to take a steamer for Europe. The
+three-year service of his Zanzibaris was about to expire; and when he met
+at Vivi, the German, Dr. Peschnel-Loeche, with a large force of men and
+a commission to take charge of the expedition, should anything happen to
+him (Stanley), he felt that it was in the nature of a reprieve.</p>
+
+<p>On August 17, 1882, he sailed from Loando for Lisbon. On his arrival in
+Europe, he laid before the International Association a full account of
+the condition of affairs on the Congo. He had founded five of the eight
+stations at first projected, had constructed many miles of wagon road,
+had left a steamer and sailing vessels on the Upper Congo, had opened
+the country to traffic up to the mouth of the Kwa, a distance of 400
+miles from the coast, had found the natives amiable and willing to work
+and trade, and had secured treaties and concessions which guaranteed
+the permanency of the benefits sought to be obtained by the expedition
+and the founding of a great Free State. Yet with all this he declared
+that “the Congo basin is not worth a two-shilling piece in its present
+state, and that to reduce it to profitable order a railroad must be
+built from the lower to
+the<!--052.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">49</a></span>
+upper river.” Such road must be solely for
+the benefit of Central Africa and of such as desire to traffic in that
+region. He regarded the first phase of his mission as over&mdash;the opening
+of communication between the Atlantic and Upper Congo. The second phase
+he regarded as the obtaining of concessions from all the chiefs along the
+way, without which they would be in a position to force an abandonment of
+every commercial enterprise.</p>
+
+<p>The International Association heard him patiently and offered to provide
+funds for his more extensive work, provided he would undertake it. He
+consented to do so and to push his work to Stanley Falls, if they would
+give him a reliable governor for the establishments on the Lower Congo.
+Such a man was promised; and after a six weeks’ stay in Europe, he sailed
+again for Congo-land on November 23, 1882.</p>
+
+<p>He found his trading stations in confusion, and spent some time in
+restoring order, and re-victualling the empty store-houses. The temporary
+bridges on his hastily built roads had begun to weaken and one at the
+Mpalanga crossing gave way, compelling a tedious delay with the boats and
+wagons he was pushing on to the relief of Leopoldville. Here he found no
+progress had been made and that under shameful neglect everything was
+going to decay. Even reciprocity with the natives had been neglected,
+and garrison and tribes had agreed to let one another severely alone.
+To rectify all he found wrong required heroic exertion. He found one
+source of gratification in the fact that two English religious missions
+had been founded on the ground of the Association, one a Baptist, the
+other undenominational. Dr. Sims, head of the Baptists, was the first
+to navigate the waters of the Upper Congo, and occupy a station above
+Stanley Pool, but soon after the Livingstone, or undenominational
+mission, established a station at the Equator. Both missions now have
+steamers at their disposal, and are engaged in peaceful rivalry for moral
+conquest in the Congo Basin.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_050.jpg" width="600" height="384"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A TEMPORARY CROSSING.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The relief of Leopoldville accomplished, Stanley started in his
+steam-launches, one of which was new (May 9, 1883), for the upper waters
+of the Congo, with eighty men. Passing his former station at Mswata,
+he sailed for Bolobo, passing through a country with few villages and
+alive with lions, elephants, buffaloes and
+antelopes,<!--054.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">51</a></span>
+proof that the
+population is sparse at a distance from the river. Beyond the mouth of
+the Lawson, the Congo leaves behind its bold shores and assumes a broader
+width. It now becomes lacustrine and runs lazily through a bed carved
+out of virgin soil. This is the real heart of equatorial Africa, rich
+alluvium, capable of supporting a countless population and of enriching
+half a world.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 519px;">
+<img src="images/i_051.jpg" width="519" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">WEAVER-BIRD’S NEST.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Bolobo country is densely populated, but flat and somewhat unhealthy.
+The villages arise in quick succession, and perhaps 10,000 people live
+along the river front. They are peaceful, inclined to trade, but easily
+offended at any show of superiority on the part of white men. Ibaka is
+the leading chief. He it was who conducted negotiations for Gatula, who
+had murdered two white men, and who had been arraigned for his double
+crime before Stanley,</p>
+
+<p><!--055.png--><span class="pagenum">52</span></p>
+
+<p>The latter insisted upon the payment of a heavy fine by the offending
+chief&mdash;or war. After long deliberation, the fine was paid, much to
+Stanley’s relief, for war would have defeated the whole object of his
+expedition. Ibaka’s remark, when the affair was so happily ended, was:
+“Gatula has received such a fright and has lost so much money, that
+he will never be induced to murder a man again. No, indeed, he would
+rather lose ten of his women than go through this scene again.” A Bolobo
+concession for the Association was readily obtained in a council of the
+chiefs.</p>
+
+<p>And this station at Bolobo was most important. The natives are energetic
+traders, and have agents at Stanley Pool and points further down the
+river, to whom they consign their ivory and camwood powder, very much
+as if they were Europeans or Americans. They even acquire and enjoy
+fortunes. One of them, Manguru, is a nabob after the modern pattern,
+worth fully $20,000, and his canoes and slaves exploit every creek
+and affluent of the Congo, gathering up every species of merchandise
+available for the coast markets. Within two hours of Bolobo is the market
+place of the By-yanzi tribe. The town is called Mpumba. It is a live
+place on market days, and the fakirs vie with each other in the sale of
+dogs, crocodiles, hippopotamus meat, snails, fish and red-wood powder.</p>
+
+<p>Negotiations having been completed at Bolobo, and the station fully
+established, Stanley started with his flotilla, May 28th, on his way up
+the river. The natives whom he expected to confront were the Uyanzi and
+Ubangi. He was well provided with guides from Bolobo, among whom were two
+of Ibaka’s slaves. The shores of the river were now densely wooded, and
+the river itself spread out to the enormous width of five miles, which
+space was divided into channels by islands, miles in length, and covered
+with rubber trees, tamarinds, baobab, bombax, red-wood, palms and date
+palms, all of which were interwoven with profuse creepers, making an
+impenetrable mass of vegetation, royal to look upon, but suggestive of
+death to any one who dared to lift the verdant veil and look behind.</p>
+
+<p>Slowly the tiny steamers push against the strong currents and make
+their way through this luxuriant monotony, broken, to be sure, every
+now and then, by the flit of a sun-bird, the chirp of
+a<!--056.png--><span class="pagenum">53</span>
+weaver, the
+swish of a bamboo reed, the graceful nodding of an overgrown papyrus,
+the scurrying of a flock of parrots, the yawn of a lazy hippopotamus,
+the plunge of a crocodile, the chatter of a disturbed monkey colony, the
+scream of the white-collared fish eagle, the darting of a king-fisher,
+the pecking of wag-tails, the starting of jays and flamingoes. Yet with
+all these appeals to eye and ear, there is the sepulchral gloom of
+impervious forest, the sad expanse of grassy plain, the spectral isles
+of the stream, the vast dome of tropical sky, and the sense of slowness
+of motion and cramped quarters, which combine to produce a melancholy
+almost appalling. It is by no means a Rhine journey, with gay steamers,
+flush with food and wine. The Congo is one-and-a-half times larger
+than the Mississippi, and with a width which is majestic in comparison
+with the “Father of Waters.” It shows a dozen varieties of palm. Its
+herds of hippopotami, flocks of gleeful monkeys, troops of elephants
+standing sentry at forest entrances, bevies of buffaloes grazing on
+its grassy slopes, swarms of ibis, parrots and guinea-fowl fluttering
+everywhere&mdash;these create a life for the Congo, surpassing in variety that
+of the Mississippi. But the swift-moving, strong, sonorous steamer, and
+the bustling river town, are wanting.</p>
+
+<p>At last night comes, and the flotilla is twenty miles above Bolobo. Night
+does not mean the end of a day’s work with the expedition, but rather
+the beginning of one, for it is the signal for all hands to put ashore
+with axes and saws to cut and carry a supply of wood for the morrow’s
+steaming. A great light is lit upon the shore, and for hours the ringing
+of axes is heard, varied by the woodman’s weird chant. The supply is
+borne back in bundles, the tired natives eat their cassava bread and
+boiled rice suppers, the whites partake of their roast goat’s meat,
+beans, bananas, honey, milk and coffee, and then all is silence on the
+deep, dark river. The camp is Ugende, still in the By-yanzi country. The
+natives are suspicious at first, but are appeased by the order that every
+member of the expedition shall make up his reedy couch in close proximity
+to the steamers.</p>
+
+<p>The next day’s steaming is through numerous villages, banana groves, palm
+groups, and an agreeable alternation of bluff and vale. The Levy Hills
+approach the water in the airy red projections
+of<!--057.png--><span class="pagenum">54</span>
+Iyumbi. The natives
+gaze in awe upon the passing flotilla, as much as to say, “What does it
+all mean?” “Has doom indeed dawned for us?” Two hours above Iyumbi the
+steamers lose their way in the multitude of channels, and have to put
+back. On their return, twenty canoes are sighted in a creek. Information
+must be had, and the whale-boat is launched and ordered to visit the
+canoes. At sight of it, the occupants of the canoes flee. Chase is given,
+and five miles are passed before the whale-boat catches up. The occupants
+of the canoes are found to be women, who jump into the water and escape
+through the reeds to the shore. They prove dumb to all inquiries as to
+the river courses, and might as well have been spared their fright.</p>
+
+<p>On May 31st the journey was against a head wind, and so slow that two
+trading canoes, each propelled by twenty By-yanzi paddles, bound for
+Ubangi, kept pace with the steamers all day. Provisions were now running
+low. Since leaving Bolobo, the eighty natives and seven Europeans had
+consumed at the rate of 250 pounds of food daily. It was therefore time
+to prepare for barter with the settlement which came into view on June
+1st, and which the guides called Lukolela.</p>
+
+<p>Lukolela is a succession of the finest villages thus far seen on the
+Congo. They are composed of substantial huts, built on a bold shore, and
+amid a primeval forest, thinned of its trees to give building spaces. The
+natives are still of the Wy-yanzi tribe, and whether friendly or not,
+could not be ascertained on first approach. Stanley took no chances with
+them, but steaming slowly past their five mile of villages, he ordered
+all the showy calicoes and trinkets to be displayed, and placed his
+guides and interpreters in the bows of the boats to harangue the natives
+and proclaim his desire to trade in peace. Though the throng gradually
+increased on the shore and became more curious as each village was
+passed, it gave no response except that the country had been devastated
+by frightful disease and was in a state of starvation. Horrid indeed was
+the situation, if they spoke the truth! But what of the fat, well-to-do
+looking people on the banks? Ah! there must be something wrong somewhere!
+The steamers passed above the villages and put up for the night. Soon the
+natives came trooping from the villages,
+bearing<!--059.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">56</a></span>
+loads of fowls, goats,
+plantains, bananas, cassava, sweet-potatoes, yams, eggs, and palm-oil,
+and all eager for a trade. Barter was brisk that night, and was resumed
+the next morning, when canoe after canoe appeared, loaded down with
+rations. A supply of food for eight days was secured. They excused their
+falsehoods of the previous day to the fear they had of the steamers.
+On finding that they were not dangerous, their cowardice turned into
+admiration of a craft they had never seen before.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_055.jpg" width="600" height="346"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NATIVES’ CURIOSITY AT SIGHT OF A WHITE MAN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Congo now ran through banks 100 feet high and a mile and a half
+apart, clothed with magnificent timber. Between these the flotilla sailed
+on June 2d, being visited occasionally by native fishermen with fish to
+sell. The camp this night was in a deserted spot, with nothing to cheer
+it except dense flocks of small birds, followed by straggling armies of
+larger ones resembling crows. On the evening of June 3d the steamers
+reached a point a few miles below Ngomb&eacute;. Here Stanley was surprised to
+hear his name called, in good English, by the occupants of two canoes,
+who had fish and crocodiles to sell. He encouraged the mongers by making
+a purchase, and on inquiry found that the natives here carry on quite a
+brisk trade in young crocodiles, which they rear for the markets. They
+procure the eggs, hatch them in the sand, and then secure the young ones
+in ponds, covered with nets, till they are old enough to market.</p>
+
+<p>Ngomb&eacute; was now sighted, on a bank 40 feet above the river, amid a wealth
+of banana groves and other signs of abundance. Above and below Ngomb&eacute; the
+river is from four to five miles wide, but here it narrows to two miles
+and flows with a swift current. The sail over the wide stretch above
+Ngomb&eacute; was through the land of the Nkuku, a trading people. At Butunu the
+steamers were welcomed with delight, and the shores echoed with shouts
+of “Malamu!” Good! But it remained for the Usindi to greet the travelers
+with an applause which was ridiculously uproarious. Hundreds of canoes
+pushed into the stream, followed and surrounded the steamers, their
+occupants cheering as though they were frantic, and quite drowning every
+counter demonstration. At length a dozen of them sprang aboard one of the
+steamers, shook hands with all the crew, and gratified their curiosity
+by a close inspection of the machinery
+and<!--061.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">58</a></span>
+equipments. Then they would
+have the steamers put back to their landing at Usindi, where the welcome
+was continued more obstreperously than ever. The secret of it all was
+that these people were great river traders, and many of them had been to
+Leopoldville and Kintamo, 300 miles below, where they had seen houses,
+boats and wagons. They were a polished people, not given to show of their
+weapons for purposes of terrorizing their visitors, and kindly in the
+extreme. Iuka, their king, besought Stanley to make a station at Usindi
+and enter into permanent trade relations with his people.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_057.jpg" width="600" height="346"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">CAPTURING A CROCODILE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A very few miles above Usindi the flotilla entered a deep channel of the
+Congo, which seemed to pass between fruitful islands, whose shores were
+lined with people. They were ominously quiet till the steamers passed,
+when they gave pursuit in their canoes. The steamers stopped, and the
+pursuers made the announcement that they bore an invitation from King
+Mangombo, of Irebu, to visit him. Mention of the Irebu was enough to
+determine Stanley. They are the champion traders of the Upper Congo, and
+are equalled only by the powerful Ubanzi who live on the north side of
+that great flood. The Irebu have, time and again, borne down upon the
+Lukolela, Ngomb&eacute;, Nkuku, Butunu and Usindi, and even the fierce Bengala,
+and taught them all how to traffic in peace and with credit.</p>
+
+<p>When the steamers came to anchor at Mangambo’s village, the aged king
+headed a procession of his people and welcomed Stanley by shaking his
+hand in civilized fashion. There were cheers, to be sure, but not the
+wild vociferations of those who looked upon his flotilla as something
+supernatural. There was none of that eager curiosity which characterizes
+the unsophisticated African, but a dignified bearing and frank speech.
+They had an air of knowledge and travel which showed that their
+intercourse with the trading world had not been in vain. They know the
+Congo by heart from Stanley Pool to Upoto, a distance of 600 miles; are
+acquainted with the military strength and commercial genius of all the
+tribes, and can compute the value of cloth, metals, beads and trinkets,
+in ivory, livestock and market produce, as quickly as the most skillful
+accountant. Blood brotherhood was made with Mangombo, valuable gifts
+were interchanged, and then the chief, in a long speech, asked
+Stanley<!--062.png--><span class="pagenum">59</span>
+to intercede in his behalf in a war he was waging with Magwala and
+Mpika,&mdash;which he did in such a way as to bring about a truce.</p>
+
+<p>The large tributary, Lukanga, enters the Congo near Irebu, with its black
+waters and sluggish current. The flotilla left the mouth of the Lukanga
+on June 6th, and after a sail of 50 miles, came to Ikengo on June 8th.
+The route had been between many long islands, heavily wooded, while the
+shores bore an unbroken forest of teak, mahogany, gum, bombax and other
+valuable woods. At Ikengo the natives came dashing into the stream in
+myriad of canoes shouting their welcomes and praising the merits of their
+respective villages. Here it was, “Come to Ikengo!” There it was, “Come
+to Itumba!” Between it was, “Come to Inganda!” With all it was, “We have
+women, ivory, slaves, goats, sheep, pigs,” etc. It was more like a fakir
+scene in Constantinople or Cairo than a pagan greeting in the heart of
+the wilderness. Perhaps both their familiarity and importunity was due in
+great part to the fact they remembered Stanley on his downward trip years
+before.</p>
+
+<p>Having, in 1877, been royally received at Inganda, Stanley landed there,
+and stopped temporarily among those healthy, bronze-colored denizens,
+with their fantastic caps of monkey, otter, leopard or goat skin, and
+their dresses of grassy fibre. From this point Stanley made a personal
+exploration to the large tributary of the Congo, called the Mohindu,
+which he had mapped on his trip down the Congo. He found what he had
+conceived to be an affluent of 1,000 yards wide, to be one of only 600
+yards wide, with low shores, running into extensive timber swamps. He
+called it an African Styx. But further up it began to develop banks.
+Soon villages appeared, and by and by came people, armed, yellow-bodied,
+and dancing as if they meant to awe the occupants of the boat. But the
+boat did not stop till it arrived at a cheerful village, 80 miles up the
+river, where, on attempting to stop, it was warned off with the threat
+that a landing would be a sure signal for a fight. Not wishing to tempt
+them too far, the steamer put back, receiving as a farewell a volley of
+sticks and stones which fell far short of their object.</p>
+
+<p>On the return of the steamer to Inganda, preparation was made for the
+sail to the next station up the Congo, which being in
+the<!--063.png--><span class="pagenum">60</span>
+latitude of
+only one minute north of the Equator, or, in other words, as nearly under
+it as was possible, was called Equator Station. This station was made a
+permanent one by the appointment of Lieut. Vangele as commander, with a
+garrison of 20 men. Lieut. Coquilhat, with 20 men, was also left there,
+till reinforcements and supplies should come up from Leopoldville. After
+remaining here long enough to prepare a station site and appease the
+neighboring chiefs with gifts, the balance of the expedition returned
+down the river to Inganda, or rather to Irebu, for it had been determined
+that Inganda was too sickly a place for a station. Yet how were these
+hospitable people to be informed of the intended change of base without
+giving offence? Stanley’s guide kindly took the matter in hand, and his
+method would have done credit to a Philadelphia lawyer. Rubbing his
+eyes with pepper till the tears streamed down his cheeks, and assuming
+a broken-hearted expression, he stepped ashore among the assembled
+natives, as the boat touched at Inganda, and took a position in their
+midst, utterly regardless of their shouts of welcome and their other
+evidences of hearty greeting. To all their anxious inquiries he responded
+nothing, being wholly engaged in his role of sorrow. At last, when their
+importunity could not be further resisted, he told them a pitiful story
+of hardship and death in an imaginary encounter up the river, and how
+Mangombo’s boy, of Irebu, had fallen a victim, beseeching them to join in
+a war of redress, etc., etc. The acting of the native guide was complete,
+and all Inganda was so deceived by it and so bent on a war of revenge
+that it quite forgot to entertain any ill-feeling at the departure of the
+steamer and the abandonment of the station. So Stanley sailed down to
+Irebu, where he found his truce broken and Mangombo plunged again into
+fierce war with his neighbors&mdash;Mpika and Magwala.</p>
+
+<p>Once more Stanley interceded by calling a council of the chiefs on both
+sides. After an impressive speech, in which he detailed the horrors of
+war and the folly of further slaughter over a question of a few slaves,
+he induced the hostile chiefs to shake hands and exchange pledges of
+peace. They ratified the terms by firing a salute over the grave of the
+war, and disbanded. Irebu is a large collection of villages extending
+for fully five miles along the Congo and
+Lukanga,<!--065.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">62</a></span>
+and carrying a depth
+of two miles into the country. These closely knitted villages contain
+a population of 15,000 people, with as many more in the immediate
+neighborhood.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_061.jpg" width="600" height="346"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">LIONS DRAGGING DOWN A BUFFALO.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Lukanga was now explored. Its sluggish, reed-obstructed mouth soon
+brought the exploring steamer into a splendid lake with village-lined
+shores. This was Lake Mantumba, 144 miles in circumference. The
+inhabitants are experts in the manufacture of pottery and camwood powder
+and carry on a large ivory trade with the Watwa dwarfs.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley then returned to the Congo and continued his downward journey,
+rescuing in one place the occupants of a capsized canoe; at another
+giving aid to a struggling Catholic priest on his way to the mouth of
+the Kwa to establish a mission; trying an ineffectual shot at a lion
+crouching on the bank and gazing angrily at the flotilla, pursuing its
+fleeing form, only to stumble on the freshly-slain carcass of a buffalo
+which the forest-king had stricken down while it was drinking, and at
+length arriving at Leopoldville, after an absence of 57 days, to find
+there several new houses, erected by the commandant, Lieut. Valcke, who
+had also founded the new station of Kinshassa. Where two months before
+all was wilderness, now fully 500 banana-trees were flourishing, terms
+of peace had been kept with the whimsical Ngalyema, and the store-rooms
+of the station were regular banks, that is, they were well stocked with
+brass rods, the circulating medium of the country.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley remained at Leopoldville for some time, rectifying mischiefs
+which had occurred at Vivi and Manyanga, and dispatching men and supplies
+up to Bolobo. Here incidents crowded upon him. Having commissioned a
+young continental officer to establish a station on the opposite side of
+the river, the fellow no sooner arrived on the ground than he developed a
+homicidal mania and shot one of his own sergeants. He was brought back in
+a tattered and dazed condition and dismissed down the river. Word came of
+the destruction of a canoe by a gale near the mouth of the Kwa, and the
+drowning of Lieut. Jansen and twelve people, among whom was Abb&eacute; Guyot,
+the Catholic priest above mentioned. From Kimpoko station came word that
+a quarrel had broken out there with the natives and that relief must
+be had. A visit showed the station to have
+been<!--066.png--><span class="pagenum">63</span>
+deserted, and it was
+destroyed and abandoned. More and more awful grew the situation. A canoe
+courier brought the harrowing word that Bolobo had been burned, with all
+the freshly dispatched goods.</p>
+
+<p>This news spurred Stanley to a hasty start for the ill-fated station on
+August 22d. Arriving opposite Bolobo, Stanley’s rear steamers were fired
+upon from an ambush on the shore, and forced to administer a return fire.
+His steamers had never been fired upon before. He effected a landing
+at Bolobo, only to find a majority of the villages hostile to him, and
+bent on keeping up a desultory fire from the bush. So, unloading one
+of the steamers, he sent it back to Leopoldville to bring up quickly
+a Krupp cannon and ammunition. Despite his endeavors to bring about a
+better feeling, Stanley’s men were fired upon daily, and they returned
+it as best they could, occasionally killing a native, and doing damage
+to their banana trees, beer pots and chicken coups. At length the
+wounding of a chief brought about a parley and offers of peace tokens,
+but Stanley replied that since they seemed to be so fond of fighting,
+and were not doing him any particular harm, he proposed to keep it up
+from day to day till his monster gun arrived from Stanley Pool, when he
+would blow them all sky-high. This awful threat was too much for them. A
+nine days’ palaver ensued, which resulted in their payment of a fine and
+renewed peace. But when the great gun arrived, they saw, in the absence
+of trigger, stock and ramrod, so little likeness to a gun, that they
+claimed Stanley had deceived them, and refused to be propitiated till he
+proved it to be what he had represented. The Congo at Bolobo is 4,000
+yards wide. Stanley ordered the cannon to be fired at a range of 2,000
+yards, and when they saw a column of water thrown up by the striking of
+the charge at that distance, and witnessed the recoil of the piece, they
+began to think it was indeed a terrible weapon. They were still further
+convinced of the truth of his representations by a second shot, which
+carried the charge to a distance of 3,000 yards.</p>
+
+<p>It was by such manœuvres as these that Stanley established fresh
+relations with these Wy-yanzi tribes. They are naturally wild and
+turbulent. A dispute over a brass rod, or a quarrel over a pot of beer,
+is a signal for war. Superstition rules them, as few tribes
+are<!--067.png--><span class="pagenum">64</span>
+ruled. A
+bad dream by a chief may lead to the suspicion that he is bewitched, and
+some poor victim is sure to suffer burning for witchcraft. Ibaka caused a
+young girl to be strangled because her lover had sickened and died. At an
+upper village forty-five people were slaughtered over the grave of their
+chief&mdash;a sort of propitiatory sacrifice.</p>
+
+<p>After all matters had been settled, Stanley read them a lecture on the
+folly of fighting friendly white men, who had never done them an injury,
+and did not intend to. To show his appreciation of the situation, he made
+them a present of cloth and brass rods, and offered to pay for a treat of
+beer. They went out and held a palaver, and then returned with a request
+that the gifts be duplicated. “Never!” shouted Stanley. “Ibaka, this land
+is yours. Take it. I and my people depart from Bolobo forever!”</p>
+
+<p>To this all the chiefs remonstrated, saying they had no intention of
+driving him away, and explaining that their demand was only according to
+the custom of the Wy-yanzi to always ask for twice as much as was offered
+them. Despite this rather surprising commercial spirit, they are not a
+vindictive people&mdash;simply superstitious and quarrelsome.</p>
+
+<p>After these difficulties, Stanley resumed his up-river journey for
+Lukolela, passing on the way the mouths of the Minken&eacute; river, of the
+Likuba, and of the larger river Bunga, whose banks are thickly strewn
+with villages. Once at Lukolela, a station was formed by clearing away
+the tall forest trees. Though the forests were magnificent, and capable
+of furnishing timber for generations, the soil was hard, stony and
+forbidding, and Stanley despaired of ever getting a garden of sufficient
+dimensions and fertility to support a garrison. He, however, left a Mr.
+Glave, a young Englishman, in charge, who seemed to think he could force
+nature to promise subsistence and comfort.</p>
+
+<p>On September 22d Stanley started for Usindi, having on board Miyongo, of
+that place, and his shipwrecked crew. On their safe arrival, there was no
+show of gratitude for the favor done, but blood-brotherhood was made with
+Miyongo. This provoked the jealousy of the senior chief, Iuka, a dirty
+old fellow, of wicked mien, whose grievance seemed to be that Miyongo
+was too
+popular<!--069.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">66</a></span>
+in the community. A short palaver reconciled him to the
+situation, and Stanley departed with the assurance that Usindi might be
+counted on as a safe stopping-place in the future. Miyongo favored him
+with a guide who was well acquainted with the upper waters of the Congo.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 570px;">
+<img src="images/i_065.jpg" width="570" height="330"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A FUNERAL DANCE.</span>
+<a href="images/i_065x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>Irebu was now passed, and then the mouth of the Bauil, whose people are
+a piratical crew, dreaded by all their neighbors. By September 29th the
+flotilla was at Equator Station again, after an absence of one hundred
+days. What a transformation! The jungle and scrub had disappeared, and in
+their stead was a solid clay house, roomy, rain-proof and bullet-proof,
+well lighted and furnished. Around it were the neat clay huts of the
+colored carriers and soldiers, each the centre of a garden where grew
+corn, sugar-cane, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, cucumbers, etc. Then there
+was a grand garden, full of onions, radishes, carrots, beans, peas,
+beets, lettuce, potatoes and cabbages, and also a servants’ hall,
+goat-houses, fowl-houses and all the et-ceteras of an African plantation.
+It was Stanley’s ideal of a Congo station, and sight of it gave him
+greater heart for his enterprise than any thing he had yet seen. The
+native chief, Ikeng&eacute;, was at first disposed to be troublesome, but was
+soon appeased. On October 11th Stanley congratulated himself that he had
+passed so much of the river limit, leaving peace behind him with all the
+nations, and stations abounding in means of support, if they exerted
+themselves in the right direction.</p>
+
+<p>Equator Station is 757 miles from the Atlantic Ocean and 412 miles above
+Leopoldville, on Stanley Pool. Stanley’s initial work was really done
+here, but in response to earnest wishes from Brussels, he continued it
+in the same spirit and for the same purpose for 600 miles further, with
+a view of making a permanent station at Stanley Falls. With 68 colored
+men and 5 Europeans on board, and with his steamers well freighted with
+necessaries, he left Equator Station on October 16th. The first place of
+moment passed was at Uranga, near the confluence of the Lulunga with the
+Congo. The country around is flat, densely wooded, and the villages close
+together. The Uranga people were anxious for a landing and palaver, but
+the steamers pushed on to Bolombo, where a famine prevailed, and where
+the natives were peaceable and anxious to make blood-brotherhood.</p>
+
+<p><!--070.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">67</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 570px;">
+<img src="images/i_067.jpg" width="570" height="281"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">STANLEY’S FIGHT WITH THE BENGALA IN 1877.</span>
+<a href="images/i_067x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--071.png--><span class="pagenum">68</span></p>
+
+<p>Above Bolombo the steamers were met by a fleet of canoes, whose occupants
+bore the news that the Bengala were anxious for a stop and palaver. These
+were the terrible fighters who harassed Stanley so sorely on his descent
+of the Congo in 1877. He had heard further down the river that they had
+threatened to dispute every inch of water with the white man if ever he
+came that way again. But he had also heard from Mangombo, of Irebu, that
+the lesson they had learned was so severe that all the white men would
+have to do would be to shake a stick at them. Still Stanley approached
+anxiously. The Bengala villages stretch for miles along the Congo. He
+did not stop his steamers, which were soon surrounded by hundreds of
+canoes, but kept slowly moving past the countless villages for fully
+five hours. The canoe-men seemed impelled wholly by curiosity, and no
+sign of hostility appeared. The guide held frequent talks with the
+natives, none of which evoked other than friendly replies. They are a
+tall, broad-shouldered, graceful people, shading off from a dark bronze
+to a light complexion. The steamers came to a halt for the night at an
+island, two hours’ sail from the upper end of the villages, and 500 yards
+from the shore, and thither the guide came in the evening with a young
+chief, Boleko, who invited a landing the next day. In the morning he
+came with an escort of canoes and took Stanley to his village, through
+the identical channel whence had issued the hostile canoes in 1877. Here
+trading was carried on briskly and satisfactorily, till a message came
+from old Mata Bwyki to the effect that he regarded it as an insult on the
+part of a boy like Boleko to be extending the tribal honors in that way.
+The only way out of this was for the steamers to drop back two miles and
+spend a day opposite the village of the old chief&mdash;Lord-of-many-guns. Old
+Mata was found to be a Herculean fellow, nearly eighty years old, and
+walking with a staff that resembled a small mast. By his side appeared
+seven sons, all fine-looking fellows, but the gray shock of the old man
+towered above them all when he straightened himself up. Around them was a
+throng which numbered thousands. The assembly place and place of welcome
+was laid with grass mats. Stanley and his men marched into it, ogled
+on every side, and not knowing whether the end would be peace or war.
+The guide presented them with a speech which described
+Stanley’s<!--072.png--><span class="pagenum">69</span>
+work
+and objects&mdash;all he had done below them on the river, the advantages
+it would be to treat and trade with him, winding up with an intimation
+that it might be dangerous, or at least useless, to prove unfriendly,
+for his steamers were loaded with guns and ammunition sufficient for the
+extermination of the entire people. The result was a treaty, sealed with
+blood-brotherhood, and a promise on the part of Stanley to return at no
+distant day and establish a permanent station among the Bengala. This
+village was Iboko.</p>
+
+<p>The Congo here is literally filled with islands which render a passage
+from one shore to the other almost impossible. These islands are all
+richly verdure-clad and present a scene of rare loveliness, draped in a
+vegetable life that finds a parallel no where else in nature. It took the
+steamers thirteen hours to work their way across to the left, or Mutembo
+side. But Mutembo was deserted. The steamers made Mkatakura, through
+channels bordered with splendid copal forests, whose tops were covered
+with orchilla&mdash;fortunes for whole civilized nations, if possessed and
+utilized. Mkatakura was also deserted. Where were these people? Their
+places had been populous and hostile in 1877. Had they fallen a prey to
+stronger tribes? Alas! such must have been their fate in a country where
+wars never end, and where provocations are the slightest.</p>
+
+<p>Many deserted settlements were now passed, when Mpa, ruled by Iunga,
+was reached, 744 miles from Leopoldville. The people were peaceful and
+disposed to make all necessary concessions. The next day brought them to
+Nganza, ruled by old Rubanga, who had received Stanley with cordiality
+in 1877. The people were exceedingly anxious to trade, and offered their
+wares, especially their ivory, of which they had plenty, at ridiculously
+low figures. The people are known as the Langa-langa&mdash;the upper
+country&mdash;and they go almost entirely naked. Their bodies are cross-marked
+and tattooed. The country is regarded as a paradise for ivory traders,
+owing to the ignorance of the natives as to the real commercial value of
+the article. Here is the turning-point in African currency. The cloth
+and brass-rods of the Atlantic coast no longer hold good, but the Canton
+bead and the cowry of Ujiji are the measure of exchange. Langa-langa
+is therefore the commercial water-shed which divides the Atlantic and
+Pacific influence.</p>
+
+<p><!--073.png--><span class="pagenum">70</span></p>
+
+<p>On November 4th Ikassa was passed, whose people fled on the approach of
+the steamers. It was the same at Yakongo. Then came a series of deserted
+villages. Presently appeared the newly-settled towns of Ndobo and Ibunda,
+with their wattled huts. Bumba came next, with whose chief, Myombi,
+blood-brotherhood was made amid a throng of curious sight-seers. It was
+the fiftieth time Stanley’s arm had been punctured for treaty purposes
+since he entered upon his journey. There was little opportunity for
+trading here owing to the curiosity of the people over the steamers. They
+could hardly be persuaded that the dreaded Ibanza&mdash;devil&mdash;did not live
+down in the boats. It must be he who required so much wood for food and
+gave such groans. If not, what was it that lived in that great iron drum
+and made those wheels spin round so rapidly? In this mood they forgot the
+art of exchange so natural with African natives. Their curiosity was such
+that the crowds about and upon the steamers became not only a drawback
+to exchange, but to work. At length one of the cabin-boys tried the
+effect of a practical joke. He opened the cabin door and pushed forward
+the form of a splendid Bengal tiger, as Ibanza, which was creating all
+the noise and trouble in the boat. The frightened natives shrieked and
+ran at glance of the terrible figure, and the river bank was cleared in
+a moment. Yells of laughter followed them from the boat’s crew. Being
+assured by this that nothing harmful was intended, they began to cluster
+back, and really joined heartily in the merriment, as they saw that the
+source of their terror was only a tiger skin hurriedly stuffed for the
+purpose of giving them a scare. Trade was more active after that, and
+provisions were plenty.</p>
+
+<p>Above Bomba the steamers neared the equally populous town of Yambinga.
+The chief was Mukuga, who wore an antelope-skin cap adorned with cock’s
+feathers, a broad shoulder-belt with leopard-skin attachment, and
+strings of tags, tassels and fetish mysteries. He was a timid chief,
+notwithstanding his gaudy apparel, and quite willing to make blood
+brotherhood. All of these later villages were plentifully supplied with
+war-canoes, the count being 556 at Lower and Upper Yambinga, and 400 at
+Buruba.</p>
+
+<p>Above Yambinga the flotilla got lost in an affluent of the Congo and
+had to put back to the main stream. The stream was
+supposed<!--074.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">71</a></span>
+to be the
+Itimbiri. For many days both shores of the Congo had not appeared at
+once. But on the 12th both sides could be seen, and on the right was a
+wide plain once inhabited by the Yalulima, a tribe of artisans skilled in
+the manufacture of iron, including swords, spears, bells and fetishes of
+various devices. On an island above dwelt the Yambungu, who were disposed
+to trade and who brought fine sweet-potatoes, fowls, eggs, and a species
+of sheep with broad, flat tails.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 340px;">
+<img src="images/i_071.jpg" width="340" height="356"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AFRICAN BLACKSMITHS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The districts were now very populous, and the affluents frequent and
+very complicated as to name and direction of flow. The Basaka, Bahamba
+and Baru villages were passed without a stop. At all of these there were
+canoe demonstrations, but whether for hostile purpose or not was not
+inquired after. The flotilla was now nearing the great Congo affluent,
+the Aruwimi, out of whose mouth issued the
+enormous<!--075.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">72</a></span>
+canoe-fleet which so
+nearly annihilated Stanley in 1877. He gave orders to be on the alert,
+but to resort to hostilities only when all hope of self-preservation
+otherwise had failed. Scarcely had these orders passed when a stream of
+long, splendid-looking war-canoes, filled with armed men, dashed out from
+behind an island, and began to reconnoitre the steamers. They pushed over
+to the right bank, and kept an upward course, without show of resistance
+and at a safe distance. The steamers plunged ahead, and soon the mouth of
+the Aruwimi opened its spacious jaws to receive them. High on the bank
+appeared the town of Mokulu, whose Basoko inmates had fought the battle
+with Stanley years before. He knew their disposition then, but what was
+it now? Was the meeting to be one of war or friendship?</p>
+
+<p>The Congo has a majestic flow where it receives its great tributary,
+the Aruwimi. Rounding a point, the steamers entered the affluent, to
+find the villagers in force, dressed in war-paint, armed with spear and
+shield, beating their war-drums, and disporting themselves fantastically
+on the banks. The canoes of observation were speedily joined by others.
+The three steamers were put across to a clearing on the divide between
+the Congo and Aruwimi, and two of them brought to anchor. The <i>Eu Avant</i>
+was then steamed up the Aruwimi past Mokulu. Then her head was turned
+down stream, and the guide was stationed on the cabin to proclaim the
+words of peace and friendship as the steamer slowly returned. The drums
+on shore ceased to beat. The battle-horns were hushed. The leaping forms
+were still. The guide was eloquent in his speech and dramatic in his
+action. He had the ear of all Mokulu. At length a response came that
+if all the steamers anchored together, the Basoko would soon come as
+friends. The canoes hovered about, but could not be persuaded to come
+within 250 yards. Hours elapsed before they mustered up sufficient
+courage to approach the shore within hailing distance of the camps at
+the anchorage. Thither the guide and three companions went, and the
+ceremony of blood-brotherhood was performed. The town of Mokulu heard the
+shouts of satisfaction at this result, and a response came in the shape
+of drum-beats and horn-toots. Intercourse with the fierce Basoko was a
+possibility.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 369px;">
+<img src="images/i_073.jpg" width="369" height="645"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AFRICAN HEADDRESSES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>These Basokos received Stanley’s guide, Yumbila, first and
+loaded<!--077.png--><span class="pagenum">74</span>
+him
+with presents. They then told him of Stanley’s former approach and
+battle, also of a second visitation far worse than Stanley’s, which
+must have been one by an Arab gang of slave-stealers, judging from its
+barbarity. They were averse to a journey up the Aruwimi, though willing
+that the expedition should proceed up the Congo. It was impossible to get
+information from them respecting their river. They proved to be willing
+traders, and possessed products in abundance. Their spears, knives,
+paddles and shields showed remarkable workmanship, being delicately
+polished, and carved with likenesses of lizards, crocodiles, canoes, fish
+and buffaloes. Their headdresses were of fine palm materials, decorated,
+and a knit haversack formed a shoulder-piece for each man. Physically
+they are a splendid people, industrious after their style, fond of
+fishing, and not given to that ignorant, childish curiosity so common
+among other tribes. They are adepts at canoe construction, and some of
+their vessels require a hundred stout warriors to propel them in a fight.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding opposition, Stanley determined to explore the Aruwimi,
+which is 1,600 yards wide at its mouth, and narrows to 900 yards above
+Mokula. He found in succession the Umaneh, the Basongo, the Isombo, all
+populous, timid, and friendly. After passing Yambua and Irungu, he came
+to the quite populous metropolis of Yambumba, on a bluff 40 feet high,
+containing 8,000 people living in steeply conical huts, embowered by
+bombax, palms, banana-trees and fig-trees. The puffing of the steamers
+put the whole town to flight. Further on came the rapids of the river and
+the Yambuya people and town. These shrewd people declined to trade on
+the plea of poverty, and even refused to give the correct name of their
+village. Their appearance belied their assertions. Stanley found the
+rapids of the Aruwimi a bar to steam navigation. They are 96 miles from
+the mouth of the river, which runs nearly westward thus far. It was this
+brief exploration of the river which determined him to use it as a route
+to Albert Nyanza on his search for Emin Pasha. Should it keep its course
+and continue its volume, it could not but find a source far to the east
+in the direction of the lake, and very near to its shores. As one of the
+fatalities which overhang explorers, Stanley mistook it for the Welle,
+described by Schweinfurth, just as Livingstone mistook the Lualaba for
+the Nile.</p>
+
+<p><!--078.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">75</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This Welle, or Wellemakua, river about which Stanley indulges in
+surmises, is the celebrated river brought into notice by Schweinfurth’s
+discoveries, and over which a geographical controversy raged for
+seventeen years. The question was whether it was the Shari river, which
+emptied into Lake Tchad, or whether its mysterious outlet was further
+south. Stanley’s last journey in search of Emin Pasha pretty definitely
+settled the controversy by ascertaining that the Welle is the upper
+course of the Mobangi, a tributary of the Congo.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 298px;">
+<img src="images/i_075.jpg" width="298" height="136"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ORNAMENTED SMOKING-PIPE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>And while speaking of Schweinfurth, we must use him as authority to
+settle any misapprehension likely to arise respecting the nature of the
+dwarfs which Stanley encountered on the waters of the Upper Aruwimi. He
+calls them Monbuttus, thereby giving the impression that the tribe is
+one of dwarfs. It was Schweinfurth’s province to set at rest the long
+disputed question of the existence of a dwarf race in Central Africa.
+He proved, once for all, that Herodotus and Aristotle were not dealing
+with fables when they wrote of the pygmies of Central Africa. One day
+he suddenly found himself surrounded by what he conjectured was a crowd
+of impudent boys, who pointed their arrows at him, and whose manner
+betokened intentional disrespect. He soon learned that these hundreds
+of little fellows were veritable dwarfs, and were a part of the army
+of Munza, the great Monbuttu king. These are the now famous Akka, who,
+so far as we know, are the smallest of human beings. It is these same
+Akka who, wandering in the forest a little south of Schweinfurth’s
+route, picked off many a carrier in Stanley’s late expedition, using
+arrows whose points were covered with a deadly poison, and refusing all
+overtures of friendship.</p>
+
+<p><!--079.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">76</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Schweinfurth’s description of the Niam-Niams (Great-Eaters) and of their
+southern neighbors, the Monbuttus, is the best that has yet appeared in
+print. He approached the country through the powerful Dinka tribes on
+the north, whom he found rich in cattle, experts in iron-working and
+highly proficient in the art of pottery ornamentation, especially as to
+their smoking-pipes. Competent authorities agree with his opinion that
+the ornamental designs upon their potteries and iron and copper wares,
+now exhibited in the Berlin Museum of Ethnology, would not discredit
+a European artist, and among these people, so far advanced in some
+respects, Schweinfurth discovered the first evidences of cannibalism
+which is said to prevail, on very doubtful authority, however, in a very
+large part of the Congo Basin. It is a noteworthy fact that, in all his
+travels, Livingstone never saw evidence of this revolting practice except
+on one or two occasions, and in all his voluminous writings he hardly
+refers to the topic. Dr. Junker, however, draws a distinction between the
+Niam-Niam and Monbuttu cannibals which Schweinfurth in his briefer visit
+failed to observe. Junker says the Niam-Niam use human flesh as food only
+because they believe that in this way they acquire the bravery and other
+virtues with which their victims may have been endowed. The Monbuttu, on
+the other hand, make war upon their neighbors for no other purpose than
+to procure human flesh for food, because they delight in it as a part
+of their cuisine. With methodical care they dry the flesh they do not
+immediately use, and add it to their reserve supplies of food.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_077.jpg" width="600" height="385"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NIAM-NIAM HAMLET ON THE DIAMOONOO.</span>
+<a href="images/i_077x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>Schweinfurth’s journey into Niam-Niam was through a prairie land covered
+with the tallest grasses he had yet seen in Africa. The people are given
+to cattle-raising and the chase. They are not of stalwart size, and their
+color is dark-brown rather than black. What they lack in stature they
+make up in athletic qualities. They took a keen interest in showing the
+traveler their sights, and in the evening regaled his camp with music,
+dispensed by a grotesque singer, who accompanied his attenuated voice
+with a local guitar of thin, jingling sound. The drums and horns of the
+Niam-Niams are used only for war purposes. Everything testified to the
+fruitfulness of the soil. Sweet potatoes and yams were piled up in the
+farmsteads,<!--081.png--><span class="pagenum">78</span>
+and circular receptacles of clay for the preservation of
+corn were erected upon posts in the yards. The yards are surrounded by
+hedges of paradise figs; back of these are the plantations of manioc and
+maize, and beyond their fields of eleusine. The women are modest and
+retiring in the presence of white men, and their husbands hold them in
+high respect. The people are great believers in magic. The best shots,
+when they have killed an unusual number of antelopes or buffaloes, are
+credited with having charmed roots in their possession. The Niam-Niam
+country is important as being the water-shed between the Nile and the
+rivers which run westward into the Congo, the
+Welle<!--082.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">79</a></span>
+being the largest,
+which runs nearly parallel with the recently discovered Aruwimi. The
+Niam-Niam are great ivory traders and take copper, cloth, or trinkets
+at a cheap figure for this valuable ware. The southern and western part
+of their country becomes densely wooded and the trees are gigantic.
+Here the shape of the huts change, becoming loftier and neater, the
+yards having posts in them for displaying trophies of war and the chase.
+The characteristics of the Niam-Niam are pronounced and they can be
+identified at once amidst the whole series of African races.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 299px;">
+<img src="images/i_078.jpg" width="299" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NIAM-NIAM MINSTREL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_079.jpg" width="600" height="557"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NIAM-NIAM WARRIORS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Every Niam-Niam soldier carries a lance, trumbash, and dagger, made
+by their own smiths. Wooing is dependent on a payment exacted from
+the suitor by the father of the intended bride.
+When<!--084.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">81</a></span>
+a man resolves
+on matrimony, he applies to the sub-chieftain who helps him to secure
+his wife. In spite of the practice of polygamy, the marriage bond is
+sacred, and unfaithfulness is generally punished with death. The trait
+is paramount for this people to show consistent affection for their
+wives. Schweinfurth doubts the charge of cannibalism brought against this
+people, and thinks their name “Great Eaters” might have given rise to the
+impression that they were “man-eaters.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_080.jpg" width="600" height="346"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">RECEIVING THE BRIDE.</span>
+<a href="images/i_080x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>The festivities that occur in case of marriage are a bridal procession,
+at the head of which the chieftain leads the bride to the home of her
+future husband, accompanied by musicians, minstrels and jesters. A feast
+is given, of which all partake in common, though in general the women
+are accustomed to eat alone in their huts. This marriage celebration,
+with slight variations, is usual with the tribes of Central Africa.
+Livingstone describes one among the Hamees of the Lualaba river, in
+which the bride is borne to the home of her husband on the shoulders of
+her lover or chieftain. The domestic duties of a Niam-Niam wife consist
+mainly in cultivating the homestead, preparing the daily meals, painting
+her husband’s body and dressing his hair. Children require very little
+care in this genial climate, being carried about in a band or scarf till
+old enough to walk, and then left to run about with very little clothing
+on.</p>
+
+<p>They are lovers of music, as are their neighbors, especially the Bongo
+people, who possess a variety of quaint instruments capable of producing
+fairly tuneful concerts. Their language is an up-shoot of the great root
+which is the original of every native tongue in Africa north of the
+Equator. They always consult auguries before going to war. In grief for
+the dead they shave their heads. A corpse is adorned for burial in dyed
+skins and feathers. They bury the dead with scrupulous regard to the
+points of the compass, the men facing the east and the women the west.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley now steamed back to the Congo, and once more breasted its yellow
+flood. He was now in the true heart of Africa, 1,266 miles from the sea
+and 921 from Leopoldville, and upon a majestic flood capable of carrying
+a dozen rivers like the Aruwimi. It was a region of deep, impenetrable
+forests, fertile soil, and few
+villages,<!--085.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">82</a></span>
+for the fierce Bahunga seemed
+to have terrorized and devastated all the shores. The river abounds in
+large, fertile islands, the homes of fishermen and stalwart canoemen,
+who carry their products to clearings on the shores, and there exchange
+them for the inland products. This makes the shore clearings kind of
+market-places&mdash;sometimes peopled and sometimes deserted.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_082.jpg" width="600" height="489"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A BONGO CONCERT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the distance a fleet of canoes is sighted, bearing down on the
+steamers. Are they the hostile Bahunga? The <i>En Avant</i> is sent forward on
+a reconnoissance, and soon makes out the fleet to consist of a thousand
+canoes, extending a mile and a half in length. Five men to a canoe gave
+a force of 5,000 men, an army of sufficient size to overwhelm a hundred
+such tiny steamers as composed the Stanley flotilla. A storm arose,
+accompanied by vivid lightning and heavy thunder shocks. The elements
+cleared the river of all fragile barks and left the steamers to their
+course.</p>
+
+<p>The old town of Mawemb&eacute; came into view. It was not such as Stanley
+had mapped it, but a burned and nearly deserted spot.
+The<!--086.png--><span class="pagenum">83</span>
+Arab slave
+merchant had evidently penetrated thus far, and these ashes were the
+marks of his cruelty. Another town, higher up, and entirely in ashes,
+proved the sad conjecture to be true, for before it sat at least 200
+woe-begone natives, too abject in their desolation to even affect
+curiosity at the approaching steamers. On being hailed, they told the
+pitiful tale of how a strange people, like those in the steamers, and
+wearing white clothes, had come upon them in the night, slaughtered their
+people, and carried off their women and children. The fleet of canoes,
+seen among the islands below, contained their own people, gathered for
+protection, forced to live on the islands in the day-time and to go
+ashore at night for food. All this had happened but eight days before,
+and the marauders had retreated up the river in the direction of Stanley
+Falls.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles above, the charred stakes, upright canoes, poles of huts,
+scorched banana groves and prostrate palms indicated the ruins of the
+site of Yavunga, the twelfth devastated town and eighth community passed
+since leaving the mouth of the Aruwimi. Opposite Yavunga were the Yaporo,
+a populous tribe, but now stricken by fire, sword and famine as were
+their brothers. These had charged on Stanley six years before, but they
+were now in no mood to dispute his way.</p>
+
+<p>Floating by is an object which attracts attention. A boat-hook is thrown
+over, and to it clings the forms of two women bound together by a cord.
+The ghastly objects are raised, and a brief inspection shows that they
+could not have been drowned more than twelve hours before. The steamers
+push on, round a point, and in the distance appear white objects. A
+glass is brought to bear, and they prove to be the tents of the Arab
+thieves. They are from Nyangw&eacute;, above the Falls, the capital of Tippoo
+Tib’s empire, unholy conquest from the Manyuema people, founded in flame,
+murder and kidnapping. The camp was palisaded and the banks were lined
+with canoes, evidence that the marauders had managed somehow to pass the
+Falls in force. The first impulse of Stanley was to attempt a rescue and
+wreak a deserved vengeance on these miscreants. But on second thought,
+his was a mission of peace, and he was without authority to administer
+justice. He represented no constituted government, but was on a mission
+to found a government. To play
+the<!--087.png--><span class="pagenum">84</span>
+<i>rol&eacute;</i> of judge or executioner in
+such an emergency might be to defeat all his plans and forever leave
+these wretches without a strong arm to cling to in time of future need.
+Had he come upon an actual scene of strife and burning, it would have
+been his to aid the weaker party, but now the law of might must have its
+way, till a sturdier justice than was at his disposal could come to tread
+in majesty along those dark forest aisles.</p>
+
+<p>And now what a meeting and greeting there was! The steamers signalled the
+arrival of strangers. A canoe put out from the shore and hailed in the
+language of the Eastern coast. Both sides understood that the meeting was
+one of peace. The steamers made for shore below the tents, and a night
+encampment was formed. Soon Stanley’s Zanzibaris were shaking hands with
+the Manyuema slaves of Abed bin Salim, who constituted the band that had
+been ravaging the country to obtain slaves and ivory. They had been out
+for sixteen months, and for eleven months had been raiding the Congo.
+The extent of country they had plundered was larger than Ireland, and
+contained a population of 1,000,000 souls. They numbered 300 men, armed
+with shot-guns and rifles, and their retinue of domestic slaves and women
+doubled their force. Their camp, even then, was on the ruins of the town
+of Yangambi, which had fallen before their torches, and many of whose
+people were prisoners on the spot where they were born.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley took a view of the stockade in which they had confined their
+human booty. This is the horrible story as he writes it:</p>
+
+<p>“The first general impressions are that the camp is much too densely
+peopled for comfort. There are rows upon rows of dark nakedness, relieved
+here and there by the white dresses of the captors. There are lines or
+groups of naked forms upright, standing or moving about listlessly;
+naked bodies are stretched under the sheds in all positions; naked legs
+innumerable are seen in the perspective of prostrate sleepers; there
+are countless naked children, many were infants, forms of boyhood and
+girlhood, and occasionally a drove of absolutely naked old women, bending
+under a basket of fuel, or cassava tubers, or bananas, who are driven
+through the moving groups by two or three musketeers. In paying more
+attention to details, I observe that mostly all are fettered; youths
+with
+iron<!--088.png--><span class="pagenum">85</span>
+rings around their necks, through which a chain like one of
+our boat-anchor chains is rove, securing the captives by twenties. The
+children over ten are secured by three copper rings, each ringed leg
+brought together by the central ring, which accounts for the apparent
+listlessness of movement I observed on first coming in presence of the
+curious scene. The mothers are secured by shorter chains, around whom
+their respective progeny of infants are grouped, hiding the cruel iron
+links that fall in loops or festoons over mamma’s breasts. There is not
+one adult man-captive amongst them.</p>
+
+<p>“Besides the shaded ground strewn over so thickly by the prostrate and
+upright bodies of captives, the relics of the many raids lie scattered
+or heaped up in profusion everywhere, and there is scarcely a square
+foot of ground not littered with something, such as drums, spears,
+swords, assegais, arrows, bows, knives, iron ware of native make of
+every pattern, paddles innumerable, scoops and balers, wooden troughs,
+ivory horns, whistles, buffalo and antelope horns, ivory pestles, wooden
+idols, beads of wood, berries, scraps of fetishism, sorcerers’ wardrobes,
+gourds of all sizes, nets, from the lengthy seine to the small hand-net;
+baskets, hampers, shields as large as doors (of wood or of plaited
+rattan), crockery, large pots to hold eight gallons, down to the child’s
+basin; wooden mugs, basins, and mallets; grass cloth in shreds, tatters
+and pieces; broken canoes, and others half-excavated; native adzes,
+hatchets, hammers, iron rods, etc., etc. All these littering the ground,
+or in stacks and heaps, with piles of banana and cassava peelings, flour
+of cassava, and sliced tubers drying, make up a number of untidy pictures
+and details, through all of which, however, prominently gleam the eyes of
+the captives in a state of utter and supreme wretchedness.</p>
+
+<p>“Little perhaps as my face betrayed my feelings, other pictures would
+crowd upon the imagination; and after realizing the extent and depth
+of the misery presented to me, I walked about as in a kind of dream,
+wherein I saw through the darkness of the night the stealthy forms of the
+murderers creeping towards the doomed town, its inmates all asleep, and
+no sounds issuing from the gloom but the drowsy hum of chirping cicadas
+or distant frogs&mdash;when suddenly flash the light of brandished torches;
+the sleeping town is involved in flames, while volleys of musketry lay
+low the frightened
+and<!--089.png--><span class="pagenum">86</span>
+astonished people, sending many through a short
+minute of agony to that soundless sleep from which there will be no
+waking. I wished to be alone somewhere where I could reflect upon the
+doom which has overtaken Bandu, Yomburri, Yangambi, Yaporo, Yakusu,
+Ukanga, Yakonda, Ituka, Yaryembi, Yaruche, populous Isangi, and probably
+thirty scores of other villages and towns.</p>
+
+<p>“The slave-traders admit they have only 2,300 captives in this fold,
+yet they have raided through the length and breadth of a country larger
+than Ireland, bearing fire and spreading carnage with lead and iron.
+Both banks of the river show that 118 villages and 43 districts have
+been devastated, out of which is only educed this scant profit of 2,300
+females and children, and about 2,000 tusks of ivory! The spears, swords,
+bows, and the quivers of arrows show that many adults have fallen. Given
+that these 118 villages were peopled only by 1,000 each, we have only a
+profit of two per cent.; and by the time all these captives have been
+subjected to the accidents of the river voyage to Kirundu and Nyangw&eacute;, of
+camp-life and its harsh miseries, to the havoc of small-pox and the pests
+which miseries breed, there will only remain a scant one per cent. upon
+the bloody venture.</p>
+
+<p>“They tell me, however, that the convoys already arrived at Nyangw&eacute; with
+slaves captured in the interior have been as great as their present band.
+Five expeditions have come and gone with their booty of ivory and slaves,
+and these five expeditions have now completely weeded the large territory
+described above. If each expedition has been as successful as this, the
+slave-traders have been enabled to send 5,000 women and children safe to
+Nyangw&eacute;, Kirundu and Vibondo, above the Stanley Falls. Thus 5,000 out
+of an assumed million will be at the rate of a half per cent., or five
+slaves out of 1,000 people.</p>
+
+<p>“This is poor profit out of such large waste of life, for originally we
+assume the slaves to have mustered about 10,000 in number. To obtain the
+2,300 slaves out of the 118 villages they must have shot a round number
+of 2,500 people, while 1,300 more died by the wayside, through scant
+provisions and the intensity of their hopeless wretchedness. How many are
+wounded and die in the forest or droop to death through an overwhelming
+sense of their
+calamities,<!--090.png--><span class="pagenum">87</span>
+we do not know; but if the above figures are
+trustworthy, then the outcome from the territory with its million of
+souls is 5,000 slaves obtained at the cruel expense of 33,000 lives! And
+such slaves! They are females, or, young children who cannot run away,
+or who with youthful indifference, will soon forget the terrors of their
+capture! Yet each of the very smallest infants has cost the life of a
+father and perhaps his three stout brothers and three grown-up daughters.
+An entire family of six souls would have been done to death to obtain
+that small, feeble, useless child!</p>
+
+<p>“These are my thoughts as I look upon the horrible scene. Every second
+during which I regard them the clink of fetters and chains strikes upon
+my ears. My eyes catch sight of that continual lifting of the hand to
+ease the neck in the collar, or as it displays a manacle exposed through
+a muscle being irritated by its weight or want of fitness. My nerves are
+offended with the rancid effluvium of the unwashed herds within this
+human kennel. The smell of other abominations annoys me in that vitiated
+atmosphere. For how could poor people, bound and riveted together by
+twenties, do otherwise than wallow in filth? Only the old women are taken
+out to forage. They dig out the cassava tuber, and search for the banana,
+while the guard, with musket ready, keenly watches for the coming of the
+vengeful native. Not much food can be procured in this manner, and what
+is obtained is flung down in a heap before each gang, to at once cause
+an unseemly scramble. Many of these poor things have been already months
+fettered in this manner, and their bones stand out in bold relief in the
+attenuated skin, which hangs down in thin wrinkles and puckers. And yet
+who can withstand the feeling of pity so powerfully pleaded for by those
+large eyes and sunken cheeks?</p>
+
+<p>“What was the cause of all this vast sacrifice of human life&mdash;of all
+this unspeakable misery? Nothing but the indulgence of an old Arab’s
+‘wolfish, bloody, starved and ravenous instincts.’ He wished to obtain
+slaves to barter away to other Arabs, and having weapons&mdash;guns and
+gunpowder&mdash;enough, he placed them in the hands of three hundred slaves,
+and despatched them to commit murder wholesale, just as an English
+nobleman would put guns in the hands of his guests and permit them to
+slaughter the game upon his estate.
+If<!--091.png--><span class="pagenum">88</span>
+we calculate three quarts of
+blood to each person who fell during the campaign of murder, we find that
+this one Arab caused to be shed 2,850 gallons of human blood, sufficient
+to fill a tank measurement of 460 cubic feet, quite large enough to have
+drowned him and all his kin!”</p>
+
+<p>Nyangw&eacute;, above mentioned, is an important market-town on the Congo,
+some distance above Stanley Falls, and the capital of the undefined
+possessions of which Tippoo Tib holds sway. Livingstone says he has
+seen fully 3,000 people at the Nyanwe market of a clear day, anxious
+to dispose of their fish, fruits, vegetables and fowls. Many of them
+had walked twenty-five miles, bearing their baskets, heavily laden with
+produce, and some had come even further in canoes. On one occasion a riot
+broke out, instigated either by jealousy among the surrounding tribes
+or by the Arab slave-dealers for the purpose of making captures. Three
+burly fellows began to fire their guns into the throng of women, who
+hastily abandoned their wares and dashed for the canoes. The panic was
+so great that the canoes could not be manned and pushed into the river.
+The frantic women, fired into continually from the rear, leaped and
+scrambled over the boats and jumped wildly into the river, preferring the
+chances of a long swim to an island rather than inevitable destruction on
+the shore. Many of the wounded wretches threw up their hands in despair
+ere they reached mid-stream, and sank to rise no more. Rescuing canoes
+put out into the water, and many were thus saved; but one poor woman
+refused to be rescued, saying she would take her chances of life in the
+water rather than return to be sold as a slave. The Arabs estimate the
+slaughter that day at 400 souls.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley now fully understood the meaning of all he had heard below of
+the terrible visitations of these banditti&mdash;of the merciless character
+of the Bahunga, which name they had misunderstood, and of the desire of
+the dwellers on the lower waters that he should ascend the Congo, thereby
+hoping that all the whites would destroy one another in the clash which
+seemed inevitable. After an exchange of gifts with these cut-throats and
+the loan of an interpreter to speak with the people at the Falls, the
+steamers departed from a scene which nature had made beautiful, but which
+the hand of man
+had<!--093.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">90</a></span>
+stained with crime and blood. The Congo here has
+bluffy, picturesque shores on the one side, and on the other lowlands
+adapted for sugar-cane, cotton, rice and maize.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_089.jpg" width="600" height="351"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE MASSACRE AT NYANGWE.</span>
+<a href="images/i_089x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>Some critics of Stanley have expressed wonder at his failure to assert
+his usual heroism when made to witness these Arab barbarities while
+ascending the Congo. They think he should have attacked and driven
+off these thieves and murderers, no matter what the result might have
+been to himself and his enterprise. The same, or a similar class of
+critics, think that when he was making his last journey up the Congo
+and the Aruwimi in search of Emin Pasha, he showed entirely too much
+consideration for the Arab marauders, and especially for that cunning and
+depraved official, Tippoo Tib, whom he recognized as governor at Nyangw&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p>Despite what are regarded by some impulsive people as the higher claims
+of humanitarianism, we are perfectly willing to trust to Mr. Stanley’s
+sense of right as modified by the exigencies of a situation about which
+no one else can know as much as himself. That situation was altogether
+new and peculiar on both his ascents of the Congo in behalf of the Congo
+Free State, and in search of Emin Pasha. In the first instance he bore a
+commission from a higher power, the International Commission, whose agent
+he was. He had instructions to do certain things and to leave others
+undone. To provoke hostilities with those he met, to quarrel and fight,
+except in self-preservation, were not only things foreign to his mission,
+as being sure to defeat it, but were expressly forbidden to him. Conquest
+was no part of the new policy of the Congo Free State, but its foundation
+was peace and free concession by all the tribes within its boundaries.
+Time will vindicate his leniency in the midst of such scenes as he was
+forced to witness at the mouth of the Aruwimi and on the Congo above,
+during his first ascent of the river.</p>
+
+<p>And the same will prove true of his second ascent. To be sure, he was on
+a different mission and had greater freedom of action, but he knew well,
+from former experience, the character of the peoples upon the two great
+rivers near their jurisdiction. And if any events ever proved the wisdom
+of the steps which a man took, those surely did which clustered about
+and composed the eventful, if melancholy, history of Stanley’s “Rear
+Guard” on the Aruwimi. Several
+correspondents,<!--094.png--><span class="pagenum">91</span>
+some of whom accompanied
+Stanley on his two up-river journeys, and others who have been over the
+ground, have written fully of the Aruwimi situation, and their views are
+valuable, though space forbids more than a condensation of them here.</p>
+
+<p>A fatal river, say they all, was the Aruwimi for Stanley. It was so in
+1877. 1883 served to recall regretful memories of his canoe descent, and
+introduced him to sadder scenes than he had ever occasioned or witnessed.
+The details of the deserted and blackened camp of his “Rear Guard” on
+the Emin Pasha Relief Expedition will prove to be more tragic than any
+which went before. It was close to the confluence of the Aruwimi with the
+Congo, as narrated elsewhere in this volume, that Stanly was compelled,
+in 1877, to storm a native village; and, as we have just seen, when
+he passed the spot again in 1883, what wonder that the dusky warriors
+reassembled to receive him! Round the bend “where the great affluent
+gaped into view,” the river was thronged with war-canoes, and on the
+banks stood the villages of Basongo and Mokulu, where Stanley’s ancient
+foes resided. In fantastic array appeared long lines of fully armed
+warriors&mdash;a land force supporting the fighting men afloat. How, aided
+by a picturesque and showy interpreter, with a voice as powerful as his
+eloquence, Stanley, on this latter occasion, appeased their warlike ardor
+and made them friends, has just been told in these pages.</p>
+
+<p>The reader will understand, however, from the number of the force
+against him and the ferocious character of the tribes, why Stanley was
+so careful when forming his latest camp on the Aruwimi, to have it well
+stockaded and efficiently sentinelled. The local natives had not only the
+incentive of their previous defeat by Stanley to keep their hostility
+alive, but they had had meanwhile some bitter experiences of the Arab
+raider. They are splendid races of men, the tribes of the Mokulu and the
+Basoko, picturesque in their yellow war-paint, their barbaric shields
+and decorative headdresses. They are skilled workmen. Their paddles are
+beautifully carved, their spears and knives artistic and of dexterous
+shapeliness. They have also broadswords, and in a general way their
+weapons are of wonderful temper and sharpness. Now and then the Arab
+raiders find their work of massacre and plunder a hot business
+among<!--095.png--><span class="pagenum">92</span>
+such natives as these; but the advantage of the rifle is, of course,
+tremendous, and can only have one result. The Arabs do not, however,
+always have it entirely their own way. They leave both dead and wounded
+sometimes in the hands of the enemy, who frequently condemn both to the
+pot, and make merry, no doubt, over their grilled remains.</p>
+
+<p>Among the many hardships of the Aruwimi camp, established by Stanley
+for his “Rear Guard,” on his latest upward trip, and left under Major
+Barttelot, was the uncontrollable character of the Manyema carriers and
+escort. These people have for many years been the slave-hunting allies
+of the Arabs&mdash;their jackals, their cheetahs; and the Stanley camp had
+actually to be spectators of the attack and raiding of a native village,
+opposite their own quarters, on the other side of the river. It was
+towards night when the onslaught began. The sudden sound of the warlike
+drums of the surprised natives came booming across the water, followed by
+the fierce rattle of the Arab musketry. Dark figures and light were soon
+mixed together in the fray. The natives fought bravely&mdash;but they fell
+rapidly before the rifle. Pelted with the deadly hail of shot, they were
+soon vanquished. Then from hut to hut the flames of ruin began to spread,
+and in the lurid light women and children were marched forth to the
+slave-hunter’s stockade&mdash;some to be ransomed next day by the remainder
+of the ivory the natives had successfully hidden; others probably to be
+passed on from hand to hand until they eventually reached a slave-dealing
+market. And all this the officers and comrades of Mr. Stanley had the
+humiliation to witness without daring to interfere&mdash;not from any fear of
+losing their lives in the defence of the weaker&mdash;a death which has been
+courted by thousands of brave men on land and sea&mdash;but for reasons of
+policy. They were not there to protect the natives of the Aruwimi from
+Arab raiders, but to follow Mr. Stanley with the stores necessary for
+the success of his expedition. Nor is it likely that the force under
+Major Barttelot would have obeyed him if he had desired to intervene.
+Mr. Stanley himself more than once in his African experience has had to
+shut his eyes to Arab aggression and cruelty, although his influence
+with Tippoo Tib has no doubt paved the way for the realization of his
+humane ambition in the matter of slavery. From their
+stockade<!--096.png--><span class="pagenum">93</span>
+and on
+board their launch at Yambuya, Barttelot and his comrades could see the
+woefully unequal warfare on the raided village, and there is no need of
+the assurance that their hearts beat high with indignation and a desire
+to take a hand in it. Moreover, these lawless brutalities practiced
+upon the natives made the difficulties of the camp all the greater, not
+only affecting the dangers of the advance, but increasing the perils of
+the way to the Falls, as was experienced by Ward on his travels to and
+fro&mdash;his “aimless journeys” Mr. Stanley has called them, but undertaken
+nevertheless by order of Ward’s superior officer, Major Barttelot.</p>
+
+<p>Whether or not the Arabs of the camp or the Manyuemas had a share in
+the tragedy on the other side of the river is a question perhaps of no
+serious moment; but confessions were made to Ward which rather tend to
+show that the Arabs, while waiting for the expected advance, fulfilled
+other engagements on the river. “I went to Selim’s camp to-day,” writes
+Mr. Ward in one of his private letters, “and they told me that two more
+of their men (Arabs) had been caught and eaten by the natives whose
+village they had raided and burnt some weeks ago.” The same correspondent
+again writes: “This morning some of the raiders came down from up-river
+with news of the defeat of ten of their number, cut to pieces by the
+natives, who sought refuge in their canoes above the rapids.” Selim and
+his men started off in pursuit, and returned at night lamenting that
+they had killed only two of the natives. On the next day he told Ward
+that where his men had fallen he found their fingers tied in strings to
+the scrub of the river-bank, and some cooking-pots containing portions
+of their bones. What a weary time it was waiting, and with only this
+kind of incident to ruffle the monotony of it&mdash;waiting for the promised
+carriers that did not come&mdash;waiting for news of Stanley that only came
+in suggestions of disaster! It is hardly a matter of surprise that the
+camp began to fear the worst. Their own experiences of the broken word
+of Tippoo Tib and the utter unreliability and ferocity of a portion of
+their force might well give a pessimistic tone to their contemplation of
+the awful possibilities of Stanley’s march. Every omen of the Aruwimi
+was unfavorable to success; and they must have been terribly impressed
+by such a scene as that which cast its murderous light upon the river
+not<!--097.png--><span class="pagenum">94</span>
+long previously to the forward march, with the assassination of the
+commander and the eventual dispersion of the rear-guard.</p>
+
+<p>The above refers to Stanley’s Emin Pasha expedition, details of which are
+given further on. But it is introduced here as showing what he had to
+contend with every time he struck the confluence of the two great rivers,
+and how difficult it was for him to pursue any other policy than he did,
+as it is a bewildering spot in nature, and in its human forces, so it is
+in its diplomancy.</p>
+
+<p>One of the writers above mentioned goes on to discuss the question of
+cannibalism whose existence on the Upper Congo, and in other parts
+of Africa, has been asserted by correspondents. He says his own
+description of these practices on the Aruwimi and the Congo are in no
+way connected with the reports which are criticised in Mr. Stanley’s
+letter from Msalala, on Lake Victoria, in August 1889. Mr. Ward in
+none of his letters has ever mentioned or suggested that the Manyuemas
+were cannibals, or in any way justified the extraordinary statement
+of the Rev. William Brooke in the <i>Times</i> to the effect that it was
+common in the Manyuema camp to see “human hands and feet sticking out
+of cooking-pots.” This is evidently a canard. Perhaps it would be well
+for Mr. Brooke to give his authorities, since Mr. Stanley asks who they
+are that have seen these extraordinary sights. The Manyuemas are a
+fierce race; but, personally, Mr. Stanley has found them loyal and true
+to his service, and they are not cannibals, so far as I can learn. The
+instances of cannibalism mentioned in letters from the Aruwimi camp refer
+to the natives of the district outside the camp, and against whom the
+camp was fortified. But if Mr. Brooke has been misled, so also has Mr.
+Stanley in regard to the report he seems to have found in his bundles
+of newspaper cuttings to the effect that an execution of a woman was
+delayed by Jameson or Barttelot in order that a photographer might make
+ready his apparatus for taking a negative of the incident. This gruesome
+anecdote does not belong to Africa at all; it comes from a different part
+of the world altogether; was discussed in Parliament as an allegation
+made against an English Consul; and turned out to be either untrue or a
+gross exaggeration. When Mr. Stanley has learnt all that was said and
+conjectured about his doings in the long intervals of the silence and
+mystery
+that<!--098.png--><span class="pagenum">95</span>
+enshrouded him he will find less and less material for
+serious criticism in the other packets of press extracts he may yet have
+to unfold: but he need hardly be told that those who knew him and those
+who have trusted him would not, whatever happened, be led into thinking
+for a moment that he would break his promise or neglect his duty.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley’s upward bound steamers now pass several devastated districts
+which in 1877 were peopled by ferocious beings ready with their canoes
+to sweep down upon his descending flotilla. At length the island tribe
+of the Wenya is reached. These are expert fishermen, and had been left
+unharmed by the Arabs,&mdash;and for policy sake too, since their acquaintance
+with Stanley Falls had been turned to practical account. Their knowledge
+of the intricate channels had enabled them to pilot the Arab canoes down
+over the obstructions and return them in the same way, the owners making
+the portage afoot.</p>
+
+<p>Here the steamers were at the foot of Stanley Falls. These Falls consist
+of seven distinct cataracts extending over a distance of fifty-six
+miles. The lower or seventh cataract is simply a rough interruption to
+navigation for a distance of two miles. Above this is a navigable stretch
+of twenty-six miles, when the sixth cataract is reached. This, on the
+left side, is an impassable fall, but on the right is a succession of
+rapids. From the sixth to the fifth cataract is a twenty-two mile stretch
+of navigable water. The fifth, fourth, third, second and first cataracts
+come in quick succession, and within a space of nine miles. They appear
+to be impassable, but the fact that the natives manage to pass the Arab
+canoes up and down them proves that there are channels which are open to
+light craft when dexterously handled.</p>
+
+<p>The width of the Congo at the seventh cataract is 1330 yards, divided
+into several broken channels by islands and rocks. The inhabitants of
+the islands above and below are skillful fishermen belonging to two or
+three different tribes. They obstruct even the swiftest channels with
+poles from which are appended nets for catching fish and these are
+visited daily in their canoes, over waters of clashing swiftness and ever
+threatening peril. Portions of their catch they use for food, the rest
+is converted into smoked food with which they buy women and children
+slaves, canoes and weapons.
+They<!--099.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">96</a></span>
+are impregnably situated as to enemies.
+Their villages are scenes of industry. Long lines of fish-curers may be
+seen spreading fish on the platforms; old men weave nets and sieves;
+able-bodied men are basket makers and implement makers of various
+fantastic designs; the women prepare meal and bread, etc., or make
+crockery; the watermen are skillful canoe builders.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/i_096.jpg" width="450" height="381"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">1: KNIFE-SHEATH. 2: BASKET. 3: WOODEN BOLSTER. 4:
+BEE-HIVE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This was the spot upon which Stanley desired to erect a trading station
+and these were the people with whom he was to negotiate for a possession.
+He had no fears of the result, for it was evident that the Arabs and the
+half-castes of Nyangwe, beyond, would find advantage in a station at
+which they could obtain cloth, guns, knives and all articles of European
+manufacture at a much cheaper rate than from the Eastern coast. A palaver
+was opened with the assembled chiefs, in which Stanley was formally
+received and stated his object. Receptions by African chiefs are always
+very formal. Altogether, they are not uninteresting. Livingstone mentions
+one with King Chitapangwa, in which he was ushered into an
+enormous<!--100.png--><span class="pagenum">97</span>
+hut
+where the dignitary sat before three drummers and ten more men with
+rattles in their hands. The drummers beat fearfully on their drums,
+and the rattlers kept time, two of them advancing and retreating in a
+stooping posture, with their rattles near the ground, as if doing the
+chief obeisance, but still keeping time with the others. After a debate
+of three days duration the chiefs came to terms and ceded sovereignty
+over the islands and adjacent shores, with the right to build and trade.
+The large island of Wan&eacute; Rusari was selected as the site of the station
+and a clearing was made for building. The question of a supply of
+vegetable food was settled by Siwa-Siwa, an inland chief, who promised
+to make the garrison his children and guaranteed them plenty of garden
+products. Binnie, engineer of the <i>Royal</i>, a plucky little Scotchman of
+diminutive stature, was appointed chief of the new Stanley Falls Station,
+and left in full authority. The boat’s crews cleared four acres of ground
+for him, and furnished him with axes, hoes, hammers, nails, flour,
+meats, coffee, tea, sugar, cloths, rods, beads, mugs, pans, and all the
+etceteras of a mid-African equipment. He was given thirty one armed men
+and plenty of ammunition. Then with full instructions as to his duty he
+was left to the care of Providence.</p>
+
+<p>On December 10th the steamers began their return journey, having reached
+the full geographic limit marked out by the Brussels Committee. The
+return was to be signalized by obtaining the protectorship of the
+districts intervening between the stations thus far established on the
+Congo, so that the authority of the new State should be unbroken from
+Vivi to Stanley Falls. But this work, on second thought, could well
+be left to others with more time at their disposal than had Stanley.
+Therefore the steamers, taking advantage of the current, and bearing ten
+selected men of the native tribes about Stanley Falls, each in possession
+of three ivory tusks, made a speedy downward trip.</p>
+
+<p>Tribe after tribe was passed, some of which had not been seen on the
+ascent, because the steamers were constantly seeking out new channels.
+Whenever it was deemed politic, stops were made and treaties entered
+into. All on board suffered much from the river breezes, heightened
+by the velocity of the steamers. These breezes checked perspiration
+too suddenly, and some severe
+prostrations<!--102.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">99</a></span>
+occurred. By Christmas
+the flotilla was back to Iboko, where thieving was so rampant as to
+necessitate the seizure of one of the offenders and his imprisonment in a
+steamer. The chief, Kokoro, came alongside in a canoe to commend Stanley
+for ridding the tribe of a fellow who could bring such disgrace upon it;
+and he was really very earnest in his morality till he looked in upon the
+prisoner and found it was his son. Then there was lamentation and offers
+to buy the boy back. Stanley’s terms were a restitution of the stolen
+articles, and these not being met, he sailed away with the offender,
+promising to return in ten days to insist upon his conditions.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_098.jpg" width="600" height="356"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">RECEPTION BY AN AFRICAN KING.</span>
+<a href="images/i_098x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>The populous districts of Usimbi and Ubengo were passed. At Ukumiri
+the whole population came out to greet the steamers, as it did at
+Bungata and Uranga. As many of these places had not been visited on
+the upward journey, it was manifest that word of the treaties and the
+impression made were being gradually and favorably disseminated by the
+canoe-traders. Equator Station was found in a flourishing condition. It
+was January 1st, 1884, when the steamers began an upward journey again to
+Iboko, in order to keep faith with Kokoro by returning his son. The old
+chief, Mata Bwyki, was indignant at the seizure of one of his subjects,
+but seeing that Stanley had returned and was acquainted with the tribal
+custom that a thief could be held till the stolen goods were restored,
+he fell in with his idea of justice, and went so far as to insist on a
+return of the stolen articles, or else the imprisonment which Stanley had
+inflicted. This attitude resulted in a restoration of the property and
+the temporary shame of the culprits.</p>
+
+<p>Again the steamers arrived at Equator Station, where the commandant had a
+harrowing tale to tell of how the neighboring Bakuti had lost their chief
+and had come to the station to buy the soldier laborers to the extent of
+fifty, thinking they were slaves, in order that they might sacrifice them
+over the dead chieftain’s grave. It is needless to say that they were
+driven out of the station and given to understand that rites so horrid
+were not sanctioned by civilized people. But they succeeded in getting
+fourteen slaves elsewhere, and had them ready for execution on the day
+of burial. Some of the garrison went out to witness the cruel rite. They
+found the doomed men
+kneeling,<!--103.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">100</a></span>
+with their arms bound behind them. Near
+by was a tree with a rope dangling from it. One of the captives was
+selected, and the rope was fastened round his neck. The tree, which had
+been bent down by the weight of several men, was permitted to assume its
+natural position, and in doing so it carried the victim off his feet.
+The executioner approached with a short, sharp falchion, and striking
+at the neck, severed the head from the body. The remaining captives
+were dispatched in similar manner. Their heads were boiled and the skin
+was taken off, in order that the skulls might ornament the poles around
+the grave. The soil saturated with their blood was buried with the dead
+chief, and the bodies were thrown into the Congo. Revolting as it all
+was, there was no preventive except the rifles, and they would have meant
+war.</p>
+
+<p>On January 13th the steamers left Equator Station and soon arrived at
+Usindi, where the guide, Yumbila, was paid and dismissed. The next day
+Lukolela was reached, where some progress at station building had gone
+on, and a healthy condition prevailed. Bolobo was the next station but
+arrival there revealed only a wreck. It had been burned a second time,
+with all the guns, and a terrific explosion of the ammunition. The firing
+was due to the freak of a man delirious with fever, who imagined that a
+conflagration would provide him with a burial-scene far more honorable
+than the butchery of slaves indulged in by native African potentates.
+Stanley had his suspicions of the story, and could with difficulty
+believe that the destruction was not due to some sinister influences
+which pervaded the Bolobo atmosphere.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 395px;">
+<img src="images/i_100.jpg" width="395" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SACRIFICE OF SLAVES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>By January 20th the flotilla was back at Kinshassa, in Stanley
+Pool, where much progress had been made. In two hours they were at
+Leopoldville, after an absence of 146 days and a sail of 3,050 miles.
+Here everything was flourishing. The houses stood in comfortable rows,
+and the gardens were bringing forth vegetables in abundance. The natives
+were peaceable and ready to trade, the magazines were full, and as a
+depot it was adequate for the supply of all the up-river stations.
+Not so, however, with the down river stations. They were confused and
+required attention. Stanley therefore prepared a caravan for Vivi.
+Good-byes were given to the friends at Leopoldville, and the huge
+caravan started on its
+long<!--106.png--><span class="pagenum">101</span>
+journey over hills and prairie stretches,
+through dales and across streams, skirting forests here and piercing
+them there, past happy, peaceful villages, too far from the Congo to
+be annoyed by its ravines. The promising uplands of Ngombe are passed,
+ruled by Lutet&eacute;, he who in 1882 requested the gift of a white man that
+he might have the pleasure of cutting his throat! But Lutet&eacute; has been
+transformed from a ferocious chief into quite a decent citizen. Ngombe
+Station is a peaceable one, and Lutet&eacute; furnishes the servants and
+carriers for it, besides sending his children to the Baptist school. The
+caravan then passes the Bokongo and Iyenzi people, noted for their good
+behaviour. All the land is fertile and the valleys exceedingly rich.
+Manyanga is reached. The station has not advanced, but is confused and
+ruinous, though probably a cool $100,000 has been expended upon it by the
+Association of the Congo.</p>
+
+<p>Again the caravan takes up its march through the Ndunga people and
+thence down into the broad valley of the Lukunga, where Stanley is
+hospitably received by Mr. and Mrs. Ingham of the Livingstone Mission,
+at their pretty little cottage and school, surrounded by a spacious and
+well tended garden. Westward of the Lukunga are plateau lands, like
+the American prairies, covered with tall grass, and capable of raising
+the richest crops of wheat and corn. The plateaus passed, a descent is
+made into the valley of the Kwilu, and then into those of the Luima and
+Lunionzo, where the Station of Banza Manteka is reached, close by which
+is a Livingstone Mission house. The prospect from the hilltops here is a
+grand, embracing sight of nearly a dozen native villages whose dwellers
+are devoted to the cultivation of ground-nuts.</p>
+
+<p>In six hours the caravan is at Isangila, sight of which station filled
+Stanley with grief, so backward had improvement been. Hundreds of bales
+of stock were rotting there through neglect of the commandant to keep
+the thatched roofs of the houses in repair. The country now becomes
+broken and rugged, and the way obstructed with large boulders. All nature
+here is a counterpart of that rough tumultuous channel where thunders
+the Congo in its last furious charges to the sea. It is now five miles
+to Vivi. The height is 1700 feet above the sea. The air is cool and
+delicious. The natives
+are<!--107.png--><span class="pagenum">102</span>
+peaceful and industrious. There is an English
+mission on those highlands, in the midst of peace and plenty.</p>
+
+<p>Once at Vivi, Stanley is again grieved, for the commandants had done
+nothing to make it either ornamental or useful. All is barren, like the
+surrounding hills. Not a road had been cut, not a cottage thatched. The
+gardens were in waste, the fences broken. The twenty-five whites there
+were lazily indifferent to their surroundings, and without any energy
+or vivacity except that inspired by European wine. The native sick
+list was fearfully large and there was a general demand for medicines,
+till Stanley made an inspection and found that they were only feigning
+sickness as an excuse for idleness. Shocked at all this Stanley resolved
+to move the station up and away to the larger plateau. He did so, and
+left it with a reorganized staff and force, writing home, meanwhile, an
+account of his work. The old and new Vivi stations were connected by a
+railroad, and by June 1884, the new station had five comfortable houses,
+surrounded by a freshly planted banana orchard.</p>
+
+<p>On June 6th Stanley left Vivi for Boma, and took passage on the British
+and African steamer <i>Kinsembo</i>, on the 10th, for an inspection of the
+West African coast. The steamer stopped at Landana, a factory town,
+with a French mission peeping out of a banana grove on an elevation.
+It next touched at Black Point to take on produce, and then at Loango
+and Mayumbo. It then entered the Gaboon country, and stopped off at the
+town of that name, which is the seat of government of the French colony.
+At Gaboon are several brick buildings, stores, hotels, a Catholic and
+American Protestant mission, ten factories and a stone pier. It is a neat
+place, and almost picturesque with its hill-dotted houses and tropical
+vegetation.</p>
+
+<p>The steamer then passed the Spanish town of Elobey, on an island of that
+name, off the mouth of the Muni river. Rounding Cape St. Juan, it next
+touched at the celebrated island of Fernando-Po, whose centre is a peak
+10,000 feet high. The country of the Cammaroons now begins&mdash;a people even
+more degraded than those of the Congo. Skirting this country, Duke Town,
+or old Calabar, was reached on June 21st. This is the “Oil river” region
+of Africa and 300 barrels of palm-oil awaited the <i>Kinsembo</i>. Stanley
+took a
+trip<!--108.png--><span class="pagenum">103</span>
+inland to Creek Town, where is a Scottish mission. He was
+struck with the similarity of what he saw to scenes on the Congo&mdash;the
+same palms, density of forest, green verdure, reddish loam, hut
+architecture. Only one thing differed, and that was that the residences
+of the native chiefs were of European manufacture. Palm-oil has brought
+them luxurious homes, modernly furnished. The ivory, oil, rubber, gum,
+camwood powder, orchilla, beeswax, grains and spices would do the same
+for Congo at no distant day.</p>
+
+<p>The steamer next anchored in Bonny river, off the town of Bonny, where
+there is a well-to-do white population and an equally well-to-do native
+population, with many factories and a large traffic. These people seem
+to have solved the difficult problem of African climate, and to have
+dissipated much of the fear which clung to a residence on and about the
+rivers which find their way to the sea in the Bight of Benin. Passing
+New Calabar, anchor is cast off the Benin river, in a roadstead where
+clustered ships from all the principal ports of Europe. The <i>Kinsembo</i> is
+now fully loaded and makes for Quettah and then Sierra Leone. Thence sail
+was set for London. Stanley got off at Plymouth on July 29th, 1884, and
+four days later presented a report of his expedition and his mission to
+the king of Belgium at Ostend.</p>
+
+<p>Some part of the work of founding the Congo Free State had now been done.
+Stanley and his expedition had been instrumental in clearing ground,
+leveling sites, reducing approaches, laying foundations and building
+walls. The Bureau of the Association had contributed means and supplied
+tools and mortar. But windows were now to be placed and roofs put on.
+Then the fabric must be furnished and equipped within. The finishing work
+could only be done through the agency of its royal founder. He took it
+up where Stanley laid it down, and applied to the Governments of Europe
+and America for recognition of what had been done, and for a guarantee
+of such limits as were foreshadowed by the new State. The border lands
+were those of France and Portugal. Treaties, fixing boundaries, were made
+with these countries. Precedents were formed in the case of the Puritan
+Fathers, the New Hampshire Colonists, the British East India Company, the
+Liberian Republic, the Colonists of Borneo, establishing the right of
+individuals to build States
+upon<!--109.png--><span class="pagenum">104</span>
+cessions of territory and surrenders of
+sovereignty by chiefs and rulers who hold as original owners.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley’s present to the Association was a series of treaties duly
+ratified by 450 independent African chiefs, who held land by undisturbed
+possession, ancient usage and divine right. They had not been intimidated
+or coerced, but of their own free will and for valuable considerations
+had transferred their sovereignty and ownership to the Association.
+The time had now come for cementing these grants and cohering these
+sovereignties, so that they should stand forth as a grand entirety and
+prove worthy of the name of solid empire.</p>
+
+<p>And just here occurs one of the most interesting chapters in the founding
+of the Congo Free State. As it was to the Welsh-American Stanley, that
+the initial work of the grand enterprise was due, so it was to his
+country, the United States of America, that that work was preserved and
+its results turned to the account of the world. England, with her usual
+disregard of international sentiment, and in that spirit which implies
+that her <i>ipse dixit</i> is all there is of importance in diplomacy, had
+made a treaty with Portugal, signed February 26th, 1884, recognizing the
+mouth of the Congo as Portuguese territory, and this in the face of the
+fact that the mouth of that great river had been regarded as neutral
+territory, and of the further fact that for half a century England
+herself had peremptorily refused to recognize Portuguese claims to it.</p>
+
+<p>This action on the part of England awakened emphatic protest on the part
+of France and Germany, and commercial men in England denounced it through
+fear that Portuguese restrictions on trade would destroy Congo commerce
+entirely. It remained for the United States to speak. Her Minister to
+Belgium, General H. S. Sanford, had all along been a faithful coadjutor
+of the Committee of the International Association, and he began to call
+attention to the danger of the step just taken by England. He also
+reminded the American people that to their philanthropy was due the Free
+States of Liberia, founded at a cost of $2,500,000, and to which 20,000
+Colored Americans had been sent. He also reminded them that one of their
+citizens had rescued Livingstone and thereby called the attention of the
+world to the Congo basin and Central African enterprise. By
+means<!--110.png--><span class="pagenum">105</span>
+of
+these and other arguments he induced on Congress to examine thoroughly
+the subject of the Congo Free State and Anglo-Portuguese treaty.</p>
+
+<p>The Committee on Foreign relations reported to the Senate as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>“It can scarcely be denied that the native chiefs have the right to make
+the treaties they have made with Stanley, acting as the representative of
+the International Association. The able and exhaustive statements of Sir
+Travis Twiss, the eminent English jurist, and of Prof. Arntz, the no less
+distinguished Belgian publicist, leave no doubt upon the question of the
+legal capacity of the African International Association, in view of the
+law of nations, to accept any powers belonging to these native chiefs and
+governments, which they may choose to delegate or cede to them.</p>
+
+<p>“The practical question to which they give an affirmative answer, for
+reasons which appear to be indisputable, is this: Can independent chiefs
+of several tribes cede to private citizens the whole or part of their
+State, with the sovereign rights which pertain to them, conformably to
+the traditional customs of the country?</p>
+
+<p>“The doctrine advanced in this proposition, and so well sustained by
+these writers, accords with that held by the Government of the United
+States, that the occupants of a country, at the time of its discovery by
+other and more powerful nations, have the right to make the treaties for
+its disposal, and that private persons when associated in such a country
+for self protection, or self government, may treat with the inhabitants
+for any purpose that does not violate the laws of nations.”</p>
+
+<p>After a patient investigation of all the facts bearing upon the Congo
+question, the United States Senate passed a resolution, April 10th,
+1884, authorizing the President to recognize the International African
+Association as a governing power on the Congo River. This recognition by
+the United States was a new birth for the Association, whose existence
+had been menaced by England’s treaty with Portugal. The European powers,
+whose protest had thus far been impotent, now ably seconded the position
+taken by this country, and the result was a re-action in English
+sentiment, which bade fair to secure such modification or interpretation
+of the
+Portuguese<!--111.png--><span class="pagenum">106</span>
+treaty as would secure to the Congo Free State the
+outlet of the Congo River.</p>
+
+<p>A conference of the nations interested in the new State, and the trade
+of the Congo, was called at Berlin, November 15, 1884. The German
+Empire, Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Spain, France, Great Britain, Italy,
+Portugal, Russia, Sweden and Norway, Turkey and the United States, were
+represented. Prince Bismarck formally opened the Conference by declaring
+that it had met to solve three problems.</p>
+
+<p>(1) The free navigation, with freedom of trade on the River Congo.</p>
+
+<p>(2) The free navigation of the River Niger.</p>
+
+<p>(3) The formalities to be observed for valid annexation of territory in
+future on the African continent.</p>
+
+<p>The above propositions opened up a wide discussion. It was wonderful
+to see the development of sentiment respecting the power of the
+International Association and its territorial limits in Africa. England
+could not stand discussion of her rights on the Niger, and the better
+to protect them, or rather to withdraw them from the arena of debate,
+she gave full recognition to the International Association. Germany and
+Austria both recognized the flag of the Association. France treated with
+the Association respecting the boundaries of her possessions on the
+north. Portugal followed with a treaty by which the Association obtained
+the left, or south bank of the Congo from the sea to the Uango-Ango.
+All the other powers present recognized the Association and signed the
+Convention with it.</p>
+
+<p>Now for the first time in history there was a Congo Free State <i>de jure</i>
+and <i>de facto</i>. It had legal recognition and rights, and took its place
+among the empires of the world. Geographically it had bounds, and these
+are they:</p>
+
+<p>A strip of land at the mouth of the Congo, 22 miles long, extending from
+Banana Point to Cabo Lombo.</p>
+
+<p>All of the north or right bank of the Congo as far as the Cataract of
+Ntombo Mataka, three miles above Manyanga Station, with back country
+inland as far as the Chilonga river.</p>
+
+<p>All of the south bank of the Congo to the Uango-Ango rivulet.</p>
+
+<p>From the said rivulet to the latitude of Nokki, thence east
+along<!--112.png--><span class="pagenum">107</span>
+that
+parallel to the Kwa river, thence up the Kwa to S. Lat. 6&deg;, thence up the
+affluent of the Kwa, Lubilash, to the water-shed between the Congo and
+Zambesi, which it follows to Lake Bangweola.</p>
+
+<p>From the eastern side of Bangweola the line runs north to Lake
+Tanganyika, and follows its western shore to the Rusizi affluent, then
+up this affluent to E. long. 30&deg;, as far as the water-shed, between the
+Congo and Nile.</p>
+
+<p>Thence westward to E. long. 17&deg;, and along that meridian to the Likona
+Basin.</p>
+
+<p>The Berlin conference not only created a mighty State and sanctioned its
+powers and boundaries, but it confirmed unto France a noble territory on
+the north of the Congo equal to any in Africa for vegetable production
+and mineral resources, having an Atlantic coast line of 800 miles, giving
+access to eight river basins, with 5,200 miles of navigable water, and a
+total area of 257,000 square miles.</p>
+
+<p>It also settled the boundaries of Portugal on the Atlantic coast, giving
+to her possessions a frontage of 995 miles, and an area larger than
+France, Belgium, Holland and Great Britain combined, rich in pastoral
+lands, oil and rubber forests, minerals and agricultural resources,
+enough to give each one of her people a farm of 33 acres.</p>
+
+<p>The territory embraced in the Congo Free State, and dedicated to free
+commerce and enterprise, is equal to 1,600,000 square miles. The same
+privileges were extended to within one degree of the East Coast of
+Africa, subject to rights of Portugal and Zanzibar. This would make a
+privileged commercial zone in Central Africa of 2,400,000 square miles in
+extent.</p>
+
+<p>While there are at present but few legitimate traders within this vast
+area to be benefited by these liberal endowments of the Congo Free
+State, the wisdom of setting the territory apart and dedicating it to
+international uses is already apparent. The European powers are in hot
+chase after landed booty in Central Africa. England is flying at the
+throat of Portugal, is jealous of France and Germany, is snubbing Italy
+and is ready to rob Turkey. It is surely one of the grandest diplomatic
+achievements to have rescued so
+important<!--113.png--><span class="pagenum">108</span>
+and imposing a portion of
+a continent from the turmoil which has ever characterized, and is now
+manifest in European greed for landed possessions.</p>
+
+<p>If the European powers had been permitted to seize all the coasts of the
+Continent, and the Continent itself, and to levy contributions on trade
+according to their respective wills, they would have forever strangled
+commercial development, except as suited their selfish ends. On the other
+hand the guarantee of the Association that its large and productive
+areas should be free from discrimination and oppression, would naturally
+tempt enterprising spirits to venture inland and win a continent from
+barbarism. The Courts of Law of the Association would be everywhere and
+always open, there would be no charges on commerce except those necessary
+to support the government, the liquor traffic might not be abused, a
+positive prohibition would rest on the slave trade, the missionary,
+without respect to denomination, would have special protection,
+scientific development would be encouraged, to all these, the powers
+present at the Berlin Conference gave a pledge, with these they endowed
+the Congo Free State.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley was one of the most conspicuous figures in this memorable
+Conference. He was not a debater, nor even a participant in the ordinary
+acceptation of the term, but he was questioned and cross-questioned on
+every matter relating to African climatology, geography, anthropology,
+mineralogy, geology, zoology, and resources, and many a point of
+controversy turned on his information or judgment.</p>
+
+<p>The International Association, which has in its keeping the Free Congo
+State, ratified, through its President, Col. Strauch, the General Act of
+the Berlin Conference, and thus made it the Constitution of the new State
+in Central Africa. To the terms of this constitution the new State as
+well as the powers represented at the Conference stand bound as against
+the world.</p>
+
+<p>The Company of the Congo, for laying and operating a railway around the
+Congo cataracts, was formed under French auspices in February 1887,
+and by June, the first and second contingent of engineers had left for
+the Congo. When completed, the staff consisted of one director, twelve
+engineers and one surgeon. A
+number<!--114.png--><span class="pagenum">109</span>
+of Houssas, from the Gold Coast,
+were engaged for the mechanical work, and the whole were divided into
+gangs, each with its special work to do, following each other along the
+route. The work went on speedily, and the final observation was taken at
+Stanley Pool, in November, 1888.</p>
+
+<p>The proposed railway is to extend from a little below Vivi (Matadi), up
+to which large vessels may be taken, past the long series of cataracts
+to Stanley Pool. The total length of the line is to be 275 miles. On
+leaving Matadi it bends away from the Congo to the southeast, and
+keeps at a distance of several miles from the river till it approaches
+Stanley Pool. The first sixteen miles of the route will be attended with
+considerable difficulties, while the remainder of the line will be laid
+under exceptionally easy conditions. It is in the first sixteen miles
+that there will be any serious rock cutting and embankments, and the
+expense of the construction in this part is estimated at $11,548 a mile,
+while those on the remainder of the line will cost much less. In addition
+to this, there will be the cost of erecting aqueducts, building bridges,
+etc., all of which, it is stated, will be much greater in the first few
+miles, than subsequently. On the first few miles, also, there are a few
+steep inclines, but for the rest of the route the inclines are reported
+to be insignificant. There are only three bridges of any size&mdash;across
+the Mkesse, the Mpozo and the Kwilu&mdash;ranging from 250 feet to 340 feet;
+half a dozen others from 130 feet to 190 feet; with a number very much
+smaller. The fact is, the engineering difficulties in the construction of
+the proposed railway are insignificant. One of the chief considerations
+will be the climate. The route is situated within the rainiest region of
+Africa, and unless special precautions are taken the road, especially in
+the first section, will be liable to be swept away. From this point of
+view alone it is very doubtful if a railway suitable for the region could
+be built, so as to last, for less than $5,000,000.</p>
+
+<p>The railway will be built on the narrow gauge system. The locomotives,
+when loaded, will weigh thirty tons, and drag at the rate of eleven miles
+per hour, an average of fifty tons. Thus one train per day each way
+would, if fully loaded, represent a total of 36,000 tons per annum&mdash;far
+in excess of any traffic likely to be available
+for<!--115.png--><span class="pagenum">110</span>
+many years. The
+railway, if built, would tap about 7,000 miles of navigable rivers.</p>
+
+<p>Evidence of the strides forward made by the Congo Free State is just now
+furnished by Mr. Taunt, Commercial Agent of the United States at Boma,
+in his report for 1889 to the Department of State. He says in substance
+that within the last two years the Congo Free State has made a wonderful
+advancement. Here is now found, where for ages has been a jungle,
+inhabited only by wild beasts and wilder men, a well-equipped government.
+It has its full corps of officials, its courts of law, post offices,
+custom stations, a standing army of 1,500 men, well officered and
+drilled, a currency of gold, silver, and copper and all the appliances of
+a well-ordered government.</p>
+
+<p>Boma, the seat of Government of the Congo Free State, is situated upon
+the Congo, about ninety miles from its mouth. Here are the residences of
+the Governor and of the lesser officials, and here are established the
+Courts and the Governmental departments. The army is well distributed
+at different stations along the banks of the river, and does excellent
+service in policing the stream against the incursions of the Arabs.</p>
+
+<p>The port of entry of the Congo Free State, is Banana settlement at the
+mouth of the Congo. Four lines of steamers, British, German, Portuguese,
+and French, make frequent connection between the settlements and European
+ports. A Dutch line also runs a steamer to the Congo in infrequent trips.
+Cable communication is already established between Europe and two points
+easily accessible from the mouth of the Congo, and telegraphic connection
+will doubtless, soon be made with Banana.</p>
+
+<p>All these arrangements are, of course, only auxiliaries to the great
+trading interests already established in the region of the Congo. In
+this trade the merchants of Rotterdam lead, having stations established
+for hundreds of miles both north and south of the river. During the last
+two years they have penetrated even to the Upper Congo and established
+trading stations at Stanley Falls, a point 1,500 miles distant from the
+mouth of the river. This Company employs a large force of white agents,
+and is largely interested in the raising of coffee, tobacco, cocoa, and
+other products of the tropics.</p>
+
+<p><!--116.png--><span class="pagenum">111</span></p>
+
+<p>Holland alone has not been allowed to occupy this rich field. French,
+English, Portuguese, and Belgian capitalists have seen the advantages to
+be derived from this occupation of a new soil, and have not been slow
+to seize their opportunities. The last named, especially, are making
+preparations for the investment of a large amount of capital in this new
+and productive field.</p>
+
+<p>In the Congo Free State, as thus opened to the trade of the world,
+is supplied a market in which American manufacturers should be able
+successfully to compete. There is a great demand for cotton goods,
+canned food, cutlery, lumber, and ready-built frame houses. Manchester
+has already monopolized the trade in cotton goods, which, in the further
+extension of trading posts, is capable of almost indefinite expansion.
+Birmingham and Sheffield supply brass wire, beads and cutlery, and
+England and France now supply the demand for canned foods. It would seem
+that the markets of the United States should supply a portion at least
+of this great demand for manufactured articles. In the items of lumber
+and canned foods surely we should be able to compete successfully with
+Europe, although it would seem probable that the establishment of saw
+mills upon the Congo should soon serve to do away with the demand for the
+first named of these articles.</p>
+
+<p>The one desideratum, without which our manufacturers cannot hope to
+open up a prosperous trade with the Congo Free State, is a direct line
+of steamships from Boma to some American port. Without this, the added
+freights from this country to Europe for transshipment to the Congo
+would, it would seem, be an insurmountable bar to a profitable trade,
+however desirable such trade might be.</p>
+
+<p>As has been already observed, in order to insure from the natives a loyal
+observance of their promises, Stanley made a treaty with each chief along
+the course of the Congo, to the general effect that, in consideration of
+certain quantities of cloth to be paid them monthly, they should abstain
+from acts of aggression and violence against their neighbors. The design
+of these treaties was to insure peace among the tribes themselves. Other
+agreements and treaties were also made, designed to secure such transfers
+of their sovereignty to the International Commission, as would enable it
+to organize the Congo Free State.</p>
+
+<p><!--117.png--><span class="pagenum">112</span></p>
+
+<p>As these forms are novel, we give such of them as will enable a reader to
+understand the preliminary steps toward the formation of this new State.</p>
+
+<div class="center">PRELIMINARY DECLARATION.</div>
+
+<p>We, the undersigned chiefs of Nzungi, agree to recognize the sovereignty
+of the African International Association, and in sign thereof, adopt
+its flag (blue, with a golden star). We declare we shall keep the road
+open and free of all tax and impost on all strangers arriving with the
+recommendation of the agents of the above Association.</p>
+
+<p>All troubles between ourselves and neighbors, or with strangers of any
+nationality, we shall refer to the arbitration of the above Association.</p>
+
+<p>We declare that we have not made any written or oral agreement with any
+person previous to this that would render this agreement null and void.</p>
+
+<p>We declare that from henceforth we and our successors shall abide by
+the decision of the representatives of the Association in all matters
+affecting our welfare or our possessions, and that we shall not enter
+into any agreement with any person without referring all matters to the
+chief of Manyanga, or the chief of L&eacute;opoldville, or act in any manner
+contrary to the tenor or spirit of this agreement.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Witnesses</span>:</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Dualla</span> (his x mark), of Chami, Pard.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Mwamba</span> (his x mark), of Makitu’s.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Keekuru</span> (his x mark), Chief of Nzungi.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Nseka</span> (his x mark), Chief of Banza Mbuba.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Nzako</span> (his x mark), of Banza Mbuba.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Insila Mpaka</span>, (his x mark), of Banza Mbuba.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Isiaki</span> (his x mark), Chief of Banza Mbuba.</p>
+
+<div class="center">FORMS OF A TREATY.</div>
+
+<p>Henry M. Stanley, commanding the Expedition on the Upper Congo, acting in
+the name and on behalf of the “African
+International<!--118.png--><span class="pagenum">113</span>
+Association,” and
+the king and chiefs Ngombi and Mafela, having met together in conference
+at South Manyanga, have, after deliberation, concluded the following
+treaty, viz:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> I.&mdash;The chiefs of Ngombi and Mafela recognize that it
+is highly desirable that the “African International Association” should,
+for the advancement of civilization and trade, be firmly established
+in their country. They therefore now, freely of their own accord, for
+themselves and their heirs and successors forever, do give up to the said
+Association the sovereignty and all sovereign and governing rights to
+all their territories. They also promise to assist the said Association
+in its work of governing and civilizing this country, and to use their
+influence with all the other inhabitants, with whose unanimous approval
+they make this treaty, to secure obedience to all laws made by said
+Association, and assist by labor or otherwise, any works, improvements,
+or expeditions, which the said Association shall cause at any time to be
+carried out in any part of the territories.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Art</span>. II.&mdash;The chief of Ngombi and Mafela promise at all times
+to join their forces with those of the said Association, to resist
+the forcible intrusion or repulse the attacks of foreigners of any
+nationality or color.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Art</span>. III.&mdash;The country thus ceded has about the following
+boundaries, viz: The whole of the Ngombi and Mafela countries, and any
+other tributary to them; and the chiefs of Ngombi and Mafela solemnly
+affirm that all this country belongs absolutely to them; that they can
+freely dispose of it; and that they neither have already, nor will on any
+future occasion, make any treaties, grants or sales of any parts of these
+territories to strangers, without the permission of the said Association.
+All roads and waterways running through this country, the right of
+collecting tolls on the same, and all game, fishing, mining, and forest
+rights, are to be the absolute property of the said Association, together
+with any unoccupied lands as may at any time hereafter be chosen.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Art</span>. IV.&mdash;The “African International Association” agrees to pay
+to the chiefs of Ngombi and Mafela the following articles of merchandise,
+viz: One piece of cloth per month, to each of the undersigned chiefs,
+besides presents of cloth in hand; and the
+said<!--119.png--><span class="pagenum">114</span>
+chiefs hereby
+acknowledge to accept this bounty and monthly subsidy in full settlement
+of all their claims on the said Association.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Art</span>. V.&mdash;The “African International Association” promises:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>1. To take from the natives of this ceded country no occupied or
+cultivated lands, except by mutual agreement.</p>
+
+<p>2. To promote to its utmost the prosperity of the said country.</p>
+
+<p>3. To protect its inhabitants from all oppression or foreign intrusion.</p>
+
+<p>4. It authorizes the chiefs to hoist its flag; to settle all local
+disputes or palavers; and to maintain its authority with the natives.</p>
+
+<p>Agreed to, signed and witnessed, this 1st day of April, 1884.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Henry M. Stanley</span>,</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Witnesses to the signatures</span>:</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">E. Spencer Burns</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">D. Lehrman</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Dualla</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Sonki</span> (his x mark), Senior Chief of Ngombi.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Mamynpa</span> (his x mark), Senior Chief of Mafela.</p>
+
+<div class="center">JOINT AGREEMENT AND TREATY.</div>
+
+<p>We, the undersigned chiefs of the districts placed opposite our names
+below, do hereby solemnly bind ourselves, our heirs and successors for
+the purpose of mutual support and protection, to observe the following
+articles:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> I.&mdash;We agree to unite and combine together, under
+the name and title of the “New Confederacy,”&mdash;that is, our respective
+districts, their homes and villages shall be embraced by one united
+territory, to be henceforth known as the <i>New Confederacy</i>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Art</span>. II.&mdash;We declare that our objects are to unite our forces
+and our means for the common defence of all the districts comprised
+within said territory; to place our forces and our means under such
+organization as we shall deem to be best for the common good of the
+people and the welfare of the Confederacy.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Art</span>. III.&mdash;The New Confederacy may be extended by the admission
+of all such districts adjoining those mentioned before, when their chiefs
+have made application, and expressed their consent to the articles herein
+mentioned.</p>
+
+<p><!--120.png--><span class="pagenum">115</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Art</span>. IV.&mdash;We, the people of the New Confederacy, adopt the blue
+flag with the golden star in the centre for our banner.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Art</span>. V.&mdash;The confederated districts guarantee that the treaties
+made between them shall be respected.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Art</span>. VI.&mdash;The public force of the Confederacy shall be organized
+at the rate of one man out of every two men able to bear arms; of native
+or foreign volunteers.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Art</span>. VII&mdash;The organization, the armament, equipment, subsistence
+of this force, shall be confided to the chief agent in Africa of the
+“Association of the Upper Congo.”</p>
+
+<p>To the above articles, which are the result of various conventions held
+between district and district, and by which we have been enabled to
+understand the common wish, we, sovereign chiefs and others of the Congo
+district hereby append our names, pledging ourselves to adhere to each
+and every article.</p>
+
+<p>[<span class="smcap">Names of Signers.</span>]</p>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<p>The Berlin Conference.</p>
+
+<p>The Berlin Conference which settled the contributions of the Congo Free
+State, and secured for it the recognition of the principal civilized
+nations of the world, commenced its sitting at half past two o’clock, on
+the 26th of February, 1885, under the Presidency of His Highness, Prince
+Bismarck. The Prince opened the closing session Conference by saying:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>“Our Conference, after long and laborious deliberations, has reached the
+end of its work, and I am glad to say that, thanks to your efforts and
+to that spirit of conciliation which had presided over our proceedings,
+a complete accord has been come to on every point of the programme
+submitted to us.</p>
+
+<p>“The resolutions which we are about to sanction formally, secure to
+the trade of all nations free access to the interior of the African
+Continent. The guarantees by which the freedom of trade will be assured
+in the Congo basin, and the whole of the arrangements embodied in the
+rules for the navigation of the Congo and the Niger, are of such a nature
+as to afford the commerce and
+industry<!--121.png--><span class="pagenum">116</span>
+of all nations the most favorable
+conditions for their development and security.</p>
+
+<p>“In another series of regulations you have shown your solicitude for the
+moral and material welfare of the native population, and we may hope
+that those principles, adopted in a spirit of wise moderation, will
+bear fruit, and help familiarize those populations with the benefit of
+civilization.</p>
+
+<p>“The particular conditions under which are placed the vast regions you
+have just opened up to commercial enterprise, have seemed to require
+special guarantee for the preservation of peace and public order. In
+fact, the scourge of war would become particularly disastrous if the
+natives were led to take sides in the disputes between civilized Powers.
+Justly apprehensive of the dangers that such event might have for the
+interest of commerce and civilization, you have sought for the means of
+withdrawing a great part of the African Continent from the vicissitudes
+of general politics, in confining therein the rivalry of nations to
+peaceful emulation in trade and industry.</p>
+
+<p>“In the same manner you have endeavored to avoid all misunderstanding and
+dispute to which fresh annexations on the African coast might give rise.
+The declaration of the formalities required before such annexation can
+be considered effective, introduces a new rule, into public law, which
+in its turn will remove many a cause of dissent and conflict from our
+international relations.</p>
+
+<p>“The spirit of mutual good understanding which has distinguished your
+deliberations has also presided over the negotiations that have been
+carried on outside the Conference, with a view to arrange the difficult
+question of delimitation between the parties exercising sovereign rights
+in the Congo basin, and which, by their position, are destined to be the
+chief guardians of the work we are about to sanction.</p>
+
+<p>“I cannot touch on this subject without bearing testimony to the noble
+efforts of His Majesty, the King of the Belgians, the founder of a work
+which now has gained the recognition of almost all the Powers, and which,
+as it grows, will render valuable service to the cause of humanity.</p>
+
+<p><!--122.png--><span class="pagenum">117</span></p>
+
+<p>“Gentlemen, I am requested by His Majesty, the Emperor and King, my
+august Master, to convey to you his warmest thanks for the part each
+of you has taken in the felicitous accomplishment of the work of the
+Conference.</p>
+
+<p>“I fulfil a final duty in gratefully acknowledging what the Conference
+owes to those of its members who undertook the hard work of the
+Commission, notably to the Baron de Courcel and to Baron Lambermont. I
+have also to thank the delegates for the valuable assistance they have
+rendered us, and I include in this expression of thanks the secretaries
+of the Conference, who have facilitated our deliberations by the accuracy
+of their work.</p>
+
+<p>“Like the other labors of man, the work of this Conference may be
+improved upon and perfected, but it will, I hope, mark an advance in
+the development of international relations and form a new bond of union
+between the nations of the civilized world.”</p>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<div class="center">General Act of the Conference Respecting<br />
+the Congo Free State.</div>
+
+<div class="center">CHAPTER I.</div>
+
+<div class="hi">
+
+<p>DECLARATION RELATIVE TO THE FREEDOM OF COMMERCE IN THE BASIN OF THE
+CONGO, ITS MOUTHS AND CIRCUMJACENT DISTRICTS, WITH CERTAIN ARRANGEMENTS
+CONNECTED THEREWITH.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> I.&mdash;The trade of all nations shall be entirely free:</p>
+
+<p>1. In all territories constituting the basin of the Congo and its
+affluents. The basin is bounded by the crests of adjoining basins&mdash;that
+is to say, the basins of the Niari, of the Ogow&eacute;, of the Shari, and of
+the Nile towards the north; by the line of the eastern ridge of the
+affluents of Lake Tanganyika towards the east; by the crests of the basin
+of the Zambesi and the Log&eacute; towards the south. It consequently embraces
+all the territories drained by the Congo and its affluents, comprising
+therein Lake Tanganyika and its eastern tributaries.</p>
+
+<p><!--123.png--><span class="pagenum">118</span></p>
+
+<p>2. In the maritime zone extending along the Atlantic Ocean from the
+parallel of 2&deg; 30′ south latitude to the mouth of the Log&eacute;. The northern
+limit will follow the parallel of 2&deg; 30′ from the coast until it reaches
+the geographical basin of the Congo, avoiding the basin of the Ogowe, to
+which the stipulations of the present Act do not apply.</p>
+
+<p>The southern limit will follow the course of the Log&eacute; up to the source
+of that river, and thence strike eastwards to its junction with the
+geographical basin of the Congo.</p>
+
+<p>3. In the zone extending eastwards from the basin of the Congo as
+limited above herein, to the Indian Ocean, from the fifth degree of
+north latitude to the mouth of the Zambesi on the south; from this point
+the line of demarcation will follow the Zambesi up stream to a point
+five miles beyond its junction with the Shire, and continue by the
+line of the ridge dividing the waters which flow towards Lake Nyassa
+from the tributary waters of the Zambesi, until it joins the line of
+the water-parting between the Zambesi and the Congo. It is expressly
+understood that in extending to this eastern zone the principle of
+commercial freedom, the Powers represented at the Conference bind only
+themselves, and that the principle will apply to territories actually
+belonging to some independent and sovereign state only so far as that
+state consents to it. The Powers agree to employ their good officers
+among the established Governments on the African coast of the Indian
+Ocean, to obtain such consent, and in any case to ensure the most
+favorable conditions to all nations.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> II.</p>
+
+<p>All flags, without distinction of nationality, shall have free access
+to all the coast of the territories above enumerated; to the rivers
+which therein flow to the sea; to all the waters of the Congo and its
+affluents, including the lakes; to all the canals that in the future
+may be cut with the object of uniting the water-courses or the lakes
+comprised in the whole extent of the territories described in Article I.
+They can undertake all kinds of transport, and engage in maritime and
+fluvial coasting, as well as river navigation, on the same footing as the
+natives.</p>
+
+<p><!--124.png--><span class="pagenum">119</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> III.</p>
+
+<p>Goods from every source imported into these territories, under any flag
+whatever, either by way of the sea, the rivers, or the land, shall pay
+no taxes except such as are equitable compensation for the necessary
+expenses of the trade, and which can meet with equal support from the
+natives and from foreigners of every nationality.</p>
+
+<p>All differential treatment is forbidden both with regard to ships and
+goods.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> IV.</p>
+
+<p>Goods imported into these territories will remain free of all charges for
+entry and transit.</p>
+
+<p>The Powers reserve to themselves, until the end of a period of twenty
+years, the right of deciding if freedom of entry shall be maintained or
+not.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> V.</p>
+
+<p>Every Power which exercises, or will exercise, sovereign rights in the
+territories above mentioned, cannot therein concede any monopoly or
+privilege of any sort in commercial matters.</p>
+
+<p>Foreigners shall therein indiscriminately enjoy the same treatment and
+rights as the natives in the protection of their persons and goods,
+in the acquisition and transmission of their property, movable and
+immovable, and in the exercise of their professions.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> VI.</p>
+
+<p>PROVISIONS RELATIVE TO THE PROTECTION OF THE NATIVES, TO MISSIONARIES AND
+TRAVELERS, AND TO RELIGIOUS LIBERTY.</p>
+
+<p>All the Powers exercising sovereign rights, or having influence in the
+said territories, undertake to watch over the preservation of the native
+races, and the amelioration of the moral and material conditions of
+their existence, and to co-operate in the suppression of slavery, and,
+above all, of the slave trade; they will protect and encourage, without
+distinction of nationality or creed, all institutions and enterprises,
+religious, scientific, or charitable, established and organized for these
+objects, or tending to educate the natives and lead them to understand
+and appreciate the advantages of civilization.</p>
+
+<p><!--125.png--><span class="pagenum">120</span></p>
+
+<p>Christian missionaries, men of science, explorers and their escorts and
+collections, to be equally the object of special protection.</p>
+
+<p>Liberty of conscience and religious tolerations are expressly guaranteed
+to the natives as well as to the inhabitants and foreigners. The free
+public exercise of every creed, the right to erect religious buildings
+and to organize missions belonging to every creed, shall be subjected to
+no restriction or impediment whatever.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> VII.</p>
+
+<p>POSTAL ARRANGEMENTS.</p>
+
+<p>The Convention of the Postal Union, revised at Paris, on June 1, 1878,
+shall apply to the said basin of the Congo.</p>
+
+<p>The Powers which there exercise, or will exercise, rights of sovereignty
+or protectorate, undertake, as soon as circumstances permit, to introduce
+the necessary measures to give effect to the above resolutions.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> VIII.</p>
+
+<p>RIGHT OF SURVEILLANCE CONFERRED ON THE INTERNATIONAL COMMISSION FOR THE
+NAVIGATION OF THE CONGO.</p>
+
+<p>In all parts of the territory embraced in the present Declaration, where
+no Power shall exercise the rights of sovereignty or protectorate, the
+International Commission for the navigation of the Congo, constituted in
+accordance with Article XVII, shall be intrusted with the surveillance
+of the application of the principles declared and established in this
+Declaration.</p>
+
+<p>In all cases of difficulties arising, relative to the application of
+the principles established by the present Declaration, the Governments
+interested shall agree to appeal to the good offices of the International
+Commission, leaving to it the examination of the facts which have given
+rise to the difficulties.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<div class="center">CHAPTER II.</div>
+
+<div class="center">DECLARATION CONCERNING THE SLAVE TRADE.</div>
+
+<div class="center"><span class="smcap">Article</span> IX.</div>
+
+<p>In conformity with the principles of the right of natives as recognized
+by the signatory Powers, the slave trade being forbidden,
+and<!--126.png--><span class="pagenum">121</span>
+operations, which on land or sea supply slaves for the trade, being
+equally held to be forbidden, the Powers, which exercise or will exercise
+rights of sovereignty or influence in the territories forming the basin
+of the Congo, declare that these territories shall serve neither for the
+place of sale, nor the way of transit for traffic in slaves of any race
+whatsoever. Each of the Powers undertakes to employ every means that it
+can to put an end to the trade and to punish those who engage in it.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<p>CHAPTER III.</p>
+
+<p>DECLARATION RELATING TO THE NEUTRALITY OF THE TERRITORIES COMPRISED IN
+THE SAID BASIN OF THE CONGO.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> X.</p>
+
+<p>In order to give a new guarantee of security for commerce and industry,
+and to encourage by the maintenance of peace the development of
+civilization in the countries mentioned in Article I, or placed under
+the system of free trade, the High Parties signatory to the present
+Act, and those who will accept the same, hereby undertake to respect
+the neutrality of the territories or parts of the territories dependent
+on the said countries, comprising therein the territorial waters, for
+so long as the Powers, which exercise, or will exercise, the rights of
+sovereignty or protectorate over the territories, avail themselves of the
+right to proclaim them neutral, and fulfill the duties that neutrality
+implies.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XI.</p>
+
+<p>In cases where a Power exercising the rights of sovereignty or
+protectorate in the countries as mentioned in Article I, and placed under
+the system of free trade, shall be involved in war, the High Parties
+signatory to the present Act, and those who will accept the same, hereby
+engage to use their good officers so that the territories belonging to
+that Power, and comprised within the said boundaries where free trade
+exists, shall, by the mutual consent of that Power and of the other, or
+others, of the belligerent parties, be held to be neutral, for so long as
+the war lasts, and considered as belonging to a non-belligerent state,
+the belligerent parties
+will<!--127.png--><span class="pagenum">122</span>
+then abstain from extending hostilities
+into such neutralized territories as well as from using them as a base
+for operations of war.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XII.</p>
+
+<p>In the event of a serious disagreement originating on the subject, or
+arising within the limits of the territories mentioned in Article I and
+placed under the system of freedom of trade, between Powers signatory to
+the present Act, or Powers accepting the same, these Powers undertake,
+before appealing to arms, to have recourse to the mediation of one or
+several of the friendly Powers.</p>
+
+<p>Under the said circumstances the said Powers reserve to themselves the
+option of proceeding to arbitration.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<p>CHAPTER IV.</p>
+
+<p>ACT OF THE NAVIGATION OF THE CONGO.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XIII.</p>
+
+<p>The navigation of the Congo, without any exception of any branches or
+issues of the river, is to remain entirely free for merchant shipping
+of all nations in cargo or ballast, for the carriage of cargo or the
+carriage of passengers. It shall be in accordance with the provisions
+of the present Act of navigation, or of the regulations established in
+execution of the said Act.</p>
+
+<p>In the exercise of that navigation, the subjects and flags of all
+nations, shall, under all circumstances, be treated on a footing of
+absolute equality, as well as regards the direct navigation from the open
+sea towards the interior parts of the Congo, and <i>vice versa</i>, as for
+grand and petty coasting, and boat and river work all along the river.</p>
+
+<p>Consequently, throughout the Congo’s course and mouth, no distinction
+shall be made between the subjects of the river-side States, and those
+not bordering on the river, and no exclusive privilege of navigation
+shall be granted either to societies, corporations or individuals.</p>
+
+<p>These provisions are recognized by the signatory Powers, as henceforth
+forming part of public international law.</p>
+
+<p><!--128.png--><span class="pagenum">123</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XIV.</p>
+
+<p>The navigation of the Congo shall not be subjected to any restraints or
+imposts which are not expressly stipulated for in the present Act. It
+shall not be burdened with any duties for harborage stoppages, depots,
+breaking bulk, or putting in through stress of weather.</p>
+
+<p>Throughout the length of the Congo, ships and merchandise passing along
+the stream shall be subject to no transit dues, no matter what may be
+their origin or destination.</p>
+
+<p>There shall not be established any tolls, marine or river, based on
+the fact of navigation alone, nor shall any duty be imposed on the
+merchandise on board the vessels. Such taxes and duties only shall be
+levied, as are of the character of remuneration for services rendered, to
+the said navigation. That is to say:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>(1) Taxes of the port for the actual use of certain local establishments,
+such as wharves, warehouses etc. The tariff of such taxes to be
+calculated on the expenses of construction and support of the said local
+establishments, and in its application to be independent of the origin of
+the vessels and their cargo.</p>
+
+<p>(2) Pilotage dues on sections of the river, or where it appears necessary
+to establish stations of certificated pilots.</p>
+
+<p>The tariff of these dues to be fixed and proportionate to the services
+rendered.</p>
+
+<p>(3) Dues in respect of the technical and administrative expenses, imposed
+in the general interest of the navigation, and comprising light-houses,
+beacon, and buoyage dues.</p>
+
+<p>Dues of the last description to be based on the tonnage of the ships,
+according to the papers on board, and to be conformable to the
+regulations in force on the Lower Danube.</p>
+
+<p>The tariffs of the taxes and dues mentioned in the three preceding
+paragraphs are not to admit of any differential treatment, and are to be
+officially published in each port.</p>
+
+<p>The Powers reserve to themselves the right, at the end of five years, by
+mutual agreement, to inquire into the above-mentioned tariffs in case
+they require revision.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XV.</p>
+
+<p>The affluents of the Congo shall, under all circumstances, be subject to
+the same regulations as the river of which they are the tributaries.</p>
+
+<p><!--129.png--><span class="pagenum">124</span></p>
+
+<p>The same regulations shall apply to the lakes and canals as to the rivers
+and streams in the territories defined in Article I, paragraphs 2 and 3.</p>
+
+<p>Nevertheless the Powers of the International Commission of the Congo
+shall not extend over the said rivers, lakes and canals, unless with the
+assent of the States under whose sovereignty they are placed. It is also
+understood that for the territories mentioned in Article I, paragraph
+3, the consent of the sovereign States on whom these territories are
+dependent remains reserved.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XVI.</p>
+
+<p>The roads, railways, or lateral canals, which shall be established for
+the special object of supplementing the innavigability or imperfections
+of the water-way in certain sections of the Congo, of its affluents and
+other water-courses held to be like unto them by Article XV, shall be
+considered in their capacity as means of communication as dependencies of
+the river, and shall be likewise open to the traffic of all nations.</p>
+
+<p>And as on the river, there shall be levied on these roads, railways and
+canals only tolls calculated on the expenses of construction, maintenance
+and administration, and on the profits due to the promoters.</p>
+
+<p>In the assessment of these tolls, foreigners and the inhabitants of the
+respective territories shall be treated on a footing of perfect equality.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XVII.</p>
+
+<p>An International Commission is instituted and appointed to ensure the
+execution of the provisions of the present Act of Navigation.</p>
+
+<p>The Powers signatory to this Act, as well as those who afterwards accept
+it, shall at all times be represented on the said Commission, each by a
+delegate. No delegate shall have more than one vote, even in the event of
+his representing several governments.</p>
+
+<p>This delegate shall be paid by his own government direct. The salaries
+and allowances of the agents and servants of the International Commission
+shall be charged to the proceeds of the dues levied conformably to
+Article XIV, paragraphs 2 and 3.</p>
+
+<p><!--130.png--><span class="pagenum">125</span></p>
+
+<p>The amounts of said salaries and allowances, as well as the number,
+position and duties of the agents and servants, shall appear in the
+account rendered each year to the Governments represented on the
+International Commission.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XVIII.</p>
+
+<p>The members of the International Commission, as well as the agents
+nominated by them, are invested with the privilege of inviolability in
+the exercise of their functions. The same guarantee shall extend to the
+offices, premises and archives of the Commission.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XIX.</p>
+
+<p>The International Commission for the navigation of the Congo, shall
+be constituted as soon as five of the signatory Powers of the present
+General Act shall have nominated their delegates. Pending the
+constitution of the Commission, the nomination of the delegates shall be
+notified to the Government of the German Empire, by whom the necessary
+steps will be taken to manage the meeting of the Commission.</p>
+
+<p>The Commission will draw up, without delay, the arrangements for the
+navigation, river police, pilotage and quarantine.</p>
+
+<p>These regulations, as well as the tariffs, instituted by the Commission,
+before being put in force, shall be submitted to the approbation of
+the Powers represented on the Commission. The powers interested, shall
+declare their opinion therein with the least possible delay.</p>
+
+<p>Offences against these regulations shall be dealt with by the agents of
+the International Commission, where it exercises its authority direct,
+and in other places by the river-side Powers.</p>
+
+<p>In case of abuse of power or injustice on the part of an agent or servant
+of the International Commission, the individual considering himself
+injured in his person or his rights, shall apply to the consular agent of
+his nation. He will inquire into his complaint, and if <i>prima faci&eacute;</i>, he
+finds it reasonable, he shall be entitled to report it to the Commission.
+On his initiative, the Commission, represented by three or fewer of its
+members, shall join with him in an inquiry touching the conduct of its
+agent or servant. If the
+Consular<!--131.png--><span class="pagenum">126</span>
+agent considers the decision of the
+Commission as objectionable in law, he shall report to the Government,
+who shall refer to the Powers represented on the Commission, and invite
+them to agree as to the instructions to be given to the Commission.</p>
+
+<div class="center"><span class="smcap">Article XX.</span></div>
+
+<p>The International Commission of the Congo, entrusted under the terms
+of Article XVII, with insuring the execution of the present Act of
+Navigation, shall specially devote its attention to:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>(1.) The indication of such works as are necessary for insuring the
+navigability of the Congo, in accordance with the requirements of
+international trade.</p>
+
+<p>On sections of the river where no Power exercises rights of sovereignty,
+the international Commission shall itself take the measures necessary for
+insuring the navigability of the stream.</p>
+
+<p>On sections of the river occupied by a sovereign Power, the International
+Commission shall arrange with the river-side authority.</p>
+
+<p>(2.) The fixing of the tariff for pilotage, and of the general tariff
+of navigation dues, provided for in the second and third paragraphs of
+Article XIV.</p>
+
+<p>The tariffs mentioned in the first paragraph of Article XIV, shall be
+settled by the territorial authority within the limits provided for in
+that article.</p>
+
+<p>The collection of these dues shall be under the care of the international
+or territorial authority, on whose account they have been established.</p>
+
+<p>3. The administration of the revenues accruing from the application of
+the foregoing paragraph 2.</p>
+
+<p>4. The surveillance of the quarantine establishment instituted in
+compliance with Article XXIV.</p>
+
+<p>5. The nomination of agents for the general service of the navigation and
+its own particular servants.</p>
+
+<p>The appointment of sub-inspectors shall belong to the territorial
+authority over sections occupied by a Power, and to the International
+Commission over the other sections of the river.</p>
+
+<p>The river-side Power will notify to the International Commission the
+nomination of its sub-inspectors which it shall have appointed, and this
+Power shall pay their salaries.</p>
+
+<p><!--132.png--><span class="pagenum">127</span></p>
+
+<p>In the exercise of its duties, as defined and limited above, the
+International Commission shall not be subject to the territorial
+authority.</p>
+
+<div class="center"><span class="smcap">Article XXI.</span></div>
+
+<p>In the execution of its task, the International Commission shall have
+recourse, in case of need, to the vessels of war belonging to the
+signatory Powers of this Act, and to those which in the future shall
+accept it, if not in contravention of the instructions which shall
+have been given to the commanders of those vessels by their respective
+governments.</p>
+
+<div class="center"><span class="smcap">Article XXII.</span></div>
+
+<p>The vessels of war of the Powers signatory to the present Act which enter
+the Congo are exempt from the payment of the navigation dues provided for
+in paragraph 3 of Article XIV; but they shall pay the contingent pilotage
+dues as well as the harbor dues, unless their intervention has been
+demanded by the International Commission or its agents under the terms of
+the preceding Article.</p>
+
+<div class="center"><span class="smcap">Article XXIII.</span></div>
+
+<p>With the object of meeting the technical and administrative expenses
+which it may have to incur, the International Commission, instituted
+under Article XVII, may in its own name issue loans secured on the
+revenues assigned to the said Commission.</p>
+
+<p>The resolutions of the Commission regarding the issue of a loan must be
+carried by a majority of two-thirds of its votes. It is understood that
+the Governments represented on the Commission shall not, in any case, be
+considered as assuming any guarantee nor contracting any engagement or
+joint responsibility with regard to said laws, unless special treaties
+are concluded amongst them to that effect.</p>
+
+<p>The proceeds of the dues specified in the third paragraph of Article XIV
+shall be in the first place set aside for the payment of interest and the
+extinction of said loans, in accordance with the agreements entered into
+with the lenders.</p>
+
+<div class="center"><span class="smcap">Article XXIV.</span></div>
+
+<p>At the mouths of the Congo there shall be founded, either at the
+initiation of the river-side Powers, or by the intervention of
+the<!--133.png--><span class="pagenum">128</span>
+International Commission, a quarantine establishment, which shall
+exercise control over the vessels entering and departing.</p>
+
+<p>It shall be decided later on by the Powers, if any, and under what
+conditions, sanitary control shall be exercised over vessels navigating
+the river.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XXV.</p>
+
+<p>The provisions of the present Act of Navigation shall remain in force
+during times of war. Consequently, the navigation of all nations, neutral
+and belligerent, shall at all times be free for the purposes of trade on
+the Congo, its branches, its affluents, and its mouths, as well as on the
+territorial waters fronting the mouths of the river.</p>
+
+<p>The traffic shall likewise remain free, notwithstanding the state of war,
+on its roads, railways, lakes and canals, as mentioned in Articles XV and
+XVI.</p>
+
+<p>The only exception to this principle shall be in cases in connection
+with the transport of articles intended for a belligerent, and held in
+accordance with the law of nations to be contraband of war.</p>
+
+<p>All the works and establishments instituted in execution of the present
+Act, particularly the offices of collection and their funds, the same as
+the staff permanently attached to the service of such establishments,
+shall be treated as neutral, and shall be respected and protected by the
+belligerents.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<div class="center">CHAPTER V.</div>
+
+<div class="center">THE ACT OF NAVIGATION OF THE NIGER.</div>
+
+<div class="center"><span class="smcap">Article</span> XXVI.</div>
+
+<p>The navigation of the Niger, without excepting any of the branches or
+issues, is, and shall continue free for merchant vessels of all nations,
+in cargo or ballast, conveying goods or conveying passengers. It shall
+be conducted in accordance with the provisions of the present Act of
+Navigation, and with the regulations established in execution of the same
+Act.</p>
+
+<p>In the exercise of that navigation, the subjects and flags of every
+nation shall be treated, under all circumstances, on a footing of
+perfect<!--134.png--><span class="pagenum">129</span>
+equality, as well in the direct navigation from the open sea to the
+interior ports of the Niger, and <i>vice versa</i>, as for grand and petty
+coasting, and in boat and river work throughout its course.</p>
+
+<p>Consequently throughout the length and mouths of the Niger, there shall
+be no distinction between the subjects of the riverside States, and
+those of States not bordering on the river, and there shall be conceded
+no exclusive privilege of navigation to any society, or corporation or
+individual.</p>
+
+<p>These provisions are recognised by the signatory Powers as henceforth
+forming part of public international law,</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XXVII.</p>
+
+<p>The navigation of the Niger shall not be subjected to any obstacle nor
+duty based only on the fact of the navigation.</p>
+
+<p>It shall not be subject to any duties for harborage, stoppages, depots,
+breaking bulk, or putting into port through stress of weather.</p>
+
+<p>Throughout the length of the Niger, vessels and goods passing along the
+stream shall not be subject to any transit dues, whatsoever may be their
+origin or destination.</p>
+
+<p>There shall be established no sea or river toll, based on the sole fact
+of navigation, nor any duty on the goods which happen to be on board the
+ships. Only such taxes and dues shall be levied as are of the nature of a
+payment for services rendered to the said navigation. The tariff of these
+taxes or dues shall admit of no differential treatment.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XXVIII.</p>
+
+<p>The affluents of the Niger shall in every respect be subject to the same
+regulations as the river of which they are the tributaries.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XXIX.</p>
+
+<p>Roads, railways or lateral canals, which shall be established with the
+special object of supplementing the innavigability or other imperfections
+of the waterway, in certain sections of the course of the Niger, its
+affluents, its branches, and its issues, shall be considered, in their
+capacity of means of communication, as dependencies of the river and
+shall be open similarly to the traffic of all nations,</p>
+
+<p><!--135.png--><span class="pagenum">130</span></p>
+
+<p>As on the river, there shall be levied on the roads, railways and canals,
+only such tolls as are calculated on the expenses of construction,
+maintenance and administration, and on the profits due to the promoters.</p>
+
+<p>In the assessment of these tolls, foreigners and the inhabitants of the
+respective territories, shall be treated on a footing of perfect equality.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XXX.</p>
+
+<p>Great Britain undertakes to apply the principles of freedom of navigation
+annunciated in Articles XXVI., XXVII., XXVIII., XXIX., to so much of the
+waters of the Niger and its affluent branches and issues as are or shall
+be under her sovereignty or protectorate.</p>
+
+<p>The regulations she will draw up for the safety and control of the
+navigation, shall be designed to facilitate, as much as possible, the
+passage of merchant shipping.</p>
+
+<p>It is understood that nothing in the engagements thus accepted shall be
+interpreted as hindering or likely to hinder Great Britain from making
+any regulations whatever as to the navigation which shall not be contrary
+to the spirit of such engagements.</p>
+
+<p>Great Britain undertakes to protect foreign traders of every nation
+engaged in commerce in those parts of the course of the Niger, which are
+or shall be under her sovereignty or protectorate, as if they were her
+own subjects, provided that such traders conform to the regulations which
+are or shall be established in accordance with the foregoing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XXXI.</p>
+
+<p>France accepts, under the same reservations and identical terms, the
+obligations set forth in the preceding articles, so far as they apply
+to the waters of the Niger, its affluents, its branches and its issues,
+which are or shall be under her sovereignty or protectorate.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XXXII.</p>
+
+<p>Each of the other Signatory Powers similarly undertake, that they will
+similarly act in such cases as they exercise or may hereafter exercise,
+rights of sovereignty or protectorate, in any part of the Niger, its
+affluent branches or issues.</p>
+
+<p><!--136.png--><span class="pagenum">131</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XXXIII.</p>
+
+<p>The provisions of the present Act of Navigation shall remain in force
+during times of war. Consequently, the navigation of all nations, neutral
+or belligerant, shall at all times be free for the purpose of trade on
+the Niger, its branches, affluents, mouths and issues, as well as on the
+territorial waters fronting the mouths and issues of the river.</p>
+
+<p>The traffic shall likewise remain free, notwithstanding the state of war,
+on its roads, its railways and canals mentioned in Article XXIX.</p>
+
+<p>The only exception to this principle shall be in cases in connection
+with the transport of articles intended for a belligerent, and held, in
+accordance with the laws of nations, to be contraband of war.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<div class="center">CHAPTER VI.</div>
+
+<div class="hi">
+
+<p>DECLARATION RELATIVE TO THE ESSENTIAL CONDITIONS FOR NEW
+ANNEXATIONS ON THE AFRICAN CONTINENT TO BE CONSIDERED
+EFFECTIVE.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="center"><span class="smcap">Article</span> XXXIV.</div>
+
+<p>The Power, which in future takes possession of a territory on the coast
+of the African Continent, situated outside of its actual possessions, or
+which, having none there, has first acquired them, and the power which
+assumes a protectorate, shall accompany either act by a notification
+addressed to the other Powers signatory to the present Act, so as to
+enable them to protest against the same, if there exist any grounds for
+their doing so.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XXXV.</p>
+
+<p>The Powers signatory to the present Act, recognize the obligation to
+insure in the territories occupied by them on the coasts of the African
+Continent, the existence of an adequate authority to enforce respect
+for acquired rights, and for freedom of trade and transit wherever
+stipulated.</p>
+
+<p><!--137.png--><span class="pagenum">132</span></p>
+
+<div class="center">CHAPTER VII.</div>
+
+<div class="center">GENERAL PROVISIONS.</div>
+
+<div class="center"><span class="smcap">Article</span> XXXVI.</div>
+
+<p>The Powers signatory to the present general Act reserve to themselves
+the right of eventually, by mutual agreement, introducing therein
+modifications or improvements, the utility of which has been shown by
+experience.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XXXVII.</p>
+
+<p>The Powers who may not have signed the present Act shall accept its
+provisions by a separate Act.</p>
+
+<p>The adhesion of each Power shall be notified in the usual diplomatic
+manner to the Government of the German Empire, and by it to those of all
+the signatory and adherent States.</p>
+
+<p>The adhesion shall imply the full right of acceptance of all the
+obligations, and admission to all the advantages stipulated for in the
+present general Act.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> XXXVIII.</p>
+
+<p>The present general Act shall be ratified with as short a delay as
+possible, and in no case shall that delay exceed a year.</p>
+
+<p>It shall come into force for each Power on the date of its ratification
+by that Power.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile the Powers signatory to the present Act bind themselves to
+adopt no measure that shall be contrary to the provisions of the said Act.</p>
+
+<p>Each Power shall send its ratification to the Government of the German
+Empire, which undertakes to ratify the same to all the signatory Powers
+of the present general Act.</p>
+
+<p>The ratifications of all the Powers shall remain deposited in the
+archives of the Government of the German Empire. When all the
+ratifications shall have been produced, a deed of deposit shall be drawn
+up in a protocol, which shall be signed by the Representatives of all the
+Powers that have taken part in the Berlin Conference, and a certified
+copy of it shall be sent to each of those Powers.</p>
+
+<p><!--138.png--><span class="pagenum">133</span></p>
+
+<p>In consideration of which, the respective Plenipotentiaries have signed
+the present general Act, and hereto affix their seals.</p>
+
+<p>Done at Berlin, February 26th, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>Inasmuch as the Congo Free State starts with the sanction of all the
+leading powers of civilization, it assumes a dignity, at its very
+inception, which attaches to no other African dynasty. It is, or ought
+to be, beyond those jealousies which have torn, and are tearing, other
+possessions in Africa to pieces, and retarding their colonization and
+development. Further, the terms of its creation ought to assure it the
+united sympathy and combined energy of its patrons and founders, and
+these ought to be invincible within its magnificent boundaries for
+overcoming every obstacle to permanent sovereignty and commercial,
+industrial and moral development.</p>
+
+<p>But the spirit of comity, which has made a Congo Free State possible,
+might as well have rescued Equatorial Africa, from ocean to ocean, from
+the rapacious grasp of the jealous and contending powers of Europe. True,
+something like a free belt has been recognized, extending to within a few
+miles of the Eastern coast, and intended to secure an outlet for products
+which can be more advantageously marketed in that direction; yet this
+is of no avail against projects designed to appropriate and control,
+politically and commercially, the immense sweep of country between the
+Congo Free State and Indian Ocean; it is rather an incentive to these
+powers to make haste in their work of appropriation and reduction,
+and they are at it with an earnestness which savors of the days when
+two Americas furnished the flesh for picking, and the bone for angry
+contention. Great Britain, Portugal, Germany, Italy, are in clash about
+East African areas, protectorates, sovereignties, commercial interests,
+with the likelihood of further trouble, and such deep complications as
+arms only can simplify and relieve.</p>
+
+<p>Looking but a little into the future, one can catch a glimpse of the
+fate in store for East Africa. It is to be the grand political offset
+to the Congo Free State. This has been resolved upon by Great Britain,
+and its outlines are already mapped in her foreign policy. As matters
+stand, there is nothing to prevent the consummation of her designs. She
+has virtual possession of the Eastern coast from Cape Colony to the mouth
+of the Zambezi. She has Egypt in
+her<!--139.png--><span class="pagenum">134</span>
+grasp, which means the Nile valley
+from Alexandria to the head lakes, Victoria, Albert and Edward Nyanza,
+with their drainage systems.</p>
+
+<p>On the ocean side the power of the Sultan has been already limited to
+Zanzibar and adjacent islands, and it is now like the last flicker
+of a wasted candle. On the Zambezi, and north of it, up the Shire to
+Lake Nyassa, come the claims of Portugal. Portugal is weak, and a poor
+colonizer at that. She can be ousted by diplomacy or sat down upon by
+force. The German and Italian interests will eventually blend with those
+of Great Britain, or shape themselves into well-defined states, pledged
+to peace and anxious to be let alone.</p>
+
+<p>England is well equipped for this gigantic undertaking. She has an
+extensive South African and Egyptian experience. She has her experience
+in India, which she need but repeat in Africa to realize her dreams,
+or at least achieve more than would be possible with any other power.
+And then India is over-populated. It might be that thousands, perhaps
+millions, of her people would swarm to African shores, where they would
+find a climate not unlike their own, and resources which they could turn
+to ready account. At any rate, England could enlist in India an army for
+the occupation of East Africa. Her Indian contingent in Egypt answered
+an excellent purpose, and redeemed the otherwise fatal campaign toward
+Khartoum.</p>
+
+<p>The business of establishing an internal economy in this new empire is
+easier for Great Britain than any other country. Her prestige means as
+much with native tribes as with the petty sovereignties of Europe, or the
+islands of the Pacific. Her shows of force are impressive, her methods
+of discipline effective. In the midst of opposition her hand is hard and
+heavy. A string of fortifications from the Zambezi to Cairo, with native
+garrisons, under control of English army officers, would inspire the
+natives with fear and assure their allegiance. The tact of her traders
+and the perseverance of her missionaries would bring about all else that
+might be necessary to create a thrifty and semi-Christian State.</p>
+
+<p>Our posterity will watch with interest the development of Africa through
+the agency of its Congo Free State on the west, and
+its<!--140.png--><span class="pagenum">135</span>
+Imperial
+State on the east; the one contributing to the glory of all civilized
+nations, the other to that of a single nation; the one an enlargement of
+sovereignty, the other a concentration of it. One has for its inspiration
+the genius of freedom, the other the genius of force. One is a dedication
+to civilizing influences, the other is a seizure and appropriation in the
+name of civilization. We can conceive of the latter, under the impetus of
+patronage and of concentrated energy, supplemented by arbitrary power,
+taking the lead for a time, and maintaining it till its viceroyalties
+become centers of corruption and its subjects helpless peons. But in
+the end, the former will bound to the front, lifted by internal forces,
+which are free and virile, buoyed by a spirit of self-helpfulness
+and independence, sustained from without by universal sympathy and
+admiration, and from within by beings who have voluntarily consented
+and contributed to their progress and enlightenment, and are proud
+participants in their own institutions.</p>
+
+<p>The historian of a century hence will confirm or deny the above
+observations. If he confirms them, he will add that long experience
+proved the inutility of forcing our governments, usages and peoples on
+those of Africa without modification, and to the utter subordination of
+those which were native; but that, on the contrary, the best civilizing
+results were obtained by recognition of native elements, their gradual
+endowment with sovereignty, their elevation to the trusts which commerce
+and industry impose. It is time that our boasted civilization should
+show a conquest which is not based on the inferiority, wreck and
+extermination of the races it meets with in its course. It has careered
+around the globe in temperate belts, stopping for nothing that came in
+its way, justifying everything by its superiority. Nature calls a halt in
+mid-Africa, and practically says: “The agents of civilization are already
+here. Use them, but do not abuse. You can substitute no other that will
+prove either permanent or profitable.”</p>
+
+<p><!--141.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">136</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_136.jpg" width="600" height="355"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">FRONT. TIPPOO TIB’S GRAND CANOES GOING DOWN THE
+CONGO.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--142.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">137</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_137.jpg" width="600" height="357"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">REAR. TIPPOO TIB’S GRAND CANOES GOING DOWN THE
+CONGO.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--143.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">138</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 360px;">
+<img src="images/i_138.jpg" width="360" height="450"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">HENRY M. STANLEY, FROM A LATE PORTRAIT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><!--144.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">139</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>
+THE RESCUE OF EMIN.
+</h2>
+
+<p>In the fall of 1886, Stanley was summoned from the United States
+by the King of Belgium to come and pay him a visit. That monarch seems
+to have remembered what others had forgotten, that a European adventurer
+and a European project lay buried somewhere beneath the Equator and in
+the very heart of the “Dark Continent.” Stanley responded to the King’s
+invitation, and out of the interview which followed sprang a reason for
+his late and most memorable journey across equatorial Africa. But it was
+deemed wise to interest other agencies, and so the British Geographical
+Society was consulted and induced to lend a helping hand. In order to
+further nationalize the projected journey a commission was formed under
+whose auspices it was to take place. This enlisted for the moment the
+sympathies of the German peoples, for the lost one was a German. So
+grew up what came to be known as the “Emin Bey Relief Committee,” with
+head-quarters at London, and with Sir William Mackinnon as its secretary.</p>
+
+<p>And now, who is Emin Bey, or as he appears most frequently, Emin Pasha?
+What is there about his disappearance in the wilds of Africa that makes
+knowledge of his whereabouts and his rescue so desirable? What, of more
+than humanitarian moment, can attach to a journey planned as this one
+was? These questions are momentous, for they involve far more than mere
+men or mere projects of rescue. They involve the aims and ambitions of
+empires, the policies of dynasties, the destinies of future African
+States and peoples. That these things are true will appear from the
+answers which history makes to the above queries&mdash;a history which is
+aglow with events and attractive in its details, however little it may
+serve<!--145.png--><span class="pagenum">140</span>
+to reveal of the present plans of those who contribute most to its
+making. Emin Pasha was born in the Austrian province of Silesia, and the
+town of Opplen, in 1840, the same year as Henry M. Stanley. He studied
+medicine at Breslau, K&ouml;nigsberg and Berlin, and entered upon the world as
+a regular M.D. with a diploma from the Berlin University. Sometime before
+the Russian-Turkish war he went to Constantinople and entered the Turkish
+army with the title of Bey, or Colonel. A taste for travel took him to
+the East where he acquired the oriental languages. On his return we find
+him attached to the Imperial Ministry of Turkey, but only during part of
+the incumbency of Midhat Pasha, who, finding his ministry opposed to his
+ultra hatred of Russia, dismissed it.</p>
+
+<p>Up to this time he was known as Dr. Eduard (Edward) Schnitzer, that
+being the name of his parents, with the prefix of Colonel, or Bey as an
+affix. This was all as to outside knowledge of him. On his dismissal from
+the Court at Constantinople he fled to Asia, and after many wanderings
+turned up at Suakim and finally at Khartoum, in Africa, where he made
+the acquaintance of that ill-starred and fatalistic English adventurer,
+General Gordon, then Governor General of the Soudan, under English
+auspices. The General finding him an adventurer of attainments made him
+a storekeeper of his army, and upon ascertaining that he was an M.D.,
+promoted him to the position of surgeon. In 1877 he was a practitioner
+of medicine at Lado, in southern Soudan. He afterwards became
+Surgeon-General of Gordon’s staff. In this capacity he served for four
+years. During this time he was engaged in making many valuable scientific
+researches and collections and in contributing interesting papers to
+European learned societies. He was also of great use to Gordon, who sent
+him to Uganda and Unyoro on diplomatic missions.</p>
+
+<p>In 1878, when General Gordon was made Governor-General of the Soudan by
+the British Government, he raised Col. Schnitzer to the rank of Governor
+of the province of Hat el Seva in Southern Soudan. By this time the Mahdi
+had risen in the Soudan, and was confronting Gordon with his Mohammedan
+followers. To identify himself more fully with the Mohammedan people
+among which he had to live, Col. Schnitzer abandoned his German name and
+took the Arabic one of Emin (the faithful one) and the full title of
+Pasha<!--147.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span>
+(General or Governor). The scheme on the part of Gordon was to
+seize and hold the equatorial provinces of the Soudan, in the rear of
+the Mahdi’s forces, and thus introduce a military menace as well as make
+a political and moral diversion in favor of the cause he represented.
+Gordon gave him part of his own army, augmented by a large native force,
+and with this Emin Pasha took possession of his provinces far toward the
+Equator, and abutting on the central lake system of the continent.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 398px;">
+<img src="images/i_141.jpg" width="398" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">EMIN PASHA IN HIS TENT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>For a time all went well with him. He proved a most indefatigable
+traveler, and showed special fitness to govern. He was familiar with the
+language of the Turks, Arabs, Germans, French and Italians, and acquired
+readily the dialects of the heathen tribes. On every side he displayed
+suavity, tact and genius. In 1879, he made an excursion to the western
+shore land of the Mwutan, which till then had not been visited by white
+men. In 1880 he visited Makralla-land, and planted many trading stations,
+thus enlarging his territory geographically and politically. In this
+expedition he located many important rivers, chief of which was the
+Kibali. In 1881 he pushed his explorations westward into the land of the
+powerful Niam Niams, and southward into the lands of the Monbuttus, which
+tribes are types of the best physical and political strength in that part
+of Africa, west of the Nile sources.</p>
+
+<p>Thus Emin kept on increasing the extent and importance of his territory,
+and it came to be recognized as the best governed of any in the
+vast undefined domain of the Soudan. He found it infested with Arab
+slave-dealers, who practiced all the barbarities of their kind, and much
+of his time was occupied in suppressing the nefarious traffic. He became
+the recognized foe of those who penetrated his domains to barter in human
+flesh, or if cupidity dictated, to burn, pillage and kill, in order that
+they might freight their dhwos with trophies of their cruelty.</p>
+
+<p>Though undefined east and west, his kingdom came to recognize Lado as its
+northern capital, and Wadelai, on Lake Albert Nyanza, as its southern.
+The work of organizing his territory extended from 1878 to 1882. He
+had practically driven out the slave-traders and converted a deficient
+revenue into a surplus for his government, conducting everything on
+the basis laid down by his superior,
+General<!--148.png--><span class="pagenum">143</span>
+Gordon, and carrying out
+with the most marked success the plans of that noble enthusiast. He was
+fast making his territory semi-civilized when the Mahdi arose, led his
+hosts northward, massacred the army of Gordon, and finally made himself
+master of Khartoum and a great part of the Soudan. This was in 1882. The
+Egyptian garrisons throughout the Southern Soudan were then abandoned to
+their fate, and the last attempt to save Khartoum ended with the death of
+General Gordon.</p>
+
+<p>During the years of bloodshed that followed, Emin remained at his post,
+his provinces entirely cut off from the world, and he himself neglected
+and left entirely to his own resources. He held at the time about four
+thousand native and Egyptian troops under his command. He was completely
+surrounded by hostile tribes, but it is generally admitted that if he had
+chosen to leave behind him the thousands of helpless women and children
+and abandon the province to the merciless cruelties of the slave traders,
+he could easily have effected his escape either to the Congo or to the
+Zanzibar coast. But he determined to stay and to keep the equatorial
+provinces for civilization, if possible.</p>
+
+<p>The great work done by this brave and indefatigable German cannot be told
+here in detail. But he organized auxiliary forces of native soldiers; he
+was constantly engaged in warfare with surrounding tribes; he garrisoned
+a dozen river stations lying long distances apart. His ammunition ran
+low and he lacked the money needed for paying his small army; but in the
+face of manifold difficulties and dangers he maintained his position,
+governed the country well, and taught the natives how to raise cotton,
+rice, indigo and coffee, and also how to weave cloth and to make shoes,
+candles, soap and many articles of commerce. He vaccinated the natives
+by the thousand in order to stamp out small-pox; he opened the first
+hospital known in that quarter; he established a regular post-route, with
+forty offices; he made important geographical discoveries in the basin
+of the Albert Nyanza Lake, and in many ways demonstrated his capacity
+for governing barbarous races by the methods and standards of European
+civilization.</p>
+
+<p>Murder, war and slavery were made things of the past, so that at last
+“the whole country became so safe that only for the wild
+beasts<!--149.png--><span class="pagenum">144</span>
+in the
+thickets, a man could have gone from one end of the province to the
+other, armed with nothing more than a walking-stick.” A German writer
+said of him at the time: “In his capital, Lado, where Dr. Schnitzer
+earlier resided, he arose every day before the sun. His first work was to
+visit the hospitals and care for the health of the people and the troops.
+After a day devoted to executive labors, a great part of the night would
+be spent in writing those essays on anthropology, ethnology, geography,
+botany, and the languages of the people dwelling in his province which
+have made his name famous as a scientific explorer.”</p>
+
+<p>Tn 1885 Emin had ten fortified stations along the Upper Nile, the most
+northern one being Lado, and the most southern one Wadelai. The latter
+place he made his capital for some time. His command at Wadelai then
+consisted of 1500 soldiers, ten Egyptians and fifteen negro officers. The
+rest were at the various stations on the Nile. He had ammunition to hold
+out until the end of 1886, and longer, he wrote, “if the wild tribes did
+not make the discovery that he would be then entirely out of it.” In 1887
+he wrote: “I am still holding out, and will not forsake my people.” After
+that, letters were received from him in which he described his position
+as hopeful. In one of the last of these letters he wrote:</p>
+
+<p>“The work that Gordon paid for with his blood I will strive to carry
+on according to his intentions and his spirit. For twelve long years I
+have striven and toiled and sown the seeds for future harvests, laid the
+foundation stones for future buildings. Shall I now give up the work
+because a way may soon open to the coast? Never!”</p>
+
+<p>The successes of the Mahdi had isolated him entirely on the north. To
+the west and south were powerful tribes which, though not unfriendly,
+could offer him no avenue of escape. To the east were still more powerful
+peoples, once friendly but now imbued with the Mahdi’s hatred of white
+men and their commercial and political objects. Chief of these were the
+Uganda, whose King, Mtesa, had died in 1884, and had been succeeded
+by his son Mwanga, a thorough Mahdist and bitter against European
+innovation. Emin was therefore a prisoner. This was known in Europe in
+1886, but how critical his situation was, no one could tell. It was
+natural to regard it
+as<!--151.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span>
+perilous, and it was hoped that the Egyptian
+Government would take measures for his relief. The Cairo Government did
+nothing except to give him the title of Pasha and to offer &pound;10,000 to any
+expedition that might be sent to him. Many relief expeditions were then
+planned, but nothing came of them till the one at whose head Stanley was
+placed took shape.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_145.jpg" width="600" height="397"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NIAM-NIAM VILLAGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Where should such an expedition go? What should it do? It did not take
+long for the “wizard of equatorial travel” to decide. Here might be
+opened a whole volume of controversy as to whether Stanley’s mission in
+search of Emin was really humanitarian or not. The Germans who had the
+greatest interest in the safety of their fellow countryman, refused to
+look on the expedition as other than a scheme to rid the Southern Soudan
+of a Teutonic ruler in the interest of England. They regarded Emin as
+abundantly able to take care of himself for an indefinite time, and
+the event of his withdrawal as amounting to a confession that Germanic
+sovereignty was at an end in the lake regions of Central Africa. It
+cannot be ascertained now that Stanley entered upon the expedition for
+the relief of Emin Pasha in other than a humanitarian spirit, though
+he was backed by English capital. It is fair to presume that since he
+was invited to the ordeal by the Belgian King, whose exchequer was
+responsible for the greater part of the outlay, he went with perfectly
+disinterested motives. But be that as it may, he felt the delicacy of his
+task and, after having discovered the lost one, his interviews with him
+are models of diplomatic modesty and patience.</p>
+
+<p>On being placed in charge of the expedition by its projectors, Stanley
+naturally chose the Congo route into the heart of Africa, because he was
+familiar with it by his recent efforts to found the Congo Free State,
+and because it would give him a chance to review and refresh his labors
+in that behalf. If all things were as he had left them, he knew that a
+water-way traversable by steam was open for him to a point on the Congo
+opposite the habitation of Emin and distant but a few hundred miles. So
+May 11, 1887, found Stanley on the west coast of Africa ready to start
+inland. He did not collect his force and equipments at the mouth of the
+Congo, but made his way around the cataracts to Stanley Pool. There, at
+the station called Kinchassa everything was gathered for the
+up-river<!--152.png--><span class="pagenum">147</span>
+journey. Thence, the expedition embarked in three steamers, Le Stanley,
+the large stern-wheeler belonging to the Congo Free State, towing the
+Florida which had just been put together by sections. Le Stanley and
+Florida had on board about 300 men, mostly trained and armed natives,
+among whom were four English officers and several scientific gentlemen,
+besides a cargo of ammunition, merchandise and pack animals. The next
+steamer was the Henry Reid, a launch belonging to the American Baptist
+Missionary Union, and kindly loaned to Stanley for the purpose of
+transporting part of his force and equipments from Stanley Pool to his
+proposed camp on the Aruwimi. The other steamer was the Peace, placed at
+Stanley’s disposal by the Rev. Holman Bentley, of the English Baptist
+Missionary Society, and of which a young missionary named Whitely had
+charge.</p>
+
+<p>On their passage up the Congo, and after a sail of ten days a camp was
+formed at Bolobo, and left in charge of Captain Ward, who was deemed
+a proper person for the command on account of his previous knowledge
+of the natives, always inclined to be more or less hostile at that
+point. Captain Ward had met Stanley below Stanley Pool and while he was
+performing his tedious journey around the cataracts. He thus describes
+the expedition on its march at the time of the meeting.</p>
+
+<p>In the front of Stanley’s line was a tall Soudanese warrior bearing the
+Gordon Bennett yacht flag. Behind the soldier, and astride a magnificent
+mule, came the great explorer. Following immediately in his rear were
+his personal servants, Somalis, with their braided waistcoats and
+white robes. Then came Zanzibaris with their blankets, water-bottles,
+ammunition-belts and guns; stalwart Soudanese soldiery, with great
+hooded coats, their rifles on their backs, and innumerable straps and
+leather belts around their bodies; Wagawali porters, bearing boxes of
+ammunition, to which were fastened axes, shovels and hose lines, as well
+as their little bundles of clothing, which were invariably rolled up in
+old threadbare blankets. At one point the whale-boat was being carried
+in sections, suspended from poles, which were each borne by four men.
+Donkeys laden with sacks of rice were next met, and a little further back
+were the women of Tippoo Tib’s harem, their faces concealed
+and<!--154.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">149</a></span>
+their
+bodies draped in gaudily-colored clothes. Here and there was an English
+officer. A flock of goats next came along, and then the form of Tippoo
+Tib came into view as he strutted majestically along in his flowing Arab
+robes and large turban, carrying over his right shoulder a jewel-hilted
+sword, the emblem of office from the Sultan of Zanzibar. Behind him
+followed several Arab sheiks, whose bearing was quiet and dignified.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_148.jpg" width="600" height="352"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">CUTTING WOOD AT NIGHT FOR THE STEAMERS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It was not the intention to hurry over the long stretch of water between
+Stanley Pool and the Aruwimi, but to make the trip by easy stages. Yet
+it was a trip involving great labor, for there being no coal, and the
+steamers being small, the work of wood-cutting had to be done every
+night. The launches required as much wood for twelve hours steaming as
+thirty or forty men, laboring at night, could cut with their axes and
+cross-cut saws. In some portions of the upper Congo where the shores are
+swampy for miles in width, the men were often compelled to wade these
+long distances before striking the rising forest land, and of course they
+had to carry the wood back to the steamers over the same tedious and
+dangerous routes.</p>
+
+<p>As has been stated, Stanley’s objective was the mouth of the large river
+Aruwimi, which enters the Congo, a short distance below Stanley Falls, in
+Lat. 1&deg; N., and whose general westward direction led him to think that by
+following it he would get within easy marches of Lake Albert Nyanza and
+thus into Emin’s dominions.</p>
+
+<p>On the arrival of the expedition at the mouth of the Aruwimi, an armed
+camp was formed at Yambungi and left in charge of the unfortunate Major
+Barttelot, and here a conference was awaited with the dual-hearted Arab,
+Tippoo Tib, whom Stanley had recognized as ruler at Nyangwe, on the
+Congo, above Stanley Falls, and who was bound to him by the most solemn
+treaties. The wily chieftain came up in due time, and the interview
+was such as to engender serious doubts of his further friendship,
+notwithstanding his protestations.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 573px;">
+<img src="images/i_150.jpg" width="573" height="357"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">INTERVIEW OF MAJOR BARTTELOT AND MR. JAMESON WITH
+TIPPOO TIB.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The occasion was a palaver, at the request of Major Barttelot, with a
+view to obtain some definite understanding as to the providing of the
+Manyema porters whom Tippoo Tib had promised Stanley he would supply in
+order that the rearguard might
+follow<!--156.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">151</a></span>
+him up from the Aruwimi River to
+Wadelai. How the porters did not come up to time; how the commander of
+the rearguard was hampered with new conditions as to weight when the men
+did appear; and how the dreadful business ended in the assassination of
+Major Barttelot and the breaking up of the camp, will appear further
+on. The death of Mr. Jameson soon afterwards, at Ward’s Camp, on the
+Congo, a distressing sequel to the former tragedy, was in somber tone
+with the reports of Stanley’s death which came filtering through the
+darkness at about the same time. The cloud which fell upon the Aruwimi
+camp seemed to spread its dark mantle over the entire expedition. Mr.
+Werner, in his interesting volume “A Visit to Stanley’s Rear Guard,”
+gives a characteristic sketch of the Arab chief; and Mr. Werner was the
+engineer in charge of the vessel which took Major Barttelot part of the
+way on his last journey to the Falls. “After the light complexion of the
+other Arabs,” he says, “I was somewhat surprised to find Mr. Tippoo Tib
+as black as any negro I had seen; but he had a fine well-shaped head,
+bald at the top, and a short, black, thick beard thickly strewn with
+white hairs. He was dressed in the usual Arab style, but more simply
+than the rest of the Arab chiefs, and had a broad, well-formed figure.
+His restless eyes gave him a great resemblance to the negro’s head with
+blinking eyes in the electric advertisements of somebody’s shoe polish
+which adorned the walls of railway-stations some years ago&mdash;and earned
+him the nickname of ‘Nubian blacking.’”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_152.jpg" width="600" height="345"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AN AMBUSCADE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In June, 1887, Stanley started on his ascent of the unknown Aruwimi,
+and through a country filled with natives prejudiced against him by the
+Arab traders and friends of the Mahdi. His force now comprised 5 white
+men and 380 armed natives. His journey proved tedious and perilous in
+the extreme, and though he persevered in the midst of obstacles for two
+months, he was still 400 miles from Albert Nyanza. It was now found that
+the river route was impracticable for the heavier boats. At this point
+their troubles thickened. The natives proved hostile, and ingenious in
+their means of opposing obstructions to the further progress of the
+expedition. They refused to contribute provisions, and starvation stared
+the travelers in the face. For weeks their only food was wild
+fruit<!--158.png--><span class="pagenum">153</span>
+and
+nuts. To forage was to invite death, and to engage in open war was to
+court annihilation. Disease broke out, and it must have swept them all
+away but for the precautions which Stanley took to head off its ravages.
+As it was, the number was greatly reduced, and the men were weak,
+emaciated, in a state of panic, amid surrounding dangers and without
+spirit for further trials. Writing of this critical period, his letters
+say:</p>
+
+<p>“What can you make of this, for instance? On August 17, 1887, all the
+officers of the rear column are united at Yambuya. They have my letter
+of instructions before them, but instead of preparing for the morrow’s
+march, to follow our track, they decide to wait at Yambuya, which
+decision initiates the most awful season any community of men ever
+endured in Africa or elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p>“The results are that three-quarters of their force die of slow poison.
+Their commander is murdered and the second officer dies soon after of
+sickness and grief. Another officer is wasted to a skeleton and obliged
+to return home. A fourth is sent to wander aimlessly up and down the
+Congo, and the survivor is found in such a fearful pest-hole that we dare
+not describe its horrors.</p>
+
+<p>“On the same date, 150 miles away, the officer of the day leads 333
+men of the advance column into the bush, loses the path and all
+consciousness of his whereabouts, and every step he takes only leads him
+further astray. His people become frantic; his white companions, vexed
+and irritated by the sense of the evil around them, cannot devise any
+expedient to relieve him. They are surrounded by cannibals and poison
+tipped arrows thin their numbers.</p>
+
+<p>“Meantime I, in command of the river column, am anxiously searching up
+and down the river in four different directions; through forests my
+scouts are seeking for them, but not until the sixth day was I successful
+in finding them.”</p>
+
+<p>Having now brought his different marching columns closer together, and
+loaded his sick in light canoes, he started on, intercepted continually
+by wild native raiders who inflicted considerable loss on his best men,
+who had to bear the brunt of fighting as well as the fatigue of paddling.
+Soon progress by the river became too tedious and difficult, and orders
+were given to cast off the
+canoes.<!--159.png--><span class="pagenum">154</span>
+The land course now lay along the
+north bank of the Itura, amid dense forests, and through the despoiled
+lands which had been a stamping ground for Ugarrowa and Kilingalango
+raiders. No grass land, with visions of beef, mutton and vegetables, were
+within a hundred miles of the dismal scene.</p>
+
+<p>For two weeks the expedition threaded the unknown tangle, looking out
+for ambuscades, warding off attacks, and braving dangers of every
+description. At length the region of the Dwaris was reached and a
+plantain patch burst into view. The hungry wayfarers plunged into it and
+regaled themselves with the roasted fruit, while the more thoughtful
+provided a store of plantain flour for the dreaded wilderness ahead.
+Another plunge was made into the trackless forest and ten days elapsed
+before another plantation was reached, during which time the small-pox
+broke out, with greater loss of life than any other enemy had as yet
+inflicted. Meanwhile they had passed the mouth of the Ihuru, a large
+tributary of the Itura, and were on the banks of the Ishuru. As there
+was no possibility of crossing this turbulent tributary, its right bank
+was followed for four days till the principal village of the Andikuma
+tribe was reached. It was surrounded by the finest plantation of
+bananas and plantains, which all the Manyemas’ habit of spoliation and
+destruction had been unable to destroy. There the travelers, after severe
+starvation during fourteen days, gorged themselves to such excess that it
+contributed greatly to lessen their numbers. Every twentieth individual
+suffered from some complaint which entirely incapacitated him for duty.</p>
+
+<p>From Andikuma, a six days’ march northerly brought them to a flourishing
+settlement, called Indeman. Here Stanley was utterly nonplussed by the
+confusion of river names. The natives were dwarfs. After capturing some
+of them and forcing answers, he found that they were on the right branch
+of the Ihuru river and that it could be bridged. Throwing a bridge
+across, they passed into a region wholly inhabited by dwarfs who proved
+very hostile. They are the Wambutti people, and such were their number
+and ferocity that Stanley was forced to change his north-east into a
+south-east course and to follow the lead of elephant tracks.</p>
+
+<p><!--160.png--><span class="pagenum">155</span></p>
+
+<p>They had now to pass through the most terrible of all their African
+experiences. Writing further of this trying ordeal, Stanley says:</p>
+
+<p>“On the fifth day, having distributed all the stock of flour in camp,
+and having killed the only goat we possessed, I was compelled to open
+the officers’ provision boxes and take a pound pot of butter, with two
+cupfuls of my flour, to make an imitation gruel, there being nothing
+else save tea, coffee, sugar, and a pot of sage in the boxes. In the
+afternoon a boy died, and the condition of the majority of the rest was
+most disheartening. Some could not stand, falling down in the effort to
+do so. These constant sights acted on my nerves until I began to feel not
+only moral but physical sympathy, as though the weakness was contagious.
+Before night a Madi carrier died. The last of our Somalis gave signs
+of collapse, and the few Soudanese with us were scarcely able to move.
+When the morning of the sixth day dawned, we made broth with the usual
+pot of butter, an abundance of water, a pot of condensed milk, and a
+cupful of flour for 130 people. The chiefs and Bonny were called to a
+council. At my suggesting a reverse to the foragers of such a nature
+as to exclude our men from returning with news of the disaster, they
+were altogether unable to comprehend such a possibility. They believed
+it possible that these 150 men were searching for food, without which
+they would not return. They were then asked to consider the supposition
+that they were five days searching food, and they had lost the road,
+perhaps, or, having no white leader, had scattered to shoot goats, and
+had entirely forgotten their starving friends and brothers in the camp.
+What would be the state of the 130 people five days hence? Bonny offered
+to stay with ten men in the camp if I provided ten days’ food for each
+person, while I would set out to search for the missing men. Food to make
+a light cupful of gruel for ten men for ten days was not difficult to
+procure, but the sick and feeble remaining must starve unless I met with
+good fortune; and accordingly a stone of buttermilk, flour, and biscuits
+were prepared and handed over to the charge of Bonny. In the afternoon
+of the seventh day we mustered everybody, besides the garrison of the
+camp, ten men. Sadi, a Manyema chief, surrendered fourteen of his men to
+their
+doom.<!--162.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span>
+Kibboboras, another chief, abandoned his brother; and Fundi,
+another Manyema chief, left one of his wives and her little boy. We left
+twenty-six feeble and sick wretches already past all hope unless food
+could be brought them within twenty-four hours. In a cheery tone, though
+my heart was never heavier, I told the forty-three hunger-bitten people
+that I was going back to hunt for the missing men. We traveled nine miles
+that afternoon, having passed several dead people on the road, and early
+on the eighth day of their absence from camp we met them marching in
+an easy fashion, but when we were met the pace was altered, so that in
+twenty-six hours from leaving Starvation Camp we were back with a cheery
+abundance around us of gruel and porridge, boiling bananas, boiling
+plantains, roasting meat, and simmering soup. This had been my nearest
+approach to absolute starvation in all my African experience. Altogether
+twenty-one persons succumbed in this dreadful camp.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_156.jpg" width="600" height="371"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ELEPHANTS DESTROYING VEGETATION.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>After twelve days journey the party on November 12th, reached Ibwiri. The
+Arab devastation, which had reached within a few miles of Ibwiri, was so
+thorough that not a native hut was left standing between Urgarrava and
+Ibwiri. What the Arabs did not destroy the elephants destroyed, turning
+the whole region into a horrible wilderness.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley continues:&mdash;“Our sufferings terminated at Ibwiri. We were beyond
+the reach of destroyers. We were on virgin soil, in a populous region,
+abounding with food. We, ourselves, were mere skeletons&mdash;reduced in
+number from 289 to but little more than half that number. Hitherto our
+people were skeptical of what we told them. The suffering had been so
+awful, the calamities so numerous, and the forests so endless, that they
+refused to believe that by and by we would see plains and cattle, the
+Nyanza, and Emin Pasha. They had turned a deaf ear to our prayers and
+entreaties for, driven by hunger and suffering, they sold their rifles
+and equipments for ears of Indian corn, deserted with their ammunition
+and became generally demoralized. Perceiving that mild punishment would
+be of no avail, I resorted to the death penalty, and two of the worst
+cases were hanged in the presence of all. We halted 13 days at Ibwiri,
+revelling on fowls, goats, bananas, corn, yams, etc.
+The<!--164.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">159</a></span>
+supplies were
+inexhaustible and our people glutted themselves with such effect that
+our force increased to 173 sleek robust men&mdash;one had been killed with an
+arrow.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_158.jpg" width="600" height="376"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE CAPTURED BUFFALO.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 575px;">
+<img src="images/i_159.jpg" width="575" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AFRICAN WARRIORS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On November 24th the expedition started for Albert Nyanza, 126 miles
+distant. Given food, the distance seemed nothing. On December 1st an open
+country was sighted from the top of a ridge which was named Mt. Pisgah.
+On the 5th the plains were reached and the deadly, gloomy forest left
+behind. The light of day now beamed all around, after 160 days of travel.
+They thought they had
+never<!--166.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">161</a></span>
+seen grass so green or a country so lovely.
+The men could not contain themselves but leaped and yelled for joy, and
+even raced over the ground with their heavy burdens.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_160.jpg" width="600" height="380"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ATTACK ON THE ENCAMPMENT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On Nov. 9, 1887, Stanley says, “We entered the country of the powerful
+Chief Mazamboni. The villages were scattered so thickly that no road
+except through them could be found. The natives sighted us, but we were
+prepared. We seized a hill as soon as we arrived in the center of a
+mass of villages, and built a zareba as fast as billhooks could cut the
+brushwood. The war cries were terrible from hill to hill, pealing across
+the intervening valleys. The people gathered in hundreds at every point,
+war horns and drums announcing the struggle. After a slight skirmish,
+ending in our capture of a cow, the first beef we had tasted since we
+left the ocean, the night passed peacefully, both sides preparing for the
+morrow.</p>
+
+<p>“Here Mr. Stanley narrates how negotiations with natives failed,
+Mazamboni declining a peace offering, and how a detachment of 40 persons,
+led by Lieutenant Stairs, and another of 30, under command of Mr.
+Jephson, with sharpshooters, left the zareba and assaulted and carried
+the villages, driving the natives into a general rout. The march was
+resumed on the 12th and here were constant little fights.</p>
+
+<p>“On the afternoon of the 13th,” says Mr. Stanley, “we sighted the Nyanza,
+with Kavalli, the objective point of the expedition. Six miles off I had
+told the men to prepare to see the Nyanza. They murmured and doubted,
+saying, “Why does the master continually talk this way? Nyanza indeed.”
+When they saw the Nyanza below them, many came to kiss my hands. We were
+now at an altitude of 5,200 feet above the sea, with the Albert Nyanza
+2,900 feet below, in one degree twenty minutes. The south end of the
+Nyanza lay largely mapped for about six miles south of this position and
+right across to the eastern shore. Every dent in its low, flat shore
+was visible, and traced like a silver snake on the dark ground was the
+tributary Lanilki, flowing into the Albert Nyanza from the south-west.</p>
+
+<p>“After a short halt to enjoy the prospect, we commenced the rugged and
+stony descent. Before the rear guard had descended 100 feet the natives
+from the plateau poured after them, keeping the rear guard busy until
+within a few hundred feet of the Nyanza
+plain.<!--167.png--><span class="pagenum">162</span>
+We camped at the foot of
+the plateau wall, the aneroids reading 2,500 feet above the sea level. A
+night attack was made, but the sentries sufficed to drive our assailants
+off.</p>
+
+<p>“We afterwards approached the village of Kakongo, situated at the
+south-west corner of Albert Lake. Three hours were spent by us in
+attempting to make friends, but we signally failed. They would not allow
+us to go to the lake, because we might frighten their cattle. They
+would not exchange the blood of brotherhood, because they never heard
+of any good people coming from the west side of the lake. They would
+not accept any present from us, because they did not know who we were;
+but they would give us water to drink, and would show us the road up to
+Nyam-Sassi. From these singular people we learned that they had heard
+that there was a white man at Unyoro, but they had never heard of any
+white men being on the west side, nor had they ever seen any steamers
+on the lake. There was no excuse for quarrelling. The people were civil
+enough, but they did not want us near them. We therefore were shown the
+path and followed it for miles. We camped about half a mile from the
+lake, and then began to consider our position with the light thrown upon
+it by conversation with the Kakongo natives.”</p>
+
+<p>But, now he was in more of a quandary than ever. The lake was before
+him, but no sign of Emin nor any of his officials. Could he have failed
+to hear of Stanley’s sacrifices in his behalf? The famished expedition
+looked in vain on that expanse of water for evidence of friendly flag or
+welcome steamer. It had left all its own boats behind, a distance of 190
+miles, and was therefore helpless for further search. This should not be,
+and so with his accustomed heroism, Stanley resolved on a return march to
+Kilinga for boats. It was a hard, quick journey, occupying weeks, for the
+distance was great.</p>
+
+<p>Writing of his fatigue and disappointment on his arrival at Lake Albert
+Nyanza, Stanley says:</p>
+
+<p>“My couriers from Zanzibar had evidently not arrived, or Emin Pasha,
+with his two steamers, would have paid the south-west side of the lake a
+visit to prepare the natives for our coming. My boat was at Kilingalonga,
+190 miles distant, and there was no
+canoe<!--168.png--><span class="pagenum">163</span>
+obtainable. To seize a canoe
+without the excuse of a quarrel, my conscience would not permit. There
+was no tree anywhere of a size sufficient to make canoes. Wadelai was
+a terrible distance off for an expedition so reduced. We had used five
+cases of cartridges in five days fighting on the plain.</p>
+
+<p>“A month of such fighting must exhaust our stock. There was no plan
+suggested that was feasible, except to retreat to Ibwiri, build a fort,
+send the party back to Kalingalonga for a boat, store up every load in
+the fort not conveyable, leave a garrison in the fort to hold it, march
+back to Albert Lake, and send a boat in search of Emin Pasha. This was
+the plan which, after lengthy discussions with the officers, I resolved
+upon.”</p>
+
+<p>The most pathetic part of this eventful history is the fact that Emin
+had really received Stanley’s messages, had been surprised at his coming
+to rescue him, and had made an effort to meet him on some likely point
+on the lake, but having failed had returned to his southern capital,
+Wadelai, on the Nile outlet of the lake.</p>
+
+<p>During the time so spent by the expedition the outside world was filled
+with rumors of the death of Stanley, either by disease or at the hands
+of the natives. These reports would always be followed by some favorable
+report from the expedition, not authentic, but enough to give hope
+that the hardy explorers were safe and continuing their way across the
+continent. Occasionally, too, during the first part of the trip, couriers
+would arrive at the coast from Stanley announcing progress, but, as they
+advanced, no further communications were received, and the expedition was
+swallowed up in the jungles and vast forests of Central Africa.</p>
+
+<p>Putting his plans for a return into execution, Stanley had to fight
+his way from the shores of the lake to the top of the plateau, for the
+Kakongo natives were determined he should not pass back the way he had
+come. He was victorious with a loss of one man killed and one wounded.
+The plateau gained, he plunged westward by forced marches, and by
+January 7, 1888, was back at Ibwiri. After a few days rest there, he
+dispatched Lieut. Stairs with 100 men to Kilinga to bring up the boats.
+On his return with the boats, he was sent to Ugarrowas to bring up the
+convalescents. Stanley now fell sick and only recovered after a month of
+careful nursing.</p>
+
+<p><!--169.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">164</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It was now April 2d, and he again started for the lake, accompanied by
+Jephson and Parke, Nelson being left in command at the post, now Fort
+Bodo, with a garrison of 43 men. On April 26, he was again in Mazamboni’s
+country, who, after much solicitation was induced to make blood
+brotherhood with Stanley. Strange to say every other chief as far as the
+lake followed his example, and every difficulty was removed. Food was
+supplied in abundance and gratis, and the gracious natives, expert in the
+art of hut building, prepared in advance the necessary shelter for night.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_164.jpg" width="600" height="488"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">BEGINNING A HUT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>When within a day’s march of the lake, natives came up from Kavalli
+saying that a white man had given their chief a note done up in a black
+packet and that they would lead Stanley to him if he would follow. He
+replied, “he would not only follow but make them rich,” for he did not
+doubt that the white man was Emin Pasha. The next day’s march brought
+them to Chief Kavalli, who handed Stanley a note from Emin Pasha done
+up in black American oil cloth. It was to the effect that as there had
+been a native rumor that a white man had been seen at the south end
+of<!--172.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">165</a></span>
+the lake, he (Emin) had gone thither in a steamer but had been unable to
+obtain reliable information. The note further begged Stanley to remain
+where he was till Emin could communicate with him.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_165b.jpg" width="600" height="408"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">STANLEY’S FIRST SIGHT OF EMIN’S STEAMER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_165.jpg" width="600" height="478"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE SECOND STAGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The next day, April 23d, Stanley sent Jephson with a strong force to
+take the boat of the expedition to Lake Nyanza. On the 26th the boat
+crew sited Mawa Station, the southernmost station in Emin’s boundaries.
+There Jephson was hospitably received by the Egyptian garrison. On April
+29th, Stanley and his party again reached the bivouac ground on the
+plateau overlooking the lake, where they had encamped before, and at 5
+<span class="smcapac">P.M.</span>, they sighted the Khedive steamer, seven miles away on the
+lake, steaming up towards them. By 7 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span>, the steamer arrived
+opposite the camp, and shortly afterwards, Emin Pasha, Signor Carati
+and Jephson came to Stanley’s head-quarters where they were heartily
+welcomed. The next day Stanley moved his camp to a better place, three
+miles above Nyamsassi, and Emin also moved his camp thither. The two
+leaders were together, in frequent consultation, till May 25th. The Pasha
+was surrounded by two battalions of regulars, besides a respectable force
+of irregulars, sailors, artisans, clerks and servants. How different, in
+many respects, was the situation from what Stanley expected!</p>
+
+<p><!--173.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">166</a></span></p>
+
+<p>He found Emin Pasha in the midst of plenty and unwilling to be rescued.
+He found his own forces jaded with travel, on the eve of starvation, and
+anxious to be rescued. He found, moreover, a prince in his own equatorial
+empire, who looked with jealous eyes on the relief expedition. In one
+of his (Emin’s) letters dated April 17, 1888, he declared that he had
+no intention to give up his work in Africa and had determined to await
+Stanley’s coming at Wadelai. In another letter he expressed himself
+very decidedly to the effect that he did not wish his province to come
+under English suzerainty. He was evidently of the opinion that the
+British Government in sending out Stanley had its eyes on his province
+with a view to eventually incorporating it with the Soudan, should the
+Anglo-Egyptians succeed in re-establishing authority at Khartoum. The
+same idea gradually forced itself to acceptance in Europe, and, as we
+know, the German Government later became no less anxious to get into
+communication with Emin in the hope of preventing him from making any
+arrangement with England.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_166.jpg" width="600" height="462"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">HUT COMPLETED IN AN HOUR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It was not therefore such a meeting as took place years before between
+Stanley and Livingstone, at Ujiji on the banks of Lake Tanganyika.</p>
+
+<p>Long interviews followed which did not impress Stanley with the fact
+that his expedition was to be a success, so far as getting Emin out of
+the country was concerned. “Altogether,” said
+Emin,<!--174.png--><span class="pagenum">167</span>
+“if I consent to go
+away from here we shall have 8000 people with us.” His principal desire
+seemed to be that Stanley should relieve him of about 100 of his Egyptian
+soldiers, with their women and children. He said he was extremely
+doubtful of the loyalty of the first and second battalions. It was this
+interview which Stanley announced to the world of civilization by way of
+the Congo route. The situation was most delicate. He could not urge upon
+the ruler of an empire to flee from his dominions, he could not even ask
+one who seemed to be in the midst of peace and plenty, to desert them
+for the hardships of a long journey to the coast. He could only impress
+on him in a modest way the objects of the expedition and the propriety
+of his taking advantage of its presence to effect an escape from dangers
+which were thickening every hour, and which must ere long take shape in a
+descent upon him by the ever increasing hordes of the Mahdi.</p>
+
+<p>These representations were of no avail and Stanley left him on May 25th,
+leaving with him Jephson and five of his carriers. In return Emin gave
+Stanley 105 of his regular Mahdi native porters. In fourteen days Stanley
+was back at Fort Bodo, where he found Captain Nelson and Lieut. Stairs.
+The latter had come up from Ugarrowas, twenty-two days after Stanley had
+set out for the lake, bringing along, alas! only 16 out of 56 men. All
+the rest had perished on the journey. Stairs brought along the news that
+Stanley’s 20 couriers, by whom he had sent word to Barttelot at Yambuna,
+had passed Ugarrowas on their way to their destination, on March 16th.
+Fort Bodo was in excellent condition on Stanley’s arrival, and enough
+ground had been placed under cultivation to insure a sufficient amount of
+corn for food.</p>
+
+<p>On June 16th he left Fort Bodo with 111 Zanzibaris and 101 of Emin’s
+Soudanese, for Kilonga, where he arrived on June 24th. Pushing on, he
+arrived at Ugarrowas on July 19th. While this backward journey was
+performed rapidly and without serious hindrance, it was to end in sorrow.
+Ugarrowas was found deserted, its occupants having gathered as much
+ivory as they could, and passed down the river in company with Stanley’s
+couriers. Stanley made haste to follow, and on August 10th came up with
+the Ugarrowa people in a flotilla of 57 canoes. His couriers, now reduced
+to 17
+in<!--175.png--><span class="pagenum">168</span>
+number, related awful stories of hair-breadth escapes and
+tragic scenes. Besides the three which had been slain, two were down with
+wounds, and all bore scars of arrow wounds.</p>
+
+<p>A week later they were all down to Bunalyla, where Stanley met his
+friend, Dr. Bonney, at the stockade, and inquired for Major Barttelot,
+who, it will be recollected, was left in charge of Stanley’s rear guard
+at Yambuna, with orders to secure food and carriers from Tippoo Tib.
+Stanley asked:</p>
+
+<p>“Well, my dear Bonney where’s the Major?”</p>
+
+<p>“He is dead, sir; shot by a Manyuema, about a month ago,” replied Bonney.</p>
+
+<p>“Good God,” I cried, “and Jamieson!”</p>
+
+<p>“He has gone to Stanley Falls to try to get more men from Tippoo Tib.”</p>
+
+<p>“And Troup?”</p>
+
+<p>“Troup has gone home invalided.”</p>
+
+<p>“Well, were is Ward?”</p>
+
+<p>“Ward is at Bangala.”</p>
+
+<p>“Heaven alive! Then you are the only one here?”</p>
+
+<p>“Yes, sir.”</p>
+
+<p>Without loss of further time, Stanley hastened down to Yambuna, only
+to find the sad story too, too, true. Barttelot and his entire caravan
+had been destroyed, and the officers left in charge of the station
+had fled panic stricken down the river with all the supplies of the
+station. Stanley complained greatly of this desertion, yet proceeded
+to do the best he could to re-provision the fort and recuperate his
+men. He remained long enough to study the situation, and it was sad
+in the extreme as it gradually unfolded in his mind. His governor of
+Stanley Falls and the Congo beyond, the Arab Tippoo Tib, was evidently
+working in the interest of the Mahdi, in violation of his oath and
+most solemn covenants. Though proof of his open hostility was wanting,
+Stanley strongly suspected him of conspiring to bring about the massacre
+of Barttelot’s caravan, in July, 1888, with a view of preventing his
+(Stanley’s) return to the Albert Nyanza. Evidence of a wide spread
+conspiracy to rid the entire equatorial section of its European occupants
+was also found in the fact that the destruction of Barttelot’s caravan
+ante-dated but
+a<!--177.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span>
+month the uprising in Emin Pasha’s provinces, the
+desertion of him by his army and his deposition from power and final
+imprisonment, the details of which are given hereafter.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_169.jpg" width="600" height="358"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">CAMP AT KINSHASSA, ON THE CONGO, WITH TIPPOO
+TIB’S HEADQUARTERS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Yet with these fierce fires of conspiracy crackling about him in the
+depths of the African forest, Stanley thought more of others than
+himself. He resolved to hasten back to the lake to rescue Emin from a
+danger which must by this time have become plain to him, even if it had
+not already crushed him. He worked his force by relays till the Ituri
+ferry was reached. Here he expected to hear from Emin. Disappointment
+increased his fears, and he resolved to rid himself of all incumbrance
+and resort to forced marches. He therefore established a camp at the
+Ituri ferry and left Stairs in command with 124 people. With the rest he
+forced his way across the plains, the natives being the same as those
+with which he had engaged in desperate conflict on previous journeys.
+But now they were quite changed in spirit, and instead of offering him
+opposition they were anxious to make blood brotherhood with him. They
+even constructed the huts of his camps, and brought food, fuel and water
+as soon as the sites were pitched upon.</p>
+
+<p>With all this kindness and sociability of the natives, not a word could
+be gathered from them of the state of affairs on the Albert Nyanza. At
+length, January 16, 1889, at a station called Gaviras, a message was
+received from Kavalli, on the south-west side of the lake. It was a
+letter from Jephson, with two confirmatory notes from Emin, and conveyed
+the startling intelligence, that a rebellion had broken out, in the
+previous August, in Emin’s dominions, and that the Pasha had been made
+a prisoner. The rebellion had been gotten up by some half dozen of the
+Egyptian officers, and had been augmented by the soldiers at Labor&eacute;,
+though those of other stations had remained faithful. Then the letter
+goes on to warn Stanley to be careful on his arrival at Kavalli, and
+continues in the following pitiful strain:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>“When the Pasha and I were on our way to Regaf two men&mdash;one an
+officer, Abdul Voal Effendi, and the other a clerk&mdash;went about
+and told the people they had seen you, and that you were only
+an adventurer, and had not come from Egypt; that the letters
+you had brought from the Khedive and Nubar were forgeries;
+that it was untrue Khartoum had fallen; and that the Pasha
+and you had made a plot to take them, their wives and their
+children out of the country and hand them over as slaves to the
+English. Such words in an ignorant, fanatical country like this
+acted like fire among the people, and the result was a general
+rebellion and we were made prisoners.</p>
+
+<p><!--178.png--><span class="pagenum">171</span></p>
+
+<p>“The rebels then collected the officers from the different
+stations and held a large meeting here to determine what
+measures they should take, and all those who did not join the
+movement were so insulted and abused that they were obliged for
+their own safety to acquiesce in what was done: The Pasha was
+deposed and those officers suspected of being friendly to him
+were removed from their posts, and those friendly to the rebels
+were put in their places. It was decided to take the Pasha as
+a prisoner to Regaf, and some of the worst rebels were even in
+for putting him in irons. But the officers were afraid to put
+their plans into execution, as the soldiers said they would
+never permit any one to lay a hand on him. Plans were also made
+to entrap you when you returned and strip you of all you had.</p>
+
+<p>“Things were in this condition when we were startled by the
+news that the Mahdi’s people had arrived at Lado with three
+steamers and nine sandals and nuggers, and had established
+themselves on the site of the old station. Omar Sali, their
+general, sent up three peacock dervishes with a letter to the
+Pasha demanding the instant surrender of the country. The rebel
+officers seized them and put them into prison, and decided on
+war. After a few days the Mahdists attacked and captured Regaf,
+killing five officers and numbers of soldiers and taking many
+women and children prisoners, and all the stores and ammunition
+in the station were lost.</p>
+
+<p>“The result of this was a general stampede of the people from
+the stations of Biddon Kirri and Muggi, who fled with their
+women and children to Labore, abandoning almost everything. At
+Kirri the ammunition was abandoned and was seized by natives.
+The Pasha reckons that the Mahdists number about 1500. The
+officers and a large number of soldiers have returned to Muggi
+and intend to make a stand against the Mahdists.</p>
+
+<p>“Our position here is extremely unpleasant, for since the
+rebellion all is chaos and confusion. There is no head and
+half-a-dozen conflicting orders are given every day, and no
+one obeys. The rebel officers are wholly unable to control the
+soldiers. The Boris have joined the Mahdists. If they come down
+here with a rush, nothing can save us. The officers are all
+frightened at what has taken place and are anxiously awaiting
+your arrival, and desire to leave the country with you, for
+they are now really persuaded that Khartoum has fallen, and
+that you have come from the Khedive. We are like rats in a
+trap. They will neither let us act nor retire, and I fear,
+unless you come very soon, you will be too late, and our fate
+will be like that of the rest of the garrisons of the Soudan.
+Had this rebellion not happened, the Pasha could have kept the
+Mahdists in check some time, but now he is powerless to act.</p>
+
+<p>“I would suggest, on your arrival at Kavallis, that you write
+a letter in Arabic to Shukri Aga, chief of the Mswa Station,
+telling him of your arrival, and telling him that you wished to
+see the Pasha and myself. Write also to the Pasha or myself,
+telling us what number of men you have with you. It would,
+perhaps, be better to write me, as a letter to him might be
+confiscated. Neither the Pasha nor myself think there is the
+slightest danger now of any attempt to capture you, for the
+people are now fully persuaded that you are come from Egypt,
+and they look to you to get them out of their difficulties.
+Still it would be well for you to make your camp strong. If we
+are not able to get out of the country, please remember me to
+my friends, etc. Yours faithfully, <span class="smcap">Jephson</span>.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>To this letter were appended two postscripts, the first dated November
+24th, 1888. It ran:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>“Shortly after I had written you, the soldiers were led by
+their officers to attempt to retake Regaf, but the Mahdists
+defended it, and killed six officers and a large number of
+soldiers. Among the officers killed were some of the Pasha’s
+worst enemies. The soldiers in all the stations were so
+panic-stricken and angry at what happened that they declared
+they would not attempt to fight unless the Pasha was set at
+liberty. So the rebel officers were obliged to free him and
+send him to Wadilai, where he is free to do as he pleases; but
+at present he has not resumed authority in the country. He
+is, I believe, by no means anxious to do so. We hope in a few
+days to be at Tunguru Station, on the lake, two days’ steamer
+from Nsabe, and I trust when we hear of your arrival that the
+Pasha himself will be able to come down with me to see you.
+We hear that the Mahdists sent steamers down to Khartoum for
+reinforcements. If so, they cannot be up here for another six
+weeks. If they come up here with reinforcements, it will be all
+up with us, for the soldiers will never stand against them, and
+it
+will<!--179.png--><span class="pagenum">172</span>
+be a mere walk-over. Every one is anxiously looking
+for your arrival, for the coming of the Mahdists has completely
+cowed them. We may just manage to get out if you do not come
+later than the end of December, but it is entirely impossible
+to foresee what will happen.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Jephson in a second postscript, dated December 18th, says:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>“Mogo, the messenger, not having started, I send a second
+postscript. We were not at Tunguru on November 25th. The
+Mahdists surrounded Duffle Station and besieged it for four
+days. The soldiers, of whom there were about 500, managed to
+repulse them, and they retired to Regaf, their headquarters,
+as they have sent down to Khartoum for reinforcements, and
+doubtless will attack again when strengthened. In our flight
+from Wadelai the officers requested me to destroy our boats
+and the advances. I therefore broke it up. Duffle is being
+renovated as fast as possible. The Pasha is unable to move hand
+or foot, as there is still a very strong party against him,
+and his officers no longer in immediate fear of the Mahdi. Do
+not on any account come down to us at my former camp on the
+lake near Kavalli Island, but make your camp at Kavalli, on the
+plateau above. Send a letter directly you arrive there, and
+as soon as we hear of your arrival I will come to you. Will
+not disguise facts from you that you will have a difficult and
+dangerous work before you in dealing with the Pasha’s people.
+I trust you will arrive before the Mahdists are reinforced,
+or our case will be desperate. Yours faithfully, (Signed)
+<span class="smcap">Jephson</span>.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Imagine the effect of such word as this on one who stood almost alone in
+the midst of a continent, without power to face the disciplined forces
+of the Mahdi, and with no open line of retreat. The best he could do for
+the moment was write an assuring letter and dispatch it to the Nyanza as
+quickly as possible, pushing on after it to Kavalli.</p>
+
+<p>With Stanley, to resolve was to act. He accordingly sent word to Jephson
+that he need have no anxiety on his (Stanley’s) account for he was in the
+midst of natives who were not only friendly but ready to fight for him;
+that on his arrival at Kavalli he would be in a condition to rescue Emin
+and his attendants; and that every inducement must be brought to bear on
+him to come southward on the lake with his command, if not still held
+prisoners.</p>
+
+<p>On Stanley’s arrival at Kavalli, he again wrote, under date of January
+18th, 1889. And this letter, together with those which followed, reveals
+a situation quite as embarrassing as the former one had been, for still
+Emin seemed to be unaware of his danger. Stanley’s letter read:</p>
+
+<p>“<span class="smcapac">KAVALLI</span>, January 18, 3 o’clock <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span>&mdash;My dear Jephson:
+I now send thirty rifles and three Kavalli men down to the lake with my
+letters with my urgent instructions that a canoe should be sent off and
+the bearers be rewarded. I may be able to stay longer than six days here,
+perhaps ten days. I will do my best to prolong my stay until you arrive
+without rupturing the peace.</p>
+
+<p><!--180.png--><span class="pagenum">173</span></p>
+
+<p>“Our people have a good store of beads and couriers cloth, and I notice
+that the natives trade very readily, which will assist Kavalli’s
+resources should he get uneasy under our prolonged visit. Should we get
+out of this trouble I am his most devoted servant and friend but if he
+hesitates again I shall be plunged in wonder and perplexity. I could save
+a dozen Pashas if they were willing to be saved. I would go on my knees
+and implore the Pasha to be sensible of his own case. He is wise enough
+in all things else, even for his own interests. Be kind and good to him
+for his many virtues, but do not you be drawn into the fatal fascination
+the Soudan territory seems to have for all Europeans in late years. As
+they touch its ground they seem to be drawn into a whirlpool which sucks
+them in and covers them with its waves. The only way to avoid it is to
+blindly, devotedly, and unquestioningly obey all orders from the outside.
+The Committee said:</p>
+
+<p>“Relieve Emin with this ammunition. If he wishes to come out the
+ammunition will enable to do so. If he elects to stay it will be of
+service to him. The Khedive said the same thing and added that if the
+Pasha and his officers wished to stay, they could do so on their own
+responsibility. Sir Evelin Baring said the same thing in clear, decided
+words, and here I am after 4,100 miles travel with the last instalment
+of relief. Let him who is authorized to take it, take it and come. I am
+ready to lend him all my strength and will assist him, but this time
+there must be no hesitation, but positive yea or nay, and home we go.
+Yours sincerely, <span class="smcap">Stanley</span>.”</p>
+
+<p>In the course of his correspondence Mr. Stanley says: “On February 6th
+Jephson arrived in the afternoon at our camp at Kavalli. I was startled
+to hear Jephson, in plain, undoubting words, say: “Sentiment is the
+Pasha’s worst enemy. No one keeps Emin back but Emin himself.” This is
+the summary of what Jephson learned during the nine months from May 25th,
+1888, to February 6th, 1889. I gathered sufficient from Jephson’s verbal
+report to conclude that during nine months neither the Pasha, Casati,
+nor any man in the province had arrived nearer any other conclusion than
+what was told us ten months before. However, the diversion in our favor
+created by the Mahdists’ invasion and the dreadful slaughter they made of
+all they met inspired us with hope that we could get a
+definite<!--181.png--><span class="pagenum">174</span>
+answer
+at last. Though Jephson could only reply: ‘I really can’t tell you what
+the Pasha means to do. He says he wishes to go away, but will not move.
+It is impossible to say what any man will do. Perhaps another advance
+by the Mahdists will send them all pell-mell towards you, to be again
+irresolute and requiring several weeks’ rest.’”</p>
+
+<p>Stanley next describes how he had already sent orders to mass the whole
+of his forces ready for contingencies. He also speaks of the suggestions
+he made to Emin as to the best means of joining him, insisting upon
+something definite, otherwise it would be his (Stanley’s) duty to destroy
+the ammunition and march homeward.</p>
+
+<p>It seems that Stanley’s letters were beginning to have weight with Emin,
+and that he was coming to think it cruel to subject his followers to
+further danger, whatever opinion he entertained of his own safety. So on
+the morning of February 13th, 1889, Stanley was rejoiced to receive in
+his camp on the plateau above Kavalli, at the hands of a native courier,
+a letter from Emin Pasha himself, which announced his arrival at Kavalli.
+But let the letter speak for itself:</p>
+
+<p>“Sir: In answer to your letter of the 7th inst., I have the honor to
+inform you that yesterday I arrived here with my two steamers, carrying
+a first lot of people desirous to leave this country under your escort.
+As soon as I have arranged for a cover for my people, the steamers have
+to start for Mswa Station to bring on another lot of people. Awaiting
+transport with me are some twelve officers, anxious to see you, and only
+forty soldiers. They have come under my orders to request you to give
+them some time to bring their brothers from Wadelai, and I promised them
+to do my best to assist them. Things having to some extent now changed,
+you will be able to make them undergo whatever conditions you see fit
+to impose upon them. To arrange these I shall start from here with
+officers for your camp, after having provided for the camp, and if you
+send carriers I could avail me of some of them. I hope sincerely that the
+great difficulties you had to undergo and the great sacrifices made by
+your expedition on its way to assist us may be rewarded by full success
+in bringing out my people. The wave of insanity which overran the country
+has subsided, and of such
+people<!--182.png--><span class="pagenum">175</span>
+as are now coming with me we may be
+sure. Permit me to express once more my cordial thanks for whatever you
+have done for us.</p>
+
+<p>“Yours, <span class="smcap">Emin</span>.”</p>
+
+<p>Thus the two heroes of African adventure came together on the west shore
+of the lake which marked the southern boundary of Emin Pasha’s influence.
+It was a trying meeting for both. Stanley was firm in his views and true
+to the objects of his mission. Emin was still divided between his desire
+to save all of his followers who were willing to go, and his sense of
+obligation to those who chose to remain behind. In a modified form his
+convictions, expressed in April, 1887, still held. He then said:</p>
+
+<p>“The work that Gordon paid for with his blood I will strive to carry on,
+if not with his energy and genius, still according to his intentions
+and in his spirit. When my lamented chief placed the government of this
+country in my hands, he wrote to me: “I appoint you for civilization
+and progress sake.” I have done my best to justify the trust he had in
+me, and that I have to some extent been successful and have won the
+confidence of the natives is proved by the fact that I and my handful
+of people have held our own up to the present day in the midst of
+hundreds of thousands of natives. I remain here as the last and only
+representative of Gordon’s staff. It therefore falls to me, and is my
+bounden duty, to follow up the road he showed us. Sooner or later a
+bright future must dawn for these countries; sooner or later these people
+will be drawn into the circle of the ever advancing civilized world.
+For twelve long years have I striven and toiled, and sown the seeds for
+future harvest&mdash;laid the foundation stones for future buildings. Shall I
+now give up the work because a way may soon open to the coast? never!”</p>
+
+<p>As if anticipating the end, Stanley had already begun to call in the
+detachments of his expedition. On February 18th Lieut. Stairs arrived
+at Kavalli with his strong column from the remote Ituri. Meanwhile
+negotiations were going on daily with Emin. The force he had brought
+up the lake consisted of himself, Selim Bey, seven other officers, and
+sixty-five people. Selim Bey became the spokesman for both Stanley
+and Emin. He had just achieved a victory over the Madhi’s forces by
+recapturing Duffle, killing 250 of the enemy and lifting the restraints
+from Emin, himself. At length,
+on<!--183.png--><span class="pagenum">176</span>
+February 18th, the date of the arrival
+of Lieut. Stairs, Selim, at the head of a deputation, announced to
+Stanley a request on the part of Emin that he (Stanley) allow all the
+equatorial troops and their families to assemble at Kavalli.</p>
+
+<p>In reply Stanley explained fully the object of his expedition, and
+offered to remain at Kavalli for a reasonable time in order to give
+Emin’s forces an opportunity to join him. Selim and his deputation
+retired satisfied, saying they would proceed at once to Wadelai and begin
+the work of transportation. They started on February 26th. On the 27th,
+Emin returned to Kavalli with his little daughter, Ferida, and a caravan
+of 144 men. He and Stanley agreed that twenty days would be a reasonable
+time in which to gather all the people and movables at Kavalli. These
+twenty days were necessary to Stanley’s comfort, too, for much sickness
+had prevailed among his forces, and now, under the ministrations of
+Surgeon Parke, his active force had been raised from 200 to 280 men.</p>
+
+<p>The refugees from Wadelai soon began to pour into Kavalli. They were a
+mixture of soldiers, their wives and children, loaded with promiscuous
+camp effects, most of which was practically rubbish, entailing great
+labor in handling, and nearly all of which would have to be abandoned on
+the subsequent march. Stanley saw the result of all this accumulation
+and on March 16th issued orders to stop bringing the stuff to his camp.
+But 1355 loads had already arrived, enough to embarrass the march of
+ten times such a force as was then in camp. At this time Stanley was
+gratified by a report from Selim announcing that the rebellious soldiers
+and officers at Wadelai, and all of the people there, were anxious to
+depart for Egypt under his escort. But while this was true of Wadelai, it
+was not true of Kavalli, for Stanley discovered a conspiracy among the
+promiscuous gathering there, which took the shape of a concerted attempt
+on the part of Emin’s Egyptian soldiers to steal the arms of Stanley’s
+Zanzibaris, and stir up general mutiny. Knowing that while Emin had been
+praised for personal bravery and at the same time condemned for laxity of
+discipline, and seeing that such a state of affairs would be fatal, both
+in getting a start and in prosecuting a long march, Stanley decided on
+immediate and resolute action. Forming his own men, armed with rifles,
+into a square on the
+plateau,<!--184.png--><span class="pagenum">177</span>
+he ordered all of the Pasha’s people
+into it. Those who refused to go, he arrested and forced in, or had
+them placed in irons and flogged. They were then questioned as to their
+knowledge of the conspiracy, but all denied having had anything to do
+with it. Then all who desired to accompany Stanley were asked by Emin to
+stand aside. They were told that the condition upon which they could go
+was that of perfect obedience to Stanley’s orders as their leader, and
+that extermination would speedily follow the discovery of any further
+tricks. They promised a most religious obedience. This muster revealed
+the fact that Emin’s followers numbered 600 people, necessitating the
+enlistment of 350 new carriers. The entire number now ready for the march
+was 1500 persons.</p>
+
+<p>But on May 7th, Stanley received an intercepted letter from Selim Bey
+which stated that the rebels at Wadelai had changed their mind, risen in
+mutiny, and robbed the loyal forces of all their ammunition. They also
+asked with the greatest effrontery that Stanley be called before them and
+questioned as to his future objects before they consented to go with him.
+The letter in addition contained hints of a plot to attack and capture
+his expedition in case he started without giving them satisfaction.
+Instantly Stanley assembled all the officers in his camp and asked them
+if they felt he would be justified in remaining there after April 10th.
+They all replied in the negative. Going to Emin, he said, “There Pasha,
+you have your answer. We march on the 10th.” Emin asked whether they
+could acquit him in their consciences for abandoning his people, alluding
+to those who had not yet arrived from Wadelai. Stanley replied that they
+could most certainly do so, as to all who had not arrived by the 10th.
+All of Stanley’s accounts of this part of his expedition bear evidence of
+trouble with Emin. He still trusted the rebellious soldiers, even those
+who had agreed to leave for Egypt. He mistrusted Stanley’s ability to
+reach Zanzibar with so numerous a caravan, on account of a lack of food.
+He had left many valuable servants behind, whom he desired to take along,
+but he said, “They are unwilling to accompany me.” This opened Stanley’s
+eyes. He says, “It now became clear that the Pasha had lost his authority
+at Wadelai, however obstinately he clung to his belief in his forces
+there.”</p>
+
+<p><!--185.png--><span class="pagenum">178</span></p>
+
+<p>May 10th came and Stanley started with his immense expedition for the
+sea, his objective being Zanzibar, on the east coast of Africa. He had
+promised Emin to march slowly for a few days in order to give Selim, with
+such servants and stragglers as he might bring along, an opportunity to
+overtake them, but he never saw them more. To pursue a route eastward
+from Albert Nyanza was impracticable, for the powerful Unyoro and Uganda
+tribes lay in that direction. These and other tribes had been infected
+with the Mahdi spirit, and would therefore prove hostile. He therefore
+chose a route in a southerly direction, till the extreme southern waters
+of Victoria Nyanza had been rounded, when he would be on the natural
+lines running from Zanzibar into the interior. Besides, this would bring
+him through nearly 400 miles of practically undiscovered country.</p>
+
+<p>Zanzibar, the objective point of the journey, is on an island of the same
+name, twenty miles from the east coast of Africa, and in latitude 6&deg;
+South. It is a Mohammedan town of 30,000 people, with many good houses
+and mosques. Though the soil is excellent and prolific of fruits and
+vegetables, the town depends for its prosperity on trade and commerce.
+When the slave trade was driven from the Atlantic coast of Africa, it
+found its way to the eastern, or Pacific coast, and flourished in a
+manner never before known. Zanzibar, always notorious as a slave depot,
+became the recognized headquarters of the horrid traffic, and rapidly
+rose to a position of great wealth and influence. Her slave market
+attracted the notice and excited the disgust and indignation of strangers
+of every creed and country. Nothing could be more revolting than sight
+of the Arabic purchasers of slaves examining the build, the eyes, the
+teeth, and all the physical qualities of the victims offered for sale
+in the marts. Tens of thousands of slaves were known to pass through
+Zanzibar annually on their way to various parts of Egypt and Turkey. On
+the appearance of British cruisers on the coast, with orders to capture
+and condemn all slave dhows, the Sultan of Turkey prohibited the traffic
+at Zanzibar. But this only diverted its course. The next step was to
+induce the Sultan to issue a general proclamation, prohibiting the trade
+in all places on the coast, under his authority. This was done in 1876.
+The result
+has<!--187.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">180</a></span>
+been a considerable diminution of the infamous traffic,
+which can now only be carried on by a system of smuggling, which incurs
+much risk. Zanzibar is the most important starting point for travelers
+and missionaries destined for Central Africa, and is a depot for such
+supplies as may be needed from time to time.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_179.jpg" width="600" height="364"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SLAVE MARKET.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>From every point of view his route was well chosen. Skirting the Unyoro
+country, he fell under their displeasure and became the victim of a
+fierce attack, which he parried successfully. This opened his way for a
+considerable distance along the ranges of mountains which pass under the
+general name of the Baleggas These mountains rise to the immense height
+of 18,000 to 19,000 feet, and their summits are capped with snow. The
+huts of the natives were visible on their sides at altitudes of 8,000
+feet. During their nineteen marches along the base of these ranges, their
+severest obstacle was the Semliki river, a bold stream, 100 yards wide,
+whose crossing was rendered doubly difficult by the Warasmas natives.
+They formed an ambuscade, from which they delivered a single volley at
+the travelers, but fortunately it proved ineffective. It did not take
+much of a demonstration to put them to flight.</p>
+
+<p>After a march of 113 days the southern waters of Victoria Nyanza were
+reached. From this point Stanley sent letters to the coast stating that
+his objective was now Mpwapwa, 230 miles inland, whither provisions
+should be sent. This was done, and an armed escort was furnished him by
+German officials thence to the coast, at Bagamoyo, opposite Zanzibar,
+where the expedition arrived about December 1, 1889. Thence steamer was
+taken to Zanzibar, where the hero of the expedition, together with Emin
+Pasha, and all the officials, were received with open arms, fetes and
+acclamations. Telegrams of congratulations poured in from crowned heads,
+and all parts of the world. A sample from Queen Victoria types them all.
+London, December 12th:</p>
+
+<p>“My thoughts are after you and your brave followers, whose hardships
+and dangers are at an end. I again congratulate you all, including
+the Zanzibaris, who displayed such devotion and fortitude during your
+marvelous expedition. I trust Emin Pasha is making favorable progress.”</p>
+
+<p><!--188.png--><span class="pagenum">181</span></p>
+
+<p>One drawback to all these exultations at Zanzibar was the fact that Emin
+Pasha, after escaping all the tribulations of the wilderness, had fallen
+from the piazza of his hotel at Bagamoyo, on December 5th, and received
+injuries of an alarming nature. The sad announcement of this clouded the
+occasion somewhat, and gave a tone of melancholy to what would have been
+unmixed gratulation.</p>
+
+<p>In reply to a cablegram from the Emperor of Germany, Stanley said,
+December 7th:</p>
+
+<p>“Imperator et rex. My expedition has now reached its end. I have had
+the honor to be hospitably entertained by Major Weismann and other of
+your Majesty’s officers under him. Since arriving from Mpwapwa our
+travels have come to a successful conclusion. We have been taken across
+from Bagamoyo to Zanzibar by your Majesty’s ships Sperber and Schwalbe,
+and all honors coupled with great affability, have been accorded
+us. I gratefully remember the hospitality and princely affability
+extended to me at Potsdam; and profoundly impressed with your Majesty’s
+condescension, kindness and gracious welcome. With a full and sincere
+heart I exclaim, long live the noble Emperor William.”</p>
+
+<p>And writing for the general public, he says:</p>
+
+<p>“Over and above the happy ending of our appointed duties, we have not
+been unfortunate in geographical discoveries. The Aruwimi is now known
+from its source to its bourne. The great Congo forest, covering as
+large an area as France and the Iberian Peninsula, we can now certify
+to be an absolute fact. The Mountains of the Moon this time, beyond the
+least doubt, have been located, and Ruwenzori, “The Cloud King” robed
+in eternal snow, has been seen and its flanks explored, and some of its
+shoulders ascended, Mounts Gordon Bennett and Mackinnon cones being but
+giant sentries warding off the approach to the inner area of ‘The Cloud
+King.’</p>
+
+<p>“On the south-east of the range the connection between Albert Edward
+Nyanza and the Albert Nyanza has been discovered, and the extent of
+the former lake is now known for the first time. Range after range of
+mountains has been traversed, separated by such tracts of pasture land as
+would make your cowboys out West mad with envy.</p>
+
+<p><!--189.png--><span class="pagenum">182</span></p>
+
+<p>“And right under the burning Equator we have fed on blackberries and
+bilberries, and quenched our thirst with crystal water fresh from snow
+beds. We have also been able to add nearly six thousand square miles of
+water to Victoria Nyanza.</p>
+
+<p>“This has certainly been the most extraordinary expedition I have ever
+led into Africa. A veritable divinity seems to have hedged us while we
+journeyed. I say it with all reverence. It has impelled us whither it
+would, effected its own will, but nevertheless guided and protected us.</p>
+
+<p>“I gave as much good will to my duties as the strictest honor would
+compel. My faith that the purity of my motive deserved success was firm,
+but I have been conscious that the issues of every effort were in other
+hands.</p>
+
+<p>“Not one officer who was with me will forget the miseries he has endured,
+yet everyone that started from his home destined to march with the
+advance column and share its wonderful adventures is here to-day, safe,
+sound and well.</p>
+
+<p>“This is not due to me. Lieutenant Stairs was pierced with a poisoned
+arrow like others, but others died and he lives. The poisoned tip came
+out from under his heart eighteen months after he was pierced. Jephson
+was four months a prisoner, with guards with loaded rifles around him.
+That they did not murder him is not due to me.</p>
+
+<p>“These officers have had to wade through as many as seventeen streams and
+broad expanses of mud and swamp in a day. They have endured a sun that
+scorched whatever it touched. A multitude of impediments have ruffled
+their tempers and harassed their hours.</p>
+
+<p>“They have been maddened with the agonies of fierce fevers. They have
+lived for months in an atmosphere that medical authority declared to
+be deadly. They have faced dangers every day, and their diet has been
+all through what legal serfs would have declared to be infamous and
+abominable, and yet they live.</p>
+
+<p>“This is not due to me any more than the courage with which they have
+borne all that was imposed upon them by their surroundings or the cheery
+energy which they bestowed to their work or the hopeful voices which rang
+in the ears of a deafening multitude of blacks and urged the poor souls
+on to their goal.</p>
+
+<p><!--190.png--><span class="pagenum">183</span></p>
+
+<p>“The vulgar will call it luck. Unbelievers will call it chance, but deep
+down in each heart remains the feeling, that of verity, there are more
+things in heaven and earth than are dreamed of in common philosophy.</p>
+
+<p>“I must be brief. Numbers of scenes crowd the memory.</p>
+
+<p>“Could one but sum them into a picture it would have grand interest. The
+uncomplaining heroism of our dark followers, the brave manhood latent in
+such uncouth disguise, the tenderness we have seen issuing from nameless
+entities, the great love animating the ignoble, the sacrifice made by
+the unfortunate for one more unfortunate, the reverence we have noted
+in barbarians, who, even as ourselves, were inspired with nobleness and
+incentives to duty&mdash;of all these we would speak if we could, but I must
+end with, thanks be to God forever and ever!”</p>
+
+<p>This letter is characteristic of Stanley. The hardships of his journey
+will fade from memory, but its successes will become historic. He has
+made the “Dark Continent” dark no longer. To him and his undaunted
+comrades the world owes a debt of gratitude it will be difficult to
+repay. The vast tracts of hitherto unknown wilderness through which
+he traveled will stimulate the enterprise of the pioneer, and the day
+is not far distant&mdash;within the lifetime of our children’s children,
+perhaps&mdash;when the shrill echo of the engine’s whistle will be heard on
+the rugged sides of snow capped mountains which Stanley has explored;
+when those illimitable forests will resound with the woodman’s axe, and
+when the law of commerce will change the tawny native from a savage into
+a self-respecting citizen. Barbarism will retire from its last stronghold
+on the planet, as the darkness disappears when the sun rises over the
+hilltops.</p>
+
+<p>The dire distresses of his long journey, begun two and a-half years ago,
+are beyond the reach of language. He merely hints at some of them and
+leaves the rest to the imagination. We ponder his pathetic references
+to the sturdy loyalty of companions and followers, “maddened with the
+agonies of fierce fevers,” falling into their graves through the subtle
+poison with which the natives tipped their arrows and spears, bravely
+fighting their way through interminable swamps only to succumb at last,
+and the
+conviction<!--191.png--><span class="pagenum">184</span>
+steals over us that such a story has never been told
+before and may never be told again. He rescued Emin and his comrades,
+who were “in daily expectation of their doom,” then turned his face
+southward, made various and important explorations on his way, and at
+last came within speaking distance of the millions who followed him from
+the hour he entered the mouth of the Congo with a solicitude which no
+other man of our time has commanded.</p>
+
+<p>It would not do to close any account of Stanley’s brilliant career
+without noting the fact that Emin Pasha, in one of his last published
+letters, written after he was beyond all danger from Mahdi vengeance and
+African climate, fully acknowledges the value of the aid sent him, and
+makes it clear that his hesitation at availing himself of it was due
+to that high sense of duty which had gained him the name of Emin, or
+the Faithful One. The last and most trusted of Gordon’s lieutenant’s,
+he regarded it as his “bounden duty” to follow up the road the General
+showed him; and it must have been a wrench to tear himself away from the
+life-work to which he had in a measure consecrated himself&mdash;to see the
+labors of years thrown away, and all his endeavors come to naught. But it
+could not be helped under the circumstances, and Emin, like many before
+him, has had to succumb to the force of fate. And so ends for the present
+the attempt to civilize the equatorial Provinces of Egypt. The ruler
+of Egypt has formally renounced them, Gordon is dead, and his trusted
+lieutenant has at last thrown up the sponge. It has been a strange and
+eventful story, in which the heroes have been of the race which has done
+so much for the regeneration of the dark places of the world. For a time
+the dark and turbid waves of ignorance, of slavery, and of cruelty will
+roll back over this part of the Dark Continent and pessimists will say
+that nothing more can be done. But it is only for a time. The day will
+surely come when the dreams of Gordon and of Emin will become actual
+realities; and when that time comes we may be sure that the name of Henry
+M. Stanley will be remembered and honored.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><!--192.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">185</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>
+EGYPT AND THE NILE.
+</h2>
+
+<p>The historic approach to “The Dark Continent” is by way of storied Egypt
+and its wonderful river, the Nile. In making this approach we must not
+forget the modern commercial value of the route from Zanzibar, pursued
+by Stanley (1871-72) while hastening to the rescue of Dr. Livingstone,
+the great English explorer, nor of that other, by way of the Congo, which
+bids fair to prove more direct and profitable than any thus far opened.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_185.jpg" width="600" height="511"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY AT UJIJI.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--193.png--><span class="pagenum">186</span></p>
+
+<p>It was an enterprise as bold as any of those undertaken by hardy mariners
+to rescue their brother sailors who had met shipwreck while striving
+to unfold the icy mysteries which surround the North Pole. And, unlike
+many of these, it was successful. The two great explorers shook hands
+in October 1871, at Ujiji, on the banks of Lake Tanganyika, in the very
+heart of the great forest and river system of Africa, and amid dark
+skinned, but not unkind, strangers, who constitute a native people as
+peculiar in all respects as their natural surroundings.</p>
+
+<p>We mention this because it was a great achievement in the name of
+humanity. Livingstone had started on this, his last, exploring tour in
+1866, and had been practically lost in African wilds for nearly four
+years. But it was a greater achievement in the name of science and
+civilization, for it not only proved that “The Dark Continent” was more
+easily traversable than had been supposed, but it may be set down as the
+beginning of a new era in African exploration.</p>
+
+<p>In all ages Africa has been a wonderland to the outside world. As the
+land of Cush, in Bible story, it was a mystery. It had no bounds, but was
+the unknown country off to the south of the world where dim legend had
+fixed the dark races to work out a destiny under the curse laid upon the
+unfortunate Ham.</p>
+
+<p>Even after Egypt took somewhat definite meaning and shape in Hebrew
+geography as “The Land of Mizriam,” or the “Land of Ham,” all else in
+Africa was known vaguely as Ethiopia, marvellous in extent, filled with
+a people whose color supported the Hamitic tradition, wonderful in
+animal, vegetable and mineral resources. Thence came Sheba’s queen to see
+the splendors of Solomon’s court, and thence emanated the long line of
+Candaces who rivalled Cleopatra in wealth and beauty and far surpassed
+her in moral and patriotic traits of character.</p>
+
+<p>In olden times the gateway to Africa was Egypt and the Nile. As an
+empire, history furnishes nothing so curious as Egypt; as a river nothing
+so interesting as her Nile. We may give to the civilization of China and
+India whatever date we please, yet that of Egypt will prove as old. And
+then what a difference in tracing it. That of China and India rests,
+with
+a<!--194.png--><span class="pagenum">187</span>
+few exceptions, on traditions or on broken crockery tablets
+and confused shreds of ruins. That of Egypt has a distinct tracery in
+monuments which have defied the years, each one of which is a book full
+of grand old stories. We can read to-day, by the light of huge pillar
+and queer hieroglyphic, back to Menes, the first Egyptian King, and to
+Abydos, the oldest Egyptian city, and though the period be 4500 years
+before Christ, scarcely a doubt arises about a leading fact. There was
+wealth then, art, civilization, empire, and one is ever tempted to
+ascribe to Egypt the motherhood of that civilization which the Hebrew,
+Indian, Etruscan, Persian, Roman, Greek and Christian, carved into other
+shapes.</p>
+
+<p>Says the learned Dr. Henry Brugsch-Bey, who has spent thirty years among
+Egyptian monuments and who has mastered their inscriptions, “Literature,
+the arts, and the ideas of morality and religion, so far as we know, had
+their birth in the Nile valley. The alphabet, if it was constructed in
+Phœnicia, was conceived in Egypt, or developed from Egyptian characters.
+Language, doubtless, is as old as man, but the visible symbols of
+speech were first formulated from the hieroglyphic figures. The early
+architecture of the Greeks, the Doric, is a development of the Egyptian.
+Their vases, ewers, jewelry and other ornaments, are copies from the
+household luxury of the Pharaohs.”</p>
+
+<p>The influence of Egypt on the Hebrew race has a profound interest for the
+whole Christian world. Let the time of Abraham be fixed at 1900 B.C. The
+Great Pyramid of Egypt, built by the first Pharaoh of the fourth dynasty,
+had then been standing for 1500 years. Egypt had a school of architecture
+and sculpture, a recorded literature, religious ceremonies, mathematics,
+astronomy, music, agriculture, scientific irrigation, the arts of war,
+ships, commerce, workers in gold, ivory, gems and glass, the appliances
+of luxury, the insignia of pride, the forms of government, the indices
+of law and justice, 2000 years before the “Father of the Faithful” was
+born, and longer still before the fierce Semitic tribes of the desert
+gave forth their Hebrew branch, and placed it in the track of authentic
+history.</p>
+
+<p>In the Bible we read of the “God of Abraham, and of Isaac, and of
+Jacob.” In the prayer of King Khunaten, dating
+long<!--195.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span>
+before any biblical
+writing, we find a clear recognition of one God, and a reaching out of
+the soul after him, embraced in a language without parallel for beauty of
+expression and grandeur of thought. Ages before the giving of the law on
+Sinai and the establishment of the Hebrew ceremonial worship, the “Book
+of the Dead,” with its high moral precepts, was in the possession of
+every educated Egyptian.</p>
+
+<p>The Jews went out of Egypt with a pure Semitic blood, but with a modified
+Semitic language. They carried with them in the person of their great
+leader, Moses, “all the wisdom of the Egyptians.” This is shown by
+their architecture, religious customs, vestments, persistent kindred
+traditions. Both Moses and Jesus were of the race whose early lessons
+were received with stripes from Egyptian masters. The hieroglyphical
+writings of Egypt contained the possibilities of Genesis, the Iliad, the
+Psalms, the &AElig;neid, the Inferno, and Paradise Lost. In the thought that
+planned the Hall of Columns upon the Nile, or sculptured the rock temple
+of Ammon, was involved the conception of Solomon’s Temple, the Parthenon,
+St. Peters, Westminster Abbey and every sacred fane of Europe and America.</p>
+
+<p>Therefore, travel and exploration in this wonderful land, the remote
+but undoubted source of letters, morals, sciences and arts, are always
+interesting. Thebes, Memphis, Zoan-Tanis, Pitom, Tini, Phil&aelig;, Bubastis,
+Abydos, are but as fragments of mighty monuments, yet each discloses
+a story abounding in rich realities and more striking in its historic
+varieties than ever mortal man composed. But for the powerful people that
+made the Nile valley glow with empire, but for the tasteful people that
+made it beautiful with cities and monuments, but for the cultured people
+that wrote on stone and papyrus, were given to costly ceremonies, and who
+dreamed of the one God, the Israelites would have recrossed the Isthmus
+of Suez, or the Red Sea, without those germs of civilization, without
+those notions of Jehovah, which made them peculiar among their desert
+brethren, and saved them from absorption by the hardy tribes of Arabia
+and Syria.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 432px;">
+<img src="images/i_189.jpg" width="432" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ROSETTA STONE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In going from Europe across the Mediterranean to Egypt,
+you<!--196.png--><span class="pagenum">189</span>
+may think
+you can sail directly into one of the mouths of the Nile, and ascend
+that stream till the first cataract calls a halt. But neither of the
+great mouths of the Nile give good harbors. Like those of our own
+Mississippi, they are narrow and exposed by reason of the deposits they
+continually carry to the sea. The two main mouths of the Nile&mdash;it has had
+several outlets in the course of time&mdash;are over a hundred miles apart.
+The<!--197.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">190</a></span>
+Western, or Rosetta, mouth was once the seat of a famed city from
+whose ruins were exhumed (1799) the historic “Rosetta Stone,” now in the
+British Museum. It was found on the site of a temple dedicated by Necho
+II. to Tum, “The Setting Sun;” and the inscription itself, written in
+three kinds of writing, Greek, hieroglyphic, and enchorial, or running
+hand, was a decree of the Egyptian Priests assembled in synod at Memphis
+in favor of Ptolomy Epiphanes, who had granted them some special favor.
+Its great value consisted in the fact that it afforded a safe key to the
+reading of the hieroglyphical writings found on all Egyptian monuments.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 371px;">
+<img src="images/i_190.jpg" width="371" height="450"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">M. DE LESSEPS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Eastern, or Damietta, mouth of the Nile gives a better harbor, but
+the boats are slow. Beyond this is Port Said, where you can enter the
+ship canal across the Isthmus of Suez and pass to the Red Sea. But you
+are not now in the
+Egypt<!--198.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">191</a></span>
+you seek. There are no verdant meadows and
+forests of date palms and mulberry, which give to the interior of Lower
+Egypt&mdash;covered with numerous villages and intersected by thousands of
+canals&mdash;the picturesque character of a real garden of God. You only see a
+vast sandy plain, stretching on either side of the canal. It is a sea of
+sand with here and there little islands of reeds or thorny plants, white
+with salty deposits. In spite of the blue sky, the angel of death has
+spread his wings over this vast solitude where the least sign of life is
+an event.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 268px;">
+<img src="images/i_191.jpg" width="268" height="300"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">CLEOPATRA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Speaking of canals, reminds one that this Suez Canal, 100 miles long,
+and built by M. de Lesseps, 1858-1869, was not the first to connect the
+waters of the Red Sea with the Mediterranean. One was projected B.C. 610
+by Pharaoh Necho, but not finished till the time of Ptolemy Philadelphus,
+which ran from the Red Sea to one of the arms of the Nile. It was
+practically out of use in the time of Cleopatra.</p>
+
+<p>The best Mediterranean port of Egypt is Alexandria, the glory of which
+has sadly departed. It is far to the west of the Rosetta mouth of the
+Nile, but is connected by rail with Cairo. Though founded 330 B.C., by
+Alexander the Great, conqueror of Egypt, as a commercial outlet, and
+raised to a population, splendor and wealth unexcelled by any ancient
+city, it is now a modern place in the midst of impressive ruins. Its
+mixed and unthrifty population is about 165,000.</p>
+
+<p>As you approach it you are guided by the modern light house, 180 feet
+high, which stands on the site of the Great Light of Pharos, built
+by Ptolemy II., 280 B.C., and
+which<!--199.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">192</a></span>
+weathered the storms of sixteen
+centuries, lighting the sea for forty miles around. It was of white
+marble and reckoned as one of the “Seven Wonders of the World.”</p>
+
+<p>Standing in the streets of Alexandria, what a crowd of historic memories
+rush upon you. You are in Lower Egypt, the Delta of the Nile, the country
+of the old Pharaohs whose power was felt from the Mediterranean to the
+Mountains of the Moon, whose land was the “black land,” symbol of plenty
+among the tribes of Arabia and throughout all Syria, land where the
+Hebrews wrought and whence they fled back to their home on the Jordan,
+land of the Grecian Alexander, the Roman C&aelig;sar, the Mohammedan Califf.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 363px;">
+<img src="images/i_192.jpg" width="363" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PHAROS LIGHT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>No earthly dynasty ever lasted longer than that of the Pharaohs. We
+hardly know when time began it, but Brugsch dates it from Menes, B.C.
+4400. It fell permanently with Alexander’s Conquest, 330 B.C., and was
+held by his successors, the Greek Ptolemeys, for three hundred years,
+or until the Romans took it from Cleopatra, whose name is perpetuated
+in the famous Cleopatra’s Needles, which for nearly 2000 years stood as
+companion pieces to Pompey’s Pillar.</p>
+
+<p><!--200.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">193</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Pillar of Pompey, 195 feet high, still stands on high ground
+southeast of the city, near the Moslem burial place. But the Needles
+of Cleopatra are gone. Late investigations have thrown new light on
+these wonders. They were not made nor erected in honor of Cleopatra at
+all, but were historic monuments erected by the Pharaoh, Thutmes III.,
+1600 B.C., at Heliopolis, “City of the Sun.” The two largest pair were,
+centuries ago, transported, one to Constantinople, the other to Rome.
+The two smaller pair were taken to Alexandria by Tiberius and set up
+in front of C&aelig;sar’s Temple, where they obtained the well known name of
+“Cleopatra’s Needles.” One fell down and, after lying prostrate in the
+sand for centuries, was taken to London in 1878 and set up on the banks
+of the Thames. It is 68 feet high, and was cut out of a single stone from
+the quarries of Syene. The other was taken down and transported to New
+York, where it is a conspicuous object in Central Park. They bear nearly
+similar inscriptions, of the time of Thutmes III. and Rameses II.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 266px;">
+<img src="images/i_193.jpg" width="266" height="350"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ALEXANDER THE GREAT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Egypt fell into the hands of the Saracen invaders in A.D. 625, and has
+ever since been under Mohammedan or Turkish rule. The Alexandria of the
+Ptolemeys with its half million people, its magnificent temples, its
+libraries and museums, its learning and art, its commerce for all the
+world, has lost all its former importance, and is to-day a dirty trading
+town filled with a mixed and indolent people.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 390px;">
+<img src="images/i_194.jpg" width="390" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A CLEOPATRA NEEDLE IN ALEXANDRIA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There is no chapter in history so sweeping and interesting as that
+which closed the career of Alexandria to the Christian world. It was
+the real centre of Christian light and influence. Its bishops were
+the most learned and potential, its schools of Christian thought the
+most renowned. It was in commerce with all the world and could scatter
+influences wider than any other city. It had given the Septuagint version
+of the Bible to the nations. All around, it had made converts of
+the<!--201.png--><span class="pagenum">194</span>
+Coptic elements, which were native, and Egypt’s natural defenders in
+case of war. But these it had estranged. Therefore the Saracen conquest
+was easy. Pelusium and Memphis fell. Alexandria was surrounded, and fell
+A.D. 640. “I have taken,” says Amrou, “the great city of the west with
+its 4000
+palaces,<!--202.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span>
+4000 baths, 400 theatres, 12,000 shops, and 40,000
+Jews.” Amrou would have spared the great library of 700,000 volumes.
+But the Califf’s (Omar’s) answer came, “These books are useless if
+they contain only the word of God; they are pernicious if they contain
+anything else. Therefore destroy them.”</p>
+
+<p>Aside from the monuments above mentioned, there is little else to connect
+it with a glorious past except the catacombs on the outskirts, which are
+of the same general character as those at Rome. These catacombs possess a
+weird interest wherever they exist. They abound in one form or another in
+Egypt, and are found in many other countries where, for their extent and
+curious architecture, they rank as wonders.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_195.jpg" width="600" height="423"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">IN THE SERAPEION.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Those lately unearthed in the vast Necropolis of Memphis, and called the
+Serapeion, were the burial place of the Egyptian God Apis, or Serapis,
+the supreme deity represented by the bull Apis. This sacred bull was not
+allowed to live longer than twenty-five years. If he died before that
+age, and of
+natural<!--203.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">196</a></span>
+causes, he was embalmed as a mummy and interred
+in the Serapeion with great pomp. Otherwise, he was secretly put to
+death and buried by the priests in a well. In the Serapeion are some
+magnificent sarcophagi in granite, and inscriptions which preserve the
+Egyptian chronology from 1400 B.C. to 177 B.C.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_196.jpg" width="600" height="538"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">BRONZES OF THE EGYPTIAN GOD APIS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 374px;">
+<img src="images/i_197.jpg" width="374" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ROMAN CATACOMBS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The great catacombs at Rome were the burial places of the early
+Christians. It was supposed they were originally the quarries from
+which the building stone of the city had been taken. But while this is
+true of the catacombs of Paris, it is now conceded that those of Rome
+were cut out for burial purposes only, less perhaps to escape from the
+watchfulness of despotic power, than in obedience to a wish to remain
+faithful to the traditions of the early church which preserved the Jewish
+custom of rock or cave sepulture. These catacombs are of immense and
+bewildering proportions. Their leading feature is long galleries, the
+sides of which are filled with niches to receive the remains. At first
+these galleries were on a certain level, twenty to thirty feet below the
+surface. But as space was required, they were cut out on other levels,
+till some of the galleries got to be as much as three hundred feet below
+the surface. There are some attempts at carving and statue work about the
+remains of illustrious persons, and many inscriptions of great historic
+value, but in general they have been much abused and desecrated, and we
+are sorry to say chiefly by Christian peoples, mostly of the time of
+the Crusades, who found, or supposed
+they<!--204.png--><span class="pagenum">197</span>
+would find, rich booty, in
+the shape of finger rings and other precious things laid away with the
+dead. MacFarlane, in his book upon the catacombs, tells of a company
+of gay young officers of the French army who entered them on a tour of
+inspection. They had plenty of lights, provisions, wine and brandy,
+and their exploration became a revel. They finally began to banter one
+another<!--205.png--><span class="pagenum">198</span>
+about venturing furthest into the dark labyrinthine recesses.
+One, as impious as he was daring, refused to leave the crypts till he
+had visited all. Darting away, torch in hand, he plunged into gallery
+after gallery, until his torch began to burn low and the excitement
+of intoxication left him. With great difficulty he found his way back
+to the chapel where he had left his companions. They were gone. With
+still greater difficulty he reached the entrance to the catacomb. It
+was closed. He shouted frantically, and madly beat upon the railings
+with a piece of tombstone. But it was night and no one could hear. In
+desperation he started back for the chapel. He fell through a chasm
+upon crackling, crumbling bones. The shock to his nerves was terrible.
+Crawling out, he reached the chapel, amid intolerable fear. He who had
+many a time marched undauntedly on gleaming lines of bayonets and had
+schooled himself to look upon death without fear, was not equal to the
+trials of a night in a charnel house. His thirst became intolerable. He
+stumbled upon a bottle left by his companions and, supposing it contained
+water, drank eagerly of its contents. In a few moments the drink acted
+with violence and, in his delirium, he became the victim of wild visions.
+Spectres gathered around him. The bones of the dead rose and clattered
+before him. Fire gleamed in eyeless skulls. Fleshless lips chattered and
+shrieked till the caves echoed. Death must soon have been the result of
+this fearful experience had not morning come and brought fresh visitors
+to the catacombs, who discovered the young officer in a state of stupor
+and took him to the hospital. For months he lay prostrate with brain
+fever. He had been taught the weakness of man in that valley of the
+shadow of death, and ever after gave over his atheistic notions, and
+lived and died a christian.</p>
+
+<p>You may leave Alexandria by canal for the Nile, and then sail to Cairo.
+You will thus see the smaller canals, the villages, the peasantry, the
+dykes of the Nile, the mounds denoting ruins of ancient cities. You will
+see the wheels for raising water from the Nile by foot power, and will
+learn that the lands which are not subject to annual overflow must be
+irrigated
+by<!--206.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">199</a></span>
+canals or by these wheels. You will see at the point where
+the Nile separates into its Damietta and Rosetta branches, the wonderful
+Barrage, or double bridge, intended to hold back the Nile waters for the
+supply of Lower Egypt without the need of water wheels. It is a mighty
+but faulty piece of engineering and does not answer its purpose. From
+this to Cairo the country gets more bluffy and, ere you enter the city,
+you may catch glimpses of the Pyramids off to the right.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_199.jpg" width="600" height="463"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE MASSACRE OF THE MAMELUKES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>But the speediest route from Alexandria is by rail. You are soon whirled
+into the Moslem city. Cairo is not an ancient city, though founded
+almost on the site of old Egyptian Memphis. It is Saracen, and was then
+<i>Kahira</i> (Cairo) “City of Victory,” for it was their first conquest under
+Omar, after they landed and took Pelusium. It was greatly enlarged and
+beautified by Saladin after the overthrow of the Califfs of Bagdad. It
+dates from about A.D. 640.</p>
+
+<p>It is a thickly built, populous (population 327,000) dirty, noisy, narrow
+streeted, city on the east bank of the Nile. Its
+mosques,<!--207.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">200</a></span>
+houses,
+gardens, business, people, burial places, manners and customs, tell at a
+glance of its Mohammedan origin. Its mosques are its chief attraction.
+They are everywhere, and some of them are of vast proportions and great
+architectural beauty. The transfer of the Mameluke power in Egypt to the
+present Khedives was brought about by Mohammed Ali, an Albanian. The
+Mamelukes were decoyed into the citadel at Cairo and nearly all murdered.
+One named Emim Bey escaped by leaping on horseback from the citadel. He
+spurred his charger over a pile of his dead and dying comrades; sprang
+upon the battlements; the next moment he was in the air; another, and he
+released himself from his crushed and bleeding horse amid a shower of
+bullets. He fled; took refuge in the sanctuary of a mosque; and finally
+escaped into the deserts of the Thebaid. The scene of this event is
+always pointed out to travelers.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
+<img src="images/i_200.jpg" width="350" height="373"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">VEILED BEAUTY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is a city divided into quarters&mdash;the European quarter, Coptic quarter,
+Jewish quarter, water carriers’ quarters, and so on. The narrow streets
+are lined with bazaars&mdash;little stores or markets, and thronged by a
+mixed populace&mdash;veiled ladies, priests in robes, citizens with turbaned
+heads, peddlers with trays on their heads, beggars without number, desert
+Bedouins, dervishes, soldiers, boatmen and laborers.</p>
+
+<p>Abraham sent Eliezer to find a wife for Isaac. Matrimonial agents still
+exist in Cairo in the shape of Khatibehs, or betrothers. They are women,
+and generally sellers of cosmetics, which business gives them opportunity
+to get acquainted with both marriageable sons and daughters. They get to
+be rare matchmakers, and profit by their business in a country where a
+man may have as many wives as he can support.</p>
+
+<p>Your sleep will be disturbed by the Mesahhar who
+goes<!--208.png--><span class="pagenum">201</span>
+about the city
+every morning to announce the sunrise, in order that every good Moslem
+may say his prayers before the luminary passes the horizon.</p>
+
+<p>There is no end to the drinking troughs and fountains. Joseph’s well,
+discovered and cleaned out by Saladin, is one of the leading curiosities.
+It is 300 feet deep, cut out of the solid rock, with a winding staircase
+to the bottom.</p>
+
+<p>West of the Nile and nearly opposite Cairo, is the village of Ghiseh,
+on the direct road to the pyramids, mention of which introduces us to
+ancient Egypt and the most wonderful monuments in the world.</p>
+
+<p>Menes, “the constant,” reigned at Tini. He built Memphis, on part of
+whose site Cairo now stands, but whose centre was further up the Nile.
+The Egyptian name was Mennofer, “the good place.” The ruins of Memphis
+were well preserved down to the thirteenth century, and were then
+glowingly described by an Arab physician, Latif. But the stones were
+gradually transported to Cairo, and its ruins reappeared in the mosques
+and palaces of that place.</p>
+
+<p>Westward of the Nile, and some distance from it, was the Necropolis of
+Memphis&mdash;its common and royal burying ground, with its wealth of tombs,
+overlooked by the stupendous buildings of the pyramids which rose high
+above the monuments of the noblest among the noble families who, even
+after life was done, reposed in deep pits at the feet of their lords and
+masters. The contemporaries of the third (3966 B.C. to 3766 B.C.), fourth
+(3733 B.C. to 3600 B.C.) and fifth (3566 B.C. to 3333 B.C.) dynasties are
+here buried and their memories preserved by pictures and writings on the
+walls of their chambers above their tombs. This is the fountain of that
+stream of traditions which carries us back to the oldest dynasty of that
+oldest country. If those countless tombs had been preserved entire to us,
+we could, in the light of modern interpretation, read with accuracy the
+genealogies of the kings and the noble lines that erected them. A few
+remaining heaps enable us to know what they mean and to appreciate the
+loss to history occasioned by their destruction.</p>
+
+<p><!--209.png--><span class="pagenum">202</span></p>
+
+<p>They have served to rescue from oblivion the fact that the Pharaohs of
+Memphis had a title which was “King of Upper and Lower Egypt.” At the
+same time he was “Peras,” “of the great house”&mdash;written Pharaoh in the
+Bible. He was a god for his subjects, a lord par excellence, in whose
+sight there should be prostration and a rubbing of the ground with noses.
+They saluted him with the words “his holiness.” The royal court was
+composed of the nobility of the country and servants of inferior rank.
+The former added to dignity of origin the graces of wisdom, good manners,
+and virtue. Chiefs, or scribes carried on the affairs of the court.</p>
+
+<p>The monuments clearly speak of Senoferu, of the third dynasty, B.C. 3766.
+A ravine in the Memphian Necropolis, where are many ancient caverns,
+contains a stone picture of Senoferu, who appears as a warrior striking
+an enemy to the ground with a mighty club. The rock inscriptions mention
+his name, with the title of “vanquisher of foreign peoples” who in his
+time inhabited the cavernous valleys in the mountains round Sinai.</p>
+
+<p>The Pharaohs of the fourth dynasty were the builders of the hugest of the
+pyramids. The tables discovered at Abydos make Khufu the successor of
+Senoferu. Khufu is the Cheops of the historian Herodotus. His date was
+3733 B.C.</p>
+
+<p>No spirited traveler ever sets foot on the black soil of Egypt, without
+gazing on that wonder of antiquity, the threefold mass of the pyramids
+on the steep edge of the desert, an hour’s ride over the long causeway
+extending out from Ghiseh. The desert’s boundless sea of yellow sand,
+whose billows are piled up around the gigantic pyramids, deeply entombing
+the tomb, surges hot and dry far up the green meadows and mingles with
+the growing grass and corn. From the far distance you see the giant forms
+of the pyramids, as if they were regularly crystalized mountains, which
+the ever-creating nature has called forth from the mother soil of rock,
+to lift themselves up towards the blue vault of heaven. And yet they are
+but tombs, built by the hands of men, raised by King Khufu (Cheops) and
+two other Pharaohs of the same family and dynasty, to be the admiration
+and astonishment of the ancient and modern world.</p>
+
+<p><!--210.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">203</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_203.jpg" width="600" height="374"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PYRAMIDS OF EGYPT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--211.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">204</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We speak now of the three largest&mdash;there are six others in this group,
+and twenty-seven more throughout the Nile valley. They are perfectly
+adjusted to points of the compass&mdash;north, south, east and west. Modern
+investigators have found in the construction, proportions and position of
+the “Great Pyramid” especially, many things which point to a marvellous
+knowledge of science on the part of their builders. If the half they
+say is true of them, there are a vast number of lost arts to discredit
+modern genius. Some go so far as to trace in their measurements and
+construction, not only prophecy of the coming of Christ, but chart of
+the events which have signalized the world’s history and are yet to make
+it memorable. They base their reasoning on the fact that there was no
+architectural model for them and no books extant to teach the science
+requisite for their construction, that their height and bases bear
+certain proportions to each other, and to the diameter of a great circle,
+that they are on the line of a true meridian, that certain openings point
+to certain stars, and so on till ingenuity is exhausted.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_204.jpg" width="600" height="528"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SECTION OF THE GREAT PYRAMID, SHOWING ITS
+INTERIOR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The three large pyramids measure thus</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr>
+  <td align="center">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td align="center">Pyramid</td>
+  <td align="center">Height,<br />feet</td>
+  <td align="center">Breadth of<br />base, feet</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="center">Khufu (Cheops),</td>
+  <td align="center">Great</td>
+  <td align="center">450.75</td>
+  <td align="center">746</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="center">Khafra,</td>
+  <td align="center">Second</td>
+  <td align="center">447.5</td>
+  <td align="center">690.75</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="center">Menkara,</td>
+  <td align="center">Third</td>
+  <td align="center">203.</td>
+  <td align="center">352.88</td>
+</tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<!--212.png--><p><span class="pagenum">205</span></p>
+
+<p>As soon as a Pharaoh mounted the throne he gave orders to a nobleman,
+master of all the buildings, to plan the work and cut the stone. The
+kernel of the future edifice was raised on the limestone rock of
+the desert in the form of a small pyramid built in steps. Its well
+constructed and finished interior formed the king’s eternal dwelling,
+with his stone sarcophagus lying on the stone floor. Let us suppose this
+first building finished while the king still lived. A second covering was
+added on the outside of the first; then a third; then a fourth; and so
+the mass of the giant building grew greater the longer the king lived.
+Then at last, when it became almost impossible to extend the area of the
+pyramid further, a casing of hard stone, polished like glass, and fitted
+accurately into the angles of the steps, covered the vast mass of the
+king’s sepulchre, presenting a gigantic triangle on each of its four
+faces. More than seventy of such pyramids once rose on the margin of the
+desert, each telling of a king, of whom it was at once the tomb and the
+monument.</p>
+
+<p>At present the Great Pyramid is, externally, a rough, huge mass of
+limestone blocks, regularly worked and cemented. The top is flattened.
+The outside polished casing, as well as the top, has been removed by the
+builders of Cairo, for mosques and palaces, as have many of the finest
+ruins on the Nile.</p>
+
+<p>The Sphinx was sculptured at some time not far removed from the building
+of the three great pyramids. Recent discoveries have increased the
+astonishment of mankind at the bulk of this monstrous figure and at the
+vast and unknown buildings that stood around it and, as it were, lay
+between its paws. It is within a few years that the sand has been blown
+away and revealed these incomprehensible structures. In a well near by
+was found a finely executed statue of Khafra, builder of the second
+pyramid.</p>
+
+<p>There are other sphinxes, but this at the base of the Great Pyramid is
+the largest. It has a man’s head and a lion’s body, and is supposed to
+represent the kingly power of the sun god. Its length is 140 feet, and
+height 30 feet. Between its paws is an altar, to which you ascend by a
+long flight of steps. The Arabs call it “the fatherly terror.”</p>
+
+<p><!--213.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">206</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In the middle “chamber of the dead” of Menkara’s pyramid was found his
+stone sarcophagus and its wooden cover, both beautifully adorned in the
+style of a temple. They were taken out and shipped for England, but the
+vessel was wrecked, and the sarcophagus now lies at the bottom of the
+Mediterranean. The lid was saved and is now in the British Museum. On it
+is carved a text or prayer to Osiris, king of the gods: “O Osiris, who
+hast become king of Egypt, Menkara living eternally, child of heaven, son
+of the divine mother, heir of time, over thee may she stretch herself and
+cover thee, thy divine mother, in her name as mystery of heaven. May she
+grant that thou shouldst be like god, free from all evils, king Menkara,
+living eternally.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_206.jpg" width="600" height="422"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SPHINX.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The prayer is not uncommon, for parts of it have been found on other
+monuments. Its sense is, “Delivered from mortal matter, the soul of the
+dead king passes through the immense spaces of heaven to unite itself
+with god, after having overcome the evil which opposed it on its journey
+through earth.”</p>
+
+<p><!--214.png--><span class="pagenum">207</span></p>
+
+<p>The entrance to the great pyramid was formerly quite concealed, only
+the priests knowing where to find the movable stone that would admit
+them. But now the opening is plain, and is about forty-five feet from
+the ground on the north side. Thence there is a descent through a narrow
+passage for 320 feet into the sepulchral chamber. The passage is much
+blocked and difficult. The great red granite sarcophagus is there, empty
+and broken, mute receptacle of departed greatness, for which the relic
+hunter has had quite too little respect.</p>
+
+<p>With the end of the fifth dynasty pyramid building ceased. The glory of
+Memphis departed and went to Thebes, where kingly vanity seems to have
+sought outlet in the temple architecture whose ruins are the wonder of
+the world.</p>
+
+<p>Above the old site of Memphis, is Toora, and out on its desert side are
+the pyramids of Sakkarah, eleven in number. The most remarkable is the
+Step Pyramid, believed to be more ancient than those of Ghiseh. But there
+is something even more wonderful here&mdash;the Temple of Serapis, which it
+took four years to disengage from the sands of the desert after its site
+was discovered. It seems to have been dedicated to Serapis, the sacred
+bull of Egypt. Beneath it is a great catacomb where once laid the remains
+of thousands of sacred bulls. Their stone coffins are still there, cut
+out of solid blocks of granite, and measuring fourteen feet long by
+eleven feet high.</p>
+
+<p>Further up the Nile are the high limestone cliffs of Gebel-et-Teyr, on
+which perches the Coptic “Convent of the Pulley.” The monks who live here
+are great beggars. They let themselves down from the cliff and swim off
+to a passing boat to ask alms in the name of their Christianity.</p>
+
+<p>The next town of moment is Siout, capital of Upper Egypt. It stands on
+the site of ancient Lycopolis, “wolf city,” and is backed in by lofty
+cliffs, from which the views are very fine. Further up is Girgeh, whence
+you must take journey on the back of donkeys to Abydos, off eastward on
+the edge of the desert. Here was the most ancient city of This, or Tini,
+where Mena reigned, on whose ruins Abydos was built, itself an antiquity
+and wonder. Here is the great temple begun by Seti
+I.<!--215.png--><span class="pagenum">208</span>
+and completed
+by his son Rameses II., 1333 B.C. Rameses II., was the Pharaoh of the
+Exodus. Its roof, pillars and walls are all preserved and the chiselling
+on the latter is something marvellous. What renders it doubly interesting
+is, the name of the sculptor is preserved. His name was Hi, and he must
+have been a man of decided genius, for his picture of the king and son
+taming the bull is quite spirited. In this temple is also the celebrated
+sculpture called the “Table of Abydos,” which gives a list of sixty-five
+kings, from Menes down to the last king of the twelfth dynasty, a period
+of 2166 years. It is a most invaluable record and has done much to throw
+light on Egyptian history. It was discovered in 1865. Abydos then, or
+Tini, was the starting point of Egyptian power and civilization, as we
+now know it. Here was the first dynasty of the Pharaohs, transferred
+afterwards to Memphis where the pyramids became their monuments,
+re-transferred to Thebes where the temples chronicled their greatness and
+grandeur. Old as Thebes is, Abydos is older, and Tini older still. Most
+carefully has the temple at Abydos been exhumed from the sand which has
+preserved it for three thousand years, most of the time against the hands
+of those who, knowing better, would have spoiled its fair proportions
+and its great historic value. Abydos seems to have been a city of tombs,
+and it is possible that the greatness of all Egypt sought it as a burial
+place.</p>
+
+<p>The most powerful of these Theban Kings, were those of the twelfth
+dynasty and on, beginning 2466 B.C., though Thebes can be traced back to
+the sixth dynasty as a city. It was a period in which strong monarchs
+ruled, and the arts were cultivated with magnificent results. Thebes
+was the capital, and on its temples and palaces the most enormous labor
+and expense were lavishly bestowed. And this not in Thebes alone, but
+in all the cities of Egypt; and they all make history too, impressive,
+invaluable history.</p>
+
+<p>Siout owes its present importance to the caravan trade with Darfur
+and Nubia. Passing on toward Thebes, the river banks get more and
+more bluffy. You soon come to Dendera on the west bank. Its ruins are
+magnificent, and by many
+regarded<!--216.png--><span class="pagenum">209</span>
+as the finest in Egypt. The portico
+of its ancient temple is inconceivably grand. Its length is 265 feet and
+height 60 feet. It is entirely covered with mystic, varied and fantastic
+sculptures, hieroglyphics, groups, figures of deities, sacred animals,
+processions of soldiers&mdash;in short the manners and mythology of all Egypt.
+The workmanship is elaborate and finished. The interior is no less
+beautiful. The roof contained a sculptured representation of the twelve
+signs of the Zodiac. It has been taken down and is now in the museum at
+Paris.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles further on in this bewildering region of solid rock bluffs,
+immense quarries, deep sculptured caverns, you come to Thebes itself,
+“City of the hundred gates,” lying on both sides of the Nile, the
+reports of whose power and splendor we would regard as fabulous, were
+its majestic ruins not there still to corroborate every glowing account.
+Whatever of Egyptian art is older than that of the Theban era lacked
+the beauty which moves to admiration. Beginning with the Theban kings
+of the twelfth dynasty, the harmonious form of beauty united with truth
+and nobleness meets the eye of the beholder as well in buildings as in
+statues. The great labyrinth and the excavation for the artificial lake
+Mœris, at Alexandria, were made during this period. In Tanis, at the
+mouth of the Nile, was erected a temple whose inscriptions show not only
+the manners of the country with great historic accuracy, but tell the
+tale of frequent trade with the people from Arabia and Canaan.</p>
+
+<p>The site of Thebes is an immense amphitheatre with the Nile in the
+centre. At first you see only a confusion of portals, obelisks and
+columns peeping through or towering above the palm trees. Gradually you
+are able to distinguish objects, and the first that strikes you is the
+ruins of Luxor on the eastern bank. They overlook the Arab village at
+their base, and consist of a long row of columns and the huge gateway
+of the Temple of Luxor. The columns are those of an immense portico,
+and by them stood two beautiful obelisks, one of which is now in the
+Place de la Concorde, Paris. The columns are monoliths, fully ten feet
+in diameter, and many of them in a perfect state. All are covered with
+inscriptions of
+various<!--217.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">210</a></span>
+signification. This temple was built by Rameses
+II., and is therefore not one of the oldest in Egypt, though not the
+least interesting. On the westward or opposite side of the Nile is Memnon
+and the temple home of Rameses II. There is little or nothing of the
+temple there, but twin colossal statues stand in lonely desolation on the
+plain, and these once guarded the temple entrance. One is perfect, the
+other broken. Both measured sixty-four feet in height. They are sitting
+giants carved from solid stone. They represented King Amenhotep, in whose
+honor the temple was built. At their feet are small sitting statues, one
+of his wife Thi, the other of his mother Mutem-ua, each carved out of
+red sandstone mixed with white quartz, and each a marvellous exhibition
+of skill in treating the hardest and most brittle materials. They stand
+twenty-two feet apart. The northern, or broken one, is that which the
+Greeks and Romans celebrated in poetry and prose as the “vocal statue
+of Memnon.” Its legs are covered with inscriptions of Greek, Roman,
+Phœnician and Egyptian travelers, written to assure the reader that they
+had really visited the place or had heard the musical tones of Memnon at
+the rising of the sun.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 566px;">
+<img src="images/i_210.jpg" width="566" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE COLOSSI.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the year 27 B.C. the upper part of this statue was removed from its
+place and thrown down by an earthquake. From that time on, tourists began
+to mutilate it by cutting into it their befitting or unbefitting remarks.
+The assurances that they had heard Memnon sing or ring ceased under the
+reign of Septimius Severus who completed the wanting upper part of the
+body as well as he could with blocks of stone piled up and
+fastened<!--218.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">211</a></span>
+together. It is a well known fact that split or cracked rocks, after
+cooling during the night, at the rising of the sun or as soon as the
+stone becomes warm, may emit a prolonged ringing note. After the statue
+was restored in the manner above described, the sound, if ever it emitted
+any, naturally ceased. The crack was covered by the masonry.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_211.jpg" width="600" height="448"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE RAMESEION OF THEBES AND COLOSSAL STATUE OF
+RAMESES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The story of the architect of this temple is told in the hieroglyphics.
+That part which relates to these two memorable statues tells how he
+conceived them without any order from the king, cut them out of solid
+rock, and employed eight ships to move them from the quarries down
+the Nile to Memphis. Even in our highly cultivated age, with all its
+inventions and machines which enable us by the help of steam to raise and
+transport the heaviest weights, the shipment and erection of the mammoth
+statues of Memnon remain an insoluble riddle. Verily the architect,
+Amenhotep the son
+of<!--219.png--><span class="pagenum">212</span>
+Hapoo, must have been not only a wise but a
+specially ingenious man of his time.</p>
+
+<p>Back of the Memnon Statues and the ruins of the “Palace Temple,”
+which they guarded, and 500 yards nearer the Lybian desert, stood the
+Rameseion. It was both palace and temple. It is finely situated on the
+lowest grade of the hills as they begin to ascend from the plain, and
+its various parts occupy a series of terraces, one rising above the
+other in a singularly impressive and majestic fashion. Its outer gateway
+is grandly massive. Sculptures embellish it, very quaint and vivid.
+It formed the entrance to the first court, whose walls are destroyed.
+Some picturesque Ramessid columns remain, however; and at their foot
+lie the fragments of the hugest statue that was ever fashioned by
+Egyptian sculptor. It was a fitting ornament for a city of giants; such
+an effigy as might have embellished a palace built and inhabited by
+Titans. Unhappily, it is broken from the middle; but when entire it must
+have weighed about 887 tons, and measured 22 feet 4 inches across the
+shoulders, and 14 feet 4 inches from the neck to the elbow. The toes are
+from 2 to 3 feet long. The whole mass is composed of Syene granite; and
+it is offered as a problem to engineers and contractors of the present
+day,&mdash;How were nearly 900 tons of granite conveyed some hundreds of
+miles from Syene to Thebes? It is equally difficult to imagine how,
+in a country not afflicted by earthquakes, so colossal a monument was
+overthrown.</p>
+
+<p>Such was the Rameseion. It looked towards the east, facing the
+magnificent temple at Karnak. Its propylon, or gateway, in the days
+of its glory, was in itself a structure of the highest architectural
+grandeur, and the portion still extant measures 234 feet in length.
+The principal edifice was about 600 feet in length and 200 feet in
+breadth, with upwards of 160 columns, each 30 feet in height. A wall of
+brick enclosed it; and a dromos, fully 1600 feet long, and composed of
+two hundred sphinxes, led in a northwesterly direction to a temple or
+fortress, sheltered among the Libyan hills.</p>
+
+<p>This period of temple building and ornamentation which makes Thebes as
+conspicuous in Egyptian history as
+pyramid<!--220.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">213</a></span>
+building had made Memphis,
+extended over several dynasties, and practically ended with the twentieth
+(1200 B.C. to 1133 B.C.) which embraced the long line of Rameses, except
+Rameses I. and II. This was the time of the Hebrew captivity and of the
+Exodus.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_213.jpg" width="600" height="563"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE GREAT COURT AND OBELISK OF KARNAK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The most illustrious of all these kings&mdash;the Alexander the Great of
+Egyptian history&mdash;was Thutmes III., who reigned for 53 years, and carried
+Egyptian power into the heart of Africa as well as Asia. Countless
+memorials of his reign exist in papyrus rolls, on temple walls, in tombs
+and even on beetles and other ornaments. These conquests of his brought
+to Egypt countless prisoners of every race who, according to the old
+custom, found employment in the public works. It was principally to
+the great public edifices, and among those especially to the enlarged
+buildings of the temple at Amon (Ape) near Karnak, that these foreigners
+were forced to devote their time.</p>
+
+<p>Though Karnak is several miles further up the Nile, and
+on<!--221.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">214</a></span>
+the same side
+as Luxor, it is in the same splendid natural amphitheatre, and is a part
+of the grand temple system of Thebes and its suburbs. Let us visit its
+magnificent ruins before stopping to look in upon Thebes proper.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 430px;">
+<img src="images/i_214.jpg" width="430" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SPHINX OF KARNAK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Karnak ruins surpass in imposing grandeur all others in Egypt and
+the world. The central hall of the Grand Temple is a nearly complete
+ruin, but a room has been found which contained a stone tablet on which
+Thutmes III. is represented as giving recognition to his fifty-six royal
+predecessors. This valuable historic tablet has been carried away and
+is now in Paris. This temple was 1108 feet long and 300 wide. But this
+temple was only a part of the gorgeous edifice. On three sides were other
+temples, a long way off, yet connected with the central one by avenues
+whose sides were lined with statuary, mostly sphinxes. Many of the latter
+are yet in place, and are slowly crumbling to ruin. Two colossal statues
+at the door of the temple now lie prostrate. Across the entire ruins
+appear fragments of architecture, trunks of broken columns, mutilated
+statues, obelisks, some fallen others majestically erect, immense halls
+whose roofs are supported by forests of columns, and portals, surpassing
+all former or later structures. Yet when the plan is studied and
+understood, its regularity appears wonderful and the beholder is lost in
+admiration. Here are two obelisks, one 69 feet high, the other 91 feet,
+the latter the highest in Egypt, and adorned with sculptures of perfect
+execution. One hundred
+and<!--222.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">215</a></span>
+thirty-four columns of solid stone, each
+seventy feet high and eleven in diameter, supported the main hall of the
+temple which was 329 feet by 170 feet. The steps to the door are 40 feet
+long and 10 wide. The sculptures were adorned with colors, which have
+withstood the ravages of time. Fifty of the sphinxes remain, and there is
+evidence that the original number was six hundred.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_215.jpg" width="600" height="557"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">GATEWAY AT KARNAK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>All who have visited this scene describe the impression as superior
+to that made by any earthly object. Says Denon, “The whole French
+army, on coming in sight of it, stood still, struck as it were with an
+electric shock.” Belzoni says: “The sublimest ideas derived from the
+most magnificent specimens of modern architecture, cannot equal those
+imparted by a sight of these ruins. I appeared to be entering a city of
+departed giants, and I seemed alone in the midst of all that was most
+sacred in the world. The forest of enormous columns adorned all round
+with beautiful figures and various ornaments, the high portals seen at
+a distance from the openings to this vast
+labyrinth<!--223.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">216</a></span>
+of edifices, the
+various groups of ruins in the adjoining temples&mdash;these had such an
+effect as to separate me in imagination from the rest of mortals, and
+make me seem unconscious whether I was on earth or some other planet.”</p>
+
+<p>And Karnak, like all Nile scenes, is said to be finer by moonlight than
+sunlight. But you must go protected, for the wild beast does not hesitate
+to make a lair of the caverns amid these ruins. Human vanity needs no
+sadder commentary.</p>
+
+<p>This temple was the acme of old Egyptian art. Its mass was not the
+work of one king, but of many. It therefore measures taste, wealth and
+architectural vigor better than a book. But its founder, Thutmes III.,
+left similar monuments to his power. They have been traced in Nubia, in
+the island of Elephantine, in various cities of northern Egypt, and even
+in Mesopotamia.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 223px;">
+<img src="images/i_216.jpg" width="223" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A MUMMY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In Central Thebes you meet with ruins of the home palace or dwelling
+place of Rameses III. The king’s chamber can be traced by the character
+of the sculptures. You see in these the king attended by the ladies of
+his harem. They are giving him lotus flowers and waving fans before him.
+In one picture he sits with a favorite at a game of draughts. His arm
+is extended holding a piece in the act of moving. And so the various
+domestic scenes of the old monarch appear, reproducing for us, after
+a period of 3500 years, quite a history of how things went on in the
+palaces of royalty upon the Nile.</p>
+
+<p>The tombs of Thebes surpass all others in number, extent and splendor.
+They are back toward the desert in the rocky chain which bounds it.
+Here are subterranean works
+which<!--224.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">217</a></span>
+almost rival the pyramids in wonder.
+Entrance galleries cut into the solid rock lead to distant central
+chambers where are deposited the sarcophagi which contained the bodies
+of the dead. The walls everywhere, and the sarcophagi, or stone coffins,
+are elaborately sculptured with family histories, prayers, and all the
+ornaments which formed the pride of the living. Festivals, agricultural
+operations, commercial transactions, hunts, bullfights, fishing and
+fowling scenes, vineyards, ornamental grounds, form the subject of
+these varied, interesting and truly historic sketches. The chambers
+and passages which run in various directions contain mummies in that
+wonderful state of preservation which the Egyptians alone had the art of
+securing. They are found wrapped in successive folds of linen, saturated
+with bitumen, so as to preserve to the present the form and even the
+features of the dead. Alas! how these sacred resting places have been
+desecrated. The sarcophagi have been broken and carried away, and the
+mummified remains that rested securely in their niches for thousands of
+years have been dragged out to gratify the curiosity of sight seers in
+all quarters of the globe.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_217.jpg" width="600" height="500"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">TEMPLE AT EDFOU.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--225.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">218</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 455px;">
+<img src="images/i_218.jpg" width="455" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">TEMPLE COURT AT PHIL&AElig;.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Beyond Thebes, the Nile enters a narrow sand-stone gorge. But just before
+you enter this you pass the very wonderful temple of Edfou, in almost a
+perfect state of preservation, further testimonial to the wealth, power
+and art of those old Theban kings. Entering the gorge, the rocks overhang
+the river for miles on miles. You are now in the midst of the sandstone
+quarries whence were drawn the material for many a statue and temple.
+At the head of the gorge is Assouan, trading point for the Soudan and
+Central Africa. It is the ancient Syene, and is the real quarrying ground
+of Egypt. The
+red<!--226.png--><span class="pagenum">219</span>
+granite from the steps of Syene is in the pyramids and
+all the mighty monuments of the Nile valley. Entering the vast quarries
+here, you can see a large obelisk not entirely detached from the solid
+rock, lying just as it was left by the workmen thousands of years ago.
+There are also half finished monuments of other forms still adhering to
+their mother rock, and a monstrous sarcophagus which had for some reason
+been discarded ere it was quite finished.</p>
+
+<p>In the river opposite Assouan is the Island of Elephantine or “Isle of
+Flowers,” on which are the ruins of two temples of the Theban period.
+Three miles above is the first cataract of the Nile, which was reckoned
+as the boundary of Upper Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>You are now 580 miles south of Cairo and 730 from the Mediterranean, on
+the borders of Nubia. Assouan is a border town now, with 4000 people, but
+in the time of old Theban kings, Syene was not on the margin of their
+empire and glory, nor did the wonders of the Nile valley cease here. A
+short way above Assouan is the beautiful island of Phil&aelig;, the turning
+point of tourists on the Nile, crowned with its temples, colonnades and
+palms and set in a framework of majestic rocks and purple mountains. The
+island was especially dedicated to the worship of Isis, and her temple
+is yet one of the most beautiful of Egyptian ruins, as much of the
+impressive coloring of the interior remains uninjured. The ruins of no
+less than eight distinct temples exist here, some of which are as late as
+the Roman occupation of Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>One hundred and twenty miles above, or south of, the first cataract
+of the Nile, thirty-six miles north of the last, and quite within the
+borders of Nubia, the traveller, struck hitherto with the impoverished
+aspect of the country, suddenly pauses with astonishment and admiration
+before a range of colossal statues carved out of the rocky side of a hill
+of limestone, the base of which is washed by the famous river.</p>
+
+<p>For centuries the drifting sands of the desert had accumulated over the
+architectural wonders of Ipsambul, and no sign of them was visible except
+the head of one gigantic statue.</p>
+
+<p>No traveler seems to have inquired what this solitary
+landmark<!--227.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">220</a></span>
+meant;
+whether it indicated the site of a city, a palace, or a tomb; until, in
+1717, the enthusiastic Belzoni undertook the work of excavation. His
+toil was well rewarded; for it brought to light a magnificent specimen
+of the highest Egyptian art; a specimen which, with Champollion, we may
+confidently attribute to the palmiest epoch of Pharaonic civilization.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_220.jpg" width="600" height="468"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">TEMPLE OF ISIS, ISLAND OF PHIL&AElig;.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Every voyager who visits Ipsambul seems inspired with more than ordinary
+feelings of admiration.</p>
+
+<p>Here, exclaims Eliot Warburton, the daring genius of Ethiopian
+architecture ventured to enter into rivalry with Nature’s greatness, and
+found her material in the very mountains that seemed to bid defiance to
+her efforts.</p>
+
+<p>You can conceive nothing more singular and impressive, says Mrs. Romer,
+than the fa&ccedil;ade of the Great Temple; for it is both a temple and a cave.
+Ipsambul, remarks Sir F. Henniker, is the <i>ne plus ultra</i> of Egyptian
+labor; and in itself an
+ample<!--228.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">221</a></span>
+recompense for the labor of a voyage up
+the Nile. There is no temple, of either Dendera, Thebes, or Phil&aelig;, which
+can be put in competition with it; and one may well be contented to
+finish one’s travels with having seen the noblest monument of antiquity
+in Nubia and Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>There are two temples at Ipsambul&mdash;one much larger than the other; but
+each has a <i>speos</i>, or cavern, hewn out of the solid rock. Let us first
+visit the more considerable, consecrated by Rameses II. to the sun-god
+Phrah, or Osiris, whose statue is placed above the entrance door. An
+area of 187 feet wide by 86 feet high is excavated from the mountain,
+the sides being perfectly smooth, except where ornamented by relievos.
+The fa&ccedil;ade consists of four colossal statues of Rameses II. seated, each
+65 feet high, two on either side of the gateway. From the shoulder to
+the tiara they measure 15 feet 6 inches; the ears are 3 feet 6 inches
+long; the face 7 feet; the beard 5 feet 6 inches; the shoulders 25 feet 4
+inches across. The moulding of each stony countenance is exquisite.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_221.jpg" width="600" height="333"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">FACADE OF TEMPLE OF PHRAH-IPSAMBUL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The beauty of the curves is surprising in stone; the rounding of the
+muscles and the flowing lines of the neck and face are executed with
+great fidelity.</p>
+
+<p>Between the legs of these gigantic Ramessids are placed four statues of
+greatly inferior dimensions; mere pigmies compared with their colossal
+neighbors, and yet considerably larger than ordinary human size. The
+doorway is twenty feet high. On either side are carved some huge
+hieroglyphical reliefs, while the whole fa&ccedil;ade is finished by a cornice
+and row of
+quaintly<!--229.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">222</a></span>
+carved figures underneath a frieze of 21 monkeys,
+each eight feet high and six feet across the shoulders. Passing the
+doorway you enter a vast and gloomy hall. Here is a vast and mysterious
+aisle whose pillars are eight colossal giants on whom the rays of heaven
+never shone. They stand erect, with hands across their stony breasts;
+figures of the all-conquering Rameses, whose mitre-shaped head dresses,
+each wearing in front the serpent, emblem of royal power, nearly touch
+the roof. They are all perfectly alike; all carry the crosier and
+flail; every face is characterized by a deep and solemn expression. How
+different from the grotesque and often unclean monsters which embody
+the Hindoo conception of Divine attributes! They are the very types of
+conscious power, of calm and passionless intellect; as far removed from
+the petty things of earth as the stars from the worm that crawls beneath
+the sod.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_222.jpg" width="600" height="449"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">INTERIOR OF THE TEMPLE OF OSIRIS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>These images of the great king are supported against enormous pillars,
+cut out of the solid rock; and behind them run two gorgeous galleries,
+whose walls are covered with historical bas-reliefs of battle and
+victory, of conquering warriors, bleeding victims, fugitives, cities
+besieged, long trains of soldiers and
+captives,<!--230.png--><span class="pagenum">223</span>
+numerous companies of
+chariots, all combined in a picture of great beauty and impressive effect.</p>
+
+<p>This entrance chamber is 57 feet by 52 feet. It opens into a cellar 35
+feet long, 25<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> feet wide and 22 feet high, and is supported in the
+centre by four pillars each three feet square. Its walls are embellished
+by fine hieroglyphs in an excellent state of preservation. Behind is
+a smaller chamber where, upon thrones of rock, are seated the three
+divinities of the Egyptian trinity Ammon-Ra, Phrah and Phtah, accompanied
+by Rameses the Great, here admitted on an equality with them. On either
+side of the outer entrance are doors leading to rooms hewn out of solid
+rock. They are six in number and each is profusely ornamented with lamps,
+vases, piles of cakes and fruits and other offerings to the Gods. The
+lotus is painted in every stage of its growth, and the boat is a frequent
+symbol. These bas-reliefs seem to have been covered with a stucco which
+was painted in various colors. The ground color of the ceiling is blue
+and covered with symbolic birds. Well may Champollion exclaim: “The
+temple of Ipsambul is in itself worthy a journey to Nubia;” or Lenormant
+say, “It is the most gigantic conception ever begotten by the genius of
+the Pharaohs.” It is a temple of Rameses II., of the nineteenth Theban
+dynasty, who figures as the Sesostris of the Greeks.</p>
+
+<p>Hardly less interesting is the Little Temple of Ipsambul, dedicated to
+Athor, or Isis, the Egyptian Venus, by the queen of Rameses the Great.
+Either side of its doorway is flanked by statues thirty feet high,
+sculptured in relief on the compact mass of rock, and standing erect with
+their arms by their sides. The centre figure of each three represents the
+queen as Isis, her face surmounted by a moon within a cow’s horns. The
+other images are intended for King Rameses himself. Beneath the right
+hand of each are smaller statues representing the three sons and three
+daughters of the king and queen.</p>
+
+<p>A portion of the rock, measuring one hundred and eleven feet in length,
+has been excavated to make room for the fa&ccedil;ade of the temple. The devices
+begin on the northern side with an image of Rameses brandishing his
+falchion, as if about to strike.</p>
+
+<p><!--231.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">224</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_224.jpg" width="600" height="434"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">TEMPLE OF ATHOR IPSAMBUL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Athor, behind him, lifts her hand in compassion for the victim; Osiris,
+in front, holds forth the great knife, as if to command the slaughter.
+He is seated there as the judge, and decides the fate of the peoples
+conquered by the Egyptian king. The next object is a colossal statue
+of about thirty feet high, wrought in a deep recess of the rock: it
+represents Athor standing, and two tall plumes spring from the middle of
+her head-dress, with the symbolic crescent on either side. Then comes
+a mass of hieroglyphics, and above them are seated the sun-god and the
+hawk-headed deity Anubis. On either side of the doorway, as you pass into
+the pronaos, offerings are presented to Athor,&mdash;who holds in her hand
+the lotus-headed sceptre, and is surrounded with a cloud of emblems and
+inscriptions. This hall is supported by six square pillars, all having
+the head of Athor on the front face of their capitals; the other three
+faces being occupied with sculptures, once richly painted, and
+still<!--232.png--><span class="pagenum">225</span>
+exhibiting traces of blue, red, and yellow coloring. The shafts are
+covered with hieroglyphs, and emblematical representations of Osiris,
+Athor, Kneph, and other deities.</p>
+
+<p>If these sacred edifices inspire a feeling of awe in the spectator, while
+in ruin, what must their effect have been when their shrines contained
+their mystics’ images; when the open portals revealed their sculptures
+and the walls their glowing colors to the worshipping multitudes; when
+the roofs shone with azure and gold; when the colossal forms represented
+the deities in whom they reposed their faith; when processions of kings,
+nobles and priests marched along their torch lit aisles; when incense
+filled the air and the vaults resounded with the music of ten thousand
+voices; when every hieroglyph and emblem had a meaning to the kneeling
+votary, now forgotten or never known?</p>
+
+<p>Numerous other Nubian temples bear witness to Egyptian prowess, wealth,
+patience and religious sentiment. That at Derr is cut out of the solid
+rock to a depth of 110 feet, and its grand entrance chamber is supported
+by six columns representing Osiris. It was built in honor of the great
+Rameses. At Ibrim are four rock temples, all of the time of the Theban
+kings. And so the traveler up the Nile, and into the domains of far off
+Nubia, is continually meeting with these vast rock temples, monuments of
+the Egyptian kings on the one hand, tombs of the nobility on the other,
+and worshiping halls for all.</p>
+
+<p>Returning to Egypt and passing down the eastern arm of the Nile to Tanis,
+or Beni-Hassan, where the Hebrews and Arabs were wont to trade with the
+Egyptians, we find one of the oldest authentic monuments, except the
+pyramids, and certainly the most interesting to us. It is the tomb of a
+nobleman under Usurtasen II. B.C. 2366. The rich paintings on the walls
+of this tomb are of inestimable value as showing the arts, trades, and
+domestic, public and religious institutions of the Egyptians at this
+period. They are still more valuable in an historic view, for they relate
+to the arrival of a family of thirty-seven persons from the Hebrew or
+Semitic nation, who had come to fix their abode on the blessed banks of
+the Nile. The
+father<!--233.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">226</a></span>
+of the family is represented as offering a gift to
+the king. Behind him are his companions, bearded men, armed with lances,
+bows and clubs. The women are dressed in the lively fashion of the Amu
+tribe, to which the family belongs. The children and asses are loaded
+with baggage. A companion of the party is standing by with a lyre of very
+old form. The gift of the father, or patriarch, was the paint of Midian,
+an article highly prized by the Egyptians. Many persons have been eager
+to associate this inscription, or sculpture, with the arrival of the sons
+of Jacob in Egypt, to implore the favor of Joseph; but it antedates that
+event so far that there can be no possible connection between them. It
+does show however that arrivals in Egypt from Arabia and Palestine, for
+purposes of trade and even permanent residence, were not confined by any
+means to the scriptural period.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_226.jpg" width="600" height="456"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">INTERIOR OF ROCK TOMB&mdash;BENI-HASSAN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>But where in Egypt do these wonders of monument, of sculpture, of sacred
+writing, not exist? We find them everywhere, telling of a people full of
+genius and the germs of all civilization. You read as you could not read
+from a book, for there is no conflict of sentiment, no odd statements to
+reconcile. And what do you read? That the art of writing was familiar
+to priest and scribe. That they had ships, for their inscriptions show
+handsome nautical designs. There are glass blowers, flax dressers,
+spinners, weavers, and bales of cloth. There are potters, painters,
+carpenters, and statuaries. There is a doctor attending a patient and a
+herdsman physicking cattle. The hunters employ
+arrows,<!--234.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">227</a></span>
+spears and the
+lasso. There is the Nile full of fish and a hippopotamus among the ooze.
+There is the bastinado for the men and the flogging of a seated woman.
+There are games of ball and other amusements for men and women. And then
+the luxuries! There are harpers, costly garments, patterns of every
+design, fashions for the hair, costly spices and perfumes. They have
+portrayed every type of life and business with a faithfulness which is
+astonishing.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_227.png" width="600" height="589"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">EGYPTIAN BRICK FIELD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The most mysterious of Egyptian monuments is “The Caves of the
+Crocodiles,” or Grottoes of Samoun, in Upper Egypt. They are not often
+visited because travelers are repelled at
+the<!--235.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">228</a></span>
+outset by their difficulty
+and gloom. They are filled with an incalculable number of human mummies,
+and those of the crocodile, birds and reptiles. Whence they came is
+not known, but, it is supposed, from Monfalout and Hermenopolis on the
+opposite side of the Nile. An English traveler, M. A. Georges, penetrated
+them after great trouble, and was horrified to find within the dark
+grottoes the remains of a traveler who had been overcome by famine and
+exhaustion. He says,</p>
+
+<p>“On raising our eyes we perceived a horrid spectacle. A corpse still
+covered with its skin was seated on the rounded fragment of a rock. Its
+aspect was hideous. Its arms were outstretched, its head thrown back. His
+neck was bent with the death agony. His emaciated body, eyes enlarged,
+chin contracted, mouth twisted and open, hair erect on his head, every
+feature distorted by suffering&mdash;these gave him a horrible appearance.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_228.jpg" width="600" height="594"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">INTERIOR OF GROTTOES OF SAMOUN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>“It made one shudder; involuntarily one thought of
+one’s-self.<!--236.png--><span class="pagenum">229</span>
+His
+shrunken hands dug their nails into the flesh; the chest was split open,
+displaying the lungs and tracheal artery; on striking the abdomen, it
+resounded hoarsely, like a cracked drum.</p>
+
+<p>“Undoubtedly this man had been full of vital force when seized by death.
+Undoubtedly he had lost himself in these dark galleries, and his lantern
+having flickered out, he had vainly sought the track leading to the upper
+air, shouting in frenzied tones which none could hear; hunger, thirst,
+fatigue, terror, must have driven him nearly mad; he had seated himself
+on this stone, and howled despairingly until death had mercifully come
+to his relief. The warm humidity and the bituminous exhalations of the
+cavern had so thoroughly interpenetrated his body, that now his skin was
+black, tanned, imperishable, like that of a mummy. It was eight years
+since the poor wretch had been lost.</p>
+
+<p>“On quitting this spot of mournful memory, we turned to the left through
+a corridor whose roof and walls were blackened by bituminous vapors, and
+in which it was possible to walk upright. Thousands of bats, attracted
+by the torches, assailed us with a whirr of wings, and considerably
+impeded our progress. We then arrived at the most interesting part of
+the grottoes: the soil, which gave way beneath our feet, was composed of
+the d&eacute;bris of mummies and their swathings; at every step arose a black,
+acrid, nauseating dust, as bitter as a compound of soot and aloes. An
+enormous number of crocodiles of all sizes encumber the galleries. Some
+are black, some corpulent, some gigantic, some not larger than lizards.
+The human mummies and those of birds are side by side with them.” The
+travelers did not reach the end of these interminable galleries. The heat
+was intense, and they grew tired of sickening impressions.</p>
+
+<p>The mystery of the Nile regions above Kartoum were unlocked to geography
+and the scientific world more largely by Colonel Baker’s armed expedition
+than by any other. We shall soon have the pleasure of following him
+to Lake Albert Nyanza in company with his faithful wife, on a journey
+of exploration,
+but<!--237.png--><span class="pagenum">230</span>
+before doing so let us see what he did in the
+Upper Nile valley in an armed way and in the name of humanity and that
+civilization of which we all are justly proud, and thus complete our
+story of the wonderful river on which Egypt depends for its sustenance.</p>
+
+<p>Colonel Baker, on his trip to Albert Nyanza found that at least 15,000
+Arabs, subjects of the Khedive of Egypt, were engaged in the African
+slave trade, with head-quarters at Kartoum, and mostly in the pay of
+merchants there. They were nothing but cruel brigands, well armed and
+officered, and equal to any outrage on the natives to secure slaves and
+other booty. They sowed the seeds of anarchy throughout Africa, and
+contributed to the suspicion, treachery, black-mailing, and every evil
+that cropped out in the chiefs of the African tribes.</p>
+
+<p>He determined to attack this moral cancer by actual cautery at the very
+root of the evil. These brigands were cowardly, and, he thought, could
+be crushed by a show of force, provided it emanated from the Khedive,
+the only sovereign they acknowledge. Therefore the Khedive was asked for
+authority, which he conferred, and Baker started having full power to
+suppress the slave trade, to reduce the countries south of Gondokoro,
+to annex them, to open navigation to the lakes under the equator, to
+establish military stations, to mete out death to all opponents, to
+govern all countries south of Gondokoro.</p>
+
+<p>He took Lady Baker and a goodly number of English assistants along,
+contracted for provisions for four years, supplied himself with money,
+trinkets, tools, and a total of 36 vessels, six of which were small
+steamers, to be increased to 55 vessels and 9 steamers at Kartoum. The
+armed force consisted of 1,645 troops, 200 of which were cavalry, and two
+batteries of artillery. The troops were of the forces of the Khedive,
+half Egyptians and half natives of Soudan, the latter colored and by far
+the best warriors. There is something to be admired in these Soudanese
+soldiers. They are active, willing, brave and perfectly submissive to
+kind discipline. They have taste, skill and are acclimated. In their
+tribes they perpetuate traits which must have come down from old Egyptian
+times. Among the wives, especially
+of<!--238.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">231</a></span>
+chiefs a favorite head dress is
+one which is supposed to reflect the appearance of the honored sphinxes,
+and it is, to say the least, very becoming.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;">
+<img src="images/i_231.jpg" width="419" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">CHIEF’S WIFE IN SPHINX HEAD DRESS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Every precaution was taken to have all assemble at Kartoum, but the
+expedition was not popular in Egypt, the boats could not be gotten over
+the Nile cataracts, and months rolled away before the Colonel got ready
+to start. The fleet of thirty-three vessels in which he did start were
+nearly all prepared at Kartoum. On these he embarked 1400 men for his
+voyage of 1450 miles to Gondokoro. His cavalry was dismissed as useless,
+and<!--239.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">232</a></span>
+his body guard was made up of a corps of picked men, forty-six
+in all, half of whom were white and half black, that there might be
+no conspiracy among them, and that the one might stimulate the other.
+This guard was put into perfect drill, armed with the Snider rifle, and
+named “The Forty Thieves,” on account of the propensity they at first
+manifested. They afterwards became models of military discipline.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_232.jpg" width="600" height="510"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE FORTY THIEVES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On February 8, 1870, two small steamers and thirty-one sailing vessels
+started up the White Nile from Kartoum, with 850 soldiers and six months’
+provisions. The rest were to follow as fast as transports could be
+supplied. In five days they were at Fashoda, in the Shillook country, 118
+miles from Kartoum. On February 16 they reached the mouth of the Sobat,
+684<!--240.png--><span class="pagenum">233</span>
+miles from Kartoum. This stream was then sending down a volume of
+muddy water much larger than the White Nile itself.</p>
+
+<p>They were now in the region of immense flats and boundless marshes
+through which the White Nile soaks and winds for 750 miles from
+Gondokoro. The river proper is almost wholly obstructed by compressed
+vegetation known as “sponge,” and at points this is so thick as to defy
+the passage of boats without cutting. But the slavers had discovered
+another route through an arm or bayou called the Bahr Giraffe, and this
+Baker determined to take. The Bahr Giraffe proved to be winding, but deep
+enough at first. Like the White Nile, its waters and banks abounded in
+game, the first specimen of the larger kind of which proved to be a lion,
+which bounded off to cover on the approach of the boats.</p>
+
+<p>By February 25, they were in a mass of floating vegetation through which
+a canal had to be cut. These obstructions now became frequent and could
+only be pierced by means of canals and dams. On March 5, the Colonel was
+roused from a nap on the steamer’s deck by a shock, followed by a cry
+“The ship’s sinking!” A hippopotamus had charged the steamer from the
+bottom, and then had attacked her small boat, cutting two holes through
+her iron plates with his tusks. The diah-beeah was only kept from sinking
+by the aid of the steamer’s pumps.</p>
+
+<p>Obstructions became thicker and canal cutting almost continuous. The men
+got sick with fever. The grass swarmed with snakes and poisonous ants.
+The black troops proved hardier and more patient than the Egyptians.
+There were some ducks but not enough to supply meat for all. The Colonel
+discovered a hippopotamus some distance off and ordered a boat to pull
+for him. He disappeared on its approach, but soon reappeared about thirty
+yards away. The Colonel planted a bullet in his head. The animal sank,
+but was found floating near the fleet the next morning. The men speedily
+cut him up and were delighted with their supply of fresh meat.</p>
+
+<p>On March 21, while the men were digging out the steamers which had become
+blocked by the floating masses of
+vegetation,<!--241.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">234</a></span>
+they felt something
+struggling beneath their feet. Scrambling away, they beheld the head of
+a crocodile protruding through the sudd. The black soldiers, armed with
+swords and bill-hooks, attacked him, and soon his flesh gladdened the
+cooking pots of the Soudan regiment.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_234.jpg" width="600" height="524"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A CROCODILE MOBBED IN THE SUDD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In thirteen days the fleet only made twelve miles through the sudd,
+although a thousand men were at work all the time cutting and tugging.
+The Egyptians fell sick by scores, and many died. On March 27, another
+hippopotamus was killed, which gave the men a supply of fresh meat.
+Several buffaloes were also killed.</p>
+
+<p>After having wasted fifty-one days since leaving Kartoum, it was
+discovered that the Bahr Giraffe became too shallow
+for<!--242.png--><span class="pagenum">235</span>
+further venture.
+Return was therefore compulsory, much to the disgust of the officers but
+to the great satisfaction of the troops. The whole season was lost, for
+no other route was practicable till there should come a flush of waters.
+And the return was hardly less difficult than the upward progress. The
+canals they had cut were filled with vegetable masses and had to be
+re-opened. But they finally reached the White Nile again and in time
+to intercept a Turkish slave party who had been raiding the Shillooks.
+Seventy-one slaves were found closely stowed away in their boat and
+eighty-four concealed on shore, under guard. These were liberated, and
+both slaves and captors informed that slavery had been abolished by the
+Khedive’s order.</p>
+
+<p>The party sailed down the White Nile to its junction with the Sobat and
+there, on high, hard ground, prepared a permanent camp&mdash;really a little
+town with houses and workshops. The acquaintance of the Shillooks was
+made and cordial relations established. They brought their vegetables to
+camp to sell, and proved very kind and useful. But they had been greatly
+demoralized by the Arab kidnappers, as had all the tribes on both sides
+of the river.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after they were stationed here a sail was observed bearing down the
+river. It proved to be that of the boat from which the slaves had been
+liberated up near the mouth of the Bahr Giraffe. It was ordered to stop
+and found to be loaded with corn. But there was an awkward smell about
+the forecastle. An officer drew a ramrod from a rifle and began to poke
+the corn. A cry came from beneath and a wooly head protruded. A woman
+was dragged forth by the arm. Then the planking was broken and the hold
+found full of slaves, packed like sardines in a barrel. Orders were given
+to immediately unload the vessel. One hundred and fifty slaves, many of
+them manacled, were taken out of that small, stench-ridden place. The
+slaves were released and the officers and crew of the boat put in irons.
+The former consisted of men and women. All were given freedom papers,
+and allowed the privilege of returning home. Those who did not wish to
+go might
+remain<!--243.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">236</a></span>
+and they would be treated well. The women might marry
+the soldiers if they chose. Strange to say they all selected soldier
+husbands, and there would have been a grand wedding day after the African
+fashion, if Colonel Baker had not limited the engagements to a few at a
+time.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_236.jpg" width="600" height="514"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">RELEASE OF THE SLAVES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Land was cleared around the encampment, and all hands kept to work at
+mechanics, farming, hunting, etc. Meanwhile Colonel Baker went to Kartoum
+with his steamers and a fleet of sail boats for a supply of corn. He then
+returned and prospected up the White Nile only to find it hopelessly
+obstructed, unless a special expedition were sent up to cut away “the
+sponge” and other vegetable obstructions. He also found out that most
+of the leaders of the very brigands he was sent out to capture were in
+league with the home authorities, and that they
+had<!--244.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">237</a></span>
+territory assigned
+them in which to operate, for which privilege they paid good round sums
+annually. He was therefore in the dilemma of openly serving a government
+which was secretly opposing him.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_237.jpg" width="600" height="508"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NIGHT ATTACK ON THE BOATS BY A HIPPOPOTAMUS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>By December 1, 1870, at which time the Upper Nile would be in flood
+and the season propitious, he expected to start again from his camp at
+Tewfikeeyah for Gondokoro. But it was December 11 before his full fleet
+of twenty-six vessels got off. Not daring to risk the White Nile, he
+turned off again through the Bahr-Giraffe, which he found more open.
+Nevertheless canals had to be frequently cut through the vegetable
+obstructions, and nearly the same incidents as the year before were
+repeated. When they arrived at the shallows, there
+was<!--245.png--><span class="pagenum">238</span>
+not water enough
+and the boats had to be dragged over the bars, after discharging part of
+their cargoes.</p>
+
+<p>Finally the White Nile was reached again, and all were thankful. Their
+last adventure in the Bafr Giraffe was with a hippopotamus which, in the
+night, dashed furiously on the small boats. The zinc boat was loaded with
+flesh. With one blow he demolished this. In another instant he seized
+the dingy in his immense jaws, and the crash of splintered wood told of
+its complete destruction. He then attacked, with a blind fury, the steam
+launch, and received shot after shot. Retreating for a time, he returned
+to the attack with even greater fury, when he received a ball in the
+head which keeled him over. He was evidently a character of the worst
+description for his body was literally covered with scars and wounds
+received in fights with bulls of his own species.</p>
+
+<p>By March 10, all the vessels were afloat on the White Nile, and their
+further upward journey began. In a month (April 15) they were all
+safely at Gondokoro, 330 miles from Bahr Giraffe junction and 1400
+from Kartoum. Gondokoro was much broken up and nearly depopulated. The
+Austrian Missionaries were gone and the place given over to raiders and
+kidnappers. The Bari tribes, great fighters and hunters, were in the
+employ of the Arab slave dealers, and Gondokoro was their headquarters.
+They received Colonel Baker coldly, for though they did not want to be
+slaves themselves, they had no objections to lending their aid to the
+Arab brigands to take slaves from other tribes, provided they were well
+paid for it.</p>
+
+<p>A military station was founded at Gondokoro, on high ground, and as
+the river was now too low to proceed further, Baker’s army went into
+permanent quarters. Ground was planted in vegetables and corn, houses
+were built, boats were repaired, and an air of business pervaded the
+place. The Bari never fully reconciled themselves to Baker’s presence,
+preferring no government at all. They are a pastoral people, possessing
+large herds of cattle and living well. The men are tall and powerful, and
+the women not unprepossessing. But they have been so badly demoralized
+by the slave dealers as to be
+hostile<!--246.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">239</a></span>
+to white men and to every form
+of restraint. They were clearly in with the brigands to starve Baker’s
+expedition out and force it to return to Kartoum.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 327px;">
+<img src="images/i_239.jpg" width="327" height="450"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A SOUDAN WARRIOR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Baker formally annexed all this country to Egypt, and promulgated a code
+of laws for its government. This brought him into actual war with all
+the Bari tribes and collisions were frequent, in which the natives were
+generally worsted. There were enemies in the water too, for the Nile at
+Gondokoro literally swarms with crocodiles. One of these animals tore
+an<!--247.png--><span class="pagenum">240</span>
+arm off a sailor, and another seized and devoured a washer woman who
+went into the water to do her washing. Many were killed by the men. Once
+the Colonel shot a very large one, measuring twelve feet six inches long.
+It was supposed to be dead and the men, having fastened a rope around its
+neck, began to pull it up the bank. It suddenly came to life and opened
+its huge jaws. The men ran off in fright, and could not be induced to
+return till another bullet was lodged in its skull.</p>
+
+<p>The “Forty Thieves” were now a most efficient part of Colonel Baker’s
+forces. The Egyptians had been gradually eliminated, so that now nearly
+all were blacks from the Soudan. They had ceased to steal, and were
+models of bravery and soldierly drill and obedience. They became good
+shots and grew to know their superiority over the native spearmen. The
+entire force at Gondokoro numbered 1100 soldiers and 400 sailors. They
+were constantly menaced by the Bari, and never slept except under guard.</p>
+
+<p>At length the various hostile tribes formed a coalition and, inflamed
+by the slave dealers, made a combined night attack. They were received
+so hotly that they soon dispersed, with the loss of many men. In this
+instance the fire of the “Forty Thieves” was most effective, and the
+natives declared they were more afraid of them than all the rest of the
+army. Watching from this time on was unceasing, and various offensive
+expeditions were fitted out whose business was to subdue the tribes by
+piece meal and make them acquainted with the new authorities and with the
+fact that dealing in slaves could no longer be tolerated on the White
+Nile nor in any country which might be annexed to Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>Baker had found out to his regret that he could not establish monthly
+boat service between Gondokoro and Kartoum, as he had intended, owing to
+the formidable obstacles in the White Nile. Disease carried off his men
+and horses. A drought blighted the gardens and fields around his camp. By
+October, 1871, a conspiracy to desert and return to Kartoum cropped out,
+which involved all his troops except the
+“Forty<!--248.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">241</a></span>
+Thieves.” To prevent
+this the vessels were run up the river on a prospecting tour. They made
+the discovery that corn in plenty existed in the Bari regions beyond. But
+it could not be bought. Whom these cunning natives could not drive out
+they were bound to starve out. The corn had therefore to be taken. It was
+a great relief to the garrison to know that they were not far from a land
+of abundance.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_241.jpg" width="600" height="524"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NIGHT ATTACK ON GONDOKORO STATION.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Still Colonel Baker thought it prudent to weed out his discontented
+forces and especially to get rid of the long list of women, children and
+sick who were now a burden. He therefore sent thirty vessels back to
+Kartoum in November. Besides a goodly supply of corn, they took along
+1100 persons, leaving him with a force of about 550 soldiers and sailors.
+With
+this<!--249.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">242</a></span>
+small force he was left to subdue hostile tribes, suppress
+the slave trade and annex the country. It seemed to him that the slave
+dealers had gained their point and defeated the object of the expedition.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_242.jpg" width="600" height="538"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ELEPHANTS IN TROUBLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Yet he persisted. Small land and river expeditions were sent out in all
+directions for the purpose of subjugating natives and crushing slave
+parties. It was on one of these that a herd of eleven bull elephants was
+seen from the deck of the vessel. Men were landed who surrounded them
+and drove them into the river. They swam to the opposite side, but the
+banks were high and the water deep. They were within rifle range from
+the vessel, and began tearing down the banks with their tusks in order
+to climb up. Fire was opened on them, which
+kept<!--250.png--><span class="pagenum">243</span>
+them in a state of
+confusion. At one time several mounted the bank, but it gave way and
+precipitated them all into the water. At last one got on firm ground and
+exposed his flank. A ball struck him behind the shoulder which sent him
+into the river. His struggles brought him within twenty yards of the
+vessel. Another bullet went crashing through his brain and despatched
+him. Another one was killed before the ammunition was exhausted. The
+carcasses of both became the prize of the men, and strange to say, many
+of the hostile natives, attracted to the spot by the firing, professed to
+be very friendly in order that they might share the rich elephant steaks.
+They preferred this meat to that of their own cattle, of which they had
+plenty.</p>
+
+<p>By November, Colonel Baker called in all his expeditions. He had
+established peace throughout a wide section, and set free the slaves
+captured by several large parties. The war with the Baris was virtually
+over. But the slave dealers had only changed their base of operations.
+They had gone further south and would there stir up the same trouble they
+had incited among the Bari.</p>
+
+<p>When all had re-assembled at Gondokoro, preparations were set on foot for
+a movement further south, the general course to be the line of the White
+Nile. While these were going on, those who had leisure devoted themselves
+to hunting, and studying the animal, mineral and vegetable resources.
+It was a country of great natural wealth. Iron and salt abounded.
+Tobacco, beans, corn, hemp and cotton could easily be raised. Nearly
+every tropical fruit was found in abundance. There was good fishing in
+the rivers, and plenty of ducks and other small game in the lakes and
+ponds. Every now and then the hunters had an adventure with hippopotami,
+whose attacks were always dangerous. Elephants were very plenty in all
+the region about Gondokoro. They saw them singly and in herds, and had
+fine opportunity to study their habits. They are fond of the fruit of the
+“Keglik” tree, which resembles a date. If the tree be small they quickly
+tear it up by the roots and eat the fruit at leisure. If it be large&mdash;and
+they frequently grow to a diameter of three feet&mdash;the animal butts his
+forehead against the tree
+till<!--251.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">244</a></span>
+it quivers in every branch and showers
+its fruit down upon the delighted animal.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_244.jpg" width="600" height="513"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SHAKING FRUIT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On January 23, 1872, the expedition was off, a garrison having been
+left at Gondokoro. Its final destination was the Unyoro country, just
+north of Victoria Nyanza and east of Albert Nyanza. We will hear of
+all these names again and become familiar with them. The expedition
+started under excellent auspices, except as to numbers. The “Forty
+Thieves” were staunch and brave, and all the Sudani soldiers were in
+good spirits. The Colonel’s light steamer led the way, followed by the
+heavier vessels. This gave him fine opportunity to prospect the country
+and enjoy occasional hunts. The mountains of Regiaf abut on the White
+Nile, about fifty or sixty
+miles<!--252.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">245</a></span>
+above Gondokoro. In their midst is a
+fine cataract and much beautiful scenery. The geological formation is
+very peculiar. One curiosity was noted in the shape of an immense Syenite
+slab, forty-five feet long and as many wide, resting like a table on a
+hard clay pedestal. This stone is reverenced by the Baris, and they think
+that any person who sleeps under it will surely die.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_245.jpg" width="600" height="518"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">TABLE ROCK AT REGIAF.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The vessels could not go beyond the Regiaf cataract, and a journey
+overland to the Labor&eacute; country was projected. But all attempts to employ
+native carriers failed. The soldiers of Baker’s own force refused to
+draw the loaded carts. There was nothing left but to organize a small,
+light-armed and light-loaded force, and try the land journey in this way.
+This force started in February. The guide was old Lokko, a
+rainmaker<!--253.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">246</a></span>
+of
+Labor&eacute;. Mrs. Baker went along, accompanied by a train of female carriers.
+They drove a herd of 1000 cows and 500 sheep. The country was thickly
+populated and teeming with plenty. The Labor&eacute; country was reached, after
+a sixty mile tramp, and they were in the midst of friends&mdash;the hated
+and hostile Baris having been left behind. Carriers could now be had in
+abundance and the journeys were rapid to the Asua, the largest tributary
+of the White Nile.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_246.jpg" width="600" height="524"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NATIVE DANCE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Here was a grand country. There were high mountains and fertile valleys,
+fine forests and plenty of game. The march now lay toward Fatiko, the
+capital of the Shooli. It lies at the base of the Shooa mountains,
+amid the most picturesque scenery, 85 miles from Labor&eacute; and 185 from
+Gondokoro. A grand
+entry<!--254.png--><span class="pagenum">247</span>
+into the town was made. The “Forty Thieves”
+and the rest of the troops were put into complete marching order. The
+band was ordered to play. There was a kind of dress parade and sham
+fight, mingled with drum and bugle sounds and the blare of the band. The
+manœuvres pleased the natives very much. They are fond of music, and as
+the troops reached a camping spot, the women of the village clustered
+around, assumed dancing attitudes, and in nature’s costume indulged in
+one of their characteristic fandanges, the old women proving even more
+inveterate dancers than the young.</p>
+
+<p>Baker established a military station at Fatiko, leaving a detachment
+of 100 out of his 212 men. On March 18, 1872, he started for Unyoro.
+Though the intermediate country is rich in vegetation, it is uninhabited
+except by tropical animals, and is a common hunting ground for the tribes
+on either side. The Unyoros live east and north of Victoria Nyanza
+Lake. They are a numerous people, but not so stalwart as the Labor&eacute;s
+or Schooli. Their soil is rich, and tobacco grows to an immense size.
+Their town of Masindi, twenty miles east of lake Albert Nyanza, whose
+waters can be seen from the summits of the mountains, was reached by
+the expedition on April 25. The country was placed under the protection
+of the Khedive, and the chief Kabba-Rega, son of Kamrasi, was made
+acquainted with the fact that hereafter slavery was prohibited.
+This tribe had been at times heavily raided by slave hunters, and
+their pens in different parts of the country were even then full of
+captives&mdash;probably 1000 in all. The natives themselves, as is usual with
+African tribes, only saw harm in this when the captives were of their own
+tribe. “Steal from everybody but from <i>me</i>,” seems to be their idea of
+the eighth commandment.</p>
+
+<p>The expedition remained for some time in Masindi and attempted to
+establish a permanent military station. But the slave hunters seemed to
+have more power over the natives than Baker with his drilled forces and
+show of Egyptian authority. The chief and his subjects grew suspicious
+and finally hostile. They attacked Baker, and the result of the fight
+was their defeat and the destruction of their town by fire. Such an
+atmosphere<!--255.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">248</a></span>
+was not congenial to peace and regular authority. Therefore a
+retreat was ordered toward Rionga on the Victoria Nile. But how to make
+it? Every surrounding was hostile. Porters could be had with difficulty.
+Worst of all, provisions were exhausted. At this critical moment Mrs.
+Baker came to the rescue with a woman’s wit and prudence. She had been
+laying up a reserve of flour when it was plenty, and now she brought
+forth what was deemed a supply for several days.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_248.jpg" width="600" height="504"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ATTACK BY AMBUSCADE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On June 14, 1872, the station at Masindi was destroyed, and the
+expedition started on its backward journey amid hostile demonstrations by
+the natives. The journey was almost like a running battle. Day attacks
+were frequent, and scarcely a night passed without an attempt at a
+surprise. The “Forty
+Thieves”<!--256.png--><span class="pagenum">249</span>
+became the main-stay of the expedition.
+They were ever on the alert, and proved very formidable with their trusty
+Snider rifles. They grew to know where ambuscades were to be expected,
+and were quick to dispose themselves so as to make defence complete or
+first attack formidable. They never fired without an object, and only
+when they had dead aim. And they knew the value of cover against the
+lances of the enemy. Their losses were therefore small, while they played
+havoc with the enemy, seldom failing to rout them, or to conduct an
+honorable retreat.</p>
+
+<p>At length they struck the Victoria Nile at Foweera, fifteen miles below
+Rionga Islands. Here they built a stockade, and began to build canoes
+with which to cross the river which was 500 yards wide. Word was sent up
+to Rionga. The chief came and proved friendly. He informed the Colonel of
+the plot between Kabba Rega and the Arab slave hunters to drive him out
+of the country, and declared that he would be faithful to the Khedive’s
+authority. Whereupon Baker declared him chief instead of Kabba, and
+endowed him with full authority over the natives, in the name of the
+Khedive. Unyoro thus had a new king. He was left with a complement of
+Baker’s small army as a guard and nucleus, and the Colonel started down
+the river in canoes for his post at Fatiko. His small garrison, left
+there, received him gladly, but scarcely was the reception over when an
+attack was made upon it by the slave hunters. They were well prepared and
+determined. From behind huts and other places of safety they began to
+pick off the soldiers, and a charge of the “Forty Thieves” was ordered.
+It was brilliantly executed, and resulted in the dislodgment of the enemy
+and their pursuit for many miles with great slaughter and the capture of
+many prisoners, among whom were some 135 of their slaves.</p>
+
+<p>This battle resulted in the driving out of Abou Saood, the leader of the
+slave hunters, and the man who had rented the whole country from the
+authorities at Kartoum for the purpose of brigandage. He went to Cairo
+to complain of the treatment he had received at the hands of Baker and
+his party, and
+actually<!--258.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">251</a></span>
+circulated the report that he and Mrs. Baker had
+been killed on the head-waters of the Nile.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_250.jpg" width="600" height="351"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">DRIVING A PRAIRIE WITH FIRE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A strong fortification was built at Fatiko, which was finished by
+December, and reinforcements were sent for from Gondokoro. It was the
+hunting season, and many expeditions were organized for the capture
+of game, in which the natives joined with a hearty good will. Besides
+the rifle in skilled hands, the net of the natives for the capture of
+antelope and smaller game was much relied on, and once all enjoyed the
+magnificent sight of a tropical prairie on fire, with its leaping game of
+royal proportions, to be brought down almost at will, provided the hunter
+was not demoralized with its number and size.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_251.jpg" width="600" height="510"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AFFECTIONATE RESULTS OF FREEDOM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>While at Fatiko, an embassy came from King Mtesa of
+the<!--259.png--><span class="pagenum">252</span>
+Uganda
+professing friendship and offering an army of 6000 men for,&mdash;he did not
+know what, but to punish any natives who might appear to be antagonistic,
+especially Kabba Rega.</p>
+
+<p>By March, 1873, reinforcements from Gondokoro arrived in pitiable plight.
+Baker’s forces were now 620 strong. He re-inforced his various military
+stations. Then he liberated the numerous slaves the upward troops had
+taken from the slave hunters. Most of these were women and back in their
+native country. They accepted liberty with demonstrations of joy, rushed
+to the officers and men on whom they lavished hugs and kisses, and danced
+away in a delirium of excitement.</p>
+
+<p>Colonel Baker’s time would expire in April. Therefore he timed his return
+to Gondokoro so as to be there by the first of the month, 1873. The whole
+situation was changed. There was scarcely a vestige of the neat station
+he had left. The slave dealers had carried things with a high hand, and
+had demoralized the troops. Filth and disorder had taken the place of
+cleanliness and discipline. Things were put to rights by May, and on the
+25 of that month Baker started down the Nile, leaving his “Forty Thieves”
+as part of the Gondokoro garrison.</p>
+
+<p>On June 29, Colonel Baker, Mrs. Baker and the officers of this celebrated
+expedition arrived at Kartoum, and reached Cairo on August 24, whence
+they sailed for England.</p>
+
+<p>He concludes his history thus:&mdash;“The first steps in establishing
+the authority of a new government among tribes hitherto savage and
+intractable were of necessity accompanied by military operations. War
+is inseparable from annexation, and the law of force, resorted to in
+self-defence, was absolutely indispensable to prove the superiority of
+the power that was eventually to govern. The end justified the means.</p>
+
+<p>“At the commencement of the expedition I had felt that the object of the
+enterprise&mdash;‘the suppression of the slave trade’&mdash;was one for which I
+could confidently ask a blessing.</p>
+
+<p>“A firm belief in Providential support has not been unrewarded. In the
+midst of sickness and malaria we had strength; from acts of treachery we
+were preserved unharmed; in personal encounters we remained unscathed. In
+the end, every
+opposition<!--260.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">253</a></span>
+was overcome: hatred and subordination yielded
+to discipline and order. A paternal government extended its protection
+through lands hitherto a field for anarchy and slavery. The territory
+within my rule was purged from the slave trade. The natives of the great
+Shooli tribe, relieved from their oppressors, clung to the protecting
+government. The White Nile, for a distance of 1,600 miles from Kartoum to
+Central Africa, was cleansed from the abomination of a traffic which had
+hitherto sullied its waters.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 408px;">
+<img src="images/i_253.jpg" width="408" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">GORDON AS MANDARIN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--261.png--><span class="pagenum">254</span></p>
+
+<p>“Every cloud had passed away, and the term of my office expired in peace
+and sunshine. In this result, I humbly traced God’s blessing.”</p>
+
+<p>Baker’s picture is much overdrawn. The situation in the Soudan has never
+been promising. In 1874, Colonel James Gordon was made Governor General
+of all these equatorial provinces which Baker had annexed to Egypt.
+Gordon was a brave enthusiast, who had acquired the title of “Chinese”
+Gordon, because he had organized an army at Shanghai, and, as Brigadier,
+helped the Chinese Government to put down a dangerous rebellion. He
+had received the order of Mandarin, had infinite faith in himself, and
+a wonderful faculty for controlling the unruly elements in oriental
+countries. He did some wonderful work in the Soudan in suppressing the
+slave-trade, disarming the Bashi-Bazouks, reconciling the natives, and
+preventing the Government at Cairo from parcelling out these equatorial
+districts to Arab slave dealers. He worked hard, organized quite an army,
+and had a power in the Soudan which was imperial, and which he turned to
+good uses. But in 1879, he differed with the Khedive and resigned. Then
+England and France deposed the Khedive, Ismial, and set up Tewfik, under
+pretext of financial reform. But these two countries could not agree as
+to a financial policy. France withdrew, and left England to work out the
+Egyptian problem. The problem is all in a nutshell. English ascendancy
+in Egypt is deemed necessary to protect the Suez Canal and her water
+way to India. For this she bombarded and reduced Alexandria in 1882 and
+established a suzerainty over Egypt&mdash;Turkey giving forced assent, and
+France refusing to join in the mix.</p>
+
+<p>The new Khedive was helpless&mdash;purposely so. England planted within Egypt
+an army of occupation and took virtual directorship of her institutions.
+But the provinces all around, especially those newly annexed by
+Baker, revolted. Their Moslem occupants would not acknowledge English
+interference and sovereignty. Soudan was in rebellion both east and west
+of the Nile. England sent several small armies toward the interior and
+fought many doubtful battles. At length the project of
+reducing<!--262.png--><span class="pagenum">255</span>
+the
+Soudan was given over. But how to get the garrisons out of the leading
+strongholds in safety became a great problem. That at Kartoum was the
+largest, numbering several hundred, with a large contingent of women and
+children. It would be death for any of these garrisons to leave their
+fortifications and try boats down the Nile, or escape by camel
+back<!--263.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">256</a></span>
+across the desert. Yet England was committed to the duty of relieving
+them.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 304px;">
+<img src="images/i_255.jpg" width="304" height="450"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PORTRAIT OF GORDON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The rebellion was under the lead of the Mahdi, a Moslem prophet, who
+claimed to be raised up to save his people and religion. His followers
+were numerous and desperate. Gordon thought the old influence he had
+acquired over these people when Governor General of the Soudan, would
+avail him for the purpose of getting the forlorn garrisons away in
+safety. He was therefore re-appointed Governor General in 1884, and
+started with Colonel Stewart for Kartoum. There they were besieged for
+ten months by the Mahdi’s troops, and there Gordon was killed (January
+27, 1885) by the enemy, and all his garrison surrendered or were killed.
+The English sent an army of 8,000 men up the Nile to rescue Gordon, and
+part of it got nearly to Kartoum, when word of the sad fate that had
+befallen the garrison reached it. The expedition retreated, and since
+then the Soudan and Upper Nile have been given over to the old Arab and
+slave stealing element.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><!--264.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">257</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>
+SOURCES OF THE NILE.
+</h2>
+
+<p>By reversing the map of North America&mdash;turning it upside down&mdash;you get
+a good river map of Africa. The Mississippi, rising in a lake system
+and flowing into the gulf of Mexico, becomes the Nile flowing into the
+Mediterranean&mdash;both long water-ways. The St. Lawrence, rising in and
+draining the most magnificent lake system in the world, from Huron to
+Ontario, will represent the Congo, rising in and draining a lake system
+which may prove to be of equal extent and beauty. Both are heavy,
+voluminous streams, full of rapids and majestic falls. The Columbia River
+will represent the Zambesi, flowing into the Indian Ocean.</p>
+
+<p>Civilized man has, perhaps, known the African Continent the longest,
+yet he knows it least. Its centre has been a mystery to him since the
+earliest ages. If the Egyptian geographer traced the first chart, and the
+astronomer there first noted the motion of sun, moon and stars; if on the
+Nile the first mariner tried his bark on water; it was but yesterday that
+the distant and hidden sources of the great stream were revealed, and it
+is around these sources that the geographer and naturalist have now the
+largest field for discovery, and in their midst that the traveller and
+hunter have the finest fields for romance and adventure.</p>
+
+<p>The Mississippi has in three centuries become as familiar as the Rhine.
+The Nile, known always, has ever nestled its head in Africa’s unknown
+Lake Region, safe because of mangrove swamp and arid waste. But now
+that the secret of its sources is out, and with it the fact of a high
+and delightful inner Africa, full of running streams and far stretching
+lakes, of rich tropical verdure and abundant animal life, is the dream a
+foolish one that here are the possibilities of an empire whose commerce,
+agriculture, wealth and enlightenment shall make it as powerful and
+bright as its past has been impotent and dark?</p>
+
+<p><!--265.png--><span class="pagenum">258</span></p>
+
+<p>We have known Africa under the delusion that it was a desert, with a
+fringe of vegetation on the sea coast and in the valley of the Nile.
+“Africs burning sands” and her benighted races are the beginning and end
+of our school thoughts of the “Dark Continent.” True, her Sahara is the
+most unmitigated desert in the world, running from the Atlantic Ocean
+clear to the Tigris in Asia&mdash;for the Red Sea is only a gulf in its midst.
+True, there is another desert in the far South, almost as blank. These,
+with their drifting sands, long caravans, ghastly skeletons, fierce
+Bedouin wanderers, friendly oases, have furnished descriptions well
+calculated to interest and thrill. But they are by no means the Africa of
+the future. They are as the shell of an egg, whose life and wonder are in
+the centre.</p>
+
+<p>There are many old stories of African exploration. One is to the effect
+that a Phœnician vessel, sent out by Pharaoh Necho, left the Red
+Sea and in three years appeared at the Straits of Gibraltar, having
+circumnavigated the Continent. But it required the inducement of
+commercial gain to fix its boundaries exactly, to give it place on the
+map of the world. Not until a pathway to the east became a commercial
+necessity, and a short “North West Passage” a brilliant hope, did the
+era of Arctic adventure begin. The same necessity, and the same hope for
+a “South East Passage,” led the Portuguese to try all the western coast
+of Africa for a short cut to the Orient. For seventy years they coasted
+in vain, till in 1482 Diaz rounded the “Cape of Storms,” afterwards
+called Cape of Good Hope. Twelve years later Vasco de Gama ran the first
+European vessel into the ports of India.</p>
+
+<p>The first permanent stream found by the Portuguese on going down the
+Atlantic, or west, coast of Africa was the Senegal River. They thought
+it a western outlet of the Nile. Here Europe first saw that luxuriant,
+inter-tropical Africa which differed so much from the Africa of
+traditions and school books. They knew that something else than a sandy
+waste was necessary to support a river like the Senegal. They had been
+used to seeing and reading of the tawny Bedouin wanderers, but south
+of this river they found a black, stout, well made
+people,<!--266.png--><span class="pagenum">259</span>
+who in
+contradistinction to the thin, tawny, short Moors of the desert, became
+Black Moors&mdash;“black-a-moors.” And in contrast with the dry, sandy,
+treeless plains of Sahara they actually found a country verdant, woody,
+fertile and rolling.</p>
+
+<p>Unhappily the wrongs of the negro began with his first contact with
+Europeans. The Portuguese took him home as a specimen. He then became a
+slave. The moral sense of Europe was still medieval. Her maritime nations
+fastened like leeches on the west coast of Africa and sucked her life
+blood. Millions of her children were carried off to Brazil, the West
+Indies, the Spanish Main, and the British colonies in North America and
+elsewhere. Much as we abhor the slave system of Africa as carried on at
+present by Turkish dealers, it is no more inhuman than that practiced for
+three hundred years by the Christian nations of Europe.</p>
+
+<p>This slave trade was fatal to discovery and research in Africa, such as
+was warranted by the knowledge which the Portuguese brought, and which
+is now warranted, and being realized too, by the recent revelations of
+Stanley, Livingstone and others. The slaver could not, because he dared
+not, venture far from his rendezvous on the river or in the lagoon where
+his victims were collected. He kept his haunts a secret, and closed
+the doors on all who would be likely to interfere with his gains. Not
+until slavery received its death blow among civilized nations did they
+begin to set permanent feet, in a spirit of scientific and christian
+inquiry, on the interior soil of Africa, and to map out its blank spaces
+with magnificent lakes and rivers. Then began to come those stirring
+narratives of travel by Mungo Park, Landers and Clapperton, who tracked
+the course of the Niger River. Then began that northern march of sturdy
+and permanent Dutch and English colonists who are carrying their
+cultivation and civilization from the Southern Cape to the Kalihari
+Desert, the southern equivalent of the Sahara. Then also a Liberian Free
+State became possible, founded and ruled by the children of those who had
+been ruthlessly stolen from their happy equatorial homes and sold into
+bondage in the United States.</p>
+
+<p><!--267.png--><span class="pagenum">260</span></p>
+
+<p>Between the two sterile tracts of Africa lies the real Continent. All
+the coast lands are a shell. Egypt is but a strip on either side the
+Nile. Central Africa&mdash;the Lake regions which feed the Nile, Congo and
+Zambesi&mdash;is a great and grand section, where nature has been prodigal
+in all her gifts, and which invites a civilization as unique and strong
+as its physical features. We may wonder at the strange things revealed
+by Arctic research, but here are unrivalled chains of lake and river
+communication, and powerful states with strange peoples and customs, of
+which the last generation never dreamed. No spot of all the earth invites
+to such adventure as this, and none profiteth so much in the revelations
+which add to science and which may be turned to account in commerce and
+the progress of civilization.</p>
+
+<p>We have read the roll of names rendered immortal by efforts to reach the
+two Poles of the earth. Africa’s list of explorers contains the names of
+Livingstone, Gordon, Cameron, Speke, Grant, Burton, Baker, Schweinfurth,
+Stanley, Kirk, Van der Decken, Elton, Pinto, Johnston, and others, some
+of whom have laid down their lives in the cause of science, and every one
+recalling memories of gigantic difficulties grappled with, of dangers
+boldly encountered, of sufferings bravely borne, of great achievements
+performed, and all within the space of twenty years.</p>
+
+<p>Before entering these Lake Regions of Africa to see what they contain,
+it is due to the past to recall the fact that an old chart of the
+African Continent was published at Rome in 1591, which contains a
+system of equatorial lakes and rivers. It shows the Blue Nile coming
+out of Abyssinia, and the White Nile taking its rise in two great lakes
+under the equator&mdash;the Victoria Nyanza of Speke, and the Albert Nyanza
+of Baker. Due south from Albert Nyanza is another lake which is the
+equivalent of Tanganyika, and this is not only connected with the Congo
+but with the Nile and Zambesi. Cameron and Stanley have both shown that
+Tanganyika sends its surplus waters, if any it has, to the Congo, and
+Livingstone has proven that the head waters of these two mighty rivers
+are intimately
+connected.<!--268.png--><span class="pagenum">261</span>
+Is this ancient map a happy guess, or does it
+present facts which afterwards fell into oblivion? Ere the slave trade
+put its ban between the coast traders and the dwellers of the interior,
+ere Portuguese influence ceased in Abyssinia, and the missions of the
+Congo left off communications with Rome, did these unknown regions yield
+their secrets to the then existing civilization? May not this geographic
+scrap, dug from among the rubbish of the Vatican library, be the sole
+relic now extant of a race of medieval explorers the fame of whose
+adventures has fallen dumb, and whose labors have to be gone over again?</p>
+
+<p>The map of Africa, used in our school days, had a blank centre. No
+geographer had soiled its white expanse with lines and figures. It was
+the “happy hunting ground” of conjecture and fancy. The Zambesi and Congo
+were short stumps of rivers, with perhaps a dotted line to tell what was
+not known. When two traders&mdash;the Pombeiros&mdash;passed from Angola on the
+west to the Pacific, in the beginning of the present century, and wrote
+how they had crossed a hundred rivers, visited the courts of powerful
+negro kings, traversed countries where the people had made considerable
+progress in the industries and arts, their story, like that of other
+pioneers, was discredited and their information treated with contemptuous
+neglect.</p>
+
+<p>But about thirty years ago the modern world was startled and gratified
+with its first glimpse at the Lake Regions of Africa. In 1849,
+Livingstone, Oswell and Murray, after weary marching across the Kalihari,
+or southern, desert, stood on the margin of Lake Ngami, the most
+southerly and first discovered of the great chain of equatorial lakes.
+They expected to find only a continuation of desert sands and desert
+hardships, but, lo! a mighty expanse of waters breaks on their vision,
+worth more as a discovery than a dozen nameless tribes or rivers. What
+could it mean? Was this the key to that mysterious outpour of rivers
+which, flowing north, east, and west, blended their waters with the
+Mediterranean, the Pacific and Atlantic? The discoverer could go no
+further then, but fancy was excited with the prospect of vague and
+limitless possibilities and speculation became active in every scientific
+centre. Back again into
+the<!--269.png--><span class="pagenum">262</span>
+wilderness the discoverer is drawn, and a
+score of others plunge into the unknown to share his fame.</p>
+
+<p>From the discovery of Ngami, a broad sheet into which the Cubango, south
+of the Zambesi and parallel with it, expands ere it plunges into the
+great central Salt Pan (a Great Salt Lake), may be dated the revival of
+modern curiosity in the secrets of the African Continent.</p>
+
+<p>In the Portuguese colonies of Abyssinia, there were rumors that a great
+lake existed north of the Zambesi, called Maravi or Nyassa. Its outflow
+was unknown, and the theory was that it was one of a long chain which
+fed the Nile. They thought no other stream was worthy of such a source,
+but they did not ask, whence then the mightier volumes that pour through
+the Congo and Zambesi? Others said the Nile finds ample sources in the
+“Mountains of the Moon.” Nobody had seen these, but old Ptolemy, the
+geographer, had said so two thousand years ago, and hundreds of years
+before, Herodotus had written, in obedience to the dictates of two
+Egyptian priests, that “two conical hills, Crophi and Mophi, divided the
+unfathomable waters of the Nile from those which ran into Ethiopia.”</p>
+
+<p>This is all the information we had of the sources of the Nile down to
+1863&mdash;at least of the White, or Eastern, branch of the Nile. Then it was
+that Speke and Grant, coming from the south, and Baker following the
+valley of the river toward the equator, almost met on the spot which
+contains its true sources. Poor Livingstone could not be made to see the
+merit of their discovery. He clung to the story of Herodotus, amplified
+by that of Ptolemy, which fixed the head of the great river in two lakes
+some ten degrees south of the Equator. Livingstone believed that the high
+water-shed between the Zambesi and Congo would pass for the Mountains
+of the Moon, and that in the Lualaba, flowing northward (the Lualaba
+afterwards turned out to be the Congo, as Stanley showed) he had the
+track of the true Nile. Following this will-o-the-wisp into the swamps of
+Lake Bangweolo, he met a lonely and lingering death.</p>
+
+<p>To look on the sources of the Nile was ever a wish and dream. The
+conquerors of Egypt, at whatever time and
+of<!--270.png--><span class="pagenum">263</span>
+whatever nation, longed
+to unravel the problem of its fountains. In the days when a settled
+population extended far into Nubia and a powerful state flourished at
+Mero&euml;, near the junction of the White and Blue Nile, the tramp of armed
+hosts in search of the “mythical fountains,” favorite haunt of Jove
+himself when he wished seclusion, often resounded in the deep African
+interior. Sesostris, the first king who patronized map making, made
+attempts to discover these springs. Alexander the Great, Cambyses the
+Persian, and the Roman C&aelig;sars, were inspired with the same wish. Julius
+C&aelig;sar said he would give up civil war could he but look on the sources of
+the Nile. Nero sent out a vast exploring party who told of cataracts and
+marshes which compelled their return. These expeditions were formidable.
+They returned empty handed as to science, but generally loaded with
+spoils of conquest. The idea of a solitary explorer, with his life in his
+hand and good will toward all in his heart, encountering all the perils
+and privations of African travel for pure love of knowledge, is wholly a
+modern conception.</p>
+
+<p>Let mention be made here of Ismail Pasha, ex-viceroy of Egypt. To the
+practices of an oriental despot he added the spirit of a man of modern
+science. To him, more than to any other man, do we owe a complete
+solution of the mystery of the Nile. He plunged Egypt into inextricable
+debt, he ground his people with taxes, but he introduced to them the
+light of western knowledge, he granted the concessions which built
+the Suez Canal, he sought out and annexed the sources of the Nile.
+For twenty years European pioneers and explorers, in his pay or under
+his protection, worked their way southward, mapping lakes and rivers,
+founding settlements, capturing slave gangs, until the entire Nile Valley
+either acknowledges Egypt or is open to commerce and civilization, unless
+forsooth the recent Soudanese protest, made by the fanatical El Mahdi and
+his followers, should prove to be more persistent and better sustained
+than now seems probable.</p>
+
+<p>Our trip up the Nile to Assouan, or the first cataract, past the silent
+shapes of the temples, sphinxes and pyramids, surrounded by sights and
+sounds of Oriental life, was as
+pastime.<!--271.png--><span class="pagenum">264</span>
+But now the holiday journey
+ends, and we are face to face with the realities and hardships of a
+Nubian desert. The Nile is no longer verdant on either side. The sands,
+dry and barren, form its shores. But that is not all. You skirt it to
+Korosko amid difficulties, and there you are at its great bend. If you
+followed it now to the next place of importance, Abu-Hammed, you would
+have to travel nearly 600 miles. The waters are broken by falls and the
+country is desolate. No one thinks of the journey, unless compelled to
+make it. The course is that of the caravans across the Korosko desert to
+Abu-Hammed. It is 400 miles of dreary waste, and calculated to burn out
+of the traveller any romance he may have entertained of Nubian adventure.
+Day marching over this desert is impossible at certain seasons. Night
+is given up to the uneasy motion of camel riding and the monotony of a
+desert tramp.</p>
+
+<p>Do not think the ground is even. Here and there it is broken by wady’s or
+gulches, and as you descend into these the eye may be relieved with sight
+of vegetation. Perhaps a gazelle dashes away in fright to the nearest
+sand hills, or it may be you catch a glimpse of a naked Arab youth
+tending his flock of goats, for even desert wastes are not utterly void
+of plant and animal life.</p>
+
+<p>These deserts are not even rainless, though as much as four years have
+been known to pass without a shower. A rain storm is watched with
+breathless hope by the nomad Arab tribes. They see the clouds drifting
+up from the distant Indian Ocean and pitching their black tents on
+the summits of the mountains that divide the Nile Valley from the Red
+Sea. A north wind may blow during the night and sweep them back whence
+they came. But more likely they burst into thunderstorm, as if all the
+storms of a season were compressed into one. The dry wadys of yesterday
+are roaring torrents by morning, bearing to the Nile their tribute of
+a single day, and for a day or a week, the desert air is pure and the
+desert sand shoots a tender vegetation, only to be withered, like Jonah’s
+gourd, in fewer hours than it sprang.</p>
+
+<p>The Arab camel driver, however, knows well a few
+spots<!--272.png--><span class="pagenum">265</span>
+where are
+running water and green turf the year round. These are the oases, or
+stepping stones, by means of which the burning wilderness may be crossed.
+Sometimes the wells fail, or have been poisoned or filled, or are in the
+possession of a hostile predatory band. Then the unfortunate traveller
+has to face death by thirst or exhaustion as he hurries on to the next
+halting place. At any rate he is profoundly thankful when the welcome
+waters of the Nile come into view again at Abu-Hammed, and he knows he is
+within safe navigable distance of Kartoum, at the junction of the White
+and Blue Nile.</p>
+
+<p>And now, in passing from Abu-Hammed to Kartoum, we have a grand secret of
+the Nile. For twelve hundred miles above its mouth that mysterious river
+receives no tributary on the right hand nor on the left. It may be traced
+like a ribbon of silver with a narrow fringe of green, winding in great
+folds through a hot and thirsty desert and under the full blaze of a sun
+that drinks its waters but returns nothing in the shape of rain. And
+man also exacts a heavy tribute for purposes of irrigation. Whence its
+supply? Look for a partial answer to the Atbara, whose mouth is in the
+east bank of the Nile, half way from Abu-Hammed to Kartoum. Here light
+begins to break on the exhaustless stores of the Nile. During the greater
+part of the year the Atbara is dry. Not a hopeful source of supply, you
+say at once. The sources of the Atbara are away off to the east in the
+mountains of Abyssinia, whose great buttresses are now visible from the
+Nile Valley, and whose projections push to the Red Sea and Indian Ocean.
+There also are a Lake Region and Nile sources, whose discovery by Bruce a
+century ago gave the scientific world quite a stir. His account of this
+Abyssinian country, so unique in physical features, social life, history,
+religion and ancient remains, read so much like romance that it was not
+believed. But Beke, De Cosson, James Bruce and the great Livingstone,
+have since verified all and given him his proper place among accurate
+observers and intrepid travellers.</p>
+
+<p>But it was Sir Samuel Baker, on his first journey up the Nile in 1861,
+who pointed out the importance of the
+Abyssinian<!--273.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">266</a></span>
+rivers as Nile
+tributaries. He turned aside from his southward route and followed
+the dry bed of the Atbara for a double purpose. First, to watch the
+great annual flooding of this Nile feeder. Second, to enjoy the sport
+of capturing some of the big game, such as the elephant, rhinoceros,
+hippopotamus, giraffe and lion, known to abound in the thick jungles
+covering the lower slopes of the adjacent hills.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 354px;">
+<img src="images/i_266.jpg" width="354" height="450"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PORTRAIT OF BAKER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Atbara, or “Black Nile,” was simply a vast wady or furrow, thirty
+feet deep and 400 yards to half a mile across, plowed through the heart
+of the desert, its edges marked by a thin growth of leafless mimosas and
+dome palms. The only trace of water was here and there a rush-fringed
+pool which the impetuous torrent had hollowed out in the sudden bends
+in the river’s course, and where disported themselves hippopotami,
+crocodiles, and immense turtles, that had long ago adjusted their
+relations on a friendly footing on the discovery that none of them
+could do harm to the others. On the 23 of June, the simoom was blowing
+with overpowering force; the heat was furnace-like, and the tents of
+travellers were covered with several inches of drifted sand. Above, in
+the Abyssinian mountains, however, the lightnings were playing and the
+rains were falling as if the windows of heaven had been opened. The
+monsoon had set in; the rising streams were choking their narrow channels
+in their frantic rush to the lowlands, and were tearing away huge masses
+of the rich dark soil, to be spread a month hence over the flat plains of
+Egypt. The party encamped on the Atbara
+heard<!--274.png--><span class="pagenum">267</span>
+through the night a sound
+as if of distant thunder; but it was “the roar of the approaching water.”</p>
+
+<p>Wonder of the desert! Yesterday there was a barren sheet of glaring sand
+with a fringe of withered bush and tree. All nature was most poor. No
+bush could boast a leaf. No tree could throw a shade. In one night there
+was a mysterious change&mdash;wonders of the mighty Nile! An army of waters
+was hastening to the wasted river. There was no drop of rain, no thunder
+cloud on the horizon to give hope. All had been dry and sultry. Dust and
+desolation yesterday; to-day a magnificent stream five hundred yards wide
+and twenty feet deep, dashing through a dreary desert. Bamboos, reeds,
+floating matter of all kinds, hurry along the turbid waters. Where are
+all the crowded inhabitants of the pools? Their prison-doors are open,
+the prisoners are released, and all are rejoicing in the deep sounding
+and rapid waters of the Atbara.</p>
+
+<p>Here is the clue to one part of the Nile mystery&mdash;its great annual
+inundations, source of fertilizing soil and slime. The Blue Nile, further
+on, and with its sources in the same Abyssinian fastnesses, contributes
+like the Atbara, though in a secondary degree, to the annual Nile flood
+and to Egypt’s fertility, with this difference, that it flows all the
+year round.</p>
+
+<p>At Kartoum, as already seen, we reach the junction of the White and Blue
+Nile, the frontier of two strongly contrasted physical regions, and the
+dividing line between the nomadic barbarism of the north and the settled
+barbarism of the south. The secret that has still to be unveiled is the
+source of that unfailing flow of water which perpetually resists the
+influences of absorption, evaporation and irrigation, and carries a life
+giving stream through the heart of Egypt at all seasons of the year.</p>
+
+<p>Kartoum has ingrafted all the vices of its northern society on the
+squalor and misery of its southern. A more miserable, filthy and
+unhealthy spot can hardly be imagined. Yet it is not uninteresting, for
+here, up to a recent period, was the “threshold of the unknown.” It has
+been the starting point of numberless Nile expeditions since the days of
+the
+Pharaohs.<!--275.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">268</a></span>
+Mehemet Ali, first viceroy of Egypt, pushed his conquest
+of the Soudan, a little south of it in 1839. He found the climate so
+unhealthy that he established a penal colony a little way up the White
+Nile, banishment to which was considered equivalent to death.</p>
+
+<p>Says Sir Samuel Baker of Kartoum, on his second visit in 1869: “During
+my first visit in 1861, the population was 30,000. It is now reduced
+one-half, and nearly all the European residents have disappeared. And
+the change in the country between Berber and Kartoum is frightful.
+The river’s banks, formerly verdant with heavy crops, have become a
+wilderness. Villages, once crowded, have entirely disappeared. Irrigation
+has ceased. The nights, formerly discordant with the croaking of
+waterwheels, are now silent as death. Industry has vanished. Oppression
+has driven the inhabitants from the soil. It is all due to the Governor
+General of Soudan who, like a true Mohammedan, left his government to
+Providence while he increased the taxes. The population of the richest
+province of Soudan has fled oppression and abandoned the country. The
+greater portion have taken to the slave trade of the White Nile where, in
+their turn, they might trample on the rights of others, where, as they
+had been plundered, they might plunder.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 394px;">
+<img src="images/i_269.jpg" width="394" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">MADEMOISELLE TINNE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The wilderness of fever-stricken marshes that line the White Nile long
+baffled the attempts of the most determined explorers to penetrate to
+the southward. At length “dry land” was reached again at Gondokoro, only
+five degrees from the equator. It in turn became an advanced position
+of Egyptian authority, a centre of mission enterprise, a half-way house
+where the traveller rested and equipped himself for new discoveries.
+From the base of Gondokoro, Petherick pursued his researches into the
+condition of the negro races of the Upper Nile; the Italian traveller,
+Miani, penetrated far towards the southwest, into the countries occupied
+by the Nyam-Nyam tribes, that singular region of dwarfs and cannibals;
+and Dr. Schweinfurth, Colonel Long, and Mdlle. Tinn&eacute; followed up the
+search with magnificent results. Mdlle. Tinn&eacute;, a brave Dutch lady,
+deserves special notice as having been perhaps the first European
+woman<!--276.png--><span class="pagenum">269</span>
+who encountered the terrible hardships and perils of the explorer’s
+life in the cause of African discovery. She is far, however from being
+the last. The wives of two of the greatest pioneers in the work&mdash;Mrs.
+Livingstone and Lady
+Baker&mdash;accompanied<!--277.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">270</a></span>
+with a noble-minded resolution
+the steps of their husbands, the one along the banks of the Zambesi, and
+the other on the White Nile. Mdlle. Tinn&eacute; and Mrs. Livingstone paid with
+their lives for their devotion, and are buried by the streams from whose
+waters they helped to raise the veil. Lady Baker has been more fortunate.
+Only a girl of seventeen when she rode by her husband’s side from
+Gondokoro, she lived to return to Europe where her name is inseparably
+linked with two great events of African history&mdash;the discovery of one of
+the great lakes of the Nile and the suppression of the slave traffic.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 355px;">
+<img src="images/i_270.jpg" width="355" height="450"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">MRS. BAKER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>As already intimated, the Egyptian conquest and annexation of the Soudan
+country, and the bad government of it which followed, made the region
+of the White Nile the great man-hunting ground of Africa. The traffic
+was general when the modern travellers began their struggle to reach the
+equatorial lakes. Arab traders were the chief actors in these enterprises
+and they were joined by a motley crew of other races, not excepting most
+of the white and Christian races. If they were not directly under the
+patronage of the Egyptian authorities at Kartoum, they made it worth
+while for those authorities to keep a patronizing silence, by throwing
+annually into their treasury something handsome in the shape of cash.</p>
+
+<p>Kartoum marks pretty distinctly the limit of the Arab races and the
+influence of the Mohammedan religion. Beyond, and toward the equator
+and Nile sources, are the negro and pagan. Fanaticism and race hatred,
+therefore, helped to inflame
+the<!--278.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">271</a></span>
+evil passions which the slave trade
+invariably arouses. The business of the miscreants engaged in this
+detestable work was simply kidnapping and murder. The trade of the
+White Nile was purely slave-hunting. The trifling traffic in ivory and
+gums was a mere deception and sham, intended to cover the operations
+of the slaver. A marauding expedition would be openly fitted out at
+Kartoum, composed of some of the most atrocious ruffians in Africa
+and south-western Asia, with the scum of a few European cities. Their
+favorite mode of going to work was to take advantage of one of those wars
+which are constantly being waged between the tribes of Central Africa.
+If a war were not going on in the quarter which the slave-hunters had
+marked out for their raid, a quarrel was purposely fomented&mdash;at no time a
+difficult task in Africa. At dead of night the marauders with their black
+allies would steal down upon the doomed village. At a signal the huts
+are fired over the heads of the sleeping inmates, a volley of musketry
+is poured in, and the gang of desperadoes spring upon their victims. A
+scene of wild confusion and massacre follows, until all resistance has
+been relentlessly put down, and then the slave-catcher counts over and
+secures his human spoils. This is the first act of the bloody drama.
+Most probably, if the kidnappers think they have not made a large enough
+“haul,” they pick a quarrel with their allies, who are in their turn
+shot down, or overpowered and, manacled to their late enemies, are soon
+floating down the Nile in a slave dhow, on their way to the markets of
+Egypt or Turkey. The waste of human life, the stoppage of industry and
+honest trade, the demoralization of the whole region within reach of the
+raiders, the detestable cruelties and crimes practised on the helpless
+captives on the journey down the river, on the caravan route across the
+desert, or in the stifling dens where they are lodged at the slave depots
+and markets, represent an enormous total of human misery.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_272.jpg" width="600" height="360"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SLAVE HUNTER AND VICTIMS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Many will remember the efforts of Colonel Gordon, whom the Khedive made a
+Pasha, and also a Governor General of the Soudan, at the capital Kartoum,
+to suppress this nefarious traffic. And it will also be remembered how
+in the late revolt
+against<!--280.png--><span class="pagenum">273</span>
+Egyptian authority, led by El Mahdi, Colonel
+Gordon again headed a forlorn hope to Kartoum, with the hope that he
+could stay the rising fanatical tide, or at least control it, so as to
+prevent a fresh recognition of slave stealers. He fell a victim to his
+philanthropic views, and was murdered in the streets of the city he went
+to redeem.</p>
+
+<p>We have already made the reader acquainted with the heroic and more
+successful efforts of Colonel Baker, Pasha, in the same direction. He
+was not so much of a religious enthusiast as Colonel Gordon, did not
+rely on fate, but thought an imposing, organized force the best way to
+strike terror into these piratical traders, and at the same time inspire
+the negro races with better views of self protection. In the long and
+brilliant record which Colonel Baker made in Africa, the honors he
+gathered as a military hero bent on suppressing the slave trade will
+ever be divided evenly with those acquired as a dauntless traveller and
+accurate scientific observer.</p>
+
+<p>Let it not be thought that slave catching and selling is now extinct.
+True, the care exercised in the waters of the Red Sea and Indian Ocean,
+makes it difficult to run slave cargoes into Arabia and the further east.
+True, Baker’s expedition broke up a force of some two thousand organized
+kidnappers on the Upper White Nile, but these piratical adventurers are
+still abroad in more obscure paths and compelled to rely more on guile
+and cunning than on force for securing their prey.</p>
+
+<p>But let us pursue our journey from Kartoum toward the “Springs of the
+Nile.” We do not take the Blue Nile. That comes down from the east, and
+the Abyssinian mountains. We take the White Nile, which is the true Nile,
+and comes up from the south or southwest. And we must suppose we are
+going along with Colonel Baker on his first journey, which was one in
+search of the Nile sources. It was a scientific tour, and not an armed
+one like his second expedition.</p>
+
+<p>Entering the White Nile, we plunge into a new world&mdash;a region whose
+climate and animal and vegetable life, in brief, whose whole aspect and
+nature, are totally unlike those of the desert which stretches up to
+the walls of Kartoum. We
+are<!--281.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">274</a></span>
+within the zone of regular rainfall, an
+intermediate region that extends to the margin of the great lakes, where
+we meet with the equatorial belt of perennial rains. Henceforth we have
+not only heat but moisture acting upon the face of nature.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_274.jpg" width="600" height="493"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SWAMPS OF THE WHITE NILE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One may determine which of the two climates is the more tolerable
+by considering whether he would prefer to be roasted or stewed. The
+traveller would find it hard to decide whether the desert or the swamp is
+the greater bar to his advance. Every mile of progress marks an increase
+of dampness and of warmth. First of all, we pass through the great mimosa
+forest, which extends, belt-like, almost across the continent, marking
+the confines of the Sahara and the Soudan. The reader must not imagine
+a dense girdle of tall trees and tangled undergrowth, but a park-like
+country, with wide glades between clumps
+and<!--282.png--><span class="pagenum">275</span>
+lines of thorny shrubbery.
+The mimosa, or Arabian acacia&mdash;the tree from which the gum-arabic of
+commerce is extracted&mdash;has assigned to it the out-post duty in the
+struggle between tropical luxuriance and desert drought. By and by it
+gives place to the ambatch as the characteristic tree of the Nile. The
+margin of the river becomes marshy and reedy. The water encroaches
+on the land and the land on the water. The muddy stream rolls lazily
+along between high walls of rank vegetation, and bears whole islands of
+intertwisted leaves, roots and stems on its bosom, very much as an Arctic
+strait bears its acres of ice floes. It breaks up into tortuous channels
+that lead everywhere and nowhere. A nearly vertical sun shines down on
+the voyager as he slowly toils up stream. Scarcely a breath of air stirs
+to blow away the malarious mists or fill a drooping sail. Mosquitoes are
+numerous, and insatiate for blood.</p>
+
+<p>Day thus follows day with nothing to break the monotony except now and
+then the appearance of a hippopotamus, rising snortingly to the surface,
+a crocodile with his vicious jaws, or, where the land is solid, a buffalo
+pushing his head through the reeds to take a drink. The true river margin
+is invisible except from the boat’s masts over the head of the tall
+papyrus. Even could we reach it, we would wish ourselves back again,
+for of all the growth of this dismal swamp man is the most repulsive.
+The Dinka tribes of the White Nile are among the lowest in the scale of
+human beings. They are naked, both as to clothing and moral qualities.
+The Shillooks are a finer race physically, but inveterate pirates and
+murderers.</p>
+
+<p>In the midst of this swampy region the Nile receives another important
+tributary from the mountains of Southern Abyssinia. It is the Sobat
+which, Speke says, “runs for a seven days’ journey through a forest so
+dense as to completely exclude the rays of the sun.”</p>
+
+<p>Above its mouth we must be prepared to meet the greatest of all the
+obstructions of the Nile. Here are many small affluents from both east
+and west, and here is a vast stretch of marsh through which the waters
+soak as through a sponge. In the centre of this “sponge” tract is a small
+lake&mdash;Lake
+No.<!--283.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">276</a></span>
+But to reach it or emerge from it again, by means of
+the labyrinthine channels, is a work of great difficulty. The “sponge”
+is a thick coating of roots, grasses and stems matted together so as to
+conceal the waters, yet open enough for them to percolate through. It
+may be ventured upon by human feet, and in many places supports quite a
+vegetation. But the traveller is in constant danger of falling through,
+to say nothing of the danger from various animals. It was through this
+“sponge” that Colonel Baker, in his second Nile expedition, managed
+to cut a canal, through which was dragged the first steamer that ever
+floated on the head waters of the great river.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_276.jpg" width="600" height="498"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">CROSSING A SPONGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Having passed this obstacle the journey is easier to Gondokoro, where
+the land is firm. Twenty-three years ago Gondokoro was a collection of
+grass huts in the midst of an
+untrodden<!--284.png--><span class="pagenum">277</span>
+wilderness, and surrounded by
+barbarous and hostile tribes. It has since been made an Egyptian military
+station and named Ismailia.</p>
+
+<p>Though the spot is not inviting except as it affords you rest after your
+hardships, yet it is the scene of an interesting episode in the history
+of African exploration. Speke and Grant had started on their memorable
+trip from Zanzibar in 1861. Colonel Baker and his wife had started up the
+Nile for its sources in the same year. Now it is February, 1863. A travel
+stained caravan, with two white men at its head, comes down the high
+ground back of the station. They quicken their pace and enter the village
+with shouts, waving of flags and firing of musketry. It is Speke and
+Grant on their return trip, with the secret of the Nile in their keeping.</p>
+
+<p>On their long tramp they had visited strange peoples and countries, and
+by courage and tact had escaped unharmed from a number of difficulties
+and perils. They had traced the one shore of that vast reservoir of fresh
+water under the Equator which Speke had sighted on a previous expedition,
+and had named Victoria Nyanza. They had seen this beautiful equatorial
+reservoir discharging its surplus waters northward over the picturesque
+Ripon Falls, and knew that they were in possession of the secret which
+all the world had sought from the beginning.</p>
+
+<p>Lower down, at the Karuma Falls, they were compelled to leave the stream,
+which they now felt sure was the Nile. Crossing to the right bank, they
+struck across the country, northward, and in a direct line for Gondokoro.
+Here they caught sight of the furthest outpost of Egyptian exploration,
+and again gladly looked on the river that was to bear them down to the
+Mediterranean.</p>
+
+<p>By a curious coincidence, the first Englishman who had penetrated so far
+to the southward, was at that moment in Gondokoro. Samuel Baker and his
+wife were interrupted in their preparations for their journey to the Nile
+sources by the noise of the approaching party, and they rode out to see
+what all the hubbub meant. Four people from a distant nook of Europe met
+in the heart of Africa; and as they clasped hands, the
+hoary<!--285.png--><span class="pagenum">278</span>
+secret of
+the Nile was unriddled! All of them had numberless difficulties before
+as well as behind them; but their hearts were undismayed, and swelled
+only with pride at what had been accomplished for science and for their
+native land. The travellers from Zanzibar bore the marks of their long
+journey&mdash;“battered and torn, but sound and seaworthy.” “Speke,” Baker
+tells us, “appeared the more worn of the two; he was excessively lean,
+but in reality in good tough condition. He had walked the whole way
+from Zanzibar, never having once ridden during the weary march. Grant
+was in honorable rags, his bare knees projecting through the remnants
+of trousers that were an exhibition of rough industry in tailor-work.
+He was looking tired and feverish, but both men had a fire in the eye
+that showed the spirit that had led them through.” The first greetings
+over, Baker’s earliest question was: Was there no leaf of the laurel
+reserved for him? Yes; there was. Below the Karuma Falls, Speke and Grant
+had been informed the stream from the Victoria Nyanza fell into and
+almost immediately emerged again from another lake, the Luta Nzig&eacute;. This
+therefore might be the ultimate reservoir of the Nile waters. No European
+had ever seen or heard of this basin before. Baker determined it should
+be his prize.</p>
+
+<p>But now we meet a new class of obstacles as we undertake a land journey
+into intertropical Africa. There is no longer, as in the desert, danger
+from thirst and starvation, for game abounds, and we are in some degree
+out of the interminable swamps of river navigation. But a small army of
+porters must be got together. They must be drilled, and preparations must
+be made for feeding them. True, some explorers have gone well nigh alone.
+But it is not best. Stanley always travelled with one to two hundred
+natives, and quite successfully.</p>
+
+<p>And these natives are by no means easy to handle. They are ready to make
+bargains, but are panicky and often desert, or, what is worse, take
+advantage of any relaxation of discipline to rise in mutiny. Their leader
+must be stern of will, yet kind and good-natured, wise as a serpent and
+watchful as a hawk. When a start is made, difficulties accumulate. You
+must
+expect<!--286.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">279</a></span>
+incredible rainfalls, and an amazing growth of vegetation.
+Then in the dry season, which is hardly more than two to three months in
+a year, the shrubs and grasses are burned up far and wide.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_279.jpg" width="600" height="501"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PREPARATIONS FOR THE START.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Everywhere there is jungle of grass, reeds and bamboos, when the
+rivers are at their height; and amid the forests the great stems of
+the pandanus, banana and boabab are covered to their tops with a
+feathery growth of ferns and orchids, and festooned with wild vines and
+creeping plants. The native villages are almost smothered under the dark
+luxuriance of plant life, and lions and other beasts of prey can creep up
+unseen to the very doors of the huts. The whole country becomes a tangled
+brake, with here and there an open space, or a rough track marking where
+an elephant, rhinoceros or buffalo has crushed a way in the high grass.</p>
+
+<p><!--287.png--><span class="pagenum">280</span></p>
+
+<p>Then ahead of us, and between Gondokoro and the lakes we seek, the
+country has been so raided by slave hunters, that every native can be
+counted on as an enemy. Or a native war may be in progress, and if so,
+great care must be taken to avoid siding with either party. We must
+retreat here and push on there, avoiding perils of this class as we value
+our lives. There is no road through Africa of one’s own choice, and none
+that may not entail an entire backward step for days, and perhaps forever.</p>
+
+<p>At Gondokoro we are in the midst of the Bari tribe. Pagans before,
+contact with the Arab wanderers and slave stealers has made them savages.
+They live in low thatched huts, rather neat in appearance, and surrounded
+by a thick hedge to keep off intruders. The men are well grown and
+the women not handsome, but the thick lips and flat nose of the negro
+are wanting. They tattoo their stomachs artistically, and smear their
+bodies with a greasy pigment of ochre. Their only clothing is a bunch of
+feathers stuck in the slight tuft of hair which they permit to grow on
+their heads, and a neat lappet around the loins, of about six inches in
+depth, to which is appended a tail piece made of shreds of leather or
+cotton.</p>
+
+<p>Every man carries his weapons, pipe and stool. The former are chiefly
+the bow and arrows. They use a poisoned arrow when fighting. The effect
+of the poison in the system is not to kill but to corrode the flesh and
+bone, till they drop away in pieces. The bows are of bamboo, not very
+elastic, and the archers are not dexterous.</p>
+
+<p>It was while in Gondokoro, on this his first Nile journey, that Baker had
+opportunity to study, and occasion to feel, the enormities of the slave
+traffic. The Moslem traders regarded him as a spy on their nefarious
+operations. They manacled their slaves more closely and stowed them
+away securely in remote and secret stockades. Their conduct as citizens
+was outrageous, for they kept the town in a continual uproar by their
+drinking bouts, their brawls with the natives, and promiscuous firing of
+guns and pistols. One of their bullets killed a boy of Baker’s party. It
+was evident that these marauders were intent on compelling him to make a
+hasty departure,
+for<!--288.png--><span class="pagenum">281</span>
+they incited trouble among his men, and inflamed
+the natives against his presence.</p>
+
+<p>As an instance of the trouble which grew out of this, his men asked the
+privilege of stealing some cattle from the natives for a feast. He denied
+their request. A mutiny was the result. Baker ordered the ringleader
+to be bound and punished with twenty-five lashes. The men refused to
+administer the punishment and stood by their ringleader. Baker undertook
+to enforce the order himself, when the black leader rushed at him with
+a stick. Baker stood his ground and knocked his assailant down with his
+fist. Then he booted him severely, while his companions looked on in
+amazement at his boldness and strength. But they rallied, and commenced
+to pelt him with sticks and stones. His wife saw his danger. She ordered
+the drums to be beaten and in the midst of the confusion rushed to the
+rescue. The clangor distracted the attention of the assailants, and a
+parley ensued. The matter was settled by a withdrawal of the sentence on
+the condition that the leader should apologize and swear fealty again.</p>
+
+<p>Before Baker could complete his preparations for starting, the fever
+broke out in Gondokoro, and both he and his wife fell sick. In order to
+escape the effluvium of the more crowded village, he moved his tents and
+entire encampment to the high ground above the river. While the animals
+were healthy, the donkeys and camels were attacked by a greenish brown
+bird, of the size of a thrush, with a red beak and strong claws. It lit
+on the beasts to search for vermin, but its beak penetrated the flesh,
+and once a hole was established, the bird continually enlarged it to the
+great annoyance of the animal which could neither eat nor sleep. The
+animals had to be watched by boys continually till their wounds were
+healed.</p>
+
+<p>An Arab guide, named Mohammed, had been engaged, and the expedition was
+about to move. Mrs. Baker had brought a boy along from Kartoum, by the
+name of Saat. He had become quite attached to her, as had another servant
+named Richarn. The guide, Mohammed, said he had seventy porters ready and
+that a start could be made on Monday. But the fellow was
+in<!--289.png--><span class="pagenum">282</span>
+a conspiracy
+to start on Saturday without Baker. Mrs. Baker found it out through Saat
+and Richarn. She ordered the tents to be struck and a start to be made
+on the moment. This nonplussed Mohammed. He wavered and hesitated. She
+brought his accusers face to face with him when, to Baker’s astonishment,
+the plot came out, that the entire force of porters had conspired to
+desert as soon as they got the arms and ammunition in their hands, and to
+kill Baker in case resistance was offered.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing was left but to disarm and discharge the whole force. He gave
+them written discharges, with the word “mutineer” beneath his signature,
+and thus the fellows, none of whom could read, went about bearing the
+evidences of their own guilt. Baker now tried in vain to enlist a new
+party of porters. The people had been poisoned against him. He applied
+to Koorschid, a Circassian chief, for ten elephant hunters and two
+interpreters, but the wily chief avoided him. It looked as if he would
+have to give over his contemplated journey for the season. But by dint of
+hard work he managed to gather seventeen men, whom he hoped to make true
+to him by kind treatment. At this juncture a party of Koorschid’s people
+arrived from the Latooka country with a number of porters. Their chief,
+Adda, a man of magnificent proportions, took a fancy to Baker and invited
+him to visit the Latookas. He was given presents, and his picture was
+taken, which pleased him greatly. His followers came and were similarly
+treated and delighted. They agreed to accompany Baker back to their
+country, but a body of Turkish traders were also going thither. They not
+only declared that Baker should not have the escort of these people, but
+actually pressed them into their own service. And then, to make things
+worse, they threatened to incite the tribes through which they had to
+pass against him should he dare to follow.</p>
+
+<p>Baker thought he could meet any mischief of this kind by dealing
+liberally in presents, and so resolved to follow the traders. He loaded
+his camels and donkeys heavily, and started with his seventeen untried
+men. Mrs. Baker was mounted on
+a<!--290.png--><span class="pagenum">283</span>
+good Abyssinian horse, carrying several
+leather bags at the pommel of the saddle. Colonel Baker was similarly
+mounted and loaded. They had neither guide nor interpreter. Not one
+native was procurable, owing to the baleful influence of the traders.
+Their journey began about an hour after sunset, and Colonel Baker, taking
+the distant mountains of Balignan as his landmark, led the way.</p>
+
+<p>If we are now amid the hardships of an African journey, we are also amid
+its excitements. Can we outstrip the Turkish traders? If so it will be
+well, for then they cannot stir up the tribes against us. We will try.
+But our camels are heavily loaded, and their baggage catches in the
+overhanging bramble. Every now and then one of those most heavily top
+laden is swung from his path, and even rolls into a steep gulch, when he
+has to be unpacked and his load carried up on to the level before being
+replaced. It is tantalizing for those in a hurry. But the traders are
+also travelling slowly for they are buying and selling.</p>
+
+<p>Presently two of their Latookas come to us, having deserted. They are
+thirsty, and direct us to a spot where water can be had. While we are
+drinking, in comes a party of natives with the decayed head of a wild
+boar, which they cook and eat, even though the maggots are thick in it.
+The health of these people does not seem to be affected by even the most
+putrid flesh.</p>
+
+<p>These Latooka deserters now become guides. They lead the way, with
+Colonel and Mrs. Baker. The country is that of the Tolloga natives.
+While we halt under a fig tree to rest and await the rearward party with
+the laden animals, the Tollogas emerge from their villages and surround
+us. There are five or six hundred of them, all curious, and especially
+delighted at sight of our horses. They had never seen a horse before.
+We inquire for their chief, when a humped-backed little fellow asked in
+broken Arabic who we were.</p>
+
+<p>Colonel Baker said he was a traveller.</p>
+
+<p>“Do you want ivory?” asked the hunchback.</p>
+
+<p>“We have no use for it.”</p>
+
+<p>“Ah, you want slaves?”</p>
+
+<p><!--291.png--><span class="pagenum">284</span></p>
+
+<p>“No we do not want slaves.”</p>
+
+<p>At this there was a shout of laughter, as though such thing could not be.
+Then the hunchback continued:</p>
+
+<p>“Have you got plenty of cows?”</p>
+
+<p>“No, but plenty of beads and copper.”</p>
+
+<p>“Where are they?”</p>
+
+<p>“With my men. They will be here directly.”</p>
+
+<p>“What countryman are you?”</p>
+
+<p>“An Englishman.”</p>
+
+<p>He had never heard of such a people.</p>
+
+<p>“You are a Turk,” he continued.</p>
+
+<p>“All right; anything you like.”</p>
+
+<p>“And that is your son?” pointing to Mrs. Baker.</p>
+
+<p>“No, that is my wife.”</p>
+
+<p>“Your wife! What a lie! He is a boy.”</p>
+
+<p>“Not a bit of it. This is my wife who has come along with me to see the
+women of your country.”</p>
+
+<p>“What a lie!” he again exclaimed.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. Baker was dressed precisely like her husband, except that her
+sleeves were long while the Colonel’s arms were bare.</p>
+
+<p>Soon Tombe, the chief of the tribe, put in an appearance. He is
+propitiated with plenty of beads and copper bracelets and drives his
+importunate people away. The hunchback is employed as interpreter, and
+now our party is away over a rough road, determined to beat the Turks
+through the Ellyrian tribe beyond. But it is too late. Their advance is
+ahead. Their centre passes us in disdain. Their leader, Ibrahim, comes
+up, scowls and passes on. Mrs. Baker calls to the Colonel to stop him
+and have a friendly talk. He does so, tells him they need never clash as
+they are after two entirely different objects. Then he shows him how he
+could either punish or befriend him once they were back at Kartoum. The
+old villain listens, and is moved. Baker then gives him a double-barreled
+gun and some gold. Both parties now march into Ellyria together, glad to
+escape the rocky defiles which had to be threaded on the last stages of
+the journey, where many a trader has lost his life.</p>
+
+<p>We here meet with Legge, the chief, who demands
+blackmail.<!--292.png--><span class="pagenum">285</span>
+Baker gives
+liberally of beads and bracelets, but Legge gives nothing in return,
+except some honey. Our men have to draw for food on the reserve stores
+of rice, which they no sooner boil and mix with the honey than along
+comes Legge and helps himself, eating like a cormorant till he can
+hold no more. We can only stay here one day, for the people are very
+annoying and will part with nothing except their honey. So we leave these
+bullet-headed natives, and start again toward Latooka, over a level
+country and an easier road.</p>
+
+<p>Old Ibrahim and Colonel and Mrs. Baker now lead the way.</p>
+
+<p>The wily old Arab gets confidential, and informs the Colonel that his
+men intend to mutiny as soon as they get to Latooka. This news gives the
+Colonel time to prepare. In two days we enter the Wakkula country, rich
+in pasturage and abundant in water, literally filled with big game, such
+as elephants, rhinoceri, buffalo, giraffes, wild boars and antelope. A
+buffalo is found in a trap, and partly eaten by a lion. The men make a
+feast of the remainder. It is the first meat they have eaten since they
+left Gondokoro, and it is a great relish. A hunt by the Colonel brings in
+several fine antelope, enough to last till Latooka is reached.</p>
+
+<p>And now we are among the Latooka villages. There are Turkish traders
+there already, for they are gathered in Latome, a border village. They
+fire off guns, and forbid Ibrahim and his party to pass, claiming an
+exclusive right to trade there. There is a row between the Moslem
+traders, in which poor Ibrahim is almost strangled to death. The Colonel
+observes a strict neutrality, as the time had not come for him to take
+sides.</p>
+
+<p>After wrangling for hours all retired to sleep. The next morning he calls
+his men to resume the march. Four of them rise in mutiny, seize their
+guns and assume a threatening attitude. Belaal, the leader, approaches
+and says:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>“Not a man shall go with you. Go where you will with Ibrahim, but we
+won’t move a step. You may employ niggers to load the camels, but not us.”</p>
+
+<p>“Lay down your gun, and load the camels!” thunders the Colonel.</p>
+
+<p><!--293.png--><span class="pagenum">286</span></p>
+
+<p>“I won’t,” was the defiant reply.</p>
+
+<p>“Then stop right here!” As quick as a flash the Colonel lands a blow
+on his jaw, and the ringleader rolls in a heap among the luggage, the
+gun flying in the opposite direction. There is a momentary panic,
+during which the Colonel seizes a rifle and rushes among the mutineers,
+insisting on their going to work and almost dragging them to their
+places. They obey mechanically. The camels are soon loaded and we are off
+again. But Ibrahim and his party have been gone for some time.</p>
+
+<p>Belaal and four others soon after desert. The Colonel declares the
+vultures will soon pick their bones. Four days after, word comes that the
+deserters have been killed by a party of savages. The rest of the party
+think it came about in accordance with the Colonel’s prophecy, and credit
+him with magical powers.</p>
+
+<p>Thirteen miles from Latome is Tarrangolle, the largest Latooka village,
+where Moy, the chief, resides. Here Ibrahim stopped to collect his
+ivory and slaves. Crowds came out of the village to meet us, but their
+chief attraction was Mrs. Baker and the camels. These Latookas are,
+doubtless, the finest made savages in all Africa. They are tall, muscular
+and beautifully proportioned. They have high foreheads, large eyes,
+high cheek bones, small mouths, and full, but not thick lips. Their
+countenances are pleasing, their manners civil. They are frank but
+warlike, merry yet always ready for a fight. Tarrangolle has 3000 houses,
+surrounded by palisades; and each house is fortified by a stockade. The
+houses are very tall and bell shaped. They are entered by a low door
+not over two feet high. The interior is clean but unlighted by windows.
+Their cattle are kept in kraals and are very carefully tended. Their
+dead, who are killed in war, are allowed to lie on the field as food for
+vultures. Those who die at home are lightly buried for a time. Then they
+are exhumed, the flesh stripped off, and the bones put into an earthen
+jar, which is deposited in the common pile or mound outside of the
+village. Every village has its burial pile, which is a huge collection of
+jars. They wear no clothes, but bestow
+great<!--294.png--><span class="pagenum">287</span>
+attention on their hair.
+Their weapons are the lance, an iron-head mace, a long bladed knife,
+and an ugly iron bracelet armed with knife blades four inches long. The
+women are not as finely shaped as the men. They are large, heavy limbed
+creatures, used to drudgery.</p>
+
+<p>Chief Moy visits us and looks for the first time on a white person. The
+Colonel makes presents of beads, bracelets, and a necklace of pearls
+for Bokke, the chief’s favorite wife. “What a row there will be in the
+family when my other wives see Bokke’s present,” says the wily old chief.
+The Colonel takes the hint and gives him three pounds of beads to be
+divided between his wives. Next day, Bokke comes to the Colonel’s hut,
+all covered with beads, tatooed on her cheeks, and with a piece of ivory
+hanging in her lower lip. She is not bad looking, and her daughter is as
+comely a savage as you ever saw.</p>
+
+<p>Horrid word comes that a party of Turkish traders have been massacred in
+a Latooka village which they had tried to destroy and to make slaves of
+the inhabitants. All is now excitement. Ibrahim’s party and our own are
+in imminent danger. But Moy intercedes for his white guests and appeases
+the angry natives. Though rich in cattle, our party cannot get a pound
+of beef from these Latookas. But ducks and geese are plenty in a stream
+close by, and we are allowed to kill all we want.</p>
+
+<p>Let us look in upon a Latooka funeral dance in honor of a dead warrior.
+What grotesque dresses the dancers appear in! Ostrich feathers adorn
+their helmets of hair, leopard and monkey skins hang from their
+shoulders, bells dangle at a waist belt, an antelope horn is hung round
+the neck, which is blown in the midst of the excitement. The dancers rush
+round and round in an “infernal galop,” brandishing lances and maces,
+and keeping pretty fair time. The women keep outside the lines, dance
+awkwardly and scream like catamounts. Beyond them are the children,
+greasy with red ochre and ornamented with beads, keeping time with their
+feet to the inward movement. One woman runs into the midst of the men and
+sprinkles ashes promiscuously on all from a gourd. She is fat and ugly,
+but evidently an important part of the occasion.</p>
+
+<p><!--295.png--><span class="pagenum">288</span></p>
+
+<p>These people are bright, and argue in favor of their materialistic belief
+with great shrewdness. The Colonel tried to illustrate his belief by
+placing a grain of corn in the ground and observing:&mdash;“That represents
+you when you die.” Covering it with earth, he continued, “The grain will
+decay, but from it will arise a plant that will reproduce it again in its
+original form.”</p>
+
+<p>“Precisely,” said old Comorro, brother of Moy, “that I understand. But
+the original grain does not rise again; it rots like the dead man and is
+ended; so I die, and am ended; but my children grow up like the fruit of
+the grain. Some have no children; some grains perish; then all is ended.”</p>
+
+<p>Here we remain for two weeks, waiting till Ibrahim comes back from
+Gondokoro, whither he had gone with ivory, and whence he has promised
+to bring a supply of ammunition. Meanwhile we must enjoy a hunt, for
+evidences of game are plenty. We are soon out among the long grasses,
+when suddenly a huge rhinoceros bolts from the copse close at hand. The
+Colonel calls on his companions to bring a gun, but instead of obeying
+they set up a cry, which is to call attention to a herd of bull elephants
+in the forest at the end of the grassy plain. Two of the herd spy him and
+come bearing down upon him. He dismounts to get a shot, but the beasts
+see the dusky Latookas and rush off again to join their companions. The
+Colonel quickly mounts and dashes after them, but his horse falls into a
+buffalo hole and throws him. Mounting again, he pursues, but his game has
+gotten well into the forest. On he goes after the herd, to find himself
+in close quarters with a huge beast that comes tearing along, knocking
+down everything in his track. Firing unsteadily from the saddle, he
+lodges a bullet in the animal’s shoulder. It turns and makes directly
+for its assailant, bellowing like a demon. The Colonel puts spurs to
+his horse, and makes his escape. Arming himself with a heavier gun, he
+returns to the attack and soon sees the herd again, moving toward him.
+One princely fellow has a splendid pair of tusks. This he singles out for
+his game. The elephants at first flee on his approach, but on finding
+themselves pursued they turn
+and<!--296.png--><span class="pagenum">289</span>
+give battle. There is no safety there,
+and again he retreats. A third trial brings him upon the beast he has
+wounded. It is maddened with pain and dashes at him. Trusting to his
+horse he rushes out of the tangle. The beast does not give up pursuit but
+follows on. His horse is jaded, and the riding is dangerous owing to the
+buffalo holes. The beast gains, and the Colonel’s cowardly companions
+give no help. A moment more and the beast will be on him. He suddenly
+wheels his horse, and hears the swish of the elephant’s trunk past his
+ears, as the monster beast plunges on in its direct course. It gives
+over the chase, and keeps on up the hill. It is found dead next morning
+from the effects of the bullet wound. Elephant meat is highly prized by
+the natives, and the fat also. With the latter they mix the pigments for
+their bodies. Their favorite method of capturing the animal is by pits,
+dug very deep in the animal’s path and covered over with light brambles
+and grasses. They seldom attack with spears, except when they fire the
+grasses. Then they take advantage of the panic which ensues and attack at
+close quarters.</p>
+
+<p>Ibrahim returns with plenty of ammunition and reports that he is going to
+the Obbo country. We are delighted, for it is directly on our way to the
+“Lakes of the Nile.” So we all go together. The country between Latooka
+and Obbo, a distance of forty miles, is very beautiful. It abounds in
+mountains on whose impregnable peaks native villages are seen, and in
+green valleys filled with game. Wild fruit and nuts are also found in
+plenty. The journey is easy and quick. The chief of Obbo is Katchiba,
+an old clownish man who did not beg, for a wonder. He gives a dance in
+our honor, which is really an artistic affair. The dusky dancers kept
+excellent time to their drums and sang a wild chorus with considerable
+effect. The Obbo men wear dresses of skin slung around their shoulders,
+but the women are nearly naked&mdash;the unmarried girls entirely so.</p>
+
+<p>The secret of Chief Katchiba’s power over his tribe is sorcery.</p>
+
+<p>When his people displease him he threatens to curse their goats or wither
+their flocks. Should rain fail to fall, he tells them he is sorry they
+have behaved so badly toward him
+as<!--297.png--><span class="pagenum">290</span>
+to merit such a punishment. Should
+it rain too much, he threatens to pour lightning, storm and rain on them
+eternally, if they don’t bring him their contribution of goats, corn and
+beer. They always receive his blessing before starting on a journey,
+believing it will avert evil. In sickness he is called to charm away
+the disease. And the old fellow receives so many presents of daughters
+that he is able to keep a harem in every village of his tribe. He counts
+116 living children. Each village is ruled by a son, so that the whole
+government is a family affair.</p>
+
+<p>The fine old fellow treats us like princes, and gives us much information
+about the country to the south. The Colonel leaves his wife in the old
+chief’s care, and we take a little trip, with eight men, to test the
+accuracy of the old chief’s story about the high water in the river
+Ashua. We pass through a magnificent country and find the river a
+roaring torrent. The chief’s story was true. We return to find Mrs.
+Baker in excellent health and spirits having been kindly cared for
+during our absence. But the old chief has fared rather badly. He wanted
+some chickens to present to Mrs. Baker. His people proved stingy, and
+Katchiba, who could not walk much on account of his infirmities, the
+chief of which was a head always befuddled with beer, came to ask for
+the loan of a horse, that he might appear on his back among his people
+and thus strike terror into them. His former method of travel had been
+to mount on the back of his subjects, and thus make his state journeys,
+followed by one of the strongest of his wives, bearing the inevitable
+beer pitcher.</p>
+
+<p>Though warned by Mrs. Baker of the danger attending such an experiment as
+he proposed, he persisted, and one of the blooded Abyssinian animals was
+brought out equipped for a ride. The old chief mounted and told his horse
+to go. The animal did not understand and stood still. “Hit him with your
+stick,” said one of the attendants. Thwack! came the chief’s staff across
+the animal’s shoulders. Quick as lightning a pair of heels flew into the
+air, and the ancient specimen of African royalty shot over the horse’s
+head and lay sprawling on the ground. He picked himself up, considerably
+bruised
+and<!--298.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">291</a></span>
+sprained, took a wondering look at the horse, and decided
+that riding a beast of that kind, where one had so far to fall, was not
+in his line.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 402px;">
+<img src="images/i_291.jpg" width="402" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A ROYAL JOURNEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Since we cannot go on with our journey till the rivers
+to<!--299.png--><span class="pagenum">292</span>
+the south
+of us fall, it is best to go back to Latooka, where supplies are more
+abundant. Katchiba sends us off amid a noisy drum ceremony and with his
+blessing, his brother going along as a guide. There is a new member of
+the party, one Ibrahimawa, who had been to all the ends of the earth,
+as soldier and adventurer. He was of Bornu birth, but had been captured
+when a boy, and taken into the service of the Sultan of Turkey. Even now
+he was connected with the Turkish garrison, or squad of observation, at
+Latooka. He got the whole party into a pretty mess the second day after
+starting back for Latooka, by bringing in a basketful of fine yams, which
+happened to be of a poisonous variety. On eating them, all got sick, and
+had to submit to the penalty of a quick emetic, which brought them round
+all right.</p>
+
+<p>We now journey easily through the great Latooka, where game is so
+abundant. In sight is a herd of antelope. The Colonel dismounts to stalk
+them, but a swarm of baboons spy him and at once set up such a chattering
+and screeching that the antelope take the alarm and make off. One of
+the baboons was shot. It was as large as a mastiff and had a long brown
+mane like a lion. This was taken by the natives for a body ornament.
+That same evening the Colonel goes out in quest of other game. A herd of
+giraffes appear, with their long necks stretched up toward the leaves of
+the mimosa trees, on which they are feeding. He tries to stalk them, but
+the wary beasts run away in alarm. He follows them for a long way in vain
+chase. They were twice as fleet as his horse.</p>
+
+<p>We are back again at Latooka. But how changed the scene. The small pox is
+raging among both natives and Turks. We cannot encamp in the town. Mrs.
+Baker falls sick with fever. Two horses, three camels and five donkeys
+die for us. King Moy had induced the Turks to join him in an attack on
+the Kayala tribe, and the combined forces had been beaten. Thus more
+enemies had been made. It was no place to stay. So we must back to Obbo,
+and the old chief Katchiba.</p>
+
+<p>But here things are even worse. The small pox is there ahead of us,
+carried by careless natives or dirty,
+unprincipled<!--300.png--><span class="pagenum">293</span>
+Moslem traders, and
+the whole town is in misery. A party of roving traders had raided it and
+carried off nearly the whole stock of cows and oxen. Our horses all die,
+and most of our other animals, under the attacks of the dreadful tsetse
+fly. Both the Colonel and Mrs. Baker fall sick with fever, and the old
+chief comes in to cure them by enchantment. It rains nearly all the time,
+and rats and even snakes seek the huts out of the wet. Our stay of two
+months here is dreary enough, and the wonder is that any of us ever get
+away.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the Colonel and Lady Baker can go out they pay a visit to
+Katchiba, which he appreciates, and invites them into his private
+quarters. It is only a brewery, where his wives are busy preparing his
+favorite beer. The old chief invites them to a seat, takes up something
+which passes for a harp, and asks if he may sing. Expecting something
+ludicrous, they consent, but are surprised to hear a really well sung and
+neatly accompanied air. The old fellow is evidently as expert in music as
+in beer drinking.</p>
+
+<p>Waiting is awful in any African village during the rainy or any other
+season, and especially if the low fevers of the country are in your
+system. We have really lost from May to October, on account of the
+fullness of the streams south of us. Our stock of quinine is nearly gone;
+our cattle are all dead. Shall we go on? If so, it must be afoot. And
+afoot it shall be, for we have met an Unyoro slave woman who tells as
+well as she can about a lake called Luta N’Zige, very nearly where we
+expect to find the Albert Nyanza.</p>
+
+<p>Now the rains have ceased. Wonderful country! Crops spring up as if by
+magic, especially the tullaboon, or African corn. But the elephants like
+it and play havoc by night in the green fields. The Colonel, all ague
+shaken as he is, determines to have a night’s sport and to bring in some
+meat which he knows the natives will relish. Starting with a servant and
+a goodly supply of heavy rifles&mdash;among them is “The Baby,” which carries
+a half pound explosive shell&mdash;he digs a watch hole near a corn field.
+Into this they creep, and are soon notified of the presence of a herd of
+elephants by the crunching of
+the<!--301.png--><span class="pagenum">294</span>
+crisp grain. It is dark, but by and
+by one approaches within twelve paces. Taking the range of the shoulder
+as well as he can, the contents of “Baby” are sent on their murderous
+errand. It was then safe to beat a retreat. Next morning the elephant is
+found near the pit. He is still standing, but soon drops dead. The shot
+was fatal, but not for several hours. And now such a time as there is
+among the natives. Three hundred of them gather, and soon dispose of the
+carcass with their knives and lances. The huge beast was ten feet six
+inches in height.</p>
+
+<p>By January, the waters in the rivers and gulches have subsided enough to
+admit of travel. Katchiba gives us three oxen&mdash;two for pack animals, and
+one for Mrs. Baker to ride upon. With these, and a few attendants, we
+start for the south. But Ibrahim precedes us with an armed body of Turks.
+He is penetrating the country further in search of ivory and booty. It is
+well for us to follow in his trail, unless forsooth he should get into a
+fight.</p>
+
+<p>The Colonel walks eighteen miles to Farajoke where he purchases a riding
+ox. On January 13, Shooa is reached. It is a veritable land of plenty.
+There are fowls, goats, butter, milk, and food of all kinds. The natives
+are delighted to see us, and are greedy for our beads and trumpery. They
+bring presents of flour and milk to Mrs. Baker, who showers upon them
+her trinkets in return. The people are not unlike the Obbo’s, but their
+agriculture is very superior. Our five days here are days of real rest
+and refreshment.</p>
+
+<p>We make an eight mile march to Fatiko, where the natives are still more
+friendly. But they insist on such vigorous shaking of hands and such
+tiresome ceremonies of introduction, that we must hasten away. And now
+our march is still through a beautiful country for several days. We
+gradually approach the Karuma Falls, close to the village of Atada, on
+the opposite side of the river. It is the Unyoro country whose king is
+Kamrasi.</p>
+
+<p>The natives swarm on their bank of the river, and soon a fleet of canoes
+comes across. Their occupants are informed that Col. Baker wishes to
+see the king, in order to thank him
+for<!--302.png--><span class="pagenum">295</span>
+the kindness he had extended
+to the two Englishmen, Speke and Grant on their visit. The boatmen are
+suspicious, for only a short time before a party of Arab traders had
+allied themselves with Kamrasi’s enemies and slain 300 of his people. It
+takes two whole days to overcome the king’s suspicions, and many gifts of
+beads and trinkets. Finally we are ferried across, but oh! the tedious
+wait to get a royal interview! And then the surprise, when it did come.</p>
+
+<p>There sits the king on a copper stool placed on a carpet of leopard
+skins, surrounded by his ten principal chiefs. He is six feet tall, of
+dark brown skin, pleasing countenance, clothed in a long rich robe of
+bark-cloth, with well dressed hands and feet, and perfectly clean. Baker
+explains his object in calling and gives rich presents, among which is
+a double barrelled gun. The king takes to the gun and orders it to be
+fired off. The attendants run away in fright, at which the king laughs
+heartily, as though he had discovered a new test for their courage or
+played a capital joke. He then makes return presents, among which are
+seventeen cows.</p>
+
+<p>Thus friendship is established. The king asks for our help against the
+Riongas, his bitterest enemies. We decline, but in turn ask for porters
+and guides. The king promises heartily, but as often breaks his promises,
+for his object is to keep us with him as long as we have presents to give.</p>
+
+<p>These chiefs, or kings, of the native tribes are the greatest nuisances
+in Africa&mdash;not even excepting the mosquitoes. They make the traveller
+pay court at every stage of his journey, and they know the value of
+delay in granting a hearing. The wrongs of the humble negro are many.
+His faults are as many, and among them are his careless good humor
+and light heartedness&mdash;things that in northern climes or under other
+circumstances might be classed as redeeming traits. But the faults of
+the average African king&mdash;there are exceptions to the rule&mdash;are such to
+try our patience in the extreme. He is as ignorant as his subjects, yet
+is complete master of their lives. His cruelty, rapacity and sensuality
+are nurtured in him from birth, and there is no antic he will not play in
+the name of his
+authority.<!--303.png--><span class="pagenum">296</span>
+In his own eyes he is a demi-god, yet he is
+seen by visitors only as a dirty, freakish, cruel, tantalizing savage,
+insisting upon a court which has no seriousness about it.</p>
+
+<p>Accomplished and friendly as King Kamrasi seems to be, he is full of
+duplicity, cruelty, and rapacity. Speke and Grant complained of his
+inordinate greed, and we have just seen for what motive he delayed us
+for three weeks. And scarcely have we gone ten miles when he overtakes
+us, to ask for other presents and the Colonel’s watch, for which he had
+taken a great fancy. On being refused this, he coolly informs the Colonel
+that he would send his party to the lake according to promise, but that
+he must leave Mrs. Baker behind with him. The Colonel draws his revolver
+and, placing it at the breast of the king, explains the insult conveyed
+in such a proposition in civilized countries, and tells him he would be
+warranted in riddling him on the spot, if he dared to repeat the request,
+or rather command. Mrs. Baker makes known her horror of the proposition,
+and the crafty king, finding his cupidity has carried him too far, says
+he has no intention of offending. “I will give you a wife if you want
+one,” he continued, “and I thought you might give me yours. I have given
+visitors many pretty wives. Don’t be offended. I will never mention the
+matter again.” To make further amends he sends along with our party
+several women as luggage carriers, as far as to the next village.</p>
+
+<p>To show how prankish and pitiable royalty is among even a tribe like the
+Unyoro’s, who dress with some care, and disdain the less intelligent
+tribes about them, it turned out that this Kamrasi was not the real king
+at all, but only a substitute, and that the regularly annointed Kamrasi
+was in a fit of the sulks off in his private quarters, all the time of
+our visit.</p>
+
+<p>The march is now a long one of eighteen days through the dense forests
+and swamps of the Kafoor River. Mrs. Baker is sick with fever incident
+to a sun-stroke, and has to be borne upon a litter most of the way. In
+crossing the Kafoor upon the “sponge,” it yields to the weight of the
+footmen, and she is saved from sinking beneath the treacherous surface
+by the Colonel, who orders the men to quickly lay their burden
+down<!--304.png--><span class="pagenum">297</span>
+and
+scatter. The “sponge” proves strong enough to bear the weight of the
+litter alone, and it is safely hauled on to a firmer part by her husband
+and an attendant.</p>
+
+<p>We are now near our goal and all the party are enthusiastic. Ascending
+a gentle slope, on a beautiful clear morning, the glory of our prize
+suddenly bursts upon us. There, like a sea of quicksilver, lays far
+beneath us the grand expanse of waters&mdash;the Luta Nzig&eacute; then, but soon
+to be christened the Albert Nyanza. Its white waves break on a pebbly
+beach fifteen hundred feet below us. On the west, fifty or sixty miles
+distant, blue mountains rise to a height of 7000 feet. Northward the
+gleaming expanse of waters seem limitless. Here is the reward of all our
+labor. It is a basin worthy of its great function as a gathering place of
+the headwaters of the Nile, which issue in a full grown stream from its
+northern end.</p>
+
+<p>Using Colonel Baker’s own language,&mdash;“Long before I reached the spot I
+had arranged to give three English cheers in honor of the discovery, but
+now that I looked down upon the great inland sea lying nestled in the
+very heart of Africa, and thought how vainly mankind had sought these
+sources throughout so many ages, and reflected that I had been the humble
+instrument permitted to unravel this portion of the great mystery when so
+many greater than I had failed, I felt too serious to vent my feelings in
+vain cheers for victory, and I sincerely thanked God for having guided
+and supported us through all dangers to the good end. As I looked down
+from the steep granite cliffs upon those welcome waters, on that vast
+reservoir which nourished Egypt and brought fertility where all was
+wilderness, on that great source so long hidden from mankind; that source
+of bounty and of blessings to millions of human beings; and as one of the
+greatest objects in nature, I determined to honor it with a great name.
+As an imperishable memorial of one loved and mourned by our gracious
+Queen and deplored by every Englishman, I called the great lake ‘the
+Albert Nyanza.’ The Victoria and the Albert Lakes are the two sources of
+the Nile. My wife, who had followed me so devotedly, stood by my side,
+pale and exhausted&mdash;a wreck
+upon<!--305.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">298</a></span>
+the shores of the great Albert Lake
+that we had so long striven to reach. No European foot had ever trod upon
+its sand, nor had the eyes of a white man ever scanned its vast expanse
+of water. We were the first; and this was the key to the great secret
+that even Julius C&aelig;sar yearned to unravel, but in vain.”</p>
+
+<p>And now the lake is christened. We rush down to the shores and bathe our
+feet in its clear fresh waters. Then we prepare a frail canoe, large
+enough to carry our party of thirteen and manned with twenty oarsmen. In
+this we skirt the lake northward from where we first touch it at Vacovia.
+The journey is full of novelty. Every now and then we get a shot at a
+crocodile, or a hippopotamus, and herds of elephants are seen along the
+shores. Thunder storms are frequent, making the navigation dangerous.
+The heat at midday drives us into the shade. Our work hours are in the
+mornings and evenings. Here we pass under beetling precipices that line
+this eastern shore, down which jets of water&mdash;each a Nile source&mdash;are
+seen plunging from the height of a thousand feet. There we float through
+flat wastes of reeds, and water plants and floating rafts of vegetable
+matter in every stage of growth and decay.</p>
+
+<p>On the thirteenth day we reach the point where the waters from Lake
+Victoria Nyanza enter the Albert Nyanza. They pour in through the
+Victoria River, or as some call it, the Somerset River. Now arises a
+momentous question. Shall we go further. If we are not back in Gondokoro
+in a few weeks we may leave our bones in Central Africa. We are a
+fatigued, even a sick party, and the season is approaching when a white
+man had better be away from under the Equator. The Colonel proposes to
+forego further navigation and return. Lady Baker, with a fervor the
+Colonel seems to have lost, proposes to go to the other end of the lake
+in order to make sure that it is an ultimate reservoir of the Nile.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i_299.jpg" width="400" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE MURCHISON FALLS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Away off northward from where we are, some thirty miles, can be seen
+with the glasses the outlet of the lake&mdash;the Nile. It is settled that
+the inflow from Victoria Nyanza and the outlet northward are thus close
+together. But is that outlet
+the<!--306.png--><span class="pagenum">299</span>
+Nile after all? Lady Baker wants to
+settle this question too, and she proposes, after circumnavigating the
+lake and
+proving<!--307.png--><span class="pagenum">300</span>
+that it is an ultimate source, to descend the Nile
+through the northern outlet. But the Colonel urges want of time. The
+attendants tell horrible stories of dangerous falls and hostile natives.
+So we decide against Mrs. Baker, and, taking the Colonel’s advice, begin
+to ascend the Victoria Nile toward lake Victoria Nyanza, that being
+in the direction of our homeward march. We go but a few miles till a
+new marvel greets us&mdash;the Murchison Falls. On either side of the river
+are beautiful wooded cliffs 300 feet high. Bold rocks jut out from an
+intensely green foliage. Rushing through a gap in the rock directly ahead
+of us, the river, contracted from a broad stream above, grows narrower
+and narrower, till where the gorge is scarcely fifty yards wide, it
+makes one stupendous leap over a precipice 120 feet high, into the dark
+abyss below. The river then widens and grows sluggish again. Anywhere
+can be seen numberless crocodiles. While the Colonel is sketching the
+Falls, one of these animals comes close to the boat. He cannot resist a
+shot at it. The canoemen are disturbed and allow the boat to get an ugly
+swing on them. It strikes into a bunch of reeds, when out rushes a huge
+hippopotamus in fright and bumps against the canoe, almost oversetting it.</p>
+
+<p>There are cataracts innumerable on the Nile, but this is its greatest
+water fall, and a majestic picture it is. Our return journey to Gondokoro
+repeats many of our former experiences. We revisit the same tribes and
+meet with the same adventures. Kartoum is reached in May, 1865. Then we
+go by boat to Berber, and thence by caravan across the desert to Sonakim
+on the Red Sea, where a steamer is taken for England, and where the
+Colonel receives the medal bestowed on him by the Royal Geographical
+Society.</p>
+
+<p>In concluding this long journey we must ever regret that Colonel Baker
+did not do more to make sure of the honors of his discovery. Since then
+Gordon Pasha and M. Gessi have navigated Albert Nyanza. They curtailed
+the proportions it showed on first maps, and proved that, as Lady Baker
+supposed, it had a southern inlet, which was traced for a hundred miles
+till it ended in a mighty ambatch swamp, or collection
+of<!--308.png--><span class="pagenum">301</span>
+stagnant
+waters, which may be counted as the Lake Nzige of the natives, and of
+which Colonel Baker so often heard.</p>
+
+<p>These travellers also settled forever one of the delusions under which
+Livingstone ever labored, and that was, that the sources of the Nile must
+be sought as far south as the great Lake Tanganyika, and even further.</p>
+
+<p>Since then, other travellers have traced the whole course of the Victoria
+Nile to Lake Victoria Nyanza, discovering on their way a new lake,
+Ibrahim. And this brings us to Victoria Nyanza again, which must be
+studied more fully, for after all we may not have seen in Albert Nyanza,
+so much of an ultimate Nile reservoir as we thought. It is hard too, of
+course, to rob our travels of their glory, but we cannot bear laurels at
+the expense of after discovered truth.</p>
+
+<p>It was in 1858 that Speke and Grant, pushing their perilous way westward
+from Zanzibar on the east coast of Africa, discovered and partly
+navigated Lake Tanganyika, probably the greatest fresh water reservoir in
+Central Africa. On their return journey, and while resting at Unyanyembe,
+Speke heard from an Arab source of a still larger lake to the north.
+Grant was suspicious of the information, and remained where he was,
+while Speke made a trial. After a three weeks march over an undulating
+country, intersected by streams flowing northward, he came in view (July
+30, 1858) of the head of a deep gulf expanding to the north. Pursuing
+his journey along its eastern cliffs, he saw that it opened into an
+ocean-like expanse of water, girted by forests on the right and left, but
+stretching eastward and northward into space. He felt that he stood on a
+Nile source, but could not inquire further then.</p>
+
+<p>When he returned to England and made his discovery known, powerful
+arguments sprang up about these Nile sources. Speke and one school
+contended the Nile reservoirs were under the equator and that Victoria
+Nyanza was one of them, if not the only one. Burton and others contended
+that Tanganyika, and perhaps a series of lakes further south, must be the
+true sources. So in 1860 Speke and Grant were back in Africa, determined
+to solve the mystery. They were kept back
+by<!--309.png--><span class="pagenum">302</span>
+delays till 1862, when,
+as we have seen, they caught sight of the lake they sought. Keeping on
+high ground, they followed it northward to Uganda where they fell in
+with Mtesa, the king. Mtesa has been painted in all sorts of colors by
+different explorers. Speke and Grant formed the worst possible opinion of
+him, but they passed through his dominions safely, till they came to the
+northern outlet of the lake&mdash;the Victoria Nile. Taking for granted that
+this was the real Nile, they cut across the country to Gondokoro, where
+they met Baker on his southern march, as we have already seen.</p>
+
+<p>This unsatisfactory journey did not set controversy at rest. Speke’s
+opponents ridiculed the idea of a body of water, 250 miles long and 7000
+feet above the sea level, existing right under the Equator. Moreover they
+denied that its northern outlet was the Nile, or if so, that there must
+be a southern inlet. All the old maps located the sources of the stream
+further south. Colonel Baker heard a native story, in 1869, to the effect
+that boats had gone from Albert Nyanza to Ujiji on lake Tanganyika.
+Livingstone held firmly to the opinion that all these equatorial lakes
+were one with Tanganyika&mdash;till he disproved it himself. He never was
+convinced that Victoria Nyanza existed at all as Speke had mapped it, nor
+that it had any connection with the Nile River.</p>
+
+<p>Thus what Baker and Speke and Grant had been glorying in as great
+discoveries, but which they failed to establish by full research, was
+still a puzzle. They are not to be robbed of any honors, but it is not
+claiming too much to say that the real discoverer of the true Nile
+reservoir is due to the American Stanley. At least he resolved to solve
+the problem finally and set discussion at rest. He would establish the
+claims of Victoria Nyanza to vastness and to its functions as a Nile
+source, or show it up as a humbug.</p>
+
+<p>Henry M. Stanley is no ordinary figure among African explorers. In
+tenacity of purpose, courage and endurance, he is second only to
+Livingstone. In originality, insight and crowning effort, he is ahead
+of all. He introduced a new method of African travel and brought a new
+power at his back. Already he had,
+under<!--310.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">303</a></span>
+the auspices of the New York
+<i>Herald</i>, made a successful Central African journey and “discovered
+Livingstone.” On his present expedition he was accredited to both
+American and English papers, and bore the flags of the two countries. He
+travelled in a half scientific and half military fashion.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 327px;">
+<img src="images/i_303.jpg" width="327" height="500"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">HENRY M. STANLEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>He started from Zanzibar November 17, 1874. Let the reader keep in mind
+that this was his second exploring trip into Africa&mdash;the first having
+been made a few years before under the auspices of the New York <i>Herald</i>
+for the rescue of Livingstone, if alive. Here, in his own words, is the
+gallant young leader’s order of march:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><!--311.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">304</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_304.jpg" width="600" height="349"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">STANLEY ON THE MARCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--312.png--><span class="pagenum">305</span></p>
+
+<p>“Four chiefs, a few hundred yards in front; next, twelve guides, clad
+in red robes of Jobo, bearing coils of wire; then a long file, two
+hundred and seventy strong, bearing cloth, wire, beads, and sections of
+the <i>Lady Alice</i>; after them, thirty-six women and ten boys, children
+of the chiefs, and boat-bearers, followed by riding-asses, Europeans,
+and gun-bearers; the long line closed by sixteen chiefs, who act as
+rearguard: in all, three hundred and fifty-six souls connected with the
+Anglo-American expedition. The lengthy line occupies nearly half a mile
+of the path.”</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Stanley did not mean to be stopped on the route he had chosen by
+the objections of any native chief to the passage of the little army
+through his territory. If the opposition were carried to the extent of
+a challenge of battle, the American explorer was prepared to accept it
+and fight his way through. In this way he counted on avoiding the long
+delays, the roundabout routes, and the fragmentary results which had
+marked the efforts of previous travellers. It is an admirable method,
+if your main object is to get through the work rapidly, if you are
+strong enough to despise all assaults, and if you have no prospect of
+travelling the same road again. Its wisdom and justifiableness need
+not be discussed; but it may simply be remarked that this conjunction
+of campaigning and exploration gives an extra spice of danger and an
+exciting variety to the narrative, which carries us back to the time when
+the Conquistadors of Spain and Portugal carved their rich conquests into
+the heart of Mexico and South America.</p>
+
+<p>He carried with him the sections of a boat, forty feet long, with which
+to explore the Victoria Nyanza, or any other lake or stream he might
+discover. It was named the “Lady Alice.” He had only three English
+assistants&mdash;two Thames watermen by the name of Francis and Edward Pocock,
+and a clerk named Frederick Barker&mdash;none of whom emerged alive from the
+African wilds into which they plunged so light heartedly.</p>
+
+<p>Unyanyembe is the half-way station between Zanzibar and the lakes of
+interior Africa. It is simply a headquarters for slave stealers and a
+regular trading den for land pirates.
+Stanley<!--313.png--><span class="pagenum">306</span>
+turned to the northwest
+before reaching this place, and in about the fifth degree south latitude
+came upon the water shed which separates the waters trending northward
+from those running southward. Here in a plain 5000 feet above the sea,
+and 2500 miles in a straight line from the Mediterranean, seemed clearly
+to be the most southerly limit of the Nile basin.</p>
+
+<p>And here Stanley’s real difficulties began. The party suffered from want
+of food and lost their way. Sickness fell upon the camp, and Edward
+Pocock died. The natives themselves were hostile, and Mirambo, chief of
+the Ruga-Rugas, a noted freebooter, was in the neighborhood with his
+band of cut-throats. By and by the storm clouds burst in war, not with
+the bandits however, but with the Ituru tribe. The battle was fought for
+three days against great odds. It resulted in the complete discomfiture
+of the foe, but with a loss to Stanley of twenty-four killed and wounded.
+The weakened expedition moved on bearing twenty-five men on the sick list.</p>
+
+<p>They were now in the valley of the Shimeeyu, an affluent of Victoria
+Nyanza from the south. It was followed through dense forests over which
+loomed enormous bare rocks like castles, and hillocks of splintered
+granite and gneiss, and then through fine rolling plains, rich in pasture
+lands, hedge inclosed villages and herds of wild and tame animals.
+Compared with what he had passed through it was a grand and glorious
+country.</p>
+
+<p>Provisions could be had readily and cheaply&mdash;corn, potatoes, fruit, goats
+and chickens. The half starved men indulged in feasting and marched with
+recovered strength and confidence. Murmuring and doubt died away. The
+native attendants who had shown unmistakable proofs of faithfulness in
+the midst of trial were specially rewarded.</p>
+
+<p>The lake was near at hand. As they dipped through the troughs of land,
+mounted ridge after ridge, crossed water courses and ravines, passed
+cultivated fields and through villages smelling of cattle, a loud
+hurrahing in front told that the great Lake Victoria Nyanza had been
+sighted. It was February 27, 1875. The spot was Kagehyi, not far from
+where Speke had struck
+it.<!--314.png--><span class="pagenum">307</span>
+Six hundred feet beneath them, and three
+miles away, lay a long broad arm of water shining like silver in the
+bright sunshine, bordered by lines of green waving rushes, groves of
+trees and native huts.</p>
+
+<p>No time was lost in getting the “Lady Alice” ready, and on March 8 she
+was launched and her prow turned northward. Her occupants were Stanley, a
+steersman, and ten oarsmen or sailors. Frank Pocock and Barker were left
+at Kagehyi in charge of the remainder of the party.</p>
+
+<p>Now began a journey full of thrilling events. Almost every day brought
+its danger from storm, shoal, animal or hostile natives. For weeks the
+shores of the Nyanza stretched on, promontory behind promontory, and
+still the tired mariners toiled along the margin of the unknown lands
+on their lee, and out and in among the numerous islands. From the
+starting point round the eastern shore, the coast shows a succession of
+bold headland and deep bay, at the head of which is generally a river
+draining the highlands behind. Sometimes a dark mountain mass, covered
+with wood, overhangs the waters, rising abruptly to a height of three
+thousand feet or more; and then again there will intervene between
+the hills and the lake an open plain, grazed over by herds of zebras,
+antelopes, and giraffes. There is great diversity also in the islands.
+Many of them are bare masses of rock, supporting no green blade; others
+are swathed to the summit in masses of rank intertwisted vegetation that
+excludes the perpendicular rays of the sun. Some of the smallest are
+highly cultivated, and occupied by a dense population; one or two of the
+largest, such as Ugingo, betray no sign of human beings inhabiting their
+dismal shades.</p>
+
+<p>Generally the region is rocky, broken, hilly, and intensely tropical in
+character. Behind the coast ranges absolutely nothing is known beyond
+a few vague reports picked up from native sources. The rivers are not
+large, and it is not probable that they have their sources so far off
+as the great snowy range that runs down midway between the lake and the
+east coast of Africa. Some geographers have chosen to call this chain
+by the old name of “Mountains of the Moon,” throwing the
+old<!--315.png--><span class="pagenum">308</span>
+land mark
+from the southern borders of Sahara to a point quite south of the equator
+and at right angles with their former direction. Between the lake and
+these snow-capped mountains roam the Mdai, a fierce pastoral tribe that
+subsists by plundering its weaker neighbors.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley heard of hills that smoked in these ranges, and probably they
+contain active volcanoes. He also heard of the mythical Lake Baringo
+further north. This lake has appeared almost everywhere on African maps.
+If it is ever found, it may prove to be the reservoir of the Ashua, an
+important Nile tributary, after the stream leaves both Victoria and
+Albert Nyanza.</p>
+
+<p>Before reaching the northernmost point of the lake the “Lady Alice”
+had passed through several disastrous storms and escaped many perilous
+shoals. She had also met the fierce opposition of the Victoria
+hippopotamus. This behemoth of an animal abounds here, as it does in
+all the waters of tropical Africa; but while in most other places it
+refrains from attacking man, unless provoked, it was found on the
+Victoria Lake to be of a peculiarly bellicose disposition. A few hours
+after starting on his voyage, Stanley was driven off the land and put to
+ignominious flight by a herd of savage hippopotami sallying out towards
+him open-mouthed. On another occasion, the rowers had to pull for bare
+life to escape the furious charge of a monster whose temper had been
+ruffled by the boat coming in contact with his back as he was rising to
+the surface to breathe. Probably the hippopotamus of the Victoria would
+be no more courageous than his neighbors if he were met with on land.
+There he always cuts a ridiculous figure, as he waddles along with his
+short legs and bulky body in search of the grass on which he feeds. He
+seems to know that he is at a disadvantage on <i>terra firma</i>, which, he
+seldom visits except by night. When interrupted, he makes the best of
+his way back to the water, where his great strength always makes him a
+formidable antagonist. On the Victoria Nyanza the inhabitants do not seem
+to have discovered the methods of killing him practised by the natives of
+the Zambesi, by capturing him in pit falls, or setting traps that bring a
+heavy log, armed with a long iron spike, down on his stupid skull.</p>
+
+<p><!--316.png--><span class="pagenum">309</span></p>
+
+<p>But these were not the only ugly customers the crew of the “Lady Alice”
+had to contend with on the Victoria Nyanza. Frequently when the boat
+neared the shore, lithe figures could be seen flitting between the trees
+and savage eyes peering at her through the dense foliage. If an attempt
+were made to land a wild looking crowd would swarm upon the shore,
+poising their spears threateningly or placing their arrows in their bows.
+Though these forms are not so terrible as the Red Indian in war paint or
+the wild Papuan with his frizzly mop of hair, their natural hideousness
+is pretty well increased by tattooing and greasy paint. They are
+treacherous, cruel, vindictive, and one cast away on their shores would
+stand a poor chance of telling his own story.</p>
+
+<p>At a point near the northeastern extremity of the lake Mr. Stanley was
+induced to come close to shore by the friendly gestures of half-a-dozen
+natives. As the boat was pulled nearer, the group on the shore rapidly
+increased, and it was thought prudent to halt. Instantly there started
+out of the jungle a forest of spears, and a crowd of yelling savages
+rushed down in hot haste to the margin, lest their hospitable intentions
+towards the strangers should be balked. The boat, however, to the
+astonishment of these primitive black men, hoisted a great sail to the
+favoring land breeze, which carried it out to an island where the crew
+could camp and sleep in safety for the night. A little further on, while
+off the island of Ugamba, a large native canoe, manned by forty rowers
+and adorned with a waving mane of long grasses, was pulled confidently
+towards the mysterious craft. After reconnoitering it for a little,
+they edged up alongside, half of the occupants of the canoe standing up
+and brandishing their tufted spears. These visitors had been drinking
+freely of pombe to keep up their courage. They were noisy, impudent, and
+obstreperous; and finding that the white man and his companions remained
+quiet and patient, they began to reel tipsily about the boat, shout out
+their drunken choruses, and freely handle the property and persons of the
+strangers. Gradually they grew still more unpleasantly aggressive. One
+drunken rascal whirled his sling over Stanley’s head and,
+cheered<!--317.png--><span class="pagenum">310</span>
+by
+his companions, seemed about to aim the stone at the white man. Suddenly
+Stanley, who had his revolver ready in his hand, fired a shot into the
+water. In an instant the boat was clear of the intruders, every one of
+whom had plunged into the water at sound of the pistol, and was swimming
+lustily for the shore. With some little trouble their fears were allayed
+and the humbled roisterers, sobered by their dip, came meekly back for
+their abandoned canoe. Presents were exchanged and all parted good
+friends.</p>
+
+<p>He did not fare so well with the Wavuma tribe. They attracted Stanley’s
+attention by sending out a canoe loaded with provisions and gifts. But
+shoreward suddenly appeared a whole fleet of canoes, evidently bent on
+surrounding the “Lady Alice.” As her crew bent to their oars in order
+to escape, a storm of lances came upon them from the first canoe, whose
+captain held up a string of beads in a tantalizing manner which he had
+stolen from the white man’s boat. Stanley fired upon him and doubled him
+up in his boat. Then using his larger rifle he punctured the foremost of
+the other canoes with heavy bullets below the water line, so that they
+had enough to do to keep them from sinking. They ceased to give chase and
+the “Lady Alice” escaped.</p>
+
+<p>Directly north of Victoria Nyanza is Uganda or the country of the
+Waganda,<a name="Anchor-1" id="Anchor-1"></a><a href="#Footnote-1" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 1.">[1]</a>
+over which King Mtesa presides. Stanley struck the country
+on the next day after his adventure with the Wavuma. It was a revelation
+to him. He fancied he had, in a night, passed from Pagan Africa to
+Mohammedan Europe or Asia. Instead of the stones and spear thrusts of
+the Wavuma he met with nothing save courtesy and hospitality. In place
+of naked howling savages he now saw bronze-colored people, clean, neatly
+clad, with good houses, advanced agriculture, well adapted industry, and
+considerable knowledge of the arts.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a name="Footnote-1" id="Footnote-1"></a><a class="label" title="Return to text." href="#Anchor-1">[1]</a> <span class="smcap">Note</span>:&mdash;In Eastern and Central Africa, from the
+Lakes of the Nile to Hottentotland the native races belong to the Bantu
+division of the African stock. They are not so dark as, and in many
+respects differ from, the true negroes of the Western or Atlantic coast.
+Throughout this entire Bantu division the prefix “U” means a country.
+Thus U-ganda is the country of Ganda. So “Wa,” or in some places “Ba,”
+“Ma” or “Ama,” means people. Thus Wa-ganda means the people of Uganda. So
+would Ba-ganda, Ma-ganda, or Ama-ganda. “Ki” means the language. Ki-ganda
+is the language of the Uganda. “Mena” means the prince of a tribe. By
+recollecting these, the reader will be much assisted.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--318.png--><span class="pagenum">311</span></p>
+
+<p>The village chief approached attired in a white shirt, and a fine cloak
+of bark-cloth having over it a monkey skin fur. On his head was a
+handsome cap, on his feet sandals. His attendants were clothed in the
+same style, though less costly. He smilingly bade the strangers welcome,
+spread before them a feast of dressed kid, ripe bananas, clotted milk,
+sweet potatoes and eggs, with apologies for having been caught unprepared
+for his guests.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley looked on in wonder. It was a land of sunshine and plenty&mdash;a
+green and flowery Paradise set between the brilliant sky and the pure
+azure of the lake. Care and want seem never to have intruded here. There
+was food and to spare growing wild in the woods or in the cultivated
+patches around the snug homesteads. Every roomy, dome-shaped hut had its
+thatched portico where the inhabitants chatted and smoked. Surrounding
+them were court-yards, with buildings which served as barns, kitchens
+and wash-houses, all enclosed in trimly kept hedges. Outside was the
+peasants’ garden where crops of potatoes, yams, pease, kidney-beans
+and other vegetables grew of a size that would make a Florida gardner
+envious. Bordering the gardens were patches of tobacco, coffee,
+sugar-cane, and castor oil plant, all for family use. Still further
+beyond were fields of maize and other grains, and plantations of banana,
+plantain, and fig. Large commons afforded pasturage for flocks of goats
+and small, white, harmless cattle.</p>
+
+<p>The land is of inexhaustible fertility. The sunshine is unfailing;
+drought in this moist climate is unknown; and the air is cooled and
+purified by the breezes from the lake and from the mountains. Within his
+own inclosure the peasant has enough and to spare for himself and his
+household, both of luxuries and necessaries. His maize fields furnish
+him with the staff of life, and the fermented grain yields the “pombe,”
+which he regards almost as much a requisite of existence as bread itself.
+The grinding of flour and the brewing of beer are all performed under
+his own eye by his family. The fig-tree yields him the bark out of which
+his clothes are made; but the banana is, perhaps, the most indispensable
+of the gifts of
+nature<!--319.png--><span class="pagenum">312</span>
+in these climes. It supplies him, says Stanley,
+with “bread, potatoes, dessert, wine, beer, medicine, house and fence,
+bed, cloth, cooking-pot, table-cloth, parcel-wrapper, thread, cord, rope,
+sponge, bath, shield, sun-hat, and canoe. With it, he is happy, fat, and
+thriving; without it, a famished, discontented, woe-begone wretch.” The
+banana grows to perfection in Uganda; groves of it embower every village,
+and the Waganda in addition to being fat and prosperous have plenty of
+leisure for the arts of war and peace.</p>
+
+<p>They are unfortunately inclined to war, though they make cloth, tan
+skins, work in metals, and build houses and canoes. Even literature is
+not unknown among them. Well might Speke have said of Ripon Falls at the
+outlet of the Nile, with “a wife and family, a yacht and a gun, a dog
+and a rod, one might here be supremely happy and never wish to visit the
+haunts of civilization again.”</p>
+
+<p>Word is sent to the king of the arrival of the strangers. An escort
+comes inviting them to the court. The new comer quite eclipsed the
+village chiefs in the gorgeousness of his apparel. A huge plume of cock’s
+feathers surmounted an elaborately worked head-dress. A crimson robe
+hung about him with a grace worthy an ancient Roman, while over it was
+hung a snow-white goat-skin. The progress to the headquarters of the
+court was conducted with due pomp and circumstance. Every step Stanley’s
+wonderment and admiration increased; each moment he received new proofs
+that he had fallen among a people as different from those whom his
+previous wanderings had made him acquainted with as are white Americans
+from Choctaws. Emerging from the margin of dense forests and banana and
+plantain groves on the lake shores, the singular beauty of the land
+revealed itself to him. Wherever he turned his eyes there was a brilliant
+play of colors, and a boldness and diversity of outline such as he had
+never before seen. Broad, straight, and carefully-kept roads led through
+a rolling, thickly-peopled country clad in perennial green. Now the
+path would dive down into a hollow, where it was shaded by the graceful
+fronds of plantains and other tropical trees, where
+a<!--321.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">314</a></span>
+stream murmured
+over the stones, and the air was filled with the fragrance of fruit; and
+then again it would crest a ridge, from whence a magnificent prospect
+could be obtained of the sea-like expanse of the lake, with its wooded
+capes and islands, the dim blue lines of the distant hills, and the
+fruitful and smiling country lying between, its soft, undulating outline
+of forest-covered valley and grassy hill sharply broken by gigantic
+table-topped masses of gray rocks and profound ravines.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_313.jpg" width="600" height="344"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">RUBAGA.</span>
+<a href="images/i_313x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>At length crowning the summit of a smooth hill appeared King Mtesa’s
+capital, Rubaga. A number of tall huts clustered around one taller than
+the rest from which waved the imperial standard of the Uganda. A high
+cane fence surrounds the court with gates opening on four broad avenues
+that stretch to the bottom of the hill. These are lined with fences and
+connected with paths shaded with groves of banana, fig and other fruit
+trees, and amid these groves are the houses of the commonalty. After due
+delay&mdash;court etiquette is even more tedious and ceremonious in Africa
+than Europe&mdash;Stanley is ushered into the presence of the king, seated in
+his great audience hall, and surrounded by a host of chiefs, warriors,
+pages, standard-bearers, executioners, drummers, fifers, clowns, dwarfs,
+wizards, medicine men, slaves and other retainers.</p>
+
+<p>And here we have a fine opportunity to compare the notes of two
+observers of the king’s receptions. Stanley had a second interview at
+the “royal palace,” on which occasion the king received also M. Linant
+De Bellefonds, sent by Gordon Pasha on a mission to Uganda. The monarch
+prepared a surprise for him by having Stanley by his side. But let De
+Bellefonds speak.</p>
+
+<p>“On entering the court I am greeted with a frightful uproar. A thousand
+instruments produce the most discordant and deafening sounds. Mtesa’s
+bodyguard, carrying guns, present arms on my appearance. The king is
+standing at the entrance to the reception hall. I approach and bow like
+a Turk. We shake hands. I perceive a sun-burned European by the king’s
+side, whom I take to be Cameron. We all enter the reception room&mdash;a room
+15 feet wide by 60 feet long, its roof supported
+by<!--322.png--><span class="pagenum">315</span>
+two rows of light
+pillars, making an aisle, which is filled with chief officers and guards,
+the latter armed. Mtesa takes his seat on the throne, which is like a
+wooden office chair. His feet rest on a cushion. The whole is in the
+centre of a leopard skin spread upon a Smyrna rug. Before him is a highly
+polished elephant’s tusk, at his feet two boxes containing fetishes, on
+either side a lance of copper and steel. At his feet are two scribes.
+The king behaves dignifiedly and does not lack an air of distinction.
+His dress is faultless&mdash;a white <i>couftan</i> finished with a red band,
+stockings, slippers, vest of black and gold, a turban with a silver plate
+on top, a sword with an ivory hilt and a staff. I show my presents, but
+royal dignity forbids him to show any curiosity. I say to the traveller
+on his left ‘Have I the honor to address Mr. Cameron?’ He says, ‘No sir;
+Mr. Stanley.’ I introduce myself. We bow low, and our conversation ends
+for the moment.”</p>
+
+<p>Who is this singular Mtesa and how has his more singular fabric of empire
+been built up in the heart of savage Africa?</p>
+
+<p>All around is the night of Pagan darkness, ignorance, and cruelty. Here,
+in the land of the Waganda, if there is, as yet, no light to speak of,
+there is a ruddy tinge in the midst of the blackness that seems to give
+promise of approaching dawn. If the people are still blood-thirsty,
+revengeful, and fond of war and pillage, they have learned some lessons
+in observing law and order; they practice some useful arts; they observe
+many of the decencies of life, and in the cleanliness of their houses
+and persons they are examples to some European countries. The Waganda
+themselves have a high opinion of their own importance; and their legends
+carry back their origin to what, for an African tribe, is a remote past.
+The story, as related by them to Captain Speke, is as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>“Eight generations ago a sportsman from Unyoro, by name Uganda, came with
+a pack of dogs, a woman, a spear, and a shield, hunting on the left bank
+of the Katonga Valley, not far from the lake. He was but a poor man,
+though so successful in hunting that vast numbers flocked to him for
+flesh, and became so fond of him as to invite him to be their king.
+At<!--323.png--><span class="pagenum">316</span>
+first Uganda hesitated. Then the people, hearing his name, said, ‘well
+at any rate let the country between the Nile and the Katonga be called
+Uganda and let your name be Kimera the first king of Uganda.’ The report
+of these proceedings reached the ears of the king of Unyoro, who merely
+said, ‘The poor creature must be starving, allow him to feed where he
+likes.’</p>
+
+<p>“Kimera assumed authority, grew proud and headstrong, punished severely
+and became magnificent. He was content with nothing short of the grandest
+palace, a throne to sit on, the largest harem, the smartest officers, the
+best dressed people, a menagerie for pleasure and the best of everything.
+Armies were formed and fleets of canoes built for war. Highways were
+cut from one end of the country to the other and all the rivers were
+bridged. No house could be built without its necessary out buildings and
+to disobey the laws of cleanliness was death. He formed a perfect system
+of paternal government according to his own ideas, and it has never
+declined, but rather improved.”</p>
+
+<p>Stanley heard from Sabadu, the court historian of Uganda, a somewhat
+different story. According to him Kimera did not found the government
+but was only one of a long list of thirty-five monarchs. He however
+first taught his countrymen the delight of sport. He was, in fact, the
+Nimrod of Uganda genealogy, and a mighty giant to boot, the mark of
+whose enormous foot is still pointed out on a rock near the lake, where
+he had slipped while hurling a spear at an elephant. The first of the
+Waganda was Kintu, a blameless priest, who objected to the shedding of
+blood&mdash;a scruple which does not seem to have been shared by any of his
+descendants&mdash;and who came into this Lake Region when it was absolutely
+empty of human inhabitants. From Kintu, Sabadu traced the descent of his
+master through a line of glorious ancestry,&mdash;warriors and legislators,
+who performed the most astounding deeds of valor and wisdom,&mdash;and
+completely proved that, whatever may be the condition of history,
+fiction, at least, flourishes at the court of Mtesa. Passing over a hero
+who crushed hosts of his enemies by flying up into the air and dropping
+great rocks upon their heads, and a doughty champion who took his stand
+on a
+hill<!--324.png--><span class="pagenum">317</span>
+and there for three days withstood the assaults of all comers,
+catching the spears thrown at him and flinging them back, until he was
+surrounded by a wall of two thousand slain, we come to Suna, the father
+of Mtesa, who died only a little before Speke and Grant’s visit to the
+country. Suna, by all accounts, was a gloomy monarch, who sat with his
+eyes broodingly bent on the ground, only raising them to give the signal
+to his executioners for the slaughter of some of his subjects. It is told
+of this sanguinary despot that one day he caused 800 of his people to be
+killed in his sight, and that he made a ghastly pyramid of the bodies
+of 20,000 Wasoga prisoners, inhabitants of the opposite shore of the
+Victoria Nile.</p>
+
+<p>The chiefs rejected his eldest son as his successor and chose the
+mild-eyed Mtesa. The “mild-eyed” signalized his election by killing all
+his nearest relatives and his father’s best counsellors. He was drunk
+with power and <i>pombe</i>. It was now that Speke and Grant saw him. They
+describe him as a wretch who was peculiarly liable to fits of frenzy,
+during which he would order the slaughter of those who were his best
+friends an hour before, or arming himself with a bundle of spears would
+go into his harem and throw them indiscriminately among his wives and
+children.</p>
+
+<p>It is said a change came over him by being converted to Mohammedanism.
+He gave up his drinking and many Pagan practices of his fathers, though
+still believing in wizards and charms. The Moslem Sabbath is observed and
+Arabic literature has been introduced.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley describes him as a tall slim man of thirty years, with fine
+intelligent features and an expression in which amiability is blended
+with dignity. His eyes are “large lustrous and lambent.” His skin is
+a reddish brown and wonderfully smooth. In council, he is sedate and
+composed; in private, free and hilarious. Of his intelligence and
+capacity there can be no question. Nor can it be doubted that he has a
+sincere liking for white men. His curiosity about civilized peoples,
+their customs, manufactures and inventions is insatiable, and he seems to
+have once entertained the idea of modeling his kingdom after a civilized
+pattern.<!--325.png--><span class="pagenum">318</span>
+He showed “Stamlee” (Stanley) and other white visitors the
+greatest hospitality. Yet there was something cat-like in his caressing
+and insinuating ways. His smiles and attentions could not be relied on
+any more than the fawning of the leopard, which the kings of Uganda take
+for their royal badge.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley tried to convert him from his Moslem faith to Christianity. He
+got so far as to have him write the Ten Commandments for daily perusal
+and keep the Christian along with the Moslem Sabbath. This was on his
+first visit. But on his return to Rubaga he found the king had gone to
+war with the Wavuma. He went along and had excellent opportunity to
+notice the king’s power.</p>
+
+<p>His estimate of Mtesa’s fighting strength on this occasion was an army of
+150,000 men, and as many more camp followers in the shape of women and
+children. There were not less than 500 large canoes, over seventy feet in
+length, requiring 8500 paddlers. The whole population of his territory he
+estimated at 3,500,000, and its extent at 70,000 square miles.</p>
+
+<p>The Wavuma could not muster over 200 canoes, but they were more agile on
+the water than the Uganda, so that the odds were not so great after all.
+Day after day they kept Mtesa’s fleet at bay, and readily paddled out
+of reach of his musketry and howitzers planted on a cape which extended
+into the lake. Mtesa got very mad and began to despair. He applied to
+all his sorcerers and medicine men, and at length came to Stanley, who
+suggested the erection of a causeway from the point of the cape to the
+enemy’s shore. It proved to be too big a task, and was given over. But
+the American pushed his project of converting the king, now that he
+stood in the position of adviser. He succeeded, as he thought. But a few
+days later the Uganda fleet suffered a reverse, and the newly fledged
+Christian was found running around in a frenzy, shouting for the blood
+of his enemies and giving orders for the roasting alive of a prisoner
+who had been taken. Stanley gave his pupil a well-deserved scolding; and
+thinking it was time to interfere in the war, which was hindering him
+from continuing his journey, he put into operation a little project he
+had conceived, and which
+is<!--326.png--><span class="pagenum">319</span>
+worthy of being placed beside the famous
+device of the “horse” by which the Greeks captured Troy town. Joining
+three canoes together, side by side, by poles lashed across them, he
+constructed on this platform a kind of wicker-work fort, which concealed
+a crew and garrison of two hundred men. This strange structure, covered
+by streamers, and with the drums and horns giving forth a horrible din,
+moved slowly towards the enemy’s stronghold, propelled by the paddles
+working between the canoes. The Wavuma watched with terror the approach
+of this awful apparition, which bore down upon them as if moved by some
+supernatural force. When it had advanced to within hailing distance, a
+voice was heard issuing from the mysterious visitant, which called on the
+Wavuma to submit to Mtesa or destruction would come on them. The bold
+islanders were awestruck. A council of war was held, when a chief stepped
+to the shore and cried, “Return, O Spirit; the war is ended!” A peace was
+sealed with the usual tribute of ivory and female slaves for the king’s
+harem.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning the king’s war drums suddenly sounded the breaking up
+of his immense encampment on the shore, and Stanley discovered it to be
+on fire in a hundred places. All had to flee for their lives, and he
+thinks hundreds must have perished in the confusion. The king denied
+that he was responsible for an order which resulted in such a horror,
+but Stanley thought he was guilty of a piece of unwarranted cruelty,
+which illy became his new profession of faith. From that time on, his
+views began to change. Ingenious, enterprising, intelligent he found
+them, above any other African tribe he had met with. Their scrupulous
+cleanliness, neatness, and modesty cover a multitude of faults; but for
+the rest, “they are crafty, fraudful, deceiving, lying, thievish knaves,
+taken as a whole, and seem to be born with an uncontrollable love of
+gaining wealth by robbery, violence and murder.” Notwithstanding first
+impressions to the contrary, they are more allied to the Choctaw than
+the Anglo-Saxon, and are simply clever savages, whom prosperity and a
+favorable climate have helped several stages on the long, toilsome road
+towards civilization. There is no call upon us
+after<!--327.png--><span class="pagenum">320</span>
+all to envy their
+luxurious lives of ease and plenty under the shade of their bowers of
+vine, fig, and plantain trees&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>“For we hold the gray Barbarian lower than the Christian child.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Nevertheless, Uganda, from its fertility and its situation at the outlet
+of the great fresh-water sea of the Nyanza, must be regarded as one of
+the most hopeful fields of future commercial enterprise, and its people
+as among the most promising subjects for missionary and philanthropic
+efforts in Central Africa.</p>
+
+<p>As for the mighty Mtesa, little has been seen or heard of him since his
+friend “Stamlee” parted from him. Colonel Chaille Long, late of the
+Confederate Army, afterwards in the service of Egypt, who had seen him a
+few months before, did not think he would ever turn out to be a humane
+monarch. But that he has not lost his interest in his white friends
+and in the marvels of civilization was shown in the spring of 1880,
+when a deputation of four of his chiefs appeared in London on a tour of
+observation.</p>
+
+<p>De Bellefonds, mentioned above as meeting Stanley at King Mtesa’s court,
+was murdered, with all his party, by the Unyoro, when on his way back to
+Gondokoro. Colonel Long went down the Victoria Nile from Lake Victoria
+Nyanza, and midway between the Victoria and Albert Nyanza discovered
+another great lake which he called Lake Ibrahim.</p>
+
+<p>The last white visitors to the Nile reservoirs were an English party
+sent out to establish a Christian mission on Lake Victoria Nyanza. It
+consisted of Lieutenant Smith, and Messrs. Wilson and O’Neil. They took a
+small steamer along in sections from Zanzibar, and successfully floated
+the first steam craft on the bosom of the great lake. Wilson established
+himself at the court of King Mtesa. Smith and Wilson, while exploring the
+lake, were driven by a storm on the island of the Ukerewe, whose chief,
+Lukongeh, had been kind to Stanley. But no faith can be put in African
+princes. On December 7, 1877, Lukongeh attacked the missionary camp and
+massacred Smith and Wilson with all their black attendants. With this
+dismal<!--328.png--><span class="pagenum">321</span>
+incident the history of the exploration of Victoria Nyanza closes
+for the present, except as we shall have to follow Stanley after leaving
+the court of King Mtesa on his trip down the western shore of the lake.
+It must be remembered that he was twice to see the king, once on his tour
+of circumnavigation, and then after he had completed it.</p>
+
+<p>After he rounded the northern end of the lake and was well on his way
+down its western shores, he met with the most perilous of his adventures.
+The voyagers were nearly out of provisions. They had passed days of
+weary toil under the blistering tropical sun, and dismal nights of
+hunger on shelterless, uninhabited islands, when the grassy slopes of
+Bumbireh hove in sight. Numerous villages were seen in the shelter of the
+forest, with herds of cattle, maize fields, and groves of fruit trees,
+and altogether the island seemed to offer a haven of rest and plenty to
+the weary mariners. There was no food left in the boat, and a landing
+had to be attempted at all risks. The look of the Bumbireh natives was
+not so prepossessing as that of their land. They rushed down from their
+villages, shouting war-songs and brandishing their clubs and spears. No
+sooner had the boat reached shallow water, than they seized upon her, and
+dragged her, crew and all, high up on the rocky beach. “The scene that
+ensued,” says the traveller, “baffles description. Pandemonium&mdash;all the
+devils armed&mdash;raged around us. A forest of spears was levelled; thirty
+or forty bows were drawn taut; as many barbed arrows seemed already on
+the wing; knotty clubs waved above our heads; two hundred screaming black
+demons jostled each other, and struggled for room to vent their fury, or
+for an opportunity to deliver one crushing blow or thrust at us.”</p>
+
+<p>In point of fact, no thrust was delivered, and possibly none was
+intended; but the situation was certainly an unpleasant one. The troop of
+gesticulating, yelling savages increased every second; and the diabolical
+noise of a number of drums increased the hub-bub. The islanders began to
+jostle their guests, to pilfer, and at last they seized upon the oars.
+Stanley put his companions on their guard and fired his double-barreled
+elephant<!--329.png--><span class="pagenum">322</span>
+rifle into the crowd. Two men fell. He increased the panic
+among them, by two rounds of duck shot, and in the midst of the confusion
+the “Lady Alice” was run down the bank and pushed far into the water. But
+this scarcely improved the position. The enemy swarmed on the shore and
+threw stones and lances at the crew. Canoes were making ready to pursue.
+Stanley ordered the crew to tear up the bottom boards for paddles and to
+pull away with all their might. All were doing the best they could, but
+a paralysis seized them when they discovered they were directly in the
+track of two huge hippopotami which had been started up by the noises of
+the melee, and enraged to the attacking point. The elephant rifle was
+again brought into requisition and the course cleared by planting an
+explosive bullet in each animal’s head.</p>
+
+<p>Four of the canoes of the natives were now upon them. They meant war
+in earnest. The elephant rifle was used with effect. Four shots killed
+five of the natives and sank two canoes. The other two stopped to pick
+up their companions. They shouted in their rage, as they saw their prize
+escape, “go, and die in the Nyanza!”</p>
+
+<p>Dismal days of famine and hardship followed. A storm overtook them
+and tossed them for hours, drenched with spray and rain. They had but
+four bananas on board. Happily another island was sighted and reached,
+which proved to be uninhabited. There they obtained food, shelter and
+much needed rest. Most travellers would have given Bumbireh a wide
+berth in the future. Not so Stanley. He pursued his course to Kagehyi,
+his starting point, having circumnavigated the lake in 60 days. There
+he assembled his own forces, and added recruits loaned by King Mtesa.
+With 230 spearmen and 50 musketeers he put back to the offending island
+determined to punish the two or three thousand natives they found ranged
+along the shores. They held their own with slings and arrows against the
+approach of the boats for an hour. But at length they were put to flight
+and Stanley considered he had wiped out the insult, though they appear to
+have been pretty well punished before.</p>
+
+<p><!--330.png--><span class="pagenum">323</span></p>
+
+<p>During his two months’ absence Frederick Barker died at Kagehyi. This
+sad event was one of the items of heavy cost attending great feats of
+exploration. It left Stanley with but one English companion.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley’s exploration of Victoria Nyanza confirmed in part, Speke’s
+discovery and theories. It showed that it was a Nile reservoir, though
+not an ultimate source, 21,000 square miles in extent. Excellent havens,
+navigable streams and fertile islands were revealed for the first time.
+Rich and beautiful countries are romantically pictured to us.</p>
+
+<p>After having paid court to King Mtesa a second time, as already
+described, the time came for Stanley to extend his journey. He chose
+to follow the line of the Equator westward with the hope of striking a
+southern extension of Baker’s Albert Nyanza. He departed from Mtesa’s
+old capital, Ulagalla, laden with presents and food, and accompanied
+by a hundred Uganda warriors. Stanley, in turn, gave bountiful parting
+presents, and even remembered the chief Lukongeh of Ukerew&euml;, who showed
+his appreciation of this kindness by murdering the very next white
+visitors&mdash;Smith and O’Neill, as above narrated.</p>
+
+<p>Further on, near the boundary between Uganda and Unyoro, a body of
+2000 Waganda spearmen joined Stanley, making a force of nearly 3000
+souls&mdash;quite too large for practical exploration as the sequel proved.
+The path led through scenes of surpassing beauty and fertility, and
+of a character that changed from soft tropical luxuriance to Alpine
+magnificence.</p>
+
+<p>After getting away from the forest covered lowlands of the lake shore,
+they emerge into a rolling country dotted with ant hills and thinly
+sprinkled with tamarisks and thorny acacias. Then come rougher ways and
+wilder scenes. The land-swells are higher, the valleys deeper. Rocks
+break through the surface, and the slopes are covered with splintered
+granite. The streams that were warm and sluggish, are now cold and rapid.
+By and by mountains set in, at first detached masses and then clearly
+defined ranges, rising 9000 to 10,000 feet on the right hand and the
+left. Cutting breezes and chilly mists take the place of intense tropical
+heats. At length the monarch of mountains
+in<!--331.png--><span class="pagenum">324</span>
+this part of Africa comes
+into view and is named Mount Gordon Bennett. It lifts its head, at a
+distance of 40 miles north of their route, to a height of 15,000 feet,
+and seems to be a detached mass which overlooks the entire country.
+Its bases are inhabited by the Gambaragara, who have regular features,
+light complexions, and are the finest natives Mr. Stanley saw in Africa.
+Sight of them brought up the old question, whether an indigenous white
+race exists in Africa, as both Pinto and Livingstone seemed inclined to
+believe. But their wooly, or curly, hair was against them. They are a
+pastoral people and safe in their mountain fastnesses against attack.
+Snow often covered the top of their high mountain, which they said was
+an extinct crater and now the bed of a beautiful lake from whose centre
+rises a lofty column of rocks. The whole country is filled with hot
+springs, lakes of bubbling mud and other evidences of volcanic action.</p>
+
+<p>These mountains Stanley thought to be the dividing ridge between Victoria
+Nyanza, 120 miles east, and the southern projection of Albert Nyanza.
+But what was his astonishment to find that he had no sooner rose to the
+summit of his dividing ridge than he stood on a precipice, 1500 feet
+high, which overlooked the placid waters of the traditional Muta, or
+Luta, Nzig&eacute;. What a prize was here in store for the venturesome American!
+Something indeed which would rob Baker of his claim to the discovery of
+an ultimate Nile source in Albert Nyanza. Something which would set at
+rest many geographic controversies. And, strange to say, something which
+not only supported the truth of native accounts but seemed to verify the
+accuracy of an old Portuguese map dating back nearly 300 years.</p>
+
+<p>But fortune was not in favor of the American. His large force had scared
+the Unyoro people, and they had mysteriously disappeared. The Waganda
+warriors, who formed his escort, looked ominously on this situation.
+Samboozi, the leader of the escort, had gained his laurels fighting the
+Unyoro, and he feared a trap of some kind was being laid for him. His
+fears demoralized his own men and Stanley’s as well. They decided to
+retreat. Stanley remonstrated, and asked them to remain till he
+could<!--332.png--><span class="pagenum">325</span>
+lower his boat and explore the lake. He asked for but two days grace.
+But expostulation was vain. They would all have deserted in a body.</p>
+
+<p>There was nothing left but to return. When they arrived at Mtesa’s
+capital, which they did without accident, the king was frightfully mad
+at his men. He ordered the faithless Samboozi to be imprisoned and all
+his wives and flocks to be confiscated. Then he offered Stanley his great
+general Sekebobo with an army of a hundred thousand men to carry him back
+to the Muta Nzig&eacute;. Stanley declined his munificent offer, and determined
+that in the future none should guide and govern his own force except
+himself. So, with very much modified impressions of Uganda faithfulness,
+and somewhat angrily, he started off in a southerly direction, intending
+to see what lay westward of Victoria Nyanza.</p>
+
+<p>This route of Stanley southward was that of Speke and Grant northward,
+fourteen years before. It is a well watered, thickly peopled, highly
+cultivated country, diversified by hill and hollow, and rich in cattle.
+Its water courses all drain into the Victoria Nyanza. Their heads are
+rushing streams, but as they approach the lake they become reedy,
+stagnant lakelets hard to cross. The largest of these, at the southwest
+corner of Victoria Nyanza, is Speke’s Kitangule, which Stanley named the
+Alexandra Nile. Will we never have done with these Nile rivers? These
+continuations of the great river of Egypt?</p>
+
+<p>It seems then that Victoria Nyanza is but a resting place for more
+southern Nile waters. That this is so, seems clear from the fact that the
+Alexandra Nile really contributes more water than flows out of the lake
+at its northern outlet. It has been discovered also that Albert Nyanza
+sends off another affluent to the north, besides that which flows past
+Gondokoro and which has been regarded as the true Nile. Further it seems
+that Lake Ibrahim, half way between Victoria and Albert Nyanza, on the
+Victoria Nile, dispatches an unknown branch into the wilderness. Whether
+these branches find their way back to the parent stream or go off to form
+new lakes, no one can exactly say.</p>
+
+<p><!--333.png--><span class="pagenum">326</span></p>
+
+<p>But in the Alexandra Nile Stanley claims he has discovered a new
+ramification of this wonderful river system leading to other lakes and
+lake mysteries. The natives call the Alexandra the “Mother of the waters
+of Uganda,” that is, the Victoria Nyanza or Victoria Nile. Be this as it
+may, the Alexandra Nile is interesting both for its own sake and that of
+the people who live upon it. Stanley struck it far up from the lake where
+it was a quarter of a mile wide, with a dark central current 100 yards
+wide and fifty feet deep, which below became a rush covered stream whose
+banks were crowded with villages and herds of cattle. Still further on,
+it narrows between rocks over which it rushes in a cataract, and then it
+broadens to lake proportions, being from four to fifteen miles wide. In
+this expanse of reedy lagoons and green islands it merges into Victoria
+Nyanza Lake.</p>
+
+<p>Crossing the Alexandra Nile to the south, we are in the Karagwe country,
+ruled by King Rumanika. Here is a haven of peace and rest. Speke and
+Grant staid many weeks with Rumanika. Stanley stopped for a considerable
+while to rest and recruit. He is gentle and reasonable, hospitable and
+friendly. He is a vassal of King Mtesa of Uganda, but the two are wholly
+different, except in their admiration of white men. Rumanika has no
+bursts of temper, but is serene, soft of voice and placid in manner.
+Stanley calls him a “venerable and aged Pagan,” a tall man, six feet six
+inches high, gorgeously dressed, attended by a multitude of spearmen,
+drummers and fifers, bearing a cane seven feet long. He has a museum in
+which he delights, and is an insatiable gatherer of news from those who
+come from civilized countries. He is not to be outdone by the stories of
+strangers, but has always one in response ever fuller of marvel. When
+Stanley told him of the results of steam power and of the telegraph by
+which people could talk for thousands of miles, he slily asked “Whether
+or not the moon made different faces to laugh at us mortals on earth?”</p>
+
+<p>He proved full of traditions and, if there was any foundation for
+them, Stanley left with a rare fund of geographic knowledge on hand.
+The mountain sixty miles northward, rising in triple cone and called
+M’Fumbiro, he said was in the country of
+the<!--334.png--><span class="pagenum">327</span>
+Ruanda, a powerful state
+governed by an empress, who allows no stranger to enter. Her dominions
+stretch from the Muta Nzig&eacute; to Tanganyika. They contain another great
+lake, forty by thirty miles, out of which the Alexandra Nile flows. It is
+possible to ascend this channel into another sheet of water&mdash;Lake Kivu,
+out of which at its southern end flows another stream, the Rusizi, which
+flows into the north end of Tanganyika.</p>
+
+<p>What wonderful information this was, and if all true, we should have
+the most bewildering river system, by all odds in the world. We should
+find the old Portuguese map of three hundred years ago reproduced and
+verified, and the anomaly of three mighty streams draining a continent
+mingling their parent waters, and even permitting the passage of a boat
+at high water, so that in the end it might go to the Mediterranean, the
+Atlantic or Indian Oceans.</p>
+
+<p>Further, Rumanika stated that Ruanda is peopled by demons, and that
+beyond, on a lake called Mkinyaga, are a race of cannibals, and also
+pigmies, not two feet high. Stanley verified the king’s story by a visit
+to the Ruanda folks, who gnashed their teeth like dogs and otherwise
+expressed their objections to his visit; and Dr. Schweinfurth found, a
+little nearer the western coast, evidences of a tribe of dwarfs who are
+supposed to be the aboriginal people of the continent. But the hardest of
+Rumanika’s stories was of a tribe who had ears so long that one answered
+for a blanket to lie on and another as a cover for the sleeper. Stanley
+began to think his civilized wonders were too tame to pit against those
+of the African king.</p>
+
+<p>The larger African animals abound in the Karagwe country. Stanley was
+much interested in the accounts of white elephants and rhinoceri. He had
+the good fortune to find one of the former animals, which he shot, but
+found it only a dirty grey brute, just as we find the advertised white
+elephants of the menagerie. The elephant is the most unpleasant neighbor
+of the rhinoceros. If they meet in a jungle the rhinoceros has to squeeze
+his ponderous body into the thicket or prepare for a battle royal. In
+such a quarrel his tusk is an ugly weapon but no match for the tusks of
+the elephant. The elephant sometimes
+treats<!--335.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">328</a></span>
+him like a school boy and,
+breaking off a limb, belabors the unlucky rhinoceros till he beats a
+retreat. At other times the elephant will force him against a tree and
+pin him there with his tusks, or throw him down and tramp him till the
+life is out of him. Perhaps these were more of Rumanika’s yarns, but
+certain it is both beasts are formidable in a forest path, especially
+when alone and of surly temper.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_328.jpg" width="600" height="485"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SHOOTING A RHINOCEROS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the southern borders of Karagwe is a ridge 5000 feet high. Beyond this
+the waters trend southward and toward Tanganyika. And beyond this ridge
+the people change. There are no more stately kings, but petty, lying,
+black-mailing chiefs, just as we found about Gondokoro. Here Stanley
+encountered Mirambo, whose name is a word of terror from the Victoria
+Lake to the Nyassa, and from Tanganyika to
+Zanzibar.<!--336.png--><span class="pagenum">329</span>
+To the explorer’s
+astonishment he found this notorious personage&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">“The mildest-mannered man<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That ever cut a throat”&mdash;<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>in short “a thorough African gentleman.”</p>
+
+<p>He had difficulty in believing that this “unpresuming, mild-eyed man, of
+inoffensive exterior, so calm of gesture, so generous and open-handed,”
+was the terrible man of blood who wasted villages, slaughtered his foes
+by the thousand, and kept a district of ninety thousand square miles in
+continual terror. Incontinently, the impulsive explorer resolved to swear
+“blood brother-hood” with the other wandering warrior, and the ceremony
+was gone through with all due solemnity. The marauding chief presented
+his new brother with a quantity of cloth, and the explorer gave him
+in return a revolver and a quantity of ammunition; and then, mutually
+pleased with each other, they parted&mdash;Mirambo and his merry men to the
+gay greenwood, where, doubtless, they had a pressing engagement to meet
+some other party of travellers, and Stanley for Ujiji.</p>
+
+<p>Ujiji is on Lake Tanganyika. Here we have to leave Stanley, for he is
+now done with the sources of the Nile, and midway on that wonderful
+journey which revealed the secrets of the Congo. We will follow him
+thence and see what he discovered and how he lifted the fog amid which
+Livingstone died, but that will have to be under the head of the “Congo
+Country” whose mystery he solved more clearly even than that of the “Nile
+Reservoirs.”</p>
+
+<p><!--337.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">330</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 377px;">
+<img src="images/i_330.jpg" width="377" height="450"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PORTRAIT OF LIVINGSTONE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><!--338.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">331</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>
+THE ZAMBESI.
+</h2>
+
+<p>The great river Zambesi runs eastward across Southern Africa and empties,
+by many mouths, into the Indian Ocean. It is an immense water system,
+with its head far toward the Atlantic Ocean, yet draining on its north
+side that mysterious lake region which occupies Central Africa, and on
+its south side an almost equally mysterious region.</p>
+
+<p>Its lower waters have been known for a long time, but its middle waters
+and its sources have been shrouded in a cloud of doubts as dense as that
+which overhung the reservoirs of the Nile. Livingstone has contributed
+more than any other explorer to the lifting of these doubts.</p>
+
+<p>He was born in Glasgow, March 19, 1813, and was self-educated. He studied
+medicine and became attached to the London Missionary Society as medical
+missionary. In 1840, at the age of twenty-seven years, he was sent to
+Cape Town at the southern terminus of Africa, whence he went 700 miles
+inland to the Kuruman Station, established by Moffat on the southern
+border of the Kalihari desert. Here and at Kolobeng, on the Kolobeng
+River, he acquired the language of the natives, principally Bechuana. On
+a return trip from Kolobeng to Kuruman he came near losing his life by
+an adventure with a lion. The country was being ravaged by a troop of
+these beasts. When one of their number is killed, the rest take the hint
+and leave. It was determined to dispatch one, and a hunt was organized
+in company with the natives. They found the troop on a conical hill. The
+hunters formed a circle around the hill and gradually closed in. Meblawe,
+a native schoolmaster, fired at one of the animals which was sitting on
+a rock. The bullet struck the rock. The angered beast bit the spot where
+the bullet struck and then bounded away. In a few moments Livingstone
+himself got a shot at another beast. The ball took effect but did not
+kill. The enraged beast dashed at his assailant before he could
+re-load,<!--339.png--><span class="pagenum">332</span>
+and sprang upon him. He was borne to the ground beneath the lion’s paws
+and felt his hot breath on his face. Another moment must have brought
+death. But the infuriated beast saw Mebalwe, who had snapped both barrels
+of his rifle at him. He made a dash for him and lacerated his thigh
+in a terrible manner. The natives, who had hitherto acted in a very
+cowardly manner, now came to the rescue with their spears. One of their
+number was pounced upon and badly torn. The beast now began to weaken
+from the effect of Livingstone’s shot, and with a quiver throughout his
+huge frame rolled over on his side dead. After the excitement was over
+Dr. Livingstone
+found<!--340.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">333</a></span>
+eleven marks of the lion’s teeth on his left
+arm, which was broken close to the shoulder and the bone crushed into
+splinters.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 482px;">
+<img src="images/i_332.jpg" width="482" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE LION ATTACKS LIVINGSTONE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Livingstone married Moffat’s daughter in 1844. She had been born in the
+country and was a thorough missionary. He made Kolobeng a beautiful
+station and produced an excellent impression on the natives&mdash;all except
+the Boer tribes to the south and east, who had become much incensed
+against the English, owing as they thought, to the particularly harsh
+treatment they had received down in their former homes south of the Vaal
+River.</p>
+
+<p>At Kolobeng, Livingstone first heard of Lake Ngami, north of the Kalihari
+Desert. He resolved to visit it, and started in May 1849, in company
+with his wife and children, several English travellers and a large party
+of Bechuana attendants. They rather skirted than crossed the desert,
+yet they found it to consist of vast salt plains, which gave a constant
+mirage as if the whole were water. Though destitute of water, there are
+tufts of dry salt-encrusted grass here and there, which relieve it of an
+appearance of barrenness, but which crumble at the touch.</p>
+
+<p>In July they struck the river Cubango, or Zonga, flowing eastward and,
+as far as known, losing itself in a great central salt-lake, or Dead
+Sea. They were told that the Zonga came out of Lake Ngami, further west.
+Ascending the river sixty miles they struck the lake, and were the first
+Europeans to behold this fine sheet of water. The great tribe about and
+beyond the lake is the Makololo, whose chief is Sebituane, a generous
+hearted and truly noble character. They could not see him on this trip.
+So they returned, making easy journeys down the Zonga, admiring its
+beautiful banks, which abounded in large game, especially elephants.</p>
+
+<p>The next year (1850), Livingstone and his family started again for Lake
+Ngami, accompanied by the good chief Sechele, who took along a wagon,
+drawn by oxen. While this means of locomotion gave comfort to the family,
+it involved much labor in clearing roads, and the animals suffered sadly
+from attacks by the tsetse fly, whose sting is poisonous. But the lake
+was reached in safety. The season proved sickly, and a return journey
+became compulsory, without seeing Sebituane. But the
+chief<!--341.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">334</a></span>
+had heard
+of Livingstone’s attempts to visit his court, and he sent presents, and
+invitations to another visit. He set out on a third journey, and this
+time directly across the desert, where they suffered much for want of
+water.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_334.jpg" width="600" height="495"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">CUTTING A ROAD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This time they found the chief. His headquarters were on an island in the
+river, below the lake. He received the party with the greatest courtesy,
+and appeared to be the best mannered and frankest chief Livingstone ever
+met. He was about forty-five years old, tall and wiry, of coffee-and-milk
+complexion, slightly bald, of undoubted bravery, always leading his men
+in battle, and by far the most powerful warrior beyond Cape Colony. He
+had reduced tribe after tribe, till his dominions extended far into the
+desert on the south of the Zonga, embraced both sides of that stream, and
+ran northward to, and beyond, the great Zambesi River.</p>
+
+<p><!--342.png--><span class="pagenum">335</span></p>
+
+<p>Chief Sebituane died while Livingstone was visiting him, and was
+succeeded by his daughter Ma-Mochisane. She extended the privileges of
+the country to the travellers, and Livingstone went north to Sesheke
+to see her. Here in June, 1851, he discovered the great Zambesi in the
+centre of the continent of Africa where it was not previously known to
+exist&mdash;all former maps being incorrect.</p>
+
+<p>Though the country was not healthy, he was so impressed with the beauty
+of the Zambesi regions, and the character of the Makololo people, that he
+resolved to make a permanent establishment among them. But before doing
+so he returned to Cape Colony and sent his family to England. Then he
+went back, visiting his old stations on the way. He arrived at Linyanti,
+where he found that the new queen had abdicated in favor of her brother,
+on May 23, 1853. The new king Sekelutu was not unlike his father in
+stature and color, was kindly disposed toward white people, but could not
+be convinced that their religious notions were suited to him.</p>
+
+<p>Livingstone remained a month at Linyanti, on the Chobe, or Cuando River,
+above its junction with the Zambezi. He then started on a further
+exploration of the latter river, and was gratified to find that Sekelutu
+determined to accompany him with 160 attendants. They made royal progress
+down the Chobe to its mouth. Then they began to ascend the Zambesi in
+thirty-three canoes. The river was more than a mile broad, dotted with
+large islands and broken with frequent rapids and falls. The banks were
+thickly strewn with villages. Elephants were numerous. It was the new
+king’s first visit to his people and everywhere the receptions were
+grand. Throughout this Barotse valley hunger is not known, yet there is
+no care exercised in planting.</p>
+
+<p>The spirit of exploration had such full possession of Livingstone
+that, on the return of the royal party to Linyanti, he organized an
+expedition to ascend the Zambesi and cut across to Loanda on the Atlantic
+coast. This he did in 1854. It was on this journey that he discovered
+Lake Dilolo. It is not much of a lake, being only eight miles long by
+three broad. But
+it<!--343.png--><span class="pagenum">336</span>
+was a puzzle to Livingstone, and has ever since
+been a curiosity. It is the connecting link between two immense water
+systems&mdash;that of the Congo and Zambesi.</p>
+
+<p>When he struck it on his westward journey toward Loanda, he found it
+sending out a volume into the Zambesi. “Head-waters of a great river!”
+he naturally exclaimed. And there was the elevation above the sea, the
+watershed, to prove it, for soon after all the waters ran northward and
+westward instead of eastward and southward.</p>
+
+<p>But in a few months he was making his return journey from Loanda to the
+interior, to fulfil his pledge to bring back his Makololo attendants
+in safety. He then approached this lake from the north. What was his
+surprise to find another slow moving, reed-covered stream a mile wide,
+flowing from this end of the mysterious lake and sending its waters
+toward the Congo.</p>
+
+<p>Though ill with fever both times, he was able to conquer disease
+sufficiently to satisfy himself that this little lake, Dilolo, four
+thousand feet above the sea level, is located exactly on the watershed
+between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, and distributes its contents
+impartially between the two seas. A drop of rain blown by the wind to the
+one or the other end of the lake may re-enforce the tumbling floods that
+roar through the channels of the Congo and rush sixty miles out into the
+salt waters of the Atlantic, or may make with the Zambesi the dizzy leap
+through the great Victoria Falls and mingle with the Indian ocean. No
+similar phenomenon is known anywhere. Lake Kivo may form a corresponding
+band of union between the Congo and the Nile, but this we do not know.
+Apart from the eccentric double part it plays, the physical features
+of Dilolo are tame and ordinary enough. It has, of course, hippopotami
+and crocodiles as every water in Central Africa has, and its banks
+are fringed with marshes covered with profuse growth of rushes, cane,
+papyrus, and reeds. Around it stretch wide plains, limitless as the sea,
+on which for many months of the year the stagnant waters rest, balancing
+themselves, as it were, between the two sides of a continent, unable to
+make up their mind whether to favor the east coast or the west with their
+tribute.</p>
+
+<p><!--344.png--><span class="pagenum">337</span></p>
+
+<p>No trees break the horizon. The lands in the fens bear only a low growth
+of shrub, and the landscape is dismal and monotonous in the extreme.
+“Dilolo means despair,” and the dwellers near it tell a story curiously
+resembling the tale of the “Cities of the plain,” and the tradition
+handed down regarding some of the lakes in Central Asia, of how a
+venerable wanderer came to this spot near evening and begged for the
+charity of shelter and food, how the churlish inhabitants mocked his
+petition, with the exception of one poor man who gave the stranger a nook
+by his fire and the best his hut afforded, and how after a terrible night
+of tempest and lightning the hospitable villager found his guest gone and
+the site of his neighbor’s dwellings occupied by a lake. When the rains
+have ceased and the hot sun has dried up the moisture the outlook is
+more cheerful. A bright golden band of flowers of every shade of yellow
+stretches across the path, then succeeds a stripe of blue, varying from
+the lightest tint to purple, and so band follows band with the regularity
+of the stripes on a zebra.</p>
+
+<p>The explorer is glad, however, to escape these splendid watersheds and
+to pass down into the shadows of the forests of the Zambesi, where, at
+least, there will be a change of discomforts, and a variety of scenery.
+There are four methods of travel familiar in Southern Africa. One is the
+bullock-wagon, convenient and pleasant enough in the Southern Plains,
+but hardly practicable in the rude wilderness adjoining the Zambesi.
+Riding on bullock back is a mode of travel which Livingstone frequently
+adopted from sheer inability to walk from weakness. Marching on foot is,
+of course, the best of all plans when a thorough and minute acquaintance
+with the district traversed is desired. But for ease and rapid progress
+there is nothing like “paddling your own canoe,” or better still, having
+it paddled for you by skilled boatmen down the deep gorges and through
+the rushing shallows of the third of the great African rivers. Before the
+main stream of the Zambesi is reached, the forest shadows of the Lotembwa
+and the Leeba have to be threaded. These dark moss-covered rivers flow
+between dripping banks of overgrown forests and jungle with frequent
+clearings, where
+the<!--345.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">338</a></span>
+villagers raise their crops of manihoc, the plant
+that yields the tapioco of commerce, and which here furnishes the chief
+food of the natives.</p>
+
+<p>Fetisch worship flourishes in these dark and gloomy woods. In their
+depths a fantastically carved demon face, staring from a tree, will
+often startle the intruder, or a grotesque representation of a lion or
+crocodile, or of the human face made of rushes, plastered over with
+clay and with shells or beads for eyes, will be found perched in a seat
+of honor with offerings of food and ornaments laid on the rude altar.
+Whether human sacrifices are offered at these shrines cannot positively
+be said, but the most simple and trifling acts are “tabooed,” and unless
+the traveller is exceedingly wary in all that he does or says, he is
+likely to be met with heavy fines or looked upon as a cursed man, who
+will bring misfortune on all who aid or approach him. The medicine man
+has a terrible power which he often exercises over the lives and property
+of his fellows, and a sentence of witchcraft is often followed by death.
+A great source of profit is weather-making but, unlike the prophets in
+the arid deserts on the south, the magicians of this moist, cool region
+devote their energies to keeping off rain and not to bringing it down
+from Heaven. Of course if they persevere long enough the rain ceases to
+fall, and the credulous natives believe that this has been produced by
+the medicine they have purchased so dearly, just as the Bechuana of the
+desert believe in the ability of their rain-makers, when handsomely paid,
+to bring showers down on the thirsty ground by virtue of drumming and
+dancing.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 524px;">
+<img src="images/i_339.jpg" width="524" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A BANYAN TREE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The behavior of the inhabitants of these villages, on the appearance
+among them of a white man, is apt to shake the notion of the latter that
+the superior good looks of his own race are universally acknowledged.
+Their standard of beauty is quite different from ours. Sometimes a wife
+is measured by the number of pounds she weighs, sometimes by her color,
+often by the peculiarities of ornamentation, or by special style of
+head-dress or some disfigurement of the nose, lips or ears, on which
+the female population mainly rely for making themselves attractive.
+The wearing of clothes is regarded as a practice fairly
+provocative<!--346.png--><span class="pagenum">339</span>
+of laughter, and as improper as the want of them would be in America.
+Nothing could be more hideous to them than the long hair, shaggy beard
+and whiskers, like the mane of a lion, which strangers wear. If the
+stranger have blue eyes and red whiskers he is regarded as a hob-goblin,
+before whom the village girls run away screaming with terror, and the
+children hide trembling behind their mothers. At the village of the
+Shinte, the principal tribe on the Leeba River, Livingstone was very
+kindly treated by the chief. He received him seated in state under
+the shade of a banyan tree, with his hundred wives seated behind him,
+and his band of drummers performing in front.
+Out<!--347.png--><span class="pagenum">340</span>
+of gratitude, the
+Doctor treated the distinguished party to an entertainment with the
+magic-lantern. The subject was the death of Isaac, and the party looked
+on with awe as the gigantic figures with flowing Oriental robes,
+prominent noses, and ruddy complexions appeared upon the curtain. But
+when the Patriarch’s up-lifted arm, with the dagger in hand, was seen
+descending, the ladies, fancying that it was about to be sheathed in
+their bosoms instead of Isaac’s, sprang to their feet with shouts of
+“Mother! Mother!” and rushed helter-skelter, tumbling pell-mell after
+each other into corners or out into the open air, and it was impossible
+to bring them back to witness the Patriarch’s subsequent fortunes.</p>
+
+<p>On the lower part of the Leeba the scenery becomes very beautiful
+and richly diversified. The alternation of hill and dale, open glade
+and forest, past which the canoe bears us swiftly, reminds one of a
+carefully kept park. Animal life becomes more plentiful with every mile
+of southward progress, and the broad meadows bordering the stream are
+pastured by great herds of wild animals&mdash;buffaloes, antelopes, zebras,
+elephants, and rhinoceri,&mdash;all of which may be slaughtered in scores
+before they take alarm.</p>
+
+<p>Below the confluence of the Leeba with the Zambesi, the abundance of game
+on the banks of the river is more remarkable. The air is found darkened
+by the flight of innumerable water fowl, fish-hawks, cranes, and waders
+of many varieties. The earth teems with insect life and the waters swarm
+with fish life. As an instance of the prodigious quantity and exceeding
+tameness of wild animals here, Livingstone mentions that “eighty-one
+buffaloes marched in slow procession before our fire one evening within
+gun shot, and herds of splendid deer sat by day without fear at two
+hundred yards distance, while all through the night the lions were heard
+roaring close to the camp.” In the heat of the day sleek elands, tall as
+ordinary horses, with black glossy bodies and delicately striped skins,
+browsed or reclined in the shade of the forest trees. Troops of graceful,
+agile antelopes, of similar species, scour across the pasture lands to
+seek the cool retreat of some deep dell in the woods, or
+a<!--348.png--><span class="pagenum">341</span>
+solitary
+rhinoceros comes grunting down to the bank in search of some soft place
+where he can roll his horny hide in the mud. The trees themselves have a
+variety and beauty which the sombre evergreen foliage of higher latitudes
+lacks, and which is equally wanting in the dust colored groves of the
+desert further south.</p>
+
+<p>The voyage down the stream is by no means without incident. The river
+swarms with hippopotami and crocodiles. The former lead a lazy sleepy
+life by day in the bottom of the stream, coming now and then to the
+surface to breathe and exchange a snort of recognition with their
+acquaintances, and are only too well pleased to let the passer by go in
+peace, if he will but let them alone. In districts where they are hunted,
+they are wary and take care to push no more than the tip of their snouts
+out of the water, or lie in some bed of rushes where they breathe so
+softly that they cannot be heard. But in a place where they have not been
+disturbed, they can be seen swimming about, and sometimes the female
+hippopotamus can be seen with the little figure of her calf floating on
+her neck. Certain elderly males who are expelled from the herd become
+soured in temper and are dangerous to encounter, and so also is a mother
+if robbed of her young. Such a one made an attack on Livingstone’s boat,
+when descending the Zambesi in 1855, butting it from beneath until the
+fore end stood out of water, and throwing one of the natives into the
+stream. By diving and holding on to the grass at the bottom, while the
+angry beast was looking for him on the surface, he escaped its vengeance
+and, the boat being fortunately close to the shore, the rest of the
+crew got off unharmed. The alligators of this part of the Zambesi are
+peculiarly rapacious and aggressive, and the chances are that anybody
+unlucky enough to fall into the river will find his way into the mouth
+of a watchful crocodile. Every year these ferocious reptiles carry off
+hundreds of human victims, chiefly women, while filling their water
+jars, or men whose canoes are accidently upset, and the inhabitants in
+their turn make a prey of the beast, being extremely fond of its flesh
+and eggs. The crocodile attacks by surprise. He lurks behind the bank of
+rushes, or lies in
+wait<!--350.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">343</a></span>
+at the bottom of a pool, and dashes out as soon
+as he sees a human limb in the water. Sometimes, however, when hungry
+and where favorable opportunity occurs, he will haul his body ashore and
+waddle up the bank on his stumpy legs. If, while disporting himself on
+shore, his wicked green eyes fall on some likely victim in the stream, he
+will dash rapidly through the rushes, plunge into the river and make a
+bound for his prey. The young crocodiles show their vicious temper almost
+as soon as they are out of the shell, and one savage little wretch about
+two feet long made a snap at Dr. Livingstone’s legs, while walking along
+the side of a stream in the Zambesi region, that made the explorer jump
+aside with more agility than dignity.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_342.jpg" width="600" height="359"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ANIMAL LIFE ON THE ZAMBESI.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Some distance below the junction of the Leeba, the Zambesi enters the
+valley of the Barotse. This is one of the most fertile, yet the most
+unhealthy, districts in the interior of Africa. It is stocked with great
+herds of domestic cattle of two varieties. One very tall with enormous
+horns, nearly nine feet between the tips, and the other a beautifully
+formed little white breed. The country could grow grain enough to support
+ten times the inhabitants it has at present. Like the lower valley of
+the Nile, the Barotse country is inundated every year, over its whole
+surface, by the waters of the river, which deposit a layer of fertilizing
+slime. The banks of the Zambesi, for some distance above and below this
+district, are high and cliffy, presenting ridge after ridge of fine rock
+and pleasing scenery, while the stream runs swiftly over its stony bed.
+For a hundred miles through the Barotse valley the stream has a deep and
+winding course and the hills withdraw to a distance of fifteen miles from
+either bank. To the foot of these hills the waters extend in flood time,
+and the valley becomes temporarily one of the lake regions of Central
+Africa.</p>
+
+<p>At the lower end of the valley the rocky spurs again approach each
+other, and the river forces its way through a narrow defile in which, in
+flood time, the water rises to a height of sixty feet above its original
+level. Here are situated the Gonye Falls which are a serious impediment
+to the navigation of the Upper Zambesi. But there is no such danger
+or
+difficulty<!--351.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">344</a></span>
+here for canoes as poor Stanley met with on the Congo.
+Practice has made the natives, living near the falls, experts in the
+work of transporting these canoes over the rocky ground and, as soon as
+a boat approaches the rapids from above or below, it is whisked without
+difficulty by a pair of sturdy arms to the quiet water beyond. Below the
+Gonye Falls, the water bounds and rolls and bounces from bank to bank
+and chafes over the boulders in an alarming manner, their breadth being
+contracted to a few hundred yards. But these swollen rapids might all be
+ascended, Livingstone thinks, when the river is full. After many leagues
+of this mad gamboling, the Zambesi settles down again for a hundred miles
+to sober flow, and opens out into a magnificent navigable river a mile or
+two from bank to bank.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_344.jpg" width="600" height="475"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE GONYE FALLS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Still more grand, however, are its dimensions after it receives a great
+deep, dark colored, slow flowing river, the Cuando,
+or<!--352.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">345</a></span>
+Chobe, before
+mentioned. The Chobe empties through several mouths with winding channels
+fringed with beds of papyrus, the stems of which are plaited and woven
+together into an almost solid mass of vines, and by grass with keen,
+sharp, serrated edges, which cut like razors. Even the hippopotamus has
+no little ado in forcing a way through this forest, and less weighty
+personages have to walk humbly in his track. So wide is the Zambesi below
+the entrance of the Chobe, that even the practiced native eye cannot
+tell from the bank whether the land, dimly seen beyond, is an island or
+opposite shore, and the stream flows placidly past with no sign that it
+is almost within sight of a tremendous downfall.</p>
+
+<p>The only traveller who has explored the upper waters of the Chobe is
+Major Serpa Pinto, on his recent journey from Benguela to Natal. But we
+shall learn more of his travels hereafter. It is, however, interesting
+now to note that he found a spot on this river also, where he could
+almost have placed his cap on the point of junction between streams
+draining toward the Atlantic, the Zambesi, the Indian Ocean, and the
+Kalihari Desert.</p>
+
+<p>Livingstone has already made us familiar with Lake Ngami and the banks
+of the lower Cuando. These are the furthest outposts of equatorial
+moisture toward the south, just as Lake Chad and the White Nile mark its
+northern limits. Once, it is supposed&mdash;and indeed the fact seems beyond
+dispute&mdash;the Zambesi, and all its upper branches, flowed down into this
+southern basin and formed a goodly inland sea, until some great cataclysm
+happened, that diverted it and its waters toward the eastern coast,
+leaving the central lake to be dried up into the shallow Ngami, and the
+streams of this region to wander about haphazard and uncertain whether to
+keep in the old tracks or follow in the new direction.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_346.jpg" width="600" height="367"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">HUNTING THE ELEPHANT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The discovery of the Cuando River by Livingstone in 1849 demolished the
+theory of a burning desert occupying the interior of Africa from the
+Mediterranean to the Cape, and went far to prove, what has since been
+completely established, that the fabulous torrid zone of Africa, and its
+burning sands, is a well
+watered<!--354.png--><span class="pagenum">347</span>
+region, resembling North America in its
+mountains and lakes, and India in its hot humid plains, thick jungles,
+and cool highlands. We have already seen that the South African desert
+is not without vegetation, but its pride and glory are herds of big and
+small game&mdash;antelopes, gnues, zebras, ostriches, elands, gemsbocks,
+gazelles, various species of deer&mdash;that roam over its spacious plains.
+Great deeds of slaughter have been done with the rifle, and told over and
+over again in many a stirring book of African sport by Gunning, Anderson,
+and other Nimrods, who were among the first of the army of hunters who
+now annually go in search of hides, tusks, and horns, which every year
+become more difficult to obtain. The lion is practically the only animal
+of the cat tribe which they have to encounter, the tiger being unknown
+in Africa, and the leopard comparatively rare. The lion seem to be more
+at home in these salt deserts than in the rank forests further north,
+probably because he finds food more plentiful. Livingstone had no great
+opinion of this beast. He describes him as “about the size of a donkey
+and only brave at roaring,” even the talk of his majestic roar he regards
+as “majestic twaddle,” and he says he could never tell the voice of the
+lion from the voice of an ostrich, except from knowing that the quadruped
+made a noise by night and the bird by day. The lion would never dream of
+putting himself against a noble elephant, though he will tear an elephant
+calf if he finds one unprotected, and he would still less engage in a
+contest with the thick skinned rhinoceros. Even a buffalo is more than a
+match for the “King of Beasts.” Major Oswald once came across three lions
+who were having much trouble in pulling a mortally wounded buffalo to the
+ground.</p>
+
+<p>Both the elephant and rhinoceros are hunted here by the natives with
+packs of dogs. The yelping curs completely bewilder their heavy game,
+and while he is paying attention to them and making attempts to kill
+them, the native creeps up and plants his bullet or poisoned spear in a
+vital spot. English sportsmen prefer to go out against the elephant on
+foot or on horseback or, as Anderson, upon the back of a trained ox. In
+former times as many as twenty have been killed on a
+single<!--355.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">348</a></span>
+excursion.
+The chase of the huge animal, which attains a maximum height of twelve
+feet on the Zambesi, becomes really exciting and dangerous work, for the
+African variety, owing to the formation of its skull, cannot be brought
+down by a forehead shot like the Indian variety. The giraffe and ostrich
+are also hunted on horseback, and the plan adopted by hunters is to press
+them at a hard gallop from the first, which causes them to lose their
+wind and sometimes to drop dead from excitement. The ostrich, when at the
+top of his speed, has been known to run at the rate of thirty miles an
+hour, so that there is no hope of overtaking him in a direct chase, but
+the stupid bird often delivers itself into the hands of its pursuers by
+running in curves instead of speeding straight ahead.</p>
+
+<p>The people of the Kalihari Desert are as characteristic of the soil and
+climate as its vegetable life and four-footed beasts. They are of two
+kinds, first Bushmen, who are true sons of the wilderness, wild men
+of the desert, who live by the chase. They are of diminutive stature
+and, like the dwarfs further north, are supposed to represent the real
+aborigines of Africa. The second are remnants of the Bechuana tribes.
+These have been driven into the desert by the pressure of stronger
+peoples behind. They are a people who cling to their original love for
+domestic animals, and watch their flocks of lean goats and meagre cattle
+with great care. On the edges of the desert are the Boers, emigrant Dutch
+farmers, who have fled from British rule in the Transvaal, as their
+fathers fled from Cape Colony and Natal. The coming of these always
+betokens trouble with the natives, and as gold miners and diamond diggers
+are penetrating into the Kalihari Desert, we may expect to see British
+authority close on their heels, and perhaps at no distant day fully
+established on the banks of the Zambesi, unless forsooth, some other
+nations should see fit to interfere.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_349.jpg" width="600" height="377"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">IN THE RAPIDS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In his trip to Loanda, Livingstone had been seeking an outlet to the
+Atlantic for the Makalolo people. On his return, they were dissatisfied
+with his route and preferred an outlet eastward toward the Indian Ocean.
+He therefore resolved to explore a path in this direction for them.
+With all his
+wants<!--357.png--><span class="pagenum">350</span>
+abundantly supplied by the friendly chief Sekelutu,
+he set out for this great journey and after a fortnight’s laborious
+travel reached the Zambesi at the mouth of the Chobe, in November 1855.
+Sailing down the Zambesi, Livingstone saw rising high into the air before
+him, at a distance of six miles, five pillars of vapor with dark smoky
+summits. The river was smooth and tranquil, and his boat glided placidly
+over water clear as crystal, past lovely islands, densely covered with
+tropical vegetation, and by high banks with red cliffs peering through
+their back-ground of palm trees. The traveller was not altogether
+unprepared for the marvels that lay ahead. Two hundred miles away he
+had heard of the fame of the great gorge Mozi-oa-Tunia&mdash;“the sounding
+smoke,” where the Zambesi mysteriously disappeared. As the falls were
+approached the pulse of the river seemed to quicken. It was still more
+than a mile wide, but it hurried over rapids, and chafed around points
+of rocks, and the most careful and skillful navigation was needed, lest
+the canoe should be dashed against a reef, or hurried helplessly down
+the chasm. The mystery in front became more inexplicable the nearer it
+was approached, for the great river seemed to disappear suddenly under
+ground, leaving its bed of hard black rock and well defined banks. By
+keeping the middle of the stream and cautiously paddling between the
+rocks, he reached a small island on the tip of the Victoria Falls&mdash;a spot
+where he planted some fruit trees, and for the only time on his travels
+carved his initials on a tree in remembrance of his visit.</p>
+
+<p>It could not be seen what became of the vast body of water, until the
+explorer had crept up the dizzy edge of the chasm from below, and
+peeped over into the dark gulf. The river, more than a mile in width,
+precipitated itself sheer down into a rent extending at right angles
+across its bed. The walls of the precipice were as cleanly cut as if done
+by a knife, and no projecting crag broke the sheet of falling waters.
+Four rocks, or rather small islands, on the edge of the falls divide them
+into five separate cascades, and in front of each fall rises one of the
+tall pillars of smoke which are visible in time of flood at a distance of
+ten miles. Only at low water can the island on
+which<!--358.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">351</a></span>
+Livingstone stood
+be approached, for when the river is high any attempt to reach it would
+result in a plunge into the abyss below. Against the black wall of the
+precipice opposite the falls two, three, and sometimes four rainbows,
+each forming three fourths of an arc, are painted on the ascending clouds
+of spray, which continually rush up from the depths below. A fine rain
+is constantly falling from these clouds, and the cliffs are covered with
+dense, dripping vegetation. But the great sight is the cataract itself.
+The rent in the rocks seems to be of comparatively recent formation, for
+their edges are worn back only about three feet.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_351.jpg" width="600" height="483"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">VICTORIA FALLS, OR MOZI-OA-TUNIA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Since Livingstone’s first visit, the falls have been more minutely
+examined by other explorers, so that we now know more accurately their
+dimensions and leading features. The breadth of the river at the falls
+has been ascertained to
+be<!--359.png--><span class="pagenum">352</span>
+over 1860 yards, and the depth of the
+precipice below the island 360 feet, or twice that of Niagara. At the
+bottom of the rent, all the waters that have come over the falls rush
+together in the centre of the gulf immediately beneath the island where,
+confined in a space of twenty or thirty yards, they form a fearful
+boiling whirlpool. From this a stream flows through the narrow channel
+at right angles to the course above and, turning a sharp corner, emerges
+into another chasm parallel with the first; then through another confined
+gap to a third chasm; and so backward and forward in wild confusion
+through forty miles of hills, until it breaks out into the level country
+of the lower Zambesi. The rush of the river through this inaccessible
+ravine is not so turbulent as might be imagined from its being pent in
+between walls less than forty yards apart. It pushes its way with a
+crushing, grinding motion, sweeping around the sharp corners with a swift
+resistless ease that indicates plainly a great depth of water. It was
+through this gap, caused by some unrecorded convulsion of the earth, that
+the great lake which must have at one time occupied South Central Africa,
+has been drained, and it forms undoubtedly the most wonderful natural
+feature in Africa, if not in the world.</p>
+
+<p>At the great falls of the Zambesi, named the Victoria Falls in honor of
+the Queen of England, we are still a thousand miles from the sea, and
+hundreds of miles from the first traces of civilization, such as appear
+in the Portuguese possessions of eastern Africa.</p>
+
+<p>Nature has been exceedingly lavish of her gifts in the Lower Zambesi
+Valley, giving it a fertile soil, a splendid system of river
+communication, and great stores of mineral and vegetable wealth,
+everything indeed, that is necessary to make a prosperous country, except
+a healthy climate, and industrious population. Here as upon the borders
+of the Nile, war and slave hunting have cursed the country with an
+apparently hopeless blight. Around the falls themselves are the scenes
+of some of the most noteworthy events in Central African warfare. The
+history of what are called the “Charka Wars,” has not yet and never will
+be written, nevertheless they extended over as great an area
+and<!--360.png--><span class="pagenum">353</span>
+shook
+as many thrones and dominions as those of Bonaparte himself. Charka was a
+chief of the now familiar Zulu tribe, and grandfather of that celebrated
+Cetywayo, whose ill-starred struggle with the English cost him his
+country and his liberty, and whom we read of the other day as a royal
+captive in the streets of London. It is said that he had heard of the
+feats of the first Napoleon, and was smitten with a desire to imitate his
+deeds. He formed his tribes into regiments, and these became the famous
+Zulu bands which immediately began to make war on all their neighbors.
+Conquered armies were incorporated into the Zulu army, and Charka went
+on making conquests in Natal, Caffaria, and Southern Africa, leaving
+the lands waste and empty. He spread the fame of the Zulus far into the
+possessions of the English and Portuguese.</p>
+
+<p>Turning north, he occupied the country as far as the Zambesi. Crossing
+this stream, he moved into the regions between the Lakes Nyassa and
+Tanganyika, then he carried his power to the westward as far as the
+Victoria Falls, where he was met by the Makalolos, with whom Livingstone
+has just made us familiar. In this people, under their chief, Sebituane,
+he found an enemy worthy of his steel. This tribe could not be conquered
+so long as their chief lived, but at his death their kingdom began to go
+to pieces under Sekelutu, though he was not less brave and intelligent
+than his father. It was over the smouldering embers of these wars that
+Livingstone had to pass in his descent of the Zambesi.</p>
+
+<p>As he descended the Zambesi and approached the Indian Ocean, the stream
+gathered breadth and volume from great tributaries which flow into it on
+either side. The Kafue, hardly smaller than the Zambesi itself, comes
+into it from the north. Its course has still to be traced and its source
+has yet to be visited. Further down, the Loangwa, also a mighty river,
+enters it, and its banks, like those of the Kafue, are thickly populated,
+and rich in mineral treasures. The great Zambesi sweeps majestically
+on from one reach of rich tropical scenery to another. On its shores
+are seen the villages of native fisherman. Their huts and clearings for
+cotton and tobacco are girded about by
+dense<!--361.png--><span class="pagenum">354</span>
+jungles of bamboo, back
+of which rise forests of palm. Behind the forests the grand hills slope
+up steeply, diversified with clumps of timber and fringed with trees to
+their summits. Behind, extend undulated plains of long grass to the base
+of a second range of hills, the outer bank of the Zambesi Valley. Now
+and then, on either bank, a river valley opens, whose sides are thickly
+overgrown with jungle, above which rise the feathery tops of the palms
+and the stately stems of the tamarind; on their margins, or on the slopes
+above, herds of buffaloes, zebras, roebucks and wild pigs may be seen
+peacefully grazing together, with occasionally a troop of elephants or
+a solitary rhinoceros. Dr. Livingstone says, nowhere in all his travels
+has he seen such an abundance of animal life as in this portion of the
+Zambesi.</p>
+
+<p>Yet it is possible even here to be alone. The high walls of grass
+on either side of the jungle path seem to the traveller to be the
+boundaries of the world. At times a strange stillness pervades the air,
+and no sound is heard from bird or beast or living thing. In the midst
+of this stillness, interruptions come like surprises and sometimes in
+not a very pleasant form. Once while Dr. Livingstone was walking in a
+reverie, he was startled by a female rhinoceros, followed by her calf,
+coming thundering down along the narrow path, and he had barely time to
+jump into a thicket in order to escape its charge. Occasionally a panic
+stricken herd of buffaloes will make a rush through the centre of the
+line of porters and donkeys, scattering them in wild confusion into the
+bush and tossing perhaps the nearest man and animal into the air. Neither
+the buffalo nor any other wild animal, however, will attack a human being
+except when driven to an extremity. The lion or leopard, when watching
+for their prey, will perhaps spring on the man who passes by. The
+buffalo, if it thinks it is being surrounded, will make a mad charge to
+escape, or the elephant, if wounded and brought to bay, or in defense of
+its young, will turn on its pursuers. A “rogue” elephant or buffalo, who
+has been turned out of the herd by his fellows for some fault or blemish,
+and has become cross and ill-natured by his solitary life, has been
+known to make an unprovoked attack on the first creature, man or beast,
+that presents itself to
+his<!--362.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">355</a></span>
+sight. Thus, one savage “rogue” buffalo,
+furiously charged a native of Livingstone’s party, in the ascent of the
+Zambesi in 1860, and the man had barely time to escape into a tree when
+the huge head of the beast came crashing against the trunk with a shock
+fit to crack both skull and tree. Backing again, he came with another
+rush, and thus continued to beat the tree until seven shots were fired
+into him.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 496px;">
+<img src="images/i_355.jpg" width="496" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">CHARGE OF A BUFFALO.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>But as a rule, every untamed creature flees in terror on sighting
+red-handed man.</p>
+
+<p><!--363.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">356</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_356.jpg" width="600" height="576"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NATIVE SLAVE HUNTERS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The only real obstacle to a descent of the Zambesi by steamer between
+Victoria Falls and the sea, is what are called Kebrabesa Rapids, and even
+the navigation of these is believed to be possible in time of flood, when
+the rocky bed is smoothed over by deep water. In the ordinary state of
+the river these rapids cannot be passed, although the inhuman experiment
+has been tried of fastening slaves to a canoe and flinging them into
+the river above the rapids. Dr. Kirk had here an accident which nearly
+cost him his life. The canoe in which he was seated was caught in one of
+the many whirlpools formed by the cataract, and driven broadside toward
+the vortex. Suddenly a great upward boiling of the water, here nearly
+one hundred
+feet<!--364.png--><span class="pagenum">357</span>
+deep, caught the frail craft, and dashed it against
+a ledge of rock, which the doctor was fortunately able to grasp, and
+thus save himself, though he lost all his scientific instruments. When
+Livingstone’s boat, which was immediately behind the doctor’s reached the
+spot, the yawning cavity of the whirlpool had momentarily closed up and
+he passed over it in safety. All along the line of the Lower Zambesi we
+find traces of Portuguese colonies, and also of the slave trade. Nowhere
+in all Africa has this traffic been more flourishing or ruinous in its
+effects, than in the colony of Mozambique. Here too, Livingstone was the
+champion who, almost single handed, marched out and gave battle to this
+many headed monster. Like Baker in the north, he inflicted upon it what
+we must hope is a fatal wound. As with the Egyptian authorities in the
+north, so the Portuguese authorities in the south, seem to have been
+actively concerned with the slave dealers. They not only connived at it,
+but profited by it. At one time, before slave trading became a business,
+European influence and Christian civilization under the auspices of the
+Jesuit missionaries extended far into the interior. At the confluence of
+the Loangwa and Zambesi is still to be seen a ruined church of one of
+the furthest outposts of the Jesuit fathers, its bell half buried in the
+rank weeds. The spot is the scene of desolation now. Livingstone bears
+generous testimony to the zeal, piety and self abnegation of these Jesuit
+priests. Their plans and labors hindered the slave-gatherers’ success,
+and it became necessary to get rid of them by calumny and often worse
+weapons. With the failure of their mission perished all true progress and
+discovery, and when Livingstone visited the Portuguese colonies on the
+Zambesi, he found complete ignorance of the existence of the Victoria
+Falls and only vague rumors of the existence of Lake Nyassa from which
+the Shir&eacute;, the last of the great affluents of the Zambesi, was supposed
+to flow.</p>
+
+<p>Only ninety miles from the mouth of the great Zambesi, empties the Shir&eacute;
+from the north. It is a strong, deep river, and twenty years ago was
+unknown. It is navigable half way up, when it is broken by cataracts
+which descend 1200 feet in thirty-five miles. If this river is always
+bounded by
+sedgy<!--365.png--><span class="pagenum">358</span>
+banks, magnificent mountains are always in view on
+either side. No vegetation could be richer than that found in its valley,
+and its cotton is equal to our own Sea Island. The natives have both
+the skill and the inclination to work. It is not a healthy region along
+the river, for often the swamps are impenetrable to the base of the
+mountains. Animal life abounds in all tropical forms. The glory of the
+marshes is their hippopotami and elephants. Livingstone, in 1859, counted
+800 of these animals in sight at once. But they have been greatly thinned
+out by hunters.</p>
+
+<p>From the cataracts of the Shir&eacute;, Livingstone made several searches for
+lakes spoken of by the natives. He found Lake Shirwa amid magnificent
+mountain scenery. But the great feature of the valley is Lake Nyassa, the
+headwaters of the stream. It was discovered by Livingstone, September
+16, 1859. It is 300 miles long and 60 wide. It resembles Albert Nyanza
+and Tanganyika, with which it was formerly supposed to be connected.
+Its shores are overhung by tall mountains, down which cascades plunge
+into the lake. But once on the tops of these mountains, there is
+no precipitous decline; only high table land stretching off in all
+directions. The inhabitants are the wildest kind of Zulus, who carry
+formidable weapons and paint their bodies in fiendish devices. They are
+the victims of the slave traders to an extent which would shock even the
+cruel Arab brigands of the White Nile.</p>
+
+<p>Lake Nyassa is a “Lake of Storms.” Clouds are often seen approaching on
+its surface, which turn out to be composed of “Kungo” flies, which are
+gathered and eaten by the natives. The ladies all wear lip rings. Some of
+the women have fine Jewish or Assyrian features, and are quite handsome.
+The fine Alpine country north of Nyassa has not been explored, except
+slightly by Elton and Thompson, who found it full of elephants, and one
+of the grandest regions in the world for sublime mountain heights, deep
+and fertile valleys, and picturesque scenery. The mountains rise to a
+height of 12,000 to 14,000 feet, and are snow capped.</p>
+
+<p>In the valley of the Shir&eacute; lie the bones of many an
+African<!--366.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">359</a></span>
+explorer.
+Bishop Mackensie is buried in its swamps. Thornton found a grave at the
+foot of its cataracts. A few miles below its mouth, beneath a giant
+baobab tree repose the remains of Mrs. Livingstone, and near her is the
+resting place of Kirkpatrick, of the Zambesi Survey of 1826.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 293px;">
+<img src="images/i_359.jpg" width="293" height="210"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">HUAMBO MAN AND WOMAN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Yet the thirst for discovery in the Zambesi country has not abated. Nor
+will it till Nyassa, Tanganyika, and even Victoria and Albert Nyanza, are
+approachable, for there can be no doubt that the Zambesi is an easier
+natural inlet to the heart of Africa than either the Nile or Congo.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 151px;">
+<img src="images/i_359b.jpg" width="151" height="200"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SAMBO WOMAN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 486px;">
+<img src="images/i_359c.jpg" width="486" height="301"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">GANGUELA WOMEN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>No account of the Zambesi can be perfect without mention of Pinto’s
+trip across the continent of Africa. He started from Benguela, on the
+Atlantic, in 1877, under the auspices of
+the<!--367.png--><span class="pagenum">360</span>
+Portuguese Government
+and in two years reached the eastern coast. He was a careful observer
+of the people, and his journey was through the countries of the Nano,
+Huambo, Sambo, Moma, Bih&eacute;, Cubango, Ganguelas, Luchazes and others till
+he struck the Zambesi River. His observations of manners and customs are
+very valuable to the student and curious to the general reader. His work
+abounds in types of African character, and in descriptions of that art
+of dressing hair which Christian ladies are ever willing to copy but in
+which they cannot excel their dusky sisters. It takes sometimes two or
+three days to build up, for African ladies, their triumphs of barbers’
+art, but they last for as many months. The Huambo people, male and
+female, enrich their hair with coral beads in a way that sets it off with
+much effect. The Sambo women, though not so pretty in the face, affect a
+louder style of head dress, and one which may pass as more artistic. But
+Pinto was prepared to wonder how
+human<!--368.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">361</a></span>
+hair could ever be gotten into
+the various artistic shapes found on the heads of the Ganguela women.
+Their skill and patience in braiding seemed to be without limit. The Bih&eacute;
+head dress was more flaunting but not a whit less becoming. Indeed there
+seemed in all the tribes to be a special adaptation of their art to form
+and features, but whether it was the result of study or accident, Pinto
+could not of course tell, being a man and not up in ladies’ toilets. The
+Quimbande girls wore their hair comparatively straight, but their heads
+were covered with cowries bespangled with coral beads. The Cabango women
+have a happy knack of thatching their heads with their hair in such a way
+as to give the impression that you are looking on an excellent job of
+Holland tiling, or on the over-lapping scales of a fish.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 315px;">
+<img src="images/i_360.jpg" width="315" height="346"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">BIHE HEAD DRESS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 408px;">
+<img src="images/i_360b.jpg" width="408" height="221"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">QUIMBANDE GIRLS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 290px;">
+<img src="images/i_361a.jpg" width="290" height="379"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">CABANGO HEAD DRESS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Luchaze women evidently take their models from the grass covers of
+their huts. They make a closely woven mat of their hair which has the
+appearance of fitting the scalp like a cap. The Ambuella head dress is as
+neatly<!--369.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">362</a></span>
+artistic as any modern lady could desire. Indeed there is nothing
+in civilized countries to approach it in its combination of beauty and
+adaption for the purposes intended.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 291px;">
+<img src="images/i_361b.jpg" width="291" height="359"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">LUCHAZE WOMAN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 318px;">
+<img src="images/i_362.jpg" width="318" height="383"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AMBUELLA WOMAN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Pinto’s journey across Africa was one of comparative leisure. He was
+well equipped, and was scarcely outside of a tribe that had not heard
+of Portuguese authority, which extends inland a great ways from both
+the east and west sides of the Continent. He did not however escape the
+ordinary hardships of African travel, even if he had time to observe and
+make record of many things which escaped the eye of other explorers.</p>
+
+<p>The high carnival, or annual festival, of the Sova Mavanda was a
+revelation to him. He had seen state feasts and war dances, but in this
+the dancing was conducted with a regularity seldom witnessed on the
+stage, and the centre of attraction was the Sova chief, masked after the
+fashion of a harlequin, and seemingly as much a part of the performance
+as a clown in a circus ring.</p>
+
+<p>The rivers of this part of Africa are a prominent obstacle in a
+traveller’s path. Even where they are bordered by wide, sedgy swamps,
+there is in the centre a deep channel, and nearly always an absence of
+canoes. But the natives are quick to find out fording places which are
+generally where the waters run swiftly over sand-bars. Pinto’s passage of
+the Cuchibi was affected at a fording where the bar was very narrow, the
+water on either side 10 to 12 feet deep, and the current running at the
+rate of 65 yards a minute. It was a difficult task, but was
+completed<!--370.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">363</a></span>
+in
+less than two hours by his whole party, and without accident.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_363.jpg" width="600" height="598"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">MASKED CHIEF AND SOVA DANCE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_364.jpg" width="600" height="595"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">FORDING THE CUCHIBI.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>After striking the tributaries of the Zambesi, he followed them to their
+junction with the main stream in the very heart of Africa. Then he
+descended the Zambesi in canoes to the mouth of the Cuango, or Chobe,
+in the country of the Makalolos. He passed by the Gonye Falls, and down
+through the Lusso Rapids, where safety depends entirely on the skill of
+the native canoemen. After passing these rapids, which occupy miles of
+the river’s length, he came into the magnificent
+Barotze<!--371.png--><span class="pagenum">364</span>
+region where
+the river waters a finer plain than the Nile in any of its parts. But
+Livingstone has already made us familiar with the Zambesi throughout all
+these parts. Yet it is due to Pinto to say he made, with the instruments
+at his command, more careful observations of the great Victoria Falls
+(Mozi-oa-tunia) than any previous explorer, especially from below. He
+could not get a height of over 246 feet, owing to the difficulty of
+seeing to the bottom of the gorge, and found the verge broken into three
+sections, one of a width of 1312 feet, another of 132 feet, and the
+remainder a saw-like edge over which the waters poured smoothly only when
+the stream was full.</p>
+
+<p><!--372.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">365</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 380px;">
+<img src="images/i_365.jpg" width="380" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">VICTORIA FALLS FROM BELOW.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--373.png--><span class="pagenum">366</span></p>
+
+<p>“These falls,” says Pinto, “can be neither properly depicted nor
+described. The pencil and the pen are alike at fault, and in fact, save
+at their western extremity, the whole are enveloped in a cloud of vapor
+which, perhaps fortunately, hides half the awfulness of the scene. It is
+not possible to survey this wonder of nature without a feeling of terror
+and of sadness creeping over the mind. Up at the Gonye Falls everything
+is smiling and beautiful, here at Mozi-oa-tunia everything is frowning,
+and awful.”</p>
+
+<p>Pinto’s journey was now southward across the great Kalihari Desert, and
+thence to the eastern coast. We must go with him to the centre of this
+desert, for he unravels a secret there in the shape of “The Great Salt
+Pan.”</p>
+
+<p>We remember Livingstone’s discovery of Lake Ngami, into which and out
+of which pours the Cubango river, to be afterwards lost in the central
+Salt Pan of the desert. Pinto discovered that this “Salt Pan” received,
+in the rainy season, many other large tributaries, and then became an
+immense lake, or rather system of pans or lakes, ten to fifteen feet deep
+and from 50 to 150 miles long. This vast system, he says, communicates
+with Lake Ngami by means of the Cubango, or Zonga River, on nearly the
+same level. If Ngami rises by means of its inflow, the current is down
+the Cubango toward the “Salt Pans.” If however the “Pans” overflow, by
+means of their other tributaries, the current is up the Cubango toward
+Lake Ngami. So that among the other natural wonders of Africa we have not
+only a system of great rivers pouring themselves into an inland sea with
+no outlet except the clouds, but also a great river actually flowing two
+ways for a distance of over a hundred miles, as the one or the other lake
+on its course happens to be fullest.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><!--374.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">367</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>
+THE CONGO.
+</h2>
+
+<p>Lake Tanganyika had been known to the Arab slave hunters of the east
+coast of Africa long before the white man gazed upon its bright blue
+waters. These cunning, cruel people had good reasons for guarding well
+the secret of its existence. Yet popular report of it gave it many an
+imaginary location and dimension. What is remarkable about it is that
+since it has been discovered and located, it has taken various lengths
+and shapes under the eye of different observers, and though it has been
+circumnavigated, throughout its 1200 miles of coast, no one can yet be
+quite positive whether it has an outlet or not.</p>
+
+<p>It is 600 miles inland from Zanzibar, or the east coast of Africa, and
+almost in the centre of that wonderful basin whose reservoirs contribute
+to the Nile, Zambesi and Congo. The route from Zanzibar half way to the
+lake is a usual one, and we need not describe it. The balance of the way,
+through the Ugogo and Unyamwezi countries, is surrounded by the richest
+African verdure and diversified by running streams and granitic slopes,
+with occasional crags. At length the mountain ranges which surround the
+lake are reached, and when crossed there appear on the eastern shore the
+thatched houses of Ujiji, the rendezvous of all expeditions, scientific,
+commercial and missionary, that have ever reached these mysterious waters.</p>
+
+<p>Burton and Speke were the white discoverers of Tanganyika. It seemed to
+them the revelation of a new world&mdash;a sight to make men hold their breath
+with a rush of new thoughts, as when Bilboa and his men stood silent on
+that peak in Darien and gazed upon the Pacific Ocean.</p>
+
+<p>Fifteen years later Cameron struck it and could not believe that the
+vast grey expanse was aught else than clouds on the distant mountains of
+Ugoma, till closer observation proved the contrary.</p>
+
+<p><!--375.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">368</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Livingstone struck it from the west side. It was on his last journey
+through Africa, he had entered upon that journey at Zanzibar, in April
+1866, and made for Lake Nyassa and its outlet the Shir&eacute; River, both of
+which have been described in connection with the Zambesi.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_368.jpg" width="600" height="495"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">BURTON AND SPEKE ON TANGANYIKA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Then began that almost interminable ramble to which he fell a victim.
+He was full of the theory that no traveller had yet seen the true head
+waters of the Nile&mdash;in other words that neither Victoria nor Albert
+Nyanza were its ultimate reservoirs, but that they were to be found
+far below the equator in that bewildering “Lake Region” which never
+failed to reveal wonderful secrets to such as sought with a patience and
+persistency like his own.</p>
+
+<p>He was supported in this by the myths of the oldest
+historians,<!--376.png--><span class="pagenum">369</span>
+by
+the earliest guesses which took the shape of maps, by the traditions
+of the natives that boats had actually passed from Albert Nyanza into
+Tanganyika, but above all by the delusion that the great river Lualaba,
+which he afterwards found flowing northward from lakes far to the south
+of Tanganyika, could not be other than the Nile itself.</p>
+
+<p>On his way westward from Lake Nyassa, he came upon the Loangwa River, a
+large affluent of the Zambesi from the north. Crossing this, and bearing
+northwest, he confronted the Lokinga Mountains, from whose crests he
+looked down into the valley of the Chambesi. It was clear that these
+mountains formed a shed which divided the waters of the central basin,
+or lake region, of Africa from those which ran south into the Zambesi.
+Had he discovered the true sources of the Nile at last? Where did those
+waters go to, if not to the Mediterranean? The journal of his last
+travels is full of soliloquies and refrains touching the glory of a
+discovery which should vindicate his theory and set discussion at rest.</p>
+
+<p>And what was he really looking down upon from that mountain height?
+The Chambesi&mdash;affluent of Lake Bangweola? Yes. But vastly more. He was
+looking on the head waters of the northward running Lualaba, which proved
+his <i>ignis fatuus</i> and led him a six year dance through the wilderness
+and to his grave. The Lualaba has been christened Livingstone River, in
+honor of the great explorer. Then again it was only the Lualaba in name,
+which he was pursuing, with the hope that it would turn out to be the
+Nile. It was really the great Congo, for after the Lualaba runs northeast
+toward Albert Nyanza, and to a point far above the equator, it makes a
+magnificent sweep westward, and southwestward, and seeks the Atlantic at
+a point not ten degrees above the latitude of its source.</p>
+
+<p>Thus was Livingstone perpetually deceived. But for all that we must
+ever admire his enthusiasm for research and his heroism under extreme
+difficulties. When he plunged down the mountain side into the depths of
+the forests that lined the Chambesi, it was to enter a night of wandering
+which had no star except the meeting of Stanley at Ujiji in 1871, and
+no<!--377.png--><span class="pagenum">370</span>
+morning at all. What a story of heroic adventure lies in those years!</p>
+
+<p>Ere his death, his followers had deserted him, carrying back to the coast
+lying stories of his having been murdered. Trusted servants ran away
+with his medicine chest, leaving him no means of fighting the deadly
+diseases which from that hour began to break down his strength. The
+country ahead had been wasted and almost emptied of inhabitants by the
+slave-traders. Hunger and thirst were the daily companions of his march.
+Constant exposure to wet brought on rheumatism and ague; painful ulcers
+broke out in his feet; pneumonia, dysentery, cholera, miasmatic fever,
+attacked him by turns; but still, so long as his strength was not utterly
+prostrated, the daily march had to be accomplished. Still more trying
+than the fatigue were the vexatious delays, extending sometimes over
+many months, caused by wars, epidemics, or inundation, that frequently
+compelled him to retrace his steps when apparently on the verge of some
+great discovery. Often, in order to make progress, he had no alternative
+but to attach his party to some Arab expedition which, under pretence of
+ivory-trading, had come out to plunder, to kidnap, and to murder. The
+terrible scenes of misery and slaughter of which he was thus compelled to
+be the witness, had perhaps a stronger and more depressing effect on his
+mind than all the other trials that fell to his lot. “I am heart-broken
+and sick of the sight of human blood,” he writes, as he turns, baffled,
+weary, and broken in health from one line of promising exploration to
+another.</p>
+
+<p>He has left us only rough jottings of this story of wild adventure and
+strange discovery. For weeks at a time no entries are found in his
+journal. The hand that should have written them was palsied with fever,
+the busy brain stunned into unconsciousness, and the tortured body borne
+by faithful attendants through novel scenes on which the eager explorer
+could no longer open his eyes. His letters were stolen by Arabs&mdash;both
+those going to and coming from him. Yet his disjointed notes, written
+on scraps of old newspapers with ink manufactured by himself out of the
+seeds of native plants, tell
+a<!--378.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">371</a></span>
+more affecting tale of valuable discovery
+than many a carefully written narrative.</p>
+
+<p>He gives us glimpses into the Chambesi jungles, whose population has
+been almost swept away by the slave dealers. Fires sweep over the virgin
+lands in the dry season. A single year restores to them their wonted
+verdure. Song birds relieve the stillness of the African forests, but
+those of gayest plumage are silent. The habits of bees, ants, beetles
+and spiders are noted, and of the ants, found in all parts of Africa,
+those in these central regions build the most palatial structures. The
+most ferocious enemy of the explorer is not the portentous weapon of
+lion’s claw, rhinoceros’ horn, or elephant’s tusk, but a small fly&mdash;the
+notorious tsetse, whose bite is death to baggage animals, whose swarms
+have brought ruin to many a promising expedition, and whose presence is a
+more effectual barrier to the progress of civilization than an army of a
+million natives.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_371.jpg" width="600" height="292"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ANT HILL 13 FEET HIGH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Then he is full of quaint observations on the lion, for which he had
+little respect, and on the more lordly elephant and rhinoceros. A glade
+suddenly opens where a group of shaggy buffaloes are grazing, or a herd
+of startled giraffes scamper away through the foliage with their long
+necks looking like “locomotive obelisks.” Then comes a description of a
+hippopotamus hunt&mdash;“the bravest thing I ever saw.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 477px;">
+<img src="images/i_372.jpg" width="477" height="700"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">TOP: GIBBON. LEFT: CHIMPANZEE. RIGHT: ORANG.
+BOTTOM: GORILLA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Again the night is often made hideous by the shrieks of the
+soko&mdash;probably the gorilla of Du Chaillu, and of which
+Cameron<!--380.png--><span class="pagenum">373</span>
+heard on
+Tanganyika and Stanley on the Lualaba. But only Livingstone has given
+us authentic particulars of it. Its home is among the trees, but it can
+run on the ground with considerable speed, using its long fore-arms as
+crutches, and “hitching” itself along on its knuckles. In some respects
+it behaves quite humanly. It makes a rough bed at night among the trees,
+and will draw a spear from its body and staunch the wound with grass. It
+is a pot-bellied, wrinkled-faced, human-featured animal with incipient
+whiskers and beard. It will not attack an unarmed man or woman but will
+spring on a man armed with a spear or stick. In attack it will seize the
+intruder in its powerful arms, get his hand into its mouth, and one by
+one bite off his fingers and spit them out. It has been known to kidnap
+babies, and carry them up into the trees, but this seems to be more out
+of sport than mischief. In his family relations the male soko is a model
+of affection&mdash;assisting the mother to carry her young and attending
+strictly to the proprieties of soko society. A young soko which was in
+the doctor’s possession had many intelligent and winning ways, showed
+great affection and gratitude, was careful in making its bed and tucking
+itself in every night, and scrupulously wiped its nose with leaves. In
+short, it must be allowed, that the native verdict, that the “soko has
+good in him,” is borne out by the known facts, and that in some respects
+he compares not unfavorably, both in character and manners, with some of
+the men we make acquaintance with in our wanderings through Africa.</p>
+
+<p>It was in April 1867, one year after his start from Zanzibar, that
+Livingstone crossed the Chambesi, and soon afterwards found himself on
+the mountains overlooking Lake Liemba, which proved to be none other
+than the southern point of our old friend Lake Tanganyika. Thence he
+zigzagged westward over sponge covered earth till he struck Lake Moero,
+with a stream flowing into its southern end&mdash;really the Lualaba, on its
+way from Lake Bangweola&mdash;and out at its northern&mdash;again the Lualaba&mdash;into
+other lakes which the natives spoke of. Now, more than ever before, he
+was persuaded that he was on the headwaters of the Nile, and he would
+have followed his river
+up<!--381.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">374</a></span>
+only to surprise himself by coming out into
+the Atlantic through the mouth of the great Congo, if it had not been for
+native wars ahead.</p>
+
+<p>Then he put back to examine a great lake of this river system, which the
+natives said existed south of Lake Moero. After a tramp of weeks through
+wet and dry, he found himself on the marshy banks of Lake Bangweola.
+Close by where he struck it, was its outlet, the Lualaba, here known as
+Luapula. It is a vast reservoir, 200 miles long by 130 broad, and has no
+picturesque surroundings, but is interspersed with many beautiful islands.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_374.jpg" width="600" height="486"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A SOKO HUNT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Confident now that he had the true source of the Nile&mdash;for the
+water-shed to the south told him that every thing below it ran into the
+Zambesi&mdash;nothing remained but for him to
+return<!--382.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">375</a></span>
+to where he had left off
+his survey of the Lualaba, far to the north, and to follow that stream
+till he proved the truth of his theory. In going thither he would take
+in Lake Tanganyika. It was a terrible journey. For sixteen days he was
+carried in a litter under a burning sun, through marshy hollows and over
+rough hills. Sight of Tanganyika revived his drooping spirits, but he
+feared he must die before reaching Ujiji. It was March 1869, before he
+reached the coveted resting place, but he found awaiting him no aid,
+no medicines, no letters. He had been dead to the world for three long
+years. King Mirambo was off on the war-path against the Arabs, and
+Livingstone had to wait, undergoing slow recovery for many months.</p>
+
+<p>At length, following in the trail of Arab slave dealers who had never
+before penetrated so far westward of the lake, and frequent witness of
+their barbarities, he reached a point on the Lualaba as far north as
+Nyangwe, where the river already began to take the features of cliff
+and ca&ntilde;on which Stanley found to belong to the lower Congo, and where
+the natives showed the prevalence of those caste ideas which prevail on
+the western coast but are unknown on the eastern. The region was also
+one of gigantic woods, into which the sun’s rays never penetrated, and
+beneath which were pools of water which never dried up. The river flats
+were a mass of luxuriant jungle, abounding in animal life. Livingstone
+was greatly annoyed at one of his halting places by the depredations
+of leopards on his little flock of goats. A snare gun was set for the
+offenders. It was heard to go off one night, and his attendants rushed to
+the scene with their lances. The prize had been struck and both its hind
+legs were broken. It was thought safe to approach it, but when one of the
+party did so, the stricken beast sprang upon the man’s shoulder and tore
+him fearfully before being killed. He was a huge male and measured six
+feet eight inches from nose to tail.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_376.jpg" width="600" height="349"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A DANGEROUS PRIZE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Nyangwe, the furthest point of his journey up, or rather down, the
+Lualaba, or Congo, is in the country of the Manyuema, the finest race
+Livingstone had seen in Africa.
+The<!--384.png--><span class="pagenum">377</span>
+females are beautiful in feature and
+form. The country is thickly peopled, and they have made considerable
+progress in agriculture and the arts. Villages appear at intervals of
+every two or three miles. The houses are neatly built, with red painted
+walls, thatched roofs, and high doorways. The inhabitants are clever
+smiths, weavers and tanners, and all around are banana groves and
+fields tilled in maize, potatoes and tapioca. The chiefs are important
+personages, who exercise arbitrary authority and dress regally.
+Livingstone suspected they practised cannibalism, but could not prove
+it. Stanley noticed a row of 180 skulls decorating one of their village
+streets. He was told they were soko skulls, but carrying two away, he
+presented them to Prof. Huxley, who pronounced them negro craniums of the
+usual type.</p>
+
+<p><!--385.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">378</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_377.jpg" width="600" height="513"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NYANGWE MARKET.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One of their great institutions is the market, held in certain villages
+on stated days. People come to these from great distances to exchange
+their fish, goats, ivory, oil, pottery, skins, cloth, ironware, fruit,
+vegetables, salt, grain, fowls, and even slaves. There is a great variety
+of costume, loud crying of wares, much bargaining and no inconsiderable
+hilarity. The market at Nyangwe is held every four days, and the
+assemblage numbers as many as 3000 people. Even in war times market
+people are allowed to go to and fro without molestation.</p>
+
+<p>The Arab slave traders are fast demoralizing these people. They set the
+different tribes to fighting and then step in and carry off multitudes
+of slaves. One fine market day these miscreants suddenly appeared among
+the throng of unsuspecting people and began an indiscriminate firing.
+They fled in all directions, many jumping into the river. The sole
+object of the slave stealers was to strike terror into the hearts of the
+inhabitants by showing the power of a gun. Livingstone witnessed this
+unprovoked massacre and thought that five hundred innocent lives were
+lost in it.</p>
+
+<p>He found the Lualaba a full mile wide at Nyangwe, and still believed
+it to be the Nile. In this firm belief he ceased to follow the stream
+further and turned his weary feet back to Ujiji on Tanganyika. It will
+always be a mystery how Livingstone could have nursed his delusion that
+he was on the Nile, for so long a time. The moment Cameron set his eyes
+on the Lualaba, he saw that it could not be the Nile, for its volume of
+water was many times larger than that of the Nile, and moreover its level
+was many hundred feet lower than the White Nile at Gondokoro. And though
+Stanley had the profoundest respect for the views of the great explorer,
+he hardly doubted that in descending the Lualaba he would emerge into the
+Atlantic through the mouth of the great Congo.</p>
+
+<p>Now while Livingstone is struggling foot-sore, sick, dejected, almost
+deserted, back to Ujiji on the Lake Tanganyika, for rest, for medicine,
+for news from home, after he has been lost for five long years, and after
+repeated rumors of his death had been sent from Zanzibar to England, what
+is taking place in the outside world?</p>
+
+<p><!--386.png--><span class="pagenum">379</span></p>
+
+<p>On October 16, 1869, Henry M. Stanley, a correspondent of the New York
+<i>Herald</i>, was at Madrid in Spain. On that date he received a dispatch
+from James Gordon Bennett, owner of the <i>Herald</i>, dated Paris. It read,
+“Come to Paris on important business.”</p>
+
+<p>With an American correspondent’s instinct and promptitude, Mr. Stanley
+knocked at Mr. Bennett’s door on the next night.</p>
+
+<p>“Who are you?” asked Bennett.</p>
+
+<p>“Stanley,” was the reply.</p>
+
+<p>“Yes; sit down. Where do you think Livingstone is?”</p>
+
+<p>“I do not know sir.”</p>
+
+<p>“Well, I think he is alive and can be found. I am going to send you to
+find him.”</p>
+
+<p>“What! Do you really think I can find Livingstone? Do you mean to send me
+to Central Africa?”</p>
+
+<p>“Yes, I mean you shall find him wherever he is. Get what news you can of
+him. And, may be he is in want. Take enough with you to help him. Act
+according to your own plans. But&mdash;<i>find Livingstone</i>.”</p>
+
+<p>By January, 1871, Stanley was at Zanzibar. He hired an escort, provided
+himself with a couple of boats, and in 236 days, after an adventurous
+journey, was at Ujiji on Tanganyika.</p>
+
+<p>It was November, 1871. For weary months two heroes had been struggling
+in opposite directions in the African wilds&mdash;Livingstone eastward from
+Nyangwe on the Lualaba, to find succor at Ujiji on Tanganyika Lake,
+Stanley westward from Zanzibar to carry that succor and greetings, should
+the great explorer be still alive.</p>
+
+<p>Providence had a hand in the meeting. Livingstone reached Ujiji just
+before Stanley. On November 2, Stanley, while pushing his way up the
+slopes which surrounded Tanganyika met a caravan. He asked the news, and
+was thrilled to find that a white man had just reached Ujiji, from the
+Manyuema.</p>
+
+<p>“A white man?”</p>
+
+<p>“Yes, a white man.”</p>
+
+<p>“How is he dressed?”</p>
+
+<p>“Like you.”</p>
+
+<p><!--387.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">380</a></span></p>
+
+<p>“Young, or old?” “Old; white hair, and sick.”</p>
+
+<p>“Was he ever there before?”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/i_380.jpg" width="450" height="700"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">STANLEY’S FIRST SIGHT OF TANGANYIKA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>“Yes; a long time ago.”</p>
+
+<p>“Hurrah!” shouted Stanley, “it is Livingstone. March quickly my men. He
+may go away again!”</p>
+
+<p><!--388.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">381</a></span></p>
+
+<p>They pressed up the slopes and in a few days were in sight of Tanganyika.
+The looked for hour was at hand.</p>
+
+<p>“Unfurl your flags and load your guns!” he cried to his companions.</p>
+
+<p>“We will, master, we will!”</p>
+
+<p>“One, two, three&mdash;fire!”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_381.jpg" width="600" height="515"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">MEETING OF LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A volley from fifty guns echoed along the hills. Ujiji was awakened.
+A caravan was coming, and the streets were thronged to greet it. The
+American flag was at first a mystery, but the crowd pressed round the new
+comers. Stanley pushed his way eagerly, all eyes about him.</p>
+
+<p>“Good morning, sir!”</p>
+
+<p>“Who are you?” he startlingly inquired.</p>
+
+<p>“Susi; Dr. Livingstone’s servant.”</p>
+
+<p>“Is Livingstone here?”</p>
+
+<p><!--389.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">382</a></span></p>
+
+<p>“Sure, sir; sure. I have just left him.”</p>
+
+<p>“Run, Susi; and tell the Doctor I am coming.”</p>
+
+<p>Susi obeyed. Every minute the crowd was getting denser. At length Susi
+came breaking through to ask the stranger’s name. The doctor could not
+understand it all, and had sent to find out, but at the same time in
+obedience to his curiosity, had come upon the street.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley saw him and hastened to where he was.</p>
+
+<p>“Dr. Livingstone, I presume.”</p>
+
+<p>“Yes,” said he with a cordial smile, lifting his hat.</p>
+
+<p>They grasped each other’s hands. “Thank God!” said Stanley, “I have been
+permitted to see you!”</p>
+
+<p>“Thankful I am that I am here to welcome you,” was the doctor’s reply.</p>
+
+<p>They turned toward the house, and remained long together, telling each
+other of their adventures; hearing and receiving news. At length Stanley
+delivered his batch of letters from home to the doctor, and he retired to
+read them.</p>
+
+<p>Then came a long and happy rest for both the explorers. Livingstone
+improved in health and spirits daily. His old enthusiasm was restored and
+he would be on his travels again. But he was entirely out of cloth and
+trinkets, was reduced to a retinue of five men, and had no money to hire
+more.</p>
+
+<p>One day Stanley said, “have you seen the north of Tanganyika yet?”</p>
+
+<p>“No; I tried to get there, but could not. I have no doubt that Tanganyika
+as we see it here is really the Upper Tanganyika, that the Albert Nyanza
+of Baker is the Lower Tanganyika, and that they are connected by a river.”</p>
+
+<p>Poor fellow! Did ever mortal man cling so to a delusion, put such faith
+in native stories and old traditions.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley proposed to lend his assistance to the doctor, to settle the
+question of Tanganyika’s northern outlet. The doctor consented; and now
+began a journey, which was wholly unlike the doctor’s five year tramp. He
+was in a boat and had a congenial and enthusiastic companion.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_383.jpg" width="600" height="364"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY ON TANGANYIKA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Tanganyika, like the Albert Nyanza which pours a
+Nile<!--391.png--><span class="pagenum">384</span>
+flood, and Nyassa
+which flows through the Shir&eacute; into the Zambesi, is an immense trough sunk
+far below the table-land which occupies the whole of Central Africa.
+Its surrounding mountains are high. Its length is nearly 500 miles, its
+waters deep, clear and brackish. Whither does it send its surplus waters?</p>
+
+<p>We have seen that Livingstone was sure it emptied through the Nile. This
+was what he and Stanley were to prove. In November 1871, three weeks
+after the two had so providentially met at Ujiji, they were on their
+voyage in two canoes. They coasted till they came to what Burton and
+Speke supposed to be the end of the lake, which turned out to be a huge
+promontory. Beyond this the lake widens and stretches for sixty miles
+further, overhung with mountains 7000 feet high. At length they reached
+the northern extremity where they had been assured by the natives that
+the waters flowed through an outlet. No outlet there. On the contrary
+seven broad inlets puncturing the reeds, through which the Rusizi River
+poured its volume of muddy water into the lake, from the north. Here
+was disappointment, yet a revelation. No Nile source in Tanganyika&mdash;at
+least not where it was expected to be found. Its outlet must be sought
+for elsewhere. Some thought it might connect eastward with Nyassa. But
+what of the great water-shed between the two lakes? Others thought
+it might have its outpour this way and that. Livingstone, puzzled
+beyond propriety, thought it might have an underground outlet into the
+Lualaba, and even went so far as to repeat a native story in support of
+his notion, that at a point in the Ugoma mountains the roaring of an
+underground river could be heard for miles.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing that Livingstone and Stanley did, helped to solve the mystery
+of an outlet, except their discovery of the Rusizi, at the north, which
+was an inlet. After a three weeks cruise they returned to Ujiji, whence
+Stanley started back for Zanzibar, accompanied part way by Livingstone.
+After many days’ journey they came to Unyanyembe where they parted
+forever, Stanley to hasten to Zanzibar and Livingstone to return to the
+wilds
+to<!--392.png--><span class="pagenum">385</span>
+settle finally the Nile secret. Stanley protested, owing to the
+doctor’s physical condition. But the enthusiasm of travel and research
+was upon him to the extent that he would not hear.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley had left ample supplies at Unyanyembe. These he divided with the
+doctor, so that he was well off in this respect. He further promised to
+hire a band of porters for him at Zanzibar and send them to him in the
+interior. They parted on March 13, 1872.</p>
+
+<p>“God guide you home safe, and bless you, my friend,” were the doctor’s
+words.</p>
+
+<p>“And may God bring you safe back to us all, my dear friend! Farewell!”</p>
+
+<p>“Farewell!”</p>
+
+<p>This was the last word Doctor Livingstone ever spoke to a white man. They
+wrung each other’s hands. Stanley was overcome, and turned away. He cried
+to his men, “Forward March!” and the sad scene closed.</p>
+
+<p>Livingstone waited at Unyanyembe for the escort Stanley had promised to
+send. They came by August, and on the 14 of the month (1872) he started
+for the southern point of Tanganyika, which he rounded, to find no
+outlet there. Then he struck for Lake Bangweolo, intending to solve all
+its river mysteries. That lake was to him an ultimate reservoir for all
+waters flowing north, and if the Lualaba should prove to be the Nile,
+then he felt he had its true source.</p>
+
+<p>This journey was a horrible one in every respect. It rained almost
+incessantly. The path was miry and amid dripping grass and cane. The
+country was flat and the rivers all swollen. It was impossible to tell
+river from marsh. The country was not inhabited. Food grew scarce. The
+doctor became so weak that he had to be carried across the rivers on the
+back of his trusty servant Susi. One stream, crossed on January 24, 1873,
+was 2000 feet wide and so deep that the waters reached Susi’s mouth, and
+the doctor got as wet as his carrier.</p>
+
+<p>These were the dark, dismal surroundings of Lake Bangweolo. Amid such
+hardships they skirted the northern side of the lake, crossed the
+Chambesi at its eastern end, where the river is
+300<!--393.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">386</a></span>
+yards wide and 18
+feet deep, and turned their faces westward along the south side.</p>
+
+<p>The doctor was now able to walk no further. When he tried to climb on his
+donkey he fell to the ground from sheer weakness. His faithful servants
+took him on their shoulders, or bore him along in a rudely constructed
+litter. On April 27, 1873, his last entry reads, “Knocked up quite, and
+remain&mdash;recover&mdash;sent to buy milch goats. We are on banks of the R.
+Molilamo.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_386.jpg" width="600" height="567"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE STREAM CAME UP TO SUSI’S MOUTH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>His last day’s march was on a litter through interminable marsh and rain.
+His bearers had to halt often, so violent were his pains and so great his
+exhaustion. He spoke kindly to
+his<!--395.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">388</a></span>
+humble attendants and asked how many
+days’ march it was to the Lualaba.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_387.jpg" width="600" height="346"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">LIVINGSTONE’S LAST DAY’S MARCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Susi replied that “it was a three days’ march.”</p>
+
+<p>“Then,” said the dying man, “I shall never see my river again.” The
+malarial poison was already benumbing his faculties. Even the fountains
+of the Nile had faded into dimness before his mind’s eye.</p>
+
+<p>He was placed in a hut in Chitambo’s village, on April 29, after his last
+day’s journey, where he lay in a semi-conscious state through the night,
+and the day of April 30. At 11 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> on the night of the 30, Susi
+was called in and the doctor told him he wished him to boil some water,
+and for this purpose he went to the fire outside, and soon returned with
+the copper kettle full. Calling him close, he asked him to bring his
+medicine-chest, and to hold the candle near him, for the man noticed he
+could hardly see. With great difficulty Dr. Livingstone selected the
+calomel, which he told him to place by his side; then, directing him to
+pour a little water into a cup, and to put another empty one by it, he
+said in a low, feeble voice, “All right; you can go out now.” These were
+the last words he was ever heard to speak.</p>
+
+<p>It must have been about 4 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span> when Susi heard Majwara’s step
+once more. “Come to Bwana, I am afraid; I don’t know if he is alive.” The
+lad’s evident alarm made Susi run to arouse Chuma, Chowper&eacute;, Matthew, and
+Muanuas&eacute;r&eacute;, and the six men went immediately to the hut.</p>
+
+<p>Passing inside, they looked toward the bed. Dr. Livingstone was not lying
+on it, but appeared to be engaged in prayer, and they instinctively drew
+backward for the instant. Pointing to him, Mujwara said, “When I lay
+down he was just as he is now, and it is because I find that he does
+not move that I fear he is dead.” They asked the lad how long he had
+slept. Majwara said he could not tell, but he was sure that it was some
+considerable time: the men drew nearer.</p>
+
+<p>A candle, stuck by its own wax to the top of the box, shed a light
+sufficient for them to see his form. Dr. Livingstone was kneeling by the
+side of his bed, his body stretched
+forward,<!--396.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">389</a></span>
+his head buried in his
+hands upon the pillow. For a minute they watched him: he did not stir,
+there was no sign of breathing; then one of them, Matthew, advanced
+softly to him and placed his hands to his cheeks. It was sufficient; life
+had been extinct some time, and the body was almost cold: Livingstone was
+dead.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_389.jpg" width="600" height="471"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">DEATH OF LIVINGSTONE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>His sad-hearted servants raised him tenderly up and laid him full length
+on the bed. They then went out to consult together, and while there they
+heard the cocks crow. It was therefore between midnight and morning of
+May 1, 1873, his spirit had taken its flight. His last African journey
+began in 1866.</p>
+
+<p>The noble Christian philanthropist, the manful champion of the weak and
+oppressed, the unwearied and keen-eyed lover of nature, the intrepid
+explorer whose name is as inseparably connected with Africa as that of
+Columbus is with America,
+had<!--397.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">390</a></span>
+sunk down exhausted in the very heart of
+the continent, with his life-long work still unfinished. His highest
+praise is that he spent thirty years in the darkest haunts of cruelty
+and savagery and yet never shed the blood of his fellow-man. The noblest
+testimony to his character and his influence is the conduct of that
+faithful band of native servants who had followed his fortunes so long
+and so far, and who, embalming his body, and secretly preserving all his
+papers and possessions, carried safely back over the long weary road to
+the coast all that remained of the hero and his work.</p>
+
+<p>Cameron was on his way toward Ujiji to rescue Livingstone when he heard
+of his death. He pursued his journey and reached Lake Tanganyika,
+determined to unravel the mystery of its outlet. He started on a sailing
+tour around the lake in March 1874. His flag boat was the “Betsy.” He
+only got half way round, but in this distance he counted the mouths of
+a hundred rivers, and found the shores constantly advancing in bold
+headlands and receding in deep bays. Both land and water teem with animal
+life. Elephants abounded in the jungles, rhinoceri and hippopotami were
+frequently seen, and many varieties of fish were caught. In one part the
+cliffs of the shores were sandstone, in another they were precipices of
+black marble, here were evidences of a coal formation, there crags of
+chalk whose bases were as clearly cut by the waves as if done with a
+knife. In many places cascades tumbled over the crags showing that the
+table land above was like a sponge filled with moisture.</p>
+
+<p>The native boatmen were lazy and full of superstitions. Every crag and
+island seemed to be the resort of a demon of some kind, whose power for
+harm had no limit in their imaginations. Never but once, and that in the
+country of King Kasongo, had he seen the natives fuller of credulity nor
+more subject to the powers of witchcraft and magic. Their stories of the
+various forms of devils which dwelt in out of the way places were wilder
+than any childish fiction, and their magicians had unbridled control of
+their imaginations.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 393px;">
+<img src="images/i_391.jpg" width="393" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">KING KASONGO’S MAGICIANS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Cameron’s course was southward from Ujiji. He turned
+the<!--398.png--><span class="pagenum">391</span>
+southern end
+of the lake and found no outlet there. But he saw some of the most
+extraordinary examples of rock and tree scenery in the world. There were
+magnificent terraces of
+rock<!--399.png--><span class="pagenum">392</span>
+which looked as if they had been built by
+the hands of man, and scattered and piled in fantastic confusion were
+over-hanging blocks, rocking stones, obelisks, and pyramids. All were
+overhung with trees whose limbs were matted together by creepers. It
+was like a transformation scene in a pantomime rather than a part of
+Mother Earth, and one seemed to await the opening of the rocks and the
+appearance of the spirits. Not long to wait. The creepers sway and are
+pulled apart. An army of monkeys swing themselves into the foreground
+and, hanging by their paws, stop and chatter and gibber at the strange
+sight of a boat. A shout from the boatmen, and they are gone with a
+concerted scream which echoes far and wide along the shores.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants are not impressive or numerous on the shores, yet
+they show art in dress, and in manufactures. They have been terribly
+demoralized by the slave traders, and many sections depopulated entirely.
+While sailing up the western shore of the lake, Cameron thought he found
+what was the long sought for outlet of Tanganyika&mdash;the traditional
+connecting link between it and Lakes Ngami and Albert Nyanza. Of a sudden
+the mountains broke away and a huge gap appeared in the shores. There was
+evidently a river there, and his boat appeared to be in a current setting
+toward it. The natives said it was the Lukuga, and that it flowed out of
+the lake westward toward the Lualaba.</p>
+
+<p>But alas for human credulity. Cameron ran into the Lukuga for seven or
+eight miles, found it a reedy lagoon, without current, stood up in his
+boat and looked seven or eight miles further toward a break in the hills,
+beyond which he was told the river ran away in a swift current from the
+lake, and then he returned home to tell the wondrous story. Tanganyika
+had an outlet after all. The wise men all said, “I told you so; the lake
+is no more mysterious than any other.” Why Cameron should have stopped
+short on the eve of so great a discovery, or why he should have palmed
+off a native story as a scientific fact, can only be accounted for by the
+fact that he was sick during most of his cruise and at times delirious
+with fever. While it was thought that he had clarified the
+Tanganyika<!--400.png--><span class="pagenum">393</span>
+situation, it was really more of a mystery than when Burton and Speke,
+or Livingstone and Stanley, left it.</p>
+
+<p>We here strike again the track of our own explorer Stanley. We have
+already followed him on his first African journey to Ujiji to find
+Livingstone, in 1871-72. We have seen also in our article on “The Sources
+of the Nile,” how he started on his second journey in 1874, determined
+to complete the work of Livingstone, by clearing up all doubts about the
+Nile sources. This involved a two-fold duty, first to fully investigate
+the Lakes Victoria Nyanza and Albert Nyanza; second the outlets of
+Tanganyika and the secret of the great Lualaba, which had so mystified
+Livingstone.</p>
+
+<p>In pursuit of this mission we followed him to Victoria Nyanza, on his
+second journey, and saw how he was entertained by King Mtesa, and what
+adventures he had on the Victoria Nyanza. He settled it beyond doubt
+that the Victoria was a single large lake, with many rivers running into
+it, the chief of which was the Alexandra Nile. This done, he had hoped
+to visit Albert Nyanza, but the hostility of the natives prevented. He
+therefore turned southwestward toward Tanganyika, and on his way fell
+in with the old King Mirambo with whom he ratified a friendship by the
+solemn ceremony of “blood brotherhood.” The American and African sat
+opposite each other on a rug. A native chief then made an incision in
+the right leg of Mirambo and Stanley, drew a little blood from each, and
+exchanged it with these words:&mdash;“If either of you break this brotherhood
+now established between you, may the lion devour him, the serpent poison
+him, bitterness be his food, his friends desert him, his gun burst in his
+hands and everything that is bad do wrong to him until his death.”</p>
+
+<p>On May 27, 1876, Stanley reached Ujiji, where he had met Livingstone in
+1871. Sadly did he recall the fact that the “grand old hero” who had
+once been the centre of absorbing interest in that fair scene of water,
+mountain, sunshine and palm, was gone forever. He came equipped to
+circumnavigate the lake. He had along his boat, the “Lady Alice,” built
+lightly and in sections for just this kind of work. Leaving the
+bulk<!--401.png--><span class="pagenum">394</span>
+of
+his extensive travelling party at Ujiji, well provided for, he took along
+only a sufficient crew for his boat, under two guides, Para, who had been
+Cameron’s attendant in 1874, and Ruango who had piloted Livingstone and
+Stanley in 1871.</p>
+
+<p>Once again the goodly “Lady Alice” was afloat, as she had been on
+Victoria Nyanza. He cruised along the shores for 51 days, travelled a
+distance of 800 miles, or within 125 miles of the entire circumference of
+the lake, and got back without serious sickness or the loss of a man. He
+found it a sealed lake everywhere&mdash;that is, with waters flowing only into
+it&mdash;none out of it.</p>
+
+<p>What then became of Cameron’s wonderful story about the outlet of the
+Lukuga? Stanley looked carefully into this. He found a decided current
+running down the river into the lake. He pushed up the river to the
+narrow gorge in the mountains, beyond which the natives said the Lukuga
+ran westward toward the Lualaba. There he found a true and false story.
+In this ancient mountain gap was a clear divide of the Lukuga waters.
+Part ran by a short course into Tanganyika; part westward into the
+Lualaba. Stanley was of the opinion that the waters of the lake were
+rising year by year, and that in the course of time there would be a
+constant overflow through the Lukuga and into the Lualaba, as perhaps
+there had been long ages ago. Even now there is not much difference
+between the level of the lake and the marshes found in the mountain gap
+beyond, and Mr. Hore, who has since visited the Lukuga gap, says he found
+a strong current setting out of the lake westward, so that the time may
+have already come which Stanley predicted.</p>
+
+<p>This Lukuga gap probably represents the fracture of an earthquake
+through which the waters of the lake escaped in former ages and which
+has been its safety-valve at certain times since. When it is full it
+may, therefore, be said to have an outlet. When not full its waters
+pass off by evaporation. It is only a semi-occasional contribution&mdash;if
+one at all&mdash;to the floods of the great Congo, and in this respect has
+no counterpart in the world. All of which settles the point of its
+connection with the Nile, and leaves the sources of that river to the
+north.
+Had<!--402.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395">395</a></span>
+Livingstone known this he could have saved himself the last
+two years of his journey and the perils and sickness which led to his
+death in the wilderness.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 403px;">
+<img src="images/i_395.jpg" width="403" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A WEIR BRIDGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>And now Stanley had clarified the situation behind him, which stretched
+over 800 miles of African continent. But
+looking<!--403.png--><span class="pagenum">396</span>
+toward the Atlantic,
+there lay stretched a 1000 miles of absolutely unknown country. Into this
+he plunged, and pursued his course till he struck the great northward
+running river&mdash;the Lualaba.</p>
+
+<p>The path was broken and difficult. Rivers ran frequent and deep, and
+crossing was a source of delay, except where, occasionally, ingeniously
+constructed bridges were found, which answered the double purpose of
+crossing and fish-weir. These are built of poles, forty feet long, driven
+into the bed of the stream and crossing each other near the top. Other
+poles are laid lengthwise at the point of junction, and all are securely
+tied together with bamboo ropes. Below them the nets of the fishermen are
+spread, and over them a person may pass in safety.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley’s party had been greatly thinned out, but it still consisted
+of 140 men. Cameron had found it impossible to follow the Lualaba.
+Livingstone had tried it again and again, to meet a more formidable
+obstacle in the hostility of the natives than in the forests, fens and
+animals. Could Stanley master its secret?</p>
+
+<p>He was better equipped than any of his predecessors, just as earnest,
+and not averse to using force where milder means could not avail. He had
+settled so many knotty African problems, that this the greatest of all
+had peculiar fascination for him. He would “freeze to this river” and see
+whether it went toward the Nile, or come out, as he suspected it would,
+through the Congo into the Atlantic.</p>
+
+<p>It was a mighty stream where he struck it, at the mouth of the
+Luama&mdash;“full 1400 yards wide and moving with a placid current”&mdash;and close
+to Nyangwe which was the highest point Livingstone had reached. Here he
+marshalled his forces for the unknown depths beyond. He had only one
+of his European attendants left&mdash;Frank Pocock. Not a native attendant
+faltered. It would have been death to desert, in that hostile region.</p>
+
+<p>Such woods, so tall, dense and sombre, the traveller had never before
+seen. Those of Uganda and Tanganyika were mere jungle in comparison. Even
+the Manyuema had penetrated but a little their depths. They line the
+course of the Lualaba for 1500 miles from Nyangwe. At first Stanley’s
+party<!--404.png--><span class="pagenum">397</span>
+was well protected, for ahead of it went a large group of Arab
+traders. It was the opinion of these men that the “Lualaba flowed
+northward forever.” Soon the Arabs tired of their tramp through the dark
+dripping woods, and Stanley found it impracticable to carry the heavy
+sections of the “Lady Alice.” It was resolved to take to the river and
+face its rapids and savage cannibal tribes, rather than continue the
+struggle through these thorny and gloomy shades.</p>
+
+<p>The river was soon reached and the “Lady Alice” launched. From this on,
+Stanley resolved to call the river the “Livingstone.” He divided his
+party, so that part took to the boat, and part kept even pace on the
+land. The stream and the natives were not long in giving the adventurers
+a taste of their peculiarities. A dangerous rapid had to be shot. The
+natives swarmed out in their canoes. The passage of the river was like a
+running fight.</p>
+
+<p>On November 23, 1877, while the expedition was encamped on the banks
+of the river at the mouth of the Ruiki, thirty native canoes made a
+determined attack, which was only repulsed by force. On December 8,
+the expedition was again attacked by fourteen canoes, which had to be
+driven back with a volley. But the fiercest attack was toward the end of
+December, when a fleet of canoes containing 600 men bore down upon them
+with a fearful din of war-drums and horns, and the battle cry “Bo-bo,
+Bo-bo, bo-bo-o-o-oh!” Simultaneously with the canoe attack a terrible
+uproar broke out in the forest behind and a shower of arrows rained on
+Stanley and his followers.</p>
+
+<p>There were but two courses for the leader, either to fight the best he
+knew how in defense of his followers, or meet a surer death by surrender.
+The battle was a fierce one for half an hour, for Stanley’s men fought
+with desperation. At length the canoes were beaten back, and thirty-six
+of them captured by an adroit ruse. This gave Stanley the advantage and
+brought the natives to terms. Peace was declared.</p>
+
+<p>Here the Arab traders declared they could go no further amid such a
+country. So they returned, leaving Stanley only his original followers,
+numbering 140. The year 1877 closed
+in<!--405.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_398" id="Page_398">398</a></span>
+disaster. No sooner had he
+embarked all his force in canoes, for the purpose of continuing
+his journey, than a storm upset some of them, drowning two men and
+occasioning the loss of guns and supplies.</p>
+
+<p>But the new year opened more auspiciously. It was a bright day and all
+were happily afloat on the broad bosom of the Lualaba, where safety lay
+in keeping in mid-stream, or darting to opposite shores when attacked.
+What a wealth of affluents the great river had and how its volume had
+been swelled! The Lomame had emptied through a mouth 600 yards wide.</p>
+
+<p>On the right the Luama had sent in its volume through 400 yards of width,
+the Lira with 300 yards, the Urindi with 500 yards, the Lowwa with 1200
+yards, the Mbura with two branches of 200 yards each, and 200 miles
+further on, the Aruwimi, 2000 yards from shore to shore.</p>
+
+<p>The Lualaba (Livingstone) had now become 4000 yards wide and was flowing
+persistently northward. The equator has been reached and passed. Can it
+be that all these waters are the floods of the Nile and that Livingstone
+was right? There was little time for reflection. The natives were ever
+present and hostile, and the waters themselves were full of dangers.</p>
+
+<p>But we have ran ahead of our party. Just after the mouth of the Lomame
+was passed the expedition reached that series of cataracts, which have
+been named Stanley Falls. Their roar was heard long before the canoes
+reached them, and high above the din of waters were heard the war-shouts
+of the Mwana savages on both sides of the stream. Either a way must be
+fought through these dusky foes, or the cataract with its terrors must be
+faced.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_399.jpg" width="600" height="367"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">STANLEY FIGHTING HIS WAY.</span>
+<a href="images/i_399x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>To dare the cataract was certain death. The canoes were brought to
+anchor, and a battle with the natives began. They were too strong, and
+Stanley retraced his course a little way, where he landed and encamped.
+Another trial, a fierce surge through the ranks armed with lances and
+poisoned arrows, gave them headway. The first cataract was rounded, and
+now they were in the midst of that wonderful series of waterfalls, where
+the Lualaba cuts its way for seventy miles through a range
+of<!--407.png--><span class="pagenum">400</span>
+high
+hills, with seven distinct cataracts, in a channel contracted to a third
+of its ordinary breadth, where the stream tumbles and boils, flinging
+itself over ledges of rock, or dashing frantically against the walls that
+hem it in, as if it were struggling with all its giant power to escape
+from its prison. Within the gorge the ear is stunned with the continual
+din of the rushing waters, and the attention kept constantly on the
+strain to avoid the perils of rock, rapid, whirlpool, and cataract with
+which the course is strewn. With extreme caution and good-luck the rapids
+may be run in safety; but how are frail canoes to survive the experiment
+of a plunge over a perpendicular ledge, in company with millions of tons
+of falling water, into an abyss of seething and gyrating foam?</p>
+
+<p>Ashore, the cannibal natives lie in wait to oppose a landing, or better
+still, to slay or capture victims for their sport or larder. A toilsome
+ascent has to be made to the summit of the bluffs forming the river banks
+over rough boulders and through tangled forest. In places where the fall
+of the stream is slight it may be possible to lower down the boats, by
+means of strong hawsers of creepers, to the pool below; but in other
+cases the canoes have to be dragged painfully up the cliffs, and launched
+again with almost equal toil where the current seems a little calmer.
+All this while the poisoned arrows are hissing through the air, spears
+are launched out of every thicket, and stones are slung or thrown at the
+unlucky pioneers from each spot of vantage. Only by van and rear guards
+and flanking parties, and maintaining a brisk fire can the assailants
+be kept at bay. The vindictive foe are as incessant in their attacks by
+night as by day; and the whiz of the flying arrow, the hurtling of lances
+through the temporary stockade and the sharp crack of the rifle, mingle
+with the dreams of the sleeper.</p>
+
+<p>The descent of Stanley Falls was not made without loss of life and
+property. In spite of every precaution, canoes would be dragged from
+their moorings and be sucked down by the whirlpools or swept over the
+falls; or the occupants would lose nerve in the presence of danger, and
+allow their craft to drift into the powerful centre current, whence
+escape was hopeless.</p>
+
+<p><!--408.png--><span class="pagenum">401</span></p>
+
+<p>During their passage occurred one of the most thrilling scenes in all
+this long journey through the Dark Continent. The canoes were being
+floated down a long rapid. Six had passed in safety. The seventh,
+manned by Muscati, Uledi Muscati, and Zaidi, a chief, was overturned in
+a difficult piece of the water. Muscati and Uledi were rescued by the
+eighth canoe; but Zaidi, clinging to the upturned canoe, was swept past,
+and seemed on the point of being hurled over the brink of the fall. The
+canoe was instantly split in two, one part being caught fast below the
+water, while the other protruded above the surface. To the upper part
+Zaidi clung, seated on the rock, his feet in the water. Below him leapt
+and roared the fall, about fifty yards in depth; above him stretched
+fifty feet of gradually sloping water.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Stanley and a part of the expedition were at this time on the banks.
+No more strange and perilous position than that of Zaidi can be imagined.
+A small canoe was lowered by means of a cable of ratans; but the rope
+snapped and the canoe went over the falls. Poles tied to creepers were
+thrown toward him but they failed to reach. The rock was full fifty yards
+from the shore. Stanley ordered another canoe, fastened by cables, to be
+lowered. Only two men could be found to man it&mdash;Uledi, the coxswain of
+the “Lady Alice,” and Marzouk, a boat boy. “Mamba Kwa Mungu,” exclaimed
+Uledi, “My fate is in the hands of God.”</p>
+
+<p>The two men took their places in the canoe and paddled across the stream.
+The cables which held the boat against the current were slackened, and
+it dropped to within twenty yards of the falls. A third cable was thrown
+from the boat toward Zaidi, but he failed to catch it till the sixth
+throw. Just as he grasped it the water caught him and carried him over
+the precipice. All thought him lost, but presently his head appeared, and
+he seemed still to have hold of the cable. Stanley ordered the canoemen
+to pull. They did so, but the upper cables of the canoe broke and it was
+carried toward the falls. Fortunately it caught on a rock, and Uledi and
+Marzouk were saved. They still had hold of the cable which Zaidi clung
+to. By dint of hard pulling they were enabled to save, for they dragged
+him<!--410.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_403" id="Page_403">403</a></span>
+back up the falls to their own perilous position. There were three
+now on the rock instead of one. Twenty times a cable loaded with a stone
+was thrown to them before they caught it. They drew it taut and thus had
+frail communication with the shore. But it was now dark and nothing more
+could be done till light came. In the morning it was decided that the
+cable was strong enough to hold the men if they would but try to wade and
+swim to shore. Uledi dared it, and reached land in safety. The others
+followed, and terminated an anxious scene.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_402.jpg" width="600" height="373"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">RESCUE OF ZAIDI.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Stanley was in the midst of these falls for twenty-two days and nights.
+On January 28, 1878, his peril and hardship ended by passing the last
+fall. By February 8, Rubanga, a village of the Nganza was reached,
+where he found friendly natives. And not a moment too soon, for his men
+were fainting for want of food. This was encouraging, but his heart was
+further rejoiced that the Lualaba had not only assumed its wide, placid
+flow, but had suddenly changed its northern direction to one almost
+westward toward the Atlantic. He was then not going toward the Nile. No,
+it was not a Nile water, but must be the Congo. What a rare discovery was
+then in store for him!</p>
+
+<p>And the natives verified the thought. For the Rubanga chief, on being
+questioned, first mentioned the Congo. “Ikutu ya Kongo,” said he, “that
+is the river’s name.” The words thrilled Stanley. The Lualaba had ceased
+to flow, the Congo had taken up its song and would witness the further
+adventures of the brave explorer. It was a mile and a half wide, with a
+magnificent bosom. Green, fertile islands sprinkled its glassy surface.
+The party enjoyed needed rest, in this paradise, and then February 10,
+the boats pulled down stream again, the rowers bending gleefully and
+hopefully to their arduous task.</p>
+
+<p>On the 14 the mouth of the Aruwimi was passed and they were in the
+Bangala country. Here they suffered from the most formidable attack yet
+made. It was the thirty-first struggle through which the party had passed
+on the Lualaba, or Congo, or Livingstone, though the latter name now
+seems out of place since we know that all is Congo, clear to Bangweolo,
+on whose shores Livingstone perished.</p>
+
+<p><!--411.png--><span class="pagenum">404</span></p>
+
+<p>The shores of both the Congo and Aruwimi resounded with the din of
+the everlasting war-drums, and from every cove and island swarmed a
+crowd of canoes, that began forming into line to intercept and attack
+the travellers. These crafts were larger than any that had yet been
+encountered. The leading canoe of the savages was of portentous length,
+with forty paddlers on each side, while on a platform at the bow were
+stationed ten redoubtable young warriors, with crimson plumes of the
+parrot stuck in their hair, and poising long spears. Eight steersmen were
+placed on the stern, with large paddles ornamented with balls of ivory;
+while a dozen others, apparently chiefs, rushed from end to end of the
+boat directing the attack. Fifty-two other vessels of scarcely smaller
+dimensions followed in its wake. From the bow of each waved a long mane
+of palm fibre; every warrior was decorated with feathers and ornaments of
+ivory; and the sound of a hundred horns carved out of elephants’ tusks,
+and a song of challenge and defiance chanted from two thousand savage
+throats, added to the wild excitement of the scene. Their wild war-cry
+was “Yaha-ha-ha, ya Bengala.”</p>
+
+<p>The assailants were put to flight after a series of charges more
+determined and prolonged than usual. This time, however, the blood of the
+strangers was fully up. They were tired of standing everlastingly on the
+defensive, of finding all their advances repelled with scorn and hatred.
+They carried the war into the enemy’s camp, and drove them out of their
+principal village into the forest. In the centre of the village was found
+a singular structure&mdash;a temple of ivory, the circular roof supported
+by thirty-three large tusks, and surmounting a hideous idol, four feet
+high, dyed a bright vermillion color, with black eyes, beard and hair.
+Ivory here was “abundant as fuel,” and was found carved into armlets,
+balls, mallets, wedges, grain pestles, and other articles of ornament and
+use; while numerous other weapons and implements of iron, wood, hide,
+and earthenware attested the ingenuity of the people. Their cannibal
+propensities were as plainly shown in the rows of skulls that grinned
+from poles, and the bones and other grisly remains of human feasts
+scattered about the village streets.</p>
+
+<p><!--412.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_405" id="Page_405">405</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_405.jpg" width="600" height="360"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ATTACK BY THE BANGALA.</span>
+<a href="images/i_405x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--413.png--><span class="pagenum">406</span></p>
+
+<p>They had now a peaceful river for a time, or rather they were enabled
+to float in its middle, or dodge from shore to shore, without direct
+attack. But food became scarce. On February 20, they got a supply from
+natives whom they propitiated. On the 23, Amima, wife of the faithful
+Kacheche died. Her last words to Stanley were, “Ah, master, I shall never
+see the sea again. Your child Amima, is dying. I have wished to see the
+cocoa-nuts and the mangoes, but, no, Amima is dying, dying in a Pagan
+land. She will never see Zanzibar again. The master has been very good to
+his children, and Amima remembers it. It is a bad world master, and you
+have lost your way in it. Good bye, master, and do not forget poor little
+Amima.” The simple pathos of this African girl sweetened a death-bed
+scene as much as a Christian’s prayer could have done.</p>
+
+<p>For a distance of 1000 miles from Stanley Falls the river is without
+cataracts, flowing placidly here, and there widening to ten miles,
+with numerous channels through reedy islands. Every thing was densely
+tropical&mdash;trees, flowers, plants, birds, animals. Crocodiles were
+especially plenty in the water, and all the large land animals of the
+equatorial regions could be seen at intervals. There were few adventures
+with these, for the party clung rigidly to their boats; but once in a
+while, a coterie, organized for a hunting bout, would come back with such
+stirring tales of attack and escape as we are accustomed to read of in
+connection with the eastern coasts of the continent where hunting the
+elephant, rhinoceros, lion, hippopotamus, is more of a regular business,
+and where spicy stories of adventure are accepted without question.</p>
+
+<p>After a treacherous attack by the people of King Chumbiri&mdash;Stanley’s
+thirty-second battle&mdash;the natives showed a more peaceable disposition.
+They had heard of western coast white men and knew something of their
+ways. So there was a pleasant flow of water and a safe shore, for many
+days. But now the river was about to change. It received the Ikelemba, a
+powerful stream of tea-colored water, 1000 yards wide. Its waters flowed
+along in the same bed, unmixed with those of the Congo, for 150 miles.
+This immense tributary and that
+of<!--414.png--><span class="pagenum">407</span>
+the Ibari, were reported to come
+from great lakes, 800 miles to the south, and probably the same that
+Livingstone and Cameron both mention in their travels.</p>
+
+<p>For 900 miles the Congo has had a fall of only 364 feet, or a third of
+a foot to the mile. We are now within 400 miles of the Atlantic, yet
+1150 feet above it, and on the edge of the great table lands of Central
+Africa. The days of smooth sailing are at an end. The mountains come
+close to the stream, and the channel narrows. The white chalky cliffs
+remind Frank Pocock of the coasts of Dover in his own England. A roar
+is heard in advance. The cataracts have begun again, and they sound as
+ominously as the war-cry of the natives hundreds of miles back in the
+woods and jungles.</p>
+
+<p>We have now been over four months on this river, and the next two
+hundred miles are to be the most tedious, laborious and disastrous of
+all. The terrors of Stanley Falls are here duplicated a thousand times.
+Bluffs rise 1500 feet high. Between them the river rushes over piles of
+boulders, or shoots with frightful velocity past the bases of impending
+crags, up which one must quickly scramble or else be carried into the
+boiling whirlpools below.</p>
+
+<p>These falls we shall call the “Livingstone Falls.” In their general
+features they are not like Niagara, or Victoria on the Zambesi, but
+a succession of headlong rushes, as if the river were tearing down a
+gigantic rock stairway.</p>
+
+<p>Of the Great Ntamo Fall, Stanley says: “Take a strip of sea, blown over
+by a hurricane, four miles in length by half a mile in breadth, and a
+pretty accurate conception of its rushing waves may be obtained. Some of
+the troughs were one hundred yards in length, and from one to another
+the mad river plunged. There was first a rush down into the middle of an
+immense trough, and then, by sheer force, the enormous volume would lift
+itself upwards steeply until, gathering itself into a ridge, it suddenly
+hurled itself twenty or thirty feet straight upwards before rolling down
+into another trough. The roar was deafening and tremendous. I can only
+compare it to the thunder of an express train through a rock tunnel.”</p>
+
+<p><!--415.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_408" id="Page_408">408</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In this vast current, rushing along at the rate of thirty miles an hour,
+the strongest steamer would be as helpless as a cockle-shell, and as for
+frail canoes, they had to be dragged from rock to rock, or taken clear
+from the water and borne by land around the obstructions. Frequently
+canoes were wrecked and then a halt had to be ordered till new ones were
+hewn from trees. Yet amid trial, sickness and sore distress they had to
+pause at times in wonder before the imposing sights that opened on them.
+One was that of the Edwin Arnold River which flings itself with a single
+bound of 300 feet into the Congo, clearing the base of its cliff by ten
+yards. Still more wonderful is the cascade of the Nkenke, which is a
+plunge of a 1000 feet; and near by another with a fall of 400 feet.</p>
+
+<p>Many gaps were made in the ranks of Stanley’s companions through this
+“Valley of Shadow.” In one day (March 28) he saw eleven of his men swept
+over a cataract and disappear in the boiling waters below. First a boat,
+in which was Kalulu, an attendant of Stanley in all his journeys, was
+sucked within the power of a fall and plunged into the abyss. Hardly had
+the eye turned from this horror when another canoe was seen shooting
+down the stream toward what appeared to be certain death. By almost a
+miracle it made an easy part of the cataract and the occupants succeeded
+in reaching the shore in safety. Close behind came a third with a single
+occupant. As the boat made its plunge the occupant rose and shouted a
+farewell to his companions on the shore. Then boat and man disappeared.
+A few days afterwards he re-appeared like an apparition in camp. He had
+been tossed ashore far below and held a prisoner by the natives, who had
+picked him up more dead than alive.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 446px;">
+<img src="images/i_409.jpg" width="446" height="700"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE LADY ALICE IN THE CONGO RAPIDS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On April 12, the “Lady Alice” herself, with her crew, came to the very
+verge of destruction. The boat was approaching a bay in which the camp
+for the night was to be made, when a noise like distant thunder fell on
+the ears of the crew. The river rose before them into a hill of water.
+It was a whirlpool, at its full. All hands bent to their paddles and
+the boat was plunged into the hill of water before it broke. They
+thus<!--417.png--><span class="pagenum">410</span>
+escaped being sucked into a vortex which would have sunk the boat and
+drowned all. As it was, the boat was whirled round and round through a
+succession of rapids, before the crew could bring her under control again.</p>
+
+<p>Fortunately the natives were still friendly and of superior type. They
+had many European manufactures, which pass from tribe to tribe in regular
+traffic, and enjoyed a higher civilization than those of the Central
+African regions. Stanley rested with these people for several days while
+his carpenter made two new canoes.</p>
+
+<p>On June 3, he lost his servant, comrade and friend, last of the
+Europeans, the brave and faithful Frank Pocock. All the boats had been
+taken from the water and carried past the Massase Falls, except the canoe
+“Jason,” in which were Pocock, Uledi and eleven others. This had gotten
+behind on account of Frank’s ulcerated feet. Chafing at the delay he
+urged Uledi to “shoot the falls,” against the latter’s judgment, and even
+taunted the crew with cowardice.</p>
+
+<p>“Boys,” cried Uledi, addressing the crew, “our little master is saying
+that we are afraid of death. I know there is death in the cataract; but
+come, let us show him that black men fear death as little as white men.”</p>
+
+<p>“A man can die but once!” “Who can contend with his fate?” “Our fate is
+in the hands of God,” were the various replies of the men.</p>
+
+<p>“You are men,” exclaimed Frank.</p>
+
+<p>The boat was headed for the falls. They were reached, and in another
+moment the canoe had plunged into the foaming rapid. Spun round like a
+top in the furious waters, the boat was whirled down to the foaming pit
+below. Then she was sucked below the surface and anon hurled up again
+with several men clinging to her, among them Uledi. Presently the form
+of the “little master” was seen floating on the surface. Uledi swam to
+him, seized him, and both sunk. When the brave Uledi appeared again he
+was alone. Poor Pocock’s tragic death was a blow to the whole expedition.
+Most of the party gave way to superstitious dread of the river and many
+deserted, but quickly returned, after a trial of the dreary woods.</p>
+
+<p><!--418.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_411" id="Page_411">411</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 389px;">
+<img src="images/i_411.jpg" width="389" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">DEATH OF FRANK POCOCK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On June 23, the carpenter of the expedition was swept over the Zinga
+Falls, in the canoe, “Livingstone,” and drowned. Stanley’s food supply
+was frequently very short amid the difficulties of Livingstone Falls.
+Not that there was not plenty on
+the<!--419.png--><span class="pagenum">412</span>
+shores, but his means of buying
+were exhausted, and such a thing as charity is not common to the African
+tribes. Even where most friendly, they are always on the lookout for a
+trade, and a bargain at that. It is a great hardship for them to give,
+without a consideration.</p>
+
+<p>The appearance of his attendants cut Mr. Stanley to the heart every
+day&mdash;so emaciated, gaunt, and sunken-eyed were they; bent and crippled
+with weakness who had once been erect and full of manly vigor. And
+the leader’s condition was no better. Gone now was all the keen ardor
+for discovery, the burning desire to penetrate where no white man had
+yet penetrated which animated his heart at the outset of his journey.
+Sickness that had drained his strength, anxiety that had strained to its
+utmost pitch the mind, sorrow for loss and bereavement that had wearied
+the spirit&mdash;these had left Mr. Stanley a very different man from that
+which he was when he set out full of hope and ardor from Zanzibar. All
+his endeavor now was to push on as fast as possible, to reach the ocean
+with as little more of pain and death to his followers as possible.</p>
+
+<p>At last Stanley struck a number of intelligent tribes who gave much
+information about the rest of the river and the coast. There were three
+great falls still below them, and any number of dangerous rapids. It
+would be folly to risk them with their frail barks. Moreover, he learned
+that the town of Boma, on the Atlantic coast, could be reached by easy
+journeys across the country. His main problem, as to whether the Lualaba
+and the Congo were the same, had long since been solved. He had been
+following the Congo all the time, had seen its splendid forests and
+mighty affluents, its dashing rapids and bewildering whirlpools and
+falls, had even, through the spectacles of Livingstone, seen its head
+waters in Lake Bangweolo, amid whose marshes the veteran explorer laid
+down his life.</p>
+
+<p>What need then to risk life further at this time, and in his very poor
+condition. He resolved to leave the river and make direct for the
+coast at Boma. When he assembled his followers to make this welcome
+announcement to them, they were overcome with joy. Poor Safeni, coxswain
+of the “Lady Alice,”
+went<!--420.png--><span class="pagenum">413</span>
+mad with rapture and fled into the forest.
+Three days were spent in searching for him, but he was never seen more.</p>
+
+<p>Relinquishing his boat and all unnecessary equipage at the cataract
+of Isangila, the party struck for Boma, but only to give out entirely
+when still three days distant. A messenger was sent in advance for aid.
+He came back in two days with a strong band of carriers and abundance
+of food. The perishing party was thus saved, and was soon receiving
+the care of the good people of Boma. Here all forgot their toils and
+perils amid civilized comforts and the pardonable pride aroused by their
+achievements. Stanley’s exploit is unparalleled in the history of African
+adventure. Though not the first to cross the Continent, he hewed an
+unknown way and every step was a startling revelation. He did more to
+unravel African mysteries and settle geographic problems than any other
+explorer.</p>
+
+<p>And, August 12, 1877, three years after his start from Zanzibar on the
+Indian Ocean, and eight months after setting out from Nyangwe to follow
+the Lualaba, he stood on the Atlantic shores at Boma and gazed on the
+mouth of the Congo, whose waters shot an unmixed current fifty miles out
+to sea. Though he had proved it to be so, he could still hardly believe
+that this vast flood pouring 2,000,000 cubic feet of water a second into
+the ocean, through a channel ten miles wide and 1300 feet deep, was the
+same that he had followed through wood and morass, rapid and cataract,
+rock bound channel and wide expanse, for so long a time, and that it was
+the same which Diego Cam discovered by its color and reedy track four
+hundred years before, while sailing the ocean out of sight of land.</p>
+
+<p>In the journey of 7200 miles, one hundred and fourteen of Stanley’s
+original party had perished. Many had fallen in battle or by treachery,
+more were the victims of disease, and some had succumbed to toil or been
+“washed down by the gulfs.” But a goodly remnant survived. These were
+returned, according to contract, to their Zanzibar home. Stanley went
+with them by steamer around the Cape of Good Hope.</p>
+
+<p>It needs not to tell the joy with which the people again beheld their
+home; how they leaped ashore from the boat;
+how<!--421.png--><span class="pagenum">414</span>
+their friends rushed
+down to the beach to welcome back the wanderers; how wives and husbands,
+children and parents, “literally leaped into each other’s arms,” while
+“with weeping and with laughter” the wonderful story of the long and
+terrible journey is told to the eager listeners.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley, having paid his followers in full, according to the terms of his
+contract, and rewarded some over and above their lawful claims, so that
+not a few of the men were able to purchase neat little houses and gardens
+with their savings, prepared to quit Zanzibar forever.</p>
+
+<p>The scene on the beach on the day of Stanley’s departure was a strange
+and an affecting one. The people of the expedition pressed eagerly around
+him, wrung his hand again and again, and finally, lifting him upon their
+shoulders, carried him through the surf to his boat. Then the men, headed
+by Uledi the coxswain, manned a lighter and followed Mr. Stanley’s boat
+to the steamer, and there bade their leader a last farewell.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley’s own feelings at this moment were no less keen. As the steamer
+which bore him home left the shore of Zanzibar behind, his thoughts
+were busy with the past; he was living once again in retrospect the
+three strange, eventful years, during which these simple black people
+had followed him with a fidelity at once simple and noble, childlike
+and heroic. For him, his comrades in travel through the Dark Continent
+must ever remain heroes; for it was their obedient and loyal aid that
+had enabled him to bring his expedition to a successful and noble issue,
+to accomplish each of the three tasks he had set himself to do,&mdash;the
+exploration of the great Victoria Nyanza Lake, the circumnavigation of
+Tanganyika, and the identification of Livingstone’s Lualaba River with
+the Congo.</p>
+
+<p>Ever since this memorable journey, Mr. Stanley has been enthusiastically
+working to found a great Congo free Government and commercial empire,
+which all the nations shall recognize and to which all shall contribute.
+He has projected a steamer system, of heavy draught vessels, from the
+mouth of the river to the first cataracts. Here a commercial emporium
+is to be founded. A railway is to start thence and lead to
+the<!--422.png--><span class="pagenum">415</span>
+smooth
+waters above. This would open 7000 miles of navigable waters on the Upper
+Congo and a trade of $50,000,000 a year. It would redeem one of the
+largest fertile tracts of land on the globe and bring peace, prosperity
+and civilization to millions of human beings. Only climate seems to be
+against his plans, for it is undoubtedly hostile to Europeans. But if
+native energies can be enlisted sufficiently to make a permanent ground
+work for his ideal state, he may yet rank not only as the greatest of
+discoverers but as the foremost of statesmen and humanitarians. The
+possibilities of the Congo region are boundless.</p>
+
+<p>A missionary just returned from the Congo country thus writes of it:</p>
+
+<p>“The bounds of this ‘Congo Free State’ are not yet defined, but they will
+ultimately embrace the main stream and its immense system of navigable
+tributaries, some of which are 800 miles long. The Congo itself waters a
+country more than 900 miles square, or an area of 1,000,000 square miles.
+These rivers make access to Equatorial Africa and to the Soudan country
+quite easy.</p>
+
+<p>“The resources of this fine region are exhaustless. The forests are dense
+and valuable. Their rubber wealth is untouched, and equal to the world’s
+supply. Everywhere there is a vast amount of ivory, which lies unused or
+is turned into the commonest utensils by the natives. There are palms
+which yield oil, plantains, bananas, maize, tobacco, peanuts, yams, wild
+coffee, and soil equal to any in the world for fertility. Europeans
+must guard against the climate, but it is possible to get enured to it,
+with care. In the day-time the temperature averages 90&deg; the year round,
+but the average of the night temperature is 70&deg; to 75&deg;. Rain falls
+frequently, and mostly in the night. The natives are hostile, only where
+they have suffered from invasion by Arab slave dealers.</p>
+
+<p>“Already there are some 3000 white settlers in the heart of the Congo
+country&mdash;Portuguese, English, Belgians, Dutch, Scandinavians and
+Americans, and their influence is being felt for good. The completion of
+Stanley’s railroad around the Congo rapids will give fresh impetus to
+civilization and lay the basis of permanent institutions in this great
+country.”</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><!--423.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_416" id="Page_416">416</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>
+THE CAPE OF STORMS.
+</h2>
+
+<p>The little Portuguese ship of Bartholomew Diaz was the first to round the
+“Cape of Storms” in 1486. When King John II. of Portugal, heard of his
+success he said it should thereafter be called Cape of Good Hope. The
+passage of this southermost point of Africa meant a route to India, on
+which all hearts were set at the time.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly two hundred years later, in 1652, the Dutch settled at the Cape.
+They called the Quaique, or natives, Hottentots&mdash;from the repetition of
+one of the words used in their dances.</p>
+
+<p>The Colony became a favorite place for banished Huguenots&mdash;from France
+and Peidmont. It grew, got to be strong, and at length tyrannical. The
+more liberal members left it and pushed into the interior, where they
+drove back the Kaffirs, and redeemed much valuable territory. The parent
+Colony tried to force its government on these pioneers, who were called
+“Boers”&mdash;the Dutch word for “farmers.” A rebellion ensued. The Prince of
+Orange asked England to help suppress it (1795). She did so, and with
+characteristic greed, kept it till 1803. It then passed to the Dutch, but
+was retaken by England in 1806.</p>
+
+<p>Settlement marched rapidly up the eastern coast of Africa, and a great
+agricultural section was opened. The Kaffir tribes protested and five
+fierce wars were fought, with the loss of all Kaffraria to the natives.
+The Boers were never reconciled to British authority. They murmured,
+rebelled, and kept migrating northward, till north of the Orange River
+they founded the Natal, the Orange Free State, and the Transvaal Republic.</p>
+
+<p>The high promontory of Cape of Good Hope&mdash;Table Mountain&mdash;is visible a
+long distance from the sea, owing to the dry, light atmosphere. On its
+spurs are many ruins of block-houses, used by the early settlers. Over
+it, at times, hangs a veil of cloud, called the “Table Cloth,” which,
+when dispersed by the sun, the inhabitants say is put away for future
+use.</p>
+
+<p><!--424.png--><span class="pagenum">417</span></p>
+
+<p>The town of Cape Colony, or Cape Town, is now perfectly modern, and very
+pretty. It was here that the great missionary Robert Moffat began his
+African career in 1816; here that Pringle started to found his ideal town
+Glen Lynden.</p>
+
+<p>In 1867 all Cape Colony was thrown into excitement by the discovery
+that diamond fields existed inland near the Kalihari Desert. There was
+a rush like that in our own country in 1849 when gold was discovered in
+California. Exaggerated stories of finds of diamonds by natives, valued
+at $50,000 a piece, were eagerly listened to, and in a few weeks there
+was a population of 10,000 in a hitherto unknown region, with the road
+thither, for hundreds of miles, literally alive with wagons, oxen, pack
+mules and footmen.</p>
+
+<p>The diamond territory is Griqualand, on the headwaters of the Orange and
+Vaal Rivers and close to the desert&mdash;partly in it. The region is 16,000
+square miles in extent and 3000 feet above the ocean. In the diamond
+fields the diamonds are found in the sand by washing. This is the native
+method of getting them, and also that adopted by thousands of people who
+have no capital.</p>
+
+<p>But it was soon found that they could be had in larger numbers and of
+greater size and purity by digging. This brought capital, machinery, and
+regular mining tracts, called “Claims.”</p>
+
+<p>At first the mining towns were made up of tents, filled with a mixed
+people, toiling willingly all day, and dancing, gambling, drinking and
+rioting at night. At one time there were 60,000 persons in these diamond
+fields, but now not more than 40,000.</p>
+
+<p>The Kimberley mine is the favorite. It has been excavated to a depth of
+250 feet and has proved very rich. It is now surrounded by quite a town,
+and the people&mdash;mostly native diggers&mdash;are orderly and industrious. The
+diggers delve with spade and pick in the deep recesses of the mine, and
+the sand, rock and earth are pulled to the surface in buckets, where they
+are sorted, sieved, and closely examined for diamonds.</p>
+
+<p>Formerly the “claims” sold for fabulous prices. Many, only thirty by
+sixteen feet, brought $100,000. And some rare
+finds<!--425.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_418" id="Page_418">418</a></span>
+have been made.
+The great diamond, found a few years ago, and called the “Star of South
+Africa,” was sold, before cutting, for $55,000. And while we are writing,
+one is undergoing the process of cutting in Paris which is a true
+wonder. It arrived from South Africa in August, 1884, and was purchased
+by a syndicate of London and Paris diamond merchants. It weighs in the
+rough 457 carats and will dress to 200 carats. The great Koh-i-noor,
+weighs only 106 carats, the Regent of France 136<sup>3</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub> carats, the Star of
+South Africa 125 carats, the Piggott 82<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub> carats, and the Great Mogul
+279 carats. But the latter is a lumpy stone, and if dressed to proper
+proportions, would not weigh over 140 carats.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_418.jpg" width="600" height="484"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ZULUS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Kaffraria country, lying between Cape Colony and Natal, is rich in
+beautiful scenery and abounds in animal life.
+While<!--426.png--><span class="pagenum">419</span>
+the larger animals,
+as the elephant and lion, have retreated inland, there are still many
+beasts of prey, and the forests have not given over their troops of
+chattering baboons. Its greatest scourge is periodical visits of immense
+flights of locusts, which destroy all vegetation wherever they light. The
+natives make them into cakes and consider them a great delicacy. These
+natives are a brave, fine people, and have been conquered and held with
+difficulty. As they yield to civilization they make an industrious and
+attractive society.</p>
+
+<p>Natal was so named, in honor of our Saviour, more than 300 years ago by
+Vasco de Gama. It was the centre of the Zulu tribes, whom King Charka
+formed into an all-conquering army, until the invasion of the country by
+the Boers. It became a British colony in 1843, and has been held with the
+greatest difficulty, for the Zulu warriors showed a bravery and method in
+their warfare which made them formidable enemies even against forces with
+superior arms and discipline. It was in the English wars with the Zulus
+that the Prince Imperial, of France, lost his life. A writer describes
+the Zulus “as a race of the most handsome and manly people found among
+savages; tall, muscular, and of remarkable symmetry, beauty and strength.
+Their carriage is upright, and among the chiefs, majestic.”</p>
+
+<p>The Drackenberg Mountains, many of whose peaks are 10,000 feet high,
+shut off Natal from the Transvaal Republic. This Transvaal region was,
+as already seen, redeemed from the natives by the Boers, who are mostly
+devoted to farming, but many to a pastoral life like that of the old
+patriarchs, living in wagons or tents and leading, or rather following,
+about immense herds of cattle and sheep. They are a hardy, strong, brave
+people, and in subduing them and annexing their beautiful and fertile
+country, it is very doubtful whether Great Britain has done herself
+credit or humanity benefit. Boers may not be all that modern civilization
+could desire. In their contact with the natives they may have retrograded
+to a certain extent. But it is very probable they have made larger
+and more beneficial conquests over nature than any other more highly
+endowed and uncompromising people could have done in the same length
+of time. There is
+hardly<!--427.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_420" id="Page_420">420</a></span>
+a product of the soil that does not grow in
+the Transvaal&mdash;corn, tobacco, apricots, figs, oranges, peaches&mdash;two and
+sometimes three crops a year. It is finely watered with noble mountain
+streams, and is rich in iron, tin, copper, lead, coal and gold. The
+capital, Pretoria, is the centre of a rich trade in ostrich feathers.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_420.jpg" width="600" height="599"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">MY CATTLE WERE SAVED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Ostrich farming is a large industry in these South African States.
+Farmers buy and sell these animals like cattle. They fence them in,
+stable them, tend them, grow crops for them, study their habits, and cut
+their precious feathers, all as
+a<!--428.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_421" id="Page_421">421</a></span>
+matter of strict business. The animals
+begin to yield feathers at eight months old, and each year they grow more
+valuable. They are nipped or cut off, not plucked. The ostrich feather
+trade of South Africa is of the value of $1,000,000 a year. The birds
+are innocent and stupid looking, but can attack with great ferocity,
+and strike very powerfully with their feet. The only safe posture under
+attack by them is to lie down. They then can only trample on you.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_421.jpg" width="600" height="488"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">BUFFALO HUNTERS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Transvaal region is a paradise for hunters. The elephant, rhinoceros,
+hippopotamus, buffalo, giraffe, zebra, springbok, gnu, lion, and indeed
+every African animal, finds a home amid its deep woody recesses and
+sparkling waters. As he entered its borders from the desert, Pinto’s
+camp was attacked by two lions, who scented his desert pony and herd
+of cattle.
+The<!--429.png--><span class="pagenum">422</span>
+natives became demoralized, and Pinto himself could do
+little toward saving his property on account of the darkness. Fortunately
+he got his hand on a dark lantern, in which was a splendid calcium light.
+Placing this in the hand of a native, he ordered him to go as near to the
+growling intruders as was safe, Pinto following with a double-barreled
+rifle. The glare of the light was then turned full in the faces of the
+beasts. They were dazed by it, and cowered for a moment. That moment
+was fatal. Pinto gave both a mortal wound and saved his cattle. And it
+was here that Cummings lost one of his guides, who was pounced upon by
+a lion as he lay asleep before a camp fire. Here also Lieutenant Moodie
+and his party got the ill-will of a herd of elephants, which charged upon
+them and gave furious chase, knocking the Lieutenant down and tramping
+him nearly to death. One of his companions was killed outright by the
+charging beasts and his body tossed angrily into the jungle with their
+tusks.</p>
+
+<p>But the finest sport is hunting the buffalo. He is stealthy, cunning and
+swift. It requires a long shot or a quick ingenious chase to bag him.
+He never knows when he is beaten and will continue to charge and fight
+though riddled with bullets or pierced with many lances. Gillmore was
+once intent on an elephant track when suddenly his party was charged by
+five buffaloes. His horse saved him by a tremendous leap to one side, but
+one of his attendants was tossed ten feet in the air, and another landed
+amid the branches of a tree, one of which he fortunately caught.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><!--430.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_423" id="Page_423">423</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>
+NYASSALAND.
+</h2>
+
+<p>Threats of war between England and Portugal bring into prominence that
+portion of Central Africa which is embraced in the title “Nyassaland.”
+While ordinarily it might be embraced in the Zambesi system, it is a land
+quite by itself, especially as to its topography and the position it
+occupies in the commercial and political world, and is in many respects
+the most interesting part of East Central Africa. It is a back-ground to
+Portugal’s Mozambique possessions, but at the same time the very heart
+of the British effort to cut a magnificent water way inland from the
+mouths of the Zambesi to the mouths of the Nile. Hence the conflict of
+interest there, a conflict which must go on by arbitration or by war,
+till Great Britain secures what she wants&mdash;control of the Shir&eacute; river and
+Lake Nyassa. The navigation of the Lower Zambesi is already open to all
+nations.</p>
+
+<p>The river Shir&eacute;, which we are now about to ascend, falls into the Zambesi
+from the left, only some ninety miles from its mouth. Twenty years ago
+its course was unknown, and its banks were wildernesses untrodden by
+the foot of a white man. Now the stream is one of the best-known and
+most frequented of the highways to the Lake Regions. The Shir&eacute; is much
+narrower than the Zambesi, but of deeper channel, and in the upper and
+lower portions more easily ascended by steamers. Midway in its course,
+however, we meet a great impediment to the navigation of the river,
+and consequently to the civilization and commercial development of the
+regions beyond. In thirty-five miles the stream descends twelve hundred
+feet in a series of rapids and cataracts over a rock-encumbered bed and
+between sheer walls of cliff.</p>
+
+<p>Beauty and use are badly adjusted on the Shir&eacute;. The scenery of the
+unnavigable portion of the river is full of singular and
+romantic<!--431.png--><span class="pagenum">424</span>
+beauty. In the picturesque diversity of its charms of crag and forest
+and rushing water it is scarcely equalled by any other part of Africa.
+Monotony, on the other hand, has set its stamp on the banks of the
+useful, slow-flowing river beneath and above. Yet the ascent of one
+hundred and fifty miles from the Zambesi to the cataracts is not without
+its attractions. The landscape is intensely and characteristically
+African. If the river is fringed on either shore by tall and sombre
+reeds, the majestic mountains that bound the Shir&eacute; valley are always in
+sight. A dense tropical vegetation covers these hills to the very tops,
+except that patches of lighter tint show where the hands of the natives
+have cleared the ground for the cultivation of crops of cotton, sorghum,
+or maize; for these healthy uplands, above the reach of the mosquito and
+the deadly marsh fog, and safe also, in some degree, from the ravages
+of the kidnapper, are inhabited by an industrious race, the Manganjas,
+who have made no small progress in agriculture and native iron and metal
+manufactures.</p>
+
+<p>This whole country is favorable for the raising of cotton, which here
+grows a larger and finer staple, it is said, even than in Egypt. Every
+Manganja village has its cotton patch, where sufficient is grown for the
+use riot only of the community but of neighboring tribes. The demand
+certainly is not large, the requirements of Africans in the matter of
+clothing being modest&mdash;or immodest, if you will. There is a tribe, for
+instance, on the Lower Zambesi, whose name, being interpreted, means the
+“Go-Nakeds.” The full costume of a “Go-Naked” is a coat&mdash;of red ochre.
+Livingstone met one of their men of rank once, and found his court suit
+represented by a few beads and a pipe two feet long. Unfortunately
+the Manganja, along with their ingenuity and industry as weavers,
+blacksmiths, and farmers, are inordinately fond of beer and smoking, and
+are great in the arts of brewing and tobacco-manufacturing. With all
+these disadvantages, however, it is pleasant to find, in one corner at
+least of Africa, a race with both the skill and the inclination to work,
+and a native industry ready to spring up into large proportions so soon
+as it receives a little encouragement.</p>
+
+<p>After the Zambesi has been left behind, a great mountain called
+Morumbala, four thousand feet in height, bounds for many miles
+the<!--432.png--><span class="pagenum">425</span>
+view
+on the right as we ascend the Shir&eacute;. Beyond it we reach one of the
+marshes or old lake-beds which form one of the features of this valley.
+The bounding lines of hills make each a semicircular curve, and inclose
+a vast morass, through the centre of which the river drains slowly
+between dripping walls of sedge and mud. No human inhabitant can dwell
+in these impenetrable swamps; but they are far from empty of life. Great
+flights of wild geese, ducks, waders, and other water-fowl abound here in
+prodigious numbers, and rise from the brake at the noise of the passing
+boat or steamer&mdash;for already steamers now ply on the waters of the river
+below and the great lake above.</p>
+
+<p>The discovery of the lake was due to Livingstone who had heard of
+the “Great Water” somewhere to the north of the Zambesi and far amid
+the mountains of the Shir&eacute;. His first attempt to reach it was a
+failure, through reticence of the people respecting it and the natural
+difficulties he encountered. But his worst enemy was his guide who misled
+him until all were completely lost. The party were in a desperate strait.
+Suspicion of treachery filled every bosom except Livingstone’s. One of
+his faithful Makololos came up to him, and remarked, in a matter-of-fact
+way, “That fellow is taking us into mischief. My spear is sharp. There is
+no one here. Shall I cast him into the long grass?” A gesture of assent,
+or even silence, and the unlucky guide would have been run through the
+body; but Livingstone was not the man to permit blood to be spilt, even
+on an apparently well-grounded suspicion of treachery. After all, it
+turned out to be merely a blunder, and no treachery. The party were led
+safely to the margin of the “great lake” of the district&mdash;the elephant
+marsh that they had passed some time before while ascending the river!</p>
+
+<p>The second trip resulted in a discovery of an inland sea, though not
+the one they were in search of. Climbing over the shoulder of the high
+mountains east of the Shir&eacute;, the party came in sight of Lake Shirwa,
+lying in an isolated, pear-shaped basin, nearly two thousand feet above
+sea-level. Magnificent mountain scenery surrounds the lake, the waters
+of which, contrary to the rule in Central Africa, are salt, or rather
+brackish. Although the area of Shirwa is large, it is but a mill-pond
+compared with Nyassa and some
+of<!--433.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_426" id="Page_426">426</a></span>
+the other African lakes. Yet, girt in
+though it is with hills, it shows to one standing near its southern end
+a boundless sea-horizon towards the north. Opposite on the eastern shore
+a lofty range rises to a height of eight thousand feet above sea-level,
+while behind, the table-topped Mount Zomba, only one thousand feet lower,
+dominates the Shir&eacute; valley.</p>
+
+<p>All this mountainous mass seems habitable, and, in fact, is inhabited
+to its very summits; and its temperate climate, healthful breezes, and
+freedom from malaria and mosquitoes, have led to its being chosen as
+the site of the Church of Scotland mission to the Nyassa country&mdash;their
+station, Blantyre, being named after the Scottish village where
+Livingstone first saw the light.</p>
+
+<p>In ascending to the Nyassa, the opposite or western side of the Shir&eacute; is
+generally chosen, and travellers prefer to make a wide d&eacute;tour into the
+healthy Manganja uplands to struggling through the rocky, broken, and
+wooded country through which the river tears its impetuous way. It is
+delightful to breathe the bracing air of these high plains after escaping
+from the humid, stifling atmosphere of the valley. The change of scenery
+and climate puts a new life into the veins of the traveller. Many novel
+views of African life come under his notice among the Manganja highlands.
+The path up the long ascent is toilsome, but the eye is cheered by the
+glorious views of the deep valley lying below and the blue domes and
+peaks that rise ahead. The country is open and park-like, full of grand
+forest trees and flowing streams.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_427.jpg" width="600" height="399"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">VILLAGE SCENE ON LAKE NYASSA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the evening we halt at a Manganja village and receive a
+hearty&mdash;perhaps an uproarious&mdash;welcome. The villages are surrounded by
+thick-set hedges of the poisonous euphorbia; and however busy at work
+or at feasting the inhabitants are inside, a guard is always kept on
+vigilant watch at the entrance, to give warning if a foraging band of
+Mazitu heave in sight in the mountains, or the white robes of a party of
+Arab slave-hunters are seen ascending the valley. When it is known that
+it is friends who are approaching, the villagers are not long in making
+amends for the shyness of their first greetings. Mats of reeds and bamboo
+are spread for the wayfarers under the shade of the banian tree at the
+“boalo,” an open space for the public entertainment of strangers at one
+end of
+the<!--435.png--><span class="pagenum">428</span>
+village, the favorite spot for lounging and smoking, and
+where on moonlight nights the young people indulge in singing and dancing
+and their elders in hard drinking bouts. The whole community troop out
+to see the white visitors, who are regarded with just such a mixture
+of curiosity and fear as a company of Red Indians would be looked upon
+by English rustics. Presents are exchanged with the chief, and then a
+brisk trade sets in, the villagers bartering food and articles of native
+manufacture for beads, looking-glasses, cloth, and other surprising
+products of Europe. Generally there follow dancing, pombe-drinking, and
+serenading in honor of the visitor, a homage which the latter is often
+glad to escape from by strolling out for a night-hunt for elephant
+or other game, or to note down by the clear light of the moon his
+observations for the day.</p>
+
+<p>Soon it is time to descend into the valley, where the Shir&eacute; is found
+again flowing deep and slow, as below the falls, and opening up into
+a marshy lakelet, Pamalombe, with a strong family resemblance to the
+swamps of the lower river. It ought to be recorded, in justice to African
+honesty, that when the <i>Ilala</i>, the first steamer that floated on the
+Nyassa, was conveyed in pieces from the Lower to the Upper Shir&eacute; by a
+band of some hundreds of porters, under Captain Young’s leadership, it
+was found, on putting the little craft together, that not a single bolt
+or screw had been mislaid or stolen, though the temptation to fling away
+or decamp with their burdens must have sorely tried the carriers.</p>
+
+<p>Even when almost within sight of the Nyassa. Livingstone could hear
+nothing of the goal of which he was in search. The chief of the “Great
+Lake” village on the Shir&eacute; told him that the river stretched on for
+“two months’ journey,” and then emerged from two rocks that towered
+perpendicularly to the skies. “We shall go and see these wonderful
+rocks,” said the doctor. “And when you see them,” objected his Makololo
+companions, “you will just want to see something else.” Next day they
+continued their march, and before noon came in sight of the lake.</p>
+
+<p>Like the Tanganyika and Albert Lakes, Nyassa is a long and comparatively
+narrow body of water lying in a deep depression of the plateau of Central
+Africa. From the outlet of the Shir&eacute; one can sail on its waters for
+more than three hundred miles
+towards<!--436.png--><span class="pagenum">429</span>
+the equator; but it is nowhere
+more than sixty miles in width, and in some places less than half that
+distance across. It resembles the more northerly lakes, the Albert Nyanza
+and the Tanganyika, but especially the latter, in its general shape and
+direction; and it was for many years a favorite theory with “closet
+geographers” that the three lakes formed one continuous sheet of water.
+Such an attenuated “river-sea,” fifteen hundred miles in length and with
+no breadth to speak of, would have been a new thing in nature, and would,
+besides, have been an extremely useful factor in opening up Africa.
+Unfortunately, like other pretty theories, it did not stand the test of
+actual examination; and we have seen that the three lakes form parts of
+three different though not disconnected systems.</p>
+
+<p>The shores of Nyassa seem to be overhung on all sides by tall mountains,
+although near the southern end there is generally a margin of more
+level country between the bases of the hills and the lake. As we
+proceed northwards, the distinctive features of the lake shores become
+more pronounced and majestic. The strip of plain narrows until it
+disappears. The range increases in altitude and approaches nearer, the
+rocky buttresses spring directly from the water, and the torrents that
+rush down their sides plunge in cascades into the lake; and the extreme
+northern end is encircled by dark mountains, whose frowning tops are
+ten thousand feet or more above sea-level. But when we ascend from the
+sweltering western margin of the lake to the cool and breezy heights that
+look down on it, we find that instead of being on the summit of a range
+of mountains we are only on the edge of a wide table-land. There is no
+steep slope corresponding to that which we have ascended so toilsomely,
+only a gentle incline towards the Zambesi.</p>
+
+<p>On his last great expedition to Africa, Dr. Livingstone passed round
+the southern end of the lake, and, ascending the table-land, traced the
+water-shed between the lake and the streams flowing to the westward,
+until he descended into the valley of the Chambesi, and began that
+investigation of the Congo which is hereafter more fully described. The
+contour of the country reminded him strongly of that of Southern India.
+There was the flat country covered with thick jungle and tiger-grass,
+succeeded by dense forest, gradually thinning away to clumps of
+evergreens as
+the<!--437.png--><span class="pagenum">430</span>
+higher levels are reached, the scattered masses
+of boulders, the deeply-trenched “nullahs” or water-courses, and all
+the other familiar features of the fine scenery of the Ghauts, while
+the tableland above resembled closely the high plains of the Deccan.
+But what a contrast in the social and industrial condition of the two
+countries! Instead of seeing at every step, as in India, the traces of a
+long-founded civilization and a race of industrious tillers of the soil
+dwelling in peace and security under the strong arm of the law, we meet
+only with anarchy, misery, and barbarism.</p>
+
+<p>The whole of this region is a hunting-ground of the Mazitu or Mavitu
+Zulus, whose only business is war and pillage. The wretched inhabitants
+of these hills dwell in constant apprehension of their raids. On no
+night can they sleep even within the shelter of their well-guarded
+stockades with the assurance that the Mavitu will not be upon them ere
+morning. Originally weak in numbers, this tribe has gathered strength
+by amalgamating with themselves the clans they have conquered. The
+terror which their deeds have inspired has been heightened by their
+wild and fantastic dress and gestures as they advance to battle, and by
+their formidable weapons. They carry the long Zulu shield and both the
+flinging and the stabbing assegai. Their hair is plumed with feathers,
+and their bodies painted in fiendish devices with red and white clay.
+So abject is the fear entertained for these redoubtable champions among
+the surrounding tribes, that the mere mention of their name is enough to
+make a travelling party take to their heels. Livingstone found this a
+constant source of annoyance and delay. Twice it was the cause of reports
+of his death being brought home. On the last occasion, the Johanna
+men&mdash;natives of the Comoro Isles&mdash;who formed his escort, were seized with
+the infectious panic, and, abandoning him in a body, brought down to the
+coast the story of the explorer having been murdered in the interior. The
+falsity of their report was only ascertained after Mr. Edward Young had
+made a special expedition to the Nyassa, and learned on the spot that the
+intrepid missionary, in spite of the cowardly desertion of his followers,
+was safe and well, and still pushing forward towards his goal.</p>
+
+<p>In one respect, if in no other, the Zulu “Rob Roys” of these hills have
+a feeling in common with the travellers and missionaries
+who<!--438.png--><span class="pagenum">431</span>
+have found
+their way to the Nyassa countries&mdash;they are the inveterate enemies of
+the slave-hunters, and will not permit these gentry to practice the
+arts of kidnapping and murder within reach of their spears. The eastern
+side of the Nyassa basin, on the other hand, is one of the principal
+scenes of the slave-traders’ operations. In conjunction with predatory
+negro tribes, such as the Ajawa on the left bank of the Shir&eacute;, they have
+made a wilderness of all the country between the Nyassa and the Indian
+Ocean. Nothing can exceed the waste and havoc they have wrought in this
+beautiful and fruitful land. The books of the explorers are full of
+details of almost incredible atrocities committed under their eyes, and
+which they were powerless to prevent. Whole populations have been swept
+into the slave-gangs and hurried down to the coast, leaving the country
+behind them a desert, and their path marked by the skeletons of those who
+have succumbed to exhaustion or the cruelty of their brutal drivers. The
+miserable remnant of the population roost in trees, or seek shelter in
+the deepest recesses of the forest: while the jungle overruns the fields
+of maize, cotton, manioc, and sorghum and the charred ruins of their
+villages.</p>
+
+<p>In Livingstone’s Journals we come upon such entries as: “Passed a slave
+woman shot or stabbed through the body; a group, looking on, said an
+Arab had done it that morning in anger at losing the price he had given
+for her, because she was unable to walk.” “Found a number of slaves
+with slave sticks (logs six feet long with a cleft at one end in which
+the head of the unfortunate is fastened) abandoned by their master from
+want of food; they were too weak to speak or say where they had come
+from.” “It was wearisome to see the skulls and bones scattered about
+everywhere; one would fain not notice them, but they are so striking
+as one trudges along the sultry path that it cannot be avoided.” This
+evidence is abundantly supported by the statements of other observers.
+Consul Elton describes passing a caravan of three hundred slaves from
+the Nyassa, while travelling through the clove and gum-copal forests on
+the Mozambique coast. “All,” he says, “were in wretched condition. One
+gang of lads and women, chained together with iron neck-rings, was in
+a horrible state, their lower extremities coated with dry mud and torn
+with thorns,
+their<!--439.png--><span class="pagenum">432</span>
+bodies mere frameworks, and their skeleton limbs
+slightly stretched-over with parchment-like skin. One wretched woman
+had been flung against a tree for slipping her rope, and came screaming
+to us for protection, with one eye half out, and her face and bosom
+streaming with blood. We washed her wounds, and that was the only piece
+of interference on our part with the caravan, although the temptation was
+strong to cast all adrift, and give them at any rate a chance of starving
+to death peaceably in the woods.” Can it be wondered at that the pioneers
+of civilization and Christianity in these regions have sometimes been
+carried away by their feelings, and at the risk of ruining their whole
+plans have forcibly interfered between these Arab miscreants and their
+victims?</p>
+
+<p>During the period to which Consul Elton’s accounts apply, it was computed
+that the Lake Nyassa region supplied some fifteen thousand slaves
+annually to the markets of Kilwa and other coast towns. Dr. Livingstone
+is convinced from his own observations, that, so far as regards the Shir&eacute;
+country, not a tenth of those who are captured survive the horrors of the
+land journey. It may be wondered how this waste of human life can go on
+and the country not to be completely depopulated. In spite, however, of
+their terrible losses, there is still a large population settled on the
+Nyassa. They have been chased down from the hills by the Mavitu and the
+slaver, and are huddled together on the lake margin, where their enemies
+can swoop down and make them an easy prey.</p>
+
+<p>This dense population is, however, only found towards the southern end
+of Nyassa. Further north, the Mavitu have taken possession of the shore
+as well as the hills, and practice with equal success the vocation of
+pirates on the water and of robbers on land. An expedition in this
+direction was, till lately, certain to be attended with no small
+excitement and clanger. If the journey were made by land, the travellers
+were liable to be surprised at some point where the road was more rocky
+and difficult than usual, by the apparition of a wild-looking crew
+starting up from behind boulder or tree, and advancing with brandished
+spears and unearthly yells. White explorers are not accustomed to turn
+and flee at the first alarm. They stand, quietly awaiting the attack;
+and the Mavitu disconcerted at conduct so utterly unlike what they had
+calculated<!--441.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_434" id="Page_434">434</a></span>
+upon, run away themselves instead. If the excursion is made
+by water, a crowd of boats, pulled by swift rowers, will perhaps be seen
+putting out from a secluded bight, or from behind a wooded promontory,
+and giving chase to the strangers, with loud outcries to stop. The
+navigators of this inland sea, however, are missionaries, merchants and
+men of peace. They have no desire to do harm to their savage pursuers,
+and, secure in the speed of their little steamer and the superior range
+of their guns, they can afford to laugh at the attempts to capture them.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_433.jpg" width="600" height="361"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">STORM ON LAKE NYASSA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Much more serious is the danger arising from the sudden and furious
+storms that sweep down upon the lake from the gullies of its encircling
+hills. Livingstone narrowly escaped shipwreck on its waters, and from his
+experiences of it proposed to have Nyassa named the “Lake of Storms.”
+An old seaman of his party, who had been over the world, and at home
+had spent many a squally night off the wild coasts of Connaught and
+Donegal, said he had never encountered such waves as were raised in a
+few minutes by the tornadoes on the Nyassa. Succeeding voyagers&mdash;Young,
+Elton, Cotterill, Drs. Laws and Stewart, of the Scottish missions&mdash;report
+similar experiences. Mr. Cotterill’s little craft, the <i>Herya</i>, a present
+from the Harrow boys, was driven ashore on the western coast, June
+1877, and he lost his journals, goods, and medical stores, saving only
+one bottle of quinine, which, remembering the fate of Livingstone and
+Mackenzie, he threw ashore as he neared the breakers in the darkness. The
+most dreaded waves on the Nyassa come rolling on in threes, “with their
+crests,” says Livingstone, “streaming in spray behind them.” A short lull
+follows each charge; and then another white-maned trio come rushing on
+and threaten to ingulf the voyagers and their frail bark.</p>
+
+<p>A curious natural phenomenon has been noticed by most observers on the
+Nyassa. A light blue cloud will be observed floating for many miles over
+the surface of the lake, like the trailing smoke of some distant fire.
+When it is reached, we discover that it consists of nothing else but
+myriads of insects, of a species peculiar to the region, and known as
+the “kungo fly.” So dense is the mass that immense quantities of them
+are caught by the natives and pounded into cakes, resembling in size
+and shape a “Tam
+o’Shanter”<!--442.png--><span class="pagenum">435</span>
+bonnet. They are not particular as to what
+they eat, these hunger-bitten natives of the Nyassa shores. Neither are
+they unreasonably extravagant in the matter of dress, some of the tribes
+absolutely dispensing with clothes. Their notion of making up for their
+scanty attire by liberally anointing their bodies with rancid fish oil
+and hippopotamus fat, and smearing themselves with fancy designs in red
+and white clay, does not recommend them to the European eye and nostril.
+From our point of view, too, their attempts at decoration by means of
+tattooing are in nowise improvements, the result being to give their
+faces and limbs the appearance of being thickly studded with pimples.
+The most hideous device of all, however, is the “pelele,” or lip ring,
+an ornament without which no Nyassa belle would dream of appearing in
+public. This consists of a broad ring of tin or stone, an inch or more
+in diameter, inserted by slow degrees into the upper lip, causing it
+to stand out at right angles to its natural direction, and revealing
+beneath the rows of teeth sharpened to fine points like those of a saw.
+The native ladies of rank sometimes have a corresponding ring in the
+under lip, with the result that while the wearers of the single “pelele”
+can only lisp, the ladies of fashion are scarcely able to speak at all.
+Considering that these poor people have not been lavishly endowed with
+natural charms, the effect of their duck-like mouths may be imagined.
+Some handsome faces may, however, be seen among the natives of the
+Nyassa, and many of them, it has been observed, have regular Jewish
+or Assyrian features. Dr. Livingstone saw one man who bore a striking
+resemblance to a distinguished London actor in the part of the “Moor of
+Venice,” while another was the exact counterpart, in black, of the late
+Lord Clyde.</p>
+
+<p>The magnificent alpine country at the north end of the lake is, as yet,
+comparatively unknown. The sole spot where there is any level ground is a
+great elephant marsh. Here Elton and his companions counted no fewer than
+three hundred of these noble animals standing knee-deep in the swamp,
+the elders lazily swinging their trunks and fanning themselves with
+their huge ears; while the juniors of the herd disported themselves in
+their elephantine
+way,<!--443.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_436" id="Page_436">436</a></span>
+rolling luxuriously in the mud, or tearing down
+branches of trees in the riotous enjoyment of their enormous strength.</p>
+
+<p>Elton’s party enjoyed several days of most exciting elephant-stalking
+in the neighboring hills. Sallying out one morning into a part of the
+forest where the great brutes were known to abound, the herd was at
+length sighted; two or three of the elephants dozing under the shade
+of some trees, others engaged in munching branches, or shaking the
+boughs and picking up one by one with their trunks the berries that were
+scattered below. They were soon aroused from this delightful Elysium of
+rest and enjoyment by the hunters, who had crept up to within ten or
+fifteen yards unseen. Singling out the biggest elephant, a huge tusker,
+who stood blinking contemplatively under the shadow of a tree, Elton and
+his companion, Mr. Rhodes, each planted a bullet behind his shoulder.
+He trumpeted, staggered forward, tripped over into the rocky bed of a
+“nullah,” scrambled out on the other side, and there receiving another
+two shots, crashed down lifeless into a second dry water-course.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_437.jpg" width="600" height="356"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AN ELEPHANT CHARGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Chase was then given up a mountain gorge to the next largest elephant
+which deliberately charged back at Elton, the nearest of her pursuers.
+Allowing her to approach to within about three yards, he gave her a
+forehead shot, which turned her round; and then Rhodes “doubled her
+over like a rabbit.” The retreating herd were pursued to the top of the
+pass, where the last of the line, a big bull elephant, receiving a shot,
+stumbled and fell, while Elton, with “the pace on,” nearly fell on the
+top of him; “and,” he says, “holding my Henry rifle like a pistol, I shot
+him again at the root of the tail. The shock was irresistible; over the
+edge of the ravine he went, head foremost, the blood gushing out of his
+trunk, and his fall into space only broken by a stout acacia, in which
+he hung suspended, his fore and hind legs on either side&mdash;dead.” Still
+the hunt was continued, and on a second rocky slope a wounded elephant
+was found laboring up, supported and helped on by a friend on either
+side, while a fourth urged him on from behind with his forehead. This
+last faced round, and stood defiantly at bay, his ears “spread-eagled.”
+Elton’s last cartridge missed fire; Rhodes shot; a tremendous report
+followed; the elephant, with a groan, plunged over a cliff, and hung
+suspended by
+a<!--445.png--><span class="pagenum">438</span>
+thorn-tree in mid-air, like his predecessor; while Mr.
+Rhodes, casting his gun from him, ran down the declivity to the river,
+his face streaming with blood; and the survivors of the herd, toiling
+painfully up the mountain-side, disappeared over the sky-line, “uttering
+loud grumblings of disapprobation and distress.” The chamber of the rifle
+had burst, cutting Mr. Rhodes severely in the face; and his companion
+endeavored to console him by telling him that many a man at home would
+have given one thousand pounds for such a day’s sport, and suffered the
+cut in the forehead into the bargain.</p>
+
+<p>Such sport is, however, getting every day more difficult to obtain; for
+this lordly animal, the true “king of beasts,” is retreating before the
+march of civilization, and becoming gradually more scarce even in the
+African solitudes. This is not to be wondered at, considering the vast
+numbers&mdash;probably from fifteen thousand to twenty thousand&mdash;that are
+killed annually for the sake of their ivory.</p>
+
+<p>It may be remarked that Elton’s escape from the elephant’s charge was
+a remarkably close one. There is only one other instance known of the
+“forehead shot” being effectual in stopping the course of an African
+elephant. This adventure happened in the Abyssinian highlands to Sir
+Samuel Baker. That mighty hunter was at the time new to African sport,
+and imagining that planting a bullet in the forehead, the favorite method
+with hunters of the wild elephant of India and Ceylon, would be equally
+effectual in the case of his big-eared kinsman of Central Africa, he
+awaited the charge of an elephant until she was within five yards of the
+muzzle of his rifle. The bullet happened to strike a vulnerable spot in
+the skull, and dropped the animal dead; but the lookers-on for several
+moments regarded the hunter as a dead man.</p>
+
+<p>In both these cases the elephant shot was a female, which possesses in a
+less marked degree than the male the solid structure of skull that, along
+with their immense ears, convex foreheads, and greater size, distinguish
+the African from the Asiatic variety. When not struck in a vital spot,
+the elephant is remarkably tenacious of life; and Livingstone tells how
+he fired twelve bullets into one that had fallen into a hole, and had
+about a hundred
+native<!--446.png--><span class="pagenum">439</span>
+spears sticking in him, and next morning found
+that the animal had scrambled out and escaped into the forest. Perhaps
+the most perilous experience that ever befell a white hunter when after
+elephants occurred to Mr. Oswell, far to the southward, on the banks of
+the Zouga. Chasing an elephant through a thorny thicket on horseback, he
+suddenly found the animal had wheeled round and was bearing straight down
+upon him. Attempting to turn his horse, he was thrown, face downwards,
+before the elephant. Twisting round, he saw the huge fore foot about
+to descend on his legs, parted them, and drew in his breath, expecting
+the other foot to be planted on his body; but saw the whole of the
+“under-side” of the huge creature pass over him, and rose unhurt to his
+feet, saved almost by miracle.</p>
+
+<p>But this has carried us far away from the elephant marsh, from the
+borders of which Messrs. Elton, Cotterill, Rhodes, and Hoste made their
+ascent of the mountain barrier of Nyassa. The lowest pass over the
+Konde, or Livingstone range, is eight thousand eight hundred feet above
+sea-level; and the ascent embraces every variety of climate and scenery,
+from stifling tropical swamp to breezy moorlands of fern and bracken,
+carpeted with wild thyme, daisies, dandelions, and buttercups, like our
+hills at home. From the top a magnificent landscape is viewed. Elton
+says: “The country we have passed through is without exception the finest
+tract in Africa I have yet seen. Towards the east we were walled in with
+mountains rising to a height of from twelve to fourteen thousand feet,
+inclosing undulating, well-watered valleys, lovely woodland slopes,
+hedged-in fields, and knolls dotted with native hamlets. There is nothing
+to equal it either in fertility or in grazing land in Natal, the reputed
+‘garden of South Africa.’ It is the most exceptionally favorable country
+for semi-tropical cultivation I have ever seen.”</p>
+
+<p>A serious obstacle to the development of this beautiful highland region
+is probably the exceptionally deadly climate of the country through
+which it must be approached. Already many precious lives have been
+sacrificed in the attempt to open up the Nyassa. Livingstone got here
+his “death-sentence.” The German Roscher, who, travelling in the guise
+of an Arab from the east coast, viewed the lake only two months later
+than the great missionary,
+was<!--447.png--><span class="pagenum">440</span>
+basely murdered at a little village near
+its shores. Bishop Mackenzie is buried in the Shir&eacute; swamps; and near him
+lie nearly the whole staff of the University Mission to this region,
+all stricken down with marsh fever. Thornton, the intrepid companion
+of Livingstone on his first visit to the Nyassa, after having ascended
+half-way up the snow-capped mountain Kilimandjaro, far to the northward,
+returned to this quarter, only to die at the foot of the Murchison
+Rapids. Mrs. Livingstone, the devoted wife of the missionary, rests
+under a gigantic baobab tree a little way below the Shir&eacute; mouth; and
+near her grave is that of Kirkpatrick, of the Zambesi Survey Expedition
+of 1826. Another baobab, in Ugogo, shades the resting-place of Consul
+Elton, whom we have just seen full of life and hope, at the head of the
+pass overhanging the north end of the lake. Only a few marches to the
+northward of the pass, while toiling across a droughty plain, and weak
+from hunger and fever, he succumbed to sunstroke, and a most useful
+and promising career closed at the early age of thirty-seven. Still
+younger was Mr. Keith Johnston, who died from dysentery, while leading
+an expedition from Zanzibar territory to Nyassa. Dr. Black is buried on
+Cape Maclear, the rocky promontory cleaving the southern end of the lake,
+where the Free Church of Scotland Mission Station of Livingstonia has
+been planted; and the little cemetery contains many other graves of white
+persons.</p>
+
+<p>The Scottish mission stations on the Shir&eacute; and Lake Nyassa are not
+the only outposts which Christianity has planted in the far interior
+of the “Dark Continent.” Similar colonies, for the moral improvement
+and industrial training of the natives of Africa, have been placed on
+the shores of the Victoria Nyanza and Tanganyika by the London and
+University Missionary Societies. The example is being followed by
+similar associations in France and America; and the Zambesi country has
+been mapped out for a renewal of the long-abandoned work of the Jesuit
+fathers. Science, commerce, and philanthropy have enlisted by the side
+of religion in the task of opening up Africa. The chief outlets of the
+slave-trade have at length, it is hoped, been closed, thanks mainly to
+the efforts of England, and the hearty co-operation of the government of
+Portugal, Egypt and Zanzibar.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><!--448.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_441" id="Page_441">441</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>
+AFRICAN RESOURCES.
+</h2>
+
+<p>Though the coasts of Africa lie within sight of the most civilized
+countries, its depths are still mysteries. Though the valley of the Nile
+was, in the earliest ages of history, the seat of commerce, the arts and
+sciences, it is only now that we read of a new source for that sacred
+stream in Lake Edward Nyanza.</p>
+
+<p>This wonderful continent, the Negroland of our school books, the marvel
+of modern times as the light of exploration pierces its forests and
+reveals its lakes, rivers and peoples, is a vast peninsula, triangular
+in shape, containing 12,300,000 square miles. This vast area renders a
+conception of its geographic details difficult, yet by taking several
+plain views of it, the whole may be brought out so that one can grasp
+it with a fair degree of intelligence. One way to look at it is to
+regard the entire seacoast as the rind of the real Africa. Follow its
+Mediterranean boundary on the north, its Red Sea and Indian Ocean
+boundary on the east, its Atlantic Ocean boundary on the south and west,
+and the lowland rind is always present, in some places quite thin, in
+others many miles thick.</p>
+
+<p>This rind, low, swampy, reedy, channeled by oozy creeks, or many mouthed
+rivers, is the prelude to something wholly different within. On the
+north, north-east and north-west, we know it introduces us to the barren
+Sahara. In all other parts it introduces us to an upland Africa, which,
+for height and variety of plateaus, has no equal in the world. These
+plateaus are variegated with immense mountain chains, like those of
+the Atlas, the Moon, the Kong, the Gupata, and those just revealed by
+Stanley extending between the two great lakes Albert Nyanza and Victoria
+Nyanza, and to a height of 18,000 feet, fully 6,000 of which are clad
+in perpetual snow,
+even<!--449.png--><span class="pagenum">442</span>
+though lying under the Equator. Here too are
+those vast stretches of water which vie in size and depth with the lake
+systems of any other continent, and which feed mighty rivers, even though
+evaporation be constantly lifting their volume into the tropical air.
+No traveler has ever looked with other than awe upon those superb lakes
+Albert Nyanza, Edward Nyanza, Victoria Nyanza, Tanganyika, Leopold II.,
+Nyassa, Bangweola, and dozens of smaller ones whose presence came upon
+him like a revelation. And then out of these plateaus, thousands of feet
+high, run all those mighty rivers which constitute the most unique and
+mightiest water system in the world&mdash;the Zambezi, the Congo, the Niger,
+the Senegal and the Nile.</p>
+
+<p>This would be Africa in a general sense. But in view of the importance
+of this opening continent, we must get a fuller view of it. The Africa
+of antiquity and of the Middle Ages extended from the Red Sea to the
+Atlantic and from the Mediterranean to the land of the Berbers, and other
+strange, if not mythical peoples. It embraced Egypt, Nubia and Abyssinia
+on the east. On the north it was skirted by the Barbary States. But its
+great, appalling feature was the great desert of Sahara, forbidden to
+Greek or Roman, Persian or Egyptian, till the Arab came on his camel, and
+with the flaming sword of Mohammed in hand, to pierce its waste places
+and make traffic possible amid its sandy wastes.</p>
+
+<p>South of the Western Sahara is a fairly defined section extending from
+Timbuctoo to the Gulf of Guinea, or in other words nearly to the Equator.
+It is divided by the Kong chain of mountains, and embraces the water
+systems of the Senegal and Niger Rivers. This was the part of Africa
+which first drew European enterprise after Portugal and Spain became the
+world’s sailors, and began to feel their way toward the Cape of Good
+Hope. Three hundred years ago it was what Central Africa is to-day, a
+wonderland full of venturesome travelers, a source of national jealousy,
+a factor in European politics, a starting point for a thousand theories
+respecting colonization and of as many enterprises having for their
+object the introduction of commerce, the arts and Christianity among the
+natives, who were by no means as peaceably inclined as in the present
+day. As other natives came to find out something of the
+commercial<!--450.png--><span class="pagenum">443</span>
+value of the Senegal and Niger countries, they stepped in to get their
+share of the honor and profit of possession, and so this part of Africa
+was partitioned, till we find on the Atlantic, south of the Niger, the
+British colony of Sierra Leone, the kingdoms of Ashantee and Dahomey,
+the republic of Liberia, the coast towns of the Bight of Benin, and the
+strong French possessions lying just north of the Congo and extending
+indefinitely inland.</p>
+
+<p>Back of this section, and extending south of the Sahara, to the
+head-waters of the Nile, is the great central basin whose waters converge
+in the vast estuary known as Lake Tchad. It may be somewhat vaguely
+termed the Soudan region, which is divided into Northern and Equatorial
+Soudan, the former being the seat of the recent uprising of the Mahdi,
+and the latter the center of the kingdom which Emin Pasha sought to wrest
+from Mohammedan grasp. Along the Indian Ocean coast, from Cape Guardafui
+to Mozambique, is a lowland stretch from two to three hundred miles wide,
+watered by small, sluggish rivers which find their way into the Indian
+Sea.</p>
+
+<p>Passing down the eastern side of the continent, we come to the immense
+basin of the Zambezi, second only in extent to that of the Congo,
+stretching almost to the Atlantic coast, seat of mighty tribes like the
+Macololos, teeming with commercial possibilities, and even now a source
+of such envy between England and Portugal as to raise a question of war.
+South of the Zambezi comes the great Kalahari desert as a balance to
+the northern Sahara, and then that fringe of civilization embraced in
+Transvaal, the Orange Free State, Cape Colony, and so around till the
+Portuguese kingdoms of Benguela and Angola are reached, all of whose
+waters run by short courses to the sea. These great natural divisions
+comprise the entire area of the African continent except that vast
+equatorial basin drained by the Congo.</p>
+
+<p>This mighty region, the Central Africa of to-day, is now largely embraced
+in the new Congo Free State. To the south of the mouth of the Congo is
+the State of Angola, and to the north, the State of Congo, claimed by
+the French. The great river was originally called the Zaire, and by
+some the Livingstone. Its first, or ocean, section extends from Banana
+Point to Boma, a distance of 70 miles, and is in fact an arm of the
+sea. Thence, upward to Vivi, a distance of
+40<!--451.png--><span class="pagenum">444</span>
+miles, there is a deep,
+broad channel, with a moderate current. Vivi is the head of the lower
+river navigation, being at the foot of the cataracts, which extend for
+over 200 miles through a system of ca&ntilde;ons, with more than fifty falls of
+various heights. They are known as Livingstone Falls, and have stretches
+of navigable water between them. After the cataracts are passed, Stanley
+Pool is reached, where are the towns of Leopoldville, Kinshassa and
+others, founded recently as trading or missionary stations. The vertical
+descent of the river from the broad, tranquil expanse of Stanley Pool
+to the level at Vivi, is about 1,000 feet, and from thence to the sea
+fully 250 feet more. Stanley Pool, or basin, is about 20 miles long and
+nearly 10 broad, and is filled with low wooded islands, natural homes
+for hippopotami, crocodiles, elephants, and all tropical animals. From
+Leopoldville to Stanley Falls there is uninterrupted navigation, and
+the distance is 1,068 miles, with a comparatively straight course and a
+vertical descent of four inches to the mile. Stanley Falls 1,511 feet
+above the sea level. The affluents of the river below Stanley Falls
+present a navigable surface estimated at 4,000 miles. In the wide and
+elevated portion of the river above Stanley Falls it is known as the
+Lualaba. Its course is now nearly north, and it was this fact that
+deceived Livingstone into the belief that he was on the Nile. This
+portion, though abounding in vast lake stretches and rich in affluents,
+is navigable only for shallow craft. It drains a fertile country whose
+centre is Nyangwe, the best-known market town of Central Africa and the
+capital of Tippoo Tib’s dominions, the conqueror of the Manyuema, and the
+craftiest of all the Arab potentates in Central Africa.</p>
+
+<p>To the east of the Upper Congo, or Lualaba, is a magnificent stretch
+of grass country, extending to Lake Tanganyika, whose waters flow into
+the Congo, making a descent of 1,200 feet in 200 miles. As the western
+shores of that lake rise fully 2,500 feet, this region becomes a sort or
+Switzerland in tropical Africa. North and east of Tanganyika, are the
+Nile sources, in Lakes Albert, Edward and Victoria Nyanza&mdash;a fertile and
+populous region, fitted by nature for her thriftiest and best peoples.
+Thus we have Africa again mapped, and her grandest portion embraced
+in the Congo State, with its 1,500,000 square miles, its countless
+population, its abundance
+of<!--453.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_446" id="Page_446">446</a></span>
+navigable streams, its remarkably fertile
+soil, its boundless forests, all its requisites for the demands of an
+advanced civilization.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_445.jpg" width="600" height="346"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NATIVE HUNTERS KILLING SOKOS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To the naturalist Africa opens a field for research equalled by no other
+continent. The whole organic world offers no such number of giant animal
+and plant forms. It unfolds five times as many quadrupeds as Asia, and
+three times as many as the Americas. Its colossal hippopotami, huge
+giraffes, infinite variety of antelopes, and water-bucks, the curious
+diving sheep, or goat, called the Quichobo, long armed apes, fierce
+sokos, and swarms of sprightly monkeys, excel those of Asia in size. That
+mammoth bird, the ostrich, whose feathers delight our modern slaves of
+fashion, is exclusively indigenous to Africa. The Arab may have brought
+the camel from the deserts of Sinai, but Africa has made a home for
+it. Africa is the habitat of the rhinoceros, elephant, lion, panther,
+leopard, ounce, jackal, hyena, wolf, fox, dog, cat, bat, rat, hare,
+rabbit, bear, horse, ass, zebra, sheep, with wool and without, goat,
+buffalo, gazelle, cattle of all kinds, some of them the finest specimens
+in nature, deer of the fallow type, which put to shame the sleek breeds
+of European parks.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_446.jpg" width="600" height="323"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AFRICAN ANT-EATER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_446_fp.jpg" width="600" height="386"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">TERRIFIC FIGHT OF JUNGLE MONARCHS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_447.jpg" width="600" height="380"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AFRICAN QUICHOBO.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The birds are equally numberless as to variety. There are eagles, hawks,
+flamingoes, kingfishers, many varieties of parrots, peacocks, partridges,
+pheasants, widow and cardinal birds, weavers, cuckoos, doves, pigeons,
+ducks, geese, and crown-birds, the plumage of the last being the most
+beautiful of the feathered tribe.
+The<!--457.png--><span class="pagenum">448</span>
+reptilia embraces crocodiles,
+the python, the boa and hundreds of smaller snakes, some harmless and
+some highly venomous. The rivers and lakes swarm with fish, though the
+variety is not so great as in more northern waters. The forests and the
+earth swarm with termites and ants of great variety, which draw after
+them a host of ant-eaters of the armadillo type; and at times spiders,
+caterpillars, and armies of locusts infest the trees or darken the sun.
+Insect life knows no limit in Africa&mdash;some the most beautiful, some
+the most horrid. The tsetse fly is no less a torment to cattle than
+the “devil of the road” is to the woe-begone traveler. And everywhere,
+especially in tropical Africa, vegetation has a force and vigor peculiar
+to<!--459.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_450" id="Page_450">450</a></span>
+that continent. Nature seems to rejoice in unfolding her strength
+through the seeds deposited in the soil. “Some fifty and some an hundred
+fold” is the law of increase, when the least care is given to planting
+and cultivation. Maize produces two crops a year. Tree life is gigantic,
+and the variety of wood infinite. Of the picturesque trees, the boabab,
+or monkey bread-fruit tree, whose crown of green sometimes forms a circle
+of over 100 feet, takes a front rank, followed by the ceiba, with its
+stem of 60 feet and its rich crown of foliage extending fully 60 feet
+further.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 563px;">
+<img src="images/i_448.jpg" width="563" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE “DEVIL OF THE ROAD” AND OTHER AFRICAN WASPS,
+WITH CATERPILLAR NESTS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_449.jpg" width="600" height="374"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">BUSH-BUCKS OF RIVER CHOBE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>All of torrid Africa revels in plants and fruits of the most nutritious
+and medicinal quality, suited to the wants and well-being of the people.
+There is both food and medicine in the fruits of the palm, banana,
+orange, shaddock, pine-apple, tamarind, and the leaves and juice of the
+boabab. The butter-tree gives not only butter, but a fine medicine. The
+ground-nut yields in six weeks from the planting. The natives produce
+for eating, wheat, corn, rice, barley, millet, yams, lotus berries, gum,
+dates, figs, sugar, and various spices, and for drink, coffee, palm-wine,
+cocoanut milk and Cape wine. No less than five kinds of pepper are known,
+and the best indigo is produced, along with other valuable dyes. Cotton,
+hemp and flax are raised for clothing.</p>
+
+<p>It has always been a fiction that Africa contained more gold than any
+other continent. The “gold coast” was a temptation to venturesome
+pioneers for a long time. Precisely how rich in minerals the “dark
+continent” is, remains to be proved. But it is known that iron abounds
+in many places, that saltpetre and emery exist in paying quantities,
+that amber is found on the coasts, and that diamonds are plenty in the
+Kimberly region. That the continent is rich in useful minerals may be
+taken for granted, but as these things are not perceptible to the naked
+eye, time must bring the proof.</p>
+
+<p>Various estimates have been put upon the population of Africa. Stanley
+estimated the population of the Congo basin at 50,000,000. The Barbary
+States we know are very populous. Africa has in all probability
+contributed twenty-five millions of slaves to other countries within
+two-hundred and fifty years without apparent diminution of her own
+population.</p>
+
+<p><!--460.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_451" id="Page_451">451</a></span></p>
+
+<p>So she must be not only very populous but very prolific. It would be
+safe to estimate her people at 200,000,000, counting the Ethiopic or
+true African race, and the Caucasian types, which embrace the Nubians,
+Abyssinians, Copts and Arabs. The Arabs are not aborigines, yet have
+forced themselves, with their religion, into all of Northern and Central
+Africa, and their language is the leading one wherever they have obtained
+a foot-hold. The Berber and Shelluh tongues are used in the Barbary
+States. The Mandingo speech is heard from the Senegal to the Joliba. On
+the southwestern coast there is a mixture of Portuguese. Among the true
+natives the languages spoken are as numerous as the tribes themselves.
+In the Sahara alone there are no less than forty-three dialects. Mr.
+Guinness, of London, president of the English Baptist Missionary Society
+operating in Africa, says there are 600 languages spoken in Africa,
+belonging principally to the great Soudanese group.</p>
+
+<p>Of the human element in Africa, we present the summary given by Rev.
+Geo. L. Taylor. He says:&mdash;“Who and what are the races occupying our New
+Africa? The almost universally accepted anthropology of modern science
+puts Japheth (the Aryans), Shem (the Semites), and Ham (the Hamites),
+together as the Caucasian race or variety (not species) of mankind; and
+makes the Ugrians, the Mongols, the Malays and the Negroes (and some
+authorities make other divisions also) each another separate variety of
+the one common species and genus <i>homo</i>, man.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_452.jpg" width="600" height="543"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NATIVE TYPES IN SOUTHERN SOUDAN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>“Leaving the radical school of anthropology out of the question, it
+cannot be denied that the vast preponderance of conservative scientific
+opinion is, at least, to this effect, namely: While the Berbers
+(including the Twareks, Copts and Tibbus) are Hamitic, but differentiated
+toward the Semitic stock, the true Negroes are also probably Hamitic, but
+profoundly differentiated in the direction of some other undetermined
+factor, and the Ethiopians or Abyssinians are an intermediate link
+between the Caucasian Hamite and the non-Caucasian Negro, with also a
+prehistoric Semite mixture from southern Arabia. Barth, whose work is a
+mine of learning on the Soudan, concededly the best authority extant on
+the subject, says that while the original population of the Soudan was
+Negro,<!--461.png--><span class="pagenum">452</span>
+as was all the southern edge of the Sahara, nevertheless the
+Negro has been crowded southward along the whole line by the Moor (a mixt
+Arab) in the west, by the Berber (including both Twareks and Tibbus) in
+the centre, and by the Arab in the east. Timbuctoo is a city of Berber,
+not of Negro origin, founded before the Norman conquest of England,
+since conquered by Moors, and now ruled by the Fulb&eacute;, or Fellatah, who
+are neither Moor, Berber, Arab, nor Negro but a distinct race between
+the Arab and Berber on the one side and the Negro stock on the other,
+and whose language and physiognomy, and only semi-woolly hair, are
+more Mongoloid or Kaffir than Negro; but who are the most intelligent,
+energetic and rapidly becoming the most powerful people in the Soudan,
+and whose influence is now felt from Senegambia to Baghirmi, through half
+a
+dozen<!--462.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_453" id="Page_453">453</a></span>
+native states. In all the Niger basin only the Mandingo and the
+Tombo countries about the head of the Joliba, or Niger, are now ruled by
+pure Negro dynasties, the former being a splendid and capable jet-black
+people, probably the finest purely Negro race yet known to Europeans.
+In the central Soudan the Kanuri of Kanem and Bornu came to Kanem as a
+conquering Tibbu-Berber stock over 500 years ago, and are now Negroid.
+Farther east Tibbu and Arab are the ruling elements. Haussa, Sokoto and
+Adamawa are now Fellatah States. The southward pressure of Moor, Twarek,
+Tibbu and Arab is still going on; and the Fulb&eacute;, in the midst of the
+native states, is rapidly penetrating them, subverting the few native
+Negro dynasties still existing, and creating a new and rising race and
+power that is, at any rate, not Negro. Thus ancient Nigritia is rapidly
+ceasing to be “Negroland,” the races being more and more mixt, and newer
+and ruling elements of Moor, Berber and Arab constantly flowing in. This
+is the testimony of a long line of scholars from Barth down to Prof. A.
+H. Keane, author of the learned article on “Soudan,” in the <i>Encyclopedia
+Britannica</i>.</p>
+
+<p>“The people commonly considered Negro, in Africa, consist mainly of
+three great stocks&mdash;the Nigritians of the Soudan, the great Bantu stock
+reaching from the southern bounds of the Soudan to the southern rim of
+the Zambesi basin, and the great Zulu stock. All these differ widely from
+each other in physiology, languages, arts and customs. The Nigritians
+are declining under Arab and Berber pressure; the Zulus, a powerful
+and semi-Negro race, are rapidly extending their conquests northward
+beyond the Zambesi into east central Africa. The Bantus are mainly
+agriculturists. They fill the Congo basin, and extend eastward to the
+Indian Ocean, between Uganda (which is Bantu) and Unyanyemb&eacute;. They have
+only recently been discovered, and are not yet much studied by Europeans.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_454.jpg" width="600" height="358"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">BARI OF GONDOKORO.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>“But not all so-called Negroes are true Negroes. As for the eastern
+highland regions of the two Niles, and thence southward from the
+Abyssinians and the Shillooks at Khartoum to the Bari of Gondokoro and
+the Waganda of Uganda&mdash;the Niam-Niam of Monbuttoo, the Manyuema of the
+Lualaba, and the Makololo on the Zambesi&mdash;the ruling and paramount native
+tribes are Negroid,
+but<!--464.png--><span class="pagenum">455</span>
+not Negro, unless our ordinary conception of the
+Negro is a good deal revised. As Livingstone says of the Makololo, so of
+all these, they are a “coffee-and-milk color;” or we may say all these
+peoples are from a dark coffee-brown to brownish-white, like coffee,
+depending on the amount of milk added. They are mostly tall, straight,
+leanish, wiry, active, of rather regular features, fair agriculturists
+and cattle-raisers, with much mechanical capacity, born merchants and
+traders, and almost everywhere hold darker and more truly negro tribes
+in slavery to themselves, where any such tribes exist. Where they have
+none or few domestic animals for meat, they are frequently cannibals.
+In the middle Congo basin the tribes are more truly Negro, and here the
+true Negroes are freemen, independent and capable, though in a somewhat
+low state of development. But, so far as now known, the true Negro, in
+an independent condition, holds and rules but a comparatively small part
+of Africa. As to capability for improvement these peoples&mdash;the Negroid
+races at least and probably the Negroes&mdash;are as apt and civilizable as
+any Caucasian or Mongolian people have originally been, if we consider
+how their geographical and climatic isolation has hitherto cut them
+off from the rest of the world and the world from them. We know that
+if we leave Revelation out of the account, all Caucasian civilization,
+whether Aryan, Semitic, or Hamitic, can be traced backward till, just
+on the dawn of history, it narrows down to small clans or families,
+with whom the light began and from whom it spread. We know the same,
+also, as to the non-Caucasian Chinese and Nahua civilizations of Asia
+and America. Had the spread of the germs of these civilizations been
+prevented by conditions like those in Africa, who shall say that the
+stage of development might not be about the same to-day? There seems to
+be but one uncivilizable race&mdash;if, indeed, they are such&mdash;in Africa; and
+that is the dwarfs. The Akka, found by Schweinfurth south of the Welle,
+called themselves “Betua,” the same word as the “Batua” on the Kassai.
+The dwarfs of the upper Zambesi call themselves by a similar word, and
+so with the Bushmen in South Africa. Many things go to prove that these
+dwarf nations are all one race, the diminutive remnants of a primeval
+stock of one of the lowest types of man, who have never risen
+above<!--465.png--><span class="pagenum">456</span>
+the
+hunter stage of life. They have been scattered, and almost exterminated,
+by the incoming of the powerful Bantu stock, that is now spread from
+the Soudan to Zululand. These dwarfs are the best living examples of
+similar races once scattered over Europe and Asia, whose real existence
+lies at the bottom of all the lore of fairies, brownies, elfs, gnomes,
+etc. They constitute one of the most pregnant subjects of study in all
+anthropology. They are seemingly always uncivilizable.”</p>
+
+<p>In his “Africa in a Nutshell,” Rev. Geo. Thompson thus sketches the
+country, especially the central belt:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>“The Central Belt of Africa&mdash;say from 15&deg; north to 15&deg; south of the
+equator, about 2,000 miles in width&mdash;is, heavily-timbered, of the jungle
+nature. There are numerous large trees (one to six feet through, and
+50 to 150 feet high) with smaller ones, and bushes intermingled, while
+vines of various kinds intertwine, from bottom to top, making progress
+through them, except in paths, very difficult. Only experience can give
+a realizing idea of an African forest&mdash;of the tangle, and the density of
+its shade.</p>
+
+<p>“While traveling through them, even in the dry season, when the sun
+shines brightest, one cannot see or feel the warming rays. The leaves
+drip with the dews of the night, and the traveler becomes chilled, and
+suffers exceedingly.</p>
+
+<p>“But the whole country is not now covered with such forests. They are
+found in places, from ten to twenty-five miles in extent, where the
+population is sparse, but the larger portion of the country has been
+cleared off and cultivated; and, while much of it is in crops all the
+time, other large patches are covered with bushes, of from one to three
+years’ growth&mdash;for they clear off a new place every year. The farm of
+this year is left to grow up to bushes two or three years, to kill out
+the grass, and then it is cleared off again. Thus, in thickly settled
+portions of the country, but little large timber is found, except along
+rivers, or on mountains. Such is the country north of the Gulf of Guinea,
+to near the Desert.</p>
+
+<p>“The people are numerous, and the cities larger (the largest cities in
+Africa; they are from one to six miles through), and much of the country
+is under cultivation. And so of the central portion of Africa, in the
+vicinity of Lake Tchad.</p>
+
+<p><!--466.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_457" id="Page_457">457</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_457.jpg" width="600" height="356"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">CHASING GIRAFFES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--467.png--><span class="pagenum">458</span></p>
+
+<p>“But in that portion of Africa lying 500 miles south and north of the
+Equator, and from the Atlantic Coast, 1,000 miles eastward, the jungle
+and heavy forests are the most extensive, and towns farther between, and
+not so large.</p>
+
+<p>“This is the home of the gorilla, which grows from five to six feet high,
+of powerful build, and with arms that can stretch from seven to nine
+feet; a formidable enemy to meet. It is also the home of that wonderfully
+varied and gigantic animal life&mdash;elephants, lions, leopards, zebras,
+giraffes, rhinoceri, hippopotami, crocodile etc., which distinguishes
+African Zoology from that of every other continent.</p>
+
+<p>“This central belt of Africa is capable of sustaining a vast population.
+It can be generally cultivated, and its resources are wonderful. The soil
+is productive. The seasons are favorable, and crops can be kept growing
+the year through.</p>
+
+<p>“Rice, of three or four kinds and of excellent quality, Indian corn,
+three kinds of sweet potatoes, beans, peanuts, melons, squashes,
+tomatoes, ginger, pepper, arrowroot, coffee, sugar cane, yams, cocoa,
+casada, and other grains and vegetables, besides all tropical fruits, are
+cultivated.</p>
+
+<p>“The coffee is a wild forest tree, growing seventy-five feet high and
+eighteen inches through. It is also cultivated largely in Liberia. Many
+of the people have from 100 to 1,000 acres of coffee trees.</p>
+
+<p>“The Liberian coffee is of such superior quality and productiveness, that
+millions of plants have been sent to Java and old coffee countries, for
+seed. Its fame is already world-wide. The wild coffee is as good as any,
+but the bean is smaller. And new settlements soon become self-supporting
+by the culture of coffee. Sugar cane is also raised, and much sugar is
+made in this colony. Many steam sugar mills are in operation on St.
+Paul’s River and at other places.</p>
+
+<p>“On the Gulf of Guinea the people are quite generally raising cotton and
+shipping it to England. Hundreds of cotton presses and gins have been
+bought, and used by them, and Africa will yet be the greatest cotton,
+coffee and sugar country in the world. All nations can be supplied
+therefrom.</p>
+
+<p>“Cotton is cultivated, in small quantities, in widely-extended portions
+of Africa, and manufactured into cloth which is very durable. They also
+make leather of a superior quality.</p>
+
+<p><!--468.png--><span class="pagenum">459</span></p>
+
+<p>“Gold, copper, coal, the richest iron ore in the world, and other
+valuable metals are abundant; from them the natives manufacture their
+tools, ornaments and many things of interest. Ivory, hides, gums, rubber,
+etc., are abundant. It is said that 50,000 elephants are killed yearly,
+for their ivory, in Africa.</p>
+
+<p>“The country only needs development; and the many exploring parties
+from Europe, who are penetrating every part, seeking trade, will aid in
+opening its boundless treasures. Gold-mining companies are operating on
+the Gulf of Guinea, with paying results.</p>
+
+<p>“And the natives secure and sell to the merchants large amounts of gold,
+in form of rough, large rings. They make fine gold ornaments, and wear
+vast quantities.</p>
+
+<p>“This trade with Interior Africa, so eagerly sought, will soon lead to
+railroads, in different directions&mdash;from Liberia to the Niger, and across
+to Zanzibar from South Africa; and in other directions. The work is
+begun, and will not stop.</p>
+
+<p>“The French and the English are planning for railroads in different
+directions. The former are building one from Senegal to Timbuctoo.</p>
+
+<p>“The nations of Europe are, to-day, in a strife to secure the best
+locations for trade with this rich country. And soon there will be no
+more ‘unexplored regions.’</p>
+
+<p>“The coasts on the west and east are generally low and unhealthy. But the
+interior is higher, and will be more suited to the white man.</p>
+
+<p>“It is, in the main, an elevated table-land, from 1,000 to 6,000 feet
+above the sea, variegated with peaks and mountains, from 3,000 to 20,000
+feet high, snow-capped, and with valleys and broad plains, hot springs,
+and salt pans, and innumerable springs, inlets and streams.</p>
+
+<p>“In some regions, for a distance often to twenty miles, there is a
+scarcity of water in the dry season. Other places are flat plains, which
+are overflowed in the rainy season, so they cannot be inhabited or
+cultivated, except in the dry season. And such localities are unhealthy.</p>
+
+<p>“But by far the greater part of the country is capable of being inhabited
+and cultivated&mdash;with an abundance of timber of many kinds, suitable for
+all the purposes of civilization, for boats,
+houses,<!--469.png--><span class="pagenum">460</span>
+wagons, furniture
+and implements&mdash;but all different from anything in America. Some kinds
+are equal to fine mahogany.</p>
+
+<p>“This central portion of Africa is blessed with numerous large lakes,
+three large rivers, and many smaller.</p>
+
+<p>“The Niger rises 200 miles back of Liberia, runs northeasterly, to near
+Timbuctoo, then southward to the Gulf of Guinea. It is already navigated
+for hundreds of miles by English steamers.</p>
+
+<p>“In fourteen years the exports have increased from $150,000 to
+$10,000,000; trading factories from two to fifty-seven; and steamers from
+two to twenty, and other boats.</p>
+
+<p>“The Binu&eacute; is a large branch coming in from the eastward.</p>
+
+<p>“And the Congo, rising nearly 15&deg; south of the equator, runs through
+various lakes, making a northward course for more than 1,000 miles, to
+2<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub>&deg; north of the equator, then bends westward and southwesterly to the
+Atlantic; being from one to sixteen miles wide, and very deep; filled
+with inhabited islands and abounding in magnificent scenery. The banks
+along the rapids rise from 100 to 1,200 feet high. It freshens the ocean
+for six miles from land, and its course can be seen in the ocean for
+thirty-six miles.</p>
+
+<p>“There are two series of rapids in it&mdash;a great obstacle to
+navigation&mdash;but the desire for trade will overcome these.</p>
+
+<p>“The first series of rapids commences about 100 miles from the sea, and
+extends some 200 miles in falls and cascades&mdash;with smoother stretches
+between&mdash;to Stanley Pool. There are thirty-two of these falls. From
+thence is a broad, magnificent river, with no obstruction for nearly
+1,000 miles, to the next series of rapids at Stanley Falls. From this,
+again, is another long stretch of navigable river. It pours nearly five
+times the amount of water of the Mississippi.</p>
+
+<p>“Between Lake Bangweola and Stanley Pool, the Congo falls 2,491 feet;
+between the pool and ocean, 1,147 feet, making 3,638 feet in all.</p>
+
+<p>“The Nile falls over 1,200 feet between Victoria and Albert Lakes, and
+2,200 from Albert to the sea.</p>
+
+<p>“Most of the rivers which rise in the interior of Africa have heavy fall.</p>
+
+<p>“Then there are numerous large rivers emptying into the
+Congo,<!--470.png--><span class="pagenum">461</span>
+on each
+side, which can be ascended far into the interior. Those on the north
+can be easily connected with the head waters of the Gaboon River, and
+those on the south with the head waters of the Zambesi, emptying into the
+Indian Ocean; and on the east, with Lake Tanganyika.</p>
+
+<p>“It will be seen that the Congo River will be of vast importance in the
+development of Africa. A railroad will soon be built around the falls, to
+connect with the steamers above.</p>
+
+<p>“The soil of Upper Congo is very rich, the forests are exceedingly
+valuable, the climate quite favorable, and the people numerous and kind.</p>
+
+<p>“A few years ago the trade of the Congo was only a few thousand dollars
+yearly. It is now, so soon, from $10,000,000 to $20,000,000 a year.
+Trading houses and steamers are multiplying.</p>
+
+<p>“The Congo Valley contains over 5,000 miles of navigable river and lake.
+The nations can be supplied from this region with cotton, coffee, sugar,
+gum copal, ivory, rubber, valuable dyes, iron, gold, copper, and many
+other things&mdash;when it shall be civilized and a market formed.</p>
+
+<p>“Many are running to and fro, and knowledge is being rapidly increased in
+those parts.</p>
+
+<p>“Then there are the rivers Senegal, Gambia (navigable for 200 miles),
+Sierra Leone, Calabar, etc.</p>
+
+<p>“The lakes are numerous, from the size of Lake Michigan, or larger, to
+those covering only a few square miles.</p>
+
+<p>“Lake Tchad, in the centre of the continent, is nearly the size of Lake
+Michigan, with marshy surroundings, from which as yet no outlet has been
+discovered, though the Tshaddi, or River Binu&eacute;, <i>may</i> be found to be the
+outlet of this lake.</p>
+
+<p>“In Central East Africa is a lake system of vast extent. Victoria Nyanza
+is about 250 miles long, surrounded mostly with hills and mountains, from
+300 to 6,000 feet high. It contains many islands, and numerous large
+rivers empty into it. It is nearly 4,000 feet above the sea, and, with
+its rivers, constitutes the principal and most southern source of the
+Nile. The equator crosses its northern end. It is nearly as large as Lake
+Superior.</p>
+
+<p>“West of this, about 200 miles, is the Albert Nyanza, 400
+miles<!--471.png--><span class="pagenum">462</span>
+long,
+and 2,720 feet above the level of the sea. This receives the outlet of
+the Victoria; and from this the Nile bursts forth, a large river, and
+runs its course of nearly 3,000 miles to the Mediterranean Sea.</p>
+
+<p>“Albert is nearly three times as large as Lake Erie.</p>
+
+<p>“South and west of these two lakes are numerous smaller ones&mdash;some of
+them very beautiful&mdash;all emptying into the Victoria Nyanza, or “Big
+Water.”</p>
+
+<p>“South of these, and separated by a mountain ridge, is Lake Tanganyika,
+380 miles long and very deep, from twelve to forty miles wide, surrounded
+by mountains 2,000 to 5,000 feet high. It is 2,756 feet above the sea.
+Till about 1875 it was an internal sea, receiving large rivers, but
+having no outlet, as proven by Stanley, who circumnavigated it on purpose
+to settle this point. But near midway, on the west, was a low place,
+where the bank was only three feet above the water. And here, after
+steadily rising for ages, it broke over, and cut a channel to the Congo,
+into which it now empties, in a deep, rapid stream.</p>
+
+<p>“West and south of this is a series of lakes, connected with the great
+Congo River. The most southerly, in latitude 13&deg; or 14&deg;, is Bangweola,
+about 175 miles long and sixty wide. (Dr. Livingstone, in his last
+journey, crossed this from the north and died in the marsh on its
+southern border, May 4, 1873.) This empties into Lake Moero, nearly 3,000
+feet above the sea.</p>
+
+<p>“North and west of this are a number of other lakes, all emptying into
+and swelling the mighty Congo.</p>
+
+<p>“Northeast of Victoria are other large lakes, as reported by the natives,
+but not yet accurately delineated. Thomson has lately discovered one
+6,000 feet above the sea.</p>
+
+<p>“Southeast of Tanganyika, about 250 miles, is Nyassa Lake, 300 miles
+long, first definitely described by Dr. Livingstone. This is 1,800 feet
+above the sea. There is a small steamer on this lake&mdash;as also on Victoria
+and Tanganyika. And steamers are briskly plying up and down the Congo.</p>
+
+<p>“Ere many years there will be a railroad from Nyassa to Tanganyika&mdash;an
+easy route&mdash;and from Zanzibar to the great lakes&mdash;a more difficult route.
+The pressing demands of trade insure these
+results.<!--472.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_463" id="Page_463">463</a></span>
+A wagon road is
+already partly constructed between the two lakes, making a speedier,
+safer and easier route to the interior via Zambesi and Shir&eacute; Rivers,
+Lakes Nyassa and Tanganyika, with a land carriage of only seventy-five
+miles between the rapids on the Shir&eacute; and Lake Nyassa.”</p>
+
+<p>That portion of Africa below the tropics, and known in general as South
+Africa, has resources of animal, forest, soil, climate, water and mineral
+which have proved inviting to Europeans, though there is nothing to
+render them any more acceptable than similar features as found in other
+sub-tropical or temperate latitudes, excepting, perhaps, the peculiar
+mineral deposits in the Kimberly section, which yield diamonds of great
+value, and a richness of animal life which formerly proved fascinating to
+the hunter and adventurer.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;">
+<img src="images/i_463.jpg" width="700" height="350"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NATIVE RAT TRAP.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The belt extending clear across the continent from Angola and Benguela,
+south of the Congo, to the mouth of the Zambesi, and which is a water
+shed between the Congo basin and rivers running southward, till the
+great valley of the Zambesi is reached, has all the peculiarities of
+soil, climate, forest and people found in the Congo basin. Its tribes,
+according to Pinto, are of the same general type as those further
+north. The rivers abound in hippopotami and crocodiles, the forests in
+antelope and buffaloes, elephants, lions and wild birds. There is the
+same endless succession of wooded valleys and verdure clad plains, and
+the same products under cultivation. The natives are if anything better
+skilled in the uses
+of<!--473.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_464" id="Page_464">464</a></span>
+iron, and are more ingenious in turning it to
+domestic account, as in the manufacture of utensils, traps and other
+conveniences. They are natural herdsmen, dress better, at least more
+fantastically, perpetuate all of the native superstitions, and are more
+confirmed traders, having for a longer time been in remote contact with
+the Portuguese influence penetrating the Zambesi, and extending inland
+from Loanda and Benguela.</p>
+
+<p>We therefore turn to Equatorial, or Central Africa, in quest of those
+resources which are distinguishing, and which give to the continent its
+real value in commercial eyes. And in so doing, there is no authority
+superior to that of Stanley, whose opportunity for observation has been
+greatest. We can readily detect in his narrative the enthusiasm of a
+pioneer, but at the same time must feel persuaded that fuller and more
+exact research, and, especially the supreme trial to which commercial
+development puts all things natural, will far more than verify his first
+impressions.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 418px;">
+<img src="images/i_464.png" width="418" height="347"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AFRICAN HATCHET.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This Africa is typed by the Congo Basin, which stretches practically
+across Africa, interweaving with the Zambesi water system on the south
+and the Nile system on the north. The Congo is the feature of its
+basin, and the kernel of the greatest
+commercial<!--474.png--><span class="pagenum">465</span>
+problem of the age.
+To understand it, is to understand more of African resource than any
+other natural object furnishes. It has its maritime region, which is the
+African rind before alluded to. This region extends from Banana Point
+at the mouth of the great river to Boma, seventy miles from the sea,
+and the river passes through it in the form of a broad deep estuary. At
+Boma the hilly, mountainous region commences, the groups of undulations
+rising gradually to a height of 2000 feet above the sea. The river is
+still navigable in this region, up to Vivi, 110 miles from the sea,
+though the channel is reduced to a width of 1500 yards. From Vivi to
+Isangila, a distance of fifty miles, is the lower series of Livingstone
+Falls. From Isangila to Manyanga is a navigable stretch of eighty-eight
+miles. Then comes the upper series of Livingstone Falls, extending for
+eighty-five miles, from Manyanga to Leopoldville, on Stanley Pool. This
+practically brings the mighty flood through the mountainous region of 240
+miles in width, and opens a navigable stretch of 1068 miles, extending
+from Stanley Pool to Stanley Falls. From Stanley Falls to Nyangwe, in the
+fruitful country of the Manyuema, a nation in themselves, and notorious
+in Central Africa for their valor and cruelty in war, is a course of 385
+miles, navigable for light craft. From Nyangwe to Lake Moero the river
+course is 440 miles. This lake is sixty-seven miles long. Thence is a
+river stretch of 220 miles to Lake Bangweola which is 161 miles long.
+It then begins to lose itself in its head waters in the Chibal&eacute; Hills,
+though its main affluent here, the Chambesi, has a length of 360 miles.
+This gives a total length of main stream equal to 3034 miles. It divides
+itself into five geographic sections; the maritime section, from the sea
+to Leopoldville; the Upper Congo section, extending from Leopoldville
+to Stanley Falls; the Lualaba (so called by Livingstone) section from
+Stanley Falls to the Chambesi; the Chambesi, or head water section; and
+the Tanganyika section.</p>
+
+<p>The first section, which includes the really maritime and the
+mountainous, is, in its lower part next to the sea, but thinly populated,
+owing to the slave trade and the effect of internal wars. But the natives
+are, as a rule, tractable and amenable to improvement and discipline.
+They are industrious and perfectly willing to
+hire<!--475.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_466" id="Page_466">466</a></span>
+themselves as
+porters. In its mountainous part, the country is composed of swells of
+upland separated by gorges and long, winding water courses, showing that
+the land has been gradually stripped for centuries of its rich loam by
+the tropical rains. On the uplands are groves of palm and patches of
+tropical forest. In the hollows are rich vegetable products, so thick as
+to be impenetrable. The round-nut, palm-nut, rubber, gum-copal, orchilla,
+and various other articles of commerce, are natural products of this
+section.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 557px;">
+<img src="images/i_466.jpg" width="557" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NATIVES RUNNING TO WAR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Through the second section the Congo sweeps in the shape of an ox-bow,
+1068 miles, crossing the Equator twice. Here is
+that<!--476.png--><span class="pagenum">467</span>
+mighty system of
+tributaries which more than double the navigable waters of the great
+basin. On the south are the Kwa, navigable up to Lake Leopold II, a
+distance of 281 miles; the Lukanga with its shores lined with shrewd
+native traders; the Mohindu, navigable for 650 miles; the Ikelemba, seat
+of the Bakuti tribe, navigable for 125 miles; the Lulungu, reported to
+be more populous than the Congo, navigable for 800 miles; the Lubiranzi,
+navigable for twenty-five miles.</p>
+
+<p>On the north side is the Lufini, navigable for thirty miles; the Alima,
+navigable for fifty miles; the Likuba, with fifty miles of navigation;
+the Bunga, 150 miles; the Balui, 350, the Ubanga and Ngala, 450 miles,
+together; the Itimbiri, 250 miles; the Nkuk&ugrave;, sixty miles; the Biyerre
+ninety-six miles; the Chofu, twenty-five miles.</p>
+
+<p>This section alone, therefore, gives a direct steam mileage of 5250
+miles, and the rivers drain an area of over 1,000,000 square miles.
+Stanley says the wealth of Equatorial Africa lies in this section. It is
+cut by the Equator, whose rain-belt discharges showers for ten months in
+the year. North and south from the Equator, the dry periods are longer.
+The population of the section, Stanley estimates to be 43,500,000. His
+observations were, of course, confined to the river districts, but other
+travelers confirm his estimates. Weissman says of the Lubilash country,
+“It is densely peopled and some of the villages are miles in length. They
+are clean, with commodious houses shaded by oil-palms and bananas, and
+surrounded by carefully divided fields in which, quite contrary to the
+usual African practice, man is seen to till the fields while women attend
+to household offices. From the Lubilash. to the Lumani there stretches
+almost uninterruptedly a prairie region of great fertility, the future
+pasture grounds of the world. The reddish loam, overlying the granite,
+bears luxuriant grass and clumps of trees, and only the banks are densely
+wooded. The rain falls during eight months of the year, from September to
+April, but they are not excessive. The temperature varies, from 63&deg; to
+81&deg;, but occasionally, in the dry season, falls as low as 45&deg;.”</p>
+
+<p>The southeastern portion of this section is, on the authority of Tippoo
+Tib, who doubtless ranged it more extensively than
+any<!--477.png--><span class="pagenum">468</span>
+other man,
+dotted with villages, some of which took him two hours to pass through.
+The country is a succession of prairies and parks, of rare fertility
+and beauty. On the north and northeast of this section is the residence
+of the Monbuttus, Niam-Niams and Dinkas, all powerful tribes, living
+in comparative peace, having neat villages surrounded by fruitful
+plantations, lovers of the chase, rich in herds of fine cattle, skilled
+in the manufacture of spears and utensils of iron, experts in pottery
+making and ornamentation, light of form but wonderfully agile, a copper
+rather than black color, and very numerous. Says Sweinfurth, “From the
+Well&eacute; river to the residence of the Monbuttu king, Munza, the way leads
+through a country of marvellous beauty, an almost unbroken line of the
+primitively simple dwellings extending on either side of the caravan
+route.” The Niam-Niam country alone he estimates at 5400 square miles in
+extent, with a population of 2,000,000 which would give the extraordinary
+rate of 370 to the square mile.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley’s own observation on the Mohindu and Itimbiri river fully
+confirmed the story of Miyongo respecting the Lulungu, that the further
+he traveled from the banks of the river the thicker he would find the
+population.</p>
+
+<p>All of this immense section is capable of the richest and most varied
+vegetable productions. True, until intercourse comes about by steam,
+or otherwise, but little use can be made of these products, yet there
+they are in abundance now, and susceptible of infinite additions under
+the care of intelligent tillage. There is an almost infinite variety
+of palms, the most useful of which is the oil-palm, whose nut supplies
+the dark-red palm oil, which has proved such a source of wealth in the
+Oil-river regions of the Niger country and on the west coast in general.
+The kernel of these nuts makes an oil-cake which is excellent for
+fattening and conditioning cattle. This palm towers in every forest grove
+and beautifies every island in the rivers. In many places it constitutes
+the entire forest, to the exclusion of trees of harder wood and sturdier
+growth. As each tree yields from 500 to 1000 nuts, some idea of the
+commercial value of each can be gathered.</p>
+
+<p>Another valuable plant in commerce and one which abounds in this section
+is the India rubber plant. It is of three kinds, all
+of<!--478.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_469" id="Page_469">469</a></span>
+them prolific,
+and all as yet untouched. Stanley estimates that enough india rubber
+could be gathered on the islands of the Congo and in the adjacent
+forests on the shores, in one year, to pay for the construction of a
+Congo railway. Then there are other gums, useful for varnishes, as the
+white and red opal. These are gathered and treasured by the natives of
+the fishing villages, and used as torches while fishing, but they know
+nothing of their value in the arts. Vegetable oils are extracted from
+the ground-nut, the oil-berry and the castor plant. The ground-nut oils
+are used by the natives for lights, the extract of the oil-berry is used
+for cooking, while the castor-oils are used as medicine, just as with
+civilized people.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_469.jpg" width="600" height="365"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">UBANGI BLACKSMITHS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Whole areas of forest are covered with dense canopies of orchilla, useful
+as a dye, and every village has a supply of red-wood powder. But in
+nothing are the forests and plains of this immense section so remarkable
+as in the variety and quality of the vegetation capable of producing
+commercial fibres. Here are endless supplies of paper material, rope
+material, material for baskets, mattings and all kinds of cloths, such as
+we now make of hemp and jute.</p>
+
+<p>The more industrious and ingenious tribes run to specialties in turning
+luxuriant nature into account. The red-wood powder of Lake Mantamba is
+counted the best. Iboco palm-fibre
+matting<!--479.png--><span class="pagenum">470</span>
+ranks as the jute textiles of
+Scotland. The Irebu are the Japanese sun-shade and floor-mat makers. The
+Yalulima are artists in the manufacture of double bells. The Ubangi are
+the Toledo sword-makers of Africa. How bountiful their supply of iron is
+remains to be ascertained, but it is presumably a plentiful mineral, and
+its use among these people, not to say numerous other tribes, is evidence
+that the stone age of Africa was past, long before the heathen of Europe
+and America had ceased to strike fire by flints in their chilly caverns,
+or crush one another’s skulls with granite tomahawks. The iron spears and
+swords of some of these African tribes are models in their way, keen as
+Damascus blades and bright as if mirrored on Sheffield emery wheels.</p>
+
+<p>One of the comforts of civilization, the buffalo robe, is fast becoming
+a thing of the past. Africa may yet furnish a supply, or at least a
+valuable skin for tanning purposes, out of the numerous herds of buffalo
+which are found everywhere in this great central section. The kings
+and chiefs of the African tribes affect monkey skin drapery as royal
+dresses. If they knew the favor in which similar dresses were held upon
+our boulevards, they might take contracts to supply the fashionable
+outside world for generations, and thereby enrich themselves. Our
+tanneries, furrier-shops and rug-makers would go wild with delight over
+African invoices of goat-skins, antelope hides, lion and leopard skins,
+if annual excursions of traders and hunters could be sent to the Upper
+Congo country, at the cost of a through passage on an express train. And
+how our milliners would rejoice over the beauty and variety of bonnet
+decorations if they could reduce to possession even a tithe of the
+gorgeous plumage which flits incessantly through the forest spaces of
+tropical Africa.</p>
+
+<p>Then where in Africa is there not honey, sweet as that of Hybla or
+Hymettus, with its inseparable product, bees-wax? Not all the perfumes
+of Arabia nor of the Isles of the Sea can equal in volume and fragrance
+the frankincense and myrrh of the Congo region. As to ivory, Stanley
+estimates the elephant herds of the Congo basin at 15,000 in number,
+each herd numbering twelve to fifteen elephants&mdash;a total of 200,000
+giants, each one walking about with fifty pounds of ivory in his head,
+or 10,000,000 pounds in
+all,<!--481.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_472" id="Page_472">472</a></span>
+worth in the rough $25,000,000, or when
+manufactured, a sum sufficient to enrich a kingdom. Nor does he consider
+this estimate too large, for he had met travelers who had seen as many
+as 300 elephants in a single herd, and who had killed so many that their
+carcasses blocked the stream they were crossing. Major Vetch had killed
+twenty in one locality, and a missionary, Mr. Ingham, had, more in a
+self-supporting than in a sporting spirit, shot twenty-five and turned
+their tusks into money. For a century, the ivory trade has been an
+important one on the eastern coast of Africa, yet the field of supply has
+only been skirted.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_471.jpg" width="600" height="351"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NATIVES KILLING AN ELEPHANT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>But civilization must tap and destroy this source of wealth, unless parks
+could be preserved and elephants reared for the sake of their ivory.
+Wonderful as are his figures respecting this resource, Stanley regards
+it as of little moment in comparison with other resources of the great
+basin. It would not equal in commercial value the pastime of the idle
+warriors of the basin, if each one were to find such in the picking of
+a third of a pound of rubber a day for a year, or in the melting of
+two-thirds of a pound of palm-oil, for then the aggregate of either would
+exceed $25,000,000 in value, and nature would be none the poorer for the
+drain upon her resources. The same could be said if each warrior picked
+half a pound of gum-copal per day, collected half a pound of orchilla, or
+ground out half a pound of red-wood powder.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley, and indeed all explorers of Central Africa, are convinced that
+iron ore abounds. It must be that the iron formations are manifest,
+for the natives are not given to mining, yet most of the tribes are
+iron-workers, patient and skillful, according to the unanimous testimony
+of travelers, and as the trophies sent home testify. Near Phillipville
+are copper mines which supply a large portion of Western Africa with
+copper ingots. Among the Manyanga tribes, copper ingots are a commodity
+as common as vegetables and fowls. To the southeast of the Upper Congo
+section are copper supplies for the numerous caravans that find ingress
+and egress by way of the Zambesi. Both Livingstone and Pinto found tribes
+on the Upper Zambesi who were skillful copper-smiths. It is known that
+black-lead exists in the Congo region. It has ever been a dream that
+Africa possessed rich gold fields. Though
+this<!--482.png--><span class="pagenum">473</span>
+dream was early dispelled
+as to the Gold Coast, it appertains as to other regions, for the roving
+Arabs are accustomed to return from their inland visits bearing bottles
+filled with gold dust, which they say they have filled from the beds of
+streams which they crossed.</p>
+
+<p>Every observer can inform himself as to the agricultural resources of
+Central Africa. It is an exception on the Upper Congo, and for that
+matter anywhere in Central Africa, to find a village without its cleared
+and cultivated plats for maize and sugarcane, and some of these plats
+have the extent and appearance of well-ordered plantations. Everywhere
+the banana and plantain flourish, and yield a bountiful supply of
+wholesome, nourishing food. Millet is grown among some tribes for the
+sake of the flour it yields; but everywhere on the main river the chief
+dependence for a farinaceous diet is on the manioc plant, which yields
+the tapioca of commerce. The black bean grows almost without cultivation,
+and yields prolifically.</p>
+
+<p>There is hardly anything in the vegetable line that does not find a
+home in tropical Africa. The sweet-potato grows to immense size, as do
+cucumbers, melons of all kinds, pumpkins, tomatoes, while cabbages, the
+Irish potato, the onion and other garden vegetables introduced from the
+temperate zone thrive in a most unexpected manner.</p>
+
+<p>Wherever the Arab traders and settlers have struck this section from the
+east they have introduced the cultivation of rice and wheat with success,
+and they have carried along the planting of the mangoe, lime, orange,
+lemon, pine-apple and guava, all of which take hold, grow vigorously and
+produce liberally. All of these last have been tried on the Congo with
+the greatest encouragement.</p>
+
+<p>Then there is practically no limit to the spice plants found growing
+naturally in the Congo section and capable of introduction. Ginger and
+nutmeg are quite common amid the rich plant growth of the entire section.
+As the immense prairie stretches of the Upper Congo and the Lake regions
+may at no distant day become the grazing ground for the world’s cattle
+supply, or the granary of nations, so the river bottoms, and the uplands
+as well, may become the cotton producing areas of the manufacturing
+world. Cotton is indigenous and grows everywhere. It is especially fond
+of
+the<!--483.png--><span class="pagenum">474</span>
+cleared spots which mark the site of deserted villages, and
+asserts itself to the exclusion of other vegetation. It has neither frost
+nor drought to contend with, and nature has given it a soil in which it
+may revel, without the requirement of sedulous cultivation.</p>
+
+<p>It may well be asked in connection with this section, what is there
+which civilization demands, or is used to, for its table, its factory,
+or store-house, that it does not produce, or cannot be made to produce?
+If it supports a population almost equal to that of Europe, a population
+without appliances for farming and manufacturing, a population of
+comparative idlers, what a surplus it might produce under intelligent
+management and with a moderate degree of industry. The native energy of
+Africa, even with the most advanced tribes, is sadly misdirected, or
+rather, not directed at all. The best muscle of every tribe is diverted
+to warlike pursuits or to the athleticism of the chase. Whilst it is
+not a rule that it is undignified for a full grown male to work, the
+customs are such as to attract him into other channels of effort, so
+that the burden of work is thrown upon the women. They are the vegetable
+gardeners, the raisers of fowls and goats, and in the cattle regions of
+the Upper Congo and Zambesi, they are the milk-maids, the calf-raisers
+and herd attendants. Therefore, African labor is today like African
+vegetation; it is labor run wild. It is a keen, excellent labor under the
+spur of reward, just as the African commercial sense is alive to all the
+tricks of trade. What it requires is instruction and proper direction,
+and with these one may find in tropical Africa a resource of far more
+value, both at home and abroad, than all the untold wealth of forest,
+soil or mine.</p>
+
+<p>We see and hear too little of the human resources of Africa. By this we
+do not mean that religion does not regard the African as a fit subject
+for conversion, nor that ethnology does not seek to study him as a
+curiosity, nor that commerce fails to use him as a convenience, nor
+that the lust of the Orient has ceased to discuss him as a source of
+gratification, but we do mean that with all the writing about African
+resources and possibilities, the fertility of soil, the luxuriance
+of forest, the plenitude of minerals, the exuberance of animal life,
+there is but meagre discussion of the place the native himself is to
+fill, considered also in the light of a
+natural<!--484.png--><span class="pagenum">475</span>
+resource. While we
+grow infatuated with descriptions of African wealth and possibility, we
+almost skip the mightiest problem Africa can reveal, the relationship
+its own people are to bear to its material development, their status
+as factors in unfolding the inner continent to the outer world. The
+eyes of commercial and manufacturing Europe are so set upon the main
+advantage, to wit, that of grabbing African lands and appropriating at
+a cheap rate whatever is accessible, as to overlook the future of the
+native. Our own eyes have been so dimmed by the melancholy sight of the
+North American Indian fading away before our boasted civilization, or
+by sight of the sons of Africa forced into degradation at the behest of
+hard-hearted greed, as that they are actually blind to the human factor
+in African enterprise. With all our respect for civilization, it must
+be confessed that it has failed signally to use to advantage what it
+found God-made and at hand, when it struck new continents and islands.
+It has destroyed and supplanted, as on the American continents, the
+Pacific islands, in Southern Africa, in the East Indies. Is that to be
+the role of civilization in Central Africa? Does not that continent
+present a higher and more humanitarian problem? Driven to desperation
+by a baffling climate, yet spurred by an inordinate cupidity, will not
+the civilization of the white man be compelled to the exercise of a
+genius which shall embrace the native populations, classify them as an
+indispensable resource, lift them to a plain of intelligent energy, look
+upon them as things of equality, and ultimately regard them as essentials
+in the art of progress and the race for development? We regard extinction
+of the African races as fatal to African development. There is no place
+in the world where the civilized commercial instinct crosses so directly
+the natural laws of the universe as in Africa. There is no place in the
+world where the ordinary forces of colonization are so nonplussed as
+in Africa. If we are to go ahead with our humanitarian and commercial
+and political problems in Africa, in the old fashioned, uncompromising,
+brutal way; if Africa is to be civilized by the rejection of Africans, by
+their extinction or degradation; then will civilization commit a graver
+mistake and more heinous crime than when it forced the Indian into the
+lava-bed, the Aztec into the Pacific or the Inca into bondage, and death
+in<!--485.png--><span class="pagenum">476</span>
+the mine. America has its race problem on hand, to be solved more
+by blacks than whites. Africa presents the same problem to the world.
+Whatever the white man may make out of African resource by following the
+usual formula of civilization, reduction, extirpation and so on, on the
+unchristian plea that the end justifies the means, that result can be
+safely increased a thousand times if only it is not forgotten that the
+native is the true, the natural, factor in any rational and permanent
+scheme of development.</p>
+
+<p>The next section of Central Africa which comes under observation is
+that which is watered by the Lualaba, or in other words, the Congo,
+from Stanley Falls to Lake Bangweola. This is an immense section,
+embracing 246,000 square miles, or a length of 1260 miles. This section
+comprehends the several lakes on the Lualaba and the drainage system on
+both sides of that river, but excluding Tanganyika, and that part of the
+reservoir system known as the Muta Nzig&eacute;. Lake Bangweola covers 10,000
+square miles; Lake Moero, 2,700 square miles; and Lake Kassali, 2,200
+square miles. From Stanley Falls to Nyangw&eacute; is 327 miles, all navigable,
+except the six miles below Nyangw&eacute;. On the right side, going up, the
+Lualaba receives the Leopold river, navigable for thirty miles; the
+Lowa, navigable for an unknown distance; the Ulindi, 400 yards wide, and
+navigable; the Lira, a deep, clear stream, 300 yards wide; the Luama, 250
+miles long; the Luigi, and Lukuga, the latter being the outlet of Lake
+Tanganyika.</p>
+
+<p>On the left side, the Lualaba receives the Black River, the Lumani, and
+the Kamolondo. Above Nyangw&eacute;, the main stream is again navigable to
+Moero Lake. Altogether there are 1,100 miles of navigable water in this
+section. It has, for twenty years, been a favorite stamping ground for
+slave traders, and its population has therefore been greatly decimated,
+yet Stanley estimates it at 6,000,000, embraced in nine principal and
+many subordinate tribes. On the Lower Lualaba are four important trading
+points, long used by the Arabs for their nefarious purposes, and all
+readily accessible to the eastern coast of Africa, over well defined
+routes. These points are Kasongo, Nyangw&eacute;, Vibondo, and Kirundu. They are
+even more accessible from the west coast by way of the Congo, and Stanley
+regards them as valuable points for the
+gathering<!--486.png--><span class="pagenum">477</span>
+and dissemination of
+trade, since their populations have had twenty years of experience in
+traffic with outsiders. With their assistance the fine herds of cattle
+reared by the tribes of the plains east of the Lualaba might be brought
+to that river, and distributed along the entire length of the Congo, or
+even carried to European markets. This section is just as rich in natural
+products as that of the Upper Congo, and of the same general character.</p>
+
+<p>The Chambesi is the main stream pouring into Lake Bangweola. Stanley
+makes it give a name to the section which embraces the head-waters of
+the Congo. It is a basin, walled in by high mountains whose sides and
+ravines furnish the springs of the Congo, and whose heights form the
+water-shed between the Congo and Zambesi. The Chambesi is a large,
+clear, swift stream, with several important affluents. It runs through
+a country, overgrown with papyrus, rushes, and tall grasses, which are
+most wearisome to the traveler. The country abounds in food, and the
+people are “civil and reasonable,” as Livingstone says. The interminable
+prairies are broken only by occasional rows of forest, indicative of a
+stream or ravine. Much of the land is inundated during the rainy season,
+giving rise to swamps of great extent and of difficult passage. Where
+this is not the case, the land affords rich pasturage for the herds of
+the Babisa and other tribes engaged in stock raising. This remote but
+interesting section is not over 46,000 miles in extent, with a population
+of 500,000.</p>
+
+<p>As Stanley depends on Livingstone for his description of the Chambesi and
+Upper Lualaba country, and as this region was the object of a special
+journey by Livingstone&mdash;unfortunately for science and humanity, his last
+journey&mdash;it is proper to get an impression of it from the great explorer
+himself.</p>
+
+<p>He started for it from Delagoa Bay, by way of the Rovuma river, which
+empties into Delagoa Bay, on the east coast nearly half way between the
+mouth of the Zambesi and Zanzibar. This river has its source well inland
+toward Lake Nyassa, and hence its ascent would bring him into the Lake
+region. All this ground has now become historic through the English and
+Portuguese struggle for its permanent possession.</p>
+
+<p>Though the last of Livingstone’s journeys it was his most
+hopeful.<!--487.png--><span class="pagenum">478</span>
+Says he:&mdash;“The mere animal pleasure of traveling in a wild, unexplored
+country is very great. When on lands of a couple of thousand feet
+elevation, brisk exercise imparts elasticity to the muscles, fresh and
+healthy blood circulates through the brain, the mind works well, the
+eye is clear, the step is firm, and the day’s exertion always makes the
+evening’s repose thoroughly enjoyable. We have usually the stimulus of
+remote chances of danger from man or beast. Our sympathies are drawn out
+toward our humble, hardy companions by a community of interests, and
+it may be of perils, which make us all friends. Nothing but the most
+pitiable puerility would lead any manly heart to make their inferiority
+a theme for self-exaltation. However, that is often done, as if with the
+vague idea that we can, by magnifying their deficiencies, demonstrate
+our own perfections. The effect of travel on a man whose heart is in
+the right place is, that the mind is made more self-reliant. It becomes
+more confident of its own resources&mdash;there is greater presence of mind.
+The body is soon well knit. The muscles of the limbs grow as hard as a
+board, and seem to have no fat. The countenance is bronzed and there is
+no dyspepsia. Africa is a most wonderful country for the appetite, and
+it is only when one gloats over marrow bones or elephants’ feet that
+indigestion is possible. No doubt much toil is involved, and fatigue
+of which travelers in the more temperate climes can form but a faint
+conception. But the sweat of one’s brow is no longer a curse when
+one works for God. It proves a tonic to the system and is actually a
+blessing. No one can truly appreciate the charm of repose unless he has
+undergone severe exertion.”</p>
+
+<p>Thus buoyantly he started for the interior, employing a retinue of human
+carriers and servants, and supplementing them with camels, mules and
+trained buffaloes. It was, in some respects, the most unique caravan of
+exploration that ever entered an unknown land. As to camels for carriers,
+away from the desert and through trackless jungle and forest, it was
+in the nature of an experiment which soon grew tiresome and ended in
+failure. As to the mules, they soon fell a prey to the tsetse fly. As
+to the buffaloes, which, together with the native oxen, had stood him
+in good stead through all his wanderings in the Kalahari desert, where
+they are in daily use
+as<!--489.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_480" id="Page_480">480</a></span>
+beasts of burden and the saddle by the natives,
+these too fell a victim to the merciless attack of the tsetse. He was
+therefore left with his two faithful attendants, Chuma and Susi, and his
+retinue of native carriers.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_479.jpg" width="600" height="381"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ON A JOURNEY IN THE KALAHARI DESERT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Passing through the wonderful country which borders the Rovuma, a
+country of peaceful tribes and plentiful products, with nothing more
+than the usual adventures of an African traveler, he at last arrived at
+Lake Nyassa. At this lake, Livingstone was on the west side of what is
+now known as the Mozambique territory, though it is more familiar as
+Nyassaland. The lake is part of the northern Zambesi water system, and
+its outlet into that stream is through the river Shir&eacute;. On account of the
+absence of boats, which were all in the hands of suspicious Arab slave
+merchants, he was forced to pass down the east side of the lake and cross
+over its outlet, the Shir&eacute;. It was by the waters of this beautiful river
+and the Zambesi that Livingstone always hoped to secure an easy access to
+Central Africa. The only obstacles then were the foolish policy of the
+Portuguese with regard to custom duties at the mouth of the Zambesi, and
+the falls on the Shir&eacute; which obstruct its navigation for seventy miles.
+Had he lived a few more years he would have seen both of these obstacles
+in part overcome, and the mission work of Bishop Steere, supplementing
+that of Bishop Mackenzie, so far forward as to girdle the lake with
+prosperous mission stations. As Livingstone rounded the southern end of
+the lake, he could not help recalling the fact that far down the Shir&eacute;
+lay in its last sleep the body of the lamented Mackenzie, and that
+further down on the right bank of the Zambesi slept the remains of her
+whose death had changed all his future prospects. His prophecy that at
+no distant day civilization and the Gospel would assert itself in this
+promising land is now meeting with fulfillment in the claims of England
+to a right of way into Central Africa through this very region, at the
+expense of Portugal, whose older right has been forfeited by non-use.</p>
+
+<p>In striking westward from the lake, Livingstone found the people to be
+a modification of the great Waiyau branch, which extends from the lake
+to Mozambique. He was also impressed with the fact that but one stock
+inhabited all the country on the
+Zambesi,<!--490.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_481" id="Page_481">481</a></span>
+Shir&eacute;, Lake Nyassa and Lake
+Tanganyika, owing to the slight difference in their dialects. The first
+tribe he came in contact with were both pastoral and agricultural. Their
+cattle ranged over grassy, fertile plains, and were characterized by the
+large hump on the shoulders, which seemed, in some instances, to weigh
+as much as a hundred pounds. They cultivated very fine gardens, and all
+seemed to work, though the burden of labor fell on the slaves. Wild
+animals were plenty, and during Livingstone’s stay in the village a woman
+was carried away and wholly devoured by a lion.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_481.jpg" width="600" height="604"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">WOMEN CARRIERS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In passing westward to the next village, his escort consisted of a large
+party of Waiyau, accompanied by six women carriers, who bore supplies
+for their husbands, a part of which consisted of native beer. His
+course brought him upon that peculiarity of soil which characterizes
+all the head streams of the Shire county, the Zambesi and the Congo. He
+designates it as earth sponge. The
+vegetation<!--492.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_483" id="Page_483">483</a></span>
+about the streams falls
+down, but is not incorporated with the earth. It forms a rich, black
+loamy mass, two or three feet thick which rests on the sand of the
+streams. When dry it cracks into gaps of two or three inches in width,
+but when wet it is converted into a sponge, which presents all the
+obstacles of a swamp or bog to the foot of the traveler.</p>
+
+<p>On this journey, he witnessed a native method of hunting with dogs
+and the basket trap. The trap is laid down in the track of some small
+animal and the dogs are put on the trail. The animal in its flight runs
+into the open mouth of the trap, and through a set of converging bamboo
+splits which prevent its return. Mice and rats are caught in similarly
+constructed traps, which are made of wire instead of wood. A similar
+method of catching wild animals of larger growth was formerly in vogue
+in the southern Zambesi section. Long leads of wattled palisading were
+erected, open at the base and gradually narrowing to an apex, in which
+a pit was dug covered over with a layer of grass. Hunters scoured the
+plains in extended circles, beating in all the game within the circles.
+The frightened beasts, pushed by the gradually closing hunters and
+demoralized by their antics and noises, rush into the trap prepared for
+them and fall helplessly into the pit, where they are captured. This
+method of hunting is called “<i>hopo</i>.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_482.jpg" width="600" height="345"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">DRIVING GAME INTO THE HOPO.</span>
+<a href="images/i_482x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_484.jpg" width="600" height="348"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PIT AT END OF HOPO.</span>
+<a href="images/i_484x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>The village he reached was inhabited by the Manganza, who are extremely
+clever in the art of manufacture. Their looms turn out a strong
+serviceable cotton cloth. Their iron weapons show a taste for design
+not equalled by any of their neighbors, and it is the same with all
+implements relating to husbandry. Though far better artisans than the
+more distinctive Waiyau, they are deficient in dash and courage. He was
+now at an elevation of 4,000 feet above the sea, in the midst of a very
+fine country, where the air was delightfully clear and delicious. The
+cultivation was so general, and the fields so regularly laid out, that
+it required but little imagination to picture it as an English scene.
+The trees were only in clumps, and marked the tops of ridges, the sites
+of villages or the places of sepulture. The people go well armed with
+bows and arrows, and fine knives of domestic manufacture, and being great
+hunters they have pretty well rid their section of game. The
+women<!--494.png--><span class="pagenum">485</span>
+wear
+their hair long, dress in reasonably full clothing, and have somewhat the
+appearance of the ancient Egyptians.</p>
+
+<p>The westward journey brought him to the Kanthunda people, partly
+plain-dwellers and partly mountaineers. They are very pompous and
+ceremonious. Food was found in plenty, raised by their own hands, since
+game was well nigh extinct. The villages were now very frequent, mostly
+situated in groves composed of large trees. The country was broken into
+high ranges of hills with broad valley sweeps between. The thermometer
+frequently sank to 64&deg; at night, but the sun was intolerably hot during
+the day, necessitating short journeys.</p>
+
+<p>All this time Livingstone had been passing westward through the system
+which drains either into Lake Nyassa or directly into the Zambesi. His
+objective being the basin which supplies the head streams of the Congo,
+he turned his journey northward in the direction of the mountains which
+divide the two great river systems.</p>
+
+<p>The tribes he now struck were greatly harassed by the Mazuti, who stole
+their corn annually and made frequent raids for the capture of slaves.
+Yet they were hospitable and prosperous, being skillful weavers and
+iron-workers. The country was mountainous, for he was on the divide
+between the waters which drain into Lake Nyassa and those which flow into
+the Loangwa on the west, the latter being an important affluent of the
+Zambesi. Striking the head-waters of the Lokushwa, a tributary of the
+Loangwa, he followed its course to the main stream, through a country of
+dwarf forests, and peoples collected in stockades, who were the smiths
+for a large region, making and selling hoes and other iron utensils.</p>
+
+<p>He crossed the Loangwa at a point where it is 100 yards wide, and in
+a country abounding in game. It was here that he indulged in those
+regretful thoughts respecting the gradual passing away of the magnificent
+herds of wild animals&mdash;zebras, elands, buffaloes, giraffes, gnus, and
+numerous species of deer and antelope&mdash;which once roamed all over Central
+and South Africa, down to the Cape of Good Hope, which are every year
+being thinned away, or driven northwards. The lion&mdash;the boasted king
+of animals&mdash;makes a poor figure beside the tsetse fly in travellers’
+records. The general impression about him is that, in spite of his
+formidable
+strength,<!--496.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_487" id="Page_487">487</a></span>
+his imposing roaring, and his majestic mane, he
+is a coward and a skulker. Livingstone had a hearty contempt for the
+brute, though in his time he had been severely mauled and bitten by
+him. The lion, however, when sore pressed by hunger, has been known to
+pluck up sufficient courage to tear off the flimsy roof of a native hut
+and leap down upon the sleeping inmates. The elephant&mdash;a much grander
+animal in every respect&mdash;occasionally performs a similar feat, his motive
+being curiosity, or perhaps mischief, if one of his periodical fits of
+ill-nature is upon him. A sight may now and again be got of a roaming
+rhinoceros tramping stolidly with surly gruntings through the depths of
+the thicket: a glade will be suddenly opened up where a group of shaggy
+buffaloes are grazing; or a herd of startled giraffes will break away in
+a shambling gallop, their long necks swinging ungracefully to and fro, as
+they crash their way through the forest, like “locomotive obelisks.” Now
+and then a shot may be got at a troop of zebras, pallahs, wild beeste, or
+other big-game animals, and the scanty larder be replenished for a time;
+but the traveler must often lay his account with being absolutely in want
+of food, and be fain, like Livingstone, to draw in his belt an inch or
+two in lieu of dinner.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_486.jpg" width="600" height="347"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">CAPSIZED BY A HIPPOPOTAMUS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>But the most gallant sport in these regions&mdash;excelling in danger and
+excitement even elephant-hunting&mdash;is the chase of the hippopotamus.
+On the Loangwa Livingstone met an entire tribe, the Makomwe, devoted
+exclusively to hippopotamus hunting. They reside in temporary huts on the
+islands, and when game gets scarce in one place they move to another.
+The flesh of the animals they kill is exchanged for grain brought to
+the river by the more settled tribes. In hunting, two men have charge
+of a long, shapely canoe. The men, one in the bow and one in the stern,
+use short, broad paddles, and as they guide the canoe down the river
+upon the sleeping hippopotamus, not a ripple is seen on the water. The
+paddlers seem to be holding their breaths and communicate by signs only.
+As they near their prey, the harpooner in the bow, lays down his paddle,
+rises slowly up, with his harpoon poised in his hand, and at the right
+moment plunges it into the animal near the heart. His companion in the
+stern now backs the canoe. At this stage there is little danger, for
+the beast remains for a time at the bottom of
+the<!--497.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_488" id="Page_488">488</a></span>
+river. But soon his
+surprise is over, the wound begins to smart, he feels the need of air,
+through exhaustion. The strong rope attached to the harpoon has a float
+fastened to one end, and this float designates the spot occupied by the
+beast. It is known that he will soon come to the surface, and the canoe
+now approaches the float, the harpooner having another harpoon poised in
+hand ready for a second throw. The situation is full of danger. Perhaps
+the second lunge is successful, but the beast generally comes up with an
+angry bellow and is ready to smash the canoe in his enormous jaws. Woe
+betide the occupants, unless they seek safety in the water. This they
+are often forced to do, but even then are not safe, unless they swim
+below the surface. Other canoes now come up and each one sends an harpoon
+into the body of the prey. Then they all begin to pull on the connecting
+ropes, dragging the beast hither and thither, till it succumbs through
+loss of blood. Swarms of crocodiles invariably crowd about the scene,
+attracted by the scent of the bleeding carcass.</p>
+
+<p>The people he met with after passing the Loangwa were less civil, yet by
+no means hostile. The forests were of larger growth and more extensive.
+Animal life was rich in variety, as much so as on the Zambesi itself, and
+it was nothing unusual to bring down a gnu, an eland, and other royal
+animals in the same day. The country was a wide valley stretch, clothed
+with vegetation and very fertile. It reached to the Lobemba country,
+whose people are crafty and given to falsehoods. They are fond of hunting
+and attack the elephant with dogs and spears. The land is beautiful and
+fruitful, but the tribes have been torn by slave-raiders and intestinal
+wars.</p>
+
+<p>The Babisa people, further north, are franker and better off. They
+trade without urging, and are given to much social gaiety. Livingstone
+witnessed in their midst the performance of the rain dance by four
+females, who appeared with their faces smeared, with war hatchets in
+their hands, and singing in imitation of the male voice. These people
+degenerate as the northern brim of the Loangwa valley is approached, and
+are dependent for food on wild fruits, roots and leaves.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_489.jpg" width="600" height="377"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">HUNTER’S PARADISE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Passing further up among the head-streams of the Loangwa,
+the<!--499.png--><span class="pagenum">490</span>
+country
+becomes a succession of enormous earth waves, sustaining a heavy growth
+of jungle, without traces of paths. Marks of elephant and buffalo feet
+are frequent in the oozy soil about the streams, but the animals are shy.
+Serpents are plenty, and every now and then cobras and puff-adders are
+seen in the trails. The climate is delightful, bordering on cool, for now
+it must be understood, the elevation is high, the traveller being well up
+on the water-shed between the Congo and Zambesi.</p>
+
+<p>At length the mountain ranges are scaled, and the streams begin to run
+westward into the Chambesi, the main head stream of the Congo. The wet
+season dawns and all the rivulets are full. The sponge which composes
+their banks is soggy, so that the feet slip and are constantly wet. All
+around is forest, deep and luxuriant. The low tribes of the Babisa extend
+over the mountain tips and partly down the western slopes, carrying
+along their mean habits and showing the wreck occasioned by the Arab
+slave merchants. They could furnish only mushrooms and elephants to
+Livingstone, and these at fancy prices.</p>
+
+<p>It was here that Livingstone met with that mishap which contributed
+to his untimely end. His two Waiyau guides deserted, taking along his
+medicine chest. He felt as if he had received his death sentence, like
+poor Bishop Mackenzie, for the forest was damp and the rain almost
+incessant. From this time on, Livingstone’s constitution was continually
+sapped by the effect of fever-poison, which he was powerless to
+counteract.</p>
+
+<p>Livingstone was now clearly on the Congo water-shed and was making his
+way toward the Chambesi. The people were shrewd traders, but poorly
+off for food. Camwood and opal trees constituted the forests. There
+was an abundance of animal life. Pushing his way down the Movushi
+affluent, he at length reached the Chambesi, wending its way toward
+Lake Bangweola, in a westerly direction. It is a full running stream,
+abounding in hippopotami, crocodiles and lizards. A crossing was made
+with difficulty, and the journey lay through extensive flooded flats. The
+villages were now mostly in the lowlands and surrounded by stockades as
+a protection against wild beasts. Elephants and buffaloes were plenty.
+Lions frequently picked off the villagers, and two men were
+thus<!--501.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_492" id="Page_492">492</a></span>
+killed
+at the village of Molemba the day before Livingstone’s arrival. Forests
+were still deep and dark, but the gardens were large. At Molemba he met
+King Chitapangwa, who gave him the royal reception described elsewhere in
+this volume, and presented him with a cow, plenty of maize and calabashes
+and a supply of hippopotamus flesh. The king was one of the best natured
+men Livingstone had met. The huts literally swarmed with a bird, like the
+water wag-tail, which seemed to be sacred, as in the Bechuana country.
+Here too the boys were of a lively type and fond of sport. They captured
+smaller game and birds, but were not as skillful as the young people of
+Zulu and Bechuana land, where the kiri weapon is handled with so much
+skill. This kiri is made of wood or rhinoceros horn, and varies from a
+foot to a yard in length, having at one end a knob as large as a hen’s
+egg. It is often used in hand to hand conflicts, but is the favorite
+weapon of the hunter, who hurls it, even at game on the wing, with
+marvellous precision.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_491.jpg" width="600" height="392"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">BATLAPIN BOYS THROWING THE KIRI.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Livingstone did not descend into the lowlands on the lower Chambesi and
+about Lake Bangweola, but kept heading northward on the skirts of the
+Congo water-shed, in the direction of Tanganyika. He found about all the
+streams the spongy soil which so impeded his steps, the same alternations
+of hill and plain, forest and jungle. Everywhere were evidences of that
+gigantic and plentiful animal life which characterizes tropical Africa.
+To this wonderful exuberance was now added herds of wild hogs, whose
+leaders were even more formidable looking than the boars of the German
+forests.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_493.jpg" width="600" height="363"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PURSUIT OF THE WILD BOAR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In his course toward Tanganyika he passed the people of Moamba who
+import copper from Kantanga and manufacture it into a very fine wire for
+ornaments and animal traps. The Babemba villages were passed, a tribe
+living within close stockades, and more warlike than those to the south.
+The banana now begins to flourish, and herds of cattle denote a pastoral
+life. Tobacco is grown in quantities sufficient for a home supply.
+Hunting is carried on by means of the hopo hedges, within whose bounds
+the wild beasts are frightened by circles of hunters.</p>
+
+<p>In the Balungu country, Livingstone found Lake Liemba,
+amid<!--503.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_494" id="Page_494">494</a></span>
+a beautiful
+landscape. The chief, Kasongo, gave him a royal reception. He was
+gratified here to find men from Tanganyika. The lake is at the bottom
+of a basin whose sides are nearly perpendicular but tree-covered. Down
+over the rocks pour beautiful cascades, and buffaloes, elephants and
+antelopes wander on the more level spots, while lions roar by night.
+The villages are surrounded by luxuriant palm-oil trees, whose bunches
+of fruit grow so large as to require two men to carry them. The Balungu
+are an excessively polite people, but chary of information and loth to
+trade. This is because they have been so much raided by the Arabs and
+native Mazitu. The waters of this lake appeared to drain to the north
+into Tanganyika, but more probably by some other outlet to the Congo.
+Livingstone had never seen elephants so plenty as in this section. They
+came all about his camp and might be seen at any time eating reachable
+foliage, or grubbing lustily at the roots of small trees in order to
+prostrate them so as to get at their stems and leaves.</p>
+
+<p>At Mombo’s village were found cotton fields and men and women skilled in
+weaving. Elephants abounded and did much damage to the sorghum patches,
+and corn-safes. Leopards were destructive to the goat-herds. Bird life
+was even more various than on the Zambesi.</p>
+
+<p>Though weakened by fever, Livingstone determined to deflect westward
+toward Lake Moero, on the line of the Lualaba, and in the heart of the
+basin which gathers the Congo waters. The route lay through a prairie
+region, well watered by brisk streams. The Wasongo people have herds
+of cattle, which they house with care, and a plentiful supply of milk,
+butter and cheese. But they were frequently disturbed by Arab slave
+stealers, and their supplies of cattle were often raided by hostile
+neighbors.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_495.jpg" width="600" height="348"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">RAIDING THE CATTLE SUPPLY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It was here that Livingstone came upon the caravan of Tippoo Tib, who
+even at that date seems to have been a marauding genius, greatly feared
+by the natives for his craftiness and cruelty. The tribe of King Nsama
+proved to be an interesting one. “The people are regular featured
+and good looking, having few of the lineaments of their darker coast
+brethren. The women wear their hair in tasteful fashion and are of comely
+form.” King Nsama seemed
+to<!--506.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_497" id="Page_497">497</a></span>
+have been a Napoleon in the land, till about
+the time of Livingstone’s visit when he had received a Waterloo at the
+hand of the Arabs.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_496.jpg" width="600" height="383"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">HUNTING ZEBRAS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Livingstone now came to the Chisera river, a mile wide, and flowing into
+Lake Moero. The land on both sides of the stream sloped down to the
+banks in long, fertile stretches over which roamed elephants, buffaloes
+and zebras. The people were numerous and friendly. They find plenty of
+food in the large game which inhabits their district. There was the
+same plenty of zebras, buffalo and hippopotami over the flat stretch
+which brought him to the Kamosenga river. Crossing this stream he was
+in the country of the Karungu, who live in close stockades and are by
+nature timid. They were chary traders, though they had abundance of
+ivory and their granaries were filled with corn. It was all the result
+of intimidation by the Arab slavers; and, it must be remembered that
+Livingstone was following in the track of one of their caravans.</p>
+
+<p>Bending a little to the southwest the country was well wooded and
+peopled. Large game was still plenty and the natives captured an abundant
+supply of food. The Choma river was reached, abounding in hippopotami and
+crocodiles. The natives fled on the approach of the party and it was with
+difficulty that a supply of food could be bought. Beyond, and over a long
+line of hills, the natives became less timid. Here the party met a large
+herd of buffaloes from which a supply of meat was obtained.</p>
+
+<p>Their course now bore them to the Luao, flanked by granite hills which
+continue all the way to Moero. All the valleys in this part of the Congo
+basin are beautiful, reminding one of English or American scenery. The
+soil is very rich. The people live amid plenty, procured from their
+gardens and the chase. They would be friendly if left alone, but they can
+hardly be said to lead natural lives owing to the frequency and cruelty
+of Arab raids.</p>
+
+<p>As the lake is neared, the villages become more frequent. The lake is
+reached at last. It is a large body of water flanked by mountains on
+the east and west. The immediate banks are sand, skirted by tropical
+vegetation, in the midst of which the fishermen build their huts. There
+are many varieties of fish in the
+waters,<!--507.png--><span class="pagenum">498</span>
+and some of them are large
+and fine. At the north end is the outflow of the lake into the Lualaba
+river, whose continuation becomes the Congo. The inflow at the south
+end, Livingstone calls the Luapula, which name, he says, it keeps up to
+Lake Bangweola. Beyond that it is the Chambesi whose head-waters he had
+already crossed. West of the lake is the Rua country. The people about
+the lake are Babemba, timid to a fault and hard to trade with.</p>
+
+<p>Though reduced by fever, the infatuation of travel was so strong in
+Livingstone, that he turned southerly along the lake and struck for
+the unknown regions, about its southern end. He crossed an important
+tributary, the Kalongosi, whose waters were literally alive with fish,
+from the lake, seeking places to spawn. South of this stream the people
+are the Limda, not friendly disposed, yet not hostile. They are of
+the true negro type, and are great fishermen and gatherers of salt on
+the lake. The forests are not of rank growth, and the wood is chiefly
+bark-cloth and gum-opal, the latter exuding its gum in large quantities,
+which enters the ground and is preserved in large cakes for the use of
+future generations.</p>
+
+<p>The streams are now very frequent, and difficult to cross when swollen.
+After crossing the Limda he was in the Cassembe country, which is very
+rich and populous, growing the finest of palm-oil and ground-nuts. The
+capital village is in the centre of a plain, and is more a Mohammedan
+than a native town. As neither goats, sheep nor cattle thrive, the people
+depend on fish and vegetables for food. Every hut had a cassava garden
+about it, and honey and coffee were plenty, as were maize, beans and nuts.</p>
+
+<p>The Cassembe, take their name from the chief or ruler, who is a Pharaoh,
+or general, called the “Cassembe,” the ninth generation of which was on
+the throne when Livingstone was there. He gave him a royal reception,
+differing in many respects from all others which he had received.
+Cassembe had a dwarf, captured from some of the northern tribes, who
+figured as clown of the occasion. Then his wife appeared as a conspicuous
+mistress of ceremonies, preceded by men brandishing battle axes, beating
+on hollow instruments, and yelling at the crowd to clear the way. She was
+a comely looking personage of light color and regular features. In her
+hand were two enormous pipes filled ready for smoking.
+This<!--508.png--><span class="pagenum">499</span>
+procession
+was followed by the Cassembe, whose smile of welcome would have been
+captivating but for the fact that he was accompanied by his executioner,
+bearing a broad Limda sword and a large pair of scissors for cropping
+the ears of offenders. The queen is a thorough agriculturist, and pays
+particular attention to her fields of cassava, sweet-potatoes, maize,
+sorghum, millet, ground-nuts and cotton. The people as a whole are rough
+mannered and positively brutal among themselves. Livingstone spent a
+month among them, before he could get an escort to take him through the
+swamps to the southern end of Moero, which he was anxious to explore
+further.</p>
+
+<p>The Cassembe, like many other tribes on the head waters of the Congo,
+procure copper ore from Kantanga, on the west, and work it into
+bracelets, anklets and fine wire for baskets and traps. They have been
+visited time and again by the Portuguese. By and by Livingstone bade
+Cassembe farewell and pushed for the southern and western shores of the
+lake. He took views from many points on the Rua mountains and approached
+its shores at many points. At every shore approach there was a profusion
+of moisture and of tropical forests abounding in buffaloes and elephants,
+while the open spaces gave views of pasturing zebras. The latter had not
+yet become an object of chase as in the lands south of the Zambesi, where
+they give great sport to both native and foreign hunters and where so
+much of the larger game has been swept away by inconsiderate sportsmen.
+Lions and leopards were also plenty, and the camps had to be guarded
+nightly against them. The population about the lake is everywhere dense,
+and the fish supply limitless. Livingstone found the lake, at his various
+points of observation from the Rua heights, to be from 30 to 60 miles
+wide, and the natives claimed that it was larger than Tanganyika. They do
+not pretend to cross the lake in boats, deeming it too long and dangerous
+a journey, in a country where storms are frequent and the waters are apt
+to be lashed into fury by the winds.</p>
+
+<p>The circuit of Lake Moero, the almost continuous wading of swamps and
+crossing of swollen streams, the arrival at Cassembe again and the
+expression of a determination to go still further south into the swampy
+regions, to discover Lake Bemba, or
+Bangweola,<!--509.png--><span class="pagenum">500</span>
+instead of back to
+Tanganyika, where rest and medicine could be had, caused the desertion of
+Livingstone’s entire traveling force except his always faithful Chuma and
+Susi. But having attained the consent of Cassembe to proceed, and having
+re-equipped himself as best he could, he started for Bangweola, keeping
+parallel with the Luapula, but a day’s march away from its swamps.
+Even then, the crossing of the frequent tributaries made his journey
+tedious and dangerous. It was through a region of hill and vale, forest
+and plain, of varied geological formation. At many points he came upon
+developments of iron ore, which the natives worked and he had no doubt
+that this valuable mineral existed in abundance in this region. It ought
+to be remembered that the Kantanga copper region, whence all the eastern
+coast draws a supply, lies but a few days’ journey west of the Luapula,
+and in this part of the Congo basin.</p>
+
+<p>The people were the Banyamwezi, smart traders and given to lying like
+Greeks. They are populous, but having been raided by the Mazitu, many
+of their villages were deserted. Passing through their country, the
+land becomes flat and forest covered, and so continues all the way
+to Bangweola. The streams are all banked by the juicy sponge, before
+described, which make traveling so treacherous and tiresome. All the
+forests are infested with lions and leopards, necessitating the greatest
+care at night.</p>
+
+<p>It was January 18th, 1868, when Livingstone first set eyes on Lake
+Bangweola. The country around the lake is all flat and free from trees,
+except the mosikisi, which is spared for its dense foliage and fatty
+oil. The people have canoes and are expert fishermen. They are numerous,
+especially on the large islands of the lake. The variety of fish is
+numerous and some are taken which measure four feet in length. The bottom
+of the lake is sandy, and the shores reedy. During windy weather the
+waters become quite rough and dangerous. The islanders have herds of
+goats and flocks of fowls, and are industrious and peaceable, not given
+to curiosity, but sitting unconcernedly and weaving their cotton or
+knitting their nets, as a stranger passes by. According to Livingstone’s
+estimate this splendid body of water is some 150 miles long by 80 broad.
+The Lokinga mountains, extending from the southeast
+to<!--510.png--><span class="pagenum">501</span>
+the southwest are
+visible, and this range joins the Mokone range, west of Kantanga, which
+range is the water-shed between the Zambesi and Congo basins.</p>
+
+<p>The people are still the Banyamwezi. Besides being skilled in weaving
+cotton and in net-making, they are expert copper workers. In forging
+they use a cone-shaped hammer, without a handle. They use bellows, made
+of goat skin and wood. With these they smelt large ingots of copper in
+a pot, and pour it into moulds, which give a rough shape to the article
+they wish to forge.</p>
+
+<p>Livingstone’s observations in this section taught him that there was
+no such thing as a rainy zone, to account for the periodical rise of
+rivers like the Nile and Congo. From May to October is a comparatively
+dry season, and from October to May almost every day gave a thunder
+shower, but there is no such continuous down pour as has been imagined
+by meteorologists in Europe. He accounts for the humidity of both the
+Congo and Zambesi watersheds, by the meeting of the easterly and westerly
+winds in that section, thus precipitating the evaporations of both oceans
+in mid-Africa. It is certain that the Congo does not get its yellow hue
+from its head waters, for all the streams run clear even when swollen.
+The sponges, or bogs, which are so frequent are accounted for by the fact
+that some six to eight feet beneath the surface is a formation of sand
+which cakes at the bottom, thus holding up the saturated soil above and
+preventing the escape of the water. The same is true of large sections on
+the Zambesi, and especially in the Kalahari Desert, though the vegetable
+mould is wanting on the top. In that desert wells must be dug only so
+deep. If water does not come, they must be dug in another place. To
+puncture the substratum of caked sand is to make an escape for the water,
+and create a dearth in an entire drainage system. A peculiarity of the
+sponge everywhere is that it absorbs so much water as to keep the streams
+from flooding till long after the shower. Then they assume what would be
+an unaccountable flow, but for knowledge of the fact that it has taken
+several hours for the rain-fall to penetrate them. When traveling on the
+Limda, Livingstone had great trouble with his ox teams, which became
+invariably bogged in the sponges, and when they saw the
+clear<!--512.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_503" id="Page_503">503</a></span>
+sand in
+the centre of the streams, they usually plunged headforemost for it,
+leaving nothing in sight but their tails.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_502.jpg" width="600" height="376"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">DANGEROUS FORDING.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Livingstone’s return from Bangweola to Cassembe gave him no opportunity
+for observation, owing to the fact that the tribes were at war with one
+another, instigated by the Arabs, who were gathering a rich crop of
+slaves. Yet this misfortune was compensated in part by a return of his
+deserters to his service, on his arrival at Cassembe, thereby enabling
+him to continue his northward journey more comfortably, and to run the
+gauntlet of the contending tribes with greater safety.</p>
+
+<p>His journey to Tanganyika, arrival at Ujiji, sickness there, receipt of
+welcome stores from the coast, slow recovery, make a sad history, but
+does not add to our knowledge of the natural features and resources of
+the Congo region. However, our interest is again awakened in this heroic
+adventurer when we find him once more on his feet and resolved to visit
+the land of the Manyuema, off to the west and on the Lualaba, in the
+very heart of the Upper Congo valley, and the stamping ground of the
+now celebrated Tippoo Tib. The Manyuema country was then unknown, and
+Livingstone went in the trail of the first of those Arab hordes which
+ever visited it, but whose repeated visits in quest of ivory and slaves
+have carried murder, fire, theft and destruction to a once undisturbed,
+if not happy people.</p>
+
+<p>The journey lay from Kasenge, on the west coast of Tanganyika, near its
+middle, in a north-west direction to the great market town of Nyangwe, on
+the Lualaba, or Upper Congo. He found the route hilly but comparatively
+open. Villages were frequent and the natives friendly, till the Manyuema
+themselves were reached. There was an abundance of elephants and
+buffaloes, which kept them supplied with meat. Where forests grew, the
+trees were of gigantic proportions, and very dense, affording a complete
+escape for wild animals when exhausted or crippled in the chase. The
+native huts were of a superior kind, with sleeping apartments raised from
+the ground. The soil was fertile, and the cultivation of vegetables was
+general. On the route they came into the region of the oil-palm, which
+does not flourish eastward of this, but assumes a more gigantic growth as
+the western coast is approached.</p>
+
+<p><!--513.png--><span class="pagenum">504</span></p>
+
+<p>A little more than midway between Tanganyika and Nyangwe, is Bambarre,
+a flourishing village, surrounded by gardens, which the men help to
+cultivate, though all the other duties of farm and house are imposed upon
+the women, who are actual “hewers of wood and drawers of water” for the
+tribe. They made willing carriers, and are of comely form. Here the soko
+is believed to be a charm for rain. One was caught for meteorological
+purposes, with the result that the captor had the ends of two fingers
+and toes bitten off. Livingstone saw the nest of a soko, or gorilla,
+and pronounced it a poor architectural contrivance. A young soko,
+however, he regarded as the most wonderful object in nature, so ugly as
+to excite astonishment, yet so quaint as to stimulate curiosity. Like
+the kangaroo, it leaves one in doubt whether repulsion or attraction is
+uppermost in the mind when viewing it. In the vicinity are hot springs,
+and earthquakes are common, passing from east to west. The tribes of
+Bambarre hold the Manyuema in great fear, regarding them as of man eating
+propensity.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Bambarre, Livingstone was soon in the extensive country of the
+famed Manyuema, a tribe, or rather an entire people, hardly surpassed for
+size and power by even the Zulus, Macololos, Ugandas or Niam-Niams, a
+tribe whose name is one of terror far below Stanley Falls and far above
+Nyangwe, and whose unamiable qualities have of late years been greatly
+increased by the hold which Tippoo Tib, the Arab imperator on Lualaba,
+has gotten upon them.</p>
+
+<p>Livingstone’s journey toward their capital was through the most
+remarkable country he had seen in Central Africa. He had elephant and
+rhinoceros meat of his own shooting, and plenty to trade to the natives
+for other dainties. The land is a beautiful succession of hills and
+dales. The villages are frequent and perched on the slopes so as to
+secure quick drainage. The streets run east and west in order that the
+blazing sun may lick up the moisture. The dwellings are in perfect
+line, with low thatched roofs, and every here and there are larger
+establishments with grounds, which answer for public assemblages. The
+walls are of beaten clay, and the insides are cosy and clean. The clay
+walls are so compact as to stand for ages, and frequently men return,
+after a site has been deserted for generations, to repair and re-occupy
+their
+ancestral<!--515.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_506" id="Page_506">506</a></span>
+abodes. The people practice the rite of circumcision,
+after the manner of the Abyssinians or Hebrews. The women are good
+housekeepers, and preserve their food from the ants, which are in great
+numbers and of many varieties, by slinging it from the ceiling of their
+huts in earthen pots or neatly made baskets.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 403px;">
+<img src="images/i_505.jpg" width="403" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A YOUNG SOKO.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Palms crown the heights of all the mountains and hills, and the forests,
+usually of a width of five miles between the groups of villages, are
+indescribable for their luxuriance and beauty. Climbers fold themselves
+gracefully over the gigantic trees, wild fruit abounds, and monkeys
+and brilliant birds skip and flit from bough to bough, with continuous
+chatter and chirp. The soil is excessively rich and the people cultivate
+largely, even though they are much separated by feuds and dense forest
+reaches. Their maize bends its fruit stalk round like a hook. They insert
+poles in the ground for fences, and these soon sprout making substantial
+and impervious hedges. Climbing plants are trained from pole to pole,
+and to these are suspended the ears of corn to dry. This upright granary
+forms a wall around the entire village, and the women take down corn at
+their will and distribute it to the men. The women are very naked. They
+are thrifty, however, and may be seen on any market day carrying their
+produce to the villages on their heads, or slung in receptacles over
+their shoulders. No women could be fonder of beads and ornaments than
+they, and Livingstone found them easy to trade with, when at all friendly.</p>
+
+<p>The receptions Livingstone met with in the various villages, as he neared
+the Lualaba, were as various as the humors of the people. Some received
+him gladly, others with suspicion, and still others with rudeness,
+saying, “If you have food at home, why come you so far and spend your
+beads to buy it here?” On the Luamo, a tributary of the Lualaba, two
+hundred yards broad and very deep, the chiefs proved so hostile as to
+refuse to lend their canoes to the party to cross over. The women were
+particularly outspoken, and claimed that the party were identical with
+the cruel strangers (Arabs) who had lately robbed them. At length the
+warriors of the place surrounded the party, with their spears and huge
+wooden shields, and marched them bodily out of the district.</p>
+
+<p>Wherever the wood has been cleared in this section, the
+soil<!--516.png--><span class="pagenum">507</span>
+immediately
+brings a crop of gigantic grasses. These are burned annually.
+Livingstone’s way now deflected to the north, through kindlier villages,
+separated by damp forests. The rainy season was on and the streams were
+all swollen. Evidences of large game were all around him. He passed an
+elephant trap, which was made of a log of heavy wood twenty feet long,
+with a hole at one end through which a vine passed to suspend it. At the
+other end a lance of wood, four feet long, is inserted. A latch string
+runs to the ground, which, when touched by the animal’s foot, causes the
+log to fall, and its great weight drives the lance into the animal’s body.</p>
+
+<p>The people here were more friendly and very curious as they never had
+seen a white man before. They have a terrible dread of the Arabs, and
+strange to say the Arabs feared them as much, for nothing could convince
+an Arab that the Manyuema are not cannibals. It must be remembered
+that Livingstone wrote some years ago and before the Arabs acquired
+supremacy over these natives. It is a peculiarity of African tribes that
+nothing can exceed the terror inspired by a reputation in another tribe
+for cannibalism. It was a common thing on the Shir&eacute; and Zambesi, for
+Livingstone to hear the natives there speak of tribes far away to the
+north&mdash;like diseases, they are always far away&mdash;who eat human bodies,
+and on every occasion the fact was related with the utmost horror and
+disgust. Livingstone never took stock in these stories, nor in the wilder
+ones of the Arabs, and he mentions no authenticated case of cannibalism
+in all his volumes. It is more than likely that African cannibalism
+exists only in the imagination of persons who prefer sensation to fact.</p>
+
+<p>Livingstone seems to have become bewildered on this northward journey,
+and crossed his track with the intention of making more directly for the
+Lualaba. Though he found the people kind and the country indescribably
+rich in vegetation, the way was difficult owing to the softness of the
+ground and the swollen streams. He however succeeded, with much hardship,
+in getting back to the route direct from Bambarre to the river. On this
+route the villages were almost continuous, as many as nine being passed
+in a single day. The people were kindly disposed and very curious. They
+brought food willingly, traded eagerly, preferring bracelets
+to<!--517.png--><span class="pagenum">508</span>
+beads,
+and in one village he was received by a band, composed of calabashes.
+Goat and sheep herds were plenty, tended mostly by children, who lived
+among and loved their charges as if they were human beings.</p>
+
+<p>A grass burning resulted in the capture of four sokos by the natives,
+besides other animals. The full grown soko would do well to stand for
+a picture of the devil. One of them, it appears, was a young one which
+gave Livingstone an opportunity for study. His light-yellow face showed
+off his ugly whiskers and faint apology for a beard. The forehead,
+villainously low, with high ears, was well in the back-ground of a great
+dog mouth. The teeth were slightly human but the canines showed the beast
+by their large development. The hands, or rather fingers, were like those
+of the natives. The flesh of the feet was yellow. The eagerness with
+which the Manyuema devoured it left the impression that eating sokos was
+a good way to get up a reputation for cannibalism.</p>
+
+<p>The soko sometimes kills the leopard by seizing both paws and biting
+them, but often gets disemboweled in the attempt. Lions kill sokos with a
+bound, tear them to pieces, but seldom eat them. They live in communities
+of about ten, each male having a single wife. Interference with a wife is
+visited by the resentment of all the other males, who catch and cuff the
+offender till he screams for mercy.</p>
+
+<p>Livingstone was now sorely detained by sickness and the desertion of his
+carriers. The delay gave him opportunity to note the characteristics
+of the Manyuema country with more particularity. It is not a healthy
+country, not so much from fever as from debility of the whole system
+induced by damp, cold and indigestion. This general weakness is ascribed
+by some to the free use of maize as food, which produces weakness of the
+bowels and choleraic purging. Rheumatism is common and cuts the natives
+off. The Arabs fear this disease, and when attacked come to a stand-still
+till it is cured. Tape worm is frequent, and the natives know no remedy
+for it.</p>
+
+<p>The natives have wonderful stores of ivory which the Arabs are eager
+for. They cultivate the ground with the hoe, but their hoeing is little
+better than scraping the ground, and cutting
+through<!--518.png--><span class="pagenum">509</span>
+the roots of the
+grasses. This careless husbandry leaves the roots of maize, ground-nuts,
+sweet-potatoes and sorghum to find their way into the rich, soft soil,
+which they succeed in doing. The ground-nuts and cassava hold their own
+against the grasses for years. Bananas grow vigorously on the cleared
+spaces.</p>
+
+<p>The great want of the Manyuema is national life. Of this they have none.
+Each head man is independent of each other. Of industry they have no lack
+and the villagers are orderly toward each other, but they go no further.
+If a man of another district ventures among them, he is not regarded
+with more favor as a Manyuema than one of a herd of buffaloes is by the
+rest, and on the slightest provocation he is likely to be killed. They
+buy their wives from one another. A pretty girl brings ten goats. The new
+wife is led to the new home by the husband, where five days are spent,
+then she is led back to her home for five days, after which she comes to
+her new home permanently. Many of the women are handsome, having perfect
+forms and limbs. The conviction of Livingstone, after his experience
+with these people, was that if a man goes with a good-natured and civil
+tongue, he may pass through the worst people in Africa unharmed. He also
+draws a fine line between the unmixed and mixed African races, by a
+narrative of experience on the Shir&eacute; river. One of a mixed race stepped
+into the water to swim off to a boat, and was seized by a crocodile.
+The poor fellow held up his hands and screamed for help. Not a man went
+to his help, but allowed him to perish. When at Senna, in the Makololo
+country, a woman was seized by a crocodile. Instantly four natives rushed
+unbidden and rescued her, though they knew nothing about her. These
+incidents are typical of the two races. Those of mixed blood possess the
+vices of both races and the virtues of neither.</p>
+
+<p>The fact that there is no supreme chief among the Manyuema, makes it
+difficult to punish murder except by war, and the feud is made worse,
+being transmitted from generation to generation. This state of affairs,
+when it came to be understood by such a crafty statesman as Tippoo Tib,
+contributed to his victory over the people, and that peculiar sovereignty
+which he exercises.</p>
+
+<p>Livingstone got away from this place of confinement, and crossed the
+Mamohela, on his journey to Nyangwe. The
+country<!--519.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_510" id="Page_510">510</a></span>
+was a fine grassy plain
+watered by numerous rills, and skirted by mountains on either side, on
+which perched the neat villages of the natives. Then forests intervene
+of even more luxuriant growth than before, to be again succeeded by
+plains. The people seem to grow more stately and shapely, the women being
+singularly perfect in hands, feet and limbs, and of light brown color,
+but all with the orifices of their noses enlarged by excessive snuff
+taking. The humor of the villagers depended on how lately they had been
+raided by the Arabs. They seemed also to grow more clever in art, for now
+many forges were seen in active operation where iron was being shaped
+into spears and utensils.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_510.jpg" width="600" height="531"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">MANYUEMA WOMEN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At length the Lualaba is reached at Nyangwe, the capital of the Manyuema
+country, and the greatest market town in Central
+Africa.<!--520.png--><span class="pagenum">511</span>
+Long before
+Livingstone reached it he met upon the route hundreds of women wending
+their way thither with their marketing in baskets on their heads or slung
+in receptacles on their shoulders. As they trudged cheerfully along full
+of thought as to what they would receive in exchange or what they would
+buy, he could not help contrasting their condition with that of the women
+bent on a like errand in his own country, where the labor might be the
+same, but where there was happy exemption from such scenes of bloodshed
+as he was forced to witness while there. But as these have been already
+narrated the reader is here spared their horrible review.</p>
+
+<p>The Manyuema prefer to do all their business in open market. If one
+says, “Come, sell me that fowl, or cloth,” the reply is, “Come to the
+market place.” The values there are more satisfactory and the transaction
+is open. The people had a fear of Livingstone, because they could not
+disassociate him from the Arab half-castes who had brought upon them
+untold misery.</p>
+
+<p>He found the Lualaba at Nyangwe to be twenty feet deep in mid stream
+and subject to annual overflow just like the Nile&mdash;a mighty river, he
+says, three thousand yards wide, with steep banks and full of islands.
+The current runs at the rate of two miles an hour. His greatest trouble
+was to get a canoe to take him across the river. The natives thought his
+request for a large canoe, with which he intended to explore the river,
+meant war upon them, so they sent only small ones, capable of carrying
+two or three men, and which were entirely unfit for his purposes. The
+Manyuema on the left bank of the Lualaba, opposite Nyangwe, are called
+Bagenya. There are salt springs in their district, and they manufacture
+the salt for the Nyangwe market, by boiling the brine.</p>
+
+<p>The salutations of the Manyuema are the same as those of the Bechuana
+people of the Kalihari desert, and indeed many of their customs
+reminded Livingstone of what he had seen south of the Zambesi, among
+the respective tribes. The natives of Nyangwe denied to Livingstone
+the stories of cannibalism that had been circulated about them. They
+never eat human flesh, unless it be the bodies of enemies killed in
+war, and not then through any liking for the flesh, which is salty and
+unpalatable, but because it makes them “dream of the dead man,” and, as
+it were, kill
+them<!--521.png--><span class="pagenum">512</span>
+over in their sleep. This a very comfortable way of
+getting a second vengeance, and is nearly allied to the reasoning which
+is at the bottom of cannibalism in the South Sea Islands, to wit, belief
+that the blood of a brave and fallen enemy transplants his bravery to
+the veins of him who partakes of it. Cannibalism, for the sheer love of
+eating human flesh, don’t exist in the world. It is a creation of the
+imagination, a product of the tale telling spirit, and is not fair to the
+pagan races.</p>
+
+<p>Livingstone seems never to tire of praising the physical proportions of
+the Manyuema and says, he would back a company of them, for shape of head
+and physical form, male and female, against the whole Anthropological
+Society. He was surprised at the extent of country embraced in the
+Arab incursions. On questioning the slaves brought to Nyangwe by these
+marauders, he found them members of tribes far up and down the Lualaba,
+and westward of it many days’ journey. The copper of Kantanga reaches the
+Nyangwe market, and is readily bought up at high figures, in barter.</p>
+
+<p>The great market of Nyangwe is held every third day. It is a busy scene,
+and every trader is in dead earnest. Venders of fish run about with
+potsherds full of snails and small fishes, or with smoked fishes strung
+on twigs, to exchange for cassava, potatoes, grain, bananas, flour,
+palm-oil, fowls, salt, pepper, and various vegetables. Each is bent on
+exchanging food for relishes, and the assertions of quality are as strong
+as in a civilized mart. The sweat stands out on their faces, cocks crow
+briskly from the baskets, and pigs squeal from their inclosures. Iron
+utensils, traps and cages are exchanged for cloth, which is put away
+for carriage in their capacious baskets. They deal fairly, and when
+differences arise, they appeal to each other and settle things readily
+on a basis of natural justice. With so much food changing hands among a
+throng which frequently numbers 3,000 souls, much benefit is derived,
+for some of them come twenty-five miles afoot. The men flaunt about
+in a nervous and excited way, but the women are the hardest workers.
+The potters hold up their wares and beat them with their knuckles to
+prove their quality by the sound. It is all a scene of fine natural
+acting&mdash;the eagerness with which they assert the value of their wares,
+and the withering looks of disgust when the buyer sees fit
+to<!--522.png--><span class="pagenum">513</span>
+reject
+the proffered article. Little girls run about selling cups of water to
+the thirsty traders, just as lemonade or ice-water boys ply their art in
+London during a procession. They are close buyers and sellers, prone to
+exaggerate the merits of their articles, yet satisfied when a bargain
+is clinched. Honesty is a rule, and when anything is stolen among the
+Manyuema, they know that it is the work of the Arab slaves.</p>
+
+<p>The Manyuema children do not creep as white children do, but begin by
+putting forward one foot and using one knee. The fish of the Lualaba are
+of the same variety as in Lake Nyassa. Cakes made of ground-nuts are a
+common fare, as on the west coast. All Livingstone’s persuasions could
+not induce the natives to hire him a canoe large enough to navigate the
+river with. The Arabs had inflamed their imaginations by painting him
+as an enemy in disguise, but their real purpose was to keep control of
+all the larger boats themselves to assist in their river forays. Baffled
+by both natives and Arabs, and after waiting for many weary weeks at
+Nyangwe, he resolved to return to Ujiji, on Lake Tanganyika.</p>
+
+<p>His return journey was a repetition of the sights and scenes already
+described, varied of course by new opportunities for observing natural
+features and events. On nearing the Mamohela, he passed through a most
+populous region, with well constructed villages, abounding in goats,
+fowls, dogs, and pigs, with vegetable food of every tropical variety in
+plenty, while palm toddy, tobacco and bangue (Indian hemp) furnished
+them the dainties. The soil was so fruitful that a mere scraping with a
+hoe rendered a generous return. The forests afforded elephants, zebras,
+buffaloes and antelopes, and in the streams were abundance of fish. The
+antelope species in Africa is rich in variety, stalwart in form, and
+heavy horned. Those of the Chobe river are dappled in color and very
+beautiful. The quichobo is a rare species, and is more of a goat than
+an antelope. It has amphibious qualities, and when frightened will jump
+into the water and remain beneath the surface till danger has passed. At
+this point Livingstone was given a secret which would have been worth
+a fortune to him had he possessed it in time to have saved the camels,
+mules and buffaloes with which he started on this journey from the coast.
+It was to the effect that lion’s
+fat<!--524.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_515" id="Page_515">515</a></span>
+was a cure for the bite of the
+tsetse fly. As he had never seen a fat lion, he was incredulous, till
+assured that the Basango lions, in common with all other beasts, actually
+took on fat. A vial of the precious stuff was handed him, a proof of
+the fact that such a thing as lion fat did really exist. The cattle
+raising tribes of the plains west of Tanganyika, know the virtue of this
+ointment, and use it when they drive their herds toward the markets on
+the eastern coast.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 383px;">
+<img src="images/i_514.jpg" width="383" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">TYPES OF AFRICAN ANTELOPES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Sickness on the rest of the route to Tanganyika impaired his powers of
+observation and description. In general he found the country beautiful
+and fertile, but much disturbed by raiders. On his arrival at Tanganyika
+he was ferried across to Ujiji. Sick and in despair, his faithful Susi
+came rushing at the top of his speed one morning and gasped out, “An
+Englishman!” This was Stanley, on his mission of rescue. This meeting,
+and how the two explorers navigated Tanganyika, together with other
+things that went to make up one of the most remarkable interviews in
+history, are described elsewhere in this volume.</p>
+
+<p>One would have thought that Livingstone could not fail to accompany
+Stanley home. But he did not, and, weakened as he was by disease,
+proclaimed to his rescuer a programme which embraced a journey round the
+south end of Tanganyika, southward across the Chambesi, round the south
+end of Lake Bangweola, due west to the mythical ancient fountains and
+thence to the copper-mines of Kantanga. All this, he says, “to certify
+that no other sources of the Nile can come from the south without
+being seen by me.” What heroism was here, yet in his condition, what
+infatuation! Poor man, deluded, self-sacrificial traveler, illy-advised
+adventurer! All this long journey, from the time he struck the Chambesi,
+months and months before, to Moero, to Tanganyika, to Bambare, to the
+Lualaba and Nyangwe, had been through the water system of the Upper
+Congo, and had nothing at all to do with the Nile sources, and now, going
+back to Bangweola and to the Chambesi for the purpose of contributing
+further to knowledge of the ultimate Nile sources, discovery of which
+he regarded as worth the sacrifice of his life, he was but stamping
+through the Congo basin again, and revealing the sources of a river which
+found an
+outlet<!--525.png--><span class="pagenum">516</span>
+in the Atlantic. But such were the uncertainties which
+confronted all these early African explorers. Even Stanley was uncertain
+whither the Lualaba would lead when he embarked on its waters, and
+although is volume furnished proof that it could not be the Nile, he was
+still prepared, from its northern course, to accept it as such, till it
+took its westward turn and straightened out for its Atlantic exit.</p>
+
+<p>Writing on African beliefs, he says: “The African’s idea seems to be that
+they are under control of a power superior to themselves&mdash;apart from and
+invisible; good, but frequently evil and dangerous. This may have been
+the earliest religious feeling of dependence on Divine power, without
+any conscious feeling of its nature. Idols may have come in to give
+definite ideas of superior power, and the primitive faith or impression
+obtained by Revelation seems to have mingled with their idolatry, without
+any sense of incongruity. The origin of the primitive faith in Africans
+and others seems always to have been a Divine influence on their dark
+minds, which has proved persistent in all ages. One portion of primitive
+belief&mdash;the continued existence of departed spirits&mdash;seems to have no
+connection whatever with dreams, or, as we should say, with ‘ghost
+seeing,’ for great agony is felt in prospect of bodily mutilation, or
+burning of the body after death, as that is believed to render a return
+to one’s native land impossible. They feel as if it would shut them off
+from all intercourse with relatives after death. They would lose the
+power of doing good to those once loved, and evil to those who deserved
+their revenge. Take the case of the slaves in the yoke, singing songs of
+hate and revenge against those who sold them into slavery. They thought
+it right so to harbor hatred, though most of the party had been sold for
+crimes&mdash;adultery, stealing etc,&mdash;which they knew to be sins.”</p>
+
+<p>In Central Africa one is struck with the fact that children have so
+few games. Life is a serious business, and amusement is derived from
+imitating the vocations of their parents&mdash;hut building, making little
+gardens, bows and arrows, shields and spears. In Southern Africa boys
+are very ingenious little fellows and have several games. They shoot
+birds with bows and arrows, practice with the kiri, and teach linnets to
+sing. They are expert at making guns and
+traps<!--527.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_518" id="Page_518">518</a></span>
+for small animals, and in
+making and using bird-lime. They make play guns with a trigger which go
+off with a spring and have cotton fluff as smoke. They shoot locusts very
+cleverly with these toy guns.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_517.jpg" width="600" height="383"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">DINKA CATTLE HERD.</span>
+<a href="images/i_517x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>Desperate as Livingstone’s last undertaking seemed, he was well equipped
+for it by the receipt of fifty-seven porters sent up from Zanzibar by
+Stanley and a supply of cattle and donkeys. He found that much cotton was
+cultivated on the shores of Tanganyika, that the highlands surrounding
+the lake are cut into deep ravines, and that game was plenty everywhere,
+elephants, buffaloes, water buck, rhinoceri, hippopotami, zebras. The
+lake puts off numerous arms or bays into the mountains, some of which are
+of great width, cutting off travel entirely except at a distance from its
+shores.</p>
+
+<p>Even before he had rounded the southern end of Tanganyika, he was out
+of heart with the experiment of using donkeys as carriers. He had all
+along contended that this hardy animal could be taken through regions
+infested with the deadly tsetse fly, even though horses, mules, dogs and
+oxen might perish. But he, for a second time, witnessed the death of one
+donkey after another from the bites of the African pest-fly. His cattle
+fared somewhat better, this time, but even they proved a poor means of
+keeping up a food supply, being apt to wander, subject to swellings from
+fly-stings, and a constant invitation to raiders. True, he escaped this
+last calamity, but other travelers in different parts of Africa have been
+less fortunate, as their accounts show.</p>
+
+<p>As he passed down into the section which furnishes the head-streams of
+Lake Moero, the rains descended in volumes, the streams were swollen,
+the people were unkind, and travel became dismal and difficult, beyond
+any former experience. He was troubled with sickness and the desertion
+of his men. A leopard broke into his camp, at night, and attacked
+a woman carrier. Her screams frightened his last donkey and it ran
+away. The slave traders had stirred up the villages, so that trade for
+the necessaries of life was always difficult. He found the country a
+succession of hills and plains, forests and high grasses, with every
+evidence of great fertility. Dura, or the flour of sorghum seed,
+furnishes the staple food. His narrative of the streams he crossed is
+bewildering,
+but<!--528.png--><span class="pagenum">519</span>
+it shows the great plentitude of these Congo sources
+and quite reconciles one to the mighty volume of that magnificent river.
+With such an abundance of lively sources it must very largely defy active
+Equatorial evaporation and be at all seasons a surely navigable and
+valuable commercial water-way.</p>
+
+<p>The sponges were now all full from the continuous rains, so that a stream
+100 feet wide, had to be approached through a bog of twice that width.
+His last cow died, and he was wholly dependent on the natives for food.
+Pushing on, and bearing gently westward, he came into the immediate
+region of Bangweola. All around was flat, water-covered plain, alive with
+elephants and other large game. Every camping place was infested with
+ants. Life was miserable for the entire party, and Livingstone himself
+was so weak as to be incapable of passing the river and swamps, except by
+being carried.</p>
+
+<p>He entered the lake with canoes, and pushed off to one of its numerous
+islands, or at least what he supposed to be an island, though it
+afterwards turned out to be only a rise in the plain which surrounds the
+true lake, and which was then entirely water-covered. The Basiba people
+occupy the northern shore of the lake. They proved to be hospitable and
+supplied plenty of fish and fowls with an occasional sheep. At every
+village a party of male and female drummers and dancers turned up, who
+gave music and exhibitions in dancing.</p>
+
+<p>Crossing the mouth of the Chambesi in canoes, and entering the Kabinga
+country, he found a cattle raising section, though the cattle are wild.
+Elephants were plenty and very destructive of crops. The entire country
+about the lake was reedy and flooded. Many of the depressions in the
+plain were now arms of the lake, extending for twenty or thirty miles
+and so wide as to be seen across with difficulty. The journey now was
+mostly by canoes, and the camps were on elevations in the plain, which
+were now islands. Lions made the night hideous with their roaring. Fish
+and other food was abundant. The mouth of river after river was passed
+as it debouched into the lake. Livingstone grows weaker with every
+days’ exertion. It is only by the most herculean effort that he reaches
+Chitambo on the south side of the
+lake.<!--529.png--><span class="pagenum">520</span>
+His ability to observe and note
+has passed away. His power as a traveler and explorer is gone. Death
+seized him in Chitambo’s village, and his faithful Chuma and Susi bore
+his remains to the coast for transport to England.</p>
+
+<p>We know of the Chambesi, of Lake Bangweola, of the Luapula, of Lake
+Moero, of the Lualaba, and of this magnificent section of the Upper
+Congo basin, from Livingstone. True, we know little of it, because the
+heroic traveler was sick unto death while threading the mazes of forest
+and plain which give character to the section. But he has given such an
+inkling of its wonderful resources of soil, animal life and people as to
+create fresh interest in the region and furnish supplementary evidence to
+all that has been said or dreamed of the wealth of the Congo basin.</p>
+
+<p>The last of the sections into which Stanley divides the Congo basin is
+that of Tanganyika. This great lake is 391 miles long and 24 broad, with
+an area of 9400 square miles. The territory about the lake, belonging
+to the Congo water system, embraces 93,000 square miles. It is thickly
+populated, and contains probably 2,500,000 persons. The lake itself is
+2750 feet above the sea, and it is bounded by mountains, north and south,
+which rise from 1500 to 2500 feet above its surface. The slopes of these
+mountains lead to lofty plateaus, which are fertile, densely peopled,
+and well covered with cattle herds. The natives are of a superior type,
+peaceably inclined and much attached to their pastoral occupations, and
+to the raising of sorghum, millet and maize. At various towns on the lake
+are large communities of Arab traders, the most noted being at Ujiji,
+where Stanley met Livingstone on his celebrated journey of rescue. The
+International Association supports a flourishing mission on the east side
+of the lake, and others have been recently founded.</p>
+
+<p>In general this section supports the natural products indigenous to the
+Congo basin, though the oil-palm is not seen east of Ujiji. Around the
+lake the natives make a larger use of the cereals, than further west,
+where the banana and manioc grow more luxuriantly. There is hardly any
+finer market in Africa than that of Ujiji, where may be seen for sale an
+intermixture of products such as would do credit to a first-class city,
+were it not for the fact that human
+beings<!--530.png--><span class="pagenum">521</span>
+often constitute one of the
+articles of merchandise. On any propitious market day may be seen a full
+supply of maize, millet, beans, ground-nuts, sugar-cane, wild-fruit,
+palm-oil, bananas, plantains, honey, ivory, goats, sheep, cattle, fowls,
+fish, tobacco, nets, copper and iron ware, cloth, barks, hoes, spears,
+arrows, swords, etc., etc. On the northwest side of this section, at
+Uvira, are iron works of no mean proportions, whose products are iron
+wire and various iron utensils for both household and agricultural
+purposes.</p>
+
+<p>In his recapitulation of resources, Stanley estimates the Congo basin to
+contain as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr>
+  <td align="left"></td>
+  <td align="center">Area in square</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td align="center">Length of</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">Sections.</td>
+  <td align="center">miles.</td>
+  <td align="center">Population.</td>
+  <td align="center">Navigation.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Lower Congo,</td>
+  <td align="right">33,000</td>
+  <td align="right">297,000</td>
+  <td align="right">110</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Upper Congo,</td>
+  <td align="right">1,090,000</td>
+  <td align="right">43,884,000</td>
+  <td align="right">5,250</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Lualaba,</td>
+  <td align="right">246,000</td>
+  <td align="right">4,920,000</td>
+  <td align="right">1,100</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Chambesi,</td>
+  <td align="right">46,000</td>
+  <td align="right">460,000</td>
+  <td align="right">400</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Tanganyika,</td>
+  <td align="right">93,000</td>
+  <td align="right">2,325,000</td>
+  <td align="right">391</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td align="right">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  <td align="right">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  <td align="right">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td align="right">1,508,000</td>
+  <td align="right">51,886,000</td>
+  <td align="right">7,251</td>
+</tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>The ownership of the great basin, as determined at the Berlin conference,
+is as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr>
+  <td align="center">Countries.</td>
+  <td align="center">Areas.</td>
+  <td align="center">Population.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">French Territory,</td>
+  <td align="center">62,400</td>
+  <td align="center">2,121,600</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Portuguese Territory,</td>
+  <td align="center">30,700</td>
+  <td align="center">276,300</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Unclaimed,</td>
+  <td align="center">349,700</td>
+  <td align="center">6,910,000</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Congo Free State,</td>
+  <td align="center">1,065,200</td>
+  <td align="center">42,608,000</td>
+</tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>Inquiring, exacting commerce is ever ready with practical questions. When
+it has listened with attentive ear to Stanley’s bewildering estimates,
+astounding calculations and captivating statements, it coldly asks what
+return shall we find for our wares and for the expense and trouble of
+landing them in these tropical markets? He boldly replies, you cannot
+shut your eyes to the fact that Western Africa is already contributing
+her half of a trade with Europe, which already exceeds $150,000,000 a
+year. This comes almost exclusively from a coast line 2900 miles long.
+Enlarge this line, by adding the 6000 miles of navigable waters which
+are embraced in the Congo basin, and this trade by the products which
+would thereby find an outlet, and you would have a traffic equal to
+$500,000,000 annually. Improve this inland navigation by a
+railroad<!--531.png--><span class="pagenum">522</span>
+around the cataracts of the Congo, enlist the sympathies and energies of
+the 43,000,000 of people who inhabit the basin, or even of the 4,483,000
+who dwell on navigable banks of the water-ways, give them some idea of
+the incomputable wealth that is over, around and under them, and which
+may be had by simply reaching for it, regard them as men and deal with
+them as such, and then you will soon realize that the Congo banks are
+worth far more to commerce, mile for mile, than the ocean shores. And
+well might he say this, for the banks of the Congo are a succession
+of villages, alive with people imbued with the trading spirit, well
+acquainted with the value of oils, rubber, dye-woods and gums, anxious
+for cloth, brass-rods, beads and trinkets. This cannot be said of all
+places on the sea-coast. Stanley narrates that eager natives have
+followed him for miles offering ivory and red wood powder for cloth,
+and that when they failed to effect a trade, they would ask in despair,
+“Well, what is it you do want? Tell us and we will get it for you.”</p>
+
+<p>So sanguine was Stanley of the commercial situation on the Congo and in
+tropical Africa that he ventured to tell the practical merchantmen of
+Manchester how they could triple the commerce of the entire west coast of
+Africa by building two sections of narrow gauge railway, each 52 and 95
+miles long, connected by steamboat navigation, or a continuous railway of
+235 miles long, around Livingstone Falls, and thereby opening the Upper
+Congo to steamboats. Such a step would insure the active co&ouml;peration of
+more than a million of native traders who are waiting to be told what
+they can furnish out of their inexhaustible treasures, besides those
+they have already set a value on, as iron, oil ground-nuts, gum, rubber,
+orchilla, camwood, myrrh, frankincense, furs, skins, feathers, copper,
+fibres, beeswax, nutmegs, ginger, etc.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley showed how a few factories at available points for the conversion
+of cruder articles into those of smaller bulk, and how the trading posts
+which were sure to spring up on the site of every important village,
+would gather in sufficient wares to tax the capacity of such a railroad
+as he contemplated to the uttermost, and realize a handsome income on the
+investment. He even gave estimates of the cost of the enterprise, which
+have<!--532.png--><span class="pagenum">523</span>
+been borne out by the practical engineers who have since taken the
+work of building it in hand.</p>
+
+<p>He showed further how human and animal carriers had failed to solve the
+problem of porterage around Livingstone Falls, although the interests
+beyond, identified with the work of the International Association and
+with Christian missions, were expending annually a sum equal to 5<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> per
+cent. on the estimated cost of a railway.</p>
+
+<p>He eloquently concludes his survey of tropical African resources thus:
+“Until the latter half of the nineteenth century the world was ignorant
+of what lay beyond the rapids of Isangila, or how slight was the obstacle
+which lay between civilization and the broad natural highway which
+cleared the dark virgin regions of Africa into two equal halves, and how
+nature had found a hundred other navigable channels by which access could
+be gained to her latest gift to mankind. As a unit of that mankind for
+which nature reserved it, I rejoice that so large an area of the earth
+still lies to be developed by the coming races; I rejoice to find that
+it is not only high in value, but that it excels all other known lands
+for the number and rare variety of precious gifts with which nature has
+endowed it.</p>
+
+<p>“Let us take North America for instance, and the richest portion of it,
+viz: the Mississippi basin, to compare with the Congo basin, previous to
+its development by that mixture of races called modern Americans. When
+De Soto navigated the Father of Waters, and the Indians were undisputed
+masters of the ample river basin, the spirit of enterprise would have
+found in the natural productions some furs and timber.</p>
+
+<p>“The Congo basin is, however, much more promising at the same stage of
+undevelopment. The forests on the banks of the Congo are filled with
+precious red-wood, lignum vit&aelig;, mahogany and fragrant gum trees. At their
+base may be found inexhaustible quantities of fossil gum, with which the
+carriages and furnitures of civilized countries are varnished; their
+foliage is draped with orchilla, useful for dye. The red-wood when cut
+down, chipped and rasped, produces a deep crimson colored powder, giving
+a valuable coloring; the creepers which hang in festoons from the
+trees<!--533.png--><span class="pagenum">524</span>
+are generally those from which India rubber is produced, the best of
+which is worth fifty cents a pound in a crude state; the nuts of the oil
+palm give forth a butter which is a staple article of commerce; while the
+fibres of others will make the best cordage. Among the wild shrubs are
+frequently found the coffee-plant. In its plains, jungles and swamps,
+luxuriate the elephants, whose teeth furnish ivory worth from two to
+three dollars a pound in an unworked condition; its waters teem with
+numberless herds of hippopotami, whose tusks are also valuable; furs of
+the lion, leopard, monkey, otter; hides of the antelope, buffalo, goat
+and cattle, may also be obtained. But what is of more value, it possesses
+over 40,000,000 of moderately industrious and workable people, which the
+red Indians never were. And if we speak of prospective advantages and
+benefits to be derived from this late gift of nature, they are not much
+inferior in number or value to those of the well developed Mississippi
+valley. The copper of Lake Superior is rivalled by that of the Kwilu
+valley and of Bemb&eacute;. Rice, cotton, tobacco, maize, coffee, sugar and
+wheat thrive equally well on the broad plains of the Congo. This is only
+known after the superficial examination of a limited line which is not
+much over fifty miles wide. I have heard of gold and silver, but the fact
+of their existence requires confirmation and I am not disposed to touch
+upon what I do not personally know.</p>
+
+<p>“For climate, the Mississippi valley is superior, but a large part of the
+Congo basin, at present inaccessible to the immigrant, is blessed with a
+temperature under which Europeans may thrive and multiply. There is no
+portion of it where the European trader may not fix his residence for
+years, and develop commerce to his own profit with as little risk as is
+incurred in India.</p>
+
+<p>“It is specially with a view to rouse the spirit of trade that I
+dilate upon the advantages possessed by the Congo basin, and not as a
+field for the pauper immigrant. There are over 40,000,000 of native
+paupers within the area described, who are poor and degraded already,
+merely because they are compassed round by hostile forces of nature
+and man, denying them contact and intercourse with the elements which
+might have ameliorated the unhappiness of their condition. European
+pauperism planted amongst them would
+soon<!--534.png--><span class="pagenum">525</span>
+degenerate to the low level
+of aboriginal degradation. It is a cautious trader who advances, not
+without the means of retreat; the enterprising mercantile factor who
+with one hand receives the raw produce from the native, in exchange
+for the finished product of the manufacturer’s loom&mdash;the European
+middleman who has his home in Europe but his heart in Africa&mdash;is the
+man who is wanted. These are they who can direct and teach the black
+pauper what to gather of the multitude of things around him and in his
+neighborhood. They are the missionaries of commerce, adapted for nowhere
+so well as for the Congo basin, where are so many idle hands, and such
+abundant opportunities all within a natural “ring fence.” Those entirely
+weak-minded, irresolute and servile people who profess scepticism, and
+project it before them always as a shield to hide their own cowardice
+from general observation, it is not my purpose to attempt to interest in
+Africa. Of the 325,000,000 of people in civilized Europe, there must be
+some surely to whom the gospel of enterprise I preach will present a few
+items of fact worthy of retention in the memory, and capable of inspiring
+a certain amount of action. I am encouraged in this belief by the rapid
+absorption of several ideas which I have promulgated during the last few
+years respecting the Dark Continent. Pious missionaries have set forth
+devotedly to instil in the dull mindless tribes the sacred germs of
+religion; but their material difficulties are so great that the progress
+they have made bears no proportion to the courage and zeal they have
+exhibited. I now turn to the worldly wise traders for whose benefit and
+convenience a railway must be constructed.”</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><!--535.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_526" id="Page_526">526</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>
+THE WHITE MAN IN AFRICA.
+</h2>
+
+<p>On the bright, accessible side of Africa the Pharaohs built their
+temples, obelisks, pyramids and sphinxes. When history dawned the seats
+of Egyptian learning and splendor were already in decay. In her conquest
+and plunder of a thousand years, victorious Rome met her most valiant
+antagonists in Africa, and African warriors carried their standards to
+the very gates of the capitol on the Tiber. In later days the Italian
+republics which dotted the northern coasts of the Mediterranean found
+their commercial enterprise and their ascendency on the sea challenged
+by the Moorish States which comprised the Barbary coast. Still later,
+when Spain was intent on conquest in America, and the establishment
+of colonies which would insure the spread of the Catholic religion,
+Portugal, in a kindred spirit, was pushing her way down the western coast
+of Africa, acquiring titles by virtue of discovery, establishing empires
+of unknown extent, founding Catholic missions and churches, striving for
+commercial exaltation, till her mariners rounded the Cape of Good Hope,
+turned northward on the eastern shores, and again took up the work of
+colonizing, from Mozambique to the outlet of the Red Sea.</p>
+
+<p>We never tire of reading the old stories of Portuguese discovery and
+colonization, and our sympathies are aroused for a people who struggled
+so heroically to open a new world to the civilization of the fifteenth
+and sixteenth centuries. But Portuguese effort came to naught, when
+measured by any modern standard of success. It was baffled by a thousand
+undreamt of forces. Its failure, however, rendered conspicuous the
+problem, now more pressing than ever: has the white man a natural mission
+in Africa? Has not God
+designed<!--536.png--><span class="pagenum">527</span>
+it as the natural home of the dark race?
+Are not all our visions of conquest and permanent redemption, through
+and by means of the white races, but idle outcrops of the imagination,
+or worse, but figments born of our desire to subdue and appropriate?
+Can compensation come, in the form of commercial, moral or spiritual
+advantage, adequate to the great sacrifice to be entailed on humanity by
+substitution of white energy for that which is native to African soil and
+climate?</p>
+
+<p>It is not worth while to try to answer these questions in the affirmative
+by appeals to old historic Egypt, to Greek or Roman occupancy, to
+Arab and Mohammedan ascendancy, to Portuguese conquest and missionary
+enterprise, to the weird adventures and sad fates of the school of
+intrepid explorers which preceded and followed the redoubtable Scotchman,
+Mungo Park, nor to the long role of efforts and enterprises made by the
+respective nations of Europe to acquire rich slices of African territory,
+after Portugal began to lose her commercial grip, and after foreign
+colonization became a European ambition. No, for as yet nothing appears
+to show that the white man had a mission in Africa, except to gratify
+his home ambitions, cater to his European pride, satisfy his desire
+to pilfer, burn and murder. There is no thought yet manifest that the
+redemption of Africa involved more than the subjugation of her people and
+the forcible turning to foreign account of her resources. The question
+has not as yet been asked by the ethnologist, by the grave student of
+causes and effects, nor even by the calculating adventurer,&mdash;“Is there
+an African destiny which admits the white races as fair and permanent
+participants, or one which implies universal good when the seeming laws
+of God respecting the home of nations are reversed?”</p>
+
+<p>Nor does an affirmative answer to any of the above questions arise out of
+England’s theft of the Cape of Good Hope, and of that sovereignty she now
+maintains over the Kimberly diamond diggings and the Vaal river sections.
+National greed or political finesse may excuse much, as the dark science
+of diplomacy goes, but they do not make clear how far the natural order
+of things can be changed with benefit to all concerned. This section of
+Africa is, however, below the tropics, and perhaps does not involve the
+problem of races so deeply as the equatorial regions.</p>
+
+<p><!--537.png--><span class="pagenum">528</span></p>
+
+<p>Let us therefore turn to the real Africa, for further inquiry&mdash;that
+Africa against which Islamism has dashed itself so repeatedly in its
+efforts to reach the Equator; that Africa whose climate has beaten
+back Christianity for three centuries; that Africa amid which science
+has reveled, but before which legitimate trade has stood appalled&mdash;the
+tropical, the new Africa.</p>
+
+<p>In this connection we come upon an order of events, not to say an
+era, which favors an affirmative answer to the above questions, which
+plainly point, not to white encroachment, but to white existence and
+possibilities in the very midst of a continent apparently destined for
+other purposes. The very fact that new discoveries in Central Africa
+have revealed vast populations untouched by civilization has opened
+the eyes of the world to the usual processes of nation-making afresh.
+Have any people ever risen out of barbarism without external help? What
+is civilized Europe to-day but a grand intermingling of Greek, Roman,
+Vandal, Hun, Goth, Celt, and Saracen? Had even North African influence,
+in some of its better moods, succeeded in crossing the Equator, who knows
+whether the savagery of the tropics might not have been extinct to-day,
+or at least wholly different from what it is?</p>
+
+<p>Again, the order of events have brought forth whole masses of data for
+comparison, for experiment, for substantial knowledge. Who could separate
+fiction from fact when running over the old, fantastic chronicles? Until
+within the last fifty years the light of true scientific knowledge and
+of keener commercial knowledge had not been shed on the Central African
+situation. It began to dawn when Laird, in 1841, came home to England
+from the Niger, more of an adventurer than any predecessor, yet with no
+wild, discrepant tales, but only hard, practical truths, which commerce
+welcomed and business enterprise could rely on. Legitimate traffic sprang
+into line, and British trading houses, doing business on honorable terms
+and for cash values, planted their agents on the Gambia, the Roquelle,
+the Gold Coast, the Oil Rivers, at Gaboon and Kabinda, along thousands of
+miles of coast. German houses sprang up, in honorable rivalry, throughout
+the same extent, and Hamburg and Bremen steamers fairly outstripped
+those of Liverpool and Glasgow. France, too, came into competition, took
+permanent<!--538.png--><span class="pagenum">529</span>
+hold of territory, cultivated reciprocity with the natives,
+studied tribal characteristics, encouraged agential responsibility,
+and brought quite to the surface the problem of white occupancy and
+development.</p>
+
+<p>Out of all this has grown something which is better than theory
+respecting the destiny of the respective races in Africa, superior far
+to all former strifes at mere land-grabbing, and empire building, and
+sovereignty enrichments. European commerce with the west and southern
+coast of Africa is now carried on by several regular lines of steamers,
+besides those owned by numerous large trading firms. The British and
+African Steam Navigation Company is a modern corporation, and employs 22
+steamers. Its older rival, the West African Steamship Company, employs 9
+steamers. They dispatch at least one ship a week from Liverpool to West
+African ports. The Woerman line of steamers runs regularly from Hamburg,
+the Portuguese line from Lisbon, and the French line from Havre. Then
+there are two London lines&mdash;the Union and Donald Curry. These lines go
+out heavily freighted with miscellaneous merchandise suitable for the
+African peoples, among which is, unfortunately, a large per cent. of
+gin and other intoxicants, and their return cargoes consist of rubber,
+gum copal, palm-oil, palm kernels, ivory, ground-nuts, beeswax, cocoa,
+coffee, dye-woods, mahogany, etc., gathered up at their various stopping
+points. All these are indigenous African products, but it will be
+observed that those which spring from a cultivated soil figure as next to
+nothing in the list.</p>
+
+<p>Side by side with these practical sea-going and commercial movements went
+the unfolding of the interior by those indomitable men who sacrificed
+personal comfort and risked life that inner Africa might be brought to
+outer view. This volume is, in part, a record of their adventures and
+pioneering efforts. Their names&mdash;the Bakers, Barths, Schweinfurths,
+Spekes, Grants, Du Chaillus, Pintos, Livingstones, Stanleys, and
+others&mdash;form a roll which for honor outranks that of the world’s greatest
+generals. They have built for themselves monuments which shall outlast
+those dedicated to military conquest, because on them the epitaphs will
+speak of unselfish endeavor in the name of a common humanity.</p>
+
+<p>What immense problems they had in hand! How
+heroically<!--539.png--><span class="pagenum">530</span>
+they struggled
+with them, through tangled jungle, dark forest, dense swamps, over
+plain and mountain, up, down and across unknown lakes and rivers, amid
+beasts of prey and hostile peoples, in the face of rain, wind and unkind
+climates! And all the while that they were toiling and dying, what weird
+and wonderful revelations came, now from the Nile, with its impenetrable
+sudds, its strange animal life, its teeming populations; now from the
+magnificent plateaus of the centre with their mighty and enchanting
+lakes, filled with strange fishes, on whose banks reveled peoples
+keen for trade or war, happy, if left alone, in smiling gardens and
+comfortable homes; now from the swift rolling Zambesi, shaded with mighty
+forests alive with troops of monkeys, vocal with bird songs, swarming
+with beasts, whose waters dashed here against curved and rocky banks,
+and there headlong over rocks higher than Niagara, bearing everywhere a
+burden of life in the shape of savage crocodiles, bellowing hippopotami
+and ponderous rhinoceri; now from Kalihari, the great desert of the south
+which balances that of the north, with stunted yet energetic populations,
+its troops of zebras, ostriches, giraffes, buffaloes, elephants, lions,
+leopards, making a paradise for hunters, with its salt pans, its strange
+grasses and incomprehensible geology; now from the great plain regions
+between the lakes and the water system of the western ocean, where are
+prairies that vie in extent and fertility with those of the Mississippi
+valley, where the numerous Dinkas dwell, brave in chase, rich in splendid
+herds of cattle, with cosy homes, surrounded by plantations of maize
+and sorghum and bananas; where also the Niam-Niams dwell, equally brave
+and rich and kind, yet savage when stirred, and formidable with their
+home-made iron spears and bright battle axes and swords; where too the
+Monbuttus dwell, rivals of their northern neighbors in agriculture,
+architecture and art, rich in corn and cattle, protected from intruders
+by a standing army of agile dwarfs, who know no fear and who make
+unerring use of their poisoned arrows in cunning ambuscade and in open
+fields; and now from the Congo itself, stream of African streams, island
+variegated in one stretch, cataract angered in another, draped with
+forest foliage everywhere, bounded by fertile shores backed by endless
+plains, pouring along through riches of gum, dyes, hard-woods such as
+would enrich kingdoms, supporting
+a<!--540.png--><span class="pagenum">531</span>
+water life as varied and gigantic as
+any other African lake or river, sustaining a population of incomputable
+numbers, opening a water way into the very heart of the continent for
+steamers, inviting the civilized world to come and go, partake and enjoy.</p>
+
+<p>As all these surprising revelations were given to the outer world, by
+the pioneers of civilization who were struggling within Africa, we began
+to get new conceptions of situations whose existence never dawned on
+those who were skimming the ocean’s shores and fighting the battles of
+commerce. A new world had been brought to light, not only geographically,
+but as to its soil, water, vegetation, animals, people, climate, and
+every physical aspect. It was a world to be envied, possessed and
+reclaimed, because it was one which could be made to contribute to the
+wealth and happiness of all outside of it. Moreover, it was one to which
+all could contribute, not only of their better material things, but of
+their better social and moral things. Commerce decided at once that there
+was a demand for Africa. Politics cried out for its possession. Humanity
+and Christianity found a new and solemn duty in Africa.</p>
+
+<p>It was not the province of the first traveler and explorer to argue
+questions which belong to others and to the future. He could state what
+he saw and felt&mdash;how hot the sun was, what the rain-fall, the quantity
+and nature of the resources. But when he revealed and mapped a new world,
+and created a desire for its possession and civilization by others,
+there was no fighting shy of the problems involved in the proposed new
+destiny. A thousand and one things would come up which had never arisen
+before. Many of these problems are of minor moment, many momentous.
+Some involve others, some are sweeping. There is one which overshadows
+all. Some would ask, “How shall we go about colonizing and civilizing
+Africa?” This question is the rind of an apple. At the core is another.
+Can the proposed colonizers and civilizers exist in Africa? After that is
+determined, we shall know pretty well how to do the rest.</p>
+
+<p>Of all African explorers, Stanley has made this vital question the most
+conspicuous, because he, almost alone, has coupled pioneering effort with
+state building and the colonizing and civilizing process. He has been
+forced to face the climatic situation since
+it<!--541.png--><span class="pagenum">532</span>
+came squarely across his
+industrial and commercial plans and involved the question of capital,
+which is far more sensitive and cowardly than even human life.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley’s personal career in Africa, as well as his extensive experience
+with others, goes far to establish the fact that the white race cannot
+transfer itself bodily and permanently to tropical African soil, with the
+hope of survival. The difficulty is not because it is white, but because
+its customs and environment are at variance with those which perpetuate
+life and conduce to labor under the Equator.</p>
+
+<p>In the north temperate zone a man may believe himself capable of
+persistent effort and heroic work. He may think he has intelligence,
+valor and strength sufficient to sustain him under the greatest
+privations. But land him in Africa and he is both witless and nerveless.
+He has never learned the art of living the life that is required there.
+He is not the same being he was when he started out so hopefully and
+valorously. He finds he lacks equipment for his new existence, mental,
+moral and physical. A sacrifice is demanded. It is the sacrifice of an
+almost perfect transformation, or else the confession of failure must
+conclude his career.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley’s most melancholy chapters are those which narrate the oozing out
+of ambitions, the confessions of cowardice, and the shirking away of his
+white companions, on the discovery that their civilized lives had been
+no school of preparation for healthful, energetic and useful existence
+in Equatorial Africa. It was a painful study to note how in the face of
+tropical realities, the fervid imaginations and exaggerated anticipations
+which had led them heroically on took flight, leaving them hapless
+malingerers, hopeless despondents, and unfit for anything but retreat.
+He had no fault to find where brave men fell through actual physical
+weakness, but the general fault, the grave, almost unpardonable mistake,
+was the terrible one of not knowing what they were at home and what they
+were to be in Africa. He says:&mdash;“The influence of the wine or beer, which
+at the first offset from Europe had acted on their impulses like the
+effect of quinine on weakened nerves, soon evaporated in a wineless land,
+and with their general ignorance of adaptation to foreign circumstances,
+and a steady need of the
+exhilarating<!--543.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_534" id="Page_534">534</a></span>
+influence of customary stimulants,
+an unconquerable depression usurped the high-blown courage it inspired,
+which some called nostalgia (home-sickness) and some hypochondria. Many
+had also, as they themselves confessed, come out merely to see the
+great river. Their imaginations had run riot amid herds of destructive
+elephants, rapacious lions, charging buffaloes, bellowing hippopotami,
+and repugnant rhinoceri, while the tall lithe-necked giraffe and the
+graceful zebra occupied the foreground of those most unreal pictures.
+Their senses had also been fired by the looks of love and admiration cast
+on them by their sweethearts, as they declared their intention to ‘go out
+to the Congo regions,’ while many a pleasant hour must have been spent
+together as they examined the strange equipments, the elephant-rifles,
+the penetrative ‘Express,’ and described in glowing terms their life in
+the far off palmy lands watered by the winding Ikelemba or the mighty
+Congo. Thus they had deluded themselves as well as the International
+Committee, whose members looked with eyes of commendation as the inspired
+heroes delivered with bated breath their unalterable resolution to ‘do or
+die.’</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_533.jpg" width="600" height="402"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AFRICAN RHINOCEROS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>“But death was slow to attack the valorous braves while the doable lay
+largely extended before them. The latter was always present with its
+exasperating plainness, its undeniable imperativeness which affronted
+their ‘susceptibilities,’ and ignored their titles and rights to
+distinction. The stern every-day reality, the meagre diet and forbidding
+aspect, humbled their presumption. When they hear that in this land there
+is neither wine nor beer, as they have known them, nor comfortable cognac
+to relieve the gnawing, distressful hankering they suffered for their
+usual beverages, their hearts beat more feebly. They begin to see that
+those bright African images and beautiful dreams of tropical scenery
+and excitement are replaced by unknown breadths of woodless regions,
+exuberant only with tall spear grass and jungly scrub. The hot sun dares
+them to the trial of forcing a way through such scarcely penetrable
+growth. Distance and fatigue, seeming to be immense beyond any former
+conception, masters their resolution; and, alas! and alas! there are no
+fair maidens with golden hair to admire their noble efforts at doing and
+dying.</p>
+
+<p><!--544.png--><span class="pagenum">535</span></p>
+
+<p>“Conscience, or the prickings of shame, may whisper to a few not quite
+lost in despondency, that there is brave work to be performed, and that
+they may experience the colonist’s pleasure of seeing the vegetables,
+fruit-trees and plants grow instead of that cane-grass and jungle now
+covering the broad acreage. But some answer, ‘Bah! I did not come to
+work; I came to hunt, to play, to eat, and to receive a big salary from
+the Commission.’</p>
+
+<p>“‘Do you feel fatigued? Try some hot tea or coffee.’</p>
+
+<p>“‘What!’ shriek they. ‘Try Congo water! No, thank you; my stomach was
+made for something better than to become a nest for young crocodiles.’”</p>
+
+<p>In all the foregoing Stanley speaks of the white help that was furnished
+him for his mission to found the Congo Free State. The help was of a high
+grade, being composed of men who came recommended to the Commission.
+They were selected for their valor and skill at home and for their
+professed willingness to brave African climate and all the dangers of
+exploration and colonization. They were for the most part educated men
+and well qualified to engineer roads, build comfortable homes, establish
+trading and military stations, carry on just commerce and exercise wise
+government over consenting tribes and contiguous territories. They were
+young, ambitious men, who had their fames and fortunes to make and to
+whom failure at home would have been a misfortune and disgrace. Indeed,
+if one had been going to pick out a body of men for the express purpose
+of testing the question whether it is possible for the white races to
+exist and thrive in tropical Africa, establish civilized governments,
+cultivate the soil, carry on manufactures and commerce, redeem the
+natives, and introduce institutions such as are found at home, these
+would have been the men.</p>
+
+<p>But let us see how they fared. Stanley takes one as a sample&mdash;he does not
+fail to make honorable exceptions of those who behaved differently,&mdash;and
+this one perhaps, the loudest professor, at the start, of heroic zeal
+in his undertaking. He is conducted to the site of a newly established
+station and endowed with full authority. He is given an army of forty
+disciplined blacks, and two or three of his own color are left with him
+as companion and assistants. He is made a rich banker for the surrounding
+tribes by heaps of
+cloth<!--545.png--><span class="pagenum">536</span>
+bales, bags of beads, and bundles of
+brass-rods, the bank notes of the country, with full liberty to circulate
+them to the best advantage. The river at his feet swarms with fish of
+edible varieties, which he may catch in plenty, if he chooses to imitate
+the industry and ingenuity of the natives. The surrounding villages
+are full of fowls, and eggs are plenty. Sheep and goats can always be
+had, if the slightest attention is paid to their grazing and to their
+protection against wild beasts. In the west, goat’s milk, and in the
+centre and east, cow’s milk, can be had with little trouble. The natives,
+almost everywhere, raise sweet potatoes in abundance and sell them
+cheaply. Most villages have their fields of cassava, whose root yields
+a wholesome food, which can be prepared in a variety of agreeable ways.
+All of the ordinary garden vegetables, as tomatoes, beans, pumpkins, and
+onions can be grown with easy tillage. In his commissariat are stores
+of rice, canned vegetables, wheat flour, fish, meats, and soups from
+Europe, together with tea, coffee, butter, jam, condensed-milk, and in
+fact everything to tempt a palled palate or a weak stomach. The question
+of food is therefore settled in such a manner as to require very little
+exertion or sacrifice to make the supply permanent, varied and wholesome.</p>
+
+<p>What else is required? A strong block house is built, and this is
+surrounded by a comfortable dwelling, erected after the manner of the
+neatly thatched huts of the natives, or even after the more approved
+architecture of civilization, if time permits and the proper materials
+are at hand. A palaver is called and whites and natives put themselves
+on political and also commercial equality, with as much of social
+relationship as suits the tastes of either party. The solemn treaty is
+approved and promulgated, and the commandant of the station, governor of
+a province, official of a great state, arbiter of the destiny of tribes,
+custodian of the welfare of peoples, minister, judge, doctor, commercial
+agent, the man to whom civilization is looking as founder, teacher and
+exemplar; this wonderful man, so full of pride and responsibility, so
+exalted with a sense of duty, so endowed with grand opportunity, is ready
+for his instructions and commission. His domain is pointed out and the
+fact is impressed on him that it has been acquired with the sanction
+of the civilized world and that of the only parties on African soil
+capable<!--546.png--><span class="pagenum">537</span>
+of giving consent. He is left as master and sole arbiter of all
+questions that may arise, and only asked by the power that institutes him
+to be just in his dealings with the peoples he is to govern, to extend
+kindness to those for whom he has been made a protector, to prove that
+the authority imposed has not been misplaced. He is furnished with a
+written draft of instructions which is to be his code of laws, his state
+constitution, his plan for founding and developing his little empire.
+Could anything be more flattering to one’s ambitions? What greater
+inducement could one want to exercise every latent energy, to found
+deeply, build well and rule wisely? Visions of a future state, crowded
+with obedient, industrious subjects, crowned with wealth and prosperity,
+shedding lustre on its ruler, proclaiming to the world the success
+of a first and glorious experiment, ought to stimulate even the most
+indifferent to sublime endeavor.</p>
+
+<p>But a few months passes, during which the embryo potentate is left to
+himself. Then along comes Stanley, from an up-river journey, on a tour of
+inspection. Where he expects to see his block-house and cottages expanded
+into a substantial village, he witnesses only roofless structures,
+exposed goods and every evidence of decay. Rank weeds grow where a site
+had been cleared for a vegetable garden, and the forest is asserting
+itself on the ground prepared for a banana orchard. Perhaps the natives
+have been angered, for they hold the capital in a state of siege, the
+stores are empty and grim famine stalks where plenty should have reigned.
+Or else, not being bloody-minded, they withhold their help and presence,
+and leave a trading mart to perish through sheer disinclination to
+traffic. He who was to have been a ruler is worse off than a subject.
+Where ambition should have stimulated, indifference prevails. Industry
+has been lost in idleness. Glory has ended in shame. One word of comment,
+one look of reproach, brings a resignation and an abandonment, and the
+once proud adventurer who went out to see and conquer strange worlds,
+beats a hasty retreat to his comfortable European home to curse his
+folly and denounce the spirit that sought to sacrifice him. Failure is
+written between every line of the long story with which he regales his
+friends as he drops back into his old haunts and resumes
+the<!--547.png--><span class="pagenum">538</span>
+thread of
+civilized life, once so willingly broken by dreams of glory, wealth and
+humanitarian good.</p>
+
+<p>It may seem a surprise to the reader that Africa could so disillusion
+enthusiasts of the character above described. But he has only to follow
+Stanley along the line of the Congo, from one station to the other,
+and witness his disappointment on his return journey, to ascertain how
+frequent the failures were to improve opportunity or make even the
+slightest show of progress in building and cultivating. Nay more, since
+nothing could stand still, the signs of retrogression were still more
+frequent, and ruin marked the spots which he had dedicated to enterprise
+and prosperity. Why were these men so radically transformed? This is a
+mighty question. Was it the fault of Africa or of Europe?</p>
+
+<p>Stanley reasons thus: “The conditions of a healthy enjoyment of life in
+Africa are very little understood by men of this class. It is a difficult
+thing to impart to them the rudiments of the lesson of life. It is a most
+thankless task, and the effort to do so is so ungraciously received that
+I have often been repelled by the visible signs of non-appreciation.
+Rarely have I been encouraged to proceed by those to whom counsel was
+addressed. They do not seem to take any interest in what concerns
+their own health. They duly acknowledge that it is a duty they owe to
+themselves to be as careful as possible; they are civil with replies and
+ready with promises of amendment. But they do not practice what they
+promise, and that active zeal and watchful prudence which would seem to
+govern one who loves his own life and welfare I rarely see exhibited. The
+performance appears to be too irksome, and neither their intelligence nor
+their conscience is provoked to assist them. I remember Frank Pocock, who
+must (almost as the sound of my voice died away) have been meditating on
+that step by which he lost his life, and which caused me, for months, a
+pang of sorrow, each time I thought of his sad end.</p>
+
+<p>“I have observed also that not only in matters of self-preservation is
+this apathy evident, but that it is present in the every day duty of the
+expedition, which they are pledged to perform and for which they receive
+compensation. Any single order they will perform well and creditably,
+but if I accompany it with the
+expression<!--548.png--><span class="pagenum">539</span>
+of a hope that they will
+consider it a daily duty, the order becomes at once inoperative and is
+never observed. I have observed that such an order is too general to be
+followed; but a particular order will be mechanically obeyed. A promise
+of promotion, or higher pay, or a display of tender solicitude, creates
+no impression, and as yet I know of no motive powerful enough to excite a
+European or West African aborigine to distinguish himself by an assiduous
+interest in general work. The only people on whom my words created a
+prolonged impression were the foreign colored employes. Now to what may
+I attribute this absence of intelligent interest in their work which is
+characteristic of the European and the west coast native? Is it to the
+climate? Then why did it not affect all alike? Why did it not affect
+myself?</p>
+
+<p>“But of all the rabid absurdities I have encountered in the tropics, the
+preaching of a young fool on the merits of intoxicants, who has heard it
+from an old fool that there is nothing like whiskey, astonishes me most.
+Mr. Puffyface, while in a semi-maudlin state, has been heard declaring,
+in the hearing of a youthful enthusiast, that ‘after fourteen years’
+experience with the African fever, despite all that may be said against
+it, there is nothing like whiskey for curing it,’ For the benefit of
+after-comers let me prick this bloated bubble. Show me one of those old
+bloaters on the west coast of Africa and I will show you a sham and
+delusion. A few hours’ hard work in the interior would lay the lazy lion
+as low as a dead donkey. Gin and whiskey topers have lived long elsewhere
+than on the Niger and Congo, but if you meet him on the African coast a
+glance at his shirt will tell you the whole truth. If it is free from
+stains of bodily exudation, then he has simply been ‘sojering,’ and it
+will be difficult to say how long a time must elapse before the liver
+shows a deadly abscess or becomes indurated. But if you want to do
+humanity a kindness, trot him out on a ten-mile march through the African
+wilderness, and note the result.</p>
+
+<p>“On the Congo, where men must work and bodily movement is compulsory, the
+very atmosphere seems to be fatally hostile to men who pin their faith
+on whiskey, gin and brandy. They invariably succumb and are a constant
+source of anxiety and expense. Even if they are not finally buried out of
+sight and memory, they are
+so<!--549.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_540" id="Page_540">540</a></span>
+utterly helpless, diseases germinate in
+them with such frightful rapidity, symptoms of insanity are so frequent,
+mind-vacancy and semi-paralysis are so common, that they are hurried
+homeward, lest they draw down a few more curses on Africa which apply
+only to themselves.</p>
+
+<p>“The evils of brandy and soda in India need only be remembered to prove
+how pernicious is the suicidal habit of indulgence in alcoholic liquors
+in hot climates. The west coast of Africa is also too much indebted to
+the ruin effected by intemperance.</p>
+
+<p>“But it is my belief that the other extreme is unwise. To abstain
+entirely from drinking wine because intemperance is madness, is not
+what I inculcate, nor do I even recommend drinking in what is called
+moderation. I do not advocate ‘liquoring up’ at any time, provided the
+drinker keeps within the limits of sobriety. I advise no one, in the
+tropics, to touch liquor during the hours of daylight, unless prescribed
+by a medical man. Wine, good red or white wine, should be taken only
+after sunset at dinner. Then it should be watered and taken in moderate
+quantities, that it may sooth the nerves and conduce to early sleep.
+After a full night’s rest, one will rise with a clear head and clean
+tongue, and can as easily do a full day’s work in the tropics as in the
+temperate latitudes.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_541.jpg" width="600" height="378"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ELEPHANT UPROOTING A TREE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Stanley then goes on to correct misapprehensions about African climate
+and lay down rules of conduct which, if followed, would go far to insure
+a healthful condition. He takes a young European adventurer to the Congo,
+full of health and of the spirit of adventure. As soon as the anchor
+drops at Banana Point, the young man feels the perspiration exuding
+till his flannels, comfortable at sea, become almost unendurable. On
+stepping ashore the warmth increases and the flannels absorb perspiration
+till they cling to the body and oppress him with their weight. The
+underclothing is saturated, and he resembles a water-jug covered with
+woolen cloth. The youth makes an escape from this melting heat of 100&deg;
+to 115&deg; by going to the veranda of some friendly quarters. Here he does
+not observe that the temperature is 25&deg; cooler, but mops his brow, fans
+himself, lolls in his easy chair, and sighs at the oppressiveness.
+Presently some one recommends the reviving quality of
+wine.<!--551.png--><span class="pagenum">542</span>
+Anything to
+lift him out of the condition he is in! One drink gives him freshness
+and courage. Another reconciles him to the strange situation. A
+third produces conviviality, and then, in the midst of story-telling
+companions, who spin rare old yarns of coast fevers, elephant adventures,
+crocodile attacks, hippo-escapades, “nigger” sensations, evening draws
+on. There is dinner and more wine. Then comes the veranda again. It
+is now cool, delicious, inviting. He has forgotten his damp clothing.
+Bed-time comes. He retires to toss till morning, or to sleep in the
+midst of horrid dreams. When he rises, he is unwell. His tongue is
+furred and a strange lassitude pervades his body. Nausea sets in. In a
+few hours his face is flushed, his eyes water, his pulse runs high. The
+doctor is called, and he pronounces it a case of African fever. He is
+given a kind native nurse. The battle of sickness is fought to an end.
+Death may ensue, but the chances are always in favor of recovery, though
+convalescence is slow.</p>
+
+<p>Of a score who have witnessed this sight, each will have a theory. One
+will say, “What a pity he left his mother!” Another, “It must have been
+some organic weakness.” Another, “It was hereditary.” Another will cry
+out, “One more African victim!” The last one, and he as if in doubt and
+in an undertone, may venture to surmise that too much Portuguese wine may
+have been at the bottom of it&mdash;which is as bad as brandy.</p>
+
+<p>The truth of the matter is, ignorance was at the bottom of it all. The
+young man may not have thought he was sitting in a cool night air,
+according to his European notions of temperature, but an evening in
+Africa, or a draught of air, presents as dangerous a contrast with
+midday heat, or as insidious a cause for congestion, as in any other
+country. Stanley suffered with 120 attacks of fever, great and slight,
+and endured fully 100 of them before he began to suspect that other
+causes existed for them besides malaria and miasma, or that he had within
+himself a better preventive than quinine. His observations, directed
+toward the last to this one point, utterly astounded him with the fact
+that the most sickness might have been witnessed at those stations which
+were not surrounded by putrifying vegetation, but had been selected so
+as to secure the highest degree of health. Old Vivi is one of these
+spots,<!--552.png--><span class="pagenum">543</span>
+situated on a rocky platform, with steep drainage, and with the
+majestic river dashing off between the slopes of high mountains for a
+distance of forty miles. Yet Old Vivi is, with the exception of Manyanga,
+the sickliest spot in all the Congo Free State, according to his
+observations. If all preconceived notions of health had been correct, Old
+Vivi should be the healthiest spot on the Congo, certainly far more so
+than scores of the Upper Congo stations, situated within ten feet of the
+water’s edge and surrounded by hundreds of square miles of flat, black
+loam covered with dense, damp forests. Yet to dispatch the fever-stricken
+and emaciated sojourners of Old Vivi, Manyanga or Leopoldville to some
+one of these upper, isolated and shaded stations, proved to be like
+sending them to a sanitarium in the pine-woods or by the sea shore. The
+change is simply astounding. The patient takes on flesh, grows ruddy,
+healthful, pliant and hopeful.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley had much anxiety about the station at Kinshassa, because it was
+so low-lying, though in every other way convenient. But, strange to
+say, one of his commandants who was always feverish at Vivi, Manyanga
+and Leopoldville, escaped without an attack of fever, or any other
+indisposition, for eighteen months, when stationed at Kinshassa. He was
+equally anxious about Equator Station, situated as it was directly under
+the Equator. But the commandants all praise the climate as capital,
+with plenty of native products at hand, and no need of anything foreign
+except a little tea and coffee. Of the 29 Europeans in the service of the
+Congo Free State above Leopoldville, all served their three year term of
+service except two who were drowned, one who died of sickness and one who
+resigned on account of severe illness. The inference from these facts is
+that the nearer the coast the stations are and the more accessible they
+are by steamers, the better the facilities are for stores of whiskey,
+brandy and wines, whose free use is an invitation to African sickness.
+Also, that the further inland one goes the more experience he acquires as
+to the means of preserving health. Every day’s march inland is a species
+of acclimatization and a removal from temptation. It is a putting off of
+ignorance and a putting on of knowledge. Again, the farther up the Congo
+one goes the more he is freed from the draughts which haunt
+the<!--553.png--><span class="pagenum">544</span>
+ca&ntilde;ons
+of the lower streams. While Vivi is an ideal spot so far as every visible
+hygienic consideration goes, it is at the top of an immense funnel with
+its wide end toward the sea, and the sea breezes sweep up the channel
+with cumulative vigor, producing a difference of temperature between
+day and night, or shade and sunshine, which is fatal to the overheated
+toiler. And the same may be said of Manyanga and Leopoldville. But the
+wide, lacustrine stretches of Stanley Pool dissipate this deadly draught
+and equalize the day and night and sunshine and shade temperatures. Thus
+inner Central Africa becomes even healthier than the coast rind, as it
+were by natural laws. From which arises the strange anomaly that at the
+Equator it is not African heat a foreigner need dread so much as African
+cold.</p>
+
+<p>Yet no precaution against the oppressive heat must be neglected. And
+this precaution must become a law of life. It must not be spasmodic and
+remitting, but must be daily and hourly, in fact must be persisted in
+till the whole habit conforms to the environment, just as at home amid
+civilization. Captain Benton, after his visit to the Congo, proclaimed
+beef and beer as the true fortifying agents against the climate. Stanley
+says nay. Beef, he admits to be all right, in the sense of good,
+nourishing food. But, not beef alone, so much as that wholesome variety
+found in well cooked beef, mutton, game, fish and fowl, intermixed
+with potatoes, turnips, cabbages, beets, carrots, bread, butter, tea
+and coffee. Beers of civilization are too bilious for Africa, and the
+distilled spirits are fatally stimulating, leading up to a false courage
+which may tempt one to too much effort or to dangerous exposure to the
+sun’s rays. The Duke of Wellington’s health receipt for India is equally
+good in Africa: “I know of but one receipt for good health in this
+country, and that is to live moderately, drink little or no wine, use
+exercise, keep the mind employed, keep in a good humor with the world.
+The last is the most difficult, for I have often observed, there is
+scarcely a good-tempered man in India.”</p>
+
+<p>Moderation is the key to health in central Africa. It must be moderation
+in action, food and drink. Yet there must be engagement of body and
+mind, great good humor, contentment with surroundings. A lesson in these
+respects might be learned from
+the<!--554.png--><span class="pagenum">545</span>
+natives. It is often and truthfully
+said, that they are the happiest and freest from care of any people on
+the face of the globe. “Take no thought of the morrow, for ye know not
+what a day may bring forth,” is the gospel of health among Africans.
+Prodigal nature helps them to a philosophy, which we may call shiftless
+ease, happy-go-lucky-effort, or go-as-you-please contentment, but it,
+nevertheless, is only a crude modification of our more deliberately
+framed and higher sounding hygienic codes for the preservation of health
+when we are in their land and subject to their climate and conditions of
+living and working.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley exemplifies the effect of African cold in another way. In
+ascending the Congo in his steamers, the entire party enjoyed excellent
+health, notwithstanding the confinement to the stream and the almost
+continuous passage through reedy islands and along low, swampy shores.
+But on the descent, the swifter passage of the boats in the face of the
+prevailing west winds, and river draughts, produced a chill, during
+moments of inaction, which prostrated many of the crew, and resulted in
+serious cases of sickness. Anywhere under shelter, the body continued
+to perspire insensibly, but the moment it was struck by the wind, there
+resulted a condition which invariably ended in low fever.</p>
+
+<p>For the ill-health due to African cold, especially where the situation
+is like that at Vivi, the rainy season is a corrective, because then the
+cold winds cease and the temperature is uniform. But at the same time,
+the rainy season is the prelude to sickness in the lower and better
+protected situations. The Livingstone Congo Mission at Manteka is in a
+snug nest between high hills, entirely cut off from winds, and surrounded
+by beautiful gardens of bananas and papaws. Ordinarily it is a healthful
+spot, and ought to be so always, if freedom from exposure is a law of
+health. But after the rainy season it is unhealthy. A peculiarly clear
+atmosphere and a correspondingly hot sun follow the African rains. These
+cause rapid earth exhalations which rise up around the body like a
+cloud, and soon deluge the person with perspiration. These exhalations
+bear the odors of decaying vegetation and become as pernicious as the
+effluvia from a dung-heap, unless resort is had to the heat of stoves or
+fire-places to counteract their deadly
+effects.<!--555.png--><span class="pagenum">546</span>
+Due care in this respect
+is all that is required to insure immunity from sickness caused by these
+evaporations.</p>
+
+<p>Even the plateaus are not exempt from fevers. But they for the most
+part are covered with long grass. Vegetation so luxuriant, falling and
+decaying, constantly fermenting and fertilizing, would be a source of
+sickness anywhere. When once they are cleared and planted to corn, wheat
+or vegetables, this source of sickness will disappear. A well ventilated
+home, in the midst of a cleared and cultivated plateau, is as healthful
+in Africa as in any other part of the world. The lessons of health taught
+daily by the natives ought to be a constant study for foreigners. They
+fight entirely shy of the ca&ntilde;ons of the Congo, whereas at Stanley Pool
+there is an army of ivory-traders. Then the immediate banks of the river
+are comparatively deserted, except where the spaces are open. The gorges,
+and deep valleys of tributaries, are by no means favorite dwelling
+places, though they are too often the sites of mission-houses and trading
+posts. The fetishes of the natives could not prevail against disease in
+the hollows and shaded nooks of their land, nor can the drugs of the
+white races. The native seeks a cleared space, open to sunshine, elevated
+so as to insure circulation of air, and for the most part, he looks down
+on the less favorable abodes of the foreigner.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley summarizes the causes of ill-health in Africa, and arranges
+them in the order of effectiveness. He gives as the most serious (1)
+cold draughts. (2) Malarious hollows. (3) Intemperate living. (4) Lack
+of nourishing food. (5) Physical weakness, indolence of mind and body,
+general fool-hardiness. One source of encouragement became manifest as
+years rolled by, and that was the constant diminution of illness among
+the officials of the Congo Free State. This was in some degree due to the
+doctrine of “survival of the fittest,” looked upon from a constitutional
+standpoint, but in the main to the willingness of the survivors to learn,
+and their learning consisted in putting away the habits they had formed
+abroad and the assumption of those which fitted their new estate.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to the formation of the African continent, with its fringe of low
+land and its miles of slope up to the central plateau, the prevailing
+winds sweep inland from the ocean, over the
+pestilential<!--556.png--><span class="pagenum">547</span>
+lowlands,
+bearing the seeds of disease. This meteorological law must be met by the
+inland dwellers, in order to secure immunity from disease. And it can be
+met very readily, as experience proves, by the planting of tree barriers
+on the ocean side of residences and plantations.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley’s observations thus far relate to the climatology of central
+Africa as affecting the health of the white resident. He next discusses
+the question of tropical heat as it affects the effort of the white
+races. The intensity of the Congo heat is by no means such as the casual
+reader would suspect. An average of the highest temperatures in the year
+gives a mean of only 90&deg;, while that of the lowest gives a mean of 67&deg;.
+Clad in suitable clothes a European or American can do as much work in a
+day in Africa as at home, provided he works under an awning or roof. In
+the sun, the temperature is, of a clear day, as much as 115&deg;, which would
+be fatal to one standing still. The ill-effects of such a heat are seldom
+apparent on a march, though for the comfort of all concerned Stanley
+usually limited his marching hours to from 6 A.M. to 11 A.M., thus giving
+ample time to prepare evening camps and to rest, feed and recuperate.</p>
+
+<p>In tropical Africa there is manifest coolness for three months of the
+year. During the other nine months there is so much cloud and such an
+abundance of tempering breezes, as to prevent that intense heat which
+one would expect under the Equator or within the tropics. The nights are
+seldom oppressive, and though in temperate latitudes one might not feel
+the need of a blanket, such an article becomes an indispensable luxury in
+Africa.</p>
+
+<p>At any point where facilities offer, as at a factory, trading station
+or mission, there is no need of exposure to the sun during work hours.
+Awnings are, or should be, a part of the equipment of every white African
+sojourner, but if these are wanting the trees are plenty, and their
+gracious shade will answer as a substitute. Few craftsmen in any country
+are compelled to work without cover, and it requires but an extension of
+the rule to make labor safe in Africa.</p>
+
+<p>Exercise of any kind in Africa induces copious perspiration, and it
+should never be forgotten that between a state of action in
+the<!--557.png--><span class="pagenum">548</span>
+sun, or
+even under cover, and a state of rest in the shade, means a difference in
+temperature equal to 25&deg;. This is a sure cause of congestion and other
+bodily derangements. It is the one invariable climatic law in Africa, and
+is wholly different from that at Para, where the variations are only 9&deg;,
+thus insuring immunity from all diseases which have a cause in sudden
+or radical changes of temperature. Climatic inequality is deadlier in
+Equatorial Africa than its malaria. Yet it can be guarded against, and
+that too by the simplest precautions.</p>
+
+<p>The early explorers, pioneers and commercial agents in Africa, especially
+on the west coast, were ignorant of the foregoing facts. Hence so many
+of them lost their lives needlessly. Hence the terrible stories borne
+home of the deadly effect of African heat and climate. They had never
+studied the law of adaptation, and instead of helping to solve the
+problem of white occupancy they only contributed to its defeat. In the
+wiser experience of Stanley a secret has been brought forth which, in
+its bearing upon the future of the country, is not even surpassed in
+importance by the opening of the Congo itself.</p>
+
+<p>Tropical food is of as much moment to a foreigner as climate. It is clear
+that alcoholic stimulants are dangerous. Tea has a depressing tendency
+and the same may be said of coffee, though both are grateful, for a time
+at least. Cocoa tends to biliousness. Milk is hard to obtain on the west
+coast, though it may be had in the cattle producing sections of the
+centre and east. Soup implies fresh meat, and is therefore limited to
+the broth of the goat, sheep or chicken, unless it come in canned shape.
+Palm-wine, except when fresh, injures the kidneys and stomach. All taste
+is soon lost for the canned goods of civilization. Flour, rice and the
+native fruits and vegetables are wholesome standards.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley’s code of health for the white sojourner in Africa would be as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>Never build a house, factory or mission in a ravine or valley which may
+serve as a wind channel. Air must diffuse itself generally and gently.
+Points near the sea, plateaus and open plains are the safest localities
+for homes. All lower stories should be clear of the ground. In grassy
+sections the first floor should be elevated to the height of a second
+story.</p>
+
+<p><!--558.png--><span class="pagenum">549</span></p>
+
+<p>Avoid all unnecessary exposure to the sun.</p>
+
+<p>Guard against fogs, dews, exhalations, and night chills, by kindling
+fires.</p>
+
+<p>Preserve a generous diet, avoiding oily and fatty foods.</p>
+
+<p>Meats should not be eaten in large quantities at breakfast.</p>
+
+<p>Take an early dinner, say at 11 o’clock, and let it be of meats, fish and
+vegetables. Cease work till 1 P.M.</p>
+
+<p>Quit work at 6 P.M., and eat a second dinner, boiled fish, roast fowl or
+mutton, with plenty of vegetables. A glass of watered wine will not hurt
+then.</p>
+
+<p>Seek amusement in social conversation, reading or games, till 9 P.M., and
+then retire.</p>
+
+<p>Sleep on blankets, and cover with a blanket.</p>
+
+<p>If marching, rise at 5 A.M., march at 6, and halt for the day at 11 A.M.
+When halted, seek shelter and put on a heavier coat.</p>
+
+<p>Observe the strictest temperance. Don’t indulge in tonics or nostrums.
+A little quinine is the safest tonic. If thirsty drop an acid powder in
+your drinking water, or take a sip of cold tea.</p>
+
+<p>Use an umbrella when in the sun. The best head dress is a cork helmet, or
+Congo cap.</p>
+
+<p>If in a perspiration when wetted by rain or at a river crossing, change
+your dress immediately.</p>
+
+<p>Go on a march in very light clothing, and let it be of flannel, with
+light russet shoes for the feet.</p>
+
+<p>When permanently stationed, wear light clothing in order to avoid
+excessive perspiration when called on for sudden duty.</p>
+
+<p>Don’t fail to exercise freely. Have certain hours for it, morning and
+evening, if your work is in doors.</p>
+
+<p>Do not bathe in cold water, especially after you are in the country for a
+time. Water below 85&deg; in temperature is dangerous.</p>
+
+<p>Tropical fruits should be eaten only at breakfast.</p>
+
+<p>Medicines specially prepared for tropical diseases can always be had of
+European druggists, and a supply should be on hand.</p>
+
+<p>The diseases of central Africa are simple, consisting of dysentery and
+three kinds of fever, ague, remittent, and bilious.</p>
+
+<p>Common ague is never fatal. It may be prevented, if one observes the
+symptoms.</p>
+
+<p><!--559.png--><span class="pagenum">550</span></p>
+
+<p>The remittent fever is simply aggravated ague, it may last for several
+days.</p>
+
+<p>The bilious fever is often pernicious. Its severity depends on the
+habits of the patient, the amount of exposure which produced it, and the
+strength of the constitution. It is preventable, but not by brandy or
+excessive smoking, as many foolish people think.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Martin, in his work on the “Influences of Tropical Climates,” also
+lays down a code which is both interesting and valuable.</p>
+
+<p>1. Care in diet, clothing and exercise are more essential for the
+preservation of health than medical treatment.</p>
+
+<p>2. The real way to escape disease is by observing strict temperance, and
+to moderate the heat by all possible means.</p>
+
+<p>3. After heat has morbifically predisposed the body, the sudden influence
+of cold has the most baneful effect on the human frame.</p>
+
+<p>4. The great physiological rule for preserving health in hot climates is
+to keep the body cool. Common sense points out the propriety of avoiding
+heating drinks.</p>
+
+<p>5. The cold bath is death in the collapse which follows any great fatigue
+of body or mind.</p>
+
+<p>6. Licentious indulgence is far more dangerous and destructive than in
+Europe.</p>
+
+<p>7. A large amount of animal food, instead of giving strength, heats the
+blood, renders the system feverish, and consequently weakens the whole
+body.</p>
+
+<p>8. Bread is one of the best articles of diet. Rice and split vetches are
+wholesome and nutritious. Vegetables are essential to good health, as
+carrots, turnips, onions, native greens, etc.</p>
+
+<p>9. Fruit, when sound and ripe, is beneficial rather than hurtful.</p>
+
+<p>10. The same amount of stimulant undiluted, is much more injurious than
+when mixed with water.</p>
+
+<p>11. With ordinary precaution and attention to the common laws of hygiene,
+Europeans may live as long in the tropics as anywhere else.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley’s final observation on the existence of the white race in Africa
+does not smack of the confidence he has thus far striven to inspire. Yet
+it does not suggest an impossibility, nor anything difficult to carry
+out, since the continent is so contiguous to
+Europe.<!--560.png--><span class="pagenum">551</span>
+He recommends a
+change of scene to the African denizen for at least three months in a
+year, because the constant high temperature assisted by the monotony
+and poverty of diet, is enervating and depressing. The physical system
+becomes debilitated by the heat, necessitating after a few years such
+recuperation as can be found only in temperate latitudes. Even with
+persons who retain health, this enervating feeling begins to dawn at
+the end of eighteen mouths; hence traders, missionaries, planters and
+agriculturists, who hope to keep up buoyancy of spirit and such a
+condition of body as will resist the climate through a lifetime, should
+seek the periodical relaxation to be found in trips to higher latitudes.</p>
+
+<p>While this may not be giving his whole case away, or indeed suggesting
+nothing more than such change of scene as our own physicians recommend
+to overtaxed business men, it, nevertheless, brings up the ultimate
+question of natural and permanent fitness. Suppose that all fear of
+African climate is eliminated from the mind of the white man. Suppose
+it is settled that he can survive there to a good old age, by using
+the precautions herein laid down. Will any traveler, climatologist or
+ethnologist arise and tell us that the white man can escape physical
+degeneracy in the tropics? As his African offspring come and go for a
+few generations, will there not be a gradual loss of the hardihood which
+temperate climates encourage, and a gradual growth of that languor and
+effeminacy which equatorial climates engender? The presence of the white
+races in Africa can neither reverse the laws of their existence and
+growth, nor the laws which God has given to a tropical realm. Living
+nature, including man, is simply obedience to an environment. We agree
+to this in the vegetable world. The oak of our forest is the puny lichen
+of the arctic regions. The palm of the tropics withers before northern
+frost. Reverse the order, and the lichen dries up beneath a tropical sun.
+The oak finds nothing congenial in African soil. As to the lower animals,
+it is the same. Stanley found both mule and donkey power ineffective on
+the Congo. Livingstone’s mules were bitten by the tsetse fly on Nyassa
+and died a miserable death from ulcers. The horse dwindles away within
+the tropics. The camel fared no better than the mule with Livingstone,
+though the Arab may be said to have conquered the Great Sahara with it,
+and<!--562.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_553" id="Page_553">553</a></span>
+Col. Baker used it to overcome Nile distances which defied his
+boats. Even the native and trained buffalo was a failure with Livingstone
+when he attempted to make it a beast of burden through Nyassaland and
+into the Upper Congo section, notwithstanding the fact that it had been
+invaluable to him below the tropics, and in the form of the native ox is
+in daily use as a beast of burden and travel in the Kalihari regions. So
+take the elephant, lion, leopard, hippopotamus, alligator, soko, monkey,
+the birds, the fishes, and transport them north; how quickly they cease
+to propagate, and in the end perish! Thus far living nature seems to obey
+the immutable law of environment. It is equally so with the higher animal
+life which we find in man. The negroes, who were torn from their native
+soil by the cruel hand of slavery, could not be transplanted with success
+in latitudes remote from the tropics. It cannot yet be proved that the
+white races will deteriorate and grow effeminate in tropical Africa,
+but as to other tropical countries it is established that white energy
+is gradually lost in effeminacy wherever it persists in the unnatural
+attempt to face the eternal blaze of the equatorial sun.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_552.jpg" width="600" height="395"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">COL. BAKER’S WAY OF REACHING BERBER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is well to study these things amid the glowing imagery of African
+vegetation, soil and resource, the unseemly scamper of the nations for
+African possessions, the enthusiasm over Christian conquest and heathen
+redemption. The real transforming power of the continent may not be at
+all in white occupancy; it cannot be, if such occupancy means white
+degeneracy, or such a sacrifice as the situation does not warrant. But
+it may lie, more wholly than any one living suspects, in the natives
+themselves, assisted and encouraged by the leaven of civilization,
+gradually introduced. They are there naturally and for a purpose. God
+will not alter his laws, and man cannot, brave as the latter may be, fond
+as he may be of possession and power, lustful as he may be of wealth,
+boastful as he may be of his civilization, proud as he may be of his
+humanitarianism, desirous as he may be to convert and Christianize.
+Africa means 200,000,000 of people, backed by a peculiar climate,
+fortified by an environment which is as old as the beginning of things.
+Let the civilization which is foreign to it all beware how it strikes it,
+lest, in the end, the effort prove a sad confession of failure.
+The<!--563.png--><span class="pagenum">554</span>
+good
+which is to come out of African elevation should be reciprocal. It is not
+good if it presupposes white occupancy followed by white degeneracy.</p>
+
+<p>Centuries ago the brave, enthusiastic Saracen, propagandist of a faith,
+warrior for the sake of Mohammed, left his Arabian home and went forth
+into pagan Africa on a mission of conquest and conversion. Granting that
+Egypt, the Barbary States and the Oases of the Sahara are better off
+to-day than they were when they first caught sight of the victorious
+banners of the crescent, which is admitting all the truth will allow,
+how much superior to the chivalrous Saracen is the bigoted Mahdi, his
+depraved Soudan follower, or the Arab slave stealer, who is ubiquitous in
+east-central Africa to-day? There is a wonderful, a sad, descent from the
+Saracen conqueror to a benighted Mahdist. The contrast between a chief
+of Arabian troopers and such a chief as Tippoo Tib is enough to show
+degeneracy of the most ultra type. The brave, fiery Saracen, sweeping
+along the coasts and through the deserts, was a being infinitely superior
+to anything he came in contact with. His progeny, after centuries of
+acclimatization and intercourse with the native populations, is a lazy,
+inferior being, a curse to his surroundings, not half such a man as the
+native whom he plunders and carries off as human booty. He has failed to
+lift Africa to the height of a Mohammedan civilization, and has descended
+to a level even lower than the paganism with which he came in contact.
+Do not forget that in many respects he had adaptation superior to that
+any European or American can claim. He was contiguous to Africa. He had
+been reared under a burning sun. His color was dark. His heath was sandy
+like the sands of Egypt and Sahara. His ship was the camel which became
+the courser of the African wastes and by means of which he could connect
+the Nile bends more swiftly than we can do to-day with steamers. He had
+all the enthusiasm and persistency of a Christian missionary, all the
+ardor of an English merchant, all the vigor of a civilized pioneer, all
+the desire for possession of a monarchical potentate. Yet he degenerated
+into a thief of men and a murderer of innocence. The least respected,
+the crudest and most useless man on the face of the globe to-day is an
+Arab slave catcher. The chivalry of his
+fathers<!--564.png--><span class="pagenum">555</span>
+has no place in his
+bosom. The industry and the sense of beauty and refinement which the
+Moor carried northward into Spain were utterly lost in the swing toward
+the tropics. The Allah and Koran of Mecca are profane mummery in the
+Soudan, at Zanzibar, and on the banks of Tanganyika. It is not necessary
+to inquire what inherent causes helped to contribute to this deplorable
+result. We know that vital defects existed in the Mohammedan system, and
+that these defects were in part to blame. The only inquiry we make is,
+how much of that result was due to the African climate, the impact with
+tropical peoples and customs, the equatorial environment? For some cause,
+or better still, for all causes combined, the last end of the Arab in
+Africa is worse than the first.</p>
+
+<p>If we study the impact on Africa of the Christian civilization of
+Portugal and even that of England, in its earlier stages, the result is
+not encouraging. The ruins of both trading and mission posts are sad
+witnesses of a misunderstanding of the true situation, or else monuments
+of a surrender to climatic difficulties which had not been anticipated.
+Our civilization was called off from a mad chase after the impossible,
+and it required years, even centuries, of consideration, before it dared
+a second attempt. In the meantime it learned much and in various ways.
+Inert, supine Portugal taught valuable lessons by her very incapacity.
+Patient Holland gave a valuable object lesson by peaceable conquests
+and her amalgamation with the South African peoples. All-conquering,
+commercial and Christian England afterwards came along to gather the
+harvests which others had sowed, yet to prove that something valuable
+in the shape of permanent colonization could be effected south of the
+tropics, and with mutual advantage. The pioneering spirit broke out as it
+had never done before, and out of it came lesson after lesson, of which
+certainly none were more valuable than those furnished by Stanley’s brave
+experiences.</p>
+
+<p>Whatever may be the future of the white race in Africa, it is certain
+that, just now, no consideration of climate, distance or inaccessibility,
+weighs to cool the enthusiasm of Christianity as it marches to a
+conquest of heathenism in equatorial wilds. It is face to face with all
+the problems above stated and may be the means of solving many of them
+favorably. It deserves a better fate
+than<!--565.png--><span class="pagenum">556</span>
+any that has hitherto befallen
+it. But the fate of all former outbursts and experiments should prove a
+standing warning. Missionaries are only men. The cause of God, as well as
+that of commerce, agriculture, science and art, may be best subserved by
+using God’s natural forces and observing his immutable laws.</p>
+
+<p>In a political sense, the mission of the white races in Africa has ever
+been a failure, and there is little transpiring at this hour, except the
+small beginnings of order and independence in the Congo Free State, but
+what is ominous of confusion and defeat. Greed for African possessions,
+jealousy of one another’s territorial thefts, threatened wars on account
+of undefined boundaries, petty usurpations of authority, these render
+unseemly the scramble for African acres, and bode no good to native
+Africans, whose allegiance is thereby rendered doubtful, whose fears
+are constantly at fever heat, who become as ready to train their spears
+and rush forth in battle array against one side or the other, as they
+are when their villages and gardens are invaded by neighboring tribes
+or marauding Arabs. They make colonization a farce, and reduce white
+dominancy to the level of cruel interference. The cold-blooded effrontery
+of this deliberate theft and partition of a continent, in a political
+sense, has nothing in morals to recommend it at any rate. There is
+nothing at the bottom of it except the aggrandizement of the Powers who
+commit the theft. Selfishness is the motive, however it may be glossed
+by the plea of a superior civilization. It regards no native rights,
+consults no native good, but in obedience to a spirit of tyranny and
+greed walks incontinently into the lands of a weak and helpless race, and
+appropriates them in true free-booting style, hoists its flag, and says
+to all comers, “Avaunt, this is mine!”</p>
+
+<p>The almost hopeless entanglement of foreign Powers in Africa to-day may
+be seen from a glance at the following “political sections” on the west,
+or Atlantic coast:</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Spain</td>
+  <td align="center">Claims</td>
+  <td align="left">Morocco.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">France</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">Morocco.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Spain</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">Opposite the Canaries.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">France</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">French Senegambia.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Britain</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">British Senegambia.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Portugal</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">Portuguese
+Senegambia.<!--566.png--><span class="pagenum">557</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Britain</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">Sierra Leone.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Liberia</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">A Republic.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">France</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">The Gold Coast.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">England</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">The Gold Coast.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">France</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">Dahomey.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">England</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">Niger.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Germany</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">Cameroons.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">France</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">French Congo.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Portugal</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">Portuguese Congo.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">International</td>
+  <td align="center">Commission</td>
+  <td align="left">Portuguese The Congo Free State.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Portugal</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">Angola.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Portugal</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">Benguela.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Germany</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">Angra Pequena.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">England</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">Walvisch Bay.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">Germany</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">Orange River.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="left">England</td>
+  <td align="center">“</td>
+  <td align="left">Cape of Good Hope.</td>
+</tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>Some of these claims are old, some new; some are confirmed, some vapid;
+some are direct political claims, some indirect, as where a protectorate
+only exists, and the real power is vested in a trading company, as in the
+British West African Company, with powers to occupy and develop the Niger
+country.</p>
+
+<p>Passing to the east coast of Africa we find the entanglement still worse.
+There are pretty well defined ownerships beyond the Trans-vaal, then
+comes Portugal’s general claim of the Zambesi, Mozambique and Delagoa
+Bay, interfered with and overlapped by England and Germany. North of
+this, the Sultan of Zanzibar, who claimed sovereignty indefinitely north,
+south and west, has been cramped into a few island spaces along the
+coast, and graciously permitted to retain the Island of Zanzibar, because
+no person can live on it except Arabs and natives. Germany extends a
+protectorate and the country back of Zanzibar, and inland indefinitely,
+though England is by her side with a similar claim, and taking care that
+such protectorate shall be as nominal as possible and shall not interfere
+with her claims upon the lake sections. Italy claims all between the
+German possessions and Abyssinia and has even invaded that State. These
+claims are made under the veneering of trading companies, whose acquired
+rights, vague as they may be, the parent country is bound to back up.
+Not one of them have well defined metes and bounds for operations. All
+are confused and confusing, and liable to provoke misunderstanding and
+blood-shed
+at<!--567.png--><span class="pagenum">558</span>
+any moment, and the consequent disgrace of our boasted
+civilization, in the eyes of all simple minded Africans at least.</p>
+
+<p>As a sample of the latest methods of land acquisition in Africa, and the
+consequences, one has but to study the recent bout between England and
+Portugal. The latter country claims the Delagoa Bay section, Mozambique
+and the Zambesi, indefinitely inland, and this though her rule has been
+limited to two or three isolated spots. On the Zambesi she established
+two or three trading and missionary stations which were used for a long
+time, but gradually fell into disuse. There is no dispute about her
+claims to the Zambesi section, though the Zulus south of the river do not
+recognize allegiance to her. The Zambesi, to a point five miles above the
+mouth of the Shir&eacute;, was declared a free river by the Berlin conference,
+so that there can be no dispute about that. So, there is no disposition
+to interfere with her claims to Mozambique or Delagoa, except as to their
+western boundary. To permit her to extend her claim to these territories
+westward till they met the boundaries of the Congo Free State, would be
+to give her possession of the Shir&eacute; River, Lake Shirwah and Lake Nyassa.
+Now starting at the Ruo affluent of the Shir&eacute;, England claims the entire
+Nyassa section, both by right of discovery&mdash;Livingstone discovered the
+lake&mdash;and occupation. Its non-native people are British subjects. She
+may not have taken the precaution to acquire rights of the natives by
+treaties, but neither has Portugal. Portugal never expanded, so to
+speak, beyond the coast on the line of the Zambesi, never did anything
+for the natives, and is charged with conniving with the slave trade. On
+the contrary, the established church of Scotland has many missionaries,
+teachers and agents in the Shir&eacute; Highlands. The Free Church of Scotland
+has several missionaries, teachers and artisans on Lake Nyassa. The
+Universities Mission has a steamer on the lake and several missionary
+agents. The African Lakes Company, chartered in England, has steamers on
+the Shir&eacute; river and Lake Nyassa, with twelve trading stations, manned by
+twenty-five agents. British capital invested in Nyassaland will equal
+$1,000,000. In his “Title Deeds to Nyassaland,” Rev. Horace Waller says:
+“Dotted here and there, from the mangrove swamps of the Kongone mouth of
+the Zambesi to the farthest extremity
+of<!--568.png--><span class="pagenum">559</span>
+Lake Nyassa, we pass the graves
+of naval officers, of brave ladies, of a missionary bishop, of clergymen,
+of foreign representatives, doctors, scientific men, engineers and
+mechanics. All these were our countrymen. They lie in glorious graves.
+Their careers have been foundation stones, and already the edifice rises.
+British mission stations are working at high pressure on the Shir&eacute;
+Highlands and upon the shores of Nyassa. Numbers of native Christians
+owe their knowledge of the common faith to their efforts. Scores of
+future chiefs are being instructed in schools spread over hundreds of
+miles. Commerce is developing by sure and steady steps. A vigorous
+company is showing to the tribes and nations that there are more valuable
+commodities in their country than their sons and daughters.”</p>
+
+<p>In view of all these things, and perhaps spurred to activity by them,
+Portugal, following the fashion of England, organized a South African
+Company with the intention of consolidating her African possessions, by
+operating from the east coast, with a base at Delagoa Bay, Mozambique
+and the mouth of the Zambesi. The announcement, lately made, that
+Mapoonda, chief of the natives in the Shir&eacute; River District&mdash;the Shir&eacute;
+River flows into the Zambesi from the north, and is the outlet of Lake
+Nyassa&mdash;had accepted Portuguese sovereignty, was a distinctive victory
+for the Portuguese in their contest with the British for the control of
+that section of the Dark Continent. In July, 1889, Mr. H. H. Johnston,
+an experienced African traveller and naturalist, and British consul
+at Mozambique, took passage with several British naval officers on a
+gunboat, which went up the Chinde mouth of the Zambesi and entered the
+Shir&eacute; river. At a point 100 miles north of its mouth, where the Ruo
+enters the Shir&eacute;, Consul Johnston on the 12th of August “performed
+the significant act of hoisting the British flag at the Ruo station,
+henceforth marking the limit of Portuguese authority.” This was intended
+to close Portugal out of Lake Nyassa, the extreme southern point of
+which is 150 miles north of Ruo. By securing Mapoonda, however, Portugal
+took actual possession of the territory immediately to the south of
+Lake Nyassa. The English expedition in going up the river passed Major
+Serpa Pinto, the Portuguese leader, with a force of about 700 Zulus
+under<!--569.png--><span class="pagenum">560</span>
+his command. Serpa Pinto was on his way to take possession of
+Nyassaland. Consul Johnston protested, and assured him that, if he
+persisted in his purpose, he would bring about a rupture between Portugal
+and England. Serpa Pinto finally promised to turn back, but as soon as
+Consul Johnston had moved forward the Portuguese commander resumed his
+march to Lake Nyassa, and when he reached Mapoonda, which commands the
+southern entrance to the lake, threw up fortifications there and began
+preparations for a battle with the neighboring Makololo, in which the
+latter were routed with great slaughter. This battle appears to have been
+decisive, and to have led the native chiefs to transfer their nominal
+allegiance from the British to the Portuguese with alarming rapidity.
+By securing Mapoonda as an ally, the Portuguese cut off England’s
+communications with Lake Nyassa via the Zambesi and Shir&eacute; rivers, and
+precipitated the crisis which was threatened by the recent Portuguese
+proclamation which assumed to annex the whole Zambesi region.</p>
+
+<p>This controversy which has already ended in the defeat of Portuguese
+designs, and which could have ended in no other way, because England
+is the stronger and more rapacious power, brings into play all the old
+arguments respecting colonial ambitions and enterprises. It will be
+remembered that for nearly two hundred years after the discovery of
+America, the European powers were a unit over the doctrine that first
+discovery gave a title to the discoverer. But when Great Britain awoke
+to the fact that this doctrine, if rigidly applied, would virtually
+dispossess her of American soil, notwithstanding the additional fact
+that she was proving to be the best permanent colonizer in Europe, she
+originated the new doctrine that actual possession of and settlement in
+a newly discovered country created a higher title than that of first
+discovery. This was a safe doctrine to adopt respecting America, for even
+then the English grip was now so strong as to be unshakable, and it was
+equally safe as to any other British claim, for the ocean supremacy of
+France, Spain and Portugal, her real rivals, was on the wane and hers was
+on the increase.</p>
+
+<p>So now, notwithstanding the claim of Portugal to her territory on both
+the African coasts, by right of discovery, England does
+not<!--570.png--><span class="pagenum">561</span>
+hesitate to
+enter the Nyassa and Shir&eacute; region, hoist her flag and claim the rights
+of sovereignty, on the ground that she is the first permanent occupant.
+The fact that she has tangible interests to protect&mdash;invested property,
+missions etc., serves to strengthen her attitude with other European
+powers. But aside from this she does not intend to let Portugal establish
+a permanent possession clear across Africa from the Atlantic, at Angola
+and Benguella, to the mouth of the Zambesi. Such a possession would
+simply cut the continent in two, and erect a barrier on the east coast to
+that union of the British African possessions which her foreign diplomacy
+designs. Moreover, it is fully settled in the mind of Great Britain that
+the Nile water-way and its extensions through Lakes Albert and Edward
+Nyanza, Tanganyika, Nyassa, and the Shir&eacute; and Zambesi rivers, are hers,
+even if force has to be applied to make them actually hers.</p>
+
+<p>But it must be said on behalf of Portugal, that she is not resting her
+rights on the ancient fiction of discovery alone. Her occupancy of the
+Zambesi region has, of late, become quite distinct and her vested rights
+have assumed impressive proportions. The management of her affairs are
+in the hands of Major Alberto da Rocha Serpa Pinto, whose exertions have
+greatly strengthened the Portuguese claims. His achievements in the
+way of African exploration give him high rank as a traveler, explorer,
+scientist and organizer. He was born in 1845 and educated for the
+Portuguese military service. In 1869 he first went to Africa, where he
+took part in the campaign against the rebellious chief Bonga, in the
+region of the Zambesi. He acquitted himself with distinction on the field
+of battle, and acquired wide repute as an explorer, by ascending the
+river as far as the Victoria Falls, making many important discoveries on
+the way, and crossing the African continent from one side to the other.</p>
+
+<p>Upon his return to Portugal, Serpa Pinto was received personally by the
+King, who was first to greet him when entering the harbor; Lisbon and
+Oporto were brilliantly illuminated in his honor, and he received many
+honors and marks of distinction from the sovereign and public bodies.</p>
+
+<p>In November, 1877, Serpa Pinto was again sent to Africa by
+the<!--571.png--><span class="pagenum">562</span>
+Portuguese Government and the Lisbon Geographical Society in
+conjunction. He organized a force of fourteen soldiers and fifty-seven
+carriers, and, starting from Benguella, he penetrated to the interior,
+traversing the districts of Dombe, Guillenguez, and Caconda, reaching
+Bih&eacute; in March of the following year. He was finally laid low with
+fever and carried by his faithful followers to the coast. Two of his
+subordinates, Brito Capello and Ivens, who have since become eminent
+as explorers, left the expedition in the interior, journeying to the
+northward to explore the river Quanza, while Serpa Pinto went to the
+eastward. On his return to Lisbon he was received with evidences of
+great esteem by the King, and was the object of popular adulation in
+all quarters. He described the sources of four great rivers heretofore
+unknown. His discovery of the river Coando, navigable for 600 miles and
+flowing into the Zambesi, alone placed Major Pinto in the rank of the
+great African explorers. After remaining in Portugal a few years, Serpa
+Pinto again returned to Africa, where he has since remained. In 1884, he
+made another extended journey of exploration, the results of which fully
+entitled him to the title of the Portuguese Stanley.</p>
+
+<p>Following his discoveries the Portuguese have built a short railroad
+inland from Delagoa, and have established a system of steam navigation
+on the Zambesi and Shir&eacute; rivers, and opened a large and prosperous
+trading establishment. The activity recently displayed by the British in
+southeast Africa has led them to push forward their advantages and seize
+everything they can lay their hands on while the opportunity offers.</p>
+
+<p>Commenting on this situation the London <i>Times</i> calls it “Major Serpa
+Pinto’s gross outrage on humanity and intolerable affront to England,” to
+which an American paper very appropriately replies:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>“Nothing would suit the English better than to have some excuse for
+wrenching away from little Portugal her possessions on the Dark
+Continent. England has played the cuckoo so many times with impunity that
+now it is believed a quickened public conscience will call a halt.</p>
+
+<p>“The merits of this particular case will hardly exert much influence in
+determining the fate of Portugal in Africa. Left to themselves, England
+would dispossess Portugal in the twinkling of
+an<!--572.png--><span class="pagenum">563</span>
+eye, for if Turkey is
+the sick man of Eastern Europe, Portugal is the national personification
+of senility in the West. Four or five hundred years ago it was the
+foremost nation of Europe in point of commercial enterprise. The ships
+of Portugal were the most adventuresome of any that ploughed the ocean.
+As long ago as 1419 a bold Portuguese tar, Zarco, skirted along Western
+Africa, far below the Equator, and later, Vasco de Gama doubled the
+Cape of Good Hope. Like Columbus, he sought the most direct route to
+India, and what the Genoese missed he found. The country which England
+is now impatiently eager to steal from Portugal is a part of the reward
+of that enterprise which revolutionized Oriental trade, and was second
+in importance to the world only to the discovery of America. It was as
+if both sought a silver mine, and the one who failed to find what they
+were after came upon a gold mine. Portugal may not have made very much
+use of her discovery for herself and her people, but mankind has been
+immeasurably benefited, and England incalculably enriched. For the latter
+to now turn around and rob Portugal of her African possessions, in whole
+or in part, would be poetic injustice. It would be the old fable over
+again of the farmer who warmed a snake in his bosom only to be bitten by
+it.”</p>
+
+<p><!--573.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_564" id="Page_564">564</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_564.jpg" width="600" height="328"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AFRICAN METHODIST CONFERENCE,
+1888.<!--574.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_565" id="Page_565">565</a></span>
+1: Bishop
+Wm. Taylor. 2: Chas. A. Pitman. 3: Jas. H. Deputie. 4: H. B. Capeheart.
+5: Jas. W. Draper. 6: Riding Boyce. 7: A. L. Sims. 8: Gabriel W. Parker.
+9: J. E. Clarke. 10: Anthony H. Watson. 11: Edwd. Brumskine. 12: Jno. W.
+Early. 13: J. Wood (L. P.). 14: Josiah Artis. 15: A. S. Norton (?) L. P.
+16: Dan’l Ware. 17: C. B. McLain. 18: Jos. W. Bonner. 19: Wm. P. Kennedy,
+Jr. 20: Benj. K. McKeever. 21: Benj. J. Turner. 22: Frank C. Holderness.
+23: Wm. T. Hagar. 24: Jas. W. Cooper. 25: Thos. A. Sims.</span>
+<a href="images/i_564x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<h2>
+MISSIONARY WORK IN AFRICA.
+</h2>
+
+<p>It is not alone as a commercial, scientific and political field that
+Africa attracts attention. No country presents stronger claims on the
+attention of Christian philanthropists. The Arabs entered Africa as
+propagandists of Islamism. The Portuguese advent was signalized by the
+founding of Catholic missions. When they arrived off the mouth of the
+Congo, in 1490, the native king, “seated on a chair of ivory, raised on
+a platform, dressed in glossy, highly colored skins and feathers, with
+a fine head-dress made of palm fibre, gave permission to the strangers
+to settle in his dominions, to build a church, and to propagate the
+Christian religion. The King himself and all his Chiefs were forthwith
+baptised, and the fullest scope was allowed to the Roman Catholic
+missionaries who accompanied the expedition to prosecute their appointed
+work.”</p>
+
+<p>Thus runs an old chronicle. It is valuable as showing the antiquity of
+Christian interest in Africa, as well as showing the fine opportunity
+then presented for introducing the gospel into benighted lands. We say
+fine opportunity, because Portugal was then a power, able and willing
+to second every effort of the church, and the church itself was well
+equipped for missionary work. Its zeal was untiring. Its formula was
+calculated to impress the African mind. The regalia of its priesthood
+was captivating. Its music was pleasing and inspiring. But the sequel
+proved that something was wrong. The priesthood laboured arduously,
+establishing missions, baptizing the natives by the thousand, adapting
+their ceremonies and processions to heathen rites and superstitions. The
+process was not that of lifting pagan souls to a high Christian level,
+so much as
+a<!--575.png--><span class="pagenum">566</span>
+lowering of Christian principles to a heathen level. Then
+the church was too dependent on, too intimate with, the state. Even
+Portuguese historians admit that physical force was frequently employed
+to bring the natives more completely under the will of the priests. The
+accounts given of some of the floggings which took place, both of males
+and female, would be alternately shocking and ludicrous, but for the fact
+that they were associated with the propagation of religion. Also, both
+church and state countenanced the crime of slavery, and fattened on the
+infernal traffic. The ultimate result of such a system might have been
+easily foreseen. After a long career of so-called missionary success,
+during which hundreds of mission stations were founded on the entire
+western and on a great part of the eastern coast of Africa, and many even
+far inland, the priests fell under the jealousy of the chiefs, clashed
+with them respecting polygamy and various other customs, and were finally
+forced back with the receding wave of European influence, when the
+power of Portugal began to wane. Within one hundred years of the above
+described arrival of the Portuguese missionaries off the mouth of the
+Congo, no trace of the labors of Catholic missionaries could be found and
+no tradition among the natives that they had ever been there. The finest
+mission stations elsewhere had fallen into ruins, and only those remained
+which were near ports of entry and fortified commercial points.</p>
+
+<p>It may be truthfully said that missionary work in Africa lay as if dead
+till the spirit of African discovery was revived in England by the
+formation of the British African Association, in the latter part of
+the eighteenth century. Even its first pioneers were not missionaries,
+but rather explorers in a commercial and scientific sense. They were,
+however, philanthropic Christian men, and the problem of evangelizing
+Africa was ever present in their minds. Among them were Leyard, Major
+Houghton, Mungo Park who met his death on the Upper Niger, Frederic
+Horeman, Mr. Nicholls, Prof. Roentgen, Mr. James Riley, Captain Tuckey
+who manned the first Congo expedition in 1816, Captain Gray and Major
+Laing, Richie and Lyon, Denham and Clapperton who pierced Bornou and
+visited Lake Tchad, Laing and Cailli&eacute; whose glowing descriptions of
+Timbuctoo were read with delight.</p>
+
+<p><!--576.png--><span class="pagenum">567</span></p>
+
+<p>These were followed at a later period by Richard and John Lander who
+really solved the problem of the Niger, and by Laird and Oldfield and
+Coulthurst and Davidson. Now came a time, 1841, when broader sympathies
+were enlisted. An expedition was organized under the direction and at
+the expense of the British Government which was not merely to explore
+the interior of the vast Continent, promote the interests of art and
+science, but check the slave trade, introduce legitimate commerce,
+advance civilization and social improvement, and thus prepare the way
+for the introduction of Christianity. For this purpose, treaties were
+to be formed with native princes, agriculture was to be encouraged, and
+Christian missions were to be established. Two missionaries went along,
+Rev. Messrs. Muller and Schon. The expedition began the ascent of the
+river Niger, but was soon forced to return. Failure was written over
+the enterprise, and the cause was the deadly climate, which had been
+too little studied in advance. African enterprise in the north again
+fell back on pioneering exploits, and we have the splendid researches
+of Barth, Krapf and Rebman in 1849, and in 1857 those still more
+brilliant efforts of Burton and Speke, who entered the continent from
+Zanzibar, on the east, and brought to light the mystery of Victoria
+Nyanza and Tanganyika. Following these came Baker, and then the immortal
+Livingstone, who united the pioneer and the missionary.</p>
+
+<p>Livingstone entered Africa in 1840, under the auspices of the London
+Missionary Society, and founded a missionary station at Kolobeng, South
+Africa, 200 miles north of the Moffat station at Kuruman. He married Rev.
+Robert Moffat’s daughter, and was thus doubly fortified for missionary
+work. He labored earnestly and faithfully in his field till driven by
+the hostility of the Boers to provide himself another mission further
+north and beyond the great Kalahari desert. After suffering untold
+hardships in his trip across the desert, he discovered Lake Ngami,
+decided that it would be a good base for further missionary work, and
+then returned for his wife. A third time he crossed the desert, which
+had been regarded as impassable, and this time with his family. It was
+the year 1851. He reached the river Chobe after a hard struggle, his
+animals having perished under the bites of the poisonous tsetse fly.
+Here he
+entered<!--577.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_568" id="Page_568">568</a></span>
+the kingdom of Sebituane, the renowned warrior, whose
+favor he had previously secured. But that chieftain had died, and his
+successor detained Livingstone for a time. When a permit was obtained to
+go where he pleased, he pushed on 130 miles to Sesheke, and thence to
+the Zambesi, in the center of the continent, in the country of the famed
+Macololos. But finding the country too unhealthy for a permanent mission,
+he returned to Cape Town, whence he planned and carried to success a
+journey back to the Zambezi, and westward, through the Macololos and
+other tribes, to Loanda in Angola, quite across the continent. This was
+in 1852. This journey came about because, when at Cape Town, he learned
+of the total destruction of his parent mission station at Kolobeng by the
+Boers. This left him without a pastoral charge, but it proved a turning
+point in his life. Henceforth the field of adventure and exploration
+was his, and he easily became the most noted of African travelers, till
+Stanley established for himself a greater fame. What the Church lost
+a whole world gained. His further travels, how he lost and buried his
+faithful wife on the banks of the Shir&eacute;, his own sad death in the swamps
+of Lake Bangweola, the return of his dead body to Zanzibar, borne by his
+faithful servants Chuma and Susi, have all been described elsewhere in
+this volume.</p>
+
+<p>The recent advance of the Portuguese toward the head-waters of the
+Zambesi, and their reduction of the Macololo territory to a Portuguese
+possession, together with the complications with other ambitious nations
+of Europe, likely to grow out of it, bring that strange Central African
+people again into prominence. The region was made known, in olden times,
+by the Portuguese traveler, Silva Porto, who described it as fertile, and
+the people as of divided tribes. But Livingstone describes the section
+as the empire of the Macololos, and gives many glowing descriptions of
+the people, their rulers, products and possessions. He was well received
+by them, liked their country, and left a profound impression among
+them, for Major Serpa Pinto, in his visit many years afterwards, found
+Livingstone’s name mentioned everywhere among the then detached and
+demoralized tribes with respect.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 412px;">
+<img src="images/i_569.jpg" width="412" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">CHUMA AND SUSI.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 492px;">
+<img src="images/i_570.jpg" width="492" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">KING LOBOSSI.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>According to Livingstone, the powerful Basuto tribe, south of the
+Zambesi, crossed to the north side under the lead of their
+chief,<!--579.png--><span class="pagenum">570</span>
+Chibitano, and reduced the numerous tribes who inhabited the vast
+stretches of country as far as the river Cuando. Chibitano gave to
+his army, formed of different elements, and to his conquered peoples,
+made up of a variety of origins, the name of Cololos, hence the word
+Macololos, so well known throughout Africa. This powerful warrior and
+legislator held his conquered tribes as brethren in one common interest
+till his death, when they began to set up independent empires. In this
+disintegration the Luinas, under King Lobossi, came to the front, and
+are yet the most powerful of the Macololos. Pinto says that the Macololo
+empire is now composed of a mongrel crew&mdash;Calabares, Luinas, Ganguellas,
+and Macalacas&mdash;all given to drunkenness and moral brutishness. They are
+polygamous and deep in the slave traffic. Their country&mdash;200 miles long
+and over 50 wide&mdash;is full of villages and fine plantations. The Luina
+herds<!--580.png--><span class="pagenum">571</span>
+cover the plains of the upper Zambesi, and no finer cattle are to
+be found in Africa. Lakes abound, and while they contribute to malarial
+diseases, they give a rich variety of fish. The men do not take readily
+to farming, but the women are wonderful milkmaids and vegetable raisers.
+As a people, they are skillful iron-workers and wood-carvers, and expert
+at pottery work. They cultivate tobacco for snuff, but smoke only
+<i>bangue</i>. They dress fuller and better than most Central African people,
+and some of their garbs are quite fantastic.</p>
+
+<p>Prof. Henry Drummond, of Glasgow, in a lecture on “The Heart of Africa,”
+gives a vivid description of the perils which beset missionary life in
+the Zambesi regions:</p>
+
+<p>As his boat swept along the beautiful lake Nyassa, he noticed in the
+distance a few white objects on the shore. On closer inspection, they
+were found to be wattle and daub houses, built in English style and
+whitewashed. Heading his boat for the shore, he landed and began to
+examine what seemed to be the home of a little English colony. The first
+house he entered gave evidence of recent occupancy, everything being
+in excellent order; but no human form was to be seen or human voice to
+be heard. The stillness of death reigned. He entered the school-house.
+The benches and desks were there, as if school had been but recently
+dismissed; but neither teachers nor scholars were to be seen. In the
+blacksmith shop the anvil and hammer stood ready for service, and
+it seemed as if the fire had just gone out upon the hearth; but no
+blacksmith could be found. Pushing his investigations a little further,
+he came upon four or five graves. These little mounds told the whole
+story and explained the desolation he had seen. Within them reposed the
+precious dust of some of the missionaries of Livingstonia, who one by
+one had fallen at their post, victims of the terrible African fever.
+Livingstonia was Scotland’s answer in part to the challenge which Henry
+M. Stanley gave to the Christian world to send missionaries to eastern
+equatorial Africa. When that intrepid explorer, after untold hardship,
+had found David Livingstone, and during months of close companionship
+had felt the power of that consecrated life, he blew the trumpet with no
+uncertain sound to rouse the church to her privilege and responsibility
+in central Africa. But it was
+not<!--581.png--><span class="pagenum">572</span>
+till the death of the great missionary
+explorer, that the land which gave him birth resolved to send a little
+army of occupation to the region which he had opened to the Christian
+world. On the 18th of January, 1875, at a public meeting held in the city
+of Glasgow, the Free, the Reformed, and the United Presbyterian churches
+of Scotland founded a mission, to be called Livingstonia, and which was
+to be located in the region of Lake Nyassa, the most southern of the
+three great lakes of central Africa, with a coast of eight hundred miles.
+Although founded by the churches just named, it was understood that it
+was to be regarded as a Free Church mission, the others co-operating with
+men and means as opportunity offered or necessity required.</p>
+
+<p>The choice of location was most appropriate, not only because Dr.
+Livingstone had discovered that beautiful sheet of water, but because
+he had requested the Free Church to plant a mission on its shores. The
+first company of missionaries, which included also representatives of
+the Established Church, who were to found a separate mission in the
+lake region, after immense toil and severe hardship, reached the lake,
+<i>via</i> the Zambesi and Shir&eacute; rivers, October 12th, 1875. They selected
+a site near Cape Maclear as their first settlement, and as soon as
+possible put into operation the various parts of the mission work they
+had been commissioned to prosecute&mdash;industrial, educational, medical and
+evangelistic. From the first the mission met with encouraging success,
+becoming not only a center of gospel light to that benighted region,
+but also a city of refuge to which the wretched natives fled to escape
+the inhuman cruelties of the slave traders. As the years rolled on,
+however, it was found necessary to remove the main work of the mission
+to a more healthful region on the lake&mdash;hence the desolation seen by
+Prof. Drummond&mdash;the work at Cape Maclear being now mainly evangelistic
+and carried on by native converts. The mission still lives and comprises
+four stations, one of which is situated on the Stevenson Road, a road
+constructed at a cost of $20,000 by an English philanthropist, and
+intended to promote communication between Lakes Nyassa and Tanganyika.</p>
+
+<p>After this diversion, forced upon the reader by reason of Livingstone’s
+dual missionary and pioneering work, we turn again to
+the<!--582.png--><span class="pagenum">573</span>
+north of
+Africa, and to historic Egypt. Comparatively little has been done in this
+land by Christendom for the evangelization of its degraded population.
+Wesleyan missionaries were stationed at Alexandria in the early part of
+the century, but the field proved unpropitious and they were removed
+to a more promising sphere of labor. Even the Church of England, now
+most in favor there, has not achieved much in the way of Christianizing
+the people. Perhaps the American United Presbyterians have been most
+successful in this uninviting field. They have several missionaries
+there, numerous lay agents, over a score of stations and schools, and
+quite a following of converts and pupils. The Khedive has granted them
+toleration and valuable concessions. The Church of Scotland sustains one
+mission and several prosperous schools at Cairo, in Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>In Nubia, the Mohammedan religion is so firmly fixed, that missionary
+effort has been almost entirely discouraged.</p>
+
+<p>The Abyssinians boast of their relationship to King Solomon, resulting
+from the visit of the Queen of Sheba to Jerusalem. They also claim to
+have received their Christianity from its fountain head in Jud&aelig;a, on the
+return of the Ethiopian eunuch to the Court of Queen Candace, after his
+conversion to the faith of the Gospel by Philip, the Evangelist. Whatever
+truth there may be in these traditions, it is a fact that the religion
+of the country is a species of Christianity, combined with certain
+Judaic observances, as circumcision, abstinence from meat, keeping of
+Saturday as the Sabbath, and also with many Catholic forms, as reverence
+for the Virgin, the calendar of saints, etc. As a missionary field the
+Catholics were the first to enter Abyssinia in 1620, and they succeeded
+in persuading the king to declare Catholicism to be the religion of the
+State. This bold step, however, occasioned civil wars which ended in
+their expulsion from the country. Jesuit missionaries from France came
+later, but they were also banished.</p>
+
+<p>The Church of England Missionary Society in 1829 sent out two
+missionaries. Others followed, but little was accomplished. The well
+known German missionary, Herr Flad, has accomplished quite a work in
+recent times. The defeat and murder of the Abyssinian king was one of the
+sad events of 1888. It followed
+successful<!--583.png--><span class="pagenum">574</span>
+invasions of the country and
+the slaughter and enslavement of large numbers of Abyssinians in 1885 and
+1886 by the Mahdists, and their defeat by King John in 1887. Herr Flad
+transmitted a letter to the British and Foreign Anti-Slavery Society from
+Christian Abyssinians, which is a most earnest and pathetic appeal for
+help from their fellow Christians and such help as will prevent their
+enslavement and the entire desolation of their country. Very pertinently
+these people, whose liberties and lives are in such imminent danger,
+inquire of Christians in other lands, after depicting the desolation of
+their own, the selling of thousands of people into slavery, and the cruel
+butchery of other thousands, “Why should fanatic and brutal Moslems be
+allowed to turn a Christian land like Abyssinia into a desert, and to
+extirpate Christianity from Ethiopia?” They close with this earnest plea:
+“For Christ’s sake make known our sad lot to our brethren and sisters in
+Christian lands, who fear God and love the brethren.” While Abyssinian
+Christianity may not be without spot, Abyssinians are God’s men and women.</p>
+
+<p>Later missionary letters to the London Anti-Slavery Society say that
+the Mahdists have made Western Abyssinia a desert. Whole flocks and
+herds have been destroyed, thousands of Christians have been thrown into
+slavery, thousands of others have been butchered, and hundreds of the
+noblest inhabitants have been taken to Mecca as slaves in violation of
+treaties.</p>
+
+<p>The English gunboat Osprey recently captured three cargoes of slaves off
+the island of Perim, which guards the Aden entrance to the Red Sea. When
+brought to the Admiralty Court at Aden they proved to be about 217 in
+number, chiefly Abyssinian boys and girls from 10 to 20 years of age,
+captured by the fierce Mohammedan Gallas, and run across to Mocha to be
+sold to the Mohammedans. The Foreign Missionary Committee in Scotland
+appeal for a special Rescued Slaves’ Fund for the support and Bible
+education of these captives.</p>
+
+<p>In Barca, Tripoli, Fezzan, Tunis, Algiers, and Morocco, known as the
+Barbary States, owing to the exclusive character of the Moslem faith, all
+missionary effort for the evangelization of the general population has
+been precluded until recently. A note
+from<!--584.png--><span class="pagenum">575</span>
+Edward H. Slenny, secretary
+of the North Africa Mission, says Jan. 26, 1889: “I have just returned
+from visiting most of the missionaries connected within the North Africa
+Mission in Morocco, Algeria and Tunis. The prospect among the Mohammedans
+is encouraging and we are hoping to send out more laborers. There are
+now forty-one on our staff, and two more leave us in a week. We are now
+proposing to take up work among the Europeans as well as the Mohammedans,
+and also establish a station in Tripoli, which is quite without the
+Gospel.”</p>
+
+<p>Algeria was occupied in some measure in 1881, Morocco in 1884, Tunis in
+1885 and in 1889. Mr. Michell, who has been working in Tunis, accompanied
+by Mr. Harding, who left England February 1, landed in Tripoli the 27th.
+Thus far they are getting on well. They find the people more bigoted
+than in Tunis. Besides the work they may be able to do in the city and
+neighborhood, they will be able to send some Scriptures by the caravans
+leaving for the Soudan which, with the blessing of God, will spread the
+light around Lake Tchad.</p>
+
+<p>A correspondent of <i>The Christian</i>, (London) writing from Gibraltar,
+says: “We have had very cheering news from Morocco. A wonderful work
+has sprung up among the Spanish and Jewish people of Tangier. Meetings,
+commenced two or three months ago, have been held in Spanish, addressed
+through an interpreter by some brethren of the North African Mission, and
+there has been an intense eagerness to hear the truth. The Holy Spirit
+has carried home the Gospel message with conviction to many hearts,
+and a few days ago the brethren informed me that seventeen Jewish and
+Spanish converts were baptized, and others were waiting for baptism.
+The meetings have been crowded night after night, so much so that the
+friends in Tangier contemplate hiring a music-hall, at present used for
+midnight revelry and sin. This revival has aroused the enmity of both
+rabbi and priest, consequently bitter persecution has followed. Several
+Jewish inquirers have been beaten in the synagogue, converts have been
+dismissed from their employment, and the priests have offered bribes and
+made threats to the Spanish converts to induce them to cease attending
+the meetings, but so far the converts are holding firm.”</p>
+
+<p><!--585.png--><span class="pagenum">576</span></p>
+
+<p>E. F. Baldwin is meeting with great success in Morocco. He writes from
+Tangier:</p>
+
+<p>“We have had great encouragement in the work here. For some two months
+we have had nightly meetings for inquirers and young converts, attended
+by from ten to twenty. Many have received Christ as their personal
+Saviour and have been at once baptized. For some weeks most of my time
+was occupied from morning until night talking with interested ones who
+visited me, and daily there would be natives in my room much of the
+time. At times conversions occurred daily. All of them are brought out
+of Mohammedan darkness. They all renounce that false religion formally
+at their baptism. Almost all are young men, some of good position, but
+most of them from among the poor. There is not one who has not prayed and
+spoken in our meetings from the day of his conversion.</p>
+
+<p>“Two of the earliest converts are in the mountains traveling on foot
+without purse, scrip or pay, preaching in both Arabic and Shillah. They
+have been away now several weeks. Others, whose faces we have never seen,
+have been converted in distant places through one from here, and write us
+of many others believing through their word. We have reason to believe
+the Gospel has taken root in several places in Southern Morocco within
+these few weeks. Two others of our number are arranging to start at once
+to preach in another direction. Mr. Martain and I are also leaving as
+soon as we can get away, and will travel also as Christ commanded, on
+foot and without purse or scrip.”</p>
+
+<p>Later he writes from Mogador: “For upwards of a year new accessions
+have been constant, and every one baptized has renounced Mohammedanism.
+For a time the work was seemingly much hindered by severe persecution,
+imprisonment, beating, disowning, banishment&mdash;these are all too familiar
+to the converts here in Southern Morocco. But when it was impossible to
+work longer here in Mogador we travelled and preached, going literally
+on the methods laid down in Matthew <span class="smcapac">X</span>, which we hold with,
+we find, increasing numbers of God’s children, to be of perpetual
+obligation. We have found them to contain the deep and matchless wisdom
+of God for missionary effort. Several others besides myself,
+including<!--586.png--><span class="pagenum">577</span>
+recently converted natives, are so travelling. The natives knowing no
+other methods, have gone gladly forth, without purse or scrip, on foot,
+taking nothing, and marvellous blessing in the way of conversion has
+followed the step of their simple faith. They go with no thought of pay
+or salary. The Father makes their simple needs His care. My own position
+as an unattached missionary, dependent only on God for temporal supplies
+(which, blessed be His name, He ceaselessly supplies), enables one to
+consistently instruct these native Christians in the principles and
+methods of Mathew x, and encourage them to go forth upon them.</p>
+
+<p>“It is to this return to these first principles of mission work I
+attribute the constant flow of blessing we are having, and which is so
+exceptional in Mohammedan fields. I earnestly recommend them to others
+who may have the faith and are so circumstanced as to practice them. I
+say this without any reflection upon the more ordinary and accepted lines
+of mission endeavor. The field is vast and the need great, and by all and
+every means let the Gospel be preached.</p>
+
+<p>“Just now the vigilance of our persecutors and adversaries has
+somewhat relaxed, and our frequent meetings (sixteen in Arabic and
+eight in English per week,) are well attended and we are cheered by
+more conversions. Several are just presenting themselves for baptism.
+Last night one of the most intelligent and best educated Moors I have
+ever met, publicly confessed Christ for the first time&mdash;both speaking
+and praying (as all the native Christians do from the hour of their
+conversion) in our meeting before many witnesses. He is one of the few
+‘honorable’ ones who have been won. We trust he may become a veritable
+Paul. He was some months since arrested and thrown into prison on the
+suspicion of being a Christian, which at that time he was not. His feet,
+like Joseph’s, ‘they hurt with fetters,’ the scars of which he will
+never cease to carry. Poor fellow! He was then without the comfort that
+comes to a child of God in affliction, and yet enduring reproach for
+Christ. But God blessed his dreary sojourn in prison to his soul, and it
+contributed to his conversion.</p>
+
+<p>“Some from among the few resident Europeans and from
+among<!--587.png--><span class="pagenum">578</span>
+the Jews also
+have turned to the Lord and confessed Him in baptism.</p>
+
+<p>“Tidings from different places in the interior, where the word of life
+has been carried from here, tell us of many turning from Mohammed’s cold,
+hard, false faith, to the love and light the Gospel brings them. May not
+all this encourage the zeal and faith of scattered workers toiling in
+these hard Moslem fields?</p>
+
+<p>“Some new workers, all committed to Mathew <span class="smcapac">X</span> lives, have just
+joined us. There are now six of us here, all men of course, with our
+lives given up to toil for Christ under his primitive instructions. A
+band is forming in Ayrshire, Scotland, of others who will come to us
+soon, we trust. Others in different places are greatly interested. We
+hope to have many natives together here in the summer months for training
+in the Word, that they may afterwards go forth two by two, without purse
+or scrip.”</p>
+
+<p>Alfred S. Lamb writes as follows:</p>
+
+<p>“Within four days’ journey of Britain one may land on African soil and
+find a large field&mdash;almost untouched&mdash;for Christian labor among the
+natives of Algeria, the Kabyles. Visiting recently among these people,
+and making known to them, for the first time, the glad tidings of
+salvation, I was much struck with the attention given to the message.
+Doubtless the novelty of an Englishman speaking to them in their own
+unwritten language, and delivering such a message as a free salvation
+without works, was sufficient of itself to call forth such attention.
+Seated one evening in a Kabyle house, I was greatly delighted with
+the readiness to listen to the Gospel. The wonderful story of the
+resurrection of Lazarus was being read, when my host announced that
+supper was ready, and when I liked I could have it brought up. Having
+expressed a desire to finish the narrative, the little company of
+Mohammedans continued to give the utmost attention to the words read and
+spoken. Supper ended, the conversation was renewed. One of our company,
+an honorable Marabout or religious Mohammedan, who, because of having
+made a pilgrimage to Mecca, was called Elhadj, entertained us while he
+read from an Arabian tract. The man showed us, with evident pride, a book
+in Arabic (I presume a portion of Scripture,) given him two years ago in
+Algiers<!--588.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_579" id="Page_579">579</a></span>
+by a Christian English lady who was distributing tracts among
+the people. Frequently during that evening’s conversation, my statements
+were met by the words, ‘You are right,’ ‘Truly.’ That night I had two
+sharing the sleeping apartment with me. Having seen me bow the knee in
+prayer, one of them asked me afterward if I had been praying. Replying
+that I had, he added, ‘May God answer your prayer!’”</p>
+
+<p>The north of Africa, so long neglected by the missionaries, seems now to
+share in the interest that has been awakened in the whole continent.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 346px;">
+<img src="images/i_579.png" width="346" height="277"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">WEST AFRICAN MUSSULMAN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We come now to the west coast. Western Africa is divided into numerous
+petty States, in all of which the most degrading superstition and
+idolatry, with their usual concomitants of lawlessness and cruelty,
+are the outstanding features. The entire population was no doubt pagan
+at no very remote period; but in modern times the religion of Mohammed
+has extensively prevailed, having been jealously propagated with fire
+and sword by northern tribes of Arab descent. But there is not so much
+difference between the Mohammedanism and paganism of the negroes as
+many suppose. The distinction is rather nominal than real, so far as
+the moral conduct of the people is concerned. All profess to believe in
+the existence of God, if a confused notion of a higher power may be so
+designated; but all are entirely ignorant of the character and claims of
+the Divine Being, and exceedingly superstitious. The African Mussulman
+repeats the prayers, and observes the feasts and ceremonies prescribed in
+the Koran, but he has quite as much, if not more faith, in his charms and
+amulets, or greegrees.</p>
+
+<p><!--589.png--><span class="pagenum">580</span></p>
+
+<p>Paganism in West Africa is known by the name of “fetishism.” It assumes
+different forms in the various tribes. It is to a large extent a system
+of devil worship, in connection with which the belief in witchcraft
+plays an important part. Not only are the deities themselves called
+“fetishes,” but the religious performances of acts of worship, and the
+offerings presented are also spoken of as “fetish,” or sacred, because
+they are performed and offered in honor of those deities. In the daily
+household worship, in every domestic and public emergency, in seasons of
+public calamity, when preparing for and engaged in war, in the taking
+of oaths, at births and deaths and funerals, and, indeed in connection
+with every event in life, the “fetish” superstition holds the people in
+the most slavish, degrading, and cruel bondage. When a death occurs a
+solemn assembly is held in a palaver house to inquire into its cause;
+and as witchcraft is the one often assigned it results in death to some
+unfortunate individual suspected of the crime.</p>
+
+<p>To be suspected of witchcraft is the worst thing that can overtake a
+man or woman in Africa, and at every death it is the priests’ business
+to make out who has been the cause of the death. On such occasions
+a brother, sister, father, nay, in many cases even a mother, may be
+accused of the unnatural crime of having occasioned the death of their
+dearest. Against such a charge there exists no defense. Free room has
+been left to the priesthood for the execution of its malicious plottings
+and selfish designs, as they mostly are. It is hard to say which men
+dread the most, the effects of witchcraft or being themselves accused of
+practicing it. People avoid with the utmost carefulness and solicitude
+every look, every word, every act, which is in the slightest measure open
+to misinterpretation. If any one is seriously ill, care is taken not to
+be too cheerful, lest it should appear as if one was rejoicing over the
+expected decease. But, again, one does not dare to seem too solicitous,
+lest it should be surmised that he is concealing his guilt under a mantle
+of hypocrisy. And yet, with all these precautions, one is never secure.
+If such a suspicion has once been uttered against any one, neither age,
+nor rank, nor even known nobility of character defends him from the
+necessity of submitting to the ordeal of poison, the issue of which is
+held infallible.</p>
+
+<p><!--590.png--><span class="pagenum">581</span></p>
+
+<p>The people through belief in this doctrine, are the victims of the
+priests and priestesses&mdash;the “fetish” men and women&mdash;who constitute a
+large class. The most incredible atrocities resulting from this belief
+form one of the darkest chapters in the history of this dark land.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the superstitious rites and ceremonies of the negro race partake
+more of the nature of open idolatry than any of those which have yet
+been mentioned. For instance, they pay homage to certain lakes, rivers
+and mountains, which they regard as sacred, believing them to be the
+special dwelling places of the gods. They also adore various animals
+and reptiles, which they believe to be animated by the spirits of their
+departed ancestors. In some places large serpents are kept and fed, in
+houses set apart for the purpose, by the “fetish” priests. To these ugly
+creatures sacrifices are presented and divine homage is paid by the
+people at stated periods&mdash;a liberal present being always brought for the
+officiating priest on all such occasions.</p>
+
+<p>The ruling people of the Niger delta, at Bross, New Calabar, Bonny and
+Opobo, are the Ijos. Every community of them had formerly its “totem,”
+or sacred animal, in whose species the ancestral Spirit of the tribe was
+supposed to dwell. So profound was this belief that the English traders
+in the Oil River region&mdash;the Oil Rivers embrace the tributaries of the
+Niger, and are so called in general because the commerce in palm-oil
+is large upon them&mdash;were forbidden to kill the sacred lizard of Bonny,
+and the more sacred python of Bross. One agent of a large trading firm
+at Bross found a python in his house and inconsiderately killed it. On
+learning of it, the Bross natives destroyed the firm’s factory and store,
+dragged the agent to the beach and inflicted indignities on him. The
+British consul considered the case, but such was the sentiment against
+the sacrilegious conduct of the agent, that the consul, as a matter of
+trade polity, was forced to decide that redress was impossible, in as
+much as he had brought the punishment on himself.</p>
+
+<p>This “totem” worship made the monster lizard at Bonny a nuisance. They
+grew in number and impudence, till it was nothing unusual to see their
+six feet of slimy length stretched across paths and upon doorways, and to
+feel the lash of their serrated
+tails<!--591.png--><span class="pagenum">582</span>
+on your legs as you passed along.
+If one were wounded or killed, there was no end of trouble, for the irate
+natives were sure to carry the case to the consul on board ship, where
+they secured the judgment of a fine, or else taking the law into their
+own hands, they insulted, or assaulted the slayer till their anger was
+appeased.</p>
+
+<p>In other parts of the delta, a shark became the tribe “totem,” or
+a crocodile, or water-bird, but in no part was Zo&ouml;latry&mdash;animal
+worship&mdash;carried to a greater extent than at Bonny and Bross, where
+the lizard and python were favorites. In 1884, the Church Missionary
+Society took the matter in hand, and finally succeeded in doing what
+consuls and the war-ships had failed to accomplish. The society screwed
+the courage of the native converts up to the sticking point and finally
+proclaimed the destruction of the lizards in Bonny on one Easter Sunday
+morning. Men and boys, armed with hatchets and sticks went about killing
+the ugly beasts, and so complete was their work that the day ended with
+their extermination. But the sickening smell which pervaded the air for
+days, came near producing a pestilence. It was a hard blow to native
+superstitions, but the riddance soon came to be acquiesced in. A change
+equally abrupt put an end to the python worship at Bross, and so there
+has been of late years, a gradual giving up of this “totem” observance
+among the Niger tribes, thanks to missionary rather than commercial
+enterprise.</p>
+
+<p>Here, surely, if anywhere on the face of the earth, the Gospel, with its
+enlightening, purifying, and ennobling influence, was needed. What then
+has been done to carry it to these degraded people, and what have been
+the results of missionary labor among them? Take a glance first at Sierra
+Leone, as it was the earliest visited by the missionaries. It is situated
+in the southern part of Senegambia. It has an area of 319 square miles,
+and a population of over 80,000, nearly all blacks. Formerly it was one
+of the chief emporiums of the slave trade. In 1797 the British African
+Company purchased land from the native princes with the view of forming
+a settlement for the emancipated negroes who had served in British ships
+during the American Revolution, and who on the conclusion of peace were
+found in London in a most miserable condition. In 1808 this land was
+transferred to the British Crown, additional tracts of
+country<!--592.png--><span class="pagenum">583</span>
+being
+subsequently acquired. The colony has since served as an asylum for the
+wretched victims rescued from the holds of slave ships.</p>
+
+<p>The history of missionary enterprise, in this land of sickness and death,
+is a chequered one. Colonial chaplains were appointed at different
+times, from the beginning, to minister to the government functionaries
+and others; but owing to frequent deaths and absences from illness,
+the office was often vacant. The first effort of a purely missionary
+character for the benefit of West Africa was made by the Baptist
+Missionary Society in 1795. Efforts of other societies followed in rapid
+succession; but it was not until after the commencement of the present
+century, when the Church and Wesleyan Missionary Societies undertook the
+work of evangelization in Western Africa, that the cause took a permanent
+and progressive form.</p>
+
+<p>The Church Missionary Society in 1804 sent out to Sierra Leone Mr.
+Renner, a German, and Mr. Hartwig, a Prussian, to instruct the people in
+a knowledge of Divine things. In 1806 Messrs. Nylander, Butscher, and
+Prasse&mdash;all of whom had been trained at the Berlin Missionary Seminary,
+and ordained according to the rites of the Lutheran church&mdash;embarked at
+Liverpool to strengthen the mission. In 1816 Wm. A. B. Johnson went out
+as a schoolmaster to this colony. “He was a plain German laborer, having
+but a very limited common-school education and no marked intellectual
+qualifications, but he was trained in the school of Christ and was
+a good man, full of faith and of the Holy Spirit. It became obvious
+that he was called of God to preach the Gospel, and he was ordained in
+Africa. His period of service was brief, but marvelous in interest and
+power, and he raised up a native church of great value. Into the midst
+of these indolent, vicious, violent savages he went. He found them devil
+worshipers, and at first was very much disheartened. But though William
+Johnson distrusted himself, he had faith in Christ and his Gospel. Like
+Paul, he resolved to preach the simple Gospel, holding up the cross,
+show them plainly what the Bible says of the guilt of sin, the need of
+holiness, and the awful account of the Judgment Day. He simply preached
+the Gospel and left results with God, confident that his Word would not
+return
+to<!--593.png--><span class="pagenum">584</span>
+him void. For nearly a year he pursued this course. And he
+observed that over that apparently hopeless community a rapid and radical
+change was coming. Old and young began to show deep anxiety for their
+spiritual state and yearning for newness of life. If he went for a walk
+in the woods, he stumbled over little groups of awakened men and women
+and children, who had sought there a place to pour out their hearts to
+God in prayer; if he went abroad on moonlight evenings, he found the
+hills round about the settlement echoing with the praises of those who
+found salvation in Christ, and were singing hymns of deliverance. His
+record of the simple experiences of these converts has preserved their
+own crude, broken, but pathetically expressive story of the Lord’s
+dealings with them, and the very words in which they told of the work
+of grace within them. No reader could but be impressed with their deep
+sense of sin, their appreciation of grace, their distrust of themselves
+and their faith in God, their humble resolves, their tenderness of
+conscience, their love for the unsaved about them, and their insight into
+the vital truth of redemption.”</p>
+
+<p>The improvement in the appearance and habits and social condition of the
+people that followed was nothing short of a transformation. Their chapel
+was five times enlarged to accommodate the ever increasing numbers who
+attended. “Seventy years ago, if you had gone to what was afterward known
+as the Regent’s Town, you would have found people, taken at different
+times from the holds of slave-ships, in the extreme of poverty and
+misery, destitution and degradation. They were as naked and as wild as
+beasts. They represented twenty-two hostile nations or tribes, strangers
+to each other’s language, and having no medium of communication, save
+a little broken English. They had no conception of a pure home, they
+were crowded together in the rudest and filthiest huts, and, in place
+of marriage, lived in a promiscuous intercourse that was worse than
+concubinage. Lazy, bestial, strangers to God, they had not only defaced
+his image, but well-nigh effaced even the image of humanity, and combined
+all the worst conditions of the most brutal, savage life, plundering and
+destroying one another. Here it pleased God to make a test of his grace
+in its uplifting and redeeming power.”</p>
+
+<p><!--594.png--><span class="pagenum">585</span></p>
+
+<p>When Johnson was under the necessity of leaving for England, hundreds of
+both sexes accompanied him a distance of five miles to the ship and wept
+bitter tears at the thought of being separated from their best earthly
+friend. “Massa, suppose no water live here, we go with you all the way,
+till no feet more move.”</p>
+
+<p>Similar success attended the work at other stations, so that we find
+Sir Charles M’Arthy, the governor, reporting in 1821 as follows in
+regard to the villages of these recaptured negroes: “They had all the
+appearance and regularity of the neatest village in England, with a
+church, a school, and a commodious residence for the missionaries and
+teachers, though in 1817 they had not been more than thought of.” In 1842
+a committee of the House of Commons thus testified to the state of the
+colony. “To the invaluable exertions of the Church Missionary Society
+more especially&mdash;as also, to a considerable, as in all our African
+settlement, to the Wesleyan body&mdash;the highest praise is due. By their
+efforts nearly one-fifth of the whole population&mdash;a most unusually high
+proportion in any country&mdash;are at school; and the effects are visible in
+considerable intellectual, moral and religious improvement.”</p>
+
+<p>The bishopric of Sierra Leone was founded in 1851, and some idea may be
+formed of the trying nature of the climate from the fact that no fewer
+than three bishops died within three years of their consecration. In
+1862 the Native Church having been organized on an independent basis,
+undertook the support of its own pastors, churches, and schools, aided by
+a small grant from the society.</p>
+
+<p>In a work entitled “The English Church in Other Lands,” it is stated
+that “in the first twenty years of the existence of the mission, 53
+missionaries, men and women, died at their post;” but these losses seemed
+to draw out new zeal, and neither then, nor at any subsequent period, has
+there been much difficulty in filling up the ranks of the Sierra Leone
+Mission, or of the others established on the same coast. The first three
+bishops&mdash;Vidal, Weeks and Bowen&mdash;died within eight years of the creation
+of the See, and yet there has been no difficulty in keeping up the
+succession.</p>
+
+<p>The present results are a sufficient reward for all the self-sacrificing
+devotion. There is now at Sierra Leone a self-sustaining
+and<!--595.png--><span class="pagenum">586</span>
+self-extending African church. The only white clergyman in the colony
+is Bishop Ingram; the whole of the pastoral work being in the hands of
+native clergymen. Many native missionaries, both clerical and lay, have
+been furnished for the Niger and Yoruba missions.</p>
+
+<p>An outline of the proceedings of the Wesleyan Missionary Society in this
+part of the wide field may be compressed into a few sentences. Among
+the negroes who were conveyed from Nova Scotia to Sierra Leone in 1791,
+there were several who had become partially enlightened and otherwise
+benefited by attending services of the Methodist ministers in America.
+Some of these having made repeated applications to Dr. Coke for preachers
+of their own denomination to be sent from England, in the year 1811 the
+society responded to their request by the appointment of the Rev. G.
+Warren as their first missionary to Western Africa. He was accompanied
+by three English schoolmasters. They found about a hundred of the Nova
+Scotia settlers who called themselves “Methodists.” These simple minded
+people had built a rude chapel in which they were in the habit of meeting
+together to worship God from Sabbath to Sabbath, a few of the most
+intelligent among them conducting the services and instructing the rest
+according to the best of their ability. They received the missionary
+from England with the liveliest demonstrations of gratitude and joy;
+and to them, as well as to the poor afflicted liberated Africans, who
+were from time to time rescued from bondage by British cruisers and
+brought to Sierra Leone, his earnest ministrations were greatly blessed.
+But the missionary career of Mr. Warren was of short duration. He was
+smitten with fever and finished his course about eight months after his
+arrival&mdash;being the first of a large number of Wesleyan missionaries
+who have fallen a sacrifice to the climate of Western Africa since the
+commencement of the work. Other devoted missionaries followed who counted
+not their lives dear unto them if they could only be made instrumental
+in winning souls for Christ. No sooner did the intelligence arrive in
+England that missionaries and their wives had fallen in the holy strife,
+than others nobly volunteered their services, and went forth in the
+spirit of self-sacrifice&mdash;in many instances to share the same fate. This
+has been going on for
+three<!--596.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_587" id="Page_587">587</a></span>
+quarters of a century; and although the
+mortality among the agents of the society is appalling to contemplate,
+the social, moral, and spiritual results of the mission are grand
+beyond description. Congregations have been gathered, places of worship
+erected, native churches organized, and Christian schools established,
+not only in Free Town, but in most of the villages and towns in the
+colony. High schools have, moreover, been established for the training
+of native teachers and preachers, and to give a superior education to
+both males and females. The advancement of the people, most of whom have
+been rescued from slavery, in religious knowledge, general intelligence,
+moral conduct, and, indeed, in everything which goes to constitute
+genuine Christian civilization, is literally astonishing. In addition to
+the Church and Wesleyan Missionary Societies, who took the lead in the
+work of religious instruction in Sierra Leone, other agencies have been
+advantageously employed. The census of 1881 showed 39,000 evangelical
+Christians, about equally divided between the Wesleyans and the Church of
+England. Some reports give the nominal Christian population as high as
+80,000.</p>
+
+<p>In the Gambia district the inhabitants on both sides of the river are
+chiefly Mandingoes and Jalloffs, most of whom are Mohammedans, with a few
+pagans here and there. A large number of “liberated Africans,” as they
+are technically called, have, however, been brought to the Gambia from
+time to time, and located on St. Mary’s and McCarthy’s islands and in
+the neighboring districts, as thousands before had been taken to Sierra
+Leone. These are poor negro slaves of different nations and tribes who
+have been rescued from bondage, and landed from slave ships taken by
+British cruisers while in the act of pursuing their unlawful trade.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 517px;">
+<img src="images/i_588.jpg" width="517" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AN AFRICAN CHIEF.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>No provision had been made for the moral and religious instruction of the
+colonists (British,) or the native tribes of this part of Africa, when
+the Wesleyan Missionary Society commenced its labors in 1821. The first
+missionary sent out was the Rev. John Morgan. He was soon afterwards
+joined by the Rev. John Baker from Sierra Leone, when these two devoted
+servants of God began to look about for the most eligible site for a
+mission station. Their object being chiefly to benefit the surrounding
+native tribes, they were anxious if possible to establish themselves on
+the
+mainland.<!--597.png--><span class="pagenum">588</span>
+Accordingly they went to visit the chief of Combo, on
+the southern bank of the Gambia. Having offered their presents, they
+were graciously received by his sable majesty, who signified his consent
+for the strangers to settle in any part of the country which they might
+select as most suitable for their object. They fixed upon a place called
+Mandanaree, about eight miles from St. Mary’s. Although considerably
+elevated it was far from healthy; and when the rainy season set in both
+were prostrated with fever, and were obliged to move to St. Mary’s
+where they could have medical aid. Before the end of the year, however,
+Mr. Baker proceeded to the West Indies by direction of the Missionary
+Committee, his
+health<!--598.png--><span class="pagenum">589</span>
+having become so impaired by his long residence in
+West Africa, as to render a change absolutely necessary.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Morgan had recovered from his attack of fever and was pursuing his
+work alone, when he had the pleasure of receiving as his colleague
+the Rev. Wm. Bell, who had been sent from England by the committee to
+reinforce the mission. This devoted young missionary appeared well
+adapted for the enterprise upon which he had entered; but he was soon
+called away to the “better country.” He died of fever at St. Mary’s
+forty-six days after his arrival. For a time his place was taken by the
+Rev. Geo. Lane, from Sierra Leone, but his health also failing he was
+obliged to return, and he shortly afterwards finished his course. On the
+14th of April, 1824, Mr. Morgan was relieved by the arrival from England
+of the Rev. Robert and Mrs. Hawkins, who entered upon their work at once.</p>
+
+<p>By this time it had become evident that the proper place for the
+principal station was St. Mary’s island, and arrangements were forthwith
+made for the erection of a mission-house and place of worship in
+Bathurst, the principal town. A number of native converts were soon after
+united in church fellowship as the result of the faithful preaching of
+the Gospel; schools were organized for boys and girls, and the machinery
+of a promising mission station was fairly put in motion. Mr. and Mrs.
+Hawkins suffered much from sickness during their period of service,
+but they labored well and successfully, and were spared to return home
+in 1827, the Rev. Samuel and Mrs. Dawson being appointed to take their
+place. Mrs. Dawson was smitten with fever and died at Sierra Leone, on
+her way to the Gambia, and her sorrowful and bereaved husband proceeded
+to his station alone. On the 18th of November, 1828, Rev. Richard
+and Mrs. Marshall arrived at the Gambia from England to relieve Mr.
+Dawson; and the school being once more favored with the supervision of
+a Christian lady, and the station with an energetic missionary, the
+work prospered in a very pleasing manner. Mr. Marshall had labored with
+acceptance and success for nearly two years, when he fell a sacrifice to
+the climate, and finished his course with joy at Bathurst on the 19th
+of August, 1830. Two days after the funeral of her lamented husband,
+Mrs. Marshall embarked with her infant son for England. They arrived
+at
+Bristol<!--599.png--><span class="pagenum">590</span>
+on the first of October; and worn out with mental and
+bodily suffering, the lonely widow sank into the arms of death about
+forty-eight hours after she landed on the shores of her native country.
+Gambia Station was thus left without a missionary or teacher, but six
+months later, on the 10th of March, Rev. W. Moister and wife arrived at
+St. Mary’s and set to work at once to recommence the mission schools
+and public services. Their labors were crowned with success; and native
+preachers having been trained to take a part in the work, they felt that
+the time had come when some effort should be made to carry the Gospel
+to the regions beyond. With this object in view Mr. Moister made three
+successive journeys into the interior; and with much toil and exposure
+succeeded in establishing a new station at McCarthy’s Island, nearly 300
+miles up the Gambia,&mdash;a station which from that day to this, a period
+of over half a century, has been a centre of light and influence to all
+around, and the spiritual birthplace of many souls. Mr. Moister was
+relieved in 1833 by the arrival from England of a noble band of laborers.
+The Rev. Wm. and Mrs. Fox took charge of St. Mary’s and Rev. Thomas and
+Mrs. Dove were appointed to take charge of the new station at McCarthy’s
+Island. They labored long and successfully in this trying portion of the
+mission field, and some of them fell a sacrifice to the deadly climate.
+They were succeeded by others in subsequent years, many of whom shared
+the same fate; but whilst God buried His workmen, He carried on His work.
+A rich harvest has been already reaped, and the work is still going on. A
+commodious new chapel and schoolrooms have been built at Bathurst, and a
+high school established for the training of native teachers and others;
+whilst large congregations, attentive and devout, meet together for
+worship.</p>
+
+<p>“The Gold Coast” is the significant name given to a maritime country
+of Guinea, in Western Africa, in consequence of the quantity of gold
+dust brought down from the interior by the natives for barter with
+the European merchants. The Wesleyan Missionary Society commenced its
+labors on the “Gold Coast” in 1834. Their first station was at Cape
+Coast Town, and though the missionaries died in rapid succession, the
+station was never without a missionary for any considerable time. As
+the work advanced native
+laborers<!--601.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_592" id="Page_592">592</a></span>
+were raised up; and in succeeding
+years stations were established, places of worship built, congregations
+gathered, and Christian churches and schools organized, not only in Cape
+Coast Town, but also at Elmina, Commenda, Dix Cove, Appolonia, Anamabu,
+Domonasi, Accra, Winnibab, and other places along the coast and in the
+far distant interior. In 1889 they had 21,000 Christians.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_591.jpg" width="600" height="376"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PORT AND TOWN OF ELMINA.</span>
+<a href="images/i_591x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Basle and North German Missionary Societies have also several
+important stations on the “Gold Coast,” at Accra, Christianburg,
+Akropong, and other places. During the last century the attention of
+Count Zinzendorf was drawn toward the propagation of the Gospel on the
+“Gold Coast.” Three times (1736, 1768 and 1769) missionaries were sent
+to Christianburg and Ningo; but all died after a short stay, without
+seeing any fruit of their work. They are buried, eleven in number, at
+Christianburg and Ningo. Upwards of half a century elapsed ere this
+“white man’s grave” was taken possession of again. At length in 1827,
+the Basle German Evangelical Mission sent out four missionaries, J.
+P. Henke, C. F. Salbach, J. G. Schmid, and G. Holzwarth. They arrived
+on the 18th of December, 1828, at Christianburg, then and until 1851
+a possession of the Danish Crown. From Governor Lind they received a
+cordial welcome. Within nine months after their arrival three of them
+succumbed to the climate, two of them dying on the same day. Two years
+later the fourth (Henke) was removed. Three new laborers arrived in
+March, 1832, but in the course of four months two of them had died.
+The third, A. R&uuml;s, having been raised up from the very gates of death,
+labored for several years, and afterwards removed to Akropong, the
+capital of Aquapim, a more healthful region in the interior. The
+Aquapims and their king proved very friendly. The reports from this new
+region had the effect of infusing fresh life into the society, and two
+missionaries, along with Miss Wolter, who became the wife of R&uuml;s and
+was the first missionary lady on the “Gold Coast,” were forthwith sent
+to his aid. Two years thereafter, R&uuml;s and his wife were left alone, the
+remorseless climate having again done its deadly work. The mission had
+now been in existence for ten years, and within that period no fewer
+than eight missionaries had died. R&uuml;s returned in broken health to Basle
+in 1840. The directors of
+the<!--602.png--><span class="pagenum">593</span>
+society were greatly perplexed, as well
+they might be. The prevailing feeling was in favor of the abandonment of
+the mission, but a new inspector, the Rev. W. Hoffman, came into office.
+Fired with missionary zeal he proceeded in 1843 to Jamaica in order to
+enlist Christian emigrants for the work in Africa. Twenty-four members of
+the Moravian congregation there responded. They arrived in Christianburg
+in April of that year. Henceforth Akropong became as a city set on a
+hill. R&uuml;s returned to Africa but was compelled to retire altogether from
+the field in 1845, his health having again completely broken down. But
+reinforcements were sent out by the society from time to time.</p>
+
+<p>The mission now assumed a more encouraging aspect. Between 1838 and 1848
+only one missionary had died, and by the close of the latter year forty
+natives had been gathered into the church. Ten years later the society
+was able to report that no fewer than eighteen missionaries, with nine
+married and three unmarried ladies, besides twenty-six catechists and
+teachers, had been settled at the stations already named and at various
+other places. The church members at the close of 1858 were 385. The
+next decade showed still more gratifying results, the numbers being
+31 missionaries, 19 ladies, 25 native catechists, 15 native male, and
+12 native female teachers, and 1581 church members. Out-stations were
+largely multiplied.</p>
+
+<p>During this last period the work was developed in other directions. The
+Mission Trade Society had begun operations, its object being to prepare
+the way by means of trade based on Christian principles. Elders had
+been appointed to assist the missionaries in their work, and to settle
+minor cases of jurisdiction. Besides the day schools, boarding schools
+for boys and girls, a teachers’ training school, and a theological
+school had been established. Industrial departments too had been added
+at Christianburg. These are now self-supporting and are proving an
+important means of promoting the moral and social well-being of the
+natives. In these industrial schools may now be seen native shoe-makers,
+tailors, carpenters, and other craftsmen, busy at work plying their
+respective avocations, and preparing themselves for useful positions in
+life. Some of the missionaries have, moreover, rendered good service
+to
+literature,<!--603.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_594" id="Page_594">594</a></span>
+and to those who may succeed them in the field, by
+the useful dictionaries, grammars, and vocabularies which they have
+compiled of native languages, and the translations which they have made
+of Scripture into the dialects of the people among whom they labor. The
+entire Bible has been translated into two of the various languages&mdash;viz,
+in the G&acirc; or Akra, by the late Rev. J. Zimmerman; and in the Tshi by
+the Rev. Christaller&mdash;the latter language being spoken by at least a
+million of negroes on the “Gold Coast,” and far into the interior.
+During the Ashanti war in 1874 Captain Glover bore the following
+emphatic testimony to the piety and general good conduct of the native
+converts who joined the British army from some of the stations mentioned
+above: “Two companies of Christians, one of Akropong, and the other
+of Christianburg, numbering about a hundred each, under two captains,
+accompanied by Bible-readers of the Basle Mission, attended a morning
+and evening service daily, a bell ringing them regularly to prayers.
+In action with the enemy at Adiume, on Christmas day, they were in the
+advance, and behaved admirably, since which they have garrisoned Blappah.
+Their conduct has been orderly and soldier-like, and they have proved
+themselves the <i>only</i> reliable men of the large native force lately
+assembled on the Volta.”</p>
+
+<p>In 1875 they sent out for the Ashanti Mission a staff of six men for two
+new stations&mdash;Mr. and Mrs. Ramseyer among them. One of these stations,
+Begorro, is not in the Ashanti territory, but is a frontier town, and a
+connecting link between their former “Gold Coast” Mission and Ashanti
+proper. It is the healthiest of all the African stations of the society.
+The other station, Abetifi, is the capital of Okwao, a former province of
+Ashanti, which gained its independence after the victory of the British
+army over the Ashantis. The chief of the capital, Abetiffi, told the
+missionaries to settle wherever they liked.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_595.jpg" width="600" height="376"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">COOMASSIE THE CAPITAL OF ASHANTI.</span>
+<a href="images/i_595x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>Early in 1881 two of the missionaries, accompanied by several native
+preachers and the necessary bearers, undertook a journey to Coomassie,
+the capital, in order to ascertain the disposition of the people and
+the prospect of establishing a mission among them. During their stay
+they preached regularly morning and evening, with the king’s permission,
+to large audiences. But the king
+did<!--605.png--><span class="pagenum">596</span>
+not desire a mission established
+there, and they deferred attempting to commence missionary operations in
+Coomassie.</p>
+
+<p>One beneficial result of the war with Ashanti has been the abolition of
+domestic slavery in the “Gold Coast” colony.</p>
+
+<p>The work of the society (Basle) generally on the west coast of Africa
+has been very gratifying. In 1882 under the care of the 34 European
+missionaries and upwards of a hundred other agents, there were some 4,000
+natives, from whose minds the darkness of night has been dispelled,
+besides about 1,500 pupils under instruction who may be expected to do
+good work in the future. Many of the churches on the “Gold Coast” have
+attained to a position of self-support.</p>
+
+<p>One single fact may be mentioned, as indicating the influence of the
+mission here. The king of Cape Coast in early life was the means of
+getting it established. He forsook the “fetish” of his country. In
+consequence he was cut off from the succession to the chieftainship, and
+publicly flogged. But after thirty years’ profession of Christianity, he
+was elected chief or king, and, on the occasion of the anniversary in
+1864, he publicly acknowledged his obligations to the mission.</p>
+
+<p>Lagos, a considerable island in the Bight of Benim, was in former times
+one of the most notorious slave depots on the western coast of Africa.
+It is situated at the mouth of a river, or rather, a large lagoon,
+which runs parallel with the sea for several miles, and affords water
+communication with the interior in the direction of Badagry, Dahomi,
+Abeokuta, and other parts of the Yoruba country. It is now a British
+settlement, with its resident lieutenant governor and staff of officers.</p>
+
+<p>The population of Lagos and the neighboring native towns, both in the
+Yoruba and Popo countries, is of a similar character to that which is
+found on other parts of the coast. Perhaps it became somewhat more mixed
+several years ago, by the emigration from Sierra Leone of a large number
+of “liberated Africans,” who ventured thus to return to the countries
+from which they had been dragged as poor slaves, when they heard that
+the slave trade was abolished. Some of these emigrants had the happiness
+to find parents, brothers, sisters or other relatives and friends still
+living,<!--606.png--><span class="pagenum">597</span>
+who received them as alive from the dead; whilst others sought
+in vain for any one who could recognize them. There were many touching
+and affecting meetings, and great was the surprise of the natives of
+Lagos, Abeokuta, and other places in Yoruba and Popo countries, to see
+the change which had passed upon their friends and relatives by the
+residence of a few years in a free British colony. They all appeared
+decently clothed in European apparel, many of them had learned to read
+and write in the mission schools, and a few of them had become the happy
+partakers of the great salvation, which they had heard proclaimed in all
+its simplicity and power in the land of their exile.</p>
+
+<p>It was the extensive emigration of civilized “liberated Africans” from
+Sierra Leone to Lagos and the neighboring towns in the Yoruba country,
+that led to the vigorous efforts of the Church and Wesleyan Missionary
+Societies to evangelize the natives of this part of Africa. The Christian
+emigrants who had been connected with these organizations in Sierra
+Leone, on reaching their destination reported to their respective
+ministers the state in which they found the country and earnestly
+requested that their friends and countrymen might be favored with the
+proclamation of the Gospel which had made them so happy. These appeals
+were cheerfully responded to by the parties concerned, and a work was
+commenced which for prosperity and blessing has had few parallels in the
+history of missions.</p>
+
+<p>The Church Missionary Society was happy in the selection of the Rev.
+Samuel Crowther, an educated and ordained native minister, as the leader
+of the enterprise. The history of Mr. Crowther is equal in interest to
+any romance that was ever written. Torn away from his native land and
+sold as a slave when a mere boy in 1821, he was rescued from a Portugese
+slaver by a British cruiser and brought to Sierra Leone, where he was
+educated in the mission school, and being specially bright was sent to
+England. He completed his education in Islington Training Institution and
+was ordained by the Bishop of London. He returned to Sierra Leone and was
+afterwards in 1846 appointed as a missionary to Abeokuta, to labor among
+the Sierra Leone emigrants and others. It was here, to his inexpressible
+delight, he met his mother, twenty-five
+years<!--607.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_598" id="Page_598">598</a></span>
+after he had been
+snatched from her by the slave dealers; and in 1848 he had the further
+unspeakable joy of seeing her admitted, along with four others, into the
+membership of the Christian church. They were the first fruits of the
+mission. In 1864 he was consecrated at Canterbury Cathedral, Bishop of
+the Niger territory and superintendent of all the stations in the Yoruba
+and adjoining countries. Making the island of Lagos his headquarters,
+Bishop Crowther, assisted by a noble band of native missionaries, has
+succeeded in establishing stations, erecting churches and organizing
+Christian schools, not only in Lagos and Abeokuta, where the work was
+first commenced, but also in various towns and villages in Yoruba and
+Popo countries, and in several centres of population on the banks of the
+Niger. The principal stations on the Niger are Bonny and Bross at the
+mouth of the river, and Onitsha, Lokoja, New Calabar, and Egan, higher
+up. The last named is 350 miles from the mouth of the river. In 1877 a
+steamer named the Henry Venn was supplied to the mission, thus doing away
+with the hard labor and slow navigation by means of the old fashioned
+canoe in vogue on the river. An exploratory voyage made up the Binue in
+1879 revealed the existence of numerous tribes ready to receive teachers.</p>
+
+<p>At Bross and Bonny there has lately been a remarkable movement in the
+direction of Christianity, hundreds of people throwing away their idols
+and attending the church services, which are thronged every Sabbath.
+The famous Juju temple, studded with human skulls, is going to ruin. A
+village opposite Bonny has been named “The Land of Israel” because there
+is not an idol to be found in it. At an important market town thirty
+miles in the interior, the chiefs and people, influenced by what they
+had seen at Bonny, and without ever having been visited by a Christian
+teacher, spontaneously built a church with a galvanized iron roof, and
+benches to seat 300 worshipers, got a school-boy from Bross to read the
+church services on Sundays, and then sent to ask the Bishop to give them
+a missionary.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_599.jpg" width="600" height="365"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">CANOE TRAVEL ON THE NIGER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Rev. W. Allan writing from Bonny in 1889 says: “The worship of the iguana
+is overthrown, the priest is a regular attendant at the house of God, and
+the iguana itself converted into an article
+of<!--609.png--><span class="pagenum">600</span>
+food. The Juju temple,
+which a few years ago was decorated with 20,000 skulls of murdered
+victims, I found rotting away in ruin and decay. I passed through the
+grove which was formerly the receptacle of so many murdered infants, and
+I found it had become the regular highway from the town to the church,
+and that the priest was now a baptized Christian. At 11 o’clock I went
+ashore and addressed 885 worshipers, including the king, the three former
+heathen priests, chiefs, and a multitude of slaves, and was thankful
+to ascertain that the work of conversion was still going on; for, in
+addition to 648 persons already baptized, of whom 265 are communicants,
+there are over 700 at Bonny alone who are now under instruction.”</p>
+
+<p>Bishop Crowther has now about 10,000 Christians under his care. He lately
+opened at Bonny a new church built of iron, with sittings for 1,000.</p>
+
+<p>The agents of the Wesleyan Missionary Society have been as zealous and
+successful, in a somewhat more limited sphere, as those of the Church of
+England, with whom they have generally lived and labored in harmony and
+love. Among the emigrants from Sierra Leone there were many Wesleyans who
+preferred their own ministers, whilst the domain of heathendom, on every
+hand, was sufficiently extensive to occupy the agents of both societies.
+At an early period a commodious Wesleyan Mission-house and chapel were
+erected at Lagos, where the work has progressed in a very satisfactory
+manner from the beginning. Many have been converted from time to time and
+united in church fellowship, some of whom have gone out to make known
+the good news to their fellow-countrymen. To provide for the training
+of native preachers and teachers, as well as to give a better education
+to those who are in a position to need it, a Wesleyan high school has
+been erected and opened at Lagos, which promises to be a most useful
+institution. Common day-schools are also taught in connection with all
+the out-stations of the Lagos circuit, and the Gospel is preached to
+the people in two or three different languages. They have about 6,000
+adherents. The drink traffic is one of the great hindrances to missionary
+work in this section.</p>
+
+<p>Says Rev. W. Allan: “In Africa we have to contend
+against<!--610.png--><span class="pagenum">601</span>
+the devil’s
+missionary agency. The liquor traffic is increasing, and it is a
+gigantic evil&mdash;greater, even, than the slave trade&mdash;debasing the people
+and ruining legitimate commerce. In West Africa it has deepened the
+degradation of the negro instead of civilizing him. Over 180,000,000
+gallons of spirits had been imported last year in the district of Sierra
+Leone, and in Lagos it was far larger, while all the land was strewn with
+demijohns. The Niger Company imported 220,000 gallons during the last two
+years, and 500 cases of gin and 500,000 gallons of rum were landed by the
+Caliban, in which I sailed from Liverpool. The selling price of rum is
+less than a penny a gallon, and the gin sold at three-pence a bottle. The
+liquor so sold was of the most execrable character.”</p>
+
+<p>A lurid picture of the western part of this region has lately been
+presented by the English district commissioner. He says: “The population,
+which has been recruited for many years past by a constant influx of
+refugees from the surrounding tribes, falls roughly into three divisions.
+These are: the Popos, chiefly engaged in fishing, forestry, and farming,
+but averse to steady work of any sort, and much addicted to theft; the
+Yombas, the most enterprising people in the district; and the Houssas,
+who are farmers and palm-nut gatherers. The Mohammedans among them are
+more enterprising and industrious than the fetish worshipers; while the
+Christians, though few in number, form a fairly thriving community. But
+all are alike in ‘intense and obtuse conservatism, so long as they are
+left to their own devices, and in a keen spirit of petty trading.’ The
+sole article of their moral code is ‘to do to your neighbor as you hope
+to avoid being done to by him.’ It is useless to appeal to any higher
+motive, and it is certain that without European influence to urge them
+on commerce must decline. Fishing is carried on wholly in the lagoons,
+the people never having had the enterprise to build surf-boats, which
+would enable them to engage in sea-fishing. Some progress has been made
+in agriculture, owing to the efforts of the Roman Catholic Mission at
+Badagry, the administrative centre. In the Frah Kingdom, also, the
+local British officer has succeeded in inducing the people to plant a
+considerable area of fertile land with corn, so that villages which were
+almost starving two years ago on smoked fish are now supplying large
+quantities of grain to the
+local<!--611.png--><span class="pagenum">602</span>
+markets. But this increased prosperity
+has only increased the drunken habits of the people, who exchange for
+vile imported spirits the products of their labor. Katamu, the Frah
+capital, is rapidly falling into a ruinous state of disrepair. Every
+fourth or fifth house is a rum shop, and the so-called palm-wine sheds
+are filled every night with drunken men and women. The evils of the
+drink traffic are so apparent to the people themselves that they have
+petitioned the Governor to put an end to the sale of liquor altogether.
+If this were done the fertile flood lands of Frah might become a source
+of food supply for the whole colony. In spite of the valuable resources
+of the forests, nothing is done to develop them save the collection and
+treatment of the palm-nuts. Trading is the African’s special delight,
+but until quite recently the markets of Lagos were not in a prosperous
+condition. Now that a British firm has established a branch at Badagry,
+and made the place a market town, it is estimated that 5,000 persons
+with every variety of native produce assemble there every market day,
+and in eight months the monthly export has increased from &pound;30 to &pound;1,878.
+Cocoanut planting, road making, corn-growing, and the cessation of the
+drink traffic appear to be the official methods for civilizing the West
+African negro.”</p>
+
+<p>An extensive district on the western coast of Africa, between Sierra
+Leone and Cape Coast Castle received the name of Liberia, from the
+circumstance of its being colonized by liberated slaves and free persons
+of color from America. On the 22d of November, 1888, the secretary of the
+Manchester Geographical Society read an interesting paper contributed
+by the Hon. G. B. Gudgeon, consul-general for Liberia in London. The
+following is an extract: “It was stated that the famous negro republic
+of Liberia was founded by the American Colonization Society in 1822.
+The work of civilizing and Christianizing the inhabitants of that
+almost unknown country was entirely carried on for more than twenty
+years by this society. The missions established along the coast and at
+various points inland had developed into Liberia’s prosperous towns and
+settlements. It became an independent state in 1847. Nearly 2,000,000
+souls were subject to the rule of the Liberian Republic, consisting of
+about 40,000 freed slaves and their descendants, the remainder belonging
+to numerous aboriginal
+tribes.<!--612.png--><span class="pagenum">603</span>
+While the state possessed a seaboard of
+500 miles and an interior extending over 200 miles, she had acquired
+no territory except by treaty, purchase, exchange, or barter. Bishop
+Taylor had described the country as healthy and its climate salubrious
+and enjoyable, without a plague of flies and with few mosquitoes. Many
+travelers had confirmed the bishop’s testimony. The Republic of Liberia
+stood before the world as the realization of the dreams of the founders
+of the American Colonization Society, and in many respects more than
+the realization. Far beyond the recognized limits of the country,
+and hundreds of miles away from the coast, the effects of American
+civilization were to be witnessed. Men of color entirely governed the
+republic, and if any proof were wanting of the capacity of freedmen to
+govern, Liberia was an interesting illustration. The ability, learning,
+and skill of many of Liberia’s citizens were found in their code of laws,
+which for humanity, justice, and morality no other country could excel.
+The English tongue is spoken throughout the republic except among the
+native tribes not yet civilized; but among these too it is making good
+progress.”</p>
+
+<p>Rev. S. L. Johnson, who recently visited Liberia, says: “The scenery
+along the coast of Liberia, from Cape Mount to the Gulf of Guinea, a
+distance of about 600 miles, is exceedingly grand. A few miles from the
+coast the country rises to hills, with gigantic trees, presenting a
+panorama that can only be described by a skilful artist.</p>
+
+<p>“Monrovia is the capital of the republic. It rests on a beautiful
+hill overlooking the sea, surrounded by trees. There are many fine
+buildings in the city, which are creditable to the Monrovian people. The
+president’s house is built of brick, as are also many of the buildings;
+others are built of stone. The wharves face the sea, where there are
+colored firms doing business with England, Germany, and America.</p>
+
+<p>“Mr. Sherman does a large business with England and America. After my
+return to England I wrote to Mr. Sherman for information regarding the
+articles of trade. This is the answer:&mdash;‘The articles of trade are
+palm-oil, palm kernels, coffee, ivory, camwood, ginger, and rubber. Many
+of our merchants do a business of
+$100,000<!--613.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_604" id="Page_604">604</a></span>
+to $150,000 a year. A vessel
+left here for New York on the 7th inst., with a cargo of $50,000 worth,
+collected within two months. In this cargo were 118,000 pounds of coffee.’</p>
+
+<p>“The soil of Liberia is extremely fertile, and produces all kinds of
+tropical fruits, sugar-cane, indigo, Indian corn, rice, cotton, cocoa,
+peanuts, and coffee, the latter the finest in the world. Vegetables
+are cultivated with great success. There are to be found the finest
+dye-woods, ebony, gum plant, and the gigantic palm-trees, which produce
+the palm-oil. On my way to England from Africa 1,500 casks were shipt on
+the same steamer to Liverpool, a good share of it being from the coast of
+Liberia. Goats, swine, sheep, cattle, and fowls, all thrive in Liberia.</p>
+
+<p>“This republic has a glorious work to accomplish in the future. It will
+undoubtedly be in time, the most prosperous state on the west coast of
+Africa. With the civil, social, and religious advantages she enjoys, she
+must succeed. The annexation of the kingdom of Medina, with five hundred
+thousand inhabitants, and her wide and fertile domain, extending over two
+hundred miles into the interior, will no doubt inspire renewed energy in
+giving fuller opportunities for the advancement of the Gospel, as well as
+an open door for civilization and commerce.</p>
+
+<p>“Much zeal and perseverance have been displayed throughout the republic.
+Fine churches, school buildings, and a college are to be seen in Monrovia.</p>
+
+<p>“At Nifou, on the coast of Liberia, I counted forty-nine canoes, with
+two or three men in each, going out fishing. At twenty-five minutes to
+ten we stopt at Grand Cess, Liberia. Here fifteen canoes came out, with
+from three to twenty men in each. These belong to the Kru tribe, the
+aborigines of a part of Liberia. They are a fine-looking people, and very
+industrious. But for this class of people I do not know what the European
+traders of the African steamship companies would do. All the steamers
+reaching Sierra Leone and the coast of Liberia take on board a gang of
+‘Kru-men’ to do the work of the ship. One hundred and thirty men were
+taken on board our steamer to go down the coast to work. Many of them
+speak broken English well.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_605.png" width="600" height="359"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">LIBERIA.</span>
+<a href="images/i_605x.png" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>As might be expected, this territory, extending upwards
+of<!--615.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_606" id="Page_606">606</a></span>
+300 miles
+along the coast to Cape Palmas, has been occupied by the American
+churches&mdash;viz. the Baptist, Methodist Episcopal, Protestant Episcopal,
+and Presbyterian Church (north). Much zeal and perseverance have been
+displayed in connection with all these agencies, and the result is seen
+in the parsonages, and places of worship, colleges and school buildings
+which have been erected in most of the towns and villages in the
+settlements, and in the improved morals of the people.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 531px;">
+<img src="images/i_606.jpg" width="531" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">METHODIST PARSONAGE OF AFRICA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>For some years past the Missionary Society of the Methodist Episcopal
+Church has been gradually reducing the appropriations for the carrying
+on of the missions from $37,000 to $2,500&mdash;a procedure that has been
+regarded by the conference in Liberia as inconsistent with the general
+spirit of the church and the growing interest felt of late years in the
+evangelization of Africa, and which for a time threatened to result
+in a severance of the ecclesiastical relations subsisting between the
+conference and the society. The action of the latter has been dictated
+solely by an earnest desire to secure in the native churches “the
+development of a spirit of self-reliance and independence&mdash;elements
+indispensable to a self-perpetuating church in any land.” The General
+Conference of 1888 changed the name and boundaries of the “Liberian
+Conference” to the “African Annual Conference” embracing the entire
+continent of Africa. In the other missions in Liberia there seems also a
+disposition to rely on foreign aid.</p>
+
+<p><!--616.png--><span class="pagenum">607</span></p>
+
+<p>Fernando Po is one of the most important islands on the western coast
+of Africa, and enjoys many advantages from its peculiar position. It
+is situated in the Gulf of Guinea, about seventy miles from the coast
+of Benim. It is thirty miles long and twenty broad; and in its general
+aspect it is rugged and mountainous in the extreme, though there are some
+fertile valleys between the mountains, and several promising tracts of
+land along the shore.</p>
+
+<p>Among the settlers and aborigines of Fernando Po some really useful
+missionary work has been done at different times, which deserves a
+passing notice. The first in the field were the agents of the Baptist
+Missionary Society. They labored for several years among the settlers of
+all classes with very good results, whilst the English had possession
+of the island; but when it was given over to the Spaniards, Roman
+Catholicism was proclaimed to be the established religion of the
+settlement, and the harshness and persecution with which the Baptist
+missionaries were treated by the government authorities ended in their
+removal to the continent. In 1870&mdash;some improvement having taken place
+in the Spanish government&mdash;the Primitive Methodists were induced to
+commence a mission in Fernando Po, the Rev. Messrs. Burnett and Roe
+being the first missionaries sent out. They and their successors labored
+for several years very successfully. In 1879, in consequence of some
+misunderstanding, the missionaries were again banished from the island.
+An appeal was at once made to the home authorities, and in the course of
+a few months they were allowed to return.</p>
+
+<p>This question of conflict between Protestant and Catholic mission work in
+Africa has, at certain times and in certain places, been serious, and is
+greatly to be regretted, for it destroys the efficacy of both Churches,
+and proves a stumbling block to the natives. Pinto speaks of it with
+amazement, in his trip across the continent. He found places where the
+natives had been utterly demoralized by the spirit of contention indulged
+by the two Churches, and where their final answer to his advice to live
+at peace and deal justly with one another was, that white people might
+talk that way, but their actions proved that they did not mean what they
+said.</p>
+
+<p>In former times&mdash;notably in the Spanish, French and Portuguese
+provinces of Africa&mdash;the Catholic mission was a part of the
+political<!--617.png--><span class="pagenum">608</span>
+establishment, and it was expected to use its influence to extend and
+perpetuate the power which protected it. This was equivalent to warning
+off all competitors as intruders. Happily this condition is undergoing
+rapid modification.</p>
+
+<p>Similarly, the Protestant mission of other countries was treated as part
+of the commercial establishment, under the protection of the consul, and
+of the trading company, to whom the territory was allotted. Its business
+was therefore, in part, to cultivate the trading spirit and make its
+success contribute to the wealth of the parent country. This notion, too,
+is undergoing modification.</p>
+
+<p>All of which is directly in the line of that Christian enterprise so much
+needed for the conversion of the African heathen.</p>
+
+<p>On the mainland opposite Fernando Po, and on into the interior, good work
+has been done. We will speak first of the Old Calabar Mission.</p>
+
+<p>Old Calabar, on an affluent of the Cross river, is a recognized centre
+of the trade of the Oil river sections. It has a population of 15,000
+natives and 150 white. An insight into the characteristics of the natives
+beyond Old Calabar can best be gotten from the journey of Mr. Johnson
+up the Cross river in 1888. His object in making an ascent of the
+river was to treat with the natives and at the same time settle an old
+quarrel between the Union people and the tribes about Calabar. Stopping,
+merely to observe that the Kruboys, of whom Mr. Johnson speaks, are the
+Krumen&mdash;Kroomen&mdash;of the Liberian coast, among whom Bishop Taylor has, in
+his four years of African labors, established more than twenty missions,
+we let the adventurer tell his own story. He says: “Having decided to
+ascend the Cross river and having no steam launch at my disposal, I was
+obliged to make the journey in native canoes, of which I hired three,
+and fitted the largest with a small house in the centre for my lodging.
+I took with me about thirty Kruboys. These invaluable native workers
+come from the Liberian coast. Without their aid European enterprise on
+the west coast of Africa would be at a standstill; for, invariably,
+the negroes who are indigenous will not undertake any persistent work.
+The Kruboy is a strong, good tempered, faithful creature; able to row,
+paddle, carry, dig, wash clothes, or turn his hand to anything&mdash;in fact,
+he<!--618.png--><span class="pagenum">609</span>
+is a great deal sharper and more industrious than the average English
+navvy. My first object in going up the Cross river was to settle an
+outstanding quarrel between the people of a district called Umon and the
+natives of Old Calabar. Union is at a distance of about a hundred miles
+from the sea. The people speak a language quite distinct from the Calabar
+language. They were, till lately, terribly priest-ridden. Their life
+was a burden to them, with its load of cruel superstitious practices.
+The last few years, however, since they have come into contact with the
+missionaries, the state of affairs has greatly improved. As I appeared in
+the light of a mediator, I was most warmly welcomed. An imposing fleet
+of eighty large Calabar canoes reached Umon soon after I arrived, and
+formed a really pretty sight, as they were all painted in brilliant, but
+tasteful combinations of color, their little houses hung with bright
+carpets or leopard skins, each canoe being decorated with gaudy banners.
+The crews were most fantastically dressed in gorgeous clothes. The
+beating of drums, blowing of horns, and the firing of guns made a clamor
+most disturbing to my comfort, which I promptly stopped. I need hardly
+say that I had the Calabar people all under my control, for there was not
+only a personal attachment between us, but they knew that I was working
+in their interest, and the Umon people were much impressed by the way
+in which my shabby little despatch canoe, with two of my Kruboys in it,
+could marshal the imposing Calabar fleet.</p>
+
+<p>“As both sides were longing to have their quarrel at an end, and were
+fully prepared to accept my decision, the conference was a brief one. I
+decided that it was six of one and half a dozen of the other. I made the
+Calabar people surrender the Umon captives, and the Umon surrender their
+Calabar prisoners. Peace was reestablished, trade was resumed, and I was
+free to continue my journey.</p>
+
+<p>“We next visited the important Akuna-Kuna country, very populous, and
+inhabited by friendly, industrious people, whose chiefs very promptly
+and willingly concluded a treaty with the British Government, and
+loaded me with such an abundance of provisions&mdash;bullocks, goats, sheep,
+fowls, ducks, yams, and Indian
+corn&mdash;that<!--620.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_611" id="Page_611">611</a></span>
+our progress was seriously
+impeded, our canoes nearly capsized, and my Krumen suffered severely from
+indigestion.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_610.jpg" width="600" height="384"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AFRICAN VILLAGE AND PALAVER TREE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>“Some distance up the river we had rather a ticklish task to perform.
+Another quarrel, and that a bitter one, had to be settled between the
+people of Akuna-Kuna and the inhabitants of Iko-Morut. Here I was
+awkwardly situated. Had I been enabled to travel in a steam-launch, I
+could have gone safely up the river, or in any direction where there was
+sufficient water; but traveling simply in native canoes, the inhabitants
+of these wild countries in the interior, who look on every stranger as
+an enemy, had no idea that a white man was visiting them, and often
+proceeded to attack us before I could make myself seen.</p>
+
+<p>“As soon as we came in sight of the stockaded villages of Iko-Morut,
+many excited chocolate-colored natives could be seen hurrying along the
+banks of the stream and posting themselves in ambush behind the trees.
+Then first one gun, then two, three, four guns went off; then there was a
+regular hail of slugs and stones, whipping up the surface of the water,
+and, in one or two cases, whizzing over our canoes. In the face of this
+warm reception, it would have been impossible to proceed, for, at any
+moment, a shot might strike our canoes and send them to the bottom. As
+to returning the fire of these poor, stupid savages, nothing was further
+from my thoughts. It was always open to me to retreat, and, unless I
+could proceed peacefully and with a friendly reputation preceding me, it
+was futile to continue my ascent of the Cross river. So I had the canoes
+steered to an unoccupied sand-bank in the center of the stream, and as
+soon as the natives saw that we stopt, they ceased firing. Then I got
+into my small despatch canoe, with two interpreters, hoisted my white
+umbrella, and assuming my smile, quietly landed on the crowded beach, to
+the silent amazement of the natives, who were armed to the teeth. I was
+conducted to the chief, who, for a long time, could not be prevailed on
+to see me, on account of my presumed powers to bewitch him; but a little
+friendly conversation through the red screen of his apartment, and the
+hint that I had brought a pretty present, reassured him, and we soon made
+excellent friends.</p>
+
+<p>“To make a long story short; the result of my stay at
+Iko-Morut<!--621.png--><span class="pagenum">612</span>
+was
+equally satisfactory to that of Umon. I made peace between Akuna-Kuna and
+Iko-Morut, and the chiefs of the latter place concluded a treaty with me.</p>
+
+<p>“Then on, beyond Iko-Morut, day after day, we paddled up the beautiful
+stream, sometimes received by the natives in a gush of friendliness,
+sometimes sullenly avoided, sometimes boisterously attacked. At length,
+in the heart of the cannibal country, on the outskirts of Atam, where
+the Cross river attains its furthest reach to the north, our journey
+came forcibly to an end. I had several times been captured and released,
+several times fired at and then hugged by those who had attacked me, but
+the strain was becoming too great for the nerves of my Kruboys.</p>
+
+<p>“As we approached one village, a shot, better directed than usual, went
+through the roof of my little ark, and though no doubt our ultimate
+reception at the village would have been the same as at the preceding
+ones&mdash;first sullen hostility, then timid inquiry, and lastly a cordial
+hand-shaking and hugging, and the giving of presents&mdash;still, before
+this happy consummation should come about, some of us might have
+been accidentally killed, or our canoes&mdash;our only means of regaining
+civilization&mdash;sunk or disabled; consequently I decided to turn back. Then
+ensued an awful afternoon, when for miles and miles we had to run the
+gauntlet past populous villages of cannibals, whom we had much difficulty
+in avoiding on our ascent of the river; and who, taking our retreat for a
+flight, seemed bent on capturing us or plundering our canoes and eating
+the wretched Kruboys, who turned blue with fright at the prospect of
+being eaten, as they desperately paddled down the river past shrieking
+natives, who waded out into the shallows, or pursued us in canoes. Every
+now and again we would stick on a sand bank, and the shouts of the
+natives would come nearer and nearer; then we would get off again, and
+paddle for our lives; then stick again, and so on, till at last we were
+out of this savage district. I hesitate to say hostile, for, wherever I
+landed, or was captured, I was always well treated as soon as they found
+out what I was like and what my objects were in visiting their country.
+At length we arrived in the delightful district of Apiapum, where we put
+up for a week at the clean and comfortable town of Ofurekpe, whose chief
+and
+people<!--622.png--><span class="pagenum">613</span>
+were some of the nicest, kindliest, most friendly folk I have
+ever seen in Africa, though they were in their practical way cannibals,
+like their neighbors&mdash;that is to say, they were given to eating the flesh
+of all whom they might catch in war. I did not here observe that other
+kind of cannibalism which I have occasionally met on the Upper Cross
+river, which is of a sentimental character, namely, where the old people
+of that tribe, when they become toothless and useless, are knocked on the
+head, smoke-dried, pounded into paste, and re-absorbed into the bosom of
+the family.”</p>
+
+<p>The Old Calabar Mission originated with the Jamaica Presbytery of what
+is now the United Presbyterian Church of Scotland. The first band
+of missionaries, led by Mr. Hope Waddell, a member of the Jamaica
+Presbytery, reached their field of labor on the Old Calabar river on
+April 10th, 1846. They were cordially welcomed by King Eyamba and the
+chiefs of Duke Town, as also by King Eyo of Creek Town and his chiefs.
+Suitable sites for mission stations were readily granted. Mr. Waddell
+held a service with Eyamba and his chiefs the first Sunday after his
+arrival, and presented the former with a Bible.</p>
+
+<p>Mission houses and schools were in due time erected at both stations, a
+printing press being also usefully employed in scattering the seeds of
+Divine truth. At Creek Town the first sermon was preached in the court
+yard of King Eyo’s palace, the king himself acting as interpreter.</p>
+
+<p>The mission was reinforced in July, 1847, by the arrival of additional
+missionaries from Jamaica.</p>
+
+<p>In May previous King Eyamba died. It was the occasion of one of those
+scenes of cruelty, too common in heathen lands.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the efforts of the missionaries, no fewer than a hundred
+victims were sacrificed, among whom were thirty of the king’s wives.
+Here is the account given of the burial: “The people dug a large hole in
+one of King Eyamba’s yards, and having decked him in his gayest apparel,
+with the crown on his head, placed him between two sofas, and laid him in
+the grave. They killed his personal attendants, umbrella carrier, snuff
+box bearer, etc., (these the king was supposed to need in the world of
+spirits), by cutting off their heads, and with their insignia of office
+threw<!--623.png--><span class="pagenum">614</span>
+them in above the body; and after depositing a quantity of chop
+and of coppers, they cover all carefully up, that no trace of a grave
+could be seen. Over this spot a quantity of food is daily placed.”</p>
+
+<p>In February, 1850, an Egbo law was passed abolishing the inhuman practice
+of sacrificing human beings when a king or chief died. It is spoken of
+as “A good day for Calabar”&mdash;“One memorable in the annals of the land.”
+About the same time the marriage ceremony was introduced&mdash;King Eyo having
+witnessed the first regular marriage.</p>
+
+<p>On the suggestion of Mr. Waddell, their domestic idol, which consisted
+of a stick surmounted by a human skull and adorned with feathers, was
+expelled from every house.</p>
+
+<p>The death of King Eyo in December, 1858, put the Egbo law to the
+test. Much excitement prevailed. Fears were entertained that the old
+superstition would triumph. Happily no such dreaded result followed.
+Other heathen practices were one by one abandoned through the influence
+of the mission.</p>
+
+<p>The mission extended its sphere of operations from time to time&mdash;Ikunetu,
+situated on the Great Cross river, about twenty miles above Creek Town,
+being occupied in 1856, and Ikorofiong, also on the Cross river, about
+twenty miles above Ikunetu, in 1858. The Presbytery of Old Calabar was
+established September 1st, 1858, under the designation of the Presbytery
+of Biafra.</p>
+
+<p>In 1878 Mr. Thomas Campbell, the European evangelist at Old Town,
+accompanied by a number of natives, explored in two directions&mdash;first in
+Oban, up the Qua river, and then beyond Nyango, on the Calabar river.
+Everywhere he was well received by the chiefs and people. On September
+6th, 1880, there was an agreement entered into between D. Hopkins, Esq.,
+British consul, and the kings and chiefs of Calabar, in accordance with
+which a number of superstitious and cruel customs are held as criminal
+and punishable by law. These include the murder of twin children, human
+sacrifices, the killing of people accused of witchcraft, the giving of
+the esere or poison bean, the stripping of helpless women in the public
+streets, etc., etc.</p>
+
+<p>In the <i>Missionary Record</i>, June, 1881, appears the following
+intelligence: “The mission which seemed so long fruitless, is
+now<!--624.png--><span class="pagenum">615</span>
+one of
+the most fruitful in the whole earth. The increasing number and activity
+of the communicants, the increasing number of students in training
+as teachers and evangelists, and the manifestations of a Christian
+liberality not yet reached at home, tell of the changes which the Gospel
+has wrought. We ploughed in hope: we sowed in tears: and now already we
+reap in joy. The most recent tidings are the most heart-stirring. A new
+tribe, which had long resisted our approach, has been visited. They had
+never seen among them a white man till they looked on the face of the
+devoted Samuel Edgerly. They invite teachers to settle among them. They
+offer us suitable sites. The country is far beyond the swamps; it is high
+and healthy. This favorable entrance was greatly aided by the wise and
+good King Eyo, who sent a prince to accompany Mr. Edgerly beyond Umon to
+Akuna Kuna. When the expedition returned and the king heard the result,
+he gave utterance to one of the noblest of sentiments. ‘God,’ said he,
+when Mr. Edgerly had told his tale, ‘<i>has unlatched the door, and wishes
+us to push it open</i>.’”</p>
+
+<p>Such results as have been achieved at the Old Calabar Mission are worth
+all the money and toil and sacrifice of health and even of life which
+they have cost.</p>
+
+<p>The mission to the Cameroons was established in 1845 by the Baptist
+Missionary Society. When the missionaries of that society were expelled
+from the neighboring island of Fernando Po, where they had been laboring
+since 1841, they settled among the Isubus at Bimbia, where a mission had
+previously been projected. The mission was afterwards extended to King
+Bell’s Town in an easterly direction, the people inhabiting that region
+being the Dualas. The entire New Testament has been translated into the
+languages of both tribes.</p>
+
+<p>The Gaboon Mission was called into existence by the American Board in
+1842. Baraka was the first station occupied. It was transferred in 1870
+to the Mission Board of the American Presbyterian Church (north.) The
+Mpongwes on the coast, and the Shekanis, Bakalais, and Pangwes in the
+interior, are the tribes embraced in the field of operation. Not much
+progress has been made owing to the opposition of the Roman Catholics.
+In all
+the<!--625.png--><span class="pagenum">616</span>
+French possessions on the west coast of Africa the Roman
+Catholics predominate and very little has been accomplished. Recently
+the Paris Evangelical Missionary Society has been doing a good work at
+Senegal and other settlements.</p>
+
+<p>We come now to Angola. Angola was discovered by European mariners long
+before Christopher Columbus had given to the world another continent, yet
+many years passed before the value of the discovery was recognized and
+the country taken possession of and occupied by the Portuguese, at that
+period when Portugal was made remarkable by the commercial enterprise and
+maritime prowess of its people, more than three hundred years ago.</p>
+
+<p>For several years before the occupation of Angola, the king of Congo had
+been doing a large and lucrative trade with the Portuguese in slaves. The
+sources from which were drawn victims to keep alive this nefarious barter
+were never failing. The superstitions of the people, their customs and
+habits, a season of drouth, a failure of crops, in fact anything, even
+the least trivial happenings, were all factors giving Congo’s king excuse
+for the selling of his subjects to securing wealth; wealth represented by
+many wives, granaries filled to bursting with manioc, and wooded hills
+and fertile valleys stocked to overrunning with flocks of sheep and
+droves of lowing kine; wealth which enabled Congo to dominate and overawe
+all contemporary tribes, and which naturally incited the jealousy of
+other kings and chiefs who ruled over the natives of other districts in
+this country of Congoland.</p>
+
+<p>Among the savage rulers who were envious of the power of their rival,
+was Nmbea, king of Angola, autocrat of a large and densely populated
+country. Holding at his disposal millions of helpless and superstitious
+subjects, Nmbea soon recognized that by copying the practices of his
+powerful neighbor he, with but little difficulty, would also become chief
+and powerful. So, moved by this desire, he opened a correspondence with
+the Portuguese. He sent one of the rich men of his tribe, with presents
+of slaves, ivory and strangely wrought curios, as ambassadors to the
+Portuguese court at Lisbon, with instructions to endeavor to have the
+Portuguese establish trading relations between the two kingdoms.</p>
+
+<p>At this time the attention of the Portuguese queen and
+the<!--626.png--><span class="pagenum">617</span>
+people
+generally was attracted towards Brazil. Enterprising colonists,
+venturesome explorers and wealth seekers of all classes saw in this South
+American district a new Cathay. Thousands from among the patrician, as
+well as other thousands from more humble circles, rushed into that new
+land, necessarily causing large sums of money to follow in their wake.
+The enthusiasm with which this American opportunity was cultivated and
+the resultant drain from the royal treasury and from the coffers of the
+people caused Queen Catherine to receive with indifference all stories
+of African wealth. Thus obstacles were formed which prevented Nmbea from
+carrying out his plans until several years had passed, when the growing
+demands for slaves, needed to supply labor in Brazilian mines and on East
+Indian coffee farms, had become a matter of great importance. Then the
+request of Angola’s king was considered, and a party of Portuguese were
+landed at a place in his kingdom which they called St. Paul de Loanda.</p>
+
+<p>In the selection of this place these adventurers were most fortunate,
+for it was not long before trade, in ever-increasing volume, flowed
+towards the sea coast at this point. The growth of the city was rapid
+and, despite wars with native tribes and trouble with marauding Dutch,
+it grew wealthy and powerful. Large and beautiful cathedrals were built,
+imposing palaces were erected as were many important public buildings,
+and dotted here and there about the suburbs, were fruitful farms and
+valuable plantations. So with the moving years the city waxed strong and
+mighty, thriving on its traffic in human flesh. But a time came when this
+trade was shaken to its base and the prosperity of its citizens brought
+to a temporary end.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of the civilized world began to look with disfavor upon
+the slave traffic, and were induced to attempt its suppression. This,
+for Loanda, was the writing on the wall, for it meant the placing of
+an embargo upon the trade which was the only source from which the
+city derived revenue for its support. Philanthropy succeeded, and as a
+consequence Loanda’s glory faded. The palaces passed away, the stately
+cathedrals crumbled into ruins and the large and costly slave barracoons
+became useless except as fuel for the poor.</p>
+
+<p><!--627.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_618" id="Page_618">618</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_618.jpg" width="600" height="373"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ST. PAUL DE LOANDA.</span>
+<a href="images/i_618x.jpg" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--628.png--><span class="pagenum">619</span></p>
+
+<p>Then for years death-like quiet reigned in the city, and all signs of
+commerce ceased. But this stagnation was not to last forever. England and
+other commercial nations of Europe, in their efforts to find markets for
+the sale of the products of their mills and workshops, had established
+depots for trade at almost every important place in the world. The eyes
+of European merchants were turned towards the prolific field of southwest
+Africa.</p>
+
+<p>Stories which told how great wealth was to be gained in African trade
+began to be chronicled in the exchanges of all the great commercial
+centres, and a wave of commercial endeavor was put in motion, which
+carried with it many richly freighted barks to again fill the harbor of
+the African city of St. Paul de Loanda. Since then Loanda has improved
+beyond all expectation, and now the vessels of four lines of steamers
+as well as many sailing craft are constantly in the harbor loading and
+discharging their cargoes. Many large public buildings have been built.
+Acres of flat and swampy shore have been reclaimed and are now utilized
+for docks and wharfs. Ruins of churches and monasteries have been cleared
+away and walks and squares have been laid out and planted. There are
+many shops supplied with all kinds of European goods. Pipes have been
+laid, through which flows into the city sweet water from the river Bengo,
+nine miles away, and when the railway, now in course of construction, is
+in operation to bring the products of the farms, plantations and rich
+forests of the interior to the city, Loanda will have become a fair
+specimen of a thriving tropical town.</p>
+
+<p>The city is situated on the shore of a large and beautiful bay and is
+divided into a lower and an upper town. The “Cidade Buixa,” or lower
+town, which is built on the flat shore which fringes the water of the
+bay, nestles at the base of a hill and straggles up its rising sides
+until it joins the “Cidade Alto.” The upper town stretches along the brow
+of the elevation and sweeps outward towards the ocean until it ends at
+a bold and rocky precipice where Fort St. Miguels, a frowning sentinel,
+watches over the safety of the port.</p>
+
+<p>The harbor is a bay where a thousand ships might at one time ride at
+anchor and find secure protection from the severest storm. A long, low
+and narrow neck of land, called Isle of Palms,
+leaves<!--630.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_621" id="Page_621">621</a></span>
+the mainland
+about twelve miles to the south and runs north until it reaches a point
+opposite the city, where it flattens out its surface of sunlit sands to
+give protection to the harbor of which it forms the southern boundary.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_620.jpg" width="600" height="363"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">FOREST SCENE IN ANGOLA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This spit of land is partly covered with groves of cocoa palms, among
+which the residents of the city have erected many small houses where
+they visit daily to enjoy surf bathing. On other parts of this sandy
+breakwater are numerous villages occupied by native fishermen, who make
+an easy living.</p>
+
+<p>Loanda contains a population of nearly 20,000 people, about one-third
+of whom are white. The houses, as a rule, are built of stone and roofed
+with tile, and are large and commodious. The houses all have spacious
+yards attached, in which are situated the stores, kitchens, wells and
+habitations of the slaves and servants. Arranged in this manner, and
+with wide and spacious streets, the city is very open and comparatively
+healthy. It covers a large expanse of ground. The principal business
+street contains a number of fine structures. On it are situated the
+buildings of the Banco da Ultra Marenho, the barracks of the military
+police, the custom-house and the offices of the foreign consuls. There
+are also three hotels, many stores and warerooms, several billiard rooms
+and caf&eacute;s. In the middle of the street rows of banyan trees have been
+planted, making a shady walk, where the natives gather to buy and sell.</p>
+
+<p>These open-air sales, called in Bunda talk “Quitanda” market, are
+well patronized. Four uprights, a few “Loandas” mats for a shed, a
+stone-bowled pipe and a wooden pillow, are all the furnishings needed
+to make comfortable the colored women merchants. On the ground and
+all around the booths are laid out pieces of cotton, cheap calico,
+brilliantly colored handkerchiefs, native-made baskets containing balls
+and reels of cotton, beads, needles, pins, etc., cheap crockery and
+cutlery, empty bottles and balls of different colored clay. Suspended
+from the uprights and resting against the trees are stacks of native
+tobacco, plaited into rolls or wound about sticks and sold by inches. The
+venders at these open sales are always women, and as a rule are clean
+and comely. They are shrewd sellers and close buyers, and in a few years
+become,
+from<!--631.png--><span class="pagenum">622</span>
+a native’s point of view, quite wealthy. When conducting
+the business of the day, they squat or lie down upon the sand and indulge
+in quip and joke, and gossip with one another and their customers.</p>
+
+<p>Covering a whole square in the center of the lower town is the general
+market. It is a large, square, uncovered enclosure made of terra cotta
+and brick, built in excellent taste. All the public buildings of Loanda
+are under the direct control of the military police and are well
+conducted.</p>
+
+<p>At break of day one hears the loud sound of many horns, trumpets and
+beating drums. Down through the flower scented streets, in soldierly
+order moving, with burnished guns and glistening bayonets, 100 blacks,
+all dressed in spotless white, come marching until they reach the
+market gates. Here good Father Anselmo, of the Ursulines, pours out a
+benediction upon the market and the awaiting people. When the gates are
+opened the police take their stations and the market is ready to receive
+the buyers and sellers of the day. Through the open portals into the
+market flows a stream of laughing, singing men and women. One carries
+upon her head a large basket, from whose open top protrudes the heads
+of cackling geese and scolding hens. Another has a pot of neichineas
+(water oil). Some bring meat and others vegetables. Millions of fleas
+and “jiggers” are always present, and in and out among the wares run
+countless naked and dirty children. The buyers and sellers shout aloud in
+boisterous tone.</p>
+
+<p>Besides this market there is another given up entirely to the sale of
+fish. In the haze of early morning, far out upon the ocean, hundreds of
+black spots are seen bobbing up and down upon the water. They are the
+canoes of the fishermen who are hastening towards the land with the fruit
+of their night’s labor. In a little time they reach the shore and their
+scaly cargoes are tumbled out upon the sands. The women and children at
+once proceed to clean the fish. In one spot they arrange the fish for
+drying, while others salt and pack them in barrels for shipment. Others,
+again, fry, boil and roast the fish and all are eating raw or half-cooked
+fish, interspersing everything with shouting, singing, dancing and grunts
+of satisfaction.</p>
+
+<p><!--632.png--><span class="pagenum">623</span></p>
+
+<p>During the period when the city’s prosperity was interrupted, its streets
+were left uncared for and their beautiful pavements became covered with
+a bed of loose red sand, which was washed by the rain down from the
+surrounding hills. This drifting still continues, rendering walking so
+very difficult that it is indulged in only by the convicts and natives.
+The better classes have resource to the “maxilla.” The “maxilla” is a
+flat frame of canework with one or two arms at the side and a low back
+provided with a cushion. This frame is hung by cords to a hook on a palm
+pole, about eighteen feet long, and is carried upon the shoulders of two
+blacks, who travel with it easily at the rate of three or four miles an
+hour. It is covered with an awning of oiled cloth and has silk curtains
+hung all around it.</p>
+
+<p>Loanda is a convict settlement, but, contrary to what might be expected,
+its people are remarkably law-abiding. This may arise from the fact that
+discovered law-breakers are punished most severely, often dying under the
+lash. The convicts, as a rule, are store-keepers and farmers. They are
+prosperous, and soon become contented with their lot and rarely return to
+Europe. Ignorant and unrefined, they assimilate readily with the native
+classes, and take part in all their pleasures.</p>
+
+<p>The “batuco,” country dance, is the popular form of amusement. A “batuco”
+is danced in the following fashion: A large ring is formed of men and
+women. On the outside several fires are kept burning, near which are
+assembled the musicians with horns, drums and the twanging “maremba.”
+Others clap their hands and sing a kind of chorus. Two dancers, a man
+and a woman, jump with a yell into the ring, shuffle their feet with
+great rapidity, passing backwards and forwards. Then facing one another,
+suddenly advance and bring their breasts together with a whack. These
+dances are not in great favor with the better class of free blacks, but
+this does not prevent them from occurring every night. Although the
+abolition of slavery is supposed to have taken place in 1878, almost all
+servants are slaves. They are well treated, however, as public opinion
+condemns harshness and quite a rivalry exists in having household slaves
+well dressed and happy looking.</p>
+
+<p>The city has no places of public amusement except a theatre,
+but<!--633.png--><span class="pagenum">624</span>
+this
+for some time has not been used on account of a social war between
+the married women and those who do not consider the marriage ceremony
+essential to their welfare. There is a fair military band, however, which
+plays twice a week in the park in the upper town, and there is hardly a
+night that there is not something going on at some of the private homes.
+A dance at the Governor’s palace is certain to be given once a mouth.</p>
+
+<p>The aborigines of Loanda owe much to the Catholic Church. Its priests
+have taught the natives many trades and industries. There are four
+newspapers published in the city, but they deal mainly in unpleasant
+personalities.</p>
+
+<p>Even more important than Angola, in a commercial and political sense, is
+the Portuguese province to the south, known as Benguella, with Benguella
+as the capital. The town is an old one and has not shared the decay
+incident to the early Portuguese settlements on the western coast. The
+harbor is excellent, and is the entrep&ocirc;t to the celebrated Bih&eacute; section,
+through a series of tribes which Pinto visited and which he describes
+as of superior physique and intelligence. Benguella was once the seat
+of an active slave trade, and Monteiro says, in his volume published in
+1875, that he has seen caravans of 3,000 blacks coming into Benguella
+from Bih&eacute;, fully 1,000 of which were slaves. The white settlers cleared
+many fine plantations about Benguella, which they stocked with slaves and
+upon which large crops of cotton were formerly raised. The contiguous
+tribe is the Mundombe, wild and roving, dirty and selfish, little clothed
+and living in low round-roofed huts. Cattle are their principal riches,
+yet they seldom partake of their flesh, except upon feast days, when
+the whole tribe assembles, and as many as 300 head of fine cattle are
+dispatched in a single day.</p>
+
+<p>It is only within the last few years that this region has been entered by
+the Protestant missionaries. In 1880 the American Board sent out three
+missionaries to Benguella, the port of the Bih&eacute; country. They were Rev.
+Walter W. Bagster, grandson of Samuel Bagster, publisher of the Polyglot
+Bible, and the leader of the expedition; the Rev. Wm. H. Sanders, son
+of a missionary in Ceylon; and Mr. Samuel T. Miller, both of whose
+parents were slaves. The kings of Bailunda and Bih&eacute; showed themselves
+friendly, and
+the<!--635.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_626" id="Page_626">626</a></span>
+missionaries, since reinforced, entered hopefully upon
+their work. On February 22, 1882, Mr. Bagster died from malarial fever.
+Bishop Taylor has opened up a number of stations in Angola, of which
+mention will be made when we come to speak of his work in establishing
+self-supporting missions in Africa.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_625.jpg" width="600" height="377"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">MUNDOMES AND HUTS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A wonderful field has been opened up along the mighty Congo for
+missionary effort. Ten years ago the king of Belgium entered upon the
+development of the Congo region and the establishment of a new African
+State. An official report of the progress attained has just been
+rendered, giving these facts: The Lower Congo has been opened up to
+navigation by large vessels as far as Boma, soundings having been made
+and the course marked out by buoys; a cadastral survey of the Lower Congo
+has been made as a step towards the preparation of a general map of the
+entire region; justice is regularly administered in the Lower Congo, and
+a trustworthy and cheap postal service has been established. At Banana,
+Boma, and Leopoldville medical establishments, under the direction of
+Belgian doctors, have been founded, and a considerable armed force of
+blacks, officered by Europeans, has been called into existence. The
+caravan route between Matadi and Leopoldville is as free from danger
+as a European road, and a complete service of porterage by natives has
+been established. A railway has been projected and the route almost
+entirely surveyed. The state has established herds of cattle at various
+stations, and in the very heart of Africa; on the waters of the Upper
+Congo there is a fleet of steamers every year increasing in number.
+A loan of 150,000,000 francs has been authorized and the first issue
+subscribed. Many of the more intelligent natives from the country drained
+by the Upper Congo have taken service with the State, and numerous
+trading factories have been established as far up the river as Bangala
+and Leuebo. In addition several private companies have been formed for
+developing the country, and finally geographical discoveries of the
+greatest importance have been made, either by the officers of the State
+or by travelers who received great assistance in their work from the
+State.</p>
+
+<p>Speaking of the Congo Mission Dr. Pierson in the <i>Missionary Review</i>
+says: “A grand open door is that which God has set
+before<!--636.png--><span class="pagenum">627</span>
+our Baptist
+brethren in the Congo basin! a million square miles in the heart of
+equatorial Africa, made accessible by the great Congo and its tributaries.</p>
+
+<p>“The great lakes, Nyassa, Victoria, Tanganyika, are comparatively
+isolated; but the Congo and its branches present from 4,000 to 6,000
+miles of river roadway, needing only steamers or canoes to give access to
+these teeming millions. One starts at the mouth of this imperial stream
+and ascends 125 miles of navigable river, then for 185 miles encounters
+rapids and cataracts; but beyond that for over 1,000 miles, from Stanley
+Pool to Stanley Falls, is one grand stretch of navigable river, with
+branches running each way navigable from 100 to 800 miles, and leading
+into the heart of this rich and populous territory.</p>
+
+<p>“The people from the river-mouth up to Stanley Pool and the Equator
+line are being civilized by contact with white traders, and their pagan
+customs largely modified. They speak one language, musical, of large
+capacity of expression and easy of acquisition, and along this line
+the seven Congo stations are already planted. Beyond the point where
+the Congo crosses the Equator, lies another vast population, more
+degraded, less civilized, and needing at once the full array of Christian
+institutions, but yet entirely destitute.</p>
+
+<p>“Their moral and spiritual state is hardly conceivable without contact
+with them. With no idea of God or immortality, they worship fetish
+charms; sickness is not brought about by natural causes, but is the
+result of enchantment; hence the medicine-man must trace disease and
+death to some unhappy human victim or victims, who must suffer the
+witch’s penalty. One death therefore means another&mdash;it may be a dozen.
+Here runaway slaves are crucified, robbers buried alive, young men
+cruelly decapitated, and human beings are even devoured for meat.</p>
+
+<p>“And yet this people, after centuries of virtual seclusion, are now both
+literally and morally accessible. They welcome missionaries, come to the
+chapels, and prove teachable. Even now cruel customs and superstitious
+notions are giving way before patient, humble, scriptural instruction.
+The walls are down, and the hosts of God have but to march straight on
+and take what Dr. Sims calls ‘the last stronghold of Paganism,’</p>
+
+<p><!--637.png--><span class="pagenum">628</span></p>
+
+<p>“Wonderfully indeed has God linked Protestant, Greek, Roman Catholic, and
+even Moslem nations in the administration of the Congo Free State. Never
+was such a highway open for the Gospel since our Lord ascended.</p>
+
+<p>“The Arabs from Zanzibar and the coast are moving toward Stanley Falls
+and the north country, establishing themselves in large villages to
+capture slaves and carry on nefarious traffic, while the Protestant
+forces slowly move upward from the west. The question is, Who is to
+occupy the Congo Basin? and the question is to be settled at once. This
+great highway of rivers means traffic and travel; this rich and splendid
+tropical country invites trade and settlement. Into whose hands shall
+such a heritage be surrendered? The Christian Church must give prompt
+answer by action, her reply must be a taking possession, and the old law
+is the new one: ‘Every place that the sole of your feet shall tread upon
+shall be yours,’ the resolutions of enthusiastic missionary conventions,
+the prayers of all Christendom, the planting of the banner of the cross
+at a few commanding points&mdash;all this will not do. We must send out enough
+Christian laborers to measure off that soil with their own feet.</p>
+
+<p>“‘But it is unhealthy?’ So are all tropical and especially equatorial
+climes to those who are not accustomed to the intense and steady heat,
+and do not use common sense in adapting their clothing, eating and
+drinking, and habits of life, to these peculiar surroundings. One must
+not go from temperate to torrid zone, and wear the garments, eat the
+heating food, use the stimulating drinks, risk the exhausting labors, or
+even live in the same unventilated houses which are permissible in cooler
+latitudes. A trip to New Orleans or Florida has proved fatal to many a
+fool who would not take advice. Even the heroism of the Gospel does not
+demand needless exposure or careless venture.</p>
+
+<p>“Here is a grand opportunity. It may be doubted whether there has been
+anything like it since the clarion voice of our Great Captain trumpeted
+forth the last commission. Ethiopia is stretching forth her hands unto
+God. On those hands are the marks of manacles which England and America
+helped to rivet there. There is but one atonement we can make for
+Africa’s
+wrongs&mdash;it<!--638.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_629" id="Page_629">629</a></span>
+is to lay down our lives, if need be, to redeem her
+sable sons from the captivity of sin.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_629.jpg" width="600" height="595"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NATIVE GRASS HOUSE ON THE CONGO.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>“We ought to turn this Congo into a river of life, crowd its waters with
+a flotilla of Henry Reeds, line its banks with a thousand chapel spires,
+plant its villages with Christian schools, let the Congo Free State mark
+its very territory with the sign of Christian institutions, so that to
+cross its border will be to pass from darkness into light. Where is
+our Christian enterprise, that such a work, with such a field and such
+promise, should wait for workmen and for money! What do our converted
+young men want, as a chance to crowd life with heroic service, that the
+Congo Basin does not attract them! Here what a century ago would have
+taken
+fifty<!--639.png--><span class="pagenum">630</span>
+years to accomplish, may be done in five. The unexplored
+interior is open, the ‘Dark Continent’ waits to be illuminated. Nature
+has cast up her highway of waters, and there is no need to gather out the
+stones. Give us only the two-wheeled chariot, with steam as the steed to
+draw it, and the men and women to go in it bearing the Gospel, and from
+end to end of this highway we can scatter the leaves of that tree which
+are for the healing of the nations.</p>
+
+<p>“Where are the successors of Moffatt and Livingstone! What a hero was
+he who dared forty attacks of fever and then died on his knees beside
+Lake Bangweolo, that he might open up the dark recesses of Africa to the
+missionary! Let us pour men and money at the feet of our Lord. We have
+not yet paid our debt to Simon the Cyrenean and the Eunuch of Ethiopia!”</p>
+
+<p>The Baptist church has for years carried on energetic mission work in
+Africa. The English Baptist Missionary Society, working in co-operation
+with American Baptists, has pushed its way, by means of flourishing
+stations far up the Congo and into the interior. In 1885, it presented
+a steamer, on the Upper Congo, to the American missionaries, and then
+proceeded to build another for its own use. Dr. Guinness, the president
+of this large and prosperous society, on a visit to the United States
+in 1889, spoke thus of the missionary field in Africa: “Stanley was
+three years in discovering the source of the Congo, and though he met
+hundreds of strange tribes in that journey of 1000 miles, he never saw a
+mission station. He found difficulty in coming down this region, but our
+missionaries sent out to evangelize this country found their difficulty
+in going up. We found it comparatively easy to found a station near the
+mouth, and as far as a hundred miles up. After years of labor we reached
+Stanley Pool, which is the key to the interior, but not without the loss
+of hundreds of lives.</p>
+
+<p>“The mission in Africa is in its infancy. Africa is a world in itself.
+The languages spoken would take more than ten hours to enumerate, as
+there are over 600. They are principally the great Soudanese groups. I
+gave a year to making the first grammar of the Congo language that was
+ever prepared. More than 1000 natives have been converted. In this work
+there is the stage of pure indifference, succeeded by one of inquiry,
+then hostility,
+and<!--640.png--><span class="pagenum">631</span>
+finally acquiescence. The natives themselves become
+in many cases messengers of the Gospel.</p>
+
+<p>“I don’t know under Heaven, unless it be in China, a more hopeful mission
+than that Congo field, and here it is for you. You have now water-way
+to the whole of it. It is healthy, notwithstanding all statements to
+the contrary. The interior is healthy, because it is high land, well
+watered, richly wooded, moderate in its climate, and rich in population.
+The trouble with missionaries has been that they stick to the coast
+line, which is malarious. Instead of keeping up in the ordinary way in
+red-tape style a particular station with a few missionaries, you want to
+make an advance into this great interior parish. It is no use for your
+people in this country to say: ‘This is the colored men’s work, let them
+do it,’ They are not suited to be the explorers and controllers of such
+movements. White men must be the leaders and lay the foundation, when the
+colored men will be the helpers.”</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Guinness is maturing plans for a grand advance of three columns
+of missionaries to go simultaneously up the three branches of the
+Congo&mdash;northern, central and southern. The central one may be considered
+as started a fortnight since, by the departure of eight missionaries
+from London, to work as an English auxiliary to the American Baptist
+Missionary Union.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Richards, of the American Baptist Missionary Union, reports that
+the work at Banza Manteke, the place where so many converts have been
+baptized, is still prospering. The young church has been greatly
+tried by persecution as well as by sickness and death. Not less than
+twenty of those baptized have died, and the fatality has been a great
+stumbling-block to the heathen, who have asserted that the sickness was
+sent by their gods because they have been neglected. This has prevented
+many from accepting the Christian faith. The heathen are bitterly
+opposed, and would take the lives of the Christians if they could.
+Recently 17 were baptized, and others are asking for the ordinance, and
+the knowledge of the truth is spreading far and wide.</p>
+
+<p>Those who become intimately acquainted with the negro race as found
+in various parts of Africa bear testimony to its good qualities. The
+coast negro who has learned some of the vices of
+civilization<!--641.png--><span class="pagenum">632</span>
+is
+undoubtedly a sorry specimen of humanity; but where native tribes can be
+found uncontaminated by contact with foreigners, they exhibit sterling
+qualities. Rev. George Grenfell, who has visited all the tribes along
+the Congo, says that the negro would stand his ground before the white
+man. “There is a vitality of race and power about him that is going
+to make him take his place some day among the nations of earth.” In
+support of this opinion, he gives several incidents showing the vigor and
+fidelity of the natives, and especially mentioned an incident which he
+witnessed at Banza Manteka, the station at which the American Baptists
+have recently received so many converts. Three years ago their place was
+a stronghold of grossest superstitions, and there seemed no hope of a
+spiritual harvest; but as Mr. Grenfell was coming down the river, on his
+way to England, he met a band of native evangelists going forth on an
+evangelistic tour. They had set out of their own accord, without even the
+knowledge of the missionary, evidently taking upon themselves the Lord’s
+command to go and preach the Gospel. They had not only forsaken their own
+superstitions, but were vigorously seeking to propagate their new faith.</p>
+
+<p>We have thus given in brief outline a sketch of the work done on the
+west coast of Africa and some of the countries in Central Africa which
+are reached through the west coast. In no part of the world has the
+Gospel achieved more signal triumphs than here, among this barbarous
+people. When the present century opened, the slave trade, with its
+untold horrors, held everywhere undisputed sway. Human sacrifices and
+other cruelties were fearfully prevalent. Revellings and abominable
+idolatries, with the other works of the flesh described in the fifth
+chapter of Galatians, were indulged in to a frightful extent and without
+the slightest restraint. There was then not one ray of light to relieve
+the dense darkness that universally prevailed. It is otherwise now.
+Though little has been done compared with what remains to be done, still
+the slave trade and many other cruel practices have received their death
+blow. The standard of the Cross has been planted all along the western
+shores, and even far into the interior of that great continent. In all
+West Africa, called “The White Man’s Grave,” from Senegambia on the
+north, where the Paris Society is laboring,
+to<!--642.png--><span class="pagenum">633</span>
+Benguella on the south,
+where the American Board has begun to work, there are more than a hundred
+stations and over 200 English, German, French and native missionaries,
+belonging to sixteen societies, with 120,000 converts. And were it not
+for the evils of civilization, which are so much easier for the poor
+barbarians to learn than the virtues, there would be nothing to prevent
+the universal spread of the Gospel in Western Africa, for the people
+there are willing to receive the simple proclamation of Divine truth, and
+the Christian church is awaking to the glorious privilege of making it
+known unto them.</p>
+
+<p>Little mention has been made of the work of Bishop Taylor in this sketch
+of the missions of Western Africa. His work is of such recent date, and
+of so unique a character that we deemed it of sufficient importance to
+warrant a fuller treatment than could be given in connection with the
+other missions. By this method also we can give a much clearer idea of
+what he has done. As his mission stations are confined to Western Africa,
+and regions entered by way of the west coast, this is the proper place to
+speak of his enterprise.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps the most notable missionary movement of the age is that started
+by Bishop Wm. Taylor of the Methodist Episcopal Church, on the continent
+of Africa. Bishop Taylor is of Scotch-Irish parentage, his grand parents
+having immigrated from County Armah, Ireland, to Virginia about 130 years
+ago. They were Revolutionary patriots and so hostile to slavery that they
+set all slaves free, belonging to the family. His father, Stuart Taylor,
+married Martha A. Hickman, and they settled in Rockbridge County in 1819.
+They were Presbyterians, but eventually became converts to Methodism.
+The son, William, was born May 21, 1821. In 1843 he was attached to the
+Baltimore Conference. He came into notice as a Methodist street preacher,
+of extraordinary power, in San Francisco, in 1849. He established a
+church there and continued to preach till 1856. Being a natural pioneer
+in the mission field, full of pluck and original ideas, he visited other
+parts of the United States and went into Canada and England. Then he
+went to the West Indies and into British Guiana, preaching and founding
+churches. Next, he visited Australia, where he met with a success which
+may well
+be<!--644.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_635" id="Page_635">635</a></span>
+called phenomenal. The same success attended his trip to
+Tasmania and New Zealand. With a foot that never tired, he went to
+South Africa and then to the Island of Ceylon, awakening the people by
+his eloquence and earnestness. He returned through India, arousing the
+sleeping nations, and leaving as a permanent monument to his fame the
+fully organized South India Methodist Conference.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_634.jpg" width="600" height="381"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SOME OF BISHOP TAYLOR’S MISSIONARIES. 1:
+<span class="smcap">Rev. B. F. Kephart,</span> St. Paul, Minn. 2: <span class="smcap">Mrs. Kephart.</span>
+3: <span class="smcap">Agnes McAllister,</span> Troy, Ohio. 4: <span class="smcap">Barbara Millard,</span>
+Hemmingford, Quebec. 5: <span class="smcap">Eddy H. Greely,</span> Fostoria, Ohio. 6:
+<span class="smcap">Georgina Dean,</span> Des Moines, Iowa. 7: <span class="smcap">Clara Binkley,</span>
+Bristol, Ontario. 8: <span class="smcap">K. Val. Eckman,</span> Fulda, Minn. 9: <span class="smcap">Robt.
+C. Griffith,</span> Gotland, Sweden.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>He was now in the midst of his powers, and with well defined aims as to
+the plan and scope of mission establishments. As to himself, personal
+work was what was required; as to the missions, a sense of independence
+which would conduce to their growth and perpetuity. No mission was to be
+an asylum for lazy, superannuated men and women, drawing on a home fund
+for support, but each was to be self-supporting as far as possible, after
+its period of juvenility was over. Full of this impression he entered the
+Brazilian country, or for that matter, South America at large, and began
+a work of founding missions which astounded his church and the world by
+its success. Schools and churches sprang up as if by magic, right in the
+midst of populations wedded to the old Catholic creeds and forms, and the
+effect of his evangelism is as far reaching as time.</p>
+
+<p>After this he turned his attention to Africa, as a field calling most
+loudly for civilization and Christianity; and more, as the field best
+suited to his evangelizing methods. He was elected Bishop of Africa by
+the General Conference of the Methodist Church, in May, 1884, and sailed
+for his new and limitless parish in December, 1884. After four years of
+heroic struggle, with successes which in every way justified his labors
+and plans, he returned to the United States in April, 1888, and sailed
+again for Africa in December of the same year, having equipped and sent
+in advance, November 13, 1888, twenty new missionaries.</p>
+
+<p>His Transit and Building Fund bore the expense, and it was well supplied
+for the emergency by voluntary contributions from the United States and
+Canada. Fifteen homes in Africa became a requisite for these Christian
+workers, together with at least a year’s sustenance. Still the fund
+failed not, but had to spare for the Bishop’s personal comfort. Thus at
+one end of the Christian line work inured to the supply of necessities
+which should lead up
+to<!--645.png--><span class="pagenum">636</span>
+self-support in the missionary field, and at the
+other end it shaped for the development of those indigenous resources
+which should establish independence.</p>
+
+<p>The characteristics of his work, aside from his individual energy,
+wonderful ingenuity, and magnetic power, are:</p>
+
+<p>(1) <i>Self-supporting Missions.</i> Missionaries are provided with a suitable
+outfit, have their passage paid, are provided with a home and seeds
+for planting. They are expected to do the best with the first year’s
+equipment, and to take such steps as will put them on an independent
+footing by the second year. This is not more a test of their own industry
+and efficiency, than an example to the natives to live in peace and
+adopt civilized means of obtaining a livelihood. It is an invitation to
+heroic spirits to enter the mission field, and is an earnest of tact and
+endurance which must prove of infinite value to those with whom they
+are in contact. It is the nearest approach any church has ever made to
+the thought, that a spiritual avenue to the heathen, and especially the
+shrewd African heathen, is most direct when it leads up through his
+business and work-a-day instincts to his heart.</p>
+
+<p>(2) <i>Native Co&ouml;peration.</i> This is best assured by appearing to be on an
+equality with them. The missionary who is backed by a home exchequer and
+who is not compelled to resort to ordinary means of subsistence, is apt
+to grow exclusive and become a source of envy and suspicion. He is far
+more potential when he is as much one of his people as circumstances
+will allow, and like them dependent on the ordinary laws of industry
+for subsistence. There is but little risk in this to the man of energy,
+skill and health, where climate and soil are favorable for production,
+and all nature conspires to reward industry. It attracts the natives,
+secures their confidence and co&ouml;peration, and adapts them for the almost
+unconscious receipt of enlightenment and Christianity. Nothing so disarms
+them of suspicion, or serves better to silence controversy, than this
+quiet show of permanent settlement in their midst and the atmosphere
+of thrifty contentment which surrounds a newly-made mission home and
+vegetable garden.</p>
+
+<p>(3) <i>Elements of a Pure Civilization.</i> The school goes with the mission,
+the garden and field with the school. Sermons there
+are,<!--646.png--><span class="pagenum">637</span>
+but not to the
+neglect of school work. School-hours there are, but not to the neglect of
+soil cultivation. Practical education is paramount. The seeds, the trees,
+the plants, which are fitted for the climate, are planted and tended,
+and the natives are asked to come and work by the side of the missionary
+and to learn the art of turning the earth to account. Thus a primitive
+Industrial School is started in every mission, and the laws of thrift and
+self-dependence go hand in hand with those of morality and spirituality.
+As things have gone, it is surely a novel, and perhaps a hard, life for
+a missionary, but in that it is an effective means of conversion and
+enlightenment, the sacrifice does not seem too great. After all, does it
+not entirely meet the objections of those who so vehemently urge that the
+only way to make missionary work successful among African natives is to
+wait until commerce has reconciled them to contact with the outer world?</p>
+
+<p>(4) <i>Not Confined to the Ordinary Ministry.</i> It opens the field of
+missionary endeavor to earnest, moral men of every occupation. Teachers,
+artisans, laborers in every branch of industry, become invaluable
+servants of the Lord, under this system. Children as well as parents may
+share the honors of introducing Christ in this practical way, the key to
+which is example. What so inspiring as the confidence of equality and
+co-labor! To be like a teacher in what appertains to material welfare, is
+father to a wish to be like him or her in what appertains to spiritual
+welfare.</p>
+
+<p>(5) <i>Coast-Line Missions.</i> These are practicable and necessary at first.
+But they are only evangelical bases for the more numerous and grander
+structures soon to be erected within the continent.</p>
+
+<p>In support of his system the Bishop brings to bear an experience wider
+than that of any living missionary, to which must be added a special
+study of the African natives and the entire African situation.</p>
+
+<p>He says that the untutored heathen of Africa have no vain philosophy by
+which to explain away their perception of God as a great personal being.
+They have their “greegrees,” “charms” and “armulets,” but they never pray
+to them, they cry to God in the day of trouble. In the extreme south
+God’s name is “Dahlah,” “Tixo” and “Enkosi.” In south central Africa His
+name is “En
+Zambe.”<!--647.png--><span class="pagenum">638</span>
+The Zambesi river is called after God. On the west
+coast his name is “Niswah.” All these words express clear perceptions of
+one great God of heaven and earth.</p>
+
+<p>He further relates that one day he was preaching to King Damassi of the
+Ama Pondo nation, about the resurrection. One of the king’s counsellors
+expressed dissent from the Bishop’s doctrine. The king, a giant in
+physique, frowned at him and said: “Hold your tongue you scoundrel! You
+know well our fathers believed in the resurrection of the dead, and so do
+we.”</p>
+
+<p>When a Kaffirman dies they dig a grave about two feet wide and five deep
+and let the corpse down in a squatting position. But before it is lowered
+they seat him beside the grave, to allow anyone who wishes to talk with
+it. This is consequence of their belief that though the spirit has left
+the body it still lingers near for a last communication with friend or
+foe. If any present has an unadjusted quarrel with the hovering spirit,
+he approaches and makes his peace, and then begs that the shade will not
+return to bewitch his children or cattle. Others come and send messages
+of peace to their fathers by means of the departing spirit, and still
+others send word very much as if the departure of a spirit were a sure
+means of communication between this and the final home of good people.
+When analyzed, their belief is supreme that the body returns to dust at
+death, but that the spirit is immortal; that the spirit retains all its
+faculties and forces, and has independent senses corresponding with the
+bodily senses; that good spirits dwell with God in happiness and that
+those who follow will commune with them. These things they have never
+learned from books, nor teachers. They are intuitions.</p>
+
+<p>In February, 1888, Bishop Taylor visited a dead chief, near Tataka on
+the Cavalla river. He had been a prominent man, a giant in size, and had
+given leave to found a mission in his tribe. But he knew no language but
+his own and had never heard the Gospel preached. He was found sleeping
+tranquilly in death, and inquiry revealed the fact that he had talked all
+through the night of his death with “Niswah”&mdash;God&mdash;and had called on Him
+repeatedly&mdash;“Niswah I am your man!” “Niswah, I trust
+you!”<!--648.png--><span class="pagenum">639</span>
+“Niswah, I
+accept you!” Belief, even unto salvation, could not have been seemingly
+stronger.</p>
+
+<p>To translate the Christian Bible into the languages spoken by those
+among whom missionary effort is put forth, has always been regarded as a
+necessary step to successful apostolic work. It would be an herculean,
+if not impossible task in a country where languages are so numerous and
+dialects so diverse as in Africa. Even if not so, the task requires
+scholarship of a high order, patience such as few mortals possess, time
+which might count for much if otherwise employed, and an exchequer
+which can be drawn upon indefinitely. Bishop Taylor has reversed the
+old procedure in his missionary contact with the African natives. Still
+recognizing the necessity for learning their languages in order to
+facilitate communication, he, however, insists that they shall learn
+ours, as a means of fuller expression of ideas, and especially of those
+ideas which represent newly acquired knowledge and quickened spiritual
+emotions. But how should he overcome the formidable obstacle our language
+presents, in its complicated grammar and orthography, to all foreigners?
+Especially, how should the African boy and girl, in the mission school,
+be taught what our own more favored boys and girls find so appallingly
+difficult? The Bishop’s way out of it was to introduce the phonetic, or
+natural sound, element into his mission schools. It proved, in common
+parlance, a hit from the start. Here is a sample of his English, as
+phonetically adapted for his African pupils:</p>
+
+<p>“Bishop Taylor findz our English mod ov speling wun ov the gratest
+drabaksin teching the nativz; and also wun ov the gratist obstiklz in
+redusing the nativ languajez to riting. Mishunarez evri whar hav kompland
+ov thez dificultez. Bishop Taylor haz kut the Gordian not; or at lest haz
+so far swung los from komun uzaj az to adopt Pitman’z fonetik stil ov
+reding, riting and teching.</p>
+
+<p>“Just rit a fu pajz, speling az we do her; and then, ‘just for the fun ov
+it,’ rit a few letrz to frendz in the sam stil. Bi the tim u hav dun so,
+u wil be enamrd with its ez, and son will pronouns it butiful az wel az
+ezi. Tech it to sum children and se how qikli tha wil mastr it.”</p>
+
+<p>Probably no better description can be given of what has
+already<!--649.png--><span class="pagenum">640</span>
+been
+accomplished, than that found in his report to the Missionary Committee,
+which we give in full, and in extracts from his recent letters.</p>
+
+<div class="center">BISHOP TAYLOR’S REPORT TO THE MISSIONARY COMMITTEE.</div>
+
+<p>“<i>Dear Brethren and Fellow-laborers in the work of the Lord</i>:</p>
+
+<p>“I respectfully submit the following report of our new missions in
+Africa. The report of the African Conference I sent, as usual, to the
+missionary secretaries immediately after its adjournment last February.
+I might repeat the same here, but did not retain a copy, and leaving
+Liberia in April, and ever since moving on, I have not received a copy of
+the printed minutes.</p>
+
+<p>“I will, in this report, note the stations in the order in which I
+visited them this year, and not in the order of time in which they were
+founded.</p>
+
+<p>“<i>West Coast Stations.</i>&mdash;Most of these stations commenced, with
+mission-houses erected on them, two years ago, when a portion of them
+were supplied with missionaries, a portion not till March of this year;
+and two or three remain to be supplied. Miss Dingman and Miss Bates have
+gone out since I left Liberia, and I have not heard where Brother Kephart
+has stationed them. It was understood from the beginning that we could
+not take boarding-scholars, nor open our school-work regularly till we
+could produce from the soil plenty of native food for their sustenance,
+and build school-houses. I arranged for building fourteen houses in our
+missions on the west coast this year for chapel and school purposes. I
+have received no general report since I left in April; hence, I cannot
+say how many of these houses have been completed. They were to be good
+frame and weather-boarded and shingle-roofed houses, 18&times;25 feet, and
+will, I doubt not, be all finished before the end of this year.</p>
+
+<p>“<i>Cavalla River District.</i>&mdash;B. F. Kephart, P. E.</p>
+
+<p>“(1) <i>Wissikah Station</i>, about forty miles up from the mouth of the
+river. Its king, chiefs and people received a missionary, built him a
+good native house and supported him for several months, when he was
+removed to supply a larger station vacated by one who withdrew from our
+work; so Wissikah remains to be
+supplied.<!--650.png--><span class="pagenum">641</span>
+Probable value of our land and
+improvements on Wissikah Station, $500.</p>
+
+<p>“(2) <i>Yubloky</i>, ascending the stream, also on the west bank of Cavalla
+river. Missionary, J. R. Ellery. A good basis of self-sustentation
+already laid. Probable value, $1,000.</p>
+
+<p>“(3) <i>Yorkey.</i>&mdash;Andrew Ortlip, missionary. Regular preaching in both of
+these stations, and some progress in teaching. Probable value, $1,000.</p>
+
+<p>“(4) <i>Tataka</i>, on the east bank of the river, Miss Rose Bowers and Miss
+Annie Whitfield, missionaries. These are very earnest missionaries, and
+have done an immense amount of hard work, teaching, talking of God and
+salvation to the people in their own houses and growing most of their own
+food. Probable value of land improvements, $1,000.</p>
+
+<p>“(5) <i>Beabo.</i>&mdash;H. Garwood, missionary. Brother Garwood was appointed
+to Beabo last March, and will, I trust, make a success, which was but
+limited under the administration of his predecessor, who is a good
+man but not a self-supporting success, and has hence returned home.
+Beabo is on the west bank of the river, and has adequate resources of
+self-support, and of opportunities for usefulness. Probable value, $900.</p>
+
+<p>“(6) <i>Bararobo</i>, on the east bank. Chas. Owens and E. O. Harris,
+missionaries. This station, with two energetic young men to develop its
+capabilities, will, I hope, in the near future prove a success. Probable
+value, $900.</p>
+
+<p>“(7) <i>Gerribo</i>, west bank. A mission-house built two years ago, but the
+station remains to be supplied. Probable value, $800.</p>
+
+<p>“(8) <i>Wallaky</i> is the big town of the Gerribo tribe, twelve miles west of
+Gerribo town, on west bank of the river. Our missionary at Wallaky is Wm.
+Schneidmiller, a zealous young man from Baltimore. Having been brought up
+in a city, he has much to learn to become an effective backwoods pioneer;
+but he has faith, love, push, and patience and is succeeding. Probable
+value, $900.</p>
+
+<p>“We have traveled nearly a hundred miles up the river, almost equal to
+the Hudson, and then west twelve miles to Wallaky. Now we go south by a
+narrow path over rugged mountain, hills and dales, a distance of about
+forty miles to&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><!--651.png--><span class="pagenum">642</span></p>
+
+<p>“(9) <i>Plebo.</i>&mdash;Wm. Yancey and wife, missionaries. A hopeful young station
+of good possibilities. Probable value, $900.</p>
+
+<p>“Nine miles walking westerly we reach</p>
+
+<p>“(10) <i>Barreky.</i>&mdash;Wm. Warner and wife, missionaries. They are hard
+workers, and are bound to make self-support. Brother Warner is mastering
+the native language, and when ready to preach in it, will have open to
+him a circuit of eleven towns belonging to the Barreky tribe. Probable
+value, $900.</p>
+
+<p>“On eight of the ten stations just named, we have frame, weather-boarded,
+shingle-roofed houses, the floors elevated about six feet above ground;
+the whole set on pillars of native logs from the forest. In all these
+places, also, school-houses, as before intimated, are being built. Each
+station is in a tribe entirely distinct and separate from every other
+tribe, and each river town represents a larger population far back in the
+interior of the wild country.</p>
+
+<p>“<i>Cape Palmas District.</i>&mdash;B. F. Kephart, P. E. Brother Kephart is
+Presiding Elder of Mt. Scott and Tubmantown Circuit. Sister Kephart is
+a grand helper. They are teaching the people the blessedness of giving
+adequately to support their pastors. These people are confronted by two
+formidable difficulties, their old-established habits of being helped,
+and their poverty and lack of ability to help themselves; but they are
+being blest in giving like the Widow of Serepta, and will, I hope, work
+their way out.</p>
+
+<p>“Clarence Gunnison, our missionary carpenter, and Prof. E. H. Greely.
+B. A., to be principal of our academy and missionary training-school in
+Cape Palmas, as soon as we shall get the seminary repaired, have their
+headquarters at Cape Palmas, but are engaged in building school-houses,
+and will then (<i>D.V.</i>) repair the seminary buildings, both in Cape Palmas
+and in Monrovia. We had unexpected detention in getting suitable lumber
+for repairs, but can now get the best Norway pine delivered on the ground
+at a cheap rate.</p>
+
+<p>“(11) <i>Pluky</i>, across Hoffman River, from Cape Palmas, is the beginning
+of our Kru coast line of stations. Miss Lizzie McNeal is the missionary.
+Though two years in the station, we have not yet built a mission-house in
+Pluky. Miss McNeal teaches school in a native house in the midst of the
+town, and preaches on Sabbath days under the shade of a bread-fruit tree.
+Her school-house
+is<!--652.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_643" id="Page_643">643</a></span>
+crowded, and she has six of her boys and three girls
+converted to God, who testify for Jesus in her meetings, and help her in
+her soul-saving work. Probable value, $800, in land. Miss Barbara Miller
+assists her temporarily, but her specialties are kindergarten and music,
+awaiting the opening of the academy.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_643.jpg" width="600" height="382"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">GARAWAY MISSION HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>“(12) <i>Garaway</i>, twenty miles northwest of Cape Palmas. Miss Agnes
+McAllister is in charge of the station, and Miss Clara Binkley has
+special charge of our educational department, both working successfully
+as missionaries. Aunt Rachel, a Liberian widow woman, runs the farm, and
+produces indigenous food enough to feed two or three stations. This is
+a station of great promise. Probable value, $1,200. We have a precious
+deposit in a little cemetery on the plain, in sight of the mission-house,
+of the consecrated blood and bones of dear Brother Gardner and dear
+Sister Meeker.</p>
+
+<p>“(13) <i>Piquinini Ses.</i>&mdash;Miss Anna Beynon is in special charge of the
+household department. Miss Georgianna Dean has charge of the school-work,
+and Victor Hugo, a young German missionary, has charge of the school
+farm. Mrs. Nelson, a Liberian widow, is chief cook. They are succeeding
+hopefully for beginners.
+This<!--653.png--><span class="pagenum">644</span>
+station is about thirty miles northwest of
+Cape Palmas. Probable value, $1,100.</p>
+
+<p>“(14) <i>Grand Ses.</i>&mdash;Jas. B. Robertson, assisted by Mr. Hanse, a Congo
+young man, who was saved at a series of meetings I conducted in Cape
+Palmas, in 1885. They are just getting started in their work, but already
+see signs of awakening among the people. Probable value, $1,100.</p>
+
+<p>“(15) <i>Sas Town.</i>&mdash;Missionaries, K. Valentine Eckman, R. C. Griffith.
+I spent a month in Sas Town last spring, and we have there a church
+organization of probationers, numbering twenty-five Krumen. Probable
+value, $1,400.</p>
+
+<p>“(16) <i>Niffu.</i> To be supplied. Probable value, $1,000.</p>
+
+<p>“(17) <i>Nanna Kru.</i>&mdash;Henry Wright appointed last April, not heard from
+since. Probable value, $1,000.</p>
+
+<p>“(18) <i>Settra Kru.</i>&mdash;B. J. Turner and wife. A fair promise of success in
+farming, teaching and preaching. Probable value, $1,100.</p>
+
+<p>“On each of these Kru stations named, except Pluky, we have a
+mission-house of frame, elevated on pillars, six feet above ground;
+floors of boards from the saw-pits of Liberia, siding and roofing
+of galvanized iron; each house measuring in length thirty-six feet,
+breadth twenty-two feet, beside veranda, providing space for a central
+hall, 12x22 feet, and two rooms at each end, 11x12 feet. There is not a
+Liberian or foreigner of any sort in any of the stations named on Cavalla
+River or Kru Coast, except our missionaries, all heathens, as nude as any
+on the Congo, except a few men of them who ‘follow the sea,’ hence, our
+houses, which would not be admired in New York City, are considered to be
+‘houses of big America for true.’</p>
+
+<p>“(19) <i>Ebenezer</i>, west side of Sinou River, nearly twenty miles from
+Sinou. New house just completed. Z. Roberts in charge. A school of over
+twenty scholars opened. The king of the tribe has proclaimed Sunday as
+God’s, and ordered his people not to work on God’s day, but go to his
+house and hear his Word. This mission supersedes Jacktown, on the east
+bank of Sinou River, where we proposed last spring to found a mission,
+but did not. Ebenezer is worth to us $800 at least.</p>
+
+<p><!--654.png--><span class="pagenum">645</span></p>
+
+<p>“(20) <i>Benson River.</i>&mdash;Missionary, Dr. Dan Williams. This is in Grand
+Bassa Country, difficult of access; hence, in my hasty voyages along the
+coast I have not yet been able to visit the Doctor, and cannot report
+definitely. He is holding on, and will, I hope, hold out and make a
+success in all his departments of work. The station ought to be worth
+$800.</p>
+
+<p>“The Benson River Station is in the bounds of Grand Bassa District. We
+arranged for building on two other stations in Grand Bassa Country at
+the same time that I provided for Benson River; namely, King Kie Peter’s
+big town, and Jo Benson’s town; but at last account the houses were not
+built, so for the time we drop them off our list. They are on a great
+caravan trail to the populous interior. We will take them up or better
+ones by and by.</p>
+
+<p>“From the west coast we proceed by steamer to the great Congo country.
+Two days above Congo mouth we land at Mayumba, and proceed in boats
+seventeen miles up an inland lake to Mamby, where Miss Martha E. Kah is
+stationed, and where our Brother A. I. Sortore sleeps in Christ. When
+we settled there it was in the bounds of the ‘Free State of Congo,’ but
+later the published decrees of the Berlin Conference put it under the
+wing of the French Government. The French authorities have recognized
+and registered our native title to 100 acres of good land, and are not
+unfriendly to us by any means, but ‘by law’ forbid us to teach any
+language but French. Good has been done at Mamby, and is being done.
+Owing to this disability we have proposed to abandon it, but Martha Kah
+is entirely unwilling to leave, and as it is our only footing in French
+territory, and as they hold a vast region, peopled by numerous nations of
+African heathen, we have thought it best thus far to hold on to Mamby.
+Probable value, $1,000.</p>
+
+<p>“(21) <i>Kabinda</i>, near the Congo mouth. I never have had time to make
+the acquaintance of any person at Kabinda. Having full confidence in
+J. L. Judson as a man of superior ability and integrity, I gave him
+letters to the Portuguese governor of Kabinda, requesting the consent
+and co-operation of his excellency, to enable Judson to found a mission
+there. His excellency received him most cordially, gave him a public
+dinner, the merchants of the place being guests. For a year he reported
+extraordinary success in
+every<!--655.png--><span class="pagenum">646</span>
+department of his work. He went in by a
+dash, and went out like a flash&mdash;by sudden death.</p>
+
+<p>“I called at Kabinda last May, and learned from a merchant there that
+King Frank, of whom Judson bought our mission premises, held the property
+for nonpayment, which Judson had reported all settled, conveyed, and deed
+recorded. King Frank, at the time of my call, was absent away up the
+coast, so that I could not reach the exact facts. I have written to the
+merchant whom I met, requesting him to find out the facts, but have as
+yet received no reply. So things at Kabinda are in a tangle at present.
+I have not yet found time to go and unravel it. To recover it or lose it
+will neither make nor break us, but we shall regret to lose it.</p>
+
+<p>“Passing the mouth of the Congo River, we proceed by steamer over 300
+miles to the beautiful land-locked harbor of St. Paul de Loanda. This
+Portuguese town has many massive buildings, including churches in ruins,
+dating back over 300 years. It has an estimated population of 5,000,
+a few hundred of whom are Portuguese (one English house of business),
+the rest being negroes. From the beginning we have had adequate
+self-supporting resources in Loanda from the Portuguese patronage of
+our schools, and have now, but at present we lack the teaching corps
+requisite.</p>
+
+<p>“Wm. P. Dodson, who succeeded C. M. McLean, who returned home last May
+on account of sickness, is our minister at Loanda. He is a holy young
+man, a good linguist in Portuguese and Kimbundu, and is doing a good
+work. He has one fine young native man saved, whom I baptized during my
+recent visit. I learn since that he is leading a new life, and becoming
+a valuable helper in our work. Our mission property in Loanda is worth
+at least $10,000. It is quite unnecessary for Loanda or for any other
+station we have in Africa to add ‘and no debts,’ for we have none.</p>
+
+<p>“We are trying to find just the right man and wife for our school in
+Loanda, but would rather wait for years than to get unsuitable persons.</p>
+
+<p>“From Loanda we proceed by steamer sixty miles south by sea, and cross
+the bar into the mouth of Coanza River, as large as the Hudson, and
+ascend 180 miles to Dondo, at the head of
+steamboat<!--656.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_647" id="Page_647">647</a></span>
+navigation. Dondo
+is a noted trading centre, and has a population of about 5,000, mostly
+negroes.</p>
+
+<p>“We had good property in Dondo, worth about $5,000. A great deal of
+hard work, successful preparatory work, has been done in Dondo. Its
+school-work and machine-shop were self-supporting when manned, but is now
+in the same position as Loanda, awaiting good workers to man it.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_647.png" width="600" height="363"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">MAP OF ANGOLA.</span>
+<a href="images/i_647x.png" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>“Our Presiding Elder, E. A. Withey, of Angola District, and his daughter
+Stella, a rare linguist in Portuguese and Kimbundu, and of great
+missionary promise, were holding the fort at Dondo when I recently
+visited that region. Their home was at Pungo Andongo, eighty-nine miles
+distant. Stella and I walked a mile or more to visit the graves of Sister
+Cooper, and of our grandest Dondo worker, Mrs. Mary Myers Davenport,
+M.D., in the cemetery, which is inclosed by a high stone wall. Her last
+words are inscribed on her tombstone. They were addressed to Him who
+was nearest and dearest to her in that lone hour&mdash;to Jesus: ‘I die for
+Thee, here in Africa.’ She would have died for Jesus anywhere, but had
+consecrated her all to him ‘for Africa.’ In about a month from that time
+our dear Stella, so ripe for heaven, but so greatly needed
+in<!--657.png--><span class="pagenum">648</span>
+Africa,
+was laid by her side. So that three of our missionary heroines sleep in
+Jesus at Dondo. Their ashes are among the guarantees of our ultimate
+success in giving life to millions in Africa, who are ‘dead in trespasses
+and sins.’</p>
+
+<p>“From Dondo, we ‘take it afoot’ fifty-one miles over hills, mountains
+and vales, by the old caravan trail of the ages to Nhanguepepo Mission
+Station. Our property there is worth about $6,000. It was designed to
+be a receiving station, in which our new-comers might be acclimatized,
+taught native languages and prepared for advance work. Under the
+superintendency of Brother Withey a great preparatory work has been done
+at this station. It has, however, become specially a training school
+for native agency, under the leadership of one young man of our first
+party from America, Carl Rudolph. We already have an organized Methodist
+Episcopal Church at this station, composed of thirteen converted native
+men and boys, who are giving good proof of the genuineness of the change
+wrought in them by the Holy Spirit. From 5 to 6 o’clock every morning
+they have a meeting for worship, Scripture reading and exposition by
+Carl, singing, prayers and testimony for Jesus by all in English,
+Portuguese and Kimbundu, intermingled with hallelujah shouts of praise to
+N’Zambi the God of their fathers and of our fathers.</p>
+
+<p>“The forenoon is devoted to manual labor by all hands, then school
+and religious exercises in the afternoon. The work of each day is
+distributed; two of our boys, called “pastors,” have the care of about
+100 head of cattle belonging to the mission. Several boys are taught
+to yoke and work oxen in sled or plow; several boys have learned to
+be stone-masons, and when I was there last were engaged in building a
+stone wall round the cattle corral. One boy is trained to business in
+the little store belonging to the mission. One very trusty fellow is the
+man-of-all work about the house and the cook. All these varieties of work
+are done by our own converted people, and not by heathen hirelings. This
+station yields ample sustentation for all these workers. The brethren are
+making improvements continually, and paying for them out of their net
+profits. In building a chapel next summer they may need a little help,
+but probably not.</p>
+
+<p><!--658.png--><span class="pagenum">649</span></p>
+
+<p>“Dear Nellie Mead, one of ‘our children’ of 1885, natural musician and
+lovely Christian, died at the age of about 16 at this station. A tomb of
+rude masonry marks the sacred spot, near the caravan trail, where Nellie
+and baby Willie Hicks will wait till Jesus comes.</p>
+
+<p>“A march of thirty-eight miles easterly along the same old path brings us
+to Pungo Andongo, a great place for trade, a town of probably 1,200 or
+1,500 population. It is wedged in between stupendous mountains, in solid
+blocks of conglomerate of small stones of basalt and flint, perpendicular
+for a thousand feet on all sides. We have a large adobe-house, including
+chapel and store-room, and nearly an acre of ground with fruit-bearing
+trees in the town, and a good farm of about 300 acres a mile out, worth
+probably altogether about $4,000.</p>
+
+<p>“That is the residence of A. E. Withey and Mrs. Withey. Their son Bertie,
+in his seventeenth year, tall and commanding, speaks fluently the
+languages of the country and has in him the making of a grand missionary.
+His two little sisters, Lottie and Flossie, are among the Lord’s chosen
+ones. The developed stand-by of this station is Charles A. Gordon. He is
+a young man of marvelous ability, adapted to every variety of our work.
+In preaching power in all the languages of that region he is second to
+none. Withey and Gordon are our principal merchants, and while doing a
+good business, in the meantime, by truth, honesty and holy living and
+faithful testimony for Jesus in different languages are bringing the
+Gospel into contact with a large class of traders from the far interior,
+who could not be reached by ordinary methods.</p>
+
+<p>“Pungo Andongo Station has crossed the lines of sustentation and of
+absolute self-support, and is making money to open new stations in the
+regions beyond. We have two missionary graves at Pungo Andongo, one
+of Henry Kelley, a noble missionary apprentice from the Vey Tribe of
+Liberia, and the other of dear Sister Dodson (formerly Miss Brannon, from
+Boston). They both ‘sleep in Jesus,’ and will rise quickly to his call in
+the morning.</p>
+
+<p>“An onward march of sixty-two miles brings us to Malange, a town of
+probably 2,000 population, and noted for its merchandise. Our people
+there are Samuel J. Mead, P. E., his wife
+Ardella,<!--659.png--><span class="pagenum">650</span>
+refined, well
+educated and a fine musician, at the head of our school-work. Willie Mead
+is head of the mechanical department; his wife is especially engaged in
+teaching missionaries. They are all noble specimens of vigorous minds,
+holy hearts, healthy bodies and superior linguists and workers. Robert
+Shields, a young missionary from Ireland, who was brought up at home
+for a merchant, runs a small mission store at Malange, preaches in the
+Kimbundu, and has a growing circuit extending among the villages of the
+surrounding country. Our Kimbundu teacher in the school was Bertha Mead,
+niece of Samuel J. Mead. She was one of ‘our children’ in 1855. She was
+wholly devoted to God and his work. On the first Sabbath of my visit
+to Malange, last June, she was united in marriage to Robert Shields.
+Immediately after her marriage she put my sermon for the occasion into
+Kimbundu, without hesitation, in distinct utterances, full of unction,
+which stirred a crowded audience, a number of whom were from the kingdom
+of Lunda, about 600 miles further east. In Sunday-school of the afternoon
+of that memorable day I heard Bertha put forty-one questions from the No.
+1 Catechism of our church, and the school together answered the whole of
+them promptly; first in English and then in Kimbundu. The native people
+of that country are known by the name of the Umbunda people. Kimbundu is
+the name of their language. An interesting episode occurred while the
+forty-one questions were being asked and answered. The old king, who
+lived nineteen miles distant from Malange, was present, and manifested
+great interest in the proceedings, and interjected a question, of course,
+in his own language, which was: ‘Why did not the first man and his wife
+go right to God, and confess their sins, and get forgiveness?’ Bertha
+answered him, of course, in his own language, to this effect: ‘They were
+not guilty simply of a private offense against their Father, but a crime
+against the government of the great King of all worlds. The penalty
+involved was death and eternal banishment to a dreadful place prepared
+for the devil and all his followers, called ‘Inferno.’ God had to break
+his own word, dishonor his government, and destroy the legal safeguards
+he had established to protect the rights of his true and loyal subjects,
+or execute the penalty of law on that guilty man and his
+wife.<!--660.png--><span class="pagenum">651</span>
+Moreover,
+the devil-nature had struck clear through that man and his wife. They had
+become so full of lies and deceit that they had no desire to repent, so
+that all the Judge could righteously do was to pass sentence on them and
+turn them over to the executioners of justice.’ The heathen king leaned
+over and listened with great attention, and his countenance was like that
+of a man awaiting his sentence to be hung. Bertha went on and pictured
+the guilty pair standing at the bar of justice, each holding the saswood
+cup of death in hand, awaiting the order to drink it and die. ‘Then the
+Son of God was very sorry for the man and his woman, and talked with his
+Father about them, and made a covenant with his Father to redeem them.
+He would at a day agreed on unite himself with a son descended from the
+guilty woman, and drink their cup of death, and provide for them his
+‘cup of salvation,’ and would protect God’s truth, righteousness and
+government, and provide deliverance, purity and everlasting happiness for
+the guilty man and his wife, and for all their family&mdash;the whole race of
+mankind.’ As Bertha went on to describe how Jesus did, according to his
+covenant, come into the world and teach all people the right way for them
+to walk in, and did die for man the most awful of all deaths&mdash;‘even the
+death of the cross’&mdash;and did arise from the dead and is now our law-giver
+in God’s Court, and our doctor to heal and purify us, and invites all
+to come to him, ‘and he will give them rest,’ the old chief seemed to
+take it all in through open eyes, ears and mouth till he could no longer
+restrain his feelings, and broke out and cried and laughed immoderately,
+and yelled at the top of his voice, and clapt his hands for joy. He had
+never heard the ‘good news’ before. I, meantime, quietly wept and prayed,
+and then thanked God. I remember how Bertha and our other dear missionary
+children used to ramble with me over the hills of Loanda. I was the only
+big playmate they had, and they used to wait anxiously for the shades of
+evening in which to have a stroll with their big brother; and now to see
+my tall, modest Bertha with perfect ease breaking the bread of life to
+the heathen fathers, I have no remembrance of ever before quietly weeping
+so much in one day as I did that day.</p>
+
+<p>“Brother Samuel Mead has adopted eight native boys and girls,
+and<!--661.png--><span class="pagenum">652</span>
+is
+bringing them up in the way they should go. His hour for morning family
+worship is from 4 to 5 o’clock. The alarm clock rouses them all at 4 A.M.
+In fifteen minutes they are all washed and dressed. The services vary
+and are full of life and interest: Scripture reading and explanation,
+singing of a number of different hymns in three different languages.
+None are called on to pray, but voluntarily they all lead in turn, some
+in English, some in Portuguese and some in Kimbundu. I kept account one
+morning and found that sixteen different ones led in prayer at that
+meeting. From 11 A.M. to 12 M., Sam Mead joins Willie’s family in a
+similar service. No family worship in the evenings, as many of them are
+taken up by public meetings in the chapel.</p>
+
+<p>“Our church, organized at Malange at the time of my visit, contained
+twenty-one natives, all probationers, of course, but baptized and saved.
+The tide is rising.</p>
+
+<p>“Our property at Malange is worth probably $6,000. Samuel J. Mead has
+charge of a big farm and is making it pay. Brother Willie trained four
+native men to run two pit-saws, and in the last year has turned out
+$1,500 worth of lumber, which sells for cash at the saw-pits. These men
+are also preachers, and preach several times each week in the Portuguese
+language. In labor, money and building material they have recently
+completed a new two-story mission-house and other mission improvements,
+amounting to an aggregate cost of $1,200, without any help from home. Men
+who are making money and attending to all their duties as missionaries
+have a legal right, under the Decalogue and Discipline, to a fair
+compensation from their net earnings; but all the missionaries we have
+still abiding in our Angola Missions, go in with the self-sacrificing,
+suffering Jesus under the ‘new Commandment.’ They invest their lives with
+all they possess, including all the money they have or can make in his
+soul-saving work in Africa, and have no separate purse which they call
+their own. If on this line of life they should suffer lack, or bring the
+Lord in debt to them, it would indeed be ‘a new thing under the sun.’</p>
+
+<p>“We have graves at Malange also. Mrs. Dr. Smith, an estimable Christian
+lady, sleeps there. Dear Edna Mead, one of ‘our children’ of 1885, a
+lovely Christian, perhaps of 12 years,
+sleeps<!--662.png--><span class="pagenum">653</span>
+in our own cemetery on
+our mission farm. While I was there last June, we buried a Libolo young
+man&mdash;brought up and saved in our mission&mdash;in our cemetery; and six weeks
+after her marriage, our dear Bertha, our grand missionary Bertha, was
+smitten down and laid there to rest.</p>
+
+<p>“A great many good people in the Church on earth do not believe in my
+missions, but God means that the Church above all shall think well of us:
+hence, he has not taken from us a single dwarfish, shabby specimen, but
+from the beginning has selected from the front ranks of the very best we
+had, so that we are not ashamed of our representative missionaries in
+heaven. Nearly all of our present force in Angola have made a marvelous
+achievement in the mastery of the Portuguese and Kimbundu languages.
+Prof. H. Chatelain has printed them in the form of a grammar, beside a
+primer and the Gospel by John in the Kimbundu. The rest of our people
+there, the same as himself, learned the vernacular by direct and daily
+contact with the natives, but Brother Chatelain’s books are of great
+value to them, both in advance study and in teaching.</p>
+
+<p>“Our <i>Angola Missions</i> were commenced a little over four years ago.
+They have furnished many useful lessons from the school of experience,
+and demonstrated the possibilities of success in the three great
+departments of our work, educational, industrial and evangelical,
+and of early self-sustentation later, absolute self-support and then
+self-propagation&mdash;founding new missions without help from home. Our work
+has to be run mainly along the lines of human impossibilities, combining
+rare human adaptabilities with Divine power and special providences
+under the immediate administration of the Holy Spirit. Hence, our
+greatest difficulty is to find young men and women possessing these
+rare adaptabilities. We have them now in Angola, and also on the Congo
+and west coast, but the sifting at the front required to get them is
+too big a contract for me. I can only do the best I can, and commit
+and intrust all the issues to God. He works out his will patiently and
+kindly. The people he sends home are good Christians, but on account of
+personal disabilities, or family relationship and responsibilities, find
+themselves disqualified for this peculiar style of work and not able to
+make self-support, and hence quietly leave for
+home.<!--663.png--><span class="pagenum">654</span>
+Many of such would
+gladly stay if we would pay them a salary, which we cannot do, though we
+don’t question their natural rights. Thus we lose numbers and gain unity
+and strength.</p>
+
+<p>“From Malange, a tramp of 1,000 miles northeast will bring us to
+Luluaburg, in the Bashalange Country, discovered by Dr. Pogge and Lieut.
+Wissmann, in 1883. The Governor-General of the Independent State of
+Congo, at my request, gave to Dr. Summers, one of our men from Malange,
+permission to found a station for our mission at Luluaburg, which he did,
+and built two houses on it, and was making good progress when he became
+worn out by disease and died. I hope soon to send a successor to dear Dr.
+Summers.</p>
+
+<p>“I have arranged at the land office in Boma for the completion of their
+conveyance of title by deed to our mission property at Luluaburg, on my
+return to Boma in April next (<i>D.V.</i>). Those vast countries of the Upper
+Kasai and Sankuru Rivers are immensely populous. By the will of God we
+shall hold our footing and a few years hence shall (<i>D.V.</i>) plant a
+conference in that county.</p>
+
+<p>“From Luluaburg, a week of foot traveling northwest will bring us to
+Lueba, at the junction of the Lulua and Kasai Rivers. Thence, in a little
+steamer descending the Kasai River about 800 miles, we sweep through
+‘Qua mouth’ into the Congo, descending which seventy miles we will tie
+up at Kimpoko, near the northeast angle of Stanley Pool. We opened this
+station in 1886, designed as a way-station for our transportation to
+the countries of the Upper Kasai. The Lord is by delay preparing us
+the better to go up and possess the land in his set time. He meantime
+approves of our good intentions. We have now stationed at Kimpoko,
+Bradley L. Burr, Dr. Harrison, Hiram Elkins and his wife Roxy. At
+Kimpoko, we made an irrigating ditch a mile long, drawing from a bold
+mountain creek an abundant supply of water to insure good crops at all
+seasons. We have there about ten acres under cultivation, and grow in
+profusion all the indigenous food that we can use. To provide good beef
+in abundance and ready money, Brother Burr goes out for a few hours and
+kills a hippopotamus or two. They are in demand among the traders and
+the natives for food. Brother Burr recently sold three in Kimpoko for
+$80. Brother Burr, who is
+our<!--664.png--><span class="pagenum">655</span>
+Presiding Elder at Kimpoko, writes that
+the station has been nearly self-sustaining from the beginning, but
+entirely so since the beginning of this year. They are building a new
+mission-house this dry season, about 15x80 feet. In this work they may
+require a little help&mdash;a few bales of cloth from home. At a low estimate,
+our property in Kimpoko is worth at least $1,000.</p>
+
+<p>“From Kimpoko we go by oars or steamer twenty miles to the lower end of
+Stanley Pool&mdash;Leopoldville. Thence by foot 100 miles to South Manyanga
+(which is called the North Bank route; by the south route we walk from
+Leopoldville 231 miles to Matadi or Lower Congo). From Manyanga we go
+by a launch of three or four tons capacity, propelled by oars and sails
+and currents, eighty-eight miles to Isangala. We have had a station at
+Isangala for over two years, on which we have built good native houses,
+but had not bought the site of the Government till my last visit to the
+land office at Boma. The site, containing seven and one-half acres, cost
+us nearly $80. A good garden spot. Our brethren dug a yam from their
+garden in Isangala when I was there, a few weeks ago, which weighed
+twenty-two pounds&mdash;more wholesome and delicious, if possible, than Irish
+potatoes. Our paying industry there will be in the transport line of
+business. As our Vivi Station is at the highest point of small steamer
+navigation, so Isangala is the lowest point of the middle passage of
+the Congo from Isangala, eighty-eight miles to Manyanga. Our site at
+Isangala, with improvements, is worth $300. We would refuse the offer of
+five times that amount on account of prospective value.</p>
+
+<p>“Our missionaries at Isangala are Wm. O. White and Wm. Rasmussen. Both
+have made good progress in the mastery of the Fiot or Congo language;
+but Rasmussen is a prodigy in language. He interpreted for me with
+great fluency and force and is preaching in many contiguous villages.
+He has been out two and a half years, and (<i>D.V.</i>) will soon be an able
+envangelist to go forth among the native nations and receive from them
+a support. A journey over the mountains and vales of fifty-five miles
+will bring us to Vivi Mission Station. We bought this site&mdash;the seat of
+government before it was settled at Boma&mdash;over two years ago, for $768.
+We have there but twelve acres of land, but can
+procure<!--665.png--><span class="pagenum">656</span>
+more if needed.
+It is a high plateau and seems so dry that I did not think we could farm
+to advantage. We needed the place for a receiving and transport station;
+but to my agreeable surprise on my recent visit, I find that J. C. Teter,
+our Preacher-in-Charge and transport agent, has near the end of the dry
+season an acre and a half of green growing manioc, an orchard of young
+palm and mango trees, and plantains and yams growing in a profusion of
+life and fruitfulness. In the way of live-stock he has twenty-five goats,
+eight sheep, two head of young cattle, half a dozen muscovy-ducks and 100
+chickens, and when short of meat he takes his gun and goes out and kills
+a deer or a buffalo. While I was with him, a few weeks ago, he killed two
+<i>koko</i> bucks. The koko is a species of deer, but as big as a donkey. So
+in every place we settle, we find that God has resources of self-support
+of some kind waiting to be developed. Vivi will be self-supporting in the
+near future, and the most beautiful station on the Congo. At any rate, J.
+C. Teter and Mary Lindsay, his wife, can make it such if the Lord shall
+continue to them life and health. Probable value, $2,000.</p>
+
+<p>“One hundred miles by steamer down the Congo to Banana brings us within
+an hour and a half by oars of our mission-station at Matumba. Miss
+Mary Kildare, a superior teacher, linguist and missionary, is our sole
+occupant of the station at Matumba. I bought of the Government nearly
+ten acres of good ground there for nearly $120, having previously bought
+the native title. We have a comfortable little house of galvanized iron,
+22x24 feet, set on pillars six feet above ground. The house is divided
+into two rooms, 12x12 feet, and a veranda, 12x124 feet, inclosed by a
+balustrading and a gate, and is used for a school-room. She has now a
+school of twenty scholars. She does her preaching mostly in the village;
+the house is in an inclosure of nearly an acre, surrounded by a high
+fence, with strong gate, which is locked up at 9 P.M. daily. So Mary, the
+dear lady, is perfectly contented, and is doing good work for God. She
+is an Irish lady, and paid her own passage to go to Africa to work for
+nothing. I took her recently a box of Liberian coffee-seed, which she has
+in a nursery growing beautifully, and she has a fruit orchard coming on.</p>
+
+<p>“Our property at Matumba is worth $1,000. Two years ago,
+we<!--666.png--><span class="pagenum">657</span>
+started
+three stations between Vivi and Isangala&mdash;Vumtomby Vivi, Sadi Kabanza and
+Matamba. We built pretty good houses at a total cost of $30, not counting
+our labor. One of the noblest young missionaries we had, John A. Newth,
+of London, sleeps all alone in his station at Sadi Kabanza. Dear Brother
+Newth!&mdash;I was with him much and under a great variety of circumstances,
+and highly prized his lovable character and great versatility of
+practical talent. He loved his field of labor and would have made a
+success if the Master had not called him from labor to reward. This was
+in 1888, but belongs to this chapter of unreported history. The people I
+appointed to work Vumtomby Vivi and Matumba Stations became dissatisfied
+with their work and huddled together at Vivi with others of kindred
+spirit and worked against us.</p>
+
+<p>“‘Then they went out from us, but were not of us; for if they had been of
+us they would no doubt have continued with us,’</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">“‘This is the same old breed,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Of which we read.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I do not think<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">They become extinct,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">But expose them to the weather,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Give them time and tether,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And they leave us altogether,<br /></span>
+<span class="i10">And peace abides.’<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>“Since that, Brother Reed and wife and Brother Bullikist, very good
+people, sent out by Dr. Simpson, of New York, have opened a station
+nearly midway between Vumtomby Vivi and Sadi Kabanza, so when we get
+ready to go out to found new stations we shall prefer, instead of
+resuming work at those vacated, to go into the more populous regions of
+the interior. The Congo State has a strip of country densely populated,
+100 miles from the north bank of the Congo and extending from Banana
+250 miles to Manyanga, all unoccupied and open to us, except a few
+new stations near the Congo. So God is opening a vast field for us on
+the Lower Congo, as well as on the Upper Congo and Kasai. I did not
+set out to found any new stations this year, and have not, except to
+consent to the birth of Ebenezer Station on Sinou River. Our business
+this year was to find out or to put in the guarantees of self-support
+for<!--667.png--><span class="pagenum">658</span>
+each station. We have found out that most of those founded in the
+short period of the work are self-supporting in the main. In our new
+Liberian stations, beside abundance of fruit and vegetables for food, our
+principal or most reliable resource in marketable value is coffee. So I
+provided, before leaving Liberia last April, that every station having
+men who can utilize oxen and plow, should be furnished with a plow and a
+yoke of cattle and that every occupied station should be supplied with as
+many coffee scions as they can plant and cultivate up to 1,000 plants for
+each station and provided each station with a bushel of coffee-seed to be
+planted in nursery, from which to enlarge each coffee orchard as fast as
+the ground can be cleared and the coffee scions set out up to 5,000 or
+6,000 trees. Coffee means money, and it is only a question of industry,
+patience and time. It requires about five years to make a coffee orchard
+productive, but with a little attention it will yield a plentiful annual
+crop&mdash;two crops in Liberia&mdash;for fifty years without resetting. We ought
+to give all the stations a good start in cattle, (say) a dozen head for
+each one. God is manifestly with us along the lines of our work, and
+success is certain, and the glory will be wholly his.</p>
+
+<p>“The teaching force of all the facts in the case, as we now see them,
+leads us clearly to the conclusion that we need our steamer on the Lower
+Congo much more than on the Upper. So, the Lord permitting, we will put
+her together at the base of the hill on which Vivi Mission is located,
+during the next dry season. She will carry goods from the side of ocean
+steamers at Banana 100 miles up to her berth, in the mouth of a little
+creek in which she will be constructed, the highest point of steamer
+navigation. This will save us exorbitant rates of freight up the river
+and land our goods where we want them, and give other missions a chance
+to reduce their heavy leakage of the same sort. The price for carrying to
+Stanley Pool is twice as large now as two years ago. We can’t pay such
+prices and found the stations in the Upper Kasai. That we feel (<i>D.V.</i>)
+bound to do; but with our steamer on the Lower Congo and a steel boat of
+our own, of three or four tons, to be worked by oars and sails on the
+middle passage, to carry freights from Isangala to Manyanga, will give us
+the inside track of the freight business to those upper countries, and
+cut down our expenses more than a
+half<!--668.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_659" id="Page_659">659</a></span>
+of the present rate, and do work
+for other missions as well. Except in leadership and superintendency, all
+this heavy work will be done by natives, whom we wish to employ and train
+to habits of industry&mdash;one of the auxiliaries of our mission work.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_659.jpg" width="600" height="575"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">STEAM WAGONS FOR HAULING AT VIVI.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>“The steamers on the Upper Congo water-ways have multiplied from four
+or five to a dozen in the past three years, so that we can get passage
+for the few missionaries we want to put in to hold our Kasai pre-emption
+claim till we can work up from our lease, and by and by send up a small
+steamer of our own for our enlarged Kasai work. I am on my way now to
+make final arrangements with the builder of our steamer to put her up
+and launch her at the earliest practicable moment, and will, the Lord
+permitting, be back
+to<!--669.png--><span class="pagenum">660</span>
+Liberia in December. I will ask Richard Grant to
+furnish a statement of the total expenditures.</p>
+
+<p>“In regard to appropriations, I remark: (1) That if the Committee wish to
+enlarge the appropriation to the African (Liberia) Conference, I make no
+objection, but I ask at least for the continuance of the usual amount of
+$2,500, sent altogether as it was last year, and have the distribution at
+Conference for the whole year.</p>
+
+<p>“(2) If the Committee are pleased to order $500 subject to my call, all
+right. I did not draw it last year, because I had not time to use it for
+the purpose I had in mind.</p>
+
+<p>“(3) If the Committee will appropriate $10,000 or $5,000 for the
+establishment of self-supporting schools for the principal countries of
+Liberian population, for the education alike of the Liberian and the
+heathen children, I will administer it as carefully as possible and
+report progress. It would take five or six years to grow marketable
+values adequate to self-support, but quantities of food can be produced
+from the first or second year.&mdash;October 4, 1889.”</p>
+
+<p>Writing in June 1889, Bishop Taylor speaks as follows concerning his
+Angola Missions:</p>
+
+<div class="center">MARCH FROM DONDO TO NHANGUEPEPO.</div>
+
+<div class="right">“<span class="smcap">Nhanguepepo</span>, Monday, June 3, 1889.</div>
+
+<p>“I left Dondo last Thursday morning. Brother Withey walked with me about
+a mile. Four carriers&mdash;who brought cargoes from Nhanguepepo, arriving in
+Dondo on Tuesday, and taking a day for rest&mdash;were ready to start on their
+return trip on Thursday. I employed two of them, one to carry my bed and
+the other my food, and half a cargo for Brother Withey. We spent the
+first night at Mutamba, thirteen miles out, stopping about eight miles
+out for lunch, and four hours of rest.</p>
+
+<p>“Four years ago, after waiting four or five days in Dondo trying in vain
+to get carriers, we depended on half-a-dozen Kabindas, whom we hired in
+Loanda, on good recommendations, as a standby in case we should fail.
+We were repeatedly told by men of long experience in Angola, that ‘it
+would be impossible for us, as strangers, especially as we would neither
+drink nor sell, nor
+give<!--670.png--><span class="pagenum">661</span>
+rum, gin nor wine, to get any carriers for the
+interior.’ ‘The traders, with their long and widely extended experience,
+facilities and free rations of grog, can’t get more than half the
+carriers required at this time.’ ‘One gentleman of my acquaintance,’
+said, ‘I had 5,000 bags of coffee at Kazengo, thirty-six miles from
+Dondo, and could not put it into the market for want of carriers.’</p>
+
+<p>“So, a part of our pioneer party, viz: myself, Willie Mead, W. P. Dodson,
+Joseph Wilks, Henry Kelley, the Vey boy from Liberia, determined to make
+a start on Friday night (about June 1, 1885,) even if we should have to
+do our own carrying, for the Kabindas whom he had hired refused to carry
+for us; and they had a lot of their own luggage, twice as much as regular
+carriers take with them.</p>
+
+<p>“I learned from an old trader, who had thirty years of observation along
+our contemplated line of work in Angola, that Nhanguepepo was the best
+site for a mission between Dondo and Pungo Andongo. So we aimed to reach
+this first and best place. About 9 o’clock, on that night, we succeeded
+in getting six Kabindas to shoulder each a load of our luggage and food
+for the trip, leaving one Kabinda with Dr. Summers and C. M. McLean, in
+care of a large amount of our stuff at Dondo, stored in our tents, inside
+of a stone wall enclosure, said to have been a slave pen in the dark days
+of old. I and my little party of missionaries each took a load of stuff,
+and struggled up the mountain range four miles to Pambos, arriving about
+midnight. We spread our bed on the ground and got a little sleep. Before
+sunrise I had carried wood and made a fire, and had on the tea-kettle.
+The Kabindas looked grimly on, but declined to help with the camp work.
+Breakfast over, we made a move for our march, but the K.’s refused to
+pick up their loads. All my kind talk, and Brother M.’s scolding, failed
+to move them, so we ‘were stuck in the mud.’ We got the men through the
+English house in Loanda, and about 9 P.M. I saw Mr. N., the head of the
+English house, coming in his ‘tipoia,’ carried by men from his farm at
+Kazengo. So I went a little way from our camp, and met him, and explained
+to him the situation.</p>
+
+<p>“He said: ‘The trouble is the Kabindas are not carriers. They are sailors
+and porters and gentlemen’s servants. They were
+represented<!--671.png--><span class="pagenum">662</span>
+to you as
+good for any service to which you might want to put them, but they have
+not been trained to work of this sort.’</p>
+
+<p>“I replied: ‘Well, Mr. N., if you can prevail on the fellows to carry
+till we can reach an interior village we can pick up all the carriers we
+need.’</p>
+
+<p>“‘Yes; I’ll try.’ He had a palaver with the men, and they agreed to carry
+till we could find natives who would do it. Then we cleared the camp and
+marched about four miles, and stopped at a small hamlet for our lunch,
+and there we hired half-a-dozen men to carry the loads of the K.’s to
+Nhanguepepo, and we transferred our knapsack to the K.’s.</p>
+
+<p>“The price quoted in Dondo for carriers to Nhangue was ‘sixty-four
+makutas’ ($1.92) per man. We offered that, but could not get a man.
+The price asked by these country fellows was but ‘twenty-five makutas’
+(seventy-five cents), confirming the theory I had advanced, ‘If we can
+get to the country villages inland, we can get all the carriers we may
+require.’ So with our new team we went on about five miles and camped
+at Mutamba, and rested on the Sabbath. Many villagers called to see the
+show, the sight of white men, and exhibited great interest in us. We had
+our worship and a good day of rest. On Monday morning the K.’s refused to
+carry unless we would hire another carrier, which we did, and soon found
+that they overloaded the carriers by tying their luggage to our cargoes.
+We could not speak their language, and they knew but little of ours, so
+it was of no avail to try to reason with them about their oppressions;
+but soon after I reached Nhanguepepo, I settled with them, and sent them
+back to the sea where they belonged.</p>
+
+<p>“On my trip last week I had no trouble with carriers. I started from
+Mutamba at 6 A.M., walked twelve miles to Kasoki, took lunch and rested
+till 2.30 P.M.; marched seven miles further to Ndanji a Menia on the
+divide of a range of mountains, and camped without a tent, just where we
+pitched our tent four years ago, and I was reminded of the trouble we
+then had with our carriers. The villagers we had hired complained of the
+bad treatment they had received from the Kabindas, besides overloading
+them with their luggage, and refused, to go any further. I quietly
+offered to give them
+extra<!--672.png--><span class="pagenum">663</span>
+pay, and thus induced them to proceed with
+their big load to Nhanguepepo.</p>
+
+<p>“I had a refreshing sleep at Ndanji a Menia last Friday night, took lunch
+on Saturday at Endumba, and reached Nhangue&mdash;nineteen miles&mdash;at 5 P.M.,
+and was joyously received by our dear Brother Rudolph.</p>
+
+<p>“I have tramped the fifty-one miles between this and Dondo, back and
+forth many times, but never with less fatigue than on my trip last week.
+I don’t purpose to give a history of all those journeys through the
+mountains, but simply note a few points of contrast between my first
+trip, and the one of last week. We arrived in the midst of drought and
+‘famine’ four years ago. We came through from Dondo dry-shod, but last
+Friday I doffed my boots and waded the pools and streams seven times, and
+on Saturday five times, and I found it to be pleasant and healthful to my
+feet.</p>
+
+<p>“Till railroads shall be built through this country, the best mode of
+traveling, and the most healthful, is to walk, and ‘wade.’ As for speed
+in a journey of a few hundred miles, a man on foot will out-travel a
+bull, or even a good horse. Persons who travel in a ‘tipoia,’ amid the
+rattle of sleigh bells, and the shouts of their carriers, are not in a
+position to receive my statement, but I base it, not on a theory, but on
+facts from the field of action.</p>
+
+<p>“When we were here four years ago, we lived in tents near the Caravansary
+for about three months. We had been invited by the Governor-General,
+Sr. Amaral, to settle on Government land wherever we chose, and the
+Government would make us a grant of any amount required up to 2,400
+acres. Having explored the Nhanguepepo region pretty thoroughly, we
+concluded that the Lord would have us open a mission here. Our families
+and a number of our young men were waiting&mdash;in Loanda at a heavy
+expense&mdash;for us to open fields for them; and the dry season was passing
+away, so we had to proceed as expeditiously as possible.</p>
+
+<p>“I opened a mortar bed for making adobes (sun-dried brick) preparatory
+to the erection of a mission house near the Caravansary, where crowds of
+carriers, many of whom were from a distance of five or six hundred miles
+east of us, camped every night. Having made inquiry I believed the site I
+had selected was Government land,
+but<!--673.png--><span class="pagenum">664</span>
+was notified by the “Commandante,”
+before I had proceeded with my adobe-making, that all the land about the
+Caravansary was private property. He was very kind to us, but wanted
+to sell us the house in which he lived, a roomy, substantial building,
+with adjoining roofless walls of solid masonry of much larger extent. I
+saw on examination that the property would be suitable for our purposes
+of residence for our large families, and for a receiving and training
+station for new recruits from home in coming time, being a high, breezy,
+healthful region; but we had no money. However, firmly believing that the
+God of Abraham would lead us, and provide for us, I wrote to our people
+in Loanda to come on as quickly as they could. Owing to the continued
+illness of a large proportion of them, and the difficulty and delay in
+getting steamer passage up the Coanza on account of the drought and low
+state of the river, our people came in groups in July and August. I was
+notified at the time of their transit that our money in Loanda was all
+used up. As strangers, we could not ask for ‘credit,’ and as servants
+of God, doing business solely for Him, and not for ourselves, I did not
+think it necessary, nor feel at liberty to try to put His credit on the
+market, so I worked and waited.</p>
+
+<p>“My people could not travel inland without money to pay their carriers,
+and we had no place in which to shelter them, even if they could get in.
+Our cloth was all of one kind&mdash;white cotton, which became popular and
+marketable months later, but at that time was declared to be entirely
+unsuitable for the market, and hence could not be passed off at any
+price. Money was the thing required, and without it our people in transit
+could neither travel beyond Dondo, nor stop and pay expenses. I did not
+doubt that I was working in the order of God’s providence, hence could
+not and did not doubt that He would lead us, and provide for these
+demands on us, outside of our abundant home supplies which He had already
+provided. The fact is, I brought into the country, in money, only the
+small sum of about $1,200, and $1,000 of that had been handed to me by
+dear Brother Critchlow to meet ’emergencies’ in Loanda. Heavy duties,
+house-rent for forty persons with high rates for wood, water, etc., soon
+swallowed that amount. But just in
+our<!--674.png--><span class="pagenum">665</span>
+extremity, Mr. J. T., a Church of
+England man in the City of London, gave us &pound;250&mdash;over $1,200.</p>
+
+<p>“The Lord thus tided us over that bar. So in our extremity of need, as
+before described, the God of ‘the Church of England’ as well as of our
+own, through His servant J. T. of London, gave us &pound;250 more. With that
+we bought the Nhanguepepo property of the Commandante, and settled our
+people here, also at Pungo Andongo, and Malange.</p>
+
+<p>“I proposed that our Nhangue Station should bear the name of our London
+brother, but when I spoke to him about it, he replied, ‘No, Bishop
+Taylor, no! that is an honor I do not deserve. I live at home in comfort.
+Call it after somebody who has suffered and done something for God among
+the heathen.’</p>
+
+<p>“All the members of the families, and young men appointed to Nhanguepepo
+four years ago, are still at the front making a record for God and
+heaven, save Nellie and Edna Mead, who have gone to represent us in the
+home country of our King. Brother Carl Rudolph, however, is the only one
+who remains at Nhangue, and is at present in sole charge of the station,
+and is breaking in native workers, and is likely to make this a training
+station of native, rather than an American agency. If such should turn
+out to be in the line of God’s wisdom, and gracious leading, all the
+better. These are acclimatized, know the languages, and the life of
+the people, and have many advantages over foreign agency. The foreign
+missionary is sent by the Holy Spirit ‘to prepare the way of the Lord,’
+but the sooner he can train and trust the native-born men and women whom
+God shall call to be heralds and witnesses of the truth, the better.</p>
+
+<p>“The station buildings that were in good repair when we took possession,
+remain so; some portions not entirely furnished with ant-proof rafters,
+need repairs. Many of the walled rooms have been roofed and utilized.</p>
+
+<p>“A walled room we have, 18x40 feet, would answer for a chapel and
+school-room. We hope to have it covered and fitted up this dry season.
+We are also building this season a new stone wall around our corral, and
+must have a shed for milking the cows.</p>
+
+<p>“A new house, 18x40 feet, of adobe bricks, has been put up
+near<!--675.png--><span class="pagenum">666</span>
+our main
+building, and a farm house of adobe brick, 20x40 feet, a mile distant, at
+the mission farm.</p>
+
+<p>“A great deal of material work has thus been done in the four years.
+I provided for putting in a herd of cattle here before I left, nearly
+four years ago. The herd increased and went up to a total of 144 head,
+including calves. To protect them from thieves and from wolves they have
+to be carefully guarded by two boys by day and secured within heavy stone
+walls by night. One night, about two years ago, the herd got out of the
+‘corral’ and went to their grazing ground, and a pack of wolves killed
+and partly devoured one of the cows. Later, a couple of wolves managed to
+get hold of a calf that seemed to have laid near the gate. Some natives
+heard their barking and raised an alarm, which frightened the wolves
+away. Brothers Withey and Rudolph went out with a light, and found the
+calf outside the gate, and one of its legs broken. It appeared to have
+been dragged through an opening in the gate, caused by a broken bar, and
+thus got its leg broken. It was midnight, but Brother Rudolph at once
+slaughtered and dressed the calf for food. Meantime he preached to the
+crowd of natives thus drawn together about the devil-wolves which were in
+pursuit of them, and said their only refuge is in the fold of Jesus; that
+they should not go outside, nor lie down to sleep too near the gate.</p>
+
+<p>“The crowding together of so large a herd of cattle proved to be
+unwholesome for them, especially in the wet season, when they could not
+keep the corral clean. Many of them became afflicted with an itchy,
+festering skin disease, though otherwise healthy and fat. Such were
+separated from the main herd to prevent possible contagion, and were
+gradually slaughtered and used to meet the demand for beef, fresh or
+dried; others proved to be ‘lean kine,’ which greatly ran down in weight
+during the dry season, when the grass was short; some milk cows were poor
+in the quantity and quality of their milk; others would not yield to kind
+treatment; all these varieties, noted as unprofitable stock to keep, were
+sold or slaughtered, so that now of ‘the survival of the fittest’ we have
+left a herd of eighty-four head, including calves; beside selected seed
+for a herd at our Pungo Andongo Mission, which now numbers twenty head,
+old and young.</p>
+
+<p><!--676.png--><span class="pagenum">667</span></p>
+
+<p>“Brothers Withey and Gordon were both merchants for years at home;
+hence very proficient in that line, but not so well adapted to farming
+or mechanics; so the Lord is giving them success in establishing a
+<i>commercial business</i>, both at Nhanguepepo, and at Pungo Andongo. It was
+contemplated from the start that when such men should be put down by the
+Lord in a good place, and shall so be led by His Spirit and Providence,
+that trading posts should constitute one branch of our school industries.
+These give ample support now to the two stations named, but are still
+assisted from home in taxes, repairs and new additions to church
+properties.</p>
+
+<p>“The foundation industry, however, is farming, fruit, coffee-growing,
+etc., (1) because of its intrinsic value, present and future. (2) That
+we may thus train boys and girls for industrial pursuits, by which,
+when grown, they may secure good homes of their own and form Christian
+communities as a basis of self-supporting churches and schools.</p>
+
+<p>“The soil of Nhangue is abundant, rich and ready for the plow, but thus
+far, owing to the great attention given to building, to the stock,
+and to merchandizing, and the departure of so many who ran well for a
+season, our farming interest has suffered; but Brother Rudolph will
+give the farming and industrial school-boys and girls to help and to be
+helped, a fair trial, as soon as we supply him with an assistant, and,
+by the blessing of God, he will, I am sure, make a success which will
+demonstrate grand possibilities on that line. This is essential, even if
+the stores should far exceed absolute self-support, which they will do if
+kept solely in charge of such men as we have named; but all the boys we
+train can’t be merchants. The school work commenced with promise nearly
+four years ago, has not made decided progress, for the same reasons named
+in regard to farming, but good results are manifest from the educational
+work, especially in some of the boys trained by our good brother, Wm. P.
+Dodson, who give evidence of their genuine conversion to God. In spite of
+all discouragements, which, among ourselves, have not been small nor few,
+God is at the front and will lead all who abide there with Him to early
+and glorious successes on all the lines of our movement, especially in
+the salvation of the heathen
+around<!--677.png--><span class="pagenum">668</span>
+us. I am so assured of this that I
+am praising Him now for the coming work of salvation among the heathen.
+Glory to God! Glory to God! <span class="smcap">Wm. Taylor</span>.”</p>
+
+<div class="center">NHANGUEPEPO.</div>
+
+<p>“Arrived in Nhanguepepo by a walk of fifty-one miles from Dondo, on
+Saturday, June 1, 1889. At present we have but one missionary on this
+station, Brother Carl Rudolph, but he is doing the work of two or three
+by breaking in the native boys. He has a self-supporting store of
+varieties, a large herd of cattle, is building a stone wall for enlarged
+corral for the cattle, teaching and preaching daily, and preparing to put
+in a large crop of corn, beans, manioc, sweet potatoes, sugar cane, etc.</p>
+
+<p>“This was designed for a receiving and training station for our newly
+arriving recruits from America, but instead it has become a training
+station for native boys who are acclimatized, who know the language
+of the country and the life of the people, and have many points of
+adaptability which a foreigner must spend years to acquire, and meantime
+is likely to get sick&mdash;home sick, and skip out. Yet native agency can’t
+be trained without competent men of God to train them. God has developed
+such from our first force whom we settled in Angola four years ago, who
+will do a wonderful and widely extended work, even if no more should
+come. If we can get more from home, who, like these, will stick, and
+do and die for Jesus in Africa, well; but otherwise, Angola, already
+self-supporting, except some help in repairing and enlarging our mission
+properties, will be worked by our present force of Americans and the
+natives themselves. We have the nucleus of a Methodist Episcopal Church
+in Nhanguepepo, now consisting of half-a-dozen saved boys, and others are
+seeking.</p>
+
+<p>“On Sabbath, the 2d inst., I was late in rising from bed, just off a
+journey; indeed, I wished, at any rate, to spend part of the day in
+Sabbatic rest in that way. But, I was going to say, as I lay in bed,
+a blind man, whom I met here four years ago, came to see me. He is a
+native of Dondo, and learned there to read and write in Portuguese, and
+speaks that language as well as his own Kimbundu,
+but<!--678.png--><span class="pagenum">669</span>
+for years he has
+been blind, and lives alone in a hut not far from our house. His name is
+Esessah. He expressed great pleasure in meeting me again, and Brother
+Rudolph gave him a seat by my bedside, and sat down near him. After the
+compliments of the occasion I said to myself: ‘This is my chance for
+Sunday morning preaching, which has been the habit of my life for the
+last forty-seven years. If the Holy Spirit will use me this morning we
+can get this poor man saved. He has groped in the dark a long time; to
+walk in the light for the remaining time of his pilgrimage, and then
+leap into the joyous brightness of eternal day, will be a blessed gain
+for this poor man.’ So I said: ‘Brother Ruldolph, I want to preach to
+this man, and have you put it in plain Portuguese or Kimbundu.’ Brother
+Carl is perfect in love to God and man, and his whole soul and life are
+devoted to such work, and he is well up in those languages. So I gave him
+my <i>Gospel Short Cut</i> to the mind, conscience and heart of the heathen.
+The Spirit of God put Divine electric fire into it, which broke us down
+with weeping again and again. At the close of the discourse, the three of
+us went on our knees. I was led to pray that the Divine Spirit would make
+his repentance so deep and expressive, and his conversion to God so clear
+and distinctive, as to leave no ground for doubt in his mind, nor ours,
+and which would give point and force to his testimony to his heathen
+neighbors. So I and Carl led in prayer, then the blind heathen broke out
+in audible prayer, and wept, prayed and wept, till finally he submitted
+to treatment and <i>received</i> the Lord Jesus, the Great Physician, and was
+straightway pardoned and healed, and gave a clear testimony to the facts
+in his case.</p>
+
+<p>“We did not call to see him on Monday. I thought it was well to leave him
+alone with God for a season, but on Tuesday, yesterday, Brother Carl and
+I went to his hut, and he received us joyfully. He is not at all a noisy
+man, but courteous, unobtrusive and very sensible, and in low, distinct
+articulation, he is a fluent talker. We had a long teaching talk with
+him, and heard his most clear and distinct testimony to the saving power
+of God in his head and heart. I led in vocal prayer, Carl followed and
+then Esessah prayed intelligently and earnestly. As we were leaving, Carl
+and he embraced each other and wept, and held each other and wept
+on<!--679.png--><span class="pagenum">670</span>
+for
+some time: meantime, I was waiting in the path, and tearfully thanking
+God for such a sight in the midst of heathendom. Glory to God! The big
+rain drops are falling on us. A thunder-gust of glory will sweep through
+these mountains, soon followed by the regular ‘former and latter rains’
+in this season. Glory to God! My eyes shall not dim much with age till I
+shall see these things. Let all the people who have been praying for us,
+praise God for the glory to be revealed. <span class="smcap">Wm. Taylor</span>.”</p>
+
+<div class="center">FROM NHANGUEPEPO TO PUNGO ANDONGO.</div>
+
+<p>“Thursday, June 6, 1889.&mdash;I left Nhangue at 6.30 this morning, with my
+two carriers, whom I seldom see on the path, being usually ahead of
+them. Two miles out I called to see the Assistant Commandante. He and
+the Commandante called to see me the other day, and of course I returned
+their call. A Commandante, appointed by the Portuguese Provincial
+Government, has charge of a detachment of soldiers, and is also a
+magistrate of a certain district of the Province. Some of them are
+Portuguese. The others, probably the larger proportion, are Africans,
+who have had some advantages of education. They have been courteous and
+kind to me and to my missionaries almost invariably, and we reciprocate
+cordially.</p>
+
+<p>“Three miles on my way I called to pay my respects to Sr. Jacintho,
+a Portuguese trader, whom we used to call ‘the honeyman,’ because he
+occasionally, when we were strangers in a strange land, presented us with
+a bottle of honey to sweeten us up a bit. We bought of him some of our
+best cattle in starting to form our herd.</p>
+
+<p>“In the forenoon I walked fourteen miles to Sangue. On my first trip over
+this path, to settle Joseph Wilks in Pungo Andongo, we spent a night at
+the house of the Commandante at Sangue.</p>
+
+<p>“I had been overworked at Nhangue, and was not in good condition for
+walking that day, and, on reaching Sangue, soon found a corduroy bedstead
+in a private room, and laid me down to rest. I heard Brother Wilks say to
+our host, “Bispo doente, muito doente”&mdash;Bishop sick, very sick. I said to
+myself: “If my kind
+Father<!--680.png--><span class="pagenum">671</span>
+will give me a refreshing night’s rest across
+these rough irregular poles, we will see before to-morrow night who will
+be the delicate brother.”</p>
+
+<p>“In due time our host sent me a basin of delicious native soup, which
+refreshed me very much, and though I spent much of the night in turning
+over, I slept well in the intervals, and was up with the day-dawn and
+ready for a march of twenty-four miles. We waded through long reaches of
+sand in the path, which made wearisome walking for us. Wilks was good for
+a long pull, but he had no more to say about “Bisbo doente,” as the walk
+that day put him up for all he could do to keep up, and to hold out till
+we reached Pungo Andongo, a little before sunset. We were kindly received
+and entertained at the trading ‘factory’ of Sanza Laurie &amp; Co.</p>
+
+<p>“Marcus Zagury, a member of this firm, had visited us at Nhangue a few
+days before, and gave us full information and encouragement in regard to
+Pungo Andongo, as the place for planting a mission, and tendered us the
+hospitality of their house. The evening of our arrival had been set for
+an entertainment&mdash;a big dinner&mdash;for the Government officials and traders
+of the town at this house; so we made somewhat the acquaintance of those
+gentlemen, also of a Catholic priest, who was an East Indian. All spoke
+encouraging words to us, but of course did not engage to paddle our canoe
+for us. Next day we rented from Sr. Zagury, at a cheap rate, a pretty
+good house for a school and for residence of the mission family, and I
+left Brother Wilks in charge and returned to Nhangue.</p>
+
+<p>“These are some of the remembrances that crowd on me today, as I lay
+down on the leaves for noon rest and lunch at Sangue. In the afternoon
+of to-day I walked nine miles further to ‘Queongwa’ (Kaongwa), not a
+town, but a camping-ground for carriers and travelers, and a house for
+upper-class natives, with some villages contiguous and a running stream
+of water the year round, which is of great utility in this country.
+Brother Withy, our Superintendent, has bought a sight here for planting a
+mission school for the towns of this vicinity.</p>
+
+<p>“A resident here, who has always shown kindness to my
+missionaries,<!--681.png--><span class="pagenum">672</span>
+Sr. Candanga, met me in the path and gave me a welcome to his house of
+‘wattle and daub.’ It is 60x18 feet, divides into two large end rooms and
+a central hall.</p>
+
+<p>“One of these seemed to be reserved for strangers, furnished with a
+table, two or three chairs, and a European double bedstead with mattress
+and spread, which he put at my disposal. I had a good portable bed which
+I preferred to any other, but to honor his hospitality I spread my
+bedding on his bedstead and enjoyed a night of balmy sleep.</p>
+
+<p>“I had walked twenty-three miles during the day, waded the waters eight
+times, and verified the truth&mdash;the ‘rest of a laboring man is sweet.’</p>
+
+<p>“On Friday, June 7th, I was up at peep ‘o day, rolled up my bedding, took
+my lunch in my hand, and was on the path long before the sunshine struck
+the tops of the mountains, and walked to Pungo, about fourteen miles
+distant, by 11 A.M.</p>
+
+<p>“My second tramp over this path was in company with Sister Wilks and
+Agnes, in August, 1889, on their way to join Brother Wilks at Pungo. Such
+was the immense avoirdupois of Sister W. that at Dondo we spent a week in
+trying to get carriers to take her thence to Nhangue. All our men travel
+on foot, but the ladies are carried by a couple of strong men&mdash;two also
+as alternates&mdash;in a hammock suspended from a long pole. We could find no
+carriers for her at Nhangue, so she walked fourteen miles to Sangue. On
+the way that day, we met Brother Wilks coming to meet wife and daughter.
+Agnes was carried and took a fever; the mother walking, and perspiring
+freely and sluicing the sewerage of her system, was in no danger of
+fever. When we reached Sangue, I hired a native to get four strong men
+to carry her next day to Pungo. He succeeded, but it was 8 A.M. before
+we could get them on to the path. We stopped at Queongwa for lunch. At 2
+P.M., when we were ready and anxious to proceed on our journey, we found
+our carriers had just hung on the pot for boiling their breakfast. It was
+Saturday, and fourteen weary miles between us and Pongo, so Brother Wilks
+ordered them to their burdens: ‘No time now for cooking. You should have
+done that an hour ago, and we can’t wait any longer. We must be off now.’
+The carriers replied: ‘We
+can’t<!--682.png--><span class="pagenum">673</span>
+go any further to-day; we will camp
+right here, and rest till tomorrow.’</p>
+
+<p>“I waited till their temper abated, and went to them, and said: ‘You have
+had a heavy load, boys, and I know you must be very tired and hungry; so,
+cook away, and eat a good breakfast, and then come on. I and this lady
+whom you have engaged to carry through to Pungo Andongo to-day, will walk
+on till you overtake us,’ Then without waiting for a reply, we took the
+path, and in about an hour afterward they overtook us and shouldered the
+‘mulker grande’&mdash;woman large&mdash;and struggled on. We reached the mission
+house about 10 P.M., when the poor fellows were relieved of a heavy load
+from their shoulders, and I from my mind.</p>
+
+<p>“On this day, June 7, 1889, when about a mile short of our mission house
+in Pungo, I was met by Bertie Withey, a wholly consecrated lad of sixteen
+and one half years. He was a boy of twelve when he, with his parents
+and three sisters younger than himself, enlisted for this work. These
+children, like their parents, walk humbly before God on the line of
+supreme loyalty and love. They are well up in the use of the Portuguese
+language, and in the Kimbundu. The native people here bear the name of
+‘Umbunda’ plural, Mubunda singular. Kimbundu with them means language. So
+with them it would be tautology to say Kimbundu language.</p>
+
+<p>“Our missionary occupants here at present are Chas. W. Gordon, Sister
+Withey, Bertie, Lottie and Flossie; the eldest sister, Stella, being with
+her father at Dondo. Sister Withey is quite unwell just now. She has
+passed through the fiery ordeal of bilious fever in this country a number
+of times, but lives in the light and love of holiness, and carries no
+anxious care of any sort a bit longer than the casting of ‘all her cares
+on Jesus who careth for her.’ Her husband and she came to this work under
+a conscious call from God, and consecrated themselves and their children
+to it for life. One of the stipulations was that, if either should be
+struck down by the hand of Death, the other should remain in the work and
+train the children to stick to it to the end of their lives.</p>
+
+<p>“Now, while I write I hear Lottie and Flossie quietly conversing with
+each other in the Kimbundu, seemingly oblivious of the English language.</p>
+
+<p><!--683.png--><span class="pagenum">674</span></p>
+
+<p>“Brother Gordon is one of the forty who came with me four years and
+four months ago. He is slender but symmetrical in his build, blue eyes,
+pleasant countenance, gentle and courteous, firmly adhering to the
+principles of truth and righteousness. He was rather delicate in health
+at first, but has grown strong and healthy by all sorts of hard work in
+the radius of our mission industries. He has a clear head, is a good
+school-teacher, a good wayside preacher of the Gospel to a crowd, or to
+one poor native, or to any dignitary of the Provincial Government, and
+walks in love, perfect love to God, and is in profound sympathy with
+men. Brother Withey and he, from years of experience in Massachusetts,
+are our trained merchants. With the surplus of their earnings, in that
+line during the past year, above self-support of this station, they
+have bought and paid for the new mission property, before mentioned, at
+Queongwa, and a mission farm of probably three hundred acres of good
+land, bounded on one side by an ever-running stream of water, with many
+valuable fruit trees and a substantial adobe house, 55x18 feet, divided
+into three rooms. They are this dry season putting on a new roof, and
+will put the whole premises under good repair. This is the industrial
+school farm of the Pungo Andongo mission, and is sixty yards short of a
+mile west of it.</p>
+
+<p>“In competent hands, suitably located, a store, like the one here,
+constitutes an important <i>branch of our industries</i>. Conducted, as it
+is, on strict principles of truth and honesty, it sheds light into the
+commercial sphere of this country, and brings our missionary traders
+into personal contact with native carriers and merchants from a radius
+east and south, covering the countries of the Lundas, Kiokos, Bilundas,
+Libolas and still others, 500 or 600 miles distant from this place.</p>
+
+<p>“The traders are of different European nationalities, and, in the main,
+are smooth and gentlemanly in their bearing toward their neighbors, and
+we always get on pleasantly with them; but they are free to say our
+‘principles are entirely impracticable in this country and can’t succeed.’</p>
+
+<p>“The popular method of business here is: On the arrival of a caravan,
+laden with rubber, beeswax, ivory, etc., (1) to serve its traders and
+carriers with free rations of rum; (2) free rations
+of<!--685.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_676" id="Page_676">676</a></span>
+food. With that
+they usually pass the first night in a large, well-covered shed built
+for their accommodation. Camp-fires, cooking, eating and drinking is
+the order in every direction. After the feasting, comes the dancing,
+with clapping of hands, and singing and shouting at the top of their
+stentorian voices. This is kept up through most of the night. (3)
+From the traders further, a free distribution of cheap fancy goods,
+dressing up the head men of the caravan in broadcloth coats and pants,
+highly-colored silk sashes and umbrellas, and in a display of these, with
+music, they march through the town and back to the camp.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_675.jpg" width="600" height="361"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">REED DANCE BY MOONLIGHT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>“Then (4) comes the weighing of the rubber, wax, ivory, etc., and payment
+in cloth of various kinds and colors, flint-lock guns, powder, beads,
+knives and fancy goods in variety, and rum in huge bottles encased in
+willow wicker-work. In the ‘Mohamba’ of the carriers&mdash;a kind of long
+basket&mdash;five of these demijohns are placed, weighing from seventy to
+eighty pounds, to be carried often 500 or 600 miles.</p>
+
+<p>“(5) ‘The dispatch,’ just before the departure of the caravan, which
+consists of throwing out into the crowd, caps, hats and toys in variety
+for a grab game of the carriers. I once saw two fellows grab a cap, who
+pulled and hauled and quarreled till a third fellow ran up with his knife
+and cut the cap in two, and stopt the strife.</p>
+
+<p>“Our Christian traders provide some accommodations for shelter and
+comfort for native carriers and traders. Those who come for the first
+time call for rum.</p>
+
+<p>“‘We don’t sell rum; don’t use, nor keep it in the store.’ Some fellows
+here, the other day, disputed Brother Gordon’s statement, saying, ‘Don’t
+I see it there,’ pointing to some cans of kerosene.</p>
+
+<p>“‘Well, do you want to try some of that?’</p>
+
+<p>“‘Yes; that is what we want.’</p>
+
+<p>“So he drew some and passed it to them, saying, ‘Now, you had better put
+it to your nose first.’ One or two of them smelled it, and passed it back
+with a look of surprise and horror.</p>
+
+<p>“‘Well, we want some tobacco.’</p>
+
+<p>“‘We don’t use tobacco; don’t sell it; don’t keep it to sell.’</p>
+
+<p>“‘Do you want to buy rubber?’</p>
+
+<p>“‘Yes, I am ready to buy your rubber,’</p>
+
+<p><!--686.png--><span class="pagenum">677</span></p>
+
+<p>“‘What will you give us in exchange for our rubber?’</p>
+
+<p>“‘I will give you money, if you like; or give you cloth, rice, fish,
+sugar, soap, anything you want, except rum, tobacco, beads and
+trinkets&mdash;such things as can do you no good. We sell nothing but what
+will be useful to you.’</p>
+
+<p>“‘How much you give us for our rubber?’</p>
+
+<p>“‘When I examine to see its quality I will show you whatever you want,
+and how much I will give you for each ‘arroba’ (thirty-two pounds). We
+give you no ‘matebeesh’&mdash;gifts&mdash;like other traders, and can afford to
+give you a good price for your rubber. If you, then, think that you can
+do better elsewhere, you can take your rubber away to the best market you
+can find. We want you to do the best you can for yourselves; remember,
+the men who give you things so freely, cannot afford to do it out of
+their own pockets; they must therefore take it out of you in their prices
+of purchase or sale.’</p>
+
+<p>“Some leave us quietly, but many remain, and see, and confess to a fair
+deal. Then comes a free friendly talk about their country, and their
+people, and a Gospel talk about ‘Nzambi’&mdash;God.</p>
+
+<p>“The people who thus trade with us go away in every direction, telling
+their friends they have become acquainted with ‘<i>another people</i>,’</p>
+
+<p>“Thus our holy brethren are making more than a missionary self-support,
+and business increasing daily, and not only have their regular Sabbath
+services in the Kimbundu, but are talking six days a week beside;
+from morning till night they are talking in the Kimbundu of Jesus and
+Salvation to people who listen attentively, and repeat with great
+accuracy and earnestness any new thing that comes into their ears.</p>
+
+<p>“All this talk, which I have indicated through the English language,
+transpired in the Kimbundu, so that our missionary traders are daily
+learning the vernacular of the country much more rapidly and accurately
+than they could if confined to their libraries, especially as there was
+but a single fragmentary grammar, till one of our missionaries, H&egrave;li
+Chatelain, learned from the people who speak accurately, and has since
+printed a grammar and the Gospel by John; but as these are just from the
+press, our people have become
+familiar<!--687.png--><span class="pagenum">678</span>
+with the Kimbundu by direct and
+daily contact with the people without the aid of books.</p>
+
+<p>“On Saturday, June 8th, Brother Gordon and Bertie slept alternately night
+after night at the farm-house, and in the morning see that the hired
+men get early to work, and look after the cattle and send them out to
+pasture, and then return in time for breakfast.</p>
+
+<p>“I went to the farm-house early this morning and found Brother Gordon
+reading and explaining Scripture truth to the hired men in their own
+Kimbundu. When one grasped a new thought, he repeated it to the rest,
+with a glowing face.</p>
+
+<p>“Our cattle herd here is not large, but growing, and of choice stock.
+They require daily attention. Any fresh wounds on any of them will soon
+mortify if not properly attended to. I saw Brother Gordon lasso a couple
+of young bullocks this morning, almost as dexterously as I used to see
+the Spaniards do it in California. It took him about a minute to lasso
+one, throw him, tie his legs, and put a bar across his neck, so that the
+animal was entirely helpless. The object was, daily to clean and dress a
+wound till fully healed.</p>
+
+<p>“A wild plant grows plentifully in this country, called by the natives
+‘Lukange,’ a decoction of which applied hot&mdash;not to scald&mdash;appears to be
+more effective than carbolic acid. First, a cleansing of the wound with
+soap and warm water; second, an application of the lukange by means of a
+syringe. Then, to prevent ‘flyblow’ and its consequences, a preparation
+of salt and baked tobacco, pulverized, is applied. The nicotine of
+tobacco, boiled out, is the great remedy used by Australian sheep growers
+for killing a bad breed of lice, which would otherwise destroy their
+flocks. Tobacco is certainly a very poisonous, destructive weed, and
+death to vermin.</p>
+
+<p>“On Sabbath, 9th, Brother Gordon had a teaching and preaching meeting
+in the chapel at 10 A.M., then I preached a short discourse, and he
+interpreted into the Kimbundu. We had first and last about thirty native
+hearers. Some of them were greatly interested, and repeated to the rest
+the new thought that had just struck him.</p>
+
+<p>“At the close, a soldier, who was among the most attentive
+of<!--688.png--><span class="pagenum">679</span>
+the
+hearers, said, ‘I want to turn to God, and receive Jesus and be saved.’</p>
+
+<p>“Brother Gordon questioned him about giving up all his sins, and let
+Jesus take them all away.</p>
+
+<p>“He said, ‘Yes, I’ll give up everything that is wrong, and let Jesus save
+me,’</p>
+
+<p>“Then Brother Gordon asked if he had more than one wife?</p>
+
+<p>“‘Yes, I have two; but I am willing to give up either the one or the
+other; but I want you to tell me which one I should give up?’ Then, just
+as we were hoping to help him to come to Jesus, he had to respond to a
+call to duty as a soldier, and left, and we have not seen him since.
+Brother Gordon knows him, and will seek opportunity to help him.</p>
+
+<p>“Our mission house here, of solid adobe walls, 3 feet thick, is about 100
+feet front by 20 wide, for 82 feet, and the remaining 18 feet forms an
+L extension back about 50 feet, which is the chapel; the 82 feet being
+divided into four apartments, one of which is the room for trade. Back of
+the house is an abundant supply of oranges, mangoes in their season, and
+some other varieties, the whole covering about half an acre of ground;
+‘the best site in town’ for all our purposes. Our committee bought it,
+and paid for it over three years ago.</p>
+
+<p>“On Monday, 10th, I again visited Brother Gordon at the farm this
+morning, and visited on the premises, near a large tree, the grave of
+dear Sister Dodson&mdash;Miss Brannon. They had been united in marriage but
+about six months. She had on her wedding garment when called by the
+Master, and went quickly into the royal guest chamber of the King. Her
+short and sure way from Boston to heaven was through Angola in Africa.</p>
+
+<p>“To-day Brother Gordon and I took breakfast with Sr. Coimbra&mdash;“Costa &amp;
+Coimbra,” the largest business firm in Pungo Andongo. We took breakfast
+with Sr. Coimbra, seven miles this side of Malange, nearly four years
+ago. He is a kind, social man of the world.</p>
+
+<p>“On Tuesday, 11th, preparing for an early start to-morrow morning for
+Malange. Will go alone, of course, except the occasional sight of my two
+carriers, yet in ‘blessed fellowship divine,’ never alone nor lonely.
+<span class="smcap">Wm. Taylor</span>.”</p>
+
+<p><!--689.png--><span class="pagenum">680</span></p>
+
+<div class="center">FROM PUNGO ANDONGO TO MALANGE.</div>
+
+<p>“On Wednesday, 7 A.M., June 12th, I started from Pungo. My two carriers,
+engaged yesterday, had not reported at 7 A.M., so I started on my
+journey, leaving orders for them to join me at Korima, ten miles out.</p>
+
+<p>“I waited at Korima nearly an hour when they arrived, so we lunched
+and rested till 1.30 P.M. I walked that P.M. fifteen miles, and lodged
+at Kalunda Quartel. Quartel is not a hotel, but nevertheless a lodging
+place for travelers who carry their own bed and provisions. It is a rude
+barracks, for a small detachment of soldiers, under a Commandante, who
+lives in his own residence contiguous. I meant to stop at the house of
+the Commandante, who attended our preaching at Pungo last Sabbath, and
+dined with us, and who expressed a strong desire to have us establish a
+mission at Kalunda. It was, however, an hour after dark when I arrived at
+the Quartel, and the soldiers said it was a long distance to the house
+of the Commandante, so I waited about an hour for my carriers, and then
+took my cold lunch, put up my bed in a room without doors, and slept
+well. Was up and off at 6.15 in the morning, having rolled up my bedstead
+and bedding, and taken my breakfast in the early dawn. I walked thirteen
+miles, and waited three hours for my carriers, which put my dinner off
+till 3, so I walked but six miles that evening, and lodged in a rude
+construction of poles, with roof, but sides not covered with mortar or
+grass. It gave shelter from dew and afforded fresh outdoor air, which is
+always my preference in this country. I found several native travelers,
+with a camp-fire blazing when I arrived, among whom was a woman, husband
+and little girl of about 6 years. I spoke kindly to the naked little
+thing, and the parents were delighted. After I retired I was entertained
+till I lost consciousness in sleep, by the singing of the little
+six-year-old, who never heard a Christian hymn or tune in her life. She
+sang the words and tunes of about half-a-dozen native songs, and when she
+seemed to run out of words she sang on, ‘La, la, la, la,’ I thought of
+the countless millions of little children in Africa, all heirs of ‘the
+free gift which is unto the justification of life,’ and as susceptible of
+being ‘trained up in
+the<!--690.png--><span class="pagenum">681</span>
+way they should go,’ as the children of England
+or America; but, I said, with tears, Where are the trainers? O thou
+Creator and Redeemer of mankind, how long, how long?</p>
+
+<p>“Friday, 14th, I walked thirteen miles, lunched and rested a couple of
+hours, and six miles farther landed me in Malange. Just as I crossed the
+Malange River, I met Brothers Samuel J. and William H. Mead, and Robert
+Shields, accompanied by Mrs. Ardella and Miss Bertha Mead, mounted on
+bull backs, with portable organ, base viol, cornet, etc., on their way to
+Kolamosheeta, where I had lunched that day, to hold religious services.</p>
+
+<p>“The people of that town are hungry for the truth of God. I begged them
+not to stop for me, but to go on to their appointment, but they replied
+that the people would not assemble till their arrival was announced,
+and said they ‘were going out at this time, thinking they might meet me
+there.’ So they returned and I accompanied them to the mission-house in
+Malange. Malange is sixty-two miles distant from Pungo Andongo.</p>
+
+<p>“The fifty-one miles of travel from Dondo to Nhanguepepo is mainly
+through a region of rugged mountains and precipitous cliffs of solid
+rock, opening out into the long and widening grassy plateaus of
+Nhanguepepo. The thirty-eight miles from Nhangue to Pungo extend through
+and mainly across a series of ridges and hollows sparsely covered with
+scrubby timber. The soil not so rich, hence grass not so heavy and grass
+fires not so hot; therefore there is half a chance for trees to grow,
+with no chance at all from Dondo to Nhangue, except some very sappy
+varieties of but little value.</p>
+
+<p>“From Pungo on for twenty miles the ridges are much broader and not so
+high as those described; there is more sand, less grass and heavier, but
+still scrub-timber. Then for eight or ten miles we cross low, beautifully
+rounded grassy ridges, with a little streams of water near the surface,
+about half a mile apart between the ridges. Then, for most of the way
+to Malange we cross ridges less fertile, much higher, with an ascent of
+from two to four miles. The whole line of march bears southeasterly. All
+appears to be a good grazing country, with many herds of cattle, but not
+a tithe of the number required to keep the grass down, and thus keep
+up<!--691.png--><span class="pagenum">682</span>
+good short grass pasturage the year round, and preclude the great
+‘prairie fires,’ which destroy the young timber and prevent the growth of
+forests. For many miles around Malange, there is a fair supply of good
+hard-wood timber in variety.</p>
+
+<p>“Sam Mead, Ardella his wife, and Bertha his niece, and I came together to
+Malange, nearly four years ago. Sr. J. Preitas was then in charge of the
+long established business house of Sanza Laurie &amp; Co., in Malange, and
+gave us the temporary use of a house for our missionaries. After a day or
+two here, he informed me that Sanza Laurie &amp; Co. intended soon to close
+out their business in Malange, and that I had better buy their house and
+town lot on which it stood, containing an acre of land and some banana
+trees. The house was an extension of house added to house joined into
+solid walls, about one-third of wattle and earth, and the rest of adobe
+brick. The last one added, forty feet in length, was new, consisting
+simply of walls with no roof. The frontage of the whole was about 165
+feet, by a width of 18 feet. I inquired: ‘What is the price of the whole
+property, house and land?’</p>
+
+<p>“He replied: ‘You can have it for two hundred milreis, $214.’</p>
+
+<p>“I said: ‘I’ll give that amount,’ and the bargain was closed in about
+as few words as I have written. It is worth four times that amount now.
+The plates, girders and timbers are nearly all of ant-proof, and almost
+everlasting hard-wood, most of which are as solid to-day apparently as
+when new. One of them has a fire-proof covering by means of a double
+roof. On the lower is a heavy layer of cement of adobe clay, precluding
+rats, rain and fire. Over this is a thatch roof of long native grass.
+On the sunny side it has kept dry and sound, but on the north side our
+brethren have put on new thatch, cleaned and whitewashed the rooms, and
+finished the new forty-foot room, and fitted it up for a school-room and
+chapel, which is the seventh room in the building.</p>
+
+<p>“In the few days I was here, four years ago, Brother Sam and I selected
+and stept off a mission-farm adjoining our mission-house. He and Brother
+Gordon fenced, cleared and planted several acres in corn, beans, manioc,
+sweet potatoes, etc., and everything grew beautifully, but the brethren
+were kept indoors by illness for a few days, and just what an old
+Portuguese settler predicted came
+to<!--692.png--><span class="pagenum">683</span>
+pass, their fencing was all stolen
+for firewood, and the cattle and hogs devoured every green thing from the
+premises. Bad outlook for self-support. It was in the midst of a ‘three
+years’ drought,’ which precluded the growth of supplies at our other
+Angola stations, but our farm was not far from the ‘laguna,’ a lake, a
+few hundred yards wide, and perhaps a mile long, occasioned by the spread
+of the Malange River over a plain, which gave moisture to the soil for a
+considerable distance from its shore. We did not seek to get nearer to
+the lake for fear of malaria, being warned of that peril by old residents.</p>
+
+<p>“A fair share of the supplies for the first year of food, tools, and a
+little money, came to Malange for six missionaries, including Bertha, in
+her thirteenth year, with fresh supplies for the second year, and seven
+new missionaries to help to use them up, but all that was but to keep the
+wolf away, and afford means for the development of self-support. Sister
+Ardella’s health was so far gone, for months, that it was believed her
+life depended on her having apartments in a second story. But there were
+none in town, so a two-story house must be built. In the changes that
+were one way and another rapidly occurring, for the most part by attacks
+of home-sickness, that carried them off and clear out of the country,
+most of the work devolved on Brother Sam Mead, till two years ago his
+cousin, Brother Willie H. Mead and family moved hither from Nhangue,
+preceded by Brother Robert Shields, sent out by our Committee from
+Ireland. These have all stuck to the work here to which God called them,
+except that Edna Mead, a ripe Christian of about 12 years of age, at the
+call of God went up to join her sister, Nellie, in their heavenly home.</p>
+
+<p>“The results of this unpromising attempt at self-support I will sketch in
+my next letter. <span class="smcap">Wm. Taylor</span>.”</p>
+
+<div class="center">MISSIONARY SELF-SUPPORT AT MALANGE.</div>
+
+<p>“Malange Station received, at the beginning, its proportion of cloth,
+provisions, tools and a little money to tide a small band of workers&mdash;Sam
+Mead, Ardella his wife, and Bertha Mead, of 13,
+his<!--693.png--><span class="pagenum">684</span>
+niece, and two young
+men&mdash;through the first year, which proved to be the second of a ‘three
+years’ drought and famine.’</p>
+
+<p>“So a partial supply was sent for the ensuing year to prevent suffering
+from want. Meantime, the ‘tent-making’ by the missionaries, to ‘make ends
+meet,’ would have sufficed in a pinch, but the subsidy was salutary and
+safe, for they were not of the sort to be surfeited and suffocated even
+by an excess of supplies if they had had them, taking real pleasure in
+‘scratching’ for themselves. Two years were required for apprenticeship,
+experimenting in many things, with everything to learn essential to
+self-support.</p>
+
+<p>“About the beginning of the third year, after various changes by the
+coming and going of new workers, the coming of Willie H. Mead, with his
+family from Nhanguepepo, to join his cousin, Sam&mdash;about the beginning
+of the third year, marked the period when self-support really began to
+abound.</p>
+
+<p>“Minnie Mead, Willie’s wife, turned in $40 by her sewing machine. H&egrave;li
+Chatelain an equal sum by teaching languages to some traders. Robert
+Shields, from his private purse, put in $22. Willie has put in $80 per
+year from the rents of some property he has in Vermont, his old home,
+and, within a few months after arrival, put in $200 from pit-sawing and
+selling lumber. Most of these sums, with about $100 worth of goods sent
+as a present from Ireland to Brother Shields, were used to stock a little
+store for a small commercial business, as one branch of industry which
+was felt to be specially needful.</p>
+
+<p>“Most of the business of the labor market of Angola is transacted through
+copper coin currency. It is so difficult to procure and keep a supply of
+it on hand that to purchase it, even with gold, ten per cent. premium has
+to be paid. The patrons of a variety shop bring in for the purchase of
+things they require a good supply of the copper coin.</p>
+
+<p>“Robert Shields, having served a regular apprenticeship to the grocery
+business in Ireland, with an additional experience in it of a year and
+a half, was appointed to take charge of this industry, and work it in
+connection with his studies, and special evangelizing among the villagers
+adjacent to Malange.</p>
+
+<p>“The farm selected at the beginning was found to be too near
+the<!--694.png--><span class="pagenum">685</span>
+town,
+and the whole work of ‘a season’ on it having been destroyed in a night,
+there was no ground of hope for anything better by a repetition of
+the experiment of fencing and farming there. So Sam Mead, in a state
+of semi-desperation, mounted one of his bulls and managed to struggle
+through grass as high as his head to explore the lake shore, along which
+he found a neglected farm, on which were growing many valuable fruit
+trees; he also discovered that the farm, save its lake-side boundary,
+was enclosed by a strong growing hedge, and contained a body of about
+300 acres of black clay and loam of the most productive quality. He
+immediately sought for the owner&mdash;the heir to the man deceased, who had
+spent so much time, toil and money on it, and he bought and paid for it
+with money belonging to Ardella, his wife. He then went to work with a
+will, under a new inspiration of hope, assisted for a time by Brothers
+Rudolph and Gordon, and produced abundantly a variety of tropical and
+temperate zone products for food.</p>
+
+<p>“The mechanical industries were under the special charge of Wm. H.
+Mead. His sons&mdash;Johnnie and Sammy, the former about 12, and the latter
+nearly 11&mdash;out of school-hours are valuable helpers in each department,
+alternating where needed most.</p>
+
+<p>“Willie’s two pit-saws, in the two years he has been in Malange, have
+turned out $1,500 worth of planks and scantling, about half of which he
+sold, and used up the other half on improvements of mission property. To
+haul the logs from the forest, Sam had the oxen and Willie bought a huge
+Portuguese cart, with wheels of hard-wood, about four feet in diameter,
+and a hard-wood frame to match, all very strong and durable.</p>
+
+<p>“The outlay of the earnings of these workers, for the past two years,
+over and above self-supporting subsistence, may be seen in the following
+exhibit:</p>
+
+<p>“(1) The roofing and fitting up for school and chapel purposes of the
+unfinished hall, 18x40 feet, belonging to the block of buildings first
+bought for the mission. The girders, plates, rafters and collar beams are
+all of enduring hard-wood. The roof is double; the nether is covered with
+fire-proof clay; the upper with thatch grass. The shutters and doors, and
+frames for both, are of sawn hard-wood. Its slab benches, without backs,
+give quite a ‘rise’ to people
+always<!--695.png--><span class="pagenum">686</span>
+accustomed to sit on the ground.
+The cost of these improvements in material, labor and money is estimated
+to have been $300.</p>
+
+<p>“(2) The farm-house, 15x20 feet; corn crib, about 6x11 feet, set on
+posts, capt with inverted tin-pans, to prevent the rats from getting up;
+and two out-houses, about 10x10 feet, and a corral of heavy logs for the
+cattle, cost a total of $100.</p>
+
+<p>“(3) Willie Mead’s saw-pits, a shed, workshop and appliances, located in
+the mission yard, cost about $100.</p>
+
+<p>“(4) A new mission-house on the same lot on which stands the old one.
+It is 24x30 feet, two stories high. The lower story is built of dressed
+stone, the upper of adobe brick, solid walls, below and above, three and
+one-half feet thick, with a second-story, veranda front and rear of the
+building. Double fire-proof roof&mdash;as the chapel roof before described.
+Doors, window shutters, and frames of both, together with the verandas
+and upper-story floors, are all sawn hard-wood. The lower floor and walks
+outside are of flag-stones. It is the only two-story house in Malange,
+and believed to be the only house in Angola furnished with a chimney and
+fireplace, which adds greatly to its comfort in the really cold weather
+of Malange at this season of the year. The upper story is used by Sam
+and Ardella, and about half a dozen of their adopted native children.
+The lower story has also sleeping accommodations, but is the dining-room
+for Sam, Ardella, Robert Shields and Bertha, and the school ‘internoes.’
+The house is not large, but most symmetrical and substantial, and is
+prophetic of progress, and bears from the veranda facing the street a
+tall flag-staff from which floats the flag of our home country&mdash;the stars
+and stripes.</p>
+
+<p>“The brethren estimate the cost of this building, in materials, money
+and labor, at $800. To buy all the materials, and depend on hiring
+workmen, it could not be done for that amount. It will be observed that
+the aggregate outlay for these improvements amounts to $1,300, not a
+dollar of which was furnished by our Transit and Building Fund Society;
+the brethren preferring to do it themselves than to ask for or receive
+aid from home. They are now engaged in building a wall round our Malange
+Mission premises 1,000 feet long.</p>
+
+<p><!--696.png--><span class="pagenum">687</span></p>
+
+<p>“(5) The farm Brother Sam bought, with its field of sugar cane, so
+thickly set as to defy anything short of an elephant a passage through
+it; its fruit orchard; its live stock of twenty herd of cattle, including
+three yoke of oxen; and eleven breeding sows and male, and chickens, is
+worth in the market one thousand dollars.</p>
+
+<p>“As soon as Sam began to inquire for the owner, others began to compete
+with him as bidders for it, so, to avoid the peril of delay, he bought it
+at the earliest possible moment, and had it deeded to himself, and has
+held it in good faith for the mission. During my recent visit to Malange,
+I offered to refund Ardella’s money with interest.</p>
+
+<p>“Sam and Ardella laid the subject before the Lord, and returned
+answer, that, having given themselves and all they have to God for his
+self-supporting missions in Africa, they refuse a refund; but will
+immediately deed the farm and all the appurtenances thereunto belonging
+to the Transit and Building Fund Society, to be held in trust for the
+self-supporting missions of the Methodist Episcopal Church. I put the
+matter into the hands of Brother C. W. Gordon, our legal attorney, and
+the conveyance will be made, no doubt, before this MS. can be printed.</p>
+
+<p>“The building of the new house has absorbed a large proportion of the
+stock in trade of their little store. They were quite disinclined to
+allow me to help them stock it up a bit, but I prevailed on them to
+accept the small amount of $214.</p>
+
+<p>“As Willie Mead is a noted mechanical genius, on the
+short-cut-cheap-line, adapted to a country like this, and as Malange
+has greatly the advantage of any of our other Angola missions in timber
+supply, and the farthest inland, he should have an outfit of tools and
+machinery for a few branches of industry well adapted to that locality.
+This need has been in part provided for. Our Committee has sent a new
+supply of farming implements and carpenter’s tools for Malange, soon to
+arrive.</p>
+
+<p>“I have, on my return trip to the sea, ordered them a turning lathe from
+Nhangue; also a farmer’s outfit, the gift of Thomas Walker &amp; Sons, of
+England; and have sent from Dondo a blacksmith’s anvil, vice, tongs,
+etc. What Malange yet needs is a small steam-engine, of four or five
+horse-power, with ‘arbor’ and
+belting,<!--697.png--><span class="pagenum">688</span>
+and other appliances, and a
+thousand feet of small piping for pumping water, to run by steam, (1)
+their sugar cane crushing mill; (2) their corn meal grinding mill; (3)
+their turning lathe; (4) a small circular saw of eighteen or twenty
+inches diameter, also a small circular cross-cut saw, the saw to be sent
+from home with the engine, belting, and water-piping. We don’t want for
+Malange a saw mill, big engine, or anything costly or too heavy for easy
+transport on the heads of natives 150 miles from Dondo to Malange. Willie
+Mead did not ask for these things, but needs them for mission industrial
+teaching, in connection with his powerful preaching in the Portuguese
+language. He was proposing to sell his little property in Vermont, to use
+the money derivable from the sale of his homestead, to buy the engine,
+etc., as above, for Malange Mission, but I protest against that. Such men
+as the Meads are just the men we can afford to help with certainty of
+broad self-supporting missionary independency and wide-spread efficiency,
+without danger of dependency. <span class="smcap">Wm. Taylor</span>.”</p>
+
+<div class="center">RETURN FROM MALANGE TO DONDO.</div>
+
+<p>“I was planning to leave Malange, Monday, 24th of June, but ‘Magady was
+dying,’ so I yielded to the request of our brethren and sisters, and
+postponed till Wednesday, the 26th. Magady was a ‘Labola boy,’ who, as a
+little fellow, gave himself to Sam and Arda, nearly four years ago. He
+was very black, but pronounced by some as ‘the most beautiful boy they
+ever saw.’ The people on the south side of the Coanza, from its mouth
+up for 250 miles, are called Kasamas; thence on for 200 or 300 miles, a
+similar people are called the Lib&oacute;los. Neither will allow the Portuguese
+people to travel through their country.</p>
+
+<p>“Magady’s story was that his parents were dead, and that his uncle
+treated him so badly he ran away from his country, and became cook for
+the Malange mission. He was taught to know, to fear and to love the
+Lord, and to sing our hymns. For about two years he was a consistent
+Christian. Then, through the intrigues of an influential, designing,
+bad man, he was enticed into bad company, and forsook the Lord. Then he
+was visited by a disease
+of<!--698.png--><span class="pagenum">689</span>
+his head. He would be walking along, and
+fall as suddenly as if shot by a Remington rifle, and lie some time in a
+state of insensibility, but that was as nothing compared with severe and
+sudden pains in his head that caused him to scream aloud at all hours,
+day and night. None but himself attempted to diagnose his case. He said
+‘Gan N’Zambi’ sent it on him for his wicked departure from Him, and
+would destroy his body, but had forgiven him, and washed his spirit, and
+that he was sure he would soon go to live with God, and was anxiously
+waiting for the call of the King. About 2 P. M. Monday, June 24th, he
+died. Willie Mead made him a hard-wood coffin, and lined and covered it
+with white cotton cloth, and he was laid in a grave six feet deep in our
+own mission burial-ground, where dear Edna Mead sleeps. I conducted the
+funeral service, about thirty persons being present&mdash;a ‘brand snatched
+from the burning,’ our first Angola representative in heaven.</p>
+
+<p>“During my sojourn in Malange, this trip, I slept in my own bed, as
+usual, set up in the second-story veranda of our new house, overlooking
+the street. The nights were very cold and the winds very high, but I
+rested sweetly, and improved the tone of my health. For two years I had
+endured an unmitigated high pressure of care and anxiety, on account of
+the combinations against the success of my work, within and without,
+front and rear, threatening the life of my missions. But for the great
+kindness and care of my gracious God and Father it would have killed me.
+Viewing the blessed harmony and efficiency of our workers from Loanda,
+and on for 390 miles to Malange, I set up my Ebenezer, and wept, wept,
+and praised God softly, softly. Then I rested my weary spirit on the
+bosom of Jesus, and resigned my way-worn body to sleep. There, in the
+breezes of the high veranda, days and nights together, I slept and
+slept, and waked, only to say ‘thank God,’ and slept again. Then I got
+up feeling as fresh as the morning. I bade adieu to my kindred dear in
+Malange, and left at a quarter to eight Wednesday morning, June 26th, and
+Friday P.M. reached Pungo Andongo, and had a blessed two days’ sojourn
+with Brother Gordon, Sisters Withey, Bertha, Lottie and Flossie&mdash;holy,
+lovely people. Brother Gordon is a master in the Portuguese and Kimbundu.
+We preached an hour Sunday A.M. I knew his rendering into Kimbundu
+was<!--699.png--><span class="pagenum">690</span>
+clear and forcible, by its manifest effect on the hearers. It was their
+regular chapel service for each Sabbath. The soldier who was awakened on
+my way out has been called away on duty, so that we can’t report progress
+in his case, but half-a-dozen men, or more, came forward on this occasion
+as seekers of pardon, and prayed audibly, but did not appear to enter
+into life.</p>
+
+<p>“I left for Nhangue, Monday morning, July 1st. Brother Gordon accompanied
+me fourteen miles to Queongwa, to show me a mission farm Brother Withey
+recently bought there, of probably 250 acres. We went through it that
+afternoon, from end to end. It is bounded on the west by a bold running
+stream, and on the north by the caravan path, stretching across a ridge
+of fertile soil over 200 rods wide. The former owner was with us, and
+wanted to sell us the lower end of the same ridge, extending from this
+path about 200 rods to the hollow, northward, where it is bounded by
+another little river, till it flows into the one that bounds the whole
+tract on the west side, and has another shallow stream flowing through
+the addition near its eastern boundary. So, as this new survey, of about
+200 acres, was offered to us at a very small figure, we bought it. The
+former purchase from self-supporting earnings, has already been conveyed
+to the T. and B. F. Soc. for the M. E. Church, and this will be, or is by
+this time.</p>
+
+<p>“Brother Gordon is a symmetrical, lovely character, and efficient in
+everything he takes hold of. When Brother Withey and he took hold of our
+little store in Pungo a little over a year ago, its assets were $200,
+now over $1,000, and the preaching done across the counter in all holy
+conversation and honest dealing, is a power for God in that centre of
+far-reaching influence.</p>
+
+<p>“I reached Nhangue on Tuesday P.M., and rested Wednesday till 4 P.M. We
+had a preaching and baptismal service. Brother Rudolph has had several
+young natives converted during my absence. Here, as at Malange, many
+candidates for baptism we had to put off for better preparation. We
+baptized none of responsible years who were not well recommended by
+missionaries who had been training them for many months, and who were
+assured, from their profession and lives, of real conversion to God,
+and declined to baptize any children whose parents were not
+prepared<!--700.png--><span class="pagenum">691</span>
+publicly to pledge themselves to teach or have their children taught
+their baptismal relation and obligations to God, and to trust Him for His
+baptismal pledges to them. Those rejected were disappointed. However,
+on Wednesday P.M., I baptized twenty-one little children, and several
+converted lads, and five new probationers were added to our native
+church, making thirteen natives at Nhanguepepo, and twenty-one at Malange.</p>
+
+<p>“On Thursday morning, Brother Karl accompanied me as far as Nellie Mead’s
+grave, under a shade tree, about two rods from the caravan trail. A
+construction of solid masonry, about 5x8 feet, and two feet high, covers
+her consecrated bones, all given to God before she left America, and laid
+at the front, according to her covenant, to live and die for Jesus in
+Africa. She was a natural musician, and has gone to take lessons where
+‘the new song’ is attuned to the ‘harpers’ of the melody of heaven. She
+was one of our children, of the same age, but less stature, of Bertha
+Mead. Dear little Willie Hicks sleeps beside her, and will, with her,
+wake up at the first call, early in the morning.</p>
+
+<p>“I bade dear Karl adieu, and walked that day twenty-six miles, and camped
+at Kasoki, and next day, July 5th, walked twenty-five miles, and put up
+with dear Brother Withey and Stella, at our mission-house at Dondo. I
+thus completed my walk of 300 miles with less weariness than the same
+route cost me nearly four years ago. Glory to God, my patient loving
+Father in heaven and here in the mountains and vales in Africa! <span class="smcap">Wm.
+Taylor</span>.”</p>
+
+<p>Writing in September, 1889, Bishop Taylor says of his Congo missions:</p>
+
+<p>“Vivi is about 100 miles from the ocean, on the north side of the Congo
+River.</p>
+
+<p>“Old Vivi, founded by Mr. Stanley, is reached by climbing a steep
+ascent of half a mile or more from the steamboat landing and Government
+warehouses at the river-side. It is now entirely deserted. Proceeding
+by the same road along the slope of the ridge on which old Vivi stands,
+and thence across a deep glen and up another steep hill, we reach ‘Vivi
+Top,’ the site of the first capital of the State. It is located on a
+broad and beautiful plateau, commanding a full view of several miles of
+the river with its whirlpools and
+sweeping<!--701.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_692" id="Page_692">692</a></span>
+currents. The villages of
+Matadi, Tundua, the site of Underhill Mission of the English Baptists,
+and several trading stations, all dressed in white paint and lime, stand
+out and grace the scene on the south bank of the great river.</p>
+
+<p>“The Government imported and built several large houses of wood and iron
+at Vivi. One of the houses, I was informed, cost the Governor-General
+$17,000. We could have bought it for $9,000, but had to decline the
+generous offer for lack of means.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_692.jpg" width="600" height="571"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">MISSION HOUSE AT VIVI.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>“The large houses were taken down and shipt to Boma, the present capital,
+about fifty miles below Vivi, and were reconstructed on Boma plateau.</p>
+
+<p>“We bought the site of the old capital, comprising about
+twelve<!--702.png--><span class="pagenum">693</span>
+acres of
+land and a few small buildings, sufficiently capacious for our needs for
+a few years, for $768.</p>
+
+<p>“The plateau being so high and dry, I did not apply for much land,
+considering it unsuitable for profitable cultivation. We require the
+site for a receiving station for the transport of supplies for our
+contemplated industrial stations in the interior north of the Congo, and
+the great Upper Congo, and Kasai countries.</p>
+
+<p>“I now perceive that under the judicious management of my
+Preacher-in-Charge, J. C. Teter, Vivi will become, in the near future,
+a self-supporting station, and the most beautiful mission premises on
+either bank of the river. On my recent arrival in Vivi, about the 8th
+of August, with the dry season far advanced, I was delighted to find,
+on the high and dry soil of Vivi, a field of manioc, beautifully green
+and growing. The mango and palm trees on the place when we came into
+possession have made a remarkable growth during my absence, and are
+full of fruit; a young orchard of choice varieties of tropical fruits
+are getting a fine start, and in the garden plenty of yams as large as
+my head. I also find a promising start in the production of live stock.
+We already have at Vivi eight choice African sheep; twenty-five goats,
+which multiply like rabbits; 100 chickens, and a male and a female calf.
+Brother Teter built a house for the sheep, another for the goats, and a
+corral for the calves. These are not in care of keepers or dogs during
+the day, and they return to their houses in the evenings and are shut
+in from the leopards. One of those dangerous customers reached his paw
+in through a slight opening in the wall of the goat house, and tore a
+fine female goat so that it was necessary to kill her. The morning after
+my arrival I went with Brother Teter to see the goats come out of their
+fortress. As they came rushing through the door, I was surprised and
+amused to see three monkeys mounted on the backs of goats, as pompously
+riding out to the grazing grounds as if the flock belonged to them. They
+lodge with the goats by night, and spend most of their time with them
+through the day, and are often seen riding as erect as a drill sergeant
+of cavalry. They spend many of their leisure hours in picking bugs and
+burrs off the goats, and playing
+with<!--703.png--><span class="pagenum">694</span>
+the kids. Their indescribable
+antics are enough to make a dog laugh, and to relieve a confirmed
+dyspeptic of the blues.</p>
+
+<p>“Brother Teter is building of stone a snake-proof chicken-house. A lesson
+of sad experience led him to build of solid masonry. Some months ago,
+Sister Teter went into the chicken-house, then in use, to look after a
+sitting hen. While stooping over the nest, which she thought was occupied
+by the hen, she felt something like a jet of spray come into her face,
+and this was quickly repeated two or three times, filling her eyes with
+the poison of a “spitting snake,” which lay coiled in the nest. All that
+night she suffered, in total blindness, indescribable agony of pain. By
+the prompt application of powerful remedies her life was saved, and her
+sight restored, but her health was injured by the poison. The dear woman
+was quite unwell on my recent arrival, but seemed quite restored before I
+left.</p>
+
+<p>“I have furnished a glimpse of the sunny side of Vivi, produced by the
+genius and industry of our faithful Preacher-in-Charge. Our Vivi Station
+and our cause have suffered temporarily by the disaffection and departure
+of those who were numbered with us; but their departure has left us in
+peace and harmony, with the possibility and certainty of success in the
+work to which God has called us. ‘They went out from us, but they were
+not of us; for if they had been of us, they would no doubt have continued
+with us,’ There are many not very good, and many who are very good,
+who are ‘not of us’ and not ‘with us’ in our Self-Supporting Mission
+movement. When such of either class, by mistake, get into our list of
+workers, the best thing for all concerned is for them to get out, as
+quietly and as quickly as possible. We are sorry for them, and cease not
+to love them and to pray for them.</p>
+
+<p>“On Wednesday afternoon, the 14th of August, accompanied by Lutete, a
+native man, employed to carry my blankets and food, I took the path for
+Isangala; distant, ’tis said, fifty-five miles from Vivi. We walked
+twelve miles, and put up for the night at a new mission just being opened
+by Mr. and Mrs. Reed and Mr. Bullikist, recently sent out as missionaries
+by Dr. Simpson, of New York.</p>
+
+<p>“They seem to be earnest Christians, and will, I trust, make a
+soul-saving success. They are having three native houses
+built,<!--704.png--><span class="pagenum">695</span>
+each
+about 12x18 feet, which will give shelter for three or four years. Their
+faithful dog shared in their tent lodgings, till one night, a few weeks
+since, a leopard or panther scented him, took ‘a fancy to him,’ and
+carried him off. Brother Reed is expert in the use of a gun, and supplies
+his table with venison from the prairies. Soon after his arrival, he went
+out and killed a deer, and a native king and some of his people came and
+claimed and clamored for it. Reed got their attention, and, leveling his
+rifle at a tree, he put an explosive bullet into a knot and tore it to
+pieces. He then drew his revolver, and discharged it a few times in the
+air. His argument had its effect on their minds, and they quietly retired.</p>
+
+<p>“At 7 o’clock next day, having disposed of a good breakfast, I took the
+trail, and walked seventeen miles, to Matamba Creek, by 3 P.M. I was
+quite disinclined to camp so early, but there being no available water
+for seven miles beyond, I made my pallet on the ground and turned in for
+the night. I usually have my very comfortable portable bedstead, but
+going only for a short stay at Isangala, I took but one carrier instead
+of two, my usual number.</p>
+
+<p>“Passing through Bunde Valley to-day, I saw a herd of nine or ten koko&mdash;a
+huge deer as big as a donkey, with longer legs. They bounded away a few
+rods, and at the distance of about a hundred yards stood and looked at us
+till we passed out of sight. My Winchester would have brought one of them
+down if it had been with me, instead of at Vivi.</p>
+
+<p>“Twice, later in the day, we were within easy shot of large red deer.
+On my return, in the same valley, which is about eight miles long,
+stretching between mountains or high hills north and south of it, and
+abounding in game, I was within easy shot of a koko, which stood and
+looked at me without moving. We also heard buffalo in a jungle of
+grass and bushes, not thirty yards from us. I saw plenty of game when
+I traveled this path over two years ago, but I don’t carry a gun in
+traveling, having enough to do to carry myself, and no time for curing
+and packing the meat, if taken.</p>
+
+<p>“I went out from Vivi with Brother Teter, the other day, to
+get<!--705.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_696" id="Page_696">696</a></span>
+meat for
+use. Our hunting-ground was about ten miles from home. The first day we
+got no meat, but saw many koko and deer. The second day at noon, we had
+nothing, and were getting into a position to sympathize with a hungry
+hunter of the olden time who sold his birthright for a pot of soup with
+no venison in it. Teter was becoming desperate, for he is a noted hunter,
+hungry for meat, and withal had a reputation to sustain. As soon as we
+got our lunch of all we had, he took my Winchester and set off alone.
+When he had gone half a mile from camp, he ‘stalked’ a small herd of
+koko, and shot a young buck through the neck and killed him, and then
+emptied the gun-chamber of its dozen cartridges in trying to bring down
+another buck. He shot off its right fore leg, and shot off the sinews
+of the left one, and put a bullet into its hip, but he would not down.
+Teter, having no more cartridges, left the gun and pursued the wounded
+deer and stoned him to death. We had with us two Liberia boys. We camped
+near by for the night, and before the morning dawn, we had the larger
+buck cut into thin slices and cured by the fire. The younger one, about
+a year and a half old, was carried whole to Vivi, by a hired native.
+Our Liberia boys, with a good supply of fresh meat, were so refreshed
+in their minds that they sang the songs of Moody and Sankey, almost
+incessantly, for days. The deer of this section are smaller than the
+antelope and gemsbock varieties which we read of in other sections, and
+which offer such royal sport for those who go equipped for hunting.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_697.jpg" width="600" height="341"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">HUNTING THE GEMBOCK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>“On Friday, we walked from Matamba Creek, twenty-three miles to Isangala.
+By my usual speed of three miles an hour, I made the distance from Vivi
+to Isangala, fifty-two miles instead of fifty-five, as per Mr. Stanley.
+I was, however, in fine condition for walking, and may have overstept my
+ordinary gait. Arriving at Isangala, I came first to the station of the
+State, and by invitation of Mons. C. La Jeune, the Government Chief of
+Isangala, I stopt for half an hour in pleasant conversation, and then
+proceeded a few hundred yards to our Isangala Mission Station.</p>
+
+<p>“I found our faithful missionaries, Brothers White and Rasmussen, in good
+heath, and happy in the Lord.</p>
+
+<p>“They have built a cheap but comfortable house, about
+15x40<!--707.png--><span class="pagenum">698</span>
+feet, also
+a kitchen and warehouse for storing our stuff. They have made a garden
+also, which yields a goodly portion of their support. A single yam,
+dug while I was there, weighed twenty-two pounds. Beside vegetables,
+they have a large flock of chickens. These brethren both belong to our
+transport corps, but have done this station work beside, and have made
+good progress toward the mastery of the Fiot or Congo language.</p>
+
+<p>“Brother Rasmussen, though but two and a half years in this country,
+speaks the Fiot fluently, and preaches in it in the villages contiguous.
+I remained with those dear brethren from Friday evening till Tuesday, the
+20th. We had Blessed Communion with the Holy Trinity and with each other.
+On Sabbath, I preached to a company of natives, and Brother Rasmussen
+interpreted without hitch or hesitation. In another year or two this
+dear brother, under the anointing of the Holy Spirit, can go forth as an
+apostle among the nations of Congo.</p>
+
+<p>“One part of my business was to advise with these brethren on the
+possible solution of our steamer problem. I had talked up all the points
+with Brother Teter, and he was so sure these brethren would concur in
+our conclusions, he thought it quite sufficient for me to write them,
+and thus save myself the labor of a rough walk of over a hundred miles.
+I said: ‘Nay, brother, I will walk it, and get the unbiased decisions
+of their own judgment, and enlist the free good-will and effective
+co-operation of the brethren in the work before us under a new impulse
+which personal contact would communicate.’</p>
+
+<p>“Before intimating the conclusions reached at Vivi, I drew out the candid
+opinions and judgment of these brethren, and found they were of exactly
+the same mind with us. When by mistake we take the ‘wrong road,’ and
+travel a long distance in it, it seems a grievance to us to face about
+and trudge our weary way back to the ‘cross-roads,’ but however much it
+may go against the grain, that is the thing to do. It seems to lighten
+the task a little, if some unfortunate fellow can be branded as ‘the
+scape-goat’ to bear the blame of the mistake, for we all are of kin to
+that dear lady we read about, who tried to make a scape-goat of the
+devil; and to the unmanly man, who had the honor to be her husband, and
+tried<!--708.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_699" id="Page_699">699</a></span>
+to make a scape-goat of his wife. But our well-intentioned mistake
+was not a sin and we have no need of a scape-goat.</p>
+
+<p>“Well, without enumerating the sources of clearer light, and the new
+conditions and changes which have intervened in the last two years,
+our unanimous judgment is that the Lord wants our present steamer for
+the Lower Congo,&mdash;and a much lighter one for the Upper Congo and Kasai
+water-ways two or three years hence. We will, as soon as the Lord will
+help us, occupy our station at Luluaburg, vacant since the death of Dr.
+Summers, and hold our footing in that vast and populous region.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_699.png" width="600" height="423"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">BISHOP TAYLOR’S MISSIONS ON THE LOWER CONGO.
+(underlined)</span>
+<a href="images/i_699x.png" target="_blank">Larger.</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>“I believe the Lord has a special providential purpose to fulfil in
+settling us on the north side of the Lower Congo. He wants us to occupy a
+densely populated, and utterly neglected region, so far as missionaries
+are concerned, belonging to the Free State of Congo, extending 230 miles,
+from Banana to Manyanga, and 100 miles wide. So that, while we shall, the
+Lord willing, carry out our plan of planting missions in the countries
+of the Upper Kasai and Sankuru Rivers, we will also provide for these
+vast regions so near us. Our steamer will be available for the supply
+of all these vast
+fields.<!--709.png--><span class="pagenum">700</span>
+Beside all this, if our time and space will
+permit, we can carry for our neighbors any variety of freights, except
+intoxicating liquors. Our plan, from the beginning, was in connection
+with books and Gospel preaching, to establish industries to employ the
+natives, and prepare them for usefulness. So, if it shall please the Lord
+to give us a money-saving and a money-making transport service, direct
+from Banana to the regions before-named, it will be in perfect accord
+with our plan of missionary work for this country, and furnish us means
+for its more rapid extension.</p>
+
+<p>“Much of the work will be done by natives, whom we shall train, and
+our own missionaries engaged in it will not be throwing away either
+time or opportunity. Associating daily with the people, mastering their
+languages, visiting their homes, employing them in business, bettering
+their condition, exhibiting to them in all our words and ways the loving
+spirit of Christ, and unfolding to them the hidden treasures of Divine
+light and life is the kind of missionary work specially adapted to these
+nations. There is no personal money-making motive nor purpose in it. ‘We
+are workers together with God.’ We can trust Him for board and lodging
+while in His service, and trust Him for reward when the work is done.</p>
+
+<p>“During my absence from Congo of over a year and a half, Brother
+Teter, in charge at Vivi, has had to stand firmly in defense of me, my
+Committee, and my cause of Self-Supporting Missions, and having a few
+sets of my books, he is continually lending them to the traders and State
+officials stationed along the river from Vivi to Banana. Among these was
+Mons. C. La Jeune, who became so interested in them, that at our recent
+meeting in Isangala, he asked me to allow him to translate and print some
+of them into the French language, for circulation in Belgium. He said he
+was soon going home for at least six months, and would in that time make
+the translations and arrangements for their sale. I had the pleasure of
+giving him a written permission to do as he desired.</p>
+
+<p>“The officers of the Congo State, from the Governor-General down, are
+extremely polite and obliging, but the amount of Governmental tape that
+belongs essentially to the administration of an
+old<!--710.png--><span class="pagenum">701</span>
+European Government
+is a means of grace, especially the grace of patience to an American
+pioneer.</p>
+
+<p>“On Sunday, 25th, I preached in the open to twenty-six seated, attentive
+English-speaking negroes from Liberia, Acra and Lagos, and a crowd that
+stood and looked on. There are many scores of such people employed at
+Boma, and their numbers are increasing. A great deal of missionary
+money has been expended in civilizing and Christianizing these people,
+especially those from the missions of the coast of Guinea, by the
+Lutheran, Church of England and Wesleyan Methodists. They are very
+anxious for a place of worship in Boma, it being the capital of the State
+in which, by the will of God, we will plant hundreds of mission stations
+in the near future. We ought to have a mission-school and church in Boma.
+To accomplish all this next year we really lack but one thing, and that
+is, the money. The cheap stations we establish in the wild regions of
+the heathen are not of the style required for Boma. A plain, substantial
+building for residence, school and preaching services would cost about
+$5,000. <span class="smcap">Wm. Taylor</span>.”</p>
+
+<div class="center">SOUTH AFRICAN MISSION FIELDS.</div>
+
+<p>South Africa next engages our attention. Passing by its natural scenery,
+soil, productions, climate, its cities, towns and villages, manners and
+customs of its many native tribes, and the character of its colonists, we
+will confine ourselves strictly to what has been done for the moral and
+religious welfare of the inhabitants. And first of the Western Province
+of Cape Colony.</p>
+
+<p>The Dutch Reformed church being that of the original colonists is the
+strongest religious denomination, and it is numerously represented in
+most of the towns and villages throughout the country. Formerly it was
+regarded as the church of the white people alone. It was not till the
+advent of the missionaries that the Dutch church awoke to the necessity
+of doing something for the natives. Lately they have nobly redeemed their
+character and in connection with many of their churches a large amount of
+missionary work is done. The same <i>was</i> true of the Church of England.
+Now, with the aid of funds from home, they have been erecting churches
+and
+school<!--711.png--><span class="pagenum">702</span>
+buildings in the towns and villages and appointing ministers
+and teachers to labor among all classes. Lutherans, Presbyterians and
+Baptists were also represented by churches in Cape Town but they did
+nothing for the masses of the people.</p>
+
+<p>Cape Colony, in common with other parts of South Africa, is chiefly
+indebted to the missionary societies for the moral and religious
+instruction of the masses.</p>
+
+<p>The Moravians had the honor of being the first in the field, the Rev.
+Geo. Schmidt having gone out to the Cape as early as 1737. A writer in
+the <i>Missionary Review</i> in 1889 says:</p>
+
+<p>“Foremost in the fight with ignorance and evil in South Africa stands the
+figure of George Schmidt, prepared for the hardships of his missionary
+life by six years of imprisonment for conscience’ sake in Bohemia, during
+which his brother in tribulation, Melchior Nitschmann, died in his arms.
+Whence came the zeal which moved Schmidt to make his way alone to South
+Africa in 1737, and to dwell among his little colony of Hottentots in
+Bavianskloof, until in 1743 the persecutions of the Dutch settlers and
+clergy drove him from the country, and their intrigues prevented his
+return? Whence came the ardent heart’s desire, which led him day by
+day to a quiet spot near his German home, and there poured itself out
+in prayers for his orphaned flock far away, until, like Livingstone,
+he died on his knees pleading for Africa? Such burning love and such
+persistent prayer are not of man, they are of God. And though the answer
+tarried long&mdash;yes, fifty years&mdash;it came before this century commenced.
+George Schmidt was no longer on earth to hear the reports of the three
+men upon whom his mantle fell&mdash;how they found the spot which he had
+cultivated, the ruins of his hut yet visible, the whole valley a haunt
+of wild beasts; and, better, how they found one surviving member of that
+little congregation of 47 who had long waited and hoped for the return
+of the beloved teacher. This was an aged blind Hottentot woman, who
+welcomed them as Schmidt’s brothers with “Thanks be to God,” and unrolled
+from two sheep-skins her greatest treasure, a Dutch New Testament which
+he had given her. Soon this so-called Bavianskloof (<i>i.e.</i> Baboon’s
+Glen) was changed into “The Vale of Grace” (in Dutch, Genadendal), and
+where Schmidt’s poor
+hut<!--712.png--><span class="pagenum">703</span>
+stood there is now a large settlement, with
+a congregation of more than 3,000 members. From this center the work
+has spread over Cape Colony, and beyond its borders into independent
+Kaffaria. Now its two provinces include 16 stations with their filials,
+where 60 missionary agents have charge of 12,300 converts.”</p>
+
+<p>The Evangelical French Missionary Society has stations at Wallington
+and Waggonmaker’s Valley, but its principal field is in the interior.
+The Berlin Missionary Society are also represented in the Riversdale
+district. The Rhenish Missionary Society also occupies many important
+stations. The London Missionary Society began its work in 1799, and has
+made its influence to be felt for good in various parts of the country.
+The Wesleyan Missionary Society commenced its labors in 1814. They were
+hindered for a few years by the government authorities, but in the
+course of time they made great progress in building churches and mission
+premises, and in organizing schools all over the Colony.</p>
+
+<p>The Eastern Province of Cape Colony is also indebted to the missionary
+societies for religious instruction. Prosperous stations of the Moravian,
+Berlin, Rhenish, French Evangelical, Presbyterian, London, and Wesleyan
+Missionary Societies have been established in various places. The two
+societies last mentioned, however, have been most extensively engaged in
+purely missionary work. The London Society began in 1799 by sending out
+Dr. Vanderkemp and the Wesleyan in 1820, the Rev. William Shaw being the
+pioneer missionary. The temporal and spiritual benefits resulting from
+the labors of these two societies to the people of different tribes and
+languages in the Eastern Province of the Cape Colony were very marked.</p>
+
+<p>In Kaffaria most of the religious denominations and missionary societies
+at work in the Eastern Province of Cape Colony are at work here also.</p>
+
+<p>In Natal, the Church of England has been unfortunate in the part it has
+taken in the work there. As early as 1838 a missionary, a teacher and a
+doctor, were sent out by the Church Missionary Society. Soon afterwards
+others were sent to evangelize the natives, but war breaking out the work
+was entirely relinquished. In 1853 Natal was constituted a diocese and
+Dr. Colenso was
+consecrated<!--713.png--><span class="pagenum">704</span>
+the first bishop; but, according to his own
+confession, instead of converting the natives to Christianity, he was
+himself converted by a Zulu Kaffir, and proceeded at once to encourage
+polygamy and other heathen practices. Another bishop was appointed, but
+Dr. Colenso determined not to be superseded, and a scene of wrangling and
+litigation ensued, painful to contemplate. Churches have been built in
+several towns for the benefit of the settlers, but not much has been done
+for the religious instruction of the natives by the Church of England.</p>
+
+<p>The American Board of Foreign Missions sent out missionaries in 1834.
+They were men of superior learning and intelligence. They have labored
+chiefly among the natives. By their literary ability and persevering
+efforts they have rendered good service to the cause of God by the
+part they have taken in the translation of the Scriptures and their
+remonstrances with Bishop Colenso. The Berlin, Hermannsburg, Swedish,
+Norwegian, London and Wesleyan Missionary Societies have representatives
+in Natal. The Dutch Reformed Church and the Scotch Presbyterians have a
+few ministers and churches as have also the Free Church of Scotland and
+the Independents.</p>
+
+<p>The Rev. James Scott of Impolweni, Natal, writes to the <i>Free Church
+Monthly</i> in reference to an interesting work among the Dutch Boers, and
+extending to the Zulus in the northern portion of Natal about Greytown.
+Most of the Boers belong to the Dutch Reformed Church, and while they
+have attended outwardly to Christian ordinances, they have heretofore
+cared little for the native population. Three years ago a religious
+awakening began among these Boers, and the genuineness of this interest
+was shown by their desire to reach the Zulus, whom they had regarded
+as little better than animals. There are now fifteen preaching places
+where the Gospel is proclaimed, and which Mr. Scott says are simply the
+farmhouses of the Boers. He speaks of seeing eighty Boers and three or
+four hundred Zulus gather together for worship. The Zulus come from
+kraals and villages, both old and young, some clothed, but most of
+them heathen in their blankets. Over one hundred in Greytown have been
+formed into a native church in connection with the Dutch church. This
+work is now being
+carried<!--715.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_706" id="Page_706">706</a></span>
+forward under the direction of a committee
+of the Dutch farmers, employing three native Evangelists. One of these
+evangelists is the son of the Zulu warrior who in 1836, at the signal
+from Dingaan, the cruel tyrant, fell upon the Dutch leader Retief and his
+party of about seventy men, murdering them all in cold blood. This father
+still lives, and is a member of the Christian church and listens gladly
+to his son as he preaches the gospel of peace.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 417px;">
+<img src="images/i_705.jpg" width="417" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NATIVE WARRIOR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Orange Free State is an independent Dutch republic. The whites,
+Dutch, English, and other Europeans greatly outnumber the colored
+persons, who are of different tribes, but chiefly half-castes. The
+religious instruction of these people is fairly provided for by the
+different agencies now at work among them. The Dutch Reformed church of
+course takes the lead, and they have erected places of worship, appointed
+ministers, and gathered congregations in all the towns and villages
+and in many of the rural districts. The Berlin and Wesleyan Missionary
+Societies are also doing a good work especially among the wandering
+tribes of Bechuanas, Baralongs, and Korannas. In Zululand, previous to
+the war in 1879, the Propagation Society of the Church of England, and
+the Hermannsburg and Norwegian Missionary Societies, had established
+stations, and attempted the evangelization of the natives, but with very
+slender results. On the breaking out of hostilities, all the missionaries
+and teachers had to leave the country. They have since returned and gone
+to work under more favorable auspices.</p>
+
+<p>It is stated that a nephew of the late King Cetewayo, after six years in
+Sweden in theological and other studies has gone back to carry on mission
+work in his native land.</p>
+
+<p>No people in South Africa have benefited more by missionary labor than
+those in Basutoland. The agents of the French Evangelical Society have
+taken the lead in the work, having entered the field in 1833. They have
+many flourishing stations, and their efforts have been very successful
+in converting the heathen and in diffusing among the people general
+knowledge calculated to promote their civilization and social elevation.
+The Wesleyan missionaries have also established important and prosperous
+stations. By the presence and influence of the missionaries, industrious
+habits
+have<!--716.png--><span class="pagenum">707</span>
+become the distinctive characteristics of the Christian
+Basutos. The commercial relations of the country have been facilitated. A
+great impulse has been given to agriculture, in so much that the general
+aspect of the country, even in those parts that have not come under the
+influence of the Gospel, has been transformed. This has been strongly
+testified to by Mr. Griffiths, the British commissioner.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most pleasing incidents in Pinto’s narrative is his meeting
+with the Coillard missionary family at Luchuma, on the Cuando. They were
+French missionaries, and the family was composed of Mr. and Mrs. Coillard
+and a niece, Elise. At the time of the meeting, Mr. Coillard was on his
+way to King Lobossi, to receive his reply to a request to enter his
+country for missionary purposes&mdash;a request which, by the way, was denied.
+This failure made it necessary for Mr. Coillard to return to Bamanguato,
+so the family and Pinto joined resources and took up the line of march
+together.</p>
+
+<p>More than fifty years ago the land of the Basutos, whose boundaries touch
+the colonies of the Cape and of Natal on the south and of the Orange
+Free State on the west, became the abode of numerous French Protestant
+missionaries. They worked so faithfully that the native sense of savagery
+disappeared and the Basutos came to be the most civilized of the South
+African tribes. Now the Christian schools of Basuto number thousands
+of pupils. After a time the missionaries extended their field of work,
+but were finally headed off by the Boers and forced back to Pretoria.
+It was then that Fran&ccedil;ois Coillard was placed in charge of the Leribe
+Mission. He pushed his way north amid hardships and danger, till made a
+prisoner by the Matebelis and dragged before their chief, Lo-Bengula.
+What the missionary and the ladies of his family suffered during the time
+they remained in the power of that terrible chief is a sad and painful
+story. They were at length released and ordered to leave the country.
+On reaching Shoshong, the capital of Bamanguato, Coillard determined to
+renew his efforts in another direction. So he struck out for the Baroze
+region, having first sent a request to King Lobossi for admission and
+countenance. It was while on this mission to the Upper Zambesi that Pinto
+met him and his family. Pinto says of him: “He and his wife had resided
+in<!--718.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_709" id="Page_709">709</a></span>
+Africa for twenty years. He is warmly attached to the aborigines,
+to whose civilization he has devoted his life. He is the best and
+kindest man I ever came across. To a superior intelligence he unites an
+indomitable will and the necessary firmness to carry out any enterprise,
+however difficult.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_708.jpg" width="600" height="385"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">INTERIOR OF THE COILLARD CAMP.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the south side of the Zambesi and north of latitude 24&deg;, Africa is
+divided from sea to sea into three distinct races. On the east are
+the Vatuas; between are the Matebelis, or Zulus; westward are the
+Bamanguatos. They are all sworn enemies. The king of the latter, at
+the time of Pinto’s visit was Khama, a Christian convert, educated by
+the English, a civilized man of intelligence and superior good sense.
+True, he usurped the throne, but he treated his family with leniency,
+and became the idol of his people. Unlike every other native governor
+in Africa, Khama was unselfish. He spent his wealth for his people, and
+encouraged all to labor, that they might grow rich in herds and flocks.
+And they were not only rich in cattle, but were fine agriculturists;
+fond, too, of out-door sports, being experts in the hunting of game, as
+the antelope, ostrich, giraffe, elephant, etc. Though a Portuguese and
+influenced by the Latin church, Pinto gives this account of missionary
+work in South Central Africa: “How is it that in the midst of so many
+barbarous peoples there should be one so different from the others? It is
+due, I firmly believe, to the English missionaries. If I do not hesitate
+to aver that the labors of many missionaries, and especially of many
+African missionaries, are sterile, or even worse, I am just as ready to
+admit, from the evidence of my own senses, that others yield favorable,
+or apparently favorable results.</p>
+
+<p>“Man is but fallible, and it is easy to conceive that when far removed
+from the social influences by which he has been surrounded from his
+infancy, lost, so to speak, amid the ignorant peoples of Africa, and
+inhabiting an inhospitable clime, his mind should undergo a remarkable
+change. This must be the general rule, which has, of course, its
+exceptions. The exceptions are the men who rest their faith on those
+‘blossoms of the soul’ which give comfort to the wrecked mariner and aid
+the monk to suffer martyrdom at the hands of those to whom he brings the
+blessings<!--720.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_711" id="Page_711">711</a></span>
+of civilization. They who possess these inestimable treasures
+may, if left to themselves, pursue their way and attain to a sublime
+end, but such are veritable exceptions. Flesh is weak, and weaker still
+is human spirit. Were it otherwise, we might dispense with laws and
+governments, and society would be organized on a different basis. The
+‘blossoms of the soul’ would suffice to govern the world.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_710.jpg" width="600" height="365"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AT HOME AFTER THE HUNT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>“The passions to which man is subject will often lead the missionary&mdash;but
+a man and with all a man’s weakness&mdash;to pursue a wrong course. The strife
+between Catholics and Protestants in the African missions is an example
+of this. The Protestant missionaries (I mean, of course, the bad ones)
+say to the negro. ‘The Catholic missionary is so poor he cannot even
+afford to buy a wife,’ and thus seek to injure him, for it is as great a
+crime to be poor in Africa as in Europe. On the other hand the Catholics
+leave no stone unturned to throw discredit on the Protestants. From this
+strife springs revolt, the real cause of mission barrenness, where so
+many beliefs are struggling for mastery. To the south of the tropics the
+country swarms with missionaries, and to the south of the tropics England
+is engaged in perpetual war with the native populations. It is because
+the evil labors of many undo the good labors of some.</p>
+
+<p>“Let us however, put aside the evil ones and speak only of the good. I
+have spoken of King Khama and his Bamanguato people. The king’s work
+was well done, but those who made it possible deserve more credit. The
+first workman in that field was Rev. Mr. Price, recently charged with the
+mission at Ujiji on Lake Tanganyika. The second was Rev. Mr. Mackenzie,
+the Kuruman missionary. The third was the Rev. Mr. Eburn, now among these
+people. It is with the utmost pleasure I cite these worthy names, and put
+them forward as noble examples to all workers in the fields of African
+civilization.”</p>
+
+<p>The above named Rev. Mr. Mackenzie took charge of the Kuruman mission
+in the Crown Colony of Bechuanaland in 1876, and his first work was to
+found and build a memorial institution to his predecessor, the lamented
+Dr. Moffat, for the education of native ministers. A fund of $100,000
+was subscribed in England for
+this<!--722.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_713" id="Page_713">713</a></span>
+purpose and soon a substantial set
+of structures arose as a witness to Dr. Wm. Mackenzie’s zeal and the
+profound respect in which Dr. Moffat was held.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_712.jpg" width="600" height="212"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">MOFFAT INSTITUTION&mdash;KURUMAN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Says the Rev. A. Boegner: “Basutoland has frequently been saved from the
+destruction of its nationality by the intervention of the missionaries,
+and the natives blessed their name. The result in respect to education
+is that we have 80 elementary schools, having together 4,666 pupils,
+besides the normal school and the higher girls’ school, with 30 or 40
+pupils, and 15 industrial, biblical, and theological school stations, 94
+out-stations, 19 missionaries, 176 native workers, 6,029 communicants and
+3,412 catechumens.”</p>
+
+<p>In Bechuanaland many of the tribes, especially the Batlapins and the
+Baralongs, have for several years past been favored with the means of
+religious instruction by the agents of the London and Wesleyan Missionary
+Societies. It was among these people that the celebrated Dr. Moffat
+achieved his greatest success, and it was into their language that he
+succeeded in translating the Scriptures. And it was from a station among
+them that Dr. Livingstone started on his first adventurous journey of
+discovery. Thousands of these people have been to a considerable extent
+civilized, evangelized, and many have been taught to read the word of
+God for themselves. The earliest attempt to carry the Gospel to the
+Bechuanas was made in 1800 by Messrs. Edwards and Kok, agents of the
+Dutch Missionary Society in Cape Town. It proved unsuccessful. They were
+succeeded by the travellers Lichenstein in 1805, and Burchell in 1812,
+and during the latter year by the well-known Rev. John Campbell, who may
+be regarded as the earliest pioneer missionary to the Bechuanas, the two
+agents of the Cape Town Society being known among the Batlapins rather
+as traders than missionaries. In accordance with a request made to Mr.
+Campbell by the chief Mothibi, who said, “Send missionaries, I will
+be a father to them,” the London Missionary Society appointed Messrs.
+Evans and Hamilton to Lallakoo, which they reached in 1816. Their hopes
+of a welcome were, however, doomed to disappointment. The Bechuanas,
+with Mothibi’s, consent, reyoked the wagons of the missionaries and
+sent them away, hooting after them in genuine heathen fashion. They did
+not want “the teaching,” fearing it would be with
+them<!--723.png--><span class="pagenum">714</span>
+as with the
+people of Griqua Town, “who” they said “once wore a ‘kaross’ but now
+wear clothes; once had two wives but now only one.” Mr. Robert Moffat
+made the next attempt to introduce the Gospel among these people and
+was more successful. We have not space to give even an outline of the
+career of this wonderful man. One illustration, however, will suffice to
+show at once his character and that of the people among whom he labored
+so long and well. During a time of severe drought when the heavens were
+as brass and the earth as iron, the cattle were dying rapidly, and the
+emaciated people were living on roots and reptiles. The rainmakers were
+consulted. They attributed the cause of the drought to the prayers of the
+missionaries, and to the bell of the chapel, which they said frightened
+the clouds! The chief soon appeared at the missionaries’ door, spear in
+hand, with twelve attendants, and ordered them to leave the country,
+threatening violent measures if they refused. Mrs. Moffat stood at
+her cottage door with a baby in her arms watching the result at this
+crisis. Looking the chief straight in the face, Moffat calmly replied:
+“We were unwilling to leave you. We are now resolved to stay at our
+post. As for your threats we pity you; for you know not what you do. But
+although we have suffered much, we do not consider that it amounts to
+persecution, and are prepared to expect it from those who know no better.
+If resolved to get rid of us you must take stronger measures to succeed,
+for our hearts are with you. You may shed my blood, or you may burn our
+dwelling; but I know you will not touch my wife and children. As for me,
+my decision is made. I do not leave your country.” Then throwing open
+his coat, he stood erect and fearless. “Now then,” he proceeded, “if
+you will, drive your spears to my heart; and when you have slain me, my
+companions will know that the hour is come for them to depart.” Turning
+to his attendants the chief said, “These men must have ten lives. When
+they are so fearless of death, there must be something of immortality.”
+All danger was now past. The intrepid missionary had got access to their
+hearts, and they were, for the time at least, subdued.</p>
+
+<p>The country long known as Griqualand is situated beyond the Orange river,
+and around its junction with the Vaal.</p>
+
+<p><!--724.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_715" id="Page_715">715</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 399px;">
+<img src="images/i_715.jpg" width="399" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">MOFFAT’S COURAGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--725.png--><span class="pagenum">716</span></p>
+
+<p>The Griquas are a mixed race, of which there are several clans vulgarly
+called “Bastards,” being the descendants of Dutch Boers and their
+Hottentot slaves. They are a tall, athletic, good looking race, of light
+olive complexion. They speak a debased <i>patois</i> of the Dutch language, as
+do most of the colored inhabitants of South Africa. About the year 1833
+the Griquas began to collect and settle in the country which bears their
+name, and to rally round a leader or chief named Adam Kok, who displayed
+considerable tact and skill in governing the people who acknowledged his
+chieftainship. Some time after, a part of the clan separated themselves
+from the rest, and gathered round a man named Waterboer, who became
+their captain or chief. Both of these chiefs, for many years, received
+annual grants from the Colonial Government on condition of their loyalty
+and good conduct. They and their people were ultimately removed by an
+arrangement with the government authorities to a region known as “No
+Man’s Land;” and of late years have become scattered. In all their
+locations they are generally now regarded as British subjects, and
+they have gradually advanced to a pleasing state of civilization and
+general knowledge. They are largely indebted to the missionaries for
+the respectable position to which they have attained among the native
+tribes. The honored instruments in their moral and social elevation have
+chiefly been the agents of the London Missionary Society who have labored
+among them for many years with remarkable energy, zeal and success. The
+Wesleyan Missionary Society have also some prosperous stations in some
+of the Griqua settlements where no other agencies are at work, and the
+results of their labors have been very encouraging.</p>
+
+<p>In Namaqualand, under circumstances of peculiar trial and privation
+the Wesleyan and Rhenish Societies have labored with commendable zeal
+and diligence. Some time ago the Wesleyan stations were by a mutual
+arrangement transferred to the German missionaries.</p>
+
+<p>In Damaraland missionaries have labored earnestly for many years, but the
+results thus far have been meagre.</p>
+
+<p>What has been the sum total accomplished by the missionary societies in
+South Africa?</p>
+
+<p>The Wesleyan Missionary Society began work there in
+1814.<!--726.png--><span class="pagenum">717</span>
+Extending its
+operations by degrees from the Cape Colony to Kaffaria, Natal, and the
+Bechuana regions, it now numbers forty stations, sixty missionaries, and
+more than 6,000 members. The Rhenish Society which commenced operations
+in this field in 1829, now numbers more than 10,000 members; and the
+Berlin, which commenced in 1833 and has 8,000 members. The American
+Board which entered the field in 1834, has grown into three missions,
+the Zulu, the East African and the West African, and now numbers 30
+stations, 48 laborers from America, more than 40 native assistants, about
+2,000 under instruction and 7,000 adherents. Besides these the French
+Society is doing a great work among the Bechuana and other tribes. The
+Norwegians are laboring among the Zulus, the Scotch among the Kafirs, the
+Hanoverians and the Church of England in Natal and Zululand.</p>
+
+<p>These with a few other organizations make more than a dozen societies at
+work in South Africa, occupying more than 200 stations, and employing
+about 500 foreign laborers, besides a much larger force of native
+helpers. Of the success and value of these labors we get some idea when
+we find it estimated that not less than 40,000 souls have been brought in
+this way into Christ’s kingdom, 50,000 children gathered into Christian
+schools, and 100,000 men and women blessed with the direct teaching of
+the Gospel.</p>
+
+<div class="center">EAST AFRICAN MISSIONS.</div>
+
+<p>Leaving South Africa we will now consider briefly what has been done
+by the missionaries in Eastern Africa and that part of Central Africa
+reached by way of the east coast. Here there seemed to be less opposition
+to the entrance of the Gospel than in some other parts of Africa.
+Dominant superstitions do not stand so much in the way of its reception.
+There is less idolatry or fetish worship, such as is found on the western
+coast, and there are fewer barbarous or unnatural rites. The greatest
+hindrance has been the Arab slave trade, which, driven from the west
+coast had established itself on the east coast. The unwise course of the
+Germans who established a commercial enterprise there in 1889 has led to
+Arab
+hostilities<!--728.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_719" id="Page_719">719</a></span>
+that appear disastrous in the extreme to missionary
+work for the present, especially among the Ugandas.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_718.jpg" width="600" height="359"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">LARI AND MADI NATIVES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There are very extensive missionary interests in East Africa. No less
+than thirteen societies are at work on the coast or in the interior. It
+will be more convenient, in considering what has been accomplished, to
+note the work done by each society separately, rather than to follow our
+usual order of treatment by tribe or locality.</p>
+
+<p>As the Church Missionary Society was first in the field we will notice
+its efforts first.</p>
+
+<p>The first missionary was Dr. Krapff, a zealous and devoted German. He
+had previously labored for several years among the Lari and Madi natives
+of the province of Shoa, and when the Abyssinian government prohibited
+his longer residence there he removed to Mombasa, where he laid the
+foundation of a new station under promising circumstances. When the way
+appeared to open up for usefulness among the Gallas and other important
+tribes, Dr. Krapff was joined by four additional laborers who were sent
+out by the society to aid him in his work. Their headquarters were at
+Kisulidini and the mission had every promise of success. But death soon
+thinned the ranks and disappointed many hopes. Only one of the missionary
+band, Mr. Rebmann, had strength to hold out against the climate. He
+remained at his solitary post of duty several years after the Doctor
+had been obliged to embark for Europe; but in 1856 he was driven by the
+hostile incursions of savage native tribes to take refuge in the island
+of Mombasa, and for two years the mission on the mainland seemed to be at
+an end. Mr. Rebmann resolved not to lose sight of its ruins, however, and
+employed his waiting time in preparing a translation of the Bible into
+the language of the people among whom he labored. At length the desire
+of the lonely missionary was gratified by a cordial invitation to return
+to Kisulidini, and the hearty welcome he received on going there proved
+that there was further work for him to do among this people. For years
+he labored single-handed among this people and managed to keep alive the
+spark of light which Dr. Krapff had been the means of kindling. After
+long and patient waiting relief came. The deep interest called forth by
+Dr.<!--729.png--><span class="pagenum">720</span>
+Livingstone’s last despatches and death, stirred up the church at
+home to fresh efforts on behalf of the African race, and a much needed
+reinforcement was sent out to strengthen the mission on the eastern
+coast, including Mr. Price and Jacob Wainwright, Livingstone’s faithful
+negro servant. When they arrived at Kisulidini they found Mr. Rebmann
+aged and feeble, and almost blind, but still the centre of a little
+band of native converts at the old mission premises. This mission now
+comprises eight stations with Mombasa as its base. The constituency at
+these stations is composed chiefly of liberated slaves, who are rescued
+by British cruisers from slave dhows and handed over to the mission, now
+living in comfort as free men, cultivating their own little plots of
+ground, building their own little huts on the society’s land, enjoying
+the rest of the Lord’s day, seeing their children taught to read and
+write like the white man, and having access at all times for counsel and
+guidance to patient and sympathizing Englishmen.</p>
+
+<p>Recently, their former masters combined and threatened to destroy the
+stations if their slaves were not given up. How this catastrophy was
+averted by the tact and generosity of Mr. Mackenzie the following will
+tell: “At Mombasa, Frere Town and Rabai, on the east coast of Africa, the
+English Church Missionary Society has for some time been carrying on a
+work similar to that which has been so greatly blessed at Sierra Leone
+and other places on the west coast. The natives who have been rescued
+from the Arab slave vessels by the British cruisers have been taken to
+the first-named towns, where they have been cared for and instructed by
+the missionaries of the society, and a large number of them have become
+new creatures in Christ Jesus, and are now diligent in tilling the soil
+or in following other industrial pursuits.</p>
+
+<p>“For several years fugitive slaves from the adjoining country have sought
+refuge at the mission stations from the oppressions of their Mohammedan
+masters. Every effort has been made by the missions to prevent mere
+runaways from settling around the stations; but it has lately been found
+that many who came and placed themselves under Christian teaching, and
+who were supposed to be free natives, were really fugitive slaves. Many
+of them have
+embraced<!--730.png--><span class="pagenum">721</span>
+Christianity, been baptized, and are leading
+‘quiet and peaceable lives in all godliness and honesty.’</p>
+
+<p>“Suddenly the former Mohammedan masters of the fugitives combined and
+threatened destruction to the missions unless they were given up again
+to slavery. It has been a time of great anxiety to the missionaries,
+and in this crisis they could only commit all to the Lord. Happily the
+danger has been averted by the wise and timely action of Mr. Mackenzie,
+the chief agent of the new Imperial British East Africa Company, whose
+headquarters are at Mombasa. Mr. Mackenzie saw that if the <i>r&eacute;gime</i>
+of this politico-commercial company began with the restoration of a
+thousand escaped slaves to the slave owners, its influence would be
+seriously injured. He has, therefore, undertaken to compensate the
+Arab slave-owners, on condition that the whole of this fugitive slave
+population, a large portion of which is Christian, are declared free
+forever. This arrangement has delighted all parties. A grand feast has
+been given by the Mohammedans to Mr. Mackenzie, while the slaves are set
+free and the missions are saved.”</p>
+
+<p>This society had also a line of stations stretching from Zanzibar to
+Uganda. They were nine in number, beginning with Mambola and Mpwapwa,
+nearly due west from Zanzibar, and including Usambiro, Msalala and Nasa,
+south of Victoria Nyanza, and Rubaga, in Uganda, north of the great lake.
+The origin of the mission in Uganda was on this wise: “When Stanley went
+away from Uganda, Mtesa, the king, said to him, ‘Stamee, say to the white
+people, when you write to them, that I am like a man sitting in darkness,
+or born blind, and that all I ask is that I may be taught how to see,
+then I shall continue a Christian while I live.’ Mtesa’s appeal, through
+Stanley, to English Christians, had its response. The Church Missionary
+Society sent several missionaries, who were heartily welcomed by Mtesa,
+and protected as long as he lived.”</p>
+
+<p>As public attention has recently, and for different reasons, been very
+generally directed to Uganda, it may not be amiss to give a more detailed
+account of the situation and prospects there.</p>
+
+<p>Near the shores of those majestic lakes&mdash;Albert and Victoria
+Nyanza&mdash;which give rise to the Nile, are large tribes, akin to one
+another in speech and habit, and quite advanced in civilization,
+as<!--731.png--><span class="pagenum">722</span>
+things go in Africa. They are the Baganda, Luganda and Uganda, all of
+which have been visited and described by Stanley and other well-known
+travellers. Of these, the Uganda are the most numerous and advanced. This
+region was for a long time looked upon as a fair field for missionary
+enterprise, irrespective of the fact that it had been an old and favorite
+stamping ground for Arab traders and slave dealers, whose influence would
+naturally be against Christian intervention. But in 1876, missionaries
+went out from England, and founded several missions, mostly in the Uganda
+country. They proved to be prosperous, and fast became the centres of
+Christian communities, whose influence was felt from one lake to the
+other. But after over ten years of prosperity, a civil war broke out,
+instigated by the Arabs, which resulted in the enthronement of Mwanga,
+who was hostile to the missionaries and their Christian converts. He
+signalized the first year of his reign by the murder of Bishop Hannington
+and the massacre of many of his Christian subjects. By 1889, all but one
+of this missionary band had perished either through disease or royal
+cruelty, and their converts were forced to become refugees. The survivor,
+Mr. Mackay, after being held as a hostage for months, was finally
+released, and made his escape to Usambiro, where he took up work with the
+hope that at no distant day he might be able to extend it back into the
+abandoned lake regions.</p>
+
+<p>In his “Emin Pasha in Central Africa,” Mr. R. W. Felkin thus sketches the
+character of the two great Uganda kings, Mtesa and Mwanga:</p>
+
+<p>“Mtesa was first heard of in Europe from Speke and Grant, who visited
+Uganda in 1862. He professed to trace back his descent to Kintu (or Ham)
+the founder of the dynasty. When I visited him in 1879 he was about
+45 years of age, a splendid man, some six feet high, well formed and
+strongly built. He had an oval face, and his features were well cut.</p>
+
+<p>“He had large, mild eyes, but if roused by anger or mirth they were lit
+up by a dangerous fire. He had lost the pure Mhuma features through
+admixture of Negro blood, but still retained sufficient characteristics
+of that tribe to prevent all doubt as to his origin. All his movements
+were very graceful; his hands
+were<!--732.png--><span class="pagenum">723</span>
+slender, well formed, and supple;
+he was generally dressed in a simple white Arab kaftan. It is somewhat
+difficult to describe his character; he was intensely proud, very
+egotistical, and, until near the end of his life, he thought himself to
+be the greatest king on earth. In his youth, and in fact until 1878,
+there is no doubt that he was cruel, but an illness from which he
+suffered certainly softened him.</p>
+
+<p>“His chiefs often said to me, ‘Oh, if Mtesa were well, there would be
+plenty of executions.’ It has been said that he was extremely changeable
+and fickle, and to superficial observers he was so; that is to say, as
+far as his intercourse with Europeans went. If, however, one looks a
+little deeper into his character, he finds that his apparent vacillation
+was overruled by a fixed idea, which was to benefit his people, increase
+his own importance, and to get as much as possible out of the strangers
+who visited his court. This explains his being one day a friend to the
+Arabs, on another to the Protestants, and on a third to the Catholics. A
+newcomer, especially if he had a large caravan, was always the favorite
+of the hour. It is not difficult for any one to enter Uganda, but to
+get away again is no easy task, unless he is going for a fresh supply
+of goods. Mtesa liked Europeans and Arabs to be present at his court;
+it gave him prestige, and he also wished his people to learn as much as
+they could from the white men, for he well knew and appreciated their
+superior knowledge. In manners he was courteous and gentlemanly, and he
+could order any one off to execution with a smile on his countenance. His
+mental capacity was of a very high order. He was shrewd and intelligent;
+he could read and write Arabic, and could speak several native languages.
+He had a splendid memory, and enjoyed a good argument very keenly. If he
+could only get Protestants, Catholics and Arabs to join in a discussion
+before him, he was in his element, and although apparently siding with
+one or other, who might happen to be at the time his especial favor, he
+took care to maintain his own ground, and I do not believe that he ever
+really gave up the least bit of belief in his old Pagan ideas. While too
+shrewd and intelligent to believe in the grosser superstitions which find
+credit among his people, he was yet so superstitious that if he dreamt
+of any of the gods of
+his<!--733.png--><span class="pagenum">724</span>
+country he believed it to be an ill omen, and
+offered human sacrifices to appease the anger of the offended deity.
+Shortly after I left Uganda, he dreamt of his father, and in consequence
+had 500 people put to death. He also believed that if he dreamt of
+any living person it was a sign that they meditated treachery, and he
+condemned them forthwith to death. This supposed power of divination is
+said to be hereditary in the royal race. In concluding my remarks about
+Mtesa, I may say that he denied his Wahuma origin; not only, however, did
+his features betray him, but many of the traditions he held regarding
+his ancestors, especially his descent from Ham, point conclusively to an
+origin in the old Christianity of Abyssinia.</p>
+
+<p>“When I was in Uganda, Mtesa had 200 or 300 women always residing at his
+court. He did not know exactly how many wives he had, but said that they
+certainly numbered 700. He had seventy sons and eighty-eight daughters.</p>
+
+<p>“Mwanga is the present king of Uganda, having been chosen by the three
+hereditary chiefs at the death of his father, Mtesa, and it is certainly
+to be attributed to the influence of the missionaries in Uganda, that the
+usual bloodshed which attends the succession to the throne in Uganda,
+did not take place. On ascending the throne he was about 16 years of
+age, and up to that time had been a simple, harmless youth, but his high
+position soon turned his head, and he became suspicious, abominably cruel
+and really brutal. He began to drink and to smoke <i>bang</i>, and up to the
+present time his rule has been characterized by tyranny and bloodshed,
+far surpassing anything that happened in his father’s time. Nor does he
+appear to possess those good characteristics which certainly caused his
+father to deserve some respect. A number of Christians, Protestants and
+Catholics have been tortured and burned at the stake by his orders, and
+Bishop Hannington was murdered by his command at Lubwa, on the borders of
+Uganda.”</p>
+
+<p>A writer in the <i>N. Y. Evangelist</i> observes further:</p>
+
+<p>“Of course, Mwanga was a coward as well as a cruel and bloodstained
+despot. Because he made Uganda impenetrable, no direct news from Wadelai
+about the movements of Stanley or Emin Pasha could reach Zanzibar. Very
+naturally he was obliged to
+face<!--734.png--><span class="pagenum">725</span>
+an insurrection. To save his worthless
+life he fled from his kingdom, and his older brother, Kiwewa, succeeded
+him. Because under his rule the missionaries were again in favor, Kiwewa
+was soon forced to abdicate before an insurrection incited by the Arabs,
+whom the policy of his brother had brought into the kingdom, and in
+which such of his own subjects who opposed the missionaries cheerfully
+participated. While about a score of missionaries escaped unharmed,
+all missionary property was destroyed, many native missionaries were
+murdered, the Arabs became dominant in Uganda, and the kingdom, it
+may be for several years, is closed against Christianity. The living
+missionaries have quite recently been ransomed.</p>
+
+<p>“What is to be the influence of this new Arab kingdom in Central Africa?
+This, with many, is a pressing question. In answering it we must remember
+that these so-called Arabs really have in their veins no Arab blood. They
+are coast Arabs of the lowest classes, and the proud and strong Uganda
+chiefs will not submit for any considerable length of time to the rule
+of any such men. They may use such men; they will never become their
+slaves. The country is more likely to be broken up into hostile sections.
+These may wear themselves out in wars against each other, and thus may be
+realized the hope that the British East African Company, from their new
+territory between Victoria Nyanza and the coast, would push its influence
+and its operations over Uganda, and the whole lake region of Central
+Africa. These Arab slave-traders are certainly not the men to construct
+or reconstruct an empire. Those who know them best see no prospect that
+they will be able by intrigue, which is their only agency, to sustain
+themselves in Uganda.</p>
+
+<p>“The character and habits of the Uganda people seem to forbid their
+enslavement. They are the only people in Central Africa that clothe
+themselves from head to foot. Besides their own ingenious utensils for
+housekeeping, the chase and war, thousands of European weapons and
+implements are found in their possession, and being ready workers in
+iron, they immediately imitate what they import. They are apt linguists,
+and their children have rapidly acquired the French and English languages
+from the missionaries. They have neither idols nor fetishes. They have
+no
+affiliations<!--735.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_726" id="Page_726">726</a></span>
+with Mohammedanism, and are not likely to become its
+subjects for any considerable time. There is still good reason to hope
+for a better future for Uganda.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/i_726.jpg" width="450" height="393"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">TINDER-BOX, FLINT AND STEEL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The London Missionary Society has ever been forward to enter new fields
+of labor. On Livingstone’s return to England, after his great journey
+across the continent of Africa in 1856, he urged this society, in whose
+service he had previously been engaged, to establish a mission on the
+banks of the Zambesi, with a tribe of natives known as the Makololo,
+with the view of reaching other tribes in the interior through them. A
+mission was organized accordingly, which was to start from the Cape of
+Good Hope direct for the interior. This journey was to be made in the
+usual South African style, namely, in wagons drawn by long teams of oxen.
+Livingstone himself went round by the eastern coast, purposing to meet
+the missionaries in the valley of the Zambesi, and to introduce them
+to the chiefs with whom he was personally acquainted. The missionaries
+selected for this purpose were Revs. Helmore and Price, the first of whom
+was a middle-aged minister, with a wife and
+family,<!--737.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_728" id="Page_728">728</a></span>
+and had labored in
+South Africa for several years previously, whilst Mr. Price was a young
+man recently married, and was entering upon mission work for the first
+time. The incidents of the journey, as well as the issue of this mission
+were the most afflictive and distressing. The mission wagons had scarcely
+passed the boundary of the Cape Colony when water and grass for the oxen
+became scarce, and their progress was accordingly slow and dreary. Many
+of their oxen died and their places were supplied with difficulty by
+cattle purchased from the natives. When they came to cross the outskirts
+of the desert of Kalahara their sufferings were terrible. They at length
+reached the valley of the Zambesi where they had an ample supply of grass
+and water; but they soon found themselves in a low, swampy, unhealthy
+country, and when they reached their destination in the Makololo country,
+they did not meet with the cordial reception from the chief and his
+people which they expected. Dr. Livingstone, who was engaged in exploring
+the lower branches of the Zambesi was moreover unable to meet them as he
+intended. They naturally became discouraged; and before they got anything
+done of consequence in the way of teaching the people, the chief still
+withholding his consent to their movements, the country fever broke
+out among them with fearful violence. Mr. Helmore’s four children, who
+suffered so much from thirst in the desert, were smitten down one after
+another and died. They were buried but a short time when graves were made
+beside them for both their parents. Mr. and Mrs. Price began to think of
+retracing their steps to the Cape Colony, and at length with heavy hearts
+they yoked the oxen to the wagons and started toward civilization. But in
+crossing the desert Mrs. Price also died, so that Mr. Price was left to
+return alone.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_727.jpg" width="600" height="380"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">BOUND FOR THE INTERIOR DURING THE RAINY SEASON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In 1877 in response to an application made by the son and successor of
+the chief in Makololo, the Rev. J. D. Hepburn, of Shoshong, and outpost
+of the Bechuana mission, commenced a mission on Lake Ngami, two native
+evangelists who had completed their studies at Kuruman were settled there
+and are doing good work.</p>
+
+<p>The London Society goes further west than any of the other societies
+and plants two stations on Lake Tanganyika, and one
+at<!--738.png--><span class="pagenum">729</span>
+Urambo in the
+Unyamwezi, south of the Victoria Nyanza and near the stations of the
+Church Missionary Society.</p>
+
+<p>The Universities’ Mission has twelve stations, one in Zanzibar, four in
+the Usambara country north of Zanzibar, four on or near the river Rovuma
+and three on the east shore of Lake Nyassa.</p>
+
+<p>The mission of the Free Church of Scotland on the shores of Lake Nyassa
+was founded in 1861 by Rev. Dr. James Stewart. Reinforcements were sent
+out in 1875. They took with them the steam launch Llala to be used upon
+the waters of Lake Nyassa. In 1876 Dr. Wm. Black, an ordained medical
+missionary, an agriculturist, an engineer, and a weaver, joined them. In
+1879 Miss Watterston joined the staff, as female medical missionary and
+superintendent of the girls’ boarding and training school. In 1880 they
+met with a great loss in the death of their agriculturist, John Gunn, who
+had proved himself helpful in every department of work.</p>
+
+<p>The Free Church of Scotland has recently opened a new mission at Malinda,
+on the high plain north of Lake Nyassa. The station is surrounded by
+seventeen villages, embosomed in gardens of magnificent bananas. At
+Karonga two services are held every Sabbath, and the congregation numbers
+600 natives. Dr. Cross attempted to push his work into the highlands,
+but was driven back, and compelled to rely on Capt. Lugard’s armed force
+of 150 natives. These aggressive movements against the missions in
+Nyassaland, as elsewhere, are attributable to Arab slave traders, who are
+the worst enemies Christianity has to contend with in Africa. They now
+have five stations on Lake Nyassa.</p>
+
+<p>The Established Church of Scotland Mission was founded in 1875 by
+Mr. Henry Henderson. The staff comprised a medical missionary, an
+agriculturist, a blacksmith, a carpenter, a joiner and a seaman and
+boatbuilder. To Mr. Henderson belongs the credit of having selected an
+incomparable site. It was originally intended that the mission should be
+planted in the neighborhood of Lake Nyassa; but he found a more suitable
+locality in the highlands above the Shir&eacute;, east of the cataracts, and
+midway between Magomero and Mount Soch&eacute;. The ground rises from the river
+in a succession of terraces. It is about 3,000 feet above the sea, and
+extends from twelve to fifteen miles in breadth. Gushing
+springs<!--739.png--><span class="pagenum">730</span>
+and
+flowing streams abound. The scenery is beautiful and picturesque. The
+soil is fertile. There is abundance of good timber and iron ore. The
+chiefs are friendly and the people are willing to receive instruction.
+And, what is an essential requisite, the climate is in a high degree
+salubrious. In the words of Livingstone, “it needs no quinine.”</p>
+
+<p>The settlement, which is named Blantyre, after Livingstone’s birth-place,
+was planned and laid out under the superintendence of Dr. Stewart and Mr.
+James Stewart. On the farm and gardens surrounding, over 500 natives of
+both sexes are employed. Mr. Henderson having returned, on the completion
+of the special work for which he was appointed, Rev. Duff Macdonald and
+wife were sent out in 1878. They were soon after recalled on account
+of difficulties arising from the mission’s claim to exercise civil
+jurisdiction over the settlement. Rev. David Clement Scott was appointed
+to take their place.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most important works in connection with Livingstonia, the
+name of the Free Church of Scotland’s Mission, and Blantyre Mission, was
+the formation of a road, projected by Dr. Stewart and surveyed by Mr.
+J. Stewart. It varies from six to ten feet in width, and extends from
+the Upper Shir&eacute;, at the head of the cataracts, for a distance of about
+thirty-five miles to Blantyre, and thence for nearly an equal distance
+through a steep and rugged country to Ramakukan’s, at the foot of the
+cataract. Facilities are thus afforded for communication with the coast.
+The expense of its construction was borne equally by the two missions. A
+traveller who has frequently visited this region writes as follows:</p>
+
+<p>“The outlet for the waters of Lake Nyassa is the river Shir&eacute; which
+flows into the Zambesi. Except for a short distance in one part, this
+river is navigable throughout its course; and at about sixty or seventy
+miles after it leaves the lake it takes a bend westward, and here below
+Matope, a station of the African Lakes Company, it becomes unnavigable
+by reason of the Murchison Cataracts. Below these is another station of
+the African Lakes Company at Katunga’s, and from here there is no further
+difficulty in navigating the river. All goods, therefore, and passengers
+bound for Nyassa, are landed from the African Lakes Company’s steamer
+at<!--740.png--><span class="pagenum">731</span>
+Katunga’s, and after a journey of some seventy miles across a ridge of
+high ground are put on the river again at Matope. About half-way between
+Katunga’s and Matope is the African Lakes Company’s store and settlement
+at Mandala, and little more than a mile from it the flourishing mission
+village of Blantyre of the Established Church of Scotland. It is
+wonderful to see this village, with its gardens, schools, and houses, in
+the midst of Africa. The writer has twice, within the last three years,
+when visiting Nyassa, experienced the generous hospitality of Mandala
+and Blantyre, and so can speak from his own personal observation. Being
+situated on such high ground, the climate is much more favorable to
+Europeans than at most mission stations in that region. It is easier
+also, for the same reason, to grow fruits and vegetables imported from
+Europe. It is difficult to overestimate the effect of such a settlement
+as a civilizing agency in the country. Mr. Hetherwick, who was in charge
+of the station for some time in Mr. Scott’s absence, has mastered the
+language of the great Yao tribe, and has lately published a translation
+of St. Matthew’s Gospel, which shows a wonderful grasp of the genius of
+the language. Mr. Hetherwick has now returned to his mission station,
+some fifty miles to the northeast, under Mount Zomba. Mr. Scott is
+said to be equally a master of Chinyanja, the language of the Nyassa
+tribes. The English government have recognized the important influence
+these settlements are likely to have by appointing a consul on Nyassa,
+who has lately built a house close to the flourishing coffee and sugar
+plantations of Mr. Buchanan under Mount Zomba, about forty miles from
+Blantyre, and near Lake Kilwa or Shirwa. Mr. Buchanan is also a good
+Yao scholar, and takes care to teach the people, who come to him in
+considerable numbers for employment. Situated high up on the slope of
+Mount Zomba, which rises precipitously above it, the streams which rush
+down from its summit are diverted and distributed so as to form a system
+of irrigation. Mr. Buchanan’s plantation is a picture of beauty and
+prosperity, and offers every prospect of health and permanence.</p>
+
+<p>“When we come to Lake Nyassa, we find missions established on each
+side of the lake. On the west side are the stations at Cape Maclear
+and Bandawe, while connected with the latter are
+sub-stations,<!--741.png--><span class="pagenum">732</span>
+among
+which is an important mission to the Angoni, a marauding tribe of Zulu
+origin. Dr. Laws, at Bandawe, has been a long time in the country, and
+has thoroughly won the confidence of the people. On one occasion, when
+the writer visited him, some five or six hundred people assembled in
+his schools, in which large numbers of children are taught daily. The
+Universities’ Missions are on the east side of the lake.”</p>
+
+<p>The United Methodist Free Churches in 1863 began a mission at Rib&eacute;,
+about eighteen miles north of Mombasa. The ministers selected for this
+service were the Revs. New and Wakefield. For several years they were
+engaged in preparatory work, erecting buildings, cultivating garden
+grounds, exploring the country, learning the native language, preparing
+translations, teaching school, and preaching as they had opportunity.
+Their difficulties were numerous and their progress slow. The unhealthy
+character of the climate here, as on the western coast, is the greatest
+hindrance to the progress of the work. Rev. C. New fell a sacrifice to
+its fatal influence in 1876, and Mrs. Wakefield died later, but others
+have taken their places. They now have two stations in the Mombasa
+District, Rib&eacute; and Joursee and one in Gallaland.</p>
+
+<p>Several German societies are also represented in East Africa. The New
+Kirchen Society has had since 1887 a station at Ngao, on the Tana in
+the Suabali country, with two missionaries. The Evangelical Lutheran
+Missionary Society of Bavaria has stations at Junba, and at Mbangu among
+the Wakamba, six hours inland, with three missionaries. The Berlin
+Society have stations at Zanzibar and Dar-es-Salam where one of the
+massacres took place.</p>
+
+<p>The Roman Catholics&mdash;French and German&mdash;have several stations in East
+Africa. The French have three stations on or near Lake Victoria Nyanza,
+the most important of which is the one in Uganda under Pere Lourdel; two
+at Lake Tanganyika; one at Bagamoya, west of Zanzibar, and one or two
+others. The Jesuits have also a few stations, and the German Catholics
+have one at Dar-es-Salam. These are all the societies at work in East
+Africa. As we look at their achievements, to human ken they do not appear
+commensurate with what they have cost. We do not mean of course in money,
+though that has been great, one society
+alone<!--742.png--><span class="pagenum">733</span>
+having spent $500,000,
+but in the sacrifice of human health and human lives. Four bishops,
+Mackenzie, Steere, Hannington, Parker, and a great army of missionaries,
+some of them nobly and highly-gifted men, have given up their lives for
+East Africa. We can but reverence the heroism which has led them forth
+to die in a strange land. The apparent results are meagre and even some
+of these seem likely to be destroyed; but we dare not say their lives
+have been needlessly wasted. In human warfare when a fortress has to be
+stormed, does the knowledge of the fact that many of the flower of his
+army will perish in the attempt, cause the general to hesitate? Do the
+soldiers refuse to obey the command, because the undertaking is fraught
+with danger? Were they to do so they would be branded as cowards. East
+Africa is a part of the world and Christ’s command surely includes the
+taking of such almost impregnable fortresses as frown upon his soldiers
+in that dark region. Then, too, the time has been short; great results
+may follow in the future the work that has already been done.</p>
+
+<p>We have not written anything concerning missionary work in the Soudan
+simply because nothing has been done in that vast region. Dr. Guinness
+says of it: “The Soudan is the true home of the negro, a vaster region
+than the Congo, which is 4,000 miles across, with its twelve nations,
+and not a mission station. It is the last region of any magnitude
+unpenetrated by the Gospel.” Through Dr. Guinness’ influence a number
+of the most active workers in the Y. M. C. A., in Kansas, Nebraska and
+Minnesota have decided to be pioneers in this densely populated part
+of Africa. They propose to enter, by the way of Liberia and the Kong
+mountains, the Soudan of the Niger and Lake Tchad, where are nearly
+100,000,000 of people without a missionary. They mean to form a living
+tie between that region and their associations and churches at home.</p>
+
+<p>We have followed the footsteps of the missionaries over all the Dark
+Continent only stopping to note the most important of their achievements.
+Their sacrifices have been recorded and will not be forgotten. Though
+their sufferings have been great, they have been of short duration, for
+Africa seems to be the “short cut” to the skies.</p>
+
+<p>We close our account of missionary work in Africa with the
+following<!--743.png--><span class="pagenum">734</span>
+from Mr. Grant: “The successes of the past, the openings of the present,
+and the demand for the future, should awaken a redoubled devotion to
+the blessed work. In no age of the world, in no history of continents,
+can anything be found so surprising as the discoveries and developments
+made in Africa since the days of those pioneer missionaries, Schmidt and
+Vanderkemp. It would take long to tell how her bays have been sounded
+since their time, how her plains have been spanned, her mountains scaled,
+her rivers threaded, lakes discovered, diamonds found, and a goodly
+number of grand highways projected into even the remotest parts of that,
+till of late little known, yet most marvelous land of the sun; and all
+under the gracious ordering of the Lord, that men freighted with the
+blessings of the Gospel of God’s own dear Son might enter and occupy.
+Ethiopia, all Africa, is on tiptoe of expectancy, only waiting to know
+who God is, that she may stretch out her hands to Him, and be lifted into
+His truth and grace.”</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><!--744.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_735" id="Page_735">735</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>
+AFRIC’S LIGHTS AND SHADOWS.
+</h2>
+
+<h3>
+ARNOT IN CENTRAL AFRICA.
+</h3>
+
+<p>“My idea of Africa had been that of a land very much desert, or else
+marshy and almost uninhabitable. But here was a region rich, fertile
+and beautiful, well watered, and, better still, with many people living
+all along the banks of the rivers. Of course, we had varied kinds of
+receptions. At one place, among the Bakuti, it was very remarkable how
+the people seemed to open their ears and hearts and gave their time. I
+spent ten days among them. The first five I went among their villages,
+having large meetings. As I could speak a dialect which many of them
+understood, I could explain myself quite freely to them. They became
+very much interested in what they heard me say, and they said among
+themselves: ‘We are only tiring the white man out by coming day after
+day to our villages; we will go to him.’ So, for the last five days they
+gathered together, and we had all-day meetings&mdash;a most extraordinary
+time, I might say, for Africa. They kept up the discussions among
+themselves, and before I left at least two of the men stood up in the
+midst of their tribe and declared for Jesus before all their friends, in
+their own simple language.</p>
+
+<p>“We had to leave these people, and went on traveling from day to day. At
+one point we had rather a different reception. We had pitched our camp
+in the midst of long grass. Toward evening, as we were getting things
+in order, we found the grass round our camp was on fire. As soon as the
+men succeeded in extinguishing the flames eight of them were missing.
+Then we understood an enemy had surrounded us, set the grass on fire,
+and carried off all the stragglers. There was nothing to do but to find
+their trail and follow them up. After a ten-miles’ journey we reached a
+little village in the forest where they were resting. They thought we
+had<!--745.png--><span class="pagenum">736</span>
+come to fight with them, and they rushed out with their guns, bows and
+arrows, and spears, to receive us. My men, thirty or forty in number,
+being only Africans, got into fighting order and began to load their guns
+for action. I was a little way behind, and did not take in the situation
+at once. Seeing how things were going, I ran forward, seized a little
+stool, and held it up in the air as a signal of peace. This arrested the
+enemy, and at last two of them came forward to hear what I had to say.
+After a little talk it turned out that the whole thing was a mistake.
+They thought we had come to their country to rob and plunder them, and
+quite naturally, in self-defense, they wished to have the first hit at
+us. Next day we spent the time in receiving presents and telling them of
+the things we had been speaking to the people all along the road.</p>
+
+<p>“At another point on the journey there was a chief who had heard about
+the things of God. He was intensely interested in the reports, and he
+came himself, to see me. Before we had time to settle down to speak,
+he said: ‘All the huntsmen have been called in; the women are in from
+the fields; we are all here, and we want you at once to begin your
+conversation with us about the Great Spirit and those things you have
+been talking of along the road.’ After talking with them for some hours,
+the chief asked me to go with him to their village. He said there were
+some old people there who could not come down to hear me with the others,
+he wanted me very much to go and see them. I went up to the village and
+conversed with these poor old broken-down people, one after another, and
+it was most touching. They shook hands with me and looked me in the face
+with such a look! Some of them were too old to understand the things I
+had been telling to the younger people; they could only look wistfully at
+me and shake me by the hand. It reminded me of an old man I had spoken
+with on the upper Zambesi. After leaving my hut he came back to the door
+and said: ‘It is so strange for me to hear these things for the first
+time, and I so old.’ Truly, it must strike them strangely. There are
+many physical difficulties connected with travel in Africa, and I would
+be the last to urge any particular individual to go out there. But there
+are no difficulties in the preaching of the Word. As soon as you learn a
+little of the language you can have all
+the<!--746.png--><span class="pagenum">737</span>
+attention of the people and
+all their time. I may say, in going among them, it is important to get
+some standing at their native courts. I have always taken the place of an
+ambassador from another country, and have demanded from them a hearing.
+This is the surest way of getting the attention, not only of the chief,
+but of all the people.”</p>
+
+<h3>
+KILLED BY AN ELEPHANT.
+</h3>
+
+<p>“A sad termination of an heroic defender of a righteous cause, was the
+death of Mr. Deane, the recent chief of Stanley Falls Station, Congo
+State. Capt. Coquilhat, one of Mr. Stanley’s faithful coadjutors in
+founding the State of Congo, gives, in his official report, the following
+statement: ‘In August last (1887), a female slave escaped from the Arab
+camp at Stanley Falls, and sought refuge in the Congo State Station
+there. Her surrender was demanded and refused. The Arabs were very angry,
+and made threats of war, which Mr. Deane disregarded. The slave-hunters
+had about 2,000 troops, while the garrison of the station numbered about
+fifty. The steamer Stanley then arrived, and the Arabs kept quiet till
+she left; but, the day after her departure, they attacked the station
+without warning, and, in course of three days, made four attacks, which
+were repulsed, the garrison losing two men and the Arabs sixty. At the
+end of the third day, the Haussa soldiers and the Bangalas refused to
+fight longer, as their rifle ammunition was spent.’ [The Haussas are
+native soldiers hired by the Congo State. They come from near Acra, on
+the Gulf of Guinea. The Bangalas belong to a desperate and warlike tribe,
+that fought Stanley on his first trip down the Congo.] ‘So these native
+soldiers took to their canoes at nightfall on the 26th of August, and
+went down the river. Mr. Deane and Mr. Dubois, the only white men in
+the garrison, remained behind with eight men to fire the buildings and
+destroy the stores. This they did, blowing up the two cannon and the
+remaining gunpowder, and then escaped themselves from the island, on
+which the station was located, to the north bank of the Congo, and made
+their way along its bank on foot, in the dark. On their way, the banks
+being
+very<!--747.png--><span class="pagenum">738</span>
+steep, Dubois fell into the river. Mr. Deane jumped in after
+him, and succeeded in getting him on to a rock; but poor Dubois was
+drowned in attempting to get from the rock to the mainland. Deane sought
+refuge among the natives, and found them most friendly. They showed him
+great devotion, taking him from one place of shelter to another, hiding
+him from the Arabs, supplying him with food, and keeping him till he was
+rescued.’ The Haussas and Bangalas arrived in their canoes at Bangala
+Station, where Capt. Coquilhat was stationed as Commander-in-Chief of
+that department, on September 7th. The captain at once went up in the
+steamer Henry Reed, then in the service of the Congo Government, and,
+finding the Stanley Falls Station in ruins and in the hands of the Arabs,
+he went in search of Mr. Deane, and after three days of diligent inquiry,
+found him, and rescued him from the fury of the Arabs.</p>
+
+<p>“It is sad to relate, as I learn from Bradley L. Burr, our chief
+missionary at Kimpoko, Stanley Pool, that recently Mr. Deane, in an
+elephant hunt, was charged and killed by an Upper Congo elephant.</p>
+
+<p>“Those who brave the perils of Africa ought always to be prepared to die.
+The destruction of the Arab slave trade, and the redemption of Africa,
+will cost the lives of more than 1,000 missionary heroes and heroines.
+People who want to run home from Africa before they see the elephant had
+better go to Barnum’s show and stay at home.” <span class="smcap">Wm. Taylor</span>.</p>
+
+<h3>
+THE AFRICAN PUFF ADDER.
+</h3>
+
+<p>“It is essentially a forest animal, its true habitat being among the
+fallen leaves in the deep shade of the trees by the banks of streams.
+Now, in such a position, at the distance of a foot or two, its appearance
+so exactly resembling the forest bed as to be almost indistinguishable
+from it. I was once just throwing myself under a tree to rest, when
+stooping to clear the spot, I noticed a peculiar pattern among the
+leaves. I started back in horror to find a puff adder of the largest
+size, its thick back only visible and its fangs only a few inches from
+my face as I stooped. It was lying
+concealed<!--748.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_739" id="Page_739">739</a></span>
+among fallen leaves so
+like itself that but for the exceptional caution which in African
+travel becomes a habit, I should certainly have sat down on it, and
+to sit down on a puff adder is to sit down for the last time. I think
+this semi-somnolent attitude is not always the mere attitude of repose.
+This reptile lay lengthwise concealed, all but a few inches, among the
+withered leaves. Now, the peculiarity of the puff adder is that he
+strikes backward. Lying on the ground, therefore, it commands as it were,
+its whole rear, and the moment any part is touched the head doubles
+backward with inconceivable swiftness, and the poison fangs close on
+their victim. The puff adder in this way forms a sort of horrid trap set
+in the woods, which may be altogether unperceived till it shuts with a
+sudden spring on its prey.” <span class="smcap">Henry Drummond</span>.</p>
+
+<h3>
+THE KASAI REGION.
+</h3>
+
+<p>“I have been here a month, and I am far from regretting my new residence.
+Luluaburg resembles none of the other State stations. This is the country
+of plantations, of cattle, of large undulated hills covered with short
+grass. We lead here rather the life of the Boers (farmers) than that of
+the Congo.</p>
+
+<p>“We break bulls to ride, and they are as valuable as horses. They
+are sometimes vicious enough, but one becomes accustomed to that.
+Nevertheless, a horse could never do what a bull does: swim the rivers,
+climb the most rugged hills, and descend the steepest slopes with an
+admirable surety of foot and peerless vigor.</p>
+
+<p>“I have broken for my service a huge chestnut bull; he travels very well,
+and you would be astonished to see me on that beast overleap obstacle at
+a gallop, as easily as the best horse of the course.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_740.jpg" width="600" height="353"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">TRAVEL ON BULL-BACK TO NATIVE ESCORT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>“We have already thirty animals at the station. Every day we have butter
+and cheese. Mr. Puissant has charge of the dairy, and he performs his
+work well.</p>
+
+<p>“As to the natives of the region, they are much the best negroes I know.
+In short, I am greatly pleased here, and am never sick.”</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Legat, who sends this news, is the veteran of the Congo
+State<!--750.png--><span class="pagenum">741</span>
+agents. He was of the party of 1881, and has not left the country since
+that epoch.</p>
+
+<h3>
+A LITTLE CONGO HERO.
+</h3>
+
+<p>On the Congo, near the equator, live the Bengala, with whom the explorer,
+Stanley, had his hardest battle when he floated down the great river.
+They are the most powerful and intelligent of the Upper Congo natives,
+and since Capt. Coquilhat, four years ago, established a station in their
+country they have become good friends of the whites. A while ago an
+exciting event occurred in one of their many villages, and Essalaka, the
+chief, went to Capt. Coquilhat to tell him about it.</p>
+
+<p>“You know the big island near my town,” he said. “Well, yesterday, soon
+after the sun came up, one of my women and our little boy started for the
+island in a canoe. The boy is some dozen of moons old. (Capt. Coquilhat
+says about twelve years old.) He said that while his mother was paddling
+she saw something in the water, and leaned over to look at it. Then he
+saw a crocodile seize his mother and drag her out of the canoe. Then the
+crocodile and the woman sank out of sight.</p>
+
+<p>“The paddle was lying in the canoe. The boy picked it up to paddle
+back to the village. Then he thought, ‘Oh, if I could only scare the
+crocodile and get mother back!’ He could tell by the moving water where
+the crocodile was. He was swimming under the surface toward the island.
+Then the boy followed the crocodile just as fast as he could paddle. Very
+soon the crocodile reached the island and went out on land. He laid the
+woman’s body on the ground. Then he went back into the river and swam
+away. You know why he did this. He wanted his mate and started out to
+find her.</p>
+
+<p>“Then the little boy paddled fast to where his mother was lying. He
+jumped out of the boat and ran to her. There was a big wound in her
+breast. Her eyes were shut. He felt sure she was dead. He is strong,
+but he could not lift her. He dragged her to the canoe. He knew the
+crocodile might come back at any moment and kill him, too. He used all
+his strength. Little by little
+he<!--751.png--><span class="pagenum">742</span>
+got his mother’s body into the canoe.
+Then he pushed away from the shore and started home.</p>
+
+<p>“We had not seen the boy and his mother at all. Suddenly we heard
+shouting on the river, and we saw the boy paddling as hard as he could.
+Every two or three strokes he would look behind. Then we saw a crocodile
+swimming fast toward the canoe. If he reached it you know what he would
+do. He would upset it with a blow, and both the boy and his mother would
+be lost.</p>
+
+<p>“Eight or nine of us jumped into canoes and started for the boy. The
+crocodile had nearly overtaken the canoe, but we reached it in time. We
+scared the crocodile away, and brought the canoe to the shore. The boy
+stepped out on the ground and fell down. He was so frightened and tired.
+We carried him into one of my huts, and took his mother’s body in there,
+too. We thought she was dead.</p>
+
+<p>“But after a little while she opened her eyes. She could whisper only
+two or three words. She asked for the boy. We laid him beside her on her
+arm. She stroked him two or three times with her hand. But she was hurt
+so badly. Then she shut her eyes and did not open them or speak again.
+Oh! how the little boy cried. But he had saved his mother’s body from the
+crocodile.”</p>
+
+<p>As Essalake told this story the tears coursed down his cheek. “I have
+seen in this savage tribe,” writes Capt. Coquilhat, “men and their wives
+who really love each other, and veritable honeymoons among young couples.
+The child feels for his father the fear and respect which his authority
+inspires, but he truly loves his mother and has a tender interest in her
+even after he becomes a man.”</p>
+
+<h3>
+FORMER OBSTACLES REMOVED.
+</h3>
+
+<p>“Missionaries who go to Africa now, may think they have a hard time, but
+they can know but little of the obstacles in the way of the pioneers,
+and it will be profitable to notice a few of the things which hindered
+the marked success of missionaries fifty years ago, that are now largely
+removed.</p>
+
+<p>“(1) The terrible <i>slave trade</i> prevailed all along the western coast,
+from the Gambia to Loanda. These foreign traders
+hated<!--752.png--><span class="pagenum">743</span>
+the missionary
+and did all they could to keep him out, well knowing that the two could
+not dwell together. They said to the kings where I labored, respecting my
+predecessor who began the mission in a nest of slave traders: ‘If you do
+not drive that man from the country, <i>we will have to leave</i>,’</p>
+
+<p>“They prejudiced the natives against the missionary, by lies and
+misrepresentation; they demoralized them by the rum, guns and powder,
+which they paid for slaves. They induced and encouraged internal wars for
+the purpose of securing prisoners to be sold as slaves.</p>
+
+<p>“By these means, large districts of the country were devastated (as
+I have seen), a disregard of human rights and life fostered, and a
+prevailing desire for rum and self-indulgence generally created.</p>
+
+<p>“Thus, when the missionaries came they did not appreciate them, or their
+work. They only cared for what slave-traders brought them.</p>
+
+<p>“And as they held the <i>coasts</i>, the missionaries could not reach the
+interior. They must <i>begin</i> on the low, sickly coasts, amid such
+unfavorable surroundings, or do nothing. My predecessor desired and
+planned to locate in the interior, but the way was thus blockaded. And so
+all along the coast.</p>
+
+<p>“But now that obstacle is removed; the country is open, and missionaries
+can go where they chose a field, and find a people ready to receive them.</p>
+
+<p>“(2) The <i>ignorance</i> of the people was a bar to progress. They did not
+understand the objects of the missionary, nor the difference between
+missionaries and traders. So, when missionaries went to Ujiji, the people
+began to bring them slaves to sell, knowing of no other motive they could
+have in coming to their country.</p>
+
+<p>“And, in other places, they have welcomed a mission because it brought
+trade to their country. And, looking upon missionaries as traders, they
+once had to pay rent for the privilege of living in the country as
+traders. Thus my predecessor had to agree to pay $100 a year (in gold)
+that he might have a place to preach and teach their children. And he had
+to feed, clothe and provide everything for the children. And this I did
+for six years after him. We were willing to do this till they learned the
+value of education and
+the<!--753.png--><span class="pagenum">744</span>
+Gospel, and that we might prepare <i>native</i>
+teachers. And, besides, we had to make many presents, because we had
+their children!</p>
+
+<p>“So it was forty years ago; but not now. They have learned that the
+missionaries bring only <i>blessings</i> to their country, and they are
+anxious to have their children ‘learn books,’ and be ‘taught white
+man’s way.’ They also wish to learn about God and how to be saved. And
+to obtain these blessings they are willing to give something&mdash;willing
+to give land for missionaries to build school-houses, and help the
+missionary build his house, and pay tuition for the children, and help
+the preacher.</p>
+
+<p>“In very many places they are <i>begging for a missionary</i>. At a point on
+the Niger, where the steamers landed, the people ran to the wharf to
+meet every boat, saying, ‘Has the teacher come?’ (No one had promised a
+teacher.) ‘If the teacher will come, and teach us white man’s book, we
+will give him plenty to eat and take good care of him!’</p>
+
+<p>“Another king said: ‘I do not wish to die till I can see a school house
+built, where my children can be taught; and a church, where my people may
+learn about God.’</p>
+
+<p>“Another king came from the country to Liberia to obtain a missionary for
+his people.</p>
+
+<p>“I have had chiefs come from the interior to beg for a mission, and after
+giving them one, I have seen them become followers of Jesus.</p>
+
+<p>“Thus from many places they cry: ‘Come over and help us!’ Very different
+from fifty years ago!</p>
+
+<p>“(3) The lack of <i>written languages and books</i> was a great obstacle.
+While the nations had regular languages (nearly 700 in Africa), they were
+all unwritten, and, of course, they had no books and no knowledge of the
+world or the way of salvation through Christ. This universal ignorance
+was the mother of gross superstition and horrible cruelties.</p>
+
+<p>“To learn the language and prepare school books, and translate the Bible,
+was a slow process.</p>
+
+<p>“To-day, over fifty of these languages are reduced to writing. The Bible
+is printed in ten of them, and portions of it in
+over<!--754.png--><span class="pagenum">745</span>
+thirty more. And
+many of them have school books, papers, and some literature.</p>
+
+<p>“Here is a great advance, the benefit of which modern laborers can take
+advantage.</p>
+
+<p>“And this same work is widely and continually going on. Light is
+spreading and desire increasing.</p>
+
+<p>“Along the western coast, English is extensively taught, as also the
+French, German and Portuguese, where these nations have colonies and
+trading posts.</p>
+
+<p>“(4) Lack of <i>native help</i>, at first, made progress slow. The white man
+was alone amid millions. His ways were all strange and inimitable. He was
+dressed, while they were naked. He read books, while they had none. He
+worshiped <i>God</i>, while they trusted in idols and charms. He seemed far
+above them and the idea of reaching his plane, hopeless.</p>
+
+<p>“But, with great patience and unwearied perseverance, the pioneers toiled
+on, teaching, preaching, learning languages, writing elementary books,
+instructing children and youth, to prepare native helpers.</p>
+
+<p>“To-day, there are about 8,000 ordained and unordained native preachers,
+and thousands of teachers and hundreds of thousands of pupils who are
+being prepared for future helpers&mdash;an army of native workers&mdash;and many
+are running to and fro and knowledge is being increased.</p>
+
+<p>“Modern missionaries can now obtain interpreters for almost all parts of
+Africa, and this is a great help, which calls for heartfelt thanksgiving
+and praise to God who has wrought these favorable changes.</p>
+
+<p>“I will mention but one more obstacle: (5) The <i>sickly climate</i>. During
+the first fifty years of missionary life in West and East Africa, the
+mortality was fearful. Probably 500 missionaries have died in the
+missions on the west coast. Nearly twenty died in the Mendi Mission where
+I labored. The Church Missionary Society lost fifty-three in the first
+twenty years. Three English Bishops died within eight years.</p>
+
+<p>“In the Basle Mission, on the Gold Coast, in fifty-eight years,
+ninety-one missionaries died. And so it has been in Liberia,
+in<!--755.png--><span class="pagenum">746</span>
+Lagos,
+Gaboon, and in many other places. All societies have lost many, so that a
+book written by an Englishman was entitled “The White Man’s Grave.” The
+last three years I was in Africa I buried four white missionaries.</p>
+
+<p>“But, thank God, it is different now. They have better houses and more
+comforts and have learned better how to take care of their health, so
+that the mortality in these same places is not half so much as it used to
+be.</p>
+
+<p>“And missionaries can now reach the healthy high lands where they can
+live as well as here. So we will ‘Thank God and take courage.’</p>
+
+<p>“In the same line more might be mentioned, but enough has been noted to
+show that there is no good cause for discouragement in the glorious work
+of saving Africa, to whom we owe such an unspeakable debt.</p>
+
+<p>“With so many obstacles removed, and so many helps now prepared to our
+hand, while vast fields are opening and loud calls are wafted to us
+on every breeze, we may well be encouraged to put forth more vigorous
+efforts to give the Gospel to that people in <i>this</i> generation.” <span class="smcap">Rev.
+Geo. Thompson</span>.</p>
+
+<h3>
+STANLEY ON THE GOMBE.
+</h3>
+
+<p>On his way to Ujiji to rescue Livingstone, Stanley passed through the
+lands of the Manyara, which are plains stretching for a distance of 135
+miles, well cultivated, thickly strewn with villages, and abounding in
+game, which finds a haunt amid the tall grasses. He had never seen such a
+hunter’s paradise as that on the river Gombe, which waters the country.
+Buffaloes, zebras, giraffes and antelope, roamed through the magnificent
+parks of the section, affording excellent sport for the natives, and
+inviting the traveler to halt for a time in order to enjoy the thrill of
+a hunt.</p>
+
+<p>The antelope of this section is large and powerful. It goes by name
+of “springbock,” because it takes tremendous leaps of ten to twelve
+feet when running. When pursued, it is pleasing and curious to see the
+whole herd leaping over each other’s heads, and looking back while they
+are in the air. They are
+exceedingly<!--756.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_747" id="Page_747">747</a></span>
+swift, and cannot be overtaken
+by a horse. They migrate annually from the interior toward the coast,
+and after remaining in the lowlands for two to three months, begin a
+gradual journey toward the interior. During these inward journeys their
+gregarious instincts are in full sway, and herds of hundreds may be seen
+on the grassy plains.</p>
+
+<p>When travelling thus in large herds, they are the victims of beasts of
+prey, as lions, leopards and hyenas, which attack them at every favorable
+opportunity and seldom fail to secure rich feasts. Their flesh is
+excellent eating, and the springbock, together with other varieties of
+the antelope species, furnishes the venison of the African continent.</p>
+
+<p>As he continued his way along the course of the Gombe, feasting his
+vision upon the beautiful scenes before him, he came suddenly upon a
+scene which he says “delighted the innermost recesses” of his soul. Just
+before him were “ten zebras switching their beautiful striped bodies,
+and biting one another.” Of these he succeeded in killing one, and then,
+content with the result of the hunt, he retired to camp. Before doing
+so, however, he thought he would take a bath in the placid waters of the
+river. He says: “I sought out the most shady spot under a wide-spreading
+mimosa, from which the ground sloped, smooth as a lawn, to the still,
+clear water. I ventured to undress, and had already stepped to my ankles
+in the water and had brought my hands together for a glorious dive,
+when my attention was attracted by an enormously long body which shot
+into view, occupying the spot beneath the surface which I was about to
+explore by a ‘header.’ Great heavens! it was a crocodile! I sprang back
+instinctively, and this proved my salvation, for the monster turned away
+with a disappointed look, and I was left to congratulate myself upon my
+narrow escape from his jaws, and to register a vow never to be tempted
+again by the treacherous calm of an African river.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_748.jpg" width="600" height="371"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">LEOPARD ATTACKING A SPRINGBOCK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<h3>
+CHRISTIAN HEROES IN AFRICA.
+</h3>
+
+<p>“My subject is not so much Africa, its people, its customs and its
+misfortunes, as the Christian pioneers and their work. The United
+Moravian brethren at Herrnhut in Germany, more than
+a<!--758.png--><span class="pagenum">749</span>
+century and a half
+ago, were stirred up to send out a missionary to the poor Hottentots,
+who were treated as dogs by the Dutch colonists. George Schmidt at once
+offered himself to go out, and suffered hardship with a persecuted race,
+and, having been blessed by the conversion of a few, was forbidden
+to baptize them, and summarily sent back to Europe by men who called
+themselves Protestants, and who were jealous of their own liberty. Fifty
+years later (1792), the United Brethren sent out three more missionaries,
+who founded the illustrious mission of Gen&aacute;dend&aacute;l, or Vale of Grace, on
+the very walls of the ruined house of George Schmidt, seven years after
+the great patriarch of African missions had been called to his reward,
+dying, like Livingstone and Krapf, on his knees.</p>
+
+<p>“The London and Wesleyan societies, the Established Church of England,
+the Free Church of Scotland, and the American Board of Foreign Missions,
+took up a share in the blessed work amidst other races of South Africa,
+and out of their ranks by faith Moffat undertook to translate the Bible
+into the language of the Be-Chu&aacute;na, Wilder into the language of the Zulu,
+and Boyce, Appleyard, and others, into the language of the Ama-Xosa,
+or K&aacute;fir&mdash;languages deemed at the time to be incapable of expressing
+simple ideas, but which, deftly handled, proved to be apt exponents of
+every variety of human thought, with an unlimited vocabulary, and an
+unsurpassed symmetry of structure.</p>
+
+<p>“Moffat’s son-in-law, Livingstone, abandoned his home, his chapel, and
+his school, and started off on his great missionary progress, which was
+destined to illuminate all Africa south of the Equator. By faith he bore
+up under the perils, the fatigues, the opposition and the bereavement
+of his dear wife, who sleeps on the shore of the Zambesi. He worked his
+way to Bengu&eacute;la, on the west coast, Kilim&aacute;ni on the east, and Nyangw&eacute;
+on the River Congo to the north, discovering new rivers, new lakes, new
+tribes, and new languages. From the drops of sweat which fell from his
+limbs in those great travels have sprung up, like flowers, Christian
+missions, founded by men of different denominations and different views
+of church government, but united in the fear of God, love of Africa, and
+veneration for Livingstone. To the impulse, given by this great apostle,
+must be attributed the missions of the
+Established<!--759.png--><span class="pagenum">750</span>
+Church of Scotland at
+Blantyre, the Free Church of Scotland at Livingstonia, the London Society
+on Lake Tang&aacute;nyika, and the Universities Mission at Zanzibar. But to this
+servant of God it was not conceded to see one single fruit of his labors.
+He saw no mission spring up; like Moses, he only beheld the promised land
+from Pisgah; he died without knowing of the secret of the source of the
+Nile and the Congo.</p>
+
+<p>“Krapf and Rebman sat year after year at the watch-tower of Momb&aacute;sa,
+waiting till the day should dawn, calling to each other: ‘Watchman, what
+of the night?’ writing home descriptions of vast lakes, and snow-capped
+mountains on the Equator, causing themselves to be derided, both as
+missionaries and geographers; yet they lived to be honored in both
+capacities, they lived to see the day dawn at last, to hear of Frere-Town
+being established as a station for released slaves at Momb&aacute;sa, to hear
+of those internal seas being navigated, and that snow-capped mountain
+being visited. In his old age Krapf in tearful gratitude read Henry
+Stanley’s challenge, which rang with trumpet-sound from the capital of
+Uganda, and was gallantly answered by the Church Missionary Society, and
+he lived to hear of the great Apostle’s Street, which by faith he had
+suggested, being carried out from Zanzibar to the Great Lakes, to be
+extended westward down the Congo, until hands are shaken with the Baptist
+missionaries working up that river from the west.</p>
+
+<p>“The good Baptist Society established themselves in the island of
+Fernando Po, and, driven thence by the intolerance of the Spaniards, they
+crossed over to the mainland, and found what seemed once, but, alas! is
+no longer, a more enduring inheritance in the Kamer&uacute;n Mountains. By faith
+here Saker lived, labored and died, translating the Holy Scriptures into
+the language of the Dualla, but leaving his work to be revised by his
+young daughter, opening out a new field for the talent and zeal of women.
+Hence in fullness of time by faith Comber started to conquer new kingdoms
+of the Congo, making, alas! the heavy sacrifice of the life of his wife
+at San Salvador, before he reached Stanley Pool, with the great heart of
+Africa open to his assault; for in their hands the Baptist missionaries
+had carried gentle peace, and their vessel
+with<!--760.png--><span class="pagenum">751</span>
+that name still carries
+them onward on their blessed and peaceful enterprise.</p>
+
+<p>“Our good brethren in North America were among the first to send out
+their agents to West and South Africa, to pay back the debt which they
+owed, and to atone for the wrong which their forefathers had inflicted.
+The sun was thus taken back to the east, to lighten those sitting in
+darkness. Each and every one of their churches have vied in the desire
+to found strong missions, translate the Holy Scriptures, and to press
+forward the work of freedom, education, civilization and evangelization.</p>
+
+<p>“The holy and humble-hearted Protestant churches on the continent of
+Europe, less amply endowed in material resources, but more richly in
+intellect, industry and self-consecration, have sent forth a golden
+stream of missionaries from the centers of Basle and Canton de Vaud in
+Switzerland; of Barmen, Breman, Berlin, Herrnhut and Hermannsburg in
+Germany; from Norway, Sweden, Finland and France, to hold the fort in
+the most exposed situations, to suffer imprisonment, to achieve great
+literary works, to found living churches, and attract to themselves the
+affections of the African.</p>
+
+<p>“Samuel Crowther was rescued from the captivity into which he, like
+Joseph, had been sold by his brethren, was restored to his country, to
+be no longer a slave, but a teacher, a leader, a benefactor, and an
+example; he was set apart to give the lie to the enemies of the African,
+to stultify the idle taunt, that a negro is incapable, by his nature, of
+culture, piety, honesty, and social virtues; he was raised up to mark an
+epoch in the sad chronicle of his persecuted race, and to be the first
+fruit of the coming harvest of African pastors and evangelists. His son
+Dandison, Henry Johnson and James Johnson were blessed with the great
+grace of being allowed to tread in his footsteps.</p>
+
+<p>“If any of my readers desire to know the real worth of the African
+missionary, let them read the lives of Mrs. Hinderer at Ibad&aacute;n, and Mrs.
+Wakefield at Rib&eacute;, and of many other noble men and women, of whom this
+self-seeking world was not worthy, who left comforts at home to labor
+among the Africans; who, in spite of overpowering maladies, have been,
+like Hannington, unwilling
+to<!--761.png--><span class="pagenum">752</span>
+leave the country of their choice, and
+determined to return in spite of the warning voice of their doctor, or
+who, like him, have died as good confessors.</p>
+
+<p>“Time would fail me to tell of Schlenker, and Reichardt, and Sch&ouml;n; of
+Goldie and Edgerley; of Cas&aacute;lls, Mabille and Coillard; of James Stewart,
+of Lovedale, and his namesake on the Nyassa; of Grant and Wilson; of
+Ramseyer and Christaller; of Mackensie, the Bishop who died on the
+River Shir&eacute;; and of Steere the Bishop who sealed up the translation
+of the last chapter of Isaiah ready for the printer, and then fell
+asleep at Zanzibar; of Parker, the Bishop, wise and gentle, holy and
+self-restrained, who was called to his rest on the southern shores of
+Victoria Nyanza; of Wakefield and New; of Stern, Mayer and Flad; of
+Southon, the medical missionary, who died at Urambo; of dear Mullens, who
+could not hold himself back from the fight, and who sleeps in Usag&aacute;ra; of
+many a gentle ladies’ grave&mdash;for women have never been found wanting to
+share the honor and the danger of the Cross.” <span class="smcap">Robert N. Cust, L. L.
+D.</span></p>
+
+<h3>
+THE BOILING POT ORDEAL.
+</h3>
+
+<p>Mr. Arnot says of the Zambesi Valley: “A small company gathered in front
+of my hut, and began an animated discussion, which grew hotter and
+hotter, and shortly a large fire was kindled, and a pot of water set
+on it. I was told that this was a trial for witchcraft, and that the
+two persons charged had to wash their hands in the water, and if after
+twenty-four hours the skin came off, the victims were to be burnt alive.
+First one, then the other, dipt his hands into the fiercely-boiling
+water, lifting some up and pouring it over the wrist. Twenty-four hours
+told its tale, and I saw the poor fellows marched off to be burned before
+a howling, cursing crowd. Such scenes, I afterward found, were almost of
+daily occurrence.</p>
+
+<p>“I proposed to the king to require both the accuser and the accused to
+put their hands into the boiling water. The king is strongly in favor of
+this proposal, and would try any means to stop this fearful system of
+murder, which is thinning out many of his best men, but the nation is so
+strongly in favor of the practice
+that<!--762.png--><span class="pagenum">753</span>
+he can do nothing. An old friend
+of mine, Wizini, who took quite a fatherly care and interest in me, was
+charged with witchcraft. He pleaded earnestly to be spared the terrible
+trial, and was reprieved because of his years, but he was banished from
+his people and country for life, for no other reason than that a neighbor
+had an ill-feeling against him. Had he been first to the king with his
+complaint, he might have seen his neighbor burned or banished instead of
+himself. I much missed this old man.</p>
+
+<p>“When manners and customs are referred to, the particular district must
+be borne in mind. Africa is an immense continent, and there is as much
+variety in the customs of the different tribes as in their languages.
+Certain tribes take delight in cruelty and bloodshed; others have a
+religious fear of shedding human blood, and treat aged people with every
+kindness to secure their good-will after death. By other tribes the aged
+would be cast out as mere food for wild animals.”</p>
+
+<h3>
+THE ADVENTURES OF A SLAVE.
+</h3>
+
+<p>A lad who was recently baptized at the Baptist mission on the Congo,
+relates a strange story of his adventures. His name is Kayembe. When he
+was 10 years old an Arab caravan passed through the district in which
+he lived with his parents. His people lived in terror for nearly two
+months, part of the time in the jungle. One morning, the slavers came
+with drums and singing. Kayembe’s father, after throwing a spear at an
+assailant, was shot dead, and his hand cut off as a trophy. Kayembe fled
+to the jungle, but was caught by some Nyangwe men, who took him with them
+and went from town to town killing men and little children and catching
+the women. Children who tried to follow their mothers were beaten back.
+Finally Kayembe was taken to Stanley Falls, where he was sold to a state
+soldier, a Zanzibari. This man, when he was taken sick, sold him to a
+Hausa soldier, who, when his time was up, took him to Leopoldville, at
+Stanley Pool, and the lad fell into the hands of the mission as the
+personal boy of Mr. Biggs. After Mr. Biggs died, Kayembe manifested great
+grief and came under Mr. Bentley’s care, and a year ago professed to
+have given his heart to the Savior. He was not more than thirteen years
+old then,
+and<!--763.png--><span class="pagenum">754</span>
+his baptism was delayed, but both by his words and his
+life he has shown himself to be a Christian, and in March last he was
+baptized. His capture and the death of his father are a terrible memory
+to him, though he is full of thankfulness that he has come to learn of
+the Savior. He has chosen a small town, about an hour from Wathen, which
+he regards as his field for Christian work; thither he often goes to find
+an audience of fifteen or twenty.</p>
+
+<h3>
+ARAB CRUELTIES IN AFRICA.
+</h3>
+
+<p>Letters to the secretary of the Free Church Missionary Society, from
+East Central Africa show that the power of the Arabs in the region is
+rather decreasing, but they still continue formidable. Many of the
+native supporters of the Arabs are deserting to the missionaries. These
+latter and the agents of the African Lakes Company, with the assistance
+of friendly negroes, have been successful in keeping the Arabs somewhat
+in check, but the Arabs still destroy a number of the negroes. Many
+instances are recorded of the Arabs lying in ambush and shooting down
+natives as they make their way to and from their gardens. About three
+months ago the slavers, assisted by the Chief Merere, made a raid and
+destroyed a number of native villages at Ukume, killing, burning and
+plundering wherever they went. Many of the inhabitants escaped to the
+hills. Some thirty young women were taken captive, and afterward sold,
+the children crying for their murdered parents. Some of them were clubbed
+and others thrown into the flames from the burning huts. Much anxiety is
+felt regarding the fate of the white men on the shores of Lake Tanganyika.</p>
+
+<h3>
+A LION HUNT.
+</h3>
+
+<p>Col. Baker thus describes a lion hunt in the Shooli country: “The grass
+had been set on fire by the natives, but as the wind was light the game
+advanced at an easy pace. Presently I saw a splendid buck antelope
+advancing toward me. Just as I was going to fire, a long yellow tail
+suddenly rose, and an instant later a fine lion flashed into view,
+disturbed by the approaching flames. The lion and antelope crossed paths.
+Both seemed startled, but soon
+the<!--764.png--><span class="pagenum">755</span>
+antelope bounded away, leaving the
+lion with his head toward my position.</p>
+
+<p>“Not wishing a closer acquaintance, I aimed directly at his chest and
+fired. The lion rolled completely over, roared tremendously, and turned
+three successive somersaults, but to my astonishment appeared to recover.
+I immediately fired my left-hand barrel. Quick as a flash he bounded
+toward me, and charged on my two native companions. I quickly snatched
+one of their guns and stepped out from behind the ant-hill which I had
+used for a cover. The beast appeared to be diverted from his charge by
+the suddenness of my movement, and turned as if to retreat. I let him
+have a full charge of back-shot in his hind-quarters, and he continued
+his retreat into the high grass.</p>
+
+<p>“Groans now issued from the grass, and the natives proposed to attack the
+beast with spears if I would back them up with my rifle. We approached
+the spot and soon found the beast within the grass. I would not let the
+natives approach near enough to use their spears, but fired the right
+barrel of my rifle, at a distance of twenty yards. The immediate reply
+was a determined charge, and the infuriated beast came bounding toward us
+with mouth agape and roaring furiously. The natives threw their spears,
+but missed. I fired my left-hand barrel, but nothing was equal to the
+task of stopping that deadly charge. We all had to run for our lives,
+back to the protection of the ant-hill, where our reserve fire arms were.
+Snatching up a rifle, I fired directly into his heart, just as he had one
+of the natives fairly within reach. This sent him reeling backwards, and
+he beat a retreat to his original cover.</p>
+
+<p>“I now quickly reloaded, and, ordering every one to keep out of the way,
+I walked cautiously toward his cover. There I saw him sitting on his
+haunches, and glaring savagely in a direction opposite to the one in
+which I was approaching. I aimed directly for his neck, at a distance
+of twelve yards, and must have broken it, for the beast fell over
+stone dead. It was a fine specimen, and had certainly afforded enough
+excitement for one day’s hunt. On cutting the beast open we discovered in
+its stomach the freshly eaten remains of an antelope calf, simply torn
+into lumps of two or three
+pounds<!--766.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_757" id="Page_757">757</a></span>
+each. The natives regarded this as too
+dainty a morsel to let escape, and so divided it among themselves for
+supper.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_756.jpg" width="600" height="376"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A LION HUNT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<h3>
+MOHAMMEDAN INFLUENCE.
+</h3>
+
+<p>Lieutenant Wissmann’s contribution to the “Proceedings of the Royal
+Geographical Society,” throws light on the question of Mohammedanism and
+missions in West Central Africa. The writer’s experience of Mohammedan
+influences upon the native populations is in direct contrast with the
+assertion that the creed of Islam is that best suited to their needs.
+He gives a graphic account of two visits to Bagna Pesihi, and certain
+villages of the Bene Ki, a division of the Basonge, in Central Africa,
+before and after the arrival of a gang of Arab traders on the scene.</p>
+
+<p>On the first occasion, he was welcomed by a prosperous and contented
+tribe, whose condition and occupations bore ample evidence to the
+existence of its villages for decades in peace and security, free
+from the disturbing elements of war and slave-hunts, pestilence and
+superstition. The huts of the natives were roomy and clean, fitted with
+shady porches, and surrounded by carefully kept fields and gardens, in
+which were grown all manner of useful plants and fruits including hemp,
+sugar, tobacco, sweet potatoes, maize, manioc and millet. A thicket of
+bananas and plantains occupied the back of each homestead, and shady palm
+groves supplied their owners with nuts, oils, fibers and wine. Goats,
+sheep and fowls abounded, and no one seemed afraid of thieves. The people
+all had a well-fed air, and were anxious to trade, their supplies being
+plentiful and extremely cheap. A fowl could be purchased for a large
+cowrie shell, and a goat for a yard of calico. Everywhere the visitors
+found a cheerful, courteous and contented population, uncontaminated by
+the vices of civilization, and yet not wholly ignorant of its arts.</p>
+
+<p>Four years later Lieutenant Wissmann chanced to be in the same district,
+and after the privations of a toilsome march through dense, inhospitable
+forests, rejoiced as he drew near to the palm groves of the Bagna Pesihi.
+A dense growth of grass covered the formerly well-trimmed paths.</p>
+
+<p><!--767.png--><span class="pagenum">758</span></p>
+
+<p>“As we approach the skirt of the groves we are struck by the dead silence
+which reigns. No laughter is to be heard, no sign of a welcome from our
+old friends. The silence of death breathes over the lofty crowns of
+the palms, slowly waving in the wind. We enter, and it is in vain we
+look to the right and left for the happy homesteads and the happy old
+scenes. Tall grass covers everything, and a charred pole here and there,
+and a few banana trees are the only evidences that a man once dwelt
+here. Bleached skulls by the roadside, and the skeletons of human hands
+attached to poles tell the story of what has happened here since our last
+visit.”</p>
+
+<p>It appeared that the notorious Tippoo Tib had been there to “trade,” and
+in the course of that process had killed all who offered resistance,
+carried off the women, and devastated the fields, gardens and banana
+groves. Bands of destroyers from the same gang had returned again and
+again, and those who escaped the sword perished by the small-pox and
+famine, which the marauders left in their train. The whole tribe of
+the Bene Ki ceased to exist, and only a few remnants found refuge in a
+neighboring state.</p>
+
+<p>Such must be counted amongst the results of Arab “trading” in Africa,
+and if it is at such cost that the blessings of Mohammedan civilization
+are purchased by the native races, it is no wonder that they are not
+considered a desirable acquisition. Even if it be true that Christianity
+is sometimes tardy of operation in its beneficent effects upon the
+blacks, Christian missionaries and Christian traders can at least boast
+that they have not wittingly acted otherwise than beneficently towards
+them.</p>
+
+<h3>
+A VICTIM OF SUPERSTITION.
+</h3>
+
+<p>The following incident is related by Bishop Crowther: “A slave who lived
+at Alenso was decoyed to a neighboring village under the pretence that he
+was appointed to offer a goat as a sacrifice to a dead man. On arrival
+at the house where the corpse was laid out, the goat was taken from the
+slave, and he was at once pounced on by two stalwart men and bound fast
+in chains. The poor man saw at once that he himself, not the goat, was
+to be the victim. He calmly addressed the people around, saying he
+was<!--768.png--><span class="pagenum">759</span>
+quite willing to die and need not be put in chains. A pipe was brought
+to him, which he smoked, a new cloth replaced his rags, and while he was
+having his last smoke the daughter of the deceased chief stood before him
+and began to eulogize her dead father, telling of his former greatness
+and achievements. The address was directed to the victim, that he might
+repeat the same to the inhabitants of the spirit world when he arrived
+there.</p>
+
+<p>“The news of the intended sacrifice was soon circulated. It reached
+the ears of the missionary, Rev. J. Buck, who, with some Sierra Leone
+friends, hastened to the spot. A large hole had been already dug; the
+poor man was led into it, and ordered to lie on his back with his arms
+spread out. The missionary and his friends used all possible arguments,
+entreaties, and pleadings for his release, but in vain. They offered to
+give bullocks for sacrifice instead of the man, but these were flatly
+refused; and while they stood entreating, the corpse was brought and
+placed on the poor slave. He was then ordered to embrace it, and obeyed.
+The missionary and his friends turned away from the horrible sight as
+the grave was being filled, burying the living <i>as a sacrifice</i> with the
+dead.”</p>
+
+<h3>
+HEROIC WOMEN.
+</h3>
+
+<p>While great praise has been bestowed on certain heroic missionaries and
+explorers who have braved the dangers of Africa, little has been said
+concerning the women who have endured equal hardships amid the same
+hostile tribes and inhospitable climates. Mrs. Livingstone laid down
+her life while accompanying her husband on his second great tour in
+Africa. Mrs. Hore made her home for several years on an island in Lake
+Tanganyika. Mrs. Holub was with her husband when he was attacked by the
+natives and robbed of everything, and endured with him the hunger and
+fatigue of which they both well-nigh perished. Mrs. Pringle traveled
+in a canoe several hundred miles up the Zambesi and Shir&eacute; rivers to
+Lake Nyassa. Lady Baker was travelling companion to her husband when he
+discovered Albert Nyanza. And now we are told that three ladies will
+accompany Mr. Arnot and his wife as missionaries to Garenganze, and to
+accomplish the journey they will
+have<!--769.png--><span class="pagenum">760</span>
+to be carried in hammocks for
+hundreds of miles. Women who accompanied Bishop Taylor have shown a
+degree of courage in venturing into the perils of Africa which promise
+well for their heroic enterprise. “White women have certainly had their
+full share of the hardships and sufferings of pioneer work in Africa.”</p>
+
+<h3>
+MARY MOFFAT’S FAITH.
+</h3>
+
+<p>In the life of Robert Moffatt, first edited by their son, we are reminded
+that for ten years the early mission in Bechuana Land was carried on
+without one ray of encouragement for the faithful workers. No convert
+was made. The directors at home, to the great grief of the devoted
+missionaries, began to question the wisdom of continuing the mission.
+A year or two longer the darkness reigned. A friend from England sent
+word to Mrs. Moffat, asking what gift she should send out to her, and
+the brave woman wrote back: “Send a communion service, it will be sure
+to be needed.” At last the breath of the Lord moved on the hearts
+of the Bechuanas. A little group of six were united into the first
+Christian church, and that communion service from England, singularly
+delayed, reached Kuruman just the day before the appointed time for the
+administration of the Lord’s Supper.</p>
+
+<h3>
+TATAKA, LIBERIA.
+</h3>
+
+<p>“A word from Tataka Mission, this beautiful June day (June 6, 1889),
+may be interesting. A shower of rain has just fallen and everything
+looks refreshed, and as I sit on our veranda and look around I wish I
+could have some of my friends look at the fair picture. All nature is
+beautiful, but these darkened minds, as dark as their skins, can see no
+beauty in it. They never gather flowers, for their beauty; at times they
+bring in a few leaves and roots for medicine.</p>
+
+<p>“At my right hand is a woman cutting wood. This is part of the women’s
+work, and they have learned the art of using their cutlasses so well,
+that, in a short time, they cut and carry on their heads more than I can
+raise from the ground.</p>
+
+<p>“At this season the sounds of drum and dancing can be
+heard<!--770.png--><span class="pagenum">761</span>
+most every
+night in merry-making. After crops have been gathered, these poor
+creatures, to whom enough to eat is their all, spend their strength in
+dancing out their joy.</p>
+
+<p>“The people recognize there is a God, but only in severe illness do
+they call on Him. Then their pitiful wail of ‘Oh, Niswa! Oh, Niswa!’ is
+touching. The devil is really their god and to him they pay rites and
+ceremonies and of him they are terribly afraid. We talk to them of God
+and heaven, of wrong and right, and they say: ‘Yes, it be good, but that
+be white man’s ‘fash,’ we be devil-men.’ They haven’t a desire beside
+their pot of rice and palm butter and mat to sleep on.</p>
+
+<p>“Our little farm looks nicely now; 500 coffee trees just set out, a new
+lot of edoes and sweet potatoes and yams coming on, with plenty of rice
+in the house. Meat we seldom see, fish occasionally can be bought from
+the natives, but they catch but few and want them for their own ‘chop.’</p>
+
+<p>“The laws and customs of this land are very loose. A man has just done
+another a foul wrong. He found he was to be called to account, and ran
+to another town to beg some of the ‘<i>big</i>’ men to go to his town and beg
+him off. As they say in English: ‘Please, I beg you, do your heart good;
+I beg you let it pass.’ And they are so persistent with their ‘m-ba-ta’s’
+(I beg you), that you are glad to let them go. Thus evil goes unpunished.</p>
+
+<p>“Another custom, that of buying women, is the most dreadful to us. A girl
+is chosen for a boy when he is still a growing lad. When he is a man and
+she about 15 to 17 he wants to take her to his house as his woman. He
+has to pay the whole price settled on: usually two bullocks, two goats,
+with some cloth, pots, etc. Then if he does not have the means to pay
+he goes to any man in his family, that is a ‘head man,’ and demands
+pay for his woman. Just this week one of our big men had to sell his
+little five-year-old daughter to get money to give his nephew to pay for
+his wife. Sometimes this is very hard for the parents to do, but their
+country fash demands it. Some one had to do the same for them. A second
+or third woman is bought by their own earnings or comes to them by the
+death of their brothers. When a man dies his women are divided among the
+nearest relatives, and are
+their<!--771.png--><span class="pagenum">762</span>
+women thereafter. The first one is head
+woman, and occupies the big house; each of the others has a small house.</p>
+
+<p>“Every day’s experience shows us how difficult it is to do any real good
+among this Taboo people. They will shake you by the hand and smile in
+your face, but behind your back do all they can to overthrow the mission.
+The green-eyed monster jealousy lives here. A man cannot come out and
+say, I will do this or that; if he did, he would soon die.</p>
+
+<p>“They will tell you with a good deal of pride, ‘We be devil-men.’”
+<span class="smcap">Rose A. Bower.</span></p>
+
+<h3>
+A NATIVE WAR DANCE.
+</h3>
+
+<p>When Baker arrived in the Obbo country, he found the people in a great
+state of excitement owing to the presence of a marauding band of Arabs
+who had announced a raid on the neighboring Madi people. While it was
+plain that the proposed raid was wholly for booty in slaves and ivory,
+the Obbo people were easily influenced, and found in it an opportunity to
+revenge themselves for some old or imaginary grievance.</p>
+
+<p>They are a fine, athletic people, and somewhat fantastic, as things go
+in Central Africa. As nothing is ever done among them without a grand
+palaver, the chief called the tribe into consultation, which turned out
+to be a very formal affair. The warriors all appeared fully armed with
+spear and shield, and their bodies painted in various patterns with
+red ochre and white pipe clay. Their heads were ornamented with really
+tasteful arrangements of cowrie shells and ostrich feathers, the latter
+often hanging down their backs in graceful folds.</p>
+
+<p>The consultation proceeded for some time with due regard to forms and
+with an apparent desire to get at a majority sentiment, when of a
+sudden it ended with an outburst from the warriors, and then filing
+away into sets or lines, each line indulging in pantomimic charges upon
+an imaginary enemy, and going through all the manœuvers of a fierce
+contest. Their activity was simply wonderful, and if they could have
+brought that show of vigorous athleticism and that terrible determination
+of countenance to bear upon their Madi enemies they must have carried
+consternation
+into<!--773.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_764" id="Page_764">764</a></span>
+their ranks. The exhilarating and ostentatious
+ceremony proved to be the national war-dance of the tribe, which takes
+place as a ratification of the results of a tribal palaver, when the
+sentiment has been unanimous for war.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_763.jpg" width="600" height="349"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">NATIVE WAR-DANCE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It was a pity to see these fine fellows so imposed upon by the wily
+Arabs, but they seemed to be wholly under their influence, for no sooner
+had the war-dance ended, which it did more through the exhaustion of the
+participants than through a desire to stop, than the chief arose and
+delivered a most voluble and vehement address, urging upon his warriors
+to assist the Arabs in their proposed raid and to beat the Madi people
+at all hazards. Several other speakers talked in a similar strain, with
+the effect of arousing the greatest enthusiasm. The result was that the
+Arab leader started on his raid with 120 of his own armed followers,
+surrounded and supported by the entire warlike force of the Obbos.</p>
+
+<h3>
+AFRICAN GAME LAWS.
+</h3>
+
+<p>Eastward of Lake Albert Nyanza is the Shooli country. In the midst
+of this tribe Col. Baker established Fort Fatiko. While awaiting
+reinforcements, he cultivated the friendship of the natives and soon
+found himself on excellent terms with them. The grass was fit to burn
+and the hunting season had fairly commenced. All the natives devote
+themselves to this important pursuit, for the chase supplies the Shooli
+with clothing. Though the women are naked, every man wears an antelope
+skin slung across his shoulders, so arranged as to be tolerably decent.</p>
+
+<p>All the waste tracts of the Shooli and Unyoro country are claimed by
+individual proprietors who possess the right to hunt game therein by
+inheritance. Thus in Africa the principle of the English game preserve
+exists, though without definite metes and bounds. Yet a breach of their
+primitive game laws would be regarded by the public as a disgrace to the
+guilty individual, precisely as poaching is a disgrace in England.</p>
+
+<p>The rights of game are among the first rudiments of property. Man in a
+primitive state is a hunter, depending for his clothing upon the skins
+of wild animals, and upon their flesh for his
+subsistence;<!--774.png--><span class="pagenum">765</span>
+therefore
+the beast that he kills upon the desert must be his property; and in a
+public hunt, should he be the first to wound a wild animal, he will have
+gained an increased interest or share in the flesh by having reduced the
+chance of its escape. Thus public opinion, which we must regard as the
+foundation of <i>equity</i>, rewards him with a distinct and special right,
+which becomes <i>law</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It is impossible to trace the origin of game laws in Central Africa, but
+it is nevertheless interesting to find that such rights are generally
+acknowledged, and that large tracts of uninhabited country are possessed
+by individuals which are simply manorial. These rights are inherited,
+descending from father to the eldest son.</p>
+
+<p>When the grass is sufficiently dry to burn, the whole thoughts of
+the community are centered upon sport. Baker, being a great hunter,
+associated with them. Their favorite method of hunting is with nets, each
+man being provided with a net, some 30 feet long and 11 feet deep. A
+council was called and it was decided that the hunt should take place on
+the manors of certain individuals whose property was contiguous.</p>
+
+<p>At length the day of the hunt arrived, when several thousand people
+collected at a certain rendezvous, about nine miles distant from Fatiko,
+the best neighborhood for game. “At a little before 5 A.M.,” says Baker,
+“I started on my solitary but powerful horse, Jamoos. Descending the
+rocky terrace from the station at Fatiko, we were at once in the lovely,
+park-like glades, diversified by bold granite rocks, among which were
+scattered the graceful drooping acacias in clumps of dense foliage.
+Crossing the clear, rippling stream, we clambered up the steep bank on
+the opposite side, and, after a ride of about a mile and a half, we
+gained the water-shed, and commenced a gradual descent towards the west.
+We were now joined by numerous people, both men, women, and children, all
+of whom were bent upon the hunt. The men carried their nets and spears;
+the boys were also armed with lighter weapons, and the very little
+fellows carried tiny lances, all of which had been carefully sharpened
+for the expected game. The women were in great numbers, and upon that
+day the villages were quite deserted. Babies accompanied their mothers,
+strapped upon
+their<!--775.png--><span class="pagenum">766</span>
+backs with leathern bands, and protected from the
+weather by the usual tortoise-like coverings of gourd-shells. Thus it
+may be imagined that the Shooli tribe were born hunters, as they had
+accompanied the public hunts from their earliest infancy.</p>
+
+<p>“As we proceeded, the number of natives increased, but there was no noise
+or loud talking. Every one appeared thoroughly to understand his duties.
+Having crossed the beautiful Un-y-Am&eacute; river, we entered the game country.
+A line of about a mile and a half was quickly protected by netting, and
+the natives were already in position.</p>
+
+<p>“Each man had lashed his net to that of his neighbor and supported it
+with bamboos, which were secured with ropes fastened to twisted grass.
+Thus the entire net resembled a fence, that would be invisible to the
+game in the high grass, until, when driven, they should burst suddenly
+upon it.</p>
+
+<p>“The grass was as dry as straw, and several thousand acres were to be
+fired up to windward, which would compel the animals to run before the
+flames, until they reached the netting placed a few paces in front, where
+the high grass had been purposely cleared to resist the advance of the
+fire. Before each section of net, a man was concealed both within and
+without, behind a screen, simply formed of the long grass tied together
+at the top.</p>
+
+<p>“The rule of sport decided that the proprietor of each section of netting
+of twelve yards length would be entitled to all game that should be
+killed within these limits, but that the owners of the manors which
+formed the hunt upon that day should receive a hind-leg from every animal
+captured.</p>
+
+<p>“This was fair play; but in such hunts a breach of the peace was of
+common occurrence, as a large animal might charge the net and receive a
+spear from the owner of the section, after which he might break back, and
+eventually be killed in the net of another hunter; which would cause a
+hot dispute.</p>
+
+<p>“The nets had been arranged with perfect stillness, and the men having
+concealed themselves, we were placed in positions on the extreme flanks
+with the rifles.</p>
+
+<p>“Everything was ready, and men had already been stationed at regular
+intervals about two miles to windward, where they
+waited<!--776.png--><span class="pagenum">767</span>
+with their
+fire-stick for the appointed signal. A shrill whistle disturbed the
+silence. This signal was repeated at intervals to windward. In a few
+minutes after the signal, a long line of separate thin pillars of smoke
+ascended into the blue sky, forming a band extending over about two miles
+of the horizon.</p>
+
+<p>“The thin pillars rapidly thickened, and became dense volumes, until at
+length they united, and formed a long black cloud of smoke that drifted
+before the wind over the bright yellow surface of the high grass. The
+natives were so thoroughly concealed, that no one would have supposed
+that a human being besides ourselves was in the neighborhood. The wind
+was brisk, and the fire travelled at about four miles an hour. We could
+soon hear the distant roar, as the great volume of flame shot high
+through the centre of the smoke.</p>
+
+<p>“Presently I saw a slate-colored mass trotting along the face of the
+opposite slope, about 250 yards distant. I quickly made out a rhinoceros,
+and I was in hopes that he was coming towards me. Suddenly he turned to
+my right, and continued along the face of the inclination.</p>
+
+<p>“Some of the beautiful leucotis antelope, here known as gemsbock, being
+of a small variety, now appeared and centered towards me, but halted when
+they approached the stream, and listened. The game understood the hunting
+as well as the natives. In the same manner that the young children went
+out to hunt with their parents, so had the wild animals been hunted
+together with their parents ever since their birth.</p>
+
+<p>“The leucotis now charged across the stream; at the same time a herd of
+hartebeest dashed past. I knocked over one, and with the left-hand barrel
+I wounded a leucotis. At this moment a lion and lioness, that had been
+disturbed by the fire in our rear, came bounding along. I was just going
+to take a shot, when, as my finger was on the trigger, I saw the head of
+a native rise out of the grass exactly in the line of fire; then another
+head popped up from a native who had been concealed, and rather than risk
+an accident I allowed the lions to pass. In one magnificent bound they
+cleared the stream, and disappeared in the high grass.</p>
+
+<p>“The fire was advancing rapidly, and the game was coming
+up<!--777.png--><span class="pagenum">768</span>
+fast. A
+small herd of leucotis crossed the brook, and I killed another, but the
+smoke had become so thick that I was nearly blinded. It was at length
+impossible to see; the roar of the fire and the heat were terrific, as
+the blast swept before the advancing flames, and filled the air and eyes
+with fine black ashes. I literally had to turn and run hard into fresher
+atmosphere to get a gasp of cool air, and to wipe my streaming eyes. Just
+as I emerged from the smoke, a leucotis came past, and received both the
+right and left bullets in a good place, before it fell.</p>
+
+<p>“The fire reached the stream and at once expired. The wind swept the
+smoke on before, and left in view the velvety black surface, that had
+been completely denuded by the flames.</p>
+
+<p>“The natives had killed many antelopes, but the rhinoceros had gone
+through their nets like a cobweb. Several buffaloes had been seen, but
+they had broken out in a different direction. I had placed five antelopes
+to my credit in this day’s sport.”</p>
+
+<h3>
+VIVI, ON THE CONGO.
+</h3>
+
+<p>“Vivi could be made a beautiful place, if we only had water, but this
+is a big <i>if</i>, and yet I think not impossible. Last Sabbath I went to
+the villages and preached to one king and some of his people. He seemed
+interested and said I must come again. Then we went to another village,
+where they were having a palaver over a sick man. There were many men,
+women, boys, and even babies present.</p>
+
+<p>“Their <i>ngongo</i> (or doctor) was seated in the midst, with the sick man
+near by. The doctor had a cloth spread out in front of him on the ground,
+that contained nearly everything&mdash;vegetable, mineral, animal, birds’
+claws, chickens’ feet, goats’ feet and hides, teeth and claws of wild
+animals. There were also roots, nuts, dirt and many other things. There
+were some leaves lying on top of this collection, with something on them
+that reminded me of a cow’s cud, half-chewed, which he fixt up as a dose.</p>
+
+<p>“He divided the cud in three parts, placing one part in a wooden dish
+with some leaves. Then he cut off bits of roots or something, and put in
+each of these three piles, taking at the same time
+a<!--778.png--><span class="pagenum">769</span>
+little of each in
+his mouth. After chewing it quite thoroughly, he spit several times on
+each pile. After water had been poured on it, the dish was surrounded
+by the women. Then he squeezed the juice out of the little heaps in the
+dish. At two different times the sick man took a swallow of the juice.
+Then the doctor took a sharp knife and cut his own tongue, till it bled
+freely. The blood ran down on a staff and a green leaf that lay in front
+of him; then he took up the leaf and staff and rubbed the blood on
+different parts of his body. This, with much more nonsense, was carried
+on, when I tried to get a hearing, but nothing of this kind could be done
+till the palaver was over, and the sick man was finished.</p>
+
+<p>“I like Vivi, and as we must have a receiving and transport station here,
+I am doing what I can to make it a success. In addition to repairing
+the buildings already here, I am going to put up some stone buildings.
+They will not be expensive, as stone is abundant, and much more durable
+than wood for building, being fire and ant-proof. I am also trying to do
+something in the way of self-support by getting around me some cattle,
+sheep, goats, ducks, chickens, pigeons, etc.; and growing such native
+fruits and produce as do well here at Vivi. This will be convenient in
+the event of war, smallpox or famine&mdash;I mean such famine as might occur
+from not being able to get supplies from home or here, at the time we
+need them. Mr. McKitrick, a gentleman of the A. B. M. U. Mission, called
+a few days ago, saying they could not buy a goat or chicken on the south
+side of the river. In the past few days the Baptists and traders have
+been over here buying chickens. Soon, unless some one turns his attention
+to raising these things, there will be none to buy. They bring now one
+piece and a half (thirty to fifty cents) for one fowl.</p>
+
+<p>“The chief wanted to buy 100 fowls from me a few days ago. With a ready
+sale for all the sheep, goats, ducks, chickens, etc., can you not see
+self-support in the future for Vivi?</p>
+
+<p>“Nearly every steamer brings many Europeans, State men, and missionaries,
+and they are paid salaries, and expect to buy their living instead of
+producing it. They cannot depend on the natives for supplies; they must
+be raised by some one else
+or<!--779.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_770" id="Page_770">770</a></span>
+be imported. Now these are my reasons why
+I think self-support should not be lost sight of.</p>
+
+<p>“All our live stock is doing well, though this is the hard pull for them,
+if there is any; for we have had no rain for about four months, and will
+have none for about three months more. Sheep and goats do well here. This
+is no experiment. The calves, I may soon say cattle, are doing finely. If
+two will do well here, twenty or thirty will do the same, as there is an
+immense range for them to graze over.</p>
+
+<p>“My father keeps a herd of nice wild cattle about a half day’s walk from
+here. He has already given me two whole bullocks since I came to Vivi,
+and also two large deer as big as mules, and a good deal better. I really
+think shipping meat from America or England will soon be a thing of the
+past.</p>
+
+<p>“The buffalo and deer here are likely to last a good while, for though
+they are frequently shot at, few are killed. A buffalo I killed a few
+days ago had in it two slugs, shot by the natives, I suppose. They are a
+sturdy animal, willing to defend themselves and their young to the death,
+and desperate when at bay.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_771.jpg" width="600" height="348"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">BUFFALO DEFENDING HER YOUNG.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>“This country will produce an abundance, but white men must show the
+natives how to do it. It is here now as it used to be in California. The
+last ten years of my life were spent on the Pacific Coast, when thousands
+of people returned from there, abusing the people and the country. I have
+met train after train of returning emigrants, who said: “Go back! go
+back! go back to God’s country! People are starving; all are lies about
+California and Oregon being good countries; on all the Pacific Coast
+there are no places for poor people.”</p>
+
+<p>“But all this did not stop the emigration west, and the Pacific slope
+has proved a rich country. Persons come to Africa, and return giving
+bad reports; still they come, and will come, for this country has great
+advantages.” <span class="smcap">Rev. J. C. Teter.</span></p>
+
+<h3>
+RUM ON THE CONGO.
+</h3>
+
+<p>Bishop Newman has presented to Congress a memorial from the World’s W.
+C. T. U. praying that immediate and decisive steps
+be<!--781.png--><span class="pagenum">772</span>
+taken to suppress
+the liquor traffic in the Congo Free State and the basin of the Niger.
+The memorial shows that during 1885 more than 10,000,000 gallons of the
+cheapest and vilest spirits ever manufactured were sent from the United
+States, Germany, Holland, England, France, and Portugal to the natives of
+Africa. The quantities contributed by the different nations were:</p>
+
+<p>United States, 737,650 gallons; Germany, 7,823,000 gallons; the
+Netherlands, 1,099,146 gallons; France (“pure alcohol”), 406,000 gallons;
+England, 311,400 gallons; Portugal, 91,524 gallons.</p>
+
+<p>The memorial, continuing, says that abundant evidence proves that this
+deadly rum has developed in the natives an alcoholic passion almost
+without parallel, and has sunk them into a state of degradation lower
+than they occupied before they had contact with our commerce and
+civilization. The march of commerce will soon place the rum traders in
+communication with over 50,000,000 of savages, and unless the traffic
+is totally suppressed, the result will be most disastrous to the cause
+of humanity, a reproach to the Christian nations who supply it, and an
+outrage second only to the slave trade itself.</p>
+
+<p>The purposes of the memorial and of the arguments made by Bishop Newman
+and Mr. Hornady are to bring about such a revision of the General Act of
+the Berlin Conference as shall completely suppress the liquor traffic
+in the territory in question; to obtain a law from Congress prohibiting
+the exportation of liquor from this country to any part of Africa, and
+to persuade the United States Government to use its influence to induce
+other governments to co-operate.</p>
+
+<h3>
+PALAVERING.
+</h3>
+
+<p>The council, consultation, or palaver, is one of Africa’s fixed
+institutions. We have unfortunately, and unfairly, adopted the word
+“palaver” to express our notion of what the natives regard with all
+seriousness, and what is, in their polity, as necessary as an American
+deliberative body or a treaty-making power are to us. A “palaver” is
+an idle talk. An African palaver may appear to be very idle to us, and
+considering its length&mdash;sometimes days and even weeks&mdash;it is a terrible
+bore to white people who have to wait till it ends.</p>
+
+<p><!--782.png--><span class="pagenum">773</span></p>
+
+<p>The palaver is universal in Africa. Every village has its council place,
+its assembly hut or its palaver tree. Palaver proceedings are always
+formal and deliberate. There must be a palaver in order to declare war
+and make peace. When one tribe, or chief, asks anything of another, it
+must be granted or refused, through a palaver. Visits of white people to
+a tribe, the right to remain, to trade, to build, to preach, and to go
+away again, are all subjects requiring a palaver. Bishop Taylor has found
+it to be a capital way of making a Christian impression on the minds of
+his African auditors, to call them together in sacred palaver, and he
+secures their assent to such doctrines as they accept, as results of a
+palaver rather than as individual professions.</p>
+
+<p>When parties of native travelers meet in desert, plain or forest, there
+is always a consultation, or palaver. Notes are compared in this way,
+intentions are expressed, views are made known. The palaver, or council,
+is thus the parliament and newspaper of Africa. It runs all through the
+country, just as do the traveling paths, which extend from ocean to
+ocean. You meet it in Bechuanaland, on the Zambesi, at Bih&egrave;, on Nyassa,
+Tanganyika, Victoria Nyanza, the Nile, Congo, Niger, Gambia. Sekhomo of
+Kalihari, squats with his council on burning sands. Mtesa of Uganda,
+holds a council as lordly as the Shah of Persia. Iboko of the Congo,
+palavers for nine days over the landing of a little steamer.</p>
+
+<p>Irksome as the palaver must prove to white people, it ought not to be
+forgotten that natives enjoy it, and its sessions are valves for the
+escape of passions which otherwise might result in great harm.</p>
+
+<h3>
+EMIN PASHA AT ZANZIBAR.
+</h3>
+
+<p>For weeks after the arrival of Stanley and his rescuing party at
+Zanzibar, the life of Emin Pasha, on account of his severe accident, was
+despaired of. Indeed, not until a very late period has he been able to
+communicate with any one. Meanwhile, rumors of difference between him and
+Stanley became current, and the opinion was entertained that Emin would
+not go to Europe at all, but only awaited an opportunity to return again
+to his abandoned provinces.</p>
+
+<p><!--783.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_774" id="Page_774">774</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_774.jpg" width="600" height="383"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SEKHOMO AND HIS COUNCIL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--784.png--><span class="pagenum">775</span></p>
+
+<p>One of his first visitors, after his illness, was an American journalist,
+who secured the following points:</p>
+
+<p>“The American people would very much like you to say, in plain language,
+Pasha, so that all may fully understand, why you left your post and came
+out with Mr. Stanley?”</p>
+
+<p>“Well, you see,” replied Emin, “Mr. Stanley brought orders from the
+Khedive of Egypt for me to return with him. I am an Egyptian officer,
+and have no option but to obey the Khedive’s orders. I did not wish to
+leave, and if the Khedive should order me back again to-morrow, and would
+provide me with men and means to maintain my position, I would return
+with the greatest pleasure.”</p>
+
+<p>“Do you wish the American public to understand, then, Pasha, that you
+could have maintained your position and were under no necessity of coming
+away with Mr. Stanley, had you not received orders from the Khedive to do
+so?”</p>
+
+<p>“I think if Mr. Stanley would have consented to wait, much could have
+been done. Things had got to be very bad, however, and Mr. Stanley would
+not wait. He seemed only anxious that I and my people, the Egyptians,
+should go as quickly as we could with him to the coast.”</p>
+
+<p>“Were you and your people in great need of assistance when Mr. Stanley
+reached you, Pasha?”</p>
+
+<p>“We were very glad to have Mr. Stanley come to our relief, of course, and
+we all feel very grateful to the people of England for the great interest
+they have taken in us; but we were in no great need of anything but
+ammunition. Food was very plenty with us.</p>
+
+<p>“The soldiers had gardens, cows, wives, and plenty of everything to eat.
+They were much better off than they ever had been in Egypt or the Soudan.
+They had come to regard the province as their home and had no wish to
+ever return to Egypt. They considered that they were fighting for their
+homes, and so fought well and bravely so long as there was a chance of
+success and the hope of assistance from our friends without. It was only
+when there was no longer anything to hope for, and when we read to them
+the message that they must leave with Mr. Stanley or never expect any
+more assistance from the Egyptian Government, that they began to waver in
+their allegiance to me. Poor fellows, what could they
+do?<!--785.png--><span class="pagenum">776</span>
+They didn’t
+wish to leave; the Khalifa’s forces were advancing up the Nile, they
+now had everything to gain and nothing to lose by turning against me.
+I do not blame them; they are but Africans, and nothing else was to be
+expected of them.</p>
+
+<p>“Mr. Stanley was in such haste to go, he would not wait. If Mr. Stanley
+had consented to wait we might have pushed forward stations to the
+northeast corner of the Victoria Nyanza, and there we could have met
+the English Company’s caravans. I do not know Mr. Stanley’s reasons for
+being in such a hurry to leave. Perhaps he himself will tell you this.”
+(Mr. Stanley had already said that after getting Emin and as many of his
+people who wanted to go, together, at Kavalis, his great concern was to
+get them safely to the coast. As for attempting to open new roads with a
+crowd of helpless women and children in his charge, he couldn’t think of
+such a thing, etc.)</p>
+
+<p>“It was rumored that you had vast stores of ivory in hand, Pasha; what of
+that?”</p>
+
+<p>“Ivory! I had collected for the Government more than 6,000 fine large
+tusks since our communication had been cut off. I had ivory enough, if I
+could have got it to market, to have paid off all the back salaries of
+my people, and have had a handsome surplus besides.” (Six thousand fine
+large tusks would weigh in the neighborhood of 200 American tons, worth
+in Zanzibar about $6,000 per ton. The value in Emin’s stations would, of
+course, in no wise approach this great sum of value&mdash;$1,200,000. Emin
+told the writer that he valued his stores of ivory, as they lay in his
+stations, at about &pound;70,000.)</p>
+
+<p>“We couldn’t bring it with us,” the Pasha continued, “so I threw most of
+it into the Nile to prevent the enemy from getting it. Some, however, in
+outlying stations I intrusted to the care of friendly native chiefs, not
+knowing what chances and what opportunities time might bring.”</p>
+
+<h3>
+THE SAS TOWN TRIBE OF WEST AFRICA.
+</h3>
+
+<p>“The officers of this tribe are as follows:</p>
+
+<p>“The ‘town master’ is really emperor, as in him is vested the power of
+life and death. If the tribe wishes to disobey a
+town<!--786.png--><span class="pagenum">777</span>
+master’s commands,
+they must kill him first. This is done in so many instances that few town
+masters die a natural death.</p>
+
+<p>“The ‘ground king’ is their weather prophet, and he is supposed to
+manufacture the weather. He may be king for only a month or two, seldom
+long, as the weather he makes may not suit.</p>
+
+<p>“Their ‘soldier king’ answers to our general in the army.</p>
+
+<p>“They have three ‘butchers,’ who do all the killing for the feasts.</p>
+
+<p>“Their ‘town lawyer’ answers to our attorney-general.</p>
+
+<p>“The duty of their ‘peace-maker’ is what his name indicates.</p>
+
+<p>“They have thirty old men or chiefs, whose duties are to watch the town
+and people, and to act as the king’s cabinet.</p>
+
+<p>“The laws of the tribe are made by the king and his cabinet. Some of them
+are curious, and sometimes severe. For instance, one law forbids the town
+master and the butchers from ever leaving the town, on pain of death.
+Another is that when a person is accused of witchery, he or she must
+drink the deadly saswood, or have their brains knocked out. This tea is a
+potion from the saswood tree, which grows all over this country and is a
+deadly poison. To make sure of its full effect, the suspected person is
+made to drink a copious draft. As this is likely to produce emesis, the
+large quantity is often their salvation.</p>
+
+<p>“These people are so superstitious that they will not leave a hole in
+their house open at night for fear of being witched.</p>
+
+<p>“Here polygamy has all the evils of that life. If a wife is dissatisfied
+with her husband, she can run away to any man she chooses, and he must
+receive her, and pay to her former husband the price he paid for her.
+This may put the second man to quite a disadvantage, often giving him
+more wives than he can pay for. The lot of a wife is very hard. She must
+make the farm, grow all the rice, carry all the wood, seven or eight
+miles, on her head, and do all the cooking. Besides this she must stand
+all the ill-temper of her jealous husband, and this, perhaps, with a baby
+strapped on her back.</p>
+
+<p>“When a man thinks one of his wives is unchaste, he gets a pan of
+palm-oil, and heating it as hot as he can, he makes the wife put her hand
+in and pick up a stone from the bottom of the pan;
+his<!--787.png--><span class="pagenum">778</span>
+theory being,
+that, if his charge be true, the oil will catch fire and burn her hand.
+If this does not satisfy him, the poisonous draught of the saswood is
+resorted to.</p>
+
+<p>“These people eat nearly everything that grows, animal or vegetable.
+I have seen them eat elephant lungs, green ants, chicken heads and
+intestines. When they kill a bullock, they eat all of him, even cooking
+the hide with the hair on. As I said, everything goes for food, even
+rotten bananas. But with all of their rotten chop, they are healthy,
+strong and vigorous men, women and children.</p>
+
+<p>“Their only garment is about four feet of cloth, for all those above
+sixteen years of age; those younger go entirely naked.</p>
+
+<p>“They all sleep on the bare ground with a stick for a pillow, and of
+course, skin diseases are quite prevalent.</p>
+
+<p>“They are a kind people to one another. I have stood at the spring, when
+the women were coming after water, which they carry in four-gallon pots
+on the top of their head, and one always helps the other to lift her load
+up, and so it is in everything. If a party of natives are together, and
+you give them a banana, it is divided between every one of them. I very
+seldom hear a baby cry; and I must say that here babies have a chance to
+live, as they are not weaned for two years, and are humored in every way.</p>
+
+<p>“The Sas-Town tribes work hard for the white man, for very little pay. I
+have seen a woman carry a box, weighing 120 pounds, two and a half miles
+for two leaves of tobacco, worth one and one-eighth cents.</p>
+
+<p>“These people are ignorant, but willing and quick to learn. They have
+some natural orators among them, as I have seen at their ‘palavers.’”
+<span class="smcap">C. E. Gunnison.</span></p>
+
+<h3>
+AN INTERRUPTED JOURNEY.
+</h3>
+
+<p>When Livingstone was marching down the valley of the Zambezi, and had
+crossed its great northern affluent, the Loangwe, he found himself and
+party of carriers in the midst of a dense forest. All of his riding
+oxen had been killed by the tsetse fly, except one, and this had been
+so reduced in strength as to be unable to
+carry<!--788.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_779" id="Page_779">779</a></span>
+the traveler more than
+half the time. Therefore such a thing as forced journeys were out of the
+question. There was nothing to do but to proceed leisurely, and this the
+party were doing,&mdash;pushing now through thick clumps of forest, and now
+through tangled bush, as best they might.</p>
+
+<p>While thus threading their way through a forest clump, there was a rush
+and a roar off to the left, and almost instantly three huge buffaloes
+made their appearance, running as if they been badly frightened in
+the direction whence they came. As the bush was thick and high, they
+evidently did not see that their course was directly athwart that of the
+traveling party, and so they rushed right into the midst of the carriers,
+before they had time to clear the way. Livingstone’s ox, frightened at
+the unexpected dash, made a plunge forward, nearly throwing its rider
+off, but thereby escaping the fury of the charging buffaloes. When he
+turned, he saw one of his carriers flying through the air at a height of
+twenty feet, having been tossed by the foremost of the animals, whose
+fright seems to have been turned into rage at sight of human beings.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_780.jpg" width="600" height="348"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AN INTERRUPTED JOURNEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The buffaloes rushed by and Livingstone hastened to his carrier,
+expecting to find him dead or badly gored. But strange to say he was
+only bruised and frightened, and was quickly able to resume his load. On
+inquiry, Livingstone found that the carrier had drawn his misfortune on
+himself. Instead of doing as the others had done, making for a friendly
+tree, he had thrown down his load, and as the leading buffalo was dashing
+by, he had given it a vicious stab in the side, whereupon the beast had
+savagely turned upon him and sent him high into the air.</p>
+
+<h3>
+IN MONROVIA.
+</h3>
+
+<p>“The heathen that leap out of the vices and degradation and superstition
+and the deep darkness of their former lives, into active, working,
+intelligent Christians, are, I am inclined to think, the product of
+a facile pen from an overhopeful brain. It is not easy to shake off
+lifetime habits, customs hoary, and to them venerable, because their
+ancestors as far back as can be traced, have
+practiced<!--790.png--><span class="pagenum">781</span>
+them, and at once
+ascend into the region of a sublime faith, and from visible objects and
+ceremonies whereby wrath of the great demon power is averted, and his
+favor propitiated, turn to the King, invisible, immortal.</p>
+
+<p>“The cerements of old superstition enwrap them. Neither can we ‘loose him
+and let him go’ the moment the new desires are born in him. His efforts
+are something like a child that is just learning to walk; he takes a step
+or two, wavers and drops back into some past habit, but like a child he
+is helped up and put on his feet again. I went down to Krutown last week
+to school. I heard tom-toms and saw the people on one street out for a
+gala day&mdash;all ‘dressed up,’ The women were painted with different kinds
+of clay, and had a great quantity of leopard teeth around their wrists
+and neck, plenty of brass anklets and armlets, and a towel or breakfast
+shawl thrown loosely and gracefully over one shoulder. Quite a number
+had on a cloth extending nearly to their feet, but all their bodies were
+bare to the hips; a great many held silk umbrellas over their heads,
+and all had a self-conscious air of being ‘well dressed.’ I went on and
+opened school. One of my Bible scholars was absent, a man of 40 or 45,
+who had learned to read, and showed such a meek and quiet spirit. I named
+him Fletcher. I asked where Fletcher was. ‘Him got a new wife, you no
+see that big play? Well that be him friends making for him.’ Next day
+he was in his place as usual. I asked why he took another wife. ‘Mammy,
+the woman done run away from him husband and come to me, and I no fittee
+send him back; I take him.’ That was all there was, no feeling of having
+done wrong. Polygamy is the greatest obstacle one meets in this part of
+Africa. The women are ashamed to belong&mdash;yes, belong, for the man buys
+her&mdash;to a man who is so poor he cannot buy more than one or two wives.
+It is not the patriarchal system some think, for the women are every
+now and then running away to some other man. Some never say a word, but
+let the man have his wife, others demand the amount the husband paid
+for her, others again make a big palaver. A court is called and after
+several hearings, which sometimes last two and three weeks, the wife
+is restored or returned to her husband, and both seem satisfied. It is
+almost impossible to do any teaching
+or<!--791.png--><span class="pagenum">782</span>
+evangelistic work when one man’s
+wife runs away to another man&mdash;the latter’s friends make merry by beating
+tom-toms, singing, dancing and drinking rum.</p>
+
+<p>“These are some of the things that a missionary has to meet, and which
+greatly retard the work. Then time has no value to them. Plenty of
+<i>chop</i>, and not a desire and not an emotion beyond that. Like the
+prostrate figure in Peale’s Court of Death, the head and feet touch the
+waters of oblivion. So with the heathen here; the past and the future are
+alike impenetrable, incomprehensible.” <span class="smcap">Mary Sharp.</span></p>
+
+<h3>
+A SAMPLE SERMON.
+</h3>
+
+<p>The following is a sample sermon in Kru English which has been found well
+adapted for the comprehension of the Cavalla river natives:</p>
+
+<p>Niswa make many worlds. Most of the stars are worlds much larger than
+this world, and I believe Niswa has plenty good people in all of them.
+The devils once had “their habitation” in one of those great worlds.
+They were good spirits then, and very strong, but they live for make bad
+and fight against Niswa, and were driven away from their home, and “fell
+like lightning from heaven,” and they hide away in the dark caves of our
+world. They be fit to live in this world till it finish. Then all the
+devils that come down from their great world, and all the bad people of
+this world will be condemned at Niswa’s judgment seat and be sent down
+to hell&mdash;“the place prepared for the devil” and all his followers. There
+they will all be locked in forever.</p>
+
+<p>This world is one of the little worlds that Niswa made, and for people
+for this world he made one man and one woman, and join them together as
+man and wife. The man and his wife were clean and pure like Niswa.</p>
+
+<p>One fine day the chief devil of all the army of them came and make
+palaver with the woman, and she make palaver with her husband, and the
+man and woman got bad, and join the devil in his rebellion against
+Niswa. As soon as they turned against Niswa and joined the devil’s army
+to fight against Him, the devil-nature struck right through them. Then
+they were called
+to<!--792.png--><span class="pagenum">783</span>
+answer at the bar of justice before the great King,
+and were found guilty and condemned to die. Their bodies be fit to rot
+in the ground, and their spirits to be turned with all the devils into
+hell forever. The Saswood cup of death and hell was put into the hands
+of the man and woman to drink. Niswa has one Son just like himself. Not
+a son born of a mother. Niswa no be born of a woman. He be Niswa without
+“beginning of days or end of life.” So His Beloved Son, just like Him, be
+without “beginning of days or end of life.” Niswa and his Son look at the
+man and woman and their cup of death and feel very sorry for them. Then
+the Son pray, “O Father, let me ransom this man and woman and all their
+seed.” Then Niswa and his Beloved Son have palaver, and make agreement
+about the man and woman. The Father agree to give His Son a ransom for
+them. The Son agree at a set time to join himself to a son born from “the
+seed of the woman” and live with her children, and show them the mind,
+the light, the love of Niswa; and teach them all Niswa’s good ways, and
+then drink their Saswood cup of death&mdash;to die for them, and the third day
+after to rise again from the dead, to be forever their living redeemer,
+their lawyer in Niswa’s court, and their doctor to heal them.</p>
+
+<h3>
+THE SCRAMBLE FOR AFRICA.
+</h3>
+
+<p>The extent of European territorial annexation of Africa, provisional,
+protective or positive, is quite surprising even to those who have kept
+pretty close watch of it. Of the eleven millions of square miles in
+Africa, six and one-half millions are attached to some European power;
+and of the four and a half unattached parts, half lie within the desert
+of Sahara.</p>
+
+<p>That, therefore, is to say that all the continent of Africa that is
+habitable, except about two million square miles, is under European
+domination. Europe has annexed Africa. The “British East African Company”
+is practically another European State in Africa, for it is granted full
+powers to levy taxes and customs and to maintain an armed force. Whether
+another generation will look upon all this as civilized brigandage,
+or whether it is any better than free-booting of any other type, does
+not materially affect the
+facts<!--793.png--><span class="pagenum">784</span>
+in the case. The British government,
+through its colonial or foreign office, nevertheless has authorized this
+company (new State) to carry on high piracy of much of the finest land
+in Central Africa filled with an industrious population, said to number
+about Lake Nyanza alone twelve millions of people. We are told that the
+company is composed of philanthropic gentlemen in London, and we have no
+doubt but that the ultimate result will be good&mdash;“the Earth will help the
+woman”&mdash;but it is nevertheless difficult to detect any under-lying moral
+principle above</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">“He may take who has the power<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And he may keep who can.”<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>And while the lion and the lamb in this millennial reign lie down
+together in peace, it is because the lamb is inside of the lion.</p>
+
+<p>But Great Britain is not alone in this missionary zeal that “out of
+the eater shall come forth meat and out of the strong shall come forth
+sweetness,” though her “sphere of influence” is a million square miles
+of the Dark Continent. France exercises the sweet charities of modern
+politics over 700,000 square miles, and Germany seeks to convert, <i>en
+bloc</i>, if not to Christianity, at least to modern German trade-gain,
+200,000 square miles, about which she now disputes, to add to the 740,000
+she has without debate already. Meanwhile the king of Portugal takes
+“military occupation” of a tract of land north of Loanda and creates an
+“attachment” for it to the king of Portugal; and the British government
+“annexes” that part of the Gold Coast between Cape Coast Castle and the
+delta of the Niger; and what with treaties, “military operations” and
+“protectorates,” Africa becomes rapidly a sort of “country store” run by
+European merchants.</p>
+
+<p>Barring the radical ethical question in the case, perhaps we may rejoice
+in the bare hope that all this is “casting up the highway for the
+progress of Christianity;” but if what with rum and gunpowder these races
+are to be “civilized off the face of the Earth,” as we have done with our
+native American races, it would seem that there must nevertheless be a
+great reckoning day with the Christian powers, that they could find no
+better way of developing Africa than by fertilizing her soil with the
+carcasses of her sons.</p>
+
+<p><!--794.png--><span class="pagenum">785</span></p>
+
+<h3>
+LIONS AND A GIRAFFE.
+</h3>
+
+<p>The lions of Africa are night prowlers. Very few have ever seen them
+seize their prey in the day-time. Capt. Anderson once witnessed such a
+scene. Late one evening he badly wounded a lion, and on the following
+morning set out with his attendants to track the game and complete the
+capture. “Presently,” he writes, “we came upon traces of a troop of
+lions and a giraffe. The tracks were thick and confusing, and while
+we were trying to pick out those of the wounded lion, I observed my
+native attendants suddenly rush forward, and the next instant the jungle
+resounded with their shouts of triumph.</p>
+
+<p>“Thinking they had discovered the object of our search, I hurried
+forward; but imagine my surprise when, emerging into an opening in the
+jungle, I saw, not the dead lion, as I had expected, but five living
+lions&mdash;two males and three females&mdash;two of whom were engaged in pulling
+down a splendid giraffe, the other three watching close at hand, and with
+devouring look, the deadly strife.</p>
+
+<p>“The scene was of so unusual and exciting a nature that for the moment I
+quite forgot I carried a gun. The natives, however, in expectation of a
+glorious feast, dashed madly forward with the most piercing shrieks, and
+their yells compelled the lions to beat a hasty retreat. When I reached
+the giraffe, now stretched at full length on the ground, it made a few
+ineffectual attempts to raise its head, fell over, heaving and quivering
+throughout its entire body, and at length straightened itself out in
+death. An examination showed several deep gashes about the breast and
+flanks, made by the claws of the fierce assailants. The strong and tough
+muscles of the elongated neck were also bitten through in many places.
+All thought of further pursuit of the wounded lion was now out of the
+question. The natives now gathered about the dead giraffe, and did not
+desist from feasting upon it till its entire carcass had been devoured. A
+day or two afterwards, however, I came upon the bloody tracks of my royal
+antagonist, and had the pleasure of finishing him with a well directed
+bullet from my rifle.”</p>
+
+<p><!--795.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_786" id="Page_786">786</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 409px;">
+<img src="images/i_786.jpg" width="409" height="600"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">LIONS PULLING DOWN A GIRAFFE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--796.png--><span class="pagenum">787</span></p>
+
+<h3>
+KILIMANJARO.
+</h3>
+
+<p>In passing southward from Lake Albert Nyanza, Stanley and the rescued
+Emin, together with their large party, skirted a lofty range of
+mountains, whose highest peak is Kilimanjaro, which has lately been
+ascended for the distance of 16,500 feet, to the snow line, by two German
+scientists and explorers, thus giving it a distinct place in geography,
+and setting it forth as one of the most interesting of natural objects.</p>
+
+<p>The region is south of the great Uganda and Unyoro tribes, and had, up
+to Stanley’s trip through it, never been visited by a traveler of note
+except Thomas Stevens and Dr. Abbott, who thus narrate what they saw:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>“First we determined to pay a visit to the chief of Machawe in order
+to make purchases of food, and besides, we anticipated much pleasure
+in visiting a chief who had never yet set eyes on a white man. Our
+way led through a very charming plain country, very African in its
+appearance. The gently undulating plains were dotted with small cones
+of a hundred feet, or thereabout, in height, so small, symmetrical and
+uniform in shape as to suggest bubbles floating on the green waves of
+the plain. Rhinoceri, giraffes, antelopes, buffalo and zebra abounded
+in great numbers, roaming over the free, broad plains like herds of
+cattle. Whenever we knocked over any of these, it was very refreshing
+and soothing to the spirits to see the very men who but yesterday had
+declared ‘the nyama was not food’ fling down their loads and quarrel
+violently over big chunks of that very article. As we neared the
+approaches to Machawe, we came upon a party of Masai women and donkeys,
+wending their way towards Sigarari with loads of vegetable food, which
+they had purchased at the former place or at Kibonoto. These were the
+first real Masai women we had seen. They were not such as to give
+us a very favorable idea of their sex in Sigarari. All were old and
+atrociously ugly, it being customary, for obvious reasons, to send the
+ancient dames of the clan on these food-purchasing expeditions, rather
+than the possessors of youth and beauty.</p>
+
+<p>“Even though the Masai and their agricultural neighbors may be at war,
+and the men of either side would, if caught, be
+brutally<!--797.png--><span class="pagenum">788</span>
+speared, it
+is the custom to let the women pass back and forth unmolested to trade.
+Africans, even the Masai, who are supposed to be chiefly devoted to war
+and raiding for cattle, are above all else commercial in their instincts.
+It appears that, with all their savagery, choice scraps of wisdom are to
+be picked up among these people here and there. Who could imagine the
+armies of two European countries proceeding against each other while the
+trade across the frontier flourished unimpaired in the care of their
+women?</p>
+
+<p>“We camped near a swamp, in which we found abundant signs of elephants,
+but saw none of them, and in the morning proceeded to Machawe. Machawe is
+the largest and most populous of the Kilimanjaro States, and, with its
+neighbor, Kibonoto, occupies the western extremity of the cultivatable
+plateau that distinguishes the mountain on its southern slopes. Though
+the largest, it is the least known to Europeans, and so we looked forward
+to a novel and interesting visit to its Sultan and people.</p>
+
+<p>“The approaches to Machawe consist of the usual narrow, tortuous paths,
+leading through dense thickets of scrubby and thorny vegetation, and
+instead of gates the defenses by this route are deep, narrow ravines,
+which have been trimmed down and deepened into big trenches. A pole
+thrown across one of these ditches forms a bridge, which the natives,
+sure of foot as monkeys, cross over and, in times of war, remove.</p>
+
+<p>“Crossing these obstacles with no little difficulty, we at once found
+ourselves in the proximity of banana groves, and objects of more than
+usual interest to swarms of bronze-skinned warriors who had in a
+remarkably short time collected on the adjacent ridges. We wondered
+where they had all come from so quickly. They were by no means certain
+of our intentions, and for some time held aloof, watching us with the
+keenest interest. At length we managed to make them understand that
+our intentions were commercial only, and a few of the more venturesome
+individuals came and pointed out a place for us to camp. After much
+talkee-talkee with an ancient and exceedingly peaceful-looking savage in
+a greasy goat-skin toga and anklets of the same material, we sent off a
+present to the Sultan and stated our intention of paying him a visit next
+day.</p>
+
+<p>“Our delegation was hospitably entertained by the chief, with
+a<!--798.png--><span class="pagenum">789</span>
+goat
+and big jars of pombe, but the men were kept in the royal boma until our
+appearance next day; this as a guarantee, so we afterwards understood,
+that we would keep our promise and come to see him. He was most anxious
+to receive us, and particularly requested that the entire caravan might
+be brought to his residence.</p>
+
+<p>“We had no idea how far it was nor how difficult might be the way. It
+turned out to be up hill and down dale for many trying miles, through
+banana plantations of astonishing area and across clear, cold mountain
+streams that nearly swept us off our feet.</p>
+
+<p>“The country was lovely, a chaotic jumble of narrow hills and dales and
+the whole sloping gently up towards Kibo and clothed with luxuriant
+vegetation of every shade of green. Everywhere could be heard the music
+of mountain streams coursing over rocky beds at the bottom of the ca&ntilde;ons
+or leaping and tumbling over cataracts or down rapids. Between the banana
+plantations stood little patches of primeval forest, and about them, so
+characteristic of Chaga, were the charming little parks we have noted in
+Marangu. The groves are believed to be peopled with the shades of their
+ancestors, and native offerings are placed before the trees. Troops of
+big reddish baboons also make the groves and the little parks their homes.</p>
+
+<p>“Irrigating ditches were everywhere, and narrow lanes of drac&aelig;na hedges
+divided the plantations. At length we came to a halt on a strip of
+sward, at the brink of a formidable ca&ntilde;on several hundred feet deep,
+down which coursed one of the largest streams we had yet encountered.
+Our guides wanted to conduct us across this, but we had grown tired of
+the interminable slippery paths and the ascending and descending steep
+ravines, and so decided to form camp on this extremely interesting spot.
+No more charming situation could be imagined. Five hundred feet below us
+a torrent, clear as crystal, cold and fresh from the glaciers of Kibo,
+tumbled and foamed over the rocks or raced along with gurgling tones.
+Immediately beyond the chasm a broad table-land of parks and groves and
+banana plantations stretched away with a slope of one in twenty. The
+variegated shades of green in the irregular patchwork of forest, park
+and field, made a most delightful study in colors. Nor was this all
+nature had to show our wondering
+eyes<!--799.png--><span class="pagenum">790</span>
+in Machawe. Hundreds of warriors,
+with spear and shield, their naked forms the only dark objects in the
+landscape, showed out in bold contrast and picturesque relief against
+the green ground-work of their surroundings as they stood and squatted
+in dense groups or stretched in long, irregular lines along the opposite
+brink of the ca&ntilde;on. Beyond all this was a dense mass of cloud that
+rested on the farther reaches of the green table-land and hid almost the
+whole of Kilimanjaro. But not all, for the higher strata of the clouds
+sometimes broke and revealed the eternal wreath of snow on Kibo, at whose
+very base we now seemed to be standing. Some day an artist will come and
+paint this picture I have feebly attempted to describe and make himself
+famous.</p>
+
+<p>“Our first impression of the Sultan, or chief, was not very favorable.
+He was a young man of medium stature, under thirty, but he looked like a
+drunkard and debauchee and a decided expression of brutishness marked his
+face. His voice was thick and husky, but whether from extreme indulgence
+in pombe, or from an attack of laryngitis, was not then apparent. There
+was, however, small room for doubt about his being a constant worshiper
+at the shrines of the twin deities, before which every chief in Chaga,
+and well-nigh everyone in Africa, bows the knee. But whatever he might
+ordinarily be, he seemed determined to make as good an impression as he
+knew how upon his rare visitors, and before we left Machawe we voted him,
+notwithstanding first impressions, a very good sort of a fellow.</p>
+
+<p>“Knowing that we had visited Miljali and intended visiting Mandara, both
+of whom were to the native mind possessed of many wondrous things from
+Europe, the Sultan of Machawe, ashamed of his poverty, seemed reluctant
+to take us inside his boma. He seemed bewildered and over-awed by the
+importance of the occasion. Anxious to do anything he could think of
+to please his visitors, he and all his elders were too ignorant of the
+white man’s character and requirements to know just what to do. The whole
+assembly appeared to be in a profound puzzle. We, on our part, made him
+the customary present of cloth, beads and wire. We showed him his own
+bloated features for the first time in a mirror, and amazed him with the
+ticking of a Waterbury
+watch.<!--800.png--><span class="pagenum">791</span>
+After much discussion among themselves,
+he and his elders seemed to make up their minds that the proper thing
+would be to take us into the royal boma, poverty or no poverty. The boma
+itself was a poor affair. It consisted of a small stockade of planks set
+on end, which had been laboriously hewn from big logs with native tools.
+Inside the stockade were several houses of very neat construction and of
+a pattern that is peculiar to Machawe. Instead of the bee-hive houses of
+Marangu and Taveta, the Machawe hut is of an exaggerated bell-shape.</p>
+
+<p>“Just outside this boma was an inclosure of quite another sort&mdash;the kraal
+in which were kept the royal cattle. This was a remarkable affair, and
+strong enough to be a pretty good sort of a fort. Young trees had been
+planted in a ring to form a fence. They were planted in such numbers,
+and so close together, that as they grew up, they formed a living wall
+of tree trunks several feet thick, and so compact that one could not see
+through it.</p>
+
+<p>“To our astonishment the king’s boma seemed to contain no women, a most
+extraordinary state of affairs, and when we asked the question as to the
+number of wives he had&mdash;always a complimentary piece of curiosity at an
+African court&mdash;he smiled and shook his head.</p>
+
+<p>“‘What, none!&mdash;why. Miljali, of Marangu, has fourteen, and Mandara, of
+Moschi, many more than that.’</p>
+
+<p>“Our looks of surprise and incredulity set the chief and all his elders
+to laughing. There was evidently a ‘nigger in the fence’ somewhere. This
+full-blown, sensuous-faced young potentate without a harem? Impossible.
+And then one of us remembered that, contrary to our experience elsewhere
+in the country, the fair sex in Machawe had kept themselves well out
+of sight as our caravan passed their houses. They were too timid and
+superstitious to let themselves be seen by the white strangers, who
+might, for all they knew, take it into their heads to assail them with
+their mysterious powers of <i>ichawi</i> (black magic) which everybody knew
+they possessed to an alarming degree. The Sultan had wives, then&mdash;a
+goodly number, no doubt&mdash;but all had scampered off and hid themselves at
+our approach, fearful of <i>ichawi</i>.</p>
+
+<p>“Bacchus seemed to have rather the upper hand at Ngamini’s primitive
+court. I doubt if anything weaker than millet pombe
+is<!--801.png--><span class="pagenum">792</span>
+ever drunk inside
+the royal boma. During our visit that beverage flowed as freely as beer
+in a brewery. A huge jar of it was lugged in and placed in the middle
+of the assembly, and men ladled it out and passed around the gourds
+continually.</p>
+
+<p>“The Sultan was opulent enough in the matter of pombe, if not in European
+goods, and so did his best to win our approval of his immense resources
+in that product. He took us into his brewery, a smaller inclosure
+that formed an annex to his resident kraal, and enjoyed immensely our
+astonishment at the vast size of the vats. These were earthenware jars,
+of bulbous shape, eight in number, and each capable of holding two
+hundred gallons or more of liquor. I had seen wine jars as large, though
+of different shape, in Persia, but never expected to find such giant
+pottery in a Chaga state.</p>
+
+<p>“In brewing pombe the millet, or wimbi, is first pounded with stones to
+break the grain, then boiled in earthen kettles until it resembles thin
+cereal soup; the whole is then emptied into the big jars, covered with a
+cowhide and allowed to ferment. When dipped out for use the sediment is
+stirred up from the bottom, as also when dipped from smaller vessels to
+be passed around. Pombe in this condition is a solid tipple, which comes
+as near being both food and drink as anything of an intoxicating nature
+can be, and many an African chief all but lives on it. It has a pleasant
+twang to it, and the European soon comes to like it almost as well as the
+native boozer does. It goes to the head, too. A pint puts a white man
+in a joyous frame of mind and sets a negro, who effervesces easier than
+his white brother, to singing and whooping. The chiefs, however, are as
+a general thing animated pombe sponges, constantly soaked and with the
+gourd seldom out of reach.”</p>
+
+<h3>
+A HUNT ON THE ZAMBESI.
+</h3>
+
+<p>The accounts of all African travelers agree, that both vegetable and
+animal life in Africa is rankest and noblest on the banks of the Zambesi.
+Volumes might be written of thrilling adventures in this extensive
+region. “One night,” says a noted traveler, “while journeying up the
+Zambesi, and just as we had fixed our tents for a good night’s rest, a
+native came rushing in with the news that two lions had been seen in
+the vicinity. The men wanted
+to<!--803.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_794" id="Page_794">794</a></span>
+go out and look for them immediately,
+but I dissuaded them from encountering the dangers of a night hunt, and
+promised that I would accompany them on the morrow.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_793.jpg" width="600" height="379"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">HUNTING LIONS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>“Early next morning the men were astir and busy with their preparations
+for a grand hunt. We had dogs with us, and when all was ready, these were
+let loose. A guide led the way to where he had seen the lions on the
+previous evening, but long before we had gone so far, and while making
+our way up a ridge, a noise like muttering thunder reached our ears from
+the valley beyond the ridge. The guide stopped, listened for a moment,
+and then, half in fear and half in astonishment, gasped, “The lions!”</p>
+
+<p>“He refused to pilot us further, but sought the nearest tree and took
+refuge amid its branches. The rest of the party pushed on, and on peering
+over the top of the ridge saw an immense lion lying in the edge of a
+jungle. Our dogs scented him and made a dash toward him. The beast arose
+with a bound, and rushed out into the open. This was too much for the
+dogs, and they beat a hasty retreat.</p>
+
+<p>“In a moment more the lion was joined by his mate, and both were now in
+plain sight, both crouching and beating the ground with their tails, as
+if about to make an attack. I took a position a few steps in advance of
+our party, aimed deliberately from a kneeling posture, and sent a bullet
+into the side of the male lion just behind the foreleg. Being so close
+and so deliberate in my aim, and my weapon being of a superior kind, I
+expected to see the beast turn over in the agonies of death. But instead,
+he made two or three desperate bounds toward our party, and in his last
+leap, which was a dying spasm, fell directly on the body of Shumi, one
+of our native employes. The poor fellow was frightened almost to death,
+and shrieked as though the lion’s fangs and claws were actually rending
+his flesh. But in a moment we all saw that no harm was coming to Shumi,
+for the lion had simply made his last supreme effort, and had fallen in a
+quivering, helpless mass upon the object of his attack.</p>
+
+<p>“We now turned our attention to the lioness. Two shots were fired at her,
+which sent her wounded and growling into the jungle. Our party formed a
+front, and marched cautiously toward the jungle, prepared to fire, at
+first sight of the game. Our
+precautions<!--804.png--><span class="pagenum">795</span>
+proved to be unnecessary, for
+we soon discovered the beast too far advanced in her dying throes to be
+capable of harm to us. Both shots had taken effect in mortal parts. We
+secured, that day, two of the handsomest lion’s skins I ever saw.”</p>
+
+<h3>
+OPENING A KRU-COAST MISSION.
+</h3>
+
+<p>“At Sas Town, Monday morning, April 11, 1887, we had a big palaver. It
+broke up abruptly in a storm of passion amid the thunder of stentorian
+voices&mdash;a half a hundred big men all talking at once and shouting
+‘batyeo! batyeo!’&mdash;same as ‘suno! suno!’ in Hindustani&mdash;or in English,
+‘listen! attention! attention!’ all shouting for a hearing and no
+listeners.</p>
+
+<p>“So the king said, ‘We will go away, and when they cool down I will call
+them together again.’</p>
+
+<p>“When we met again I re-stated our proposals to found a school for
+book-study and hard work with the hands of teachers and scholars, and to
+make mission for God palaver, according to the terms of our agreement, as
+stated in our written articles.</p>
+
+<p>“They responded with great unanimity, ‘Yes, we want you to come and make
+school and mission, and when your carpenters come we help them to make
+house.’</p>
+
+<p>“I suspected a reservation in their minds in regard to the no-pay
+condition, so I asked Nimly to re-state and explain, so they could not
+misunderstand our terms. He made a clear explanation and an eloquent
+speech in the Kru language&mdash;a commanding, fluent speaker is Nimly.</p>
+
+<p>“The king replied, ‘Our people won’t work without pay.’</p>
+
+<p>“‘That is right,’ I replied, ‘and we give them big pay. Instead of a
+few leaves of tobacco, which they would burn the first day, I give them
+missionaries, and make school and mission which will be of great value to
+you, to your children, grand-children, and on through all the generations
+of coming years. But if you are not willing to carry lumber and help us,
+you can wait a year till I come again and we will have another palaver.’</p>
+
+<p>“They shouted unanimously, ‘No! no! we want school and mission now, and
+we will do all that you have said and
+written,’<!--805.png--><span class="pagenum">796</span>
+So the kings and chiefs,
+by their <i>mark</i>, signed the articles of agreement.</p>
+
+<p>“Their names were all hard, yet much easier to get on with than the men
+they represented. Only one of the long list of kings and chiefs came up
+to his contract, and he very kindly supplemented his labor by that of his
+wives. The mission house was built, and in 1889 contained twenty-five
+native worshipers.” <span class="smcap">Wm. Taylor</span>.</p>
+
+<h3>
+A DESPERATE SITUATION.
+</h3>
+
+<p>Henry Drummond, while pushing his way from Lake Nyassa toward Tanganyika,
+thus writes: “Buffalo fever still on me. Sallied forth early with Moolu,
+a large herd being reported at hand. We struck the trail after a few
+miles, but the buffaloes had moved away, passing up a deep valley to the
+north. I followed for a time, till the heat became too oppressive. Moolu
+with one other native, kept up the pursuit.</p>
+
+<p>“They returned in a few hours announcing that they had dropped two bulls,
+but not being mortally wounded they had escaped. Late in the afternoon,
+two more of my men came rushing in, saying, that one of the wounded
+buffaloes had attacked their party and wounded two of them severely. They
+wanted assistance to bring them home.</p>
+
+<p>“It seems that five of the men, on hearing Moolu’s report about the
+wounded buffaloes, and being tempted by the thought of fresh meat, had
+gone off without permission to try to secure the game. It was a foolhardy
+trick, as they had only spears with them, and a wounded buffalo bull is
+the most dangerous animal in Africa. It charges blindly at anything,
+and even after receiving its mortal wound has been known to kill its
+assailant.</p>
+
+<p>“The would-be hunters soon overtook one of the creatures, a huge bull,
+lying in a hollow, and apparently wounded unto death. They walked
+unsuspectingly up to it, and when quite close the brute suddenly roused
+itself and dashed headlong toward them. They ran for their lives, but
+were quickly overtaken, and one of them was trampled in a twinkling
+beneath the feet of the enraged brute. A second man was caught up a few
+paces further on and was literally impaled on the animal’s horns.</p>
+
+<p><!--806.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_797" id="Page_797">797</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_797.jpg" width="600" height="364"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A DESPERATE SITUATION.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!--807.png--><span class="pagenum">798</span></p>
+
+<p>“The first man was able to hobble into camp, but the second had to be
+carried in, more dead than alive. He had two frightful wounds, one
+through the shoulder, the other beneath the ribs. I dressed them, and
+set two natives to watch him through the night, lest he should bleed to
+death. When I came in, on my last visit before retiring, I found the
+nurses busy blowing on the wound. Their conception of pain was that it is
+due to evil spirits, and they were exorcising them by blowing. As they
+were doing no harm, I permitted them to indulge in their work through the
+night. The patient had a hard siege of it, but finally got well. He did
+not readily forget his adventure with the buffalo bull.”</p>
+
+<h3>
+STANLEY AND EMIN.
+</h3>
+
+<p>The London <i>Spectator</i> brings Henry M. Stanley and Emin Pasha into
+strong contrast in its discussion of the celebrated rescue. It chooses
+to regard the rescue as of greater psychological than of historic or
+scientific interest to the world, and says. “The revelation it affords
+is the radical difference in character between the two great African
+adventurers. For years past, Emin Pasha has seemed to be the greater
+of the two, a man who actually ruled, and in a degree civilized, great
+African provinces, who had by his character alone maintained his
+ascendency over a body of successful Mohammedan troops, and who had
+earned, if not the love, at least the respect and regard, of millions
+of black subjects. It now appears that some part of all this success
+must have been accidental. The trusted troops revolted on their first
+great opportunity&mdash;as, we must in justice remember, did also our own
+Sepoys&mdash;the obedient blacks proved equally obedient to the new Arab
+authority; and Emin himself stood revealed as a thoughtful man of
+science, patient and unfearing, but with little either of the energy or
+the decision which make the true man of action. It may be that in his
+long sojourn at Wadelai, surrounded by Egyptians and blacks, possibly
+taking native wives, for we hear of a young daughter named Ferida, and
+conforming to the ritual of an Asiatic faith, Emin may have become
+Africanized; but no change of conditions could deprive him of the power
+of recognizing men, had he originally
+possessed<!--809.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_800" id="Page_800">800</a></span>
+it. That he erred in
+his judgment of his agents is clear, for they mutinied against and
+imprisoned him; his hope that they would follow him to the coast, and
+thence to Egypt, turned out as baseless as the hope of many an old Sepoy
+officer that his ‘children’ at least would never mutiny; and to the last,
+one native officer, if Stanley’s account may be trusted, deluded the
+experienced Viceroy like a child.</p>
+
+<p>“One suspects, though perhaps the suspicion may be unfair, that he owed
+much of his apparent success to his profession of Mohammedanism&mdash;which
+up to the very last induced his followers to draw a distinction between
+the Pasha, who was only led away, and Jephson and Casati, who are called
+wicked Christians, and suspected of designs against their own Egyptian
+soldiers&mdash;and of his reputation in Europe to his feeling for science
+and civilization, a cause which also produced the much too favorable
+estimate of the Emperor of Brazil. On the other hand, the more the true
+man of action is tried, the stronger he appears. Perhaps no man that ever
+lived had his energy and endurance more taxed than Henry M. Stanley,
+who for years on end has suffered all that any great African explorer
+has suffered, with the addition of heavy responsibility to and for
+others, and who through it all has steadily grown greater in himself as
+well as in the world’s eyes. Statesmen would now trust the lad from the
+Welsh workhouse with African kingdoms to govern, and the new sovereign
+companies, who claim such immense districts, will compete with each
+other for his aid. He has the qualities which make rulers, and it is
+in the end on these, and not on amiability and feeling for science, or
+even a perplexed devotion to doubtful duty, that statesmen must rely. We
+shall do nothing in Africa by passing and repassing through its endless
+forests. We must govern, organize, and above all train its people, before
+anything is accomplished; and for that work we need the service of men
+who, like Stanley, know that the one cure for savagery is discipline, and
+can enforce it to the end.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_799.jpg" width="600" height="317"
+  alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">DINING ON THE BANKS OF THE UPPER SHIRE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<div class="trnote-bottom"><a id="Changes"></a>
+
+<div class="c3">
+TRANSCRIBER’S AMENDMENTS
+</div>
+
+<p>Transcriber’s Note:</p>
+
+<p>Blank pages have been deleted.</p>
+
+<p>Some illustrations have been moved. The order of entries in the list of
+illustrations has been corrected.</p>
+
+<p>The publisher’s inadvertent omissions of important punctuation have been
+corrected.</p>
+
+<p>The following list indicates any additional changes made. The page number
+represents that of the original publication and applies in this etext
+except for footnotes and illustrations since they may have been moved.</p>
+
+<p>Key: {&lt;from&gt;}[&lt;to&gt;]:</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">Page</td>
+  <td align="left">Change</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">11</td>
+  <td align="left">rum in Africa; {palavaring}[palavering]; Emin Pasha at</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">14</td>
+  <td align="left">FORDING THE {CHUCHIBI}[CUCHIBI] 364</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">14</td>
+  <td align="left">BINKA CATTLE HERD {715}[515]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">25</td>
+  <td align="left">which the sun of civilization is, sooner {of}[or] later,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">25</td>
+  <td align="left">Europe has a need for African {acquition}[acquisition] and</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">26</td>
+  <td align="left">which throw Europe in the {foregrond}[foreground].</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">27</td>
+  <td align="left">scientific and {philanthrophic}[philanthropic] enterprise</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">29</td>
+  <td align="left">Great {Britian}[Britain] had possessed the Niger delta;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">29</td>
+  <td align="left">Ogowai, Muni, {Camaroom}[Camaroon], Oil, Niger,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">38</td>
+  <td align="left">The time consumed had been about five {mouths}[months]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">52</td>
+  <td align="left">rubber trees, tamarinds, {boabab}[baobab], bombax,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">52</td>
+  <td align="left">is a nabob after {}[the ]modern pattern</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">53</td>
+  <td align="left">the sad expanse of {grossy}[grassy] plain,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">56</td>
+  <td align="left">was through the land of {}[the ]Nkuku, a trading people.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">68</td>
+  <td align="left">terrible fighters who {harrassed}[harassed] Stanley</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">69</td>
+  <td align="left">Their bodies are cross-marked and {tatooed}[tattooed].</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">74</td>
+  <td align="left">They were averse to a journey up the{ the}[] Aruwimi,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">74</td>
+  <td align="left">described by {Scheinfurth}[Schweinfurth],</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">78</td>
+  <td align="left">NIAM-NIAM {MINSTRAL}[MINSTREL].</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">81</td>
+  <td align="left">to show {consisent}[consistent] affection</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">81</td>
+  <td align="left">which is the{ the}[] original of every native tongue</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">81</td>
+  <td align="left">They always consult {augeries}[auguries] before going to war.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">83</td>
+  <td align="left">and the {maurauders}[marauders] had retreated</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">83</td>
+  <td align="left">evidence that the {maurauders}[marauders] had managed</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">94</td>
+  <td align="left">The {Mayuemas}[Manyuemas] are a fierce race;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">94</td>
+  <td align="left">This {gruesom}[gruesome] anecdote</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">99</td>
+  <td align="left">imprisonment which {Stanly}[Stanley] had inflicted.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">100</td>
+  <td align="left">The natives were {peacable}[peaceable] and ready to trade,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">102</td>
+  <td align="left">and stopped off {}[at ]the town of that name, which</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">106</td>
+  <td align="left">France, Great {Britian}[Britain],</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">107</td>
+  <td align="left">Portugal on the {Alantic}[Atlantic] coast,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">107</td>
+  <td align="left">there are at present but few {ligitimate}[legitimate] traders</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">108</td>
+  <td align="left">{Eurepean}[European] powers had been permitted to {sieze}[seize]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">108</td>
+  <td align="left">powers had been permitted to {sieze}[seize] all the coasts</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">108</td>
+  <td align="left">geology, zoology, and {resourses}[resources], and many</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">108</td>
+  <td align="left">formed under French auspices in { in}[] February 1887,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">111</td>
+  <td align="left">French, English, Portuguese, and {Belgium}[Belgian] capitalists</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">116</td>
+  <td align="left">into public law, {while}[which] in its turn will remove many</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">120</td>
+  <td align="left">and religious tolerations are expressly {guarteed}[guaranteed]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">123</td>
+  <td align="left">taxes to be {caclulated}[calculated] on the expenses</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">123</td>
+  <td align="left">with any duties {fur}[for] harborage stoppages</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">125</td>
+  <td align="left">{It}[If] the Consular agent considers</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">126</td>
+  <td align="left">in accordance with the requirements {ments }[]of international</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">128</td>
+  <td align="left">service of such {estabments}[establishments], shall be treated</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">130</td>
+  <td align="left">expenses of construction, {maintainance}[maintenance] and</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">130</td>
+  <td align="left">freedom of navigation {anunciated}[annunciated] in Articles</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">154</td>
+  <td align="left">was reached and a plantain patch {bursts}[burst] into view</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">155</td>
+  <td align="left">chiefs and Bonny were {callen}[called] to a council.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">165</td>
+  <td align="left">the {southermost}[southernmost] station in Emin’s boundaries.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">168</td>
+  <td align="left">the entire {equatoral}[equatorial] section of its European</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">176</td>
+  <td align="left">arrival of Lieut. {Sairs}[Stairs], Selim,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">178</td>
+  <td align="left">objective being Zanzibar, on the {west}[east] coast of Africa.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">187</td>
+  <td align="left">The alphabet, if it was constructed in {Phenicia}[Phœnicia]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">188</td>
+  <td align="left">the Hebrew {ceremonical}[ceremonial] worship,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">188</td>
+  <td align="left">saved them from {absorbtion}[absorption] by the hardy tribes</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">206</td>
+  <td align="left">his stone {sarcopagus}[sarcophagus] and its wooden cover,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">207</td>
+  <td align="left">red granite {sarcophugus}[sarcophagus] is there,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">209</td>
+  <td align="left">towering above the palm {treees}[trees].</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">209</td>
+  <td align="left">now in the Place de {}[la ]Concorde, Paris.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">213</td>
+  <td align="left">(1200 B.C. {}[to ]1133 B.C.)</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">248</td>
+  <td align="left">But how {}[to ]make it?</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">249</td>
+  <td align="left">He was left with a {compliment}[complement] of Baker’s small</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">257</td>
+  <td align="left">if on {}[the ]Nile the first mariner tried his bark on water</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">267</td>
+  <td align="left">resists the influences of {absorbtion}[absorption], evaporation</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">267</td>
+  <td align="left">unhealthy spot can hardly {he}[be] imagined.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">271</td>
+  <td align="left">{menacled}[manacled] to their late enemies, are soon floating</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">275</td>
+  <td align="left">is a small lake&mdash;Lake No.&lt;Numeral omitted by publisher.&gt;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">286</td>
+  <td align="left">and each house is fortified by a {stokade}[stockade].</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">289</td>
+  <td align="left">The beast does not give up {pursu}[pursuit]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">289</td>
+  <td align="left">to curse their goats or {whither}[wither] their flocks.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">290</td>
+  <td align="left">threatens to pour {lightening}[lightning], storm and rain</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">292</td>
+  <td align="left">but a swarm of {babboons}[baboons] spy him</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">292</td>
+  <td align="left">One of the {babboons}[baboons] was shot.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">308</td>
+  <td align="left">Before reaching the {northermost}[northernmost] point of the lake</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">310</td>
+  <td align="left">language of the Uganda. “Mena&lt;The word Mena is obscured.&gt;” means</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">318</td>
+  <td align="left">the Ten Commandments for daily {persual}[perusal]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">325</td>
+  <td align="left">contributes more water {then}[than] flows out of the lake</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">335</td>
+  <td align="left">on the Chobe, or {Cuaudo}[Cuando] River,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">338</td>
+  <td align="left">are universally {acknowleged}[acknowledged].</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">356</td>
+  <td align="left">flinging them into the {the }[]river above the rapids.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">359</td>
+  <td align="left">beneath a giant baobab tree {reposes}[repose]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">367</td>
+  <td align="left">of Ujiji, the {rendevouz}[rendezvous] of all expeditions,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">377</td>
+  <td align="left">they practised {canibalism}[cannibalism], but could</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">372</td>
+  <td align="left">&lt;Caption has added words: TOP, LEFT, RIGHT, BOTTOM.&gt;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">401</td>
+  <td align="left">Uledi, the {coxwain}[coxswain] of the “Lady Alice,”</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">403</td>
+  <td align="left">By {Feburary}[February] 8, Rubanga,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">408</td>
+  <td align="left">natives, who {has}[had] picked him up</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">410</td>
+  <td align="left">Uledi swam to him, {siezed}[seized] him,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">412</td>
+  <td align="left">Poor Safeni, {coxwain}[coxswain] of the “Lady Alice,”</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">414</td>
+  <td align="left">Uledi the {coxwain}[coxswain], manned a lighter</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">416</td>
+  <td align="left">and at length {tyranical}[tyrannical].</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">417</td>
+  <td align="left">where they are sorted, {seived}[sieved], and closely examined</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">431</td>
+  <td align="left">one of the {principle}[principal] scenes</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">436</td>
+  <td align="left">He trumpeted, staggered {foward}[forward], tripped</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">436</td>
+  <td align="left">and there receiving {other}[another] two shots,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">451</td>
+  <td align="left">and the {Ethiopions}[Ethiopians] or Abyssinians</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">453</td>
+  <td align="left">Bari of {Goudokoro}[Gondokoro] and the Waganda</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">466</td>
+  <td align="left">palm-nut, rubber, {gum-opal}[gum-copal], orchilla,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">466</td>
+  <td align="left">crossing the {Epuator}[Equator] twice.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">467</td>
+  <td align="left">It is {densly}[densely] peopled and some of the</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">468</td>
+  <td align="left">In many places it {constitues}[constitutes] the entire</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">468</td>
+  <td align="left">is the {india}[India] rubber plant.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">473</td>
+  <td align="left">areas of the {maufacturing}[manufacturing] world.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">475</td>
+  <td align="left">classify them as an {indispensible}[indispensable] resource,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">478</td>
+  <td align="left">and {supplimenting}[supplementing] them with camels,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">480</td>
+  <td align="left">whose older right has been forfeited by {non-user}[non-use].</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">483</td>
+  <td align="left">strong {servicable}[serviceable] cotton cloth.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">485</td>
+  <td align="left">frequently sank to 64&deg; {degrees }[]at night</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">500</td>
+  <td align="left">set eyes on Lake {Baugweola}[Bangweola].</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">500</td>
+  <td align="left">weaving their {cotten}[cotton] or knitting</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">501</td>
+  <td align="left">run clear even when {swoolen}[swollen].</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">503</td>
+  <td align="left">from Bangweola to {Casembe}[Cassembe] gave him</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">508</td>
+  <td align="left">but often gets {disembowled}[disemboweled] in the attempt.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">511</td>
+  <td align="left">The {Manyuama}[Manyuema] on the left bank of the Lualaba,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">525</td>
+  <td align="left">the enterprising {merchantile}[mercantile] factor</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">525</td>
+  <td align="left">to instil {}[in ]the dull mindless tribes the sacred germs</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">527</td>
+  <td align="left">to the {wierd}[weird] adventures and sad fates of the school of</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">527</td>
+  <td align="left">fair and {pernament}[permanent] participants,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">528</td>
+  <td align="left">{throughont}[throughout] the same extent, and Hamburg</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">530</td>
+  <td align="left">now from the Nile, with its impenetrable {suds}[sudds],</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">531</td>
+  <td align="left">{Moveover}[Moreover], it was one to which all could</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">534</td>
+  <td align="left">the {the }[]graceful zebra occupied the foreground</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">536</td>
+  <td align="left">surrounded by a comfortable {dwellings}[dwelling],</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">538</td>
+  <td align="left">dreams of glory, wealth and {humantarian}[humanitarian] good.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">539</td>
+  <td align="left">liver shows a deadly {abcess}[abscess]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">539</td>
+  <td align="left">Then why did it not {effect}[affect] all alike?</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">543</td>
+  <td align="left">sending them to a {sanatarium}[sanitarium] in the pine-woods</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">544</td>
+  <td align="left">Yet there must be {engagment}[engagement] of body and mind,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">547</td>
+  <td align="left">such an article becomes an {indispensible}[indispensable] luxury</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">554</td>
+  <td align="left">propagandist of a {a }[]faith, warrior for the sake</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">554</td>
+  <td align="left">he had adaptation {superier}[superior] to that</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">555</td>
+  <td align="left">commercial and {Christain}[Christian] England afterwards</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">562</td>
+  <td align="left">the {Portugese}[Portuguese] have built a short railroad</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">565</td>
+  <td align="left">and the church itself was well {equiped}[equipped]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">565</td>
+  <td align="left">Its {fomula}[formula] was calculated to impress</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">566</td>
+  <td align="left">both church and state {contenanced}[countenanced] the crime</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">566</td>
+  <td align="left">might have been easily {forseen}[foreseen].</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">566</td>
+  <td align="left">entire western and {on}[on a] great part of</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">568</td>
+  <td align="left">the return of his dead {boby}[body] to Zanzibar,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">571</td>
+  <td align="left">felt the power of that {consecreted}[consecrated] life,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">578</td>
+  <td align="left">A band is forming in {Ayershire}[Ayrshire], Scotland,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">579</td>
+  <td align="left">{Mohammedianism}[Mohammedanism] and paganism of the negroes</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">584</td>
+  <td align="left">singing hymns of {deliverence}[deliverance].</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">593</td>
+  <td align="left">directors of the {the }[]society were greatly perplexed,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">595</td>
+  <td align="left">COOMASSIE THE {CAPITOL}[CAPITAL] OF ASHANTI.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">607</td>
+  <td align="left">{Ferdando}[Fernando] Po is one of the most important islands</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">608</td>
+  <td align="left">On the mainland opposite {Fenando}[Fernando] Po,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">615</td>
+  <td align="left">Mr. {Edgerley}[Edgerly] had told his tale,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">631</td>
+  <td align="left">The natives themselves {becomes}[become] in many cases messengers</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">633</td>
+  <td align="left">They were {Revolutinary}[Revolutionary] patriots</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">635</td>
+  <td align="left">he entered the {Brazillian}[Brazilian] country,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">650</td>
+  <td align="left">Robert {Shield}[Shields], a young missionary</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">655</td>
+  <td align="left">writes that {}[the ]station has been nearly self-sustaining</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">661</td>
+  <td align="left">leaving one {Kabindas}[Kabinda] with Dr. Summers</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">663</td>
+  <td align="left">proceed with their big load to {Nhanguepeppo}[Nhanguepepo].</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">663</td>
+  <td align="left">many of whom {}[were ]from a distance of five</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">674</td>
+  <td align="left">years of experience in {Massachusettes}[Massachusetts],</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">676</td>
+  <td align="left">built for their {accomodation}[accommodation].</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">677</td>
+  <td align="left">much more rapidly and {acurately}[accurately]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">678</td>
+  <td align="left">almost as {dextrously}[dexterously] as I used to see</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">678</td>
+  <td align="left">Some of them were greatly {interterested}[interested],</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">685</td>
+  <td align="left">fitting up for school and chapel purposes {}[of ]the unfinished</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">686</td>
+  <td align="left">bears from the {vernanda}[veranda] facing the street,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">686</td>
+  <td align="left">the brethren {perferring}[preferring] to do it themselves</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">692</td>
+  <td align="left">We bought the {sight}[site] of the old capital,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">715</td>
+  <td align="left">{MOFFIT’S}[MOFFAT’S] COURAGE.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">722</td>
+  <td align="left">The {survivors}[survivor], Mr. Mackay, after being held</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">725</td>
+  <td align="left">such of his own subjects {}[who ]opposed the missionaries</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">735</td>
+  <td align="left">we reached a little {villiage}[village] in the forest</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">741</td>
+  <td align="left">(Capt. {Coquilhart}[Coquilhat] says about twelve years old.)</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">741</td>
+  <td align="left">crocodile seize his mother and drag her out {}[of ]the canoe.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">750</td>
+  <td align="left">new field for the {talant}[talent] and zeal of women.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">762</td>
+  <td align="left">pantomimic charges upon an {imaginery}[imaginary] enemy,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">764</td>
+  <td align="left">The {exhiliarating}[exhilarating] and ostentatious ceremony</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">769</td>
+  <td align="left">(thirty to fifty cents) for one {foul}[fowl].</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">784</td>
+  <td align="left">But Great {Britian}[Britain] is not alone</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">788</td>
+  <td align="left">Our delegation was {hostipably}[hospitably] entertained</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">789</td>
+  <td align="left">narrow lanes of {dracoena}[drac&aelig;na] hedges</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">790</td>
+  <td align="left">many {wonderous}[wondrous] things from Europe,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">798</td>
+  <td align="left">greater {psycological}[psychological] than of historic</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td align="right">800</td>
+  <td align="left">devotion to doubtful duty, that statesmen {muss}[must] rely.</td>
+</tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p><a href="#Start">Back to start of ebook.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Stanley in Africa, by James P. Boyd
+
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