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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of William Clayton's Journal, by William Clayton

-

-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with

-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or

-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included

-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org

-

-

-Title: William Clayton's Journal

-       A Daily Record of the Journey of the Original Company of

-       "Mormon" Pioneers from Nauvoo, Illinois, to the Valley of

-       the Great Salt Lake

-

-Author: William Clayton

-

-Editor: Lawrence Clayton

-

-Release Date: March 2, 2014 [EBook #45051]

-

-Language: English

-

-Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1

-

-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL ***

-

-

-

-

-Produced by the Mormon Texts Project. See

-http://mormontextsproject.org/ for a complete list of

-Mormon texts available on Project Gutenberg, to help

-proofread similar books, or to report typos.

-

-

-

-

-

-

-William Clayton's Journal

-

-A Daily Record of the Journey of the Original Company of "Mormon"

-Pioneers from Nauvoo, Illinois, to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake

-

-

-Copyright 1921 by Lawrence Clayton, trustee for the Clayton Family

-Association.

-

-

-Electronic edition produced by the Mormon Texts Project. To report

-typos or formatting errors, you can email mormontextsproject@gmail.com.

-

-Volunteers who helped with this book: Eric Heaps, Meridith Crowder, Ben

-Crowder, Tod Robbins, David Van Leeuwen, Lili DeForest, Jude Ogzewalla,

-Byron Clark.

-

-Version 1.0

-

-

-

-Foreword

-

-William Clayton was one of the remarkable characters of early Utah

-history. Born in the county of Lancashire, England, July 17, 1814,

-he was educated in one of the schools of his native town, and grew

-to manhood with a love for books and nature. An early convert of

-the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, he conducted one

-of the first companies from England to Nauvoo, and there became one

-of the trusted secretaries of the Prophet Joseph Smith. With the

-exodus from Nauvoo, he was Clerk of the Camp of Israel, and when the

-Mormon pioneers left Winter Quarters in April, 1847, he was appointed

-by Brigham Young one of the historians of that noted company. His

-journal of that memorable expedition over the plains is one of the

-most valuable diaries we have of that early period of western history.

-He kept careful account of the distances traveled each day, and his

-writings are full of descriptions of the country over which they

-traveled. He has noted the topography, the fauna and flora of the

-trail; and his descriptions of the activities of the company indicate

-a well trained intellect in social study. His language is simple and

-direct, and his care in keeping each day's distance and important facts

-of the journey show order and method.

-

-His hymn, "Come, come, ye Saints" takes its place as one of the most

-beautiful hymns of western history, for it is full of joyfulness,

-and expresses an optimism and faith in God that will always be an

-inspiration to the one who sings it. It indicates that William Clayton

-had much of the artistic in him, although we do know that he took a

-virile part in the activities of life.

-

-His journal should be read by all people who are interested in the

-west's development. It is certainly one of the distinct contributions

-of that early day, and shows that a man of strength of character wrote

-it. It will inspire many people to a greater love and regard for the

-work of the pioneers of Utah.

-

- Levi Edgar Young

- Salt Lake City, Utah

- April 1921

-

-

-

-William Clayton

-

-Born in England, 1814; died in Utah, 1879

-

-The Claytons of England originally came from France. During the time

-when William the Conqueror and King Harold were quarreling, a call came

-from the former for volunteers among his chieftains to go to war. A man

-named Robert was among those who responded. Robert was skilled in arms.

-

-After the Battle of Hastings in 1066, in which Robert rendered heroic

-service, William the Conqueror conferred upon him the English Manor of

-Clayton as a mark of merit. Robert was afterwards known as Robert de

-Clayton and Lord of the Manor of Clayton. From Lord Robert Clayton came

-all the Claytons of England and America and by genealogical research,

-the line has been brought down to the subject of this sketch.

-

-William Clayton was born July 17, 1814, in the village of Charock

-Moss, Township of Penwortham, County Palatine of Lancaster, England.

-He was the son of Thomas and Ann Critchley Clayton, who were born in

-Lancashire, England. William was the eldest of fourteen children. Three

-of these children died in infancy and were buried in England. Through

-the influence of the eldest son, the father, mother and surviving

-children joined the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and

-came to America. The mother died in Nauvoo, Illinois, July 15, 1848,

-and the father in St. Louis, Missouri, June 16, 1849. A brother James

-died in Winter Quarters, November 28, 1847. The remainder of his

-brothers and sisters survived the persecutions of mobs and the early

-privations of the Church and came to the valley of the Great Salt Lake

-with the pioneers of Utah.

-

-William Clayton first heard the Gospel preached in England by Heber

-C. Kimball and Orson Hyde. With his wife, Ruth Moon Clayton, whom he

-married in England, October 9, 1836, he listened to the teachings of

-these missionaries, but he was not easy to convert. His wife received

-the Gospel first, and many evenings had to be spent before William

-Clayton became a believer in "Mormonism." He was ordained a Priest

-December 25, 1837, and a High Priest, April 1, 1838, at which time he

-was appointed with Willard Richards, Counselor to Joseph Fielding who

-presided over the Church in Europe.

-

-September 8, 1840, he left England in the packet ship _North America_,

-arriving in New York, October 11, 1840, and in Nauvoo, November 24,

-1840. In this city, he became a trusted friend of the founders of

-the Church, so much so that on February 10, 1842, he was appointed

-secretary to Joseph Smith the Prophet. October 7, 1842, he became

-Temple Recorder and Recorder of Revelations. In 1842, he became

-Treasurer of the City of Nauvoo. These appointments are indicative of

-the zeal with which William Clayton served the Church throughout his

-life.

-

-What of the personal characteristics of our subject? As will appear

-from his portrait on the frontispiece, William Clayton did not tend

-to frivolity or mirth but rather to seriousness and earnestness. Yet

-he was witty and had a keen sense of humor. In the home he was not

-demonstrative; although he had great love for his home and family and

-provided well for their comfort. He was methodical, always sitting in

-his own arm chair, having a certain place at the table and otherwise

-showing his love for order, which he believed the first law of heaven.

-His person was clean and tidy; his hands small and dimpled. He wore

-very little jewelry but what little he had was the best money could

-buy. He would not carry a watch that was not accurate, and his clothing

-was made from the best material. His children remember him best in

-black velvet coat and grey trousers and, in cold weather, a broad-cloth

-cloak in place of overcoat.

-

-The man-timber in William Clayton came from sturdy trees. His character

-was above all littleness. He believed that what was good for him was

-good for all men, and that the measurement of our lives was based upon

-our daily conduct towards each other. To him that was God's standard.

-He believed in perfect equity in the adjustment of the affairs of

-life. Had he loved money, he could probably have had it because of his

-education and executive ability. But he cared little for material gain,

-centering his zeal in the pursuit of honor and right.

-

-William Clayton was honest and nothing to him could justify an untruth.

-He deplored waste or extravagance, yet he never withheld from a

-neighbor in distress, or from the widow or orphan. Many are those who

-knew his generosity. When his harvest was gathered, bushels of grain

-and fruit found place among those of scanty store. And many pairs of

-shoes and much warm clothing were given to comfort the needy. Nor was

-the homeless forgotten, but the orphan was given a home and joy by his

-own fireside.

-

-His religion was deeply rooted and nurtured by association with and

-testimony of an eye witness to the living God. His love for Joseph

-Smith was love seldom shown in man for man. Few men possessed stronger

-faith and courage. These qualities alone could inspire a man under

-heart-rending circumstances, to write such hymns of faith and comfort

-as "Come, come, ye Saints," and "The Resurrection Day."

-

-The record of William Clayton in Utah kept pace with that of previous

-years. His home was open always to his friends who loved to gather

-there for social hours. Civic welfare always interested him. He was a

-musician and played in the pioneer orchestra and that of the Salt Lake

-Theatre. He was a lover of community features and took part in dramatic

-functions.

-

-He was treasurer of Zion's Cooperative Mercantile Institution, Recorder

-of Marks and Brands, Receiver of Weights and Measures, and was

-Territorial Auditor. His love for education prompted many sacrifices

-and he tried hard to give his children the essentials of good schooling.

-

-He had a strong will, although a tender conscience. Cowardice had no

-place in him. Truly he could say, "My heart is fixed. I know in whom I

-trust." Joseph Smith believed that they should meet and associate in

-the Celestial Kingdom of God as they had here.

-

-William Clayton died December 4, 1879, in Salt Lake City. Services were

-held in the Seventeenth Ward Chapel at which his own funeral hymn was

-sung. He left a large posterity.

-

- Victoria C. McCune

- Salt Lake City, Utah, June, 1921

-

-

-

-Editor's Note

-

-The descendants of William Clayton have in recent years formed

-themselves into an organization known as the Clayton Family

-Association. This book is offered to the public by the Association

-with the thought that a document of such faithful description and fine

-spirit would be welcomed by all people who might be interested either

-in the Pioneer Period of Western History or more particularly in the

-exodus of the Mormon people from Missouri to the valley of the Great

-Salt Lake. It is difficult to understand why the _Journal_ was not

-published years ago and it seems to require somewhat of an apology

-that this interesting record should have remained so long unknown and

-be now brought out with considerable haste. In the effort to have it

-ready for distribution to the members of the Clayton Family Association

-on the anniversary of the birth of their forefather on July 17th,

-there has been a sacrifice of care and deliberation in the preparation

-of this first edition which is hoped the reader will overlook upon

-consideration of the facts. This lack of time and care will show itself

-more in the text than in any other particular. Much of the proof

-reading was done by the undersigned on board train between Salt Lake

-and California. To say the least, such surroundings are not conducive

-to the most finished work. It is hoped that this circumstance will also

-make the reader more tolerant when encountering mistakes in the text,

-obviously the result of hasty proof reading. At a later date a second

-edition will do better justice to the author of the _Journal_ and will

-show more consideration for the fine taste of the reader.

-

- Lawrence Clayton

- Salt Lake City, Utah, June, 1921

-

-

-

-Table of Contents

-

-February 1846

-

-March 1846

-

-April 1846

-

-May 1846

-

-June 1846

-

-July 1846

-

-August 1846

-

-September 1846

-

-November 1846

-

-January 1847

-

-February 1847

-

-April 1847

-

-May 1847

-

-June 1847

-

-July 1847

-

-August 1847

-

-September 1847

-

-October 1847

-

-

-

-February 1846

-

-_Nauvoo, Illinois_

-

-Sunday, February 8

-

-At the office all day packing public goods, evening at Farr's writing

-out a letter of instruction to trustees.

-

-Monday, February 9

-

-At the office packing. At 3:30 the temple was seen on fire. Women

-carrying water.

-

-Tuesday, February 10

-

-At the temple packing, also Wednesday 11th.

-

-Thursday, February 12

-

-At home preparing to move.

-

-Friday, February 13

-

-Sent four loads of goods over the river. Loading and packing.

-

-Saturday, February 14

-

-Packing and seeking letters.

-

-Sunday, February 15

-

-Riding around to get teams and things together. Sent two teams over the

-river.

-

-Monday, February 16

-

-Still loading teams, also Tuesday 17th.

-

-Wednesday, February 18

-

-Got about ready to go over the river. Evening President Brigham Young,

-Heber C. Kimball, J. M. Grant and some of the pioneers came to hurry

-us over. N. K. Whitney also came in. We conversed together some. They

-state the brethren have made a perfect waste of food and property in

-the camp.

-

-Thursday, February 19

-

-This morning the ground is covered with snow. It is so windy they

-cannot cross the river. Continued to snow all day. Evening went to

-Elder Babbit's to supper with Elder Kimball. President Young was there,

-Backenstos, J. M. Grant and some others.

-

-Friday, February 20

-

-The weather is very cold and windy. Impossible to cross the river.

-Spent the day running after things to get ready, fixing wagons and

-chopping fire wood.

-

-Friday, February 27

-

-We have spent the past week waiting for crossing over the [Mississippi]

-river. It has been hard frost and much snow. This morning I concluded

-to start over the river and began early to send my teams. About noon I

-crossed with my family and then rested the teams and soon after went

-on to the camp where we arrived a little before four o'clock. Bishop

-Whitney concluded to stay at the river until morning because some of

-his teams could not get over. When we got to the camp we were received

-with joy and formed in the company of the band. The weather is still

-very cold especially during the night. The distance from Nauvoo to this

-place is called seven and a half miles.

-

-Saturday, February 28

-

-A.M. arranging my tents, etc. At twelve was sent for to council and

-about two the band was requested to go and meet bishop Whitney and his

-teams. We went and met him five miles from the camp. We played some

-time and then returned to the camp. President Young, Heber C. Kimball,

-P. P. Pratt, Orson Pratt and others accompanied us. At night played

-with the band.

-

-

-

-March 1846

-

-Sunday, March 1

-

-A.M. preparing to march to the next encampment. At ten a lecture was

-given by Elder Kimball and about one the company proceeded to the next

-camp about four and a half miles, where we arrived in good season.

-

-Monday, March 2

-

-Started this morning for another camp about eight miles where we

-arrived about five p.m., the roads being somewhat hilly and muddy. The

-band played at night. During the day the artillery company broke into

-our ranks several times and broke a number of our wagon boxes. At night

-they complained of us at headquarters, but after hearing our story the

-matter stood about right.

-

-Tuesday, March 3

-

-Proceeded on our journey through Farmington about eight miles to a

-place where bishop Miller was encamped and arrived in good season. The

-band played at night.

-

-Wednesday, March 4

-

-This morning we concluded to stay a day and fix up some wagons which

-were broken. A number of the citizens from Farmington came to the camp

-and gave a very pressing invitation for the band to go to Farmington

-and play some. Accordingly about three o'clock, the band started and

-arrived at Farmington about 4:30 p.m. We played at the principal hotel

-and then went to the school house and played till nearly dark. The

-house was filled with men and women, the leading people of the place.

-We then returned to the hotel where they had provided us with a good

-supper. They also gave us $5 in money. John Kay sang a number of songs.

-At eight o'clock we returned and when we left they gave us three

-cheers. When we arrived at the camp we met thirty of the guard just

-starting out to meet us. The President felt uneasy at our staying so

-long and was sending the men to protect us.

-

-Thursday, March 5

-

-Proceeded on our journey. Crossed the Des Moines river at Bonaparte and

-afterwards had a very bad road up the bluff for several miles which

-detained us until late in the afternoon. We stopped awhile to feed the

-band teams inasmuch as they had none this morning. We then started and

-went to the next camping ground, making the day's journey about sixteen

-miles.

-

-Saturday, March 7

-

-Proceeded about eight miles to a camp ground near to a Dr. Elberts

-where the band camped. President Young was behind and when he arrived

-he went on about eight miles farther. The band went to work splitting

-rails for corn and made before dark, about 1:30. In the evening Dr.

-Elbert and some others came to hear the band play. Kay sang some songs

-which pleased them.

-

-Sunday, March 8

-

-Waited for orders from headquarters. Many of the citizens came to hear

-the band play and gave us a very pressing invitation to go to Keosaugua

-and give a concert. About noon word came that we should follow on to

-the camp. We immediately struck tents and started and we arrived at

-the main camp about five o'clock. Some of the citizens from Keosaugua

-followed us waiting for an answer whether we would give a concert as

-soon as we arrived at the camp. I asked the President whether the band

-should go to Keosaugua to give a concert. He advised us to go and I

-immediately sent out the appointment and then we pitched our tents

-forming a line on the road opposite to the President's company.

-

-Monday, March 9

-

-Spent the day chiefly preparing for the concert and attending on my

-family.

-

-Tuesday, March 10

-

-The weather still continues fine. Spent the morning preparing for

-the concert and about one o'clock p.m. started in company with the

-brass band for Keosaugua. I rode in Elder Kimball's wagon with

-William Kimball, J. Smithies and Wm. Pitt. The distance from the camp

-to Keosaugua is about ten miles, the camp being at a place called

-Richardson's point. We arrived at Keosaugua about three o'clock and

-being requested we went through the town and played some. One of the

-grocery keepers invited us to play him a tune which we did. He then

-invited us in and offered to treat us to anything he had. We each took

-a little and then the next grocery keeper sent an invitation for us

-to play him a tune. We did so and he also gave us anything he had. A

-beer keeper next sent word that he did not want us to slight him and

-we went and played him a tune and then took some of his cake and beer.

-We then marched up to the Des Moines hotel near the court-house where

-we had ordered supper and after eating we went to the courthouse to

-prepare for the concert. At seven o'clock the house was crowded and we

-commenced, playing and singing till about 9:30. The audience seemed

-highly pleased and gave loud applause. About the close one of the

-citizens got up and said it was the wish of many that we should repeat

-the concert the following evening and he took a vote of all who wished

-us to go again. The vote was unanimous. We made nearly $25.00 clear of

-all expenses. We started back for the camp soon after ten and arrived

-about one o'clock all well and pleased.

-

-Wednesday, March 11

-

-In the morning I reported to President Young our success and the

-request of the citizens of Keosaugua and he advised us to go again. We

-accordingly started about eleven o'clock. I again rode with William

-Kimball, Horace Whitney and James Smithies. When we arrived we were

-welcomed again with the same kind feelings as yesterday. Pitt had a

-severe chill all the way and when we got there it commenced raining

-and made it very unpleasant. The house was again filled but we only

-made $20.00 besides all expenses. We learned that there is a party of

-socialists there and they and the priests are much opposed to each

-other. We also learned that a man named McCully was in jail close by

-under sentence to be hung on the 4th of April for murdering a man and a

-child. I did not feel so well at the concert as on the night previous

-on several accounts. We started back between eleven and twelve and got

-to the camp about three o'clock.

-

-Thursday, March 12

-

-The band moved to better ground about one quarter of a mile farther.

-The heavy rains had made it very muddy and unpleasant, all our bedding

-and things being wet.

-

-Friday, March 13

-

-Went hunting.

-

-Saturday, March 14

-

-Wrote a letter to Diantha.

-

-Sunday, March 15

-

-In camp all day.

-

-Monday, March 16

-

-Some of the citizens of Keosaugua came again to request us to give

-another concert. We agreed to go tomorrow evening.

-

-Tuesday, March 17

-

-Started for Keosaugua with Pitt, Hutchinson, Kay, Smithies and Egan.

-I took my music box and china to try and sell them. We arrived in

-good season and soon learned that the priests had been hard at work

-preventing the sectarians from coming to the concert, saying that it

-was an infidel move consequently there were not many present. We had

-far the best concert which lasted till nine o'clock. We then went over

-to the hotel, took supper and played for a private party till about

-three o'clock. We only cleared from both, about $7.00 over expenses but

-were well treated.

-

-Wednesday, March 18

-

-It rained last night and this morning again and we almost concluded

-to go to Fairfield, but finally determined to return to camp. We

-visited with a Mr. Bridgman who treated us very kindly. Bought about

-eight bushels of beans and some articles for President Young and then

-returned to camp. It rained some again today. We got back about five

-o'clock. After dark Dr. Elbert came to see my china and said if I would

-take it over tomorrow he would buy it.

-

-Thursday, March 19

-

-Went to ask council whether I should go to sell my china. Saw Heber who

-advised me to go. A few of us started and soon met President Young who

-said we had better go back and go with the camp who were then starting

-on their way. We accordingly turned back our horses and struck tents in

-a hurry. At twelve o'clock we started on our journey. After traveling

-about six or seven miles we had to go up a very bad bluff which took

-us till five o'clock. President Young's company went ahead of us and

-camped three miles from the bluff. Some of our teams gave out and we

-only went about a mile from the bluff and camped in a little point of

-timber a little from the road. Our teams were very tired.

-

-Saturday, March 21

-

-We started early in the morning and soon came up with the main body of

-the camp. I rode ahead about three miles to hunt my cow. We did not

-have her last night being with the main camp. We traveled nine or ten

-miles and then rested our teams. We started again and traveled three

-miles farther where we found the President and Heber camped on the

-brink of a long bluff. We concluded to go to the other bank which we

-did and camped in a good place. In the evening the band went and played

-for the President and Heber and then went to a farmer's house at the

-owner's request about three quarters of a mile from camp to play for

-his family. He promised to give us some honey if we would play for

-him. We played about an hour and then left but neither saw nor heard

-anything of the honey. We learned afterwards, however, that Hutchinson

-had a pail under his cloak and got it full of honey after the rest had

-left the house and kept it to himself, very slyly.

-

-Sunday, March 22

-

-Started again and soon came to the Shariton bottoms which is a very low

-land for about four miles. The road was bad and it took us sometime to

-cross. While on the bottom Root and Davis came again. Root had asked

-permission of President Young to go back to his family some days ago

-but it seems things did not go to suit him and he followed his team

-again. It took sometime to go up the bluff. We had to let the teams

-down into the Shariton river by ropes and also helped them up again by

-the same means. Our company got over in good season but we concluded

-to camp after getting up the bluff as it would take till night for the

-whole to get up. I spent the day helping the teams till I was so sore

-and tired I could scarcely walk.

-

-Monday, March 23

-

-In council with Brigham, Heber, and others. We found that Miller's

-company had gone still farther about eight miles instead of waiting

-till we overtook them so that we could organize. I wrote a letter to

-them saying if they did not wait or return to organize, the camp would

-organize without and they be disfellowshiped. We concluded to stay at

-this place a few days to buy corn to last to Grand river but we found

-corn scarce and 26c a bushel, the farmers having advanced on account of

-a disposition to speculate.

-

-Tuesday, March 24 and Wednesday, March 25

-

-At the camp writing, etc. It rained considerably.

-

-Thursday, March 26

-

-Evening in council. Wrote a long letter to be sent to Emmet's company

-by John Butler and James W. Cummings. This morning wrote another

-letter to P. P. Pratt, Orson Pratt, George Miller telling them

-they must wait for us or come back to organize. The letters were sent

-by Smithies. He met them on the way and about noon P. P. Pratt,

-Orson Pratt, John Kay and G. Miller came into camp and at 1:00 p.m.

-the council met. The brethren plead that the charges in the letters

-were unjust. They had not striven to keep out of the way but had done

-all for the best. The whole camp accordingly was organized, A. P.

-Rockwood over 1st 50; Stephen Markham, 2nd 50; Young, 3rd 50; Howard

-E. Kimball, 4th 50; Charles C. Rich, 5th 50; Charles Crisman, 6th 50.

-Each fifty had also appointed a contracting commissary for the purpose

-of contracting for work and grain as follows: Henry Sherwood 1st 50;

-David H. Kimball 2nd; Wm. H. Edwards 3rd; Peter Haws 4th; Joseph

-Worthen 5th; Samuel Gully 6th. It was understood that I continue to

-preside over the band and in the absence of Brother Haws over the whole

-fifty. After this there was appointed for each fifty a distributing

-commissary to distribute feed in camp as follows: Charles Kennedy for

-1st 50; J. M. Grant 2nd 50; Nathan Tanner 3rd 50; Orson B. Adams

-4th 50; James Allred 5th 50; Isaac Allred 6th 50. The brethren then

-gave the following instructions for the whole camp with orders that

-same be observed hereafter, viz. No man to set fire to prairies. No man

-to shoot off a gun in camp without orders. No man to go hunting unless

-he is sent and all to keep guns, swords and pistols out of sight. There

-was then appointed a clerk for each fifty as follows: John D. Lee

-Young, 1st 50; John Pack 2nd 50; Lorenzo Snow 3rd 50; Geo. H. Hales 4th

-50; John Oakley 5th 50; A. Lathrop 6th 50. The council then adjourned

-to meet at Shariton Ford camp on Monday at 10 a.m. We then returned to

-our camp where we arrived just at dark.

-

-Saturday, March 28

-

-In camp making out forms for clerks of 50's and also copied letter to

-James Emmet.

-

-Sunday, March 29

-

-Making forms for clerks of 50's and felt quite unwell all day with bad

-cold.

-

-Monday, March 30

-

-Met with the council. The guard and pioneers were divided and

-distributed amongst the several companies of 50's. It was also agreed

-that company No. 4 should go on to the next camp tomorrow and the

-remainder of the day following. Jackson Redding sold one of Keller's

-horses for one yoke of oxen, leaving me as bad off for teams as before.

-

-Tuesday, March 31

-

-It was concluded we could not get ready to move until tomorrow.

-O. P. Rockwell arrived with the mail. I received a letter from

-Diantha and father. President Young received one from the trustees,

-one from Matlock and one from E. Pratt which I read in council. I was

-ordered to write an answer to the trustees' and Matlock's letter, but

-being late I left it till morning when I was quite unwell. I got two

-new teamsters, Levi Kendall and Swap.

-

-

-

-April 1846

-

-Wednesday, April 1

-

-President Young also sent me two yoke of oxen, wagon, and Brother

-Jones, the owner, to assist me. We divided the load out of the spare

-wagons putting a yoke of oxen to each and about 11:00 started on our

-journey. Mother was very sick, and could not bear to ride. She walked

-all the way. I felt very unwell myself, having much pain in my limbs.

-The roads were bad, but we arrived in camp about 2:00 and got on good

-ground. After getting our tents fixed, fires made, etc., I went to

-wrestling, jumping etc., to try to get well. I over-exerted myself

-without any symptoms of perspiration and was so sick after I had to go

-to bed.

-

-Thursday, April 2

-

-I was very sick all day and unable to write the letters or meet with

-the council. O. P. Rockwell started back to Nauvoo with letters.

-One of the Brother Hales arrived to say to his brother who drives team

-for Pitt that his family is very sick and wants him to go back but

-we cannot spare the team and he says it is no use for him to go back

-without it. At night I wrote again to Diantha and sent it by Brother

-Hale who returns tomorrow.

-

-Friday, April 3

-

-This morning it was decided to start early so as to get over the bad

-roads and also travel about fifteen miles. We had to send a wagon and

-team to fetch the eight bushels of corn which some of the band earned

-by playing last night. We started, however, about eight o'clock. The

-roads were very bad and when we had traveled about three miles it began

-to thunder and rain. The clouds gathered fast and it soon showed signs

-for heavy rain the whole day. We reached Bishop Whitney's camp about

-noon and rested our teams while the rest came up. We then started again

-in the heavy rain and bad roads and traveled about three miles to

-Bishop Miller's camp. We had a very bad bluff to rise and had to double

-teams to get up. On the top I met Heber camped. He selected a camping

-ground for us and advised us to go no farther. President Young has gone

-on six or seven miles. It was about 5:00 before all our teams got up

-and it rained heavily all the time. Mother walked all day again in the

-rain. I was very sick myself and unable to do anything. Yesterday the

-portion of the guard detailed to our company joined in with us, being

-Orvil M. Allen and eight men. They reported themselves destitute of

-everything and said they had lived a week on corn meal gruel, Stout and

-Hunter having made them serve as their body guard and used them very

-hard. I dealt out some of my own flour and bacon to them, determined

-to comfort them some if I could and not being willing to see anyone in

-our company suffer while I have anything left. It continued to rain all

-night very hard.

-

-Saturday, April 4

-

-This morning all our clothing, beds and bed clothing were drenched

-and it has continued to rain all day. I have been sick again all day

-especially towards night. I was so distressed with pain it seemed as

-though I could not live. I went to bed and put a bag of hot salt on my

-chest which seemed to give me some ease but I suffered much through

-the night, and it continued to rain until after midnight. We put an

-extra cover on our sleeping wagon, which kept out the rain. We have

-only slept in the wagon three nights but have slept under a tent on the

-wet ground. Haws' company are now formed with us, making our 50 nearly

-complete. A number of the company feel unwell on account of the rain

-and wet.

-

-Sunday, April 5

-

-This morning I feel a little better and the day is fine and pleasant.

-I have spent the day writing in this journal, having written from

-memory all since the date of March 9th. Some of the dates may not be

-correct but the matters recorded are true. It is now 1:00 p.m. There

-is a meeting at Elder Kimball's camp but I am sent here in this wagon

-to fetch up this record. My health is somewhat better for which I

-feel thankful. Elder Kimball says we had better not attempt to move

-tomorrow. We can get corn within ten miles from here and he will help

-us to means. We have now to lay in corn to last till we get to Grand

-River about fifty miles farther, there being no farms on the road. On

-Friday evening I appointed Charles Terry captain of my ten and Henry

-A. Terry clerk and my brother James to attend on my family agreeable

-with the orders of the President that I may be able to spend my time

-writing for the council and camp and attend councils. Elder Kimball

-instructed the captains of tens to call their companies together at

-4:00. Agreeable with this, the band assembled in front of my tent and

-administered the sacrament. Wm. F. Cahoon and Charles A. Terry

-officiated. I spoke about three quarters of an hour on various subjects

-touching on our journey and the policy we ought to use, etc. After I

-had done Elder Haws spoke on some subjects and the meeting adjourned.

-The captains then went over to Elder Kimball's camp about sending for

-corn. We concluded to send four teams for our 50, Captain Egan and Haws

-then went through the camp to see if they could obtain some money. Haws

-obtained $31.45 and Egan $9.00. I sent $14.00 by Egan for some. Wrote

-to Diantha.

-

-Monday, April 6

-

-It has rained again the last night and continued to rain all day very

-heavily. The camp is very disagreeable and muddy. I spent the day

-reading. About 5:00 the clouds began to break and it looks more likely

-for being fair. In the evening Elder Kimball came over and the band met

-opposite Hutchinson's wagon and played some. After that the quadrille

-band met in my tent and played on the violins. All the time we were

-playing the lightning occasionally broke forth from the northwest and

-at 8:00 we dispersed just as the storm approached. Before I got to my

-tent the wind arrived and soon blew a perfect gale with heavy rain,

-hail, lightning and thunder. It continued for an hour and then abated

-some. All the tents in our company except mine and Pack's were blown

-down. The rain beat through the wagon covers and drenched the families

-and effects. It was the most severe storm we have experienced and with

-such wind it seems impossible to preserve our little clothing and

-provisions from being spoiled. But in the midst of all, the camp seems

-cheerful and happy and there are but few sick.

-

-Tuesday, April 7

-

-This morning it is fair but cold and windy. The ground is frozen stiff

-and considerable ice. Many of the tents are still lying flat and

-everything around shows that the storm was very severe. A number of the

-band have no meat and some no flour nor in fact scarcely any provisions

-and several have had little, only what I have given them out of the

-stock I laid in for my family. I have this morning given the guard

-the bag of flour Miller left and a piece of pork and also a piece to

-Redding. The day continued fine but roads almost impassable. Evening

-the band played some.

-

-Wednesday, April 8

-

-This morning the ground was hard again. But the weather looks more for

-rain. I went out with Captain Cahoon and President Haws to look out a

-better camp ground and we concluded to move on a little farther west

-about a quarter of a mile. It took the company all day to move, it

-being almost impossible to move the loads even with tripling teams.

-About five o'clock Egan and the teams came back with fifty-seven

-bushels of corn. He had to give 21c a bushel for nearly all of it.

-Elder Kimball came over soon after to see if he could not get some of

-it. While we were talking President Pratt and his company arrived and

-reported that their teams have had no corn since yesterday morning

-neither could they get any. Heber remarked that he would say no more

-about us letting him have any although we had only enough to feed five

-ears a feed every three days, and a journey of about fifty miles before

-we can get any more with bad roads. We let Parley have one load. Heber

-came with me to our camp and handed me a letter from President Young

-requesting us all to go on which I read to the company. I felt very

-unwell again and went to bed early.

-

-Thursday, April 9

-

-This morning we concluded to pursue our journey, President Kimball and

-his company started out about seven o'clock. President Pratt started

-out with his company. Our company waited for the latter to start in

-its place till after eight o'clock and then we went on. The roads were

-very bad indeed. About noon it commenced raining heavily which made

-the roads still worse. We had calculated to go about eight miles to

-timber but after toiling till about four o'clock and having traveled

-only about five miles and our teams being entirely worn down we turned

-out of the road to a little branch of water to camp. Several of my

-teams stuck and we had to work till dark to get part of them to camp

-and two wagons we were compelled to leave over night. Quite a number

-were obliged to stay back on the prairie and Charles Hale did not come

-more than a quarter of a mile from where we started this morning. Elder

-Kimball has camped one and a half miles farther on the open prairie and

-many of his teams are yet behind. P. P. Pratt's company are here

-with us as well as George Miller's company except those behind on the

-prairie. It continued to rain very heavily until night. We could not

-make a fire and had little for supper, our provisions being in one of

-the wagons back. This is the most severe time we have had but yet the

-camp seems in good spirits.

-

-Friday, April 10

-

-The weather is yet very wet and gloomy. I spent the morning talking to

-Margaret. At seven o'clock a gale struck up and blew our tents over.

-We then concluded to move a few rods lower out of the wind. Before we

-got moved the wind moved to the west and it grew very cold. Our teams

-are gone back to fetch some of the wagons left last night. It rains and

-blows very badly and is very severe on our women and teams. Margaret

-and Lidia are out all the time and continually wetting both feet and

-all over. We expect Robert Burton's, one of Peck's, Peart's and my

-wagons in tonight. One of mine was fetched early in the morning. Our

-teams fare hard with wet and cold, having very little corn.

-

-Saturday, April 11

-

-This morning rode with Egan to help to get Brother Peart's wagon out of

-the slough. It took five yoke of oxen and twelve men to draw it out.

-The roads are yet very bad but it is fair and very cold. We sent twelve

-yoke of oxen to bring up Peck's and Charles Hale's wagon. They got in

-late at night.

-

-Sunday, April 12

-

-This morning before I got up, P. P. Pratt called and said that

-President Young wants the council to meet at Heber's camp at ten

-o'clock. I started out with Captain Egan on foot and arrived in

-season. Had some conversation with Ellen Sanders Kimball and then

-went to council. It was decided to change our route and take a more

-northern one to avoid the settlements. We will go to Grand River and

-there enclose a space of land about two miles square and put up some

-twenty log houses for a resting place for the companies. A company

-starts out in a day or two to seek out the location amongst whom are

-the President, Heber and others of the twelve. A company will also be

-sent west to Judge Miller's to go to work for feed, etc. After council

-I took dinner with Heber, the President being with us. I then wrote a

-letter to the trustees and returned with Captain Egan to our camp and

-soon after went to bed. The day has been fine but cold.

-

-Monday, April 13

-

-Finished my letter to Diantha and then went over to Peck's blacksmith

-shop. We had concluded not to leave till morning. While there a message

-arrived saying that Haws has sent eight yoke of cattle to help us on.

-We then concluded to start forthwith, being noon. But although we had

-so many extra teams, we had to leave three wagons in camp over night.

-Four of my folks walked all the way but still it was hard for me to get

-along. Keller had to stay back over night. I arrived at Locust Creek,

-being about four miles journey, about six o'clock and sent the cattle

-back for Peck and Steven Hales but they did not return till morning.

-In the evening the band played some. James broke his wagon tongue. We

-camped a little north of President Heber's camp.

-

-Tuesday, April 14

-

-The weather is again very fine. Because some of the wagons did not

-come, Egan and I concluded to go and meet them and not start farther

-until tomorrow. We met the teams close by and then took a northern

-course a hunting. We saw only squirrels and I got five of them. About

-noon we returned and found the camp mostly gone. Orders had come from

-the President for the whole to move to his camp today. Charles Terry

-and Henry were gone a hunting which detained me till about three

-o'clock. James and I then started with the four wagons. They overtook

-us when we had got about one half mile. We found the road very bad and

-had to double teams, our horses being so badly worn down. Charles Terry

-broke a wagon tongue.

-

-Wednesday, April 15

-

-Last night I got up to watch, there being no guard. The cattle and

-horses breaking into the tents and wagons. I tarried up then called S.

-Hales and Kimball. This morning Ellen Kimball came to me and wishes me

-much joy. She said Diantha has a son. I told her I was afraid it was

-not so, but she said Brother Pond had received a letter. I went over

-to Pond's and he read that she had a fine fat boy on the 30th ult.,

-but she was very sick with ague and mumps. Truly I feel to rejoice at

-this intelligence but feel sorry to hear of her sickness. Spent the day

-chiefly reading. In the afternoon President Young came over and found

-some fault about our wagons, etc. In the evening the band played and

-after we dismissed the following persons retired to my tent to have a

-social christening, viz. William Pitt, Hutchinson, Smithies, Kay, Egan,

-Duzett, Redding, William Cahoon, James Clayton and Charles A. Terry and

-myself. We had a very pleasant time playing and singing until about

-twelve o'clock and drank health to my son. We named him William Adriel

-Benoni Clayton. The weather has been fine but rains a little tonight.

-Henry Terry's horses are missing and have been hunted today but not

-found. This morning I composed a new song--"All is well." I feel

-to thank my heavenly father for my boy and pray that he will spare and

-preserve his life and that of his mother and so order it so that we

-may soon meet again. O Lord bless thine handmaid and fill her with thy

-spirit, make her healthy that her life may be prolonged and that we

-may live upon the earth and honor the cause of truth. In the evening I

-asked the President if he would not suffer me to send for Diantha. He

-consented and said we would send when we got to Grand River.

-

-Thursday, April 16

-

-This morning prepared to proceed on our journey but a span of horses in

-our company in care of Henry Terry being missing we concluded not to

-start. I sent out three men to hunt them. Soon after they were brought

-into camp by another person. I then sent Henry Terry to hunt for the

-men but it was after two o'clock before they returned. We fed a little

-corn and then started. The company is far ahead of us. We traveled very

-slowly our teams were so weak. However, we soon came into sight of the

-camp but it was six o'clock before we got there, having traveled about

-seven miles. The camp was formed on a beautiful prairie, President

-Young's camp being on a little eminence. President Kimball's about

-three quarters of a mile north of his and ours about a quarter of a

-mile east. There is some little grass for our cattle here, but little.

-We sent those of our company about a mile southeast and had a guard

-over them through the night. President Haws, Captains Egan and Kay and

-Jackson Redding went out a hunting. George Hale's cattle were so worn

-down that they could not get along and when within about a mile of

-camp about fifteen of the brethren went to help. They took a rope and

-fixed it on the wagon, loosed the cattle and brought it in themselves,

-singing all the way. At night the band played and then I retired to bed.

-

-Friday, April 17

-

-This morning very fine. Some of the camp started very early on the way.

-I was ready about eight o'clock but was detained on account of Captain

-Haws, Egan and others having gone hunting. I left Margaret to drive my

-team and sent them on and I drove the cattle on foot. We formed our

-encampment on a high dry place.

-

-Sunday, April 19

-

-While the rest are gone to meeting I turned to unpacking and took an

-inventory of church property. It took till about four o'clock to get

-through. Daniel Spencer's company had arrived about five o'clock.

-Porter Rockwell and Edwin Cutler arrived with the mail. Received a

-letter from Diantha confirming the birth of my son, also a letter from

-A. W. Babbit on some business. Went to see the President to show

-him the inventory but could not find him. About dark he sent for me and

-I went again but he was gone and I did not see him. My mare got in a

-mud hole last night and is very badly strained. Evening went to council

-and read many letters and wrote one to Elder Hyde.

-

-Monday, April 20

-

-At nine o'clock went to council. Had to read some letters and several

-pieces from papers. A report was read of all those who are able to fit

-themselves for the mountains. A law was made on motion of President

-Young that any person who interrupts the council hereafter by talking

-or otherwise, shall be deprived the privilege of the council till

-the council see proper to admit him. The public teams being brought

-together, the bishops took a list of them to be disposed of at Grand

-River. After council I went to work to assort the articles to be sold,

-etc. Wrote to Diantha.

-

-Tuesday, April 21

-

-This morning the main body of the camp are gone, but I am obliged

-to tarry and pack up the public goods again and re-load my wagons.

-I weighed most of our loads and it took until night to get through.

-Charles Terry's horse and one of mine are unable to drag any.

-

-Wednesday, April 22

-

-I had intended to start early this morning but our horses were away

-which detained us till nearly nine o'clock. About that time we started

-and traveled slowly about four and a half miles. We then stopped at

-11:30 and thought we would rest our teams and get them cooled off.

-The sun was very warm and they sweat considerably. Word came that

-O. P. Rockwell was on his way and would call for letters. We

-intended to wait until he came. I wrote a short letter to A. W.

-Babbit and one to father but Porter failed to call, and at two o'clock

-we started again. We traveled until about three o'clock when we passed

-Orson Pratt who had concluded to stay a piece east of where the camp

-had tarried last night. He said all the grass was eaten up for several

-miles around. We concluded to go beyond the timber where the main camp

-stayed last night but tried to find grass for our teams. We started

-onward. At the creek watered our teams and rested awhile. We then went

-on about a mile and a half and found good grass and much of it. We at

-once concluded to tarry there. We had put a little wood into our wagons

-to cook with. We arrived on the ground about six o'clock and then got

-the best camp ground we have had for some time.

-

-Three of our teams were behind when we arrived. Horlick got in about

-a half an hour after us and then afterwards Swap and Jones arrived at

-7:30. We are all comfortable but very tired, having traveled about ten

-miles. My wife Ruth walked all the way and myself also. The rest walked

-by turns. We have seen many rattlesnakes today. The weather is very

-fine.

-

-Thursday, April 23

-

-This last night has been very stormy with heavy thunder, hail, rain

-and wind. The thunder and lightning was very loud and the rain fell in

-torrents. The weather continues cold and cloudy with some fine showers.

-There appears some heavy rain in the east and north. Grass looks green

-and the cattle have filled themselves well. We started about ten

-o'clock and soon found that last night's rain had made the roads much

-worse. After traveling about four miles we stopped to graze our teams,

-being one o'clock. While resting Elders Taylor and Orson Pratt passed

-on horseback. At three o'clock we started again and about four came to

-the President's camp. He was just returning from an exploring tour to

-find out better roads. His camp was on the east of a piece of timber.

-He gave orders to move to the other side of the timber about a mile

-from where he then was. We concluded to move on and finally camped on

-the next ridge southwest of his. Our teams are tired and there is not

-much grass. A number of the horses have been bitten by rattlesnakes

-and one is dead. There are a great number of these snakes on these

-prairies. The President says the road to the next timber is all ridges

-and hollows and will be hard on teams. We got camped about 5:30 p.m.,

-and before we got fixed a thunder storm came on with heavy rain but it

-was soon over and the evening afterwards was fine.

-

-Friday, April 24

-

-This morning the President's company made a bridge over a creek and

-started again on their journey. Four of my horses were missing and

-I sent men to hunt them and went myself. They were found about ten

-o'clock. We tarried until about twelve to rest and then started. We

-went about two miles and stayed until four o'clock to graze our teams

-and then went on again and about six o'clock got to timber. I went to

-hunt a camping spot with Egan. We saw some women who told us Grand

-River was only a mile ahead and that the other companies were required

-to go down there. We started and soon arrived at the main body of the

-camp. We formed on the south side of the camp. The ground here is rich,

-timber good, and the prospects good for heavy crops. Here we calculated

-to tarry a while, fence in a piece of land and those who are not

-prepared to go through to tarry and raise crops. Wild onions grow in

-abundance. The weather has been fine today. Evening those of the band

-who are here went to Bishop Miller's tent and played for the President

-and a Mr. Bryant who lives about thirty miles from here. Pitt, George,

-Charles and Steven Hales and William F. Cahoon are way back as yet as

-well as Heber's company.

-

-Saturday, April 25

-

-This morning started by daybreak fishing. About 7:30 the President

-sent for me. I came back but he was gone. President Haws is regulating

-the company to watch our teams and also go to making rails, etc. The

-morning is fine. About nine o'clock Kendall, one of my teamsters,

-brought one of the horses he drives into camp which had been bitten by

-a rattlesnake. His nose had begun to swell badly. We got some spirits

-of turpentine and bathed the wound, washed his face in salt and water

-and gave him some snakes master root boiled in milk. He yet seems very

-sick. Our men have made a pen for the cattle at night. I feel quite

-unwell today. Spent the day chiefly reading. Evening Kennedy came to

-look at our horse and says they have given sufficient of the master

-root to kill four well horses. The horse looks very sick and is already

-scarcely able to stand. The band played a few tunes at night. About

-nine o'clock it rained somewhat and continued to shower through the

-night. Pitt arrived in camp this afternoon.

-

-Sunday, April 26

-

-The first news I heard this morning was that the horse was dead. This

-is a very unlucky circumstance for me for I am already very deficient

-in teams. Moreover, three of my teams leave me here, viz. Horlick,

-Chas. A. Terry and Jones with their wagons and teams. I shall then

-have about quarter teams enough to draw the loads. I have about three

-thousand pounds of church property besides my own goods. I see little

-chance of my moving from here at present. The morning was wet but it

-cleared off and continued so all day. I spent the day reading and

-writing while the rest went to meeting. Evening was sent for to go to

-council. Read a letter from O. Hyde stating that they had had an offer

-of two hundred thousand dollars for the temple. He writes of hard

-times in Nauvoo. The council selected one hundred men to make rails,

-forty-eight to build houses; twelve to dig wells; ten to build a bridge

-and the rest to go to farming.

-

-Steven Markham, C. C. Rich, L. C. Wilson, James Pace to

-oversee the rail cutting. Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, P. P.

-Pratt and Geo. A. Smith the house building. A. P. Rockwood to boss

-bridge building. President Young to boss him and the whole camp and

-Jacob Peart to boss well digging. The council decided to wait until

-morning to decide relative to selling the temple. After we adjourned I

-went into my wagon. I wrote a long letter to Diantha. It was about ten

-o'clock when I got through.

-

-Monday, April 27

-

-Rained all day. At 6:00 a.m., went to meeting. The men were divided out

-to work and commenced operations and had to quit on account of rain.

-After breakfast went to council, when it was voted to sell the temple,

-signifying as to the reason, it will be more likely to be preserved.

-It is as lawful to sell it to help the poor saints as to sell our

-inheritance. We do it because we are compelled to do it. I was ordered

-to write an answer to Elder Hyde's letter which I did, saying finally,

-if the temple was sold, $25,000 must be sent for the benefit of the

-camp. The balance to be left at the disposal of elder Hyde, Woodruff

-and the trustees and to be appropriated to help away those who have

-labored hard to build the temple and the faithful poor of the saints.

-Spent the balance of the day packing up china and crockery to be sent

-by Egan.

-

-Tuesday, April 28

-

-Weather very wet. Moved up on higher ground. Spent the morning

-unpacking chests for files and supplies. Afternoon unloading wagon

-to send a-trading. The weather very wet until night. President Young

-called over and said we had better not send Egan until the weather

-settles. The quadrille band have gone to give concerts in the Platte.

-They had to draw their wagons across the river by ropes the water was

-so high.

-

-Wednesday, April 29

-

-It still continues to rain and the ground is getting quite soft and

-muddy. Spent the day setting men to fixing yokes and bows. Walked out

-about a mile to the bluff west of us. It ceased raining about eleven

-o'clock and continued fair through the day.

-

-Thursday, April 30

-

-Unpacking and re-packing chests all the day. It continues to rain more

-or less and the weather looks bad. Ruth is quite unwell.

-

-

-

-May 1846

-

-Friday, May 1

-

-This month brings the damp wet weather. Chas. Shumway and George

-Langley start for George Herring this morning being instructed to bring

-him on to Council Bluffs. Spent the day preparing for Egan to start

-trading. He has gone with Jackson Redding and has taken $288.00 of

-church property besides two span of horses and harness and near $60.00

-of mine. Afternoon packing chests, etc. The weather finer and fairer.

-

-Saturday, May 2

-

-The day is fine. Preparing some for Horlick's return to Nauvoo on

-Monday. Wrote to Diantha. Selling shoes.

-

-Sunday, May 3

-

-The morning fair, windy and cloudy, southeast wind. Spent the morning

-making a list of all the company who have made their reports, also

-fixing tents. At ten o'clock went to meeting. O. Spencer talked a while

-and was followed by President Young who exhorted the camp to diligence

-in getting in crops for that will be our salvation the next winter. He

-said no company should start from here until the south field was made

-and some houses built. It commenced raining as the meeting closed and

-about three o'clock a thunder storm came on which lasted till near five

-o'clock. I spent the afternoon reading. Soon after five it cleared off

-some and the sun shone again. While at supper President Young called

-and stated that he wished that I should go to council with him. I

-started and the council met opposite his tent. It was decided that his

-fifty build the bridge tomorrow and all the rest to make rails and also

-that Sherwood and Orson Pratt go about twenty-five or thirty miles

-southwest to seek out another section.

-

-Monday, May 4

-

-Finished my letter to Diantha and sent it by John Richards. Horlick has

-concluded to tarry till my wagons are fixed. I spent the day examining

-my flour and crackers and helping to fix the tent as considerable of

-my crackers and flour are damaged on account of having poor wagons.

-I dreamed last night that I saw Diantha and her babe. Her babe was

-dressed in white and appeared to be lying down with its eyes closed.

-She was bent over it apparently in sorrow. When I went to her she flew

-to me earnestly but the babe seemed to be kept still and asleep, and I

-awoke. This dream has troubled me considerably. Evening met the clerks

-of 50's in my tent and instructed them how to make their reports, etc.

-

-Tuesday, May 5

-

-The weather very fine. I spent the day preparing to enter the reports

-on the record. Went over to J. D. Lee's and learned that some of

-the clerks had been to the President and told him that I had ordered

-that they should include in their reports each wife a man has. I did

-not do any such thing, only requested each name should be in full

-according to the order of a previous council. The President said it

-did not matter about the names being in full but I think in after days

-it will prove it does. Dr. Richards thinks as I do. The President,

-I understand, appeared quite angry. Many of the band are entirely

-destitute of provisions and my flour is so nearly down I have concluded

-to eat biscuit. I have given the band considerable of my biscuit

-already. At nine o'clock fixing my wagons. Expected a storm which soon

-afterwards commenced, raining and thundering very hard. Raining most of

-the night.

-

-Wednesday, May 6

-

-Writing in the camp record. In the afternoon a storm arose emitting

-very violent wind, thunder, lightning, rain and hail. Many tents blew

-over. One of mine blew over and most of our articles were wet and some

-nearly spoiled. I have been informed that Esther Kay has been offering

-bitter complaints because they do not fare as well as some others. The

-hint was thrown at Margaret and she understood that it was for me.

-I have today let Miss Kay a pair of shoes and took down a large bag

-of biscuits and divided it amongst those who are needy. I have all

-the time let them have flour, sugar, bacon and other things as I had

-them and to hear of dissatisfaction because I will not let them have

-the last I have grieves me. I have given to the band as near as I can

-estimate, twelve hundred pounds of flour, about four or five hundred

-pounds of bacon besides much of other things. Towards evening it did

-not rain so much but continued hard after we went to bed. The wind was

-very severe, almost as bad as I ever saw it for about a half an hour.

-

-Thursday, May 7

-

-This morning it is dull, cloudy and cold. About nine o'clock commenced

-raining again. I have again given Sister Kay a quart cup full of sugar.

-I have spent the day entering reports on record.

-

-Friday, May 8

-

-The weather fine and pleasant. Spent the day fixing wagon covers and

-wagons. Andrew Cahoon arrived from Nauvoo with the mail but no letter

-from Diantha or father. He says the troops arrested O. P. Rockwell

-last Thursday evening and took him to Carthage and thence to Quincy

-jail. It is doubtful whether he will now escape their cruel vengeance.

-This morning the mare had a colt. I have felt quite unwell all day.

-Evening went to President Young's to get records to look for a deed

-from Hiram Kimball to Ira S. Miles. Searched till near ten o'clock

-but the deed is not on record. Kimball seems disposed to take all the

-advantages he can from everyone.

-

-Saturday, May 9

-

-Morning fixing wagon cover, counseling with Wm. Cahoon and then was

-called aside by the President to read two letters from Sister Harris

-and her son. Dr. Richards, John Smith and Heber were present. Afternoon

-went fishing. The weather fine and no wind.

-

-Sunday, May 10

-

-Wrote a letter to Diantha, one to trustees, one to father, one to

-Brother Burdick, one to Thos. Moore and one to John Everett. Keller

-returned with thirteen bushels of meal and 250 pounds of bacon from

-the guard, having been gone twelve days. Evening went to council to

-Heber's tent. Samuel Bent having been appointed at today's meeting to

-preside over those left on his arm, he chose David Fullmer and Ezra T.

-Benson for counselors. P. P. Pratt was advised to start as soon as

-possible for Platte River to take all who were prepared to go.

-

-Monday, May 11

-

-Morning distributing meal and bacon to the band. Afterwards the

-President, Heber, and Dr. Richards came and took some cordage.

-Afternoon weighing and loading.

-

-Tuesday, May 12

-

-Sent Keller and Corbite to the mills to try and get flour, meal and two

-cows. Weighing and packing. About nine was sent for to go to council.

-I waited about two hours before anything was done. The vote for Ezra

-T. Benson to stay as counselor for father Bent was rescinded and it

-was voted to take Aron Johnson in his place. A letter of authority

-was written for father Bent by Dr. Richards but he made me copy it,

-and afterwards when the President spoke to him to write to O. P.

-Rockwell he favored me to do that although I left three men waiting to

-weigh my loading and load my wagon. The fact is I can scarcely ever

-go to council but Dr. Richards wants me to do his writing, although I

-have more writing to do as clerk of the camp than I can possibly do.

-Moreover I have to unpack the chest and wait on all of them with the

-public goods in my charge which keeps me busy all the time. President

-Young, Heber, Dr. Richards and Bishop Whitney have all made out to get

-lumber sawed to make their wagons comfortable but I can't get enough

-to make a hind board for one of my wagons, which has none. They are

-tolerably well prepared with wagons and teams but I am here with about

-five tons of stuff and only six wagons and five yoke of oxen to take

-it. I have dealt out nearly all of my provisions and have to get more

-before I can go on. It looks as if I had to be a slave and take slave's

-fare all the journey for it has worked that way so far. After council I

-was weighing and loading, etc., until night. We had some rain at night.

-

-Wednesday, May 13

-

-The morning fair, but cloudy. Still loading my wagons and preparing to

-move. President Young and Heber's companies have gone and left me. I

-asked Jones and Terry what provisions I should have to leave them while

-they put in the crops. They concluded that 25 lbs. of corn meal each,

-and from 25 to 50 lbs. of bacon for three of them would be enough for

-twenty days. I think so, for we do not use as much meat in the same

-time in my whole family and as to 25 lbs. of corn meal each for so long

-a time, it is far more than my family can have. I have also to supply

-Horlick with provisions to take him back to Nauvoo and have kept four

-of them since they came here while they are to work for themselves. All

-this continues to weaken my hands for the journey. I have to get three

-new teamsters and also feed them while the others are living on my

-food. Markham came in the evening and said the President had sent word

-to father Bent to raise cattle enough to take my load to the new place

-tomorrow morning but I cannot go because my horses have gone to the

-mill for meal. Evening it commenced raining again and rained nearly all

-night.

-

-Thursday, May 14

-

-This morning is fair, but cloudy and like for more rain. Jones has

-concluded to leave for Nauvoo this morning and leave his son to

-plant for him. I have given him and Charles A. Terry a letter of

-recommendation. Jones asked me and said I would have to leave him some

-provisions while he put in his crops but I do not feel to do it for I

-think it is far more reasonable that the company for whom he has been

-working should supply him instead of me doing it out of the little

-provisions I have. I have left Charles and Henry Terry 50 lbs. of meal

-and 14 lbs. of bacon besides boarding them two weeks while they have

-been working on their farm. I went to see Brother Bent about the teams

-and from him learned that he could only raise three yoke of oxen and

-no wagon. I went to see Crisman who had promised two yoke and told him

-I should start in the morning then went and spent the day fixing the

-loads, etc.

-

-Friday, May 15

-

-This morning Crisman called and said he should not let his cattle go

-until Brother Miller returned. I then concluded to take what teams I

-had and take my wagons and go on a few miles. I borrowed two yoke of

-oxen from Sister Kay and started. We got the wagons over the river and

-on the bluff about a mile and then stopped to let the teams feed. I

-walked on and met Brothers Miller, Pitt, Kay, and Hutchinson with a

-large drove of cows and cattle. I told Brother Miller my situation and

-the request of the President but I could get no satisfaction. We moved

-on with half of the wagons and I selected a spot over a quarter of a

-mile from timber. They then went back for the other wagons and got them

-all up about six o'clock. Reddings have come here also, and Sister Egan

-with one or two others.

-

-Saturday, May 16

-

-This morning is fine but the weather doesn't look like being fair long.

-I have concluded to send two wagons through and wait until the teams

-return before I can move farther. Swap and Conrad are gone with all the

-teams I have and I have sent A. Johnson's cattle back because they were

-useless unless I could have more. The day was very warm. I spent the

-day mostly reading. Afternoon Duzett, Hutchinson and Pitt arrived with

-their wagons.

-

-Sunday, May 17

-

-Spent the day mostly reading. Weather very warm. Afternoon Bishop

-Miller's company passed but he did not leave me any cattle although he

-has plenty and many cows. This agrees with his course, for from about

-two months before we left Nauvoo to the present, he has done nothing

-but for himself.

-

-Monday, May 18

-

-Morning went on the road about two miles to see if I could meet Keller

-and Corbitt. It rained and thundered some and continued cloudy through

-the day.

-

-Tuesday, May 19

-

-Spent the morning reading, afterwards went fishing. Some teams returned

-from camp and said that some from Nauvoo had arrived there which

-started two weeks ago last Saturday and that Elder Hyde had advised all

-the saints to move over the river as fast as possible from Nauvoo, and

-they have their ferry boats constantly employed. A number are already

-on their way here.

-

-Wednesday, May 20

-

-This morning is very rainy and cold. Spun twenty yards of fish line

-and tied on eleven hooks. Swap and Conrad returned soon after eleven

-o'clock. They say the camp is about thirty miles ahead. They confirm

-the report of some having arrived from Nauvoo and say they were told

-that my father is on his way here. The roads are lined with teams,

-etc., on the other road north of this. Horlick came this afternoon for

-more victuals. Although he is a good wagon maker and carpenter, he is

-either unwilling to work or the camp at the farms is unwilling to board

-him for his work which I hardly believe. It seems as though teamsters

-are resolved to live on me till they eat all I have and I now lack

-about three thousand lbs. of provisions to proceed with. I can learn of

-no one who has fed his teamsters as long as I have after they stopped

-teaming and moreover, the teamsters started with church property but I

-have sustained them out of my own provisions. Towards evening it was

-fair but still threatens to rain again. I cannot yet learn a word from

-Diantha but think she must be on her way. My family is yet in good

-health except Margaret who looks sick but doesn't complain.

-

-Thursday, May 21

-

-Continued raining this morning but about noon it began to be fine.

-About five o'clock a heavy thunder storm came up and it started raining

-heavily. Storm after storm kept coming far into the night. Wilham F.

-Gaboon called on his way up between the two companies. He wanted some

-salt but I had none for him.

-

-Friday, May 22

-

-This morning fine but cloudy, ground wet and soft. Wrote some in the

-camp record. About nine o'clock started on the road to look for a

-good camp ground. James started at the same time on horseback to see

-if he could meet Keller. I went about three miles and waited till he

-returned but no news from Keller. I concluded to move my camp about

-three miles and sent James back to load up and come on. I waited until

-they came. It was after five o'clock before they came up, the loads

-being heavy and the teams weak, the loads being too heavy for them. We

-are now camped on a very pleasant spot not far from timber. We have

-camped near the summit of a ridge where we can see a long way on both

-the roads leading to Miller's mill and to the next camp. Soon after we

-arrived Horace Whitney passed. I sent word to the President to send me

-more teams. I told Horlick we could not board him any longer and gave

-him a line to father asking him to board him until he returns. Have

-borrowed some meal from Edward Martin to get along. If Keller doesn't

-come soon we shall have to obtain something to eat somewhere or go

-short. We have nothing left to eat but some corn, and being short of

-milk we can not cook it to our advantage. James and I were consulting

-just at dusk as to the wisdom of one of us starting out to try and meet

-Keller and Corbitt or see if we could learn something of them. We both

-felt positive they had lost their horses. While we were talking we

-saw Keller and Horlick riding up from the first farm. From Keller we

-learned they had got horses and loads and were coming on the other road

-and would wait till we came up to meet them if we thought best. He said

-the guard had all returned and were with the wagons. This was joyful

-news to us and I felt my heart much relieved.

-

-Saturday, May 23

-

-James started out early to meet the wagons. After breakfast we started

-on the road and while standing Keller came up and said it was about

-four and a half miles to where the other road joins the main road. I

-started ahead on foot and after traveling about three miles came up to

-the teams where they had waited on the road. When I got up the guard

-seemed pleased to see me. Captain Allen had bought about thirty-six

-bushels of meal and 200 lbs. of bacon. They would not receive any

-pay for it. They have been faithful and diligent and have done much.

-There is yet $12.00 due them from the meal and they are determined

-I shall have that too. When my teams came up we put the meal in the

-wagons and started on. We went about a mile farther to Peter's Bridge

-where we concluded to camp for the night. We arranged our loading and

-I concluded to let Brother Allen have the wagon and team in his hands

-which is church property to send back to Nauvoo for his family. The

-guard made out a list of provisions which they wished me to leave them

-which was indeed very little. I gave them four pairs of shoes and

-probably three bushels of meal which is all the remuneration they would

-accept for all they had brought. They seemed well satisfied.

-

-Sunday, May 24

-

-This morning I gave certificates of discharge to A. Keller, John

-Horlick, Orville Allen, M. A. Dodge, Tollman, Starks, Mecham,

-Bartlet and P. R. Wright. Keller and Horlick started immediately

-for Nauvoo and Wright and Dodge soon after. I concluded to move on

-about two miles to where Hutchinson and Duzett were in camp. I started

-out on foot and most of my family soon after. It soon began to rain

-and rained till I was wet through. I traveled on about four and a half

-miles but could see no camp near timber. I stopped to rest at a post

-put up by Stewart where the Raccoon fork led off. While there Josiah

-Arnold passed on his way to Miller's. From him I learned that there

-was a camp ground about a half a mile farther. I went on and waited.

-Before any of the wagons arrived James came up. Soon after news arrived

-that Swap had broke his wagon tongue. I sent James to help bring on

-the loads. We only started with three wagons and left three back with

-Corbitt and Martin. The teams worked hard all day and at half past nine

-the last team arrived having taken all day to travel about five miles.

-

-Monday, May 25

-

-This morning I sent James and Corbitt to go and trade three horses

-and some harness for cows. About noon I started out with two wagons

-and left one and about three loads of stuff in care of two of the

-guard. After we had traveled about three miles I met a messenger from

-the camp who handed me two letters, one was from Diantha and one from

-Brother Whitaker concerning a piece of land. We went on about a mile

-and crossed a creek where we waited to rest our teams. When I read

-Diantha's letter it gave me painful feelings to hear of her situation.

-After resting about an hour we went on about four miles farther and

-camped near Father Baker's camp on a creek. It was night before we

-got supper over. I found several men going back to Nauvoo for their

-families.

-

-Tuesday, May 26

-

-Wrote an answer to Whitaker's letter and also one to Diantha. We

-started on about eight o'clock and found the road bad and many bad

-creeks where the bridges had been washed away. After traveling two

-miles one of my wagons loaded with corn meal was upset in a hole. But

-after about an hour's labor we got the loading in. The wagon was not

-much damaged. We proceeded about three miles farther and met two men

-with six yoke of oxen which President Young had sent to meet us. This

-was a great relief to us for we saw that we could not get to camp today

-because of our teams being so worn down. We rested our teams about an

-hour and then started on at a good pace. We found several more very

-bad creeks to pass but we did not have much difficulty. Duzett and

-myself drove the cows. Edward Martin drove his horses. About sundown

-we arrived in camp, having traveled about thirteen miles. This place

-is called Mt. Pisgah and is a very beautiful situation, the prairie

-rolling and rich, skirted with beautiful groves of timber on the main

-fork of the Grand river. Soon after we arrived Elder Kimball came

-to welcome us to camp and then came Elder Richards and family and

-President Young who all seemed glad to see us in camp.

-

-Wednesday, May 27

-

-This morning my horses and one cow and several of the oxen are missing.

-I went to see Bishop Whitney about getting teams to send back for the

-loads remaining but could get no satisfaction from him. I went back

-and unloaded two wagons on the ground and about the same time saw the

-President who said he would send for them. Elder Kimball sent one

-wagon and the President sent two. President Young said they intended

-to take the church property in their wagons and take it on to Council

-Bluffs but I must go with them and leave James and Corbitt and Egan to

-bring on the wagons they have, etc. I cannot think they understand my

-situation in regard to the teams or they would make some definite move

-about it. They intend to start in a day or two and I tried to fix the

-wagons in good order but had no chance to get even one fixed. Spent the

-day fixing up my tent and had to get a new pole. Heber took my other

-one. Afternoon it commenced gathering for a storm and we had barely

-time to get the tent up and the things under it before it began to rain

-and continued till I went to sleep. George Herring and Shumway arrived

-here last night. I spoke with them today.

-

-Thursday, May 28

-

-The morning dull and foggy, ground wet, etc. Went fishing some. Evening

-played with Hutchinson and Pitt. All my oxen, horses and the cow were

-found. I went out this morning hunting for them on foot. Evening

-raining.

-

-Friday, May 29

-

-The weather fine, cool, and windy. Talked with Heber some. He says I

-shall have teams. One of my wagons came in this morning.

-

-Saturday, May 30

-

-Went and borrowed a robe and ornaments from Aaron Farr then rode

-with Dr. Richards about three miles on the prairie. There were five

-others and among them President Young. Two tents were brought and

-we fixed them up and then met and clothed. There were President

-Young, P. P. Pratt, J. Taylor, Geo. A. Smith, A. Lyman, John

-Smith, N. K. Whitney, D. Spencer, O. Spencer, C. C. Rich,

-E. T. Benson, Wm. Huntington and myself. Clothed and having

-offered up the signs, offered up prayer, Heber C. Kimball being mouth.

-We then conversed awhile and appeared again, Geo. A. Smith being

-mouth--A. P. Rockwood and Wm. Kimball were guarding the tent.

-Prayers were offered that we might be delivered from our enemies and

-have teams to go on our journey, etc. About two o'clock we returned to

-camp. Many of the teams were coming in and among the rest, the teams

-sent back for my loading which all arrived tonight.

-

-Sunday, May 31

-

-Having heard that Egan was near I started out to meet him. The morning

-was fine but about eleven o'clock it began to thunder. I went about

-two miles and before I got back without seeing Egan it rained heavily.

-I was wet through. I called at the meeting while President Young was

-speaking. It rained nearly all the afternoon. Noal Richards died.

-

-

-

-June 1846

-

-Monday, June 1

-

-Was wet in the morning and windy all day. The council got me four

-wagons and seven yoke of oxen to take church property.

-

-Tuesday, June 2

-

-Still windy but fair. President Young has again stated I lack some

-cattle yet. Fixing my wagon, etc. Have about teams enough but lack

-teamsters.

-

-Wednesday, June 3

-

-Fixing my wagons. Concluded to start on. My teams were scattered but we

-started with what we had. We got over the river at three o'clock, one

-yoke of cattle still missing. I sent the men hunting for them but they

-were not found.

-

-Thursday, June 4

-

-Again sent the men hunting cattle. The day was very cold and windy,

-almost as cold as winter. I spent the day fixing a wagon for Diantha

-expecting her on in about two weeks. Lucy Walker called in this

-afternoon and expressed sorrow on account of the treatment of Heber's

-family toward her. Amos Fielding called on his way to the President's

-camp. Towards evening it rained and there was one of the most beautiful

-rainbows I ever saw in my life. We could see its brilliant reflection

-within a few rods of us. In the evening Douzett came for his cow which

-had tarried with ours. He concluded to stay over night. My teamsters

-returned without finding the cattle.

-

-Friday, June 5

-

-Sent all the men except James Douglas to hunt the cattle. About nine

-o'clock my adopted son Thomas Corbich returned with them. I then waited

-till two o'clock for the men to return, three of them being still

-absent. I have now eleven wagons, sixteen yoke of oxen, six cows,

-five horses, and six teamsters, besides my brother James, whose names

-are Conrad Neil, Levi N. Kendall, James Douglas, Milton F. Bartlett,

-Willard Smith, and A. E. Hinkel, four of the latter are new to me

-and do not seem to know much about teaming. At two o'clock I concluded

-to start on and after about an hour's preparation we started. The men

-took two teams each. I drove the cows on foot. The roads are a great

-deal better. We traveled about six miles and camped on a hill beyond

-nice timber. Pitt is here and Brother Taylor's camp. Amos called on his

-way back to England. He stayed and conversed a while. I will here say

-that the oxen put in by Brothers Olive and Rich to take church property

-are very poor and some of them scarcely of any use. We arrived here

-about half past six o'clock. The day has been cold, fine and fair.

-

-Saturday, June 6

-

-The morning very fine. We started out at eight o'clock; Pitt joined

-with us. I went on foot to drive the cows. About ten o'clock we had a

-little rain. After traveling about seven miles we arrived at a piece

-of timber where the patriarch John Smith was resting. We concluded to

-rest our teams here and stopped at half past eleven. At one o'clock we

-started again and soon after had a heavy thunder shower. I was about

-a mile ahead of the wagons and having no shelter was soon completely

-drenched with rain. It got very cold while raining. As soon as the

-wagons came up we stopped till the shower was over which did not last

-long. We then pursued our journey and at six o'clock camped on the open

-prairie a long way from timber, having traveled about sixteen miles.

-After the shower the day was fine. I was very tired and wet and after

-eating a little went to bed. Vilate Ruth is weaning from the breast

-today which makes her cry.

-

-Sunday, June 7

-

-Inasmuch as we were not near timber we concluded to travel on till we

-found some. We started at eight o'clock and traveled till two, being

-about nine miles, when we came to a little grove of timber and just

-beyond a bad bottom of prairies. I concluded to pass this and camp on

-the adjoining ridge. I drove the cows all day on foot. My feet were

-sore and blistered. The day was very fine. Sometime after we arrived

-Father John Smith came and camped just below us.

-

-Monday, June 8

-

-The weather fine. Traveled about ten miles, the roads being very hilly

-and uneven. We camped on a bottom near timber. I went fishing and had

-good success. I drove the cows till noon then rode with family.

-

-Tuesday, June 9

-

-Weather fine and hot. Went fishing at daybreak with James and had

-good luck. At nine we went on. I rode again. Afternoon three Indians

-overtook us and begged some bread. We camped on a bottom beside Coleman

-and others, having traveled about twelve miles. Two Indians are here

-and we have learned their camp is only three miles from us. President

-Young left word to go in companies from here to avoid being plundered

-by the Indians. We had our cattle tied up and a guard over them through

-the night.

-

-Wednesday, June 10

-

-Went fishing at daybreak and caught thirty-six. Weather hot. We started

-about nine o'clock and found the roads good but over hills and ravines

-all the day. At six o'clock we camped in sight of the Pottawattamie

-Indian village. When about two miles from it they discovered us coming

-and we soon saw a number of them riding towards us. Some had bells

-on their horses which frightened our horses and cattle. James and I

-took the horses and let the others take the oxen the best way they

-could. Some of the Indians followed our wagons and inquired often for

-whiskey. We had to pass some timber and a river before we arrived at

-their village which is situated on a very beautiful ridge skirted

-by timber and beautiful rolling prairie. Before we arrived at the

-timber it seemed that the whole village had turned out, men, women,

-and children, some on horses and many on foot. Their musicians came

-and played while we passed them. They seemed to escort our wagons and

-asked if we were Mormons. When we told them we were they seemed highly

-pleased. It took us some time to cross the bridge over the river and

-then we were perfectly surrounded by Indians apparently from curiosity

-and friendship. They watched us cross the bridge and others followed

-on with us. The boys seemed to learn the words our teamsters used to

-drive the cattle and would run and in their way help to drive. They

-manifested every feeling of friendship and nothing unkind or unfriendly

-transpired. Soon after we passed the bridge we were met by Jas. W.

-Cummings and the brethren from Shariton Ford with John L. Butler to

-bring Emmet's company to meet us. The cattle have been with Emmet's

-company from the time they left Nauvoo. The road leads within about

-two hundred yards of the Indians and I wanted to go about two miles

-farther to save the necessity of having a guard but soon after we left

-the village we had to ford a stream which was deep and bad to cross.

-I then concluded to camp on the ridge above the ford and in sight

-of the village, being about a half or three quarters of a mile from

-them. Many of them followed us, men, women and children and watched

-all our movements but about dark all departed in peace. They seemed

-well pleased with their visit. They certainly showed every mark of

-friendship and kindness imaginable and treated us as brothers. We

-learned that the chief's daughter was buried today. We have traveled

-about fifteen miles. From Cummings we learned that Emmet had left his

-things belonging to the company with him. Part of the company has

-crossed at St. Louis and are now on the line here. The agent of the

-U. S. refuses to let them pass. The other part of the company are

-thirty miles below the bluffs expecting us to cross there.

-

-Thursday, June 11

-

-Many of the Indians again came to the camp with the same friendly

-feeling. Some squaws came to trade. We started soon after nine, the

-weather being very hot. We traveled over about five miles of very

-uneven road. The rest was good. We had to travel till late before we

-came to water. We camped on a small creek where Coleman and Tanner were

-camped, having traveled about fourteen miles.

-

-Friday, June 12

-

-Traveled about three miles, the weather being very hot. We camped on

-a beautiful ridge where the main body had evidently left but little

-before, beside a large rapid stream. I concluded to stay here until

-Monday to rest our teams and give their shoulders a chance to heal,

-several of which were very sore.

-

-Saturday, June 13

-

-Fixing a wagon, etc. The weather very hot. Evening killed one of our

-cows. The mosquitoes here began to be very troublesome, there being so

-many of them and so bloodthirsty.

-

-Sunday, June 14

-

-The weather very hot and the mosquitoes tremendously bad. This morning

-I weighed bread for each man at the rate of a half a pound a day.

-They seem very much dissatisfied and growl to each other very much. I

-weighed for my family of ten as much as I weighed for six teamsters.

-They were dissatisfied but we had some left. They have hitherto had

-all they wanted three times a day and above this have eaten up a bag

-of crackers unknown to me which I had reserved for the mountains.

-The mosquitoes being so bad, I concluded to go on a little piece. We

-started at 1:00 p.m. and traveled until four when we arrived at a small

-clear stream having traveled about six miles. I camped here and in the

-evening told the men a part of what I thought of their conduct.

-

-Monday, June 15

-

-The morning cooler but mosquitoes bad. Our horses were missing and

-we were detained till ten o'clock before we could start. The horses

-had gone back to where we left yesterday. We traveled till sundown

-before we came to water, being about twelve miles. We camped near to

-C. L. Whitney.

-

-Tuesday, June 16

-

-Started at 7:30 and traveled about twelve miles when we came in sight

-of the Missouri river and the main camp about five miles farther. We

-soon learned that some of the camp were coming back to find water.

-There being no water where we were, we moved back about two miles to a

-spring and there camped expecting to stay until we should learn what to

-do.

-

-Wednesday, June 17

-

-This morning Kay and Duzett rode up and said they were anxiously

-expecting us at the camp and wanted us to go immediately. I went to

-the camp with them to look out a place while my men yoked up and

-brought the wagons. When I arrived I saw Heber. He seemed pleased to

-see me and went with me to look out a place to camp. I fixed a spot

-between President Young's camp and Bishop Miller's. Heber said the

-twelve had an invitation to go to the village to the agent's to dinner

-and they wanted the band to go with them. I went back to meet the

-wagons which had been detained on account of some of the cattle being

-missing. As soon as my wagons arrived I got ready and started in Heber

-s carriage with Heber, Bishop Whitney, and Smithies. Edward Martin,

-Pitt, Hutchinsoo, Kay and Duzett rode in the other carriage. When we

-arrived at Mr. Mitchell's, the agent's place, we were introduced to him

-one by one. We then played and Kay sang until about five o'clock when

-we returned. This village is situated but a little distance from the

-river, probably fifty rods. It is composed of twelve or fifteen blocks,

-houses without glass in the windows, and is the noted place where the

-Lamanites for years held their council. The inhabitants are composed of

-Lamanites, half breeds and a few white folks. I had an introduction to

-Sarrapee an Indian trader. We arrived home just at dusk.

-

-Thursday, June 18

-

-Fixing a wagon all day. Evening went fishing. Spoke to Bishop Whitney

-about some more teams.

-

-Friday, June 19

-

-Fixing wagons and preparing to send off some things to trade. Evening

-went fishing. Went with the band to hold a concert at the village. Many

-went from the camp. The Indians and half breeds collected $10.10 and

-gave it to us and the agent Mr. Mitchel gave a dinner to all that came.

-

-Sunday, June 21

-

-At home until evening. At 5:00 met with the brethren of the camp and

-acted as clerk while they selected men to build the boat.

-

-Monday, June 22

-

-Fixing my wagons. The day was windy and cold. I was informed yesterday

-that Diantha is twenty miles back from Mt. Pisgah with her father still

-farther back. They have sent her chest on to Pisgah and she is with

-Loren. I partly made up my mind to start in the morning and bring her.

-

-Tuesday, June 23

-

-This morning I got my food ready to start after Diantha but Vilate Ruth

-seemed quite sick and I concluded not to start. We took the teams and

-went to the village to pick gooseberries but it rained nearly all the

-time we were gone. I bought a scythe and some other things and tried

-to trade a watch for a yoke of cattle. Major Mitchel offered me three

-yoke for the gold watch. We got home about 3:00. I then went and told

-the President about Mitchel's offer and he told me to sell it. It was

-so cold and wet and windy we went to bed early and soon after we got

-to bed, Heber and Dr. Richards came to my wagon with two letters from

-Diantha, one dated Nauvoo, May 17, 1846, the other Big Prairie, June

-18th. She tells that she is sent on by her father and is with Loren and

-is very anxious that I should bring her or send for her. I made up my

-mind to start tomorrow. The night was very stormy with strong winds and

-heavy rains.

-

-Wednesday, June 24

-

-The morning wet and cold. I went over to President Young and told him

-where I was going and what for. He said he would get the cattle for me.

-I also spoke to Heber and he said: "Go and prosper." At 11:00 I went

-to council and President Young, Kimball and Taylor concluded also to

-go to Pisgah after the cannon. I started at two o'clock it then being

-fair. At five o'clock I passed Father Knowlton's company thirteen miles

-from camp and at seven passed Laharpe's company and inquired of Brother

-Burgham and Freeman about Diantha but could not learn much from them.

-Brother Ezra Bickford was here on his way back to Nauvoo. He said he

-was tired from riding on horseback and asked if I would let him go with

-me to Pisgah and use his horse in the wagon. I told him to come on. I

-soon found it made a difference in the load. We went on about two miles

-and stopped at dark on the middle of the prairie near no water. After

-feeding we lay down to rest. We had several heavy showers through the

-night.

-

-Thursday, June 25

-

-This morning arose at four o'clock and moved our wagon a little to

-fresh grass to let the horses feed, they being tied to it. It is fair,

-but cloudy. We started again at 5:30 a.m., traveled till 10:00 then

-rested till 2:00 and then traveled until dark, making thirty-one miles.

-We camped just beyond the Indian village in the midst of a severe

-thunder storm. It rained most of the day and the roads were bad.

-

-Friday, June 26

-

-Did not start until after seven. Morning fair, roads bad. After

-traveling about six miles we found Horace Clark and others camped on

-one side of a small stream and Orson Spencer on the other side. The

-creek was full of water to the bank and in the deepest place about six

-feet over the bridge and a part of the bridge washed away. We tarried

-until 3:00 and then concluded to try to get over. Walter L. Davis and

-Wm. D. Huntington volunteered to help us over. We unloaded the wagon

-box for a boat, taking a few of our things over at a time. When we got

-them all over we swam the horses over, loaded up, and at 5:00 started

-again and went till near nine having traveled about sixteen miles.

-

-Saturday, June 27

-

-The day was fine and we traveled about thirty-eight miles and camped

-on the prairie about eight miles from Pisgah. During the day we passed

-some U. S. officers on their way to see President Young and the

-council. We afterwards learned that they professed to be going to the

-authorities of the church by order of the President of the United

-States to raise five hundred volunteer Mormons to defend Santa Fe, etc.

-

-Sunday, June 28

-

-At daybreak it rained again. We started at four o'clock and arrived

-at Pisgah at eight. Had some conversation with Father Huntington and

-C. C. Rich. We fed and at nine o'clock started again. We soon

-saw Brother Woodruff. He was glad to see me and we conversed together

-some time. From him I learned that Missouri had sent up a committee to

-Pisgah to search for forts and cannon, etc. He says the Missourians

-are terrified and many are moving from the back to the interior

-settlements. He also stated that we have a friend in the British

-Parliament and the British had held a private council in relation to

-the treatment of the U. S. towards us. Britain is making great

-preparations for war. They have sent ten thousand troops to Canada

-and a fleet around Cape Horn to Oregon. They are intending to arm

-the slaves of the south and have their agents in the Indian country

-trying to bring them in war to fight the U. S. After we left

-Elder Woodruff we passed on and soon met Sister Durpee and Brother

-Lott and his company. He said Diantha was back about four miles. Soon

-after we met Orville Allen and from him learned that Diantha was back

-at least twelve miles. We continued on and at two o'clock fed. We

-arrived at Father Chase's between four and five o'clock. Diantha was

-very glad to see me and burst into tears. My little boy is far beyond

-all my expectations. He is very fat and well formed and has a noble

-countenance. They are both well and I feel to thank my heavenly Father

-for his mercies to them and Father Chase and to his family and may the

-Lord bless them for it, and oh Lord, bless my family and preserve them

-forever. Bless my Diantha and my boy and preserve their lives on the

-earth to bring honor to Thy name and give us a prosperous journey back

-again is the prayer of thy servant William. Amen. At night we had a

-heavy thunder storm. It rained very heavily.

-

-Monday, June 29

-

-The morning is cool and cloudy, the ground very wet. Brother Bickford

-is gone to Nauvoo. Left Father Chase's company about 10:30 a.m. They

-kindly furnished us with bread stuffs sufficient to last us to camp. We

-arrived at Mt. Pisgah and stayed near Father Huntington's.

-

-Tuesday, June 30

-

-This morning in council with President Huntington, Rich and Benson

-until nine o'clock a.m. Took breakfast with Elder Rich and then started

-on. We passed Brothers Woodruff, and Lott and their companies about

-twelve miles from Pisgah. After traveling about twenty-six miles we

-turned onto the big prairie for the night. The weather fine and roads

-good.

-

-

-

-July 1846

-

-Wednesday, July 1

-

-P. P. Pratt passed about six o'clock. We afterwards learned that

-he was going on express to Pisgah to raise the 500 volunteers to go to

-Santa Fee. After traveling about seven miles we rested with Brother

-Weeks and ate breakfast, then went on till two o'clock and stopped to

-feed. We continued on till dark, having traveled about seventeen miles.

-

-Thursday, July 2

-

-Having lost the horses during the night I went back four miles to hunt

-them. I met someone and enquired about them, asking if he had not seen

-them. Went back to camp and ate a little and afterwards found them

-about a mile west. We started about ten o'clock and at sundown passed

-the Indian village and the stream at which we previously camped. We

-camped about two miles west of the Indian village.

-

-Friday, July 3

-

-Started early and went about four miles to a creek where we ate

-breakfast. The day very hot but we traveled about twenty-five miles.

-We met President Young, Heber Kimball, and Dr. Richards going back

-to raise volunteers. They feel that this is a good prospect for our

-deliverance and if we do not do it we are downed. We went on and camped

-near Hiram Clark and took supper with him.

-

-Saturday, July 4

-

-This morning my horses were missing and five from Clark's company

-were missing. I found them a little west of the camp and started on.

-Diantha having eaten nothing this morning I tried to buy some bread but

-could not get it till I got home. I arrived at three o'clock and found

-my little Vilate sick, the rest all well. I went over to Council at

-Captain Allen's tent.

-

-Sunday, July 5

-

-At home all day. Conrad has left and gone to Elder Hyde's. The weather

-is very hot. My traders have got back and brought twenty bushels of

-corn, but only one of wheat.

-

-Monday, July 6

-

-Spent the day fixing wagons. Day very hot. Bishop Whitney called to see

-us. They are getting over the river as fast as possible but it is slow

-work.

-

-Thursday, July 9

-

-Spent the two previous days fixing wagons and today went down to the

-river to see about crossing, etc. Took my family with me.

-

-Friday, July 10

-

-Fixing my wagons, also Saturday unpacked the dry goods wagon and

-repacked it.

-

-Sunday, July 12

-

-Went to the meeting at Elder Taylor's camp. In the evening President

-Young, Kimball and Richards returned. They requested me to go to

-Taylor's to council. I went and tarried till dark, wrote a letter to

-the Quadrille band to meet tomorrow also wrote orders for all the men

-in camp to meet.

-

-Monday, July 13

-

-Went to the general meeting and played with the band and then kept

-minutes. They got three companies of 43 each and half of a fourth

-company. All my teamsters have enlisted. I am now destitute of help.

-Edward Martin is advised to go and leave his family in my charge. I

-have still four yoke of oxen missing and I do not know where to find

-them. Last night James was seized with a fit and is quite unwell today,

-mostly insensible. Vilate Ruth is quite sick and on the whole my

-situation is rather gloomy. The meeting adjourned at five till tomorrow

-at eight, after which the company danced till dark.

-

-Tuesday, July 14

-

-I went over to meeting this morning and told the President my

-situation. He consented for me to go back to my camp to see to things.

-I came back but feel very unwell. Martin's youngest child died at 1:30

-p.m.

-

-Wednesday, July 15

-

-Went with Edward Martin to bury his child on a high bluff south of the

-camp. We buried it between two small oak trees, a little east of them,

-the babe's head to the east. After returning Heber sent word for us to

-cross the creek to the other bluff where Elder Taylor is camped. We

-got some of the cattle together and took part of the wagons over and

-then returned for the remainder. As soon as we got there a message came

-that the President wished the band to go to the village. We accordingly

-started but when we got there we found nobody there and after a little

-trading we returned home.

-

-Thursday, July 16

-

-Hunting my horses to take Diantha to see her father's folks who arrived

-yesterday. In the afternoon we started out and went about three miles

-from here. They appeared very glad to see us. We got home again at dark.

-

-Friday, July 17

-

-Went fishing.

-

-Saturday, July 18

-

-Went to the village to play with the band for the volunteers. They

-danced till near sundown when we returned home.

-

-Sunday, July 19

-

-In the wagon till evening. Sister Farr came to see us. Diantha and I

-went home with her in the evening.

-

-Monday, July 20

-

-In the morning fixing for our concert. Afternoon the band came with

-their wives and we played and danced till dark. President Young made

-some appropriate remarks exhorting the saints to prayer, etc.

-

-Tuesday, July 21

-

-This morning it rained very heavily. Went to council at Elder Pratt's

-camp. The council appointed a council of twelve to preside here, viz.

-Isaac Morley, Geo. W. Harris, James Allred, Thos. Grover, Phineas

-Richards, Herman Hyde, Wm. Peck, Andrew H. Perkins, Henry W. Miller,

-Daniel Spencer, J. H. Hales and John Murdock. I wrote a letter

-informing them of their appointment also instructing them not to let

-any pass over the river unless they could be in time to go to Grand

-Island and cut hay, to watch over the church, establish schools for the

-winter, etc. I spent the remainder of the day at the creek. I asked

-the President what I should do but could get no answer. I have not

-been able to get any satisfaction from any of the council as to what I

-should do and am totally at a loss to know whether to tarry here or go

-on. My provisions are nearly out and my teamsters all gone and nearly

-all the cattle strayed away, and no one to hunt them except James and

-Corbitt and they are sick.

-

-Wednesday, July 22

-

-Fixing a wagon for Margaret and re-loading some wagons.

-

-Thursday, July 23

-

-Unpacking church property. Found considerable of it very much damaged

-with wet. I put it out and dried it well and repacked it. Evening went

-with Diantha to see her folks.

-

-Friday, July 24

-

-Regulating the loading, etc.

-

-Saturday, July 25

-

-Bought 357 pounds of flour at $2.50 per hundred and carried it about

-three hundred yards to my wagons then spent the day fixing wagon

-covers. Evening went to Brother Farr's. About 11:00 a storm arose

-and it soon began to rain heavily and a while after blew a perfect

-hurricane. The thunder was awful and the rain poured in torrents for

-about a half an hour.

-

-Sunday, July 26

-

-This morning the tent is down, wagons drenched and everything looks

-gloomy enough. Scarcely a tent in the camp was left standing and many

-wagon covers torn. A report is circulated that a cow was killed by

-lightning. Much damage is done to wagons, provisions, etc. The cow was

-killed about 200 yards west of my wagons. There was a tent struck also

-but no persons hurt. I went to meeting and heard Benson and Taylor

-preach. Afternoon at my wagons. Evening Bishop Whitney, President Young

-and Kimball called. I made out a bill of goods for them to send east by

-Robert Pierce. They ordered me to go down to the river tomorrow.

-

-Monday, July 27

-

-Loading wagons, packing, etc., preparing to start. Last night I engaged

-Pelatiah Brown as a teamster. We started soon after noon. I drove the

-cows and James, Corbitt and Brown the teams with twelve wagons. We had

-to leave one cow four yoke of oxen and two horses on the ridge, being

-missing. We got down about six o'clock. Bishop Whitney passed and said

-I should not get over the river tomorrow and I suppose we shall have

-to wait some days. James and Corbitt are both sick and discouraged on

-account of having so little help and so many cattle, etc., to look

-after. They have a hard time of it but I can see no prospects of its

-being better.

-

-Tuesday, July 28

-

-James and Corbitt started back to hunt the cattle. I went to the

-village and received $12.00 of Larpey for the cordage I sold to Allen,

-$3.50 is yet my due. I then went and bought some flour of Tanner. While

-we were weighing it a storm arose and it rained and thundered and

-lightninged throughout the day and nearly all night. I have not seen

-more rain fall in a long time.

-

-Wednesday, July 29

-

-Got the balance of the flour making 889 lbs., most of it at $2.50 and

-200 lbs. at $2.00. Afternoon went to the village with Alice, Diantha,

-and Margaret. There saw President Young and Heber. They have just

-bought a pony and some cloth, etc., and seem to have money enough but

-there is none to buy me flour. I yet lack about a ton.

-

-Thursday, July 30

-

-At home all day. Unpacked mother's wagon and found many things wet and

-damaged.

-

-Friday, July 31

-

-Attending to wagons, cattle, etc., all day.

-

-

-

-August 1846

-

-Saturday, August 1

-

-This morning I went to the river to see how soon we could cross and

-learned there was a prospect of our crossing this evening or tomorrow

-morning. I then went back to my camp and we started with the wagons a

-few at a time. My brother James is lame in bed. Pitt is lame. Brown

-is lame and Corbitt nearly spent. About noon we got all the wagons to

-the river and Corbitt returned to take the cattle to grass. I went to

-Larpey's and got the balance of the money then went to Mitchel's to try

-to trade my music box for a cow but did not succeed.

-

-Sunday, August 2

-

-Preparing to cross the river. Pelatiah Brown went swimming all the

-forenoon and when Corbitt asked him to help with the teams he swore he

-would not if Jesus Christ would ask him. I told him if he did not feel

-like helping us he could go somewhere else, I did not want him. He went

-and I am again left without a teamster. I will here say that Brown will

-not work only when he has a mind to and during the last week when James

-and Corbitt and Pitt were all gone he would go to the river swimming

-instead of attending to the cattle and I may as well be without a

-teamster as have a man who will go away in a cramp. About noon we

-crossed three wagons over and kept to work until we had got them all

-over which took us till dark. We had to crowd our wagons together in

-the road just above the river on account of its being stopped up by

-other wagons. We could not get our cattle to grass and they have had

-none since last night, but having a few bushels of corn we gave them

-five ears a piece. After supper I went fishing with Wm. F. Cahoon and

-others until two o'clock but had very poor luck.

-

-Monday, August 3

-

-Started this morning to get our wagons on the prairie. The road is very

-narrow and bad, up steep bluffs and very muddy. It took four yoke of

-oxen to take a very light load. When we had got four of the wagons up

-eight yoke of Bishop Whitney's cattle came to help us and afterwards

-nine yoke of President Young's and Kimball's. We got to the prairie

-about noon and stopped to feed our cattle. I sent on five wagons with

-the teams sent to help us and after feeding about an hour started with

-the remainder. I drove the spare cattle and horses. We got the wagons

-to camp about six o'clock. One of President Young's oxen killed himself

-when going to drink, being so eager he pitched into the creek and broke

-his neck. When we got to camp we were all completely tired. My feet

-were sore and my limbs ached and had to go to bed. We camped on the

-north end of Heber's company. We have left nine head of cattle over the

-river yet and there is little prospect of being able to find some of

-them.

-

-Tuesday, August 4

-

-This morning Heber's company have moved on about two days journey and

-again left me here alone. I loaned C. L. Whitney three yoke of

-oxen to help him through. They are gone to find a place within thirty

-miles of here to winter. I spent the day doing little, being so unwell.

-

-Wednesday, August 5

-

-Moved down a little nearer water. There spent the day fixing Ruth's

-wagon. Corbitt has gone over the river to hunt cattle and in the

-evening returned with one yoke.

-

-Thursday, August 6

-

-Putting covers on Margaret's and mother's wagons, etc. Afternoon

-writing copy of the returns of companies.

-

-Friday, August 7

-

-Spent the forenoon writing copy of return of companies of the

-U. S. army. About noon two of Heber's teamsters came with some

-cattle to help me to the main camp. I left off writing and went to

-putting the wagons in order. While fixing a chicken coop I struck my

-forehead with a hammer which disabled me from work the remainder of the

-day.

-

-Saturday, August 8

-

-This morning we arose about three o'clock and while some took the

-cattle to graze the rest got the wagons loaded, etc., ready to start.

-We got away soon after sunrise. I rode a mule and drove the cows. We

-traveled about nine miles before we came to any water. Here we took the

-teams from the wagons to a spring about a quarter of a mile from the

-road. The cattle seemed tired but one of the teamsters said it was only

-about three miles farther and should soon be there. We concluded to go

-on without stopping to feed. But before we had proceeded far some of

-the cattle gave out, the day being very hot, and before we got to camp

-several yoke gave up entirely and were left on the road and brought

-afterwards. One of the cattle died almost as soon as they took him from

-the wagon, being about a mile from camp. Two or three others were not

-expected to live. When we arrived Heber wanted us to form on his north

-line but we could only get half of our wagons into the space left for

-the whole of them. I then moved over to the south side and formed next

-to D. Russell. We got our tent up but can have no fire until Monday.

-The cattle are so tired we will not use them. I feel about sick myself.

-Heber's camp is formed in a kind of parallelogram, each wagon camped

-in a perfect line with the others. The square in the center is about

-twenty-five rods long and fifteen rods wide.

-

-Sunday, August 9

-

-Writing copy of return of companies of U. S. army all day.

-

-Monday, August 10

-

-Attending to various business about the wagons all day.

-

-Tuesday, August 11

-

-Last night I had a severe chill and felt sick all day mostly with high

-fever. Quite unable to work.

-

-Wednesday, August 12

-

-Quite sick, very bad fever all day.

-

-Sunday, August 16

-

-Since Wednesday have scarcely even been out of bed, but kept with

-raging fever all the time. Twice Heber has rebuked my fever but it has

-returned. Through fear and persuasion of my family I have taken some

-pills and medicine given by Dr. Sprague, but seem to grow worse all the

-time. Today I have been very sick. Towards evening my folks concluded

-to get me out of the wagon into the tent where they had prepared a

-bed. Soon after I got into the tent President Young, Dr. Richards,

-G. A. Smith, Orson Pratt, Lorenzo Young and others called to

-see me. When they had been in a few moments President Young called

-O. P. Rockwell into the tent and the feelings we had on seeing him

-cannot be described. He has been in prison some time but when his trial

-came on there was no one to accuse him and the judge discharged him.

-The brethren all laid hands on me and rebuked my disease in the name of

-the Lord, President Young being mouth. I immediately felt easier and

-slept well all night being the first sleep I had had of any account for

-three days and nights.

-

-Sunday, August 23

-

-During the past week I have gained slowly and have been able to walk

-about some. I, however, feel very weak and broken down.

-

-Monday, August 24

-

-Reading some and fixing a little at my violin. Feel very little better

-but have a better appetite.

-

-Tuesday, August 25

-

-We had a thunder storm last night. I do not feel so well this morning

-but took a walk into the woods. I had a very sick day all day.

-

-Wednesday, August 26

-

-The morning very cool and cloudy. Let T. Corbitt have a pair of shoes.

-

-Thursday, August 27

-

-Diantha was taken very sick and continued for four or five days.

-

-Saturday, August 29

-

-At night I was seized with fever again and very sick.

-

-Sunday, August 30

-

-Had chill and fever, the chill held me four or five days.

-

-

-

-September 1846

-

-Thursday, September 10

-

-I still continue very weak and troubled with pain in stomach, etc.

-President Young and Dr. Richards called and brought me a letter from

-David; also said they had got me employment writing at a dollar a day

-or 3c on every hundred words copying.

-

-Saturday, September 12

-

-Still quite unwell. President Young brought me $8.00 in money, one half

-dollar bogus and soon after Dr. Richards sent me some letters to copy

-which I did.

-

-Tuesday, September 15

-

-This evening I copied a letter to Joseph F. Herring and having no one

-to send it by I took it to council myself. Before I got half way there

-my knees failed me and it was with great difficulty I got there and

-home again. When I got back to Pitt's shanty my spirit failed me for I

-was not aware of my weakness.

-

-Saturday, September 19

-

-Since Tuesday I have scarcely been out of bed, but today I feel

-somewhat better again.

-

-Sunday, September 20

-

-A little better. I have been told that President Young has virtually

-cursed all who have gone to Missouri or those who shall go hereafter.

-

-Monday, September 21

-

-This evening about ten o'clock all the men of the camp were ordered

-up armed to meet in this square forthwith. I got up and after a very

-little while quite a company of the brethren got together. President

-Hales informed them that the President had received a letter from Mr.

-Sarpey informing him that two gentlemen from Missouri had informed him

-confidentially that the Missourians had got out writs for the twelve

-and others and were coming with a large force on the west side of the

-river to attack the camp by surprise, etc. He advised the brethren to

-have their arms clean and their ammunition ready at a moment's warning,

-to pray with their families, keep dogs tied up at nights, etc., etc.

-The company was then dismissed except a guard for the camp.

-

-Tuesday, September 22

-

-This morning the brethren were ordered to meet at the springs below

-here at nine o'clock. At the sound of the drum the brethren met and

-here organized into four battalions, one of artillery, and three

-of infantry. There were about three hundred brethren present. The

-President then stated that he had received a letter from Sarpey

-informing him that two gentlemen, confidentially, from Missouri had

-informed him that the Missourians were collecting with the sheriff

-of Missouri, their head designing to attack the saints, that they

-had writs, etc., for the twelve and others. He had ordered out the

-brethren that they might be ready in case of necessity and advised

-them to organize and be prepared. Markham was elected Colonel over the

-battalions. Hosea Stout, Lieutenant Colonel over the battalions and

-over the first battalions and over the first battalions of infantry.

-John Scott was elected 1st major and major over the artillery. Henry

-Herriman 2nd major to take command of the 2nd battalion of infantry and

-John S. Gleason 3rd major over the 3rd battalion of infantry. After

-organizing the President addressed the companies and then dismissed

-them. It was advised to quit leaving and move the encampment to the

-fort on the river. A number of teams moved this afternoon.

-

-Wednesday, September 23

-

-This morning President Young and many others have moved down to the

-river. Heber told me to wait till the lots were selected and he would

-let me know when to move. My health is improving.

-

-Thursday, September 24

-

-Very cold all day. I did not feel so well. I have been told that Daniel

-H. Wells and William Cutler have arrived in camp and brought a report

-that there has been a battle fought in Nauvoo and some of the brethren

-killed.

-

-Friday, September 25

-

-I learned today that the mob had made it known that they were coming

-to drive out the "Mormons." The Governor sent an officer to raise

-volunteers to disperse the mob, but the mob learning this they came

-sooner than they had calculated. The brethren being apprised of

-the intentions of the mob prepared to meet them as well as their

-circumstances would permit. Some of the new citizens also made

-preparations to join the brethren. They made five cannon shot of an

-old steam boat shaft. They also filled some barrels with powder, old

-iron, etc., which were buried in the pass to the city which could

-be fired by a slow match but this was of no avail as some traitors

-informed the mob of it, hence they did not come into the settled part

-of the city. On Saturday the 12th inst., the mob made their appearance

-being about twelve hundred in number. The brethren and some of the

-new citizens in the whole about one hundred and sixty went to give

-them battle, but many of the new citizens and some of the brethren

-when they saw the numbers of the mob fled and left about one hundred,

-nearly all brethren, to fight the enemy. The mob had pieces of cannon.

-They met near Boscow's store on Winchester street. The cannon of the

-mob were two blocks from the brethren and the other part of rifle men

-one block from them. The mob fired a number of times into Barlow's old

-barn expecting many of the brethren were concealed there but in this

-they were disappointed, the brethren chiefly lying down on the ground

-behind some shelter and fired in that position. They fought one hour

-and twenty minutes when the mob offered terms of compromise which were

-these, that all the "Mormons" should leave the city within five days

-leaving ten families to finish the unsettled business. The brethren

-consented to this inasmuch as they had been well informed that 1,500

-more were coming to join the mob and they had nothing to expect from

-the authorities of the state. Lyman Johnson, one of the twelve, headed

-a party of the mob from Keokuk, Iowa territory. Three of the brethren

-were killed, viz. William Anderson, his son, and Norris, a blacksmith.

-Three others wounded. The mob would not own to any of their party being

-killed but one person saw them put sixteen men into one wagon and

-handled them more like dead persons than wounded. The ground where they

-stood was pretty much covered with blood, so that there is no doubt

-they had many slain or wounded. They had 150 baggage wagons. Esquire

-Wells took command of the brethren and rode to and fro during the whole

-battle without receiving injury, although the balls whistled by him on

-every side. Amos Davis fought bravely. While running across a plowed

-field he stumbled and fell on his left arm which formed a triangle with

-his head. As he fell a cannon ball passed through the angle of his

-arm between that and his head. Hiram Kimball received a slight wound

-with a musket ball on the forehead. The mob fired sixty-two shots with

-the cannon and ten rounds with the muskets making 12,000 musket balls

-only killing three and wounding three. The brethren did not fire so

-much in proportion but did much more execution. Truly, the Lord fights

-the battles of his saints. The cannon of the brethren was not of much

-service, they would not carry more than a quarter of a mile, whereas

-those of the mob would hold well a half a mile. They shot nine balls

-through a small smith shop, one through Wells' barn and one at his

-house but the ball struck the ground in front of his house and glanced

-through the well curb. The mayor of Quincy watched the battle from the

-tower of the temple and owned that history never afforded a parallel.

-The brethren then began to get their families and effects over the

-river where they remain in a suffering and destitute condition until

-wagons and means are sent from the saints to their relief. On the

-Thursday following, the mob, 1,200 strong, entered the city. 'Tis said

-from good authority that such is the distress and sufferings of the

-saints as actually to draw tears from this mob.

-

-Saturday, September 26

-

-Russell told me that he had selected three lots for us and we could go

-as soon as we had a mind to. He saw Heber on the subject. I made up my

-mind to start on Monday for Winter Quarters.

-

-Sunday, September 27

-

-This morning Brother Smithies came with six yoke of Heber's cattle

-and said we must be ready to start in five minutes while he went to

-water his cattle and although we had everything unprepared we were

-ready before he got back. I felt well enough to drive a team. We

-took six wagons down and camped on the same block with Heber in Cape

-Disappointment. James and Pitt went back to wait for Corbitt who was

-herding cows and in the evening returned with three more wagons.

-

-Monday, September 28

-

-Got the balance of the wagons and poles, etc., down. I copied three

-letters for Dr. Richards.

-

-Tuesday, September 29

-

-Corbitt has started down into the country to fetch potatoes, etc.

-

-

-

-November 1846

-

-Sunday, November 1

-

-During the last month several times I have been very sick and then

-again would be somewhat better. I still continue to be feeble and

-unable to work. I have one house nearly finished and shall in a few

-days occupy it. Thomas Corbitt has been down the river to fetch a

-load of corn on shares but President Young told me to take the whole

-of it for which I feel very grateful. I have sent my cattle to the

-rushes to be wintered, having but eight tons of hay although James and

-Corbitt worked from twenty-six to thirty days but Russell and Rolfe

-have contrived to work it into their hands, taking as Rolfe said, half

-of Corbitt's hay for herding my cattle while he was in the hay field.

-I think this is as wrong a piece of business as has been played on me

-through the journey.

-

-

-

-January 1847

-

-_Winter Quarters_

-

-Friday, January 1

-

-Morning at the store. At 2:00 p.m. went with Diantha to her father's

-and partook of a roast turkey for dinner. At 4:00 met the band at the

-Basket Shop and played about an hour and a half. The basket makers

-made each of us a present of a new basket and showed their gratitude

-various ways. At 6:00 met with the band at Father Kimball's and played

-for a party till after one o'clock. President Young and Kimball danced

-considerable and all seemed to feel well.

-

-Saturday, January 2

-

-At the store regulating the books and making out Whitney and Woolley's

-account current, etc. About 2:00 p.m. Sarah came and said her mother

-wanted me. Moroni had fallen into the fire and burned himself very

-badly. I went home and found as she said. All over the left side of

-his head burned, his face very badly burned, large blisters round his

-left eye. I immediately applied some consecrated oil and ordered them

-to keep it on all the time. I then returned to the store. Evening

-President Young came and took his hardware bill, domestic drilling,

-etc. About 8:00 p.m. I went home.

-

-Sunday, January 3

-

-Moroni's face seems much better, all except around his left eye which

-looks very bad. I was at the store all day working at Whitney's account

-current which seems very bad to regulate. Evening Heber, his wife

-Ellen, Sarah Ann and Sister Whitney came in to trade and remained till

-about ten o'clock.

-

-Monday, January 4

-

-At the store all day. Evening waiting on Orson Pratt and Amasa Lyman.

-Paid my tax today, $2.17½ to I. C. Wright.

-

-Tuesday, January 5

-

-At the store all day. Evening the band met at my house.

-

-Wednesday, January 6

-

-At the store all day, the weather extremely cold.

-

-Thursday, January 7

-

-At the store, the weather still colder than yesterday. Evening went to

-Sister Buel's and took supper of turkey. Afterwards went to Leonard's

-and played for them with Hutchinson and Smithies till 12:00.

-

-Friday, January 8

-

-At the store again, the weather still colder. Evening the band met at

-my house and played some.

-

-Saturday, January 9

-

-At the store all day. Quite unwell till 9:00 p.m.

-

-Sunday, January 10

-

-At home mostly all day. About 2:00 p.m. went to Hutchinson's to dinner.

-

-Monday, January 11

-

-At the store all day, the weather more moderate. Margaret and her boy

-doing well. Last night Pitt returned from Missouri.

-

-Tuesday, January 12

-

-This morning Ruth began to feel unwell. I went to the store and

-continued settlements as usual. Brothers Lee and Russell returned

-from Missouri, having obtained change for the checks. About 4:00 p.m.

-President Young and J. D. Lee came to Bishop Whitney's and I

-received in gold $496.17, and in silver $1,080.52 out of three checks

-which Lee took value $2,447.32, the balance to be accounted for

-hereafter. Soon as I was through receiving the money, I was informed

-that my folks had sent for me and I went home soon after, found that

-Ruth had brought forth a son twenty minutes after 5:00 p.m. She had a

-pretty hard time, but feels comfortable as can be expected. The boy is

-named Newel Horace. Evening I met with the band at Johnson's and played

-till about 11:00 p.m. The house was very much crowded and not much room

-to dance, but they kept it up freely.

-

-Wednesday, January 13

-

-This morning Ruth feels more comfortable. At the store all day waiting

-for Lee and Russel to settle. Evening Russel came and I received from

-him in gold $177.50, and in silver $363.19. He also accounted for

-$150.00 paid to Heber and $30.00 to Daniel Russel out of a check value

-$732.53 leaving him deficit $11.84. Spent the evening at home.

-

-Thursday, January 14

-

-At the store paying out a pair of the money, expecting before I made

-final payments to settle with Lee and Egan.

-

-Friday, January 15

-

-Spent an hour with Lee and Egan at my house but did not accomplish

-much towards a settlement. Afterwards at the store paying out money,

-settling, etc., filled bills for Pisgah & Garden Grove.

-

-Saturday, January 16

-

-At the store again paying, settling, etc., all day. The weather very

-cold. My folks doing well.

-

-Sunday, January 17

-

-At home mostly all day.

-

-Monday, January 18

-

-At the store all day, mostly paying money to the soldiers' wives.

-

-Tuesday, January 19

-

-At the store paying money, etc.

-

-Wednesday, January 20

-

-At the store paying money, etc.

-

-Thursday, January 21

-

-At the store paying money, etc.

-

-Friday, January 22

-

-At the store paying money, etc. Evening went with Hutchinson to

-Packer's party and played for the party in the smoke till near midnight.

-

-Saturday, January 23

-

-At the store all day paying money, etc. Evening met with Pitt and

-Hutchinson at the council house.

-

-Sunday, January 24

-

-Headache all day having taken cold last evening. Mostly at home. A few

-hours at the store over the river and back. Night played with Pitt

-awhile.

-

-Monday, January 25

-

-At the store, very busy paying money, etc. Snowed some and is cold.

-Whitney let me have some goods. Evening walked alone.

-

-Tuesday, January 26

-

-At the store till 2:00 p.m. Afterward went with the Quadrille Band to

-the Council House agreeably to previous notice and played for a party

-of men (70's) and their families who had assisted in building the

-house. They danced till about midnight. We had plenty to eat and drink

-through the interview and a very pleasant party.

-

-Wednesday, January 27

-

-At the store again till noon. At 2:00 p.m. at the Council House with

-the Quadrille Band and played for another company of those who had

-assisted in building the house. We had plenty of refreshments and a

-very sociable party as on yesterday. Broke up again about midnight.

-

-Thursday, January 28

-

-At the store till noon, and then at the Council House with the

-Quadrille Band playing for the third party of those who had assisted in

-building the house, together with the poor basket makers.

-

-Friday, January 29

-

-At home and the store. Felt quite unwell.

-

-Saturday, January 30

-

-At the store all day settling and paying money to soldiers' wives.

-

-Sunday, January 31

-

-At home all day. Dined with Diantha, Ruth, Margaret and mother Farr on

-a turkey.

-

-

-

-February 1847

-

-Monday, February 1

-

-At the store all day settling accounts, paying money, etc.

-

-Tuesday, February 2

-

-At the store till noon. Afterwards at the Council House with the

-Quadrille Band playing for Brigham's family generally.

-

-Wednesday, February 3

-

-At the store till noon. Afterwards at the Council House with the

-Quadrille Band to play for a family meeting of the Young family.

-President Brigham Young was quite sick and seemed very low spirited.

-After the meeting had been opened by prayer, the President called on

-his brothers to stand up by him in the center of the room which they

-did according to age. John Young took his place at the head, then

-Phineas, Joseph, Brigham and Lorenzo. The President then called on

-Heber to take his place in the line inasmuch as he had been recognized

-about fifteen years as a member of the Young family. He took his place

-between Joseph and Brigham. The President then said this was the first

-time that father Young's boys had been together in the same capacity

-for a number of years, etc. After a few remarks the remainder of the

-evening was spent by partaking of a good supper and cheerful dancing

-till about two in the morning, when the party broke up in the best of

-spirits and good feeling.

-

-Thursday, February 4

-

-At the store mostly, evening at home.

-

-Friday, February 5

-

-At the store till noon, then with the Quadrille Band to play for the

-Silver Greys till midnight.

-

-Saturday, February 6

-

-At the store all day.

-

-Sunday, February 7

-

-At home.

-

-Monday, February 8

-

-At the store all day.

-

-Tuesday, February 9

-

-At the store till 10:00 a.m. Then went with the Quadrille Band in

-Eldridge's carriage to play round the city, but the weather was so cold

-we could not play much. At 2:00 p.m., met with--

-

-_[No pages from here until April.]_

-

-

-

-April 1847

-

-...into camp from England which will probably detain the camp a few days.

-

-Friday, April 9

-

-Went with the Quadrille Band over the River as the twelve do not

-start for the Horn today. We played in the boat as we crossed, but in

-returning the wind was high, the boat heavily loaded with cattle and

-dangerous crossing.

-

-Saturday, April 10

-

-At home nearly all day.

-

-Sunday, April 11

-

-At home and Farr's. I told Winslow Farr concerning Hosea Stout's

-threats to take my life after the Twelve are gone, etc. He called at

-night on his return from the Council and told me to be on my guard.

-

-Monday, April 12

-

-At home all day. Thomas and James had planted a number of garden seeds

-on Saturday. Today, they are cutting wood and preparing to go to the

-farm tomorrow. I have no hay, neither can I get any for my cows and

-horses.

-

-Tuesday, April 13

-

-At home most of the day. Thomas and James started for the farm. Evening

-went to the store and told Brigham and Heber about Hosea Stout's

-calculations, etc.

-

-Wednesday, April 14

-

-This morning severely pained with rheumatism in my face. At 11:00 a.m.

-Brigham and Dr. Richards came. Brigham told me to rise up and start

-with the pioneers in half an hour's notice. I delivered to him the

-records of the K. of G. and set my folks to work to get my clothes

-together to start with the pioneers. At two o'clock I left my family

-and started in Heber's carriage with Heber and Wm. Kimball and Ellen

-Sanders. Bishop Whitney and Lyman went out with us in another wagon.

-We went about 19 miles and camped on the prairie. After supper Heber

-prayed and we retired to rest.

-

-Thursday, April 15

-

-After eating and prayers by Bishop Whitney, started at half past seven

-and got to the Elk Horn at 11:30. We were all across at 12:00 and there

-we overtook Brigham, G. A. Smith, E. T. Benson and Amasa

-Lyman. We arrived at the pioneers' Camp about 3:00 p.m. This camp is

-about twelve miles from the Elk Horn and about 47 from Winter Quarters.

-I spent the evening with Aaron Farr, Horace Whitney and Jackson Redding.

-

-Friday, April 16

-

-This day is gloomy, windy and cold. About 8:00 a.m. the camp was called

-together, and organized two captains of 100's viz. Stephen Markham

-and A. P. Rockwood were appointed, also five captains of 50's

-and 14 captains of 10's. There are 143 men and boys on the list of

-the pioneer company, three women and Lorenzo Young's two children.

-There are 73 wagons. C. P. Rockwell has gone back to camp with

-J. C. Little. Bishop Whitney, Lyman, Wm. Kimball and J. B.

-Noble returned from here to Winter Quarters. The following is a list of

-all the names of this pioneer company. To wit:

-

-Wilford Woodruff, John S. Fowler, Jacob Burnham, Orson Pratt, Joseph

-Egbert, John N. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, George A. Smith, George

-Wardle, Thomas Grover, Ezra T. Benson, Barnabas L. Adams, Roswell

-Stevens, Amasa Lyman, Sterling Driggs, Albert Carrington, Thomas

-Bullock, George Brown, Willard Richards, Jesse C. Little, Phineas H.

-Young, John Y. Greene, Thomas Tanner, Brigham Young, Addison Everett,

-Truman O. Angel, Lorenzo Young and wife, Bryant Stringham, Albert

-P. Rockwood, Joseph L. Schofield, Luke Johnson, John Holman, Edmund

-Elsworth, Alvarnus Hanks, George R. Grant, Millen Atwood, Samuel Fox,

-Tunis Rappleyee, Harvey Pierce, William Dykes, Jacob Weiler, Stephen H.

-Goddard, Tarlton Lewis, Henry G. Sherwood, Zebedee Coltrin, Sylvester

-H. Earl, John Dixon, Samuel H. Marble, George Scholes, William Henrie,

-William A. Empey, Charles Shumway, Thomas Woolsey, Chancy Loveland,

-Erastus Snow, Andrew Shumway, James Craig, William Wordsworth, William

-Vance, Simeon Howd, Seeley Owen, James Case, Artemas Johnson, William

-A. Smoot, Franklin B. Dewey, William Carter, Franklin G. Losee, Burr

-Frost, Datus Ensign, Franklin B. Stewart, Monroe Frink, Eric Glines,

-Ozro Eastman, Seth Taft, Horace Thornton, Stephen Kelsey, John S.

-Eldredge, Charles D. Barnum, Alma M. Williams, Rufus Allen, Robert T.

-Thomas, James W. Stuart, Elijah Newman, Levi N. Kendall, Francis Boggs,

-David Grant, Heber C. Kimball, Howard Egan, William A. King, Thomas

-Cloward, Hosea Cushing, Robert Byard, George Billings, Edson Whipple,

-Philo Johnson, William Clayton, Appleton M. Harmon, Carlos Murray,

-Horace K. Whitney, Orson K. Whitney, Orrin P. Rockwell, Nathaniel

-Thomas Brown, R. Jackson Redding, John Pack, Francis M. Pomroy, Aaron

-Farr, Nathaniel Fairbanks, John S. Higbee, John Wheeler, Solomon

-Chamberlain, Conrad Kleinman, Joseph Rooker, Perry Fitzgerald, John H.

-Tippets, James Davenport, Henson Walker, Benjamin Rolfe, Norton Jacobs,

-Charles A. Harper, George Woodard, Stephen Markham, Lewis Barney,

-George Mills, Andrew Gibbons, Joseph Hancock, John W. Norton, Shadrach

-Roundy, Hans C. Hanson, Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, John Brown, Mathew

-Ivory, David Powell, (Hark Lay, Oscar Crosby, blacks) Joseph Mathews,

-Gilbroid Summe, John Gleason, Charles Burke, Alexander P. Chessley,

-Rodney Badger, Norman Taylor, (Green Flake, black) Ellis Eames.

-

-There were 72 wagons, 93 horses, 52 mules, 66 oxen, 19 cows, and 17

-dogs, and chickens.

-

-The names of the females in this camp are: Harriet Page Young, Clarissa

-Decker, and Ellen Sanders. The names of the children are Isaac Perry

-Decker Young and Sabisky L. Young, making a total of 148 souls who have

-started to go west of the mountains as pioneers to find a home where

-the saints can live in peace and enjoy the fruits of their labors,

-and where we shall not be under the dominion of gentile governments,

-subject to the wrath of mobs and where the standards of peace can be

-raised, the Ensign to nations reared and the kingdom of God flourish

-until truth shall prevail, and the saints enjoy the fulness of the

-gospel.

-

-The following are the names of the captains of 50's as appointed at

-this organization, viz. Addison Everett, Tarlton Lewis, James Case,

-John Pack and Shadrack Roundy. The captains of 10's are as follows:

-

-Wilford Woodruff, Ezra T. Benson, Phineas H. Young, Luke Johnson,

-Stephen H. Goddard, Charles Shumway, James Case, Seth Taft, Howard

-Egan, Appleton M. Harmon, John S. Higbee, Norton Jacobs, John Brown,

-Joseph Mathews. For the names of the guard and the gun division see

-under date of April 30th.

-

-Stephen Markham was appointed the Captain of the Guard and ordered to

-select out of the camp, fifty men for guard, such as he had confidence

-in who are to be considered as a standing guard, to attend to the

-wagons each night, twelve of them to stand at a time, and to have

-two sets each night, that is, 12 each watch to stand half the night.

-In cases where the horses and cattle are tied some distance from the

-wagons at night, an extra guard is to be selected from the balance of

-the company or camp, the standing guard not being permitted to leave

-the immediate neighborhood of the wagons. After the organization was

-over, I wrote a letter to Diantha, and put it into the hands of Bishop

-Whitney, together with the one I received yesterday from father and

-I. McEwan, also the one from Ellen to James. Up to 12:00 a.m. I had

-no place to put my trunk and clothing, and did not know what to do

-with them. However, soon after Heber told me to put them in Appleton

-M. Harmon's wagon, which was done. At 2:00 p m. the camp started out

-to proceed on the journey. I bid farewell to to Bishop Whitney and

-his brother Lyman and son Joshua, who all returned from this place,

-also Wm. H. Kimball and Joseph B. Noble. We traveled about three miles

-and encamped in a line about six hundred yards from timber, where

-there is plenty of cottonwood and some rushes. This night I slept

-with Philo Johnson, but having only one quilt, and the night severely

-cold, I suffered much, and took a very bad cold. The country in the

-neighborhood of the Elk Horn is one of the most beautiful I ever saw.

-The bluffs on the east are nicely rolling and beautifully lined with

-timber, and some very nice cedar groves. From these bluffs a little

-above the ferry you can see the meanderings of the Platte River, and

-the beautiful level bottom on the north of it, about fifteen miles wide

-for many miles up the river. The Horn is a beautiful river about 150

-feet wide and about four feet deep.

-

-Saturday, April 17

-

-This morning the weather is severely cold, with a strong wind from the

-north and northwest. We started out at nine o'clock and traveled till

-near 12:00 the distance being about seven miles. We camped close by a

-cottonwood grove, and the brethren fell hundreds of them to feed their

-teams and save corn. There is a small lake close by but the water is

-not good and the brethren go to the river about a half a mile. At 5:00

-p.m. the camps were called together and organized in military order as

-follows:

-

-Brigham Young, Lieutenant General.

-

-Stephen Markham, Colonel.

-

-John Pack and Shadrack Roundy, Majors.

-

-The captains of 10's to be captains of 10's in this order, except John

-Pack, who being appointed major, Appleton M. Harmon was appointed

-captain in his stead.

-

-Thomas Bullock, clerk of the camp. Thomas Tanner captain of the cannon

-with the privilege of choosing eight men to manage it in case of

-necessity. The President then said: "After we start from here, every

-man must keep his loaded gun in his hand, or in the wagon where he

-can put his hand on it at a moment's warning. If they are cap locks,

-take off the cap and put on a little leather to keep wet and etc. out.

-If flint locks, take out the priming and fill the pan with twine or

-cotton," etc.

-

-The wagons must keep together when traveling, and not separate as they

-have previously done, and every man to walk beside his own wagon, and

-not leave it only by permission. A while before evening one of the

-trader's wagons came from the Pawnee village, loaded with furs and

-peltry, and camped about one quarter of a mile below us. At night Eames

-and Hanson played some on their violins. All peace and quietness. At

-night I slept with Egan in Heber's wagon, Heber being gone to sleep

-with President Young.

-

-Sunday, April 18

-

-This morning I wrote a letter for Heber to his wife Vilate, which was

-sent by Brother Ellis Eames who has concluded to go back on account of

-poor health, spitting blood, etc. He started back with the trader's

-wagon about eight o'clock a.m. The wind this morning east and southeast

-and very cold, with a slight shower of snow. At 10:00 a.m. seven more

-traders' wagons came in and stopped about one quarter of a mile below

-us, soon after six mules loaded with robes and furs. These traders

-say they have come from the Pawnee village in two days. Brother

-Roundy got some Buffalo meat from them and gave me a little, which

-I thought tasted very good. I commenced writing Heber's journal and

-wrote considerable. He wants me to write his journal all the journey.

-I also wrote considerable in this book. Afternoon the weather more

-moderate and pleasant, the wind has changed near south and the sun

-shines. I walked with Horace Whitney to the river which is about a

-half a mile. At 4:30 p.m. father James Case was cutting a cottonwood

-tree to brouse his horses, and just as it fell the wind struck it and

-threw it directly contrary to the direction he intended it to fall. The

-consequence was, one of the limbs struck an ox on the neck and knocked

-him down. His right eye was knocked down in the socket out of sight.

-The ox doesn't seem seriously hurt otherwise. About 10 minutes after it

-was done, the eye turned back to its place, and the ox seems to have

-sustained little injury. At 5:00 p.m., the officers of the camp met

-with President Young, and he told the order for traveling and camping

-hereafter, which was communicated to the companies by the captains of

-10's as follows:

-

-At 5:00 in the morning the bugle is to be sounded as a signal for

-every man to arise and attend prayers before he leaves his wagon. Then

-cooking, eating, feeding teams, etc., till seven o'clock, at which time

-the camp is to move at the sound of the bugle. Each teamster to keep

-beside his team, with his loaded gun in his hands or in his wagon where

-he can get it in a moment. The extra men, each to walk opposite his

-wagon with his loaded gun on his shoulder, and no man to be permitted

-to leave his wagon unless he obtains permission from his officer. In

-case of an attack from Indians or hostile appearances, the wagons to

-travel in double file. The order of encampment to be in a circle with

-the mouth of the wagon to the outside, and the horses and stock tied

-inside the circle. At 8:30 p.m. the bugle to be sounded again at which

-time all to have prayers in their wagons and to retire to rest by nine

-o'clock. Tonight I went to bed about seven-thirty o'clock suffering

-severely with pain in my head and face. I slept with Philo Johnson.

-

-Monday, April 19

-

-At 5:00 a.m., at the sound of the bugle I arose, my face still paining

-me very badly. After eating breakfast, I started out on foot, before

-the wagons started, with my rifle on my shoulder. At 7:15 the wagons

-began to move and at 7:30 were all formed in double file and proceeded

-on. After traveling about eight miles we arrived at a number of small

-lakes, where were many ducks. A number of the brethren shot at them and

-killed several. At 1:15 p.m. we arrived at a bend in the river where a

-small stream runs around an island.

-

-We stayed here to feed awhile, having traveled about fifteen miles

-mostly a western course with the wind south. The roads very good and

-the country very level on these flat bottoms of the Platte river

-which bottoms appear to be from ten to fifteen miles wide. Soon

-after the camp was formed, O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding, and

-J. C. Little came in from Winter Quarters. They arrived at 2:10.

-They have found Dr. Richard's mare which was lost east of the Elk

-Horn and brought her to camp. They brought me a line from Diantha

-and one from Ruth and Margaret. In the last was a very gentle piece

-of information which has caused me to reflect much, and proves to me

-that Ruth and Margaret's virtue and integrity have for the last year

-been far superior to mine. In my letter to them I requested them to

-attend to family prayer in my absence, a thing which I have neglected

-since leaving Nauvoo. They informed me that they had done that when I

-was at home but unknown to me, and they had then, and still continue

-to bear me up before their Heavenly Father. Oh, what integrity, what

-faithfulness. I feel unworthy to possess two such treasures, but still

-feel to try to reward them for it, and may my Father in heaven bless

-them, and all my family and let his angels guard them, and me during

-my absence that we may all be permitted to meet again and enjoy each

-other's society in this world for many years to come, and eternal

-in the world to come. O! Lord, grant this prayer of thine unworthy

-servant, and fill my family with peace and union, and open a way that

-they may have the necessaries and comforts of life, and Thy name shall

-have the praise, even so, amen.

-

-I received by Porter, some few fish hooks and lines, a ball of fish

-line and three pencils, but no small hooks nor knives or wafers. At

-twenty minutes after 3:00 p.m. the wagons began to move again, in the

-same order as this morning and traveled until 6:00 p.m. when we arrived

-at a very pretty open view of the Platte river, and the encampment was

-formed in a semi-circle on its banks, having traveled since noon, about

-five miles, and in the whole day 20 miles, over the same kind of dry,

-level, sandy bottom. The river here appears to be about a mile wide

-but very shoal. There is not much timber where we are camped, and the

-water is pretty muddy. I walked some this afternoon in company with

-Orson Pratt and suggested to him the idea of fixing a set of wooden cog

-wheels to the hub of a wagon wheel, in such order as to tell the exact

-number of miles we travel each day. He seemed to agree with me that it

-could be easily done at a trifling expense. After the encampment was

-formed, I went to Brother Luke Johnson and asked him to draw my tooth

-which has pained me so much for a long time. While I was speaking to

-him Stephen Markham came up, and wanted him to take his team and the

-Revenue Cutter the name by which the leather boat is called back about

-two miles, as they designed to seine in one of the lakes. Brother Luke

-Johnson drives the team which draws the boat and rides in the boat as

-in a wagon. I concluded I would go and watch them fish and started out

-on foot. I overtook Markham and John S. Higbee and in our conversation

-I mentioned to Brother John S. Higbee the same idea I had advanced to

-Orson Pratt, and he also seemed to coincide fully. After arriving at

-the lake they launched the boat and made three hauls. They only caught

-a snapping turtle, four small turtles, one duck, two small cat fish,

-and two creek suckers. They then concluded to return and I started on

-foot again with two rifles to carry. I got back to camp before they

-overtook me and being perfectly tired and very footsore, went to bed,

-but had no rest on account of the severe pain in my head and face.

-

-Tuesday, April 20

-

-Arose at 5:30, my head and face very bad indeed. I ate but little

-breakfast, although we had a couple of ducks and a snipe. We started

-out at 7:30, the morning pleasant except a strong west wind. At 9:15

-arrived at Shell creek, which is about six or eight feet wide, and a

-poor bridge over it, but all the wagons got well over. This is about

-five miles from where we camped last night. We then passed through a

-small grove of timber, and entered again upon the wide, open prairie

-bottom. At 11:30 we stopped beside a small slough or lake to feed and

-eat, etc., being five miles from Shell creek. While stopping here,

-three deer passed about half a mile west of the wagons. O. P.

-Rockwell and Thomas Brown chased them on horses four or five miles, but

-did not succeed in taking any of them. The wind has fallen considerably

-and it is very warm and dusty. At 1:00 p.m. started again, the horse

-teams taking the lead, traveled about ten miles farther and encamped

-near a cotton wood grove on the banks of the river. The encampment was

-formed about half past five. Tanner's bellows and anvil were set up and

-a number of tires set before dark.

-

-John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, S. Markham, and some others, started

-ahead of the camp about noon, and went about two miles farther than

-this place to a lake with the boat and seine. They took over 200 very

-nice fish, and arrived with them about the time the camp was formed.

-The fish were distributed around the camp according to the number of

-persons in each wagon, generally two to a wagon, and the brethren

-enjoyed a good supper on fish. I went to the river and washed my feet

-which were very dusty and sore. I also washed my socks as well as I

-could in cold water without soap. After Brother Luke Johnson had got

-through distributing fish, I went and asked him to draw my tooth. He

-willingly agreed and getting his instruments, I sat down in a chair,

-he lanced the gum, then took his nippers and jerked it out. The whole

-operation did not take more than one minute. He only got half the

-original tooth, the balance being left in the jaw. After this my head

-and face pained me much more than before. I ate but little supper and

-then lay down, but could not sleep for pain till near morning. The

-evening was very calm and pleasant.

-

-Wednesday, April 21

-

-Arose at 5:00, my face easier, but swollen and my gums raw. Took

-breakfast on fish and coffee, but ate no bread, it being very dry and

-hard. I could not bear to put it in my mouth. At seven started on

-foot; the ox teams being gone ahead. Some appearances of rain, and a

-slight shower fell. Wind northeast and pretty cool. At ten minutes to

-nine an Indian rode up to the first wagon and appeared very friendly.

-Soon after six or eight others came running on foot. They came from

-the timber about a mile to the left. At 10:00 we arrived at a fork in

-the road, the one on the left leading to the new Pawnee village, and

-the one to the right leaving the village some distance to the south. A

-consultation was held by President Young with father Case relative to

-the roads crossing the river, etc., when it was concluded to take the

-right hand road. We proceeded accordingly and at 12:00 came in sight

-of the new Pawnee village, in an open spot on the south bank of the

-Loop Fork, between two bodies of timber. The village appeared to be

-about three quarters of a mile south of the road we were on. At 12:30

-we were opposite the village, and could then see distinctly upwards

-of 100 lodges set pretty close together, and appeared to be ranged in

-several lines, and set in good order. We proceeded until we arrived at

-a long narrow lake by the side of the timber and near to the river. At

-1:00 p.m. the encampment was formed on the bank of the lake and a guard

-instantly placed at the passes, as many of the Indians had followed us,

-although they had to wade the river, but it is very shoal. One of the

-Indians presented several certificates from persons who had previously

-traveled through their village, all certifying that the Grand Chief of

-the Pawnees was friendly disposed, and they had made him presents of

-a little powder, lead, salt, etc. Heber gave them a little tobacco,

-and a little salt. President Young gave to the chief, some powder,

-lead, salt and a number of the brethren gave a little flour each. The

-old chief, however, did not seem to think the presents sufficient,

-and said he did not like us to go west through their country, he was

-afraid we should kill their buffalo and drive them off. Brother Shumway

-told him we did not like buffalo, but this does not appear to give

-him much satisfaction. However, there was no appearance of hostility.

-In fact, all that came to camp seemed highly pleased to shake hands

-with our brethren and would run from one side to another so as not

-to miss one. A number of the squaws were on the opposite side of the

-lake with mattocks digging roots. Brother Shumway says there are

-about twelve thousand of the Pawnees in this neighborhood, and it is

-reported that there are five thousand warriors. We did not see many of

-them. Larpy is at their village trading, and it is uncertain whether

-he will endeavor to use an influence for us or against us. We have no

-fear, however, because their only object appears to be plunder, and it

-is the calculation to be well prepared by night and day. During the

-resting hour I spent the time writing in my journal. At 2:15 p.m. the

-ox teams started out again and the horse teams soon after. The weather

-had been calm and pleasant for a few hours, but about 2:00 or a little

-before, some heavy clouds began to gather, and thunder was heard at a

-distance. About 2:30 the rain began to descend heavily, accompanied by

-heavy peals of thunder and vivid lightning which continued till about

-4:00. A strong north wind blew up, the rain and thunder ceased and the

-weather grew very cold. We traveled till 5:30 and the encampment was

-formed on the Loop Fork of the Platte river. After the encampment was

-formed and teams turned out, the brethren were all called together and

-some remarks made by President Young, advising them to have a strong

-guard round the camps tonight. He called for volunteers to stand guard

-and about 100 volunteered amongst whom were all the twelve except Dr.

-Richards. This guard was divided into two companies of fifty each, one

-company to stand the first half the night, and the remainder the last

-half. Those of the twelve who stood took the first watch till 1:00.

-Brigham and Heber both stood on guard. Out of the companies a party

-were stationed as a picket guard some distance from the camp, the

-balance stood near the camp. The night was very cold, with a strong

-wind from the northeast, and in the middle of the night, it rained

-considerable. Our course this morning was about west. This afternoon,

-northwest. We are now within three miles from the bluffs on the north.

-We have traveled today about twenty miles, the roads being good and

-very level. The grass here is short but looks good. The buffalo grass

-is very short and curly like the hair on a buffalo robe. The spring

-grass doesn't seem to be as early here as at the Elk Horn, and the last

-year's growth not being burnt off, will be rather a disadvantage to

-the spring companies. I have noticed all the way on this bottom from

-the Elk Horn, that the ground is full of wild onions which appear far

-richer and larger than any wild onions I ever saw. I have no idea that

-corn would grow here for the land is very dry and loose and sandy, and

-appears poor. The country is beautiful and pleasing to the eye of the

-traveler, although you can only see one kind of scenery for several

-days.

-

-Thursday, April 22

-

-Arose soon after 5:00 a.m., my face very painful again caused by the

-cold. There has been no trouble from the Indians and all is peace and

-safe. The cannon was prepared for action, and stood all night just

-outside the wagons. There was considerable joking this morning on

-account of two of the picket guard having their guns stolen and Colonel

-Markham having his hat stolen. The owners were found asleep while on

-guard and those who found them so, took their guns to be a warning

-to them, but it is difficult for men to keep awake night after night

-after traveling 20 miles in the day, taking care of teams, cooking,

-etc. At 7:30 the camp proceeded again. I went ahead on foot. About one

-quarter of a mile from where we camped is one of the prettiest beds

-of nettle I have seen for some time. Our road this morning lay beside

-pretty heavy timber, and about a westerly course. After traveling two

-miles, crossed Looking Glass creek, a small stream about a rod wide,

-but easily forded. I still went ahead on foot and at 9:45 sat down on

-an Indian grave, on top of a mound from whence is a splendid view of

-the surrounding country for many miles. From southeast to southwest you

-can see the course of the Loop Fork for a number of miles. Northwest a

-level prairie about four miles and then a range of timber. The bluffs

-on the north about seven miles distant, and on the east a level prairie

-for about twenty miles. At this place there is a range of what appears

-to be mounds about a quarter of a mile long, running from northeast to

-southwest. At 12:15 we arrived on the east bank of Beaver River, having

-traveled about ten miles. This stream is about twenty to twenty-five

-feet wide; swift, clear water and pleasant tasting. The banks are

-tolerably well lined with timber. Here we stopped to feed. Some of the

-brethren went to fix the fording place a little, the banks are steep

-on each side and the water a little over two feet deep. At 2:00 p.m.

-started again, the ox teams first. When passing the river a number of

-the brethren stood on the west bank with a long rope which was hooked

-to the wagon tongue and they assisted the teams up the bank. The wagon

-I rode in crossed at two minutes after 2:00, and in a little while all

-were safely over. We proceeded on till half past five, when we arrived

-at the Pawnee Missionary station which is about seven miles from Beaver

-River. The country this afternoon was more uneven, there being many

-steep ditches and rises. The grass appears longer and there is much

-rosing weed. The soil looks black and no doubt would yield a good crop

-of corn. This missionary station was deserted last fall, and Brother

-Miller's company being camped here, they carried the missionaries

-and their effects to Bellview on the Missouri river. This is a very

-beautiful place for a location. On the north and west it is surrounded

-by bluffs, on the south by the Loop Fork at about three quarters of a

-mile distance. On the east by descending prairie. The Plumb Creek runs

-through it, and but a few rods from the missionaries' house. Its banks

-are lined with a little timber. There is also a steep bank on each

-side, and between these banks in the valley which is a few rods wide,

-the Sioux have practiced coming down when they have made their attacks

-on the Pawnees. The ravine is certainly well calculated to shelter

-an enemy from observation when designing to make a sudden attack.

-There are a number of good log houses here, considerable land under

-improvement enclosed by rail fences, and a good quantity of hay and

-fodder, large lots of iron, old and new, several plows and a drag. All

-apparently left to rot. There are also two stoves, etc. The government

-station is a quarter of a mile below, or south where father Case lived

-as government farmer and received $300.00 a year for it, but when Major

-Harvey learned at the last payday, which was last November, that father

-Case had joined the "Mormons" he very politely dismissed him from the

-government service. The Sioux came down sometime ago and burned up

-the government station houses, blacksmith shop and everything, but

-the missionary station they did not touch. This place according to

-my account is 134 miles from Winter Quarters, and a lovely place to

-live. Before dark the President called the camp together, and told

-them they might use the fodder and hay for their teams, but forbade

-any man carrying anything away, even to the value of one cent. He said

-he had no fears of the Pawnees troubling us here, but we had better be

-prepared lest the Sioux should come down and try to steal horses. A

-guard was selected and a picket guard to watch the ravine to the north.

-The cannon was also prepared and Brother Tanner drilled his men to use

-it till dark. At 9:00 p.m. I retired to rest and slept well through the

-night. The variation of the compass is about 12 degrees at this place.

-

-I again introduced the subject of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to

-tell the distance we travel, describing the machinery and time it would

-take to make it, etc., several caught, the idea and feel confident of

-its success.

-

-Friday, April 23

-

-Arose this morning at 5:30, my face bad again through sleeping cold.

-The air chilly but a very pleasant morning. President Young, Heber and

-others are gone to the river to ascertain where we can best ford it.

-There is a ford a little distance from here, and another about four

-miles above, but the latter is in the neighborhood of another band of

-the Pawnees and they are desirous to avoid it if possible. They started

-out on horseback at a quarter to eight and the camp remained here till

-they returned. Some are working, some fixing wagons, etc. The day is

-now warm and very pleasant. I went to Plumb creek and washed my feet

-which are very sore. The brethren returned at a quarter to 12:00 and

-reported that we would have to go about four miles and there build

-a raft. Tarlton Lewis was appointed to superintend the building of

-the raft. President Young then stated in regard to the plows, iron,

-etc., which lies around here, for the government is owing father Case

-considerable for services, and he has the privilege of taking this for

-his pay. He will do it and if the brethren want the iron, etc., they

-can have by hauling it, one half, and father Case the other half, and

-he (Case) will write and inform them what he has done. I started on

-foot about 12:00 and viewed the ruins of buildings, etc., which the

-Sioux have burned. There is a large quantity of good bar iron, and a

-number of plows, which the brethren put into their wagons on the terms

-proposed by father Case. Two miles from Plumb creek, passed another

-creek not very good to ford, although it is narrow but sandy. Two miles

-farther arrived at the intended crossing place, but the prospect looks

-dull for rafting on account of sandbars and very rapid current. My feet

-were so sore and blistered I could not walk for some time after I got

-there. The sun is very hot and no wind. At 3:20 the wagons arrived and

-prepared to ford the river. Luke Johnson was the first who went over,

-leaving the boat on this side, and although he had no load, nor even a

-wagon box, it was with difficulty he got over. Orson Pratt started next

-with a part of his load. When he had got in about a rod, his horses

-began to sink some in the sand and they could not draw. A number of the

-brethren jumped in and lifted at the wheels, etc., till they got him to

-the bar in the middle. He then started for the other bar and about half

-way across his horses sank in the quicksand so badly that one of them

-fell down. A number of the men immediately went to his assistance and

-took them off the wagon and led them across to the sand bar. President

-Young went over in the boat and took the loading out of the carriage

-into the boat. The carriage was drawn to the sand bar by men with a

-long rope. The brethren then assisted Elder Woodruff's team over in

-the same way, also John Pack's and Wordsworth's. President Young then

-ordered that no more wagons should go over that way, but move up the

-river about a quarter of a mile and camp until morning. The camp was

-formed about 5:30 p.m. The river is not more than two feet deep, but

-there are a great many beds of quicksand which are dangerous to teams,

-and calculated to shake a wagon to pieces. They make a noise when

-crossing the quicksands as if they were going over a stone pavement.

-

-The country here is indeed beautiful and appears rich, but there is

-very little timber. After crossing Plumb creek, there is plowed land

-for nearly two miles on the right but not fenced. It appears to have

-yielded a good crop of corn. The land on the left to the river is level

-and beautiful for a farm. We are now camped about a quarter of a mile

-from the old Pawnee village on a splendid table of land, level and

-pleasant as heart could desire. It is not much over three quarters of

-a mile wide and shielded on the north by beautiful rolling bluffs and

-on the south by the Loop Fork of the Platte. From this bank can be seen

-the timber on the banks of the main Platte, the bottom from here to it

-appears very level. There is something romantic in the scenery around

-here, and the prospect cannot well be exaggerated.

-

-In the evening the captains of tens were called together and a vote

-taken to build two light rafts, Tarlton Lewis to superintend one and

-Thomas Woolsey the other. As many loads of property as can be carried

-over in the boat will be done, and the teams with empty wagons will

-ford it. It is said that by going over several times with teams the

-sand will pack down and be good crossing, several of those who have

-been across believe this from today's experience and they calculate to

-give it a fair trial tomorrow. Amongst the rest of those who waded the

-river to help the wagons over, Brother Kimball joined and assisted one

-team to the other side, and then returned in the boat with President

-Young.

-

-Saturday, April 24

-

-Arose soon after 5:00. Morning fine, but cool. One of Phineas Young's

-horses was choked to death last night. It appears he was tied to a

-stake with a chain near a steep hole in the ravine, and either stepped

-back or lay down and rolled over into the hole, and the chain being

-short he was choked to death, having no power to extricate himself.

-This is a grievous loss for there are no more teams in the camp than

-what are absolutely necessary, and in fact, there are hardly enough to

-get along very comfortably. By request of Brother Kimball, I went up to

-the old Indian village immediately after breakfast to take a view of

-it, and write a description as near as circumstances would permit which

-is as follows:

-

-This village is situated on the north bank of the Loop Fork of the

-Nebraska or Platte river, about four miles southwest of the mission

-station on Plumb creek and 138 miles from Winter Quarters. The Pawnee

-nation is divided into four bands. The names of the bands are the Grand

-Pawnee, the Loop, the Tappas, and the Republican. When the nation

-settled in this region the Grand Pawnees and the Tappas located on the

-west bank of Plumb creek and the Loops located on this spot and were

-afterwards joined by the Republicans. When the Sioux made war on the

-Indians at the first settlement and destroyed their village, the Grand

-Chief saw that his party were unable to cope with their hostile foes

-alone, and it was concluded that the four bands should locate together

-on this spot, but notwithstanding this, the Sioux succeeded in burning

-this village last summer during the absence of the Pawnees when on

-their hunt. They rebuilt most of it again, but last fall the Sioux

-made another attack and burned the whole village except one dwelling

-or lodge, which is not harmed. There are three or four others but

-partially destroyed, the rest are entirely demolished and levelled with

-the ground. The Pawnees then moved to the place where we passed them a

-few days ago, and are dwelling in their lodges made of hides, etc. The

-name of the Grand Chief is Shefmolan, who is also the superior chief

-of the Pawnee band. All documents or treaties made by the nation are

-signed by this chief and the nation is then bound by them. The head

-chief of the Loup band is named Siscatup, the other chiefs, father Case

-did not recollect their names. From him I obtained this information.

-There is a part of the Loup band on the main Platte, some distance from

-here, who have never yielded to the government treaties, but stand out

-from the rest of the nation and spend their time mostly in plundering

-other tribes as well as travelers. They frequently go as far as the

-Cherokee nation to rob and plunder. All the Pawnee nation are noted for

-their love of plundering travelers of their horses and mules, but not

-often anything else.

-

-On the east and west of the village is a beautiful level bench of

-prairie extending many miles, and to the ridge of bluffs which run

-east and west touching within a mile of the village. On the top of the

-bluffs can be seen a number of Indian graves. To the northwest about

-a mile distant, and at the foot of the bluffs is an extensive corn

-field, the stalks still standing. On the south is a beautiful view of

-the nice level prairie extending to the main branch of the Platte, the

-timber on the banks can be faintly, but plainly seen. The Loup Fork

-is probably about 400 yards wide at this place and very shoal, except

-a narrow channel near the shore on this side which is probably three

-feet deep. The bottom is mostly quicksand and not safe fording. About

-half the surface from bank to bank is sand bars which appear above the

-surface of the water mostly on the south side. There are several small

-islands and a little timber to the right or west. The village occupies

-a space of about 40 acres of land, and is mostly enclosed by a ditch

-about five feet wide, and a bank inside the ditch about four feet high,

-running from the bank of the river around the village till it again

-strikes the bank, and when perfect, has formed a good fortification. A

-number of lodges are built outside the ditch on the east and on account

-of want of room inside when the bands from the other village joined

-them. The village is composed of about 200 houses or lodges varying

-in size but all similarly constructed, as appears from the remnants

-of some left standing. While I take this sketch, I sit in the one

-left unharmed, which it is said was owned by the chief Siscatup, and

-as the lodges are all constructed in the same manner, only differing

-in size, I will endeavor to describe the way in which this is built.

-In the first place, the earth is dug out a little, slanting to the

-depth of about 18 inches in the form of a perfect circle about 44 feet

-in diameter. This forms the floor of the dwelling. Then there are 17

-crotch posts let into the floor in a direction slanting outward so that

-the top of the crotch is about perpendicular with the outside of the

-circle, the foot being set about 18 or 20 inches from the base of the

-circle. These posts are arranged at about equal distances from each

-other around the circle. In the crotches, poles are laid across from

-crotch to crotch, and are sufficiently high for the tallest man to

-stand upright under them. At the distance of 18 or 20 inches from the

-outside of the circle are many smaller poles let into the surface of

-the ground, on an average of about a foot apart and leaning inward so

-that the top of the poles rest on the cross pieces which are supported

-by the crotches. The space between the foot of these poles and the edge

-of the circle forms a bench for seats entirely around the house, and

-there is room sufficient for more than a hundred men to seat themselves

-on it very comfortably. On the outside of these last mentioned poles

-are laid a number of still smaller poles horizontally from bottom to

-top from about 9 inches to a foot apart, these are lashed fast to

-the upright poles by strings made of bark. On the outside of these

-is laid a thick layer of long prairie grass and occasionally lashed

-through to the upright poles also. The whole is then covered with

-earth about two feet in thickness at the bottom and gradually thinner

-towards the top. This forms an enclosure when completed around the

-whole area about seven feet high, a place being left sufficiently large

-for the door. The next process is to place erect ten upright poles or

-crotches, very stout, being about a foot in diameter about seven feet

-nearer the center of the circle than the first crotches. These are set

-perpendicular, deep in the ground and also arranged at about equal

-distances from each other, and form a strong foundation which is the

-design and use to which they are appropriated. On the top of these

-pillars are also horizontal poles laid strong and firm, the top of the

-pillars being about eleven or twelve feet above the floor. Long small

-poles are then laid from the outside horizontal poles over the inner

-ones and sufficiently long to meet at the top within about two feet

-of each other, forming a hole for the smoke from the fire to ascend

-through. These long poles are laid pretty close together all around

-the building, and across them smaller ones are lashed with bark as in

-the first instance, only they are much closer together. The operation

-of lashing on a layer of long grass and finally covering the whole

-with earth, completes the roof of the building. The door or entrance

-is a long porch formed by placing in the earth four upright posts or

-crotches far enough apart to extend outwards from the circle, about 18

-or 20 feet. There are four upright crotches on each side the porch and

-in the crotches, poles are laid horizontally as in the other parts of

-the building. The process of lashing sticks across, then a thick coat

-of long grass and lastly a stout coat of earth, is the same as the

-other parts of the building. The roof of the porch is flat and is about

-seven feet high and six feet wide. The porch is dug down about half

-as deep as the main building, making a short step at the mouth of the

-porch and another one at the entrance into the house. The fire has been

-made in the center of the house directly under the hole in the roof.

-

-At the farther side of the building, exactly opposite the porch, is

-a projection of sod left about a foot from the outside of the circle

-which is said to have been the seat of the chief, and over which hung

-his medicine bag and other implements.

-

-The crotches are arranged so that there is a free passage to the center

-of the hall from the porch one standing on each side at the entrance

-about six feet apart and the others appear to be arranged from them.

-The smaller houses have not so many pillars as this one. Some have

-eight in the center and sixteen outside the circle. Others have four

-in the center and ten outside. The entrances are also smaller in

-proportion, but all are constructed on the same principle. It looks a

-little singular to note that nearly all the entrances to these lodges

-front to the southeast, except in one or two instances where they front

-in other directions for lack of room. It is probable that this is done

-to avoid the effects of the severe cold northwest winds so prevalent in

-winter.

-

-Adjacent to each lodge is a stable or pen, which has been designed for

-keeping horses in. These are mostly left unharmed. They are constructed

-by placing poles upright in the ground from two to three inches in

-diameter as close together as possible and about ten feet high. About

-five or six feet above the ground cross poles are laid horizontally,

-and each of the upright poles are firmly lashed to the cross poles by

-strips of bark, so as to make them firm and secure them from being

-moved out of their place. The stables are mostly built square, with

-a door left on one side sufficiently large to admit a horse. There

-are some circular stables but not so many as the square ones. The

-horses appear to have been penned in by placing loose poles across the

-doorway, for there is no other sign of a door visible.

-

-Around each lodge there are also several cachets where corn and other

-necessities are deposited. The cachets are large holes dug in the

-ground, or rather under the ground, the entrance being only just large

-enough to admit a common sized man. They are made pretty much after the

-shape of a large demijon. The cachets are generally about six feet high

-inside and about fifteen feet in diameter; there is a gradual slope

-from the mouth to the extreme corner and a little bowing, which forms

-the roof. The surface of the earth above, at the mouth, is about two

-and a half or three feet deep. Some of these are said to be capable of

-holding a hundred bushels of corn, and when filled there is a thick

-coat of grass laid on the top and the mouth then filled up nicely with

-earth, and when finished a stranger would not have the least suspicion

-that there was a storehouse full of corn under his feet.

-

-I finished taking the foregoing sketch soon after noon, and then had

-intended to go on the bluffs and examine the Indian graves, but it

-being very warm, and perceiving the teams crossing the river very

-rapidly, I returned, and found most of the teams over. They commenced

-crossing about eight o'clock, some unloaded their goods on the bank

-which were carried in the boat to the sand bar, the teams going down to

-the ferry to cross. After a few wagons had gone over, it was perceived

-that they went over with less difficulty, and by doubling teams they

-soon took over the loaded wagons without much difficulty. I prepared

-to wade over the river, inasmuch as the wagon I am with was gone over,

-and in fact, all Heber's wagons were over except one, but Jackson

-Redding brought me Porter Rockwell's horse to ride over, and I mounted

-and proceeded. I found the current strong indeed, and about as much as

-a horse could do to ford it without a load. I soon got over safe and

-wet only my feet. At 3:00 p.m. the last wagon was over on the solid

-sand bar, and about four o'clock all the wagons and teams were safely

-landed on the bank on the south side of the Loop Fork without any loss

-or accident, which made the brethren feel thankful indeed. A little

-before four, the wagons started on to find a better place to camp and

-feed for our teams, where we can stay comfortable until Monday and give

-the teams a chance to rest, for they as well as the men are very tired

-by wading against the strong current on the quick sand. The bottom

-land on this side is more sandy than on the other side, but the grass

-appears higher but not so thick on the ground. The bluffs on the other

-side look beautiful from here, and the Indian graves show very plain.

-We went on about three miles and camped beside a small lake near the

-river. I traveled this on foot. Soon as we arrived Porter Rockwell

-discovered that there were many sun fish in the lake. I took a couple

-of hooks and lines, handed some to him, and went to fishing myself

-with the others and we had some fine sport. I caught a nice mess which

-Brother Egan cooked for supper, and although they were small they made

-a good dish. Many of the brethren caught a good mess each. Brother

-Higbee came down with the seine and made two hauls but caught none on

-account of the grass in the bottom of the lake. We have good reasons

-to suspect that we are watched by the Indians as their footsteps have

-been seen on the bluffs south, apparently very fresh, but the guard are

-faithful and we have no fear. The cannon was prepared again so as to be

-ready in case there should be an attack. Evening I walked over to Orson

-Pratt's wagon, and through his telescope saw Jupiter's four moons very

-distinctly never having seen them before. I went over to my wagon and

-looked through my glass and could see them with it, but not so distinct

-as with Orson's. The evening was very fine and pleasant. About ten

-o'clock retired to rest in good health and spirits, thankful for the

-mercies of the day that is past.

-

-Sunday, April 25

-

-Arose soon after five, shaved and changed some of my clothing. The

-morning very pleasant, wind west. Our course for the last seven miles

-has been about southwest. We are about 14 miles from the main branch

-of the Platte river and it is said that if we travel on this fork one

-hundred miles farther, we shall then be not over thirty miles from the

-main branch. This morning saw four antelope on the other bank of the

-river about a mile and a half northwest. Afternoon Elijah Newman was

-baptized by Tarlton Lewis in the lake for the benefit of his health.

-Brother Newman has been afflicted with the black scurvy in his legs and

-has not been able to walk without sticks, but after being baptized and

-hands laid on him he returned to his wagon without any kind of help

-seemingly much better. Soon after 5:00 p.m. a meeting was called at the

-wagon of President Young, and remarks made by several, and instructions

-by President Young chiefly in reference to the guard and the folly

-of conforming to gentile military customs on an expedition of this

-nature. After dark the twelve and some others met together opposite

-the President's wagon to select men to go a hunting buffalo, etc., as

-we proceed on the journey. It was ascertained that there are eight

-horses in the company which are not attached to teams. Then eight men

-were selected to ride on horseback, viz., Thomas Woolsey, Thomas Brown,

-John Brown, O. P. Rockwell, John S. Higbee, Joseph Mathews. Then

-there were selected eleven men to hunt also on foot, viz., John Pack,

-Phineas H. Young, Tarlton Lewis, Joseph Hancock, Edmund Ellsworth,

-Roswell Stevens, Edson Whipple, Barnabas L. Adams, Benjamin F. Stewart,

-Jackson Redding and Eric Glines. It was also voted that the twelve have

-the privilege of hunting when they have a mind to. After some remarks

-and cautions in regard to chasing the wild buffalo, the company was

-dismissed, and I retired to rest soon after nine o'clock, the evening

-being very fine and pleasant.

-

-Monday, April 26

-

-This morning about 3:30 an alarm was sounded. I immediately got out of

-the wagon and learned that three of the guard who were stationed to the

-northeast of the camp had discovered some Indians crawling up towards

-the wagons. They first received alarm from the motions of one of our

-horses, and noticing this they went towards the spot and listening,

-heard something rustle in the grass; they first suspected they were

-wolves and fired at them. Only one gun went off and six Indians sprang

-up and ran from within a few rods of where they stood, another gun was

-then fired at them and the camp alarmed. A strong guard was placed all

-around, and a charge of cannister put in the cannon. The day was just

-breaking when this took place and the moon had just gone down. The

-air being extremely cold and fires put out, I retired into the wagon

-till morning and arose again at half past five. After daylight, the

-footsteps of the Indians could be plainly seen where they had come down

-under the bank and sometimes stepped into the water. No doubt their

-object was to steal horses, and they had a fair privilege if the guard

-had been found asleep, for the camp was only formed in a half circle

-and some horses were tied outside. However, the prompt reception they

-met with will have a tendency to show them that we keep a good watch

-and may deter them from making another attempt. Orders were given for

-the tens to assemble for prayers this morning, instead of two in each

-wagon, which was done. President Young told me this morning that as

-soon as my health will permit, he wants me to assist Brother Bullock in

-keeping minutes, etc., as Brother Bullock is hard run, having to take

-care of a team and attend to other chores.

-

-The camp started out about 8:00 a.m. I started at 7:30 on foot and

-traveled four miles, then waited for the wagons. There is no road here,

-consequently, President Young, Kimball, G. A. Smith, A. Lyman and

-others went ahead on horseback to point out the road. The horse teams

-traveled first to break the strong grass so that it will not hurt the

-oxen's feet. The hunters started out in different directions keeping

-only a few miles from the wagons. We traveled about seven miles and

-then stopped at 11:30 beside a few little holes of water to rest and

-feed teams, etc. From this place which is somewhat elevated, can be

-seen the remains of an old village or Indian fort, over the river about

-northwest from here. The country looks beautiful, somewhat rolling and

-bounded by uneven bluffs. The land looks poor and sandy. The sun is

-very hot and not much wind. I find it has a great tendency to make sore

-lips, parched up and feverish. At 1:45 all the wagons were on the way

-again. We traveled about seven miles. We crossed two slough or soft

-places though not very bad. They are the first since we left Winter

-Quarters. The roads are more uneven than on the other side the river.

-We had to make a new road all day. At 6:15 the encampment was formed on

-the east banks of a small creek with a very gravelly bottom. The wagons

-are formed in a deep hollow and so low that they cannot be seen at a

-quarter of a mile distance. There is no fresh grass here, neither has

-the old grass been burnt off. We have crossed a number of trails today

-which some say are buffalo trails. They all run towards the river, and

-in some places there are 8 or 9, others, not more than two, and so on,

-together running about a half a yard apart. The hunters have seen no

-buffalo. Woolsey killed a goose. There is no timber here, only a few

-small willows. We are about a half a mile from the river, and there

-doesn't seem to be much timber on the river. Our course today has been

-about southwest. About a mile back from this place situated on a high

-bench of land on the banks of the river is the remains of an Indian

-village, the houses or lodges being all down and no appearance of

-timber left. The entrances to these lodges all face to the southeast,

-the same as those back at the other village. There has evidently been a

-garden around the village as the land has been broken and bears marks

-of cultivation. This morning Brother Benson discovered that one of the

-iron axles of his wagon was broken, and he moved the load so that there

-was no weight on the part which was broken, and traveled with it all

-day. This evening the wagon was unloaded, the axle taken off, Brother

-Tanner's forge set up, and the axle welded and fixed ready to put to

-the wagon again. This was done in the short space of one hour after the

-encampment was formed. The welding was performed by Brother Burr Fost.

-About eight o'clock Joseph Mathews came into camp from seeking his

-horses and stated that an Indian had rode a horse off a little before

-and he supposed it was Brother Little's horse, which was missing. Dr.

-Richards' mare was also missing. Brother Mathews stated that he went

-out to seek for his black man who was out watching his teams, and as

-he arrived he saw Brother Little's horse as he supposed going towards

-the river. He ran towards it to turn it back to camp, but as soon as he

-commenced running the horse sprang to a gallop, which made him suppose

-there was an Indian on him although he could not see the Indian. As

-soon as he gave the alarm five or six of the brethren mounted their

-horses, and pursued on the course pointed out to the river, but could

-neither see nor hear a horse or Indian. When they returned, President

-Young and Kimball and a number of others went out on horseback and

-searched till near eleven o'clock, but likewise proved unsuccessful.

-The brethren have been repeatedly warned not to let their horses go far

-from their wagons, but every time we stop they can be seen around for

-more than two miles. These are two good horses and the owners feel bad

-enough, but it will be a warning to others to be more careful.

-

-Tuesday, April 27

-

-Arose soon after five. The morning fine and pleasant. During the night

-the guard fired twice but they supposed they were wolves they fired

-at. I went back to the old Indian village before breakfast, and also

-with O. P. Rockwell, to see if any tracks of the lost horses could

-be found. He followed one track some way into a bunch of willows, but

-having no arms we returned. At 7:45 the wagons commenced moving and

-traveled till 2:15 being about twelve miles nearly a south course, the

-design being to go to the main branch of the Platte. President Young,

-Kimball and others went forward again to point out the road. O. P.

-Rockwell and some others started back to hunt the horses about the time

-we started. The land today has been very rolling and uneven. It is also

-very sandy and dry. After traveling about four miles through dead grass

-we found a large space where the grass had been burned off. Here it is

-quite green, and there are quantities of buffalo dung, which proves

-that we are not far distant from some of them. The hunters have been

-out again but have not discovered any. There are a great many lizards

-on these sand ridges, but they are of a small size. President Young and

-Kimball discovered a dog town a piece back, and many little prairie

-dogs. In one hole was a very large rattlesnake, and around the holes

-many small owls which seem to correspond with what travelers have said

-previously, that the prairie dog, rattlesnakes, and owls all live in

-the same hole together. The sun is very hot but there is a nice west

-wind although it is dry and parches our lips. When we stopped at noon

-the brethren dug several holes and obtained a little water, as there is

-none here above the surface. They could not obtain any for the cattle

-and horses. At 3:15 the teams commenced to move again. Just as they

-started, John Brown, Roswell Stevens and Brother Woodruff all shot

-at an antelope. They all hit him and killed him. Having skinned it,

-they put it into one of the wagons. The afternoon was very hot and the

-roads very dusty. After traveling about two miles some of the ox teams

-gave out and had to stop and feed. The rest went on till they found

-a small branch of water and the grass being very good we stopped for

-the night at half past five, having traveled about four miles, course

-about south. President Young and several others went back with mules

-and horses to assist the teams up which are behind. Luke Johnson shot

-a very large rattlesnake and brought it to camp for the oil. Roswell

-Stevens killed a hare, the nearest like the English hare of any I have

-seen in this country. Soon after we arrived here it began to lightning

-and thunder and we had a light shower with a very strong wind. There is

-an appearance of more rain which is very much needed indeed. At 6:30

-O. P. Rockwell, Joseph Mathews, John Eldridge and Thomas Brown

-returned from hunting the two lost horses. They reported that they

-went back to within about two miles of where we encamped on Sunday and

-looking off towards the river they saw something move in the grass at

-the foot of a high mole. They proceeded towards it thinking it was a

-wolf, when within about twelve or fourteen rods Porter stopped to shoot

-at the supposed wolf. The moment he elevated his rifle, fifteen Indians

-sprang to their feet, all naked except the breech cloth, and armed

-with rifles and bows and arrows. Each man having a rifle slung on his

-back, and his bow strung tight in his hand and about twenty arrows.

-The Indians advanced towards them but the brethren motioned and told

-them to stop and held their rifles and pistols ready to meet them. When

-the Indians saw this they began to holler "bacco! bacco!" The brethren

-told them they had not tobacco. One of the Indians came close beside

-J. Mathew's horse to shake hands with Mathews but kept his eye on the

-horse's bridle. When nearly within reach of the bridle, Brown cocked

-his pistol and pointed at the Indian shouting if he did not leave he

-would kill him. At which, the Indian seeing the pistol ready to fire,

-retreated. The Indians made signs to get the brethren lower down the

-river, but the brethren turned their horses to come to camp, thinking

-it unsafe to go near to the timber where they expected more Indians

-lay in ambush. When the brethren turned to come back the Indians fired

-six shots at them with their rifles and the brethren immediately faced

-about at which the Indians fled towards the timber below. The brethren

-did not shoot at the Indians, even when the Indians shot at them. They

-saw the tracks of the horses which are missing and returned satisfied

-that Pawnees have got them, and no doubt intended to get the horses on

-which the brethren rode, but they met with too stern a reception to

-risk an attempt. Some of these same Indians were amongst those who came

-into camp when we stopped for dinner near their village, and proves

-that they eyed the horses pretty close, and also proves that they have

-followed us close ever since. The brethren ran great risks indeed, but

-got back safe to camp without harm.

-

-About the same time the brethren returned, a gun accidentally went

-off and broke the nigh fore leg of Brother Mathew's horse. Those who

-saw the accident state that when the rain came on, some of the men

-put their guns in John Brown's wagon, loaded and with the caps on.

-Brother Brown threw his coat on the guns, and soon after went to get

-his coat and plucking it up, some part of the coat caught the cock

-of the gun and raised it so that when the coat slipped off, the gun

-went off, and the ball struck the horse's leg on the back side about

-half way between the knee and upper joint. The bone was broke entirely

-off. There were several men and horses close by the wagon at the time.

-The wagon was set on fire, but soon put out with little damage. This

-makes four of the best horses lost within the last four days, but the

-last circumstance is by far the most painful, and breaks up Brother

-Markham's team. Brother Brown made Heber a present of a little antelope

-meat. About dark the wind moved to the north and blew strong a little

-while and we had a little more rain.

-

-Wednesday, April 28

-

-Morning fine and pleasant, no Indians. The wind blew strong from

-the northeast which makes it much cooler. There are many wolves and

-antelope around here, but no buffalo have been seen as yet. Orders were

-given this morning for no man to leave the wagons except the hunters.

-The brethren had to make a road down to the small creek near which

-we camped. This occupied till about nine o'clock, when the wagons

-commenced crossing; the last wagon crossed at ten o'clock and then the

-camp proceeded on, President Young, Kimball, and several others going

-before to point out the road while the wagons were crossing the creek.

-Brother Luke Johnson shot the horse dead which had his leg broke last

-night. The horse belonged to Brother Barney, but was in Markham's team

-and was a good one, but they concluded it was better to shoot her than

-leave her alone to the mercy of the Indians. Our course for the first

-seven miles was a little east of south over a very level prairie and

-green with grass. The largest wild onions grow here I have ever seen.

-After traveling about seven miles we turned southwest, being within

-a mile of the main Platte and opposite to Grand Island. We traveled

-till 2:30 and then stopped to feed, having come about eleven miles

-today. The roads are extremely dusty and the strong wind blows it into

-the wagons and everything is covered. We are now near to timber and a

-good chance for grass for the cattle. At 4:00 p.m. we moved again and

-traveled till six, having traveled about four miles, and during the

-day, about fifteen miles. We have camped about a quarter of a mile from

-the timber and there is plenty of grass to fill the stock tonight. The

-water is also clear and cool and good tasting. The evening is cloudy

-and very cool, which affects my head some. Suppered on some antelope

-and went to bed early.

-

-Thursday, April 29

-

-The wagons started at five o'clock this morning before breakfast, to

-find more grass as this is all eaten off. We traveled till 6:30 being

-about three miles, and then turned out the teams to feed. The morning

-very cool. There seems to be very little rain in this country and no

-dew. Breakfasted on goose and mouldy bread. At twenty minutes after

-eight, the teams started again and after traveling about two miles

-came to a very pretty stream of good water, (Wood River) about ten

-feet wide on an average, but at the fording place about a rod wide. We

-were detained some here, but all got over safely. We then traveled on

-a table or prairie gently ascending for four or five miles but very

-even and good traveling. At 1:00 p.m. we stopped beside a small lake to

-rest and feed teams, having traveled about ten miles today. The wind

-south and strong. One of Orson Pratt's horses is very sick, supposed

-to be the bots. He has lain down several times in the harness within

-the last three hours. I am not astonished, as the wagons and everything

-else is shrinking up, for the wind is perfectly dry and parching;

-there is no moisture in it. Even my writing desk is splitting with the

-drought. At 2:30 p.m. we started again and traveled till about 6:30

-over tolerable level prairie, distance about eight miles, and nearly a

-southwest course. The wind was strong from southwest till sundown and

-then turned to northeast. The clouds of dust were almost sufficient to

-suffocate everyone. I rode Heber's horse this afternoon and went before

-the wagons. Saw many antelope, and the brethren had a good chance to

-kill one, but they missed it, although three of them shot at it. We

-camped at night close to Grand Island where there is an abundance of

-rushes for cattle. There is also a white substance that seems to ooze

-out of the ground around here, and tastes like salt, but not so strong

-as common salt. Brother Orson Pratt's horse is better and the day has

-passed without accident.

-

-Friday, April 30

-

-Arose at half past five. Morning cool and pleasant. The teams have

-filled themselves with rushes. Started at 7:40 and soon after the camp

-started, I started ahead on foot and have traveled about five miles.

-The prairie level and green with grass. We travel on the first bench

-about three quarters of a mile north of the timber on Grand Island.

-There are many wild geese on the prairie, also buffalo dung, but

-none very recent. There are immense patches of blue grass which from

-appearances, the buffalo are fond of. There are also numerous patches

-of buffalo grass which is very short, thick on the ground, and curly

-like the hair on a buffalo's hide, and much resembling it, except in

-color. About a mile from where we camped last night, we passed a place

-where the Indians have camped no doubt during their hunt. They must

-have been very numerous for their camp has covered a number of acres of

-ground. President Young, Kimball and Lyman are gone ahead on horseback

-to look out the road. We have thus far followed the Indian trail, but

-it is now so grown over and so old it is scarce discernible. The wind

-blows strong from the north and the dust is very bad. The atmosphere is

-dull and cloudy. Our course today has been about west. At a quarter to

-twelve we stopped to feed beside a small creek of clear, good, water,

-having traveled about eight miles. The grass along this creek is long

-and plentiful. We are about a half a mile from Grand Island.

-

-Having the privilege of copying from Brother Bullock's journal, I will

-now record the names of the standing guard as organized April 16th,

-also the men selected by Brother Tanner to form the gun division as

-ordered Saturday, April 17th.

-

-Tarlton Lewis, Stephen H. Goddard, Seeley Owens, Thomas Woolsey, John

-G. Luce, Horace Thorton, Charles D. Barnam, Sylvester H. Earl, George

-Scholes, Rufus Allen, William Empey, John Holman, George R. Grant,

-William P. Vance, James Craig, Datus Ensign, William Dykes, John Dixon,

-Samuel H. Marble, Artemus Johnson, Norton Jacobs, Addison Everett,

-William Wordsworth, John W. Norton, Francis M. Pomroy, Lyman Curtis,

-Horace M. Frink, Erastus Snow, Hans C. Hanson, William C. A.

-Smoot, Barnabas L. Adams, Rodney Badger, Charles Burk, Alexander

-P. Chesley, Appleton M. Harmon, David Powell, Joseph Mathews, John

-Wheeler, Gillrid Summe, Mathew Ivory, Edson Whipple, Conrad Klineman,

-Joseph Rooker, Nathaniel Fairbanks, Ozro Eastman, Andrew S. Gibbons,

-William A. King, Thomas Tanner, Hosea Cushing, and John H. Tippets.

-

-The names of the gun detachment are as follows:

-

-Thomas Tanner, Captain; Stephen H. Goddard, Seeley Owens, Thomas

-Woolsey, John G. Luce, Horace Thornton, Charles D. Barnam, Sylvester H.

-Earl, George Scholes and Rufus Allen.

-

-At twenty minutes after ten o'clock started again, the wind blowing

-from the north tremendously strong, and clouds of dust arose from under

-the wagon wheels. It has turned very cold and gloomy. We traveled

-again over a level prairie some distance from the river and turned off

-to camp under the bench soon after 5:00 p.m. having traveled about

-eight miles, our course a little southwest. The wagons were formed in

-an imperfect circle in such a manner as to have all the wagon mouths

-from the wind, which took near an hour to form the encampment. We are

-about a mile from water and a mile and a half from timber, with very

-little grass for our teams. It is now so cold that every man wants his

-overcoat on and a buffalo robe over it. We have had no accident and the

-brethren feel well, some are wrestling to keep themselves warm. Some

-have had the good luck to bring a little wood with them but it seems

-as if many will have a cold supper. And some perhaps little or nothing

-as they have no bread cooked. Eight p.m., the camp have found a good

-substitute for wood in the dried buffalo dung which lies on the ground

-here in great plenty, and makes a good fire when properly managed.

-Brother Kimball invented a new way of building a fire to cook on and

-which is well adapted to the use of this kind of fuel. He dug a hole

-in the ground about 8 inches deep, 15 inches long and 8 inches wide.

-Then at each end of this hole he dug another about the same dimensions

-as the first leaving about 3 inches of earth standing between the

-middle and two end holes. At the end of these partitions he made a

-hole through about 3 inches in diameter to serve as a draught. In the

-bottom of the middle hole the fire and fuel was placed, and across the

-top two wagon hammers to set the pots and pans on, so that the fire

-could have free circulation underneath. By this method much cooking

-was done with very little fuel. To save the trouble of carrying water

-so far a well was dug in a short time about 4 feet deep and good water

-obtained. After supper I went and gathered some dried buffalo dung

-(politely called buffalo chips) to cook with in the morning. Brother

-Hanson played some on his violin and some of the brethren danced to

-warm themselves. I went to bed early to get warm but having only one

-quilt for covering, I suffered much with cold. Brother Kimball rode

-ahead again on horseback and suffered some from cold.

-

-

-

-May 1847

-

-Saturday, May 1

-

-The morning very cold indeed. Inasmuch as there is little grass for the

-cattle, the camp started out at 5:40 and traveled till a quarter after

-eight, six miles before breakfast. Soon after we started this morning

-three buffalo were seen grazing on the bluff about six miles distance.

-I could see them very plain with my glass. O. P. Rockwell, Thomas

-Brown and Luke Johnson started on horseback to try to kill some. Soon

-after they went, another herd of buffalo were seen to the northwest at

-the foot of the bluffs about eight miles off. I counted with my glass,

-72, and Orson Pratt counted 74. Three of the brethren went on their

-horses after the latter herd. I watched the movement with the glass

-and saw that sometime before the brethren got to them, the buffalo

-fled and were soon after out of sight. We stopped for breakfast close

-to Grand Island and at 10:15 proceeded again. After traveling four

-miles we arrived at a small lake on our right at twelve o'clock which

-evidently connects with the river in high water. A little previous to

-this time the hunters returned and reported that Luke Johnson shot at

-one and dropped him on his knees, but he got up again and ran after the

-herd. They did not get any, but saw more farther west and went to give

-chase to the latter herd. When they got near them, they turned down

-under the bluffs and joined the herd chased by the last hunting party.

-Luke lost his cap and could not find it again. Brother Higbee said he

-could have shot one, but Woolsey told him to hold on and pick out a

-good one. They being pretty near, selected a cow and designed both to

-shoot at her, but while they were making their plans the herd started

-and they missed their chance. About the time the hunters returned,

-another still larger herd was discovered still farther west, also at

-the foot of the bluffs. The President stopped near the above mentioned

-lake and selected eleven men to go and give chase to the last seen

-herd and he gave them their instructions. Although they were at least

-eight miles from us, I distinctly counted 101 with my glass and amongst

-them many calves. This being the first day buffalo has been seen on

-our journey and in fact the first ever seen by any except about five

-or six of the brethren, it excited considerable interest and pleasure

-in the breasts of the brethren, and as may be guessed, the teams moved

-slowly and frequently stopped to watch their movement. When the hunters

-were within a mile or two from the herd, two of the dogs gave chase

-to an antelope, which made directly towards the buffalo. One of the

-dogs chased it till it went into the midst of the herd and when the

-buffalo saw the dog, they commenced to canter into a closer huddle.

-The dog, however, evidently frightened with their savage appearance,

-stopped and retraced his steps. About this time Elder Kimball seemed to

-get inspired with the idea of chasing the buffalo and he immediately

-called for Egan's fifteen shooter and started with it on full gallop.

-After the dog returned the buffalo did not move much from the place

-and the hunters moved gently along till they got pretty near them, at

-which time Heber joined, just as the herd discovered them and commenced

-galloping off. The brethren's feelings who were left with the wagons

-were now strung up to the highest pitch, a feeling of exciting interest

-appeared to prevail throughout the camp, they having heard and read

-so much of the mad ferocity of the buffalo when hotly pursued, and

-knowing that all the hunters were inexperienced in regard to hunting

-the wild buffalo. While they felt for the safety of the hunters, they

-still desired to see as much of the chase as the distance would allow,

-and were wishful that the chase might be successful as a number have

-no meat and a piece of fresh meat would taste good to all men and save

-our bread stuff, and the desire to taste the much famed buffalo meat

-created a longing desire to see some of the herd fall. Soon as the herd

-commenced galloping off, the hunters followed in pursuit at full gallop

-and soon closed in with them. At this time I got my glass and rested

-it on Brother Aaron Farr's shoulder, determined to see as much of the

-chase as possible. I soon discovered O. P. Rockwell ride into

-the midst of the herd which then appeared to number over 200, others

-having come in sight when the herd commenced to run. Porter was soon

-enveloped in the cloud of dust caused by the heavy tramp of the buffalo

-on the dry sandy ground, but in a very short time the herd began to

-separate and scatter in every direction, a small party coming down

-the bluff again and some running west under the bluffs, others going

-over. The hunters closed in on the first party and commenced their

-fire, especially at one cow which they finally succeeded in separating

-from all the rest, and determined to keep to her until they killed

-her, except Porter, who as soon as he had wounded her, left her with

-the hunters and pursued some of the rest. The cow was now in close

-quarters and after she had been shot through two or three times, Elder

-Kimball rode close to her with his fifteen shooter and fired over his

-horse's head, she dropped helpless and was soon dispatched. At the

-report of the gun which was very heavy loaded, Elder Kimball's horse

-sprang and flew down the bluff like lightning and he having let go the

-lines to shoot, her sudden motion overbalanced him and his situation

-was precarious to the extreme. The other hunters saw his situation and

-trembled for his safety but could render him no assistance. However,

-being a good horseman, he maintained his position in the saddle and

-soon succeeded in gaining the lines and by a vigorous effort succeeded

-after some time in reining in his horse and returned to the rest

-unharmed and without accident. All this movement passed about as quick

-as thought, and as soon as they saw the cow dead and all right they

-again followed in pursuit of the remaining buffalo. About this time

-three of the herd separated from the rest and came in a direction

-towards the camp on a gallop. President Young seeing this, ordered a

-halt, and the wagons to get close together lest the buffalo should,

-in their fury and excitement, venture to go between the wagons and do

-much mischief. However, they were discovered by some of the hunters

-nearer the camp and some foot men who gave chase to them changed their

-course when within about a mile from the camp. At this time I had a

-very good view of their shape, color and appearance when running which

-I shall endeavor to describe hereafter. Elder Kimball arrived in time

-to aid in the chase of these three which lasted some time. The hunters

-made choice of a large and very furious bull, and worked with him

-some time, shooting him through several times but all this did not

-seem to impede his progress. O. P. Rockwell said he had heard it

-said that a buffalo could not be hurt with a ball shot at his head.

-Having a fair chance with this one, he determined to satisfy himself,

-and (previous to his being wounded) gaining a little in advance came

-right in front within about a rod of him and discharged his rifle

-pistol which struck the center of his head, but with no other effect

-than to make it smoke a little, some dust fly and the raving animal

-shake savagely. The brethren, John S. Higbee and John Pack, soon after

-succeeded in dropping him and laid him dead at their feet, John Pack

-being the one that dropped him. During all this, other scenes were

-passing of equal interest. One of the calves was discovered within a

-few rods of the wagons, a shot fired at it and it was soon caught by

-the dogs, killed and put into a feed box. Porter chased another calf

-to within a mile of the camp previous to his chasing the bull. Some

-of the footmen surrounded and dispatched it, and soon after brought

-and put it in one of the wagons. Other brethren were still away at the

-bluffs, but we had no certainty of their success until Elder Kimball,

-John Pack, and several others came up to the camp after dispatching

-the bull and reported two other cows killed and three calves. This

-was a little before 5:00 p.m. When it was ascertained for a certainty

-that one was killed, the revenue cutter was unloaded and sent to fetch

-it to camp. It was reported that two other cows and three calves were

-killed. When Elder Kimball and others came up to the camp, President

-Young requested some of the brethren to unload their wagons and go and

-fetch the others reported to be killed, while the wagons would strike

-towards the river and camp for the night. The chase lasted from soon

-after 1:00 until 4:00 p.m. Soon four wagons were unloaded, the brethren

-having their loads on the ground in care of a guard, and were ready

-to start out. Having a great desire to see a buffalo in his natural

-state, my feet being very sore, and the distance to the bluffs being

-over three miles, I got into Brother Aaron Farr's wagon, he being one

-who unloaded to fetch in the meat, and we started for the one shot down

-by Elder Kimball, he and O. P. Rockwell following on horseback.

-On our route, we met Luke Johnson and two other hunters returning.

-Luke had a calf tied on his horse, himself on foot. When we arrived at

-the cow, we found that three of the brethren had come on foot and had

-already got the hide off, except the head. She was soon cut in two, put

-in the wagon with the rest of the meat, hide and head, and we started

-for the next cow which was about three quarters of a mile distant. This

-cow would probably weigh on foot, about 700 pounds. She was not very

-fat, but the meat looked nice and clean. When we arrived at the next

-cow, we found several of the brethren at work with her, they had got

-her hide off and soon had her in the wagon. We then proceeded to camp

-and got in soon after sundown. The meat was unloaded in the semi-circle

-opposite the President's wagon and placed on the hide which was spread

-on the ground for the purpose of keeping it clean. The brethren's

-faces beamed with joy to see the meat begin to come into camp, and

-with some astonishment to view the size and ferocious appearance of

-the head, which still had the hide on. Soon after the other wagons

-came in and each deposited its load in the same place. Joseph Mathews

-came in about the same time and reported that he had killed another

-calf after chasing it three miles, making the total number killed in

-the first day's buffalo hunt by the Camp of the Latter-day Saints,

-already reported as follows: one bull, three cows and six calves, a

-circumstance far exceeding our expectations and best hopes, and all

-without the slightest accident or loss to man or property, except Luke

-Johnson's cap and a ramrod to a rifle. There is, however, one shade

-of suspense caused by the intelligence that Joseph Hancock has not

-returned to camp. He started out on foot when the three buffalo were

-first discovered this morning and has not been seen or heard of for

-sometime. Considerable fear is entertained for his safety from the fact

-that he is lame, and it is evident, or at least considered so, that

-there are Indians near because a large smoke as of prairie burning has

-been seen all the afternoon within some six or eight miles to the west

-and must have been set on fire by somebody and the probability is, it

-is Indians, although none has been seen for several days. The meat was

-cut up into quarters and distributed one quarter to each company of

-ten, leaving some to be distributed in the morning, and in a short time

-every fire was loaded with it, and the camp had a good feast on the

-fruits of today's labors.

-

-Soon after the hunters started out at noon we came to a long range

-of dog towns and saw many of the little prairie dogs playing around

-their holes. The extent of this dog town is yet unknown, for we have

-traveled over, and parallel with it about five miles this afternoon,

-and they seem to extend still farther west. In some places the town

-is nearly two miles broad, in others not so much, and must contain

-thousands of the little dogs. I could not get near enough to see their

-form distinctly, for they are so quick into their holes when anything

-approaches, you can only have a partial view of them. They appear to be

-about as long as a common grey squirrel but more chunky, a larger body

-and chubbed head. The tail is short, more resembling that of a dog,

-their color light brown. Their bark resembles the chirp of an English

-throstle, and something like the chirp of a squirrel. They appear to

-live on grass as it is all eaten off close to the ground throughout

-the extent of their dog town, and the ground looks naked and barren

-as a desert. Several of the brethren shot at the dogs but failed in

-killing any. We had a north wind this afternoon and cold weather, our

-course being nearly west over a level prairie, not far distant from the

-island. Since noon we traveled about eight miles, and the encampment

-was formed at half past six o'clock near a small lake about a mile

-above the head of Grand Island. The grass is not so good here as it

-has been back, and but a poor chance for the cattle, etc., to fill

-themselves.

-

-The appearance of the wild buffalo at a distance is somewhat singular.

-The color of the back and about half way down the sides is a light

-brown, the rest is a very dark brown. The shoulder appears slightly

-rounding and humped. When running, the large shaggy head hangs low

-down, about half way in height between the ground and the top of

-the shoulder. They canter like any ox or cow, but appear far more

-cumbersome and heavy, especially about the fore parts, which look

-larger than they really are on account of the long, thick matty hair.

-They run tolerably fast, but a good horse will easily gain on them.

-They will run a long time without diminishing their speed. Their meat

-is very sweet and tender as veal.

-

-Sunday, May 2

-

-This morning is fine but cold. Ice about half an inch thick. Sometime

-in the night a buffalo and calf came within a short distance of the

-wagons. The guard discovered them and shot at the calf, wounding it

-in the hind leg. They caught it alive and tied it up near the wagons

-but concluded finally to kill and dress it. About six o'clock we

-were gladdened to see Joseph Hancock come into camp with a piece of

-buffalo meat. He reported that he killed a buffalo yesterday back on

-the bluffs, and there being no one with him he concluded to stay by it

-over night. He made a fire and scattered a little powder around his

-buffalo to keep off the wolves. Some visited him during the night, but

-were awed by the fire. After he had told his story and taken breakfast,

-Brother Hancock started in company with four or five other brethren to

-fetch in the meat on horseback, as no wagons could get over the bluffs

-to it. They found that the wolves had devoured much of it, but the

-balance they brought along with them. They also killed two antelope and

-brought them into camp. The total number of buffalo now caught is five

-large ones and seven calves. Edmund Ellsworth killed one of the prairie

-dogs, and brought it to camp. It looks much like a squirrel, only the

-body is thicker and the tail short and no bush on it. The day grew

-pleasant till about noon, when it became cloudy and cold. President

-Young, Kimball and others started out to look out a camp ground where

-better feed can be obtained for our stock. They returned a little after

-two and gave orders to go on a few miles. There have been a number of

-buffalo seen in different directions, one grazing within three quarters

-of a mile from camp, but orders were not to hunt or shoot today. At

-three-fifteen the camp started and traveled two miles over dog towns

-as yesterday. At a little after four p.m. we camped beside a long lake

-of shoal, clear water near the banks of the Platte. This lake is about

-three rods wide and connects with the river. The Platte appears about

-two miles wide at this place but very shoal and muddy. There is no

-timber but plenty of grass, mostly last year's growth. The weather is

-more temperate and the wind ceased. President Young, Kimball and others

-went on to look out a crossing place over this lake, etc. On their way,

-they fell in with a buffalo cow and calf and chased them some to get

-a view of them but not to kill. On their return they said we should

-tarry here tomorrow and have some blacksmith work done and probably

-hunt some. Half of the hide off the bull's face was brought into camp.

-On examination I found the mark where Porter shot at his head. The ball

-made a small hole, barely cutting through the outer surface or grain

-of the hide which was near an inch thick. The hair near the top of the

-head is about a foot long.

-

-Monday, May 3

-

-This morning cold and ice in the water pails. The hunters are going

-out on foot. Tanner and Davenport are fixing their forges to do some

-repairing, shoeing, etc. At about nine the hunters, twenty in number,

-started out with two wagons which had been unloaded for the purpose.

-At the same time, fifteen of the brethren on horseback started west

-to examine the route, etc. At two-thirty the party who went to look

-out the route returned and reported that Brother Empey had discovered

-a large war party of Indians while he was chasing an antelope. The

-Indians are in a hollow about twelve miles distance and about three

-hundred in number, some on their horses and some standing beside them

-holding the bridle. The company also saw nearly twenty scattered

-Indians about four miles from here. When this report was made, orders

-were given to dispatch a number of the brethren on horses, well armed

-to warn the hunters and tell them to come to camp. In about half an

-hour, twenty-three men started out on this mission. Before they reached

-the bluffs which are about four miles from here, some of the hunters

-were on their way to camp, having seen only one buffalo during the day.

-In a little time all the hunters were notified and were on their way

-back. They arrived about six o'clock, having got three antelope, and

-the horsemen who went after them got two calves which were all brought

-in and the day passed without accident. Some of the brethren saw some

-objects at a distance, which, by their motions they were satisfied were

-Indians. The day has been fine but cool and cloudy, with occasionally

-a few drops of rain. A number of wagon tires have been set and other

-blacksmithing, washing, drying meat, etc., done. The wind near south.

-The cannon was unlimbered at night and prepared for action in case it

-should be needed.

-

-Tuesday, May 4

-

-The morning fine but cool, wind about southwest. Two horses ran east as

-much as six or eight miles and were pursued by the brethren and brought

-back. William Smoot was thrown from a horse and his senses knocked out

-of him by the fall. He soon recovered and appears to have sustained no

-injury.

-

-At seven-thirty the camp was called and received instructions from

-President Young, especially in regard to leaving the wagons and

-scattering off hunting without counsel. He strongly urged the brethren

-not to do it any more and said if they did, some of them would be

-caught by the Indians and if not killed would be severely abused. The

-instructions and regulations given April 17th were read and enjoined

-upon the camp to be observed more strictly. It was decided that the

-cannon wagon should be unloaded, the box put on another wagon so

-that the cannon can be always ready for action. An addition of ten

-volunteers was made to the standing guard and ordered that all horses

-and mules should be tied inside the circle at night, and the cattle

-and cows outside within a few rods of the wagons. A guard to be placed

-around the cattle when turned out to graze. It is thought best to

-travel with the wagons four abreast and the cannon to go in the rear.

-

-At nine o'clock the wagons commenced moving and passed over the lake

-near its junction with the river, at which place it is about ten or

-twelve feet wide.

-

-After traveling about a half a mile the camp stopped some time, waiting

-for some wagons behind. While stopping, three wagons were discovered on

-the opposite bank of the river, considered to be traders going back to

-Council Bluffs. The river is about two miles wide and no person here

-acquainted with it, consequently no one attempted to go over, which

-many desired. About eleven o'clock we proceeded, five wagons abreast

-so as to be better prepared for defense should the Indians attack us.

-After traveling about two miles, one of the men from the wagons on the

-other side the river overtook us and we halted to see him. He said

-there are only nine of them. They have been to Fort Laramie for furs

-and are going to Council Bluffs. This is the sixteenth day since they

-left the fort with ox teams. He says the road is good on the other

-side and the river easily forded, being not more than knee deep in

-the deepest place and a good bottom. He cheerfully agreed to carry

-letters back for us but could not wait long. I wrote one to my family

-and in about half an hour a pretty large mail was made up to send back

-to Winter Quarters, and may the Lord grant that it may arrive safely.

-Brother Johnson bought a buffalo robe of the man for about a pound and

-a half of coffee, and another brother bought one for a pound of sugar

-and a little pork. I feel my mind relieved by this unexpected privilege

-of writing back to my dear family and hope they will have the pleasure

-of perusing the contents.

-

-At twenty minutes after one the bugle sounded for a march, and the

-messenger is returning with the letters and a bag of provisions on his

-shoulder which the brethren have given him for carrying the letters.

-We traveled about four miles farther and at three-thirty, stopped to

-let the teams feed on a small spot where the fire has not touched, the

-rest having all been burned off within a few days. We have traveled

-today only about six miles, having stopped much. The country is still

-very level and nice traveling only for the dust. The wind south and our

-course nearly west. When the trader went back over the river, Thomas

-Woolsey, John Brown and John Pack accompanied him on horses to speak

-with a person whom Brother Woolsey is acquainted with. They returned

-soon after we stopped to feed and say that the river is very good to

-cross, not being more than two feet deep in the deepest place, and the

-bottom good. The horses broke through but very little. The traders

-say furthermore, that if we continue on this side, we shall have to

-cross the river twice where the water is much deeper and cannot be

-crossed only in a ferry. There is a good traveled road also, which

-would be an advantage we have not got on this side. During the time we

-stopped to feed, a guard was placed around the cattle and horses to

-keep them from straying far from the wagons. Then men were called out

-and drilled with their loaded guns in the circle formed by the wagons.

-Some objects are seen grazing about four miles west of us thought to be

-buffalo. Thirteen in number. Some of the hunters are going out to give

-them a chase, and try to kill some of them. At a quarter after five

-o'clock, the camp was called together and Brother Brown reported what

-the traders said about the route, etc., as above. The subject was then

-talked over and when it was considered that we are making a road for

-thousands of saints to follow, and they cannot ford the river when the

-snow melts from the mountains, it was unanimously voted to keep on this

-side as far as Fort Laramie at least. Soon after this we started on

-again. Saw a lone buffalo but a short distance from us but it galloped

-across the river. Saw also a number of antelope and some deer. About

-seven o'clock we passed a spot where the Indians have camped and must

-have been many of them. A while after sundown we arrived at a creek of

-good water and camped for the night, having traveled about nine miles

-today. The prairie level but all the grass burned off, except in small

-patches. We have camped on a small spot which has escaped the fire.

-Elder Kimball, who was one of the hunters who started out at four

-o'clock, said the objects seen from camp were antelope, but he had seen

-a herd of buffalo about a mile ahead of where we now are. He named this

-creek, Buffalo creek.

-

-Wednesday, May 5

-

-The morning fine and very pleasant. Saw two small herds of buffalo a

-few miles from camp. At seven-thirty continued our journey. I went

-on foot about two miles and then stopped to count the horses, mules,

-oxen, etc., and afterwards walked on again to the first wagons. Here

-Elder Kimball offered me his horse to ride. I then went ahead with the

-horsemen. We soon after came to a very bad slough and had to bear off

-to the north to find a place to cross it. The prairie after we crossed

-this slough about a mile wide from the river was very soft and it was

-necessary to bear still farther to the north. The horses' feet cut

-through the sod and the ground appeared wet under, although there has

-been no rain for some time. At eleven-thirty we stopped to feed on a

-small patch of unburnt grass, having come about nine miles, course

-about west, with a very strong south wind. There were two buffalo

-within about a half a mile from camp, grazing. Some of the brethren

-went to view them, but the orders of the day are not to kill anything

-which the men cannot carry to camp. There are no appearances of Indians

-near except the prairie which is still burning ahead of us, supposed

-to be set on fire by them. About one p.m. continued our journey and

-traveled till three p.m., when some of the hunters came in, bringing a

-live buffalo calf, also one they had killed. They reported that John

-Brown, Jackson Redding and John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson had each killed

-a calf, the one killed by Brother Higbee having previously been shot by

-Amasa Lyman. Joseph Mathews killed a cow and Elder Kimball, O. P.

-Rockwell and John S. Higbee chased the one brought in alive until a dog

-seized it and Porter left his horse and caught it without shooting at

-it and led it to camp. The revenue cutter was unloaded and sent after

-the cow and calf left, they being about three miles off. We traveled on

-about a half an hour and found the prairie all in a blaze. President

-Young and Kimball thinking it unsafe to risk the wagons near the fire,

-ordered the camp to go back a half a mile to an island where we can

-have water for our teams and be secure from the fire. The prairie is

-all burned bare and the black ashes fly bad, making the brethren look

-more like Indians than white folks. There is some feed on the island,

-and the cattle easily ford the stream to it. The calf is tied in the

-circle. When a dog goes near it, it will attack the largest and they

-flee from it, though not more than six or eight weeks old. About half

-past six the revenue cutter arrived with the meat, which was fatter

-than any we have had. They also brought in another calf which they

-killed while out for the cow, making a total of one cow and six calves

-brought into camp today. The meat was divided amongst the companies of

-ten, each having either a calf or half a quarter of a cow.

-

-Thursday, May 6

-

-This morning at five-fifteen, President Young called to the camp and

-proposed to go on to where we can find feed for the teams. The brethren

-assented and he gave orders to start as quickly as possible. However,

-some must feed their teams a little corn, some milk their cows, etc.,

-and it took till near six-thirty to get started. During the night the

-Lord sent a light shower of rain which has put the fire out except in

-one or two places and made it perfectly safe traveling. We have had a

-strong southeast wind through the night but the morning is calm and

-pleasant. We traveled about two miles and stopped on the unburned grass

-to feed at a quarter to seven. Several antelope were surrounded by

-the brethren and some shot at them, killing one. The rest made their

-escape. We can see several large herds of buffalo within about two

-miles of the camp and many calves amongst them. President Young and

-Kimball rode ahead to find a place to stop for feed. The ground is

-hard and good traveling. At a quarter to nine, proceeded on, President

-Young and Kimball going ahead to point out the road. Our course about

-northwest, the wind strong from west. We traveled near the river. Saw

-thirteen elk together, also many antelope and numerous herds of buffalo

-on both sides of the river. Jackson Redding shot an antelope which Luke

-Johnson chased near the wagons.

-

-A young buffalo calf followed Luke to camp, but the President advised

-him to leave it as it is only a few days old. We stopped near the river

-at a quarter to twelve, having traveled about six miles. We find a

-little more grass here, but the numerous herds of buffalo keep it eaten

-off close to the ground nearly all the way we have traveled today. The

-President gave orders that no more game should be killed until further

-orders. It appears we have got as much meat in camp as can be taken

-care of. While we were stopping for noon, some of the cows moved off

-towards a large buffalo herd, and when President Young and Kimball

-started ahead after dinner they discovered the cows near the buffalo.

-Brother Woolsey went to turn them back, but he had to run his mule

-some distance before he could prevent the cows from mingling with the

-buffalo. They brought the cows back to the wagons and then proceeded

-ahead again. One part of the horsemen's business today has been to

-drive the buffalo out of our track, judging it unsafe to risk them

-between the wagons and the river. The camp proceeded on at one-thirty

-and in about two miles distance found a lake of clear water. Here we

-discovered the horsemen coming back, and found that the President had

-lost his large spy glass, while chasing the cows from the buffalo herd,

-a second time. He did not find it. We traveled slowly this afternoon,

-some of the horses and oxen having given out in consequence of lack

-of feed to sustain them. We traveled till six-thirty and camped near

-some islands in the river, having traveled about seven miles this

-afternoon and fifteen through the day, our course a little west of

-northwest. Wind about west. Some think we have traveled eighteen, some

-twenty and some even twenty-five miles today, but from the number of

-times we stopped and the slowness with which the teams moved, I feel

-satisfied that fifteen miles is plenty. About three quarters of a mile

-back we saw a buffalo cow which appears to be sick. She fought the dogs

-some time and then lay down, and the brethren went close to her, some

-venturing to feel and handle her. I was within six or eight feet of her

-and had a good view, as much as I wanted. She has lost all her hair

-and looks very poor and weak. The President ordered that the brethren

-leave her and not disturb her and she was left lying down, but it is

-doubtful the wolves will kill and eat her before morning. When the

-brethren went back to hunt the spy glass they found that the wolves

-had killed the calf and nearly eaten it up. What they had not eaten,

-they carried off with them. We have never been out of sight of herds of

-buffalo today, and from where we are camped, I am satisfied we can see

-over five thousand with the glass. The largest herd we have yet seen is

-still ahead of us. The prairie looks black with them, both on this and

-the other side of the river. Some think we have passed fifty, and some

-even a hundred thousand during the day, or have seen them. It is truly

-a sight wonderful to behold, and can scarcely be credited by those who

-have not actually seen them.

-

-Friday, May 7

-

-This morning the wind northwest and almost as cold as winter. The

-buffalo vastly numerous all around. About eight a.m. the camp was

-called together and measures taken to raise more teams to put to the

-canyon as some of the horses and even cattle have given out. The

-President chastised Elder Snow for not attending to the cows yesterday

-causing the President to lose his spy glass, it being Brother Snow's

-turn to drive the cows according to his own voluntary agreement. At a

-little before eleven o'clock, Porter Rockwell, Thomas Brown and Joseph

-Mathews started back to hunt the spy glass, and soon after they left,

-the camp proceeded onward. The day was cloudy and very cold. Our course

-about northwest. We traveled about seven miles and camped at two-thirty

-near several small islands, on the banks of the river. About four p.m.,

-Porter and the others returned, having found the spy glass, which was

-a source of joy to all the brethren. At six-thirty the companies were

-called out to drill. I have been very sick all day with a complaint and

-have suffered much.

-

-Saturday, May 8

-

-Morning cold but fine. Started out at nine o'clock and traveled till

-one p.m., distance seven and a half miles, course a little west

-of northwest. The prairie on both sides of the river is literally

-black with buffalo, and to try to say as to what number we have seen

-this morning would be folly. I should imagine that at a moderate

-calculation, we have seen over fifty thousand. They are more tame than

-they have been, and will stand till the wagons come within two hundred

-yards of them. Porter has shot one about two years old, the meat looks

-nice. There is no difficulty in getting meat enough. It is with some

-difficulty that the horsemen can drive them away from the track as

-fast as the wagons come up. It is very warm today, and no wind. I have

-counted the revolutions of a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance

-we have traveled. The reason why I have taken this method which is

-somewhat tedious, is because there is generally a difference of two and

-sometimes four miles in a day's travel between my estimation and that

-of some others, and they have all thought I underrated it. This morning

-I determined to take pains to know for a certainty how far we travel

-today. Accordingly I measured the circumference of the nigh hind wheel

-of one of Brother Kimball's wagons being the one I sleep in, in charge

-of Philo Johnson. I found the wheel 14 feet 8 inches in circumference,

-not varying one eighth of an inch. I then calculated how many

-revolutions it would require for one mile and found it precisely 360

-not varying one fraction which somewhat astonished me. I have counted

-the whole revolutions during the day's travel and I find it to be a

-little over eleven and a quarter miles, twenty revolutions over. The

-overplus I shall add to the next day's travel. According to my previous

-calculations we were two hundred eighty-five miles from Winter Quarters

-this morning before we started. After traveling ten miles I placed a

-small cedar post in the ground with these words written on it with

-a pencil. "From Winter Quarters, two hundred ninety-five miles, May

-8, '47. Camp all well. Wm. Clayton." Some have past the day's travel

-at thirteen and some fourteen miles, which serves to convince more

-strongly that the distances are overrated. I have repeatedly suggested

-a plan of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance

-we travel in a day, and many begin to be sanguine for carrying it into

-effect, and I hope it will be done. Our course this afternoon has been

-northwest, no wind and the prairie as bare as a poor English pasture,

-the grass being eaten off by uncountable herds of buffalo. No pen nor

-tongue can give an idea of the multitude now in sight continually, and

-it appears difficult to keep them away from the wagons. Two calves

-have been killed and brought to camp and multitudes would be killed

-if the President did not prohibit the brethren from killing them only

-as we need the meat. Truly, the Lord's cattle upon the thousand hills

-are numerous. We are now camped on the banks of the river within a

-quarter of a mile from where the range of bluffs, which have appeared

-exceedingly ragged all day, strike the river, and when we move again we

-have got to cross over them. President Young and Kimball have been back

-on the bluffs on foot some distance and report that as far as they can

-see the grass is eaten perfectly bare and the prospect for feed for our

-teams is poor indeed. There are several buffalo lying dead around here,

-whether dead from old age or by the hands of hunters or of starvation,

-it is unknown. Many of the brethren have to cook their victuals on dry

-buffalo dung, there being no wood near.

-

-Sunday, May 9

-

-The morning very cold with wind southeast. At seven-fifty we proceeded

-on three and a half miles, going a little around some of the bluffs

-until we turned down on a low bottom and very sandy. We have camped

-near some islands and can get wood and water, but poor feed for the

-teams. We arrived here at nine-fifty and shall stay till morning.

-Soon as the camp was formed, I went about three quarters of a mile

-below to the river and washed my socks, towel and handkerchief as well

-as I could in cold water without soap. I then stripped my clothing

-off and washed from head to foot, which has made me feel much more

-comfortable for I was covered with dust. After washing and putting on

-clean clothing I sat down on the banks of the river and gave way to a

-long train of solemn reflections respecting many things, especially in

-regard to my family and their welfare for time and eternity. I shall

-not write my thoughts here, inasmuch as I expect this journal will have

-to pass through other hands besides my own or that of my family but if

-I can carry my plans into operation, they will be written in a manner

-that my family will each get their portion, whether before my death or

-after, it matters not.

-

-The day is very warm and the wind has moved to the west. According to

-my calculations, we are now 300 miles from Winter Quarters, lacking a

-few rods. I got a small board and wrote on it: "From Winter Quarters

-three hundred miles, May 9, 1847. Pioneer Camp all well. Distance

-according to the reckoning of Wm. Clayton." This was nailed on a post

-and in the evening I went and set it up about three hundred yards from

-here on a bend of the river. Spent the afternoon reading and writing

-in Elder Kimball's journal. At three p.m. a meeting was called and the

-camp addressed by several. President Young took tea with Elder Kimball,

-and afterwards they started out together with one or two others to

-look at the country ahead of us. They went a few miles and found a

-small stream which we shall have to cross. Here they saw multitudes of

-buffalo coming to water. Porter and Phineas Young went within six or

-eight rods of them to try to get one, but in the whole herd, they could

-not find one fit to kill. They are very poor, for there is no feed for

-them, and in fact they are so numerous that they eat the grass as fast

-as it springs. There are, however, some good cottonwood groves and

-good water at the stream. After sundown the wind blew strong from the

-northwest and the evening was cold and chilly.

-

-Monday, May 10

-

-The morning fine but cool. The wind nearly ceased. Last night I

-dreamed that I was in company with the camp which was stopping beside

-a considerable river of deep water. Our horses and cattle were tied

-to stakes all around the camp to the distance of a quarter of a mile,

-some good timber thinly scattered around. I thought President Young,

-Kimball and several others started up the river in a flat boat without

-stating their object, leaving the brethren to guard the camp, cattle,

-etc. in their absence. When they had been gone sometime I thought a

-large herd of buffalo came on full gallop right amongst our horses and

-cattle, causing them to break their ropes and fly in every direction.

-The brethren seemed thunderstruck and did not know what to do. Seeing a

-small skiff in the river, I sprang into it, and a paddle lying in it,

-I commenced rowing in pursuit of the President. It seemed as though I

-literally flew through the water passing everything on the way like a

-railway carriage. In a few minutes I overtook the brethren in the flat

-boat, took the skiff and threw it on shore and to my astonishment I

-saw that the skiff was made only of barks and cracked all over, and

-it seemed impossible to put it in the water without sinking it. The

-paddle with which I had rowed proved to be a very large feather and I

-had another feather in my left hand with which I steered the skiff.

-When I got into the flat boat, I made known what had passed in the

-camp, but the brethren seemed no ways alarmed. I awoke and behold, it

-was all a dream. Dr. Richards is going to deposit a letter in a stick

-of wood prepared for the purpose near this place in such a manner that

-the next company will discover it. He fixed it on a long pole and being

-assisted by President Young and others raised it and fixed it firm in

-the ground. His distance from Winter Quarters three hundred and sixteen

-miles. At nine five the camp proceeded onward. After traveling two

-miles we crossed a small creek which Elder Kimball named Skunk creek,

-easily forded, though the ground was soft on the west side. About this

-time the brethren at the head of the camp discovered a strange horse

-alone on the prairie. Porter and Thomas Brown gave chase to try to

-catch it. Brother John Brown states that when the Mississippi company

-passed on the other side last season, one of the brethren lost a mare

-and two colts, and this is supposed to be the oldest of the two. When

-Brother Woolsey and Tippets came through from the battalion last winter

-they saw the same horse near here. We traveled till twelve five and

-finding a little better feed stopped for dinner having traveled a few

-rods over six miles. The last two miles was over very soft prairie and

-although the last year's grass has not been burned, the wheels cut

-through the sod frequently. At the creek four miles back, some of the

-brethren shot a buffalo which was brought into camp in the revenue

-cutter. The meat is said to be good and the fattest we have had. At

-two we continued our journey. About the same time Porter and Brown

-returned having failed to catch the horse. After traveling about half

-a mile we crossed a very bad slough, and beyond that for a mile the

-ground was wet and soft. The teams began to give out, and at half past

-four o'clock, the President ordered the wagons to strike for the timber

-which was a little out of our course, but necessary to favor the teams

-and obtain wood and water. We arrived near the timber and camped at

-four fifty, having traveled since my last guide post a little over

-nine and three-fourths miles, the last two miles the ground being dry

-and good traveling. Some of the hunters killed a deer and we had some

-venison for supper. Our course a little north of west. Light wind from

-northwest. The day warm and pleasant. We have a little better feed for

-cattle, and on the island plenty of brouse for horses, better timber

-than we have had for some time past. It appears plain that vast herds

-of buffalo have wintered here, but have mostly left and gone eastward

-sometime ago, and we have the full growth of this year's grass which

-is small indeed. The grass evidently springs later the farther west we

-travel, and nature seems to have taught the wild cattle this lesson,

-hence their eastward progress. There are some scattering herds of

-buffalo around, but not nearly so numerous as they were some thirty

-miles back. The face of the country here is indeed beautiful, the soil

-rich on the bottoms, the ragged bluffs on each side of the river have

-a splendid appearance, and at about ten miles distance, west of where

-we now are, they seem to circle around until they form a junction. It

-appears evident also, that we are above the junction of the north and

-south forks of the Platte, the north fork running nearly northwest and

-the south fork southwest. Brother Woolsey says these are the forks

-in reality, but are connected some miles higher up by a slough, and

-consequently the land between is set down by travelers as the main land

-rather than as an island.

-

-Tuesday, May 11

-

-The morning cold. Wind east; camp well. At 7:00 a.m. went with a number

-of the brethren who were going to dig some wolves out of a hole about a

-quarter of a mile from camp. They dug out four and brought them alive

-to camp. They are probably six or eight weeks old and about the size

-of an English hare, very vicious. At half past nine the camp moved

-onward over a very nice level, dry prairie for five miles. Amongst the

-timber on the island could be seen many small cedar trees. At the end

-of five miles, we had to pass over a small ridge of low, sandy bluffs,

-which extended to the river. After passing nearly over the bluffs we

-stopped half an hour to water the teams and eat a little dinner, then

-proceeded on three miles farther and passed over a creek of clear

-water, but this could not be very good in consequence of so many dead

-buffalo lying in it. We proceeded on half a mile, and finding tolerably

-good feed, stopped for the night, having traveled eight and half miles

-today. Weather fine, wind south and southeast; course a little west

-or northwest. We have seen few buffalo today, but there are signs

-of thousands having wintered in the neighborhood. The country looks

-beautiful, soil rich, only lacking timber. After the camp was formed,

-it being half a mile to water, the brethren dug two wells, and about

-four feet deep found plenty of good water. One of the wells is reported

-to run a pail full a minute. Brother Appleton Harmon is working at the

-machinery for the wagon to tell the distance we travel and expects

-to have it in operation tomorrow, which will save me the trouble of

-counting, as I have done, during the last four days. Took supper on

-some duck presented to Elder Kimball by George Billings.

-

-Wednesday, May 12

-

-Morning cool, weather fine. Brother Appleton Harmon has completed the

-machinery on the wagon so far that I shall only have to count the

-number of miles, instead of the revolution of the wagon wheel. We

-started at 9:10, the first mile pretty soft, the rest tolerably hard

-and very good traveling. We have passed over vast beds of salt, or

-rather dust with a salt taste. It looks something like dirty flour.

-Traveled eight miles in four hours and two minutes, and stopped at

-12:48 to feed, nearly opposite two small islands. The feed tolerably

-good. Our course northwest. Considerable strong wind from southeast

-covering everything in the wagons with dust and sand. No timber on the

-bank of the river and but little on the islands. The hunters report

-that they have seen many dead buffalo between here and the bluff with

-the hides off and tongues taken out, a strong proof that Indians have

-been here very recently, as the flesh looks fresh and lately killed.

-The range of bluffs on each side the river extend much farther apart,

-and near the foot of the south range can be seen timber scattering

-along, which is an evidence that the south fork ranges in that

-direction, although some are sanguine that we have not yet arrived at

-the junction.

-

-At half past three we moved on again and traveled four miles, camped

-at a quarter to six near a bunch of small islands, and a kind of bayou

-projecting from the river. Our course this afternoon a little south of

-west, having come around a considerable bend in the river. The land

-good and good traveling. Wind southeast. Several of the brethren caught

-a number of small fish in the bayou or lake. The feed here is rather

-scanty. Heavy clouds are rising in the west and northwest, and a fair

-prospect for some rain which is much needed. It is now certain that we

-are about fourteen and a half miles above the junction of the north and

-south forks of the Platte, and although we have to make a new road all

-the way, we find no obstacles so far. Brother Woodruff reports that he

-has been beyond the bluffs north of the camp and saw upwards of 200

-wickeups where the Indians have camped very recently.

-

-He found a cured buffalo skin and some pieces of other skins also. The

-hunters killed a two year old buffalo and brought it to camp. Brother

-Orson Pratt reports that when we were five and a half miles back, we

-were in latitude 41° 9' 44".

-

-Thursday, May 13

-

-This morning cold and cloudy, cold enough for overcoats and buffalo

-robes. The buffalo which was killed yesterday was cut up and divided

-this morning amongst the companies of tens. Some feelings are manifest

-this morning between Brothers Thomas Tanner and Aaron Farr on account

-of the former taking the latter prisoner and putting him under a

-guard part of the night. Perhaps Aaron was a little out of order in

-conversing loud after the horn blew for prayers, but I think Brother

-Tanner's angry spirit more blameable. At 9:00 we moved onward nearly

-a west course four miles and at 11:00 stopped to feed teams at a spot

-which is a little better than we generally have. The wind strong from

-north and northeast.

-

-At half past twelve we proceeded on again and traveled till four

-o'clock, distance six and three quarters miles. At this distance we

-arrived at a stream about six rods wide which appears to come from

-the northeast, the water in appearance like the Platte, the bottom of

-the river quick sand. Water in the middle about two feet deep; at the

-sides quite shoal. It appears that travelers have never discovered this

-stream for it is not noticed in any works that we have seen. We crossed

-it without difficulty and camped on its banks. The weather cloudy and

-very cold, with a strong north wind. Presidents Young and Kimball rode

-ahead as usual to look out the road. They report that the bluffs half a

-mile west come clear to the river and are considerably high. They found

-several ranges of them and finally found a valley running between some

-of the ranges through which we can pass by going about a mile around

-from our course. This stream according to measurement, twenty-five and

-one quarter miles above the junction of the two forks and 341 miles

-from Winter Quarters, by estimation. President Young named it the North

-Bluff Fork. A while before we arrived here four of the brethren went to

-chase a few buffalo which were lying down at the foot of the bluffs,

-but they did not get any. Presidents Young and Kimball saw a very large

-rattlesnake near the river. Brother Kimball says the largest he ever

-saw in his life. I saw a small green snake today, very pretty, the back

-light green and the belly a pale yellow. Presidents Young and Kimball

-suffered severely with cold while riding over the bluffs to look for a

-road. Had to use buffalo dung for cooking, there being no timber.

-

-Friday, May 14

-

-The morning cloudy and very cold. In the west could occasionally be

-seen streaks of lightning and distant thunder heard. At 8:00 a.m. the

-dark clouds having approached nearer, it commenced raining pretty

-hard, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The President ordered the

-horses got up just before the rain commenced; and after the storm

-ceased, we started onward at a quarter past ten. After traveling about

-a mile we passed among and around the high bluffs, our course lying

-nearly in a north direction for some time, then turning south and

-on again approaching the river, nearly southeast. When within about

-three quarters of a mile from the river, we stopped to feed at twenty

-minutes to two, having traveled six and a quarter miles. We have got

-on the level bottom again and are probably not more than three miles

-in a direct line from where we started this morning. Presidents Young

-and Kimball went forward to point out the route, which is very good to

-travel, although considerably uneven. Brother Higbee killed an antelope

-and wounded another which made its escape while he was loading his

-rifle. We have better feed here than we have had for some time. We had

-a little more rain just as we came to a halt. We have not had much wind

-this morning but it is now increasing from the north. It is somewhat

-warmer than this morning. The atmosphere cloudy and looks as if we

-might have more rain. The land between the two forks for about 25 miles

-is perfectly flat and very level without timber.

-

-The bluffs there rise suddenly, apparently in a line from fork to

-fork. There are many buffalo back in the valleys between the bluffs,

-and although there is no sign of the prairie having been burned, it

-is evident the buffalo have kept it eaten clean off, but have moved

-back and east, probably since the Indians have been hunting them. Some

-of the brethren have discovered fresh tracks where the Indians have

-gone up this north stream, evidently very lately. But we are satisfied

-the Lord hears the prayers of his servants and sends them out of the

-way before we come up to them. At three o'clock we proceeded on our

-journey, keeping above the lower prairie, which appeared soft and

-swampy. Our road was very uneven. We went two and a half miles and

-at half past four stopped to learn the report of those gone ahead to

-look out the road. There is another high range of bluffs about half

-a mile west of us, extending to the river. Elder Kimball went across

-the several ranges of bluffs to the west side, and hunted for a road

-in various directions, but there did not appear to be any possibility

-of finding a road between the bluffs, without going many miles around.

-President Young and he concluded it would be best to camp where the

-wagons are and in the morning cross right over the bluffs by doubling

-teams. Accordingly the encampment was formed about five-thirty, the

-train having traveled eight and three quarters miles today. Our course

-this afternoon nearly west, wind southeast. The feed for our teams

-grows much better, and on one of these high sandy bluffs I saw a large

-bed of flowers, not unlike the violet, and very rich. The sand on the

-bluffs in some places looks like large drifts of snow, and in other

-places seems to have deep chasms as if wasted by heavy rains. The

-atmosphere is still cloudy but not so cold as it has been. The hunters

-have killed two buffalo, three antelope and one badger during the day,

-which will be very acceptable. It was dark when the hunters returned to

-give the information. The revenue cutter was sent after the meat which

-was reported to be a mile and a half distant. It was late when they

-returned. There was an alarm made by the guard in the night supposing

-the Indians were near. The camp were aroused to secure their horses,

-but we had no further trouble about them.

-

-I discovered that Brother Appleton Harmon is trying to have it

-understood that he invented the machinery to tell the distance we

-travel, which makes me think less of him than I formerly did. He is not

-the inventor of it by a long way, but he has made the machinery, after

-being told how to do it. What little souls work.

-

-Saturday, May 15

-

-This morning is very cloudy and very cold, more like a January morning

-than a May morning. The wind blows strong from the northeast. The

-brethren who killed the buffalo did not bring it to camp last night,

-but put it in the boat and left it till morning. About half past seven

-they brought it in and divided it to the captains of ten. At eight

-o'clock it commenced raining again but abated a little before nine. At

-nine o'clock we commenced moving and after traveling three-quarters of

-a mile began to ascend the sandy bluffs. It commenced raining again and

-it looks like rain for all day. It is very cold, the wind continues

-strong. The road was much of a zig zag over the bluffs, but only about

-a mile before we descended to the bottom. We traveled a piece farther

-and at half past ten o'clock it was considered best to turn out the

-teams until it ceases raining, after traveling two and a quarter miles.

-We found it unnecessary to double teams while crossing the bluffs and

-we got over without difficulty, much better than we had anticipated.

-About noon it again ceased raining and the signal was given to harness

-up teams. At half past twelve we proceeded and traveled till a quarter

-to three, distance four and a half miles, then formed the encampment

-in a circle about a quarter of a mile from the river. The road has

-been level but soft and wet, however not bad traveling. The bluffs are

-about half a mile to the north and several herds of buffalo grazing on

-them. Some of the hunters are gone to try and get some meat. The wind

-still keeps up, and is cold, damp and uncomfortable. The feed appears

-better here than we have had for some days, and the cattle soon fill

-themselves which is a comfort and blessing to the camp. Some of the

-brethren have been lucky enough to pick up a few sticks and dead wood

-but our chief dependence for fuel is dry buffalo dung which abounds

-everywhere, but the rain has injured it some for burning. About two

-miles back we passed a place where the Indians have lately camped

-during their hunt. It is plain that whole families are amongst their

-number as the foot prints and moccasins of children have several times

-been seen. They evidently make use of the buffalo dung for fuel, and

-for seats, they dig up sods and lay them in a circle around their

-fire which is in the center. We have passed a number of these little

-temporary camping spots this afternoon. The reason why we did not

-travel farther was that Elder Kimball being gone ahead to look out the

-road, etc., he found as he came near the next bluffs that the feed is

-all eaten off by the numerous herds of buffalo and found also, that we

-shall have to travel over the bluffs and they appear wide and would be

-impossible for the teams to get over them tonight, hence the necessity

-of stopping here where we have good feed. The soil on this prairie

-looks good and rich but there is no timber. In fact there is none in

-sight, except a small grove on the other side the river about two miles

-west of the camp. Late at night Porter Rockwell came in and reported

-that he killed a buffalo. The cutter was sent for it to bring it to

-camp. Our course this afternoon nearly west.

-

-Sunday, May 16

-

-Morning fine, but chilly and cold. Wind north. Eric Glines killed an

-antelope near the camp which was cut up and distributed. Soon after

-breakfast, President Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff and Benson went on

-horseback to look out the best road over the bluffs. They returned at

-half past twelve and reported that we can pass through a valley between

-and around the bluffs, which will be about four miles across them.

-About 5:00 p.m. several buffalo were seen making their way from the

-bluffs towards our horses, some of which were very near them. Brother

-Eric Glines started out with the intention of driving the buffalo away,

-and bringing the horses nearer camp. When he got near, the buffalo did

-not seem much disposed to move and he shot at one of them and wounded

-him. He moved a little farther and Brother Glines followed him and shot

-three times more at him. The buffalo then ran about forty rods, fell,

-and soon expired. I went to look at him. He is a large one, judged to

-weigh about 700 pounds, and in pretty good order. I left the brethren

-skinning him and returned to camp where a meeting had been called at

-5:00 p.m., and the brethren addressed by Elders Richards, Markham,

-Rockwood and Kimball, chiefly on the subject of obeying counsel, and

-Elder Kimball remarked in regard to hunting on the Sabbath. He would

-not do it even in case of necessity, but he did not feel disposed to

-find fault with the brethren. The laws and regulations for the camp of

-April 18th were then read by Brother Bullock and the meeting dismissed.

-About noon today Brother Appleton Harmon completed the machinery on

-the wagon called a "roadometer" by adding a wheel to revolve once in

-ten miles, showing each mile and also each quarter mile we travel, and

-then casing the whole over so as to secure it from the weather. We are

-now prepared to tell accurately, the distance we travel from day to

-day which will supersede the idea of guessing, and be a satisfaction

-not only to this camp, but to all who hereafter travel this way. I

-have prepared another board to put up here on which the distance from

-Winter Quarters is marked at 356¾ miles. I have also written on it that

-the last seventy miles are measured, and we shall continue to measure

-and put up guide posts as often as circumstances will permit through

-the journey. The whole machinery consists of a shaft about 18 inches

-long placed on gudgeons, one in the axle tree of the wagon, near which

-are six arms placed at equal distances around it, and in which a cog

-works which is fastened on the hub of the wagon wheel, turning the

-shaft once round at every six revolutions of the wagon wheel. The upper

-gudgeon plays in a piece of wood nailed to the wagon box, and near this

-gudgeon on the shaft a screw is cut. The shaft lays at an angle of

-about forty-five degrees. In this screw, a wheel of sixty cogs works on

-an axle fixed in the side of the wagon, and which makes one revolution

-each mile. In the shaft on which this wheel runs, four cogs are cut

-on the fore part which plays in another wheel of forty cogs which

-shows the miles and quarters to ten miles. The whole is cased over and

-occupies a space of about 18 inches long, 15 inches high and 3 inches

-thick.

-

-After the meeting was dismissed, the cutter was sent to fetch the

-meat in, killed by Brother Glines. They soon returned and the meat

-was distributed as usual. Presidents Young and Kimball have walked

-out together towards the bluffs. After supper Elder Whipple made me

-a present of a half a candle made from buffalo tallow, by the light

-of which I continue this journal. Although, as may be expected, the

-buffalo are generally poorer at this season of the year, yet Brother

-Whipple has obtained sufficient to make two candles from his portion

-of meat received yesterday morning. The candle burns very clear and

-pleasant. The tallow smells sweet and rich. I imagine it has a more

-pleasant smell than the tallow of domestic cattle.

-

-Monday, May 17

-

-The morning very cold and chilly, wind northwest. Dr. Richards left

-another letter on the camp ground for the benefit of the next company.

-The letter is secured from the weather by a wooden case, and placed so

-that the brethren can hardly miss finding it.

-

-We started on our journey at 8:13 a.m. After traveling a mile and a

-half, we arrived at the foot of another range of bluffs which extend to

-the river, and began to ascend about a quarter of a mile north from the

-river, the road also turning to the north. A quarter of a mile farther,

-we crossed a stream of spring water about three feet wide. The road for

-a little distance on both sides the stream is rough, sandy and crooked.

-We then turned westward, and passed over a number of bluffs as there

-was no chance to go around them without going miles out of our course.

-On these sandy bluffs, there are very many small lizards about four or

-five inches long from nose to the end of the tail, which is an inch and

-a half long. The body looks short and chunky and is of a light grey

-color with two rows of dark brown spots on each side of the body which

-make it appear striped. The head is shaped something like the head of

-a snake. They appear perfectly harmless and are pretty in appearance.

-After traveling two and a quarter miles beyond the last mentioned

-stream, we arrived at the west foot of the bluffs. The last part of the

-road very sandy and there are several very steep places of descent.

-However all the teams got safely over without difficulty. At the west

-foot of the bluffs, there appears more grass than anywhere we have

-yet been, although the buffalo have eaten it off considerably. Within

-a quarter of a mile from the bluffs, we crossed two small streams of

-spring water and at a mile from the foot of the bluffs, we crossed a

-stream of spring water about four feet wide with a very rapid current.

-The whole of this bottom seems full of springs and we have to keep near

-the bluffs to make a good road to travel, and in fact, we find it more

-or less soft and springy even close to the bluffs. A mile and a quarter

-west of the last mentioned spring is another small stream of very clear

-spring water. The others are rather muddy by running over sandy land.

-They all appear to have their rise in the bluffs a short distance from

-our road. At 11:35 we stopped to feed having traveled this morning,

-six and three quarters miles. Our course west, weather fine, warm, and

-little wind. While we were resting, one of President Young's horses

-(in care of Phineas) mired down in a soft slough. A number of men soon

-collected and with a rope dragged it out, washed and rubbed it, and all

-was well again. Latitude 41° 12' 50".

-

-At two o'clock, we proceeded onward. After traveling a half a mile, we

-arrived at a very shoal stream of clear water about thirty feet wide

-but not over three inches deep in the channel which is about three feet

-wide. We forded it very easily and then passed over a short range of

-low sandy bluffs about a quarter of a mile wide and then entered on

-level prairie again, but we found it very soft and springy. Within two

-and a half miles from the last mentioned stream we passed two others,

-one very small, the other about four feet wide. They both doubtless

-rise from springs at the foot of the bluffs. About ten minutes after

-three o'clock, word arrived that a buffalo was killed by the hunters

-about a mile from the road. Two men were sent to skin and dress it.

-About the same time the revenue cutter arrived with two more buffalo,

-one said to have been killed by Luke Johnson and the other by John

-Brown, also an antelope killed by Amasa Lyman. The wagons halted at

-a quarter to four, took the meat out of the boat, which immediately

-returned to fetch the other buffalo which was killed by Porter

-Rockwell. The meat was cut in quarters and put into the wagons and at

-half past four o'clock we again moved onward and traveled till 5:50

-p.m. and camped on a nice dry bottom prairie where the grass is shorter

-than that we have passed all day. We traveled this afternoon six miles

-and during the day twelve and three quarters, about a west course. We

-are some distance from water but several wells were soon dug and good

-water obtained at about four feet deep. Soon after we camped the boat

-came in with the other buffalo and the meat was all distributed equally

-around the camp, but it appears that some have already got more than

-they need and feel unwilling to take a good forequarter. The bluffs

-on the opposite side the river project to the river for some distance

-opposite this place. Latitude 41° 13' 20".

-

-Tuesday, May 18

-

-The morning fine and very pleasant. At seven o'clock the President

-called the captains of tens to his wagons and gave them a pretty severe

-lecture. He referred to some who had left meat on the ground and would

-not use it because it was not hind quarter. Some would murmur because

-a fore quarter of meat was alloted to them, etc., which is not right,

-for God has given us a commandment that we should not waste meat, nor

-take life unless it is needful, but he can see a disposition in this

-camp to slaughter everything before them, yea if all the buffalo and

-game there is on our route were brought together to the camp, there are

-some who would never cease until they had destroyed the whole. Some men

-will shoot as much as thirty times at a rabbit if they did not kill it,

-and are continually wasting their ammunition, but when they have used

-all they have got, they may have the pleasure of carrying their empty

-guns to the mountains and back, for he will not furnish them. We have

-now meat enough to last some time if we will take proper care of it. As

-to the horsemen, there are none with the exception of Brothers Kimball,

-Woodruff and Benson, that ever take the trouble to look out a good road

-for the wagons but all they seem to care about is to wait till their

-breakfast is cooked for them, and when they have eaten it, they mount

-their horses and scatter away, and if an antelope comes across the

-track, the whole of us must be stopped perhaps half an hour while they

-try to creep up near enough to kill it, but when we come to a bad place

-on the route, all the interest they have is to get across the best

-they can and leave myself and one or two others to pick out a crossing

-place and guide the camp all the time. Such things are not right, and

-he wants them to cease and all take an interest in the welfare of the

-camp, be united, and receive the meat as a blessing from God and not as

-a stink offering from the devil. It is not necessary to preach to the

-elders in this camp, they know what is right as well as he does, and he

-will not preach to them all the time. Let the captains do the best they

-know how and teach their men to do likewise. The meeting dispersed,

-the meat was taken care of and at a quarter past eight we started out

-again, and traveled three and a quarter miles nearly a west course

-over a very hard prairie and good traveling and then arrived at a nice

-stream, Rattlesnake creek, about twenty or twenty-five feet wide, a

-foot or 18 inches deep and a very strong current. This stream must take

-its rise some distance back in the bluffs or else is supplied from many

-strong springs, for there is much water comes down it. We traveled on

-from this near the bank of the river about a northwest course over

-tolerably rough land till 11:10 and then stopped to feed having come

-six and a half miles this morning, the weather very hot. Opposite the

-stream last mentioned on the south side the river, are several pine

-groves, or rather cedar groves. There is some little pine wood, such

-as knots and dead branches that can be picked up on the banks of the

-river. It has floated from above. This, with a little buffalo chips,

-makes a good fire for cooking. Latitude noon 41° 3' 44". Rattlesnake

-creek was so named from the following incident: President Young, as he

-rode up to the banks of the creek discovered that his horse stepped

-within a foot of a very large rattlesnake. He turned his horse away

-without harming it. Soon afterward, one of the brethren came up on foot

-and stepped within two feet and a half of it. It immediately coiled up

-and sprang at him and would have struck him (as it sprang 2½ feet) had

-he not jumped to one side. He took his rifle and shot the snake dead.

-

-The head of Cedar Bluffs, as named by Fremont, is three miles west of

-where we camped last night. At 1:05 p.m. we continued our journey.

-Our route lay near the banks of the river which seems narrower here.

-After traveling three and a half miles, we crossed a stream about six

-feet wide, and three quarters of a mile farther another stream of

-tolerably deep, clear water about five feet wide. This stream is very

-crooked and seems to run from the bluffs to the river in a perfect

-serpentine or zig zag direction. Soon after starting this afternoon, we

-discovered some dog towns, the grass eaten perfectly bare all around.

-The feed is growing worse again, evidently eaten up by the buffalo. At

-noon, a heavy black cloud arose in the west and we had a little rain,

-accompanied by lightning and distant thunder. After passing the last

-mentioned creek about a mile, we had to change our course to nearly

-northwest on account of a bend in the river. We traveled till 5:30

-and formed our encampment on the west bank of a running stream about

-eight feet wide and one foot deep which is five miles from the crooked

-creek, making our afternoon's travel nine and a quarter miles and the

-day's travel fifteen and three quarters. The bluffs and the river here

-are about a quarter of a mile apart, the river very wide, feed poor,

-plenty of float wood, pine and cedar, for fuel. The weather calm and

-warm, though cloudy. After encampment was formed, went with Elder Orson

-Pratt to Dr. Richards' wagon to enter into arrangements for making

-a map of our route. The doctor wants me to do it, assisted by Elder

-Pratt's observations. He handed me Fremont's map, and I retired to my

-wagon to commence operations, but soon found that the map does not

-agree with my scale nor Elder Pratt's calculations. I then proposed to

-Elder Pratt to wait until we get through the journey and take all the

-necessary data and then make a new one instead of making our route on

-Fremont's. The subject is left here till morning. After supper I took

-my candle and finished this day's journal. At dark Colonel Markham

-called the camp together to tell the brethren their duty in regard

-to traveling, guarding teams, and standing guard at nights. The old

-laws of April 18th were talked over and additional by-laws added, but

-not being present I did not hear them, neither can I learn anything

-from those who were present, for they all say that there were so many

-little matters touched upon, and so many resolutions passed that they

-remembered only one--and that is, when any man goes out of the

-sound of the horn to fetch in his team, and sees another man's horse

-or mule or ox, a little beyond or near his, he shall drive it also to

-camp, and if he neglect to do so, he shall be sent back to do it even

-if it requires an escort to make him. About seven o'clock the wind

-shifted around to the north and blew strong and cold.

-

-Wednesday, May 19

-

-It has rained a little most of the night and still looks gloomy, cloudy

-and like for a rainy day. Inasmuch as the feed is not good here, it

-was thought best to move on before breakfast a few miles and seek

-better feed. We started out at 5:05, the second division having the

-right to lead, but a part of the first division being ready a little

-before all the second were ready, they rushed on their teams, drove

-fast and those of the second division behind had to leave the track

-and run their teams to take their places. We traveled two and three

-quarters miles, our course eleven and one fourth degrees north of west,

-and then crossed a stream three feet wide, and one quarter of a mile

-farther crossed another four feet wide. Our route lay within about

-one quarter of a mile from the bluffs and a mile from the river which

-takes a bend south from where we camped last night and runs close to

-the bluffs on the south side. We then turned our course to a little

-west of northwest as the river bends again to the bluffs on this side,

-and traveled a quarter of a mile farther and halted for breakfast at

-6:20, having traveled three and a quarter miles. The main body of the

-camp have stopped a quarter of a mile back, being three miles from

-where we started this morning. The road is mostly sandy, tall grass of

-last year's growth. The two streams we passed seem to form many ponds

-of clear water extending at short distances from each other from the

-bluffs to the river. Elder Kimball has been ahead over the bluffs to

-look out the road. It continues to rain a little occasionally with

-light north wind. Elder Kimball found that the bluffs project entirely

-to the river and are very sandy, but we can cross them without going

-out of our course. At twenty minutes to nine, we proceeded onward a

-little and then waited till the rest of the wagons came up. At the

-distance of nearly a mile and a half, we crossed a stream about twenty

-feet wide, not very deep, neither very good to cross, and exactly at

-the distance of a mile and a half, we arrived at the foot of the bluffs

-and began to ascend without doubling teams. Some of the teams stuck by,

-but by the assistance of the extra men, they all got up. The bluffs

-are very high, sandy and rough, and the sand cuts down considerably,

-making it heavy on teams. These bluffs are three quarters of a mile

-from the east foot to the west foot following our trail which is nearly

-straight. About 200 yards from the west foot of the bluffs, we crossed

-another stream five feet wide. It has rained heavily all the time

-since we started after breakfast and continues. Consequently at half

-past ten the camp formed into platoons and then halted to wait for

-more favorable weather, having traveled six miles today over the worst

-road we have had from Winter Quarters, rendered worse, doubtless, by

-the heavy rains. About half past two the weather looked a little more

-favorable and orders were given to move on. We started at five minutes

-to three, about which time it again rained heavily. We traveled two

-miles and then formed our encampment in a semi-circle on the banks of

-the river, having traveled two miles and through the day, eight miles.

-The first mile this evening was over very soft prairie, the last hard

-and good. The rain still continues to pour down heavily and this has

-been the most uncomfortable day we have had and the hardest on our

-teams. The brethren, however, feel well and cheerful. The ox teams are

-improving in their condition, but the horses do not stand it as well.

-The stream at the east foot of the last mentioned bluffs was named

-Wolf creek from the following circumstance: When Elder Kimball went

-ahead this morning to search out a road, he went up the creek about a

-mile and around over the bluffs to find, if possible, a better road

-than the one close to the river. While he was searching, about a mile

-north from the river he went down into a deep hollow surrounded by high

-bluffs and as he was riding along at the bottom, he turned his head

-to the left and saw two very large wolves at about five rods distance

-gazing at him. One of them he said was nearly as large as a two year

-old steer. When he saw these he looked around on the other side and saw

-several others about the same distance from him, very large ones, and

-all gazing fiercely at him. This startled him considerably, and more

-especially when he reflected that he had no arms. He made a noise to

-try to scare them away but they still stood, and he concluded to move

-away as soon as he could. They did not follow him and he saw a dead

-carcass near, which satisfied him that he had interrupted their repast.

-On mentioning this circumstance to President Young, they named the

-creek "Wolf Creek." He traveled back and forth over ten miles searching

-out a road before breakfast. He also went out again afterwards and

-got badly wet. He then concluded to change his clothing and remain

-in his wagon. The evening is very cool and cloudy with wind from the

-northeast. The rain had ceased about six o'clock, but it still looks

-stormy.

-

-Thursday, May 20

-

-The morning fair, but cloudy, light wind from northwest and cold. At

-7:45 we started out again but had not traveled over a quarter of a

-mile before the roadometer gave way on account of the rain yesterday

-having caused the wood to swell and stick fast. One of the cogs in

-the small wheel broke. We stopped about a half an hour and Appleton

-Harmon took it to pieces and put it up again without the small wheel.

-I had to count each mile after this. Three quarters of a mile from

-where we camped, we crossed a creek eight feet wide and two and a half

-feet deep. We then changed our course to about southwest a mile or so

-following the banks of the river, as the ground was wet and swampy

-nearer the bluffs. The river then winds around about three miles in a

-bend and then strikes a little north of west. The bluffs on the north

-appear to be about two miles from the river. We traveled till 11:15 and

-then halted to feed, having traveled seven and three quarters miles

-over tolerably good road, though at the commencement somewhat soft. On

-the opposite side the river, the bluffs project near its banks. They

-are rocky and almost perpendicular, beautified for miles by groves of

-cedar. Opposite to where we are halted, we can see a ravine running up

-the bluffs and at the foot, a flat bottom of about fifteen acres. At

-the farther side of this bottom is a grove of trees not yet in leaf.

-Brother Brown thinks they are ash and that the place is what is called

-Ash Hollow and on Fremont's map, Ash Creek. We all felt anxious to

-ascertain the fact whether this is Ash Hollow or not, for if it is,

-the Oregon trail strikes the river at this place, and if it can be

-ascertained that such is the fact, we then have a better privilege of

-testing Fremont's distances to Laramie. We have already discovered that

-his map is not altogether correct in several respects, and particularly

-in showing the windings of the river and the distance of the bluffs

-from it. I suggested the propriety of some persons going over in the

-boat and Brother John Brown suggested it to President Young. The

-boat was soon hauled by the brethren to the river, and Orson Pratt,

-Amasa Lyman, Luke Johnson and John Brown started to row over, but the

-current was so exceedingly strong the oars had no effect. John Brown

-then jumped into the river which was about two and a half feet deep

-and dragged the boat over, the others assisting with the oars. After

-some hard labor they arrived on the opposite shore and went to the

-hollow. They soon found the Oregon trail and ascertained that this is

-Ash Hollow, Brother Brown having traveled on that road to near Laramie

-last season with the Mississippi company and knew the place perfectly

-well. They gathered some branches of wild cherry in full bloom, rambled

-over the place a little while and then returned to camp. About the same

-time the camp prepared to pursue their journey. The brethren arrived

-and made their report, and at 1:45 p.m. we proceeded onward. From the

-appearance of the bluffs ahead, our course this afternoon will be west

-and northwest. A light breeze from northwest. Soon after we started,

-one of the brethren killed a large rattlesnake within a rod of the road

-made by the wagons and on the side where the cows travel. He killed it

-to prevent its injuring the cows and threw it away from the road. In

-the river one and a quarter miles above Ash Hollow, there are several

-small islands on which grow many trees of cedar. One of these islands

-is perfectly green over with cedar and looks beautiful. The bluffs also

-on the south side the river continue to be lined with cedar apparently

-for two miles yet and are very high and almost perpendicular, running

-pretty close to the river. On this side the river, the bluffs seem to

-bear farther to the north, being apparently about three miles from the

-river, and a few miles farther west they are as much as five miles from

-the river. After traveling three and a quarter miles from the noon

-stop, we crossed a tributary stream running into the Platte, in a very

-crooked direction, being from four to eight rods wide and two and a

-half feet deep most of the way across, the bottom quick sand, current

-rapid and water of sandy color like the Platte. Some had to double

-teams to get over, but all got over safely. We proceeded on about four

-miles farther and found that the river bends considerably to the north.

-The bluffs also bend to the south, so that the low bluffs in front

-almost reach the banks only barely leaving room for a road. We went

-a little farther and camped for the night at half past five, having

-traveled this afternoon eight miles, making fifteen and three quarters

-miles during the day. Elder Kimball and several others went forward

-on horses to pick out our road as usual. I have seen several kinds of

-herbs growing today which appear new to me. One looks like penny royal,

-smells almost like it, but tastes hot and like the oil of cloves.

-Elder Kimball and others saw a very large wolf about half a mile west,

-and he appeared to be following them to camp. They turned and rode up

-to him and round him, struck their pistols at him, but they did not

-go off, being damp. He finally made his escape. The large stream we

-crossed this afternoon is named Castle Creek from the bluffs on the

-opposite side which much resemble the rock on which Lancaster Castle is

-built. The bluffs are named Castle Bluffs. We had a light shower this

-afternoon, but the evening is fine though very cool.

-

-Friday, May 21

-

-The morning very fine and pleasant though tolerably cold. I put up

-a guide board at this place with the following inscriptions on it:

-"From Winter Quarters 409 miles. From the junction of the North and

-South Forks, 93¼ miles. From Cedar Bluffs, south side the river, 36½

-miles. Ash Hollow, south side the river, 8 miles. Camp of Pioneers May

-21, 1847. According to Fremont, this place is 132 miles from Laramie.

-N. B. The bluffs opposite are named Castle Bluffs." At 7:35 we

-continued our journey. We found the prairie tolerably wet, many ponds

-of water standing which must have been caused by a heavy fall of

-rain, much more heavy than we had back. However, it was not very bad

-traveling. We made a pretty straight road this morning at about the

-distance of a mile from the river. The bluffs on the north appear to

-be five miles or over from our road. At 11:15 we halted for dinner,

-having traveled nearly seven and three quarters miles, course north

-of northwest, very warm and no wind. Presidents Young and Kimball

-rode forward to pick the road, and near this place they saw a nest of

-wolves, caught and killed two with sticks. Four or five others escaped

-to their hole. At half past one we proceeded onward and found the

-prairie wet, and grass high of last year's growth. After traveling four

-and three quarters miles we arrived at a range of low bluffs projecting

-to the river, which at this place bends to the north. There is,

-however, bottom of about a rod wide between the bluffs and the river,

-but as it is wet and soft, it was preferred to cross over the bluffs by

-bending a little more to the north. We traveled on the bluffs a little

-over a quarter of a mile and then turned on the bottom again. The

-bluffs are low and almost as level as the bottom. After we crossed the

-bluffs we found the road better. We saw about a mile this side of the

-foot of the bluffs, a very large bone almost petrified into stone. Most

-of the brethren believe it to be the shoulder bone of a mammoth, and is

-very large indeed. About this time a badger was brought to the wagons

-which Brother Woodruff had killed. As I was walking along and looking

-over the river, I heard a rattlesnake, and looking down saw that I had

-stepped within a foot of it. It rattled hard but seemed to make away.

-We threw it away from the track without killing it. At five o'clock

-Elder Kimball rode up and stopped the forward teams till the last ones

-got nearer saying that some Indians had come down from the bluffs to

-the brethren ahead. When the rest of the wagons came up we moved on a

-quarter of a mile farther and at half past five formed our encampment

-in a circle with the wagons close together as possible, having traveled

-seven and three quarters miles this afternoon, making fifteen and a

-half through the day. As the camp was forming the two Indians came

-nearer, being a man and his squaw. They represented by signs that they

-were Sioux and that a party of them are now on the bluffs north of us

-and not far distant. By the aid of glasses we could see several on

-the bluffs with their ponies, evidently watching our movements. This

-man was hunting when first seen and appeared afraid when he saw the

-brethren. The squaw fled for the bluffs as fast as her horse could go,

-but by signs made to them they gathered courage and came up. President

-Young gave orders not to bring them into camp, and they soon rode off

-to the bluffs. The man has got a good cloth coat on and appears well

-dressed. The horses they rode are said to be work horses which makes

-us suspect they have stolen them from travelers. The day has been

-very warm and some of the teams gave out. We can see some timber on

-the bluffs on the other side of the river some miles ahead which is

-the first timber we have seen for more than a week, except some small

-cedar and the timber in Ash Hollow, all on the south side the river.

-We are nearly a mile from water and the brethren have to dig wells to

-obtain a supply for cooking. The feed here is very poor, not much but

-old grass. Our course this afternoon has been a little north of west.

-Lorenzo Young shot two very large ducks with one ball and brought them

-to camp. Elder Kimball proposed tonight that I should leave a number of

-pages for so much of his journal as I am behind in copying and start

-from the present and keep it up daily. He furnished me a candle and I

-wrote the journal of this day's travel by candle light in his journal,

-leaving fifty-six pages blank. The evening was very fine and pleasant.

-The latitude at noon halt 41° 24' 5".

-

-Saturday, May 22

-

-Morning beautiful, no wind and warm. We have not been disturbed by

-the Indians; all is peace in the camp. At eight o'clock we continued

-our journey, making a more crooked road than usual, having to bend

-south to near the banks of the river. The prairie somewhat soft and a

-little uneven. After traveling five and a half miles we crossed a very

-shoal creek about twenty feet wide. The bluffs and river about a mile

-apart, but on the other side, the bluffs recede two miles back from

-the river and have lost their craggy and steep appearance, the ascent

-being gradual, while on this side they begin to be rocky, cragged and

-almost perpendicular though not very high. We traveled till half past

-eleven and then halted for noon, having traveled seven and a quarter

-miles, the road on this side the creek being better. Our course about

-west of northwest with a light breeze from the east. Elder Kimball and

-others ahead as usual. The creek above mentioned was named Crab Creek

-because some of the brethren saw a very large crab in it. A mile east

-of this creek is a dry creek, down which, from appearances, a heavy

-stream runs at some seasons of the year, perhaps during heavy storms.

-The water running from the bluffs swells it to a considerable height

-and it is certain there are tremendous storms here. A while after we

-halted, Porter Rockwell came in and said he had been on the high bluff

-about a mile northwest of us and had seen the rock called Chimney Rock

-which appeared a long distance off. We have been in hopes to come in

-sight of it today and feel anxious in order to ascertain more certainly

-the correctness of Fremont's distance. In order to satisfy myself,

-although my feet were blistered and very sore, I determined to take my

-telescope and go on the bluff to ascertain for myself whether the noted

-rock could be seen or not. At half past twelve I started out alone. I

-found the distance to the foot of the bluff a good mile, the ascent

-gradual. From the foot the bluff looks very high and rough, many huge

-rocks having broken from the summit from time to time and rolled down a

-long distance. I found the ascent very steep and lengthy in comparison

-to its appearance from camp. When I arrived on the top I found a nice

-slightly arched surface of about a quarter of an acre in extent, but

-barren and very little grass on it. Huge comparatively smooth rocks

-peeped through the surface on one of which I wrote with red chalk:

-"Wm. Clayton. May 22, 1847." On the highest point I sat down and took

-a view of the surrounding country which is magnificent indeed. On the

-south at the distance of two miles from the river, there is a range of

-cedar trees on the bluffs which very much resemble some of the parks

-and seats of gentry in England. East I could see where we camped last

-night, the high grass still burning. Northeast, north, and northwest,

-alternately, appeared high swelling bluffs and valleys as far as the

-eye could see or the glass magnify. West, the course of the Platte for

-ten or fifteen miles and at about four or five miles distance, a large

-bend to the north brings it in contact with the bluffs on this side.

-At the distance, I should judge of about twenty miles, I could see

-Chimney Rock very plainly with the naked eye, which from here very much

-resembles the large factory chimneys in England, although I could not

-see the form of its base. The rock lay about due west from here. After

-gratifying my curiosity, and seeing the men collecting their teams

-for a march, I descended on the west side of the bluff. The descent

-at this point looks more alarming than on the other. The side being

-very steep and all along huge rocks standing so critically, that to

-all appearance, a waft of wind would precipitate them to the prairie

-below with tremendous force. In one place in particular, a ponderous

-mass of rock appears to hang from the edge of the bluff without any

-visible means of being retained in its position, and by gazing at it

-a little while, it is easy to imagine you can see it move and ready

-to overwhelm you instantly. At a little distance from the base of the

-bluff, I turned to gaze on the romantic scenery above and was struck at

-the appearance of a large rock projecting from one corner, which very

-much resembled a frog's head of immense size with its mouth part open.

-The thought was, those bluffs ought to be named and what name more

-appropriate than Frog's Head Bluffs. After this reflection, I walked on

-to where I thought the wagons would come which started out at half past

-one. After traveling three and a quarter miles we crossed a dry creek

-about six rods wide, and a quarter of a mile farther, another about

-five feet wide and a half a mile farther, still another about six rods

-wide on an average. These all appear to be the sources of heavy streams

-of water at some seasons of the year. Soon as we crossed this last

-one, I saw Elder Kimball wave his hat for the wagons to turn off to

-the north in order to cross the bluffs which struck the river a little

-farther. But a little to the west was a very high ridge and I concluded

-to walk on to it. Found it to be a perfect ridge of gravel, very high

-and rounding on the top, not more than four or five feet wide and from

-north to south about 150 feet long. Elder Pratt names this Cobble

-Hills, the gravel or cobbles varying in size of from fifty pounds in

-weight to the smallest pebble. At the north foot of this hill is what

-might be named a clay bank, being composed of a light colored kind of

-sandy clay and forms a kind of large table. A little distance farther,

-we crossed another dry creek about eight rods wide and then ascended

-the bluffs. The ascent is pretty steep for nearly half a mile, but

-hard and not difficult to travel. The wagon had to wind about some to

-keep around the foot of the bluffs, crossing the dry creek three times

-before we emerged from the bluffs to the banks of the river. We crossed

-another dry creek pretty steep on each side and then found ourselves

-once more on the prairie bottom. The bluffs are two and a quarter

-miles from the east to the west foot following our trail. The wind has

-blown from the southeast all day until lately, when a dead calm has

-succeeded. In the west a heavy thunder cloud has been gathering for

-two hours and vivid streaks of lightning observed in the distance. At

-twenty minutes to five the wind struck suddenly from the northwest, the

-blackest part of the cloud then lying in that direction. We had a few

-drops of rain only. Then it seemed to turn off to the east. The scenery

-after this was indeed sublime, the sun peering out from under the heavy

-clouds reflecting long rays upwards which were imitated in the east.

-The romantic bluffs on the north and the lightning playing in the

-southeast all tended to fill my mind with pleasant reflections, on the

-goodness and majesty of the Creator and Governor of the universe, and

-the beauty of the works of his hands. At 5:45 we formed our encampment

-in a circle within a quarter of a mile of the banks of the river,

-having traveled this afternoon, eight and a quarter miles and through

-the day fifteen and a half, making the distance from Winter Quarters

-440 miles in five weeks and three and a half days. The feed on the

-lower bench of the prairie is tolerably good, while the higher land is

-quite bare. We have noticed today a great many petrified bones, some

-very large. All are turned into solid, hard stone, which proves that

-the atmosphere is pure and the country would doubtless be healthy, but

-is not adapted for farming purposes on account of the poor sandy soil

-and no timber at all on this side the river. I have noticed a variety

-of shrubs, plants and flowers all new to me today, many of which have

-a very pleasant smell and in some places the air appears impregnated

-with the rich odors arising from them. Among the rest are numerous

-beds of the southern wood. There are also vast beds of flinty pebbles

-of various colors, some as white as alabaster. About 6:30 I observed a

-group of brethren standing together inside the camp. I went up and saw

-a young eagle which had been taken out of its nest on one of these high

-bluffs by George R. Grant and Orson Whitney. Although it is very young

-and its feathers have scarcely commenced growing, it measures from the

-tips of its wings when stretched, forty-six inches. Its head is nearly

-the size of my fist and looks very ferocious. After this I went with

-John Pack and Horace Whitney to the bluffs. On our way we saw a large

-wolf about as large as the largest dog in camp. He was within a quarter

-of a mile from camp. After traveling about a mile we arrived at the

-foot of a stupendous mass of rocks almost perpendicular, with only one

-place where it was possible to ascend. We went up with difficulty and

-by using our hands and knees, gained the top. We had to walk over a

-little space which was only about three feet wide and on the east side

-a perpendicular fall of about sixty feet. Although from the camp this

-peak looks only large enough for a man to stand upon we found it large

-enough to seat comfortably about twenty persons. The top is composed of

-large rocks and very uneven. The prairie below looks a long distance

-under foot from this peak. Descending we viewed the surrounding scenery

-which looks more like the ruins of an ancient city with its castles,

-towers, fortifications, etc., on all sides, and a dry stream coming

-through the center. We proceeded to the next high rock and found it

-very difficult of ascent. The top is nearly level and very pleasant. We

-discovered several other varieties of shrubbery, all smelling pleasant

-and strong. We saw that a horse has sometime stood on the top, but how

-he got there, we could not easily determine. At the east end there is

-a cedar tree flat on the top and on the underside almost looks like an

-umbrella. We made a calculation of the height of this bluff as well as

-we could and concluded it must be at least 200 feet higher than the

-river. The surrounding country can be seen for many miles from its

-summit, and Chimney Rock shows very plainly. We descended at the east

-end and arrived in camp at dark well satisfied with our journey. Some

-of the brethren have discovered a cave in one of these bluffs, and one

-went into it a little distance, but it being very dark and having no

-torch, he did not venture far. Elder Pratt reports that he saw on the

-top of one of the bluffs, a hole in a rock 15 inches in diameter and a

-foot deep with five inches of very cold good water in it. He supposed

-it to be a spring. Between the bluffs they also discovered a spring of

-pure cold water of a very good taste. Dr. Richards names these bluffs

-"Bluff Ruins" from their appearance being that of the ruins of castles,

-cities, etc. A little to the left is a small perpendicular rock much

-resembling Chimney Rock but smaller. The whole of the scenery around

-is one of romantic beauty which cannot be described with either pen or

-tongue. Last night a large black dog, half wolf, supposed to belong to

-the Indians, came to the camp. He has kept within two hundred yards of

-the wagons all day, and has followed us to this place. There have been

-many rattlesnakes seen today and six or seven killed. In fact, this

-place seems to abound with them. The evening was spent very joyfully by

-most of the brethren, it being very pleasant and moonlight. A number

-danced till the bugle sounded for bed time at nine o'clock. A mock

-trial was also prosecuted in the case of the camp vs. James Davenport

-for blockading the highway and turning ladies out of their course.

-Jackson Redding acted as the presiding judge. Elder Whipple attorney

-for defendant and Luke Johnson attorney for the people. We have many

-such trials in the camp which are amusing enough and tend among other

-things to pass away the time cheerfully during leisure moments. It was

-remarked this evening that we have one man in camp who is entitled to

-the credit of being more even tempered than any of the others, and that

-is Father Chamberlain. He is invariably cross and quarrelsome, but the

-brethren all take it as a joke and he makes considerable amusement for

-the camp. Opposite the encampment there are quite a number of small

-islands, but no timber on any of them.

-

-Sunday, May 23

-

-The morning very fine and pleasant. Brother Egan commenced washing

-very early on the banks of the river. He kindly volunteered to wash my

-dirty clothing which I accepted as a favor. After breakfast President

-Young, Elders Kimball, Richards, Pratt, Woodruff, Smith and Benson and

-Lyman walked out to view Bluff Ruins and returned at half past eleven.

-A while ago I went out a little distance to view an adder which George

-Billings had discovered. It was a dark brown color about 18 inches

-long and three quarters of an inch thick through the body. They are

-represented as very poisonous. About eleven o'clock Nathaniel Fairbanks

-came into camp having been bitten in the leg by a rattlesnake. He went

-on the bluffs with Aaron Farr and Brother Rolf and as they jumped off

-from the bluff, the snake bit him, the others having jumped over him

-farther. He said that in two minutes after he was bitten his tongue

-began to prick and feel numb. When he got to camp his tongue and

-hands pricked and felt numb as a person feels their feet sometimes

-when they are said to be asleep. The brethren immediately applied

-some tobacco juice and leaves, also turpentine, and bound tobacco on

-his leg which was considerably swollen. We laid hands on him and Luke

-Johnson administered a dose of lobelia in number six after he had taken

-a strong drink of alcohol and water. The lobelia soon vomitted him

-powerfully. He complains much of sickness at his stomach and dimness

-in his eyes. He appears to be in much pain. While the brethren of the

-quorum of the twelve were on one of the high detached bluffs they found

-the skeleton of a buffalo's head. Brother Woodruff wrote the names of

-all the quorum of the twelve present and set it upon the southwest

-corner of the bluff. John Brown also wrote his name on it. Elder Pratt

-took the altitude of the bluff and found it to be 235 feet above the

-surface of the river. He did not calculate the height above the sea,

-owing to the state of the atmosphere. He, however, predicted wind from

-the same cause. At twelve o'clock the camp was called together for

-meeting, and after singing and praying we were addressed by Elder Snow,

-followed by President Young. The latter said there were many items of

-doctrine which he often felt like teaching to the brethren, but as

-to administering sealing ordinances, etc., this is no time or place

-for them, they belong to the house of God and when we get located we

-shall have an opportunity to build a house, etc. He expressed himself

-satisfied with the conduct of the camp in general. He is pleased to

-see so much union and disposition to obey council among the brethren

-and hoped and prayed that it may continue and increase. He wants the

-brethren to seek after knowledge and be faithful to acknowledge God in

-all things but never take his name in vain nor use profane language.

-If all the knowledge in this camp were put together and brother Joseph

-were here in our midst, he could comprehend the whole of it and wind it

-around his little finger. And then think of the knowledge of angels,

-and above that, the knowledge of the Lord. There is much for us to

-learn and a faithful man who desires eternal glory will seek after

-knowledge all the time and his ideas never suffered to rust but are

-always bright. He will not throw away the knowledge of small things

-because they are familiar, but grasp all he can and keep doing so and

-by retaining many small things he will thus gain a large pile, etc.

-He expressed his feelings warmly towards all the brethren and prayed

-them to be faithful, diligent and upright, for we are now sowing seed,

-the fruit of which will be plucked in after days whether good or

-bad. G. A. Smith made a few remarks, also several others of the

-brethren. The president then stated that on Sunday next he wants the

-brethren to understand that there will be meeting at eleven o'clock and

-the sacrament administered, and he wants the brethren to attend, all

-that can, and not ramble off and fatigue themselves but use the Sabbath

-as a day of rest. He enjoined it upon Bishops T. Lewis, S. Roundy,

-J. S. Higbee and A. Everett to see that the proper necessities

-were prepared for the sacrament. The meeting was then dismissed. A

-while after meeting I walked out with Elder Kimball a piece from

-the camp. We sat down and I read to him my journal of the last four

-days, with which he seemed well pleased. We then knelt down together

-and poured out our souls to God for ourselves, the camp and our dear

-families in Winter Quarters. While we were engaged in prayer the wind

-rose suddenly from the northwest, a heavy cloud having been gathering

-from the west all the afternoon. A sudden gust struck Elder Kimball's

-hat and carried it off. After we got through, his hat was nowhere in

-sight, but following the direction of the wind we soon saw it at a

-distance on the bottom of the prairie still flying swiftly. We both ran

-and chased it about three quarters of a mile and caught it a little

-from the river. While we were out together I remarked that the buffalo

-gnat had bitten us very severely. Elder Kimball said they bit him very

-badly last evening. Their bite is very poisonous, and although they

-are extremely small, they punish a person very much with an itching,

-aching pain like a mosquito bite. About five o'clock the wind blew a

-perfect gale and continued till seven when it commenced to rain very

-heavily, large drops descending, accompanied with hail, which however,

-did not continue very long but the wind continued nearly all night.

-The lightning and thunder continued some time but not very severe. We

-saw the necessity of having good stout bows to our wagons, and the

-covers well fastened down, for the very stoutest seemed in danger of

-being torn to pieces and the wagons blown over. When the wind commenced

-blowing so strongly it turned very cold and long before dark I went to

-bed to keep warm. Brother Fairbanks seems considerably better. This

-evening President Young, Kimball and Benson laid hands on him and he

-seemed much better afterwards.

-

-Monday, May 24

-

-The morning very cold indeed, strong wind from northwest. At 8:25 we

-continued our journey and traveled over level prairie ten miles, then

-halted to feed at 12:45. The bluffs on the north about two miles from

-us and the river one mile. About noon the weather began to moderate

-and grow warmer. While we were resting two Indians came to camp, their

-object evidently being to get the dog which has followed us to this

-place. They tarried a little while and then went away taking the dog

-with them. At 3:00 p.m., we again proceeded and traveled till 6:00

-p.m., distance six and a half miles, during the day 16½. Several of

-the horse teams gave out and they are evidently failing but the oxen

-are gaining daily. The mules stand the journey well and in fact all

-the teams, considering the scarcity of grass. About 5:30 we discovered

-a party of Indians on the opposite side the river moving west. When

-we formed our encampment they crossed over the river. Some of the

-brethren went to meet them carrying a white flag with them. When the

-Indians saw the flag, some of them began to sing, and their chief held

-up a U. S. flag. It was soon ascertained that their object was to

-obtain something to eat. A number of them came to the camp and were

-conducted around by Colonels Markham and Rockwood. They were shown a

-six and fifteen shooter also the cannon and the gunners went through

-the evolutions a number of times which seemed to please them much.

-They are all well dressed and very noble looking, some having good

-clean blankets, others nice robes artfully ornamented with beads and

-paintings. All had many ornaments on their clothing and ears, some had

-nice painted shells suspended from the ear. All appeared to be well

-armed with muskets. Their moccasins were indeed clean and beautiful.

-One had a pair of moccasins of a clear white, ornamented with beads,

-etc. They fit very tight to the foot. For cleanness and neatness,

-they will vie with the most tasteful whites. They are thirty-five

-in number, about half squaws and children. They are Sioux and have

-two recommends certifying as to their friendship, etc. The brethren

-contributed something to eat which was sent to them. Our course today

-has been nearly west, with a cool wind. The evening fine but cold

-enough to freeze clothing stiff when laid on the grass to dry. Elder

-Kimball has been quite unwell all day and mostly kept to his wagon.

-Opposite the camp on the south side the river is a very large rock very

-much resembling a castle of four stories high, but in a state of ruin.

-A little to the east a rock stands which looks like a fragment of a

-very thick wall. A few miles to the west Chimney Rock appears in full

-view. The scenery around is pleasant and romantic. After the Indians

-had viewed the camp, they returned to their horses and the rest of the

-party who have camped on the banks of the river about a quarter of

-a mile west of us. Elder Sherwood returned with them and soon after

-came back accompanied by the chief and his squaw who signified a wish

-to abide with our camp tonight. The brethren fixed up a tent for them

-to sleep under; Porter Rockwell made them some coffee, and they were

-furnished with some victuals. The old chief amused himself very much by

-looking at the moon through a telescope for as much as twenty minutes.

-Brother Fairbanks is much better this evening. Last night Luke Johnson

-discovered a very large petrified bone in the neighborhood of the

-bluffs as much as two feet wide, but he could not ascertain the length

-of it. After laboring sometime ineffectually to dig it up, he broke off

-two pieces and brought them to camp. They are very white and hard. It

-is now eleven o'clock. I have been writing in Elder Kimball's journal

-since dark, and have but little chance to write as much as I want in

-my own and his both, but I feel determined to do all I can to keep a

-journal of this expedition which will be interesting to my children

-in after days, and perhaps to many of the Saints. The evening is very

-fine but cool and I retire to rest with the feeling: "God bless my dear

-family."

-

-Tuesday, May 25

-

-The morning fine and very pleasant. Most of the Indians, men, women

-and children came early to camp on their ponies and marched around

-mostly trying to obtain something to eat. Several little barters were

-made with them for moccasins, skins, etc. John S. Higbee traded ponies

-with one of them. They have some good ponies and some inferior ones,

-but both male and females are neatly dressed and very tidy. They look

-cheerful and pleased to witness the camp, etc. At 8:20 we proceeded

-onward. After we started, the Indians left us and went over the river.

-One mile from where we started, we began to ascend a low range of

-bluffs to avoid a large, high sandy ridge which projects to the river.

-We traveled three quarters of a mile and descended again to the level

-prairie. At 9:40 we halted to let the cattle and teams graze, the feed

-being good and plentiful, having traveled two and a half miles, mostly

-northwest around a bend of the river. The sun is very hot, the roads

-sandy and hard teaming. The river is probably three quarters of a mile

-wide here and on this side there are many small islands. At 11:15

-continued our journey and traveled till half past one, distance four

-and three quarters miles over a very soft, wet, level prairie. We then

-halted to feed and rest our teams, as they have been hard drawn nearly

-all day. We have seen no game for several days except a few antelope

-and hares. The buffalo appear to have left this region and in fact

-there are little signs of many having been here. The feed is poor,

-mostly last year's growth and very short. One of the hunters killed

-an antelope, which was brought to camp and divided to the captains of

-tens. At 3:00 p.m. we started again and traveled till a quarter to

-six, distance four and three quarters miles, and during the day twelve

-miles. For three miles of the first of this afternoon we had a good

-road, but the last part has been very wet and soft, numerous ponds

-of water standing all around caused by heavy rains. We have camped

-on a very wet spot, but the feed being poor where it was drier, it

-was decided to stay for the benefit of the teams. Our course has been

-about northwest, very little wind and the day very warm. Chimney Rock

-shows very plain and appears not more than two miles distance but is no

-doubt five miles distance or over. Another antelope has been killed and

-brought in by the hunters. Elder Orson Pratt is taking an observation

-to ascertain the height of Chimney Rock. The evening was very pleasant

-and the brethren passed away their time till after nine o'clock

-dancing. Porter Rockwell shot the two antelope spoken of above. He also

-shot two wolves. Latitude six and a quarter miles back, 41° 41' 46".

-

-Wednesday, May 26

-

-The morning very fine and pleasant. I have spent the morning working

-on Dr. Richards' map. At eight o'clock continued on our journey. Elder

-Pratt taking observations to tell the distance our road lies from

-Chimney Rock. Yesterday morning Stephen Markham traded a mule which was

-foundered and unable to work to one of the Indians for a pony. They put

-him in the harness a little towards evening and again this morning.

-When crossing a very soft place the whipple tree unhitched and struck

-against his heels. He ran full gallop towards the head teams and twice

-through the line of wagons causing several teams, horses and oxen both,

-to spring from the road and run some distance before the men could

-stop them. After running nearly a mile some of the brethren caught

-the pony, brought him back and put him to the wagon again without any

-accident, except a little injury to the harness. After traveling four

-and five-eighths miles, we arrived at a point directly north of Chimney

-Rock which we ascertained by the compass, having traveled since it

-was first discovered 41½ miles. We proceeded till twelve o'clock and

-halted to feed, having traveled seven and a quarter miles, a northwest

-course, the road very straight and hard excepting a few spots where the

-water stands caused by late heavy rains. We turned south a little to

-get to grass as the higher prairie is barren, and scarcely any grass on

-it. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope and John Brown one which

-were brought into camp and are being divided amongst the companies as

-usual. Elder Pratt found that Chimney Rock is 260 feet high from its

-base to its summit and the distance from our road at the nearest point

-three miles. The latitude at noon halt 41° 45' 58". At 2:25 resumed our

-journey making our road nearer the river than this morning. The road

-somewhat crooked but good traveling. After traveling five miles, turned

-directly south to avoid a bad slough and went a quarter of a mile and

-then formed our encampment at five o'clock on the banks of the river.

-The last quarter of a mile was not reckoned in the day's travel which

-exclusive of that is 12¼ miles, course north of northwest. The feed

-here is good and sufficient to fill our teams well. Joseph Hancock

-killed an antelope which was brought into camp and distributed. Soon

-after we camped, walked out to the bank of the river with Presidents

-Young and Kimball to read to them some of the minutes of the old

-council. We were joined by Dr. Richards and tarried till seven o'clock,

-at which time a heavy black cloud was fast approaching from the west

-and was soon followed by a strong wind and a little rain which lasted

-only a short time. The evening afterwards warm and pleasant though

-somewhat cloudy. Carloss Murray has been trying to rear the young eagle

-caught on Saturday. After stopping tonight, he put it under a wagon and

-a while afterwards the men ran the wagon back, one of the wheels ran

-over its head and killed it. I wrote in Heber's journal till half past

-ten and then went to rest.

-

-Thursday, May 27

-

-The morning very fine. We have seen a number of romantic spots on our

-journey, but I consider our view this morning more sublime than any

-other. Chimney Rock lies southeast, opposite detached bluffs of various

-shapes and sizes. To the southwest, Scott's Bluffs look majestic and

-sublime. The prairie over which our route lies is very level and green

-as far as we can see. The bluffs on the north low, and about three

-miles distant. The scenery is truly delightful beyond imagination. I

-have finished making Dr. Richards' map to Chimney Rock. Elder Pratt

-has measured the width of the river at this place by the sextant and

-found it to be exactly 792 yards. At ten minutes to eight we continued

-our journey and traveled near the banks of the river till 11:45, being

-eight miles. The route very good, hard and good traveling, although

-a little crooked. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope and Amasa

-Lyman one, which were brought to the wagons and distributed. There

-are some heavy thunder clouds in the south and west and a nice breeze

-from northeast. At two o'clock we continued our journey over the same

-kind of dry level prairie, keeping not far distant from the banks of

-the river and making a straight road. At the distance of four and an

-eighth miles passed the meridian of the northernmost peak of Scott's

-Bluffs being 19¾ miles from the meridian of Chimney Rock. These bluffs

-are very high, steep, and broken like many others, resembling ancient

-ruins. They are probably two miles from north to south extremity, but

-not very wide. We traveled till 4:45 and formed our encampment in a

-circle near the banks of the river which from this place seems to bend

-for some distance to the north, having traveled this afternoon five and

-three quarters miles and during the day thirteen and three quarters,

-mostly northwest. Elders Kimball and Woodruff pointed out the road

-this forenoon. Afternoon Elder Kimball rode with me in Johnson's wagon

-while I read some of his journal to him. The evening is very cold, wind

-northeast, and raining some. Feed is good and the camp generally well.

-Another antelope was brought in by the hunters. The latitude of the

-northernmost peak of Scott's Bluffs 41° 50' 52".

-

-Friday, May 28

-

-The morning cool, damp, cloudy and some rain. Wind northeast. At about

-eight o'clock the brethren were called together and the question

-asked: shall we go on in the rain or wait until it is fair? All agreed

-to stay until it was fair. I went to writing in Heber's journal and

-wrote till nearly eleven o'clock. Elder Kimball came to the next wagon

-where some of the boys were playing cards. He told them his views and

-disapprobation of their spending time gaming and dancing and mock

-trying, etc., and especially the profane language frequently uttered

-by some. He reasoned with them on the subject and showed them that it

-would lead from bad to worse if persisted in until the consequences

-would become serious. He exhorted them to be more sober and wise. It

-growing fair, we started out at eleven o'clock, our first four miles

-being north of northwest in consequence of a bend in the river. We

-traveled beside a creek of very clear water about a mile. It rises

-about four miles northwest of where we camped last night and runs in

-a crooked direction till it empties into the river about a mile west

-of the camp. It rises from springs as was proved by Horace Whitney

-who traced it to its source where there is a spring rising out of a

-circular kind of wet swamp about six feet in diameter. The creek is

-about eight feet wide but not deep, the bottom is gravelly. Near where

-it empties into the river, they discovered a number of large spotted

-trout, suckers and dais of a good size. The water tasted very good and

-cold. At the distance of four miles we arrived and traveled at the foot

-of the bluffs, the road sandy and heavy on teams. We soon turned from

-the bluffs on a level barren prairie, hard and good traveling. At nine

-miles descended on a lower bench of prairie where we found it wet and

-soft though not bad rolling. At 4:45 formed our encampment near the

-river, having traveled eleven and a half miles, the last seven a little

-south of west. The feed here is not very good. Driftwood tolerably

-plentiful. We have seen a few small trees on the islands today but

-none on the north bank. Vast quantities of southern wood and prickley

-pear grow on these sandy prairies where there is no grass. The evening

-cloudy and dull with cold northeast wind. While Thomas Brown and Porter

-Rockwell were out hunting about five miles north of here, the former

-saw five or six Indians about a quarter of a mile from him. They also

-saw many new footprints of horses, which shows that there is a hunting

-party near.

-

-Saturday, May 29

-

-The morning cold, wet and cloudy with wind from northeast. We shall not

-travel unless it grows fair and better weather. I spent the morning

-writing in Elder Kimball's journal, but felt very unwell having

-taken cold yesterday and been sick all night. About ten o'clock, the

-weather looked a little better and at half past ten the bugle sounded

-as a signal for the teams to be got together. After the teams were

-harnessed, the brethren were called together to the boat in the circle.

-President Young taking his station in the boat, ordered each captain of

-ten to lead out his respective company and get all his men together. He

-then called on the clerk to call over the names of the camp to see if

-all were present. Joseph Hancock and Andrew Gibbons were reported to

-be absent hunting. Brothers Elijah Newman and Nathaniel Fairbanks were

-confined to their wagons but answered to their names, the remainder all

-present. President Young then addressed the meeting in substance as

-follows:

-

-"I remarked last Sunday that I had not felt much like preaching to the

-brethren on this mission. This morning I feel like preaching a little,

-and shall take for my text, 'That as to pursuing our journey with this

-company with the spirit they possess, I am about to revolt against it.'

-This is the text I feel like preaching on this morning, consequently

-I am in no hurry. In the first place, before we left Winter Quarters,

-it was told to the brethren and many knew it by experience, that we

-had to leave our homes, our houses, our land and our all because we

-believed in the Gospel as revealed to the Saints in these last days.

-The rise of the persecutions against the Church was in consequence of

-the doctrines of eternal truth taught by Joseph. Many knew this by

-experience. Some lost their husbands, some lost their wives, and some

-their children through persecution, and yet we have not been disposed

-to forsake the truth and turn and mingle with the gentiles, except a

-few who have turned aside and gone away from us, and we have learned

-in a measure, the difference between a professor of religion and a

-possessor of religion. Before we left Winter Quarters it was told to

-the brethren that we were going to look out a home for the Saints

-where they would be free from persecution by the gentiles, where we

-could dwell in peace and serve God according to the Holy Priesthood,

-where we could build up the kingdom so that the nations would begin to

-flock to our standard. I have said many things to the brethren about

-the strictness of their walk and conduct when we left the gentiles,

-and told them that we would have to walk upright or the law would be

-put in force, etc. Many have left and turned aside through fear, but

-no good upright, honest man will fear. The Gospel does not bind a good

-man down and deprive him of his rights and privileges. It does not

-prevent him from enjoying the fruits of his labors. It does not rob

-him of blessings. It does not stop his increase. It does not diminish

-his kingdom, but it is calculated to enlarge his kingdom as well as to

-enlarge his heart. It is calculated to give him privileges and power,

-and honor, and exaltation and everything which his heart can desire

-in righteousness all the days of his life, and then, when he gets

-exalted into the eternal world he can still turn around and say it

-hath not entered into the heart of man to conceive the glory and honor

-and blessings which God hath in store for those that love and serve

-Him. I want the brethren to understand and comprehend the principles

-of eternal life, and to watch the spirit, be wide awake and not be

-overcome by the adversary. You can see the fruits of the spirit, but

-you cannot see the spirit itself with the natural eye, you behold it

-not. You can see the result of yielding to the evil spirit and what

-it will lead you to, but you do not see the spirit itself nor its

-operations, only by the spirit that's in you. Nobody has told me what

-has been going on in the camp, but I have known it all the while. I

-have been watching its movements, its influence, its effects, and I

-know the result if it is not put a stop to. I want you to understand

-that inasmuch as we are beyond the power of the gentiles where the

-devil has tabernacles in the priests and the people, we are beyond

-their reach, we are beyond their power. We are beyond their grasp,

-and what has the devil now to work upon? Upon the spirits of men in

-this camp, and if you do not open your hearts so that the Spirit of

-God can enter your hearts and teach you the right way, I know that you

-are a ruined people and will be destroyed and that without remedy,

-and unless there is a change and a different course of conduct, a

-different spirit to what is now in this camp, I go no farther. I am in

-no hurry. Give me the man of prayers, give me the man of faith, give

-me the man of meditation, a sober-minded man, and I would far rather

-go amongst the savages with six or eight such men than to trust myself

-with the whole of this camp with the spirit they now possess. Here is

-an opportunity for every man to prove himself, to know whether he will

-pray and remember his God without being asked to do it every day; to

-know whether he will have confidence enough to ask of God that he may

-receive without my telling him to do it. If this camp was composed of

-men who had newly received the Gospel, men who had not received the

-priesthood, men who had not been through the ordinances in the temple

-and who had not had years of experience, enough to have learned the

-influence of the spirits and the difference between a good and an evil

-spirit, I should feel like preaching to them and watching over them

-and telling them all the time, day by day. But here are the Elders of

-Israel, men who have had years of experience, men who have had the

-priesthood for years--and have they got faith enough to rise up

-and stop a mean, low, groveling, covetous, quarrelsome spirit? No, they

-have not, nor would they try to stop it, unless I rise up in the power

-of God and put it down. I do not mean to bow down to the spirit that

-is in this camp, and which is rankling in the bosoms of the brethren,

-and which will lead to knock downs and perhaps to the use of the knife

-to cut each other's throats if it is not put a stop to. I do not mean

-to bow down to the spirit which causes the brethren to quarrel. When I

-wake up in the morning, the first thing I hear is some of the brethren

-jawing each other and quarreling because a horse has got loose in the

-night. I have let the brethren dance and fiddle and act the nigger

-night after night to see what they will do, and what extremes they

-would go to, if suffered to go as far as they would. I do not love to

-see it. The brethren say they want a little exercise to pass away time

-in the evenings, but if you can't tire yourselves bad enough with a

-day's journey without, dancing every night, carry your guns on your

-shoulders and walk, carry your wood to camp instead of lounging and

-lying asleep in your wagons, increasing the load until your teams are

-tired to death and ready to drop to the earth. Help your teams over

-mud holes and bad places instead of lounging in your wagons and that

-will give you exercise enough without dancing. Well, they will play

-cards, they will play checkers, they will play dominoes, and if they

-had the privilege and were where they could get whiskey, they would

-be drunk half their time, and in one week they would quarrel, get to

-high words and draw their knives to kill each other. This is what such

-a course of things would lead to. Don't you know it? Yes. Well, then,

-why don't you try to put it down? I have played cards once in my life

-since I became a Mormon to see what kind of spirit would attend it,

-and I was so well satisfied, that I would rather see in your hands the

-dirtiest thing you could find on the earth, than a pack of cards. You

-never read of gambling, playing cards, checkers, dominoes, etc., in

-the scriptures, but you do read of men praising the Lord in the dance,

-but who ever read of praising the Lord in a game at cards? If any man

-had sense enough to play a game at cards, or dance a little without

-wanting to keep it up all the time, but exercise a little and then quit

-it and think no more of it, it would do well enough, but you want to

-keep it up till midnight and every night, and all the time. You don't

-know how to control your senses. Last winter when we had our seasons of

-recreation in the council house, I went forth in the dance frequently,

-but did my mind run on it? No! To be sure, when I was dancing, my mind

-was on the dance, but the moment I stopped in the middle or the end

-of a tune, my mind was engaged in prayer and praise to my Heavenly

-Father and whatever I engage in, my mind is on it while engaged in it,

-but the moment I am done with it, my mind is drawn up to my God. The

-devils which inhabit the gentiles' priests are here. The tabernacles

-are not here, we are out of their power, we are beyond their grasp, we

-are beyond the reach of their persecutions, but the devils are here,

-and the first thing you'll know if you don't open your eyes and your

-hearts, they will cause divisions in our camp and perhaps war, as they

-did with the Lamanites as you read in the Book of Mormon. Do we suppose

-that we are going to look out a home for the Saints, a resting place, a

-place of peace where they can build up the kingdom and bid the nations

-welcome, with a low, mean, dirty, trifling, covetous, wicked spirit

-dwelling in our bosoms? It is vain! vain! Some of you are very fond of

-passing jokes, and will carry your jokes very far. But will you take

-a joke? If you do not want to take a joke, don't give a joke to your

-brethren. Joking, nonsense, profane language, trifling conversation and

-loud laughter do not belong to us. Suppose the angels were witnessing

-the hoe down the other evening, and listening to the haw haws the other

-evening, would they not be ashamed of it? I am ashamed of it. I have

-not given a joke to any man on this journey nor felt like it; neither

-have I insulted any man's feelings but I have hollowed pretty loud and

-spoken sharply to the brethren when I have seen their awkwardness at

-coming to camp. The revelations in the Bible, in the Book of Mormon,

-and Doctrine and Covenants, teach us to be sober; and let me ask you

-elders that have been through the ordinances in the temple, what were

-your covenants there? I say you should remember them. When I laugh I

-see my folly and nothingness and weakness and am ashamed of myself. I

-think meaner and worse of myself than any man can think of me; but I

-delight in God, and in His commandments and delight to meditate on Him

-and to serve Him and I mean that everything in me shall be subjected

-to Him. Now let every man repent of his weakness, of his follies, of

-his meanness, and every kind of wickedness, and stop your swearing and

-profane language, for it is in this camp and I know it, and have known

-it. I have said nothing about it, but I now tell you, if you don't stop

-it you shall be cursed by the Almighty and shall dwindle away and be

-damned. Such things shall not be suffered in this camp. You shall honor

-God, and confess His name or else you shall suffer the penalty. Most

-of this camp belong to the Church, nearly all; and I would say to you

-brethren, and to the Elders of Israel, if you are faithful, you will

-yet be sent to preach this Gospel to the nations of the earth and bid

-all welcome whether they believe the Gospel or not, and this kingdom

-will reign over many who do not belong to the Church, over thousands

-who do not believe in the Gospel. Bye and bye every knee shall bow and

-every tongue confess and acknowledge and reverence and honor the name

-of God and His priesthood and observe the laws of the kingdom whether

-they belong to the Church and obey the Gospel or not, and I mean that

-every man in this camp shall do it. That is what the scripture means by

-every knee shall bow, etc., and you cannot make anything else out of

-it. I understand there are several in this camp who do not belong to

-the Church. I am the man who will stand up for them and protect them in

-all their rights. And they shall not trample on our rights nor on the

-priesthood. They shall reverence and acknowledge the name of God and

-His priesthood, and if they set up their heads and seek to introduce

-iniquity into this camp and to trample on the priesthood, I swear to

-them, they shall never go back to tell the tale. I will leave them

-where they will be safe. If they want to retreat they can now have the

-privilege, and any man who chooses to go back rather than abide the law

-of God can now have the privilege of doing so before we go any farther.

-Here are the Elders of Israel who have the priesthood, who have got

-to preach the Gospel, who have to gather the nations of the earth,

-who have to build up the kingdom so that the nations can come to it,

-they will stop to dance as niggers. I don't mean this as debasing the

-negroes by any means; they will hoe down all, turn summersets, dance on

-their knees, and haw, haw, out loud; they will play cards, they will

-play checkers and dominoes, they will use profane language, they will

-swear! Suppose when you go to preach, the people should ask you what

-you did when you went on this mission to seek out a home for the whole

-Church, what was your course of conduct? Did you dance? Yes. Did you

-hoe down all? Yes. Did you play cards? Yes. Did you play checkers? Yes.

-Did you use profane language? Yes. Did you swear? Yes. Did you quarrel

-with each other and threaten each other? Why yes. How would you feel?

-What would you say for yourselves? Would you not want to go and hide

-up? Your mouths would be stopped and you would want to creep away in

-disgrace. I am one of the last to ask my brethren to enter into solemn

-covenants, but if they will not enter into a covenant to put away their

-iniquity and turn to the Lord and serve Him and acknowledge and honor

-His name, I want them to take their wagons and retreat back, for I

-shall go no farther under such a state of things. If we don't repent

-and quit our wickedness we will have more hinderances than we have

-had, and worse storms to encounter. I want the brethren to be ready

-for meeting tomorrow at the time appointed, instead of rambling off,

-and hiding in their wagons to play cards, etc. I think it will be good

-for us to have a fast meeting tomorrow and a prayer meeting to humble

-ourselves and turn to the Lord and he will forgive us."

-

-He then called upon all the High Priests to step forth in a line in

-front of the wagon and then the bishops to step in front of the High

-Priests, which being done, he counted them and found their number to

-be four bishops and fifteen high priests. He then called upon all the

-seventies to form a line in the rear of the high priests. On being

-counted, they were ascertained to number seventy-eight. Next he called

-on the elders to form a line in the rear of the wagon. They were eight

-in number. There were also eight of the quorum of the twelve. He then

-asked the brethren of the quorum of the twelve if they were willing to

-covenant, to turn to the Lord with all their hearts, to repent of all

-their follies, to cease from all their evils and serve God according

-to His laws. If they were willing, to manifest it by holding up their

-right hand. Every man held up his hand in token that he covenanted. He

-then put the same question to the high priests and bishops; next to the

-seventies, and then to the elders, and lastly to the other brethren.

-All covenanted with uplifted hands without a dissenting voice. He then

-addressed those who are not members of the Church and told them they

-should be protected in their rights and privileges while they would

-conduct themselves well and not seek to trample on the priesthood nor

-blaspheme the name of God, etc. He then referred to the conduct of

-Benjamin Rolfe's two younger brothers, in joining with the Higbees and

-John C. Bennett in sowing discord and strife among the Saints in Nauvoo

-and remarked that there will be no more Bennett scrapes suffered here.

-He spoke highly of Benjamin Rolfe's conduct, although not a member of

-the Church and also referred to the esteem in which his father and

-mother were held by the Saints generally. He then very tenderly blessed

-the brethren and prayed that God would enable them to fulfill their

-covenants and then withdrew to give opportunity for others to speak

-if they felt like it. Elder Kimball arose to say that he agreed with

-all that President Young had said. He receives it as the word of the

-Lord to him and it is the word of the Lord to this camp if they will

-receive it. He has been watching the motion of things and the conduct

-of the brethren for some time and has seen what it would lead to. He

-has said little but thought a great deal. It has made him shudder

-when he has seen the Elders of Israel descend to the lowest, dirtiest

-things imaginable, the tail end of everything, but what has passed this

-morning will make it an everlasting blessing to the brethren, if they

-will repent and be faithful and keep their covenant. He never can rest

-satisfied until his family is liberated from the gentiles and their

-company and established in a land where they can plant and reap the

-fruits of their labors, but he has never had the privilege of eating

-the fruits of his labors yet, neither has his family, but when this is

-done he can sleep in peace if necessary but not till then. If we will

-serve the Lord, remember His name to call upon Him, and be faithful, we

-shall not one of us be left under the sod, but shall be permitted to

-return and meet our families in peace and enjoy their society again;

-but if this camp continues the course of conduct it has done, the

-judgment of God will overtake us. He hopes the brethren will take heed

-to what President Young has said and let it sink deep in their hearts.

-

-Elder Pratt wanted to add a word to what has been said. "Much good

-advice has been given to teach us how we may spend our time profitably

-by prayer, and meditation, etc." But there is another idea which

-he wants to add. "There are many books in the camp and worlds of

-knowledge before us which we have not obtained, and if the brethren

-would devote all their leisure time to seeking after knowledge, they

-would never need to say they had nothing with which to pass away their

-time. If we could spend 23 hours out of the 24 in gaining knowledge

-and only sleep one hour of the 24 all the days of our life, there

-would still be worlds of knowledge in store for us yet to learn. He

-knows it is difficult to bring our minds to diligent and constant

-studies, in pursuit of knowledge all at once, but by steady practice

-and perseverance we shall become habituated to it, and it will become a

-pleasure to us. He would recommend to the brethren, besides prayer, and

-obedience, to seek after knowledge continually. And it will help us to

-overcome our follies and nonsense; we shall have no time for it.

-

-Elder Woodruff said he remembered the time when the camp went up to

-Missouri to redeem Zion, when Brother Joseph stood up on a wagon wheel

-and told the brethren that the decree had passed and could not be

-revoked, and the destroying angel would visit the camp and we should

-die like sheep with the rot. He had repeatedly warned the brethren of

-their evil conduct and what it would lead to, but they still continued

-in their course. It was not long before the destroying angel did visit

-the camp and the brethren began to fall as Brother Joseph had said. We

-buried eighteen in a short time and a more sorrowful time I never saw.

-There are nine here who were in that camp and they all recollect the

-circumstance well and will never forget it. He has been thinking while

-the President was speaking, that if he was one who had played checkers

-or cards, he would take every pack of cards and every checker board and

-burn them up so that they would no longer be in the way to tempt us.

-

-Colonel Markham acknowledged that he had done wrong in many things.

-He had always indulged himself, before he came into the Church, with

-everything he desired and he knows he has done wrong on this journey,

-he knows his mind has become darkened since he left Winter Quarters.

-He hopes the brethren will forgive him and he will pray to be forgiven

-and try to do better. While he was speaking he was very much affected

-indeed and wept like a child. Many of the brethren felt much affected

-and all seemed to realize for the first time, the excess to which they

-had yielded and the awful consequence of such things if persisted in.

-Many were in tears and felt humbled. President Young returned to the

-boat as Brother Markham closed his remarks and said in reply, that he

-knew the brethren would forgive him, and the Lord will forgive us all

-if we turn to Him with all our hearts and cease to do evil. The meeting

-was then dismissed, each man retiring to his wagon. And being half past

-one o'clock we again pursued our journey in peace, all reflecting on

-what has passed today, and many expressing their gratitude for what

-has transpired. It seemed as though we were just commencing on this

-important mission, and all realizing the responsibility resting upon

-us to conduct ourselves in such a manner that the journey may be an

-everlasting blessing to us, instead of an everlasting disgrace. No loud

-laughter was heard, no swearing, no quarreling, no profane language, no

-hard speeches to man or beast, and it truly seemed as though the cloud

-had burst and we had emerged into a new element, a new atmosphere, and

-a new society. We traveled six and three quarters miles about a north

-of northwest course and then arrived at the foot of the low bluffs

-which extend within about ten rods of the river, the latter forming a

-large bend northward at this point. At the foot of the bluffs the road

-was sandy and very heavy on our teams. Like all other sandy places,

-it was perfectly barren, being only a tuft of grass here and there.

-After passing over the sand we changed our course to a little north of

-west, not, however, leaving the bluffs very far. The river bends again

-to the south. We then found the ground hard and good to travel over,

-but perfectly bare of grass for upwards of a mile. At five o'clock it

-commenced raining very hard accompanied by lightning and thunder and

-strong northeast wind. It also changed considerably cooler again. At

-five thirty o'clock we formed our encampment on the edge of the higher

-bench of prairie. The feed is tolerably good on the bottom but here

-there is none at all. We have passed a small grove of fair sized trees,

-all green, growing on the islands in the river which are tolerably many

-near here, but there is no timber yet on this side of the river. The

-brethren pick up drift wood enough to do their cooking. I spent the

-evening writing in this journal till half past twelve o'clock, but felt

-quite unwell. The distance we have traveled today is eight and a half

-miles, during the week seventy-four and a half, making us 514½ miles

-from Winter Quarters. There is a creek of clear water about 200 yards

-to the south from which the camp obtains what they want.

-

-Sunday, May 30

-

-The morning fair and somewhat more pleasant, although there is yet

-appearance for more rain. I felt quite unwell through the night and

-also this morning, having severe pain. At nine o'clock most of the

-brethren retired a little south of the camp and had a prayer meeting,

-and as many as chose to, expressed their feelings. At a little before

-twelve they met again in the same spot to partake of the sacrament.

-Soon afterwards all the members of the council of the K. of G. in the

-camp, except Brother Thomas Bullock, went onto the bluffs and selecting

-a small, circular, level spot surrounded by bluffs and out of sight,

-we clothed ourselves in the priestly garments and offered up prayer to

-God for ourselves, this camp and all pertaining to it, the brethren

-in the army, our families and all the Saints, President Young being

-mouth. We all felt well and glad for this privilege. The members of the

-above council are Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, Willard Richards,

-Orson Pratt, George A. Smith, Wilford Woodruff, Amasa Lyman, Ezra T.

-Benson, Phineas H. Young, John Pack, Charles Shumway, Shadrack Roundy,

-Albert P. Rockwood, Erastus Snow, myself, Albert Carrington and Porter

-Rockwell. The two latter, having no clothing with them, stood guard

-at a little distance from us to prevent interruption. When we started

-for the bluffs, there was a heavy black thunder cloud rising from

-the southwest, and from all appearance it might rain any minute, but

-the brethren believed it would not rain till we got through and if

-it did we chose rather to take a wetting than to be disappointed of

-the privilege. It kept off remarkably till we got through and got our

-clothing on, but soon after it began to rain and after we got to camp

-it rained considerably, accompanied by strong wind. I never noticed

-the brethren so still and sober on a Sunday since we started as today.

-There is no jesting nor laughing, nor nonsense. All appear to be sober

-and feel to remember their covenant which makes things look far more

-pleasant than they have done heretofore. I spent most of the afternoon

-in Elder Kimball's wagon with Elder Kimball, President Young, Lorenzo

-and Phineas Young. Read the minutes of President Young's discourse of

-yesterday. About five o'clock President Young, Kimball, Benson and

-others walked out together to the bluffs. They invited me to go with

-them but I was so afflicted with cramps I could scarcely walk, and

-after drinking a cup of tea prepared by Ellen Sanders I went to my

-wagon and retired to bed early. The evening more pleasant with a light

-shower occasionally. Elder Kimball, President Young, and others saw the

-Black Hills in the distance from a high bluff.

-

-Monday, May 31

-

-The morning fine but cool. I feel quite unwell yet and have been sick

-all night. At a quarter past eight we proceeded onward, found good

-level traveling, the day cool and pleasant. We soon struck a wagon

-trail which evidently leads direct to Fort Laramie. At four miles,

-passed some high sandy bluffs. Traveled till after twelve and then

-turned off a little to the southwest and at half past twelve o'clock

-halted for noon at the edge of lower land where there is some short

-green grass for our teams. The land we have traveled over this morning

-is naked and barren, course west of northwest, distance nine and a

-half miles. A high wind from northwest. Latitude 42° 04' 30". Started

-again at 3:00 p.m., weather warm and wind ceased. At 6:45 p.m. formed

-our encampment on the east bank of a shoal stream about ten feet wide,

-having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter miles, and during

-the day sixteen and three quarters. Our course this afternoon a little

-north of west. About four miles back, passed some timber on this side

-of the river which is the first since the 10th inst, being a distance

-of 215 miles without wood for fire, except driftwood, and much of the

-time nothing but buffalo chips. The last four or five miles have been

-sandy, the ground uneven and very heavy on our teams. The country looks

-perfectly barren; in some places there is nothing but a few weeds and

-garlick. Some of the brethren picked considerable of the latter to eat.

-The feed is very poor indeed, but a little better than four miles back.

-John S. Higbee has killed a deer and some of the brethren wounded two

-others. This deer which Brother Higbee killed is of the long tailed

-species, having a tail more than a half a yard long, and is the first

-one I ever saw of the kind. A while after we camped, President Young

-and Kimball went to the bluffs and again saw the Black Hills in the

-distance. They bowed before the Lord and offered up their prayers

-together.

-

-The month of May has passed over and we have been permitted to proceed

-so far on our journey, being 531¼ miles from our families in Winter

-Quarters, with the camp generally enjoying good health and good

-spirits, and although some things have passed which have merited

-chastisement, we have the privilege at the closing of the month of

-seeing a better feeling, a more noble spirit, and a more general desire

-to do right than we have before witnessed. I feel to humble myself and

-give God thanks for his continued mercies to me and my brethren and

-may His spirit fill our hearts and may His angels administer comfort,

-health, peace and prosperity to all our families and all the Saints

-henceforth and forever. Amen.

-

-

-

-June 1847

-

-Tuesday, June 1

-

-The morning very fine, warm and pleasant. All is still and quiet as a

-summer's morning, the camp well and in good spirits and a feeling of

-peace, union and brotherly love seems to dwell in every breast. My mind

-revolves back upon by-gone days and then to the present, and I truly

-feel thankful to my God for His mercies to me and for the privilege

-I now daily enjoy. The idea of dwelling with my family in a land of

-peace, in the midst of the Saints of God is better felt than described,

-but the mild, still scenery of this morning puts me in mind of it.

-At nine o'clock we pursued our journey, the stream we passed over is

-called by Grosclaude: "The Raw Hide." Elder Kimball let me have his

-horse to ride. I went in company with George A. Smith who was on foot

-carrying his gun in fulfillment of President Young's prophecy at the

-Pawnee Mission station. The wagons went on till half past eleven and

-then halted for noon. We were about a mile ahead of them. The distance

-they traveled was four and a half miles. At half past one, started

-out again and traveled till a little after four o'clock and saw Fort

-Laramie about four miles to the southwest. Elder Kimball and President

-Young then came up to where Brother Woodruff and I were looking out

-for feed and we started on, President Young having stopped the wagons,

-and went to the ford opposite to the fort. It was finally concluded to

-form our encampment here on the banks of the river. Several men soon

-came down from the fort which is about two miles from here and made

-themselves known as a part of the Mississippi company from Pueblo. They

-have been here two weeks. It caused us much joy to meet with brethren

-in this wild region of country and also because we should have some

-news from the brethren in the army. Luke Johnson being up here with

-the boat and several others coming up, they got the boat into the

-river to go over and see the brethren. And Luke Johnson, John Brown,

-Joseph Mathews and Porter Rockwell started over and about the same

-time, Presidents Young and Kimball started back to bring the camp up.

-When the brethren got over the river Brother Brown met several whom he

-knew and soon returned bringing Brother Crow and his son-in-law over

-to this side. The brethren seemed pleased to meet us. Brother Crow

-reports deaths in the Pueblo detachment since Brothers Tippets and

-Woolsey left, viz. Melcher Oyler, Arnold Stevens. They also state that

-Soloman Tindall was on the point of death. The other portion of the

-battalion they had not heard from. The Pueblo brethren are expected to

-receive their pay and start for this point, at latest by this date,

-and will probably be here in about two weeks. They also recorded that

-three traders from the mountains arrived here six days ago, having

-come from Sweet Water in six days and nights. They traveled day and

-night with horses and mules to prevent their starving to death as there

-is no feed up there. Two of their oxen had died already, etc. The

-snow was two feet deep at Sweet Water when they left, so that we are

-evidently plenty soon enough for feed. At 5:45 the wagons arrived and

-formed encampment on the banks of the river in the form of a V, having

-traveled this afternoon, seven and a half miles and during the day,

-twelve, making a total from Winter Quarters to Fort Laramie 543¼ miles

-and we have traveled it in seven weeks lacking a half a day, but we

-have traveled but a few miles on Sundays. We have arrived so far on our

-journey without accident except the loss of two horses by Indians and

-two killed. We have been prosperous on our journey, the camp are all in

-better health than when we left Winter Quarters and we see daily that

-the Lord blesses us and directs the movements of this camp as seemeth

-Him good and as is for our good and prosperity. The road today has been

-mostly sandy and heavy on teams with but little feed in any place. The

-country begins to have a more hilly and mountainous appearance. Some

-of the Black Hills show very plain from here. The timber is mostly ash

-and cottonwood on the low bottoms near the river. There is some cedar

-on the bluffs. In one of the large ash trees in the middle of the camp

-is an Indian babe or papoose. It cannot be said to be buried, but

-deposited, being first wrapped with a skin and then tied between two

-of the highest limbs of the tree. This is said to be the way they bury

-their dead. The bark is all peeled off the tree below, I suppose to

-prevent the wolves from getting up.

-

-Wednesday, June 2

-

-The morning pleasant. About nine o'clock started over the river in

-company with the Twelve and others to view the fort and also learn

-something in regard to our journey, etc. Elder Pratt measured the

-distance across the river at this spot and found it to be 108 yards.

-The water is deep in the channel and the current runs about four miles

-an hour. After crossing we went up to the remains of an old fort called

-Fort Platte which is near the banks of the river, the outside walls

-still standing, but the inside is in ruins, having been burned up.

-The walls are built of adobes or Spanish brick, being large pieces

-of tempered clay dried in the sun and apparently laid one on another

-without mortar or cement. The dimensions of this fort outside are 144

-feet east to west, and from north to south 103 feet. There is a large

-door fronting to the south which has led to the dwellings which have

-been fourteen in number, built in the form of a parallelogram, leaving

-a large space in the center. The space occupied by the dwelling is not

-quite half of the whole fort. Fronting to the east is another large

-door which opens upon a large open space 98¾ feet by 47 feet where it

-is supposed they used to keep horses, etc. At the northwest corner is

-a tower projecting out from the line of the walls six feet each way,

-or, in other words it is twelve feet square with port holes for cannon.

-At the northeast corner has been another projection extending eastward

-29½ feet and is 19½ feet wide. The walls are 11 feet high and 30

-inches thick. We took the dimensions of this with a tape line and then

-proceeded to Fort Laramie about two miles farther west. This latter

-fort was first built of wood about thirteen years since, and named

-Fort William, but being destroyed was afterwards built seven years

-ago with adobes and named John. It stands on the bank of the Laramie

-fork. Laramie fork is a stream forty-one yards wide, a very swift

-current, but not deep. We tarried a little while with the Mississippi

-brethren who have camped close by the fort and then went inside. We

-were politely welcomed by Mr. Bordeau who appears to be the principal

-officer. He conducted us up a flight of stairs into a comfortable room

-and being furnished with seats, we rested ourselves. President Young

-and others entered into conversation with Mr. Bordeau. From him we

-learned that we cannot travel over four miles farther on the north

-side the Platte before we come to bluffs which cannot be crossed with

-loaded wagons. The road is better on this side than the one we have

-traveled, it being hard and not sandy. Feed scarce mostly lying in

-little patches near the river. They send their furs to Fort Pierre on

-the Missouri river a distance of 400 miles by land and receive all

-their stores and provisions back by the same teams, except their meat

-which they kill, there being buffalo within two days' drive. They

-have tried making a garden and planting corn which did well enough

-the first year, but afterwards they could raise nothing for want of

-rain. They have had no rain for two years until a few days ago. They

-have got a flat boat which will carry two wagons easily which we can

-have for fifteen dollars or he will ferry us over for $18.00 or 25c a

-wagon. From the door of this room one can see the same black hill seen

-on Sunday evening and which is Laramie Peak. We could see the snow

-lying on it very plainly. We can also see several ranges of high hills

-in the distance which are no doubt parts of the Black Hills. We went

-across the square to the trading house which lies on the north side

-of the western entrance. The trader opened his store and President

-Young entered into conversation with him. They trade solely with the

-Sioux. The Crows come here for nothing but to steal. A few weeks ago

-a party came down and stole twenty-five horses, all that they had at

-the fort, although they were within 300 yards of the fort at the time

-and a guard around them. The Sioux will not steal on their own land.

-A pair of moccasins are worth a dollar, a lariat a dollar, a pound of

-tobacco a dollar and a half, and a gallon of whiskey $32.00. They have

-no sugar, coffee or spices as their spring stores have not yet arrived.

-They have lately sent to Fort Pierre, 600 bales of robes with ten robes

-in each bale. Their wagons have been gone forty-five days, etc. The

-blacksmith shop lies on the south side of the western entrance. There

-are dwellings inside the fort beside that of Mr. Bordeau's. The south

-end is divided off and occupied for stables, etc. There are many souls

-at this fort, mostly French, half-breeds, and a few Sioux Indians.

-Elder Pratt measured the river and found it forty-one yards. He also

-took the latitude which was 42° 12' 13". Brother Bullock told me that

-several of the brethren had picked up a number of beads off the ant

-hills. Curiosity led me to go and examine and I found it even so. It

-appears that the ants gather all the small pebbles they can carry and

-build them over their hills to prevent the strong winds from blowing

-them away, and amongst the rest, they picked up beads which have been

-lost off the Indians' moccasins and robes, etc. I picked up quite a

-number. Brother Bullock and I took the dimensions of the fort which

-will be given in another place. We then got on board the boat and had

-a pleasant ride about three miles down the Laramie fork to its mouth,

-the current being very swift. At the mouth, the brethren mostly got on

-shore and towed the boat up to camp. After dinner I went over again in

-the cutter which was going to fish with the seine in the Laramie fork.

-They caught sixty or seventy small fish, salmon, suckers, etc. About

-six o'clock we returned to camp. The Twelve have decided that Amasa

-Lyman shall go with Brothers Woolsey, Tippets and Stevens to Pueblo.

-They start tomorrow. Longitude at Fort Laramie 104° 11' 53". I have

-seen three birds here which very much resemble the English magpie in

-size, shape and color, in fact I know of no difference between the two.

-We passed a number of currant bushes about four miles back, quite thick

-with young, green currants. On the morning of the 4th of June, I put

-up a guide board on the north side of the river at the ferry with the

-following inscription on it, viz. Winter Quarters 543¼ miles, junction

-of the forks 227½ miles. Ash Hollow 142¼ miles, Chimney Rock 70¼ miles,

-Scott's Bluffs 50½ miles. Wm. Clayton, June 4, 1847. Elder Pratt took

-the altitude of Fort Laramie and found it to be 4,090 feet above the

-level of the sea. Fremont makes 4,470, differing 380 feet.

-

-Thursday, June 3

-

-The morning cold with strong southeast wind. The first division

-commenced ferrying over the river at five o'clock and took a wagon over

-every fifteen minutes. After breakfast I went over and wrote a letter

-for Elder Kimball to James Brown at Pueblo, then walked up to a high

-bluff on the northwest to view the country, but not being able to see

-far from it, I went to another over a mile farther northwest. Although

-this last was very high I could see nothing but a succession of high

-ranges of bluffs as far as I could see, except the narrow space through

-which the river winds its course. Seeing some heavy thunder clouds

-rising very rapidly from the northwest I returned to camp and arrived

-just before the rain commenced. Elders A. Lyman, Thomas Woolsey, John

-H. Tippets and Roswell Stevens started at 11:15 on horses and mules for

-Pueblo. President Young, Kimball, Richards and Pratt accompanied them

-to the Laramie fork and then held a council, kneeled down and dedicated

-them to God and blessed them. The four then forded the river and went

-on their journey, the others returned to camp. At half past 1:00 p.m.

-it commenced raining heavily accompanied by hail, lightning and very

-loud thunder, which lasted till 3:30 p.m. During the storm, the horses

-were mostly secured in the old fort. The ferrying ceased till it was

-fair again, and about five o'clock the first division were all over.

-The boat was then manned by the second division, John S. Higbee,

-captain. They averaged a wagon across in eleven minutes and one in ten

-minutes and one in ten minutes and twenty seconds. The quickest trip

-made by the first division was thirteen minutes. About seven o'clock

-it commenced raining again from the southeast and rained heavily,

-consequently the brethren quit ferrying, leaving three companies of

-about fifteen wagons on the other side. All the wagons would have been

-taken over today if it had not been stormy.

-

-There is a report come in that there are 2,000 wagons on the road to

-Oregon, but a little distance behind, but we are satisfied the report

-is exaggerated. There are eighteen wagons camped about three miles

-below and one of the men who has come to the fort says that they have

-counted over 500 wagons. They have lost four horses by the Indians.

-

-Friday, June 4

-

-Morning very fine. Laramie peak shows very plain. The brethren

-commenced ferrying at 4:40 a.m., and at eight o'clock the last wagon

-was over. I walked up to a high bluff with Carlos Murray and picked up

-some stalactites clear as crystal supposed to be isinglass. The bluff

-is very high and almost perpendicular and it is dangerous to get to the

-crystals.

-

-At nine o'clock President Young, Kimball, W. Richards, A. P.

-Rockwood and T. Bullock walked up to Fort Laramie and returned soon

-after eleven o'clock. They have learned very favorable reports about

-Bear River Valley, being well timbered, plenty of good grass, light

-winters, little snow and abundance of fish, especially spotted trout,

-in the streams. About half past eleven o'clock Brother Crow's company

-came down and joined in with the second division and at twelve we

-started on our journey again, following the Oregon road. We traveled

-three miles and at 20 minutes past 1:00, halted near some good grass to

-let our teams feed. The weather is very warm though many light clouds

-are flying. The bluffs come near the river and are very high, steep,

-and look like sand. During the halt I went up on a very high bluff

-near by with my glass. I found it very difficult of ascent. From the

-top I could see Laramie peak very plainly and also some hills a long

-way off to the northwest. The country looks very hilly as far as can

-be seen and the snow on the peak shows quite plain. At half past two

-we continued our journey and found the road sandy and very uneven. At

-the distance of seven and three quarters miles from Fort Laramie we

-descended a very steep pitch or hill. All the wagons had to be locked

-and we were some time getting down. We went on half a mile farther and

-formed our encampment in a circle at half past five, having traveled

-eight and a quarter miles today. At half past five we had a shower

-accompanied by a little lightning and heavy thunder. I will now give

-the list of names of Brother Crow's company who have joined the camp

-today to go with this pioneer camp. They are as follows:

-

-Robert Crow, Elizabeth Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, Elizabeth Jane Crow,

-John McHenry Crow, Walter H. Crow, Geo. W. Therlkill, Matilla Jane

-Therlkill, Milton Howard Therlkill, James William Therlkill, William

-Parker Crow, Isa Vinda Exene Crow, Ira Minda Almarene Crow, Archibald

-Little, James Chesney and Lewis B. Myers, seventeen in number, making

-the total number of souls in this pioneer camp, after deducting four

-gone to Pueblo, 161.

-

-Lewis B. Myers is represented as knowing the country to the mountains,

-having traveled it, and I am told that he came as a guide to Brother

-Crow. They have five wagons, one cart, eleven horses, twenty-four oxen,

-twenty-two cows, three bulls and seven calves.

-

-Inasmuch as there have been some changes in horses and mules, I will

-endeavor to state them and give the number we started with from Fort

-Laramie. Two horses killed by accident. Two horses stolen by the

-Pawnees at Gravel creek; one mule traded for a pony by Brother Markham;

-three horses and one mule gone with the brethren to Pueblo; one horse

-traded by O. P. Rockwell for three cows and two calves; one horse

-traded by John Pack for three buffalo robes; one horse traded by T.

-Brown for a pony at Laramie; one pony traded by J. S. Higbee to

-the Sioux for a pony. These changes with the addition made by Brother

-Crow's company make the number as follows: horses 95, mules 51, head of

-oxen 100, cows 41, bulls 3, calves 7, dogs and chickens, and 77 wagons

-and 1 cart.

-

-Saturday, June 5

-

-The morning pleasant though somewhat cloudy. Elder Kimball gave George

-Billings a lecture about abusing his team, kicking them, etc. He gave

-George some very good advice. The horn sounded early to start but we

-were detained till half past eight on account of several oxen being

-missing. About that time they were found and we pursued our journey.

-After traveling a little over four miles we ascended a steep bluff.

-The road runs on the top of it a little distance in a very crooked

-direction, the surface in some places being hard, uneven rock, which

-shakes and jars the wagons very much. In one place there is a little

-descent and at the bottom a very sharp turn in the road over rough

-rock. Here Brother Crow's cart turned over. However, it was soon

-righted and no injury done to anything. At the west foot is a steep,

-sandy descent but not difficult. The bluff is a half a mile across.

-About a half a mile from the west foot we turned from the river nearly

-a west course and crossed a low gravelly channel where it appears the

-river has run sometime and perhaps does now in high water.

-

-The road after this is considerably crooked and uneven. About a mile

-and a quarter farther we descended again on the same gravelly channel

-and traveled up it a piece and at 11:35 halted for noon opposite a

-very large spring noticed by Fremont. The water of this spring is

-very clear and soft, but considerably warmer than the river water. We

-have traveled this morning six and a half miles. Just as we halted,

-two men came down from the other road on mules to water. They are in

-company with eleven wagons and bound for west of the mountains. They

-say the other road from Laramie is only ten miles to the spring while

-our road has been 14¾ miles. About a half an hour after we stopped, we

-had a nice shower. The 1st division halted about a quarter of a mile

-back from here. Latitude at the warm springs 42° 15' 6". While we were

-halting, the company above referred to passed down the bluffs and went

-ahead of us. They have got many cows, etc., with them. At 1:40 p.m.

-we resumed our journey. After traveling a mile we turned in a narrow

-pass to the northwest between two high bluffs and traveled a quarter of

-a mile farther, then came to where the road rises a very high, steep

-bluff. At the foot is a short sudden pitch and then a rugged ascent

-for a quarter of a mile. The bluff is rocky and many large cobble

-stones lay in the road which made it hard on teams. Appleton Harmon

-took one of his yoke of cattle and assisted George Billings to the top

-and Brother Johnson took Appleton's steers and put them forward of his

-and brought up his wagon. Appleton and Johnson then took the three

-yoke of oxen and fetched up Appleton's wagon which threw us nearly in

-the rear of all the wagons, none of the rest doubling teams. After

-arriving on the top the road was good but still rising for a quarter of

-a mile farther. We traveled on this high land five and a quarter miles

-which was very good traveling although it was considerably rolling.

-Four and a half miles from the top of the last mentioned bluff, we

-passed a large lone rock, standing far away from any other. At five

-and a quarter miles we descended again from the bluff, the descent

-being steep and lengthy but sandy and good to travel. At the foot of

-the bluff we again crossed the gravelly channel and traveled on and

-alongside about a mile, then descended a little to the bottom prairie

-again. At 6:30 we formed our encampment on the west bank of a small

-stream and near a very good spring of cold water, having traveled this

-afternoon 10½ miles and during the day seventeen.

-

-I have put up two guide boards today. One at 10 and the other at 20

-miles from Fort John or Laramie, but the former name is on the guide

-boards. The bluffs we have passed today are mostly very high, rocky and

-broken, with pine growing on most or nearly all of them. We have pretty

-good feed here and plenty of wood and good water. The gentile camp is a

-little east of us. They say that there were two more companies arrived

-at Fort Laramie this morning as they left, and three other companies

-within twenty miles of Laramie. They left this morning. They left

-Independence on the 22nd of April. They are expecting the mail soon

-on mules, but they anticipate keeping ahead of all the companies. We

-find the road very crooked, but not bad traveling. About dark it rained

-some, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The camp was notified that

-tomorrow will be a day for fasting and prayer as last Sunday.

-

-Sunday, June 6

-

-Morning cloudy, cool, and like for rain. At eight o'clock the eleven

-wagons passed us again. At nine the brethren assembled for prayer

-meeting a little from the camp, but many kept about their wagons, some

-washing and some at other things. At eleven o'clock, four Missourians

-came up mounted, being part of a company a little behind. Some of

-these are recognized by the brethren and they seem a little afraid and

-not fond of our company. They say the old settlers have all fled from

-Shariton, Missouri, except two tavern keepers, and I feel to wish that

-their fears may follow them even to Oregon. At half past eleven just

-as the brethren again assembled for meeting it commenced raining hard,

-accompanied by lightning and heavy thunder which caused the meeting to

-break up abruptly. During the storm, the Missouri company passed by us,

-having nineteen wagons and two carriages. Most of their wagons have

-five yoke of cattle to each, and few less than four. They have many

-cows, horses and young cattle with them. They have a guide with them

-who lives on the St. Mary's River at the Columbia. He says we shall

-find water again about six miles from here and then no more for fifteen

-miles farther. It was then considered wise to move on this afternoon as

-we cannot well reach the second watering place in one day. Soon after

-twelve o'clock the weather cleared off, the sun shone and looks like

-for being fine. The wind blows strong from the west. At half past 2:00

-p.m. the camp began to move forward. About three quarters of a mile

-we crossed the same small stream again, and two miles further arrived

-at a sudden bend in the road to the south about two hundred yards and

-then as sudden to the north the same distance occasioned by the water

-having washed a deep gulf where the road ought to run. A mile beyond

-this the wagons came to a halt in a body of timber and brushwood at

-four o'clock, and halted while the brethren on horseback, viz. Elder

-Young, Kimball and Woodruff, went ahead to look for a camping ground.

-They returned at 4:40 and the camp proceeded on. Having proceeded a

-quarter of a mile we passed the camp of the nineteen wagons close by

-the timber a little south of the road. Several of the men came to look

-at the roadometer, having heard from some of the brethren that we had

-one. They expressed a wish to each other to see inside and looked upon

-it as a curiosity. I paid no attention to them inasmuch as they did

-not address themselves to me. At a quarter past 5:00 p.m. we formed

-our encampment in an oblong circle, at the foot of a low bluff on the

-west and close by water, having traveled five miles. The feed here is

-very good and plentiful. Wind strong from the west. Road very crooked,

-mostly a southwest and west course. There is plenty of timber all along

-and the soil looks good on the low lands. One of the men in the company

-of the nineteen wagons told G. A. Smith that he had broken his

-carriage spring and seemed much troubled to know what to do to get

-along. He asked George if there was any man in our company who could

-fix it. George told him there was. After we were camped, Burr Frost set

-up his forge and welded the spring ready to put on before dark.

-

-Monday, June 7

-

-Morning fine. Elder Pratt gave me some instructions on the use of the

-sextant and showed me how to take an observation. He has promised to

-teach me to take observations and calculate latitude and longitude

-and I intend to improve the opportunity. At 6:30 the Missouri company

-passed through again. And at ten minutes past seven we commenced our

-onward course. Dr. Richards left a letter in a guide board 30¼ miles

-to Fort John. I walked about five miles mostly in company with Elder

-Pratt conversing on astronomy and philosophical subjects. Elder Kimball

-then let me have his horse to ride. We traveled till eleven o'clock

-and then halted to feed on the west bank of a small stream and spring

-of clear water, having traveled 7¾ miles, mostly a north of northwest

-course. The road more even and good traveling. Soon after we halted,

-another company of Missourians passed us, having thirteen wagons and

-mostly four yoke of oxen to each. They say they are from Andrew County,

-Missouri. At 12:35 we moved forward. At a quarter of a mile began to

-ascend a bluff which was a quarter of a mile from the bottom to the

-top, the ascent gradual and tolerably steep. From the top of this hill

-we had as pleasant a view of the surrounding country as I have ever

-witnessed. Laramie peak appears only a few miles to the southwest, and

-from that around to the west, north, and northeast, a very extensive

-view of a beautiful country for many miles, indeed, as far as the

-eye could survey. From a fair view of the peak I am satisfied that

-the Black Hills, of which this is a prominent part, are so named

-from the vast forests of pine trees covering their surface and being

-of a dark green color within a few miles of them. The pine grows in

-the most rocky places and abounds on the highest hills, while on the

-lower bluffs it is sparsely scattered and in the bottom land, which

-looks rich and good, there are none. We have passed many noble trees

-and there is no lack of good pine timber in this region. The peak is

-very high, and very broken and craggy, the snow still lying on its

-summit and plainly visible with the naked eye. The ridge over which

-we passed was a half a mile over from the southeast to the northwest

-foot. At that distance we began to descend and had to lock the wagons

-in several places. The descent was rendered unpleasant by the many

-large cobble stones scattered in the road. Many of the brethren threw

-them out of the road as we went along and the road is much improved.

-They have also dug down some places and leveled others, which will

-make the road much better for other companies. At half past three we

-arrived at Horse Creek and formed our encampment on the bottom land

-near the timber or rather in the midst of a grove of ash, cottonwood,

-etc., having traveled five and a quarter miles this afternoon over

-crooked road and during the day, thirteen miles. On this camp ground

-is one of the clearest and largest springs of water I have seen for a

-long time. Elder Kimball having discovered it, he calls it his spring

-or Heber's spring. The creek is also clear and said to have trout in

-it. The feed is much better and more plentiful than we have ever met

-with on this journey. There is abundance of wild mint and sage growing

-here; the mint seems to perfume the air. The sage grows in abundance on

-all this sandy land. There are also many wild currant bushes in full

-bloom and prickley pears all along the road. The other companies were

-all within two miles when we arrived here, but mostly going on a few

-miles farther. A little before we stopped, we had a thunder storm which

-lasted upwards of an hour. During the latter part of it, it rained very

-heavily accompanied by hail and thunder and lightning. Our hunters have

-killed a long-tailed deer and an antelope, which were distributed as

-usual. Brother Crow's hunter also killed a deer, but they are unwilling

-to conform to the rules of the camp in dividing and reserve it all

-to themselves. Brother Crow observed that if they got more than they

-could use they would be willing to let the camp have some. Some of the

-other companies killed an antelope, took off the quarters and left the

-balance on the ground. Brother Pack picked it up and brought it along.

-After we stopped Brother Crow came near meeting with an accident while

-endeavoring to yoke up a pair of wild steers. It took a number of

-men to hold them, having lariats on their saddle-horns. They got the

-lariats entangled round their legs and Brother Crow also, throwing one

-of the steers down and he fast with it. They cut the rope and he was

-liberated without injury. Myers, the hunter, roasts the young antlers

-of the deer and eats them. In regard to Brother Crow's meat, etc., I

-afterwards learned that the whole family had to depend on Myers for

-what they eat, having no bread stuff, nor anything only what he kills,

-and the little flour and meal paid to him for a part of the ferryage,

-he having a small claim on Bordeau. After supper, walked out with Elder

-Kimball and was joined by George A. Smith. Brother Smith told me of a

-good opportunity of sending a letter to my family by some traders who

-are expected down every day and I feel to improve the opportunity. We

-had a very strong wind at night, so much that I could not write.

-

-Tuesday, June 8

-

-Morning fine though cool. At half past seven we proceeded on our

-journey crossing the Horseshoe creek, which is about a rod wide. We

-traveled two and a quarter miles, winding around the foot of high

-bluffs and then began to ascend them. We found this ascent the worst

-we have ever had, being three quarters of a mile up, and having in

-that distance seven very steep rises. On most of them the teams had to

-double. We saw a buffalo about a half a mile to the south which is the

-first we have seen since about the 21st of May. Two and a half miles

-from the east foot of the last bluff we passed over a small creek,

-nearly dry, and then ascended another high bluff but not nearly so

-bad a rise as the other one. At 11:45 we halted for noon near a very

-small creek with but little water in it, having traveled six and three

-quarters miles over hills and valleys, the roads being very crooked.

-About half an hour before we halted, Harriet Crow got run over with one

-of their wagons. The teams had stopped near the descent from the bluffs

-and she stepped on the wagon tongue to get a drink. The cattle started

-suddenly, threw her under the wheel which passed over her leg below the

-knee and downwards, passing over her foot above the toes. She screamed

-and appeared in great agony. We thought her leg was broken, but were

-soon satisfied to the contrary. Her foot was badly bruised but I think

-there was nothing broken. One of the women washed it with camphor. She

-was then put into a wagon and we proceeded on. Latitude 42° 29' 58".

-

-At 1:40 we proceeded. After traveling a little over a mile and a

-half we passed another small creek, and again ascended a high bluff.

-We found this ridge more uneven than the other, it being a perfect

-succession of hills and hollows for five miles. The road was good

-and hard. While traveling on the top the wind blew very strong from

-the west and it was so cold that we suffered some. The road over was

-indeed very crooked but mostly bending to the north. We could see a

-long distance from the top. The country to the north looks more even

-but south and southwest very hilly and broken. At five miles we began

-to descend gradually, and while watching the roadometer I discovered

-it did not work right which made me pay more attention to it. At ten

-minutes past six we crossed a stream about thirty feet wide and nearly

-two feet deep with a very swift current. It is named on Fremont's map

-as La Bonte river. We formed our encampment on the west bank in the

-timber having traveled this afternoon 8¾ miles and during the day 15½.

-The evening is very cold and much appearance of rain. Porter Rockwell

-has killed a deer and someone else an antelope. Porter says he has been

-on the Platte which is about four miles from here following the La

-Bonte. Soon after we stopped, the men came into camp who were expected

-to carry a letter. They are camped about a mile west of us. I finished

-my letter to my family by candle light, as it is contemplated to start

-in the morning before breakfast and go a few miles to better feed.

-

-Wednesday, June 9

-

-Arose at 4:20 and at 5:15 a.m. we moved onward, keeping near the La

-Bonte. At 5:45 halted for breakfast beside the traders' camp, having

-come a mile and a quarter. I sent my letter to them by Aaron Farr, a

-number of the brethren also sending letters. While we halted I got

-the roadometer fixed again and also put up a guide board marked "To

-Fort John 60 miles." These traders or mountaineers said they had left

-a kind of ferry made of three buffalo skins hung in a tree on the

-Platte and wanted Brother Crow's company to have it. It was decided

-to send a company ahead to overreach the Missouri companies and get

-the ferry before they could arrive, and also build a raft for us to

-cross on, kill game, etc. The men say it is about seventy miles to

-where we cross the river. Nineteen wagons were sent ahead and about

-forty men to attend to this business. All of Brother Crow's company

-went, Aaron Farr, J. Redding, the cutter, etc., being five wagons from

-the 1st division and fourteen from the 2nd. They started about half

-an hour before we started. We proceeded at 7:45 and immediately after

-starting had to cross a very steep gulf, being difficult for teams to

-get up, though it was not long. Soon after this, four men passed us

-with pack horses and mules. They say they are from Pueblo and going

-to Green River; they told others they were from Santa Fe and going to

-San Francisco. We found the road very hilly and uneven and crooked as

-yesterday. At three and three quarters miles passed over a branch of

-the La Bonte, a stream about ten feet wide but not deep. The descent

-and ascent being very steep, most of the teams required assistance to

-get up. For half a mile before we crossed this stream and three and a

-half miles after, our road lay over a kind of red earth or sand about

-the color of red precipitate. Most of the rocks and bluffs are of the

-same red color, only a deeper red. It affected my eyes much from its

-brightness and strange appearance. About one and a quarter miles west

-of the creek President Young and Kimball saw a large toad which had

-horns on its head and a tail. It did not jump like a toad but crawled

-like a mouse. This was seen near a large pile of rock or rather a hill.

-At 12:40 we halted for noon having come ten miles since breakfast.

-There is little water here for the teams. The day fine and nice west

-breeze. The road is very crooked, hilly, and mostly rocky, many large

-cobble stones covering the bluffs, the land barren and little grass.

-The ground here is covered with large crickets which are so numerous,

-to walk without stepping on them is almost impossible.

-

-At half past two o'clock we were on the move again. I put up another

-guide board a little east of the creek: "70 miles." We found the road

-much better this afternoon, not being so uneven, and tolerably straight

-excepting a bluff to climb a mile from the creek. At the foot of this

-bluff I saw a toad with a tail like a lizard, about three inches long.

-It had no horns but there was the appearance of horns just coming on

-each side of the head. It resembles a lizard in color, tail, and motion

-when running swiftly through the grass. Its hide appeared hard and on

-its sides appeared numerous little sharp pointed fins or pricks. In

-other respects it resembled any common toad. At a quarter past one we

-formed our encampment on the east banks of a stream about a rod wide,

-two feet deep and swift current. It is named the A La Pierre. We have

-traveled eight miles this afternoon and during the day 19¼. We have a

-good place for feed but the higher land is barren, abounding only in

-wild sage. There are still some high bluffs around but the country west

-appears much more level. The evening fine but cool. After traveling six

-and a quarter miles from noon halt, passed a small creek, and again

-three quarters of a mile farther passed the same creek. Sterling Driggs

-killed an antelope and a deer.

-

-Thursday, June 10

-

-The morning calm and very pleasant. There is wild mint growing on the

-bank of this stream in great plenty and abundance of wild sage on all

-the higher land. The mint smells natural, but the sage smells strong

-of turpentine and a little like camphor. Started at half past seven

-and found good roads. At four and a half miles passed over a small

-creek about three feet wide but not much water, being only a few inches

-deep. A mile farther passed another creek about five feet wide, clear

-water and plentiful. At 11:20 we halted on the east bank of a stream

-about thirty feet wide and tolerably deep with a rapid current, having

-come eight and three quarters miles. We have had several long, steep

-bluffs to ascend and descend and two places at the creeks where it was

-hard for the teams to get up without help. We saw one of the Missouri

-companies a few miles ahead of us. Edmund Elsworth killed an antelope.

-There is good feed here and plentiful. Our road has been crooked mostly

-winding northward. The creek on which we camped last night is named

-A La Pierre and about a mile from where the road crosses, it runs

-through a tunnel from ten to twenty rods under the high rocky bluffs.

-The tunnel is high enough for a man to stand upright in it, and when

-standing at the entrance one can see the light through on the other

-side. It seems as though this tunnel has been formed by some strange

-feat of nature. Several of the brethren went to see it. Lewis Barney

-and another brother each killed an antelope which were brought into

-camp during the halt and divided. The brethren carried the two last

-about five miles on their shoulders. We have learned today from one

-of the travelers that there is one man living and making a farm in

-the Bear River valley. At a quarter to 2:00 we continued our journey.

-Found the road somewhat more even and good traveling. I put a guide

-board this morning at 80 miles from Fort John, and this afternoon after

-traveling three and a quarter miles from noon halt I put up another

-mark at 90 miles. Just as I finished setting it, I looked forward and

-saw the Platte river again. After descending a half a mile we were on

-its banks, being 77 miles since we left it on Saturday last, after

-having wound around among the hills and bluffs all the way. When we

-arrived near the river the road was more level but sandy and harder

-on our teams. There are also some low places where the water stands,

-making it soft, but scarcely any feed for teams since we left the creek

-at noon. At a quarter to six we passed another stream about thirty feet

-wide and two feet deep, swift current and clear water. Name is Deer

-Creek. There is plenty of timber on its banks and abundance of good,

-rich grass for our teams. We formed our encampment on the west bank

-in a grove of large timber. About a mile back we passed a sick horse

-supposed to be left by some of the companies ahead. Brother Markham

-bled it in its mouth, but could not get it along and had to leave it.

-The distance we have traveled this afternoon was nine miles and during

-the day 17¾ miles, the last five miles being nearly a west course. Soon

-after we camped, Horace Whitney went to fishing in this stream. We were

-soon satisfied that there are plenty of fish in it. I got a line and

-went to fishing also and in a few minutes caught two which would weigh

-a half a pound each. We then went a piece below the ford and by fishing

-till a little after dark I caught twenty-four nice fish which would

-average over a half a pound each, and some of them would weigh over a

-pound each. The ones I caught were of a very bright color and very much

-resembled the herring, but much larger. Horace caught a cat fish and

-two suckers. A number of brethren also caught more and some less. There

-is abundance of fish in this stream and we might have caught enough

-for all the camp with the sein but it is ahead with those who are gone

-to build a raft. The Twelve and some others walked out together to the

-river about a quarter of a mile up the stream. Some of the brethren

-discovered a rich bed of stone coal where any quantity might easily be

-dug, and it is said to look good and is a fine quality. The land here

-on the bottom is rich and would doubtless yield good crops of grain and

-potatoes, etc. Lewis Barney killed an antelope this afternoon which was

-distributed as he saw fit, inasmuch as he was not appointed a hunter.

-The evening is very fine, calm and pleasant indeed.

-

-Friday, June 11

-

-Arose at four o'clock to try and get some more fish. Morning fine and

-warm, but caught only four. I procured a sample of the stone coal from

-G. A. Smith. It looks good. This place reminds me of England. The

-calm, still morning with the warbling of many birds, the rich grass,

-good streams, and plenty of timber, make it pleasant. At 7:35 we again

-continued our journey along the banks of the river which appears

-somewhat wider here than at Laramie. At two and a half miles we passed

-a deep hollow, the banks on both sides being very steep. At four and a

-quarter miles put up a guide board at 100 miles from Laramie, having

-traveled it in a week lacking two and a quarter hours. At 11:50 we

-halted for noon in a grove of timber where there is plenty of good

-feed for a large company. The land since morning has been generally

-level, but sandy and no grass. The road somewhat crooked. About a mile

-back we came around a bend to the south caused by a deep ravine. We

-had to travel more than a mile to make a quarter of a mile direct.

-William Empey, Edmund Elsworth, and Francis M. Pomeroy, each killed an

-antelope. Several of the brethren have taken an interest in the guide

-boards and wherever they see a piece of board sufficiently large, they

-pick it up and preserve it. By this means we have now got enough to

-last 200 miles. The distance we have traveled since morning is nine and

-a quarter miles, being 105 miles in the week including Sunday, or 100

-miles in six days. About half an hour after we halted, Brother Joseph

-Hancock came in with the hind quarters of an antelope which he killed

-about three miles back. He could not carry the remainder and left it on

-the ground. At two o'clock we started again. After traveling one mile,

-we crossed a very crooked, muddy creek, about twelve feet wide and over

-a foot deep. The descent and ascent were both bad on account of a crook

-from one to the other. There is plenty of feed on its banks, but no

-wood. Five and three-quarters miles farther another muddy creek about

-three feet wide and bad to cross on account of the clay being very soft

-in its banks. The balance of the road good, but considerably crooked.

-At half past five o'clock we came to a halt on account of seeing a

-number of wagons about a half mile ahead which proved to be two of

-the Missouri companies camped on the banks of the river and preparing

-to cross here. It was also ascertained that there is no camping place

-beyond them unless we go some distance. It was decided to turn off to

-the river opposite where we are and camp for the night and the wagons

-proceeded accordingly. We went a half a mile from the road and at six

-o'clock formed our encampment near the river where there is plenty of

-timber, having come on the road this afternoon seven and three-quarters

-miles and during the day seventeen miles, exclusive of the distance we

-turned off to camp. The feed here is good and plentiful. The region on

-the banks of the river is pretty level, but a few miles to the south

-there are very high bluffs. Very little chance for feed except in

-places on the banks of the river and generally where there is timber.

-These Missourian companies inform us that the regular crossing place is

-twelve miles farther and that our brethren are gone on there and also

-the balance of the Missourian companies. These men have got a light

-flat boat with them and have already got one load over. They say they

-have killed three bears between here and the bluffs. They have also

-killed a buffalo. There have been signs of bears seen by our brethren

-a number of times, but no bears for a certainty. We have only seen

-one buffalo since we left Laramie until today, when several have been

-seen. One of the Missourians brought a snow ball from the hill on the

-south. He gave Rockwood a piece of it, and he brought it to camp. Elder

-Kimball and several others saw it which now convinces us snow is yet

-lying on these high bluffs. Henson Walker, Charles Barnum and Brother

-Owens have each killed an antelope this afternoon, making eight during

-the day.

-

-Saturday, June 12

-

-Morning very fine with nice east breeze. Brother Markham has learned

-this morning that Obadiah Jennings was the principal in killing Bowman

-in Missouri. Bowman was one of the guard who let Joseph and Hyrum and

-the others get away when prisoners in Missouri. The mob suspected him

-and rode him on a bar of iron till they killed him. At a quarter past

-eight o'clock we continued our journey. At one and a half miles crossed

-a deep gulch pretty difficult to descend but not bad to ascend. One and

-three-quarters miles farther, we crossed a small creek about two feet

-wide on a bridge which the brethren fixed, they having started ahead

-of the wagons for that purpose. One mile beyond the last mentioned

-creek we crossed another muddy stream about five feet wide, and one

-and a half feet deep. At a quarter to 12:00, we halted after crossing

-another large ravine, having traveled seven and three-quarters miles

-over a sandy, barren prairie. In some places it is soft, although the

-soil is much like clay in appearance. The road somewhat crooked, and

-the day fine and warm. During the halt, Brother Rockwood called upon

-the brethren to help fix another ravine immediately west of us. Many

-turned out and it was soon done. James Case and S. Markham went to the

-river opposite here to see if it could be forded. They waded their

-horses over and found the water about four feet six inches deep in the

-channel and the current very swift. Of course it could not be forded

-with loads in the wagons, but the loading would have to be ferried in

-the boat. They made a report of this kind on their return to camp and

-about the same time Brother Chesley came down from the brethren ahead

-and reported their progress and the nature of the crossing place, etc.

-A number of the brethren in company with Elder Kimball and Chesley

-went to the river opposite the camp to decide whether to cross here or

-go on. Brother Markham and Case again went over, but it was finally

-concluded to go up to the other ferry. We accordingly started at half

-past two. I went ahead on foot. At three and a quarter miles, crossed

-a creek about five feet wide. At half past four the encampment was

-formed on the banks of the river, having come four miles, and during

-the day eleven and a quarter. It is about a half a mile from our camp

-to the place where they ferry. I arrived at the brethren's camp at four

-o'clock and learned that they arrived here yesterday about noon. Two

-of the Missourian companies arrived about the same time. The brethren

-concluded that a raft would be of no use on account of the swiftness of

-the current. The Missourian company offered to pay them well if they

-would carry their company over in the boat and a contract was made to

-do so for $1.50 per load, the brethren to receive their pay in flour at

-$2.50 per hundred. They commenced soon after and this evening finished

-their work, and received the pay mostly in flour, a little meal and

-some bacon. They have made $34.00 with the cutter all in provisions

-which is a great blessing to the camp inasmuch as a number of the

-brethren have had no bread stuff for some days. During the afternoon

-yesterday, one of the men of the Missourian company undertook to swim

-across the river with his clothes on. When he reached the current

-he became frightened and began to moan. Some of our men went to him

-with the cutter and arrived in time to save his life. The Missourian

-company seem to feel well toward us and express their joy at having got

-across the river so soon. Rodney Badger exchanged wagons with one of

-them and got a wagon as good as his own, only the tire wants setting.

-He got a horse, 100 lbs. flour, 25 lbs. of bacon and some crackers

-to boot. The provisions and horse are considered to be worth as much

-as his wagon. Since the brethren arrived here they have killed three

-buffalo, a grizzly bear and three cubs, and two antelope. The buffalo

-are very fat and the meat is good and sweet. According to the idea of

-some French travelers camped here, the buffalo are making down east

-behind the hills opposite here, which they say is a certain sign that

-the Indians are on Sweet Water hunting them. The brethren say that the

-buffalo are very plentiful back of these hills. When I returned to camp

-I learned that Tunis Rappleyee and Artemas Johnson were missing, the

-former having started for the hills to get a little snow; the latter

-having been hunting all day. A company were sent out with the bugle to

-find them. Brother Rappleyee returned about eleven o'clock. Johnson was

-found by the brethren who returned still later. All agreeing with the

-report that the hills are eight or ten miles distance, although they do

-not appear more than one mile. There were four antelope killed by the

-brethren but divided according to the feelings of those who killed them.

-

-Sunday, June 13

-

-The morning fine and pleasant. At nine o'clock the brethren assembled

-in the circle for prayer and after they had spent some time, Elder

-Kimball arose and addressed them exhorting them to be watchful and

-humble, to remember their covenants and above all things avoid

-everything that will lead to division, etc. He made use of the

-similitude of the potter and the clay to show that every man had the

-privilege of being exalted to honor and glory if he did not mar in

-the hands of the potter, but would continue passive, etc. His remarks

-were very touching and appropriate to our circumstances. President

-Young followed next on the "Liberty of the Gospel" showing that it

-guarantees all fullness of liberty to every man which fact will tend to

-his salvation and increase, but does not give us liberty to break the

-laws of God, to wander off to the mountains and get lost, nor to kill

-the works of God's hands to waste it, etc. He was followed by Elder

-Pratt on the subject of our avoiding all excesses of folly of every

-description, inasmuch as it disqualifies from the society of just men

-and angels. He exhorted the brethren to be watchful and to seek after

-wisdom and knowledge. The meeting was dismissed at half past twelve

-and a company were then dispatched to get poles to lash the wagons

-together to prevent their rolling over when crossing. Another company

-were sent over the river to build a raft to cross over provisions, etc.

-The brethren are gone to work and are diligently preparing to cross the

-river tomorrow. The day has been very hot, more like a summer day than

-any we have yet had on the journey. The ground seems to be alive with

-the large crickets, and it is said that the bears feed on them and pick

-them up very fast. A person who has never seen them could form no idea

-of the vast numbers of crickets in this region. I spent the day writing

-in Elder Kimball's journal. Phineas Young came in from the mountain,

-having killed a deer.

-

-Monday, June 14

-

-Morning cloudy and cool. At four o'clock the first division commenced

-ferrying their goods over the river in the cutter and some time

-afterwards commenced taking the wagons across on a raft which proved

-to be very slow work. The second division also began to take their

-goods over on a raft but the current was so strong they only took two

-loads over in it and then quit. The second division then got a rope

-stretched across the river from shore to shore and lashing two wagons

-fast together to keep them from rolling over, they dragged them over

-by the rope, letting them drift with the current to save breaking the

-rope. When the wagons struck on the sand on the other side the upper

-one keeled over, and finally rolled over the other one, breaking the

-bows considerably and losing iron, etc., in the wagon to the amount of

-$30.00 belonging to John Pack. The other wagon had the reach broken

-and some of the bows. They next lashed four wagons together abreast

-and dragged them over the same way. All got over well except the upper

-one which turned on its side, but it was righted again without damage.

-They next tried one wagon alone, but as soon as it got into the current

-it rolled over and over, breaking the bows pretty badly. The plan of

-taking one wagon at a time on a raft is the safest, no accident having

-occurred with it and the wagons got over dry but it is very slow and

-would take us three or four days to get all the wagons across. The wind

-blows strong from the southwest which is much to our disadvantage. At

-3:30 we had a very heavy thunder storm. The rain was heavy indeed,

-accompanied by hail and as strong a wind as I ever witnessed. After

-the storm was over the ferrying was continued, getting my trunk, etc.,

-and the loads in Brother Johnson and Harmon's wagons over, and also

-Harmon's wagon, Johnson's being got over just before the storm. It took

-till nearly ten o'clock to get the loading into the wagons and get

-regulated. The river has been rising all day and has risen very fast

-since the storm. The men have tried hard, much of the time being in the

-water and sometimes up to their armpits which is very fatiguing indeed.

-When they quit at night the first division had got eleven wagons over,

-the second division twelve, making twenty-three wagons after a very

-hard day's labor. There was no difficulty in getting the freight over

-for one man can carry it in the cutter faster than all the rest of the

-camp can get the wagons over.

-

-Tuesday, June 15

-

-The morning fine but very windy. The brethren continued ferrying wagons

-over on the raft and also built two other rafts. The wind being so high

-they could not get along very fast. In the afternoon they commenced

-driving over some of the horses and cattle belonging to Brother Crow's

-company. They neglected to take the lariats off the horses and the

-buffalo horse was soon seen to be drowning. Some of the men immediately

-went to it with the skiff and dragged him to the shore but could not

-succeed in bringing him to life. His natural make seemed to hurt him

-from swimming. The rest all got over safely. The cattle got over

-safely also; the current was very strong, the wind high and the river

-rising which made it look dangerous to swim the cattle across. It was

-concluded today to leave several brethren here to make a boat and

-keep a ferry till the next company comes up. By that means they will

-probably make enough to supply a large company with provisions. We have

-learned from a Missourian that there is a large company of emigrants

-coming up on the north side of the Platt above Grand Island. There are

-doubtless some of our brethren and if so they will probably reach us

-before we get through. The day continued windy and somewhat inclined to

-storm, but they succeeded in getting nearly twenty wagons over before

-night.

-

-Wednesday, June 16

-

-The morning fine but strong west wind. The brethren continue ferrying.

-A company have gone back about three miles to make two canoes on which

-they intend to build a boat to be used here till the next company

-comes up. Another company also went about half a mile up the river to

-make slabs or puncheons to lay on the canoes. A while before dark the

-brethren returned from below with two good canoes twenty-five feet

-long each and nearly finished and ready to put together. The ferrying

-continued all day but with great difficulty on account of the strong

-wind blowing down stream. When they started over with Brother Goddard's

-wagon the wind was blowing strong. James Craig and Wordsworth were on

-the raft with poles and when they got nearly half way across Brother

-Craig's pole stuck in the sand and threw him overboard. He swam back

-to shore and in spite of Brother Wordsworth's exertions, the wind

-and current carried the raft about two miles down the river. It was

-finally landed by the help of the cutter and without accident. They

-have had three rafts working today, two of which they now work by oars

-which are proving to be far superior to poles in this strong current.

-At the close of day there were still a number of wagons on the south

-shore. Those which had been brought over could not be easily counted on

-account of their being scattered all along the banks of the river for

-about a mile in length. It was now contemplated to leave a company of

-brethren at this ferry to ferry over the gentile companies for a dollar

-and a half a load till the next company of our brethren arrive. This is

-the object for which the new boat is being built. They will thus earn

-a good stock of provisions for themselves and be prepared to set the

-brethren of the next company over without delay and will also be able

-to preserve the boat for our use, for it is the instructions of the

-President that when they have ferried our brethren over to cache the

-boat and come on with them.

-

-Thursday, June 17

-

-The morning fine but windy and cold. The brethren renewed the ferrying

-early and soon after noon they had got the last wagon safely over

-which was a matter of rejoicing to all the camp. Two companies of the

-Missourians had arrived and made application to be set over at a dollar

-and a half a load. When the contract was made with the first company to

-be sent across as soon as our wagons were over, the other company of

-ten wagons offered to pay the brethren 50c per man extra if they would

-set them over first, making $5.00 over the stated price for ferriage

-being ten of the brethren to work at it. Colonel Rockwood had made a

-contract to the above effect with the first company and did not like to

-break it. However, he received a hint that this was Colonel Markham's

-day for the use of the boat and consequently Colonel Markham had a

-right to take the last offer if he chose. He took the hint and they

-went to work forthwith at a dollar and a half a wagon in provisions

-at Missouri prices and 50c extra per man in what they preferred for

-themselves. The afternoon and evening was very cold indeed with a very

-strong wind. After President Young and Kimball got their wagons over,

-being about the last, orders were given for the camp to come together

-and form the wagons in a circle near the ferry. It took till near dark

-before all the wagons got up. The ferrying was continued all night and

-till daylight at which time many of the Missourians' wagons in the two

-companies were over.

-

-Friday, June 18

-

-Morning very cold and windy. The brethren continued working at the

-new boat, others continued ferrying the Missourians' wagons over. It

-was concluded not to start today but wait and assist in finishing the

-boat and also to take the provisions on which will be realized from

-these two companies. After dinner, I went with brother Pack to fish

-in the last creek we crossed about a mile and a half distance. We

-found the fish numerous and had good luck. I caught sixty-five very

-nice ones which would average half a pound weight each. About six

-o'clock I started back but found I had got more than I could easily

-carry to camp. However, when I got about half way, Brother Cloward

-met me and helped to carry them. We arrived at the camp about sundown

-pretty well tired. The afternoon was very warm and pleasant. When we

-arrived the Twelve and some others were going to council. I went with

-them. The names of those who are appointed to tarry were read over as

-follows: Thomas Grover, John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, Appleton Harmon,

-Edmund Ellsworth, Francis M. Pomeroy, William Empey, James Davenport,

-and Benjamin F. Stewart. Thomas Grover was appointed captain. The

-President then referred to Brother Glines who was wishful to stay

-but the president said he had no council for him to tarry, but he

-might do as he had a mind to. Some explanations followed by Glines,

-but the unanimous feeling of the brethren was to have him go on. The

-President preached a short sermon for the benefit of the young elders.

-He represented them as being continually grasping at things ahead

-of them which belong to others. He said the way for young elders to

-enlarge their dominion and power is to go to the world and preach and

-then they can get a train and bring it up to the house of the Lord with

-them, etc. The letter of instructions was then read and approved by the

-brethren and the council was then dismissed.

-

-Saturday, June 19

-

-Morning fine but cool. At 7:50 the camp started out again in good

-health and spirits and the teams in very good order. It was remarked

-by several that their stock had fattened so much while stopping at

-the ferry, they hardly knew them. The grass appears to be rich and

-good. The first six miles of the road was nearly in a west direction

-over several considerably high bluffs. At that distance the road turns

-suddenly to the south and rises up a very high bluff which is upwards

-of a mile from the foot to the summit. There is some interesting

-scenery on the top of this bluff, especially a range of rough, coarse,

-sandy rocks of a dark brown color, rising abruptly above the surface

-of the land in huge masses and ranging east and west. The descent

-on the south side was rough, crooked and uneven, and about half way

-down was a bed of white earth mixed with black in places and others

-yellow. In one place you can pick up small fragments of rock of each

-color within a yard of each other. Towards the foot, the road is still

-more uneven and there are several steep pitches and rises. At one

-o'clock we halted for noon on a spot of good grass about a quarter of

-a mile from a small spring which is the first water we have come to

-since leaving the ferry which is eleven and a quarter miles. There

-is no timber nearer than the bluffs probably two miles away and that

-is small cedar and little of it. The Red Buttes are nearly opposite

-to this place towards the southeast and appear to be two high bluffs

-of red earth or sand, presenting a very triangular, yet interesting

-appearance. After stopping about an hour it was decided to move on

-to the spring and we started accordingly and found it to be a small

-stream of water rising out of the quick sands. At the distance of

-twelve miles from the ferry there is quite a lake of water supposed

-to be supplied by a spring. Indeed we could see the water boil up out

-of the mud in several places. The grass on the banks of this lake is

-good and plentiful but no timber within two miles or upwards. After

-watering teams at the lake, at ten minutes to three we continued our

-journey, bearing near a southwest course over rolling prairie. At the

-distance of eight miles from the spring there is a steep descent from

-a bluff and at the foot there is a high ridge of sharp pointed rocks

-running parallel with the road for near a quarter of a mile, leaving

-only sufficient space for wagons to pass. At the south point there is a

-very large rock lying close to where the road makes a bend, making it

-somewhat difficult to get by without striking it. The road is also very

-rough with cobble stones. At 7:40 we formed our encampment in a small

-spot surrounded by high bluffs, having traveled this afternoon ten

-and a quarter miles and during the day twenty-one and a half which is

-the longest distance we have traveled in one day since we left Winter

-Quarters, and this is considered by all to be the worst camping ground

-we have had on the journey, but we were obliged to take it for there

-is neither wood, grass, nor water since we left the spring. The land

-being perfectly sandy and barren, and nothing growing but wild sage and

-a small prickly shrub something like those on the moors in Lancashire,

-England. There is some grass in this place for our teams but no wood.

-The brethren have to make use of the wild sage and buffalo chips to do

-their cooking. There are two small streams of water, one appears to

-come from the northwest and is not very bad water; the other is from

-the southwest and is so bad that cattle will not drink it. It is strong

-of salt or rather saleratus and smells extremely filthy. Its banks are

-so perfectly soft that a horse or ox cannot go down to drink without

-sinking immediately nearly overhead in thick, filthy mud, and is one

-of the most horrid, swampy, stinking places I ever saw. It was found

-necessary to keep a guard out to prevent the cattle from getting into

-it and orders were given to drive them down a little east where feed is

-pretty good and it is not so dangerous of their miring. The mosquitoes

-are very bad indeed at this place which adds to the loathsome, solitary

-scenery around. Porter Rockwell returned from hunting soon after we had

-camped and reported that he had killed a fat buffalo about two miles

-off. A team was sent to fetch in the meat which they did not return

-till long after dark. Elder Kimball saw six buffalo while riding ahead

-to look out a camp ground. They are represented as being more tame.

-Myers killed two buffalo, but took only the tallow and tongues and left

-the rest to rot on the ground. John Norton and Andrew Gibbons left the

-camp at the springs and went out to hunt, expecting we should stay

-there till Monday. Gibbons has not been seen or heard of since. Norton

-has returned and reports that he has killed a buffalo and left it back

-not far from the spring. About nine o'clock there was an alarm that an

-ox had mired. He was nearly covered but soon got out again.

-

-Sunday, June 20

-

-Morning fine, mosquitoes very bad. Two more oxen found almost buried

-in the mud and all hands appeared wishful to leave this place and

-at a quarter past five o'clock we moved out. The first mile was bad

-traveling, there being several steep pitches in the road making it

-dangerous for axletrees. A number of the brethren went ahead with picks

-and spades and improved the road somewhat. After traveling three and

-three quarters miles we halted for breakfast at seven o'clock beside a

-small clear stream of spring water about a foot wide, but plenty for

-camping purposes. The feed on its banks good and plentiful but no wood

-yet. Elder Kimball states that when he and Elder Benson were riding

-ahead last evening to look out a camping ground they came within a

-quarter of a mile of this place but were not near enough to discover

-the water. A while before they arrived here, as they were riding

-slowly along, they saw six men suddenly spring up from the grass to

-the left of the road. The men were clothed in blankets some white and

-some blue and had every appearance of being Indians and the brethren

-thought they were Indians. The six mounted their horses and started on

-in a direction parallel with the road. The brethren also kept on their

-course. In a little while one of the supposed Indians left the rest

-and rode towards the brethren and motioned with his hand for them to

-go back. They, however, kept on and paid no attention to his motion.

-When he saw them still coming, he wheeled round and joined the others

-who all put spurs to their horses and were soon out of sight behind a

-higher piece of land. Soon as they were out of sight Elder Kimball and

-Benson spurred their horses and rode to the ridge and as they arrived

-there they discovered a camp of the Missourians about a quarter of a

-mile to the left of the road and the six Indians were just entering

-the camp. The brethren were now satisfied that these Indians were

-Missourians and had taken this plan to keep us back from this good camp

-ground. It is considered as an old Missouri trick and an insult to

-the camp, and if they undertake to play Indian again, it is more than

-likely they will meet with Indian treatment. Their camp left here a

-little before we arrived this morning and it is now President Young's

-intention to press on a little faster and crowd them up a little. We

-have learned from one of the emigrants a few miles in our rear that

-Andrew Gibbons tarried with their camp over night. When he returned to

-the spring and found our camp gone and the Missourians' camp there, he

-told them of the dead buffalo killed by Norton. They went and fetched

-what meat they wanted and feasted on it, he joining with them and

-faring well. At a quarter past nine we proceeded on our journey. After

-traveling three miles, we arrived at the Willow spring and halted a

-little while to get water. This spring is about two feet wide and the

-water ten inches deep, perfectly clear, cold as ice water, and very

-good tasting. There is a willow grove extending for some distance

-above and below it which will answer very well for firing purposes.

-The grass is good and plentiful and it is one of the loveliest camping

-spots I have seen on the journey, though the land where the stream runs

-below the spring is soft and some danger of cattle miring. The spring

-is situated between two very high hills and is about three rods west

-of the road and shielded from the sun by a bank about eight feet high

-and the willow grove. A little piece before we arrived at the spring

-there are two very deep ravines to cross, which requires some care

-on the part of the teamsters to prevent accidents. At a quarter of a

-mile beyond the spring we began to ascend a very high hill which was

-one mile from the foot to the top and the ascent pretty steep. The

-summit of this hill is nicely rounding and considered to be much the

-highest we have traveled over. From the top can be seen a vast extent

-of country to the south, west, and north. For about twenty or thirty

-miles to the south there appears to be a tolerably level bottom over

-which our future road runs. Beyond this there are vast ranges of high

-hills whose summits are spotted with snow. In the distance to the

-southwest can be seen a small body of water which we suppose to be a

-part of the Sweet Water river. To the west the ridges of rocks or hills

-appear nearer. They are probably not over fifteen miles from us. On the

-north we can see hills a long distance. The one opposite Red Buttes,

-near the spring where we halted yesterday noon, appears only a few

-miles distance. The view from this hill is one of romantic beauty which

-cannot easily be surpassed and as President Young remarked, would be a

-splendid place for a summer mansion to keep tavern. We then descended

-on the southwest corner of the hill and found it to be just one mile

-farther to the foot. At the distance of three quarters of a mile

-farther we found a good place for feed, being plenty of grass, but no

-water nor wood. At a mile and a quarter still farther we crossed a very

-bad slough which is about a rod across and following the road, nearly

-three feet deep in water and stiff mud. Most of the wagons crossed a

-little to the right of the road and found it not so difficult to cross,

-yet very soft. There is also plenty of good grass at this spot. A mile

-beyond this slough we ascended a very steep bluff though not very high

-and the descent on the southwest is also very steep. At 2:45 we halted

-to feed in a ravine where there is plenty of grass and a good stream

-of water about three hundred yards south from the road but destitute

-of wood. We have traveled this forenoon nine miles over barren, sandy

-land being no grass only in the spots above mentioned. During the halt

-it was decided that President Young take the lead with his wagon and

-try to proceed a little faster. At five o'clock we again proceeded, the

-President's wagon going first; all the others keeping their places.

-I will here remark that it is the order of our traveling for each

-company of ten to go forward in their turn. The first ten in the first

-division taking the lead one day, then on the second day it falls in

-the rear of the first division, the second ten takes the lead and this

-continues till each company of ten have taken the lead one day a piece.

-Then the first division falls in the rear of the second division which

-also begins by companies of ten to take the lead of the road as stated

-above and when each ten have had their day, the second division again

-falls in the rear of the first which continues in the same order. Thus

-every man has his equal privilege of traveling one with another. After

-traveling two and a half miles we descended to the bottom land again

-and saw a small stream a little to the left of the road where there

-is plenty of grass. One and three quarters miles farther we crossed a

-creek of tolerably clear water about six feet wide and one foot deep,

-but neither grass nor timber on its banks. After traveling seven miles

-this afternoon we turned off from the road to the left and at 8:20

-formed our encampment on a ridge near the last mentioned creek where

-there is good feed, having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter

-miles, exclusive of allowance for turning from the road, and during the

-day twenty miles. We had been in hopes of reaching the Sweet Water but

-it appears we are yet some miles from it. The whole country around is

-entirely destitute of timber, not a tree to be seen, nor a shrub larger

-than the wild sage which abounds in all this region of country and will

-answer for cooking when nothing else can be found. Some anxiety is

-felt on account of the absence of Elder Woodruff and John Brown. They

-started ahead this morning with instructions to go on about fifteen

-miles and if they found a good place to camp, to stay. They have not

-been seen or heard of since. It is supposed they have fallen in with

-some of the companies either forward or back and have concluded to

-tarry with them over night.

-

-Monday, June 21

-

-Morning very fine and warm. From this place we can see a huge pile

-of rocks to the southwest a few miles. We have supposed this to be

-the rock of Independence. After breakfast I went to view it and found

-that it was a vast pile of rocks extending from south to north about

-five hundred feet and in width, one hundred feet. The rocks are large

-and seem piled on one another with the edges up. There is no earth

-on the ridge but a little drift sand in which there are currant and

-rose bushes growing. I saw a large mouse on the top which had a long

-bushy tail like a squirrel. It sat up and acted in every respect like

-a squirrel, but in size and color resembled a mouse. At 8:35 the camp

-proceeded onward. After traveling three and a quarter miles we arrived

-on a bed of saleratus which was a quarter of a mile across and on which

-were several lakes of salt water. This place looks swampy and smells

-bad. The beds of saleratus smell like lime, but the saleratus itself

-is said to raise bread equal to the best bought in eastern markets.

-Lorenzo Young gathered a pail full in a short time with a view to test

-its qualities. Large quantities may be gathered in a short time and

-when pulverized it looks clean and nice. We are now satisfied that the

-water we saw from the hills yesterday must have been some of these

-lakes as the Sweet Water is not yet in sight, but these being high,

-show at a long distance. The water is not very salty but brackish and

-tastes sickly. It is reported by travelers that these are poisonous,

-but it is probable that all the poison there is about them is their

-salt causing cattle to drink freely when they can get no other water,

-and the more they drink, the more thirsty they get till they burst

-themselves, which is said to be the effect of drinking the poison,

-viz., to burst. As we passed along a little farther we saw another

-large lake to the left and one to the right of the same nature, their

-banks mostly white with saleratus. At twelve o'clock we arrived on

-the banks of the Sweet Water, having traveled seven and a half miles

-over a very sandy road destitute of wood, water or grass. The distance

-from the upper ferry of the Platte river to this place is forty-nine

-miles by the roadometer. There has formerly been a ford here but lately

-emigrants have found a better ford higher up the river. At this place

-the river is probably seven or eight rods wide and over three feet deep

-at the ford, but in some places it is much deeper still. The current

-is very swift, the water a little muddy, but pleasant tasting. By

-watching it closely it is easy to see on the surface numerous small

-bright particles floating which at first sight might be supposed to be

-salt, however the water itself has not the least saline taste. On the

-banks of the river there is plenty of good grass but destitute of wood

-there being only one solitary tree to be seen and that stands beside

-this fording place. The only chance for fuel appears to be the wild

-sage and other small shrubbery occasionally growing in spots on the low

-banks. After we halted, Sister Harriet Young made some bread using the

-lake saleratus and when baked was pronounced to raise the bread and

-taste equal to the best she had ever used and it requires less of this

-than the common saleratus. A number of the brethren went back during

-the halt and filled their pails with it calculating to make use of it

-during our future journey. The day has been very hot and no wind which

-makes it unpleasant traveling. Elder Woodruff and Brown again joined

-the camp on our arrival here and reported that they had spent the night

-in one of the gentile camps which are now some miles ahead of us. There

-are many high hills or ridges of the granite rock in the neighborhood,

-especially in the east and west, all entirely destitute of vegetation

-and which present a very wild and desolate as well as romantic aspect.

-I can describe their appearance only by saying that it seems as though

-giants had in by-gone days taken them in wheelbarrows of tremendous

-size and wheeled up in large heaps, masses of heavy clay which has

-consolidated and become solid, hard rock. The rock Independence lies

-a little west of where we have halted and after dinner I went to view

-it as well as many others. It lies on the north bank of the river in

-this shape: The extreme southeast corner reaches to within about three

-rods of the river and runs in a direction northwest while the river

-at this place runs nearly a west course. It is composed of the same

-barren granite as other masses in this region and is probably 400 yards

-long, 80 yards wide and 100 yards in perpendicular height as near as

-I could guess. The ascent is difficult all around. Travelers appear

-to have ascended it mostly at the southeast corner where there are

-some hundreds of names of persons who have visited it, both male and

-female, painted on the projecting surfaces with black, red, and some

-with yellow paint. About half way up there is a cavern about twelve

-feet long and three feet wide at the bottom but at the top about ten

-feet wide and eight feet high, formed by a very large heavy mass of

-rock having sometime fallen over an opening or cavity leaving scarcely

-room enough for a man to enter. However there are three places by which

-it may be entered though not without difficulty. There are a number

-of names inside the cavern put on with black paint, doubtless being

-the names of persons who have visited it. On the top of the rock the

-surface is a little rounding something like a large mound with large

-masses of loose rock lying scattered around. Proceeding forward you

-descend, when nearly half way of the length, to a considerably lower

-surface which continues some distance and then rises high again to

-about the same height as the first section. On the top there are a

-number of small pools of water, no doubt collected during heavy rains

-and having no chance to run off, they stand until evaporated into the

-atmosphere. Some of the pools are eight inches deep and taste like rain

-water. It is more difficult descending from the rock than to ascend

-it on account of its being hard and slippery and nothing to hang on,

-and a visitor has to be careful or he will arrive on the ground with

-bruised limbs. At three o'clock p.m. they started on and on arriving

-at the rock found it to be one and a quarter miles from noon halt. We

-put up a guide board opposite the rock with this inscription on it.

-"To Fort John 175¼ miles. Pioneers, June 21, 1847. W. R." The

-letters W. R. are branded on all the guide boards at the doctor's

-request so as to have a mark that the Saints might know; and his

-brand is generally known by the Saints. After traveling on the banks

-of the river one mile beyond the rock, we forded over and found it

-nearly three feet deep in the channel. All the wagons got over without

-difficulty or much loss of time. We then continued a southwest course

-four and a half miles farther and arrived opposite Devil's Gate which

-lies a little to the west of the road; and a quarter of a mile beyond

-this, the road passes between two high ridges of granite, leaving a

-surface of about two rods of level ground on each side the road. The

-road then bends to the west and a quarter of a mile farther, passes

-over a small creek two feet wide but bad crossing on account of its

-being deep and muddy, requiring caution in the teamsters to prevent

-accident. President Young, Kimball and others went to view the north

-side of Devil's Gate and returning reported that the devils would not

-let them pass, or meaning that it was impossible to go through the

-gateway so called. We proceeded on a little farther and at 6:35 formed

-our encampment on the bank of the river having traveled this afternoon

-seven and three quarters miles, and during the day fifteen and a

-quarter. The feed here is good and plentiful and a little cedar can

-be obtained at the foot of one of the rocky ridges about a quarter of

-a mile back. After we had camped I went back to view the Devil's Gate

-where the river runs between two high rocky ridges for the distance of

-about 200 yards. The rock on the east side is perpendicular and was

-found by a barometrical measurements by Elder Pratt to be 399 feet 4¼

-inches high. The one on the west side is about the same height but

-not perpendicular bending a little from the river gradually to the

-top. The river has a channel of about three rods in width through this

-pass which increases its swiftness and, dashing furiously against the

-huge fragments of rock which have fallen from the mountain, makes

-a roar which can be heard plainly in the camp. One of the brethren

-fired off his rifle at the foot of the rock and the report resembled

-much like that of a cannon. Others tumbled fragments of rocks from a

-projection at the entrance about 150 feet high, which made a very loud

-rumbling sound caused by the echoes. The scenery is one of romantic

-grandeur and it seems wonderful how the river could ever find a channel

-through such a mass of heavy, solid rock. The view from this evening's

-encampment over the surrounding country is sublime. To the east, south,

-and southwest the Sweet Water mountains tower high and appear spotted

-with snow; and about twenty to thirty miles distance from the river to

-the west are also hills and ridges interspersed as far as the eye can

-reach, except the land immediately on the river which appears even for

-many miles. These high, barren, rocky ridges on the north side of the

-river seem to continue for many miles.

-

-Tuesday, June 22

-

-Morning fine. At 7:20 we continued our journey and about 200 yards

-from where we camped, crossed a very crooked creek about six feet wide

-descending from the southwest. After traveling three miles over heavy,

-sandy roads, we crossed another creek about six feet wide; and three

-and three quarters miles farther, a creek two feet wide. Somewhere near

-this last creek, Brother Lorenzo Young broke one of his axle trees

-which detained him some time. One of the Missourian companies came up

-soon after the accident and took his load into one of their wagons and

-by splicing a piece of wood on his axle tree, he was enabled to follow

-our camp. At 11:55 we halted on the banks of the river, having traveled

-ten miles over a very sandy, barren land, there being no grass only

-on the creeks and river banks. During the halt, Elder Pratt took an

-observation and found the latitude of this place 42° 28' 25". President

-Young went back to meet Lorenzo but soon found he was coming on with

-the Missourian company who were approaching near us. He immediately

-turned about and on arriving back gave orders to get up the teams and

-proceed so as to keep ahead of the other company who say they have

-traveled from Independence Rock without halting. However, they passed

-before we could start and got ahead of us. The day has been hot and

-a little wind. At 2:25 we continued, finding the road again leaving

-the river. At half a mile, we passed a very large lake on our left

-which covers an area of over 80 acres of land. Its banks are mostly

-white with the alkali or saleratus. After passing this lake the road

-runs south, passing between high sandy bluffs after which it again

-turns around gradually towards the west and descending a steep bluff

-over very heavy, sandy land. After traveling five and three quarters

-miles crossed a creek about six feet wide and a foot deep. The bank on

-each side is very steep and sandy, making it difficult for teams to

-get up. Here Sterling Driggs had his harness broken to pieces by his

-horses springing suddenly when attempting to rise out of the creek.

-They cleared themselves from the wagon which was hauled up by a yoke

-of oxen so as not to hinder the rest from crossing. The banks of this

-creek are well lined with sage instead of grass which is very large and

-thick on the ground on account of which Elder Kimball named this Sage

-creek. After passing this creek one and three quarters miles we again

-arrived on the banks of the river and continued to travel near to it.

-At two and a quarter miles farther crossed a creek three feet wide, but

-not much to be depended on for water. At 7:50 we formed our encampment

-at the foot of a very high gravelly bluff and near the river, having

-traveled this afternoon ten and three quarters miles and during the day

-twenty and three quarters miles over mostly a very sandy road. This

-is a very good camp ground, there being plenty of grass for our teams

-which is well worth traveling a few miles extra. From this place the

-country seems fortified by hills and mountains especially on the west.

-Lewis Barney and Joseph Hancock have each killed an antelope during the

-day, but there appears to be no buffalo in the neighborhood.

-

-Wednesday, June 23

-

-Morning fine and warm. After breakfast I went to the top of the

-high bluff expecting to get a good view of the country west but

-was disappointed in consequence of the many ridges or bluffs but a

-little distance beyond us. At seven o'clock the camp moved forward

-and immediately after saw a graveyard on the left of the road with a

-board stuck up with these words written on it: "Matilda Crowley. B.

-July 16th, 1830, and D. July 7, 1846." On reflecting afterward that

-some of the numerous emigrants who had probably started with a view

-to spend the remainder of their days in the wild Oregon, had fallen

-by the way and their remains had to be left by their friends far from

-the place of destination, I felt a renewed anxiety that the Lord will

-kindly preserve the lives of all my family, that they may be permitted

-to gather to the future home of the Saints, enjoy the society of the

-people of God for many years to come, and when their days are numbered

-that their remains may be deposited at the feet of the servants of God,

-rather than be left far away in a wild country. And oh, Lord, grant

-this sincere desire of thy servant in the name of Thy Son Jesus. Amen.

-After traveling one and a half miles we crossed a very shoal stream of

-clear, cold water about five feet wide. There is but little grass here

-although a number of bitter cottonwood trees grow on the banks. There

-being no name on the map for this creek, it was named Bitter Cottonwood

-Creek to designate it in our future travel. It is probable that this

-stream is caused by the melting of the snow on the mountains and if

-so, could not be depended on for a camp ground late in the summer.

-After passing this creek, the river runs between some of the high

-rocky ridges, the road at the same time bending a little southwest to

-pass around them. After traveling five miles beyond the last mentioned

-creek, we again descended to the banks of the river where would be a

-pretty good camp ground although the grass is not so plentiful as in

-many other places on the banks of the river. We traveled till 11:05 on

-the river banks then halted for noon where the road and river separated

-a little farther and hence we would probably not find grass again for a

-number of miles. The land continues very sandy making it hard on teams;

-our course about west, the day very warm with a light south breeze.

-We traveled eight and a half miles this morning. There are some small

-cedar trees on the rocky bluffs which is the only timber seen since we

-passed the Bitter Cottonwood. Latitude of this place 42° 31' 20". At

-1:10 we continued our journey and after proceeding half a mile, found

-the river turns between the granite ridges in a northwest direction and

-seems to have but a narrow space to pass through in several places. The

-road at the same place turns south to avoid the ridges for over a mile

-and then bends to the southwest for some distance farther. The road at

-the foot of these rocky hills is extremely sandy and heavy traveling.

-On arriving at the south side of the hills, we were suddenly cheered

-with a very plain view of the Wind river chain of the Rocky Mountains

-towering high up in the air and perfectly white with snow. Some of

-the peaks appear to run up very high, but we are evidently many miles

-from them yet. After we passed this place, the road gradually bends to

-the west and northwest and at the distance of six and three quarters

-miles from our noon halt brings us to the banks of the river again. We

-continued on the banks of the river till 6:20, at which time we formed

-our encampment, having traveled this afternoon eight and a half miles

-and during the day seventeen. As usual there is plenty of grass on the

-river banks but no wood. There are some dry buffalo chips and wild sage

-which answer tolerably well for cooking. The land over which we have

-traveled, except in the several places above mentioned, is perfectly

-barren except for wild sage which abounds, but there is scarcely a

-spear of grass to be seen. These granite ridges continue from the Rock

-Independence to this place, mostly on the north side the river. Here

-they recede from the river a few miles and then cease. There are two of

-the Missourian companies camped, one about a half a mile and the other

-a mile west of us and we are given to understand we have got a long

-distance to travel without grass or water. It is stated that a man from

-one of these companies left his company a few days ago and went ahead

-to examine the route, etc. On their arrival here they found him in one

-of these rocky hills hid up for fear of the Indians. He reports that he

-has been to the pass and that we shall find water about fourteen miles

-from here. He has come from the pass in two nights and hid up in the

-day time to avoid Indians, but has seen none. He says it is not over

-twenty-eight miles to the pass from here. After we camped, Burr Frost

-set up his forge and set some wagon tires and repaired the wheels of

-the wagons for one of the Missourians. There are no buffalo to be seen

-yet and not much game of any kind. Lewis Barney killed two antelope

-and the brethren mostly killed one or two every day. The Sweet Water

-mountains do not appear very high but have considerable snow lying on

-them in some places. They appear to run nearly parallel with the river

-to about from twenty to thirty miles distance to the south.

-

-Thursday, June 24

-

-Morning fine but cool. It was calculated to make an early start so as

-to pass the two companies of the Missourians and get the best chance

-for feed at night, but they started out a half an hour before we were

-ready. We proceeded onward at 6:15 and a little over a mile from where

-we camped, found the river again bending northwest while the road

-continues near a west course and soon rises a high bluff. On the top of

-this, we appear to have a level road for many miles. After traveling

-five miles from morning, we arrived at a level strip of land on the

-north side of the road where there is plenty of grass and apparently

-swampy and soft. It extends in the same direction with the road a

-mile and a half and appears to terminate where the road crosses the

-lower land although the grass and hollow continue southward for some

-distance. Just above where the road crosses at the west end there is

-some water standing around a small, circular, swampy spot of land

-probably about a half an acre. Near the edge at the northwest corner is

-a hole dug which is called the Ice Spring. The water in the hole smells

-strong of sulphur or alkali and is not pleasant tasting, but under the

-water which is over a foot deep there is as clear ice as I ever saw and

-good tasting. Some of the brethren had broken some pieces off which

-floated and I ate some of it which tasted sweet and pleasant. The ice

-is said to be four inches thick. The water is very cold although the

-weather is warm. A quarter of a mile farther than the spring, there is

-a small lake or spring of alkali on the left of the road and a little

-farther, still another lake. The latter is more pleasant tasting than

-the other, not being so strong of sulphur. It tastes very much like

-lye water mixed with salt. The ground around these lakes is white with

-alkali or saleratus and a number of the brethren picked up their pails

-full but we have learned that it ought to be used with care, it being

-so much stronger than common saleratus, if the same quantity is used

-it makes the bread quite green. After traveling from the ice spring

-ten and a quarter miles over a very uneven road, we descended a very

-steep bluff close in the rear of one of the Missourian companies. The

-other had halted a few miles ahead and we passed by them. While winding

-around and descending from this bluff we came in sight of the river

-again and about the same time. Elder Kimball picked up an Indian arrow

-point made of flint stone and nearly perfect. It was almost as white

-as alabaster. At 3:30 we tarried a little south from the road and

-formed our encampment in a line so as to enclose a bend in the river,

-having traveled seventeen and three quarters miles without halting on

-account of there being no water fit for cattle to drink. The feed here

-is very good and plenty of willow bushes for fuel. The river is about

-three rods wide and clearer and very cool. The last five or six miles

-of the road were not so sandy but hard and good traveling. One of the

-Missourian companies have gone on, but the other camped a piece down

-the river at the fording place. A while before dark when the brethren

-were fetching up their teams, John Holman, while bringing up President

-Young's best horse, having his loaded rifle in his hand, the horse

-undertook to run back past him and to prevent his running back, he

-jammed his gun at him. The cock caught in his clothes, the gun went off

-lodging the ball in the animal's body. It entered a little forward of

-the nigh hind leg on the under side of his belly making quite a large

-hole. The horse walked to camp but it is the opinion of many he cannot

-survive long. He appears to be in great pain, the sweat falling from

-his forehead in large drops. President Young is evidently filled with

-deep sorrow on account of this accident but attaches no blame to John

-who seems grieved very much. The brethren generally feel sorrowful,

-this being the second horse shot by accident on this mission.

-

-Friday, June 25

-

-President Young's horse is dead. The morning is fine but very cool. At

-twenty minutes to seven o'clock, we pursued our journey fording the

-river a quarter of a mile below where AVC left the road last night.

-We found it still nearly three feet deep and the current very swift.

-After proceeding a half a mile beyond the ford, we crossed a stream

-about a rod wide which appears to come from the northeast and empties

-into the river a little farther up. Half a mile beyond this stream, we

-turned from the river to the northwest and began to ascend a very high

-bluff which we found pretty steep and over a mile and a half to the

-top. The road then gradually bends around towards the river and begins

-to descend over hill and hollow and at four and a quarter miles from

-where we camped, strikes the river again and continues a quarter of a

-mile on its banks. Here would be a pretty good place to camp, there

-being sufficient grass for a large company. After traveling a quarter

-of a mile near the river we encountered another high sandy ridge, the

-road again winding to the north to cross it. The descent on the west

-side is very steep and unpleasant. We strike the river again after

-traveling one and a quarter miles from where we last left it, but it

-is the opinion of many that by fording the river twice at the foot of

-the ridge we could save a mile and they think it can be forded. Colonel

-Rockwood has paid particular attention to the place and reports that

-one hour's labor for 100 men would dig down the foot of the ridge so as

-to make it good passing and save rising the ridge and a mile's travel

-without fording the river. After leaving the west foot of this ridge,

-we crossed a stream about twenty-five feet wide and again a quarter of

-a mile farther the same, only about six feet wide. On examining it, we

-found it to be a branch of the river running around a piece of land

-about a quarter of a mile across and forming a semi-circular island.

-The last crossing was soft on both banks. The high sandy bluffs on

-each side the river seem to approach much nearer to each other and

-leave only a small strip of low land on each bank. At 11:20 passed

-a creek two feet wide and halted for noon having traveled eight and

-three quarters miles, the wind blowing very strong from the northwest

-and making it cold and unpleasant traveling and filling the wagons

-with dust. The latitude at this halt by Elder Pratt's observation

-is 42° 28' 36". At 1:20 we proceeded again, our road running on the

-river banks two miles then turning to the northwest and ascending a

-succession of hills one after another for three miles farther, winding

-around and over hill and valley in some places over a good hard road,

-and in other places over rocks and broken fragments of rock, making it

-severe on wagons and requiring great care in teamsters. About a half

-mile north of the road at the top of this ridge there is a heavy bank

-of snow which some of the brethren went to visit and amused themselves

-by snowballing each other. Brother Carrington says there is every

-appearance of a rich lead mine in the same place, he having examined

-the place minutely. The brethren brought some snow to the wagons and we

-ate some of it which tasted refreshing in the heat of the day. After

-arriving on the top of these ridges we began to descend gradually over

-rolling land, but the descent is not nearly equal to the ascent. At

-the distance of seven and a quarter miles from noon halt, we crossed

-a narrow wet swamp quite difficult for teams to get the loads over

-without help and one and a quarter miles beyond the swamp a creek a

-foot wide and a quarter of a mile farther still another one two feet

-wide. These all unite in one about 200 yards to the left below the

-middle creek and then appear to pass under a snow bank which at present

-forms a kind of bridge over the creek. At 6:45 we formed our encampment

-on the north banks of a creek about five feet wide, having traveled

-this afternoon eleven and a half miles and during the day twenty and a

-quarter. This creek is very clear and cold. Its banks are well lined

-with willows and about a mile below the camp there is a grove of white

-poplar in which house logs may be obtained sixteen feet long and a foot

-through. There are several banks of snow a little to the north and some

-of the brethren have found ice four or five inches thick and brought

-a quantity of it to camp. On the banks of the creek there are some

-groves of gooseberry bushes with small green berries on them. There are

-also some strawberry roots and flowers and a little white clover has

-been found, but there is yet no appearance of the great abundance of

-such things as travelers have represented. The land appears somewhat

-more likely to yield the nearer we approach to the mountains, but all

-calculations for farming in this region would be likely to fail on

-account of the scarcity of timber. It would only be natural to suppose

-that the nights are very cold here, while so much snow lies around. It

-requires considerable clothing to keep comfortable, but in the middle

-of the day it is equally hot. Some of the brethren have traveled up the

-banks of the Sweet Water river and represent it as tumbling and foaming

-over rocks and descending very rapidly on account of the great rise of

-the ground from noon halt to this place. They say it runs within a mile

-and a half south of this but it is probable it is only a branch of it

-as we are evidently not near the main branch yet. There is one of the

-gentile companies camped about a mile below, making the third company

-we have passed lately and it is the intention to keep ahead of them and

-have the advantage of the good feed and camping grounds.

-

-Saturday, June 26

-

-Morning very cold and considerable ice froze in the water pails during

-the night. At 7:40 we crossed the creek and pursued our journey. At one

-mile we passed a small creek which rises from springs a little south

-of the road where there is a small grove of small timber. Elder Pratt

-has gone ahead with the barometer to try to find the culminating point

-or highest dividing ridge of the South Pass as we are evidently at the

-east foot of the pass. Fremont represents that he did not discover the

-highest point on account of the ascent being so gradual that they were

-beyond it before they were aware of it, although in company with a man

-who has traveled it back and forth for seventeen years. At two and

-three-quarters miles beyond the last small creek, we crossed the branch

-of the Sweet Water about two rods wide and two feet deep, the water

-clear and cold. This would be a good camp ground were it not so cold,

-as it must be from the fact that large deep banks of snow are now lying

-on its banks both above and below the road. Where the snow doesn't lie,

-there is good grass and plenty of willow groves for fuel. Two and a

-quarter miles beyond this branch we crossed another stream about eight

-feet wide on an average, though where the ford is, it is nearly three

-rods wide and two feet deep. This water is also very clear and the

-banks well lined with willows and grass. It is considered a superior

-camping ground to the one back. There seem to be a great many antelope

-at the foot of the mountains which is about all the game to be seen.

-After crossing the last stream, we climb another high range of hills

-over a good road, gently rolling. From the top of this is a pleasant

-view of the surrounding country but all entirely destitute of timber

-except on and at the base of the mountains many miles distance from the

-road. We have also a good view of Table Rock to the southwest as well

-as the high, broken, white capped chain of the Wind River mountains on

-the north. At 12:40 we halted on the main branch of the Sweet Water

-having traveled eleven miles. The river here is about three rods wide,

-three feet deep and current very swift. The water is clear and cold as

-the snow which lies on its banks in places six or eight feet deep. This

-is a lovely place for a camp ground, there being abundance of good,

-rich grass about eight inches high and plenty of willows for fuel.

-Some of the boys and girls amused themselves by snowballing each other

-on one of the large snow banks a few rods below the camp. Soon after

-we halted Eric Glines came up, having left the brethren at the upper

-ferry on the Platte River on Wednesday morning. He camped one night

-alone, the other nights he camped with Missourians. He does not assign

-any reason why he followed us, but evidently considering to repent and

-obey council than to continue obstinate and rebellious. The weather is

-now warm and pleasant and but little wind. At 2:20 we moved onward,

-ascending again on pretty high land where we found good traveling. The

-latitude at our noon halt was 42° 22' 42". After traveling seven miles

-this afternoon we arrived on a level spot of lower land and some grass,

-and inasmuch as we have found no stream as laid down on Fremont's map

-since leaving the Sweet Water, neither is there much appearance of any

-for some miles farther, the wagons halted while President Young and

-some others went over the ridge to the north to look for a camp ground

-as some of the brethren said the Sweet Water was close by. President

-Young soon sent a message for the camp to proceed, leaving the road

-and taking a northwest course. At 6:45 we formed our encampment on the

-banks of the Sweet Water, at the distance of a little over a quarter

-of a mile from the road, having traveled this afternoon seven and a

-quarter miles, and during the day eighteen and a quarter. This is a

-good place to camp, there being plenty of grass and willows. There

-are many small pebbles of hard flint rock on the flat land a little

-back and some almost as clear as glass. Elders Kimball, Pratt and

-some others are some miles ahead and not having returned at dark, a

-number of the brethren were sent to meet them. They soon returned in

-company with Elder Kimball who reported that he had been on as much as

-six miles to where the head waters of the Atlantic divide from those

-of the Pacific--that Elder Pratt was camped there with a small

-party of men direct from Oregon and bound for the U. S. It is now

-a certainty that we are yet two miles short of the dividing ridge of

-the South Pass by the road. This ridge divides the headwaters of the

-Atlantic from those of the Pacific and although not the highest land

-we have traveled over, it may with propriety be said to be the summit

-of the South Pass. The Wind River mountains appear very high from this

-place but on the south there is very little appearance of mountains,

-Table Rock itself appearing but a little elevated.

-

-Sunday, June 27

-

-Morning fine but cold. The ox teams started at five minutes to eight

-and the remainder shortly after. We soon met eight of the Oregon men

-on their way back having over twenty horses and mules with them mostly

-laden with packs of robes, skins, etc. Several of the brethren sent

-letters back by them. At two and three-quarters miles, arrived at the

-dividing ridge where Elder Pratt took a barometrical observation and

-found the altitude 7,085 feet above the level of the sea. This spot

-is 278½ miles from Fort John and is supposed to divide the Oregon

-and Indian Territory by a line running north and south. At two miles

-farther we arrived at where Elder Pratt camped last night on the head

-waters of the Green River and although the stream is small, we have

-the satisfaction of seeing the current run west instead of east. The

-face of the country west looks level except far in the distance where

-a range of mountains peers up, their surface white with snow. There

-is good grass here but no timber nor in fact any in sight except on

-the mountains. Since leaving the pass we have descended considerably,

-winding around and between high bluffs or hills, but the road is good.

-One of the Oregon men is returning with us today and then intends to

-wait for the next companies, etc., and act as a pilot for them. His

-name is Harris and he appears to be extensively known in Oregon and

-the subject of much dispute on account of his having found out a new

-route to Oregon much south of the old one. He appears to be a man of

-intelligence and well acquainted with the western country. He presented

-a file of the Oregon papers commencing with February 11, 1847, and five

-following numbers for our perusal during the day. He also presented

-a number of the California Star published at Yerba Buena by Samuel

-Brannan and edited by E. P. Jones. I had the privilege of perusing

-several of these papers during the day but found little interesting

-news. Mr. Harris says he is well acquainted with the Bear River valley

-and the region around the salt lake. From his description, which is

-very discouraging, we have little chance to hope for even a moderately

-good country anywhere in those regions. He speaks of the whole region

-as being sandy and destitute of timber and vegetation except the wild

-sage. He gives the most favorable account of a small region under the

-Bear River mountains called the Cache Valley where they have practiced

-caching their robes, etc., to hide them from the Indians. He represents

-this as being a fine place to winter cattle. After halting some time

-we proceeded onward and crossed the stream which is about three feet

-wide, then halted on its banks at twelve o'clock, having traveled six

-and a quarter miles, the day warm. The latitude at this halt was 42°

-18' 58". At 2:25 we started again and proceeded over gently rolling

-land and good hard road till 6:40 when we formed our encampment on the

-west banks of the Dry Sandy, having traveled this afternoon nine miles

-and during the day fifteen and a quarter. The country west for many

-miles appears destitute of timber and the view is very extensive. There

-is very little grass to be seen anywhere and not much near this creek.

-There is but little water in the creek at first sight, but by digging

-and tramping on the quick sand, sufficient can easily be obtained to

-supply a large company. Elder Kimball has been on the road nearly two

-miles farther but discovered no chance for a camping ground better

-than this. Mr. Harris has described a valley forty miles above the

-mouth of the Bear River, and thirty miles below the Bear Springs which

-might answer our purpose pretty well if the report is true. It is about

-thirty miles long and fifteen miles wide and tolerably well timbered.

-We generally feel that we shall know best by going ourselves for the

-reports of travelers are so contradictory it is impossible to know

-which is the truth without going to prove it. It is three years today

-since our brethren Joseph and Hyrum were taken from us and it was the

-general feeling to spend the day in fasting and prayer but the gentile

-companies being close in our rear and feed scarce, it was considered

-necessary to keep ahead of them for the benefit of our teams, but many

-minds have reverted back to the scenes at Carthage jail, and it is a

-gratification that we have so far prospered in our endeavors to get

-from under the grasp of our enemies.

-

-Monday, June 28

-

-Morning fine but cool. Many of the brethren are trading with Mr. Harris

-for pants, jackets, shirts, etc., made of buckskins and also the skins

-themselves. He sells them high. The skins at $1.50 and $2.00; a pair

-of pants $3.00, etc. He will take rifles, powder, lead, caps or calico

-and domestic shirts in exchange but puts his own price on both sides

-and it is difficult to obtain even a fair trade. At half past seven we

-proceeded on our journey, Mr. Harris waiting for the other companies.

-After traveling six miles the road forks, one continuing a west course,

-the other taking a southwest course. We took the left hand road which

-leads to California. This junction of the road is 297½ miles from Fort

-John. We then continued to travel over a desert land yielding nothing

-but wild sage and occasionally a grass root and weeds until 1:30 when

-we arrived and halted for noon on the banks of the Little Sandy,

-having traveled thirteen and a half miles without signs of wood, water

-or feed for our teams. This stream is about twenty feet wide on an

-average but at the fording place over three rods, two and a half feet

-deep, muddy water and swift current. There is not much grass and no

-timber except willow bushes. There is a variety of roots bearing very

-handsome colored flowers. One of the brethren has picked up a large

-piece of petrified wood. It resembles the outside layer of a cottonwood

-tree next to the bark, and appears to have rotted and broken off short

-then petrified and turned to a solid, heavy, hard, flint stone, but

-retaining its original shape and appearance. At 4:15 we commenced

-fording the river and found it in no way difficult until a number of

-the wagons had gotten over and the banks began to be soft and muddy.

-Several of the latter teams required help. At 4:45 all were safely

-over with no loss except two tar buckets considered to be of no worth.

-We then proceeded on, expecting to go about eight miles farther, but

-after traveling a little over a mile we were met by Elder G. A.

-Smith who introduced us to Mr. Bridger of Bridger's Fort on his way to

-Fort John in company with two of his men. Mr. Bridger being informed

-that we had designed to call at his place to make some inquiries

-about the country, etc., he said if we would turn off the road here

-and camp, he would stay with us till morning. A camping place being

-selected we turned off from the road about a quarter of a mile and

-formed our encampment near the Sandy at six o'clock, having traveled

-this afternoon one and three-quarters miles, exclusive of allowance

-for leaving the road, and during the day fifteen and a quarter miles.

-We have pretty good feed here, enough to fill the teams well. A while

-after we camped, the twelve and several others went to Mr. Bridger to

-make some inquiries concerning our future route, the country, etc. It

-was impossible to form a correct idea of either from the very imperfect

-and irregular way he gave his descriptions, but the general items are

-in substance as follows:

-

-We will find better grass as we proceed farther on. His business is to

-Fort Laramie. His traders have gone there with robes, skins, etc., to

-fill a contract, but having started later than they intended the men at

-Laramie have taken advantage of the delay and he is going to see to the

-business himself. There is no blacksmith shop at his fort at present.

-There was one but it was destroyed. There have been nearly a hundred

-wagons gone on the Hastings route through Weber's Fork. They cross the

-Blacks Fork and go a little south of west from his place and pass below

-the mountains which cross Green river. The Green river runs over an

-extent of country of 400 miles. It is impossible for wagons to follow

-down Green river, neither can it be followed with boats. Some have gone

-down with canoes, but had great difficulty getting back on account of

-the rapid current and rough channel. Cannot pass the mountains close

-to the river even with horses. For some distance beyond this chain of

-mountains, the country is level and beyond that it is hard black rock

-which looks as if it were glazed when the sun shines on it, and so

-hard and sharp it will cut a horse's feet to pieces. When we get below

-the mountains, the Green River falls into a level country for some

-distance after which it winds through a mountainous country perfectly

-barren to the Gulf of California. From Bridger's fort to the salt lake,

-Hastings said was about one hundred miles. He has been through fifty

-times but can form no correct idea of the distance. Mr. Hastings' route

-leaves the Oregon route at his place. We can pass the mountains farther

-south, but in some places we would meet with heavy bodies of timber

-and would have to cut our way through. In the Bear River valley there

-is oak timber, sugar trees, cottonwood, pine and maple. There is not

-an abundance of sugar maple but plenty of as splendid pine as he ever

-saw. There is no timber on the Utah Lake only on the streams which

-empty into it. In the outlet of the Utah Lake which runs into the salt

-lake there is an abundance of blue grass and red and white clover. The

-outlet of the Utah Lake does not form a large river, neither a rapid

-current but the water is muddy and low banks. Some of his men have been

-around the salt lake in canoes. They went out hunting and had their

-horses stolen by the Indians. They then went around the lake in canoes

-hunting beaver and were three months going around it. They said it

-was 550 miles around it. The Utah tribe of Indians inhabit the region

-around the Utah Lake and are a bad people. If they catch a man alone

-they are sure to rob and abuse him if they don't kill him, but parties

-of men are in no danger. They are mostly armed with guns. There was

-a man opened a farm in the Bear River valley. The soil is good and

-likely to produce corn were it not for the excessive cold nights which

-he thinks would prevent the growth of corn. There is a good country

-south of the Utah Lake or southeast of the great basin. There are three

-large rivers which enter into the Sevier Lake unknown to travelers.

-There is also a splendid range of country on the north side of the

-California mountains calculated to produce every kind of grain and

-fruit and there are several places where a man might pass from it over

-the mountains to the California settlements in one day. There is a vast

-abundance of timber and plenty of coal. There is also plenty of coal

-in this region near the mountains. North of the California mountains

-there is walnut, oak, ash, hickory, and various kinds of good timber on

-and in the neighborhood of the mountains and streams southeast of the

-great basin. There can be a wagon road made through to it and no lack

-of water. The great desert extends from the salt lake to the Gulf of

-California which is perfectly barren. He supposes it to have been an

-arm of the sea. The three rivers before mentioned are southwest of the

-desert. There is a tribe of Indians in that country who are unknown to

-either travelers or geographers. They make farms and raise abundance

-of grain of various kinds. He can buy any quantity of the very best of

-wheat there. This country lies southeast of the salt lake. There is one

-mountain in that region and the country adjoining in which he considers

-if ever there was a promised land, that must be it. There is a kind of

-cedar grows on it which bears fruit something like juniper berries of

-a yellow color about the size of an ordinary plum. The Indians grind

-the fruit and it makes the best kind of meal. He could easily gather a

-hundred bushels off one tree. He has lived on this fruit and used to

-pick his hat full in a very short time. There are a great many little

-streams head in this mountain and many good springs. It is about twenty

-days' travel with horses from the salt lake, but the country to it is

-bad to get through and over a great part of it, nothing for animals to

-subsist on. He supposes there might be access to it from Texas. On one

-of the rivers there is a splendid copper mine, a whole mountain of it.

-It also abounds in gold, silver and has a good quick silver mine. There

-is iron, coal, etc. The land is good; the soil rich. All the valleys

-abound with persimmons and grapes which will make the best kind of

-wines. He never saw any grapes on the Utah Lake, but there are plenty

-of cherries and berries of several kinds. He thinks the Utah Lake is

-the best country in the vicinity of the Salt Lake and the country is

-still better the farther south we go until we meet the desert which

-is upwards of 200 miles south from the Utah Lake. There is plenty of

-timber on all the streams and mountains and abundance of fish in the

-streams. There is timber all around the Utah Lake and plenty of good

-grass; not much of the wild sage only in small patches. Wild flax

-grows in most of the valleys and they are the richest lands. He passed

-through that country a year ago last summer in the month of July, and

-they generally had one or two showers every day, sometimes a very

-heavy thunder shower but not accompanied by strong wind. By following

-under the mountain south of the Utah Lake we find another river which

-enters into another lake about fifty miles south of the Utah Lake. We

-shall find plenty of water from here to Bridger's Fort except after

-we cross Green River and travel five miles beyond it where we shall

-have to travel eighteen or twenty miles without water, but there is

-plenty of grass. After crossing Green River we follow down it four or

-five miles to the old station then cross over to a stream which heads

-in the mountains west. The station is more than half way from here to

-his place. We shall have no streams to ferry between here and the fort

-except Green River. The Indians south of the Utah Lake and this side

-the desert raise corn, wheat and other kinds of grain and produce in

-abundance. The Utah's abound more on the west of the mountains near the

-salt lake than on the east side, ten to one, but we have no need to

-fear them for we can drive the whole of them in twenty-four hours but

-he would not kill them, he would make slaves of them. The Indians south

-of the Utah Lake raise as good corn, wheat, and pumpkins as were ever

-raised in old Kentucky. He knows of a lead mine between the mountains

-and Laramie on a timbered creek near the Horseshoe creek. He has found

-lead there and thinks there is considerable silver in it. It can be

-found in a cave on the side of the mountain not far from the road.

-

-Such was the information we obtained from Mr. Bridger, but we shall

-know more about things and have a better understanding when we have

-seen the country ourselves. Supper had been provided for Mr. Bridger

-and his men and the latter having eaten, the council dismissed, Mr.

-Bridger going with President Young to supper, the remainder retiring to

-their wagons conversing over the subject touched upon. The evening was

-very fine but mosquitoes numerous.

-

-Tuesday, June 29

-

-Morning very pleasant till the sun got up a little, then it was very

-hot. We started at 7:40 and traveled over very good roads through

-barren land till 10:45 then halted for noon on the banks of the Big

-Sandy, having traveled six and three-quarters miles. The second

-division have passed over the river but the first division halted on

-the north side. This stream appears to be about seven rods wide at this

-place and about two feet deep in the channel, but it is not generally

-so wide, but deeper. There is some timber on its banks and plenty

-of grass in places for teams. At 1:30 we again proceeded, President

-Young and some others going ahead in the cutter wagon to look out a

-camp ground for the night. Our course still lies about southwest, the

-road generally good over gently rolling, hard, sandy land and in some

-places the surface is covered with loose fragments of hard rock. After

-traveling nine and a half miles President Young rode up and reported

-that we would have to go at least six miles farther before we could

-get feed. It was then a quarter after six, but the teamsters spurred

-up in order to get through. Most of the road after this for four miles

-was very hilly and uneven and in places the loose fragments of rocks

-made it very bad traveling, but many were thrown from the road by the

-spare men. The weather grew cooler towards evening, some large clouds

-rising in the west which favored the teams considerably. At 9:05 we

-found ourselves on the lowlands on the banks of the river again and

-formed our encampment, having traveled since noon seventeen miles and

-during the day twenty-three and three-quarters, which is the greatest

-day's journey we have made since leaving Winter Quarters. The camp was

-formed by moonlight. There seems to be plenty of feed for teams but

-no wood for fuel. Many of the brethren have gone down sick within the

-past three days and a number more this evening. They generally begin

-with headache, succeeded by violent fever, and some go delirious for

-a while. Brother Fowler was seized this afternoon and this evening is

-raving. It is supposed by some that this sickness is caused by the use

-of the mineral saleratus or alkali picked up on the lakes and surface

-of the land and it is considered poisonous. Some consider also that we

-inhale the effluvium arising from it, which has the like effect. It

-appears to be an article which ought to be used with great care if used

-at all. There has been no case considered dangerous yet, nor any of

-long duration.

-

-Wednesday, June 30

-

-Morning hot. We resumed our journey at 8:15, several others of the

-brethren being reported sick. President Young, Kimball and others rode

-ahead again. We found the roads very good but sandy and filling the

-wagons with dust. At 11:30 we arrived on the banks of Green River,

-having traveled eight miles and formed our encampment in a line under

-the shade of the cottonwood timber. This river is about sixteen to

-eighteen rods wide and altogether too deep to be forded. Its banks

-are well lined with cottonwood but none large enough to make a canoe.

-There are also many patches of wild apple trees, and rose bushes

-abound bearing pretty roses. This river is 338½ miles from Fort John

-or Laramie. There is a narrow strip of land which might answer for

-farming on each bank of the river. The grass grows good and plentiful

-but still not so much as has been represented. After dinner the

-brethren commenced making two rafts, one for each division, and a while

-afterwards Elder Samuel Brannan arrived, having come from the Pacific

-to meet us, obtain council, etc. He is accompanied by Smith of the

-firm of Jackson Heaton & Bonney, bogus snakers of Nauvoo. There

-is another young man in company with them. They have come by way of

-Fort Hall and brought with them several files of the California Star.

-They had eleven deaths on board their ship during their voyage over,

-the others I understand are doing well, raising grain, etc. Towards

-evening a storm blew up from the west and although we had no rain we

-had tremendous wind. The first division finished their raft before

-dark. There is a slough a little down the river where some of the

-brethren have caught some very nice fish, but the mosquitoes are so

-very troublesome it is difficult abiding out of doors.

-

-

-

-July 1847

-

-Thursday, July 1

-

-This morning found myself laboring under a severe attack of the fever,

-accompanied with violent aching in my head and limbs. The brethren

-commenced ferrying but got only fourteen wagons over on account of the

-very high wind.

-

-Friday, July 2

-

-The day was more pleasant and the ferrying continued more rapidly. I

-got over the river before noon but remained very sick. Afternoon the

-twelve had a council and decided to send three or four men back to

-serve as guides to the next company.

-

-Saturday, July 3

-

-The morning more unfavorable. The brethren got the last wagon over

-before noon, no accident having happened, and about the time they

-finished it commenced raining, accompanied by thunder and wind. It was

-concluded for some of the brethren to go on and look out a camp ground

-a few miles ahead so as to shorten the distance of the next day's

-travel. The brethren returned about noon and gave orders to harness up

-and proceed, and at 3:15 we moved forward and went on three miles, then

-formed encampment in the midst of an army of mosquitoes. These insects

-are more numerous here than I ever saw them anywhere, everything was

-covered with them, making the teams restive in the wagons. There

-is plenty of grass for teams and it is the intention to tarry here

-till Monday morning. At night President Young gave the brethren some

-instructions about trading at Fort Bridger and advised them to be wise,

-etc. Five men were selected to go back and meet the next company, viz.,

-Phineas Young, George Woodard, Aaron Farr, Eric Glines and Rodney

-Badger. They are to take the cutter wagon instead of each taking a

-horse which cannot be spared by the camp.

-

-Sunday, July 4

-

-The morning fine and warm. The five brethren have started back to meet

-the other company. President Young, Kimball and others went back with

-them to ferry them over Green River. Some of the brethren assembled

-for meeting in the circle. At 2:30 p.m. the brethren returned from the

-ferry accompanied by twelve of the Pueblo brethren from the army. They

-have got their discharge and by riding hard overtaken us. They feel

-well and on arriving in camp gave three cheers, after which President

-Young moved that we give glory to God which was done by hosannas.

-William Walker was with them but has gone back with the five brethren

-to meet his wife. The spot where we are now camped is opposite to

-the junction of the Big Sandy and Green River. On the other side the

-river there is a range of singular sandy buttes perfectly destitute

-of vegetation, and on the sides can be seen from here, two caves

-which are probably inhabited by wild bears. The view is pleasant and

-interesting. During the afternoon one of Brother Crow's oxen was found

-to be poisoned through eating some kind of a weed and was much swollen.

-I understand it was dead when they found it.

-

-Monday, July 5

-

-At eight o'clock we pursued our journey, many of the brethren still

-being sick though generally improving. After traveling three and a

-half miles on the bank of the river the road then leaves it bending

-westward. We have now a very pleasant view of the Bear River mountains

-far to the southwest, their summits capped with snow. We found the land

-somewhat rolling, destitute of grass and several very steep places of

-descent. At 4:45 we arrived on the banks of Blacks Fork and formed

-our encampment, having traveled twenty miles, the last sixteen and a

-half without sight of water. This stream is about six rods wide, very

-swift current but not deep. The bottoms on each side are very pleasant

-but not much grass for teams. There is one place in the road where we

-might have saved a crook of nearly a mile by digging down bank which

-would probably have detained us about twenty minutes, but it was not

-discovered till most of the wagons had passed over.

-

-Tuesday, July 6

-

-Morning very pleasant. We started on our journey at 7:50 and after

-traveling three and three-quarters miles, crossed Hams Fork, a rapid

-stream about three rods wide and two feet deep; and this would be a

-good place to camp, there being an abundance of high bunch grass on

-the banks. One and a half miles farther we crossed Blacks Fork which

-appears to be about eight rods wide and two and a half feet deep, but

-little grass near it. We then leave the river and wind over uneven

-road with many pitches caused by heavy rains washing the land, which

-is generally barren. After traveling eleven miles beyond the last

-stream, crossed a small creek about two feet wide but no grass. At four

-o'clock we crossed back over Blacks Fork and formed our encampment on

-its banks, having traveled eighteen and a quarter miles. At this place

-there is a fine specimen of the wild flax which grows all around. It

-is considered equal to any cultivated, bears a delicate blue flower.

-There is also an abundance of the rich bunch grass in the neighborhood

-of the river back and many wild currants. The prairies are lined with

-beautiful flowers of various colors--chiefly blue, red and yellow,

-which have a rich appearance and would serve to adorn and beautify an

-eastern flower garden.

-

-Wednesday, July 7

-

-This morning we proceeded at 7:35 and after traveling two and a half

-miles, forded Black's Fork once more. Here also is abundance of

-good grass, wild flax and handsome flowers. After traveling two and

-three-quarters miles farther, forded a stream about two rods wide and

-two feet deep, very swift current, also lined on its banks with bunch

-grass. At twelve o'clock we halted for noon on the banks of the last

-stream, having traveled nine miles over pretty rough road. The day

-very windy and filling the wagons with dust. Some of the wagons have

-gone on expecting to reach Bridger's Fort before they halt. At 1:40

-we moved forward and found the road more even, though in many places

-rendered bad by the cobble stones. After traveling seven and a half

-miles we arrived opposite to nine Indian lodges erected on the south

-of the road. Here we halted a while and found Tim Goodale here, one

-of the trappers who passed us at the Platte ferry. There are not many

-Indians here but they appear to have a great many handsome ponies. We

-then continued on and after fording four creeks on an average about a

-rod wide, we arrived at Fort Bridger which is proved by the roadometer

-to be 397 miles from Fort John. We went half a mile beyond the fort

-and formed our encampment after crossing three more creeks, having

-traveled this afternoon eight and three-quarters miles and during the

-day seventeen and three-quarters. The grass is very plentiful in this

-neighborhood and much higher than we have generally seen it. The whole

-region seems filled with rapid streams all bending their way to the

-principal fork. They doubtless originate from the melting of the snow

-on the mountains and roar down their cobbly beds till they join Black's

-Fork. Bridger's Fort is composed of two double log houses about forty

-feet long each and joined by a pen for horses about ten feet high

-constructed by placing poles upright in the ground close together,

-which is all the appearance of a fort in sight. There are several

-Indian lodges close by and a full crop of young children playing around

-the door. These Indians are said to be of the Snake tribe, the Utahs

-inhabiting beyond the mountains. The latitude of Fort Bridget is 41°

-19' 13" and its height above the level of the sea according to Elder

-Pratt's observations is 6,665 feet. It is doubtless a very cold region

-and little calculated for farming purposes. To the west is a pretty

-high mountain which appears well covered with timber. The country all

-around looks bleak and cold.

-

-Thursday, July 8

-

-Morning fine but high wind. It is concluded to stay a day here to

-set some wagon tires, etc. Many have gone to trade their rifles and

-some clothing for buckskins. H. Egan traded two rifles and got twenty

-pretty good skins for them. The day continued warm with high wind.

-Evening there was a council and some complaints listened to from George

-Mills against Andrew Gibbons. It was decided for Thomas Williams and

-S. Brannan to return from here and meet Captain Brown's company from

-Pueblo. Inasmuch as the brethren have not received their discharge nor

-their paw from the United States, Brother Brannan goes to tender his

-services as pilot to conduct a company of fifteen or twenty to San

-Francisco if they feel disposed to go there and try to get their pay.

-Williams came clothed with authority to arrest Tim Goodale or one of

-his men for stealing a horse at Pueblo, but he can get no encouragement

-from President Young to make the attempt.

-

-Friday, July 9

-

-We started at eight o'clock, the brethren who go back bidding good

-bye to the camp and proceeding on their back journey while we moved

-westward over pretty rough roads. After traveling six and a quarter

-miles, we arrived at the springs and halted a while to rest our teams.

-We then proceeded on three-quarters of a mile and began to ascend

-a long steep hill, near the top of which and eight miles from Fort

-Bridger, Elder Pratt took an observation and found the latitude 41° 16'

-11". Arriving on the top we found the table tolerably level for several

-miles then began to descend to the bottom again. The descent from this

-hill is the steepest and most difficult we have ever met with, being

-long and almost perpendicular. At three o'clock we crossed the Muddy

-Fork, a stream about twelve feet wide, and formed our encampment on the

-west bank, having traveled since the halt six and three-quarters miles

-and during the day thirteen. Here is plenty of tall bunch grass and

-a pretty good chance for our teams. The day has been windy, warm and

-dusty.

-

-Saturday, July 10

-

-Started this morning at eight o'clock, weather warm with tolerably

-high wind. After traveling three and a half miles we passed a small

-copperas spring at the foot of a mountain a little to the left of

-the road. The water is very clear but tastes very strong of copperas

-and alum and has a somewhat singular effect on the mouth. It runs a

-little distance over the red sand which abounds in this region and

-where it is saturated with water almost looks like blood at a little

-distance. After passing this spring the road winds around the foot of

-mountains gradually ascending for some distance till finally arriving

-on the summit of a high ridge. Here Elder Pratt took a barometrical

-observation and found the height to be 7,315 feet above the level of

-the sea. On arriving at the west side of the ridge two and a half miles

-from the last mentioned spring we found a very steep, rough place to

-descend and found it necessary to halt and fix the road. About half

-way down there is a place over huge rocks, leaving barely enough room

-for a wagon to get down, but by labor it was soon made passable. A

-little farther, the brethren had to dig a place considerably to make a

-pass between the mountains. President Young and Kimball labored hard

-with a number of others and in about a half an hour made a good road.

-At twenty miles from Fort Bridger, passed another spring and a little

-farther after arriving on the bottom land, the road turns nearly south

-through a beautiful low bottom filled with grass. At 1:45 we halted

-for noon, having traveled nine miles. Latitude 41° 14' 21". After

-halting an hour and a half we proceeded again and after traveling

-three and a half miles began to ascend the dividing ridge between the

-Colorado waters and the great basin. This mountain is very high and

-the ascent steep, rendering it necessary to make a crooked road to

-gain the summit. The height is 7,700 feet according to Elder Pratt's

-observations. The surface at the top is narrow. Here three bears were

-seen to run over a still higher mountain on the left. The descent was

-very steep, having to lock the wagons for half a mile. We then descend

-and travel on the bottom a few miles between high rugged mountains

-till the road seems suddenly to be shut up by a high mountain ahead.

-The road here turns suddenly to the left and goes east about 200 yards

-then winds again southwest. After ascending and descending another high

-ridge, we crossed a small creek about ten feet wide and at 7:45 formed

-our encampment on the southwest banks, having traveled this afternoon

-nine miles and during the day eighteen over the most mountainous course

-we have yet seen. After camping, Mr. Miles Goodyear came into camp. He

-is the man who is making a farm in the Bear River valley. He says it

-is yet seventy-five miles to his place, although we are now within two

-miles of Bear River. His report of the valley is more favorable than

-some we have heard but we have an idea he is anxious to have us make

-a road to his place through selfish motives. Elder Pratt has found a

-beautiful spring of clear, sweet, cold water about a hundred yards

-southwest from the camp. Water excellent.

-

-Sunday, July 11

-

-Morning fine with ice a quarter of an inch thick on the water pails.

-Walked on the mountain east with President Young and Kimball, from

-whence we had a pleasing view of the surrounding valley which is

-about ten miles wide. Abundance of timber on the mountains south

-and southwest and beyond that plenty of snow. After having prayers,

-we again descended and at the foot discovered a very strong sulphur

-spring. The surface of the water is covered with flour of sulphur and

-where it oozes from the rocks is perfectly black. The water in the

-creek shows sulphur very clearly and smells bad. During the day some of

-the brethren discovered an oil spring about a mile south. The substance

-which rises out of the ground resembles tar and is very oily. Some

-have oiled their gun stocks with it and oiled their shoes, others have

-gone to fill their tar buckets and are sanguine it will answer well to

-grease wagons. It is somewhat singular to find such a great contrast

-of substances within so short a distance. Here is pure water, sulphur,

-and oily tar within a mile of each other, and matter of curiosity all

-around for the contemplation of the curious. Porter, Brother Little

-and others have been out with Goodyear to view the route he wishes us

-to take. They represent it as being bad enough, but we are satisfied

-it leads too far out of our course to be tempted to try it. There are

-some in camp who are getting discouraged about the looks of the country

-but thinking minds are not much disappointed, and we have no doubt of

-finding a place where the Saints can live which is all we ought to

-ask or expect. It is evident the country grows better as we proceed

-west, and vegetation is more plentiful and looks richer. After dark, a

-meeting was called to decide which of the two roads we shall take from

-here. It was voted to take the right hand or northern road, but the

-private feelings of all the twelve were that the other would be better.

-But such matters are left to the choice of the camp so that none may

-have room to murmur at the twelve hereafter.

-

-Monday, July 12

-

-Morning cloudy and cool. We pursued our journey at 7:15. At one and a

-quarter miles rose a very steep, low hill, narrow but very steep on

-both sides. One half a mile farther crossed the Bear River, a very

-rapid stream about six rods wide and two feet deep, bottom full of

-large cobble stones, water clear, banks lined with willows and a little

-timber, good grass, many strawberry vines and the soil looks pretty

-good. About a half a mile beyond the ford, proceeded over another ridge

-and again descended into and traveled up a beautiful narrow bottom

-covered with grass and fertile but no timber. Four and three-quarters

-of a mile beyond Bear River, passed a small spring of good clear

-cold water. At 11:50 halted for noon in the same narrow bottom near

-a ridge of high, rough rocks to the right, having traveled nine and

-three-quarters miles. There is scarcely any wagon track to be seen,

-only a few wagons of Hasting's company having come this route; the

-balance went the other road and many of them perished in the snow; it

-being late in the season and much time was lost quarreling who would

-improve the roads, etc. There is a creek of clear water close by, deep

-but scarcely any current. President Young was taken very sick awhile

-before we halted. After resting two hours the camp moved on again,

-except President Young and Kimball's wagons, who concluded to remain

-there today on account of the President's sickness. After traveling one

-and a half miles we crossed the creek at the foot of a high mountain

-and a little farther crossed back again. A mile farther, began to

-ascend a long steep hill, narrow on the summit and steep descent. We

-then wound around between high hills till arriving again on a narrow

-rich bottom. At the foot of the hill we crossed last, there is a spring

-of very good cold water, and in fact, there are many good springs all

-along the road. At six o'clock we formed our encampment near a very

-small creek and a good spring, having traveled this afternoon six and

-three-quarters miles and during the day sixteen and a half. There is an

-abundance of grass here and the country appears to grow still richer as

-we proceed west, but very mountainous. There are many antelope on these

-mountains and the country is lovely enough but destitute of timber.

-About a quarter of a mile west from the camp is a cave in the rock

-about thirty feet long, fifteen feet wide and from four to six feet

-high. There are many martins at the entrance and on observing closely,

-can be seen myriads of small bugs. It is supposed from appearances that

-there is some property cached in the cave. Soon after we camped, we had

-a light shower accompanied by thunder. This country evidently lacks

-rain, even the grass appears parched.

-

-Tuesday, July 13

-

-Awhile before noon, Elder Kimball and Howard Egan arrived from the

-company back. A meeting was called but suddenly dispersed by a thunder

-shower. After the rain ceased, Elder Kimball proposed that a company

-start from the camp with Elder Pratt to proceed to the Weber River

-canyon and ascertain if we can pass through safely, if not, to try and

-find a pass over the mountains. He reported that President Young is a

-little better this morning, but last evening was insensible and raving.

-Colonel Rockwood is also very sick and quite deranged. A company of

-twenty-two wagons, mostly ox teams, started on soon after dinner, in

-company with Elder Pratt, and soon after, Elders Kimball and Egan

-returned to the back company. The day has been very hot and sultry, and

-mosquitoes are very troublesome.

-

-Wednesday, July 14

-

-The day has been very hot, with occasionally a light breeze. Several

-of the brethren have been out hunting, and brought in several antelope

-which appear to abound in this region. Brothers Woodruff and Barnabas

-Adams went back to the other wagons this morning. They returned at

-night and reported that President Young is considerably better, but

-Brother Rockwood remains very sick. There are one or two new cases of

-sickness in our camp, mostly with fever which is very severe on the

-first attack, generally rendering its victims delirious for some hours,

-and then leaving them in a languid, weakly condition. It appears that a

-good dose of pills or medicine is good to break the fever. The patient

-then needs some kind of stimulant to brace his nerves and guard him

-against another attack. I am satisfied that diluted spirits is good in

-this disease after breaking up the fever. At night had a light shower.

-The following is a list of the names of those who are gone on to look

-out and make a road, etc., viz.: Orson Pratt, commander of company,

-O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding, Stephen Markham, Nathaniel

-Fairbanks, Joseph Egbert, John S. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, Robert

-Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, John Crow, Walter H. Crow, Walter Crow, George

-W. Therlkill, James Chesney, Jewis B. Myers, John Brown, Shadrack

-Roundy, Hans C. Hanson, Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, David Powell, Oscar

-Crosby, Hark Lay, Joseph Mathews, Gilbert Summe, Green Flake, John

-S. Gleason, Charles Burke, Norman Taylor, A. P. Chesley, Seth

-Taft, Horace Thornton, Stephen Kelsey, James Stewart, Robert Thomas,

-C. D. Barnham, John S. Eldridge, Elijah Newman, Francis Boggs,

-Levi N. Kendall, David Grant. First division: seven wagons, fifteen

-men; second division: sixteen wagons, twenty-seven men besides Crow's

-family of women and children. Total, twenty-three wagons and forty-two

-men.

-

-Thursday, July 15

-

-Morning pleasant but cloudy. At twelve o'clock President Young, Kimball

-and all the rear wagons arrived, eight in number. The President is much

-better. Brother Rockwood is considerably better. Orders were given for

-this company to harness up, and during the time till we started onward

-at half-past one we had a very refreshing shower. After traveling two

-miles we passed another spring of good water at the foot of a high hill

-a little to the right of the road. At half-past three we formed our

-encampment at the foot of some high red bluffs, having traveled four

-and a half miles, and enjoyed two more pleasant showers. Feed here good

-and a beautiful spring of good, clear, cold water a little to the left

-of the road. The evening fine and pleasant.

-

-Friday, July 16

-

-This morning we have had two pleasant showers accompanied by pretty

-loud thunder. At 8:45, we proceeded onward, passing through a narrow

-ravine between very high mountains. After traveling one and a quarter

-miles passed a deep ravine, where most of the teams had to double to

-get up. One-half mile farther, crossed the creek and found the crossing

-place very bad. Harvey Pierce broke his wagon reach and bolster. The

-wagon had to be unloaded, but with little delay was soon repaired,

-during which time a number of the brethren fixed a new place to cross

-the creek. After passing this place, following the course of the

-creek, the mountains seem to increase in height, and come so near

-together in some places as to leave merely room enough for a crooked

-road. At half past twelve we halted to feed, having traveled six and

-three-quarters miles and are yet surrounded by high mountains. As we

-halted, O. P. Rockwell came up from Elder Pratt's company. He

-reports that it is about twenty-five or thirty miles to the canyon.

-They have found the road leading over the mountains to avoid the canyon

-and expect to be on top today at noon. The day is pleasant with a nice

-breeze. Grass plentiful and pretty high, but no timber yet, except

-small cedar on the sides of the mountains. Numerous springs of clear

-water all along the base of the mountains. During the halt two of the

-brethren went to the top of the mountain on the north of the camp. They

-looked like babes in size. At 1:40, we proceeded onward and found the

-pass between the mountains growing narrower, until it seemed strange

-that a road could ever have been made through. We crossed creek a

-number of times, and in several places found the crossing difficult.

-After proceeding a few miles, we saw patches of oak shrubbery though

-small in size. In the same place and for several miles there are many

-patches or groves of the wild currant, hop vines, alder and black

-birch. Willows are abundant and high. The currants are yet green and

-taste most like a gooseberry, thick rind and rather bitter. The hops

-are in blossom and seem likely to yield a good crop. The elder-berries,

-which are not very plentiful, are in bloom. In some places we had to

-pass close to the foot of high, perpendicular red mountains of rock

-supposed to be from six hundred to a thousand feet high. At a quarter

-to seven we formed our encampment, having traveled this afternoon nine

-and a half miles, and during the day sixteen and a quarter. We are yet

-enclosed by high mountains on each side, and this is the first good

-camping place we have seen since noon, not for lack of grass or water,

-but on account of the narrow gap between the mountains. Grass is pretty

-plentiful most of the distance and seems to grow higher the farther we

-go west. At this place the grass is about six feet high, and on the

-creek eight or ten feet high. There is one kind of grass which bears

-a head almost like wheat and grows pretty high, some of it six feet.

-There is a very singular echo in this ravine, the rattling of wagons

-resembles carpenters hammering at boards inside the highest rocks. The

-report of a rifle resembles a sharp crack of thunder and echoes from

-rock to rock for some time. The lowing of cattle and braying of mules

-seem to be answered beyond the mountains. Music, especially brass

-instruments, have a very pleasing effect and resemble a person standing

-inside the rock imitating every note. The echo, the high rocks on the

-north, high mountains on the south with the narrow ravine for a road,

-form a scenery at once romantic and more interesting than I have ever

-witnessed. Soon after we camped, I walked up the highest mountain on

-the south. The ascent is so steep that there is scarce a place to be

-found to place the foot flat and firm, and the visitor is every moment,

-if he makes the least slip or stumbles, in danger of being precipitated

-down to the bottom and once overbalanced, there is no possibility of

-stopping himself till he gets to the bottom, in which case he would

-doubtless be dashed to pieces. After resting about half a dozen times I

-arrived at the top and found the ascent equally steep all the way up.

-In many places I had to go on my hands and feet to keep from falling

-backwards. From this mountain I could see the fork of Weber River about

-a mile west of the camp; looking back I could see the road we had come

-for several miles, but in every other direction nothing but ranges of

-mountains still as much higher than the one I was on as it is above the

-creek. The scenery is truly wild and melancholy. After surveying the

-face of the country a little while, I began to descend and found the

-task much more difficult than ascending, but by using great care and

-taking time, I got down without accident a little before dark. Solomon

-Chamberlain broke his forward axle tree about two miles back. A wagon

-was unloaded and sent back to fetch him up. He is yet very sick.

-

-Saturday, July 17

-

-Arose to behold a fine pleasant morning, my health much better. This

-is my thirty-third birthday. My mind naturally reverts back to my

-family and my heart is filled with blessings on their heads more than

-my tongue is able to express. The richest blessings that ever were

-bestowed upon the head of woman or child could not be more than I

-desire for them, whatever be my lot. President Young is reported as

-having had a very sick night. A forge was set up and some repairs done

-to wagons and Brother Chamberlain's repaired also. The cattle and mules

-seem very uneasy and continue lowing and braying all the morning. I

-suppose it is in consequence of the singular echoes, they no doubt

-thinking they are answered by others over the mountains. At 9:40 the

-camp renewed the journey and one mile farther arrived at the Red fork

-of the Weber River. We also seem to have a wide space to travel through

-and now turn to the right in a western course, the ravine having run

-mostly southwest. The distance we have traveled through this narrow

-pass is twenty-three miles. Yesterday was the first day we have been

-out of sight of snow a whole day since we arrived at Fort John. We

-could not see it for the high mountains although surrounded by it. On

-arriving at this stream we see it again on the mountains to the east.

-This stream is about four rods wide, very clear water and apparently

-about three feet deep on an average. Its banks lined with cottonwood

-and birch and also dense patches of brush wood, willows, rose bushes,

-briers, etc. By stepping to the top of a small mound at the bend of

-the road, the mouth of the canyon can be seen very plainly, as also

-the mountains between which we pass to avoid it. The canyon appears

-to be about eight or ten miles west of us. I should judge not over

-that. President Young being so very sick found he could not endure

-to travel farther. Accordingly Elder Kimball and some others went

-to select a camping ground and soon returning reported a place a

-little farther. The camp moved on and formed encampment on the banks

-of the river having traveled two and a half miles, the day very hot

-and mosquitoes plentiful. Several of the brethren have caught some

-fine trout in this stream which appears to have many in it. In the

-afternoon Elders Kimball, Richards, Smith, Benson and others went onto

-a mountain to clothe and pray for President Young who continues very

-sick. On returning they rolled down many large rocks from the top of

-the mountain to witness the velocity of their descent, etc. Some would

-roll over half a mile and frequently break to pieces. John Nixon found

-and brought to camp a very singular kind of thistle which I have never

-seen before nor recollect of ever reading of the like. He found it on

-the low land near the camp and says there are many more like it. It is

-a great curiosity and worthy of description. The stem is about four

-feet long, about six inches wide and a quarter of an inch thick. It is

-formed of a double leaf or case and when broken is hollow, although

-the stem lies close together, perfectly flat. It is ornamented with

-prickles from bottom to top. These leaves are but sparsely scattered

-all along up the stem. The top is a kind of crown and bush formed by

-the same kind of prickly leaves and is about ten inches long by five

-inches broad, forming a very handsome head or crown. But the great

-curiosity of this thistle is a perfect resemblance of a snake coiled

-around the crown as though in the act of guarding it against foes.

-The head of the snake lies on the top of the crown at one end and is

-ornamented by a small bunch of flowers like common thistle flowers on

-the snake's head. At the extremity of the tail is a bunch of small

-burrs covered with prickles something resembling the rattles on a

-rattlesnake's tail. The body of the snake is formed of the same kind of

-substance as the thistle itself and has a very singular appearance. It

-seems that two of the great enemies of mankind have combined, the most

-bitter and destructive guarding the more innocent. The serpent tempted

-the woman causing her to sin, in consequence of which the earth was

-cursed and decreed to produce thorns and thistles, etc., but this is

-the first time I ever saw the snake guard the thistle. In the evening

-Elders Kimball, G. A. Smith and Howard Egan rode down the river

-to visit the canyon. They returned about ten o'clock and said they had

-been eight miles down the river but at that distance did not arrive at

-the canyon and being late they concluded to return to camp.

-

-Sunday, July 18

-

-This morning the camp was called together and addressed by Elder

-Kimball. He reports President Young as being a very sick man. He

-proposed to the brethren that instead of their scattering off, some

-hunting, some fishing, and some climbing mountains, etc., that they

-should meet together and pray and exhort each other that the Lord may

-turn away sickness from our midst and from our President that we may

-proceed on our journey. It was decided to assemble at ten o'clock

-and at the sound of the bugle the brethren met in a small grove of

-shrubbery which they have made for the purpose opposite the wagons.

-During the meeting, Elder Kimball proposed to the brethren that all

-the camp, except President Young's and eight or ten other wagons with

-brethren enough to take care of him, etc., proceed on tomorrow and go

-through, find a good place, begin to plant potatoes, etc., as we have

-little time to spare. The proposition was acceeded to by unanimous vote

-and after a number had expressed their feelings the meeting adjourned

-till two o'clock at which time they again assembled and listened to

-remarks from a number of the brethren. Elder Kimball again gave much

-good instruction and prophesied of good things concerning the camp. The

-bishops broke bread and the sacrament was administered. Good feelings

-seem to prevail and the brethren desire to do right. A number yet

-continue sick, but we expect all will soon recover. The day is very hot

-with very little air moving. Elder Kimball consented for me to go on

-tomorrow with the company that goes ahead.

-

-Monday, July 19

-

-Morning fine and warm, President Young considerably better. At 7:45 we

-started onward leaving President Young and Kimball's wagons and several

-others. We found the road very rough on account of loose rocks and

-cobble stones. After traveling two and a quarter miles, we forded the

-river and found it about eighteen inches deep but proceeded without

-difficulty. Soon after we were over, Elder Snow came up and said the

-camp were requested to halt awhile till Dr. Richards came. One of

-his oxen is missing and he wished to go on. We concluded to move on

-a little to where the road should turn off between the mountains to

-avoid the canyon. Elder Pratt went three miles out of his road and had

-to return again. Three-quarters of a mile from the ford we found the

-place to make the cutoff and there halted awhile. I put a guide board

-up at this place marked as follows: "Pratt's Pass to avoid canyon. To

-Fort Bridger 74¼ miles." Brother Pack, having charge of the company,

-concluded to move on slowly and be making our way up the mountains. We

-accordingly started and after traveling a mile from the forks began to

-ascend and wind around the mountains. We found the road exceedingly

-rough and crooked and very dangerous on wagons. Three and a half miles

-from the forks of the road the brethren made a bridge over a small

-creek over which we crossed having passed a number of springs near the

-road. Two and a quarter miles farther we arrived on the summit of the

-dividing ridge and put a guide board up, "80 miles to Fort Bridger."

-At this place Elders Kimball, Woodruff, G. A. Smith and H. Egan

-rode up to view the road, etc. The descent is not very steep but

-exceedingly dangerous to wagons being mostly on the side hill over

-large cobble stones, causing the wagons to slide very badly. After

-traveling a little way, G. A. Smith's wagon wheels gave way going

-down a steep pitch. The spokes are loose in the hub, and worked about

-so that when the wagon slides they dish inward, etc. At two o'clock, we

-halted beside a small creek to water teams, having traveled ten and a

-half miles over exceedingly rough road. A wagon was unloaded, and sent

-for G. A. Smith's loading which is reported to be two miles back.

-While they were gone, many turned out their teams to graze. At 3:30 the

-men returned with the wagons, putting the loading into several so as

-to proceed and at 3:35 we started forward, the road turning suddenly

-to the right for about three-quarters of a mile and then a southwest

-course again. Here we ascend a very long steep hill for nearly a mile,

-then descend by a very crooked road. I think a better road might be

-made here and this high hill avoided and save a mile's travel. After

-traveling a little over three miles, we crossed a creek about a rod

-wide and eighteen inches deep, pretty steep going down but good going

-out. We went on a little farther and at half past five camped on a

-small spot surrounded by willow bushes full of mosquitoes, having

-traveled this afternoon three and a quarter miles and during the day

-thirteen and three-quarters. The day has been hot and no wind. Teams

-sweat much and it has been a pretty hard day's travel. There is not

-much grass here, but is said to be more plentiful a little farther.

-Several accidents have happened to wagons today but nothing serious

-except Brother G. A. Smith's. Dr. Richards' wagons arrived in camp

-at the same time the rest did. The sick are getting better. In the

-evening the brethren picked up a lot of dry willows and made a coal

-pit to set G. A. Smith's tire before we can leave tomorrow. The

-evening and night were very cold.

-

-Tuesday, July 20

-

-This morning fine and warm. The coal pit is burned and Burr Frost set

-Elder Smith's wagon tire and did various other repairs to a number of

-other wagons which took till nearly eleven o'clock, about which time

-the camp started onward. One of Brother Crow's men returned from Elder

-Pratt's company and reported that their camp is about nine miles from

-here. He is hunting stray cattle. He says the road is very rough from

-here and about a mile beyond where they are camped the road begins to

-ascend over a high range of mountains. Elder Pratt has been to the top

-but cannot see the Salt Lake from there. Their company is gone on. I

-walked ahead of the camp nearly four miles and picked many gooseberries

-nearly ripe. They are very plentiful on this bottom. The brethren spent

-much time cutting brush wood and improving the road. After traveling

-four miles, halted about half an hour to water teams and eat dinner.

-The road over which we have traveled is through an uneven gap between

-high mountains and is exceedingly rough and crooked. Not a place to

-be met with scarcely where there would be room to camp for the dense

-willow groves all along the bottom. We then proceeded on and traveled

-over the same kind of rough road till a little after 5:00 p.m. then

-camped on a ridge, having traveled today seven and a quarter miles. The

-last three miles has been the worst road of the two, it being through

-willow bushes over twenty feet high, also rose and gooseberry bushes

-and shaking poplar and birch timber. Although there has been a road

-cut through, it is yet scarcely possible to travel without tearing

-the wagon covers. We have crossed this creek which Elder Pratt names

-Canyon Creek eleven times during the day and the road is one of the

-most crooked I ever saw, many sharp turns in it and the willow stubs

-standing making it very severe on wagons. As we proceed up, the gap

-between the mountains seems to grow still narrower until arriving at

-this place where there is room to camp, but little grass for teams.

-There are many springs along the road but the water is not very good.

-In one place about a mile back there is a very bad swamp where the

-brethren spent some time cutting willows and laying them in to improve

-it. We have got along today without much damage which is somewhat

-favorable for the road is awful. At this place the ground around is

-represented as being swampy and dangerous for cattle. It is reported

-that there is no place to camp beyond this till where Elder Pratt's

-company camped and this is so small they have to huddle the wagons

-together. The soil continues sandy, except in the low moist places

-where it looks black and good. There is some pine occasionally in sight

-on the mountains, but timber here is scarce. We have passed through

-some small patches today where a few house logs might be cut, but this

-is truly a wild looking place.

-

-Wednesday, July 21

-

-We started onward at half past six, the morning fine and pleasant.

-We crossed the creek once more and about a half a mile from where we

-camped, the road turns to the right leaving the creek and ascending

-the mountains gradually. Much time was necessarily spent cutting down

-stumps, heaving out rocks and leveling the road. It is an exceedingly

-rough place. There are several springs at the foot of the mountain and

-one a mile from the top which runs above the ground a little distance,

-then sinks under again. The last half mile of the ascent is very steep

-and the nearer the top the steeper it grows. There is considerable

-timber up this gap but mostly destroyed by fire. We saw a prairie

-pheasant while going up and some wild gooseberries. At eleven o'clock,

-the teams began to arrive on the dividing ridge and in less than an

-hour, all were safely up. From this ridge we can see an extensive

-valley to the west but on every other side high mountains, many of

-them white with snow. It seems as though a few hours' travel might

-bring us out from the mountains on good road again. We halted on the

-ridge a little while and then prepared to descend, many locking both

-hind wheels, a precaution not at all unnecessary. We found the road

-down exceedingly steep and rendered dangerous by the many stumps of

-trees left standing in the road. The brethren cut up many of them which

-delayed us much. About a mile down is a bridge formed of small trees

-laid one on another to fill up a deep ravine. It is steep on both sides

-and here Joseph Rooker turned his wagon over, however, without much

-damage. A mile and a half from the top is a spring and small stream of

-very good cold water where we halted to let teams drink. This would

-make a tolerably good camp ground in case of necessity. After this, the

-road is not so steep but is very rough and winds between high hills or

-mountains through willows and brush wood and over soft places, crossing

-the creek a number of times. At four and a half miles from the top of

-the ridge, we arrived at a good spring of cold water, plenty of grass

-and a good place to camp. Our teams have now been in the harness about

-ten hours without eating and the feeling of many was to stay here, but

-some wanted to go on and we continued. Turning suddenly to the right

-a little below this spring we began to ascend another high ridge and

-while ascending some of the teams began to fail. There are a great many

-service berries on this ridge growing on what we supposed to be wild

-apple trees. The berries are good and rich when ripe. The descent from

-this ridge is not nearly so steep as the other one, yet many locked

-both hind wheels. After descending, we found another small creek and

-a very rough road again. At 7:30, we formed our encampment near the

-creek, having traveled fourteen miles in thirteen hours. There is but

-little grass here and a poor chance for cattle. Orson Pratt's company

-are camped a half a mile ahead of us and our camp was formed by Colonel

-Markham. He says they have had many new cases of sickness but mostly

-getting better. The cannon is left back on the other side of the

-mountains. About a mile back from this place there is a small grove of

-sugar maple and considerable other timber along the creek. There are

-also beds of nice green rushes in several places.

-

-Thursday, July 22

-

-This morning is cloudy and some like for rain. We started on at 8:30

-and soon came up with Elder Pratt's company. There were several bad

-places in the road where the brethren spent considerable time fixing

-them. As we near the mouth of the canyon, there is a small grove of

-elder bushes in bloom and considerable oak shrubbery. We named this a

-canyon because of the very high mountains on each side leaving but a

-few rods of a bottom for the creek to pass through and hardly room for

-a road. It is evident that the emigrants who passed this way last year

-must have spent a great deal of time cutting a road through the thickly

-set timber and heavy brush wood. It is reported that they spent sixteen

-days in making a road through from Weber River which is thirty-five

-miles but as the men did not work a quarter of their time much less

-would have sufficed. However, it has taken us over three days after the

-road is made although a great many hours have been spent in improving

-it. In this thick brush wood and around here there are many very large

-rattlesnakes lurking, making it necessary to use caution while passing

-through. After traveling one and three-quarters miles, we found the

-road crossing the creek again to the north side and then ascending up a

-very steep, high hill. It is so very steep as to be almost impossible

-for heavy wagons to ascend and so narrow that the least accident might

-precipitate a wagon down a bank three or four hundred feet, in which

-case it would certainly be dashed to pieces. Colonel Markham and

-another man went over the hill and returned up the canyon to see if

-a road cannot be cut through and avoid this hill. While passing up,

-a bear started near them but soon was out of sight amongst the very

-high grass. Brother Markham says a good road can soon be made down the

-canyon by digging a little and cutting through the bushes some ten or

-fifteen rods. A number of men went to work immediately to make the road

-which will be much better than to attempt crossing the hill and will be

-sooner done.

-

-Agreeable to President Young's instructions, Elder Pratt accompanied by

-George A. Smith, John Brown, Joseph Mathews, John Pack, O.P. Rockwell

-and J. C. Little started on this morning on horses to seek out

-a suitable place to plant some potatoes, turnips, etc., so as to

-preserve the seed at least. While the brethren were cutting the road,

-I followed the old one to the top of the hill and on arriving there

-was much cheered by a handsome view of the Great Salt Lake lying, as I

-should judge, from twenty-five to thirty miles to the west of us; and

-at eleven o'clock I sat down to contemplate and view the surrounding

-scenery. There is an extensive, beautiful, level looking valley from

-here to the lake which I should judge from the numerous deep green

-patches must be fertile and rich. The valley extends to the south

-probably fifty miles where it is again surrounded by high mountains.

-To the southwest across the valley at about twenty to twenty-five

-miles distance is a high mountain, extending from the south end of the

-valley to about opposite this place where it ceases abruptly leaving a

-pleasant view of the dark waters of the lake. Standing on the lake and

-about due west there are two mountains and far in the distance another

-one which I suppose is on the other side the lake, probably from sixty

-to eighty miles distance. To the northwest is another mountain at the

-base of which is a lone ridge of what I should consider to be rock salt

-from its white and shining appearance. The lake does not show at this

-distance a very extensive surface, but its dark blue shade resembling

-the calm sea looks very handsome. The intervening valley appears to

-be well supplied with streams, creeks and lakes, some of the latter

-are evidently salt. There is but little timber in sight anywhere, and

-that is mostly on the banks of creeks and streams of water which is

-about the only objection which could be raised in my estimation to this

-being one of the most beautiful valleys and pleasant places for a home

-for the Saints which could be found. Timber is evidently lacking but

-we have not expected to find a timbered country. There may be timber

-on the mountains which the long distance would render impossible to

-be seen with the naked eye, but the mountains through which we have

-passed have very little on them. In some places may be seen a grove

-of small fir or cedar or pine and in the valleys some cottonwood and

-other small timber. There is doubtless timber in all passes and ravines

-where streams descend from the mountains. There is no prospect for

-building log houses without spending a vast amount of time and labor,

-but we can make Spanish brick and dry them in the sun; or we can build

-lodges as the Pawnee Indians do in their villages. For my own part I

-am happily disappointed in the appearance of the valley of the Salt

-Lake, but if the land be as rich as it has the appearance of being, I

-have no fears but the Saints can live here and do well while we will

-do right. When I commune with my own heart and ask myself whether I

-would choose to dwell here in this wild looking country amongst the

-Saints surrounded by friends, though poor, enjoying the privileges

-and blessings of the everlasting priesthood, with God for our King

-and Father; or dwell amongst the gentiles with all their wealth and

-good things of the earth, to be eternally mobbed, harassed, hunted,

-our best men murdered and every good man's life continually in danger,

-the soft whisper echoes loud and reverberates back in tones of stern

-determination; give me the quiet wilderness and my family to associate

-with, surrounded by the Saints and adieu to the gentile world till God

-says return and avenge you of your enemies. If I had my family with me,

-how happy could I be, for I dread nothing so much as the journey back

-again and when I think of the many dangers from accident which families

-traveling this road are continually liable to and especially this last

-mountain road from Weber River, it makes me almost shudder to think of

-it and I could almost envy those who have got safely through, having

-their families with them, yet they will doubtless have a hard time of

-it the coming winter. Brother Crow's family especially have very little

-bread stuff with them, they say enough to last them two months and they

-are dependent on the success of their hunter for support through the

-winter. This valley appears to be fortified by mountains, except on the

-banks of the lake, on many of which there is still snow lying in large

-quantities. It is certain that good limestone abounds in these ridges

-and it is supposed coal can be found with little labor. From this hill

-I passed down the creek which we named the Last Creek about a mile and

-there saw a bed of bull rushes of the largest kind I ever saw, some

-of them being fifteen feet high and an inch and a half in diameter

-at the bottom. The grass on this creek grows from six to twelve feet

-high and appears very rank. There are some ducks around and sand hill

-cranes. Many signs of deer, antelope, and bears, but not many have been

-seen here. There have been fresh buffalo signs seen a few days' travel

-back, but those animals evidently do not stay in this region unless

-some come to winter. The ground seems literally alive with the very

-large black crickets crawling around up grass and bushes. They look

-loathsome but are said to be excellent for fattening hogs which would

-feed on them voraciously. The bears evidently live mostly on them at

-this season of the year. After spending about four hours' labor the

-brethren succeeded in cutting a pretty good road along the creek and

-the wagons proceeded on, taking near a southwest course. We found the

-last descent even but very rapid all the way. At half past five, we

-formed our encampment on a creek supposed to be Brown's Creek, having

-traveled seven and a quarter miles today. We are now five and a quarter

-miles from the mouth of this canyon making the whole distance of rough

-mountain road from the Weber River to the mouth of the canyon on this

-side a little less than thirty-five miles and decidedly the worst

-piece of road on the whole journey. At this place, the land is black

-and looks rich, sandy enough to make it good to work. The grass grows

-high and thick on the ground and is well mixed with nice green rushes.

-Feed here for our teams is very plentiful and good and the water is

-also good. There are many rattlesnakes of a large size in this valley

-and it is supposed they have dens in the mountains. The land looks dry

-and lacks rain, but the numerous creeks and springs must necessarily

-tend to moisten it much. The grass looks rich and good. A while after

-we camped, Elder Pratt and company returned and reported that they had

-been about fifteen miles north from here and this region is as suitable

-a place to put in our seeds as they have seen. Approaching nearer the

-lake, the land is mostly sunken and many small lakes in it. A few

-miles north of this, is a good spot to break up and plant potatoes,

-sow our seeds, etc. There is a little timber on the creek. From twelve

-to fifteen miles north at the foot of the mountain they saw many hot

-sulphur springs issuing from the rocks, as many as fifty in number.

-One of them, the largest, falls out of the rocks and then forms a pool

-apparently ten feet deep and a rock is in the center. The water of this

-is so hot a person cannot bear his hand in it but a very few seconds.

-It is strong of salt and sulphur and the bottom appears green as though

-it was covered with verdigris. A council was held at the Doctor's wagon

-and it was decided to move early tomorrow to the place designated;

-also, to send two men back to the President and company to report our

-progress, etc., then to commence forthwith and plow and plant about ten

-acres with potatoes this week if possible and thus continue till the

-seed is secured. John Pack and Joseph Mathews were selected to return

-to President Young's company. The evening was fine and pleasant and the

-night feels much warmer than in the ravines of the mountains.

-

-Friday, July 23

-

-This morning Elders Pack and Mathews started to meet the President and

-at the same time the camp moved on to the final location. We traveled

-two miles and then formed our encampment on the banks of the creek in

-an oblong circle. The grass here appears even richer and thicker on the

-ground than where we left this morning. The soil looks indeed rich,

-black and a little sandy. The grass is about four feet high and very

-thick on the ground and well mixed with rushes. If we stay here three

-weeks and our teams have any rest they will be in good order to return.

-As soon as the camp was formed a meeting was called and the brethren

-addressed by Elder Richards, mostly on the necessity and propriety of

-working faithfully and diligently to get potatoes, turnips, etc., in

-the ground. Elder Pratt reported their mission yesterday and after

-some remarks the meeting was dismissed. At the opening, the brethren

-united in prayer and asked the Lord to send rain on the land, etc. The

-brethren immediately rigged three plows and went to plowing a little

-northeast of the camp; another party went with spades, etc., to make a

-dam on one of the creeks so as to throw the water at pleasure on the

-field, designing to irrigate the land in case rain should not come

-sufficiently. This land is beautifully situated for irrigation, many

-nice streams descending from the mountains which can be turned in every

-direction so as to water any portion of the lands at pleasure. During

-the afternoon, heavy clouds began to collect in the southwest and at

-five o'clock we had a light shower with thunder. We had rains for about

-two hours. The brethren have plowed up considerable land and broken

-several of their plows, but there have been three plows going nearly

-all day. At night, the camp was called together and addressed by Elder

-Richards on a subject which seemed little welcome to many from the way

-it was handled. It was a sermon of ---- from end to end. Some

-felt a little insulted but it all passed off well and jokingly.

-

-Saturday, July 24

-

-The plowing is renewed and many are gone to planting potatoes. There

-is one drag going. Others are still at work on the dams. John Pack and

-Joseph Mathews returned at dark last night and reported the President

-and company a few miles up Last Creek. They have gone back this morning

-to fix two bridges at the mouth of the canyon. The day is fine and hot

-with a nice breeze. At a quarter to twelve, President Young and Kimball

-arrived and the wagons also began to arrive at the same time. The

-President seems much better and the sick generally are getting better.

-Most of the brethren express themselves well; pleased with the place,

-but some complain because there is no timber. There appears to be a

-unanimous agreement in regard to the richness of the soil and there are

-good prospects of sustaining and fattening stock with little trouble.

-The only objection is a lack of timber and rain. The latter God will

-send in its season if the Saints are faithful and I think yesterday was

-a proof that He listens to and answers the prayers of the Saints. We

-can easily irrigate the land at all events which will be an unfailing

-and certain source of water, for the springs are numerous and the water

-appears good. About 5:00 p.m. we were favored with another nice shower

-accompanied by thunder and some wind. It continued raining till nearly

-dark; the balance of the evening fine. Elder Kimball says that it is

-contemplated to send out an exploring party to start on Monday and

-proceed north to the Bear River and Cache valleys. They design taking

-several wagons with them and Presidents Young and Kimball accompany the

-expedition. Another company is to start at the same time and go west to

-the lake, then south to the Utah lake and return down this valley.

-

-Sunday, July 25

-

-Morning fine and pleasant. At ten o'clock a meeting was held in the

-camp and the brethren addressed successively by Elders G. A.

-Smith, H. C. Kimball and E. T. Benson, these mostly

-expressing their feeling of gratification for the prospects of this

-country, each being highly satisfied with the soil, etc. Elder Kimball

-referred especially to the manifold blessings we have been favored

-with during the journey. Not a man, woman, or child has died on the

-journey, not even a horse, mule, ox, cow or chicken has died during

-the whole journey. Many exhortations were given to the brethren to

-be faithful, obey the council of those in authority and we shall be

-blessed and prosperous. At 1:00 p.m. by request of Elder Kimball, the

-following persons viz.: Howard Egan, Hans C. Hanson, Jackson Redding,

-Carlos Murray, Thomas Cloward, George Billings, Philo Johnson, Charles

-Harper, Edson Whipple, Wm. A. King, Hosea Cusing, Robert Byard, Orson

-K. Whitney and Horace Whitney, assembled themselves in a willow grove

-adjacent to the camp where Elder Kimball addressed them in substance as

-follows [the whole reported by Horace Whitney]:

-

-"Most of you here present have become adopted into my family, except

-a very few calling them by name and Horace, who has become connected

-with my family by marriage, but I do not care for that, you are all the

-same to me, and your interest is my interest for what's mine is yours

-and what's yours is your own. If I have the privilege of building a

-house, I want you to help me and I will help you. Horace will want to

-build a house for some of his father's family if they should come up

-and there is plenty of timber in the hills. When my family comes up,

-we may conclude to settle somewhere else. If so, there will be plenty

-to buy us out if we shall have made any improvements. I want you all

-to be prudent and take care of your horses, cattle and everything

-entrusted to your care. It would be a good plan and probably will be

-done for those who stay here, to go back on the Sweet Water and kill

-buffalo, etc., for winter consumption. We shall go tomorrow if Brigham

-is well enough, in search of a better location--if indeed, such

-can be found--if not, we shall remain here. There should be an

-enclosure made for the purpose of keeping the horses and cattle in

-nights for there are plenty of Indians in the vicinity. I should

-advise you to keep the Sabbath day holy whether others do or not. I

-want you to put all the seed into the ground that you think will come

-to maturity. I am satisfied that buckwheat will do as well here as

-any other seed we can grow. I want also some peach stones and apple

-seeds to be planted forthwith. Brother Byard and Hans I would like

-to have immediately engage in making garments of buck skins, Brother

-Cloward in making shoes and Brother Johnson in making hats as soon as

-practicable. If you wish to go hunting, fishing, or to see the country,

-select a week day and not the Lord's day for that purpose. Do not let

-us get giddy and light minded as the Nephites did of old, but strive to

-work righteousness in the beginning, inasmuch as we have reached the

-promised land. If it is advisable to work in a family capacity, we will

-do so; and if in a church capacity, we should be equally willing to do

-that. I am going out on a scout with the brethren and I shall probably

-want one or two of you to go with me and also one or two wagons. I

-am not going to take anything back with me to Winter Quarters except

-what is actually necessary--even some of my clothes I shall leave

-behind. I shall leave Bishop Whipple with you. He is quite a steady

-and economical man, and as such I recommend him to you. I want every

-man to be as industrious as possible while I am gone and get into the

-ground all the turnips, cabbage and other seeds you can. In case a

-storm of snow should come on, it would be advisable to drive all the

-cattle among the willows where they can remain until the snow goes off.

-I want you all to work together until such time as every man can have

-his inheritance set off to him. I feel towards you as a father towards

-his children and I want you to banish all peevishness from your midst

-and accommodate yourselves as much as possible to each other's wishes.

-I have it to say that my boys have been faithful to their various

-duties on this journey and other people have noticed it and expressed

-the opinion that they never saw such an attentive set of men in their

-lives, and I consider that their conduct is worthy of imitation. I want

-you to be sober and prayerful and remember me and my family in your

-prayers." A number of other good ideas were advanced by Brother Heber

-and then we closed the meeting by prayer.

-

-At 2:00 p.m. the brethren again assembled within the camp and were

-successively addressed by Elders Woodruff, Orson Pratt and W. Richards

-sustaining the ideas advanced by the other brethren this morning. Some

-remarks followed from Lorenzo Young, John Pack and others and the

-meeting was dismissed. It is contemplated to send some wagons back to

-lighten the loads and assist the next company over these rough roads.

-It is now certain that there is considerable timber in the ravines and

-valleys between the mountains, several large bodies having been seen

-by the brethren since our arrival. There is a mountain lying northeast

-from here on which is considerably large timber. It is supposed to be

-about ten miles distance. The northern expedition is given up for the

-present on account of President Young's health. A company intend to

-go tomorrow to the lake and survey that region. If they go, they will

-probably be gone a day or two.

-

-Monday, July 26

-

-Morning cloudy and pleasant. The brethren commenced plowing early,

-others are gone to planting, etc., and the brethren appear to feel

-well. Some of the sick have been to bathe in one of the hot springs

-and pronounce the effects wonderfully beneficial. Others are going

-this morning to try the same experiment. Another company are gone to

-make a road to the timber through a ravine a little north of this.

-About ten o'clock, President Young sent me a horse with instructions

-to join him and some others going on a short exploring expedition.

-I immediately started and found the company consisted of President

-Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff, G. A. Smith, Benson, Richards

-and Carrington. We took a course northward passing by the land where

-the brethren are plowing and planting. The land indeed looks rich and

-light. About three-quarters of a mile north of the camp, we arrived on

-a beautiful table land, level and nicely sloping to the west. Here we

-halted to view it and the more we viewed, the better we were satisfied

-that it is as handsome a place for a city as can be imagined. At the

-east part there is a considerable creek of clear cold water descending

-from the mountains and just above this place it branches into two

-forks, one running northwest, the other southwest, and the two nicely

-surrounding this place, and so well arranged that should a city be

-built here the water can be turned into every street at pleasure. We

-passed on and began to ascend the mountains, the President signifying

-a wish to ascend a high peak to the north of us. After some hard toil

-and time we succeeded in gaining the summit, leaving our horses about

-two-thirds the way up. President Young felt pretty well fatigued when

-he got up. Some of the brethren feel like naming this Ensign Peak. From

-this place, we had a good view of the Salt Lake and could see that the

-waters extend for a great many miles to the north of us. There appears

-to be land, although white with salt, all the way to the mountain

-on the northwest which we had previously supposed was surrounded by

-water. We can see a pretty large stream winding from the south to the

-north through the valley but keeping not many miles distant from these

-mountains towards the lake. After satisfying ourselves we began to

-descend, President Young and Lorenzo, who joined us a while before we

-went up, going down on the east side where they were joined by Elders

-Woodruff, Benson, and Richards with the horses. Elders Kimball, Smith,

-Carrington and myself descended on the northwest corner and found the

-descent very lengthy and difficult. These hills are mostly rocky of a

-kind of soft stone in some places, in others a harder kind of flint

-stone. On arriving on the level again, we wound our way southward to

-meet the other brethren and after passing a little way saw one of the

-sulphur springs where a pretty large stream of sulphur water boils out

-of the rock at the foot of the mountain and thence branches out into

-several smaller streams for some distance till these enter a small

-lake. This water is about as warm as dish water and very salty. There

-is much filthy kind of substance collected on it and the smell arising

-from it is truly nauseating and sickly, though generally supposed to

-be in no way unhealthy. Elder Kimball left us here on seeing Elder

-Woodruff's carriage and the other brethren returning back towards the

-camp. In the meantime, Elders Smith, Carrington and myself went lower

-down towards the lake in search of some fresh water to quench our

-thirst. We found a nice clear stream of cold water but a little way

-from the sulphur spring and having drunk of it, we concluded to go

-on and see the river which we had noticed from the mountain. We took

-nearly a west course and soon struck the old road made by emigrants

-last year. We found the land exceedingly rich all along, good grass and

-abundance of rushes. We found many wet places but no signs of swamps,

-nor danger of miring. After traveling about two miles, we arrived at

-the river having followed the road to the ford. This river is about

-five rods wide on an average, three and a half feet deep at the ford

-but in other places much deeper. The current is slow and the water of

-a dark lead color. The banks are about five feet high and the soil to

-the water level of a rich, black alluvial. There is no timber on the

-banks here and not many willow bushes. We went over the river and found

-the soil equally good on the other side. While here we observed Elder

-Woodruff's carriage and the brethren again proceeding northward. We

-started back to meet them, it being the intention to go to the large,

-hot sulphur spring. We could but remark all along, the richness of

-the soil and the abundance of high, good looking grass. On arriving

-at the foot of the mountain beside another sulphur spring, we saw the

-carriage come on to the first spring but apparently judging it unsafe

-to cross, they wheeled around and returned back to camp. Elders Smith,

-Carrington and myself then concluded to go on and view the big spring

-which we found to be about two miles farther. Before arriving at it,

-there is a large shoal salt lake and on the banks are numerous sulphur

-springs varying in the appearance of the surface and losing themselves

-in the lake. There were many plovers on and around this lake. We

-arrived at the big spring about four o'clock and making our horses

-fast, we went down to where it boils out of the rock. This spring is

-also situated at the foot of the mountains and at the base of a large

-rock, perpendicular on the west side and gradually losing itself on

-the east in the mountain. The spring, as I have said, is at the base

-of this rock. There is a circular hole about four feet wide and a yard

-high from the top to the surface of the water from whence the water

-boils out in a considerable stream. The water itself in the spring

-seems to be about two feet deep. There is a rock at the mouth of the

-spring where a person can stand and see inside. Standing on this rock

-with your face near the mouth of the spring a strong warm sulphurous

-air is felt to come in gusts out of the rock and it is so hot that it

-requires only a few minutes to start the perspiration. On putting my

-hand in the spring, I was startled with the heat and found I could not

-bear to hold my hand in five seconds. It is as hot as the hottest dish

-water ever used for dishes. Immediately on emerging from the rock, the

-water forms a lake about three rods in diameter and evidently pretty

-deep. The water is exceedingly clear and nice to look at but very salty

-indeed. We could see the water boil up in many parts of the lake. The

-water escapes at the north side of the lake at the base of the rock and

-there forms a stream about four feet wide and eighteen inches deep. We

-concluded we would go down the stream six or eight rods to wash our

-feet, naturally expecting the water to be cooler, but on taking off

-our boots and socks we found it impossible to hold our feet in it a

-moment and could barely wash by dashing the water on with our hands

-and suddenly dipping them in and out. It is supposed this would boil

-an egg in about ten minutes. At five o'clock we returned back to camp

-and supposed that the spring is about four miles distance. We arrived

-in camp at six o'clock. The brethren have planted about three acres of

-potatoes, some peas, beans, and are now planting four or five acres

-of corn. Elder Kimball stated that on returning with the carriage to

-the creek near the camp to get some water, he discovered that he had

-lost his spy glass. He retraced his steps on foot to the top of the

-peak and back without finding it, and on arriving at the bottom he saw

-Elders Richards and Benson bathing in one of the warm sulphur springs.

-Although wet with perspiration he took off his clothes and plunged in

-and found the effects very pleasant and beneficial. After bathing they

-started back for camp and but a few rods distance found the glass near

-the road. Some of the brethren have commenced making a garden about two

-miles to the southeast and indeed their operations and industry are

-truly pleasing and noble. The more I view the country, the better I am

-satisfied that the Saints can live here and raise abundant crops. Elder

-Kimball has kindly offered me a horse to ride and view the country

-as much and when I have a mind to while we stay here. This morning

-Joseph Mathews and John Brown started west to go to the mountain. They

-returned this evening and report that they have been at the foot of

-the mountain and judge it to be about sixteen miles distance. They say

-the wild sage is very plentiful on the other side the valley, showing

-that the land is not so rich there as here. They found a horse, near

-the mountain and have brought it to camp, supposed to have strayed from

-emigrants who have previously passed this way. Towards sundown heavy

-clouds were noticed in the south and southwest. We expected a shower,

-but it passed off to the east.

-

-Tuesday, July 27

-

-Morning fine and warm. The atmosphere appears very different here to

-what it did amongst the mountains. The evenings and nights are very

-warm and pleasant and the air appears pure. Two of the Utah Indians

-came to camp early this morning to trade. Two ponies were bought of

-them for a rifle and musket. These two are but of moderate size,

-pleasing countenance and dressed in skins. At half past eight Amasa

-Lyman, Rodney Badger, Roswell Stevens, and Brother Brannan arrived in

-camp. They report that the Pueblo company will be in tomorrow or the

-day after. The brethren are still busy plowing and planting. Burr Frost

-has his forge up and quite a number of plows have been rigged up by the

-assistance of the carpenters. Elder Lyman, I understand, reports that

-they heard of a large company on their way and he thinks we may expect

-them in 15 or 20 days. Elders Lyman and Brannan joined the exploring

-party with President Young and Kimball and the company started off soon

-after their arrival. A company of brethren have been to the mountains

-to get more lumber to build a skiff. They returned this evening

-bringing a very handsome pine log about twenty inches through and

-which, probably, when whole, would measure sixty feet long. The day has

-been very fine and warm. The horses and cattle seem in good spirits and

-are getting fat. They are full of life and ambition. Presidents Young

-and Kimball have had their wagons moved a little distance from the camp

-to the other side the creek. During the afternoon, two more Indians

-came in to trade. Some of the brethren are making unwise trades, giving

-twenty charges of powder and balls for a buck skin, while the usual

-price is three charges. This is wrong.

-

-Wednesday, July 28

-

-Morning fine and warm. Several of the Indians have remained in camp

-over night. They seem very peaceable and gentle and anxious to trade.

-The brethren are making a saw pit to saw lumber for a skiff. Joseph

-Hancock and Lewis Barney have been off hunting in the mountains two

-days. They state there is abundance of good timber for building in the

-mountains but difficult to get at it. The timber is mostly balsam fir

-and poplar and many sticks will make two good logs. At half past three

-President Young and company returned. They have been at the Salt Lake

-and report it to be about twenty-five miles distance. No water after

-they leave the river except salt water. The lake is very clear and the

-water heavy, so much so, that a man cannot possibly sink. Even not

-where more than four feet deep and they tried to fall down on their

-knees but could not touch the bottom. They can sit or lie in the water

-perfectly easily without touching the bottom. One of the brethren lay

-down on the water and another got on him but could not sink him. They

-suppose the water will yield 35% pure salt. They gathered some off the

-rocks which is as pure, white and fine as the best that can be bought

-in market.

-

-There is a cave in the mountain west of the camp which is sixty feet

-from the entrance to the far end. The Indians appear to have frequently

-visited it and there are yet the remains of their fires.

-

-There appears to be no fresh water beyond the river and the brethren

-are more and more satisfied that we are already on the right spot.

-At eight o'clock the brethren were called together and addressed by

-President Young on various subjects, pointing out items of law which

-would be put in force here, his feelings towards the gentiles, etc. He

-said they intended to divide the city into blocks of ten acres each

-with eight lots in a block of one and a quarter acres each. The streets

-to be wide. No house will be permitted to be built on the corners of

-the streets, neither petty shops. Each house will have to be built so

-many feet back from the street and all the houses parallel with each

-other. The fronts are to be beautified with fruit trees, etc. No filth

-will be allowed to stand in the city but the water will be conducted

-through in such a manner as to carry all the filth off to the River

-Jordan. No man will be suffered to cut up his lot and sell a part to

-speculate out of his brethren. Each man must keep his lot whole, for

-the Lord has given it to us without price. The temple lot will be

-forty acres and adorned with trees, ponds, etc. The whole subject was

-interesting to the brethren and the items will probably be given more

-fully hereafter. The Twelve were appointed a committee to lay off the

-city, etc.

-

-Thursday, July 29

-

-We have had a very strong cold, east wind all the night and the morning

-is tolerably cool. At eleven o'clock I was moved up to the other camp

-about three-quarters of a mile. At ten o'clock we had a light shower.

-It rained pretty heavily all around but mostly passed by here. At three

-o'clock, the Pueblo brethren came in sight, the soldiers appearing in

-military order, many of them mounted. They have twenty-nine wagons in

-the company and one carriage. Presidents Young, Kimball and the Twelve

-went to meet the brethren and met them in the canyon. They report that

-they had very heavy rain there, the water rising in the creek three

-feet in a very short time, caused by the rush from the mountains. The

-brethren arrived at the lower camp at half past three and marched in

-headed by the fifes and side drum. They have camped a little west

-of the other camp. The brethren are represented as feeling well and

-cheerful. At five o'clock the Twelve returned here and an hour later

-went over north to the mountains, I suppose to hold a council.

-

-Friday, July 30

-

-Day warm. Twelve held a council with the officer of the battalion,

-then rode up to the hot spring. Evening a general meeting of the camp

-and addressed by President Young. He told his feelings concerning the

-soldiers, they have saved the people by going when required, etc. He

-rejoiced that they are here. He expressed his feelings warmly towards

-the brethren and also told his feelings towards the gentiles. The

-meeting was opened by hosannas three times and closed by requesting

-the battalion to build a bower tomorrow on the temple lot where we can

-assemble for meetings, etc.

-

-Saturday, July 31

-

-This morning the brethren commenced making the bower on the temple lot

-a little southwest from our camp. They will make it about forty feet

-long and twenty-eight feet wide. Walked with President Young, Kimball,

-Richards and others to the Mississippi camp. Brother Thomas Richardson

-is very sick and several others of the soldiers. Soloman Tindal is yet

-alive but looks feeble. Elder Kimball conversed sometime with Captain

-James Brown. There are from twenty to thirty of the Utah Indians here

-and some squaws trading with the brethren. They are generally of low

-stature, pleasing countenance but poorly clad. While we were there, a

-dispute arose between two of the young men and they went to fighting

-very fiercely. One broke his gun stock on the other's head and I

-expected to see a pretty serious affray, many of the others gathering

-around. Soon an old man came up, father to one of the young men engaged

-in the quarrel and he used his heavy whip very freely about both their

-heads and faces. The antagonist of the son struck the old man and he

-immediately gathered a long pole and broke it over the young man's

-head. He succeeded in quelling the broil and gave them a long lecture.

-They then mostly left and resumed their trading a little distance from

-the camp. In the afternoon, we had a pretty smart thunder shower and

-considerable wind. In the evening I walked down to the Pueblo camp and

-there learned the following particulars:

-

-These Indians who are now here are of the Shoshones, about fifteen or

-twenty in number, and several women among them. There were four or five

-of the Utahs here this morning when the Shoshones came up. One of the

-Utahs had stolen a horse from one of the Shoshones and the latter party

-saw him with the horse here. He had traded the horse for a rifle but

-was unwilling either to give up the horse or rifle hence the quarrel

-spoken of above. When the old man separated them, the thief went down

-and hid himself in the camp below. Soon after, he saw another horse

-walking by, which he knew to belong to the Shoshones. He sprang on his

-own horse and drove the other one before him towards the mountains on

-the southeast as hard as he could ride. The Shoshones being informed

-of it, four of them started in pursuit and as he got in between the

-mountains they closed in on him, one of the pursuers shooting him dead

-while another one shot his horse. They returned and made this report

-to the others of the tribe at the camp at the same time exhibiting

-fresh blood on one of the rifles. They appear to be much excited and

-continually on the watch. When the men returned, they sat down and made

-a meal of some of these large crickets. They appear to be crisped over

-the fire which is all the cooking required. Many of the brethren have

-traded muskets and rifles for horses and ordinary muskets will buy a

-pretty good horse. They appear to be displeased because we have traded

-with the Utahs and say they own this land, that that the Utahs have

-come over the line, etc. They signified by signs that they wanted to

-sell us the land for powder and lead. The Shoshones are poorer clad

-than the Utahs. They are about the same in stature and there are many

-pleasing countenances among them. Colonel Markham reports that there

-are three lots of land already broke. One lot of thirty-five acres of

-which two-thirds is already planted with buckwheat, corn, oats, etc.

-One lot of eight acres which is all planted with corn, potatoes, beans,

-etc. And a garden of ten acres, four acres of which is sown with garden

-seed. He says there are about three acres of corn already up about two

-inches above the ground and some beans and potatoes up too. This is

-the result of eight days' labor, besides making a road to the timber,

-hauling and sawing timber for a boat, making and repairing plows, etc.

-There have been thirteen plows and three harrows worked during the week.

-

-

-

-August 1847

-

-Sunday, August 1

-

-We have had another cool windy night. At ten o'clock in the morning

-the brethren assembled for meeting under the bower on the temple lot,

-all the members of the quorum of the Twelve being present except

-President Young who is quite sick again. After the meeting had been

-opened by singing and prayer by Elder G. A. Smith, Elder Kimball

-arose and made some remarks to the following effect, as reported by

-Brother Bullock: "I would enquire whether there is a guard out around

-our cattle; if not, let one be placed immediately. The Indians left

-here very suddenly this morning and we don't know their object. If we

-don't take good care of what we have, we will not have any more. It is

-all in the world we shall ever have, for 'to him that receiveth I will

-give more.' We are the sons of God and He will do with us as we would

-do to our children, and inasmuch as I am faithful in taking care of my

-neighbors' goods, I shall be entitled to the same from them, for we

-are commanded to do unto others as we want others to do to us. Every

-penurious man who takes advantage of others will come down to poverty.

-If we have to follow the steps of our Savior we have to follow and

-experience the same things; you will have to feel for men so as to know

-how to sympathize with them and then you can feel for them. I feel for

-this people and grow more feeling for them every day. Our Father in

-Heaven is more tender to us than any mother to her little child. If I

-am faithful to serve others, others will be willing to serve me."

-

-Orson Pratt requested the prayers of the Saints in his behalf: "It

-is with peculiar feelings that I arise before so many of the Saints

-in this uncultivated region inhabited by savages. My mind is full

-of reflection on the scenes through which we have passed and being

-brought through the deserts of sage to this distant region. God's ways

-are not as our ways. It is not wisdom that the Saints should always

-foresee the difficulties they have to encounter for then they would

-not be trials. We expected some revelations to take place and behold

-they are revealed in the Book of Mormon and Doctrine and Covenants,

-for we are to congregate among the remnants of Joseph. We did think

-our wives and children would be built up among the strongholds of the

-gentiles, we thought we should be as Missourians to them. Jehovah had

-different purposes. He designed that this people should be brought

-out almost as an entire people. The Book of Mormon never would have

-been fulfilled if the Saints had not left the gentiles as a people,

-for when the gentiles rejected the Gospel it was to be taken among the

-Lamanites. So long as the Gospel, the Priesthood and the main body of

-the people remained with them, the fullness of the Gospel was not taken

-away from the gentiles. This movement is one of the greatest that has

-taken place among this people. I feel thankful as one of the Twelve for

-the privilege of coming out as one of the pioneers to this glorious

-valley where we can build up a city to the Lord. For many years I have

-not read that good old book, but I remember the predictions in it and

-some that are now very nearly fulfilled by us. Isaiah says, (Chapter

-62) speaking of the City of Zion, it shall be 'Sought out, a city not

-forsaken,' etc. Many in this congregation know what is meant by the

-garments of salvation and the robe of righteousness. Righteousness and

-praise shall spring forth before all the nations of the earth and they

-will not hold their peace. There are many of you that feel you can cry

-day and night to the people in the cause of righteousness until it

-shall triumph. 'For as a young man marrieth a virgin,' etc.--this

-belongs and refers to us. 'I will no longer give thy corn to be meat

-for thine enemy.' This has not been fulfilled heretofore but will be.

-The corn that we toil to raise from the earth, it shall not be given

-to our enemies, they that gather it shall eat it, and they shall drink

-in the courts of His holiness. This wine is also to be drunk in the

-courts of the Lord's house. We have gathered out the stones out of the

-road and thousands will yet fulfil this prophecy. It has reference

-to the latter times that were to dawn upon the world in the last

-dispensation. 'Thou shalt be called, Sought out, A city not forsaken.'

-If ever there was a place sought out it is this, we have enquired

-diligently and have found it. This cannot refer to Jerusalem, but to

-this very place, point and spot that the pioneers have found where a

-city shall be built unto the Lord, where righteousness will reign and

-iniquity not be allowed. Isaiah and Joel both spake very plainly on

-this subject. 'It shall come to pass in the last days that the house of

-the Lord shall be established,' etc. In what part of the earth could

-it be established more than in this place where this congregation is

-gathered. In the midst of the spires of the mountains we have found

-a place large enough to gather a few thousand of the Saints. You may

-travel Europe, Asia, Africa and America but you cannot find a place

-much higher where any people can raise crops and sustain themselves.

-The house of the Lord will be established on the tops of the mountains

-when we shall have once reared here. The experience of the Saints

-proves that there was no house of the Lord, and we can say: travel over

-this earth but you cannot find the house of the Lord. The Lord must

-give the pattern of the building and order it, and give directions to

-His servants. The Lord wants His house built precisely to the pattern

-that He gives and He is bound to speak to and bless and make them His

-own children in that house and I verily believe I shall see it and see

-thousands come flocking to the house to learn the way of salvation.

-And I want to see the time that I shall see thousands raising their

-voices on this consecrated land. There are many testimonies in the

-prophets all bearing upon this subject. Joseph, in the Book of Doctrine

-and Covenants speaks of this very subject and it appears there will be

-some sinners in Zion who will be afraid and a devouring fire will rest

-upon every dwelling place in Zion. 'He that walketh righteously' etc.,

-'He shall dwell on high, bread shall be given him, his water shall

-be sure.' Isaiah was on the eastern continent when he spoke this and

-was speaking of a very distant place. It will be pretty difficult to

-get a ship of war up to this place. When we get used to this healthy

-climate, the people will not say, I am sick, but will be able to smite

-the gentiles. They will grow up strong and will not be in jeopardy

-from sickness. The wilderness shall become as a fruitful field and a

-fruitful field as a forest. We know the time will come that the great

-Jehovah will cause springs of water to gush out of the desert lands

-and we shall see the lands survive that the gentiles have defiled.

-Isaiah speaks of the heritage of Jacob being in a high place. This

-is about four thousand feet above the level of the sea and the high

-mountains will still catch the hail and we shall be in a low place. We

-will not feel discouraged but will feel full of vigor and circumscribe

-all things to the very heavens, for this is what we desire above all

-things. Let us endeavor to covenant in our hearts, that we will serve

-the Lord; that we will keep His commandments and obey His counsel. I

-wish that all of us should be faithful and as President Young said the

-other evening, every man is expected to do his duty. The Lord will be

-with us still; He will shield, guard and defend us by day and be our

-refuge by night, and our salvation. I feel to say in the name of the

-Lord Jesus Christ, you shall be blest if you keep the commandments of

-God. Amen."

-

-Elder Kimball hopes the brethren will be attentive to what they hear

-for if you bring an evil upon this people you will bring destruction

-upon yourself. If you do things according to counsel and they are

-wrong, the consequences will fall on the heads of those who counseled

-you, so don't be troubled. I do not want to be wrapt in the skins of

-some men who have taken a course that has brought destruction upon

-themselves and others, and they will have to answer for it. I am a man

-that would not speak to a man's daughter to marry her until I have

-first spoken to her father and mother also, and then it is done by

-common consent. But I preach the truth, every word of it. President

-Young instructed the Battalion last evening and counseled them for

-their comfort and the counsel is for the brethren to keep their guns

-and their powder and their balls and lead and not let the Indians have

-it for they will shoot down our cattle. They stole guns yesterday and

-had them under their blankets and if you don't attend to this you are

-heating a kettle of boiling water to scald your own feet. If you listen

-to counsel you will let them alone and let them eat the crickets,

-there's a plenty of them. I understand they offered to sell the land

-and we were to buy it of them, the Utahs would want to pay for it too.

-The land belongs to our Father in Heaven and we calculate to plow and

-plant it and no man will have power to sell his inheritance for he

-cannot remove it; it belongs to the Lord. I am glad I have come to a

-place where I feel free. I am satisfied and we are in a goodly land. My

-family is back, my teams are helping on several families and leaving

-ours. If my family were here I would not go over that road again. I

-believe in Brother Joseph's religion which he said was a key that would

-save every man or woman, and that it is for every man to mind his own

-business and let other people's business alone. We will all have farms

-and cultivate them and plant vineyards, and if we are faithful, five

-years will not pass away before we are better off than we ever were

-in Nauvoo. If we had brought our families along everybody else would

-have come; and we must lose another year. We could not bring all the

-soldiers' families for the same reason that we did not bring our own

-families. I thank the Lord that there are so many of the soldiers here.

-If they had tarried in Winter Quarters there would have been many more

-deaths among them. We brought many of these pioneers to save their

-lives, many of them were very sick and were carried out of their beds

-and put into the wagons. They have mostly recovered their health and

-we have been prosperous and have been permitted to arrive here alive.

-There has not one died on the journey, nor an ox nor horse nor anything

-except one of Brother Crow's oxen which was poisoned. We lost several

-horses by accident and we shall be prosperous on our journey back again

-if we are faithful, those of us who go, and we shall see and enjoy

-the society of our families again. We will one day have a house built

-here and have the forts and go into the house and administer for our

-dead. Elder Richards then read an order from Lieut. Cooke of the Mormon

-Battalion on the Pacific, after which Elder Bullock read a letter from

-Jefferson Hunt to James Brown, dated July 6, 1847, after which and a

-few other remarks, the meeting was dismissed.

-

-At 2:25 the congregation assembled and opened by singing and prayer by

-Elder Woodruff. Bread and water were then administered by the bishops

-after which Elder Richards, after a few preliminary remarks, read the

-"Word and will of the Lord," as given in Winter Quarters. Elder Kimball

-made some remarks and the brethren manifested that they received and

-would obey the revelations by uplifted hand. He was followed by remarks

-by Elder Amasa Lyman, mostly sustaining the positions taken by the

-previous speakers. Elder Kimball again rose to lay before the brethren

-some items of business, whereupon it was decided that the three

-companies form into one camp and labor together that the officers be a

-committee to form the corral, and that the corral be formed tomorrow.

-That horses and mules be tied near the camp at nights; that we build

-houses instead of living in wagons this winter; that we go to work

-immediately putting up houses; that we work unitedly; that the houses

-form a stockade or fort to keep out the Indians; that our women and

-children be not abused and that we let the Indians alone.

-

-Colonel Rockwood remarked that a log house 16 by 15 would cost forty

-dollars and one of adobes half as much. Captain Brown was in favor of

-setting men to work building both log and adobe houses to hasten the

-work. Captain Lewis said that inasmuch as timber is scarce and we have

-spades and shovels and tools enough, as many as can be used, he is in

-favor of building adobe houses and saving the timber. Lieutenant Willis

-said you can put up an adobe house before a man could get the logs for

-a log house. Adobe houses are healthy and are the best for equinoxial

-gales. Elder Brannan has a man in California who will take three men,

-make adobes for a thirty foot house, build the house and put a family

-in it in a week. His printing office was put up in fourteen days and a

-paper printed. Elder Richards said we want brick made and lime burned.

-If wood is put into houses it will be a waste of it. We want all the

-timber to make floors and roofs. We want the walls up and we are men

-enough to put them up in a few days and have the women protected.

-It was voted to put up a stockade of adobe houses. Samuel Gould and

-James Drum reported themselves as lime burners. Sylvester H. Earl,

-Joel J. Terrill, Ralph Douglas and Joseph Hancock reported themselves

-as brick makers. Elder Kimball then remarked that those who intend

-to send ox teams back to Winter Quarters must be ready a week from

-tomorrow morning. If the cattle's feet are too tender, have them shod,

-or have new shoes in the wagons. Those oxen to rest and be released

-from plowing, etc. Do not get the Indians around here. I want you to

-have nothing to do with them. After a few remarks on general items, the

-meeting dismissed.

-

-Monday, August 2

-

-We have had another cool night, but morning fine. The other companies

-commenced moving their wagons up and we also moved a little farther

-east. During the day the whole camp was formed in an oblong circle.

-About noon Ezra T. Benson and several others started back to meet the

-next company. They carried a letter, the following being a copy of the

-same:

-

-"Pioneer camp. Valley of the Great Salt Lake, August 2, 1847. To

-General Chas. C. Rich and the Presidents and Officers of the emigrating

-company. Beloved Brethren: We have delegated our beloved Brother Ezra

-T. Benson and escort to communicate to you by express the cheering

-intelligence that we have arrived in the most beautiful valley of the

-Great Salt Lake, that every soul who left Winter Quarters with us

-is alive and almost everyone enjoying good health. That portion of

-the battalion that was at Pueblo is here with us together with the

-Mississippi company that accompanied them and they are generally well.

-We number about 450 souls and we know of no one but who is pleased with

-our situation. We have commenced the survey of a city this morning. We

-feel that the time is fast approaching when those teams that are going

-to Winter Quarters this fall should be on the way. Every individual

-here would be glad to tarry if his friends were here, but as many of

-the battalion, as well as the pioneers, have not their families here

-and do not expect that they are in your camp, we wish to learn by

-express from you, the situation of your camp as speedily as possible

-that we may be prepared to counsel and act in the whole matter. We

-want you to send us the names of every individual in your camp, or in

-other words, a copy of your camp roll, including the names, number of

-wagons, horses, mules, oxen, cows, etc., and the health of your camp,

-your location, prospects, etc. If your teams are worn out, if your camp

-is sick and not able to take care of themselves, if you are short of

-teamsters or any other circumstance impeding your progress. We want to

-know it immediately for we have help for you, and if your teams are in

-good plight and will be able to return to Winter Quarters this season

-or any portion of them, we want to know it. We also want the mail,

-which will include all letters and papers, and packages belonging to

-our camp, general and particular. Should circumstances permit, we would

-gladly meet you some distance from this, but our time is very much

-occupied. Notwithstanding, we think you will see us before you see our

-valley. Let all the brethren and sisters cheer up their hearts and know

-assuredly that God has heard and answered their prayers and ours and

-led us to a goodly land, and our souls are satisfied therewith. Brother

-Benson can give you many particulars that will be gratifying and

-cheering to you which we have not time to write, and we feel to bless

-all the Saints. In behalf of the council. Willard Richards, Clerk.

-Brigham Young, President.

-

-This morning, Elders Pratt and Sherwood commenced surveying the city

-to lay it off in lots but finally concluded to wait until the chain

-could be tested by a standard pole which will have to be gotten from

-the mountains. Some of the brethren are preparing to make moulds

-for adobes. In the evening, Elder Kimball's teams returned from the

-mountains with some good house logs and poles for measuring, etc.

-The day has been very warm but the nights begin to be very cool. The

-northeast winds seem to prevail here at this season and coming from the

-mountains of snow are cold when the sun is down. After dark President

-Young sent for me to come to his wagon and told his calculations about

-our starting back. He wants me to start with the ox teams next Monday

-so as to have a better privilege of taking the distances, etc. He

-calculates the horse teams to start two weeks later, and if the first

-company arrives at Grand Island before the other comes up to wait for

-them there, kill and dry buffalo, etc. He wants the roadometer fixed

-this week and Elder Kimball has selected William King to do the work.

-

-Tuesday, August 3

-

-Morning fine, but cool. Elder Carrington starts for the mountains to

-look for limestone. During the day I went and bathed at Bullock's

-bathing place in one of the warm sulphur springs. I found the effects

-very refreshing and beneficial. Spent most of the day making a table of

-distances, etc. The day very hot.

-

-Wednesday, August 4

-

-This morning William A. King has commenced making a new roadometer. The

-day very hot and close.

-

-Thursday, August 5

-

-Again at the roadometer, day very warm. J. C. Little and others

-have returned and report that they have been at the Utah Lake. As they

-went up they saw bodies of two dead Indians lying on the ground proving

-that there was one of each tribe killed the other day. They consider

-it to be about forty miles to the Utah Lake and on the east side is a

-handsome valley about six or eight miles wide. They are now convinced

-that the stream which runs a few miles below here is the Utah outlet,

-they having followed it to its junction with the lake.

-

-Friday, August 6

-

-The day very warm.

-

-Saturday, August 7

-

-Today William A. King has finished the roadometer which will now tell

-the distance for one thousand miles without keeping any account. About

-noon a very large whirlwind struck the south side of the camp forming

-a cloud of dust about twenty feet in diameter and making a loud roar.

-It carried a chicken up some distance, tore up the bowers, and shook

-the wagons violently in its course. It passed off to the northeast and

-seemed to break at the mountains. This morning fifteen of the brethren

-commenced building a dam a little above the camp so as to bring the

-water around and inside the camp. They finished early in the afternoon

-and we have now a pleasant little stream of cold water running on

-each side the wagons all around the camp. Where the water runs off or

-overflows the gutters, it soon becomes miry and cattle will sink a half

-a yard in mud. This is owing to the lightness of the soil, it being

-very light and rich. In the evening, many of the brethren went and were

-baptized in the dam by Elder Kimball for the remission of sins, Elders

-Pratt, Woodruff, and Smith attending to confirmation. I went and was

-baptized amongst the rest. It has been recommended for all the camp to

-be baptized and this evening they have commenced it.

-

-Sunday, August 8

-

-Morning cloudy with strong northeast wind. The brethren have resumed

-baptizing and a number have obeyed the ordinance both male and female.

-At ten o'clock, a meeting was held in the bowery and instructions given

-to the brethren. At two o'clock, sacrament was administered and 110 of

-the brethren selected to make adobes. Wrote a letter for Heber to Elder

-Martin and others.

-

-Monday, August 9

-

-At eleven o'clock, Brannan, Captain James Brown and several others

-started for San Francisco. Elder J. C. Little accompanies them to

-Fort Hall. I spent three hours taking observations with the barometer

-with Elder Pratt to ascertain the height of the land on the creek above

-the city. Ensign Peak, etc. The twelve had decided on a name for this

-place and a caption for all letters and documents issued from this

-place, which is as follows: Salt Lake City, Great Basin, North America.

-

-Tuesday, August 10

-

-This morning, President Young and Kimball have gone to the adobe yard

-to commence building some houses in that region. They have already got

-many good logs on the ground. Colonel Markham reports that in addition

-to the plowing done week before last, they have plowed about thirty

-acres which is mostly planted, making a total of about eighty acres.

-The plowing ceased last week and the brethren are now making adobes,

-hauling logs, etc. Elder Sherwood continues surveying the city. Tanner

-and Frost are setting wagon tires and have set fifty-two today. The

-brethren who went to the lake on Monday to boil down salt have returned

-this evening and report that they have found a bed of beautiful salt

-ready to load into wagons. It lies between two sand bars and is about

-six inches thick. They suppose they can easily load ten wagons without

-boiling. I have received from Elder Kimball a pair of buckskin pants,

-as a present I suppose, but as I have on similar occasions been

-branded with the idea of receiving a great many kindnesses without

-consideration, I will for this once state a little particular on the

-other side the question. I acknowledge that I have had the privilege of

-riding in a wagon and sleeping in it, of having my victuals cooked and

-some meat and milk, and occasionally a little tea or coffee furnished.

-My flour I furnished myself. I have had no team to take care of. Howard

-Egan has done most of my washing until a month ago in consideration of

-the privilege of copying from my journal, using my desk, ink, etc. The

-balance of my washing I have hired. Now what have I done for Brother

-Kimball? Am I justly indebted on this journey? Answer: I have written

-in his journal 124 pages of close matter on an average of 600 words

-to a page, which if paid at the price of recording deeds in Illinois

-would amount to over $110.00. I have collected the matter myself,

-besides writing letters, etc. This has been for his special benefit.

-I have kept an account of the distance we have traveled for over 800

-miles of the journey, attended to the measurement of the road, kept

-the distances from creek to creek and from one encampment to another;

-put up a guide board every ten miles from Fort John to this place with

-the assistance of Philo Johnson. I have mapped some for Dr. Richards

-and keeping my own journal forms the whole benefit to be derived by

-my family by this mission. I have yet considerable to write in Elder

-Kimball's journal before I return. I am expected to keep a table of

-distances of the whole route returning from here to Winter Quarters and

-make a map when I get through, and this for public benefit. Now how

-much am I considered to be in debt, and how often will it be said that

-I was furnished by others with victuals, clothing, etc., that I might

-enjoy this journey as a mission of pleasure. I have spent most of this

-day calculating the height of this spot above the level of the sea for

-Elder Pratt.

-

-Wednesday, August 11

-

-Early this morning, a large company of the Utah Indians came to

-visit the camp and it was with difficulty they could be kept outside

-the wagons. There are few of them who have any clothing on except

-the breech clout and are mostly of low stature. They have scarcely

-anything to trade and not many women and children with them. They are

-camped about three miles north of west and supposed to be going north

-hunting. One of them was detected stealing some clothing which lay

-on the bushes to dry, but was made to leave it. When they found they

-were not permitted inside the circle, they soon moved off to their

-camp. The brethren have commenced laying the adobe wall today which

-will be twenty-seven inches thick and nine feet high. The adobes are

-18 inches long, 9 inches broad and 4½ inches thick. The brethren in

-camp have finished the skiff and launched her in the creek to soak.

-About five o'clock, a child of Therlkill's was found in the creek

-south of the camp drowned. Various efforts were made to restore it but

-unsuccessfully. The child was about three years old and its parents

-mourn the accident bitterly. The day has been very hot, but as usual,

-at sundown we have a strong, cool wind from the northeast.

-

-Thursday, August 12

-

-Spent the forenoon with Elder Pratt in taking observations to ascertain

-the height of the temple block above the Utah outlet which he found to

-be sixty-five feet. The altitude one mile up the creek above the temple

-block is 214 feet and the altitude of the temple block above the level

-of the sea is 4,300 feet. The latitude 40° 45' 50". The blacksmiths are

-very busy shoeing oxen and there is prospect that the ox teams will

-start back on Monday or Tuesday. The soldiers are getting dissatisfied

-at being kept here so long from their families and yesterday several of

-them left the camp secretly to go to Winter Quarters and this morning

-others are gone, but it is probable that President Young knows nothing

-of it yet although about a dozen are already gone and others are

-preparing to follow them. On Tuesday President Young laid a foundation

-for four houses; Elder Kimball four, Colonel Markham one, Dr. Richards

-one, and Lorenzo Young two, and today Dr. Richards has laid the

-foundation of another, George A. Smith two and Wilford Woodruff two,

-making a total of seventeen houses mostly fourteen feet wide and from

-twelve to seventeen long. Elder Kimball has his house four logs high.

-

-Friday, August 13

-

-Spent the day mostly writing. The brethren have got 130 bushels of salt

-with twenty-four hours labor.

-

-Saturday, August 14

-

-Started at 8:40 in company with a number of others for the Salt Lake.

-We arrived at three o'clock and estimated the distance twenty-two

-miles. We all bathed in it and found the reports of those who had

-previously bathed in no ways exaggerated. We returned back to the river

-where we arrived at eleven o'clock at the beginning of a light thunder

-shower. There is no pure fresh water between the river and the lake.

-

-Sunday, August 15

-

-President Young preached on the death of little children, etc. Evening

-the company composing those who are returning with the ox teams met

-and voted that Shadrach Roundy and Tunis Rappleyee be captains. They

-received instructions to start tomorrow and travel leisurely to Grand

-Island and there wait for the last company of horse teams. J. C.

-Little and company returned yesterday from Utah Lake, and this morning

-the exploring company returned.

-

-Monday, August 16

-

-Spent most of the day fixing the roadometer, also finished marking the

-distances, camping places,, etc., on Dr. Richards' map from Devil's

-gate to Little Sandy. Evening took the wagon in company with Jackson

-Redding and Howard Egan to the warm spring to try the roadometer. We

-found the distance to be one and a half miles. Most of the company of

-ox teams have started today for Winter Quarters. They will go to the

-canyon and wait there till morning. After dark, Elder Kimball called a

-number of us together in the tent and each one present selected a lot

-for himself and family. I had previously selected lots 1, 7 and 8 on

-block 95, but President Young broke into our arrangements and wished 7

-and 8 reserved, consequently I made choice of lots 1, 2 and 3 on block

-95.

-

-Tuesday, August 17

-

-Started out at 8:10 and found the distance to the mouth of the canyon

-five miles, the difference arising from making a road across instead

-of following the first one. One and three quarters of a mile farther

-arrived at where the company had camped for the night and found them

-all ready to start, only waiting for President Young to arrive and give

-some instructions, but he sent word he should not come and we started

-forward. Elders Kimball and Richards soon overtook the company, gave

-some instructions, then returned and the company moved on. On arriving

-at Birch Spring, we encamped for the night, having traveled thirteen

-and a half miles. There is considerable danger of cattle miring near

-the spring and several have already had to be pulled out. This company

-consists of seventy-one men with thirty-three wagons. After camping,

-the brethren were called together by Captain Roundy for the purpose

-of organizing. He briefly stated the manner of the organization of

-the camp when we left Winter Quarters and it was unanimously voted to

-organize after the same pattern which was done as follows:

-

-1st Division

-

-  1st Ten

-

-  Joseph Skeen, Captain

-  Wm. Burt

-  Artemas Johnson

-  James Dunn

-  James Cazier

-  Joseph Shipley

-  Geo. Cummings

-  Samuel Badham

-  Thos. Richardson

-  Roswell Stevens

-

-  2nd Ten

-

-  Zebedee Coltrin, Captain

-  Wm. Bird

-  Chester Loveland

-  Josiah Curtis

-  Lorenzo Babcock

-  John S. Eldridge

-  Samuel H. Marble

-  Horace Thornton

-  Geo. Scholes

-

-  3rd Ten

-

-  Francis Boggs, Captain

-  Geo. Wardle

-  Sylvester H. Earl

-  Seeley Owens

-  Almon M. Williams

-  Clark Stillman

-

-Tunis Rappleyee, Captain of 1st Division. James Cazier Captain of Guard

-in 1st Division.

-

-2nd Division

-

-  1st Ten

-

-  Jackson Redding, Captain

-  Robert Biard

-  Wm. Carpenter

-  Benj. W. Rolfe

-  Henry W. Sanderson

-  Thos. Cloward

-  Bailey Jacobs

-  Lisbon Lamb

-  John Pack

-  Wm. Clayton

-

-  2nd Ten

-

-  John H. Tippets, Captain

-  Lyman Stevens

-  Francis T. Whitney

-  Lyman Curtis

-  James Stewart

-  John S. Gleason

-  Chas. A. Burke

-  Myron Tanner

-  Wm. McLellan

-  Rufus Allen

-  Norman Taylor

-

-  3rd Ten

-

-  Allen Cumpton, Captain

-  Franklin Allen

-  John Bybee

-  David Garner

-  J. Averett

-  Harmon D. Persons

-  John G. Smith

-  Solomon Tindal

-  Philip Garner

-  Chas. Hopkins

-  Barnabas Lake

-

-  4th Ten

-

-  Andrew J. Shoop, Captain

-  Albert Clark

-  Francillo Durfee

-  James Hendrickson

-  Erastus Bingham

-  John Calvert

-  Loren Kenney

-  Daniel Miller

-  Benj. Roberts

-  Luther W. Glazier

-  Jarvis Johnson

-  Thos. Bingham

-

-Shadrack Roundy, Captain of 2nd Division. John Gleason, Captain of

-Guard.

-

-The soldiers were numbered with the 2nd Division, 3rd and 4th tens.

-

-Those who have horses to ride were then numbered and their duty pointed

-out, which is to lead the way and fix the road where it needs it; look

-out camping places; drive the loose cattle and hunt for the camp. Their

-names are as follows: John Pack, Captain, Samuel Badham, Francillo

-Durfee, Benj. Roberts, Thomas Bingham, James Hendrickson, John

-Eldridge, R. I. Redding, Seeley Owens, Barnabas Lake, Wm. Bird,

-Daniel Miller, James Cazier.

-

-Wednesday, August 18

-

-We had a little rain this morning and the air very cool. We started at

-8:00 a.m. and found the road rough indeed. When ascending the mountain

-from Brown's Creek, most of the teams had to double, it generally

-requiring six yoke of oxen to bring up an empty wagon. The descent is

-also very rough and especially where the road crosses the dry creek

-which is a great many times. Canyon Creek appeared rougher than when we

-first went up it and it took till near night to get to the end of the

-creek, having traveled only fifteen and three quarters miles during the

-day.

-

-Thursday, August 19

-

-We got started again about 8:00 a.m., all except Chas. A. Burke. One of

-his oxen was missing. Before noon several of the loose cattle gave out

-through being over driven. We arrived and camped on Red Mountain Creek

-at six o'clock, having traveled sixteen and a quarter miles. The day

-has been very hot but nights are very cold.

-

-Friday, August 20

-

-Morning very cold. Started out at seven and traveled till 12:30, the

-day being cool, then rested and baited an hour. At 1:30 proceeded again

-and arrived at Cache or Reddings Cave at 5:00 p.m., having traveled

-twenty and a half miles, but it was nearly seven o'clock before the

-company arrived.

-

-Saturday, August 21

-

-Started at 7:30 a.m. and traveled till 12:00 then baited an hour. We

-found Bear River not over fifteen inches deep. We camped on Sulphur

-Creek at five o'clock having traveled sixteen and a half miles and

-after camping I went with the brethren to fill their tar buckets at

-the oil spring. We followed a wagon trail made by a part of Hasting's

-company last year about a mile and found the spring situated in a

-ravine a little to the left of the road just at the edge of a high

-bench of land. The ground is black over with the oil for several rods

-but it is baked hard by exposure to the sun. It is difficult to get

-the clear oil, most of it being filled with dust and gravel. It smells

-much like British oil and is said to do well for greasing wagons. John

-Gleason has found a coal bed in the edge of the mountain across the

-creek. The coal looks good and burns freely.

-

-Sunday, August 22

-

-Many of the cattle were missing this morning but after much search were

-found about four miles southwest from camp. We started at nine o'clock

-and traveled till one, then halted an hour at the copperas spring. Most

-of the wagons halted at the spring four miles back. The water of this

-spring is not bad, cattle drink it freely. At two o'clock we began to

-ascend the ridge and at five formed our camp near the Muddy fork having

-traveled seventeen and three quarters miles, the day cool and cloudy.

-

-Monday, August 23

-

-We started early this morning and arrived at Fort Bridger at one

-o'clock. We found the grass pretty much eaten off and only stayed an

-hour and a half while some of the brethren traded some, then went

-on eight miles farther and camped on a stream two rods wide, having

-traveled twenty-one and a half miles, the day very cool.

-

-Tuesday, August 24

-

-This morning many of the cattle had strayed several miles from camp

-which prevented our starting till eight o'clock. We traveled eight and

-a half miles, then halted an hour on Black's Fork. We proceeded again

-and had a pretty heavy thunder shower and arrived at Ham's Fork at

-5:20, then camped for the night, having traveled twenty-three miles.

-Most of the wagons did not arrive till nearly night, but we had no

-place to camp short of this and here we have good range for cattle.

-

-Wednesday, August 25

-

-We traveled today twenty-three miles and camped on Green River. We

-found several places where the road is shortened some, but it is yet

-about sixteen miles from water to water.

-

-Thursday, August 26

-

-Started at eight o'clock and went on to the Big Sandy and before the

-majority of the company arrived, E. T. Benson and escort came up

-with letters from the companies. They say there are nine companies

-between here and the Platte with 566 wagons and about 5,000 head of

-stock. They report the companies well and getting along tolerably fast,

-some they expect we shall meet within three days. After eating they

-proceeded on. After sundown a large party of mounted Indians came up,

-and camped on the opposite side the river. They have been on the Sweet

-Water hunting and are said to be of the Shoshone tribe.

-

-Friday, August 27

-

-Many of the brethren traded sugar, powder, lead, etc., to the Indians

-for robes and skins and meat. We started soon after seven and traveled

-to the crossing of the Big Sandy. Then after halting an hour, continued

-to the Little Sandy, making twenty-five and a quarter miles today, but

-it was nine o'clock before some of the wagons arrived. The feed is

-mostly eaten up on the creeks near the road and there is none except on

-the banks of streams. Bailey Jacobs killed a large antelope which is a

-matter of rejoicing as we are nearly out of bread stuff and had little

-meat for several days. We started back from the valley with 8 lbs. of

-flour, 9 lbs. of meal and a few beans each, and we have to depend on

-getting meat on the road for the rest. I was told there were 25 lbs. of

-flour put up for me, but I find it is not so.

-

-Saturday, August 28

-

-Started at eight o'clock and traveled till half past three before

-halting when we arrived at the crossing of the Pacific creek and halted

-to camp for the night having traveled twenty-three miles. There is no

-grass from Little Sandy to this place except a very little on Dry Sandy

-but the water there has some taste of alkali and teams do not like it.

-Here there is considerable grass along the creek and very good water

-but no wood except wild sage. We had a heavy thunder shower about four

-o'clock and considerable hail. It was dark before the ox teams arrived.

-Some of the men had killed a buffalo a few miles back, but it is very

-poor.

-

-Sunday, August 29

-

-It was decided to remain here today to rest the teams, but our ten

-obtained leave to go on to Sweet Water, expecting to meet the company,

-and after reading the letter of instructions from the council to

-this camp, my wagon proceeded on slowly. At the Springs, we saw

-an aged Indian squaw near the road dwelling in a shelter composed

-merely of wild sage and apparently dependent on passing emigrants

-for subsistence. She is doubtless left to perish on account of age

-and infirmity, but it is likely she will live some time on what she

-receives from those who pass by. When we arrived near the summit of the

-dividing ridge or south pass, two Indians rode towards us and motioned

-for us to stop. Not seeing the other wagons coming after, we stopped to

-wait for the wagons and the Indians soon arrived. They made signs that

-a large party of them were over the mountain north and they wanted to

-"swap." While they were conversing a number more rode over the ridge

-and soon after a still larger number. About this time the wagons came

-in sight and when the brethren saw so many Indians they were alarmed.

-John Pack rode back to the main camp to get some of the brethren to

-come up, but J. R. said he would not budge a foot. The brethren

-behind were much alarmed, some expecting to be scalped and one W. Carr

-ran and hid himself in the sage bushes. No one returned with John Pack

-but Norman Taylor and the wagons proceeded towards us. In the meantime,

-after learning the object for which the Indians sought us, that none of

-them were armed except two, and by a certificate that the first visitor

-was a Shoshone chief, Brother Lamb and myself signified that we would

-trade with them and soon some of them returned with antelope, buck and

-elk skins and robes to trade. I traded some balls and a little powder

-for one robe, one elk skin, two buckskins and nine antelope skins and

-a pair of moccasins. Lamb bought five antelope skins. While we were

-trading, the other wagons arrived and also commenced trading. The

-Indians, about sixty in number, about twenty of them boys, all mounted,

-seemed highly pleased to trade with us which we did mostly through the

-chief. By request of the chief, I gave him a certificate stating that

-he appeared friendly and wanted to trade with the whites, etc. The

-chief gave us a very strong invitation to go to their camp to trade and

-made signs that they would feed us well and we should sleep with them.

-I answered him by signs that we should camp when we arrived where the

-road crossed the Sweet Water but they were very anxious to have us then

-turn off the road and camp. After we started, the chief came up and

-wanted to swap a good mule for my spy glass but I refused. I had let

-him look through it and he seemed very wishful to try it. When they saw

-we were determined to go on, they left us and returned to their camp

-while we pursued our journey to the first crossing of Sweet Water where

-we arrived and camped at six o'clock, having traveled fourteen miles.

-

-Monday, August 30

-

-This morning the cattle belonging to the camp behind came to us early,

-having strayed away. John Pack and Bailey Jacobs went to drive them

-back and to trade some with the Indians. We calculated to go on about

-eleven miles but before we started, Father Eldridge came up with his

-wagon and said he expected Spencer's 1st 50 company up soon. We then

-concluded to stay here until they arrived and about three o'clock,

-their wagons began to cross the creek. I was glad to find Aaron and

-Loren Farr, and William Walker in this company with their families all

-well and in good spirits. From Sister Olivia, I received some articles

-sent by my family which were very acceptable indeed and made me feel

-grateful. This company all appear well and cheerful and are not much

-troubled on account of lack of teams. I spent the evening with Loren

-and their families. The balance of our camp arrived before dark.

-

-Tuesday, August 31

-

-Our camp except this ten has started on, but Brother Spencer has

-concluded to halt here today and I spent the day copying tables of

-distances for Loren and also gave him a plot of the city.

-

-

-

-September 1847

-

-Wednesday, September 1

-

-We bid farewell to Brother Spencer's company and proceeded on. After

-traveling about a mile, we met P. P. Pratt going to see Brother

-Spencer and to get some cattle. He says some of the back companies

-have lost many head and can scarcely move. A few miles farther we met

-the 2nd 50 of Spencer's company. We traveled till nearly dark and

-camped with the returning pioneers at the cold spring, having traveled

-twenty-two and a quarter miles. The day fine and pleasant. We find the

-grass pretty much eaten off all the way. John G. Smith was appointed

-captain of the 2nd division in place of Shadrach Roundy who returns.

-

-Thursday, September 2

-

-Started about eight o'clock and after traveling two miles passed

-Russell's company of 50 and about five miles farther we passed Elder

-Rich's 50 and G. B. Wallace's 50. They all agree to the health and

-prosperity of their companies but have lost many cattle and have had

-hard work to get along. We passed Captains Foutz and Hone on this long

-drive with their companies all well, but complaining much for lack of

-teams. I conversed some with Edward Hunter and Elder Taylor. Brother

-Hunter will give cash for some cattle if he can buy them. We arrived on

-Sweet Water at six o'clock but the ox teams did not get in till eight

-o'clock, having traveled twenty-four and a half miles. The evening was

-very cold, windy and like for rain. Brother Roundy returned back to the

-valley this morning, having met his family.

-

-Friday, September 3

-

-We started on this morning following the new road at the north side

-of the Sweet Water, the road sandy in places but much better than the

-old road. After traveling about two miles, we saw a lone buffalo about

-two miles to the south. John Pack and Lisbon Lamb went to try to kill

-him and finally succeeded, on which our ten halted and sent back a

-wagon for the meat which detained us about three hours, after which we

-proceeded again. A little before the road fords the river the second

-time, there is an alkali lake a little north from the road. We joined

-the company and also met J. B. Noble's company where the road

-joins the old one again. Brother Noble's company are all well and not

-so bad off for teams as some of the other companies. We proceeded on a

-few miles farther and met J. M. Grant with Willard Snow's 50 which

-is the last company on the road. Brother Grant had a child die last

-night and his wife is yet very sick and not much expected to recover.

-This company have lost many cattle and are so bad off for teams as not

-to be able to travel more than ten miles a day which would make it some

-day in October before they get through. We went on nearly two miles

-farther, then camped for the night near Bitter Cottonwood creek, having

-traveled fifteen and three quarters miles. Most of the company camped

-back with Brother Snow's company.

-

-Saturday, September 4

-

-We started late this morning and traveled over a very sandy road till

-five o'clock, then camped on Ravine Creek, having traveled sixteen

-miles.

-

-Sunday, September 5

-

-There being alkali springs near, we concluded to go to Independence

-Rock at which place we arrived about three o'clock having traveled

-twelve and a half miles. Soon after we camped, Lamb and Jacob Cloward

-went to chase some buffalo and succeeded in killing one. I walked over

-the rock and had some solemn meditations and felt to humble myself and

-call upon the Lord for myself and family, for this company, the twelve

-and all the companies on the road. Experience has taught me many maxims

-of late and I intend to profit by them. Be not hasty to promise, lest

-thy promise be considered worthless. Make not many promises without

-reflection, lest thou fail to fulfill them and it dampen the confidence

-of thy friend. If thou promise many things and regard not to fulfill

-them and it damp the confidence of thy friend, then be assured that thy

-friends will despise thy promises and have no dependence in them. Seek

-not to speculate out of a good brother.

-

-Monday, September 6

-

-This morning the cattle were found down the Sweet Water about six miles

-from camp which made it late before we started. While passing the

-alkali lakes, a number of the brethren filled the bags with saleratus.

-We found the road very sandy to Greasewood Creek and after that it was

-somewhat better. About three o'clock the wind began to blow very strong

-and cold and we had heavy rain for about two hours.

-

-We proceeded on and arrived at the Willow Spring a little before dark

-in the midst of a heavy shower of rain. Thomas Cloward left one of the

-old oxen sent back by Wallace on the road. It died before morning.

-All except our ten and William's stayed back at Greasewood Creek. We

-tried in vain to make a fire but finally went to bed wet and cold,

-having eaten nothing since morning. Some of the teamsters have only a

-light summer coat with them and they suffer considerably. We traveled

-twenty-one and a half miles today.

-

-Tuesday, September 7

-

-This morning our cattle were all missing and it still rains and snows

-very heavily. Pack and T. Cloward started early on foot to hunt the

-cattle but after following them over seven miles in the storm and

-seeing that they had kept on the road towards the Platte river, they

-returned to camp. It rained and snowed heavily till eleven o'clock at

-which time the balance of the camp arrived. John Pack asked the company

-to let us have some of their loose cattle to bring on our wagons till

-we overtook ours again, but the captains both generously refused for

-some cause or other. However, some of the brethren took their cattle

-out of their teams and let us have them and we moved onward. After

-traveling about thirteen miles we saw our cattle about four miles to

-the left of the road at the foot of a mountain. We halted and Lamb took

-one of the mules to fetch the cattle to the road. Soon after Pack and

-Jackson Redding came up and learning that we had found the cattle, they

-started to them to drive them to camp and Lamb being relieved, returned

-to the wagon. We harnessed up and arrived at the mineral spring about

-six o'clock, having traveled sixteen and a quarter miles. This spring

-has been represented as poisonous but if it is so, it must be in

-consequence of minerals under the water. The water has no bad taste

-till the cattle trample in it. It then becomes almost black as ink and

-this is probably what makes it poisonous.

-

-Wednesday, September 8

-

-We started at eight o'clock and arrived at the Upper Platte ferry soon

-after twelve o'clock. We found N. Jacobs and company there hunting.

-We forded the river and found it about two feet deep in the channel.

-We halted on the banks about two hours at which time the whole camp

-arrived. We then proceeded on. The main company went about five miles

-but we went till we found a good camping place in a grove of timber on

-the banks of the river where the road runs through, then halted for

-night, having traveled nineteen miles.

-

-Thursday, September 9

-

-This morning Norton Jacob's company joined us at eight o'clock and

-we moved forward. Found the road rough, it being cut up by the other

-companies in wet weather. We arrived on Deer Creek about sundown and

-camped for the night, having traveled twenty-two and a quarter miles.

-The day fine and very pleasant. Joseph Hancock killed an elk which the

-brethren packed to camp on horseback about sixteen miles.

-

-Friday, September 10

-

-We have had a strong southwest wind all night and the morning is

-somewhat cool. We started a little before eight o'clock and had good

-traveling. We saw many herds of buffalo but the hunters did not get

-any while passing. We arrived at the river A La Perle at three o'clock

-and camped for the night having traveled seventeen and a half miles.

-A while before dark, some of the men came in with a part of a buffalo

-which they killed. Lewis Barney also killed a young one which was

-considerably fat. The meat was all packed in on horses. One of the men

-killed a wolf out of which we got considerable grease for the wagons.

-It was decided to have a guard each night the remainder of the journey,

-every man to stand in his turn, four each night.

-

-Saturday, September 11

-

-Got up at twelve o'clock and stood guard till daylight. The morning

-very fine and pleasant. Three of the brethren arrived from the camp

-back and said that during the night before last the Indians had

-stolen sixteen or seventeen of their horses and they were in pursuit

-of them. We were detained some on account of several of the horses

-having rambled off, but about nine o'clock we started on and traveled

-to the La Bonte River, distance nineteen and a half miles. There are

-many buffalo around here also and although we have plenty of meat, the

-brethren continue to kill them. We find the feed eaten off bare almost

-every place we come to and it is difficult to find grass to sustain our

-teams.

-

-Sunday, September 12

-

-We traveled this day seventeen and three quarters miles and camped

-by Heber's Spring on Horseshoe Creek. We found the spring had ceased

-running but there was water in the creek a little north. The roadometer

-has broken down today over the same ground it broke as we went west.

-Our bread stuff is now out and we have to live solely on meat the

-balance of the journey. John Pack has got flour enough to last him

-through. We have all messed together until ours was eaten, and now John

-Pack proposes for each man to mess by himself. He has concealed his

-flour and beans together with tea, coffee, sugar, etc., and cooks after

-the rest have gone to bed. Such things seem worthy of remembrance for a

-time to come.

-

-Monday, September 13

-

-We fixed the roadometer this morning, then traveled to Dead Timber

-Creek, distance fifteen miles. Here we find good feed and plenty of

-wood and water.

-

-Tuesday, September 14

-

-Started at nine o'clock and traveled till about five, then camped on

-the Platte River, having traveled twenty-four and a quarter miles. In

-consequence of some things which have passed and some which at present

-exist, I have concluded to go on as fast as circumstances will permit

-to Winter Quarters and I intend to start tomorrow. Some have opposed

-it, but not with a good grace. However, I have no fears that the

-council will censure me when they know the cause. If they do, I will

-bear the censure in preference to what I now bear. Before dark Luke

-Johnson, William A. Empey and Appleton Harmon came up from Laramie,

-having learned from an Indian that wagons were near. They say that a

-party of Sioux warriors have got the brethren's horses, seventeen in

-number, on the Raw Hide, about eighteen miles north. They say that

-about fifty armed men might go and probably get them, but not fewer.

-The Sioux are at war with the Crows and Pawnees and reports say that

-there is a large party of the Pawnees a little down the river.

-

-Wednesday, September 15

-

-We started a little after eight, forded the Platte without any

-difficulty and at three o'clock concluded to stop for the night, having

-traveled twenty-one and a quarter miles over very sandy road. The ox

-teams have kept nearly up with us and it is evident they intend to keep

-with us or kill their teams, and being aware that if the teams are

-injured we shall be blamed for it, we have given up going ahead to save

-the teams.

-

-Thursday, September 16

-

-Today we traveled nineteen and a half miles over good road and camped

-near the river amongst good grass.

-

-Friday, September 17

-

-This morning Thomas Brown, Ezra Beckstead, Mathew Welch, Benjamin

-Roberts, David Perkins and William Bird started to go through to Winter

-Quarters in consequence of having no bread. We traveled nineteen and

-three quarters miles and camped again on the Platte. The road very good.

-

-Saturday, September 18

-

-Last night John Pack's gray horse was stolen from his wagon. He lays

-it to the brethren ahead and with Norton Jacobs and Joseph Hancock has

-heaped a pretty long string of severe abusive language on them which

-I consider to be premature, unjustifiable and wicked. Two Frenchmen

-came to the camp and said they were camped below on a trading excursion

-among the Sioux. Inasmuch as some of the brethren wanted to trade with

-them, it was concluded to move down opposite to them. We accordingly

-traveled four and a quarter miles then again camped on the banks of the

-river and the brethren bought a number of buffalo robes, etc. Norton

-Jacobs bought five robes for seven common calico shirts.

-

-Sunday, September 19

-

-The traders say they will move down the river today to where there are

-plenty of buffalo. Our camp also traveled ten and three quarters miles

-and camped a little below Chimney Rock. There are many herds of buffalo

-around and Lewis Barney killed one which will give us a little fresh

-meat. The weather has been very fine and warm for some days past. This

-evening there are some signs of stormy weather.

-

-Monday, September 20

-

-Today we traveled seven and a quarter miles, the day very hot. We

-turned off the road to camp at Rubidoos' request while they killed some

-buffalo. They gave us some very nice meat.

-

-Tuesday, September 21

-

-We have concluded to wait here until the balance of the company

-arrives. Afternoon went over the river and had a good feast on buffalo

-ribs with the Frenchmen. The victuals were cooked by a squaw but looked

-much cleaner than our men cook it. Evening it became cloudy and soon

-followed by cold rain which continued till two o'clock.

-

-Wednesday, September 22

-

-At one o'clock, I got up to stand guard and found the night extremely

-cold and unpleasant on account of rain. The morning is cloudy and cold.

-The wagons have not yet come in sight which makes us think there is

-something the matter with them.

-

-Thursday, September 23

-

-Today Jackson Redding and Sanderson went back to see if they could see

-the other wagons. They returned at night and said the company were

-within a few miles having been detained at Laramie to recover their

-horses, most of which they got. They state that news has come to the

-fort by a Sioux Indian that the twelve and their company had all their

-horses stolen at the Pacific Springs during a snow storm. The Sioux

-stole them supposing them to belong to the Shoshones. The man that

-brought the news stole seventeen but lost eight in the mountains, the

-remainder he brought to Laramie and the brethren there knew some of

-them and demanded them. He gave them up, at least all they could prove

-and four of the brethren started with them to meet the twelve. The

-Indian says there were nine of them who stole the horses.

-

-Friday, September 24

-

-We resumed our journey this morning and traveled thirteen and a half

-miles, then camped where the road runs close to the river. The weather

-is again fine and hot in the day time but the nights are cold and

-frosty. Joseph Hancock killed a buffalo cow and John Norton an antelope

-which will supply the company with a little meat each, most of whom are

-without.

-

-Saturday, September 25

-

-The day cloudy and some like for a storm. We made an early start and

-traveled to Crab Creek, distance twenty and a quarter miles then

-camped for the night. The land on both sides the river is literally

-spotted with vast herds of buffalo, but our hunters are not very lucky

-as yet. From the fact of there being so many buffalo in this region,

-we are inclined to believe we shall see but few lower down and this

-is probably the best chance we will have to lay in a supply to last

-us home. During the afternoon, Joseph Hancock killed a buffalo cow

-and Captain Rappleyee sent a wagon to fetch the meat to camp. When it

-arrived John Pack took the hind quarters and the best meat off the rest

-of the cow, together with all the tallow, then sent for Rappleyee to

-take what he had left and divide it amongst the company. When Rappleyee

-saw what he had done, he felt angry and Pack and he had some high words

-on the subject. Brother Pack's conduct has caused many unpleasant

-feelings against him among the brethren. He takes all the tallow he can

-lay his hands on, and all the best meat and has now got more than will

-serve him home while many of the rest have scarcely any and that of

-the poorest pieces. He has plenty of flour, meal, beans, tea, coffee,

-sugar, etc., while most of the camp are destitute of everything but

-meat, and while he continues to take the tallow and best of the meat

-there will be hard feelings against him. He has disgraced himself in

-the estimation of many within the past few days. I do not think I can

-ever forget him for his treatment of me, but I cherish no malice nor

-feelings of revenge, but I hope and pray that I may forever have wisdom

-to keep from under his power. There have been six or eight buffalo

-killed by the camp and it is intended to stay here tomorrow and try to

-get meat to last us through as it is not likely we shall have another

-privilege as good as this. Most of the camp now begin to feel that it

-is necessary for us to make our way home as fast as possible to save

-our teams and escape the cold rain and snowstorms.

-

-Sunday, September 26

-

-Many of the brethren are gone out hunting. The weather continues fine

-and warm. In the afternoon we had a strong northwest wind. During the

-day the second division killed more than enough meat to last them home,

-but were totally unwilling to let the first division have any although

-they killed none, not having but two or three guns in the division.

-This also has tended to increase the feeling of envy and bitterness

-which already exists too much. Thomas Cloward has manifested feelings

-and conduct worse than the general run of gentiles and unworthy of a

-saint. He seems to have drunk into Pack's spirit for they act very much

-alike.

-

-Monday, September 27

-

-Those of the first division who have no meat have concluded to move

-on a few miles to where there are more buffalo as they have mostly

-left here, but the second division will not move till they have dried

-their meat some. We went on three miles and then camped where there

-are plenty of buffalo over the river. Lisbon Lamb, Lewis Barney and

-John Norton volunteered to go and kill what meat they can for those who

-have none. They have got enough to last them through. It is said that

-our coming down here has given feelings but it is plain and evident

-that there are several men who will find fault and deal out wholesale

-censure whatever is done, and for my part I shall remember John Pack,

-Thomas Cloward, Norton Jacobs and Joseph Hancock for some time to come.

-Such little, selfish, unmanly conduct as has been manifested by them,

-is rarely exhibited except by the meanest classes of society. A man who

-will openly and boldly steal is honorable when compared with some of

-their underhanded conduct. During the day the brethren killed five cows

-and one bull which are considered sufficient to last the first division

-home.

-

-Tuesday, September 28

-

-We waited till after nine o'clock for the second division to come up

-but not being yet in sight we moved onward, traveled seventeen and a

-half miles, then camped on Sand Hill Creek about a mile from the river.

-We have seen more buffalo today than I ever saw in one day, supposed to

-be not less than 200,000. We had some trouble to make a road through

-them safely. We also saw two horses with the herd. Jackson Redding went

-to try and catch them but found them perfectly wild.

-

-Wednesday, September 29

-

-We got an early start this morning and traveled till four o'clock,

-distance twenty and a quarter miles. We camped near the river in high

-grass. The road has run close to the river all day except a few miles

-beyond Castle Creek and although the ground is perfectly dry, it is

-very rough, it having been cut up in wet weather. Watch and Wolfe

-Creeks had abundance of water in them, as much as when we went up.

-Castle River was about a foot deep. We have not seen many buffalo today

-but after we camped, John Norton shot two at one shot. L. Barney also

-killed a young cow. The weather is yet fine and very warm.

-

-Thursday, September 30

-

-This day we traveled only sixteen and a quarter miles, then camped a

-quarter of a mile east of Rattlesnake Creek on the banks of the river.

-In this creek, there is still a very heavy current of water running. It

-appears that some of the brethren left their fires burning this morning

-and the prairie has caught fire and is still burning furiously.

-

-

-

-October 1847

-

-Friday, October 1

-

-This morning I wrote a short letter and left it in a post for the

-company behind. We traveled twenty miles and camped on Bluff Creek. The

-day fine and very warm.

-

-Saturday, October 2

-

-This morning we calculated to travel eleven miles, but on arriving at

-the North Bluff fork, we found no grass and were compelled to continue

-on. We traveled till the road strikes the river and some grass, then

-camped, having traveled eighteen and a half miles. Three buffalo have

-been killed today and there are considerable in this region. Two of the

-oxen gave out and had to be left on the road.

-

-Sunday, October 3

-

-This morning we traveled four and a quarter miles, then camped opposite

-some islands where there is pretty good feed and willows. The day has

-been exceedingly warm and the brethren have dried a good quantity of

-meat. Considerable anxiety and feeling has originated in the breasts

-of two or three brethren in consequence of a rumor being circulated

-which deeply concerns one individual but it is not known whom. In the

-evening, a strong north wind blew up which made it turn very cool.

-

-Monday, October 4

-

-Cool and pleasant. We traveled twenty and three quarters miles and

-found that the last company have made a new road near the bluffs to

-avoid a very bad slough. We went a little on the old road and then

-struck across to the new road but had considerable difficulty in

-crossing the slough. We camped beside a small lake of not very good

-water and several miles from timber.

-

-Tuesday, October 5

-

-Pleasant day. We traveled nineteen miles, then turned off the road

-about a half a mile to camp near a small bunch of timber. The brethren

-have killed a good many buffalo today. They are very plentiful here,

-and wolves abundant.

-

-Wednesday, October 6

-

-The largest part of the company again concluded to tarry a day again

-although there is little feed here. Some determined to go on a piece

-and amongst the rest, I felt more willing to go on than to tarry.

-Accordingly eleven wagons started, viz. Jackson Redding, William

-A. Empey, Lewis Barney, Roswell Stevens, Cummings, Joseph Hancock,

-H. W. Sanderson, John Pack, Thos. Cloward, Zebedee Coltrin and

-Norton Jacobs. We traveled seventeen and a half miles and then turned

-off the road about a half a mile to camp.

-

-Thursday, October 7

-

-We started a little before 10:00 a.m. and traveled till nearly dark and

-had then to run over a mile from the road to camp. We traveled nineteen

-and a quarter miles. Wind very strong from the north and a very cold

-day.

-

-Friday, October 8

-

-Just as we started this morning, twelve or fifteen Indians were seen

-running over the river towards us. They soon came up to the wagons

-which were somewhat scattered and although they shook hands, they

-showed savage hostility. Four of the oxen were not yet yoked up; these

-they drove off from the wagons which now began to draw together.

-They soon satisfied us that they were bent on robbing us and without

-ceremony took Jack Redding's horse from behind the wagon. Lamb went to

-take it from them and seized the lariat which another immediately cut

-with his knife. Lamb then got on the horse, but no sooner on than two

-Indians pulled him off and marched off with the horse. They stole Jack

-Redding's knife out of its sheath and one from John Pack. They also

-tried to get Jack off the horse he was riding, but he kept his seat.

-They tried Skeen's horse but he kicked one of them over. The Indians

-then tried to get the men out of their wagons so that they might get

-in and plunder, but every man kept in his wagon to guard it and we

-concluded to turn about and go back to the company. We accordingly

-started and the Indians turned back towards the timber with the horse,

-four oxen, two knives and a sack of salt. After traveling back about

-six miles, we met the company, told the story and bore their slang and

-insults without saying much, but not without thinking a great deal.

-The whole company were then formed in two lines. All the arms were

-loaded and each man that could raise a gun was ordered to walk beside

-the wagons, the horsemen to go ahead. We then proceeded on and when

-we came opposite to where we met with the Indians, the horsemen went

-down and found the oxen where we left them. They brought them and we

-traveled till dark, then camped near the river, having traveled five

-and a quarter miles from last night, exclusive of the distance we went

-back. A strong guard was placed around the cattle and camp and kept up

-through the night. Many hard speeches have passed among the brethren,

-such as "damned hypocrites," "damned liars," "mutineers," etc., and

-most of those who started ahead are ordered to travel in the rear all

-the time. This savage, tyrannical conduct was one thing which induced

-some to leave and undertake to go through alone and more peaceably

-and it will still leave feelings of revenge and hatred which will

-require some time to cover up. Young Babcock shook his fist in Zebedee

-Coltrin's face and damned him and said he could whip him. For my part,

-I shall be glad when I get in more peaceable society, and I think I

-shall not easily be caught in such a scrape again.

-

-Saturday, October 9

-

-We have had no disturbance from Indians. We started at six o'clock and

-went on five miles to get better feed. We then halted for breakfast.

-The remainder of the day's travel was mostly over dog towns. A United

-States soldier came up to the wagons and went with us a few miles. He

-says there are ninety of them on the island surveying and looking out a

-place to build a fort. We traveled seventeen and a quarter miles today,

-then camped near a low bench of land where there is plenty of grass and

-water and willows for fuel. A number of the soldiers came over to camp.

-They say the Pawnees are perfectly enraged and savage and that the

-worst band of between four and five hundred are on the north side the

-Platte about forty miles below.

-

-Sunday, October 10

-

-Morning fine but cold wind. The captains called the camp together and

-asked whether we shall wait here three days or a week for the twelve,

-or shall we continue on to Winter Quarters. Thirty men voted to go on,

-seventeen voted to wait and the remainder did not vote. The majority

-having voted to go on, we started and traveled very slowly till about

-five o'clock, then turned off to the river to camp, having traveled

-sixteen miles. There are many new tracks of Indians on the sand bar,

-but we have seen none today.

-

-Monday, October 11

-

-Morning, cloudy and cold. We have had a little very cold rain and

-there is great appearance for more. We started on but it continued to

-rain heavily till near noon. The afternoon was fair but very cold. We

-traveled twenty-one and a quarter miles and camped amongst high grass

-close to timber. There is every chance for Indians tonight if any are

-near. The camp in general are much dissatisfied with the camping place.

-

-Tuesday, October 12

-

-This morning the weather was severely cold with strong wind. Some of

-the cattle were missing and the owners not going to hunt them till the

-rest were ready to start on, we were detained till eleven o'clock and

-then proceeded. We found plenty of water in Wood River but did not lose

-much time crossing. We took one of the late wagon trails and arrived

-on Prairie Creek a little before sundown, having traveled fifteen and

-three quarters miles. We have seen no Indians yet and all goes well but

-the cold weather.

-

-Wednesday, October 13

-

-Morning very cold indeed with strong northwest wind. We found the creek

-difficult to cross, it being soft and miry, but all soon got over

-safely and we proceeded on. The road is sandy about five or six miles

-on the bluffs and very crooked all the way. We arrived and camped on

-the Loup Fork at dark, having traveled twenty-one and three quarters

-miles. The day has been excessively cold.

-

-Thursday, October 14

-

-Much time was lost this morning in hunting for a place to cross the

-river. It was finally concluded to cross a mile higher up and we

-proceeded to the place. While going up we saw a company of horsemen and

-two wagons on the other side the river, which we soon recognized to be

-our brethren from Winter Quarters. All the wagons got over safely and

-camped on the hill, having traveled two miles. The company is a part of

-the old police going to meet the next company. We were gladdened with

-the news they bring from Winter Quarters.

-

-Friday, October 15

-

-The brethren of the police started early this morning to go on and meet

-the next company. They got well over the river but not without getting

-into the water to lift at the wagon wheels. It was late when we started

-on account of some oxen being missing and there are some who will not

-look for their cattle till all the rest are ready to start. We traveled

-till a little after three and camped on the banks of the Loup Fork,

-distance twelve and three quarters miles, day warmer.

-

-Saturday, October 16

-

-The night has been very stormy, there being a strong wind, rain, and

-very cold. We made an early start and by noon arrived at the mission

-station. We found the Pawnees busy gathering corn, probably nearly a

-thousand of men, women and children. They soon began to come to the

-wagons and their chiefs made inquiries by signs about the Chirrarots

-or Sioux. Some of the brethren gave them to understand that the Sioux

-were within five days of them. The chief immediately gave the word to

-the rest and in half an hour the squaws had loaded their corn on ponies

-and mules and then began to march towards the river. They show great

-fear of the Sioux. They were very anxious to have us camp with them

-tonight but we kept moving on. One of the wagons was upset crossing

-a ravine. Several of the brethren traded for corn. At three o'clock,

-we arrived and turned out the teams on Beaver River, having traveled

-seventeen and a quarter miles. Soon after we arrived, some of the

-Indians came up, having followed with the idea of trading. They have

-conducted themselves peaceably so far, but they are not to be trusted.

-In consequence of their following us, it was the feeling of most of the

-brethren to go on a few miles after dark. At 5:45 we started on and

-traveled till 8:30 being six and a half miles, then camped beside the

-lakes. Evening very fine and pleasant. We have traveled twenty-three

-and three quarters miles today.

-

-Sunday, October 17

-

-We started early and traveled to Looking Glass, then halted for

-breakfast. Morning windy and cold. After breakfast, we started on again

-and traveled till four o'clock, distance sixteen and a quarter miles,

-then camped at a point of timber near a creek or lake and not far from

-the Loup Fork.

-

-Monday, October 18

-

-Started at eight o'clock and traveled to Shell Creek distance eighteen

-and three quarters miles, day pleasant but cool.

-

-Tuesday, October 19

-

-The night was excessively cold and this morning there is considerable

-ice. We got an early start and traveled to where the road leaves the

-river and crosses to the Horn. At this place there is a liberty pole

-set up by some of the brethren. We have traveled today twenty-three and

-a quarter miles and we now find that the grass is all burned off ahead

-of us as far as we can see, probably to the Elk Horn. We are cheered by

-a view of the timber on that stream.

-

-Wednesday, October 20

-

-We started early and found the prairie all burned off to the Elk Horn

-except in small patches. We arrived at the Horn about noon and soon

-after commenced crossing where Hosea Stout and company crossed. The

-water was nearly three feet deep and the bottom somewhat soft, but we

-were soon all over without accident except John Pack, who broke his

-wagon tongue. We then had to make a road through high, strong grass for

-upwards of half a mile and found a very bad creek or slough to cross.

-When we again struck the main road, we found it good and started for

-the Papea where we arrived soon after dark, all except one wagon which

-was left a mile back. The evening cool and windy.

-

-Thursday, October 21

-

-This morning, Brother Empey, Lamb and myself started early accompanied

-by six horsemen and arrived in Winter Quarters a little before noon.

-I found my family all well except Moroni who is very sick and his

-mother is somewhat sick. Their circumstances are not good, but in

-other respects they have been prosperous for which I thank my God.

-There has been much sickness here and many deaths during the fall

-and many are now suffering for lack of some of the comforts of life.

-We have been prosperous on our journey home and have arrived in nine

-weeks and three days, including a week's delay waiting for the twelve

-and killing buffalo. Our health has been remarkably good, but we have

-lacked provisions, many of us having nothing but dry buffalo meat. I

-have succeeded in measuring the whole distance from the City of the

-Great Salt Lake to this place, except a few miles between Horse Creek

-and the A La Bonte River which was taken from the measurement going

-up. I find the whole distance to be 1,032 miles and am now prepared

-to make a complete traveler's guide from here to the Great Salt Lake,

-having been careful in taking the distance from creek to creek, over

-bluffs, mountains, etc. It has required much time and care and I have

-continually labored under disadvantages in consequence of the companies

-feeling no interest in it. The health of my family has encouraged me

-for all that is past and my secret gratitude shall ascend to Heaven for

-the unbounded kindness and mercies which the Almighty has continually

-poured upon them in my absence.

-

-

-

-

-

-End of Project Gutenberg's William Clayton's Journal, by William Clayton

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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 45051 ***
+
+William Clayton's Journal
+
+A Daily Record of the Journey of the Original Company of "Mormon"
+Pioneers from Nauvoo, Illinois, to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake
+
+
+Copyright 1921 by Lawrence Clayton, trustee for the Clayton Family
+Association.
+
+
+Electronic edition produced by the Mormon Texts Project. To report
+typos or formatting errors, you can email mormontextsproject@gmail.com.
+
+Volunteers who helped with this book: Eric Heaps, Meridith Crowder, Ben
+Crowder, Tod Robbins, David Van Leeuwen, Lili DeForest, Jude Ogzewalla,
+Byron Clark.
+
+Version 1.0
+
+
+
+Foreword
+
+William Clayton was one of the remarkable characters of early Utah
+history. Born in the county of Lancashire, England, July 17, 1814,
+he was educated in one of the schools of his native town, and grew
+to manhood with a love for books and nature. An early convert of
+the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, he conducted one
+of the first companies from England to Nauvoo, and there became one
+of the trusted secretaries of the Prophet Joseph Smith. With the
+exodus from Nauvoo, he was Clerk of the Camp of Israel, and when the
+Mormon pioneers left Winter Quarters in April, 1847, he was appointed
+by Brigham Young one of the historians of that noted company. His
+journal of that memorable expedition over the plains is one of the
+most valuable diaries we have of that early period of western history.
+He kept careful account of the distances traveled each day, and his
+writings are full of descriptions of the country over which they
+traveled. He has noted the topography, the fauna and flora of the
+trail; and his descriptions of the activities of the company indicate
+a well trained intellect in social study. His language is simple and
+direct, and his care in keeping each day's distance and important facts
+of the journey show order and method.
+
+His hymn, "Come, come, ye Saints" takes its place as one of the most
+beautiful hymns of western history, for it is full of joyfulness,
+and expresses an optimism and faith in God that will always be an
+inspiration to the one who sings it. It indicates that William Clayton
+had much of the artistic in him, although we do know that he took a
+virile part in the activities of life.
+
+His journal should be read by all people who are interested in the
+west's development. It is certainly one of the distinct contributions
+of that early day, and shows that a man of strength of character wrote
+it. It will inspire many people to a greater love and regard for the
+work of the pioneers of Utah.
+
+ Levi Edgar Young
+ Salt Lake City, Utah
+ April 1921
+
+
+
+William Clayton
+
+Born in England, 1814; died in Utah, 1879
+
+The Claytons of England originally came from France. During the time
+when William the Conqueror and King Harold were quarreling, a call came
+from the former for volunteers among his chieftains to go to war. A man
+named Robert was among those who responded. Robert was skilled in arms.
+
+After the Battle of Hastings in 1066, in which Robert rendered heroic
+service, William the Conqueror conferred upon him the English Manor of
+Clayton as a mark of merit. Robert was afterwards known as Robert de
+Clayton and Lord of the Manor of Clayton. From Lord Robert Clayton came
+all the Claytons of England and America and by genealogical research,
+the line has been brought down to the subject of this sketch.
+
+William Clayton was born July 17, 1814, in the village of Charock
+Moss, Township of Penwortham, County Palatine of Lancaster, England.
+He was the son of Thomas and Ann Critchley Clayton, who were born in
+Lancashire, England. William was the eldest of fourteen children. Three
+of these children died in infancy and were buried in England. Through
+the influence of the eldest son, the father, mother and surviving
+children joined the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and
+came to America. The mother died in Nauvoo, Illinois, July 15, 1848,
+and the father in St. Louis, Missouri, June 16, 1849. A brother James
+died in Winter Quarters, November 28, 1847. The remainder of his
+brothers and sisters survived the persecutions of mobs and the early
+privations of the Church and came to the valley of the Great Salt Lake
+with the pioneers of Utah.
+
+William Clayton first heard the Gospel preached in England by Heber
+C. Kimball and Orson Hyde. With his wife, Ruth Moon Clayton, whom he
+married in England, October 9, 1836, he listened to the teachings of
+these missionaries, but he was not easy to convert. His wife received
+the Gospel first, and many evenings had to be spent before William
+Clayton became a believer in "Mormonism." He was ordained a Priest
+December 25, 1837, and a High Priest, April 1, 1838, at which time he
+was appointed with Willard Richards, Counselor to Joseph Fielding who
+presided over the Church in Europe.
+
+September 8, 1840, he left England in the packet ship _North America_,
+arriving in New York, October 11, 1840, and in Nauvoo, November 24,
+1840. In this city, he became a trusted friend of the founders of
+the Church, so much so that on February 10, 1842, he was appointed
+secretary to Joseph Smith the Prophet. October 7, 1842, he became
+Temple Recorder and Recorder of Revelations. In 1842, he became
+Treasurer of the City of Nauvoo. These appointments are indicative of
+the zeal with which William Clayton served the Church throughout his
+life.
+
+What of the personal characteristics of our subject? As will appear
+from his portrait on the frontispiece, William Clayton did not tend
+to frivolity or mirth but rather to seriousness and earnestness. Yet
+he was witty and had a keen sense of humor. In the home he was not
+demonstrative; although he had great love for his home and family and
+provided well for their comfort. He was methodical, always sitting in
+his own arm chair, having a certain place at the table and otherwise
+showing his love for order, which he believed the first law of heaven.
+His person was clean and tidy; his hands small and dimpled. He wore
+very little jewelry but what little he had was the best money could
+buy. He would not carry a watch that was not accurate, and his clothing
+was made from the best material. His children remember him best in
+black velvet coat and grey trousers and, in cold weather, a broad-cloth
+cloak in place of overcoat.
+
+The man-timber in William Clayton came from sturdy trees. His character
+was above all littleness. He believed that what was good for him was
+good for all men, and that the measurement of our lives was based upon
+our daily conduct towards each other. To him that was God's standard.
+He believed in perfect equity in the adjustment of the affairs of
+life. Had he loved money, he could probably have had it because of his
+education and executive ability. But he cared little for material gain,
+centering his zeal in the pursuit of honor and right.
+
+William Clayton was honest and nothing to him could justify an untruth.
+He deplored waste or extravagance, yet he never withheld from a
+neighbor in distress, or from the widow or orphan. Many are those who
+knew his generosity. When his harvest was gathered, bushels of grain
+and fruit found place among those of scanty store. And many pairs of
+shoes and much warm clothing were given to comfort the needy. Nor was
+the homeless forgotten, but the orphan was given a home and joy by his
+own fireside.
+
+His religion was deeply rooted and nurtured by association with and
+testimony of an eye witness to the living God. His love for Joseph
+Smith was love seldom shown in man for man. Few men possessed stronger
+faith and courage. These qualities alone could inspire a man under
+heart-rending circumstances, to write such hymns of faith and comfort
+as "Come, come, ye Saints," and "The Resurrection Day."
+
+The record of William Clayton in Utah kept pace with that of previous
+years. His home was open always to his friends who loved to gather
+there for social hours. Civic welfare always interested him. He was a
+musician and played in the pioneer orchestra and that of the Salt Lake
+Theatre. He was a lover of community features and took part in dramatic
+functions.
+
+He was treasurer of Zion's Cooperative Mercantile Institution, Recorder
+of Marks and Brands, Receiver of Weights and Measures, and was
+Territorial Auditor. His love for education prompted many sacrifices
+and he tried hard to give his children the essentials of good schooling.
+
+He had a strong will, although a tender conscience. Cowardice had no
+place in him. Truly he could say, "My heart is fixed. I know in whom I
+trust." Joseph Smith believed that they should meet and associate in
+the Celestial Kingdom of God as they had here.
+
+William Clayton died December 4, 1879, in Salt Lake City. Services were
+held in the Seventeenth Ward Chapel at which his own funeral hymn was
+sung. He left a large posterity.
+
+ Victoria C. McCune
+ Salt Lake City, Utah, June, 1921
+
+
+
+Editor's Note
+
+The descendants of William Clayton have in recent years formed
+themselves into an organization known as the Clayton Family
+Association. This book is offered to the public by the Association
+with the thought that a document of such faithful description and fine
+spirit would be welcomed by all people who might be interested either
+in the Pioneer Period of Western History or more particularly in the
+exodus of the Mormon people from Missouri to the valley of the Great
+Salt Lake. It is difficult to understand why the _Journal_ was not
+published years ago and it seems to require somewhat of an apology
+that this interesting record should have remained so long unknown and
+be now brought out with considerable haste. In the effort to have it
+ready for distribution to the members of the Clayton Family Association
+on the anniversary of the birth of their forefather on July 17th,
+there has been a sacrifice of care and deliberation in the preparation
+of this first edition which is hoped the reader will overlook upon
+consideration of the facts. This lack of time and care will show itself
+more in the text than in any other particular. Much of the proof
+reading was done by the undersigned on board train between Salt Lake
+and California. To say the least, such surroundings are not conducive
+to the most finished work. It is hoped that this circumstance will also
+make the reader more tolerant when encountering mistakes in the text,
+obviously the result of hasty proof reading. At a later date a second
+edition will do better justice to the author of the _Journal_ and will
+show more consideration for the fine taste of the reader.
+
+ Lawrence Clayton
+ Salt Lake City, Utah, June, 1921
+
+
+
+Table of Contents
+
+February 1846
+
+March 1846
+
+April 1846
+
+May 1846
+
+June 1846
+
+July 1846
+
+August 1846
+
+September 1846
+
+November 1846
+
+January 1847
+
+February 1847
+
+April 1847
+
+May 1847
+
+June 1847
+
+July 1847
+
+August 1847
+
+September 1847
+
+October 1847
+
+
+
+February 1846
+
+_Nauvoo, Illinois_
+
+Sunday, February 8
+
+At the office all day packing public goods, evening at Farr's writing
+out a letter of instruction to trustees.
+
+Monday, February 9
+
+At the office packing. At 3:30 the temple was seen on fire. Women
+carrying water.
+
+Tuesday, February 10
+
+At the temple packing, also Wednesday 11th.
+
+Thursday, February 12
+
+At home preparing to move.
+
+Friday, February 13
+
+Sent four loads of goods over the river. Loading and packing.
+
+Saturday, February 14
+
+Packing and seeking letters.
+
+Sunday, February 15
+
+Riding around to get teams and things together. Sent two teams over the
+river.
+
+Monday, February 16
+
+Still loading teams, also Tuesday 17th.
+
+Wednesday, February 18
+
+Got about ready to go over the river. Evening President Brigham Young,
+Heber C. Kimball, J. M. Grant and some of the pioneers came to hurry
+us over. N. K. Whitney also came in. We conversed together some. They
+state the brethren have made a perfect waste of food and property in
+the camp.
+
+Thursday, February 19
+
+This morning the ground is covered with snow. It is so windy they
+cannot cross the river. Continued to snow all day. Evening went to
+Elder Babbit's to supper with Elder Kimball. President Young was there,
+Backenstos, J. M. Grant and some others.
+
+Friday, February 20
+
+The weather is very cold and windy. Impossible to cross the river.
+Spent the day running after things to get ready, fixing wagons and
+chopping fire wood.
+
+Friday, February 27
+
+We have spent the past week waiting for crossing over the [Mississippi]
+river. It has been hard frost and much snow. This morning I concluded
+to start over the river and began early to send my teams. About noon I
+crossed with my family and then rested the teams and soon after went
+on to the camp where we arrived a little before four o'clock. Bishop
+Whitney concluded to stay at the river until morning because some of
+his teams could not get over. When we got to the camp we were received
+with joy and formed in the company of the band. The weather is still
+very cold especially during the night. The distance from Nauvoo to this
+place is called seven and a half miles.
+
+Saturday, February 28
+
+A.M. arranging my tents, etc. At twelve was sent for to council and
+about two the band was requested to go and meet bishop Whitney and his
+teams. We went and met him five miles from the camp. We played some
+time and then returned to the camp. President Young, Heber C. Kimball,
+P. P. Pratt, Orson Pratt and others accompanied us. At night played
+with the band.
+
+
+
+March 1846
+
+Sunday, March 1
+
+A.M. preparing to march to the next encampment. At ten a lecture was
+given by Elder Kimball and about one the company proceeded to the next
+camp about four and a half miles, where we arrived in good season.
+
+Monday, March 2
+
+Started this morning for another camp about eight miles where we
+arrived about five p.m., the roads being somewhat hilly and muddy. The
+band played at night. During the day the artillery company broke into
+our ranks several times and broke a number of our wagon boxes. At night
+they complained of us at headquarters, but after hearing our story the
+matter stood about right.
+
+Tuesday, March 3
+
+Proceeded on our journey through Farmington about eight miles to a
+place where bishop Miller was encamped and arrived in good season. The
+band played at night.
+
+Wednesday, March 4
+
+This morning we concluded to stay a day and fix up some wagons which
+were broken. A number of the citizens from Farmington came to the camp
+and gave a very pressing invitation for the band to go to Farmington
+and play some. Accordingly about three o'clock, the band started and
+arrived at Farmington about 4:30 p.m. We played at the principal hotel
+and then went to the school house and played till nearly dark. The
+house was filled with men and women, the leading people of the place.
+We then returned to the hotel where they had provided us with a good
+supper. They also gave us $5 in money. John Kay sang a number of songs.
+At eight o'clock we returned and when we left they gave us three
+cheers. When we arrived at the camp we met thirty of the guard just
+starting out to meet us. The President felt uneasy at our staying so
+long and was sending the men to protect us.
+
+Thursday, March 5
+
+Proceeded on our journey. Crossed the Des Moines river at Bonaparte and
+afterwards had a very bad road up the bluff for several miles which
+detained us until late in the afternoon. We stopped awhile to feed the
+band teams inasmuch as they had none this morning. We then started and
+went to the next camping ground, making the day's journey about sixteen
+miles.
+
+Saturday, March 7
+
+Proceeded about eight miles to a camp ground near to a Dr. Elberts
+where the band camped. President Young was behind and when he arrived
+he went on about eight miles farther. The band went to work splitting
+rails for corn and made before dark, about 1:30. In the evening Dr.
+Elbert and some others came to hear the band play. Kay sang some songs
+which pleased them.
+
+Sunday, March 8
+
+Waited for orders from headquarters. Many of the citizens came to hear
+the band play and gave us a very pressing invitation to go to Keosaugua
+and give a concert. About noon word came that we should follow on to
+the camp. We immediately struck tents and started and we arrived at
+the main camp about five o'clock. Some of the citizens from Keosaugua
+followed us waiting for an answer whether we would give a concert as
+soon as we arrived at the camp. I asked the President whether the band
+should go to Keosaugua to give a concert. He advised us to go and I
+immediately sent out the appointment and then we pitched our tents
+forming a line on the road opposite to the President's company.
+
+Monday, March 9
+
+Spent the day chiefly preparing for the concert and attending on my
+family.
+
+Tuesday, March 10
+
+The weather still continues fine. Spent the morning preparing for
+the concert and about one o'clock p.m. started in company with the
+brass band for Keosaugua. I rode in Elder Kimball's wagon with
+William Kimball, J. Smithies and Wm. Pitt. The distance from the camp
+to Keosaugua is about ten miles, the camp being at a place called
+Richardson's point. We arrived at Keosaugua about three o'clock and
+being requested we went through the town and played some. One of the
+grocery keepers invited us to play him a tune which we did. He then
+invited us in and offered to treat us to anything he had. We each took
+a little and then the next grocery keeper sent an invitation for us
+to play him a tune. We did so and he also gave us anything he had. A
+beer keeper next sent word that he did not want us to slight him and
+we went and played him a tune and then took some of his cake and beer.
+We then marched up to the Des Moines hotel near the court-house where
+we had ordered supper and after eating we went to the courthouse to
+prepare for the concert. At seven o'clock the house was crowded and we
+commenced, playing and singing till about 9:30. The audience seemed
+highly pleased and gave loud applause. About the close one of the
+citizens got up and said it was the wish of many that we should repeat
+the concert the following evening and he took a vote of all who wished
+us to go again. The vote was unanimous. We made nearly $25.00 clear of
+all expenses. We started back for the camp soon after ten and arrived
+about one o'clock all well and pleased.
+
+Wednesday, March 11
+
+In the morning I reported to President Young our success and the
+request of the citizens of Keosaugua and he advised us to go again. We
+accordingly started about eleven o'clock. I again rode with William
+Kimball, Horace Whitney and James Smithies. When we arrived we were
+welcomed again with the same kind feelings as yesterday. Pitt had a
+severe chill all the way and when we got there it commenced raining
+and made it very unpleasant. The house was again filled but we only
+made $20.00 besides all expenses. We learned that there is a party of
+socialists there and they and the priests are much opposed to each
+other. We also learned that a man named McCully was in jail close by
+under sentence to be hung on the 4th of April for murdering a man and a
+child. I did not feel so well at the concert as on the night previous
+on several accounts. We started back between eleven and twelve and got
+to the camp about three o'clock.
+
+Thursday, March 12
+
+The band moved to better ground about one quarter of a mile farther.
+The heavy rains had made it very muddy and unpleasant, all our bedding
+and things being wet.
+
+Friday, March 13
+
+Went hunting.
+
+Saturday, March 14
+
+Wrote a letter to Diantha.
+
+Sunday, March 15
+
+In camp all day.
+
+Monday, March 16
+
+Some of the citizens of Keosaugua came again to request us to give
+another concert. We agreed to go tomorrow evening.
+
+Tuesday, March 17
+
+Started for Keosaugua with Pitt, Hutchinson, Kay, Smithies and Egan.
+I took my music box and china to try and sell them. We arrived in
+good season and soon learned that the priests had been hard at work
+preventing the sectarians from coming to the concert, saying that it
+was an infidel move consequently there were not many present. We had
+far the best concert which lasted till nine o'clock. We then went over
+to the hotel, took supper and played for a private party till about
+three o'clock. We only cleared from both, about $7.00 over expenses but
+were well treated.
+
+Wednesday, March 18
+
+It rained last night and this morning again and we almost concluded
+to go to Fairfield, but finally determined to return to camp. We
+visited with a Mr. Bridgman who treated us very kindly. Bought about
+eight bushels of beans and some articles for President Young and then
+returned to camp. It rained some again today. We got back about five
+o'clock. After dark Dr. Elbert came to see my china and said if I would
+take it over tomorrow he would buy it.
+
+Thursday, March 19
+
+Went to ask council whether I should go to sell my china. Saw Heber who
+advised me to go. A few of us started and soon met President Young who
+said we had better go back and go with the camp who were then starting
+on their way. We accordingly turned back our horses and struck tents in
+a hurry. At twelve o'clock we started on our journey. After traveling
+about six or seven miles we had to go up a very bad bluff which took
+us till five o'clock. President Young's company went ahead of us and
+camped three miles from the bluff. Some of our teams gave out and we
+only went about a mile from the bluff and camped in a little point of
+timber a little from the road. Our teams were very tired.
+
+Saturday, March 21
+
+We started early in the morning and soon came up with the main body of
+the camp. I rode ahead about three miles to hunt my cow. We did not
+have her last night being with the main camp. We traveled nine or ten
+miles and then rested our teams. We started again and traveled three
+miles farther where we found the President and Heber camped on the
+brink of a long bluff. We concluded to go to the other bank which we
+did and camped in a good place. In the evening the band went and played
+for the President and Heber and then went to a farmer's house at the
+owner's request about three quarters of a mile from camp to play for
+his family. He promised to give us some honey if we would play for
+him. We played about an hour and then left but neither saw nor heard
+anything of the honey. We learned afterwards, however, that Hutchinson
+had a pail under his cloak and got it full of honey after the rest had
+left the house and kept it to himself, very slyly.
+
+Sunday, March 22
+
+Started again and soon came to the Shariton bottoms which is a very low
+land for about four miles. The road was bad and it took us sometime to
+cross. While on the bottom Root and Davis came again. Root had asked
+permission of President Young to go back to his family some days ago
+but it seems things did not go to suit him and he followed his team
+again. It took sometime to go up the bluff. We had to let the teams
+down into the Shariton river by ropes and also helped them up again by
+the same means. Our company got over in good season but we concluded
+to camp after getting up the bluff as it would take till night for the
+whole to get up. I spent the day helping the teams till I was so sore
+and tired I could scarcely walk.
+
+Monday, March 23
+
+In council with Brigham, Heber, and others. We found that Miller's
+company had gone still farther about eight miles instead of waiting
+till we overtook them so that we could organize. I wrote a letter to
+them saying if they did not wait or return to organize, the camp would
+organize without and they be disfellowshiped. We concluded to stay at
+this place a few days to buy corn to last to Grand river but we found
+corn scarce and 26c a bushel, the farmers having advanced on account of
+a disposition to speculate.
+
+Tuesday, March 24 and Wednesday, March 25
+
+At the camp writing, etc. It rained considerably.
+
+Thursday, March 26
+
+Evening in council. Wrote a long letter to be sent to Emmet's company
+by John Butler and James W. Cummings. This morning wrote another
+letter to P. P. Pratt, Orson Pratt, George Miller telling them
+they must wait for us or come back to organize. The letters were sent
+by Smithies. He met them on the way and about noon P. P. Pratt,
+Orson Pratt, John Kay and G. Miller came into camp and at 1:00 p.m.
+the council met. The brethren plead that the charges in the letters
+were unjust. They had not striven to keep out of the way but had done
+all for the best. The whole camp accordingly was organized, A. P.
+Rockwood over 1st 50; Stephen Markham, 2nd 50; Young, 3rd 50; Howard
+E. Kimball, 4th 50; Charles C. Rich, 5th 50; Charles Crisman, 6th 50.
+Each fifty had also appointed a contracting commissary for the purpose
+of contracting for work and grain as follows: Henry Sherwood 1st 50;
+David H. Kimball 2nd; Wm. H. Edwards 3rd; Peter Haws 4th; Joseph
+Worthen 5th; Samuel Gully 6th. It was understood that I continue to
+preside over the band and in the absence of Brother Haws over the whole
+fifty. After this there was appointed for each fifty a distributing
+commissary to distribute feed in camp as follows: Charles Kennedy for
+1st 50; J. M. Grant 2nd 50; Nathan Tanner 3rd 50; Orson B. Adams
+4th 50; James Allred 5th 50; Isaac Allred 6th 50. The brethren then
+gave the following instructions for the whole camp with orders that
+same be observed hereafter, viz. No man to set fire to prairies. No man
+to shoot off a gun in camp without orders. No man to go hunting unless
+he is sent and all to keep guns, swords and pistols out of sight. There
+was then appointed a clerk for each fifty as follows: John D. Lee
+Young, 1st 50; John Pack 2nd 50; Lorenzo Snow 3rd 50; Geo. H. Hales 4th
+50; John Oakley 5th 50; A. Lathrop 6th 50. The council then adjourned
+to meet at Shariton Ford camp on Monday at 10 a.m. We then returned to
+our camp where we arrived just at dark.
+
+Saturday, March 28
+
+In camp making out forms for clerks of 50's and also copied letter to
+James Emmet.
+
+Sunday, March 29
+
+Making forms for clerks of 50's and felt quite unwell all day with bad
+cold.
+
+Monday, March 30
+
+Met with the council. The guard and pioneers were divided and
+distributed amongst the several companies of 50's. It was also agreed
+that company No. 4 should go on to the next camp tomorrow and the
+remainder of the day following. Jackson Redding sold one of Keller's
+horses for one yoke of oxen, leaving me as bad off for teams as before.
+
+Tuesday, March 31
+
+It was concluded we could not get ready to move until tomorrow.
+O. P. Rockwell arrived with the mail. I received a letter from
+Diantha and father. President Young received one from the trustees,
+one from Matlock and one from E. Pratt which I read in council. I was
+ordered to write an answer to the trustees' and Matlock's letter, but
+being late I left it till morning when I was quite unwell. I got two
+new teamsters, Levi Kendall and Swap.
+
+
+
+April 1846
+
+Wednesday, April 1
+
+President Young also sent me two yoke of oxen, wagon, and Brother
+Jones, the owner, to assist me. We divided the load out of the spare
+wagons putting a yoke of oxen to each and about 11:00 started on our
+journey. Mother was very sick, and could not bear to ride. She walked
+all the way. I felt very unwell myself, having much pain in my limbs.
+The roads were bad, but we arrived in camp about 2:00 and got on good
+ground. After getting our tents fixed, fires made, etc., I went to
+wrestling, jumping etc., to try to get well. I over-exerted myself
+without any symptoms of perspiration and was so sick after I had to go
+to bed.
+
+Thursday, April 2
+
+I was very sick all day and unable to write the letters or meet with
+the council. O. P. Rockwell started back to Nauvoo with letters.
+One of the Brother Hales arrived to say to his brother who drives team
+for Pitt that his family is very sick and wants him to go back but
+we cannot spare the team and he says it is no use for him to go back
+without it. At night I wrote again to Diantha and sent it by Brother
+Hale who returns tomorrow.
+
+Friday, April 3
+
+This morning it was decided to start early so as to get over the bad
+roads and also travel about fifteen miles. We had to send a wagon and
+team to fetch the eight bushels of corn which some of the band earned
+by playing last night. We started, however, about eight o'clock. The
+roads were very bad and when we had traveled about three miles it began
+to thunder and rain. The clouds gathered fast and it soon showed signs
+for heavy rain the whole day. We reached Bishop Whitney's camp about
+noon and rested our teams while the rest came up. We then started again
+in the heavy rain and bad roads and traveled about three miles to
+Bishop Miller's camp. We had a very bad bluff to rise and had to double
+teams to get up. On the top I met Heber camped. He selected a camping
+ground for us and advised us to go no farther. President Young has gone
+on six or seven miles. It was about 5:00 before all our teams got up
+and it rained heavily all the time. Mother walked all day again in the
+rain. I was very sick myself and unable to do anything. Yesterday the
+portion of the guard detailed to our company joined in with us, being
+Orvil M. Allen and eight men. They reported themselves destitute of
+everything and said they had lived a week on corn meal gruel, Stout and
+Hunter having made them serve as their body guard and used them very
+hard. I dealt out some of my own flour and bacon to them, determined
+to comfort them some if I could and not being willing to see anyone in
+our company suffer while I have anything left. It continued to rain all
+night very hard.
+
+Saturday, April 4
+
+This morning all our clothing, beds and bed clothing were drenched
+and it has continued to rain all day. I have been sick again all day
+especially towards night. I was so distressed with pain it seemed as
+though I could not live. I went to bed and put a bag of hot salt on my
+chest which seemed to give me some ease but I suffered much through
+the night, and it continued to rain until after midnight. We put an
+extra cover on our sleeping wagon, which kept out the rain. We have
+only slept in the wagon three nights but have slept under a tent on the
+wet ground. Haws' company are now formed with us, making our 50 nearly
+complete. A number of the company feel unwell on account of the rain
+and wet.
+
+Sunday, April 5
+
+This morning I feel a little better and the day is fine and pleasant.
+I have spent the day writing in this journal, having written from
+memory all since the date of March 9th. Some of the dates may not be
+correct but the matters recorded are true. It is now 1:00 p.m. There
+is a meeting at Elder Kimball's camp but I am sent here in this wagon
+to fetch up this record. My health is somewhat better for which I
+feel thankful. Elder Kimball says we had better not attempt to move
+tomorrow. We can get corn within ten miles from here and he will help
+us to means. We have now to lay in corn to last till we get to Grand
+River about fifty miles farther, there being no farms on the road. On
+Friday evening I appointed Charles Terry captain of my ten and Henry
+A. Terry clerk and my brother James to attend on my family agreeable
+with the orders of the President that I may be able to spend my time
+writing for the council and camp and attend councils. Elder Kimball
+instructed the captains of tens to call their companies together at
+4:00. Agreeable with this, the band assembled in front of my tent and
+administered the sacrament. Wm. F. Cahoon and Charles A. Terry
+officiated. I spoke about three quarters of an hour on various subjects
+touching on our journey and the policy we ought to use, etc. After I
+had done Elder Haws spoke on some subjects and the meeting adjourned.
+The captains then went over to Elder Kimball's camp about sending for
+corn. We concluded to send four teams for our 50, Captain Egan and Haws
+then went through the camp to see if they could obtain some money. Haws
+obtained $31.45 and Egan $9.00. I sent $14.00 by Egan for some. Wrote
+to Diantha.
+
+Monday, April 6
+
+It has rained again the last night and continued to rain all day very
+heavily. The camp is very disagreeable and muddy. I spent the day
+reading. About 5:00 the clouds began to break and it looks more likely
+for being fair. In the evening Elder Kimball came over and the band met
+opposite Hutchinson's wagon and played some. After that the quadrille
+band met in my tent and played on the violins. All the time we were
+playing the lightning occasionally broke forth from the northwest and
+at 8:00 we dispersed just as the storm approached. Before I got to my
+tent the wind arrived and soon blew a perfect gale with heavy rain,
+hail, lightning and thunder. It continued for an hour and then abated
+some. All the tents in our company except mine and Pack's were blown
+down. The rain beat through the wagon covers and drenched the families
+and effects. It was the most severe storm we have experienced and with
+such wind it seems impossible to preserve our little clothing and
+provisions from being spoiled. But in the midst of all, the camp seems
+cheerful and happy and there are but few sick.
+
+Tuesday, April 7
+
+This morning it is fair but cold and windy. The ground is frozen stiff
+and considerable ice. Many of the tents are still lying flat and
+everything around shows that the storm was very severe. A number of the
+band have no meat and some no flour nor in fact scarcely any provisions
+and several have had little, only what I have given them out of the
+stock I laid in for my family. I have this morning given the guard
+the bag of flour Miller left and a piece of pork and also a piece to
+Redding. The day continued fine but roads almost impassable. Evening
+the band played some.
+
+Wednesday, April 8
+
+This morning the ground was hard again. But the weather looks more for
+rain. I went out with Captain Cahoon and President Haws to look out a
+better camp ground and we concluded to move on a little farther west
+about a quarter of a mile. It took the company all day to move, it
+being almost impossible to move the loads even with tripling teams.
+About five o'clock Egan and the teams came back with fifty-seven
+bushels of corn. He had to give 21c a bushel for nearly all of it.
+Elder Kimball came over soon after to see if he could not get some of
+it. While we were talking President Pratt and his company arrived and
+reported that their teams have had no corn since yesterday morning
+neither could they get any. Heber remarked that he would say no more
+about us letting him have any although we had only enough to feed five
+ears a feed every three days, and a journey of about fifty miles before
+we can get any more with bad roads. We let Parley have one load. Heber
+came with me to our camp and handed me a letter from President Young
+requesting us all to go on which I read to the company. I felt very
+unwell again and went to bed early.
+
+Thursday, April 9
+
+This morning we concluded to pursue our journey, President Kimball and
+his company started out about seven o'clock. President Pratt started
+out with his company. Our company waited for the latter to start in
+its place till after eight o'clock and then we went on. The roads were
+very bad indeed. About noon it commenced raining heavily which made
+the roads still worse. We had calculated to go about eight miles to
+timber but after toiling till about four o'clock and having traveled
+only about five miles and our teams being entirely worn down we turned
+out of the road to a little branch of water to camp. Several of my
+teams stuck and we had to work till dark to get part of them to camp
+and two wagons we were compelled to leave over night. Quite a number
+were obliged to stay back on the prairie and Charles Hale did not come
+more than a quarter of a mile from where we started this morning. Elder
+Kimball has camped one and a half miles farther on the open prairie and
+many of his teams are yet behind. P. P. Pratt's company are here
+with us as well as George Miller's company except those behind on the
+prairie. It continued to rain very heavily until night. We could not
+make a fire and had little for supper, our provisions being in one of
+the wagons back. This is the most severe time we have had but yet the
+camp seems in good spirits.
+
+Friday, April 10
+
+The weather is yet very wet and gloomy. I spent the morning talking to
+Margaret. At seven o'clock a gale struck up and blew our tents over.
+We then concluded to move a few rods lower out of the wind. Before we
+got moved the wind moved to the west and it grew very cold. Our teams
+are gone back to fetch some of the wagons left last night. It rains and
+blows very badly and is very severe on our women and teams. Margaret
+and Lidia are out all the time and continually wetting both feet and
+all over. We expect Robert Burton's, one of Peck's, Peart's and my
+wagons in tonight. One of mine was fetched early in the morning. Our
+teams fare hard with wet and cold, having very little corn.
+
+Saturday, April 11
+
+This morning rode with Egan to help to get Brother Peart's wagon out of
+the slough. It took five yoke of oxen and twelve men to draw it out.
+The roads are yet very bad but it is fair and very cold. We sent twelve
+yoke of oxen to bring up Peck's and Charles Hale's wagon. They got in
+late at night.
+
+Sunday, April 12
+
+This morning before I got up, P. P. Pratt called and said that
+President Young wants the council to meet at Heber's camp at ten
+o'clock. I started out with Captain Egan on foot and arrived in
+season. Had some conversation with Ellen Sanders Kimball and then
+went to council. It was decided to change our route and take a more
+northern one to avoid the settlements. We will go to Grand River and
+there enclose a space of land about two miles square and put up some
+twenty log houses for a resting place for the companies. A company
+starts out in a day or two to seek out the location amongst whom are
+the President, Heber and others of the twelve. A company will also be
+sent west to Judge Miller's to go to work for feed, etc. After council
+I took dinner with Heber, the President being with us. I then wrote a
+letter to the trustees and returned with Captain Egan to our camp and
+soon after went to bed. The day has been fine but cold.
+
+Monday, April 13
+
+Finished my letter to Diantha and then went over to Peck's blacksmith
+shop. We had concluded not to leave till morning. While there a message
+arrived saying that Haws has sent eight yoke of cattle to help us on.
+We then concluded to start forthwith, being noon. But although we had
+so many extra teams, we had to leave three wagons in camp over night.
+Four of my folks walked all the way but still it was hard for me to get
+along. Keller had to stay back over night. I arrived at Locust Creek,
+being about four miles journey, about six o'clock and sent the cattle
+back for Peck and Steven Hales but they did not return till morning.
+In the evening the band played some. James broke his wagon tongue. We
+camped a little north of President Heber's camp.
+
+Tuesday, April 14
+
+The weather is again very fine. Because some of the wagons did not
+come, Egan and I concluded to go and meet them and not start farther
+until tomorrow. We met the teams close by and then took a northern
+course a hunting. We saw only squirrels and I got five of them. About
+noon we returned and found the camp mostly gone. Orders had come from
+the President for the whole to move to his camp today. Charles Terry
+and Henry were gone a hunting which detained me till about three
+o'clock. James and I then started with the four wagons. They overtook
+us when we had got about one half mile. We found the road very bad and
+had to double teams, our horses being so badly worn down. Charles Terry
+broke a wagon tongue.
+
+Wednesday, April 15
+
+Last night I got up to watch, there being no guard. The cattle and
+horses breaking into the tents and wagons. I tarried up then called S.
+Hales and Kimball. This morning Ellen Kimball came to me and wishes me
+much joy. She said Diantha has a son. I told her I was afraid it was
+not so, but she said Brother Pond had received a letter. I went over
+to Pond's and he read that she had a fine fat boy on the 30th ult.,
+but she was very sick with ague and mumps. Truly I feel to rejoice at
+this intelligence but feel sorry to hear of her sickness. Spent the day
+chiefly reading. In the afternoon President Young came over and found
+some fault about our wagons, etc. In the evening the band played and
+after we dismissed the following persons retired to my tent to have a
+social christening, viz. William Pitt, Hutchinson, Smithies, Kay, Egan,
+Duzett, Redding, William Cahoon, James Clayton and Charles A. Terry and
+myself. We had a very pleasant time playing and singing until about
+twelve o'clock and drank health to my son. We named him William Adriel
+Benoni Clayton. The weather has been fine but rains a little tonight.
+Henry Terry's horses are missing and have been hunted today but not
+found. This morning I composed a new song--"All is well." I feel
+to thank my heavenly father for my boy and pray that he will spare and
+preserve his life and that of his mother and so order it so that we
+may soon meet again. O Lord bless thine handmaid and fill her with thy
+spirit, make her healthy that her life may be prolonged and that we
+may live upon the earth and honor the cause of truth. In the evening I
+asked the President if he would not suffer me to send for Diantha. He
+consented and said we would send when we got to Grand River.
+
+Thursday, April 16
+
+This morning prepared to proceed on our journey but a span of horses in
+our company in care of Henry Terry being missing we concluded not to
+start. I sent out three men to hunt them. Soon after they were brought
+into camp by another person. I then sent Henry Terry to hunt for the
+men but it was after two o'clock before they returned. We fed a little
+corn and then started. The company is far ahead of us. We traveled very
+slowly our teams were so weak. However, we soon came into sight of the
+camp but it was six o'clock before we got there, having traveled about
+seven miles. The camp was formed on a beautiful prairie, President
+Young's camp being on a little eminence. President Kimball's about
+three quarters of a mile north of his and ours about a quarter of a
+mile east. There is some little grass for our cattle here, but little.
+We sent those of our company about a mile southeast and had a guard
+over them through the night. President Haws, Captains Egan and Kay and
+Jackson Redding went out a hunting. George Hale's cattle were so worn
+down that they could not get along and when within about a mile of
+camp about fifteen of the brethren went to help. They took a rope and
+fixed it on the wagon, loosed the cattle and brought it in themselves,
+singing all the way. At night the band played and then I retired to bed.
+
+Friday, April 17
+
+This morning very fine. Some of the camp started very early on the way.
+I was ready about eight o'clock but was detained on account of Captain
+Haws, Egan and others having gone hunting. I left Margaret to drive my
+team and sent them on and I drove the cattle on foot. We formed our
+encampment on a high dry place.
+
+Sunday, April 19
+
+While the rest are gone to meeting I turned to unpacking and took an
+inventory of church property. It took till about four o'clock to get
+through. Daniel Spencer's company had arrived about five o'clock.
+Porter Rockwell and Edwin Cutler arrived with the mail. Received a
+letter from Diantha confirming the birth of my son, also a letter from
+A. W. Babbit on some business. Went to see the President to show
+him the inventory but could not find him. About dark he sent for me and
+I went again but he was gone and I did not see him. My mare got in a
+mud hole last night and is very badly strained. Evening went to council
+and read many letters and wrote one to Elder Hyde.
+
+Monday, April 20
+
+At nine o'clock went to council. Had to read some letters and several
+pieces from papers. A report was read of all those who are able to fit
+themselves for the mountains. A law was made on motion of President
+Young that any person who interrupts the council hereafter by talking
+or otherwise, shall be deprived the privilege of the council till
+the council see proper to admit him. The public teams being brought
+together, the bishops took a list of them to be disposed of at Grand
+River. After council I went to work to assort the articles to be sold,
+etc. Wrote to Diantha.
+
+Tuesday, April 21
+
+This morning the main body of the camp are gone, but I am obliged
+to tarry and pack up the public goods again and re-load my wagons.
+I weighed most of our loads and it took until night to get through.
+Charles Terry's horse and one of mine are unable to drag any.
+
+Wednesday, April 22
+
+I had intended to start early this morning but our horses were away
+which detained us till nearly nine o'clock. About that time we started
+and traveled slowly about four and a half miles. We then stopped at
+11:30 and thought we would rest our teams and get them cooled off.
+The sun was very warm and they sweat considerably. Word came that
+O. P. Rockwell was on his way and would call for letters. We
+intended to wait until he came. I wrote a short letter to A. W.
+Babbit and one to father but Porter failed to call, and at two o'clock
+we started again. We traveled until about three o'clock when we passed
+Orson Pratt who had concluded to stay a piece east of where the camp
+had tarried last night. He said all the grass was eaten up for several
+miles around. We concluded to go beyond the timber where the main camp
+stayed last night but tried to find grass for our teams. We started
+onward. At the creek watered our teams and rested awhile. We then went
+on about a mile and a half and found good grass and much of it. We at
+once concluded to tarry there. We had put a little wood into our wagons
+to cook with. We arrived on the ground about six o'clock and then got
+the best camp ground we have had for some time.
+
+Three of our teams were behind when we arrived. Horlick got in about
+a half an hour after us and then afterwards Swap and Jones arrived at
+7:30. We are all comfortable but very tired, having traveled about ten
+miles. My wife Ruth walked all the way and myself also. The rest walked
+by turns. We have seen many rattlesnakes today. The weather is very
+fine.
+
+Thursday, April 23
+
+This last night has been very stormy with heavy thunder, hail, rain
+and wind. The thunder and lightning was very loud and the rain fell in
+torrents. The weather continues cold and cloudy with some fine showers.
+There appears some heavy rain in the east and north. Grass looks green
+and the cattle have filled themselves well. We started about ten
+o'clock and soon found that last night's rain had made the roads much
+worse. After traveling about four miles we stopped to graze our teams,
+being one o'clock. While resting Elders Taylor and Orson Pratt passed
+on horseback. At three o'clock we started again and about four came to
+the President's camp. He was just returning from an exploring tour to
+find out better roads. His camp was on the east of a piece of timber.
+He gave orders to move to the other side of the timber about a mile
+from where he then was. We concluded to move on and finally camped on
+the next ridge southwest of his. Our teams are tired and there is not
+much grass. A number of the horses have been bitten by rattlesnakes
+and one is dead. There are a great number of these snakes on these
+prairies. The President says the road to the next timber is all ridges
+and hollows and will be hard on teams. We got camped about 5:30 p.m.,
+and before we got fixed a thunder storm came on with heavy rain but it
+was soon over and the evening afterwards was fine.
+
+Friday, April 24
+
+This morning the President's company made a bridge over a creek and
+started again on their journey. Four of my horses were missing and
+I sent men to hunt them and went myself. They were found about ten
+o'clock. We tarried until about twelve to rest and then started. We
+went about two miles and stayed until four o'clock to graze our teams
+and then went on again and about six o'clock got to timber. I went to
+hunt a camping spot with Egan. We saw some women who told us Grand
+River was only a mile ahead and that the other companies were required
+to go down there. We started and soon arrived at the main body of the
+camp. We formed on the south side of the camp. The ground here is rich,
+timber good, and the prospects good for heavy crops. Here we calculated
+to tarry a while, fence in a piece of land and those who are not
+prepared to go through to tarry and raise crops. Wild onions grow in
+abundance. The weather has been fine today. Evening those of the band
+who are here went to Bishop Miller's tent and played for the President
+and a Mr. Bryant who lives about thirty miles from here. Pitt, George,
+Charles and Steven Hales and William F. Cahoon are way back as yet as
+well as Heber's company.
+
+Saturday, April 25
+
+This morning started by daybreak fishing. About 7:30 the President
+sent for me. I came back but he was gone. President Haws is regulating
+the company to watch our teams and also go to making rails, etc. The
+morning is fine. About nine o'clock Kendall, one of my teamsters,
+brought one of the horses he drives into camp which had been bitten by
+a rattlesnake. His nose had begun to swell badly. We got some spirits
+of turpentine and bathed the wound, washed his face in salt and water
+and gave him some snakes master root boiled in milk. He yet seems very
+sick. Our men have made a pen for the cattle at night. I feel quite
+unwell today. Spent the day chiefly reading. Evening Kennedy came to
+look at our horse and says they have given sufficient of the master
+root to kill four well horses. The horse looks very sick and is already
+scarcely able to stand. The band played a few tunes at night. About
+nine o'clock it rained somewhat and continued to shower through the
+night. Pitt arrived in camp this afternoon.
+
+Sunday, April 26
+
+The first news I heard this morning was that the horse was dead. This
+is a very unlucky circumstance for me for I am already very deficient
+in teams. Moreover, three of my teams leave me here, viz. Horlick,
+Chas. A. Terry and Jones with their wagons and teams. I shall then
+have about quarter teams enough to draw the loads. I have about three
+thousand pounds of church property besides my own goods. I see little
+chance of my moving from here at present. The morning was wet but it
+cleared off and continued so all day. I spent the day reading and
+writing while the rest went to meeting. Evening was sent for to go to
+council. Read a letter from O. Hyde stating that they had had an offer
+of two hundred thousand dollars for the temple. He writes of hard
+times in Nauvoo. The council selected one hundred men to make rails,
+forty-eight to build houses; twelve to dig wells; ten to build a bridge
+and the rest to go to farming.
+
+Steven Markham, C. C. Rich, L. C. Wilson, James Pace to
+oversee the rail cutting. Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, P. P.
+Pratt and Geo. A. Smith the house building. A. P. Rockwood to boss
+bridge building. President Young to boss him and the whole camp and
+Jacob Peart to boss well digging. The council decided to wait until
+morning to decide relative to selling the temple. After we adjourned I
+went into my wagon. I wrote a long letter to Diantha. It was about ten
+o'clock when I got through.
+
+Monday, April 27
+
+Rained all day. At 6:00 a.m., went to meeting. The men were divided out
+to work and commenced operations and had to quit on account of rain.
+After breakfast went to council, when it was voted to sell the temple,
+signifying as to the reason, it will be more likely to be preserved.
+It is as lawful to sell it to help the poor saints as to sell our
+inheritance. We do it because we are compelled to do it. I was ordered
+to write an answer to Elder Hyde's letter which I did, saying finally,
+if the temple was sold, $25,000 must be sent for the benefit of the
+camp. The balance to be left at the disposal of elder Hyde, Woodruff
+and the trustees and to be appropriated to help away those who have
+labored hard to build the temple and the faithful poor of the saints.
+Spent the balance of the day packing up china and crockery to be sent
+by Egan.
+
+Tuesday, April 28
+
+Weather very wet. Moved up on higher ground. Spent the morning
+unpacking chests for files and supplies. Afternoon unloading wagon
+to send a-trading. The weather very wet until night. President Young
+called over and said we had better not send Egan until the weather
+settles. The quadrille band have gone to give concerts in the Platte.
+They had to draw their wagons across the river by ropes the water was
+so high.
+
+Wednesday, April 29
+
+It still continues to rain and the ground is getting quite soft and
+muddy. Spent the day setting men to fixing yokes and bows. Walked out
+about a mile to the bluff west of us. It ceased raining about eleven
+o'clock and continued fair through the day.
+
+Thursday, April 30
+
+Unpacking and re-packing chests all the day. It continues to rain more
+or less and the weather looks bad. Ruth is quite unwell.
+
+
+
+May 1846
+
+Friday, May 1
+
+This month brings the damp wet weather. Chas. Shumway and George
+Langley start for George Herring this morning being instructed to bring
+him on to Council Bluffs. Spent the day preparing for Egan to start
+trading. He has gone with Jackson Redding and has taken $288.00 of
+church property besides two span of horses and harness and near $60.00
+of mine. Afternoon packing chests, etc. The weather finer and fairer.
+
+Saturday, May 2
+
+The day is fine. Preparing some for Horlick's return to Nauvoo on
+Monday. Wrote to Diantha. Selling shoes.
+
+Sunday, May 3
+
+The morning fair, windy and cloudy, southeast wind. Spent the morning
+making a list of all the company who have made their reports, also
+fixing tents. At ten o'clock went to meeting. O. Spencer talked a while
+and was followed by President Young who exhorted the camp to diligence
+in getting in crops for that will be our salvation the next winter. He
+said no company should start from here until the south field was made
+and some houses built. It commenced raining as the meeting closed and
+about three o'clock a thunder storm came on which lasted till near five
+o'clock. I spent the afternoon reading. Soon after five it cleared off
+some and the sun shone again. While at supper President Young called
+and stated that he wished that I should go to council with him. I
+started and the council met opposite his tent. It was decided that his
+fifty build the bridge tomorrow and all the rest to make rails and also
+that Sherwood and Orson Pratt go about twenty-five or thirty miles
+southwest to seek out another section.
+
+Monday, May 4
+
+Finished my letter to Diantha and sent it by John Richards. Horlick has
+concluded to tarry till my wagons are fixed. I spent the day examining
+my flour and crackers and helping to fix the tent as considerable of
+my crackers and flour are damaged on account of having poor wagons.
+I dreamed last night that I saw Diantha and her babe. Her babe was
+dressed in white and appeared to be lying down with its eyes closed.
+She was bent over it apparently in sorrow. When I went to her she flew
+to me earnestly but the babe seemed to be kept still and asleep, and I
+awoke. This dream has troubled me considerably. Evening met the clerks
+of 50's in my tent and instructed them how to make their reports, etc.
+
+Tuesday, May 5
+
+The weather very fine. I spent the day preparing to enter the reports
+on the record. Went over to J. D. Lee's and learned that some of
+the clerks had been to the President and told him that I had ordered
+that they should include in their reports each wife a man has. I did
+not do any such thing, only requested each name should be in full
+according to the order of a previous council. The President said it
+did not matter about the names being in full but I think in after days
+it will prove it does. Dr. Richards thinks as I do. The President,
+I understand, appeared quite angry. Many of the band are entirely
+destitute of provisions and my flour is so nearly down I have concluded
+to eat biscuit. I have given the band considerable of my biscuit
+already. At nine o'clock fixing my wagons. Expected a storm which soon
+afterwards commenced, raining and thundering very hard. Raining most of
+the night.
+
+Wednesday, May 6
+
+Writing in the camp record. In the afternoon a storm arose emitting
+very violent wind, thunder, lightning, rain and hail. Many tents blew
+over. One of mine blew over and most of our articles were wet and some
+nearly spoiled. I have been informed that Esther Kay has been offering
+bitter complaints because they do not fare as well as some others. The
+hint was thrown at Margaret and she understood that it was for me.
+I have today let Miss Kay a pair of shoes and took down a large bag
+of biscuits and divided it amongst those who are needy. I have all
+the time let them have flour, sugar, bacon and other things as I had
+them and to hear of dissatisfaction because I will not let them have
+the last I have grieves me. I have given to the band as near as I can
+estimate, twelve hundred pounds of flour, about four or five hundred
+pounds of bacon besides much of other things. Towards evening it did
+not rain so much but continued hard after we went to bed. The wind was
+very severe, almost as bad as I ever saw it for about a half an hour.
+
+Thursday, May 7
+
+This morning it is dull, cloudy and cold. About nine o'clock commenced
+raining again. I have again given Sister Kay a quart cup full of sugar.
+I have spent the day entering reports on record.
+
+Friday, May 8
+
+The weather fine and pleasant. Spent the day fixing wagon covers and
+wagons. Andrew Cahoon arrived from Nauvoo with the mail but no letter
+from Diantha or father. He says the troops arrested O. P. Rockwell
+last Thursday evening and took him to Carthage and thence to Quincy
+jail. It is doubtful whether he will now escape their cruel vengeance.
+This morning the mare had a colt. I have felt quite unwell all day.
+Evening went to President Young's to get records to look for a deed
+from Hiram Kimball to Ira S. Miles. Searched till near ten o'clock
+but the deed is not on record. Kimball seems disposed to take all the
+advantages he can from everyone.
+
+Saturday, May 9
+
+Morning fixing wagon cover, counseling with Wm. Cahoon and then was
+called aside by the President to read two letters from Sister Harris
+and her son. Dr. Richards, John Smith and Heber were present. Afternoon
+went fishing. The weather fine and no wind.
+
+Sunday, May 10
+
+Wrote a letter to Diantha, one to trustees, one to father, one to
+Brother Burdick, one to Thos. Moore and one to John Everett. Keller
+returned with thirteen bushels of meal and 250 pounds of bacon from
+the guard, having been gone twelve days. Evening went to council to
+Heber's tent. Samuel Bent having been appointed at today's meeting to
+preside over those left on his arm, he chose David Fullmer and Ezra T.
+Benson for counselors. P. P. Pratt was advised to start as soon as
+possible for Platte River to take all who were prepared to go.
+
+Monday, May 11
+
+Morning distributing meal and bacon to the band. Afterwards the
+President, Heber, and Dr. Richards came and took some cordage.
+Afternoon weighing and loading.
+
+Tuesday, May 12
+
+Sent Keller and Corbite to the mills to try and get flour, meal and two
+cows. Weighing and packing. About nine was sent for to go to council.
+I waited about two hours before anything was done. The vote for Ezra
+T. Benson to stay as counselor for father Bent was rescinded and it
+was voted to take Aron Johnson in his place. A letter of authority
+was written for father Bent by Dr. Richards but he made me copy it,
+and afterwards when the President spoke to him to write to O. P.
+Rockwell he favored me to do that although I left three men waiting to
+weigh my loading and load my wagon. The fact is I can scarcely ever
+go to council but Dr. Richards wants me to do his writing, although I
+have more writing to do as clerk of the camp than I can possibly do.
+Moreover I have to unpack the chest and wait on all of them with the
+public goods in my charge which keeps me busy all the time. President
+Young, Heber, Dr. Richards and Bishop Whitney have all made out to get
+lumber sawed to make their wagons comfortable but I can't get enough
+to make a hind board for one of my wagons, which has none. They are
+tolerably well prepared with wagons and teams but I am here with about
+five tons of stuff and only six wagons and five yoke of oxen to take
+it. I have dealt out nearly all of my provisions and have to get more
+before I can go on. It looks as if I had to be a slave and take slave's
+fare all the journey for it has worked that way so far. After council I
+was weighing and loading, etc., until night. We had some rain at night.
+
+Wednesday, May 13
+
+The morning fair, but cloudy. Still loading my wagons and preparing to
+move. President Young and Heber's companies have gone and left me. I
+asked Jones and Terry what provisions I should have to leave them while
+they put in the crops. They concluded that 25 lbs. of corn meal each,
+and from 25 to 50 lbs. of bacon for three of them would be enough for
+twenty days. I think so, for we do not use as much meat in the same
+time in my whole family and as to 25 lbs. of corn meal each for so long
+a time, it is far more than my family can have. I have also to supply
+Horlick with provisions to take him back to Nauvoo and have kept four
+of them since they came here while they are to work for themselves. All
+this continues to weaken my hands for the journey. I have to get three
+new teamsters and also feed them while the others are living on my
+food. Markham came in the evening and said the President had sent word
+to father Bent to raise cattle enough to take my load to the new place
+tomorrow morning but I cannot go because my horses have gone to the
+mill for meal. Evening it commenced raining again and rained nearly all
+night.
+
+Thursday, May 14
+
+This morning is fair, but cloudy and like for more rain. Jones has
+concluded to leave for Nauvoo this morning and leave his son to
+plant for him. I have given him and Charles A. Terry a letter of
+recommendation. Jones asked me and said I would have to leave him some
+provisions while he put in his crops but I do not feel to do it for I
+think it is far more reasonable that the company for whom he has been
+working should supply him instead of me doing it out of the little
+provisions I have. I have left Charles and Henry Terry 50 lbs. of meal
+and 14 lbs. of bacon besides boarding them two weeks while they have
+been working on their farm. I went to see Brother Bent about the teams
+and from him learned that he could only raise three yoke of oxen and
+no wagon. I went to see Crisman who had promised two yoke and told him
+I should start in the morning then went and spent the day fixing the
+loads, etc.
+
+Friday, May 15
+
+This morning Crisman called and said he should not let his cattle go
+until Brother Miller returned. I then concluded to take what teams I
+had and take my wagons and go on a few miles. I borrowed two yoke of
+oxen from Sister Kay and started. We got the wagons over the river and
+on the bluff about a mile and then stopped to let the teams feed. I
+walked on and met Brothers Miller, Pitt, Kay, and Hutchinson with a
+large drove of cows and cattle. I told Brother Miller my situation and
+the request of the President but I could get no satisfaction. We moved
+on with half of the wagons and I selected a spot over a quarter of a
+mile from timber. They then went back for the other wagons and got them
+all up about six o'clock. Reddings have come here also, and Sister Egan
+with one or two others.
+
+Saturday, May 16
+
+This morning is fine but the weather doesn't look like being fair long.
+I have concluded to send two wagons through and wait until the teams
+return before I can move farther. Swap and Conrad are gone with all the
+teams I have and I have sent A. Johnson's cattle back because they were
+useless unless I could have more. The day was very warm. I spent the
+day mostly reading. Afternoon Duzett, Hutchinson and Pitt arrived with
+their wagons.
+
+Sunday, May 17
+
+Spent the day mostly reading. Weather very warm. Afternoon Bishop
+Miller's company passed but he did not leave me any cattle although he
+has plenty and many cows. This agrees with his course, for from about
+two months before we left Nauvoo to the present, he has done nothing
+but for himself.
+
+Monday, May 18
+
+Morning went on the road about two miles to see if I could meet Keller
+and Corbitt. It rained and thundered some and continued cloudy through
+the day.
+
+Tuesday, May 19
+
+Spent the morning reading, afterwards went fishing. Some teams returned
+from camp and said that some from Nauvoo had arrived there which
+started two weeks ago last Saturday and that Elder Hyde had advised all
+the saints to move over the river as fast as possible from Nauvoo, and
+they have their ferry boats constantly employed. A number are already
+on their way here.
+
+Wednesday, May 20
+
+This morning is very rainy and cold. Spun twenty yards of fish line
+and tied on eleven hooks. Swap and Conrad returned soon after eleven
+o'clock. They say the camp is about thirty miles ahead. They confirm
+the report of some having arrived from Nauvoo and say they were told
+that my father is on his way here. The roads are lined with teams,
+etc., on the other road north of this. Horlick came this afternoon for
+more victuals. Although he is a good wagon maker and carpenter, he is
+either unwilling to work or the camp at the farms is unwilling to board
+him for his work which I hardly believe. It seems as though teamsters
+are resolved to live on me till they eat all I have and I now lack
+about three thousand lbs. of provisions to proceed with. I can learn of
+no one who has fed his teamsters as long as I have after they stopped
+teaming and moreover, the teamsters started with church property but I
+have sustained them out of my own provisions. Towards evening it was
+fair but still threatens to rain again. I cannot yet learn a word from
+Diantha but think she must be on her way. My family is yet in good
+health except Margaret who looks sick but doesn't complain.
+
+Thursday, May 21
+
+Continued raining this morning but about noon it began to be fine.
+About five o'clock a heavy thunder storm came up and it started raining
+heavily. Storm after storm kept coming far into the night. Wilham F.
+Gaboon called on his way up between the two companies. He wanted some
+salt but I had none for him.
+
+Friday, May 22
+
+This morning fine but cloudy, ground wet and soft. Wrote some in the
+camp record. About nine o'clock started on the road to look for a
+good camp ground. James started at the same time on horseback to see
+if he could meet Keller. I went about three miles and waited till he
+returned but no news from Keller. I concluded to move my camp about
+three miles and sent James back to load up and come on. I waited until
+they came. It was after five o'clock before they came up, the loads
+being heavy and the teams weak, the loads being too heavy for them. We
+are now camped on a very pleasant spot not far from timber. We have
+camped near the summit of a ridge where we can see a long way on both
+the roads leading to Miller's mill and to the next camp. Soon after we
+arrived Horace Whitney passed. I sent word to the President to send me
+more teams. I told Horlick we could not board him any longer and gave
+him a line to father asking him to board him until he returns. Have
+borrowed some meal from Edward Martin to get along. If Keller doesn't
+come soon we shall have to obtain something to eat somewhere or go
+short. We have nothing left to eat but some corn, and being short of
+milk we can not cook it to our advantage. James and I were consulting
+just at dusk as to the wisdom of one of us starting out to try and meet
+Keller and Corbitt or see if we could learn something of them. We both
+felt positive they had lost their horses. While we were talking we
+saw Keller and Horlick riding up from the first farm. From Keller we
+learned they had got horses and loads and were coming on the other road
+and would wait till we came up to meet them if we thought best. He said
+the guard had all returned and were with the wagons. This was joyful
+news to us and I felt my heart much relieved.
+
+Saturday, May 23
+
+James started out early to meet the wagons. After breakfast we started
+on the road and while standing Keller came up and said it was about
+four and a half miles to where the other road joins the main road. I
+started ahead on foot and after traveling about three miles came up to
+the teams where they had waited on the road. When I got up the guard
+seemed pleased to see me. Captain Allen had bought about thirty-six
+bushels of meal and 200 lbs. of bacon. They would not receive any
+pay for it. They have been faithful and diligent and have done much.
+There is yet $12.00 due them from the meal and they are determined
+I shall have that too. When my teams came up we put the meal in the
+wagons and started on. We went about a mile farther to Peter's Bridge
+where we concluded to camp for the night. We arranged our loading and
+I concluded to let Brother Allen have the wagon and team in his hands
+which is church property to send back to Nauvoo for his family. The
+guard made out a list of provisions which they wished me to leave them
+which was indeed very little. I gave them four pairs of shoes and
+probably three bushels of meal which is all the remuneration they would
+accept for all they had brought. They seemed well satisfied.
+
+Sunday, May 24
+
+This morning I gave certificates of discharge to A. Keller, John
+Horlick, Orville Allen, M. A. Dodge, Tollman, Starks, Mecham,
+Bartlet and P. R. Wright. Keller and Horlick started immediately
+for Nauvoo and Wright and Dodge soon after. I concluded to move on
+about two miles to where Hutchinson and Duzett were in camp. I started
+out on foot and most of my family soon after. It soon began to rain
+and rained till I was wet through. I traveled on about four and a half
+miles but could see no camp near timber. I stopped to rest at a post
+put up by Stewart where the Raccoon fork led off. While there Josiah
+Arnold passed on his way to Miller's. From him I learned that there
+was a camp ground about a half a mile farther. I went on and waited.
+Before any of the wagons arrived James came up. Soon after news arrived
+that Swap had broke his wagon tongue. I sent James to help bring on
+the loads. We only started with three wagons and left three back with
+Corbitt and Martin. The teams worked hard all day and at half past nine
+the last team arrived having taken all day to travel about five miles.
+
+Monday, May 25
+
+This morning I sent James and Corbitt to go and trade three horses
+and some harness for cows. About noon I started out with two wagons
+and left one and about three loads of stuff in care of two of the
+guard. After we had traveled about three miles I met a messenger from
+the camp who handed me two letters, one was from Diantha and one from
+Brother Whitaker concerning a piece of land. We went on about a mile
+and crossed a creek where we waited to rest our teams. When I read
+Diantha's letter it gave me painful feelings to hear of her situation.
+After resting about an hour we went on about four miles farther and
+camped near Father Baker's camp on a creek. It was night before we
+got supper over. I found several men going back to Nauvoo for their
+families.
+
+Tuesday, May 26
+
+Wrote an answer to Whitaker's letter and also one to Diantha. We
+started on about eight o'clock and found the road bad and many bad
+creeks where the bridges had been washed away. After traveling two
+miles one of my wagons loaded with corn meal was upset in a hole. But
+after about an hour's labor we got the loading in. The wagon was not
+much damaged. We proceeded about three miles farther and met two men
+with six yoke of oxen which President Young had sent to meet us. This
+was a great relief to us for we saw that we could not get to camp today
+because of our teams being so worn down. We rested our teams about an
+hour and then started on at a good pace. We found several more very
+bad creeks to pass but we did not have much difficulty. Duzett and
+myself drove the cows. Edward Martin drove his horses. About sundown
+we arrived in camp, having traveled about thirteen miles. This place
+is called Mt. Pisgah and is a very beautiful situation, the prairie
+rolling and rich, skirted with beautiful groves of timber on the main
+fork of the Grand river. Soon after we arrived Elder Kimball came
+to welcome us to camp and then came Elder Richards and family and
+President Young who all seemed glad to see us in camp.
+
+Wednesday, May 27
+
+This morning my horses and one cow and several of the oxen are missing.
+I went to see Bishop Whitney about getting teams to send back for the
+loads remaining but could get no satisfaction from him. I went back
+and unloaded two wagons on the ground and about the same time saw the
+President who said he would send for them. Elder Kimball sent one
+wagon and the President sent two. President Young said they intended
+to take the church property in their wagons and take it on to Council
+Bluffs but I must go with them and leave James and Corbitt and Egan to
+bring on the wagons they have, etc. I cannot think they understand my
+situation in regard to the teams or they would make some definite move
+about it. They intend to start in a day or two and I tried to fix the
+wagons in good order but had no chance to get even one fixed. Spent the
+day fixing up my tent and had to get a new pole. Heber took my other
+one. Afternoon it commenced gathering for a storm and we had barely
+time to get the tent up and the things under it before it began to rain
+and continued till I went to sleep. George Herring and Shumway arrived
+here last night. I spoke with them today.
+
+Thursday, May 28
+
+The morning dull and foggy, ground wet, etc. Went fishing some. Evening
+played with Hutchinson and Pitt. All my oxen, horses and the cow were
+found. I went out this morning hunting for them on foot. Evening
+raining.
+
+Friday, May 29
+
+The weather fine, cool, and windy. Talked with Heber some. He says I
+shall have teams. One of my wagons came in this morning.
+
+Saturday, May 30
+
+Went and borrowed a robe and ornaments from Aaron Farr then rode
+with Dr. Richards about three miles on the prairie. There were five
+others and among them President Young. Two tents were brought and
+we fixed them up and then met and clothed. There were President
+Young, P. P. Pratt, J. Taylor, Geo. A. Smith, A. Lyman, John
+Smith, N. K. Whitney, D. Spencer, O. Spencer, C. C. Rich,
+E. T. Benson, Wm. Huntington and myself. Clothed and having
+offered up the signs, offered up prayer, Heber C. Kimball being mouth.
+We then conversed awhile and appeared again, Geo. A. Smith being
+mouth--A. P. Rockwood and Wm. Kimball were guarding the tent.
+Prayers were offered that we might be delivered from our enemies and
+have teams to go on our journey, etc. About two o'clock we returned to
+camp. Many of the teams were coming in and among the rest, the teams
+sent back for my loading which all arrived tonight.
+
+Sunday, May 31
+
+Having heard that Egan was near I started out to meet him. The morning
+was fine but about eleven o'clock it began to thunder. I went about
+two miles and before I got back without seeing Egan it rained heavily.
+I was wet through. I called at the meeting while President Young was
+speaking. It rained nearly all the afternoon. Noal Richards died.
+
+
+
+June 1846
+
+Monday, June 1
+
+Was wet in the morning and windy all day. The council got me four
+wagons and seven yoke of oxen to take church property.
+
+Tuesday, June 2
+
+Still windy but fair. President Young has again stated I lack some
+cattle yet. Fixing my wagon, etc. Have about teams enough but lack
+teamsters.
+
+Wednesday, June 3
+
+Fixing my wagons. Concluded to start on. My teams were scattered but we
+started with what we had. We got over the river at three o'clock, one
+yoke of cattle still missing. I sent the men hunting for them but they
+were not found.
+
+Thursday, June 4
+
+Again sent the men hunting cattle. The day was very cold and windy,
+almost as cold as winter. I spent the day fixing a wagon for Diantha
+expecting her on in about two weeks. Lucy Walker called in this
+afternoon and expressed sorrow on account of the treatment of Heber's
+family toward her. Amos Fielding called on his way to the President's
+camp. Towards evening it rained and there was one of the most beautiful
+rainbows I ever saw in my life. We could see its brilliant reflection
+within a few rods of us. In the evening Douzett came for his cow which
+had tarried with ours. He concluded to stay over night. My teamsters
+returned without finding the cattle.
+
+Friday, June 5
+
+Sent all the men except James Douglas to hunt the cattle. About nine
+o'clock my adopted son Thomas Corbich returned with them. I then waited
+till two o'clock for the men to return, three of them being still
+absent. I have now eleven wagons, sixteen yoke of oxen, six cows,
+five horses, and six teamsters, besides my brother James, whose names
+are Conrad Neil, Levi N. Kendall, James Douglas, Milton F. Bartlett,
+Willard Smith, and A. E. Hinkel, four of the latter are new to me
+and do not seem to know much about teaming. At two o'clock I concluded
+to start on and after about an hour's preparation we started. The men
+took two teams each. I drove the cows on foot. The roads are a great
+deal better. We traveled about six miles and camped on a hill beyond
+nice timber. Pitt is here and Brother Taylor's camp. Amos called on his
+way back to England. He stayed and conversed a while. I will here say
+that the oxen put in by Brothers Olive and Rich to take church property
+are very poor and some of them scarcely of any use. We arrived here
+about half past six o'clock. The day has been cold, fine and fair.
+
+Saturday, June 6
+
+The morning very fine. We started out at eight o'clock; Pitt joined
+with us. I went on foot to drive the cows. About ten o'clock we had a
+little rain. After traveling about seven miles we arrived at a piece
+of timber where the patriarch John Smith was resting. We concluded to
+rest our teams here and stopped at half past eleven. At one o'clock we
+started again and soon after had a heavy thunder shower. I was about
+a mile ahead of the wagons and having no shelter was soon completely
+drenched with rain. It got very cold while raining. As soon as the
+wagons came up we stopped till the shower was over which did not last
+long. We then pursued our journey and at six o'clock camped on the open
+prairie a long way from timber, having traveled about sixteen miles.
+After the shower the day was fine. I was very tired and wet and after
+eating a little went to bed. Vilate Ruth is weaning from the breast
+today which makes her cry.
+
+Sunday, June 7
+
+Inasmuch as we were not near timber we concluded to travel on till we
+found some. We started at eight o'clock and traveled till two, being
+about nine miles, when we came to a little grove of timber and just
+beyond a bad bottom of prairies. I concluded to pass this and camp on
+the adjoining ridge. I drove the cows all day on foot. My feet were
+sore and blistered. The day was very fine. Sometime after we arrived
+Father John Smith came and camped just below us.
+
+Monday, June 8
+
+The weather fine. Traveled about ten miles, the roads being very hilly
+and uneven. We camped on a bottom near timber. I went fishing and had
+good success. I drove the cows till noon then rode with family.
+
+Tuesday, June 9
+
+Weather fine and hot. Went fishing at daybreak with James and had
+good luck. At nine we went on. I rode again. Afternoon three Indians
+overtook us and begged some bread. We camped on a bottom beside Coleman
+and others, having traveled about twelve miles. Two Indians are here
+and we have learned their camp is only three miles from us. President
+Young left word to go in companies from here to avoid being plundered
+by the Indians. We had our cattle tied up and a guard over them through
+the night.
+
+Wednesday, June 10
+
+Went fishing at daybreak and caught thirty-six. Weather hot. We started
+about nine o'clock and found the roads good but over hills and ravines
+all the day. At six o'clock we camped in sight of the Pottawattamie
+Indian village. When about two miles from it they discovered us coming
+and we soon saw a number of them riding towards us. Some had bells
+on their horses which frightened our horses and cattle. James and I
+took the horses and let the others take the oxen the best way they
+could. Some of the Indians followed our wagons and inquired often for
+whiskey. We had to pass some timber and a river before we arrived at
+their village which is situated on a very beautiful ridge skirted
+by timber and beautiful rolling prairie. Before we arrived at the
+timber it seemed that the whole village had turned out, men, women,
+and children, some on horses and many on foot. Their musicians came
+and played while we passed them. They seemed to escort our wagons and
+asked if we were Mormons. When we told them we were they seemed highly
+pleased. It took us some time to cross the bridge over the river and
+then we were perfectly surrounded by Indians apparently from curiosity
+and friendship. They watched us cross the bridge and others followed
+on with us. The boys seemed to learn the words our teamsters used to
+drive the cattle and would run and in their way help to drive. They
+manifested every feeling of friendship and nothing unkind or unfriendly
+transpired. Soon after we passed the bridge we were met by Jas. W.
+Cummings and the brethren from Shariton Ford with John L. Butler to
+bring Emmet's company to meet us. The cattle have been with Emmet's
+company from the time they left Nauvoo. The road leads within about
+two hundred yards of the Indians and I wanted to go about two miles
+farther to save the necessity of having a guard but soon after we left
+the village we had to ford a stream which was deep and bad to cross.
+I then concluded to camp on the ridge above the ford and in sight
+of the village, being about a half or three quarters of a mile from
+them. Many of them followed us, men, women and children and watched
+all our movements but about dark all departed in peace. They seemed
+well pleased with their visit. They certainly showed every mark of
+friendship and kindness imaginable and treated us as brothers. We
+learned that the chief's daughter was buried today. We have traveled
+about fifteen miles. From Cummings we learned that Emmet had left his
+things belonging to the company with him. Part of the company has
+crossed at St. Louis and are now on the line here. The agent of the
+U. S. refuses to let them pass. The other part of the company are
+thirty miles below the bluffs expecting us to cross there.
+
+Thursday, June 11
+
+Many of the Indians again came to the camp with the same friendly
+feeling. Some squaws came to trade. We started soon after nine, the
+weather being very hot. We traveled over about five miles of very
+uneven road. The rest was good. We had to travel till late before we
+came to water. We camped on a small creek where Coleman and Tanner were
+camped, having traveled about fourteen miles.
+
+Friday, June 12
+
+Traveled about three miles, the weather being very hot. We camped on
+a beautiful ridge where the main body had evidently left but little
+before, beside a large rapid stream. I concluded to stay here until
+Monday to rest our teams and give their shoulders a chance to heal,
+several of which were very sore.
+
+Saturday, June 13
+
+Fixing a wagon, etc. The weather very hot. Evening killed one of our
+cows. The mosquitoes here began to be very troublesome, there being so
+many of them and so bloodthirsty.
+
+Sunday, June 14
+
+The weather very hot and the mosquitoes tremendously bad. This morning
+I weighed bread for each man at the rate of a half a pound a day.
+They seem very much dissatisfied and growl to each other very much. I
+weighed for my family of ten as much as I weighed for six teamsters.
+They were dissatisfied but we had some left. They have hitherto had
+all they wanted three times a day and above this have eaten up a bag
+of crackers unknown to me which I had reserved for the mountains.
+The mosquitoes being so bad, I concluded to go on a little piece. We
+started at 1:00 p.m. and traveled until four when we arrived at a small
+clear stream having traveled about six miles. I camped here and in the
+evening told the men a part of what I thought of their conduct.
+
+Monday, June 15
+
+The morning cooler but mosquitoes bad. Our horses were missing and
+we were detained till ten o'clock before we could start. The horses
+had gone back to where we left yesterday. We traveled till sundown
+before we came to water, being about twelve miles. We camped near to
+C. L. Whitney.
+
+Tuesday, June 16
+
+Started at 7:30 and traveled about twelve miles when we came in sight
+of the Missouri river and the main camp about five miles farther. We
+soon learned that some of the camp were coming back to find water.
+There being no water where we were, we moved back about two miles to a
+spring and there camped expecting to stay until we should learn what to
+do.
+
+Wednesday, June 17
+
+This morning Kay and Duzett rode up and said they were anxiously
+expecting us at the camp and wanted us to go immediately. I went to
+the camp with them to look out a place while my men yoked up and
+brought the wagons. When I arrived I saw Heber. He seemed pleased to
+see me and went with me to look out a place to camp. I fixed a spot
+between President Young's camp and Bishop Miller's. Heber said the
+twelve had an invitation to go to the village to the agent's to dinner
+and they wanted the band to go with them. I went back to meet the
+wagons which had been detained on account of some of the cattle being
+missing. As soon as my wagons arrived I got ready and started in Heber
+s carriage with Heber, Bishop Whitney, and Smithies. Edward Martin,
+Pitt, Hutchinsoo, Kay and Duzett rode in the other carriage. When we
+arrived at Mr. Mitchell's, the agent's place, we were introduced to him
+one by one. We then played and Kay sang until about five o'clock when
+we returned. This village is situated but a little distance from the
+river, probably fifty rods. It is composed of twelve or fifteen blocks,
+houses without glass in the windows, and is the noted place where the
+Lamanites for years held their council. The inhabitants are composed of
+Lamanites, half breeds and a few white folks. I had an introduction to
+Sarrapee an Indian trader. We arrived home just at dusk.
+
+Thursday, June 18
+
+Fixing a wagon all day. Evening went fishing. Spoke to Bishop Whitney
+about some more teams.
+
+Friday, June 19
+
+Fixing wagons and preparing to send off some things to trade. Evening
+went fishing. Went with the band to hold a concert at the village. Many
+went from the camp. The Indians and half breeds collected $10.10 and
+gave it to us and the agent Mr. Mitchel gave a dinner to all that came.
+
+Sunday, June 21
+
+At home until evening. At 5:00 met with the brethren of the camp and
+acted as clerk while they selected men to build the boat.
+
+Monday, June 22
+
+Fixing my wagons. The day was windy and cold. I was informed yesterday
+that Diantha is twenty miles back from Mt. Pisgah with her father still
+farther back. They have sent her chest on to Pisgah and she is with
+Loren. I partly made up my mind to start in the morning and bring her.
+
+Tuesday, June 23
+
+This morning I got my food ready to start after Diantha but Vilate Ruth
+seemed quite sick and I concluded not to start. We took the teams and
+went to the village to pick gooseberries but it rained nearly all the
+time we were gone. I bought a scythe and some other things and tried
+to trade a watch for a yoke of cattle. Major Mitchel offered me three
+yoke for the gold watch. We got home about 3:00. I then went and told
+the President about Mitchel's offer and he told me to sell it. It was
+so cold and wet and windy we went to bed early and soon after we got
+to bed, Heber and Dr. Richards came to my wagon with two letters from
+Diantha, one dated Nauvoo, May 17, 1846, the other Big Prairie, June
+18th. She tells that she is sent on by her father and is with Loren and
+is very anxious that I should bring her or send for her. I made up my
+mind to start tomorrow. The night was very stormy with strong winds and
+heavy rains.
+
+Wednesday, June 24
+
+The morning wet and cold. I went over to President Young and told him
+where I was going and what for. He said he would get the cattle for me.
+I also spoke to Heber and he said: "Go and prosper." At 11:00 I went
+to council and President Young, Kimball and Taylor concluded also to
+go to Pisgah after the cannon. I started at two o'clock it then being
+fair. At five o'clock I passed Father Knowlton's company thirteen miles
+from camp and at seven passed Laharpe's company and inquired of Brother
+Burgham and Freeman about Diantha but could not learn much from them.
+Brother Ezra Bickford was here on his way back to Nauvoo. He said he
+was tired from riding on horseback and asked if I would let him go with
+me to Pisgah and use his horse in the wagon. I told him to come on. I
+soon found it made a difference in the load. We went on about two miles
+and stopped at dark on the middle of the prairie near no water. After
+feeding we lay down to rest. We had several heavy showers through the
+night.
+
+Thursday, June 25
+
+This morning arose at four o'clock and moved our wagon a little to
+fresh grass to let the horses feed, they being tied to it. It is fair,
+but cloudy. We started again at 5:30 a.m., traveled till 10:00 then
+rested till 2:00 and then traveled until dark, making thirty-one miles.
+We camped just beyond the Indian village in the midst of a severe
+thunder storm. It rained most of the day and the roads were bad.
+
+Friday, June 26
+
+Did not start until after seven. Morning fair, roads bad. After
+traveling about six miles we found Horace Clark and others camped on
+one side of a small stream and Orson Spencer on the other side. The
+creek was full of water to the bank and in the deepest place about six
+feet over the bridge and a part of the bridge washed away. We tarried
+until 3:00 and then concluded to try to get over. Walter L. Davis and
+Wm. D. Huntington volunteered to help us over. We unloaded the wagon
+box for a boat, taking a few of our things over at a time. When we got
+them all over we swam the horses over, loaded up, and at 5:00 started
+again and went till near nine having traveled about sixteen miles.
+
+Saturday, June 27
+
+The day was fine and we traveled about thirty-eight miles and camped
+on the prairie about eight miles from Pisgah. During the day we passed
+some U. S. officers on their way to see President Young and the
+council. We afterwards learned that they professed to be going to the
+authorities of the church by order of the President of the United
+States to raise five hundred volunteer Mormons to defend Santa Fe, etc.
+
+Sunday, June 28
+
+At daybreak it rained again. We started at four o'clock and arrived
+at Pisgah at eight. Had some conversation with Father Huntington and
+C. C. Rich. We fed and at nine o'clock started again. We soon
+saw Brother Woodruff. He was glad to see me and we conversed together
+some time. From him I learned that Missouri had sent up a committee to
+Pisgah to search for forts and cannon, etc. He says the Missourians
+are terrified and many are moving from the back to the interior
+settlements. He also stated that we have a friend in the British
+Parliament and the British had held a private council in relation to
+the treatment of the U. S. towards us. Britain is making great
+preparations for war. They have sent ten thousand troops to Canada
+and a fleet around Cape Horn to Oregon. They are intending to arm
+the slaves of the south and have their agents in the Indian country
+trying to bring them in war to fight the U. S. After we left
+Elder Woodruff we passed on and soon met Sister Durpee and Brother
+Lott and his company. He said Diantha was back about four miles. Soon
+after we met Orville Allen and from him learned that Diantha was back
+at least twelve miles. We continued on and at two o'clock fed. We
+arrived at Father Chase's between four and five o'clock. Diantha was
+very glad to see me and burst into tears. My little boy is far beyond
+all my expectations. He is very fat and well formed and has a noble
+countenance. They are both well and I feel to thank my heavenly Father
+for his mercies to them and Father Chase and to his family and may the
+Lord bless them for it, and oh Lord, bless my family and preserve them
+forever. Bless my Diantha and my boy and preserve their lives on the
+earth to bring honor to Thy name and give us a prosperous journey back
+again is the prayer of thy servant William. Amen. At night we had a
+heavy thunder storm. It rained very heavily.
+
+Monday, June 29
+
+The morning is cool and cloudy, the ground very wet. Brother Bickford
+is gone to Nauvoo. Left Father Chase's company about 10:30 a.m. They
+kindly furnished us with bread stuffs sufficient to last us to camp. We
+arrived at Mt. Pisgah and stayed near Father Huntington's.
+
+Tuesday, June 30
+
+This morning in council with President Huntington, Rich and Benson
+until nine o'clock a.m. Took breakfast with Elder Rich and then started
+on. We passed Brothers Woodruff, and Lott and their companies about
+twelve miles from Pisgah. After traveling about twenty-six miles we
+turned onto the big prairie for the night. The weather fine and roads
+good.
+
+
+
+July 1846
+
+Wednesday, July 1
+
+P. P. Pratt passed about six o'clock. We afterwards learned that
+he was going on express to Pisgah to raise the 500 volunteers to go to
+Santa Fee. After traveling about seven miles we rested with Brother
+Weeks and ate breakfast, then went on till two o'clock and stopped to
+feed. We continued on till dark, having traveled about seventeen miles.
+
+Thursday, July 2
+
+Having lost the horses during the night I went back four miles to hunt
+them. I met someone and enquired about them, asking if he had not seen
+them. Went back to camp and ate a little and afterwards found them
+about a mile west. We started about ten o'clock and at sundown passed
+the Indian village and the stream at which we previously camped. We
+camped about two miles west of the Indian village.
+
+Friday, July 3
+
+Started early and went about four miles to a creek where we ate
+breakfast. The day very hot but we traveled about twenty-five miles.
+We met President Young, Heber Kimball, and Dr. Richards going back
+to raise volunteers. They feel that this is a good prospect for our
+deliverance and if we do not do it we are downed. We went on and camped
+near Hiram Clark and took supper with him.
+
+Saturday, July 4
+
+This morning my horses were missing and five from Clark's company
+were missing. I found them a little west of the camp and started on.
+Diantha having eaten nothing this morning I tried to buy some bread but
+could not get it till I got home. I arrived at three o'clock and found
+my little Vilate sick, the rest all well. I went over to Council at
+Captain Allen's tent.
+
+Sunday, July 5
+
+At home all day. Conrad has left and gone to Elder Hyde's. The weather
+is very hot. My traders have got back and brought twenty bushels of
+corn, but only one of wheat.
+
+Monday, July 6
+
+Spent the day fixing wagons. Day very hot. Bishop Whitney called to see
+us. They are getting over the river as fast as possible but it is slow
+work.
+
+Thursday, July 9
+
+Spent the two previous days fixing wagons and today went down to the
+river to see about crossing, etc. Took my family with me.
+
+Friday, July 10
+
+Fixing my wagons, also Saturday unpacked the dry goods wagon and
+repacked it.
+
+Sunday, July 12
+
+Went to the meeting at Elder Taylor's camp. In the evening President
+Young, Kimball and Richards returned. They requested me to go to
+Taylor's to council. I went and tarried till dark, wrote a letter to
+the Quadrille band to meet tomorrow also wrote orders for all the men
+in camp to meet.
+
+Monday, July 13
+
+Went to the general meeting and played with the band and then kept
+minutes. They got three companies of 43 each and half of a fourth
+company. All my teamsters have enlisted. I am now destitute of help.
+Edward Martin is advised to go and leave his family in my charge. I
+have still four yoke of oxen missing and I do not know where to find
+them. Last night James was seized with a fit and is quite unwell today,
+mostly insensible. Vilate Ruth is quite sick and on the whole my
+situation is rather gloomy. The meeting adjourned at five till tomorrow
+at eight, after which the company danced till dark.
+
+Tuesday, July 14
+
+I went over to meeting this morning and told the President my
+situation. He consented for me to go back to my camp to see to things.
+I came back but feel very unwell. Martin's youngest child died at 1:30
+p.m.
+
+Wednesday, July 15
+
+Went with Edward Martin to bury his child on a high bluff south of the
+camp. We buried it between two small oak trees, a little east of them,
+the babe's head to the east. After returning Heber sent word for us to
+cross the creek to the other bluff where Elder Taylor is camped. We
+got some of the cattle together and took part of the wagons over and
+then returned for the remainder. As soon as we got there a message came
+that the President wished the band to go to the village. We accordingly
+started but when we got there we found nobody there and after a little
+trading we returned home.
+
+Thursday, July 16
+
+Hunting my horses to take Diantha to see her father's folks who arrived
+yesterday. In the afternoon we started out and went about three miles
+from here. They appeared very glad to see us. We got home again at dark.
+
+Friday, July 17
+
+Went fishing.
+
+Saturday, July 18
+
+Went to the village to play with the band for the volunteers. They
+danced till near sundown when we returned home.
+
+Sunday, July 19
+
+In the wagon till evening. Sister Farr came to see us. Diantha and I
+went home with her in the evening.
+
+Monday, July 20
+
+In the morning fixing for our concert. Afternoon the band came with
+their wives and we played and danced till dark. President Young made
+some appropriate remarks exhorting the saints to prayer, etc.
+
+Tuesday, July 21
+
+This morning it rained very heavily. Went to council at Elder Pratt's
+camp. The council appointed a council of twelve to preside here, viz.
+Isaac Morley, Geo. W. Harris, James Allred, Thos. Grover, Phineas
+Richards, Herman Hyde, Wm. Peck, Andrew H. Perkins, Henry W. Miller,
+Daniel Spencer, J. H. Hales and John Murdock. I wrote a letter
+informing them of their appointment also instructing them not to let
+any pass over the river unless they could be in time to go to Grand
+Island and cut hay, to watch over the church, establish schools for the
+winter, etc. I spent the remainder of the day at the creek. I asked
+the President what I should do but could get no answer. I have not
+been able to get any satisfaction from any of the council as to what I
+should do and am totally at a loss to know whether to tarry here or go
+on. My provisions are nearly out and my teamsters all gone and nearly
+all the cattle strayed away, and no one to hunt them except James and
+Corbitt and they are sick.
+
+Wednesday, July 22
+
+Fixing a wagon for Margaret and re-loading some wagons.
+
+Thursday, July 23
+
+Unpacking church property. Found considerable of it very much damaged
+with wet. I put it out and dried it well and repacked it. Evening went
+with Diantha to see her folks.
+
+Friday, July 24
+
+Regulating the loading, etc.
+
+Saturday, July 25
+
+Bought 357 pounds of flour at $2.50 per hundred and carried it about
+three hundred yards to my wagons then spent the day fixing wagon
+covers. Evening went to Brother Farr's. About 11:00 a storm arose
+and it soon began to rain heavily and a while after blew a perfect
+hurricane. The thunder was awful and the rain poured in torrents for
+about a half an hour.
+
+Sunday, July 26
+
+This morning the tent is down, wagons drenched and everything looks
+gloomy enough. Scarcely a tent in the camp was left standing and many
+wagon covers torn. A report is circulated that a cow was killed by
+lightning. Much damage is done to wagons, provisions, etc. The cow was
+killed about 200 yards west of my wagons. There was a tent struck also
+but no persons hurt. I went to meeting and heard Benson and Taylor
+preach. Afternoon at my wagons. Evening Bishop Whitney, President Young
+and Kimball called. I made out a bill of goods for them to send east by
+Robert Pierce. They ordered me to go down to the river tomorrow.
+
+Monday, July 27
+
+Loading wagons, packing, etc., preparing to start. Last night I engaged
+Pelatiah Brown as a teamster. We started soon after noon. I drove the
+cows and James, Corbitt and Brown the teams with twelve wagons. We had
+to leave one cow four yoke of oxen and two horses on the ridge, being
+missing. We got down about six o'clock. Bishop Whitney passed and said
+I should not get over the river tomorrow and I suppose we shall have
+to wait some days. James and Corbitt are both sick and discouraged on
+account of having so little help and so many cattle, etc., to look
+after. They have a hard time of it but I can see no prospects of its
+being better.
+
+Tuesday, July 28
+
+James and Corbitt started back to hunt the cattle. I went to the
+village and received $12.00 of Larpey for the cordage I sold to Allen,
+$3.50 is yet my due. I then went and bought some flour of Tanner. While
+we were weighing it a storm arose and it rained and thundered and
+lightninged throughout the day and nearly all night. I have not seen
+more rain fall in a long time.
+
+Wednesday, July 29
+
+Got the balance of the flour making 889 lbs., most of it at $2.50 and
+200 lbs. at $2.00. Afternoon went to the village with Alice, Diantha,
+and Margaret. There saw President Young and Heber. They have just
+bought a pony and some cloth, etc., and seem to have money enough but
+there is none to buy me flour. I yet lack about a ton.
+
+Thursday, July 30
+
+At home all day. Unpacked mother's wagon and found many things wet and
+damaged.
+
+Friday, July 31
+
+Attending to wagons, cattle, etc., all day.
+
+
+
+August 1846
+
+Saturday, August 1
+
+This morning I went to the river to see how soon we could cross and
+learned there was a prospect of our crossing this evening or tomorrow
+morning. I then went back to my camp and we started with the wagons a
+few at a time. My brother James is lame in bed. Pitt is lame. Brown
+is lame and Corbitt nearly spent. About noon we got all the wagons to
+the river and Corbitt returned to take the cattle to grass. I went to
+Larpey's and got the balance of the money then went to Mitchel's to try
+to trade my music box for a cow but did not succeed.
+
+Sunday, August 2
+
+Preparing to cross the river. Pelatiah Brown went swimming all the
+forenoon and when Corbitt asked him to help with the teams he swore he
+would not if Jesus Christ would ask him. I told him if he did not feel
+like helping us he could go somewhere else, I did not want him. He went
+and I am again left without a teamster. I will here say that Brown will
+not work only when he has a mind to and during the last week when James
+and Corbitt and Pitt were all gone he would go to the river swimming
+instead of attending to the cattle and I may as well be without a
+teamster as have a man who will go away in a cramp. About noon we
+crossed three wagons over and kept to work until we had got them all
+over which took us till dark. We had to crowd our wagons together in
+the road just above the river on account of its being stopped up by
+other wagons. We could not get our cattle to grass and they have had
+none since last night, but having a few bushels of corn we gave them
+five ears a piece. After supper I went fishing with Wm. F. Cahoon and
+others until two o'clock but had very poor luck.
+
+Monday, August 3
+
+Started this morning to get our wagons on the prairie. The road is very
+narrow and bad, up steep bluffs and very muddy. It took four yoke of
+oxen to take a very light load. When we had got four of the wagons up
+eight yoke of Bishop Whitney's cattle came to help us and afterwards
+nine yoke of President Young's and Kimball's. We got to the prairie
+about noon and stopped to feed our cattle. I sent on five wagons with
+the teams sent to help us and after feeding about an hour started with
+the remainder. I drove the spare cattle and horses. We got the wagons
+to camp about six o'clock. One of President Young's oxen killed himself
+when going to drink, being so eager he pitched into the creek and broke
+his neck. When we got to camp we were all completely tired. My feet
+were sore and my limbs ached and had to go to bed. We camped on the
+north end of Heber's company. We have left nine head of cattle over the
+river yet and there is little prospect of being able to find some of
+them.
+
+Tuesday, August 4
+
+This morning Heber's company have moved on about two days journey and
+again left me here alone. I loaned C. L. Whitney three yoke of
+oxen to help him through. They are gone to find a place within thirty
+miles of here to winter. I spent the day doing little, being so unwell.
+
+Wednesday, August 5
+
+Moved down a little nearer water. There spent the day fixing Ruth's
+wagon. Corbitt has gone over the river to hunt cattle and in the
+evening returned with one yoke.
+
+Thursday, August 6
+
+Putting covers on Margaret's and mother's wagons, etc. Afternoon
+writing copy of the returns of companies.
+
+Friday, August 7
+
+Spent the forenoon writing copy of return of companies of the
+U. S. army. About noon two of Heber's teamsters came with some
+cattle to help me to the main camp. I left off writing and went to
+putting the wagons in order. While fixing a chicken coop I struck my
+forehead with a hammer which disabled me from work the remainder of the
+day.
+
+Saturday, August 8
+
+This morning we arose about three o'clock and while some took the
+cattle to graze the rest got the wagons loaded, etc., ready to start.
+We got away soon after sunrise. I rode a mule and drove the cows. We
+traveled about nine miles before we came to any water. Here we took the
+teams from the wagons to a spring about a quarter of a mile from the
+road. The cattle seemed tired but one of the teamsters said it was only
+about three miles farther and should soon be there. We concluded to go
+on without stopping to feed. But before we had proceeded far some of
+the cattle gave out, the day being very hot, and before we got to camp
+several yoke gave up entirely and were left on the road and brought
+afterwards. One of the cattle died almost as soon as they took him from
+the wagon, being about a mile from camp. Two or three others were not
+expected to live. When we arrived Heber wanted us to form on his north
+line but we could only get half of our wagons into the space left for
+the whole of them. I then moved over to the south side and formed next
+to D. Russell. We got our tent up but can have no fire until Monday.
+The cattle are so tired we will not use them. I feel about sick myself.
+Heber's camp is formed in a kind of parallelogram, each wagon camped
+in a perfect line with the others. The square in the center is about
+twenty-five rods long and fifteen rods wide.
+
+Sunday, August 9
+
+Writing copy of return of companies of U. S. army all day.
+
+Monday, August 10
+
+Attending to various business about the wagons all day.
+
+Tuesday, August 11
+
+Last night I had a severe chill and felt sick all day mostly with high
+fever. Quite unable to work.
+
+Wednesday, August 12
+
+Quite sick, very bad fever all day.
+
+Sunday, August 16
+
+Since Wednesday have scarcely even been out of bed, but kept with
+raging fever all the time. Twice Heber has rebuked my fever but it has
+returned. Through fear and persuasion of my family I have taken some
+pills and medicine given by Dr. Sprague, but seem to grow worse all the
+time. Today I have been very sick. Towards evening my folks concluded
+to get me out of the wagon into the tent where they had prepared a
+bed. Soon after I got into the tent President Young, Dr. Richards,
+G. A. Smith, Orson Pratt, Lorenzo Young and others called to
+see me. When they had been in a few moments President Young called
+O. P. Rockwell into the tent and the feelings we had on seeing him
+cannot be described. He has been in prison some time but when his trial
+came on there was no one to accuse him and the judge discharged him.
+The brethren all laid hands on me and rebuked my disease in the name of
+the Lord, President Young being mouth. I immediately felt easier and
+slept well all night being the first sleep I had had of any account for
+three days and nights.
+
+Sunday, August 23
+
+During the past week I have gained slowly and have been able to walk
+about some. I, however, feel very weak and broken down.
+
+Monday, August 24
+
+Reading some and fixing a little at my violin. Feel very little better
+but have a better appetite.
+
+Tuesday, August 25
+
+We had a thunder storm last night. I do not feel so well this morning
+but took a walk into the woods. I had a very sick day all day.
+
+Wednesday, August 26
+
+The morning very cool and cloudy. Let T. Corbitt have a pair of shoes.
+
+Thursday, August 27
+
+Diantha was taken very sick and continued for four or five days.
+
+Saturday, August 29
+
+At night I was seized with fever again and very sick.
+
+Sunday, August 30
+
+Had chill and fever, the chill held me four or five days.
+
+
+
+September 1846
+
+Thursday, September 10
+
+I still continue very weak and troubled with pain in stomach, etc.
+President Young and Dr. Richards called and brought me a letter from
+David; also said they had got me employment writing at a dollar a day
+or 3c on every hundred words copying.
+
+Saturday, September 12
+
+Still quite unwell. President Young brought me $8.00 in money, one half
+dollar bogus and soon after Dr. Richards sent me some letters to copy
+which I did.
+
+Tuesday, September 15
+
+This evening I copied a letter to Joseph F. Herring and having no one
+to send it by I took it to council myself. Before I got half way there
+my knees failed me and it was with great difficulty I got there and
+home again. When I got back to Pitt's shanty my spirit failed me for I
+was not aware of my weakness.
+
+Saturday, September 19
+
+Since Tuesday I have scarcely been out of bed, but today I feel
+somewhat better again.
+
+Sunday, September 20
+
+A little better. I have been told that President Young has virtually
+cursed all who have gone to Missouri or those who shall go hereafter.
+
+Monday, September 21
+
+This evening about ten o'clock all the men of the camp were ordered
+up armed to meet in this square forthwith. I got up and after a very
+little while quite a company of the brethren got together. President
+Hales informed them that the President had received a letter from Mr.
+Sarpey informing him that two gentlemen from Missouri had informed him
+confidentially that the Missourians had got out writs for the twelve
+and others and were coming with a large force on the west side of the
+river to attack the camp by surprise, etc. He advised the brethren to
+have their arms clean and their ammunition ready at a moment's warning,
+to pray with their families, keep dogs tied up at nights, etc., etc.
+The company was then dismissed except a guard for the camp.
+
+Tuesday, September 22
+
+This morning the brethren were ordered to meet at the springs below
+here at nine o'clock. At the sound of the drum the brethren met and
+here organized into four battalions, one of artillery, and three
+of infantry. There were about three hundred brethren present. The
+President then stated that he had received a letter from Sarpey
+informing him that two gentlemen, confidentially, from Missouri had
+informed him that the Missourians were collecting with the sheriff
+of Missouri, their head designing to attack the saints, that they
+had writs, etc., for the twelve and others. He had ordered out the
+brethren that they might be ready in case of necessity and advised
+them to organize and be prepared. Markham was elected Colonel over the
+battalions. Hosea Stout, Lieutenant Colonel over the battalions and
+over the first battalions and over the first battalions of infantry.
+John Scott was elected 1st major and major over the artillery. Henry
+Herriman 2nd major to take command of the 2nd battalion of infantry and
+John S. Gleason 3rd major over the 3rd battalion of infantry. After
+organizing the President addressed the companies and then dismissed
+them. It was advised to quit leaving and move the encampment to the
+fort on the river. A number of teams moved this afternoon.
+
+Wednesday, September 23
+
+This morning President Young and many others have moved down to the
+river. Heber told me to wait till the lots were selected and he would
+let me know when to move. My health is improving.
+
+Thursday, September 24
+
+Very cold all day. I did not feel so well. I have been told that Daniel
+H. Wells and William Cutler have arrived in camp and brought a report
+that there has been a battle fought in Nauvoo and some of the brethren
+killed.
+
+Friday, September 25
+
+I learned today that the mob had made it known that they were coming
+to drive out the "Mormons." The Governor sent an officer to raise
+volunteers to disperse the mob, but the mob learning this they came
+sooner than they had calculated. The brethren being apprised of
+the intentions of the mob prepared to meet them as well as their
+circumstances would permit. Some of the new citizens also made
+preparations to join the brethren. They made five cannon shot of an
+old steam boat shaft. They also filled some barrels with powder, old
+iron, etc., which were buried in the pass to the city which could
+be fired by a slow match but this was of no avail as some traitors
+informed the mob of it, hence they did not come into the settled part
+of the city. On Saturday the 12th inst., the mob made their appearance
+being about twelve hundred in number. The brethren and some of the
+new citizens in the whole about one hundred and sixty went to give
+them battle, but many of the new citizens and some of the brethren
+when they saw the numbers of the mob fled and left about one hundred,
+nearly all brethren, to fight the enemy. The mob had pieces of cannon.
+They met near Boscow's store on Winchester street. The cannon of the
+mob were two blocks from the brethren and the other part of rifle men
+one block from them. The mob fired a number of times into Barlow's old
+barn expecting many of the brethren were concealed there but in this
+they were disappointed, the brethren chiefly lying down on the ground
+behind some shelter and fired in that position. They fought one hour
+and twenty minutes when the mob offered terms of compromise which were
+these, that all the "Mormons" should leave the city within five days
+leaving ten families to finish the unsettled business. The brethren
+consented to this inasmuch as they had been well informed that 1,500
+more were coming to join the mob and they had nothing to expect from
+the authorities of the state. Lyman Johnson, one of the twelve, headed
+a party of the mob from Keokuk, Iowa territory. Three of the brethren
+were killed, viz. William Anderson, his son, and Norris, a blacksmith.
+Three others wounded. The mob would not own to any of their party being
+killed but one person saw them put sixteen men into one wagon and
+handled them more like dead persons than wounded. The ground where they
+stood was pretty much covered with blood, so that there is no doubt
+they had many slain or wounded. They had 150 baggage wagons. Esquire
+Wells took command of the brethren and rode to and fro during the whole
+battle without receiving injury, although the balls whistled by him on
+every side. Amos Davis fought bravely. While running across a plowed
+field he stumbled and fell on his left arm which formed a triangle with
+his head. As he fell a cannon ball passed through the angle of his
+arm between that and his head. Hiram Kimball received a slight wound
+with a musket ball on the forehead. The mob fired sixty-two shots with
+the cannon and ten rounds with the muskets making 12,000 musket balls
+only killing three and wounding three. The brethren did not fire so
+much in proportion but did much more execution. Truly, the Lord fights
+the battles of his saints. The cannon of the brethren was not of much
+service, they would not carry more than a quarter of a mile, whereas
+those of the mob would hold well a half a mile. They shot nine balls
+through a small smith shop, one through Wells' barn and one at his
+house but the ball struck the ground in front of his house and glanced
+through the well curb. The mayor of Quincy watched the battle from the
+tower of the temple and owned that history never afforded a parallel.
+The brethren then began to get their families and effects over the
+river where they remain in a suffering and destitute condition until
+wagons and means are sent from the saints to their relief. On the
+Thursday following, the mob, 1,200 strong, entered the city. 'Tis said
+from good authority that such is the distress and sufferings of the
+saints as actually to draw tears from this mob.
+
+Saturday, September 26
+
+Russell told me that he had selected three lots for us and we could go
+as soon as we had a mind to. He saw Heber on the subject. I made up my
+mind to start on Monday for Winter Quarters.
+
+Sunday, September 27
+
+This morning Brother Smithies came with six yoke of Heber's cattle
+and said we must be ready to start in five minutes while he went to
+water his cattle and although we had everything unprepared we were
+ready before he got back. I felt well enough to drive a team. We
+took six wagons down and camped on the same block with Heber in Cape
+Disappointment. James and Pitt went back to wait for Corbitt who was
+herding cows and in the evening returned with three more wagons.
+
+Monday, September 28
+
+Got the balance of the wagons and poles, etc., down. I copied three
+letters for Dr. Richards.
+
+Tuesday, September 29
+
+Corbitt has started down into the country to fetch potatoes, etc.
+
+
+
+November 1846
+
+Sunday, November 1
+
+During the last month several times I have been very sick and then
+again would be somewhat better. I still continue to be feeble and
+unable to work. I have one house nearly finished and shall in a few
+days occupy it. Thomas Corbitt has been down the river to fetch a
+load of corn on shares but President Young told me to take the whole
+of it for which I feel very grateful. I have sent my cattle to the
+rushes to be wintered, having but eight tons of hay although James and
+Corbitt worked from twenty-six to thirty days but Russell and Rolfe
+have contrived to work it into their hands, taking as Rolfe said, half
+of Corbitt's hay for herding my cattle while he was in the hay field.
+I think this is as wrong a piece of business as has been played on me
+through the journey.
+
+
+
+January 1847
+
+_Winter Quarters_
+
+Friday, January 1
+
+Morning at the store. At 2:00 p.m. went with Diantha to her father's
+and partook of a roast turkey for dinner. At 4:00 met the band at the
+Basket Shop and played about an hour and a half. The basket makers
+made each of us a present of a new basket and showed their gratitude
+various ways. At 6:00 met with the band at Father Kimball's and played
+for a party till after one o'clock. President Young and Kimball danced
+considerable and all seemed to feel well.
+
+Saturday, January 2
+
+At the store regulating the books and making out Whitney and Woolley's
+account current, etc. About 2:00 p.m. Sarah came and said her mother
+wanted me. Moroni had fallen into the fire and burned himself very
+badly. I went home and found as she said. All over the left side of
+his head burned, his face very badly burned, large blisters round his
+left eye. I immediately applied some consecrated oil and ordered them
+to keep it on all the time. I then returned to the store. Evening
+President Young came and took his hardware bill, domestic drilling,
+etc. About 8:00 p.m. I went home.
+
+Sunday, January 3
+
+Moroni's face seems much better, all except around his left eye which
+looks very bad. I was at the store all day working at Whitney's account
+current which seems very bad to regulate. Evening Heber, his wife
+Ellen, Sarah Ann and Sister Whitney came in to trade and remained till
+about ten o'clock.
+
+Monday, January 4
+
+At the store all day. Evening waiting on Orson Pratt and Amasa Lyman.
+Paid my tax today, $2.17½ to I. C. Wright.
+
+Tuesday, January 5
+
+At the store all day. Evening the band met at my house.
+
+Wednesday, January 6
+
+At the store all day, the weather extremely cold.
+
+Thursday, January 7
+
+At the store, the weather still colder than yesterday. Evening went to
+Sister Buel's and took supper of turkey. Afterwards went to Leonard's
+and played for them with Hutchinson and Smithies till 12:00.
+
+Friday, January 8
+
+At the store again, the weather still colder. Evening the band met at
+my house and played some.
+
+Saturday, January 9
+
+At the store all day. Quite unwell till 9:00 p.m.
+
+Sunday, January 10
+
+At home mostly all day. About 2:00 p.m. went to Hutchinson's to dinner.
+
+Monday, January 11
+
+At the store all day, the weather more moderate. Margaret and her boy
+doing well. Last night Pitt returned from Missouri.
+
+Tuesday, January 12
+
+This morning Ruth began to feel unwell. I went to the store and
+continued settlements as usual. Brothers Lee and Russell returned
+from Missouri, having obtained change for the checks. About 4:00 p.m.
+President Young and J. D. Lee came to Bishop Whitney's and I
+received in gold $496.17, and in silver $1,080.52 out of three checks
+which Lee took value $2,447.32, the balance to be accounted for
+hereafter. Soon as I was through receiving the money, I was informed
+that my folks had sent for me and I went home soon after, found that
+Ruth had brought forth a son twenty minutes after 5:00 p.m. She had a
+pretty hard time, but feels comfortable as can be expected. The boy is
+named Newel Horace. Evening I met with the band at Johnson's and played
+till about 11:00 p.m. The house was very much crowded and not much room
+to dance, but they kept it up freely.
+
+Wednesday, January 13
+
+This morning Ruth feels more comfortable. At the store all day waiting
+for Lee and Russel to settle. Evening Russel came and I received from
+him in gold $177.50, and in silver $363.19. He also accounted for
+$150.00 paid to Heber and $30.00 to Daniel Russel out of a check value
+$732.53 leaving him deficit $11.84. Spent the evening at home.
+
+Thursday, January 14
+
+At the store paying out a pair of the money, expecting before I made
+final payments to settle with Lee and Egan.
+
+Friday, January 15
+
+Spent an hour with Lee and Egan at my house but did not accomplish
+much towards a settlement. Afterwards at the store paying out money,
+settling, etc., filled bills for Pisgah & Garden Grove.
+
+Saturday, January 16
+
+At the store again paying, settling, etc., all day. The weather very
+cold. My folks doing well.
+
+Sunday, January 17
+
+At home mostly all day.
+
+Monday, January 18
+
+At the store all day, mostly paying money to the soldiers' wives.
+
+Tuesday, January 19
+
+At the store paying money, etc.
+
+Wednesday, January 20
+
+At the store paying money, etc.
+
+Thursday, January 21
+
+At the store paying money, etc.
+
+Friday, January 22
+
+At the store paying money, etc. Evening went with Hutchinson to
+Packer's party and played for the party in the smoke till near midnight.
+
+Saturday, January 23
+
+At the store all day paying money, etc. Evening met with Pitt and
+Hutchinson at the council house.
+
+Sunday, January 24
+
+Headache all day having taken cold last evening. Mostly at home. A few
+hours at the store over the river and back. Night played with Pitt
+awhile.
+
+Monday, January 25
+
+At the store, very busy paying money, etc. Snowed some and is cold.
+Whitney let me have some goods. Evening walked alone.
+
+Tuesday, January 26
+
+At the store till 2:00 p.m. Afterward went with the Quadrille Band to
+the Council House agreeably to previous notice and played for a party
+of men (70's) and their families who had assisted in building the
+house. They danced till about midnight. We had plenty to eat and drink
+through the interview and a very pleasant party.
+
+Wednesday, January 27
+
+At the store again till noon. At 2:00 p.m. at the Council House with
+the Quadrille Band and played for another company of those who had
+assisted in building the house. We had plenty of refreshments and a
+very sociable party as on yesterday. Broke up again about midnight.
+
+Thursday, January 28
+
+At the store till noon, and then at the Council House with the
+Quadrille Band playing for the third party of those who had assisted in
+building the house, together with the poor basket makers.
+
+Friday, January 29
+
+At home and the store. Felt quite unwell.
+
+Saturday, January 30
+
+At the store all day settling and paying money to soldiers' wives.
+
+Sunday, January 31
+
+At home all day. Dined with Diantha, Ruth, Margaret and mother Farr on
+a turkey.
+
+
+
+February 1847
+
+Monday, February 1
+
+At the store all day settling accounts, paying money, etc.
+
+Tuesday, February 2
+
+At the store till noon. Afterwards at the Council House with the
+Quadrille Band playing for Brigham's family generally.
+
+Wednesday, February 3
+
+At the store till noon. Afterwards at the Council House with the
+Quadrille Band to play for a family meeting of the Young family.
+President Brigham Young was quite sick and seemed very low spirited.
+After the meeting had been opened by prayer, the President called on
+his brothers to stand up by him in the center of the room which they
+did according to age. John Young took his place at the head, then
+Phineas, Joseph, Brigham and Lorenzo. The President then called on
+Heber to take his place in the line inasmuch as he had been recognized
+about fifteen years as a member of the Young family. He took his place
+between Joseph and Brigham. The President then said this was the first
+time that father Young's boys had been together in the same capacity
+for a number of years, etc. After a few remarks the remainder of the
+evening was spent by partaking of a good supper and cheerful dancing
+till about two in the morning, when the party broke up in the best of
+spirits and good feeling.
+
+Thursday, February 4
+
+At the store mostly, evening at home.
+
+Friday, February 5
+
+At the store till noon, then with the Quadrille Band to play for the
+Silver Greys till midnight.
+
+Saturday, February 6
+
+At the store all day.
+
+Sunday, February 7
+
+At home.
+
+Monday, February 8
+
+At the store all day.
+
+Tuesday, February 9
+
+At the store till 10:00 a.m. Then went with the Quadrille Band in
+Eldridge's carriage to play round the city, but the weather was so cold
+we could not play much. At 2:00 p.m., met with--
+
+_[No pages from here until April.]_
+
+
+
+April 1847
+
+...into camp from England which will probably detain the camp a few days.
+
+Friday, April 9
+
+Went with the Quadrille Band over the River as the twelve do not
+start for the Horn today. We played in the boat as we crossed, but in
+returning the wind was high, the boat heavily loaded with cattle and
+dangerous crossing.
+
+Saturday, April 10
+
+At home nearly all day.
+
+Sunday, April 11
+
+At home and Farr's. I told Winslow Farr concerning Hosea Stout's
+threats to take my life after the Twelve are gone, etc. He called at
+night on his return from the Council and told me to be on my guard.
+
+Monday, April 12
+
+At home all day. Thomas and James had planted a number of garden seeds
+on Saturday. Today, they are cutting wood and preparing to go to the
+farm tomorrow. I have no hay, neither can I get any for my cows and
+horses.
+
+Tuesday, April 13
+
+At home most of the day. Thomas and James started for the farm. Evening
+went to the store and told Brigham and Heber about Hosea Stout's
+calculations, etc.
+
+Wednesday, April 14
+
+This morning severely pained with rheumatism in my face. At 11:00 a.m.
+Brigham and Dr. Richards came. Brigham told me to rise up and start
+with the pioneers in half an hour's notice. I delivered to him the
+records of the K. of G. and set my folks to work to get my clothes
+together to start with the pioneers. At two o'clock I left my family
+and started in Heber's carriage with Heber and Wm. Kimball and Ellen
+Sanders. Bishop Whitney and Lyman went out with us in another wagon.
+We went about 19 miles and camped on the prairie. After supper Heber
+prayed and we retired to rest.
+
+Thursday, April 15
+
+After eating and prayers by Bishop Whitney, started at half past seven
+and got to the Elk Horn at 11:30. We were all across at 12:00 and there
+we overtook Brigham, G. A. Smith, E. T. Benson and Amasa
+Lyman. We arrived at the pioneers' Camp about 3:00 p.m. This camp is
+about twelve miles from the Elk Horn and about 47 from Winter Quarters.
+I spent the evening with Aaron Farr, Horace Whitney and Jackson Redding.
+
+Friday, April 16
+
+This day is gloomy, windy and cold. About 8:00 a.m. the camp was called
+together, and organized two captains of 100's viz. Stephen Markham
+and A. P. Rockwood were appointed, also five captains of 50's
+and 14 captains of 10's. There are 143 men and boys on the list of
+the pioneer company, three women and Lorenzo Young's two children.
+There are 73 wagons. C. P. Rockwell has gone back to camp with
+J. C. Little. Bishop Whitney, Lyman, Wm. Kimball and J. B.
+Noble returned from here to Winter Quarters. The following is a list of
+all the names of this pioneer company. To wit:
+
+Wilford Woodruff, John S. Fowler, Jacob Burnham, Orson Pratt, Joseph
+Egbert, John N. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, George A. Smith, George
+Wardle, Thomas Grover, Ezra T. Benson, Barnabas L. Adams, Roswell
+Stevens, Amasa Lyman, Sterling Driggs, Albert Carrington, Thomas
+Bullock, George Brown, Willard Richards, Jesse C. Little, Phineas H.
+Young, John Y. Greene, Thomas Tanner, Brigham Young, Addison Everett,
+Truman O. Angel, Lorenzo Young and wife, Bryant Stringham, Albert
+P. Rockwood, Joseph L. Schofield, Luke Johnson, John Holman, Edmund
+Elsworth, Alvarnus Hanks, George R. Grant, Millen Atwood, Samuel Fox,
+Tunis Rappleyee, Harvey Pierce, William Dykes, Jacob Weiler, Stephen H.
+Goddard, Tarlton Lewis, Henry G. Sherwood, Zebedee Coltrin, Sylvester
+H. Earl, John Dixon, Samuel H. Marble, George Scholes, William Henrie,
+William A. Empey, Charles Shumway, Thomas Woolsey, Chancy Loveland,
+Erastus Snow, Andrew Shumway, James Craig, William Wordsworth, William
+Vance, Simeon Howd, Seeley Owen, James Case, Artemas Johnson, William
+A. Smoot, Franklin B. Dewey, William Carter, Franklin G. Losee, Burr
+Frost, Datus Ensign, Franklin B. Stewart, Monroe Frink, Eric Glines,
+Ozro Eastman, Seth Taft, Horace Thornton, Stephen Kelsey, John S.
+Eldredge, Charles D. Barnum, Alma M. Williams, Rufus Allen, Robert T.
+Thomas, James W. Stuart, Elijah Newman, Levi N. Kendall, Francis Boggs,
+David Grant, Heber C. Kimball, Howard Egan, William A. King, Thomas
+Cloward, Hosea Cushing, Robert Byard, George Billings, Edson Whipple,
+Philo Johnson, William Clayton, Appleton M. Harmon, Carlos Murray,
+Horace K. Whitney, Orson K. Whitney, Orrin P. Rockwell, Nathaniel
+Thomas Brown, R. Jackson Redding, John Pack, Francis M. Pomroy, Aaron
+Farr, Nathaniel Fairbanks, John S. Higbee, John Wheeler, Solomon
+Chamberlain, Conrad Kleinman, Joseph Rooker, Perry Fitzgerald, John H.
+Tippets, James Davenport, Henson Walker, Benjamin Rolfe, Norton Jacobs,
+Charles A. Harper, George Woodard, Stephen Markham, Lewis Barney,
+George Mills, Andrew Gibbons, Joseph Hancock, John W. Norton, Shadrach
+Roundy, Hans C. Hanson, Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, John Brown, Mathew
+Ivory, David Powell, (Hark Lay, Oscar Crosby, blacks) Joseph Mathews,
+Gilbroid Summe, John Gleason, Charles Burke, Alexander P. Chessley,
+Rodney Badger, Norman Taylor, (Green Flake, black) Ellis Eames.
+
+There were 72 wagons, 93 horses, 52 mules, 66 oxen, 19 cows, and 17
+dogs, and chickens.
+
+The names of the females in this camp are: Harriet Page Young, Clarissa
+Decker, and Ellen Sanders. The names of the children are Isaac Perry
+Decker Young and Sabisky L. Young, making a total of 148 souls who have
+started to go west of the mountains as pioneers to find a home where
+the saints can live in peace and enjoy the fruits of their labors,
+and where we shall not be under the dominion of gentile governments,
+subject to the wrath of mobs and where the standards of peace can be
+raised, the Ensign to nations reared and the kingdom of God flourish
+until truth shall prevail, and the saints enjoy the fulness of the
+gospel.
+
+The following are the names of the captains of 50's as appointed at
+this organization, viz. Addison Everett, Tarlton Lewis, James Case,
+John Pack and Shadrack Roundy. The captains of 10's are as follows:
+
+Wilford Woodruff, Ezra T. Benson, Phineas H. Young, Luke Johnson,
+Stephen H. Goddard, Charles Shumway, James Case, Seth Taft, Howard
+Egan, Appleton M. Harmon, John S. Higbee, Norton Jacobs, John Brown,
+Joseph Mathews. For the names of the guard and the gun division see
+under date of April 30th.
+
+Stephen Markham was appointed the Captain of the Guard and ordered to
+select out of the camp, fifty men for guard, such as he had confidence
+in who are to be considered as a standing guard, to attend to the
+wagons each night, twelve of them to stand at a time, and to have
+two sets each night, that is, 12 each watch to stand half the night.
+In cases where the horses and cattle are tied some distance from the
+wagons at night, an extra guard is to be selected from the balance of
+the company or camp, the standing guard not being permitted to leave
+the immediate neighborhood of the wagons. After the organization was
+over, I wrote a letter to Diantha, and put it into the hands of Bishop
+Whitney, together with the one I received yesterday from father and
+I. McEwan, also the one from Ellen to James. Up to 12:00 a.m. I had
+no place to put my trunk and clothing, and did not know what to do
+with them. However, soon after Heber told me to put them in Appleton
+M. Harmon's wagon, which was done. At 2:00 p m. the camp started out
+to proceed on the journey. I bid farewell to to Bishop Whitney and
+his brother Lyman and son Joshua, who all returned from this place,
+also Wm. H. Kimball and Joseph B. Noble. We traveled about three miles
+and encamped in a line about six hundred yards from timber, where
+there is plenty of cottonwood and some rushes. This night I slept
+with Philo Johnson, but having only one quilt, and the night severely
+cold, I suffered much, and took a very bad cold. The country in the
+neighborhood of the Elk Horn is one of the most beautiful I ever saw.
+The bluffs on the east are nicely rolling and beautifully lined with
+timber, and some very nice cedar groves. From these bluffs a little
+above the ferry you can see the meanderings of the Platte River, and
+the beautiful level bottom on the north of it, about fifteen miles wide
+for many miles up the river. The Horn is a beautiful river about 150
+feet wide and about four feet deep.
+
+Saturday, April 17
+
+This morning the weather is severely cold, with a strong wind from the
+north and northwest. We started out at nine o'clock and traveled till
+near 12:00 the distance being about seven miles. We camped close by a
+cottonwood grove, and the brethren fell hundreds of them to feed their
+teams and save corn. There is a small lake close by but the water is
+not good and the brethren go to the river about a half a mile. At 5:00
+p.m. the camps were called together and organized in military order as
+follows:
+
+Brigham Young, Lieutenant General.
+
+Stephen Markham, Colonel.
+
+John Pack and Shadrack Roundy, Majors.
+
+The captains of 10's to be captains of 10's in this order, except John
+Pack, who being appointed major, Appleton M. Harmon was appointed
+captain in his stead.
+
+Thomas Bullock, clerk of the camp. Thomas Tanner captain of the cannon
+with the privilege of choosing eight men to manage it in case of
+necessity. The President then said: "After we start from here, every
+man must keep his loaded gun in his hand, or in the wagon where he
+can put his hand on it at a moment's warning. If they are cap locks,
+take off the cap and put on a little leather to keep wet and etc. out.
+If flint locks, take out the priming and fill the pan with twine or
+cotton," etc.
+
+The wagons must keep together when traveling, and not separate as they
+have previously done, and every man to walk beside his own wagon, and
+not leave it only by permission. A while before evening one of the
+trader's wagons came from the Pawnee village, loaded with furs and
+peltry, and camped about one quarter of a mile below us. At night Eames
+and Hanson played some on their violins. All peace and quietness. At
+night I slept with Egan in Heber's wagon, Heber being gone to sleep
+with President Young.
+
+Sunday, April 18
+
+This morning I wrote a letter for Heber to his wife Vilate, which was
+sent by Brother Ellis Eames who has concluded to go back on account of
+poor health, spitting blood, etc. He started back with the trader's
+wagon about eight o'clock a.m. The wind this morning east and southeast
+and very cold, with a slight shower of snow. At 10:00 a.m. seven more
+traders' wagons came in and stopped about one quarter of a mile below
+us, soon after six mules loaded with robes and furs. These traders
+say they have come from the Pawnee village in two days. Brother
+Roundy got some Buffalo meat from them and gave me a little, which
+I thought tasted very good. I commenced writing Heber's journal and
+wrote considerable. He wants me to write his journal all the journey.
+I also wrote considerable in this book. Afternoon the weather more
+moderate and pleasant, the wind has changed near south and the sun
+shines. I walked with Horace Whitney to the river which is about a
+half a mile. At 4:30 p.m. father James Case was cutting a cottonwood
+tree to brouse his horses, and just as it fell the wind struck it and
+threw it directly contrary to the direction he intended it to fall. The
+consequence was, one of the limbs struck an ox on the neck and knocked
+him down. His right eye was knocked down in the socket out of sight.
+The ox doesn't seem seriously hurt otherwise. About 10 minutes after it
+was done, the eye turned back to its place, and the ox seems to have
+sustained little injury. At 5:00 p.m., the officers of the camp met
+with President Young, and he told the order for traveling and camping
+hereafter, which was communicated to the companies by the captains of
+10's as follows:
+
+At 5:00 in the morning the bugle is to be sounded as a signal for
+every man to arise and attend prayers before he leaves his wagon. Then
+cooking, eating, feeding teams, etc., till seven o'clock, at which time
+the camp is to move at the sound of the bugle. Each teamster to keep
+beside his team, with his loaded gun in his hands or in his wagon where
+he can get it in a moment. The extra men, each to walk opposite his
+wagon with his loaded gun on his shoulder, and no man to be permitted
+to leave his wagon unless he obtains permission from his officer. In
+case of an attack from Indians or hostile appearances, the wagons to
+travel in double file. The order of encampment to be in a circle with
+the mouth of the wagon to the outside, and the horses and stock tied
+inside the circle. At 8:30 p.m. the bugle to be sounded again at which
+time all to have prayers in their wagons and to retire to rest by nine
+o'clock. Tonight I went to bed about seven-thirty o'clock suffering
+severely with pain in my head and face. I slept with Philo Johnson.
+
+Monday, April 19
+
+At 5:00 a.m., at the sound of the bugle I arose, my face still paining
+me very badly. After eating breakfast, I started out on foot, before
+the wagons started, with my rifle on my shoulder. At 7:15 the wagons
+began to move and at 7:30 were all formed in double file and proceeded
+on. After traveling about eight miles we arrived at a number of small
+lakes, where were many ducks. A number of the brethren shot at them and
+killed several. At 1:15 p.m. we arrived at a bend in the river where a
+small stream runs around an island.
+
+We stayed here to feed awhile, having traveled about fifteen miles
+mostly a western course with the wind south. The roads very good and
+the country very level on these flat bottoms of the Platte river
+which bottoms appear to be from ten to fifteen miles wide. Soon
+after the camp was formed, O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding, and
+J. C. Little came in from Winter Quarters. They arrived at 2:10.
+They have found Dr. Richard's mare which was lost east of the Elk
+Horn and brought her to camp. They brought me a line from Diantha
+and one from Ruth and Margaret. In the last was a very gentle piece
+of information which has caused me to reflect much, and proves to me
+that Ruth and Margaret's virtue and integrity have for the last year
+been far superior to mine. In my letter to them I requested them to
+attend to family prayer in my absence, a thing which I have neglected
+since leaving Nauvoo. They informed me that they had done that when I
+was at home but unknown to me, and they had then, and still continue
+to bear me up before their Heavenly Father. Oh, what integrity, what
+faithfulness. I feel unworthy to possess two such treasures, but still
+feel to try to reward them for it, and may my Father in heaven bless
+them, and all my family and let his angels guard them, and me during
+my absence that we may all be permitted to meet again and enjoy each
+other's society in this world for many years to come, and eternal
+in the world to come. O! Lord, grant this prayer of thine unworthy
+servant, and fill my family with peace and union, and open a way that
+they may have the necessaries and comforts of life, and Thy name shall
+have the praise, even so, amen.
+
+I received by Porter, some few fish hooks and lines, a ball of fish
+line and three pencils, but no small hooks nor knives or wafers. At
+twenty minutes after 3:00 p.m. the wagons began to move again, in the
+same order as this morning and traveled until 6:00 p.m. when we arrived
+at a very pretty open view of the Platte river, and the encampment was
+formed in a semi-circle on its banks, having traveled since noon, about
+five miles, and in the whole day 20 miles, over the same kind of dry,
+level, sandy bottom. The river here appears to be about a mile wide
+but very shoal. There is not much timber where we are camped, and the
+water is pretty muddy. I walked some this afternoon in company with
+Orson Pratt and suggested to him the idea of fixing a set of wooden cog
+wheels to the hub of a wagon wheel, in such order as to tell the exact
+number of miles we travel each day. He seemed to agree with me that it
+could be easily done at a trifling expense. After the encampment was
+formed, I went to Brother Luke Johnson and asked him to draw my tooth
+which has pained me so much for a long time. While I was speaking to
+him Stephen Markham came up, and wanted him to take his team and the
+Revenue Cutter the name by which the leather boat is called back about
+two miles, as they designed to seine in one of the lakes. Brother Luke
+Johnson drives the team which draws the boat and rides in the boat as
+in a wagon. I concluded I would go and watch them fish and started out
+on foot. I overtook Markham and John S. Higbee and in our conversation
+I mentioned to Brother John S. Higbee the same idea I had advanced to
+Orson Pratt, and he also seemed to coincide fully. After arriving at
+the lake they launched the boat and made three hauls. They only caught
+a snapping turtle, four small turtles, one duck, two small cat fish,
+and two creek suckers. They then concluded to return and I started on
+foot again with two rifles to carry. I got back to camp before they
+overtook me and being perfectly tired and very footsore, went to bed,
+but had no rest on account of the severe pain in my head and face.
+
+Tuesday, April 20
+
+Arose at 5:30, my head and face very bad indeed. I ate but little
+breakfast, although we had a couple of ducks and a snipe. We started
+out at 7:30, the morning pleasant except a strong west wind. At 9:15
+arrived at Shell creek, which is about six or eight feet wide, and a
+poor bridge over it, but all the wagons got well over. This is about
+five miles from where we camped last night. We then passed through a
+small grove of timber, and entered again upon the wide, open prairie
+bottom. At 11:30 we stopped beside a small slough or lake to feed and
+eat, etc., being five miles from Shell creek. While stopping here,
+three deer passed about half a mile west of the wagons. O. P.
+Rockwell and Thomas Brown chased them on horses four or five miles, but
+did not succeed in taking any of them. The wind has fallen considerably
+and it is very warm and dusty. At 1:00 p.m. started again, the horse
+teams taking the lead, traveled about ten miles farther and encamped
+near a cotton wood grove on the banks of the river. The encampment was
+formed about half past five. Tanner's bellows and anvil were set up and
+a number of tires set before dark.
+
+John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, S. Markham, and some others, started
+ahead of the camp about noon, and went about two miles farther than
+this place to a lake with the boat and seine. They took over 200 very
+nice fish, and arrived with them about the time the camp was formed.
+The fish were distributed around the camp according to the number of
+persons in each wagon, generally two to a wagon, and the brethren
+enjoyed a good supper on fish. I went to the river and washed my feet
+which were very dusty and sore. I also washed my socks as well as I
+could in cold water without soap. After Brother Luke Johnson had got
+through distributing fish, I went and asked him to draw my tooth. He
+willingly agreed and getting his instruments, I sat down in a chair,
+he lanced the gum, then took his nippers and jerked it out. The whole
+operation did not take more than one minute. He only got half the
+original tooth, the balance being left in the jaw. After this my head
+and face pained me much more than before. I ate but little supper and
+then lay down, but could not sleep for pain till near morning. The
+evening was very calm and pleasant.
+
+Wednesday, April 21
+
+Arose at 5:00, my face easier, but swollen and my gums raw. Took
+breakfast on fish and coffee, but ate no bread, it being very dry and
+hard. I could not bear to put it in my mouth. At seven started on
+foot; the ox teams being gone ahead. Some appearances of rain, and a
+slight shower fell. Wind northeast and pretty cool. At ten minutes to
+nine an Indian rode up to the first wagon and appeared very friendly.
+Soon after six or eight others came running on foot. They came from
+the timber about a mile to the left. At 10:00 we arrived at a fork in
+the road, the one on the left leading to the new Pawnee village, and
+the one to the right leaving the village some distance to the south. A
+consultation was held by President Young with father Case relative to
+the roads crossing the river, etc., when it was concluded to take the
+right hand road. We proceeded accordingly and at 12:00 came in sight
+of the new Pawnee village, in an open spot on the south bank of the
+Loop Fork, between two bodies of timber. The village appeared to be
+about three quarters of a mile south of the road we were on. At 12:30
+we were opposite the village, and could then see distinctly upwards
+of 100 lodges set pretty close together, and appeared to be ranged in
+several lines, and set in good order. We proceeded until we arrived at
+a long narrow lake by the side of the timber and near to the river. At
+1:00 p.m. the encampment was formed on the bank of the lake and a guard
+instantly placed at the passes, as many of the Indians had followed us,
+although they had to wade the river, but it is very shoal. One of the
+Indians presented several certificates from persons who had previously
+traveled through their village, all certifying that the Grand Chief of
+the Pawnees was friendly disposed, and they had made him presents of
+a little powder, lead, salt, etc. Heber gave them a little tobacco,
+and a little salt. President Young gave to the chief, some powder,
+lead, salt and a number of the brethren gave a little flour each. The
+old chief, however, did not seem to think the presents sufficient,
+and said he did not like us to go west through their country, he was
+afraid we should kill their buffalo and drive them off. Brother Shumway
+told him we did not like buffalo, but this does not appear to give
+him much satisfaction. However, there was no appearance of hostility.
+In fact, all that came to camp seemed highly pleased to shake hands
+with our brethren and would run from one side to another so as not
+to miss one. A number of the squaws were on the opposite side of the
+lake with mattocks digging roots. Brother Shumway says there are
+about twelve thousand of the Pawnees in this neighborhood, and it is
+reported that there are five thousand warriors. We did not see many of
+them. Larpy is at their village trading, and it is uncertain whether
+he will endeavor to use an influence for us or against us. We have no
+fear, however, because their only object appears to be plunder, and it
+is the calculation to be well prepared by night and day. During the
+resting hour I spent the time writing in my journal. At 2:15 p.m. the
+ox teams started out again and the horse teams soon after. The weather
+had been calm and pleasant for a few hours, but about 2:00 or a little
+before, some heavy clouds began to gather, and thunder was heard at a
+distance. About 2:30 the rain began to descend heavily, accompanied by
+heavy peals of thunder and vivid lightning which continued till about
+4:00. A strong north wind blew up, the rain and thunder ceased and the
+weather grew very cold. We traveled till 5:30 and the encampment was
+formed on the Loop Fork of the Platte river. After the encampment was
+formed and teams turned out, the brethren were all called together and
+some remarks made by President Young, advising them to have a strong
+guard round the camps tonight. He called for volunteers to stand guard
+and about 100 volunteered amongst whom were all the twelve except Dr.
+Richards. This guard was divided into two companies of fifty each, one
+company to stand the first half the night, and the remainder the last
+half. Those of the twelve who stood took the first watch till 1:00.
+Brigham and Heber both stood on guard. Out of the companies a party
+were stationed as a picket guard some distance from the camp, the
+balance stood near the camp. The night was very cold, with a strong
+wind from the northeast, and in the middle of the night, it rained
+considerable. Our course this morning was about west. This afternoon,
+northwest. We are now within three miles from the bluffs on the north.
+We have traveled today about twenty miles, the roads being good and
+very level. The grass here is short but looks good. The buffalo grass
+is very short and curly like the hair on a buffalo robe. The spring
+grass doesn't seem to be as early here as at the Elk Horn, and the last
+year's growth not being burnt off, will be rather a disadvantage to
+the spring companies. I have noticed all the way on this bottom from
+the Elk Horn, that the ground is full of wild onions which appear far
+richer and larger than any wild onions I ever saw. I have no idea that
+corn would grow here for the land is very dry and loose and sandy, and
+appears poor. The country is beautiful and pleasing to the eye of the
+traveler, although you can only see one kind of scenery for several
+days.
+
+Thursday, April 22
+
+Arose soon after 5:00 a.m., my face very painful again caused by the
+cold. There has been no trouble from the Indians and all is peace and
+safe. The cannon was prepared for action, and stood all night just
+outside the wagons. There was considerable joking this morning on
+account of two of the picket guard having their guns stolen and Colonel
+Markham having his hat stolen. The owners were found asleep while on
+guard and those who found them so, took their guns to be a warning
+to them, but it is difficult for men to keep awake night after night
+after traveling 20 miles in the day, taking care of teams, cooking,
+etc. At 7:30 the camp proceeded again. I went ahead on foot. About one
+quarter of a mile from where we camped is one of the prettiest beds
+of nettle I have seen for some time. Our road this morning lay beside
+pretty heavy timber, and about a westerly course. After traveling two
+miles, crossed Looking Glass creek, a small stream about a rod wide,
+but easily forded. I still went ahead on foot and at 9:45 sat down on
+an Indian grave, on top of a mound from whence is a splendid view of
+the surrounding country for many miles. From southeast to southwest you
+can see the course of the Loop Fork for a number of miles. Northwest a
+level prairie about four miles and then a range of timber. The bluffs
+on the north about seven miles distant, and on the east a level prairie
+for about twenty miles. At this place there is a range of what appears
+to be mounds about a quarter of a mile long, running from northeast to
+southwest. At 12:15 we arrived on the east bank of Beaver River, having
+traveled about ten miles. This stream is about twenty to twenty-five
+feet wide; swift, clear water and pleasant tasting. The banks are
+tolerably well lined with timber. Here we stopped to feed. Some of the
+brethren went to fix the fording place a little, the banks are steep
+on each side and the water a little over two feet deep. At 2:00 p.m.
+started again, the ox teams first. When passing the river a number of
+the brethren stood on the west bank with a long rope which was hooked
+to the wagon tongue and they assisted the teams up the bank. The wagon
+I rode in crossed at two minutes after 2:00, and in a little while all
+were safely over. We proceeded on till half past five, when we arrived
+at the Pawnee Missionary station which is about seven miles from Beaver
+River. The country this afternoon was more uneven, there being many
+steep ditches and rises. The grass appears longer and there is much
+rosing weed. The soil looks black and no doubt would yield a good crop
+of corn. This missionary station was deserted last fall, and Brother
+Miller's company being camped here, they carried the missionaries
+and their effects to Bellview on the Missouri river. This is a very
+beautiful place for a location. On the north and west it is surrounded
+by bluffs, on the south by the Loop Fork at about three quarters of a
+mile distance. On the east by descending prairie. The Plumb Creek runs
+through it, and but a few rods from the missionaries' house. Its banks
+are lined with a little timber. There is also a steep bank on each
+side, and between these banks in the valley which is a few rods wide,
+the Sioux have practiced coming down when they have made their attacks
+on the Pawnees. The ravine is certainly well calculated to shelter
+an enemy from observation when designing to make a sudden attack.
+There are a number of good log houses here, considerable land under
+improvement enclosed by rail fences, and a good quantity of hay and
+fodder, large lots of iron, old and new, several plows and a drag. All
+apparently left to rot. There are also two stoves, etc. The government
+station is a quarter of a mile below, or south where father Case lived
+as government farmer and received $300.00 a year for it, but when Major
+Harvey learned at the last payday, which was last November, that father
+Case had joined the "Mormons" he very politely dismissed him from the
+government service. The Sioux came down sometime ago and burned up
+the government station houses, blacksmith shop and everything, but
+the missionary station they did not touch. This place according to
+my account is 134 miles from Winter Quarters, and a lovely place to
+live. Before dark the President called the camp together, and told
+them they might use the fodder and hay for their teams, but forbade
+any man carrying anything away, even to the value of one cent. He said
+he had no fears of the Pawnees troubling us here, but we had better be
+prepared lest the Sioux should come down and try to steal horses. A
+guard was selected and a picket guard to watch the ravine to the north.
+The cannon was also prepared and Brother Tanner drilled his men to use
+it till dark. At 9:00 p.m. I retired to rest and slept well through the
+night. The variation of the compass is about 12 degrees at this place.
+
+I again introduced the subject of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to
+tell the distance we travel, describing the machinery and time it would
+take to make it, etc., several caught, the idea and feel confident of
+its success.
+
+Friday, April 23
+
+Arose this morning at 5:30, my face bad again through sleeping cold.
+The air chilly but a very pleasant morning. President Young, Heber and
+others are gone to the river to ascertain where we can best ford it.
+There is a ford a little distance from here, and another about four
+miles above, but the latter is in the neighborhood of another band of
+the Pawnees and they are desirous to avoid it if possible. They started
+out on horseback at a quarter to eight and the camp remained here till
+they returned. Some are working, some fixing wagons, etc. The day is
+now warm and very pleasant. I went to Plumb creek and washed my feet
+which are very sore. The brethren returned at a quarter to 12:00 and
+reported that we would have to go about four miles and there build
+a raft. Tarlton Lewis was appointed to superintend the building of
+the raft. President Young then stated in regard to the plows, iron,
+etc., which lies around here, for the government is owing father Case
+considerable for services, and he has the privilege of taking this for
+his pay. He will do it and if the brethren want the iron, etc., they
+can have by hauling it, one half, and father Case the other half, and
+he (Case) will write and inform them what he has done. I started on
+foot about 12:00 and viewed the ruins of buildings, etc., which the
+Sioux have burned. There is a large quantity of good bar iron, and a
+number of plows, which the brethren put into their wagons on the terms
+proposed by father Case. Two miles from Plumb creek, passed another
+creek not very good to ford, although it is narrow but sandy. Two miles
+farther arrived at the intended crossing place, but the prospect looks
+dull for rafting on account of sandbars and very rapid current. My feet
+were so sore and blistered I could not walk for some time after I got
+there. The sun is very hot and no wind. At 3:20 the wagons arrived and
+prepared to ford the river. Luke Johnson was the first who went over,
+leaving the boat on this side, and although he had no load, nor even a
+wagon box, it was with difficulty he got over. Orson Pratt started next
+with a part of his load. When he had got in about a rod, his horses
+began to sink some in the sand and they could not draw. A number of the
+brethren jumped in and lifted at the wheels, etc., till they got him to
+the bar in the middle. He then started for the other bar and about half
+way across his horses sank in the quicksand so badly that one of them
+fell down. A number of the men immediately went to his assistance and
+took them off the wagon and led them across to the sand bar. President
+Young went over in the boat and took the loading out of the carriage
+into the boat. The carriage was drawn to the sand bar by men with a
+long rope. The brethren then assisted Elder Woodruff's team over in
+the same way, also John Pack's and Wordsworth's. President Young then
+ordered that no more wagons should go over that way, but move up the
+river about a quarter of a mile and camp until morning. The camp was
+formed about 5:30 p.m. The river is not more than two feet deep, but
+there are a great many beds of quicksand which are dangerous to teams,
+and calculated to shake a wagon to pieces. They make a noise when
+crossing the quicksands as if they were going over a stone pavement.
+
+The country here is indeed beautiful and appears rich, but there is
+very little timber. After crossing Plumb creek, there is plowed land
+for nearly two miles on the right but not fenced. It appears to have
+yielded a good crop of corn. The land on the left to the river is level
+and beautiful for a farm. We are now camped about a quarter of a mile
+from the old Pawnee village on a splendid table of land, level and
+pleasant as heart could desire. It is not much over three quarters of
+a mile wide and shielded on the north by beautiful rolling bluffs and
+on the south by the Loop Fork of the Platte. From this bank can be seen
+the timber on the banks of the main Platte, the bottom from here to it
+appears very level. There is something romantic in the scenery around
+here, and the prospect cannot well be exaggerated.
+
+In the evening the captains of tens were called together and a vote
+taken to build two light rafts, Tarlton Lewis to superintend one and
+Thomas Woolsey the other. As many loads of property as can be carried
+over in the boat will be done, and the teams with empty wagons will
+ford it. It is said that by going over several times with teams the
+sand will pack down and be good crossing, several of those who have
+been across believe this from today's experience and they calculate to
+give it a fair trial tomorrow. Amongst the rest of those who waded the
+river to help the wagons over, Brother Kimball joined and assisted one
+team to the other side, and then returned in the boat with President
+Young.
+
+Saturday, April 24
+
+Arose soon after 5:00. Morning fine, but cool. One of Phineas Young's
+horses was choked to death last night. It appears he was tied to a
+stake with a chain near a steep hole in the ravine, and either stepped
+back or lay down and rolled over into the hole, and the chain being
+short he was choked to death, having no power to extricate himself.
+This is a grievous loss for there are no more teams in the camp than
+what are absolutely necessary, and in fact, there are hardly enough to
+get along very comfortably. By request of Brother Kimball, I went up to
+the old Indian village immediately after breakfast to take a view of
+it, and write a description as near as circumstances would permit which
+is as follows:
+
+This village is situated on the north bank of the Loop Fork of the
+Nebraska or Platte river, about four miles southwest of the mission
+station on Plumb creek and 138 miles from Winter Quarters. The Pawnee
+nation is divided into four bands. The names of the bands are the Grand
+Pawnee, the Loop, the Tappas, and the Republican. When the nation
+settled in this region the Grand Pawnees and the Tappas located on the
+west bank of Plumb creek and the Loops located on this spot and were
+afterwards joined by the Republicans. When the Sioux made war on the
+Indians at the first settlement and destroyed their village, the Grand
+Chief saw that his party were unable to cope with their hostile foes
+alone, and it was concluded that the four bands should locate together
+on this spot, but notwithstanding this, the Sioux succeeded in burning
+this village last summer during the absence of the Pawnees when on
+their hunt. They rebuilt most of it again, but last fall the Sioux
+made another attack and burned the whole village except one dwelling
+or lodge, which is not harmed. There are three or four others but
+partially destroyed, the rest are entirely demolished and levelled with
+the ground. The Pawnees then moved to the place where we passed them a
+few days ago, and are dwelling in their lodges made of hides, etc. The
+name of the Grand Chief is Shefmolan, who is also the superior chief
+of the Pawnee band. All documents or treaties made by the nation are
+signed by this chief and the nation is then bound by them. The head
+chief of the Loup band is named Siscatup, the other chiefs, father Case
+did not recollect their names. From him I obtained this information.
+There is a part of the Loup band on the main Platte, some distance from
+here, who have never yielded to the government treaties, but stand out
+from the rest of the nation and spend their time mostly in plundering
+other tribes as well as travelers. They frequently go as far as the
+Cherokee nation to rob and plunder. All the Pawnee nation are noted for
+their love of plundering travelers of their horses and mules, but not
+often anything else.
+
+On the east and west of the village is a beautiful level bench of
+prairie extending many miles, and to the ridge of bluffs which run
+east and west touching within a mile of the village. On the top of the
+bluffs can be seen a number of Indian graves. To the northwest about
+a mile distant, and at the foot of the bluffs is an extensive corn
+field, the stalks still standing. On the south is a beautiful view of
+the nice level prairie extending to the main branch of the Platte, the
+timber on the banks can be faintly, but plainly seen. The Loup Fork
+is probably about 400 yards wide at this place and very shoal, except
+a narrow channel near the shore on this side which is probably three
+feet deep. The bottom is mostly quicksand and not safe fording. About
+half the surface from bank to bank is sand bars which appear above the
+surface of the water mostly on the south side. There are several small
+islands and a little timber to the right or west. The village occupies
+a space of about 40 acres of land, and is mostly enclosed by a ditch
+about five feet wide, and a bank inside the ditch about four feet high,
+running from the bank of the river around the village till it again
+strikes the bank, and when perfect, has formed a good fortification. A
+number of lodges are built outside the ditch on the east and on account
+of want of room inside when the bands from the other village joined
+them. The village is composed of about 200 houses or lodges varying
+in size but all similarly constructed, as appears from the remnants
+of some left standing. While I take this sketch, I sit in the one
+left unharmed, which it is said was owned by the chief Siscatup, and
+as the lodges are all constructed in the same manner, only differing
+in size, I will endeavor to describe the way in which this is built.
+In the first place, the earth is dug out a little, slanting to the
+depth of about 18 inches in the form of a perfect circle about 44 feet
+in diameter. This forms the floor of the dwelling. Then there are 17
+crotch posts let into the floor in a direction slanting outward so that
+the top of the crotch is about perpendicular with the outside of the
+circle, the foot being set about 18 or 20 inches from the base of the
+circle. These posts are arranged at about equal distances from each
+other around the circle. In the crotches, poles are laid across from
+crotch to crotch, and are sufficiently high for the tallest man to
+stand upright under them. At the distance of 18 or 20 inches from the
+outside of the circle are many smaller poles let into the surface of
+the ground, on an average of about a foot apart and leaning inward so
+that the top of the poles rest on the cross pieces which are supported
+by the crotches. The space between the foot of these poles and the edge
+of the circle forms a bench for seats entirely around the house, and
+there is room sufficient for more than a hundred men to seat themselves
+on it very comfortably. On the outside of these last mentioned poles
+are laid a number of still smaller poles horizontally from bottom to
+top from about 9 inches to a foot apart, these are lashed fast to
+the upright poles by strings made of bark. On the outside of these
+is laid a thick layer of long prairie grass and occasionally lashed
+through to the upright poles also. The whole is then covered with
+earth about two feet in thickness at the bottom and gradually thinner
+towards the top. This forms an enclosure when completed around the
+whole area about seven feet high, a place being left sufficiently large
+for the door. The next process is to place erect ten upright poles or
+crotches, very stout, being about a foot in diameter about seven feet
+nearer the center of the circle than the first crotches. These are set
+perpendicular, deep in the ground and also arranged at about equal
+distances from each other, and form a strong foundation which is the
+design and use to which they are appropriated. On the top of these
+pillars are also horizontal poles laid strong and firm, the top of the
+pillars being about eleven or twelve feet above the floor. Long small
+poles are then laid from the outside horizontal poles over the inner
+ones and sufficiently long to meet at the top within about two feet
+of each other, forming a hole for the smoke from the fire to ascend
+through. These long poles are laid pretty close together all around
+the building, and across them smaller ones are lashed with bark as in
+the first instance, only they are much closer together. The operation
+of lashing on a layer of long grass and finally covering the whole
+with earth, completes the roof of the building. The door or entrance
+is a long porch formed by placing in the earth four upright posts or
+crotches far enough apart to extend outwards from the circle, about 18
+or 20 feet. There are four upright crotches on each side the porch and
+in the crotches, poles are laid horizontally as in the other parts of
+the building. The process of lashing sticks across, then a thick coat
+of long grass and lastly a stout coat of earth, is the same as the
+other parts of the building. The roof of the porch is flat and is about
+seven feet high and six feet wide. The porch is dug down about half
+as deep as the main building, making a short step at the mouth of the
+porch and another one at the entrance into the house. The fire has been
+made in the center of the house directly under the hole in the roof.
+
+At the farther side of the building, exactly opposite the porch, is
+a projection of sod left about a foot from the outside of the circle
+which is said to have been the seat of the chief, and over which hung
+his medicine bag and other implements.
+
+The crotches are arranged so that there is a free passage to the center
+of the hall from the porch one standing on each side at the entrance
+about six feet apart and the others appear to be arranged from them.
+The smaller houses have not so many pillars as this one. Some have
+eight in the center and sixteen outside the circle. Others have four
+in the center and ten outside. The entrances are also smaller in
+proportion, but all are constructed on the same principle. It looks a
+little singular to note that nearly all the entrances to these lodges
+front to the southeast, except in one or two instances where they front
+in other directions for lack of room. It is probable that this is done
+to avoid the effects of the severe cold northwest winds so prevalent in
+winter.
+
+Adjacent to each lodge is a stable or pen, which has been designed for
+keeping horses in. These are mostly left unharmed. They are constructed
+by placing poles upright in the ground from two to three inches in
+diameter as close together as possible and about ten feet high. About
+five or six feet above the ground cross poles are laid horizontally,
+and each of the upright poles are firmly lashed to the cross poles by
+strips of bark, so as to make them firm and secure them from being
+moved out of their place. The stables are mostly built square, with
+a door left on one side sufficiently large to admit a horse. There
+are some circular stables but not so many as the square ones. The
+horses appear to have been penned in by placing loose poles across the
+doorway, for there is no other sign of a door visible.
+
+Around each lodge there are also several cachets where corn and other
+necessities are deposited. The cachets are large holes dug in the
+ground, or rather under the ground, the entrance being only just large
+enough to admit a common sized man. They are made pretty much after the
+shape of a large demijon. The cachets are generally about six feet high
+inside and about fifteen feet in diameter; there is a gradual slope
+from the mouth to the extreme corner and a little bowing, which forms
+the roof. The surface of the earth above, at the mouth, is about two
+and a half or three feet deep. Some of these are said to be capable of
+holding a hundred bushels of corn, and when filled there is a thick
+coat of grass laid on the top and the mouth then filled up nicely with
+earth, and when finished a stranger would not have the least suspicion
+that there was a storehouse full of corn under his feet.
+
+I finished taking the foregoing sketch soon after noon, and then had
+intended to go on the bluffs and examine the Indian graves, but it
+being very warm, and perceiving the teams crossing the river very
+rapidly, I returned, and found most of the teams over. They commenced
+crossing about eight o'clock, some unloaded their goods on the bank
+which were carried in the boat to the sand bar, the teams going down to
+the ferry to cross. After a few wagons had gone over, it was perceived
+that they went over with less difficulty, and by doubling teams they
+soon took over the loaded wagons without much difficulty. I prepared
+to wade over the river, inasmuch as the wagon I am with was gone over,
+and in fact, all Heber's wagons were over except one, but Jackson
+Redding brought me Porter Rockwell's horse to ride over, and I mounted
+and proceeded. I found the current strong indeed, and about as much as
+a horse could do to ford it without a load. I soon got over safe and
+wet only my feet. At 3:00 p.m. the last wagon was over on the solid
+sand bar, and about four o'clock all the wagons and teams were safely
+landed on the bank on the south side of the Loop Fork without any loss
+or accident, which made the brethren feel thankful indeed. A little
+before four, the wagons started on to find a better place to camp and
+feed for our teams, where we can stay comfortable until Monday and give
+the teams a chance to rest, for they as well as the men are very tired
+by wading against the strong current on the quick sand. The bottom
+land on this side is more sandy than on the other side, but the grass
+appears higher but not so thick on the ground. The bluffs on the other
+side look beautiful from here, and the Indian graves show very plain.
+We went on about three miles and camped beside a small lake near the
+river. I traveled this on foot. Soon as we arrived Porter Rockwell
+discovered that there were many sun fish in the lake. I took a couple
+of hooks and lines, handed some to him, and went to fishing myself
+with the others and we had some fine sport. I caught a nice mess which
+Brother Egan cooked for supper, and although they were small they made
+a good dish. Many of the brethren caught a good mess each. Brother
+Higbee came down with the seine and made two hauls but caught none on
+account of the grass in the bottom of the lake. We have good reasons
+to suspect that we are watched by the Indians as their footsteps have
+been seen on the bluffs south, apparently very fresh, but the guard are
+faithful and we have no fear. The cannon was prepared again so as to be
+ready in case there should be an attack. Evening I walked over to Orson
+Pratt's wagon, and through his telescope saw Jupiter's four moons very
+distinctly never having seen them before. I went over to my wagon and
+looked through my glass and could see them with it, but not so distinct
+as with Orson's. The evening was very fine and pleasant. About ten
+o'clock retired to rest in good health and spirits, thankful for the
+mercies of the day that is past.
+
+Sunday, April 25
+
+Arose soon after five, shaved and changed some of my clothing. The
+morning very pleasant, wind west. Our course for the last seven miles
+has been about southwest. We are about 14 miles from the main branch
+of the Platte river and it is said that if we travel on this fork one
+hundred miles farther, we shall then be not over thirty miles from the
+main branch. This morning saw four antelope on the other bank of the
+river about a mile and a half northwest. Afternoon Elijah Newman was
+baptized by Tarlton Lewis in the lake for the benefit of his health.
+Brother Newman has been afflicted with the black scurvy in his legs and
+has not been able to walk without sticks, but after being baptized and
+hands laid on him he returned to his wagon without any kind of help
+seemingly much better. Soon after 5:00 p.m. a meeting was called at the
+wagon of President Young, and remarks made by several, and instructions
+by President Young chiefly in reference to the guard and the folly
+of conforming to gentile military customs on an expedition of this
+nature. After dark the twelve and some others met together opposite
+the President's wagon to select men to go a hunting buffalo, etc., as
+we proceed on the journey. It was ascertained that there are eight
+horses in the company which are not attached to teams. Then eight men
+were selected to ride on horseback, viz., Thomas Woolsey, Thomas Brown,
+John Brown, O. P. Rockwell, John S. Higbee, Joseph Mathews. Then
+there were selected eleven men to hunt also on foot, viz., John Pack,
+Phineas H. Young, Tarlton Lewis, Joseph Hancock, Edmund Ellsworth,
+Roswell Stevens, Edson Whipple, Barnabas L. Adams, Benjamin F. Stewart,
+Jackson Redding and Eric Glines. It was also voted that the twelve have
+the privilege of hunting when they have a mind to. After some remarks
+and cautions in regard to chasing the wild buffalo, the company was
+dismissed, and I retired to rest soon after nine o'clock, the evening
+being very fine and pleasant.
+
+Monday, April 26
+
+This morning about 3:30 an alarm was sounded. I immediately got out of
+the wagon and learned that three of the guard who were stationed to the
+northeast of the camp had discovered some Indians crawling up towards
+the wagons. They first received alarm from the motions of one of our
+horses, and noticing this they went towards the spot and listening,
+heard something rustle in the grass; they first suspected they were
+wolves and fired at them. Only one gun went off and six Indians sprang
+up and ran from within a few rods of where they stood, another gun was
+then fired at them and the camp alarmed. A strong guard was placed all
+around, and a charge of cannister put in the cannon. The day was just
+breaking when this took place and the moon had just gone down. The
+air being extremely cold and fires put out, I retired into the wagon
+till morning and arose again at half past five. After daylight, the
+footsteps of the Indians could be plainly seen where they had come down
+under the bank and sometimes stepped into the water. No doubt their
+object was to steal horses, and they had a fair privilege if the guard
+had been found asleep, for the camp was only formed in a half circle
+and some horses were tied outside. However, the prompt reception they
+met with will have a tendency to show them that we keep a good watch
+and may deter them from making another attempt. Orders were given for
+the tens to assemble for prayers this morning, instead of two in each
+wagon, which was done. President Young told me this morning that as
+soon as my health will permit, he wants me to assist Brother Bullock in
+keeping minutes, etc., as Brother Bullock is hard run, having to take
+care of a team and attend to other chores.
+
+The camp started out about 8:00 a.m. I started at 7:30 on foot and
+traveled four miles, then waited for the wagons. There is no road here,
+consequently, President Young, Kimball, G. A. Smith, A. Lyman and
+others went ahead on horseback to point out the road. The horse teams
+traveled first to break the strong grass so that it will not hurt the
+oxen's feet. The hunters started out in different directions keeping
+only a few miles from the wagons. We traveled about seven miles and
+then stopped at 11:30 beside a few little holes of water to rest and
+feed teams, etc. From this place which is somewhat elevated, can be
+seen the remains of an old village or Indian fort, over the river about
+northwest from here. The country looks beautiful, somewhat rolling and
+bounded by uneven bluffs. The land looks poor and sandy. The sun is
+very hot and not much wind. I find it has a great tendency to make sore
+lips, parched up and feverish. At 1:45 all the wagons were on the way
+again. We traveled about seven miles. We crossed two slough or soft
+places though not very bad. They are the first since we left Winter
+Quarters. The roads are more uneven than on the other side the river.
+We had to make a new road all day. At 6:15 the encampment was formed on
+the east banks of a small creek with a very gravelly bottom. The wagons
+are formed in a deep hollow and so low that they cannot be seen at a
+quarter of a mile distance. There is no fresh grass here, neither has
+the old grass been burnt off. We have crossed a number of trails today
+which some say are buffalo trails. They all run towards the river, and
+in some places there are 8 or 9, others, not more than two, and so on,
+together running about a half a yard apart. The hunters have seen no
+buffalo. Woolsey killed a goose. There is no timber here, only a few
+small willows. We are about a half a mile from the river, and there
+doesn't seem to be much timber on the river. Our course today has been
+about southwest. About a mile back from this place situated on a high
+bench of land on the banks of the river is the remains of an Indian
+village, the houses or lodges being all down and no appearance of
+timber left. The entrances to these lodges all face to the southeast,
+the same as those back at the other village. There has evidently been a
+garden around the village as the land has been broken and bears marks
+of cultivation. This morning Brother Benson discovered that one of the
+iron axles of his wagon was broken, and he moved the load so that there
+was no weight on the part which was broken, and traveled with it all
+day. This evening the wagon was unloaded, the axle taken off, Brother
+Tanner's forge set up, and the axle welded and fixed ready to put to
+the wagon again. This was done in the short space of one hour after the
+encampment was formed. The welding was performed by Brother Burr Fost.
+About eight o'clock Joseph Mathews came into camp from seeking his
+horses and stated that an Indian had rode a horse off a little before
+and he supposed it was Brother Little's horse, which was missing. Dr.
+Richards' mare was also missing. Brother Mathews stated that he went
+out to seek for his black man who was out watching his teams, and as
+he arrived he saw Brother Little's horse as he supposed going towards
+the river. He ran towards it to turn it back to camp, but as soon as he
+commenced running the horse sprang to a gallop, which made him suppose
+there was an Indian on him although he could not see the Indian. As
+soon as he gave the alarm five or six of the brethren mounted their
+horses, and pursued on the course pointed out to the river, but could
+neither see nor hear a horse or Indian. When they returned, President
+Young and Kimball and a number of others went out on horseback and
+searched till near eleven o'clock, but likewise proved unsuccessful.
+The brethren have been repeatedly warned not to let their horses go far
+from their wagons, but every time we stop they can be seen around for
+more than two miles. These are two good horses and the owners feel bad
+enough, but it will be a warning to others to be more careful.
+
+Tuesday, April 27
+
+Arose soon after five. The morning fine and pleasant. During the night
+the guard fired twice but they supposed they were wolves they fired
+at. I went back to the old Indian village before breakfast, and also
+with O. P. Rockwell, to see if any tracks of the lost horses could
+be found. He followed one track some way into a bunch of willows, but
+having no arms we returned. At 7:45 the wagons commenced moving and
+traveled till 2:15 being about twelve miles nearly a south course, the
+design being to go to the main branch of the Platte. President Young,
+Kimball and others went forward again to point out the road. O. P.
+Rockwell and some others started back to hunt the horses about the time
+we started. The land today has been very rolling and uneven. It is also
+very sandy and dry. After traveling about four miles through dead grass
+we found a large space where the grass had been burned off. Here it is
+quite green, and there are quantities of buffalo dung, which proves
+that we are not far distant from some of them. The hunters have been
+out again but have not discovered any. There are a great many lizards
+on these sand ridges, but they are of a small size. President Young and
+Kimball discovered a dog town a piece back, and many little prairie
+dogs. In one hole was a very large rattlesnake, and around the holes
+many small owls which seem to correspond with what travelers have said
+previously, that the prairie dog, rattlesnakes, and owls all live in
+the same hole together. The sun is very hot but there is a nice west
+wind although it is dry and parches our lips. When we stopped at noon
+the brethren dug several holes and obtained a little water, as there is
+none here above the surface. They could not obtain any for the cattle
+and horses. At 3:15 the teams commenced to move again. Just as they
+started, John Brown, Roswell Stevens and Brother Woodruff all shot
+at an antelope. They all hit him and killed him. Having skinned it,
+they put it into one of the wagons. The afternoon was very hot and the
+roads very dusty. After traveling about two miles some of the ox teams
+gave out and had to stop and feed. The rest went on till they found
+a small branch of water and the grass being very good we stopped for
+the night at half past five, having traveled about four miles, course
+about south. President Young and several others went back with mules
+and horses to assist the teams up which are behind. Luke Johnson shot
+a very large rattlesnake and brought it to camp for the oil. Roswell
+Stevens killed a hare, the nearest like the English hare of any I have
+seen in this country. Soon after we arrived here it began to lightning
+and thunder and we had a light shower with a very strong wind. There is
+an appearance of more rain which is very much needed indeed. At 6:30
+O. P. Rockwell, Joseph Mathews, John Eldridge and Thomas Brown
+returned from hunting the two lost horses. They reported that they
+went back to within about two miles of where we encamped on Sunday and
+looking off towards the river they saw something move in the grass at
+the foot of a high mole. They proceeded towards it thinking it was a
+wolf, when within about twelve or fourteen rods Porter stopped to shoot
+at the supposed wolf. The moment he elevated his rifle, fifteen Indians
+sprang to their feet, all naked except the breech cloth, and armed
+with rifles and bows and arrows. Each man having a rifle slung on his
+back, and his bow strung tight in his hand and about twenty arrows.
+The Indians advanced towards them but the brethren motioned and told
+them to stop and held their rifles and pistols ready to meet them. When
+the Indians saw this they began to holler "bacco! bacco!" The brethren
+told them they had not tobacco. One of the Indians came close beside
+J. Mathew's horse to shake hands with Mathews but kept his eye on the
+horse's bridle. When nearly within reach of the bridle, Brown cocked
+his pistol and pointed at the Indian shouting if he did not leave he
+would kill him. At which, the Indian seeing the pistol ready to fire,
+retreated. The Indians made signs to get the brethren lower down the
+river, but the brethren turned their horses to come to camp, thinking
+it unsafe to go near to the timber where they expected more Indians
+lay in ambush. When the brethren turned to come back the Indians fired
+six shots at them with their rifles and the brethren immediately faced
+about at which the Indians fled towards the timber below. The brethren
+did not shoot at the Indians, even when the Indians shot at them. They
+saw the tracks of the horses which are missing and returned satisfied
+that Pawnees have got them, and no doubt intended to get the horses on
+which the brethren rode, but they met with too stern a reception to
+risk an attempt. Some of these same Indians were amongst those who came
+into camp when we stopped for dinner near their village, and proves
+that they eyed the horses pretty close, and also proves that they have
+followed us close ever since. The brethren ran great risks indeed, but
+got back safe to camp without harm.
+
+About the same time the brethren returned, a gun accidentally went
+off and broke the nigh fore leg of Brother Mathew's horse. Those who
+saw the accident state that when the rain came on, some of the men
+put their guns in John Brown's wagon, loaded and with the caps on.
+Brother Brown threw his coat on the guns, and soon after went to get
+his coat and plucking it up, some part of the coat caught the cock
+of the gun and raised it so that when the coat slipped off, the gun
+went off, and the ball struck the horse's leg on the back side about
+half way between the knee and upper joint. The bone was broke entirely
+off. There were several men and horses close by the wagon at the time.
+The wagon was set on fire, but soon put out with little damage. This
+makes four of the best horses lost within the last four days, but the
+last circumstance is by far the most painful, and breaks up Brother
+Markham's team. Brother Brown made Heber a present of a little antelope
+meat. About dark the wind moved to the north and blew strong a little
+while and we had a little more rain.
+
+Wednesday, April 28
+
+Morning fine and pleasant, no Indians. The wind blew strong from
+the northeast which makes it much cooler. There are many wolves and
+antelope around here, but no buffalo have been seen as yet. Orders were
+given this morning for no man to leave the wagons except the hunters.
+The brethren had to make a road down to the small creek near which
+we camped. This occupied till about nine o'clock, when the wagons
+commenced crossing; the last wagon crossed at ten o'clock and then the
+camp proceeded on, President Young, Kimball, and several others going
+before to point out the road while the wagons were crossing the creek.
+Brother Luke Johnson shot the horse dead which had his leg broke last
+night. The horse belonged to Brother Barney, but was in Markham's team
+and was a good one, but they concluded it was better to shoot her than
+leave her alone to the mercy of the Indians. Our course for the first
+seven miles was a little east of south over a very level prairie and
+green with grass. The largest wild onions grow here I have ever seen.
+After traveling about seven miles we turned southwest, being within
+a mile of the main Platte and opposite to Grand Island. We traveled
+till 2:30 and then stopped to feed, having come about eleven miles
+today. The roads are extremely dusty and the strong wind blows it into
+the wagons and everything is covered. We are now near to timber and a
+good chance for grass for the cattle. At 4:00 p.m. we moved again and
+traveled till six, having traveled about four miles, and during the
+day, about fifteen miles. We have camped about a quarter of a mile from
+the timber and there is plenty of grass to fill the stock tonight. The
+water is also clear and cool and good tasting. The evening is cloudy
+and very cool, which affects my head some. Suppered on some antelope
+and went to bed early.
+
+Thursday, April 29
+
+The wagons started at five o'clock this morning before breakfast, to
+find more grass as this is all eaten off. We traveled till 6:30 being
+about three miles, and then turned out the teams to feed. The morning
+very cool. There seems to be very little rain in this country and no
+dew. Breakfasted on goose and mouldy bread. At twenty minutes after
+eight, the teams started again and after traveling about two miles
+came to a very pretty stream of good water, (Wood River) about ten
+feet wide on an average, but at the fording place about a rod wide. We
+were detained some here, but all got over safely. We then traveled on
+a table or prairie gently ascending for four or five miles but very
+even and good traveling. At 1:00 p.m. we stopped beside a small lake to
+rest and feed teams, having traveled about ten miles today. The wind
+south and strong. One of Orson Pratt's horses is very sick, supposed
+to be the bots. He has lain down several times in the harness within
+the last three hours. I am not astonished, as the wagons and everything
+else is shrinking up, for the wind is perfectly dry and parching;
+there is no moisture in it. Even my writing desk is splitting with the
+drought. At 2:30 p.m. we started again and traveled till about 6:30
+over tolerable level prairie, distance about eight miles, and nearly a
+southwest course. The wind was strong from southwest till sundown and
+then turned to northeast. The clouds of dust were almost sufficient to
+suffocate everyone. I rode Heber's horse this afternoon and went before
+the wagons. Saw many antelope, and the brethren had a good chance to
+kill one, but they missed it, although three of them shot at it. We
+camped at night close to Grand Island where there is an abundance of
+rushes for cattle. There is also a white substance that seems to ooze
+out of the ground around here, and tastes like salt, but not so strong
+as common salt. Brother Orson Pratt's horse is better and the day has
+passed without accident.
+
+Friday, April 30
+
+Arose at half past five. Morning cool and pleasant. The teams have
+filled themselves with rushes. Started at 7:40 and soon after the camp
+started, I started ahead on foot and have traveled about five miles.
+The prairie level and green with grass. We travel on the first bench
+about three quarters of a mile north of the timber on Grand Island.
+There are many wild geese on the prairie, also buffalo dung, but
+none very recent. There are immense patches of blue grass which from
+appearances, the buffalo are fond of. There are also numerous patches
+of buffalo grass which is very short, thick on the ground, and curly
+like the hair on a buffalo's hide, and much resembling it, except in
+color. About a mile from where we camped last night, we passed a place
+where the Indians have camped no doubt during their hunt. They must
+have been very numerous for their camp has covered a number of acres of
+ground. President Young, Kimball and Lyman are gone ahead on horseback
+to look out the road. We have thus far followed the Indian trail, but
+it is now so grown over and so old it is scarce discernible. The wind
+blows strong from the north and the dust is very bad. The atmosphere is
+dull and cloudy. Our course today has been about west. At a quarter to
+twelve we stopped to feed beside a small creek of clear, good, water,
+having traveled about eight miles. The grass along this creek is long
+and plentiful. We are about a half a mile from Grand Island.
+
+Having the privilege of copying from Brother Bullock's journal, I will
+now record the names of the standing guard as organized April 16th,
+also the men selected by Brother Tanner to form the gun division as
+ordered Saturday, April 17th.
+
+Tarlton Lewis, Stephen H. Goddard, Seeley Owens, Thomas Woolsey, John
+G. Luce, Horace Thorton, Charles D. Barnam, Sylvester H. Earl, George
+Scholes, Rufus Allen, William Empey, John Holman, George R. Grant,
+William P. Vance, James Craig, Datus Ensign, William Dykes, John Dixon,
+Samuel H. Marble, Artemus Johnson, Norton Jacobs, Addison Everett,
+William Wordsworth, John W. Norton, Francis M. Pomroy, Lyman Curtis,
+Horace M. Frink, Erastus Snow, Hans C. Hanson, William C. A.
+Smoot, Barnabas L. Adams, Rodney Badger, Charles Burk, Alexander
+P. Chesley, Appleton M. Harmon, David Powell, Joseph Mathews, John
+Wheeler, Gillrid Summe, Mathew Ivory, Edson Whipple, Conrad Klineman,
+Joseph Rooker, Nathaniel Fairbanks, Ozro Eastman, Andrew S. Gibbons,
+William A. King, Thomas Tanner, Hosea Cushing, and John H. Tippets.
+
+The names of the gun detachment are as follows:
+
+Thomas Tanner, Captain; Stephen H. Goddard, Seeley Owens, Thomas
+Woolsey, John G. Luce, Horace Thornton, Charles D. Barnam, Sylvester H.
+Earl, George Scholes and Rufus Allen.
+
+At twenty minutes after ten o'clock started again, the wind blowing
+from the north tremendously strong, and clouds of dust arose from under
+the wagon wheels. It has turned very cold and gloomy. We traveled
+again over a level prairie some distance from the river and turned off
+to camp under the bench soon after 5:00 p.m. having traveled about
+eight miles, our course a little southwest. The wagons were formed in
+an imperfect circle in such a manner as to have all the wagon mouths
+from the wind, which took near an hour to form the encampment. We are
+about a mile from water and a mile and a half from timber, with very
+little grass for our teams. It is now so cold that every man wants his
+overcoat on and a buffalo robe over it. We have had no accident and the
+brethren feel well, some are wrestling to keep themselves warm. Some
+have had the good luck to bring a little wood with them but it seems
+as if many will have a cold supper. And some perhaps little or nothing
+as they have no bread cooked. Eight p.m., the camp have found a good
+substitute for wood in the dried buffalo dung which lies on the ground
+here in great plenty, and makes a good fire when properly managed.
+Brother Kimball invented a new way of building a fire to cook on and
+which is well adapted to the use of this kind of fuel. He dug a hole
+in the ground about 8 inches deep, 15 inches long and 8 inches wide.
+Then at each end of this hole he dug another about the same dimensions
+as the first leaving about 3 inches of earth standing between the
+middle and two end holes. At the end of these partitions he made a
+hole through about 3 inches in diameter to serve as a draught. In the
+bottom of the middle hole the fire and fuel was placed, and across the
+top two wagon hammers to set the pots and pans on, so that the fire
+could have free circulation underneath. By this method much cooking
+was done with very little fuel. To save the trouble of carrying water
+so far a well was dug in a short time about 4 feet deep and good water
+obtained. After supper I went and gathered some dried buffalo dung
+(politely called buffalo chips) to cook with in the morning. Brother
+Hanson played some on his violin and some of the brethren danced to
+warm themselves. I went to bed early to get warm but having only one
+quilt for covering, I suffered much with cold. Brother Kimball rode
+ahead again on horseback and suffered some from cold.
+
+
+
+May 1847
+
+Saturday, May 1
+
+The morning very cold indeed. Inasmuch as there is little grass for the
+cattle, the camp started out at 5:40 and traveled till a quarter after
+eight, six miles before breakfast. Soon after we started this morning
+three buffalo were seen grazing on the bluff about six miles distance.
+I could see them very plain with my glass. O. P. Rockwell, Thomas
+Brown and Luke Johnson started on horseback to try to kill some. Soon
+after they went, another herd of buffalo were seen to the northwest at
+the foot of the bluffs about eight miles off. I counted with my glass,
+72, and Orson Pratt counted 74. Three of the brethren went on their
+horses after the latter herd. I watched the movement with the glass
+and saw that sometime before the brethren got to them, the buffalo
+fled and were soon after out of sight. We stopped for breakfast close
+to Grand Island and at 10:15 proceeded again. After traveling four
+miles we arrived at a small lake on our right at twelve o'clock which
+evidently connects with the river in high water. A little previous to
+this time the hunters returned and reported that Luke Johnson shot at
+one and dropped him on his knees, but he got up again and ran after the
+herd. They did not get any, but saw more farther west and went to give
+chase to the latter herd. When they got near them, they turned down
+under the bluffs and joined the herd chased by the last hunting party.
+Luke lost his cap and could not find it again. Brother Higbee said he
+could have shot one, but Woolsey told him to hold on and pick out a
+good one. They being pretty near, selected a cow and designed both to
+shoot at her, but while they were making their plans the herd started
+and they missed their chance. About the time the hunters returned,
+another still larger herd was discovered still farther west, also at
+the foot of the bluffs. The President stopped near the above mentioned
+lake and selected eleven men to go and give chase to the last seen
+herd and he gave them their instructions. Although they were at least
+eight miles from us, I distinctly counted 101 with my glass and amongst
+them many calves. This being the first day buffalo has been seen on
+our journey and in fact the first ever seen by any except about five
+or six of the brethren, it excited considerable interest and pleasure
+in the breasts of the brethren, and as may be guessed, the teams moved
+slowly and frequently stopped to watch their movement. When the hunters
+were within a mile or two from the herd, two of the dogs gave chase
+to an antelope, which made directly towards the buffalo. One of the
+dogs chased it till it went into the midst of the herd and when the
+buffalo saw the dog, they commenced to canter into a closer huddle.
+The dog, however, evidently frightened with their savage appearance,
+stopped and retraced his steps. About this time Elder Kimball seemed to
+get inspired with the idea of chasing the buffalo and he immediately
+called for Egan's fifteen shooter and started with it on full gallop.
+After the dog returned the buffalo did not move much from the place
+and the hunters moved gently along till they got pretty near them, at
+which time Heber joined, just as the herd discovered them and commenced
+galloping off. The brethren's feelings who were left with the wagons
+were now strung up to the highest pitch, a feeling of exciting interest
+appeared to prevail throughout the camp, they having heard and read
+so much of the mad ferocity of the buffalo when hotly pursued, and
+knowing that all the hunters were inexperienced in regard to hunting
+the wild buffalo. While they felt for the safety of the hunters, they
+still desired to see as much of the chase as the distance would allow,
+and were wishful that the chase might be successful as a number have
+no meat and a piece of fresh meat would taste good to all men and save
+our bread stuff, and the desire to taste the much famed buffalo meat
+created a longing desire to see some of the herd fall. Soon as the herd
+commenced galloping off, the hunters followed in pursuit at full gallop
+and soon closed in with them. At this time I got my glass and rested
+it on Brother Aaron Farr's shoulder, determined to see as much of the
+chase as possible. I soon discovered O. P. Rockwell ride into
+the midst of the herd which then appeared to number over 200, others
+having come in sight when the herd commenced to run. Porter was soon
+enveloped in the cloud of dust caused by the heavy tramp of the buffalo
+on the dry sandy ground, but in a very short time the herd began to
+separate and scatter in every direction, a small party coming down
+the bluff again and some running west under the bluffs, others going
+over. The hunters closed in on the first party and commenced their
+fire, especially at one cow which they finally succeeded in separating
+from all the rest, and determined to keep to her until they killed
+her, except Porter, who as soon as he had wounded her, left her with
+the hunters and pursued some of the rest. The cow was now in close
+quarters and after she had been shot through two or three times, Elder
+Kimball rode close to her with his fifteen shooter and fired over his
+horse's head, she dropped helpless and was soon dispatched. At the
+report of the gun which was very heavy loaded, Elder Kimball's horse
+sprang and flew down the bluff like lightning and he having let go the
+lines to shoot, her sudden motion overbalanced him and his situation
+was precarious to the extreme. The other hunters saw his situation and
+trembled for his safety but could render him no assistance. However,
+being a good horseman, he maintained his position in the saddle and
+soon succeeded in gaining the lines and by a vigorous effort succeeded
+after some time in reining in his horse and returned to the rest
+unharmed and without accident. All this movement passed about as quick
+as thought, and as soon as they saw the cow dead and all right they
+again followed in pursuit of the remaining buffalo. About this time
+three of the herd separated from the rest and came in a direction
+towards the camp on a gallop. President Young seeing this, ordered a
+halt, and the wagons to get close together lest the buffalo should,
+in their fury and excitement, venture to go between the wagons and do
+much mischief. However, they were discovered by some of the hunters
+nearer the camp and some foot men who gave chase to them changed their
+course when within about a mile from the camp. At this time I had a
+very good view of their shape, color and appearance when running which
+I shall endeavor to describe hereafter. Elder Kimball arrived in time
+to aid in the chase of these three which lasted some time. The hunters
+made choice of a large and very furious bull, and worked with him
+some time, shooting him through several times but all this did not
+seem to impede his progress. O. P. Rockwell said he had heard it
+said that a buffalo could not be hurt with a ball shot at his head.
+Having a fair chance with this one, he determined to satisfy himself,
+and (previous to his being wounded) gaining a little in advance came
+right in front within about a rod of him and discharged his rifle
+pistol which struck the center of his head, but with no other effect
+than to make it smoke a little, some dust fly and the raving animal
+shake savagely. The brethren, John S. Higbee and John Pack, soon after
+succeeded in dropping him and laid him dead at their feet, John Pack
+being the one that dropped him. During all this, other scenes were
+passing of equal interest. One of the calves was discovered within a
+few rods of the wagons, a shot fired at it and it was soon caught by
+the dogs, killed and put into a feed box. Porter chased another calf
+to within a mile of the camp previous to his chasing the bull. Some
+of the footmen surrounded and dispatched it, and soon after brought
+and put it in one of the wagons. Other brethren were still away at the
+bluffs, but we had no certainty of their success until Elder Kimball,
+John Pack, and several others came up to the camp after dispatching
+the bull and reported two other cows killed and three calves. This
+was a little before 5:00 p.m. When it was ascertained for a certainty
+that one was killed, the revenue cutter was unloaded and sent to fetch
+it to camp. It was reported that two other cows and three calves were
+killed. When Elder Kimball and others came up to the camp, President
+Young requested some of the brethren to unload their wagons and go and
+fetch the others reported to be killed, while the wagons would strike
+towards the river and camp for the night. The chase lasted from soon
+after 1:00 until 4:00 p.m. Soon four wagons were unloaded, the brethren
+having their loads on the ground in care of a guard, and were ready
+to start out. Having a great desire to see a buffalo in his natural
+state, my feet being very sore, and the distance to the bluffs being
+over three miles, I got into Brother Aaron Farr's wagon, he being one
+who unloaded to fetch in the meat, and we started for the one shot down
+by Elder Kimball, he and O. P. Rockwell following on horseback.
+On our route, we met Luke Johnson and two other hunters returning.
+Luke had a calf tied on his horse, himself on foot. When we arrived at
+the cow, we found that three of the brethren had come on foot and had
+already got the hide off, except the head. She was soon cut in two, put
+in the wagon with the rest of the meat, hide and head, and we started
+for the next cow which was about three quarters of a mile distant. This
+cow would probably weigh on foot, about 700 pounds. She was not very
+fat, but the meat looked nice and clean. When we arrived at the next
+cow, we found several of the brethren at work with her, they had got
+her hide off and soon had her in the wagon. We then proceeded to camp
+and got in soon after sundown. The meat was unloaded in the semi-circle
+opposite the President's wagon and placed on the hide which was spread
+on the ground for the purpose of keeping it clean. The brethren's
+faces beamed with joy to see the meat begin to come into camp, and
+with some astonishment to view the size and ferocious appearance of
+the head, which still had the hide on. Soon after the other wagons
+came in and each deposited its load in the same place. Joseph Mathews
+came in about the same time and reported that he had killed another
+calf after chasing it three miles, making the total number killed in
+the first day's buffalo hunt by the Camp of the Latter-day Saints,
+already reported as follows: one bull, three cows and six calves, a
+circumstance far exceeding our expectations and best hopes, and all
+without the slightest accident or loss to man or property, except Luke
+Johnson's cap and a ramrod to a rifle. There is, however, one shade
+of suspense caused by the intelligence that Joseph Hancock has not
+returned to camp. He started out on foot when the three buffalo were
+first discovered this morning and has not been seen or heard of for
+sometime. Considerable fear is entertained for his safety from the fact
+that he is lame, and it is evident, or at least considered so, that
+there are Indians near because a large smoke as of prairie burning has
+been seen all the afternoon within some six or eight miles to the west
+and must have been set on fire by somebody and the probability is, it
+is Indians, although none has been seen for several days. The meat was
+cut up into quarters and distributed one quarter to each company of
+ten, leaving some to be distributed in the morning, and in a short time
+every fire was loaded with it, and the camp had a good feast on the
+fruits of today's labors.
+
+Soon after the hunters started out at noon we came to a long range
+of dog towns and saw many of the little prairie dogs playing around
+their holes. The extent of this dog town is yet unknown, for we have
+traveled over, and parallel with it about five miles this afternoon,
+and they seem to extend still farther west. In some places the town
+is nearly two miles broad, in others not so much, and must contain
+thousands of the little dogs. I could not get near enough to see their
+form distinctly, for they are so quick into their holes when anything
+approaches, you can only have a partial view of them. They appear to be
+about as long as a common grey squirrel but more chunky, a larger body
+and chubbed head. The tail is short, more resembling that of a dog,
+their color light brown. Their bark resembles the chirp of an English
+throstle, and something like the chirp of a squirrel. They appear to
+live on grass as it is all eaten off close to the ground throughout
+the extent of their dog town, and the ground looks naked and barren
+as a desert. Several of the brethren shot at the dogs but failed in
+killing any. We had a north wind this afternoon and cold weather, our
+course being nearly west over a level prairie, not far distant from the
+island. Since noon we traveled about eight miles, and the encampment
+was formed at half past six o'clock near a small lake about a mile
+above the head of Grand Island. The grass is not so good here as it
+has been back, and but a poor chance for the cattle, etc., to fill
+themselves.
+
+The appearance of the wild buffalo at a distance is somewhat singular.
+The color of the back and about half way down the sides is a light
+brown, the rest is a very dark brown. The shoulder appears slightly
+rounding and humped. When running, the large shaggy head hangs low
+down, about half way in height between the ground and the top of
+the shoulder. They canter like any ox or cow, but appear far more
+cumbersome and heavy, especially about the fore parts, which look
+larger than they really are on account of the long, thick matty hair.
+They run tolerably fast, but a good horse will easily gain on them.
+They will run a long time without diminishing their speed. Their meat
+is very sweet and tender as veal.
+
+Sunday, May 2
+
+This morning is fine but cold. Ice about half an inch thick. Sometime
+in the night a buffalo and calf came within a short distance of the
+wagons. The guard discovered them and shot at the calf, wounding it
+in the hind leg. They caught it alive and tied it up near the wagons
+but concluded finally to kill and dress it. About six o'clock we
+were gladdened to see Joseph Hancock come into camp with a piece of
+buffalo meat. He reported that he killed a buffalo yesterday back on
+the bluffs, and there being no one with him he concluded to stay by it
+over night. He made a fire and scattered a little powder around his
+buffalo to keep off the wolves. Some visited him during the night, but
+were awed by the fire. After he had told his story and taken breakfast,
+Brother Hancock started in company with four or five other brethren to
+fetch in the meat on horseback, as no wagons could get over the bluffs
+to it. They found that the wolves had devoured much of it, but the
+balance they brought along with them. They also killed two antelope and
+brought them into camp. The total number of buffalo now caught is five
+large ones and seven calves. Edmund Ellsworth killed one of the prairie
+dogs, and brought it to camp. It looks much like a squirrel, only the
+body is thicker and the tail short and no bush on it. The day grew
+pleasant till about noon, when it became cloudy and cold. President
+Young, Kimball and others started out to look out a camp ground where
+better feed can be obtained for our stock. They returned a little after
+two and gave orders to go on a few miles. There have been a number of
+buffalo seen in different directions, one grazing within three quarters
+of a mile from camp, but orders were not to hunt or shoot today. At
+three-fifteen the camp started and traveled two miles over dog towns
+as yesterday. At a little after four p.m. we camped beside a long lake
+of shoal, clear water near the banks of the Platte. This lake is about
+three rods wide and connects with the river. The Platte appears about
+two miles wide at this place but very shoal and muddy. There is no
+timber but plenty of grass, mostly last year's growth. The weather is
+more temperate and the wind ceased. President Young, Kimball and others
+went on to look out a crossing place over this lake, etc. On their way,
+they fell in with a buffalo cow and calf and chased them some to get
+a view of them but not to kill. On their return they said we should
+tarry here tomorrow and have some blacksmith work done and probably
+hunt some. Half of the hide off the bull's face was brought into camp.
+On examination I found the mark where Porter shot at his head. The ball
+made a small hole, barely cutting through the outer surface or grain
+of the hide which was near an inch thick. The hair near the top of the
+head is about a foot long.
+
+Monday, May 3
+
+This morning cold and ice in the water pails. The hunters are going
+out on foot. Tanner and Davenport are fixing their forges to do some
+repairing, shoeing, etc. At about nine the hunters, twenty in number,
+started out with two wagons which had been unloaded for the purpose.
+At the same time, fifteen of the brethren on horseback started west
+to examine the route, etc. At two-thirty the party who went to look
+out the route returned and reported that Brother Empey had discovered
+a large war party of Indians while he was chasing an antelope. The
+Indians are in a hollow about twelve miles distance and about three
+hundred in number, some on their horses and some standing beside them
+holding the bridle. The company also saw nearly twenty scattered
+Indians about four miles from here. When this report was made, orders
+were given to dispatch a number of the brethren on horses, well armed
+to warn the hunters and tell them to come to camp. In about half an
+hour, twenty-three men started out on this mission. Before they reached
+the bluffs which are about four miles from here, some of the hunters
+were on their way to camp, having seen only one buffalo during the day.
+In a little time all the hunters were notified and were on their way
+back. They arrived about six o'clock, having got three antelope, and
+the horsemen who went after them got two calves which were all brought
+in and the day passed without accident. Some of the brethren saw some
+objects at a distance, which, by their motions they were satisfied were
+Indians. The day has been fine but cool and cloudy, with occasionally
+a few drops of rain. A number of wagon tires have been set and other
+blacksmithing, washing, drying meat, etc., done. The wind near south.
+The cannon was unlimbered at night and prepared for action in case it
+should be needed.
+
+Tuesday, May 4
+
+The morning fine but cool, wind about southwest. Two horses ran east as
+much as six or eight miles and were pursued by the brethren and brought
+back. William Smoot was thrown from a horse and his senses knocked out
+of him by the fall. He soon recovered and appears to have sustained no
+injury.
+
+At seven-thirty the camp was called and received instructions from
+President Young, especially in regard to leaving the wagons and
+scattering off hunting without counsel. He strongly urged the brethren
+not to do it any more and said if they did, some of them would be
+caught by the Indians and if not killed would be severely abused. The
+instructions and regulations given April 17th were read and enjoined
+upon the camp to be observed more strictly. It was decided that the
+cannon wagon should be unloaded, the box put on another wagon so
+that the cannon can be always ready for action. An addition of ten
+volunteers was made to the standing guard and ordered that all horses
+and mules should be tied inside the circle at night, and the cattle
+and cows outside within a few rods of the wagons. A guard to be placed
+around the cattle when turned out to graze. It is thought best to
+travel with the wagons four abreast and the cannon to go in the rear.
+
+At nine o'clock the wagons commenced moving and passed over the lake
+near its junction with the river, at which place it is about ten or
+twelve feet wide.
+
+After traveling about a half a mile the camp stopped some time, waiting
+for some wagons behind. While stopping, three wagons were discovered on
+the opposite bank of the river, considered to be traders going back to
+Council Bluffs. The river is about two miles wide and no person here
+acquainted with it, consequently no one attempted to go over, which
+many desired. About eleven o'clock we proceeded, five wagons abreast
+so as to be better prepared for defense should the Indians attack us.
+After traveling about two miles, one of the men from the wagons on the
+other side the river overtook us and we halted to see him. He said
+there are only nine of them. They have been to Fort Laramie for furs
+and are going to Council Bluffs. This is the sixteenth day since they
+left the fort with ox teams. He says the road is good on the other
+side and the river easily forded, being not more than knee deep in
+the deepest place and a good bottom. He cheerfully agreed to carry
+letters back for us but could not wait long. I wrote one to my family
+and in about half an hour a pretty large mail was made up to send back
+to Winter Quarters, and may the Lord grant that it may arrive safely.
+Brother Johnson bought a buffalo robe of the man for about a pound and
+a half of coffee, and another brother bought one for a pound of sugar
+and a little pork. I feel my mind relieved by this unexpected privilege
+of writing back to my dear family and hope they will have the pleasure
+of perusing the contents.
+
+At twenty minutes after one the bugle sounded for a march, and the
+messenger is returning with the letters and a bag of provisions on his
+shoulder which the brethren have given him for carrying the letters.
+We traveled about four miles farther and at three-thirty, stopped to
+let the teams feed on a small spot where the fire has not touched, the
+rest having all been burned off within a few days. We have traveled
+today only about six miles, having stopped much. The country is still
+very level and nice traveling only for the dust. The wind south and our
+course nearly west. When the trader went back over the river, Thomas
+Woolsey, John Brown and John Pack accompanied him on horses to speak
+with a person whom Brother Woolsey is acquainted with. They returned
+soon after we stopped to feed and say that the river is very good to
+cross, not being more than two feet deep in the deepest place, and the
+bottom good. The horses broke through but very little. The traders
+say furthermore, that if we continue on this side, we shall have to
+cross the river twice where the water is much deeper and cannot be
+crossed only in a ferry. There is a good traveled road also, which
+would be an advantage we have not got on this side. During the time we
+stopped to feed, a guard was placed around the cattle and horses to
+keep them from straying far from the wagons. Then men were called out
+and drilled with their loaded guns in the circle formed by the wagons.
+Some objects are seen grazing about four miles west of us thought to be
+buffalo. Thirteen in number. Some of the hunters are going out to give
+them a chase, and try to kill some of them. At a quarter after five
+o'clock, the camp was called together and Brother Brown reported what
+the traders said about the route, etc., as above. The subject was then
+talked over and when it was considered that we are making a road for
+thousands of saints to follow, and they cannot ford the river when the
+snow melts from the mountains, it was unanimously voted to keep on this
+side as far as Fort Laramie at least. Soon after this we started on
+again. Saw a lone buffalo but a short distance from us but it galloped
+across the river. Saw also a number of antelope and some deer. About
+seven o'clock we passed a spot where the Indians have camped and must
+have been many of them. A while after sundown we arrived at a creek of
+good water and camped for the night, having traveled about nine miles
+today. The prairie level but all the grass burned off, except in small
+patches. We have camped on a small spot which has escaped the fire.
+Elder Kimball, who was one of the hunters who started out at four
+o'clock, said the objects seen from camp were antelope, but he had seen
+a herd of buffalo about a mile ahead of where we now are. He named this
+creek, Buffalo creek.
+
+Wednesday, May 5
+
+The morning fine and very pleasant. Saw two small herds of buffalo a
+few miles from camp. At seven-thirty continued our journey. I went
+on foot about two miles and then stopped to count the horses, mules,
+oxen, etc., and afterwards walked on again to the first wagons. Here
+Elder Kimball offered me his horse to ride. I then went ahead with the
+horsemen. We soon after came to a very bad slough and had to bear off
+to the north to find a place to cross it. The prairie after we crossed
+this slough about a mile wide from the river was very soft and it was
+necessary to bear still farther to the north. The horses' feet cut
+through the sod and the ground appeared wet under, although there has
+been no rain for some time. At eleven-thirty we stopped to feed on a
+small patch of unburnt grass, having come about nine miles, course
+about west, with a very strong south wind. There were two buffalo
+within about a half a mile from camp, grazing. Some of the brethren
+went to view them, but the orders of the day are not to kill anything
+which the men cannot carry to camp. There are no appearances of Indians
+near except the prairie which is still burning ahead of us, supposed
+to be set on fire by them. About one p.m. continued our journey and
+traveled till three p.m., when some of the hunters came in, bringing a
+live buffalo calf, also one they had killed. They reported that John
+Brown, Jackson Redding and John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson had each killed
+a calf, the one killed by Brother Higbee having previously been shot by
+Amasa Lyman. Joseph Mathews killed a cow and Elder Kimball, O. P.
+Rockwell and John S. Higbee chased the one brought in alive until a dog
+seized it and Porter left his horse and caught it without shooting at
+it and led it to camp. The revenue cutter was unloaded and sent after
+the cow and calf left, they being about three miles off. We traveled on
+about a half an hour and found the prairie all in a blaze. President
+Young and Kimball thinking it unsafe to risk the wagons near the fire,
+ordered the camp to go back a half a mile to an island where we can
+have water for our teams and be secure from the fire. The prairie is
+all burned bare and the black ashes fly bad, making the brethren look
+more like Indians than white folks. There is some feed on the island,
+and the cattle easily ford the stream to it. The calf is tied in the
+circle. When a dog goes near it, it will attack the largest and they
+flee from it, though not more than six or eight weeks old. About half
+past six the revenue cutter arrived with the meat, which was fatter
+than any we have had. They also brought in another calf which they
+killed while out for the cow, making a total of one cow and six calves
+brought into camp today. The meat was divided amongst the companies of
+ten, each having either a calf or half a quarter of a cow.
+
+Thursday, May 6
+
+This morning at five-fifteen, President Young called to the camp and
+proposed to go on to where we can find feed for the teams. The brethren
+assented and he gave orders to start as quickly as possible. However,
+some must feed their teams a little corn, some milk their cows, etc.,
+and it took till near six-thirty to get started. During the night the
+Lord sent a light shower of rain which has put the fire out except in
+one or two places and made it perfectly safe traveling. We have had a
+strong southeast wind through the night but the morning is calm and
+pleasant. We traveled about two miles and stopped on the unburned grass
+to feed at a quarter to seven. Several antelope were surrounded by
+the brethren and some shot at them, killing one. The rest made their
+escape. We can see several large herds of buffalo within about two
+miles of the camp and many calves amongst them. President Young and
+Kimball rode ahead to find a place to stop for feed. The ground is
+hard and good traveling. At a quarter to nine, proceeded on, President
+Young and Kimball going ahead to point out the road. Our course about
+northwest, the wind strong from west. We traveled near the river. Saw
+thirteen elk together, also many antelope and numerous herds of buffalo
+on both sides of the river. Jackson Redding shot an antelope which Luke
+Johnson chased near the wagons.
+
+A young buffalo calf followed Luke to camp, but the President advised
+him to leave it as it is only a few days old. We stopped near the river
+at a quarter to twelve, having traveled about six miles. We find a
+little more grass here, but the numerous herds of buffalo keep it eaten
+off close to the ground nearly all the way we have traveled today. The
+President gave orders that no more game should be killed until further
+orders. It appears we have got as much meat in camp as can be taken
+care of. While we were stopping for noon, some of the cows moved off
+towards a large buffalo herd, and when President Young and Kimball
+started ahead after dinner they discovered the cows near the buffalo.
+Brother Woolsey went to turn them back, but he had to run his mule
+some distance before he could prevent the cows from mingling with the
+buffalo. They brought the cows back to the wagons and then proceeded
+ahead again. One part of the horsemen's business today has been to
+drive the buffalo out of our track, judging it unsafe to risk them
+between the wagons and the river. The camp proceeded on at one-thirty
+and in about two miles distance found a lake of clear water. Here we
+discovered the horsemen coming back, and found that the President had
+lost his large spy glass, while chasing the cows from the buffalo herd,
+a second time. He did not find it. We traveled slowly this afternoon,
+some of the horses and oxen having given out in consequence of lack
+of feed to sustain them. We traveled till six-thirty and camped near
+some islands in the river, having traveled about seven miles this
+afternoon and fifteen through the day, our course a little west of
+northwest. Wind about west. Some think we have traveled eighteen, some
+twenty and some even twenty-five miles today, but from the number of
+times we stopped and the slowness with which the teams moved, I feel
+satisfied that fifteen miles is plenty. About three quarters of a mile
+back we saw a buffalo cow which appears to be sick. She fought the dogs
+some time and then lay down, and the brethren went close to her, some
+venturing to feel and handle her. I was within six or eight feet of her
+and had a good view, as much as I wanted. She has lost all her hair
+and looks very poor and weak. The President ordered that the brethren
+leave her and not disturb her and she was left lying down, but it is
+doubtful the wolves will kill and eat her before morning. When the
+brethren went back to hunt the spy glass they found that the wolves
+had killed the calf and nearly eaten it up. What they had not eaten,
+they carried off with them. We have never been out of sight of herds of
+buffalo today, and from where we are camped, I am satisfied we can see
+over five thousand with the glass. The largest herd we have yet seen is
+still ahead of us. The prairie looks black with them, both on this and
+the other side of the river. Some think we have passed fifty, and some
+even a hundred thousand during the day, or have seen them. It is truly
+a sight wonderful to behold, and can scarcely be credited by those who
+have not actually seen them.
+
+Friday, May 7
+
+This morning the wind northwest and almost as cold as winter. The
+buffalo vastly numerous all around. About eight a.m. the camp was
+called together and measures taken to raise more teams to put to the
+canyon as some of the horses and even cattle have given out. The
+President chastised Elder Snow for not attending to the cows yesterday
+causing the President to lose his spy glass, it being Brother Snow's
+turn to drive the cows according to his own voluntary agreement. At a
+little before eleven o'clock, Porter Rockwell, Thomas Brown and Joseph
+Mathews started back to hunt the spy glass, and soon after they left,
+the camp proceeded onward. The day was cloudy and very cold. Our course
+about northwest. We traveled about seven miles and camped at two-thirty
+near several small islands, on the banks of the river. About four p.m.,
+Porter and the others returned, having found the spy glass, which was
+a source of joy to all the brethren. At six-thirty the companies were
+called out to drill. I have been very sick all day with a complaint and
+have suffered much.
+
+Saturday, May 8
+
+Morning cold but fine. Started out at nine o'clock and traveled till
+one p.m., distance seven and a half miles, course a little west
+of northwest. The prairie on both sides of the river is literally
+black with buffalo, and to try to say as to what number we have seen
+this morning would be folly. I should imagine that at a moderate
+calculation, we have seen over fifty thousand. They are more tame than
+they have been, and will stand till the wagons come within two hundred
+yards of them. Porter has shot one about two years old, the meat looks
+nice. There is no difficulty in getting meat enough. It is with some
+difficulty that the horsemen can drive them away from the track as
+fast as the wagons come up. It is very warm today, and no wind. I have
+counted the revolutions of a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance
+we have traveled. The reason why I have taken this method which is
+somewhat tedious, is because there is generally a difference of two and
+sometimes four miles in a day's travel between my estimation and that
+of some others, and they have all thought I underrated it. This morning
+I determined to take pains to know for a certainty how far we travel
+today. Accordingly I measured the circumference of the nigh hind wheel
+of one of Brother Kimball's wagons being the one I sleep in, in charge
+of Philo Johnson. I found the wheel 14 feet 8 inches in circumference,
+not varying one eighth of an inch. I then calculated how many
+revolutions it would require for one mile and found it precisely 360
+not varying one fraction which somewhat astonished me. I have counted
+the whole revolutions during the day's travel and I find it to be a
+little over eleven and a quarter miles, twenty revolutions over. The
+overplus I shall add to the next day's travel. According to my previous
+calculations we were two hundred eighty-five miles from Winter Quarters
+this morning before we started. After traveling ten miles I placed a
+small cedar post in the ground with these words written on it with
+a pencil. "From Winter Quarters, two hundred ninety-five miles, May
+8, '47. Camp all well. Wm. Clayton." Some have past the day's travel
+at thirteen and some fourteen miles, which serves to convince more
+strongly that the distances are overrated. I have repeatedly suggested
+a plan of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance
+we travel in a day, and many begin to be sanguine for carrying it into
+effect, and I hope it will be done. Our course this afternoon has been
+northwest, no wind and the prairie as bare as a poor English pasture,
+the grass being eaten off by uncountable herds of buffalo. No pen nor
+tongue can give an idea of the multitude now in sight continually, and
+it appears difficult to keep them away from the wagons. Two calves
+have been killed and brought to camp and multitudes would be killed
+if the President did not prohibit the brethren from killing them only
+as we need the meat. Truly, the Lord's cattle upon the thousand hills
+are numerous. We are now camped on the banks of the river within a
+quarter of a mile from where the range of bluffs, which have appeared
+exceedingly ragged all day, strike the river, and when we move again we
+have got to cross over them. President Young and Kimball have been back
+on the bluffs on foot some distance and report that as far as they can
+see the grass is eaten perfectly bare and the prospect for feed for our
+teams is poor indeed. There are several buffalo lying dead around here,
+whether dead from old age or by the hands of hunters or of starvation,
+it is unknown. Many of the brethren have to cook their victuals on dry
+buffalo dung, there being no wood near.
+
+Sunday, May 9
+
+The morning very cold with wind southeast. At seven-fifty we proceeded
+on three and a half miles, going a little around some of the bluffs
+until we turned down on a low bottom and very sandy. We have camped
+near some islands and can get wood and water, but poor feed for the
+teams. We arrived here at nine-fifty and shall stay till morning.
+Soon as the camp was formed, I went about three quarters of a mile
+below to the river and washed my socks, towel and handkerchief as well
+as I could in cold water without soap. I then stripped my clothing
+off and washed from head to foot, which has made me feel much more
+comfortable for I was covered with dust. After washing and putting on
+clean clothing I sat down on the banks of the river and gave way to a
+long train of solemn reflections respecting many things, especially in
+regard to my family and their welfare for time and eternity. I shall
+not write my thoughts here, inasmuch as I expect this journal will have
+to pass through other hands besides my own or that of my family but if
+I can carry my plans into operation, they will be written in a manner
+that my family will each get their portion, whether before my death or
+after, it matters not.
+
+The day is very warm and the wind has moved to the west. According to
+my calculations, we are now 300 miles from Winter Quarters, lacking a
+few rods. I got a small board and wrote on it: "From Winter Quarters
+three hundred miles, May 9, 1847. Pioneer Camp all well. Distance
+according to the reckoning of Wm. Clayton." This was nailed on a post
+and in the evening I went and set it up about three hundred yards from
+here on a bend of the river. Spent the afternoon reading and writing
+in Elder Kimball's journal. At three p.m. a meeting was called and the
+camp addressed by several. President Young took tea with Elder Kimball,
+and afterwards they started out together with one or two others to
+look at the country ahead of us. They went a few miles and found a
+small stream which we shall have to cross. Here they saw multitudes of
+buffalo coming to water. Porter and Phineas Young went within six or
+eight rods of them to try to get one, but in the whole herd, they could
+not find one fit to kill. They are very poor, for there is no feed for
+them, and in fact they are so numerous that they eat the grass as fast
+as it springs. There are, however, some good cottonwood groves and
+good water at the stream. After sundown the wind blew strong from the
+northwest and the evening was cold and chilly.
+
+Monday, May 10
+
+The morning fine but cool. The wind nearly ceased. Last night I
+dreamed that I was in company with the camp which was stopping beside
+a considerable river of deep water. Our horses and cattle were tied
+to stakes all around the camp to the distance of a quarter of a mile,
+some good timber thinly scattered around. I thought President Young,
+Kimball and several others started up the river in a flat boat without
+stating their object, leaving the brethren to guard the camp, cattle,
+etc. in their absence. When they had been gone sometime I thought a
+large herd of buffalo came on full gallop right amongst our horses and
+cattle, causing them to break their ropes and fly in every direction.
+The brethren seemed thunderstruck and did not know what to do. Seeing a
+small skiff in the river, I sprang into it, and a paddle lying in it,
+I commenced rowing in pursuit of the President. It seemed as though I
+literally flew through the water passing everything on the way like a
+railway carriage. In a few minutes I overtook the brethren in the flat
+boat, took the skiff and threw it on shore and to my astonishment I
+saw that the skiff was made only of barks and cracked all over, and
+it seemed impossible to put it in the water without sinking it. The
+paddle with which I had rowed proved to be a very large feather and I
+had another feather in my left hand with which I steered the skiff.
+When I got into the flat boat, I made known what had passed in the
+camp, but the brethren seemed no ways alarmed. I awoke and behold, it
+was all a dream. Dr. Richards is going to deposit a letter in a stick
+of wood prepared for the purpose near this place in such a manner that
+the next company will discover it. He fixed it on a long pole and being
+assisted by President Young and others raised it and fixed it firm in
+the ground. His distance from Winter Quarters three hundred and sixteen
+miles. At nine five the camp proceeded onward. After traveling two
+miles we crossed a small creek which Elder Kimball named Skunk creek,
+easily forded, though the ground was soft on the west side. About this
+time the brethren at the head of the camp discovered a strange horse
+alone on the prairie. Porter and Thomas Brown gave chase to try to
+catch it. Brother John Brown states that when the Mississippi company
+passed on the other side last season, one of the brethren lost a mare
+and two colts, and this is supposed to be the oldest of the two. When
+Brother Woolsey and Tippets came through from the battalion last winter
+they saw the same horse near here. We traveled till twelve five and
+finding a little better feed stopped for dinner having traveled a few
+rods over six miles. The last two miles was over very soft prairie and
+although the last year's grass has not been burned, the wheels cut
+through the sod frequently. At the creek four miles back, some of the
+brethren shot a buffalo which was brought into camp in the revenue
+cutter. The meat is said to be good and the fattest we have had. At
+two we continued our journey. About the same time Porter and Brown
+returned having failed to catch the horse. After traveling about half
+a mile we crossed a very bad slough, and beyond that for a mile the
+ground was wet and soft. The teams began to give out, and at half past
+four o'clock, the President ordered the wagons to strike for the timber
+which was a little out of our course, but necessary to favor the teams
+and obtain wood and water. We arrived near the timber and camped at
+four fifty, having traveled since my last guide post a little over
+nine and three-fourths miles, the last two miles the ground being dry
+and good traveling. Some of the hunters killed a deer and we had some
+venison for supper. Our course a little north of west. Light wind from
+northwest. The day warm and pleasant. We have a little better feed for
+cattle, and on the island plenty of brouse for horses, better timber
+than we have had for some time past. It appears plain that vast herds
+of buffalo have wintered here, but have mostly left and gone eastward
+sometime ago, and we have the full growth of this year's grass which
+is small indeed. The grass evidently springs later the farther west we
+travel, and nature seems to have taught the wild cattle this lesson,
+hence their eastward progress. There are some scattering herds of
+buffalo around, but not nearly so numerous as they were some thirty
+miles back. The face of the country here is indeed beautiful, the soil
+rich on the bottoms, the ragged bluffs on each side of the river have
+a splendid appearance, and at about ten miles distance, west of where
+we now are, they seem to circle around until they form a junction. It
+appears evident also, that we are above the junction of the north and
+south forks of the Platte, the north fork running nearly northwest and
+the south fork southwest. Brother Woolsey says these are the forks
+in reality, but are connected some miles higher up by a slough, and
+consequently the land between is set down by travelers as the main land
+rather than as an island.
+
+Tuesday, May 11
+
+The morning cold. Wind east; camp well. At 7:00 a.m. went with a number
+of the brethren who were going to dig some wolves out of a hole about a
+quarter of a mile from camp. They dug out four and brought them alive
+to camp. They are probably six or eight weeks old and about the size
+of an English hare, very vicious. At half past nine the camp moved
+onward over a very nice level, dry prairie for five miles. Amongst the
+timber on the island could be seen many small cedar trees. At the end
+of five miles, we had to pass over a small ridge of low, sandy bluffs,
+which extended to the river. After passing nearly over the bluffs we
+stopped half an hour to water the teams and eat a little dinner, then
+proceeded on three miles farther and passed over a creek of clear
+water, but this could not be very good in consequence of so many dead
+buffalo lying in it. We proceeded on half a mile, and finding tolerably
+good feed, stopped for the night, having traveled eight and half miles
+today. Weather fine, wind south and southeast; course a little west
+or northwest. We have seen few buffalo today, but there are signs
+of thousands having wintered in the neighborhood. The country looks
+beautiful, soil rich, only lacking timber. After the camp was formed,
+it being half a mile to water, the brethren dug two wells, and about
+four feet deep found plenty of good water. One of the wells is reported
+to run a pail full a minute. Brother Appleton Harmon is working at the
+machinery for the wagon to tell the distance we travel and expects
+to have it in operation tomorrow, which will save me the trouble of
+counting, as I have done, during the last four days. Took supper on
+some duck presented to Elder Kimball by George Billings.
+
+Wednesday, May 12
+
+Morning cool, weather fine. Brother Appleton Harmon has completed the
+machinery on the wagon so far that I shall only have to count the
+number of miles, instead of the revolution of the wagon wheel. We
+started at 9:10, the first mile pretty soft, the rest tolerably hard
+and very good traveling. We have passed over vast beds of salt, or
+rather dust with a salt taste. It looks something like dirty flour.
+Traveled eight miles in four hours and two minutes, and stopped at
+12:48 to feed, nearly opposite two small islands. The feed tolerably
+good. Our course northwest. Considerable strong wind from southeast
+covering everything in the wagons with dust and sand. No timber on the
+bank of the river and but little on the islands. The hunters report
+that they have seen many dead buffalo between here and the bluff with
+the hides off and tongues taken out, a strong proof that Indians have
+been here very recently, as the flesh looks fresh and lately killed.
+The range of bluffs on each side the river extend much farther apart,
+and near the foot of the south range can be seen timber scattering
+along, which is an evidence that the south fork ranges in that
+direction, although some are sanguine that we have not yet arrived at
+the junction.
+
+At half past three we moved on again and traveled four miles, camped
+at a quarter to six near a bunch of small islands, and a kind of bayou
+projecting from the river. Our course this afternoon a little south of
+west, having come around a considerable bend in the river. The land
+good and good traveling. Wind southeast. Several of the brethren caught
+a number of small fish in the bayou or lake. The feed here is rather
+scanty. Heavy clouds are rising in the west and northwest, and a fair
+prospect for some rain which is much needed. It is now certain that we
+are about fourteen and a half miles above the junction of the north and
+south forks of the Platte, and although we have to make a new road all
+the way, we find no obstacles so far. Brother Woodruff reports that he
+has been beyond the bluffs north of the camp and saw upwards of 200
+wickeups where the Indians have camped very recently.
+
+He found a cured buffalo skin and some pieces of other skins also. The
+hunters killed a two year old buffalo and brought it to camp. Brother
+Orson Pratt reports that when we were five and a half miles back, we
+were in latitude 41° 9' 44".
+
+Thursday, May 13
+
+This morning cold and cloudy, cold enough for overcoats and buffalo
+robes. The buffalo which was killed yesterday was cut up and divided
+this morning amongst the companies of tens. Some feelings are manifest
+this morning between Brothers Thomas Tanner and Aaron Farr on account
+of the former taking the latter prisoner and putting him under a
+guard part of the night. Perhaps Aaron was a little out of order in
+conversing loud after the horn blew for prayers, but I think Brother
+Tanner's angry spirit more blameable. At 9:00 we moved onward nearly
+a west course four miles and at 11:00 stopped to feed teams at a spot
+which is a little better than we generally have. The wind strong from
+north and northeast.
+
+At half past twelve we proceeded on again and traveled till four
+o'clock, distance six and three quarters miles. At this distance we
+arrived at a stream about six rods wide which appears to come from
+the northeast, the water in appearance like the Platte, the bottom of
+the river quick sand. Water in the middle about two feet deep; at the
+sides quite shoal. It appears that travelers have never discovered this
+stream for it is not noticed in any works that we have seen. We crossed
+it without difficulty and camped on its banks. The weather cloudy and
+very cold, with a strong north wind. Presidents Young and Kimball rode
+ahead as usual to look out the road. They report that the bluffs half a
+mile west come clear to the river and are considerably high. They found
+several ranges of them and finally found a valley running between some
+of the ranges through which we can pass by going about a mile around
+from our course. This stream according to measurement, twenty-five and
+one quarter miles above the junction of the two forks and 341 miles
+from Winter Quarters, by estimation. President Young named it the North
+Bluff Fork. A while before we arrived here four of the brethren went to
+chase a few buffalo which were lying down at the foot of the bluffs,
+but they did not get any. Presidents Young and Kimball saw a very large
+rattlesnake near the river. Brother Kimball says the largest he ever
+saw in his life. I saw a small green snake today, very pretty, the back
+light green and the belly a pale yellow. Presidents Young and Kimball
+suffered severely with cold while riding over the bluffs to look for a
+road. Had to use buffalo dung for cooking, there being no timber.
+
+Friday, May 14
+
+The morning cloudy and very cold. In the west could occasionally be
+seen streaks of lightning and distant thunder heard. At 8:00 a.m. the
+dark clouds having approached nearer, it commenced raining pretty
+hard, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The President ordered the
+horses got up just before the rain commenced; and after the storm
+ceased, we started onward at a quarter past ten. After traveling about
+a mile we passed among and around the high bluffs, our course lying
+nearly in a north direction for some time, then turning south and
+on again approaching the river, nearly southeast. When within about
+three quarters of a mile from the river, we stopped to feed at twenty
+minutes to two, having traveled six and a quarter miles. We have got
+on the level bottom again and are probably not more than three miles
+in a direct line from where we started this morning. Presidents Young
+and Kimball went forward to point out the route, which is very good to
+travel, although considerably uneven. Brother Higbee killed an antelope
+and wounded another which made its escape while he was loading his
+rifle. We have better feed here than we have had for some time. We had
+a little more rain just as we came to a halt. We have not had much wind
+this morning but it is now increasing from the north. It is somewhat
+warmer than this morning. The atmosphere cloudy and looks as if we
+might have more rain. The land between the two forks for about 25 miles
+is perfectly flat and very level without timber.
+
+The bluffs there rise suddenly, apparently in a line from fork to
+fork. There are many buffalo back in the valleys between the bluffs,
+and although there is no sign of the prairie having been burned, it
+is evident the buffalo have kept it eaten clean off, but have moved
+back and east, probably since the Indians have been hunting them. Some
+of the brethren have discovered fresh tracks where the Indians have
+gone up this north stream, evidently very lately. But we are satisfied
+the Lord hears the prayers of his servants and sends them out of the
+way before we come up to them. At three o'clock we proceeded on our
+journey, keeping above the lower prairie, which appeared soft and
+swampy. Our road was very uneven. We went two and a half miles and
+at half past four stopped to learn the report of those gone ahead to
+look out the road. There is another high range of bluffs about half
+a mile west of us, extending to the river. Elder Kimball went across
+the several ranges of bluffs to the west side, and hunted for a road
+in various directions, but there did not appear to be any possibility
+of finding a road between the bluffs, without going many miles around.
+President Young and he concluded it would be best to camp where the
+wagons are and in the morning cross right over the bluffs by doubling
+teams. Accordingly the encampment was formed about five-thirty, the
+train having traveled eight and three quarters miles today. Our course
+this afternoon nearly west, wind southeast. The feed for our teams
+grows much better, and on one of these high sandy bluffs I saw a large
+bed of flowers, not unlike the violet, and very rich. The sand on the
+bluffs in some places looks like large drifts of snow, and in other
+places seems to have deep chasms as if wasted by heavy rains. The
+atmosphere is still cloudy but not so cold as it has been. The hunters
+have killed two buffalo, three antelope and one badger during the day,
+which will be very acceptable. It was dark when the hunters returned to
+give the information. The revenue cutter was sent after the meat which
+was reported to be a mile and a half distant. It was late when they
+returned. There was an alarm made by the guard in the night supposing
+the Indians were near. The camp were aroused to secure their horses,
+but we had no further trouble about them.
+
+I discovered that Brother Appleton Harmon is trying to have it
+understood that he invented the machinery to tell the distance we
+travel, which makes me think less of him than I formerly did. He is not
+the inventor of it by a long way, but he has made the machinery, after
+being told how to do it. What little souls work.
+
+Saturday, May 15
+
+This morning is very cloudy and very cold, more like a January morning
+than a May morning. The wind blows strong from the northeast. The
+brethren who killed the buffalo did not bring it to camp last night,
+but put it in the boat and left it till morning. About half past seven
+they brought it in and divided it to the captains of ten. At eight
+o'clock it commenced raining again but abated a little before nine. At
+nine o'clock we commenced moving and after traveling three-quarters of
+a mile began to ascend the sandy bluffs. It commenced raining again and
+it looks like rain for all day. It is very cold, the wind continues
+strong. The road was much of a zig zag over the bluffs, but only about
+a mile before we descended to the bottom. We traveled a piece farther
+and at half past ten o'clock it was considered best to turn out the
+teams until it ceases raining, after traveling two and a quarter miles.
+We found it unnecessary to double teams while crossing the bluffs and
+we got over without difficulty, much better than we had anticipated.
+About noon it again ceased raining and the signal was given to harness
+up teams. At half past twelve we proceeded and traveled till a quarter
+to three, distance four and a half miles, then formed the encampment
+in a circle about a quarter of a mile from the river. The road has
+been level but soft and wet, however not bad traveling. The bluffs are
+about half a mile to the north and several herds of buffalo grazing on
+them. Some of the hunters are gone to try and get some meat. The wind
+still keeps up, and is cold, damp and uncomfortable. The feed appears
+better here than we have had for some days, and the cattle soon fill
+themselves which is a comfort and blessing to the camp. Some of the
+brethren have been lucky enough to pick up a few sticks and dead wood
+but our chief dependence for fuel is dry buffalo dung which abounds
+everywhere, but the rain has injured it some for burning. About two
+miles back we passed a place where the Indians have lately camped
+during their hunt. It is plain that whole families are amongst their
+number as the foot prints and moccasins of children have several times
+been seen. They evidently make use of the buffalo dung for fuel, and
+for seats, they dig up sods and lay them in a circle around their
+fire which is in the center. We have passed a number of these little
+temporary camping spots this afternoon. The reason why we did not
+travel farther was that Elder Kimball being gone ahead to look out the
+road, etc., he found as he came near the next bluffs that the feed is
+all eaten off by the numerous herds of buffalo and found also, that we
+shall have to travel over the bluffs and they appear wide and would be
+impossible for the teams to get over them tonight, hence the necessity
+of stopping here where we have good feed. The soil on this prairie
+looks good and rich but there is no timber. In fact there is none in
+sight, except a small grove on the other side the river about two miles
+west of the camp. Late at night Porter Rockwell came in and reported
+that he killed a buffalo. The cutter was sent for it to bring it to
+camp. Our course this afternoon nearly west.
+
+Sunday, May 16
+
+Morning fine, but chilly and cold. Wind north. Eric Glines killed an
+antelope near the camp which was cut up and distributed. Soon after
+breakfast, President Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff and Benson went on
+horseback to look out the best road over the bluffs. They returned at
+half past twelve and reported that we can pass through a valley between
+and around the bluffs, which will be about four miles across them.
+About 5:00 p.m. several buffalo were seen making their way from the
+bluffs towards our horses, some of which were very near them. Brother
+Eric Glines started out with the intention of driving the buffalo away,
+and bringing the horses nearer camp. When he got near, the buffalo did
+not seem much disposed to move and he shot at one of them and wounded
+him. He moved a little farther and Brother Glines followed him and shot
+three times more at him. The buffalo then ran about forty rods, fell,
+and soon expired. I went to look at him. He is a large one, judged to
+weigh about 700 pounds, and in pretty good order. I left the brethren
+skinning him and returned to camp where a meeting had been called at
+5:00 p.m., and the brethren addressed by Elders Richards, Markham,
+Rockwood and Kimball, chiefly on the subject of obeying counsel, and
+Elder Kimball remarked in regard to hunting on the Sabbath. He would
+not do it even in case of necessity, but he did not feel disposed to
+find fault with the brethren. The laws and regulations for the camp of
+April 18th were then read by Brother Bullock and the meeting dismissed.
+About noon today Brother Appleton Harmon completed the machinery on
+the wagon called a "roadometer" by adding a wheel to revolve once in
+ten miles, showing each mile and also each quarter mile we travel, and
+then casing the whole over so as to secure it from the weather. We are
+now prepared to tell accurately, the distance we travel from day to
+day which will supersede the idea of guessing, and be a satisfaction
+not only to this camp, but to all who hereafter travel this way. I
+have prepared another board to put up here on which the distance from
+Winter Quarters is marked at 356¾ miles. I have also written on it that
+the last seventy miles are measured, and we shall continue to measure
+and put up guide posts as often as circumstances will permit through
+the journey. The whole machinery consists of a shaft about 18 inches
+long placed on gudgeons, one in the axle tree of the wagon, near which
+are six arms placed at equal distances around it, and in which a cog
+works which is fastened on the hub of the wagon wheel, turning the
+shaft once round at every six revolutions of the wagon wheel. The upper
+gudgeon plays in a piece of wood nailed to the wagon box, and near this
+gudgeon on the shaft a screw is cut. The shaft lays at an angle of
+about forty-five degrees. In this screw, a wheel of sixty cogs works on
+an axle fixed in the side of the wagon, and which makes one revolution
+each mile. In the shaft on which this wheel runs, four cogs are cut
+on the fore part which plays in another wheel of forty cogs which
+shows the miles and quarters to ten miles. The whole is cased over and
+occupies a space of about 18 inches long, 15 inches high and 3 inches
+thick.
+
+After the meeting was dismissed, the cutter was sent to fetch the
+meat in, killed by Brother Glines. They soon returned and the meat
+was distributed as usual. Presidents Young and Kimball have walked
+out together towards the bluffs. After supper Elder Whipple made me
+a present of a half a candle made from buffalo tallow, by the light
+of which I continue this journal. Although, as may be expected, the
+buffalo are generally poorer at this season of the year, yet Brother
+Whipple has obtained sufficient to make two candles from his portion
+of meat received yesterday morning. The candle burns very clear and
+pleasant. The tallow smells sweet and rich. I imagine it has a more
+pleasant smell than the tallow of domestic cattle.
+
+Monday, May 17
+
+The morning very cold and chilly, wind northwest. Dr. Richards left
+another letter on the camp ground for the benefit of the next company.
+The letter is secured from the weather by a wooden case, and placed so
+that the brethren can hardly miss finding it.
+
+We started on our journey at 8:13 a.m. After traveling a mile and a
+half, we arrived at the foot of another range of bluffs which extend to
+the river, and began to ascend about a quarter of a mile north from the
+river, the road also turning to the north. A quarter of a mile farther,
+we crossed a stream of spring water about three feet wide. The road for
+a little distance on both sides the stream is rough, sandy and crooked.
+We then turned westward, and passed over a number of bluffs as there
+was no chance to go around them without going miles out of our course.
+On these sandy bluffs, there are very many small lizards about four or
+five inches long from nose to the end of the tail, which is an inch and
+a half long. The body looks short and chunky and is of a light grey
+color with two rows of dark brown spots on each side of the body which
+make it appear striped. The head is shaped something like the head of
+a snake. They appear perfectly harmless and are pretty in appearance.
+After traveling two and a quarter miles beyond the last mentioned
+stream, we arrived at the west foot of the bluffs. The last part of the
+road very sandy and there are several very steep places of descent.
+However all the teams got safely over without difficulty. At the west
+foot of the bluffs, there appears more grass than anywhere we have
+yet been, although the buffalo have eaten it off considerably. Within
+a quarter of a mile from the bluffs, we crossed two small streams of
+spring water and at a mile from the foot of the bluffs, we crossed a
+stream of spring water about four feet wide with a very rapid current.
+The whole of this bottom seems full of springs and we have to keep near
+the bluffs to make a good road to travel, and in fact, we find it more
+or less soft and springy even close to the bluffs. A mile and a quarter
+west of the last mentioned spring is another small stream of very clear
+spring water. The others are rather muddy by running over sandy land.
+They all appear to have their rise in the bluffs a short distance from
+our road. At 11:35 we stopped to feed having traveled this morning,
+six and three quarters miles. Our course west, weather fine, warm, and
+little wind. While we were resting, one of President Young's horses
+(in care of Phineas) mired down in a soft slough. A number of men soon
+collected and with a rope dragged it out, washed and rubbed it, and all
+was well again. Latitude 41° 12' 50".
+
+At two o'clock, we proceeded onward. After traveling a half a mile, we
+arrived at a very shoal stream of clear water about thirty feet wide
+but not over three inches deep in the channel which is about three feet
+wide. We forded it very easily and then passed over a short range of
+low sandy bluffs about a quarter of a mile wide and then entered on
+level prairie again, but we found it very soft and springy. Within two
+and a half miles from the last mentioned stream we passed two others,
+one very small, the other about four feet wide. They both doubtless
+rise from springs at the foot of the bluffs. About ten minutes after
+three o'clock, word arrived that a buffalo was killed by the hunters
+about a mile from the road. Two men were sent to skin and dress it.
+About the same time the revenue cutter arrived with two more buffalo,
+one said to have been killed by Luke Johnson and the other by John
+Brown, also an antelope killed by Amasa Lyman. The wagons halted at
+a quarter to four, took the meat out of the boat, which immediately
+returned to fetch the other buffalo which was killed by Porter
+Rockwell. The meat was cut in quarters and put into the wagons and at
+half past four o'clock we again moved onward and traveled till 5:50
+p.m. and camped on a nice dry bottom prairie where the grass is shorter
+than that we have passed all day. We traveled this afternoon six miles
+and during the day twelve and three quarters, about a west course. We
+are some distance from water but several wells were soon dug and good
+water obtained at about four feet deep. Soon after we camped the boat
+came in with the other buffalo and the meat was all distributed equally
+around the camp, but it appears that some have already got more than
+they need and feel unwilling to take a good forequarter. The bluffs
+on the opposite side the river project to the river for some distance
+opposite this place. Latitude 41° 13' 20".
+
+Tuesday, May 18
+
+The morning fine and very pleasant. At seven o'clock the President
+called the captains of tens to his wagons and gave them a pretty severe
+lecture. He referred to some who had left meat on the ground and would
+not use it because it was not hind quarter. Some would murmur because
+a fore quarter of meat was alloted to them, etc., which is not right,
+for God has given us a commandment that we should not waste meat, nor
+take life unless it is needful, but he can see a disposition in this
+camp to slaughter everything before them, yea if all the buffalo and
+game there is on our route were brought together to the camp, there are
+some who would never cease until they had destroyed the whole. Some men
+will shoot as much as thirty times at a rabbit if they did not kill it,
+and are continually wasting their ammunition, but when they have used
+all they have got, they may have the pleasure of carrying their empty
+guns to the mountains and back, for he will not furnish them. We have
+now meat enough to last some time if we will take proper care of it. As
+to the horsemen, there are none with the exception of Brothers Kimball,
+Woodruff and Benson, that ever take the trouble to look out a good road
+for the wagons but all they seem to care about is to wait till their
+breakfast is cooked for them, and when they have eaten it, they mount
+their horses and scatter away, and if an antelope comes across the
+track, the whole of us must be stopped perhaps half an hour while they
+try to creep up near enough to kill it, but when we come to a bad place
+on the route, all the interest they have is to get across the best
+they can and leave myself and one or two others to pick out a crossing
+place and guide the camp all the time. Such things are not right, and
+he wants them to cease and all take an interest in the welfare of the
+camp, be united, and receive the meat as a blessing from God and not as
+a stink offering from the devil. It is not necessary to preach to the
+elders in this camp, they know what is right as well as he does, and he
+will not preach to them all the time. Let the captains do the best they
+know how and teach their men to do likewise. The meeting dispersed,
+the meat was taken care of and at a quarter past eight we started out
+again, and traveled three and a quarter miles nearly a west course
+over a very hard prairie and good traveling and then arrived at a nice
+stream, Rattlesnake creek, about twenty or twenty-five feet wide, a
+foot or 18 inches deep and a very strong current. This stream must take
+its rise some distance back in the bluffs or else is supplied from many
+strong springs, for there is much water comes down it. We traveled on
+from this near the bank of the river about a northwest course over
+tolerably rough land till 11:10 and then stopped to feed having come
+six and a half miles this morning, the weather very hot. Opposite the
+stream last mentioned on the south side the river, are several pine
+groves, or rather cedar groves. There is some little pine wood, such
+as knots and dead branches that can be picked up on the banks of the
+river. It has floated from above. This, with a little buffalo chips,
+makes a good fire for cooking. Latitude noon 41° 3' 44". Rattlesnake
+creek was so named from the following incident: President Young, as he
+rode up to the banks of the creek discovered that his horse stepped
+within a foot of a very large rattlesnake. He turned his horse away
+without harming it. Soon afterward, one of the brethren came up on foot
+and stepped within two feet and a half of it. It immediately coiled up
+and sprang at him and would have struck him (as it sprang 2½ feet) had
+he not jumped to one side. He took his rifle and shot the snake dead.
+
+The head of Cedar Bluffs, as named by Fremont, is three miles west of
+where we camped last night. At 1:05 p.m. we continued our journey.
+Our route lay near the banks of the river which seems narrower here.
+After traveling three and a half miles, we crossed a stream about six
+feet wide, and three quarters of a mile farther another stream of
+tolerably deep, clear water about five feet wide. This stream is very
+crooked and seems to run from the bluffs to the river in a perfect
+serpentine or zig zag direction. Soon after starting this afternoon, we
+discovered some dog towns, the grass eaten perfectly bare all around.
+The feed is growing worse again, evidently eaten up by the buffalo. At
+noon, a heavy black cloud arose in the west and we had a little rain,
+accompanied by lightning and distant thunder. After passing the last
+mentioned creek about a mile, we had to change our course to nearly
+northwest on account of a bend in the river. We traveled till 5:30
+and formed our encampment on the west bank of a running stream about
+eight feet wide and one foot deep which is five miles from the crooked
+creek, making our afternoon's travel nine and a quarter miles and the
+day's travel fifteen and three quarters. The bluffs and the river here
+are about a quarter of a mile apart, the river very wide, feed poor,
+plenty of float wood, pine and cedar, for fuel. The weather calm and
+warm, though cloudy. After encampment was formed, went with Elder Orson
+Pratt to Dr. Richards' wagon to enter into arrangements for making
+a map of our route. The doctor wants me to do it, assisted by Elder
+Pratt's observations. He handed me Fremont's map, and I retired to my
+wagon to commence operations, but soon found that the map does not
+agree with my scale nor Elder Pratt's calculations. I then proposed to
+Elder Pratt to wait until we get through the journey and take all the
+necessary data and then make a new one instead of making our route on
+Fremont's. The subject is left here till morning. After supper I took
+my candle and finished this day's journal. At dark Colonel Markham
+called the camp together to tell the brethren their duty in regard
+to traveling, guarding teams, and standing guard at nights. The old
+laws of April 18th were talked over and additional by-laws added, but
+not being present I did not hear them, neither can I learn anything
+from those who were present, for they all say that there were so many
+little matters touched upon, and so many resolutions passed that they
+remembered only one--and that is, when any man goes out of the
+sound of the horn to fetch in his team, and sees another man's horse
+or mule or ox, a little beyond or near his, he shall drive it also to
+camp, and if he neglect to do so, he shall be sent back to do it even
+if it requires an escort to make him. About seven o'clock the wind
+shifted around to the north and blew strong and cold.
+
+Wednesday, May 19
+
+It has rained a little most of the night and still looks gloomy, cloudy
+and like for a rainy day. Inasmuch as the feed is not good here, it
+was thought best to move on before breakfast a few miles and seek
+better feed. We started out at 5:05, the second division having the
+right to lead, but a part of the first division being ready a little
+before all the second were ready, they rushed on their teams, drove
+fast and those of the second division behind had to leave the track
+and run their teams to take their places. We traveled two and three
+quarters miles, our course eleven and one fourth degrees north of west,
+and then crossed a stream three feet wide, and one quarter of a mile
+farther crossed another four feet wide. Our route lay within about
+one quarter of a mile from the bluffs and a mile from the river which
+takes a bend south from where we camped last night and runs close to
+the bluffs on the south side. We then turned our course to a little
+west of northwest as the river bends again to the bluffs on this side,
+and traveled a quarter of a mile farther and halted for breakfast at
+6:20, having traveled three and a quarter miles. The main body of the
+camp have stopped a quarter of a mile back, being three miles from
+where we started this morning. The road is mostly sandy, tall grass of
+last year's growth. The two streams we passed seem to form many ponds
+of clear water extending at short distances from each other from the
+bluffs to the river. Elder Kimball has been ahead over the bluffs to
+look out the road. It continues to rain a little occasionally with
+light north wind. Elder Kimball found that the bluffs project entirely
+to the river and are very sandy, but we can cross them without going
+out of our course. At twenty minutes to nine, we proceeded onward a
+little and then waited till the rest of the wagons came up. At the
+distance of nearly a mile and a half, we crossed a stream about twenty
+feet wide, not very deep, neither very good to cross, and exactly at
+the distance of a mile and a half, we arrived at the foot of the bluffs
+and began to ascend without doubling teams. Some of the teams stuck by,
+but by the assistance of the extra men, they all got up. The bluffs
+are very high, sandy and rough, and the sand cuts down considerably,
+making it heavy on teams. These bluffs are three quarters of a mile
+from the east foot to the west foot following our trail which is nearly
+straight. About 200 yards from the west foot of the bluffs, we crossed
+another stream five feet wide. It has rained heavily all the time
+since we started after breakfast and continues. Consequently at half
+past ten the camp formed into platoons and then halted to wait for
+more favorable weather, having traveled six miles today over the worst
+road we have had from Winter Quarters, rendered worse, doubtless, by
+the heavy rains. About half past two the weather looked a little more
+favorable and orders were given to move on. We started at five minutes
+to three, about which time it again rained heavily. We traveled two
+miles and then formed our encampment in a semi-circle on the banks of
+the river, having traveled two miles and through the day, eight miles.
+The first mile this evening was over very soft prairie, the last hard
+and good. The rain still continues to pour down heavily and this has
+been the most uncomfortable day we have had and the hardest on our
+teams. The brethren, however, feel well and cheerful. The ox teams are
+improving in their condition, but the horses do not stand it as well.
+The stream at the east foot of the last mentioned bluffs was named
+Wolf creek from the following circumstance: When Elder Kimball went
+ahead this morning to search out a road, he went up the creek about a
+mile and around over the bluffs to find, if possible, a better road
+than the one close to the river. While he was searching, about a mile
+north from the river he went down into a deep hollow surrounded by high
+bluffs and as he was riding along at the bottom, he turned his head
+to the left and saw two very large wolves at about five rods distance
+gazing at him. One of them he said was nearly as large as a two year
+old steer. When he saw these he looked around on the other side and saw
+several others about the same distance from him, very large ones, and
+all gazing fiercely at him. This startled him considerably, and more
+especially when he reflected that he had no arms. He made a noise to
+try to scare them away but they still stood, and he concluded to move
+away as soon as he could. They did not follow him and he saw a dead
+carcass near, which satisfied him that he had interrupted their repast.
+On mentioning this circumstance to President Young, they named the
+creek "Wolf Creek." He traveled back and forth over ten miles searching
+out a road before breakfast. He also went out again afterwards and
+got badly wet. He then concluded to change his clothing and remain
+in his wagon. The evening is very cool and cloudy with wind from the
+northeast. The rain had ceased about six o'clock, but it still looks
+stormy.
+
+Thursday, May 20
+
+The morning fair, but cloudy, light wind from northwest and cold. At
+7:45 we started out again but had not traveled over a quarter of a
+mile before the roadometer gave way on account of the rain yesterday
+having caused the wood to swell and stick fast. One of the cogs in
+the small wheel broke. We stopped about a half an hour and Appleton
+Harmon took it to pieces and put it up again without the small wheel.
+I had to count each mile after this. Three quarters of a mile from
+where we camped, we crossed a creek eight feet wide and two and a half
+feet deep. We then changed our course to about southwest a mile or so
+following the banks of the river, as the ground was wet and swampy
+nearer the bluffs. The river then winds around about three miles in a
+bend and then strikes a little north of west. The bluffs on the north
+appear to be about two miles from the river. We traveled till 11:15 and
+then halted to feed, having traveled seven and three quarters miles
+over tolerably good road, though at the commencement somewhat soft. On
+the opposite side the river, the bluffs project near its banks. They
+are rocky and almost perpendicular, beautified for miles by groves of
+cedar. Opposite to where we are halted, we can see a ravine running up
+the bluffs and at the foot, a flat bottom of about fifteen acres. At
+the farther side of this bottom is a grove of trees not yet in leaf.
+Brother Brown thinks they are ash and that the place is what is called
+Ash Hollow and on Fremont's map, Ash Creek. We all felt anxious to
+ascertain the fact whether this is Ash Hollow or not, for if it is,
+the Oregon trail strikes the river at this place, and if it can be
+ascertained that such is the fact, we then have a better privilege of
+testing Fremont's distances to Laramie. We have already discovered that
+his map is not altogether correct in several respects, and particularly
+in showing the windings of the river and the distance of the bluffs
+from it. I suggested the propriety of some persons going over in the
+boat and Brother John Brown suggested it to President Young. The
+boat was soon hauled by the brethren to the river, and Orson Pratt,
+Amasa Lyman, Luke Johnson and John Brown started to row over, but the
+current was so exceedingly strong the oars had no effect. John Brown
+then jumped into the river which was about two and a half feet deep
+and dragged the boat over, the others assisting with the oars. After
+some hard labor they arrived on the opposite shore and went to the
+hollow. They soon found the Oregon trail and ascertained that this is
+Ash Hollow, Brother Brown having traveled on that road to near Laramie
+last season with the Mississippi company and knew the place perfectly
+well. They gathered some branches of wild cherry in full bloom, rambled
+over the place a little while and then returned to camp. About the same
+time the camp prepared to pursue their journey. The brethren arrived
+and made their report, and at 1:45 p.m. we proceeded onward. From the
+appearance of the bluffs ahead, our course this afternoon will be west
+and northwest. A light breeze from northwest. Soon after we started,
+one of the brethren killed a large rattlesnake within a rod of the road
+made by the wagons and on the side where the cows travel. He killed it
+to prevent its injuring the cows and threw it away from the road. In
+the river one and a quarter miles above Ash Hollow, there are several
+small islands on which grow many trees of cedar. One of these islands
+is perfectly green over with cedar and looks beautiful. The bluffs also
+on the south side the river continue to be lined with cedar apparently
+for two miles yet and are very high and almost perpendicular, running
+pretty close to the river. On this side the river, the bluffs seem to
+bear farther to the north, being apparently about three miles from the
+river, and a few miles farther west they are as much as five miles from
+the river. After traveling three and a quarter miles from the noon
+stop, we crossed a tributary stream running into the Platte, in a very
+crooked direction, being from four to eight rods wide and two and a
+half feet deep most of the way across, the bottom quick sand, current
+rapid and water of sandy color like the Platte. Some had to double
+teams to get over, but all got over safely. We proceeded on about four
+miles farther and found that the river bends considerably to the north.
+The bluffs also bend to the south, so that the low bluffs in front
+almost reach the banks only barely leaving room for a road. We went
+a little farther and camped for the night at half past five, having
+traveled this afternoon eight miles, making fifteen and three quarters
+miles during the day. Elder Kimball and several others went forward
+on horses to pick out our road as usual. I have seen several kinds of
+herbs growing today which appear new to me. One looks like penny royal,
+smells almost like it, but tastes hot and like the oil of cloves.
+Elder Kimball and others saw a very large wolf about half a mile west,
+and he appeared to be following them to camp. They turned and rode up
+to him and round him, struck their pistols at him, but they did not
+go off, being damp. He finally made his escape. The large stream we
+crossed this afternoon is named Castle Creek from the bluffs on the
+opposite side which much resemble the rock on which Lancaster Castle is
+built. The bluffs are named Castle Bluffs. We had a light shower this
+afternoon, but the evening is fine though very cool.
+
+Friday, May 21
+
+The morning very fine and pleasant though tolerably cold. I put up
+a guide board at this place with the following inscriptions on it:
+"From Winter Quarters 409 miles. From the junction of the North and
+South Forks, 93¼ miles. From Cedar Bluffs, south side the river, 36½
+miles. Ash Hollow, south side the river, 8 miles. Camp of Pioneers May
+21, 1847. According to Fremont, this place is 132 miles from Laramie.
+N. B. The bluffs opposite are named Castle Bluffs." At 7:35 we
+continued our journey. We found the prairie tolerably wet, many ponds
+of water standing which must have been caused by a heavy fall of
+rain, much more heavy than we had back. However, it was not very bad
+traveling. We made a pretty straight road this morning at about the
+distance of a mile from the river. The bluffs on the north appear to
+be five miles or over from our road. At 11:15 we halted for dinner,
+having traveled nearly seven and three quarters miles, course north
+of northwest, very warm and no wind. Presidents Young and Kimball
+rode forward to pick the road, and near this place they saw a nest of
+wolves, caught and killed two with sticks. Four or five others escaped
+to their hole. At half past one we proceeded onward and found the
+prairie wet, and grass high of last year's growth. After traveling four
+and three quarters miles we arrived at a range of low bluffs projecting
+to the river, which at this place bends to the north. There is,
+however, bottom of about a rod wide between the bluffs and the river,
+but as it is wet and soft, it was preferred to cross over the bluffs by
+bending a little more to the north. We traveled on the bluffs a little
+over a quarter of a mile and then turned on the bottom again. The
+bluffs are low and almost as level as the bottom. After we crossed the
+bluffs we found the road better. We saw about a mile this side of the
+foot of the bluffs, a very large bone almost petrified into stone. Most
+of the brethren believe it to be the shoulder bone of a mammoth, and is
+very large indeed. About this time a badger was brought to the wagons
+which Brother Woodruff had killed. As I was walking along and looking
+over the river, I heard a rattlesnake, and looking down saw that I had
+stepped within a foot of it. It rattled hard but seemed to make away.
+We threw it away from the track without killing it. At five o'clock
+Elder Kimball rode up and stopped the forward teams till the last ones
+got nearer saying that some Indians had come down from the bluffs to
+the brethren ahead. When the rest of the wagons came up we moved on a
+quarter of a mile farther and at half past five formed our encampment
+in a circle with the wagons close together as possible, having traveled
+seven and three quarters miles this afternoon, making fifteen and a
+half through the day. As the camp was forming the two Indians came
+nearer, being a man and his squaw. They represented by signs that they
+were Sioux and that a party of them are now on the bluffs north of us
+and not far distant. By the aid of glasses we could see several on
+the bluffs with their ponies, evidently watching our movements. This
+man was hunting when first seen and appeared afraid when he saw the
+brethren. The squaw fled for the bluffs as fast as her horse could go,
+but by signs made to them they gathered courage and came up. President
+Young gave orders not to bring them into camp, and they soon rode off
+to the bluffs. The man has got a good cloth coat on and appears well
+dressed. The horses they rode are said to be work horses which makes
+us suspect they have stolen them from travelers. The day has been
+very warm and some of the teams gave out. We can see some timber on
+the bluffs on the other side of the river some miles ahead which is
+the first timber we have seen for more than a week, except some small
+cedar and the timber in Ash Hollow, all on the south side the river.
+We are nearly a mile from water and the brethren have to dig wells to
+obtain a supply for cooking. The feed here is very poor, not much but
+old grass. Our course this afternoon has been a little north of west.
+Lorenzo Young shot two very large ducks with one ball and brought them
+to camp. Elder Kimball proposed tonight that I should leave a number of
+pages for so much of his journal as I am behind in copying and start
+from the present and keep it up daily. He furnished me a candle and I
+wrote the journal of this day's travel by candle light in his journal,
+leaving fifty-six pages blank. The evening was very fine and pleasant.
+The latitude at noon halt 41° 24' 5".
+
+Saturday, May 22
+
+Morning beautiful, no wind and warm. We have not been disturbed by
+the Indians; all is peace in the camp. At eight o'clock we continued
+our journey, making a more crooked road than usual, having to bend
+south to near the banks of the river. The prairie somewhat soft and a
+little uneven. After traveling five and a half miles we crossed a very
+shoal creek about twenty feet wide. The bluffs and river about a mile
+apart, but on the other side, the bluffs recede two miles back from
+the river and have lost their craggy and steep appearance, the ascent
+being gradual, while on this side they begin to be rocky, cragged and
+almost perpendicular though not very high. We traveled till half past
+eleven and then halted for noon, having traveled seven and a quarter
+miles, the road on this side the creek being better. Our course about
+west of northwest with a light breeze from the east. Elder Kimball and
+others ahead as usual. The creek above mentioned was named Crab Creek
+because some of the brethren saw a very large crab in it. A mile east
+of this creek is a dry creek, down which, from appearances, a heavy
+stream runs at some seasons of the year, perhaps during heavy storms.
+The water running from the bluffs swells it to a considerable height
+and it is certain there are tremendous storms here. A while after we
+halted, Porter Rockwell came in and said he had been on the high bluff
+about a mile northwest of us and had seen the rock called Chimney Rock
+which appeared a long distance off. We have been in hopes to come in
+sight of it today and feel anxious in order to ascertain more certainly
+the correctness of Fremont's distance. In order to satisfy myself,
+although my feet were blistered and very sore, I determined to take my
+telescope and go on the bluff to ascertain for myself whether the noted
+rock could be seen or not. At half past twelve I started out alone. I
+found the distance to the foot of the bluff a good mile, the ascent
+gradual. From the foot the bluff looks very high and rough, many huge
+rocks having broken from the summit from time to time and rolled down a
+long distance. I found the ascent very steep and lengthy in comparison
+to its appearance from camp. When I arrived on the top I found a nice
+slightly arched surface of about a quarter of an acre in extent, but
+barren and very little grass on it. Huge comparatively smooth rocks
+peeped through the surface on one of which I wrote with red chalk:
+"Wm. Clayton. May 22, 1847." On the highest point I sat down and took
+a view of the surrounding country which is magnificent indeed. On the
+south at the distance of two miles from the river, there is a range of
+cedar trees on the bluffs which very much resemble some of the parks
+and seats of gentry in England. East I could see where we camped last
+night, the high grass still burning. Northeast, north, and northwest,
+alternately, appeared high swelling bluffs and valleys as far as the
+eye could see or the glass magnify. West, the course of the Platte for
+ten or fifteen miles and at about four or five miles distance, a large
+bend to the north brings it in contact with the bluffs on this side.
+At the distance, I should judge of about twenty miles, I could see
+Chimney Rock very plainly with the naked eye, which from here very much
+resembles the large factory chimneys in England, although I could not
+see the form of its base. The rock lay about due west from here. After
+gratifying my curiosity, and seeing the men collecting their teams
+for a march, I descended on the west side of the bluff. The descent
+at this point looks more alarming than on the other. The side being
+very steep and all along huge rocks standing so critically, that to
+all appearance, a waft of wind would precipitate them to the prairie
+below with tremendous force. In one place in particular, a ponderous
+mass of rock appears to hang from the edge of the bluff without any
+visible means of being retained in its position, and by gazing at it
+a little while, it is easy to imagine you can see it move and ready
+to overwhelm you instantly. At a little distance from the base of the
+bluff, I turned to gaze on the romantic scenery above and was struck at
+the appearance of a large rock projecting from one corner, which very
+much resembled a frog's head of immense size with its mouth part open.
+The thought was, those bluffs ought to be named and what name more
+appropriate than Frog's Head Bluffs. After this reflection, I walked on
+to where I thought the wagons would come which started out at half past
+one. After traveling three and a quarter miles we crossed a dry creek
+about six rods wide, and a quarter of a mile farther, another about
+five feet wide and a half a mile farther, still another about six rods
+wide on an average. These all appear to be the sources of heavy streams
+of water at some seasons of the year. Soon as we crossed this last
+one, I saw Elder Kimball wave his hat for the wagons to turn off to
+the north in order to cross the bluffs which struck the river a little
+farther. But a little to the west was a very high ridge and I concluded
+to walk on to it. Found it to be a perfect ridge of gravel, very high
+and rounding on the top, not more than four or five feet wide and from
+north to south about 150 feet long. Elder Pratt names this Cobble
+Hills, the gravel or cobbles varying in size of from fifty pounds in
+weight to the smallest pebble. At the north foot of this hill is what
+might be named a clay bank, being composed of a light colored kind of
+sandy clay and forms a kind of large table. A little distance farther,
+we crossed another dry creek about eight rods wide and then ascended
+the bluffs. The ascent is pretty steep for nearly half a mile, but
+hard and not difficult to travel. The wagon had to wind about some to
+keep around the foot of the bluffs, crossing the dry creek three times
+before we emerged from the bluffs to the banks of the river. We crossed
+another dry creek pretty steep on each side and then found ourselves
+once more on the prairie bottom. The bluffs are two and a quarter
+miles from the east to the west foot following our trail. The wind has
+blown from the southeast all day until lately, when a dead calm has
+succeeded. In the west a heavy thunder cloud has been gathering for
+two hours and vivid streaks of lightning observed in the distance. At
+twenty minutes to five the wind struck suddenly from the northwest, the
+blackest part of the cloud then lying in that direction. We had a few
+drops of rain only. Then it seemed to turn off to the east. The scenery
+after this was indeed sublime, the sun peering out from under the heavy
+clouds reflecting long rays upwards which were imitated in the east.
+The romantic bluffs on the north and the lightning playing in the
+southeast all tended to fill my mind with pleasant reflections, on the
+goodness and majesty of the Creator and Governor of the universe, and
+the beauty of the works of his hands. At 5:45 we formed our encampment
+in a circle within a quarter of a mile of the banks of the river,
+having traveled this afternoon, eight and a quarter miles and through
+the day fifteen and a half, making the distance from Winter Quarters
+440 miles in five weeks and three and a half days. The feed on the
+lower bench of the prairie is tolerably good, while the higher land is
+quite bare. We have noticed today a great many petrified bones, some
+very large. All are turned into solid, hard stone, which proves that
+the atmosphere is pure and the country would doubtless be healthy, but
+is not adapted for farming purposes on account of the poor sandy soil
+and no timber at all on this side the river. I have noticed a variety
+of shrubs, plants and flowers all new to me today, many of which have
+a very pleasant smell and in some places the air appears impregnated
+with the rich odors arising from them. Among the rest are numerous
+beds of the southern wood. There are also vast beds of flinty pebbles
+of various colors, some as white as alabaster. About 6:30 I observed a
+group of brethren standing together inside the camp. I went up and saw
+a young eagle which had been taken out of its nest on one of these high
+bluffs by George R. Grant and Orson Whitney. Although it is very young
+and its feathers have scarcely commenced growing, it measures from the
+tips of its wings when stretched, forty-six inches. Its head is nearly
+the size of my fist and looks very ferocious. After this I went with
+John Pack and Horace Whitney to the bluffs. On our way we saw a large
+wolf about as large as the largest dog in camp. He was within a quarter
+of a mile from camp. After traveling about a mile we arrived at the
+foot of a stupendous mass of rocks almost perpendicular, with only one
+place where it was possible to ascend. We went up with difficulty and
+by using our hands and knees, gained the top. We had to walk over a
+little space which was only about three feet wide and on the east side
+a perpendicular fall of about sixty feet. Although from the camp this
+peak looks only large enough for a man to stand upon we found it large
+enough to seat comfortably about twenty persons. The top is composed of
+large rocks and very uneven. The prairie below looks a long distance
+under foot from this peak. Descending we viewed the surrounding scenery
+which looks more like the ruins of an ancient city with its castles,
+towers, fortifications, etc., on all sides, and a dry stream coming
+through the center. We proceeded to the next high rock and found it
+very difficult of ascent. The top is nearly level and very pleasant. We
+discovered several other varieties of shrubbery, all smelling pleasant
+and strong. We saw that a horse has sometime stood on the top, but how
+he got there, we could not easily determine. At the east end there is
+a cedar tree flat on the top and on the underside almost looks like an
+umbrella. We made a calculation of the height of this bluff as well as
+we could and concluded it must be at least 200 feet higher than the
+river. The surrounding country can be seen for many miles from its
+summit, and Chimney Rock shows very plainly. We descended at the east
+end and arrived in camp at dark well satisfied with our journey. Some
+of the brethren have discovered a cave in one of these bluffs, and one
+went into it a little distance, but it being very dark and having no
+torch, he did not venture far. Elder Pratt reports that he saw on the
+top of one of the bluffs, a hole in a rock 15 inches in diameter and a
+foot deep with five inches of very cold good water in it. He supposed
+it to be a spring. Between the bluffs they also discovered a spring of
+pure cold water of a very good taste. Dr. Richards names these bluffs
+"Bluff Ruins" from their appearance being that of the ruins of castles,
+cities, etc. A little to the left is a small perpendicular rock much
+resembling Chimney Rock but smaller. The whole of the scenery around
+is one of romantic beauty which cannot be described with either pen or
+tongue. Last night a large black dog, half wolf, supposed to belong to
+the Indians, came to the camp. He has kept within two hundred yards of
+the wagons all day, and has followed us to this place. There have been
+many rattlesnakes seen today and six or seven killed. In fact, this
+place seems to abound with them. The evening was spent very joyfully by
+most of the brethren, it being very pleasant and moonlight. A number
+danced till the bugle sounded for bed time at nine o'clock. A mock
+trial was also prosecuted in the case of the camp vs. James Davenport
+for blockading the highway and turning ladies out of their course.
+Jackson Redding acted as the presiding judge. Elder Whipple attorney
+for defendant and Luke Johnson attorney for the people. We have many
+such trials in the camp which are amusing enough and tend among other
+things to pass away the time cheerfully during leisure moments. It was
+remarked this evening that we have one man in camp who is entitled to
+the credit of being more even tempered than any of the others, and that
+is Father Chamberlain. He is invariably cross and quarrelsome, but the
+brethren all take it as a joke and he makes considerable amusement for
+the camp. Opposite the encampment there are quite a number of small
+islands, but no timber on any of them.
+
+Sunday, May 23
+
+The morning very fine and pleasant. Brother Egan commenced washing
+very early on the banks of the river. He kindly volunteered to wash my
+dirty clothing which I accepted as a favor. After breakfast President
+Young, Elders Kimball, Richards, Pratt, Woodruff, Smith and Benson and
+Lyman walked out to view Bluff Ruins and returned at half past eleven.
+A while ago I went out a little distance to view an adder which George
+Billings had discovered. It was a dark brown color about 18 inches
+long and three quarters of an inch thick through the body. They are
+represented as very poisonous. About eleven o'clock Nathaniel Fairbanks
+came into camp having been bitten in the leg by a rattlesnake. He went
+on the bluffs with Aaron Farr and Brother Rolf and as they jumped off
+from the bluff, the snake bit him, the others having jumped over him
+farther. He said that in two minutes after he was bitten his tongue
+began to prick and feel numb. When he got to camp his tongue and
+hands pricked and felt numb as a person feels their feet sometimes
+when they are said to be asleep. The brethren immediately applied
+some tobacco juice and leaves, also turpentine, and bound tobacco on
+his leg which was considerably swollen. We laid hands on him and Luke
+Johnson administered a dose of lobelia in number six after he had taken
+a strong drink of alcohol and water. The lobelia soon vomitted him
+powerfully. He complains much of sickness at his stomach and dimness
+in his eyes. He appears to be in much pain. While the brethren of the
+quorum of the twelve were on one of the high detached bluffs they found
+the skeleton of a buffalo's head. Brother Woodruff wrote the names of
+all the quorum of the twelve present and set it upon the southwest
+corner of the bluff. John Brown also wrote his name on it. Elder Pratt
+took the altitude of the bluff and found it to be 235 feet above the
+surface of the river. He did not calculate the height above the sea,
+owing to the state of the atmosphere. He, however, predicted wind from
+the same cause. At twelve o'clock the camp was called together for
+meeting, and after singing and praying we were addressed by Elder Snow,
+followed by President Young. The latter said there were many items of
+doctrine which he often felt like teaching to the brethren, but as
+to administering sealing ordinances, etc., this is no time or place
+for them, they belong to the house of God and when we get located we
+shall have an opportunity to build a house, etc. He expressed himself
+satisfied with the conduct of the camp in general. He is pleased to
+see so much union and disposition to obey council among the brethren
+and hoped and prayed that it may continue and increase. He wants the
+brethren to seek after knowledge and be faithful to acknowledge God in
+all things but never take his name in vain nor use profane language.
+If all the knowledge in this camp were put together and brother Joseph
+were here in our midst, he could comprehend the whole of it and wind it
+around his little finger. And then think of the knowledge of angels,
+and above that, the knowledge of the Lord. There is much for us to
+learn and a faithful man who desires eternal glory will seek after
+knowledge all the time and his ideas never suffered to rust but are
+always bright. He will not throw away the knowledge of small things
+because they are familiar, but grasp all he can and keep doing so and
+by retaining many small things he will thus gain a large pile, etc.
+He expressed his feelings warmly towards all the brethren and prayed
+them to be faithful, diligent and upright, for we are now sowing seed,
+the fruit of which will be plucked in after days whether good or
+bad. G. A. Smith made a few remarks, also several others of the
+brethren. The president then stated that on Sunday next he wants the
+brethren to understand that there will be meeting at eleven o'clock and
+the sacrament administered, and he wants the brethren to attend, all
+that can, and not ramble off and fatigue themselves but use the Sabbath
+as a day of rest. He enjoined it upon Bishops T. Lewis, S. Roundy,
+J. S. Higbee and A. Everett to see that the proper necessities
+were prepared for the sacrament. The meeting was then dismissed. A
+while after meeting I walked out with Elder Kimball a piece from
+the camp. We sat down and I read to him my journal of the last four
+days, with which he seemed well pleased. We then knelt down together
+and poured out our souls to God for ourselves, the camp and our dear
+families in Winter Quarters. While we were engaged in prayer the wind
+rose suddenly from the northwest, a heavy cloud having been gathering
+from the west all the afternoon. A sudden gust struck Elder Kimball's
+hat and carried it off. After we got through, his hat was nowhere in
+sight, but following the direction of the wind we soon saw it at a
+distance on the bottom of the prairie still flying swiftly. We both ran
+and chased it about three quarters of a mile and caught it a little
+from the river. While we were out together I remarked that the buffalo
+gnat had bitten us very severely. Elder Kimball said they bit him very
+badly last evening. Their bite is very poisonous, and although they
+are extremely small, they punish a person very much with an itching,
+aching pain like a mosquito bite. About five o'clock the wind blew a
+perfect gale and continued till seven when it commenced to rain very
+heavily, large drops descending, accompanied with hail, which however,
+did not continue very long but the wind continued nearly all night.
+The lightning and thunder continued some time but not very severe. We
+saw the necessity of having good stout bows to our wagons, and the
+covers well fastened down, for the very stoutest seemed in danger of
+being torn to pieces and the wagons blown over. When the wind commenced
+blowing so strongly it turned very cold and long before dark I went to
+bed to keep warm. Brother Fairbanks seems considerably better. This
+evening President Young, Kimball and Benson laid hands on him and he
+seemed much better afterwards.
+
+Monday, May 24
+
+The morning very cold indeed, strong wind from northwest. At 8:25 we
+continued our journey and traveled over level prairie ten miles, then
+halted to feed at 12:45. The bluffs on the north about two miles from
+us and the river one mile. About noon the weather began to moderate
+and grow warmer. While we were resting two Indians came to camp, their
+object evidently being to get the dog which has followed us to this
+place. They tarried a little while and then went away taking the dog
+with them. At 3:00 p.m., we again proceeded and traveled till 6:00
+p.m., distance six and a half miles, during the day 16½. Several of
+the horse teams gave out and they are evidently failing but the oxen
+are gaining daily. The mules stand the journey well and in fact all
+the teams, considering the scarcity of grass. About 5:30 we discovered
+a party of Indians on the opposite side the river moving west. When
+we formed our encampment they crossed over the river. Some of the
+brethren went to meet them carrying a white flag with them. When the
+Indians saw the flag, some of them began to sing, and their chief held
+up a U. S. flag. It was soon ascertained that their object was to
+obtain something to eat. A number of them came to the camp and were
+conducted around by Colonels Markham and Rockwood. They were shown a
+six and fifteen shooter also the cannon and the gunners went through
+the evolutions a number of times which seemed to please them much.
+They are all well dressed and very noble looking, some having good
+clean blankets, others nice robes artfully ornamented with beads and
+paintings. All had many ornaments on their clothing and ears, some had
+nice painted shells suspended from the ear. All appeared to be well
+armed with muskets. Their moccasins were indeed clean and beautiful.
+One had a pair of moccasins of a clear white, ornamented with beads,
+etc. They fit very tight to the foot. For cleanness and neatness,
+they will vie with the most tasteful whites. They are thirty-five
+in number, about half squaws and children. They are Sioux and have
+two recommends certifying as to their friendship, etc. The brethren
+contributed something to eat which was sent to them. Our course today
+has been nearly west, with a cool wind. The evening fine but cold
+enough to freeze clothing stiff when laid on the grass to dry. Elder
+Kimball has been quite unwell all day and mostly kept to his wagon.
+Opposite the camp on the south side the river is a very large rock very
+much resembling a castle of four stories high, but in a state of ruin.
+A little to the east a rock stands which looks like a fragment of a
+very thick wall. A few miles to the west Chimney Rock appears in full
+view. The scenery around is pleasant and romantic. After the Indians
+had viewed the camp, they returned to their horses and the rest of the
+party who have camped on the banks of the river about a quarter of
+a mile west of us. Elder Sherwood returned with them and soon after
+came back accompanied by the chief and his squaw who signified a wish
+to abide with our camp tonight. The brethren fixed up a tent for them
+to sleep under; Porter Rockwell made them some coffee, and they were
+furnished with some victuals. The old chief amused himself very much by
+looking at the moon through a telescope for as much as twenty minutes.
+Brother Fairbanks is much better this evening. Last night Luke Johnson
+discovered a very large petrified bone in the neighborhood of the
+bluffs as much as two feet wide, but he could not ascertain the length
+of it. After laboring sometime ineffectually to dig it up, he broke off
+two pieces and brought them to camp. They are very white and hard. It
+is now eleven o'clock. I have been writing in Elder Kimball's journal
+since dark, and have but little chance to write as much as I want in
+my own and his both, but I feel determined to do all I can to keep a
+journal of this expedition which will be interesting to my children
+in after days, and perhaps to many of the Saints. The evening is very
+fine but cool and I retire to rest with the feeling: "God bless my dear
+family."
+
+Tuesday, May 25
+
+The morning fine and very pleasant. Most of the Indians, men, women
+and children came early to camp on their ponies and marched around
+mostly trying to obtain something to eat. Several little barters were
+made with them for moccasins, skins, etc. John S. Higbee traded ponies
+with one of them. They have some good ponies and some inferior ones,
+but both male and females are neatly dressed and very tidy. They look
+cheerful and pleased to witness the camp, etc. At 8:20 we proceeded
+onward. After we started, the Indians left us and went over the river.
+One mile from where we started, we began to ascend a low range of
+bluffs to avoid a large, high sandy ridge which projects to the river.
+We traveled three quarters of a mile and descended again to the level
+prairie. At 9:40 we halted to let the cattle and teams graze, the feed
+being good and plentiful, having traveled two and a half miles, mostly
+northwest around a bend of the river. The sun is very hot, the roads
+sandy and hard teaming. The river is probably three quarters of a mile
+wide here and on this side there are many small islands. At 11:15
+continued our journey and traveled till half past one, distance four
+and three quarters miles over a very soft, wet, level prairie. We then
+halted to feed and rest our teams, as they have been hard drawn nearly
+all day. We have seen no game for several days except a few antelope
+and hares. The buffalo appear to have left this region and in fact
+there are little signs of many having been here. The feed is poor,
+mostly last year's growth and very short. One of the hunters killed
+an antelope, which was brought to camp and divided to the captains of
+tens. At 3:00 p.m. we started again and traveled till a quarter to
+six, distance four and three quarters miles, and during the day twelve
+miles. For three miles of the first of this afternoon we had a good
+road, but the last part has been very wet and soft, numerous ponds
+of water standing all around caused by heavy rains. We have camped
+on a very wet spot, but the feed being poor where it was drier, it
+was decided to stay for the benefit of the teams. Our course has been
+about northwest, very little wind and the day very warm. Chimney Rock
+shows very plain and appears not more than two miles distance but is no
+doubt five miles distance or over. Another antelope has been killed and
+brought in by the hunters. Elder Orson Pratt is taking an observation
+to ascertain the height of Chimney Rock. The evening was very pleasant
+and the brethren passed away their time till after nine o'clock
+dancing. Porter Rockwell shot the two antelope spoken of above. He also
+shot two wolves. Latitude six and a quarter miles back, 41° 41' 46".
+
+Wednesday, May 26
+
+The morning very fine and pleasant. I have spent the morning working
+on Dr. Richards' map. At eight o'clock continued on our journey. Elder
+Pratt taking observations to tell the distance our road lies from
+Chimney Rock. Yesterday morning Stephen Markham traded a mule which was
+foundered and unable to work to one of the Indians for a pony. They put
+him in the harness a little towards evening and again this morning.
+When crossing a very soft place the whipple tree unhitched and struck
+against his heels. He ran full gallop towards the head teams and twice
+through the line of wagons causing several teams, horses and oxen both,
+to spring from the road and run some distance before the men could
+stop them. After running nearly a mile some of the brethren caught
+the pony, brought him back and put him to the wagon again without any
+accident, except a little injury to the harness. After traveling four
+and five-eighths miles, we arrived at a point directly north of Chimney
+Rock which we ascertained by the compass, having traveled since it
+was first discovered 41½ miles. We proceeded till twelve o'clock and
+halted to feed, having traveled seven and a quarter miles, a northwest
+course, the road very straight and hard excepting a few spots where the
+water stands caused by late heavy rains. We turned south a little to
+get to grass as the higher prairie is barren, and scarcely any grass on
+it. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope and John Brown one which
+were brought into camp and are being divided amongst the companies as
+usual. Elder Pratt found that Chimney Rock is 260 feet high from its
+base to its summit and the distance from our road at the nearest point
+three miles. The latitude at noon halt 41° 45' 58". At 2:25 resumed our
+journey making our road nearer the river than this morning. The road
+somewhat crooked but good traveling. After traveling five miles, turned
+directly south to avoid a bad slough and went a quarter of a mile and
+then formed our encampment at five o'clock on the banks of the river.
+The last quarter of a mile was not reckoned in the day's travel which
+exclusive of that is 12¼ miles, course north of northwest. The feed
+here is good and sufficient to fill our teams well. Joseph Hancock
+killed an antelope which was brought into camp and distributed. Soon
+after we camped, walked out to the bank of the river with Presidents
+Young and Kimball to read to them some of the minutes of the old
+council. We were joined by Dr. Richards and tarried till seven o'clock,
+at which time a heavy black cloud was fast approaching from the west
+and was soon followed by a strong wind and a little rain which lasted
+only a short time. The evening afterwards warm and pleasant though
+somewhat cloudy. Carloss Murray has been trying to rear the young eagle
+caught on Saturday. After stopping tonight, he put it under a wagon and
+a while afterwards the men ran the wagon back, one of the wheels ran
+over its head and killed it. I wrote in Heber's journal till half past
+ten and then went to rest.
+
+Thursday, May 27
+
+The morning very fine. We have seen a number of romantic spots on our
+journey, but I consider our view this morning more sublime than any
+other. Chimney Rock lies southeast, opposite detached bluffs of various
+shapes and sizes. To the southwest, Scott's Bluffs look majestic and
+sublime. The prairie over which our route lies is very level and green
+as far as we can see. The bluffs on the north low, and about three
+miles distant. The scenery is truly delightful beyond imagination. I
+have finished making Dr. Richards' map to Chimney Rock. Elder Pratt
+has measured the width of the river at this place by the sextant and
+found it to be exactly 792 yards. At ten minutes to eight we continued
+our journey and traveled near the banks of the river till 11:45, being
+eight miles. The route very good, hard and good traveling, although
+a little crooked. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope and Amasa
+Lyman one, which were brought to the wagons and distributed. There
+are some heavy thunder clouds in the south and west and a nice breeze
+from northeast. At two o'clock we continued our journey over the same
+kind of dry level prairie, keeping not far distant from the banks of
+the river and making a straight road. At the distance of four and an
+eighth miles passed the meridian of the northernmost peak of Scott's
+Bluffs being 19¾ miles from the meridian of Chimney Rock. These bluffs
+are very high, steep, and broken like many others, resembling ancient
+ruins. They are probably two miles from north to south extremity, but
+not very wide. We traveled till 4:45 and formed our encampment in a
+circle near the banks of the river which from this place seems to bend
+for some distance to the north, having traveled this afternoon five and
+three quarters miles and during the day thirteen and three quarters,
+mostly northwest. Elders Kimball and Woodruff pointed out the road
+this forenoon. Afternoon Elder Kimball rode with me in Johnson's wagon
+while I read some of his journal to him. The evening is very cold, wind
+northeast, and raining some. Feed is good and the camp generally well.
+Another antelope was brought in by the hunters. The latitude of the
+northernmost peak of Scott's Bluffs 41° 50' 52".
+
+Friday, May 28
+
+The morning cool, damp, cloudy and some rain. Wind northeast. At about
+eight o'clock the brethren were called together and the question
+asked: shall we go on in the rain or wait until it is fair? All agreed
+to stay until it was fair. I went to writing in Heber's journal and
+wrote till nearly eleven o'clock. Elder Kimball came to the next wagon
+where some of the boys were playing cards. He told them his views and
+disapprobation of their spending time gaming and dancing and mock
+trying, etc., and especially the profane language frequently uttered
+by some. He reasoned with them on the subject and showed them that it
+would lead from bad to worse if persisted in until the consequences
+would become serious. He exhorted them to be more sober and wise. It
+growing fair, we started out at eleven o'clock, our first four miles
+being north of northwest in consequence of a bend in the river. We
+traveled beside a creek of very clear water about a mile. It rises
+about four miles northwest of where we camped last night and runs in
+a crooked direction till it empties into the river about a mile west
+of the camp. It rises from springs as was proved by Horace Whitney
+who traced it to its source where there is a spring rising out of a
+circular kind of wet swamp about six feet in diameter. The creek is
+about eight feet wide but not deep, the bottom is gravelly. Near where
+it empties into the river, they discovered a number of large spotted
+trout, suckers and dais of a good size. The water tasted very good and
+cold. At the distance of four miles we arrived and traveled at the foot
+of the bluffs, the road sandy and heavy on teams. We soon turned from
+the bluffs on a level barren prairie, hard and good traveling. At nine
+miles descended on a lower bench of prairie where we found it wet and
+soft though not bad rolling. At 4:45 formed our encampment near the
+river, having traveled eleven and a half miles, the last seven a little
+south of west. The feed here is not very good. Driftwood tolerably
+plentiful. We have seen a few small trees on the islands today but
+none on the north bank. Vast quantities of southern wood and prickley
+pear grow on these sandy prairies where there is no grass. The evening
+cloudy and dull with cold northeast wind. While Thomas Brown and Porter
+Rockwell were out hunting about five miles north of here, the former
+saw five or six Indians about a quarter of a mile from him. They also
+saw many new footprints of horses, which shows that there is a hunting
+party near.
+
+Saturday, May 29
+
+The morning cold, wet and cloudy with wind from northeast. We shall not
+travel unless it grows fair and better weather. I spent the morning
+writing in Elder Kimball's journal, but felt very unwell having
+taken cold yesterday and been sick all night. About ten o'clock, the
+weather looked a little better and at half past ten the bugle sounded
+as a signal for the teams to be got together. After the teams were
+harnessed, the brethren were called together to the boat in the circle.
+President Young taking his station in the boat, ordered each captain of
+ten to lead out his respective company and get all his men together. He
+then called on the clerk to call over the names of the camp to see if
+all were present. Joseph Hancock and Andrew Gibbons were reported to
+be absent hunting. Brothers Elijah Newman and Nathaniel Fairbanks were
+confined to their wagons but answered to their names, the remainder all
+present. President Young then addressed the meeting in substance as
+follows:
+
+"I remarked last Sunday that I had not felt much like preaching to the
+brethren on this mission. This morning I feel like preaching a little,
+and shall take for my text, 'That as to pursuing our journey with this
+company with the spirit they possess, I am about to revolt against it.'
+This is the text I feel like preaching on this morning, consequently
+I am in no hurry. In the first place, before we left Winter Quarters,
+it was told to the brethren and many knew it by experience, that we
+had to leave our homes, our houses, our land and our all because we
+believed in the Gospel as revealed to the Saints in these last days.
+The rise of the persecutions against the Church was in consequence of
+the doctrines of eternal truth taught by Joseph. Many knew this by
+experience. Some lost their husbands, some lost their wives, and some
+their children through persecution, and yet we have not been disposed
+to forsake the truth and turn and mingle with the gentiles, except a
+few who have turned aside and gone away from us, and we have learned
+in a measure, the difference between a professor of religion and a
+possessor of religion. Before we left Winter Quarters it was told to
+the brethren that we were going to look out a home for the Saints
+where they would be free from persecution by the gentiles, where we
+could dwell in peace and serve God according to the Holy Priesthood,
+where we could build up the kingdom so that the nations would begin to
+flock to our standard. I have said many things to the brethren about
+the strictness of their walk and conduct when we left the gentiles,
+and told them that we would have to walk upright or the law would be
+put in force, etc. Many have left and turned aside through fear, but
+no good upright, honest man will fear. The Gospel does not bind a good
+man down and deprive him of his rights and privileges. It does not
+prevent him from enjoying the fruits of his labors. It does not rob
+him of blessings. It does not stop his increase. It does not diminish
+his kingdom, but it is calculated to enlarge his kingdom as well as to
+enlarge his heart. It is calculated to give him privileges and power,
+and honor, and exaltation and everything which his heart can desire
+in righteousness all the days of his life, and then, when he gets
+exalted into the eternal world he can still turn around and say it
+hath not entered into the heart of man to conceive the glory and honor
+and blessings which God hath in store for those that love and serve
+Him. I want the brethren to understand and comprehend the principles
+of eternal life, and to watch the spirit, be wide awake and not be
+overcome by the adversary. You can see the fruits of the spirit, but
+you cannot see the spirit itself with the natural eye, you behold it
+not. You can see the result of yielding to the evil spirit and what
+it will lead you to, but you do not see the spirit itself nor its
+operations, only by the spirit that's in you. Nobody has told me what
+has been going on in the camp, but I have known it all the while. I
+have been watching its movements, its influence, its effects, and I
+know the result if it is not put a stop to. I want you to understand
+that inasmuch as we are beyond the power of the gentiles where the
+devil has tabernacles in the priests and the people, we are beyond
+their reach, we are beyond their power. We are beyond their grasp,
+and what has the devil now to work upon? Upon the spirits of men in
+this camp, and if you do not open your hearts so that the Spirit of
+God can enter your hearts and teach you the right way, I know that you
+are a ruined people and will be destroyed and that without remedy,
+and unless there is a change and a different course of conduct, a
+different spirit to what is now in this camp, I go no farther. I am in
+no hurry. Give me the man of prayers, give me the man of faith, give
+me the man of meditation, a sober-minded man, and I would far rather
+go amongst the savages with six or eight such men than to trust myself
+with the whole of this camp with the spirit they now possess. Here is
+an opportunity for every man to prove himself, to know whether he will
+pray and remember his God without being asked to do it every day; to
+know whether he will have confidence enough to ask of God that he may
+receive without my telling him to do it. If this camp was composed of
+men who had newly received the Gospel, men who had not received the
+priesthood, men who had not been through the ordinances in the temple
+and who had not had years of experience, enough to have learned the
+influence of the spirits and the difference between a good and an evil
+spirit, I should feel like preaching to them and watching over them
+and telling them all the time, day by day. But here are the Elders of
+Israel, men who have had years of experience, men who have had the
+priesthood for years--and have they got faith enough to rise up
+and stop a mean, low, groveling, covetous, quarrelsome spirit? No, they
+have not, nor would they try to stop it, unless I rise up in the power
+of God and put it down. I do not mean to bow down to the spirit that
+is in this camp, and which is rankling in the bosoms of the brethren,
+and which will lead to knock downs and perhaps to the use of the knife
+to cut each other's throats if it is not put a stop to. I do not mean
+to bow down to the spirit which causes the brethren to quarrel. When I
+wake up in the morning, the first thing I hear is some of the brethren
+jawing each other and quarreling because a horse has got loose in the
+night. I have let the brethren dance and fiddle and act the nigger
+night after night to see what they will do, and what extremes they
+would go to, if suffered to go as far as they would. I do not love to
+see it. The brethren say they want a little exercise to pass away time
+in the evenings, but if you can't tire yourselves bad enough with a
+day's journey without, dancing every night, carry your guns on your
+shoulders and walk, carry your wood to camp instead of lounging and
+lying asleep in your wagons, increasing the load until your teams are
+tired to death and ready to drop to the earth. Help your teams over
+mud holes and bad places instead of lounging in your wagons and that
+will give you exercise enough without dancing. Well, they will play
+cards, they will play checkers, they will play dominoes, and if they
+had the privilege and were where they could get whiskey, they would
+be drunk half their time, and in one week they would quarrel, get to
+high words and draw their knives to kill each other. This is what such
+a course of things would lead to. Don't you know it? Yes. Well, then,
+why don't you try to put it down? I have played cards once in my life
+since I became a Mormon to see what kind of spirit would attend it,
+and I was so well satisfied, that I would rather see in your hands the
+dirtiest thing you could find on the earth, than a pack of cards. You
+never read of gambling, playing cards, checkers, dominoes, etc., in
+the scriptures, but you do read of men praising the Lord in the dance,
+but who ever read of praising the Lord in a game at cards? If any man
+had sense enough to play a game at cards, or dance a little without
+wanting to keep it up all the time, but exercise a little and then quit
+it and think no more of it, it would do well enough, but you want to
+keep it up till midnight and every night, and all the time. You don't
+know how to control your senses. Last winter when we had our seasons of
+recreation in the council house, I went forth in the dance frequently,
+but did my mind run on it? No! To be sure, when I was dancing, my mind
+was on the dance, but the moment I stopped in the middle or the end
+of a tune, my mind was engaged in prayer and praise to my Heavenly
+Father and whatever I engage in, my mind is on it while engaged in it,
+but the moment I am done with it, my mind is drawn up to my God. The
+devils which inhabit the gentiles' priests are here. The tabernacles
+are not here, we are out of their power, we are beyond their grasp, we
+are beyond the reach of their persecutions, but the devils are here,
+and the first thing you'll know if you don't open your eyes and your
+hearts, they will cause divisions in our camp and perhaps war, as they
+did with the Lamanites as you read in the Book of Mormon. Do we suppose
+that we are going to look out a home for the Saints, a resting place, a
+place of peace where they can build up the kingdom and bid the nations
+welcome, with a low, mean, dirty, trifling, covetous, wicked spirit
+dwelling in our bosoms? It is vain! vain! Some of you are very fond of
+passing jokes, and will carry your jokes very far. But will you take
+a joke? If you do not want to take a joke, don't give a joke to your
+brethren. Joking, nonsense, profane language, trifling conversation and
+loud laughter do not belong to us. Suppose the angels were witnessing
+the hoe down the other evening, and listening to the haw haws the other
+evening, would they not be ashamed of it? I am ashamed of it. I have
+not given a joke to any man on this journey nor felt like it; neither
+have I insulted any man's feelings but I have hollowed pretty loud and
+spoken sharply to the brethren when I have seen their awkwardness at
+coming to camp. The revelations in the Bible, in the Book of Mormon,
+and Doctrine and Covenants, teach us to be sober; and let me ask you
+elders that have been through the ordinances in the temple, what were
+your covenants there? I say you should remember them. When I laugh I
+see my folly and nothingness and weakness and am ashamed of myself. I
+think meaner and worse of myself than any man can think of me; but I
+delight in God, and in His commandments and delight to meditate on Him
+and to serve Him and I mean that everything in me shall be subjected
+to Him. Now let every man repent of his weakness, of his follies, of
+his meanness, and every kind of wickedness, and stop your swearing and
+profane language, for it is in this camp and I know it, and have known
+it. I have said nothing about it, but I now tell you, if you don't stop
+it you shall be cursed by the Almighty and shall dwindle away and be
+damned. Such things shall not be suffered in this camp. You shall honor
+God, and confess His name or else you shall suffer the penalty. Most
+of this camp belong to the Church, nearly all; and I would say to you
+brethren, and to the Elders of Israel, if you are faithful, you will
+yet be sent to preach this Gospel to the nations of the earth and bid
+all welcome whether they believe the Gospel or not, and this kingdom
+will reign over many who do not belong to the Church, over thousands
+who do not believe in the Gospel. Bye and bye every knee shall bow and
+every tongue confess and acknowledge and reverence and honor the name
+of God and His priesthood and observe the laws of the kingdom whether
+they belong to the Church and obey the Gospel or not, and I mean that
+every man in this camp shall do it. That is what the scripture means by
+every knee shall bow, etc., and you cannot make anything else out of
+it. I understand there are several in this camp who do not belong to
+the Church. I am the man who will stand up for them and protect them in
+all their rights. And they shall not trample on our rights nor on the
+priesthood. They shall reverence and acknowledge the name of God and
+His priesthood, and if they set up their heads and seek to introduce
+iniquity into this camp and to trample on the priesthood, I swear to
+them, they shall never go back to tell the tale. I will leave them
+where they will be safe. If they want to retreat they can now have the
+privilege, and any man who chooses to go back rather than abide the law
+of God can now have the privilege of doing so before we go any farther.
+Here are the Elders of Israel who have the priesthood, who have got
+to preach the Gospel, who have to gather the nations of the earth,
+who have to build up the kingdom so that the nations can come to it,
+they will stop to dance as niggers. I don't mean this as debasing the
+negroes by any means; they will hoe down all, turn summersets, dance on
+their knees, and haw, haw, out loud; they will play cards, they will
+play checkers and dominoes, they will use profane language, they will
+swear! Suppose when you go to preach, the people should ask you what
+you did when you went on this mission to seek out a home for the whole
+Church, what was your course of conduct? Did you dance? Yes. Did you
+hoe down all? Yes. Did you play cards? Yes. Did you play checkers? Yes.
+Did you use profane language? Yes. Did you swear? Yes. Did you quarrel
+with each other and threaten each other? Why yes. How would you feel?
+What would you say for yourselves? Would you not want to go and hide
+up? Your mouths would be stopped and you would want to creep away in
+disgrace. I am one of the last to ask my brethren to enter into solemn
+covenants, but if they will not enter into a covenant to put away their
+iniquity and turn to the Lord and serve Him and acknowledge and honor
+His name, I want them to take their wagons and retreat back, for I
+shall go no farther under such a state of things. If we don't repent
+and quit our wickedness we will have more hinderances than we have
+had, and worse storms to encounter. I want the brethren to be ready
+for meeting tomorrow at the time appointed, instead of rambling off,
+and hiding in their wagons to play cards, etc. I think it will be good
+for us to have a fast meeting tomorrow and a prayer meeting to humble
+ourselves and turn to the Lord and he will forgive us."
+
+He then called upon all the High Priests to step forth in a line in
+front of the wagon and then the bishops to step in front of the High
+Priests, which being done, he counted them and found their number to
+be four bishops and fifteen high priests. He then called upon all the
+seventies to form a line in the rear of the high priests. On being
+counted, they were ascertained to number seventy-eight. Next he called
+on the elders to form a line in the rear of the wagon. They were eight
+in number. There were also eight of the quorum of the twelve. He then
+asked the brethren of the quorum of the twelve if they were willing to
+covenant, to turn to the Lord with all their hearts, to repent of all
+their follies, to cease from all their evils and serve God according
+to His laws. If they were willing, to manifest it by holding up their
+right hand. Every man held up his hand in token that he covenanted. He
+then put the same question to the high priests and bishops; next to the
+seventies, and then to the elders, and lastly to the other brethren.
+All covenanted with uplifted hands without a dissenting voice. He then
+addressed those who are not members of the Church and told them they
+should be protected in their rights and privileges while they would
+conduct themselves well and not seek to trample on the priesthood nor
+blaspheme the name of God, etc. He then referred to the conduct of
+Benjamin Rolfe's two younger brothers, in joining with the Higbees and
+John C. Bennett in sowing discord and strife among the Saints in Nauvoo
+and remarked that there will be no more Bennett scrapes suffered here.
+He spoke highly of Benjamin Rolfe's conduct, although not a member of
+the Church and also referred to the esteem in which his father and
+mother were held by the Saints generally. He then very tenderly blessed
+the brethren and prayed that God would enable them to fulfill their
+covenants and then withdrew to give opportunity for others to speak
+if they felt like it. Elder Kimball arose to say that he agreed with
+all that President Young had said. He receives it as the word of the
+Lord to him and it is the word of the Lord to this camp if they will
+receive it. He has been watching the motion of things and the conduct
+of the brethren for some time and has seen what it would lead to. He
+has said little but thought a great deal. It has made him shudder
+when he has seen the Elders of Israel descend to the lowest, dirtiest
+things imaginable, the tail end of everything, but what has passed this
+morning will make it an everlasting blessing to the brethren, if they
+will repent and be faithful and keep their covenant. He never can rest
+satisfied until his family is liberated from the gentiles and their
+company and established in a land where they can plant and reap the
+fruits of their labors, but he has never had the privilege of eating
+the fruits of his labors yet, neither has his family, but when this is
+done he can sleep in peace if necessary but not till then. If we will
+serve the Lord, remember His name to call upon Him, and be faithful, we
+shall not one of us be left under the sod, but shall be permitted to
+return and meet our families in peace and enjoy their society again;
+but if this camp continues the course of conduct it has done, the
+judgment of God will overtake us. He hopes the brethren will take heed
+to what President Young has said and let it sink deep in their hearts.
+
+Elder Pratt wanted to add a word to what has been said. "Much good
+advice has been given to teach us how we may spend our time profitably
+by prayer, and meditation, etc." But there is another idea which
+he wants to add. "There are many books in the camp and worlds of
+knowledge before us which we have not obtained, and if the brethren
+would devote all their leisure time to seeking after knowledge, they
+would never need to say they had nothing with which to pass away their
+time. If we could spend 23 hours out of the 24 in gaining knowledge
+and only sleep one hour of the 24 all the days of our life, there
+would still be worlds of knowledge in store for us yet to learn. He
+knows it is difficult to bring our minds to diligent and constant
+studies, in pursuit of knowledge all at once, but by steady practice
+and perseverance we shall become habituated to it, and it will become a
+pleasure to us. He would recommend to the brethren, besides prayer, and
+obedience, to seek after knowledge continually. And it will help us to
+overcome our follies and nonsense; we shall have no time for it.
+
+Elder Woodruff said he remembered the time when the camp went up to
+Missouri to redeem Zion, when Brother Joseph stood up on a wagon wheel
+and told the brethren that the decree had passed and could not be
+revoked, and the destroying angel would visit the camp and we should
+die like sheep with the rot. He had repeatedly warned the brethren of
+their evil conduct and what it would lead to, but they still continued
+in their course. It was not long before the destroying angel did visit
+the camp and the brethren began to fall as Brother Joseph had said. We
+buried eighteen in a short time and a more sorrowful time I never saw.
+There are nine here who were in that camp and they all recollect the
+circumstance well and will never forget it. He has been thinking while
+the President was speaking, that if he was one who had played checkers
+or cards, he would take every pack of cards and every checker board and
+burn them up so that they would no longer be in the way to tempt us.
+
+Colonel Markham acknowledged that he had done wrong in many things.
+He had always indulged himself, before he came into the Church, with
+everything he desired and he knows he has done wrong on this journey,
+he knows his mind has become darkened since he left Winter Quarters.
+He hopes the brethren will forgive him and he will pray to be forgiven
+and try to do better. While he was speaking he was very much affected
+indeed and wept like a child. Many of the brethren felt much affected
+and all seemed to realize for the first time, the excess to which they
+had yielded and the awful consequence of such things if persisted in.
+Many were in tears and felt humbled. President Young returned to the
+boat as Brother Markham closed his remarks and said in reply, that he
+knew the brethren would forgive him, and the Lord will forgive us all
+if we turn to Him with all our hearts and cease to do evil. The meeting
+was then dismissed, each man retiring to his wagon. And being half past
+one o'clock we again pursued our journey in peace, all reflecting on
+what has passed today, and many expressing their gratitude for what
+has transpired. It seemed as though we were just commencing on this
+important mission, and all realizing the responsibility resting upon
+us to conduct ourselves in such a manner that the journey may be an
+everlasting blessing to us, instead of an everlasting disgrace. No loud
+laughter was heard, no swearing, no quarreling, no profane language, no
+hard speeches to man or beast, and it truly seemed as though the cloud
+had burst and we had emerged into a new element, a new atmosphere, and
+a new society. We traveled six and three quarters miles about a north
+of northwest course and then arrived at the foot of the low bluffs
+which extend within about ten rods of the river, the latter forming a
+large bend northward at this point. At the foot of the bluffs the road
+was sandy and very heavy on our teams. Like all other sandy places,
+it was perfectly barren, being only a tuft of grass here and there.
+After passing over the sand we changed our course to a little north of
+west, not, however, leaving the bluffs very far. The river bends again
+to the south. We then found the ground hard and good to travel over,
+but perfectly bare of grass for upwards of a mile. At five o'clock it
+commenced raining very hard accompanied by lightning and thunder and
+strong northeast wind. It also changed considerably cooler again. At
+five thirty o'clock we formed our encampment on the edge of the higher
+bench of prairie. The feed is tolerably good on the bottom but here
+there is none at all. We have passed a small grove of fair sized trees,
+all green, growing on the islands in the river which are tolerably many
+near here, but there is no timber yet on this side of the river. The
+brethren pick up drift wood enough to do their cooking. I spent the
+evening writing in this journal till half past twelve o'clock, but felt
+quite unwell. The distance we have traveled today is eight and a half
+miles, during the week seventy-four and a half, making us 514½ miles
+from Winter Quarters. There is a creek of clear water about 200 yards
+to the south from which the camp obtains what they want.
+
+Sunday, May 30
+
+The morning fair and somewhat more pleasant, although there is yet
+appearance for more rain. I felt quite unwell through the night and
+also this morning, having severe pain. At nine o'clock most of the
+brethren retired a little south of the camp and had a prayer meeting,
+and as many as chose to, expressed their feelings. At a little before
+twelve they met again in the same spot to partake of the sacrament.
+Soon afterwards all the members of the council of the K. of G. in the
+camp, except Brother Thomas Bullock, went onto the bluffs and selecting
+a small, circular, level spot surrounded by bluffs and out of sight,
+we clothed ourselves in the priestly garments and offered up prayer to
+God for ourselves, this camp and all pertaining to it, the brethren
+in the army, our families and all the Saints, President Young being
+mouth. We all felt well and glad for this privilege. The members of the
+above council are Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, Willard Richards,
+Orson Pratt, George A. Smith, Wilford Woodruff, Amasa Lyman, Ezra T.
+Benson, Phineas H. Young, John Pack, Charles Shumway, Shadrack Roundy,
+Albert P. Rockwood, Erastus Snow, myself, Albert Carrington and Porter
+Rockwell. The two latter, having no clothing with them, stood guard
+at a little distance from us to prevent interruption. When we started
+for the bluffs, there was a heavy black thunder cloud rising from
+the southwest, and from all appearance it might rain any minute, but
+the brethren believed it would not rain till we got through and if
+it did we chose rather to take a wetting than to be disappointed of
+the privilege. It kept off remarkably till we got through and got our
+clothing on, but soon after it began to rain and after we got to camp
+it rained considerably, accompanied by strong wind. I never noticed
+the brethren so still and sober on a Sunday since we started as today.
+There is no jesting nor laughing, nor nonsense. All appear to be sober
+and feel to remember their covenant which makes things look far more
+pleasant than they have done heretofore. I spent most of the afternoon
+in Elder Kimball's wagon with Elder Kimball, President Young, Lorenzo
+and Phineas Young. Read the minutes of President Young's discourse of
+yesterday. About five o'clock President Young, Kimball, Benson and
+others walked out together to the bluffs. They invited me to go with
+them but I was so afflicted with cramps I could scarcely walk, and
+after drinking a cup of tea prepared by Ellen Sanders I went to my
+wagon and retired to bed early. The evening more pleasant with a light
+shower occasionally. Elder Kimball, President Young, and others saw the
+Black Hills in the distance from a high bluff.
+
+Monday, May 31
+
+The morning fine but cool. I feel quite unwell yet and have been sick
+all night. At a quarter past eight we proceeded onward, found good
+level traveling, the day cool and pleasant. We soon struck a wagon
+trail which evidently leads direct to Fort Laramie. At four miles,
+passed some high sandy bluffs. Traveled till after twelve and then
+turned off a little to the southwest and at half past twelve o'clock
+halted for noon at the edge of lower land where there is some short
+green grass for our teams. The land we have traveled over this morning
+is naked and barren, course west of northwest, distance nine and a
+half miles. A high wind from northwest. Latitude 42° 04' 30". Started
+again at 3:00 p.m., weather warm and wind ceased. At 6:45 p.m. formed
+our encampment on the east bank of a shoal stream about ten feet wide,
+having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter miles, and during
+the day sixteen and three quarters. Our course this afternoon a little
+north of west. About four miles back, passed some timber on this side
+of the river which is the first since the 10th inst, being a distance
+of 215 miles without wood for fire, except driftwood, and much of the
+time nothing but buffalo chips. The last four or five miles have been
+sandy, the ground uneven and very heavy on our teams. The country looks
+perfectly barren; in some places there is nothing but a few weeds and
+garlick. Some of the brethren picked considerable of the latter to eat.
+The feed is very poor indeed, but a little better than four miles back.
+John S. Higbee has killed a deer and some of the brethren wounded two
+others. This deer which Brother Higbee killed is of the long tailed
+species, having a tail more than a half a yard long, and is the first
+one I ever saw of the kind. A while after we camped, President Young
+and Kimball went to the bluffs and again saw the Black Hills in the
+distance. They bowed before the Lord and offered up their prayers
+together.
+
+The month of May has passed over and we have been permitted to proceed
+so far on our journey, being 531¼ miles from our families in Winter
+Quarters, with the camp generally enjoying good health and good
+spirits, and although some things have passed which have merited
+chastisement, we have the privilege at the closing of the month of
+seeing a better feeling, a more noble spirit, and a more general desire
+to do right than we have before witnessed. I feel to humble myself and
+give God thanks for his continued mercies to me and my brethren and
+may His spirit fill our hearts and may His angels administer comfort,
+health, peace and prosperity to all our families and all the Saints
+henceforth and forever. Amen.
+
+
+
+June 1847
+
+Tuesday, June 1
+
+The morning very fine, warm and pleasant. All is still and quiet as a
+summer's morning, the camp well and in good spirits and a feeling of
+peace, union and brotherly love seems to dwell in every breast. My mind
+revolves back upon by-gone days and then to the present, and I truly
+feel thankful to my God for His mercies to me and for the privilege
+I now daily enjoy. The idea of dwelling with my family in a land of
+peace, in the midst of the Saints of God is better felt than described,
+but the mild, still scenery of this morning puts me in mind of it.
+At nine o'clock we pursued our journey, the stream we passed over is
+called by Grosclaude: "The Raw Hide." Elder Kimball let me have his
+horse to ride. I went in company with George A. Smith who was on foot
+carrying his gun in fulfillment of President Young's prophecy at the
+Pawnee Mission station. The wagons went on till half past eleven and
+then halted for noon. We were about a mile ahead of them. The distance
+they traveled was four and a half miles. At half past one, started
+out again and traveled till a little after four o'clock and saw Fort
+Laramie about four miles to the southwest. Elder Kimball and President
+Young then came up to where Brother Woodruff and I were looking out
+for feed and we started on, President Young having stopped the wagons,
+and went to the ford opposite to the fort. It was finally concluded to
+form our encampment here on the banks of the river. Several men soon
+came down from the fort which is about two miles from here and made
+themselves known as a part of the Mississippi company from Pueblo. They
+have been here two weeks. It caused us much joy to meet with brethren
+in this wild region of country and also because we should have some
+news from the brethren in the army. Luke Johnson being up here with
+the boat and several others coming up, they got the boat into the
+river to go over and see the brethren. And Luke Johnson, John Brown,
+Joseph Mathews and Porter Rockwell started over and about the same
+time, Presidents Young and Kimball started back to bring the camp up.
+When the brethren got over the river Brother Brown met several whom he
+knew and soon returned bringing Brother Crow and his son-in-law over
+to this side. The brethren seemed pleased to meet us. Brother Crow
+reports deaths in the Pueblo detachment since Brothers Tippets and
+Woolsey left, viz. Melcher Oyler, Arnold Stevens. They also state that
+Soloman Tindall was on the point of death. The other portion of the
+battalion they had not heard from. The Pueblo brethren are expected to
+receive their pay and start for this point, at latest by this date,
+and will probably be here in about two weeks. They also recorded that
+three traders from the mountains arrived here six days ago, having
+come from Sweet Water in six days and nights. They traveled day and
+night with horses and mules to prevent their starving to death as there
+is no feed up there. Two of their oxen had died already, etc. The
+snow was two feet deep at Sweet Water when they left, so that we are
+evidently plenty soon enough for feed. At 5:45 the wagons arrived and
+formed encampment on the banks of the river in the form of a V, having
+traveled this afternoon, seven and a half miles and during the day,
+twelve, making a total from Winter Quarters to Fort Laramie 543¼ miles
+and we have traveled it in seven weeks lacking a half a day, but we
+have traveled but a few miles on Sundays. We have arrived so far on our
+journey without accident except the loss of two horses by Indians and
+two killed. We have been prosperous on our journey, the camp are all in
+better health than when we left Winter Quarters and we see daily that
+the Lord blesses us and directs the movements of this camp as seemeth
+Him good and as is for our good and prosperity. The road today has been
+mostly sandy and heavy on teams with but little feed in any place. The
+country begins to have a more hilly and mountainous appearance. Some
+of the Black Hills show very plain from here. The timber is mostly ash
+and cottonwood on the low bottoms near the river. There is some cedar
+on the bluffs. In one of the large ash trees in the middle of the camp
+is an Indian babe or papoose. It cannot be said to be buried, but
+deposited, being first wrapped with a skin and then tied between two
+of the highest limbs of the tree. This is said to be the way they bury
+their dead. The bark is all peeled off the tree below, I suppose to
+prevent the wolves from getting up.
+
+Wednesday, June 2
+
+The morning pleasant. About nine o'clock started over the river in
+company with the Twelve and others to view the fort and also learn
+something in regard to our journey, etc. Elder Pratt measured the
+distance across the river at this spot and found it to be 108 yards.
+The water is deep in the channel and the current runs about four miles
+an hour. After crossing we went up to the remains of an old fort called
+Fort Platte which is near the banks of the river, the outside walls
+still standing, but the inside is in ruins, having been burned up.
+The walls are built of adobes or Spanish brick, being large pieces
+of tempered clay dried in the sun and apparently laid one on another
+without mortar or cement. The dimensions of this fort outside are 144
+feet east to west, and from north to south 103 feet. There is a large
+door fronting to the south which has led to the dwellings which have
+been fourteen in number, built in the form of a parallelogram, leaving
+a large space in the center. The space occupied by the dwelling is not
+quite half of the whole fort. Fronting to the east is another large
+door which opens upon a large open space 98¾ feet by 47 feet where it
+is supposed they used to keep horses, etc. At the northwest corner is
+a tower projecting out from the line of the walls six feet each way,
+or, in other words it is twelve feet square with port holes for cannon.
+At the northeast corner has been another projection extending eastward
+29½ feet and is 19½ feet wide. The walls are 11 feet high and 30
+inches thick. We took the dimensions of this with a tape line and then
+proceeded to Fort Laramie about two miles farther west. This latter
+fort was first built of wood about thirteen years since, and named
+Fort William, but being destroyed was afterwards built seven years
+ago with adobes and named John. It stands on the bank of the Laramie
+fork. Laramie fork is a stream forty-one yards wide, a very swift
+current, but not deep. We tarried a little while with the Mississippi
+brethren who have camped close by the fort and then went inside. We
+were politely welcomed by Mr. Bordeau who appears to be the principal
+officer. He conducted us up a flight of stairs into a comfortable room
+and being furnished with seats, we rested ourselves. President Young
+and others entered into conversation with Mr. Bordeau. From him we
+learned that we cannot travel over four miles farther on the north
+side the Platte before we come to bluffs which cannot be crossed with
+loaded wagons. The road is better on this side than the one we have
+traveled, it being hard and not sandy. Feed scarce mostly lying in
+little patches near the river. They send their furs to Fort Pierre on
+the Missouri river a distance of 400 miles by land and receive all
+their stores and provisions back by the same teams, except their meat
+which they kill, there being buffalo within two days' drive. They
+have tried making a garden and planting corn which did well enough
+the first year, but afterwards they could raise nothing for want of
+rain. They have had no rain for two years until a few days ago. They
+have got a flat boat which will carry two wagons easily which we can
+have for fifteen dollars or he will ferry us over for $18.00 or 25c a
+wagon. From the door of this room one can see the same black hill seen
+on Sunday evening and which is Laramie Peak. We could see the snow
+lying on it very plainly. We can also see several ranges of high hills
+in the distance which are no doubt parts of the Black Hills. We went
+across the square to the trading house which lies on the north side
+of the western entrance. The trader opened his store and President
+Young entered into conversation with him. They trade solely with the
+Sioux. The Crows come here for nothing but to steal. A few weeks ago
+a party came down and stole twenty-five horses, all that they had at
+the fort, although they were within 300 yards of the fort at the time
+and a guard around them. The Sioux will not steal on their own land.
+A pair of moccasins are worth a dollar, a lariat a dollar, a pound of
+tobacco a dollar and a half, and a gallon of whiskey $32.00. They have
+no sugar, coffee or spices as their spring stores have not yet arrived.
+They have lately sent to Fort Pierre, 600 bales of robes with ten robes
+in each bale. Their wagons have been gone forty-five days, etc. The
+blacksmith shop lies on the south side of the western entrance. There
+are dwellings inside the fort beside that of Mr. Bordeau's. The south
+end is divided off and occupied for stables, etc. There are many souls
+at this fort, mostly French, half-breeds, and a few Sioux Indians.
+Elder Pratt measured the river and found it forty-one yards. He also
+took the latitude which was 42° 12' 13". Brother Bullock told me that
+several of the brethren had picked up a number of beads off the ant
+hills. Curiosity led me to go and examine and I found it even so. It
+appears that the ants gather all the small pebbles they can carry and
+build them over their hills to prevent the strong winds from blowing
+them away, and amongst the rest, they picked up beads which have been
+lost off the Indians' moccasins and robes, etc. I picked up quite a
+number. Brother Bullock and I took the dimensions of the fort which
+will be given in another place. We then got on board the boat and had
+a pleasant ride about three miles down the Laramie fork to its mouth,
+the current being very swift. At the mouth, the brethren mostly got on
+shore and towed the boat up to camp. After dinner I went over again in
+the cutter which was going to fish with the seine in the Laramie fork.
+They caught sixty or seventy small fish, salmon, suckers, etc. About
+six o'clock we returned to camp. The Twelve have decided that Amasa
+Lyman shall go with Brothers Woolsey, Tippets and Stevens to Pueblo.
+They start tomorrow. Longitude at Fort Laramie 104° 11' 53". I have
+seen three birds here which very much resemble the English magpie in
+size, shape and color, in fact I know of no difference between the two.
+We passed a number of currant bushes about four miles back, quite thick
+with young, green currants. On the morning of the 4th of June, I put
+up a guide board on the north side of the river at the ferry with the
+following inscription on it, viz. Winter Quarters 543¼ miles, junction
+of the forks 227½ miles. Ash Hollow 142¼ miles, Chimney Rock 70¼ miles,
+Scott's Bluffs 50½ miles. Wm. Clayton, June 4, 1847. Elder Pratt took
+the altitude of Fort Laramie and found it to be 4,090 feet above the
+level of the sea. Fremont makes 4,470, differing 380 feet.
+
+Thursday, June 3
+
+The morning cold with strong southeast wind. The first division
+commenced ferrying over the river at five o'clock and took a wagon over
+every fifteen minutes. After breakfast I went over and wrote a letter
+for Elder Kimball to James Brown at Pueblo, then walked up to a high
+bluff on the northwest to view the country, but not being able to see
+far from it, I went to another over a mile farther northwest. Although
+this last was very high I could see nothing but a succession of high
+ranges of bluffs as far as I could see, except the narrow space through
+which the river winds its course. Seeing some heavy thunder clouds
+rising very rapidly from the northwest I returned to camp and arrived
+just before the rain commenced. Elders A. Lyman, Thomas Woolsey, John
+H. Tippets and Roswell Stevens started at 11:15 on horses and mules for
+Pueblo. President Young, Kimball, Richards and Pratt accompanied them
+to the Laramie fork and then held a council, kneeled down and dedicated
+them to God and blessed them. The four then forded the river and went
+on their journey, the others returned to camp. At half past 1:00 p.m.
+it commenced raining heavily accompanied by hail, lightning and very
+loud thunder, which lasted till 3:30 p.m. During the storm, the horses
+were mostly secured in the old fort. The ferrying ceased till it was
+fair again, and about five o'clock the first division were all over.
+The boat was then manned by the second division, John S. Higbee,
+captain. They averaged a wagon across in eleven minutes and one in ten
+minutes and one in ten minutes and twenty seconds. The quickest trip
+made by the first division was thirteen minutes. About seven o'clock
+it commenced raining again from the southeast and rained heavily,
+consequently the brethren quit ferrying, leaving three companies of
+about fifteen wagons on the other side. All the wagons would have been
+taken over today if it had not been stormy.
+
+There is a report come in that there are 2,000 wagons on the road to
+Oregon, but a little distance behind, but we are satisfied the report
+is exaggerated. There are eighteen wagons camped about three miles
+below and one of the men who has come to the fort says that they have
+counted over 500 wagons. They have lost four horses by the Indians.
+
+Friday, June 4
+
+Morning very fine. Laramie peak shows very plain. The brethren
+commenced ferrying at 4:40 a.m., and at eight o'clock the last wagon
+was over. I walked up to a high bluff with Carlos Murray and picked up
+some stalactites clear as crystal supposed to be isinglass. The bluff
+is very high and almost perpendicular and it is dangerous to get to the
+crystals.
+
+At nine o'clock President Young, Kimball, W. Richards, A. P.
+Rockwood and T. Bullock walked up to Fort Laramie and returned soon
+after eleven o'clock. They have learned very favorable reports about
+Bear River Valley, being well timbered, plenty of good grass, light
+winters, little snow and abundance of fish, especially spotted trout,
+in the streams. About half past eleven o'clock Brother Crow's company
+came down and joined in with the second division and at twelve we
+started on our journey again, following the Oregon road. We traveled
+three miles and at 20 minutes past 1:00, halted near some good grass to
+let our teams feed. The weather is very warm though many light clouds
+are flying. The bluffs come near the river and are very high, steep,
+and look like sand. During the halt I went up on a very high bluff
+near by with my glass. I found it very difficult of ascent. From the
+top I could see Laramie peak very plainly and also some hills a long
+way off to the northwest. The country looks very hilly as far as can
+be seen and the snow on the peak shows quite plain. At half past two
+we continued our journey and found the road sandy and very uneven. At
+the distance of seven and three quarters miles from Fort Laramie we
+descended a very steep pitch or hill. All the wagons had to be locked
+and we were some time getting down. We went on half a mile farther and
+formed our encampment in a circle at half past five, having traveled
+eight and a quarter miles today. At half past five we had a shower
+accompanied by a little lightning and heavy thunder. I will now give
+the list of names of Brother Crow's company who have joined the camp
+today to go with this pioneer camp. They are as follows:
+
+Robert Crow, Elizabeth Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, Elizabeth Jane Crow,
+John McHenry Crow, Walter H. Crow, Geo. W. Therlkill, Matilla Jane
+Therlkill, Milton Howard Therlkill, James William Therlkill, William
+Parker Crow, Isa Vinda Exene Crow, Ira Minda Almarene Crow, Archibald
+Little, James Chesney and Lewis B. Myers, seventeen in number, making
+the total number of souls in this pioneer camp, after deducting four
+gone to Pueblo, 161.
+
+Lewis B. Myers is represented as knowing the country to the mountains,
+having traveled it, and I am told that he came as a guide to Brother
+Crow. They have five wagons, one cart, eleven horses, twenty-four oxen,
+twenty-two cows, three bulls and seven calves.
+
+Inasmuch as there have been some changes in horses and mules, I will
+endeavor to state them and give the number we started with from Fort
+Laramie. Two horses killed by accident. Two horses stolen by the
+Pawnees at Gravel creek; one mule traded for a pony by Brother Markham;
+three horses and one mule gone with the brethren to Pueblo; one horse
+traded by O. P. Rockwell for three cows and two calves; one horse
+traded by John Pack for three buffalo robes; one horse traded by T.
+Brown for a pony at Laramie; one pony traded by J. S. Higbee to
+the Sioux for a pony. These changes with the addition made by Brother
+Crow's company make the number as follows: horses 95, mules 51, head of
+oxen 100, cows 41, bulls 3, calves 7, dogs and chickens, and 77 wagons
+and 1 cart.
+
+Saturday, June 5
+
+The morning pleasant though somewhat cloudy. Elder Kimball gave George
+Billings a lecture about abusing his team, kicking them, etc. He gave
+George some very good advice. The horn sounded early to start but we
+were detained till half past eight on account of several oxen being
+missing. About that time they were found and we pursued our journey.
+After traveling a little over four miles we ascended a steep bluff.
+The road runs on the top of it a little distance in a very crooked
+direction, the surface in some places being hard, uneven rock, which
+shakes and jars the wagons very much. In one place there is a little
+descent and at the bottom a very sharp turn in the road over rough
+rock. Here Brother Crow's cart turned over. However, it was soon
+righted and no injury done to anything. At the west foot is a steep,
+sandy descent but not difficult. The bluff is a half a mile across.
+About a half a mile from the west foot we turned from the river nearly
+a west course and crossed a low gravelly channel where it appears the
+river has run sometime and perhaps does now in high water.
+
+The road after this is considerably crooked and uneven. About a mile
+and a quarter farther we descended again on the same gravelly channel
+and traveled up it a piece and at 11:35 halted for noon opposite a
+very large spring noticed by Fremont. The water of this spring is
+very clear and soft, but considerably warmer than the river water. We
+have traveled this morning six and a half miles. Just as we halted,
+two men came down from the other road on mules to water. They are in
+company with eleven wagons and bound for west of the mountains. They
+say the other road from Laramie is only ten miles to the spring while
+our road has been 14¾ miles. About a half an hour after we stopped, we
+had a nice shower. The 1st division halted about a quarter of a mile
+back from here. Latitude at the warm springs 42° 15' 6". While we were
+halting, the company above referred to passed down the bluffs and went
+ahead of us. They have got many cows, etc., with them. At 1:40 p.m.
+we resumed our journey. After traveling a mile we turned in a narrow
+pass to the northwest between two high bluffs and traveled a quarter of
+a mile farther, then came to where the road rises a very high, steep
+bluff. At the foot is a short sudden pitch and then a rugged ascent
+for a quarter of a mile. The bluff is rocky and many large cobble
+stones lay in the road which made it hard on teams. Appleton Harmon
+took one of his yoke of cattle and assisted George Billings to the top
+and Brother Johnson took Appleton's steers and put them forward of his
+and brought up his wagon. Appleton and Johnson then took the three
+yoke of oxen and fetched up Appleton's wagon which threw us nearly in
+the rear of all the wagons, none of the rest doubling teams. After
+arriving on the top the road was good but still rising for a quarter of
+a mile farther. We traveled on this high land five and a quarter miles
+which was very good traveling although it was considerably rolling.
+Four and a half miles from the top of the last mentioned bluff, we
+passed a large lone rock, standing far away from any other. At five
+and a quarter miles we descended again from the bluff, the descent
+being steep and lengthy but sandy and good to travel. At the foot of
+the bluff we again crossed the gravelly channel and traveled on and
+alongside about a mile, then descended a little to the bottom prairie
+again. At 6:30 we formed our encampment on the west bank of a small
+stream and near a very good spring of cold water, having traveled this
+afternoon 10½ miles and during the day seventeen.
+
+I have put up two guide boards today. One at 10 and the other at 20
+miles from Fort John or Laramie, but the former name is on the guide
+boards. The bluffs we have passed today are mostly very high, rocky and
+broken, with pine growing on most or nearly all of them. We have pretty
+good feed here and plenty of wood and good water. The gentile camp is a
+little east of us. They say that there were two more companies arrived
+at Fort Laramie this morning as they left, and three other companies
+within twenty miles of Laramie. They left this morning. They left
+Independence on the 22nd of April. They are expecting the mail soon
+on mules, but they anticipate keeping ahead of all the companies. We
+find the road very crooked, but not bad traveling. About dark it rained
+some, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The camp was notified that
+tomorrow will be a day for fasting and prayer as last Sunday.
+
+Sunday, June 6
+
+Morning cloudy, cool, and like for rain. At eight o'clock the eleven
+wagons passed us again. At nine the brethren assembled for prayer
+meeting a little from the camp, but many kept about their wagons, some
+washing and some at other things. At eleven o'clock, four Missourians
+came up mounted, being part of a company a little behind. Some of
+these are recognized by the brethren and they seem a little afraid and
+not fond of our company. They say the old settlers have all fled from
+Shariton, Missouri, except two tavern keepers, and I feel to wish that
+their fears may follow them even to Oregon. At half past eleven just
+as the brethren again assembled for meeting it commenced raining hard,
+accompanied by lightning and heavy thunder which caused the meeting to
+break up abruptly. During the storm, the Missouri company passed by us,
+having nineteen wagons and two carriages. Most of their wagons have
+five yoke of cattle to each, and few less than four. They have many
+cows, horses and young cattle with them. They have a guide with them
+who lives on the St. Mary's River at the Columbia. He says we shall
+find water again about six miles from here and then no more for fifteen
+miles farther. It was then considered wise to move on this afternoon as
+we cannot well reach the second watering place in one day. Soon after
+twelve o'clock the weather cleared off, the sun shone and looks like
+for being fine. The wind blows strong from the west. At half past 2:00
+p.m. the camp began to move forward. About three quarters of a mile
+we crossed the same small stream again, and two miles further arrived
+at a sudden bend in the road to the south about two hundred yards and
+then as sudden to the north the same distance occasioned by the water
+having washed a deep gulf where the road ought to run. A mile beyond
+this the wagons came to a halt in a body of timber and brushwood at
+four o'clock, and halted while the brethren on horseback, viz. Elder
+Young, Kimball and Woodruff, went ahead to look for a camping ground.
+They returned at 4:40 and the camp proceeded on. Having proceeded a
+quarter of a mile we passed the camp of the nineteen wagons close by
+the timber a little south of the road. Several of the men came to look
+at the roadometer, having heard from some of the brethren that we had
+one. They expressed a wish to each other to see inside and looked upon
+it as a curiosity. I paid no attention to them inasmuch as they did
+not address themselves to me. At a quarter past 5:00 p.m. we formed
+our encampment in an oblong circle, at the foot of a low bluff on the
+west and close by water, having traveled five miles. The feed here is
+very good and plentiful. Wind strong from the west. Road very crooked,
+mostly a southwest and west course. There is plenty of timber all along
+and the soil looks good on the low lands. One of the men in the company
+of the nineteen wagons told G. A. Smith that he had broken his
+carriage spring and seemed much troubled to know what to do to get
+along. He asked George if there was any man in our company who could
+fix it. George told him there was. After we were camped, Burr Frost set
+up his forge and welded the spring ready to put on before dark.
+
+Monday, June 7
+
+Morning fine. Elder Pratt gave me some instructions on the use of the
+sextant and showed me how to take an observation. He has promised to
+teach me to take observations and calculate latitude and longitude
+and I intend to improve the opportunity. At 6:30 the Missouri company
+passed through again. And at ten minutes past seven we commenced our
+onward course. Dr. Richards left a letter in a guide board 30¼ miles
+to Fort John. I walked about five miles mostly in company with Elder
+Pratt conversing on astronomy and philosophical subjects. Elder Kimball
+then let me have his horse to ride. We traveled till eleven o'clock
+and then halted to feed on the west bank of a small stream and spring
+of clear water, having traveled 7¾ miles, mostly a north of northwest
+course. The road more even and good traveling. Soon after we halted,
+another company of Missourians passed us, having thirteen wagons and
+mostly four yoke of oxen to each. They say they are from Andrew County,
+Missouri. At 12:35 we moved forward. At a quarter of a mile began to
+ascend a bluff which was a quarter of a mile from the bottom to the
+top, the ascent gradual and tolerably steep. From the top of this hill
+we had as pleasant a view of the surrounding country as I have ever
+witnessed. Laramie peak appears only a few miles to the southwest, and
+from that around to the west, north, and northeast, a very extensive
+view of a beautiful country for many miles, indeed, as far as the
+eye could survey. From a fair view of the peak I am satisfied that
+the Black Hills, of which this is a prominent part, are so named
+from the vast forests of pine trees covering their surface and being
+of a dark green color within a few miles of them. The pine grows in
+the most rocky places and abounds on the highest hills, while on the
+lower bluffs it is sparsely scattered and in the bottom land, which
+looks rich and good, there are none. We have passed many noble trees
+and there is no lack of good pine timber in this region. The peak is
+very high, and very broken and craggy, the snow still lying on its
+summit and plainly visible with the naked eye. The ridge over which
+we passed was a half a mile over from the southeast to the northwest
+foot. At that distance we began to descend and had to lock the wagons
+in several places. The descent was rendered unpleasant by the many
+large cobble stones scattered in the road. Many of the brethren threw
+them out of the road as we went along and the road is much improved.
+They have also dug down some places and leveled others, which will
+make the road much better for other companies. At half past three we
+arrived at Horse Creek and formed our encampment on the bottom land
+near the timber or rather in the midst of a grove of ash, cottonwood,
+etc., having traveled five and a quarter miles this afternoon over
+crooked road and during the day, thirteen miles. On this camp ground
+is one of the clearest and largest springs of water I have seen for a
+long time. Elder Kimball having discovered it, he calls it his spring
+or Heber's spring. The creek is also clear and said to have trout in
+it. The feed is much better and more plentiful than we have ever met
+with on this journey. There is abundance of wild mint and sage growing
+here; the mint seems to perfume the air. The sage grows in abundance on
+all this sandy land. There are also many wild currant bushes in full
+bloom and prickley pears all along the road. The other companies were
+all within two miles when we arrived here, but mostly going on a few
+miles farther. A little before we stopped, we had a thunder storm which
+lasted upwards of an hour. During the latter part of it, it rained very
+heavily accompanied by hail and thunder and lightning. Our hunters have
+killed a long-tailed deer and an antelope, which were distributed as
+usual. Brother Crow's hunter also killed a deer, but they are unwilling
+to conform to the rules of the camp in dividing and reserve it all
+to themselves. Brother Crow observed that if they got more than they
+could use they would be willing to let the camp have some. Some of the
+other companies killed an antelope, took off the quarters and left the
+balance on the ground. Brother Pack picked it up and brought it along.
+After we stopped Brother Crow came near meeting with an accident while
+endeavoring to yoke up a pair of wild steers. It took a number of
+men to hold them, having lariats on their saddle-horns. They got the
+lariats entangled round their legs and Brother Crow also, throwing one
+of the steers down and he fast with it. They cut the rope and he was
+liberated without injury. Myers, the hunter, roasts the young antlers
+of the deer and eats them. In regard to Brother Crow's meat, etc., I
+afterwards learned that the whole family had to depend on Myers for
+what they eat, having no bread stuff, nor anything only what he kills,
+and the little flour and meal paid to him for a part of the ferryage,
+he having a small claim on Bordeau. After supper, walked out with Elder
+Kimball and was joined by George A. Smith. Brother Smith told me of a
+good opportunity of sending a letter to my family by some traders who
+are expected down every day and I feel to improve the opportunity. We
+had a very strong wind at night, so much that I could not write.
+
+Tuesday, June 8
+
+Morning fine though cool. At half past seven we proceeded on our
+journey crossing the Horseshoe creek, which is about a rod wide. We
+traveled two and a quarter miles, winding around the foot of high
+bluffs and then began to ascend them. We found this ascent the worst
+we have ever had, being three quarters of a mile up, and having in
+that distance seven very steep rises. On most of them the teams had to
+double. We saw a buffalo about a half a mile to the south which is the
+first we have seen since about the 21st of May. Two and a half miles
+from the east foot of the last bluff we passed over a small creek,
+nearly dry, and then ascended another high bluff but not nearly so
+bad a rise as the other one. At 11:45 we halted for noon near a very
+small creek with but little water in it, having traveled six and three
+quarters miles over hills and valleys, the roads being very crooked.
+About half an hour before we halted, Harriet Crow got run over with one
+of their wagons. The teams had stopped near the descent from the bluffs
+and she stepped on the wagon tongue to get a drink. The cattle started
+suddenly, threw her under the wheel which passed over her leg below the
+knee and downwards, passing over her foot above the toes. She screamed
+and appeared in great agony. We thought her leg was broken, but were
+soon satisfied to the contrary. Her foot was badly bruised but I think
+there was nothing broken. One of the women washed it with camphor. She
+was then put into a wagon and we proceeded on. Latitude 42° 29' 58".
+
+At 1:40 we proceeded. After traveling a little over a mile and a
+half we passed another small creek, and again ascended a high bluff.
+We found this ridge more uneven than the other, it being a perfect
+succession of hills and hollows for five miles. The road was good
+and hard. While traveling on the top the wind blew very strong from
+the west and it was so cold that we suffered some. The road over was
+indeed very crooked but mostly bending to the north. We could see a
+long distance from the top. The country to the north looks more even
+but south and southwest very hilly and broken. At five miles we began
+to descend gradually, and while watching the roadometer I discovered
+it did not work right which made me pay more attention to it. At ten
+minutes past six we crossed a stream about thirty feet wide and nearly
+two feet deep with a very swift current. It is named on Fremont's map
+as La Bonte river. We formed our encampment on the west bank in the
+timber having traveled this afternoon 8¾ miles and during the day 15½.
+The evening is very cold and much appearance of rain. Porter Rockwell
+has killed a deer and someone else an antelope. Porter says he has been
+on the Platte which is about four miles from here following the La
+Bonte. Soon after we stopped, the men came into camp who were expected
+to carry a letter. They are camped about a mile west of us. I finished
+my letter to my family by candle light, as it is contemplated to start
+in the morning before breakfast and go a few miles to better feed.
+
+Wednesday, June 9
+
+Arose at 4:20 and at 5:15 a.m. we moved onward, keeping near the La
+Bonte. At 5:45 halted for breakfast beside the traders' camp, having
+come a mile and a quarter. I sent my letter to them by Aaron Farr, a
+number of the brethren also sending letters. While we halted I got
+the roadometer fixed again and also put up a guide board marked "To
+Fort John 60 miles." These traders or mountaineers said they had left
+a kind of ferry made of three buffalo skins hung in a tree on the
+Platte and wanted Brother Crow's company to have it. It was decided
+to send a company ahead to overreach the Missouri companies and get
+the ferry before they could arrive, and also build a raft for us to
+cross on, kill game, etc. The men say it is about seventy miles to
+where we cross the river. Nineteen wagons were sent ahead and about
+forty men to attend to this business. All of Brother Crow's company
+went, Aaron Farr, J. Redding, the cutter, etc., being five wagons from
+the 1st division and fourteen from the 2nd. They started about half
+an hour before we started. We proceeded at 7:45 and immediately after
+starting had to cross a very steep gulf, being difficult for teams to
+get up, though it was not long. Soon after this, four men passed us
+with pack horses and mules. They say they are from Pueblo and going
+to Green River; they told others they were from Santa Fe and going to
+San Francisco. We found the road very hilly and uneven and crooked as
+yesterday. At three and three quarters miles passed over a branch of
+the La Bonte, a stream about ten feet wide but not deep. The descent
+and ascent being very steep, most of the teams required assistance to
+get up. For half a mile before we crossed this stream and three and a
+half miles after, our road lay over a kind of red earth or sand about
+the color of red precipitate. Most of the rocks and bluffs are of the
+same red color, only a deeper red. It affected my eyes much from its
+brightness and strange appearance. About one and a quarter miles west
+of the creek President Young and Kimball saw a large toad which had
+horns on its head and a tail. It did not jump like a toad but crawled
+like a mouse. This was seen near a large pile of rock or rather a hill.
+At 12:40 we halted for noon having come ten miles since breakfast.
+There is little water here for the teams. The day fine and nice west
+breeze. The road is very crooked, hilly, and mostly rocky, many large
+cobble stones covering the bluffs, the land barren and little grass.
+The ground here is covered with large crickets which are so numerous,
+to walk without stepping on them is almost impossible.
+
+At half past two o'clock we were on the move again. I put up another
+guide board a little east of the creek: "70 miles." We found the road
+much better this afternoon, not being so uneven, and tolerably straight
+excepting a bluff to climb a mile from the creek. At the foot of this
+bluff I saw a toad with a tail like a lizard, about three inches long.
+It had no horns but there was the appearance of horns just coming on
+each side of the head. It resembles a lizard in color, tail, and motion
+when running swiftly through the grass. Its hide appeared hard and on
+its sides appeared numerous little sharp pointed fins or pricks. In
+other respects it resembled any common toad. At a quarter past one we
+formed our encampment on the east banks of a stream about a rod wide,
+two feet deep and swift current. It is named the A La Pierre. We have
+traveled eight miles this afternoon and during the day 19¼. We have a
+good place for feed but the higher land is barren, abounding only in
+wild sage. There are still some high bluffs around but the country west
+appears much more level. The evening fine but cool. After traveling six
+and a quarter miles from noon halt, passed a small creek, and again
+three quarters of a mile farther passed the same creek. Sterling Driggs
+killed an antelope and a deer.
+
+Thursday, June 10
+
+The morning calm and very pleasant. There is wild mint growing on the
+bank of this stream in great plenty and abundance of wild sage on all
+the higher land. The mint smells natural, but the sage smells strong
+of turpentine and a little like camphor. Started at half past seven
+and found good roads. At four and a half miles passed over a small
+creek about three feet wide but not much water, being only a few inches
+deep. A mile farther passed another creek about five feet wide, clear
+water and plentiful. At 11:20 we halted on the east bank of a stream
+about thirty feet wide and tolerably deep with a rapid current, having
+come eight and three quarters miles. We have had several long, steep
+bluffs to ascend and descend and two places at the creeks where it was
+hard for the teams to get up without help. We saw one of the Missouri
+companies a few miles ahead of us. Edmund Elsworth killed an antelope.
+There is good feed here and plentiful. Our road has been crooked mostly
+winding northward. The creek on which we camped last night is named
+A La Pierre and about a mile from where the road crosses, it runs
+through a tunnel from ten to twenty rods under the high rocky bluffs.
+The tunnel is high enough for a man to stand upright in it, and when
+standing at the entrance one can see the light through on the other
+side. It seems as though this tunnel has been formed by some strange
+feat of nature. Several of the brethren went to see it. Lewis Barney
+and another brother each killed an antelope which were brought into
+camp during the halt and divided. The brethren carried the two last
+about five miles on their shoulders. We have learned today from one
+of the travelers that there is one man living and making a farm in
+the Bear River valley. At a quarter to 2:00 we continued our journey.
+Found the road somewhat more even and good traveling. I put a guide
+board this morning at 80 miles from Fort John, and this afternoon after
+traveling three and a quarter miles from noon halt I put up another
+mark at 90 miles. Just as I finished setting it, I looked forward and
+saw the Platte river again. After descending a half a mile we were on
+its banks, being 77 miles since we left it on Saturday last, after
+having wound around among the hills and bluffs all the way. When we
+arrived near the river the road was more level but sandy and harder
+on our teams. There are also some low places where the water stands,
+making it soft, but scarcely any feed for teams since we left the creek
+at noon. At a quarter to six we passed another stream about thirty feet
+wide and two feet deep, swift current and clear water. Name is Deer
+Creek. There is plenty of timber on its banks and abundance of good,
+rich grass for our teams. We formed our encampment on the west bank
+in a grove of large timber. About a mile back we passed a sick horse
+supposed to be left by some of the companies ahead. Brother Markham
+bled it in its mouth, but could not get it along and had to leave it.
+The distance we have traveled this afternoon was nine miles and during
+the day 17¾ miles, the last five miles being nearly a west course. Soon
+after we camped, Horace Whitney went to fishing in this stream. We were
+soon satisfied that there are plenty of fish in it. I got a line and
+went to fishing also and in a few minutes caught two which would weigh
+a half a pound each. We then went a piece below the ford and by fishing
+till a little after dark I caught twenty-four nice fish which would
+average over a half a pound each, and some of them would weigh over a
+pound each. The ones I caught were of a very bright color and very much
+resembled the herring, but much larger. Horace caught a cat fish and
+two suckers. A number of brethren also caught more and some less. There
+is abundance of fish in this stream and we might have caught enough
+for all the camp with the sein but it is ahead with those who are gone
+to build a raft. The Twelve and some others walked out together to the
+river about a quarter of a mile up the stream. Some of the brethren
+discovered a rich bed of stone coal where any quantity might easily be
+dug, and it is said to look good and is a fine quality. The land here
+on the bottom is rich and would doubtless yield good crops of grain and
+potatoes, etc. Lewis Barney killed an antelope this afternoon which was
+distributed as he saw fit, inasmuch as he was not appointed a hunter.
+The evening is very fine, calm and pleasant indeed.
+
+Friday, June 11
+
+Arose at four o'clock to try and get some more fish. Morning fine and
+warm, but caught only four. I procured a sample of the stone coal from
+G. A. Smith. It looks good. This place reminds me of England. The
+calm, still morning with the warbling of many birds, the rich grass,
+good streams, and plenty of timber, make it pleasant. At 7:35 we again
+continued our journey along the banks of the river which appears
+somewhat wider here than at Laramie. At two and a half miles we passed
+a deep hollow, the banks on both sides being very steep. At four and a
+quarter miles put up a guide board at 100 miles from Laramie, having
+traveled it in a week lacking two and a quarter hours. At 11:50 we
+halted for noon in a grove of timber where there is plenty of good
+feed for a large company. The land since morning has been generally
+level, but sandy and no grass. The road somewhat crooked. About a mile
+back we came around a bend to the south caused by a deep ravine. We
+had to travel more than a mile to make a quarter of a mile direct.
+William Empey, Edmund Elsworth, and Francis M. Pomeroy, each killed an
+antelope. Several of the brethren have taken an interest in the guide
+boards and wherever they see a piece of board sufficiently large, they
+pick it up and preserve it. By this means we have now got enough to
+last 200 miles. The distance we have traveled since morning is nine and
+a quarter miles, being 105 miles in the week including Sunday, or 100
+miles in six days. About half an hour after we halted, Brother Joseph
+Hancock came in with the hind quarters of an antelope which he killed
+about three miles back. He could not carry the remainder and left it on
+the ground. At two o'clock we started again. After traveling one mile,
+we crossed a very crooked, muddy creek, about twelve feet wide and over
+a foot deep. The descent and ascent were both bad on account of a crook
+from one to the other. There is plenty of feed on its banks, but no
+wood. Five and three-quarters miles farther another muddy creek about
+three feet wide and bad to cross on account of the clay being very soft
+in its banks. The balance of the road good, but considerably crooked.
+At half past five o'clock we came to a halt on account of seeing a
+number of wagons about a half mile ahead which proved to be two of
+the Missouri companies camped on the banks of the river and preparing
+to cross here. It was also ascertained that there is no camping place
+beyond them unless we go some distance. It was decided to turn off to
+the river opposite where we are and camp for the night and the wagons
+proceeded accordingly. We went a half a mile from the road and at six
+o'clock formed our encampment near the river where there is plenty of
+timber, having come on the road this afternoon seven and three-quarters
+miles and during the day seventeen miles, exclusive of the distance we
+turned off to camp. The feed here is good and plentiful. The region on
+the banks of the river is pretty level, but a few miles to the south
+there are very high bluffs. Very little chance for feed except in
+places on the banks of the river and generally where there is timber.
+These Missourian companies inform us that the regular crossing place is
+twelve miles farther and that our brethren are gone on there and also
+the balance of the Missourian companies. These men have got a light
+flat boat with them and have already got one load over. They say they
+have killed three bears between here and the bluffs. They have also
+killed a buffalo. There have been signs of bears seen by our brethren
+a number of times, but no bears for a certainty. We have only seen
+one buffalo since we left Laramie until today, when several have been
+seen. One of the Missourians brought a snow ball from the hill on the
+south. He gave Rockwood a piece of it, and he brought it to camp. Elder
+Kimball and several others saw it which now convinces us snow is yet
+lying on these high bluffs. Henson Walker, Charles Barnum and Brother
+Owens have each killed an antelope this afternoon, making eight during
+the day.
+
+Saturday, June 12
+
+Morning very fine with nice east breeze. Brother Markham has learned
+this morning that Obadiah Jennings was the principal in killing Bowman
+in Missouri. Bowman was one of the guard who let Joseph and Hyrum and
+the others get away when prisoners in Missouri. The mob suspected him
+and rode him on a bar of iron till they killed him. At a quarter past
+eight o'clock we continued our journey. At one and a half miles crossed
+a deep gulch pretty difficult to descend but not bad to ascend. One and
+three-quarters miles farther, we crossed a small creek about two feet
+wide on a bridge which the brethren fixed, they having started ahead
+of the wagons for that purpose. One mile beyond the last mentioned
+creek we crossed another muddy stream about five feet wide, and one
+and a half feet deep. At a quarter to 12:00, we halted after crossing
+another large ravine, having traveled seven and three-quarters miles
+over a sandy, barren prairie. In some places it is soft, although the
+soil is much like clay in appearance. The road somewhat crooked, and
+the day fine and warm. During the halt, Brother Rockwood called upon
+the brethren to help fix another ravine immediately west of us. Many
+turned out and it was soon done. James Case and S. Markham went to the
+river opposite here to see if it could be forded. They waded their
+horses over and found the water about four feet six inches deep in the
+channel and the current very swift. Of course it could not be forded
+with loads in the wagons, but the loading would have to be ferried in
+the boat. They made a report of this kind on their return to camp and
+about the same time Brother Chesley came down from the brethren ahead
+and reported their progress and the nature of the crossing place, etc.
+A number of the brethren in company with Elder Kimball and Chesley
+went to the river opposite the camp to decide whether to cross here or
+go on. Brother Markham and Case again went over, but it was finally
+concluded to go up to the other ferry. We accordingly started at half
+past two. I went ahead on foot. At three and a quarter miles, crossed
+a creek about five feet wide. At half past four the encampment was
+formed on the banks of the river, having come four miles, and during
+the day eleven and a quarter. It is about a half a mile from our camp
+to the place where they ferry. I arrived at the brethren's camp at four
+o'clock and learned that they arrived here yesterday about noon. Two
+of the Missourian companies arrived about the same time. The brethren
+concluded that a raft would be of no use on account of the swiftness of
+the current. The Missourian company offered to pay them well if they
+would carry their company over in the boat and a contract was made to
+do so for $1.50 per load, the brethren to receive their pay in flour at
+$2.50 per hundred. They commenced soon after and this evening finished
+their work, and received the pay mostly in flour, a little meal and
+some bacon. They have made $34.00 with the cutter all in provisions
+which is a great blessing to the camp inasmuch as a number of the
+brethren have had no bread stuff for some days. During the afternoon
+yesterday, one of the men of the Missourian company undertook to swim
+across the river with his clothes on. When he reached the current
+he became frightened and began to moan. Some of our men went to him
+with the cutter and arrived in time to save his life. The Missourian
+company seem to feel well toward us and express their joy at having got
+across the river so soon. Rodney Badger exchanged wagons with one of
+them and got a wagon as good as his own, only the tire wants setting.
+He got a horse, 100 lbs. flour, 25 lbs. of bacon and some crackers
+to boot. The provisions and horse are considered to be worth as much
+as his wagon. Since the brethren arrived here they have killed three
+buffalo, a grizzly bear and three cubs, and two antelope. The buffalo
+are very fat and the meat is good and sweet. According to the idea of
+some French travelers camped here, the buffalo are making down east
+behind the hills opposite here, which they say is a certain sign that
+the Indians are on Sweet Water hunting them. The brethren say that the
+buffalo are very plentiful back of these hills. When I returned to camp
+I learned that Tunis Rappleyee and Artemas Johnson were missing, the
+former having started for the hills to get a little snow; the latter
+having been hunting all day. A company were sent out with the bugle to
+find them. Brother Rappleyee returned about eleven o'clock. Johnson was
+found by the brethren who returned still later. All agreeing with the
+report that the hills are eight or ten miles distance, although they do
+not appear more than one mile. There were four antelope killed by the
+brethren but divided according to the feelings of those who killed them.
+
+Sunday, June 13
+
+The morning fine and pleasant. At nine o'clock the brethren assembled
+in the circle for prayer and after they had spent some time, Elder
+Kimball arose and addressed them exhorting them to be watchful and
+humble, to remember their covenants and above all things avoid
+everything that will lead to division, etc. He made use of the
+similitude of the potter and the clay to show that every man had the
+privilege of being exalted to honor and glory if he did not mar in
+the hands of the potter, but would continue passive, etc. His remarks
+were very touching and appropriate to our circumstances. President
+Young followed next on the "Liberty of the Gospel" showing that it
+guarantees all fullness of liberty to every man which fact will tend to
+his salvation and increase, but does not give us liberty to break the
+laws of God, to wander off to the mountains and get lost, nor to kill
+the works of God's hands to waste it, etc. He was followed by Elder
+Pratt on the subject of our avoiding all excesses of folly of every
+description, inasmuch as it disqualifies from the society of just men
+and angels. He exhorted the brethren to be watchful and to seek after
+wisdom and knowledge. The meeting was dismissed at half past twelve
+and a company were then dispatched to get poles to lash the wagons
+together to prevent their rolling over when crossing. Another company
+were sent over the river to build a raft to cross over provisions, etc.
+The brethren are gone to work and are diligently preparing to cross the
+river tomorrow. The day has been very hot, more like a summer day than
+any we have yet had on the journey. The ground seems to be alive with
+the large crickets, and it is said that the bears feed on them and pick
+them up very fast. A person who has never seen them could form no idea
+of the vast numbers of crickets in this region. I spent the day writing
+in Elder Kimball's journal. Phineas Young came in from the mountain,
+having killed a deer.
+
+Monday, June 14
+
+Morning cloudy and cool. At four o'clock the first division commenced
+ferrying their goods over the river in the cutter and some time
+afterwards commenced taking the wagons across on a raft which proved
+to be very slow work. The second division also began to take their
+goods over on a raft but the current was so strong they only took two
+loads over in it and then quit. The second division then got a rope
+stretched across the river from shore to shore and lashing two wagons
+fast together to keep them from rolling over, they dragged them over
+by the rope, letting them drift with the current to save breaking the
+rope. When the wagons struck on the sand on the other side the upper
+one keeled over, and finally rolled over the other one, breaking the
+bows considerably and losing iron, etc., in the wagon to the amount of
+$30.00 belonging to John Pack. The other wagon had the reach broken
+and some of the bows. They next lashed four wagons together abreast
+and dragged them over the same way. All got over well except the upper
+one which turned on its side, but it was righted again without damage.
+They next tried one wagon alone, but as soon as it got into the current
+it rolled over and over, breaking the bows pretty badly. The plan of
+taking one wagon at a time on a raft is the safest, no accident having
+occurred with it and the wagons got over dry but it is very slow and
+would take us three or four days to get all the wagons across. The wind
+blows strong from the southwest which is much to our disadvantage. At
+3:30 we had a very heavy thunder storm. The rain was heavy indeed,
+accompanied by hail and as strong a wind as I ever witnessed. After
+the storm was over the ferrying was continued, getting my trunk, etc.,
+and the loads in Brother Johnson and Harmon's wagons over, and also
+Harmon's wagon, Johnson's being got over just before the storm. It took
+till nearly ten o'clock to get the loading into the wagons and get
+regulated. The river has been rising all day and has risen very fast
+since the storm. The men have tried hard, much of the time being in the
+water and sometimes up to their armpits which is very fatiguing indeed.
+When they quit at night the first division had got eleven wagons over,
+the second division twelve, making twenty-three wagons after a very
+hard day's labor. There was no difficulty in getting the freight over
+for one man can carry it in the cutter faster than all the rest of the
+camp can get the wagons over.
+
+Tuesday, June 15
+
+The morning fine but very windy. The brethren continued ferrying wagons
+over on the raft and also built two other rafts. The wind being so high
+they could not get along very fast. In the afternoon they commenced
+driving over some of the horses and cattle belonging to Brother Crow's
+company. They neglected to take the lariats off the horses and the
+buffalo horse was soon seen to be drowning. Some of the men immediately
+went to it with the skiff and dragged him to the shore but could not
+succeed in bringing him to life. His natural make seemed to hurt him
+from swimming. The rest all got over safely. The cattle got over
+safely also; the current was very strong, the wind high and the river
+rising which made it look dangerous to swim the cattle across. It was
+concluded today to leave several brethren here to make a boat and
+keep a ferry till the next company comes up. By that means they will
+probably make enough to supply a large company with provisions. We have
+learned from a Missourian that there is a large company of emigrants
+coming up on the north side of the Platt above Grand Island. There are
+doubtless some of our brethren and if so they will probably reach us
+before we get through. The day continued windy and somewhat inclined to
+storm, but they succeeded in getting nearly twenty wagons over before
+night.
+
+Wednesday, June 16
+
+The morning fine but strong west wind. The brethren continue ferrying.
+A company have gone back about three miles to make two canoes on which
+they intend to build a boat to be used here till the next company
+comes up. Another company also went about half a mile up the river to
+make slabs or puncheons to lay on the canoes. A while before dark the
+brethren returned from below with two good canoes twenty-five feet
+long each and nearly finished and ready to put together. The ferrying
+continued all day but with great difficulty on account of the strong
+wind blowing down stream. When they started over with Brother Goddard's
+wagon the wind was blowing strong. James Craig and Wordsworth were on
+the raft with poles and when they got nearly half way across Brother
+Craig's pole stuck in the sand and threw him overboard. He swam back
+to shore and in spite of Brother Wordsworth's exertions, the wind
+and current carried the raft about two miles down the river. It was
+finally landed by the help of the cutter and without accident. They
+have had three rafts working today, two of which they now work by oars
+which are proving to be far superior to poles in this strong current.
+At the close of day there were still a number of wagons on the south
+shore. Those which had been brought over could not be easily counted on
+account of their being scattered all along the banks of the river for
+about a mile in length. It was now contemplated to leave a company of
+brethren at this ferry to ferry over the gentile companies for a dollar
+and a half a load till the next company of our brethren arrive. This is
+the object for which the new boat is being built. They will thus earn
+a good stock of provisions for themselves and be prepared to set the
+brethren of the next company over without delay and will also be able
+to preserve the boat for our use, for it is the instructions of the
+President that when they have ferried our brethren over to cache the
+boat and come on with them.
+
+Thursday, June 17
+
+The morning fine but windy and cold. The brethren renewed the ferrying
+early and soon after noon they had got the last wagon safely over
+which was a matter of rejoicing to all the camp. Two companies of the
+Missourians had arrived and made application to be set over at a dollar
+and a half a load. When the contract was made with the first company to
+be sent across as soon as our wagons were over, the other company of
+ten wagons offered to pay the brethren 50c per man extra if they would
+set them over first, making $5.00 over the stated price for ferriage
+being ten of the brethren to work at it. Colonel Rockwood had made a
+contract to the above effect with the first company and did not like to
+break it. However, he received a hint that this was Colonel Markham's
+day for the use of the boat and consequently Colonel Markham had a
+right to take the last offer if he chose. He took the hint and they
+went to work forthwith at a dollar and a half a wagon in provisions
+at Missouri prices and 50c extra per man in what they preferred for
+themselves. The afternoon and evening was very cold indeed with a very
+strong wind. After President Young and Kimball got their wagons over,
+being about the last, orders were given for the camp to come together
+and form the wagons in a circle near the ferry. It took till near dark
+before all the wagons got up. The ferrying was continued all night and
+till daylight at which time many of the Missourians' wagons in the two
+companies were over.
+
+Friday, June 18
+
+Morning very cold and windy. The brethren continued working at the
+new boat, others continued ferrying the Missourians' wagons over. It
+was concluded not to start today but wait and assist in finishing the
+boat and also to take the provisions on which will be realized from
+these two companies. After dinner, I went with brother Pack to fish
+in the last creek we crossed about a mile and a half distance. We
+found the fish numerous and had good luck. I caught sixty-five very
+nice ones which would average half a pound weight each. About six
+o'clock I started back but found I had got more than I could easily
+carry to camp. However, when I got about half way, Brother Cloward
+met me and helped to carry them. We arrived at the camp about sundown
+pretty well tired. The afternoon was very warm and pleasant. When we
+arrived the Twelve and some others were going to council. I went with
+them. The names of those who are appointed to tarry were read over as
+follows: Thomas Grover, John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, Appleton Harmon,
+Edmund Ellsworth, Francis M. Pomeroy, William Empey, James Davenport,
+and Benjamin F. Stewart. Thomas Grover was appointed captain. The
+President then referred to Brother Glines who was wishful to stay
+but the president said he had no council for him to tarry, but he
+might do as he had a mind to. Some explanations followed by Glines,
+but the unanimous feeling of the brethren was to have him go on. The
+President preached a short sermon for the benefit of the young elders.
+He represented them as being continually grasping at things ahead
+of them which belong to others. He said the way for young elders to
+enlarge their dominion and power is to go to the world and preach and
+then they can get a train and bring it up to the house of the Lord with
+them, etc. The letter of instructions was then read and approved by the
+brethren and the council was then dismissed.
+
+Saturday, June 19
+
+Morning fine but cool. At 7:50 the camp started out again in good
+health and spirits and the teams in very good order. It was remarked
+by several that their stock had fattened so much while stopping at
+the ferry, they hardly knew them. The grass appears to be rich and
+good. The first six miles of the road was nearly in a west direction
+over several considerably high bluffs. At that distance the road turns
+suddenly to the south and rises up a very high bluff which is upwards
+of a mile from the foot to the summit. There is some interesting
+scenery on the top of this bluff, especially a range of rough, coarse,
+sandy rocks of a dark brown color, rising abruptly above the surface
+of the land in huge masses and ranging east and west. The descent
+on the south side was rough, crooked and uneven, and about half way
+down was a bed of white earth mixed with black in places and others
+yellow. In one place you can pick up small fragments of rock of each
+color within a yard of each other. Towards the foot, the road is still
+more uneven and there are several steep pitches and rises. At one
+o'clock we halted for noon on a spot of good grass about a quarter of
+a mile from a small spring which is the first water we have come to
+since leaving the ferry which is eleven and a quarter miles. There
+is no timber nearer than the bluffs probably two miles away and that
+is small cedar and little of it. The Red Buttes are nearly opposite
+to this place towards the southeast and appear to be two high bluffs
+of red earth or sand, presenting a very triangular, yet interesting
+appearance. After stopping about an hour it was decided to move on
+to the spring and we started accordingly and found it to be a small
+stream of water rising out of the quick sands. At the distance of
+twelve miles from the ferry there is quite a lake of water supposed
+to be supplied by a spring. Indeed we could see the water boil up out
+of the mud in several places. The grass on the banks of this lake is
+good and plentiful but no timber within two miles or upwards. After
+watering teams at the lake, at ten minutes to three we continued our
+journey, bearing near a southwest course over rolling prairie. At the
+distance of eight miles from the spring there is a steep descent from
+a bluff and at the foot there is a high ridge of sharp pointed rocks
+running parallel with the road for near a quarter of a mile, leaving
+only sufficient space for wagons to pass. At the south point there is a
+very large rock lying close to where the road makes a bend, making it
+somewhat difficult to get by without striking it. The road is also very
+rough with cobble stones. At 7:40 we formed our encampment in a small
+spot surrounded by high bluffs, having traveled this afternoon ten
+and a quarter miles and during the day twenty-one and a half which is
+the longest distance we have traveled in one day since we left Winter
+Quarters, and this is considered by all to be the worst camping ground
+we have had on the journey, but we were obliged to take it for there
+is neither wood, grass, nor water since we left the spring. The land
+being perfectly sandy and barren, and nothing growing but wild sage and
+a small prickly shrub something like those on the moors in Lancashire,
+England. There is some grass in this place for our teams but no wood.
+The brethren have to make use of the wild sage and buffalo chips to do
+their cooking. There are two small streams of water, one appears to
+come from the northwest and is not very bad water; the other is from
+the southwest and is so bad that cattle will not drink it. It is strong
+of salt or rather saleratus and smells extremely filthy. Its banks are
+so perfectly soft that a horse or ox cannot go down to drink without
+sinking immediately nearly overhead in thick, filthy mud, and is one
+of the most horrid, swampy, stinking places I ever saw. It was found
+necessary to keep a guard out to prevent the cattle from getting into
+it and orders were given to drive them down a little east where feed is
+pretty good and it is not so dangerous of their miring. The mosquitoes
+are very bad indeed at this place which adds to the loathsome, solitary
+scenery around. Porter Rockwell returned from hunting soon after we had
+camped and reported that he had killed a fat buffalo about two miles
+off. A team was sent to fetch in the meat which they did not return
+till long after dark. Elder Kimball saw six buffalo while riding ahead
+to look out a camp ground. They are represented as being more tame.
+Myers killed two buffalo, but took only the tallow and tongues and left
+the rest to rot on the ground. John Norton and Andrew Gibbons left the
+camp at the springs and went out to hunt, expecting we should stay
+there till Monday. Gibbons has not been seen or heard of since. Norton
+has returned and reports that he has killed a buffalo and left it back
+not far from the spring. About nine o'clock there was an alarm that an
+ox had mired. He was nearly covered but soon got out again.
+
+Sunday, June 20
+
+Morning fine, mosquitoes very bad. Two more oxen found almost buried
+in the mud and all hands appeared wishful to leave this place and
+at a quarter past five o'clock we moved out. The first mile was bad
+traveling, there being several steep pitches in the road making it
+dangerous for axletrees. A number of the brethren went ahead with picks
+and spades and improved the road somewhat. After traveling three and
+three quarters miles we halted for breakfast at seven o'clock beside a
+small clear stream of spring water about a foot wide, but plenty for
+camping purposes. The feed on its banks good and plentiful but no wood
+yet. Elder Kimball states that when he and Elder Benson were riding
+ahead last evening to look out a camping ground they came within a
+quarter of a mile of this place but were not near enough to discover
+the water. A while before they arrived here, as they were riding
+slowly along, they saw six men suddenly spring up from the grass to
+the left of the road. The men were clothed in blankets some white and
+some blue and had every appearance of being Indians and the brethren
+thought they were Indians. The six mounted their horses and started on
+in a direction parallel with the road. The brethren also kept on their
+course. In a little while one of the supposed Indians left the rest
+and rode towards the brethren and motioned with his hand for them to
+go back. They, however, kept on and paid no attention to his motion.
+When he saw them still coming, he wheeled round and joined the others
+who all put spurs to their horses and were soon out of sight behind a
+higher piece of land. Soon as they were out of sight Elder Kimball and
+Benson spurred their horses and rode to the ridge and as they arrived
+there they discovered a camp of the Missourians about a quarter of a
+mile to the left of the road and the six Indians were just entering
+the camp. The brethren were now satisfied that these Indians were
+Missourians and had taken this plan to keep us back from this good camp
+ground. It is considered as an old Missouri trick and an insult to
+the camp, and if they undertake to play Indian again, it is more than
+likely they will meet with Indian treatment. Their camp left here a
+little before we arrived this morning and it is now President Young's
+intention to press on a little faster and crowd them up a little. We
+have learned from one of the emigrants a few miles in our rear that
+Andrew Gibbons tarried with their camp over night. When he returned to
+the spring and found our camp gone and the Missourians' camp there, he
+told them of the dead buffalo killed by Norton. They went and fetched
+what meat they wanted and feasted on it, he joining with them and
+faring well. At a quarter past nine we proceeded on our journey. After
+traveling three miles, we arrived at the Willow spring and halted a
+little while to get water. This spring is about two feet wide and the
+water ten inches deep, perfectly clear, cold as ice water, and very
+good tasting. There is a willow grove extending for some distance
+above and below it which will answer very well for firing purposes.
+The grass is good and plentiful and it is one of the loveliest camping
+spots I have seen on the journey, though the land where the stream runs
+below the spring is soft and some danger of cattle miring. The spring
+is situated between two very high hills and is about three rods west
+of the road and shielded from the sun by a bank about eight feet high
+and the willow grove. A little piece before we arrived at the spring
+there are two very deep ravines to cross, which requires some care
+on the part of the teamsters to prevent accidents. At a quarter of a
+mile beyond the spring we began to ascend a very high hill which was
+one mile from the foot to the top and the ascent pretty steep. The
+summit of this hill is nicely rounding and considered to be much the
+highest we have traveled over. From the top can be seen a vast extent
+of country to the south, west, and north. For about twenty or thirty
+miles to the south there appears to be a tolerably level bottom over
+which our future road runs. Beyond this there are vast ranges of high
+hills whose summits are spotted with snow. In the distance to the
+southwest can be seen a small body of water which we suppose to be a
+part of the Sweet Water river. To the west the ridges of rocks or hills
+appear nearer. They are probably not over fifteen miles from us. On the
+north we can see hills a long distance. The one opposite Red Buttes,
+near the spring where we halted yesterday noon, appears only a few
+miles distance. The view from this hill is one of romantic beauty which
+cannot easily be surpassed and as President Young remarked, would be a
+splendid place for a summer mansion to keep tavern. We then descended
+on the southwest corner of the hill and found it to be just one mile
+farther to the foot. At the distance of three quarters of a mile
+farther we found a good place for feed, being plenty of grass, but no
+water nor wood. At a mile and a quarter still farther we crossed a very
+bad slough which is about a rod across and following the road, nearly
+three feet deep in water and stiff mud. Most of the wagons crossed a
+little to the right of the road and found it not so difficult to cross,
+yet very soft. There is also plenty of good grass at this spot. A mile
+beyond this slough we ascended a very steep bluff though not very high
+and the descent on the southwest is also very steep. At 2:45 we halted
+to feed in a ravine where there is plenty of grass and a good stream
+of water about three hundred yards south from the road but destitute
+of wood. We have traveled this forenoon nine miles over barren, sandy
+land being no grass only in the spots above mentioned. During the halt
+it was decided that President Young take the lead with his wagon and
+try to proceed a little faster. At five o'clock we again proceeded, the
+President's wagon going first; all the others keeping their places.
+I will here remark that it is the order of our traveling for each
+company of ten to go forward in their turn. The first ten in the first
+division taking the lead one day, then on the second day it falls in
+the rear of the first division, the second ten takes the lead and this
+continues till each company of ten have taken the lead one day a piece.
+Then the first division falls in the rear of the second division which
+also begins by companies of ten to take the lead of the road as stated
+above and when each ten have had their day, the second division again
+falls in the rear of the first which continues in the same order. Thus
+every man has his equal privilege of traveling one with another. After
+traveling two and a half miles we descended to the bottom land again
+and saw a small stream a little to the left of the road where there
+is plenty of grass. One and three quarters miles farther we crossed a
+creek of tolerably clear water about six feet wide and one foot deep,
+but neither grass nor timber on its banks. After traveling seven miles
+this afternoon we turned off from the road to the left and at 8:20
+formed our encampment on a ridge near the last mentioned creek where
+there is good feed, having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter
+miles, exclusive of allowance for turning from the road, and during the
+day twenty miles. We had been in hopes of reaching the Sweet Water but
+it appears we are yet some miles from it. The whole country around is
+entirely destitute of timber, not a tree to be seen, nor a shrub larger
+than the wild sage which abounds in all this region of country and will
+answer for cooking when nothing else can be found. Some anxiety is
+felt on account of the absence of Elder Woodruff and John Brown. They
+started ahead this morning with instructions to go on about fifteen
+miles and if they found a good place to camp, to stay. They have not
+been seen or heard of since. It is supposed they have fallen in with
+some of the companies either forward or back and have concluded to
+tarry with them over night.
+
+Monday, June 21
+
+Morning very fine and warm. From this place we can see a huge pile
+of rocks to the southwest a few miles. We have supposed this to be
+the rock of Independence. After breakfast I went to view it and found
+that it was a vast pile of rocks extending from south to north about
+five hundred feet and in width, one hundred feet. The rocks are large
+and seem piled on one another with the edges up. There is no earth
+on the ridge but a little drift sand in which there are currant and
+rose bushes growing. I saw a large mouse on the top which had a long
+bushy tail like a squirrel. It sat up and acted in every respect like
+a squirrel, but in size and color resembled a mouse. At 8:35 the camp
+proceeded onward. After traveling three and a quarter miles we arrived
+on a bed of saleratus which was a quarter of a mile across and on which
+were several lakes of salt water. This place looks swampy and smells
+bad. The beds of saleratus smell like lime, but the saleratus itself
+is said to raise bread equal to the best bought in eastern markets.
+Lorenzo Young gathered a pail full in a short time with a view to test
+its qualities. Large quantities may be gathered in a short time and
+when pulverized it looks clean and nice. We are now satisfied that the
+water we saw from the hills yesterday must have been some of these
+lakes as the Sweet Water is not yet in sight, but these being high,
+show at a long distance. The water is not very salty but brackish and
+tastes sickly. It is reported by travelers that these are poisonous,
+but it is probable that all the poison there is about them is their
+salt causing cattle to drink freely when they can get no other water,
+and the more they drink, the more thirsty they get till they burst
+themselves, which is said to be the effect of drinking the poison,
+viz., to burst. As we passed along a little farther we saw another
+large lake to the left and one to the right of the same nature, their
+banks mostly white with saleratus. At twelve o'clock we arrived on
+the banks of the Sweet Water, having traveled seven and a half miles
+over a very sandy road destitute of wood, water or grass. The distance
+from the upper ferry of the Platte river to this place is forty-nine
+miles by the roadometer. There has formerly been a ford here but lately
+emigrants have found a better ford higher up the river. At this place
+the river is probably seven or eight rods wide and over three feet deep
+at the ford, but in some places it is much deeper still. The current
+is very swift, the water a little muddy, but pleasant tasting. By
+watching it closely it is easy to see on the surface numerous small
+bright particles floating which at first sight might be supposed to be
+salt, however the water itself has not the least saline taste. On the
+banks of the river there is plenty of good grass but destitute of wood
+there being only one solitary tree to be seen and that stands beside
+this fording place. The only chance for fuel appears to be the wild
+sage and other small shrubbery occasionally growing in spots on the low
+banks. After we halted, Sister Harriet Young made some bread using the
+lake saleratus and when baked was pronounced to raise the bread and
+taste equal to the best she had ever used and it requires less of this
+than the common saleratus. A number of the brethren went back during
+the halt and filled their pails with it calculating to make use of it
+during our future journey. The day has been very hot and no wind which
+makes it unpleasant traveling. Elder Woodruff and Brown again joined
+the camp on our arrival here and reported that they had spent the night
+in one of the gentile camps which are now some miles ahead of us. There
+are many high hills or ridges of the granite rock in the neighborhood,
+especially in the east and west, all entirely destitute of vegetation
+and which present a very wild and desolate as well as romantic aspect.
+I can describe their appearance only by saying that it seems as though
+giants had in by-gone days taken them in wheelbarrows of tremendous
+size and wheeled up in large heaps, masses of heavy clay which has
+consolidated and become solid, hard rock. The rock Independence lies
+a little west of where we have halted and after dinner I went to view
+it as well as many others. It lies on the north bank of the river in
+this shape: The extreme southeast corner reaches to within about three
+rods of the river and runs in a direction northwest while the river
+at this place runs nearly a west course. It is composed of the same
+barren granite as other masses in this region and is probably 400 yards
+long, 80 yards wide and 100 yards in perpendicular height as near as
+I could guess. The ascent is difficult all around. Travelers appear
+to have ascended it mostly at the southeast corner where there are
+some hundreds of names of persons who have visited it, both male and
+female, painted on the projecting surfaces with black, red, and some
+with yellow paint. About half way up there is a cavern about twelve
+feet long and three feet wide at the bottom but at the top about ten
+feet wide and eight feet high, formed by a very large heavy mass of
+rock having sometime fallen over an opening or cavity leaving scarcely
+room enough for a man to enter. However there are three places by which
+it may be entered though not without difficulty. There are a number
+of names inside the cavern put on with black paint, doubtless being
+the names of persons who have visited it. On the top of the rock the
+surface is a little rounding something like a large mound with large
+masses of loose rock lying scattered around. Proceeding forward you
+descend, when nearly half way of the length, to a considerably lower
+surface which continues some distance and then rises high again to
+about the same height as the first section. On the top there are a
+number of small pools of water, no doubt collected during heavy rains
+and having no chance to run off, they stand until evaporated into the
+atmosphere. Some of the pools are eight inches deep and taste like rain
+water. It is more difficult descending from the rock than to ascend
+it on account of its being hard and slippery and nothing to hang on,
+and a visitor has to be careful or he will arrive on the ground with
+bruised limbs. At three o'clock p.m. they started on and on arriving
+at the rock found it to be one and a quarter miles from noon halt. We
+put up a guide board opposite the rock with this inscription on it.
+"To Fort John 175¼ miles. Pioneers, June 21, 1847. W. R." The
+letters W. R. are branded on all the guide boards at the doctor's
+request so as to have a mark that the Saints might know; and his
+brand is generally known by the Saints. After traveling on the banks
+of the river one mile beyond the rock, we forded over and found it
+nearly three feet deep in the channel. All the wagons got over without
+difficulty or much loss of time. We then continued a southwest course
+four and a half miles farther and arrived opposite Devil's Gate which
+lies a little to the west of the road; and a quarter of a mile beyond
+this, the road passes between two high ridges of granite, leaving a
+surface of about two rods of level ground on each side the road. The
+road then bends to the west and a quarter of a mile farther, passes
+over a small creek two feet wide but bad crossing on account of its
+being deep and muddy, requiring caution in the teamsters to prevent
+accident. President Young, Kimball and others went to view the north
+side of Devil's Gate and returning reported that the devils would not
+let them pass, or meaning that it was impossible to go through the
+gateway so called. We proceeded on a little farther and at 6:35 formed
+our encampment on the bank of the river having traveled this afternoon
+seven and three quarters miles, and during the day fifteen and a
+quarter. The feed here is good and plentiful and a little cedar can
+be obtained at the foot of one of the rocky ridges about a quarter of
+a mile back. After we had camped I went back to view the Devil's Gate
+where the river runs between two high rocky ridges for the distance of
+about 200 yards. The rock on the east side is perpendicular and was
+found by a barometrical measurements by Elder Pratt to be 399 feet 4¼
+inches high. The one on the west side is about the same height but
+not perpendicular bending a little from the river gradually to the
+top. The river has a channel of about three rods in width through this
+pass which increases its swiftness and, dashing furiously against the
+huge fragments of rock which have fallen from the mountain, makes
+a roar which can be heard plainly in the camp. One of the brethren
+fired off his rifle at the foot of the rock and the report resembled
+much like that of a cannon. Others tumbled fragments of rocks from a
+projection at the entrance about 150 feet high, which made a very loud
+rumbling sound caused by the echoes. The scenery is one of romantic
+grandeur and it seems wonderful how the river could ever find a channel
+through such a mass of heavy, solid rock. The view from this evening's
+encampment over the surrounding country is sublime. To the east, south,
+and southwest the Sweet Water mountains tower high and appear spotted
+with snow; and about twenty to thirty miles distance from the river to
+the west are also hills and ridges interspersed as far as the eye can
+reach, except the land immediately on the river which appears even for
+many miles. These high, barren, rocky ridges on the north side of the
+river seem to continue for many miles.
+
+Tuesday, June 22
+
+Morning fine. At 7:20 we continued our journey and about 200 yards
+from where we camped, crossed a very crooked creek about six feet wide
+descending from the southwest. After traveling three miles over heavy,
+sandy roads, we crossed another creek about six feet wide; and three
+and three quarters miles farther, a creek two feet wide. Somewhere near
+this last creek, Brother Lorenzo Young broke one of his axle trees
+which detained him some time. One of the Missourian companies came up
+soon after the accident and took his load into one of their wagons and
+by splicing a piece of wood on his axle tree, he was enabled to follow
+our camp. At 11:55 we halted on the banks of the river, having traveled
+ten miles over a very sandy, barren land, there being no grass only
+on the creeks and river banks. During the halt, Elder Pratt took an
+observation and found the latitude of this place 42° 28' 25". President
+Young went back to meet Lorenzo but soon found he was coming on with
+the Missourian company who were approaching near us. He immediately
+turned about and on arriving back gave orders to get up the teams and
+proceed so as to keep ahead of the other company who say they have
+traveled from Independence Rock without halting. However, they passed
+before we could start and got ahead of us. The day has been hot and
+a little wind. At 2:25 we continued, finding the road again leaving
+the river. At half a mile, we passed a very large lake on our left
+which covers an area of over 80 acres of land. Its banks are mostly
+white with the alkali or saleratus. After passing this lake the road
+runs south, passing between high sandy bluffs after which it again
+turns around gradually towards the west and descending a steep bluff
+over very heavy, sandy land. After traveling five and three quarters
+miles crossed a creek about six feet wide and a foot deep. The bank on
+each side is very steep and sandy, making it difficult for teams to
+get up. Here Sterling Driggs had his harness broken to pieces by his
+horses springing suddenly when attempting to rise out of the creek.
+They cleared themselves from the wagon which was hauled up by a yoke
+of oxen so as not to hinder the rest from crossing. The banks of this
+creek are well lined with sage instead of grass which is very large and
+thick on the ground on account of which Elder Kimball named this Sage
+creek. After passing this creek one and three quarters miles we again
+arrived on the banks of the river and continued to travel near to it.
+At two and a quarter miles farther crossed a creek three feet wide, but
+not much to be depended on for water. At 7:50 we formed our encampment
+at the foot of a very high gravelly bluff and near the river, having
+traveled this afternoon ten and three quarters miles and during the day
+twenty and three quarters miles over mostly a very sandy road. This
+is a very good camp ground, there being plenty of grass for our teams
+which is well worth traveling a few miles extra. From this place the
+country seems fortified by hills and mountains especially on the west.
+Lewis Barney and Joseph Hancock have each killed an antelope during the
+day, but there appears to be no buffalo in the neighborhood.
+
+Wednesday, June 23
+
+Morning fine and warm. After breakfast I went to the top of the
+high bluff expecting to get a good view of the country west but
+was disappointed in consequence of the many ridges or bluffs but a
+little distance beyond us. At seven o'clock the camp moved forward
+and immediately after saw a graveyard on the left of the road with a
+board stuck up with these words written on it: "Matilda Crowley. B.
+July 16th, 1830, and D. July 7, 1846." On reflecting afterward that
+some of the numerous emigrants who had probably started with a view
+to spend the remainder of their days in the wild Oregon, had fallen
+by the way and their remains had to be left by their friends far from
+the place of destination, I felt a renewed anxiety that the Lord will
+kindly preserve the lives of all my family, that they may be permitted
+to gather to the future home of the Saints, enjoy the society of the
+people of God for many years to come, and when their days are numbered
+that their remains may be deposited at the feet of the servants of God,
+rather than be left far away in a wild country. And oh, Lord, grant
+this sincere desire of thy servant in the name of Thy Son Jesus. Amen.
+After traveling one and a half miles we crossed a very shoal stream of
+clear, cold water about five feet wide. There is but little grass here
+although a number of bitter cottonwood trees grow on the banks. There
+being no name on the map for this creek, it was named Bitter Cottonwood
+Creek to designate it in our future travel. It is probable that this
+stream is caused by the melting of the snow on the mountains and if
+so, could not be depended on for a camp ground late in the summer.
+After passing this creek, the river runs between some of the high
+rocky ridges, the road at the same time bending a little southwest to
+pass around them. After traveling five miles beyond the last mentioned
+creek, we again descended to the banks of the river where would be a
+pretty good camp ground although the grass is not so plentiful as in
+many other places on the banks of the river. We traveled till 11:05 on
+the river banks then halted for noon where the road and river separated
+a little farther and hence we would probably not find grass again for a
+number of miles. The land continues very sandy making it hard on teams;
+our course about west, the day very warm with a light south breeze.
+We traveled eight and a half miles this morning. There are some small
+cedar trees on the rocky bluffs which is the only timber seen since we
+passed the Bitter Cottonwood. Latitude of this place 42° 31' 20". At
+1:10 we continued our journey and after proceeding half a mile, found
+the river turns between the granite ridges in a northwest direction and
+seems to have but a narrow space to pass through in several places. The
+road at the same place turns south to avoid the ridges for over a mile
+and then bends to the southwest for some distance farther. The road at
+the foot of these rocky hills is extremely sandy and heavy traveling.
+On arriving at the south side of the hills, we were suddenly cheered
+with a very plain view of the Wind river chain of the Rocky Mountains
+towering high up in the air and perfectly white with snow. Some of
+the peaks appear to run up very high, but we are evidently many miles
+from them yet. After we passed this place, the road gradually bends to
+the west and northwest and at the distance of six and three quarters
+miles from our noon halt brings us to the banks of the river again. We
+continued on the banks of the river till 6:20, at which time we formed
+our encampment, having traveled this afternoon eight and a half miles
+and during the day seventeen. As usual there is plenty of grass on the
+river banks but no wood. There are some dry buffalo chips and wild sage
+which answer tolerably well for cooking. The land over which we have
+traveled, except in the several places above mentioned, is perfectly
+barren except for wild sage which abounds, but there is scarcely a
+spear of grass to be seen. These granite ridges continue from the Rock
+Independence to this place, mostly on the north side the river. Here
+they recede from the river a few miles and then cease. There are two of
+the Missourian companies camped, one about a half a mile and the other
+a mile west of us and we are given to understand we have got a long
+distance to travel without grass or water. It is stated that a man from
+one of these companies left his company a few days ago and went ahead
+to examine the route, etc. On their arrival here they found him in one
+of these rocky hills hid up for fear of the Indians. He reports that he
+has been to the pass and that we shall find water about fourteen miles
+from here. He has come from the pass in two nights and hid up in the
+day time to avoid Indians, but has seen none. He says it is not over
+twenty-eight miles to the pass from here. After we camped, Burr Frost
+set up his forge and set some wagon tires and repaired the wheels of
+the wagons for one of the Missourians. There are no buffalo to be seen
+yet and not much game of any kind. Lewis Barney killed two antelope
+and the brethren mostly killed one or two every day. The Sweet Water
+mountains do not appear very high but have considerable snow lying on
+them in some places. They appear to run nearly parallel with the river
+to about from twenty to thirty miles distance to the south.
+
+Thursday, June 24
+
+Morning fine but cool. It was calculated to make an early start so as
+to pass the two companies of the Missourians and get the best chance
+for feed at night, but they started out a half an hour before we were
+ready. We proceeded onward at 6:15 and a little over a mile from where
+we camped, found the river again bending northwest while the road
+continues near a west course and soon rises a high bluff. On the top of
+this, we appear to have a level road for many miles. After traveling
+five miles from morning, we arrived at a level strip of land on the
+north side of the road where there is plenty of grass and apparently
+swampy and soft. It extends in the same direction with the road a
+mile and a half and appears to terminate where the road crosses the
+lower land although the grass and hollow continue southward for some
+distance. Just above where the road crosses at the west end there is
+some water standing around a small, circular, swampy spot of land
+probably about a half an acre. Near the edge at the northwest corner is
+a hole dug which is called the Ice Spring. The water in the hole smells
+strong of sulphur or alkali and is not pleasant tasting, but under the
+water which is over a foot deep there is as clear ice as I ever saw and
+good tasting. Some of the brethren had broken some pieces off which
+floated and I ate some of it which tasted sweet and pleasant. The ice
+is said to be four inches thick. The water is very cold although the
+weather is warm. A quarter of a mile farther than the spring, there is
+a small lake or spring of alkali on the left of the road and a little
+farther, still another lake. The latter is more pleasant tasting than
+the other, not being so strong of sulphur. It tastes very much like
+lye water mixed with salt. The ground around these lakes is white with
+alkali or saleratus and a number of the brethren picked up their pails
+full but we have learned that it ought to be used with care, it being
+so much stronger than common saleratus, if the same quantity is used
+it makes the bread quite green. After traveling from the ice spring
+ten and a quarter miles over a very uneven road, we descended a very
+steep bluff close in the rear of one of the Missourian companies. The
+other had halted a few miles ahead and we passed by them. While winding
+around and descending from this bluff we came in sight of the river
+again and about the same time. Elder Kimball picked up an Indian arrow
+point made of flint stone and nearly perfect. It was almost as white
+as alabaster. At 3:30 we tarried a little south from the road and
+formed our encampment in a line so as to enclose a bend in the river,
+having traveled seventeen and three quarters miles without halting on
+account of there being no water fit for cattle to drink. The feed here
+is very good and plenty of willow bushes for fuel. The river is about
+three rods wide and clearer and very cool. The last five or six miles
+of the road were not so sandy but hard and good traveling. One of the
+Missourian companies have gone on, but the other camped a piece down
+the river at the fording place. A while before dark when the brethren
+were fetching up their teams, John Holman, while bringing up President
+Young's best horse, having his loaded rifle in his hand, the horse
+undertook to run back past him and to prevent his running back, he
+jammed his gun at him. The cock caught in his clothes, the gun went off
+lodging the ball in the animal's body. It entered a little forward of
+the nigh hind leg on the under side of his belly making quite a large
+hole. The horse walked to camp but it is the opinion of many he cannot
+survive long. He appears to be in great pain, the sweat falling from
+his forehead in large drops. President Young is evidently filled with
+deep sorrow on account of this accident but attaches no blame to John
+who seems grieved very much. The brethren generally feel sorrowful,
+this being the second horse shot by accident on this mission.
+
+Friday, June 25
+
+President Young's horse is dead. The morning is fine but very cool. At
+twenty minutes to seven o'clock, we pursued our journey fording the
+river a quarter of a mile below where AVC left the road last night.
+We found it still nearly three feet deep and the current very swift.
+After proceeding a half a mile beyond the ford, we crossed a stream
+about a rod wide which appears to come from the northeast and empties
+into the river a little farther up. Half a mile beyond this stream, we
+turned from the river to the northwest and began to ascend a very high
+bluff which we found pretty steep and over a mile and a half to the
+top. The road then gradually bends around towards the river and begins
+to descend over hill and hollow and at four and a quarter miles from
+where we camped, strikes the river again and continues a quarter of a
+mile on its banks. Here would be a pretty good place to camp, there
+being sufficient grass for a large company. After traveling a quarter
+of a mile near the river we encountered another high sandy ridge, the
+road again winding to the north to cross it. The descent on the west
+side is very steep and unpleasant. We strike the river again after
+traveling one and a quarter miles from where we last left it, but it
+is the opinion of many that by fording the river twice at the foot of
+the ridge we could save a mile and they think it can be forded. Colonel
+Rockwood has paid particular attention to the place and reports that
+one hour's labor for 100 men would dig down the foot of the ridge so as
+to make it good passing and save rising the ridge and a mile's travel
+without fording the river. After leaving the west foot of this ridge,
+we crossed a stream about twenty-five feet wide and again a quarter of
+a mile farther the same, only about six feet wide. On examining it, we
+found it to be a branch of the river running around a piece of land
+about a quarter of a mile across and forming a semi-circular island.
+The last crossing was soft on both banks. The high sandy bluffs on
+each side the river seem to approach much nearer to each other and
+leave only a small strip of low land on each bank. At 11:20 passed
+a creek two feet wide and halted for noon having traveled eight and
+three quarters miles, the wind blowing very strong from the northwest
+and making it cold and unpleasant traveling and filling the wagons
+with dust. The latitude at this halt by Elder Pratt's observation
+is 42° 28' 36". At 1:20 we proceeded again, our road running on the
+river banks two miles then turning to the northwest and ascending a
+succession of hills one after another for three miles farther, winding
+around and over hill and valley in some places over a good hard road,
+and in other places over rocks and broken fragments of rock, making it
+severe on wagons and requiring great care in teamsters. About a half
+mile north of the road at the top of this ridge there is a heavy bank
+of snow which some of the brethren went to visit and amused themselves
+by snowballing each other. Brother Carrington says there is every
+appearance of a rich lead mine in the same place, he having examined
+the place minutely. The brethren brought some snow to the wagons and we
+ate some of it which tasted refreshing in the heat of the day. After
+arriving on the top of these ridges we began to descend gradually over
+rolling land, but the descent is not nearly equal to the ascent. At
+the distance of seven and a quarter miles from noon halt, we crossed
+a narrow wet swamp quite difficult for teams to get the loads over
+without help and one and a quarter miles beyond the swamp a creek a
+foot wide and a quarter of a mile farther still another one two feet
+wide. These all unite in one about 200 yards to the left below the
+middle creek and then appear to pass under a snow bank which at present
+forms a kind of bridge over the creek. At 6:45 we formed our encampment
+on the north banks of a creek about five feet wide, having traveled
+this afternoon eleven and a half miles and during the day twenty and a
+quarter. This creek is very clear and cold. Its banks are well lined
+with willows and about a mile below the camp there is a grove of white
+poplar in which house logs may be obtained sixteen feet long and a foot
+through. There are several banks of snow a little to the north and some
+of the brethren have found ice four or five inches thick and brought
+a quantity of it to camp. On the banks of the creek there are some
+groves of gooseberry bushes with small green berries on them. There are
+also some strawberry roots and flowers and a little white clover has
+been found, but there is yet no appearance of the great abundance of
+such things as travelers have represented. The land appears somewhat
+more likely to yield the nearer we approach to the mountains, but all
+calculations for farming in this region would be likely to fail on
+account of the scarcity of timber. It would only be natural to suppose
+that the nights are very cold here, while so much snow lies around. It
+requires considerable clothing to keep comfortable, but in the middle
+of the day it is equally hot. Some of the brethren have traveled up the
+banks of the Sweet Water river and represent it as tumbling and foaming
+over rocks and descending very rapidly on account of the great rise of
+the ground from noon halt to this place. They say it runs within a mile
+and a half south of this but it is probable it is only a branch of it
+as we are evidently not near the main branch yet. There is one of the
+gentile companies camped about a mile below, making the third company
+we have passed lately and it is the intention to keep ahead of them and
+have the advantage of the good feed and camping grounds.
+
+Saturday, June 26
+
+Morning very cold and considerable ice froze in the water pails during
+the night. At 7:40 we crossed the creek and pursued our journey. At one
+mile we passed a small creek which rises from springs a little south
+of the road where there is a small grove of small timber. Elder Pratt
+has gone ahead with the barometer to try to find the culminating point
+or highest dividing ridge of the South Pass as we are evidently at the
+east foot of the pass. Fremont represents that he did not discover the
+highest point on account of the ascent being so gradual that they were
+beyond it before they were aware of it, although in company with a man
+who has traveled it back and forth for seventeen years. At two and
+three-quarters miles beyond the last small creek, we crossed the branch
+of the Sweet Water about two rods wide and two feet deep, the water
+clear and cold. This would be a good camp ground were it not so cold,
+as it must be from the fact that large deep banks of snow are now lying
+on its banks both above and below the road. Where the snow doesn't lie,
+there is good grass and plenty of willow groves for fuel. Two and a
+quarter miles beyond this branch we crossed another stream about eight
+feet wide on an average, though where the ford is, it is nearly three
+rods wide and two feet deep. This water is also very clear and the
+banks well lined with willows and grass. It is considered a superior
+camping ground to the one back. There seem to be a great many antelope
+at the foot of the mountains which is about all the game to be seen.
+After crossing the last stream, we climb another high range of hills
+over a good road, gently rolling. From the top of this is a pleasant
+view of the surrounding country but all entirely destitute of timber
+except on and at the base of the mountains many miles distance from the
+road. We have also a good view of Table Rock to the southwest as well
+as the high, broken, white capped chain of the Wind River mountains on
+the north. At 12:40 we halted on the main branch of the Sweet Water
+having traveled eleven miles. The river here is about three rods wide,
+three feet deep and current very swift. The water is clear and cold as
+the snow which lies on its banks in places six or eight feet deep. This
+is a lovely place for a camp ground, there being abundance of good,
+rich grass about eight inches high and plenty of willows for fuel.
+Some of the boys and girls amused themselves by snowballing each other
+on one of the large snow banks a few rods below the camp. Soon after
+we halted Eric Glines came up, having left the brethren at the upper
+ferry on the Platte River on Wednesday morning. He camped one night
+alone, the other nights he camped with Missourians. He does not assign
+any reason why he followed us, but evidently considering to repent and
+obey council than to continue obstinate and rebellious. The weather is
+now warm and pleasant and but little wind. At 2:20 we moved onward,
+ascending again on pretty high land where we found good traveling. The
+latitude at our noon halt was 42° 22' 42". After traveling seven miles
+this afternoon we arrived on a level spot of lower land and some grass,
+and inasmuch as we have found no stream as laid down on Fremont's map
+since leaving the Sweet Water, neither is there much appearance of any
+for some miles farther, the wagons halted while President Young and
+some others went over the ridge to the north to look for a camp ground
+as some of the brethren said the Sweet Water was close by. President
+Young soon sent a message for the camp to proceed, leaving the road
+and taking a northwest course. At 6:45 we formed our encampment on the
+banks of the Sweet Water, at the distance of a little over a quarter
+of a mile from the road, having traveled this afternoon seven and a
+quarter miles, and during the day eighteen and a quarter. This is a
+good place to camp, there being plenty of grass and willows. There
+are many small pebbles of hard flint rock on the flat land a little
+back and some almost as clear as glass. Elders Kimball, Pratt and
+some others are some miles ahead and not having returned at dark, a
+number of the brethren were sent to meet them. They soon returned in
+company with Elder Kimball who reported that he had been on as much as
+six miles to where the head waters of the Atlantic divide from those
+of the Pacific--that Elder Pratt was camped there with a small
+party of men direct from Oregon and bound for the U. S. It is now
+a certainty that we are yet two miles short of the dividing ridge of
+the South Pass by the road. This ridge divides the headwaters of the
+Atlantic from those of the Pacific and although not the highest land
+we have traveled over, it may with propriety be said to be the summit
+of the South Pass. The Wind River mountains appear very high from this
+place but on the south there is very little appearance of mountains,
+Table Rock itself appearing but a little elevated.
+
+Sunday, June 27
+
+Morning fine but cold. The ox teams started at five minutes to eight
+and the remainder shortly after. We soon met eight of the Oregon men
+on their way back having over twenty horses and mules with them mostly
+laden with packs of robes, skins, etc. Several of the brethren sent
+letters back by them. At two and three-quarters miles, arrived at the
+dividing ridge where Elder Pratt took a barometrical observation and
+found the altitude 7,085 feet above the level of the sea. This spot
+is 278½ miles from Fort John and is supposed to divide the Oregon
+and Indian Territory by a line running north and south. At two miles
+farther we arrived at where Elder Pratt camped last night on the head
+waters of the Green River and although the stream is small, we have
+the satisfaction of seeing the current run west instead of east. The
+face of the country west looks level except far in the distance where
+a range of mountains peers up, their surface white with snow. There
+is good grass here but no timber nor in fact any in sight except on
+the mountains. Since leaving the pass we have descended considerably,
+winding around and between high bluffs or hills, but the road is good.
+One of the Oregon men is returning with us today and then intends to
+wait for the next companies, etc., and act as a pilot for them. His
+name is Harris and he appears to be extensively known in Oregon and
+the subject of much dispute on account of his having found out a new
+route to Oregon much south of the old one. He appears to be a man of
+intelligence and well acquainted with the western country. He presented
+a file of the Oregon papers commencing with February 11, 1847, and five
+following numbers for our perusal during the day. He also presented
+a number of the California Star published at Yerba Buena by Samuel
+Brannan and edited by E. P. Jones. I had the privilege of perusing
+several of these papers during the day but found little interesting
+news. Mr. Harris says he is well acquainted with the Bear River valley
+and the region around the salt lake. From his description, which is
+very discouraging, we have little chance to hope for even a moderately
+good country anywhere in those regions. He speaks of the whole region
+as being sandy and destitute of timber and vegetation except the wild
+sage. He gives the most favorable account of a small region under the
+Bear River mountains called the Cache Valley where they have practiced
+caching their robes, etc., to hide them from the Indians. He represents
+this as being a fine place to winter cattle. After halting some time
+we proceeded onward and crossed the stream which is about three feet
+wide, then halted on its banks at twelve o'clock, having traveled six
+and a quarter miles, the day warm. The latitude at this halt was 42°
+18' 58". At 2:25 we started again and proceeded over gently rolling
+land and good hard road till 6:40 when we formed our encampment on the
+west banks of the Dry Sandy, having traveled this afternoon nine miles
+and during the day fifteen and a quarter. The country west for many
+miles appears destitute of timber and the view is very extensive. There
+is very little grass to be seen anywhere and not much near this creek.
+There is but little water in the creek at first sight, but by digging
+and tramping on the quick sand, sufficient can easily be obtained to
+supply a large company. Elder Kimball has been on the road nearly two
+miles farther but discovered no chance for a camping ground better
+than this. Mr. Harris has described a valley forty miles above the
+mouth of the Bear River, and thirty miles below the Bear Springs which
+might answer our purpose pretty well if the report is true. It is about
+thirty miles long and fifteen miles wide and tolerably well timbered.
+We generally feel that we shall know best by going ourselves for the
+reports of travelers are so contradictory it is impossible to know
+which is the truth without going to prove it. It is three years today
+since our brethren Joseph and Hyrum were taken from us and it was the
+general feeling to spend the day in fasting and prayer but the gentile
+companies being close in our rear and feed scarce, it was considered
+necessary to keep ahead of them for the benefit of our teams, but many
+minds have reverted back to the scenes at Carthage jail, and it is a
+gratification that we have so far prospered in our endeavors to get
+from under the grasp of our enemies.
+
+Monday, June 28
+
+Morning fine but cool. Many of the brethren are trading with Mr. Harris
+for pants, jackets, shirts, etc., made of buckskins and also the skins
+themselves. He sells them high. The skins at $1.50 and $2.00; a pair
+of pants $3.00, etc. He will take rifles, powder, lead, caps or calico
+and domestic shirts in exchange but puts his own price on both sides
+and it is difficult to obtain even a fair trade. At half past seven we
+proceeded on our journey, Mr. Harris waiting for the other companies.
+After traveling six miles the road forks, one continuing a west course,
+the other taking a southwest course. We took the left hand road which
+leads to California. This junction of the road is 297½ miles from Fort
+John. We then continued to travel over a desert land yielding nothing
+but wild sage and occasionally a grass root and weeds until 1:30 when
+we arrived and halted for noon on the banks of the Little Sandy,
+having traveled thirteen and a half miles without signs of wood, water
+or feed for our teams. This stream is about twenty feet wide on an
+average but at the fording place over three rods, two and a half feet
+deep, muddy water and swift current. There is not much grass and no
+timber except willow bushes. There is a variety of roots bearing very
+handsome colored flowers. One of the brethren has picked up a large
+piece of petrified wood. It resembles the outside layer of a cottonwood
+tree next to the bark, and appears to have rotted and broken off short
+then petrified and turned to a solid, heavy, hard, flint stone, but
+retaining its original shape and appearance. At 4:15 we commenced
+fording the river and found it in no way difficult until a number of
+the wagons had gotten over and the banks began to be soft and muddy.
+Several of the latter teams required help. At 4:45 all were safely
+over with no loss except two tar buckets considered to be of no worth.
+We then proceeded on, expecting to go about eight miles farther, but
+after traveling a little over a mile we were met by Elder G. A.
+Smith who introduced us to Mr. Bridger of Bridger's Fort on his way to
+Fort John in company with two of his men. Mr. Bridger being informed
+that we had designed to call at his place to make some inquiries
+about the country, etc., he said if we would turn off the road here
+and camp, he would stay with us till morning. A camping place being
+selected we turned off from the road about a quarter of a mile and
+formed our encampment near the Sandy at six o'clock, having traveled
+this afternoon one and three-quarters miles, exclusive of allowance
+for leaving the road, and during the day fifteen and a quarter miles.
+We have pretty good feed here, enough to fill the teams well. A while
+after we camped, the twelve and several others went to Mr. Bridger to
+make some inquiries concerning our future route, the country, etc. It
+was impossible to form a correct idea of either from the very imperfect
+and irregular way he gave his descriptions, but the general items are
+in substance as follows:
+
+We will find better grass as we proceed farther on. His business is to
+Fort Laramie. His traders have gone there with robes, skins, etc., to
+fill a contract, but having started later than they intended the men at
+Laramie have taken advantage of the delay and he is going to see to the
+business himself. There is no blacksmith shop at his fort at present.
+There was one but it was destroyed. There have been nearly a hundred
+wagons gone on the Hastings route through Weber's Fork. They cross the
+Blacks Fork and go a little south of west from his place and pass below
+the mountains which cross Green river. The Green river runs over an
+extent of country of 400 miles. It is impossible for wagons to follow
+down Green river, neither can it be followed with boats. Some have gone
+down with canoes, but had great difficulty getting back on account of
+the rapid current and rough channel. Cannot pass the mountains close
+to the river even with horses. For some distance beyond this chain of
+mountains, the country is level and beyond that it is hard black rock
+which looks as if it were glazed when the sun shines on it, and so
+hard and sharp it will cut a horse's feet to pieces. When we get below
+the mountains, the Green River falls into a level country for some
+distance after which it winds through a mountainous country perfectly
+barren to the Gulf of California. From Bridger's fort to the salt lake,
+Hastings said was about one hundred miles. He has been through fifty
+times but can form no correct idea of the distance. Mr. Hastings' route
+leaves the Oregon route at his place. We can pass the mountains farther
+south, but in some places we would meet with heavy bodies of timber
+and would have to cut our way through. In the Bear River valley there
+is oak timber, sugar trees, cottonwood, pine and maple. There is not
+an abundance of sugar maple but plenty of as splendid pine as he ever
+saw. There is no timber on the Utah Lake only on the streams which
+empty into it. In the outlet of the Utah Lake which runs into the salt
+lake there is an abundance of blue grass and red and white clover. The
+outlet of the Utah Lake does not form a large river, neither a rapid
+current but the water is muddy and low banks. Some of his men have been
+around the salt lake in canoes. They went out hunting and had their
+horses stolen by the Indians. They then went around the lake in canoes
+hunting beaver and were three months going around it. They said it
+was 550 miles around it. The Utah tribe of Indians inhabit the region
+around the Utah Lake and are a bad people. If they catch a man alone
+they are sure to rob and abuse him if they don't kill him, but parties
+of men are in no danger. They are mostly armed with guns. There was
+a man opened a farm in the Bear River valley. The soil is good and
+likely to produce corn were it not for the excessive cold nights which
+he thinks would prevent the growth of corn. There is a good country
+south of the Utah Lake or southeast of the great basin. There are three
+large rivers which enter into the Sevier Lake unknown to travelers.
+There is also a splendid range of country on the north side of the
+California mountains calculated to produce every kind of grain and
+fruit and there are several places where a man might pass from it over
+the mountains to the California settlements in one day. There is a vast
+abundance of timber and plenty of coal. There is also plenty of coal
+in this region near the mountains. North of the California mountains
+there is walnut, oak, ash, hickory, and various kinds of good timber on
+and in the neighborhood of the mountains and streams southeast of the
+great basin. There can be a wagon road made through to it and no lack
+of water. The great desert extends from the salt lake to the Gulf of
+California which is perfectly barren. He supposes it to have been an
+arm of the sea. The three rivers before mentioned are southwest of the
+desert. There is a tribe of Indians in that country who are unknown to
+either travelers or geographers. They make farms and raise abundance
+of grain of various kinds. He can buy any quantity of the very best of
+wheat there. This country lies southeast of the salt lake. There is one
+mountain in that region and the country adjoining in which he considers
+if ever there was a promised land, that must be it. There is a kind of
+cedar grows on it which bears fruit something like juniper berries of
+a yellow color about the size of an ordinary plum. The Indians grind
+the fruit and it makes the best kind of meal. He could easily gather a
+hundred bushels off one tree. He has lived on this fruit and used to
+pick his hat full in a very short time. There are a great many little
+streams head in this mountain and many good springs. It is about twenty
+days' travel with horses from the salt lake, but the country to it is
+bad to get through and over a great part of it, nothing for animals to
+subsist on. He supposes there might be access to it from Texas. On one
+of the rivers there is a splendid copper mine, a whole mountain of it.
+It also abounds in gold, silver and has a good quick silver mine. There
+is iron, coal, etc. The land is good; the soil rich. All the valleys
+abound with persimmons and grapes which will make the best kind of
+wines. He never saw any grapes on the Utah Lake, but there are plenty
+of cherries and berries of several kinds. He thinks the Utah Lake is
+the best country in the vicinity of the Salt Lake and the country is
+still better the farther south we go until we meet the desert which
+is upwards of 200 miles south from the Utah Lake. There is plenty of
+timber on all the streams and mountains and abundance of fish in the
+streams. There is timber all around the Utah Lake and plenty of good
+grass; not much of the wild sage only in small patches. Wild flax
+grows in most of the valleys and they are the richest lands. He passed
+through that country a year ago last summer in the month of July, and
+they generally had one or two showers every day, sometimes a very
+heavy thunder shower but not accompanied by strong wind. By following
+under the mountain south of the Utah Lake we find another river which
+enters into another lake about fifty miles south of the Utah Lake. We
+shall find plenty of water from here to Bridger's Fort except after
+we cross Green River and travel five miles beyond it where we shall
+have to travel eighteen or twenty miles without water, but there is
+plenty of grass. After crossing Green River we follow down it four or
+five miles to the old station then cross over to a stream which heads
+in the mountains west. The station is more than half way from here to
+his place. We shall have no streams to ferry between here and the fort
+except Green River. The Indians south of the Utah Lake and this side
+the desert raise corn, wheat and other kinds of grain and produce in
+abundance. The Utah's abound more on the west of the mountains near the
+salt lake than on the east side, ten to one, but we have no need to
+fear them for we can drive the whole of them in twenty-four hours but
+he would not kill them, he would make slaves of them. The Indians south
+of the Utah Lake raise as good corn, wheat, and pumpkins as were ever
+raised in old Kentucky. He knows of a lead mine between the mountains
+and Laramie on a timbered creek near the Horseshoe creek. He has found
+lead there and thinks there is considerable silver in it. It can be
+found in a cave on the side of the mountain not far from the road.
+
+Such was the information we obtained from Mr. Bridger, but we shall
+know more about things and have a better understanding when we have
+seen the country ourselves. Supper had been provided for Mr. Bridger
+and his men and the latter having eaten, the council dismissed, Mr.
+Bridger going with President Young to supper, the remainder retiring to
+their wagons conversing over the subject touched upon. The evening was
+very fine but mosquitoes numerous.
+
+Tuesday, June 29
+
+Morning very pleasant till the sun got up a little, then it was very
+hot. We started at 7:40 and traveled over very good roads through
+barren land till 10:45 then halted for noon on the banks of the Big
+Sandy, having traveled six and three-quarters miles. The second
+division have passed over the river but the first division halted on
+the north side. This stream appears to be about seven rods wide at this
+place and about two feet deep in the channel, but it is not generally
+so wide, but deeper. There is some timber on its banks and plenty
+of grass in places for teams. At 1:30 we again proceeded, President
+Young and some others going ahead in the cutter wagon to look out a
+camp ground for the night. Our course still lies about southwest, the
+road generally good over gently rolling, hard, sandy land and in some
+places the surface is covered with loose fragments of hard rock. After
+traveling nine and a half miles President Young rode up and reported
+that we would have to go at least six miles farther before we could
+get feed. It was then a quarter after six, but the teamsters spurred
+up in order to get through. Most of the road after this for four miles
+was very hilly and uneven and in places the loose fragments of rocks
+made it very bad traveling, but many were thrown from the road by the
+spare men. The weather grew cooler towards evening, some large clouds
+rising in the west which favored the teams considerably. At 9:05 we
+found ourselves on the lowlands on the banks of the river again and
+formed our encampment, having traveled since noon seventeen miles and
+during the day twenty-three and three-quarters, which is the greatest
+day's journey we have made since leaving Winter Quarters. The camp was
+formed by moonlight. There seems to be plenty of feed for teams but
+no wood for fuel. Many of the brethren have gone down sick within the
+past three days and a number more this evening. They generally begin
+with headache, succeeded by violent fever, and some go delirious for
+a while. Brother Fowler was seized this afternoon and this evening is
+raving. It is supposed by some that this sickness is caused by the use
+of the mineral saleratus or alkali picked up on the lakes and surface
+of the land and it is considered poisonous. Some consider also that we
+inhale the effluvium arising from it, which has the like effect. It
+appears to be an article which ought to be used with great care if used
+at all. There has been no case considered dangerous yet, nor any of
+long duration.
+
+Wednesday, June 30
+
+Morning hot. We resumed our journey at 8:15, several others of the
+brethren being reported sick. President Young, Kimball and others rode
+ahead again. We found the roads very good but sandy and filling the
+wagons with dust. At 11:30 we arrived on the banks of Green River,
+having traveled eight miles and formed our encampment in a line under
+the shade of the cottonwood timber. This river is about sixteen to
+eighteen rods wide and altogether too deep to be forded. Its banks
+are well lined with cottonwood but none large enough to make a canoe.
+There are also many patches of wild apple trees, and rose bushes
+abound bearing pretty roses. This river is 338½ miles from Fort John
+or Laramie. There is a narrow strip of land which might answer for
+farming on each bank of the river. The grass grows good and plentiful
+but still not so much as has been represented. After dinner the
+brethren commenced making two rafts, one for each division, and a while
+afterwards Elder Samuel Brannan arrived, having come from the Pacific
+to meet us, obtain council, etc. He is accompanied by Smith of the
+firm of Jackson Heaton & Bonney, bogus snakers of Nauvoo. There
+is another young man in company with them. They have come by way of
+Fort Hall and brought with them several files of the California Star.
+They had eleven deaths on board their ship during their voyage over,
+the others I understand are doing well, raising grain, etc. Towards
+evening a storm blew up from the west and although we had no rain we
+had tremendous wind. The first division finished their raft before
+dark. There is a slough a little down the river where some of the
+brethren have caught some very nice fish, but the mosquitoes are so
+very troublesome it is difficult abiding out of doors.
+
+
+
+July 1847
+
+Thursday, July 1
+
+This morning found myself laboring under a severe attack of the fever,
+accompanied with violent aching in my head and limbs. The brethren
+commenced ferrying but got only fourteen wagons over on account of the
+very high wind.
+
+Friday, July 2
+
+The day was more pleasant and the ferrying continued more rapidly. I
+got over the river before noon but remained very sick. Afternoon the
+twelve had a council and decided to send three or four men back to
+serve as guides to the next company.
+
+Saturday, July 3
+
+The morning more unfavorable. The brethren got the last wagon over
+before noon, no accident having happened, and about the time they
+finished it commenced raining, accompanied by thunder and wind. It was
+concluded for some of the brethren to go on and look out a camp ground
+a few miles ahead so as to shorten the distance of the next day's
+travel. The brethren returned about noon and gave orders to harness up
+and proceed, and at 3:15 we moved forward and went on three miles, then
+formed encampment in the midst of an army of mosquitoes. These insects
+are more numerous here than I ever saw them anywhere, everything was
+covered with them, making the teams restive in the wagons. There
+is plenty of grass for teams and it is the intention to tarry here
+till Monday morning. At night President Young gave the brethren some
+instructions about trading at Fort Bridger and advised them to be wise,
+etc. Five men were selected to go back and meet the next company, viz.,
+Phineas Young, George Woodard, Aaron Farr, Eric Glines and Rodney
+Badger. They are to take the cutter wagon instead of each taking a
+horse which cannot be spared by the camp.
+
+Sunday, July 4
+
+The morning fine and warm. The five brethren have started back to meet
+the other company. President Young, Kimball and others went back with
+them to ferry them over Green River. Some of the brethren assembled
+for meeting in the circle. At 2:30 p.m. the brethren returned from the
+ferry accompanied by twelve of the Pueblo brethren from the army. They
+have got their discharge and by riding hard overtaken us. They feel
+well and on arriving in camp gave three cheers, after which President
+Young moved that we give glory to God which was done by hosannas.
+William Walker was with them but has gone back with the five brethren
+to meet his wife. The spot where we are now camped is opposite to
+the junction of the Big Sandy and Green River. On the other side the
+river there is a range of singular sandy buttes perfectly destitute
+of vegetation, and on the sides can be seen from here, two caves
+which are probably inhabited by wild bears. The view is pleasant and
+interesting. During the afternoon one of Brother Crow's oxen was found
+to be poisoned through eating some kind of a weed and was much swollen.
+I understand it was dead when they found it.
+
+Monday, July 5
+
+At eight o'clock we pursued our journey, many of the brethren still
+being sick though generally improving. After traveling three and a
+half miles on the bank of the river the road then leaves it bending
+westward. We have now a very pleasant view of the Bear River mountains
+far to the southwest, their summits capped with snow. We found the land
+somewhat rolling, destitute of grass and several very steep places of
+descent. At 4:45 we arrived on the banks of Blacks Fork and formed
+our encampment, having traveled twenty miles, the last sixteen and a
+half without sight of water. This stream is about six rods wide, very
+swift current but not deep. The bottoms on each side are very pleasant
+but not much grass for teams. There is one place in the road where we
+might have saved a crook of nearly a mile by digging down bank which
+would probably have detained us about twenty minutes, but it was not
+discovered till most of the wagons had passed over.
+
+Tuesday, July 6
+
+Morning very pleasant. We started on our journey at 7:50 and after
+traveling three and three-quarters miles, crossed Hams Fork, a rapid
+stream about three rods wide and two feet deep; and this would be a
+good place to camp, there being an abundance of high bunch grass on
+the banks. One and a half miles farther we crossed Blacks Fork which
+appears to be about eight rods wide and two and a half feet deep, but
+little grass near it. We then leave the river and wind over uneven
+road with many pitches caused by heavy rains washing the land, which
+is generally barren. After traveling eleven miles beyond the last
+stream, crossed a small creek about two feet wide but no grass. At four
+o'clock we crossed back over Blacks Fork and formed our encampment on
+its banks, having traveled eighteen and a quarter miles. At this place
+there is a fine specimen of the wild flax which grows all around. It
+is considered equal to any cultivated, bears a delicate blue flower.
+There is also an abundance of the rich bunch grass in the neighborhood
+of the river back and many wild currants. The prairies are lined with
+beautiful flowers of various colors--chiefly blue, red and yellow,
+which have a rich appearance and would serve to adorn and beautify an
+eastern flower garden.
+
+Wednesday, July 7
+
+This morning we proceeded at 7:35 and after traveling two and a half
+miles, forded Black's Fork once more. Here also is abundance of
+good grass, wild flax and handsome flowers. After traveling two and
+three-quarters miles farther, forded a stream about two rods wide and
+two feet deep, very swift current, also lined on its banks with bunch
+grass. At twelve o'clock we halted for noon on the banks of the last
+stream, having traveled nine miles over pretty rough road. The day
+very windy and filling the wagons with dust. Some of the wagons have
+gone on expecting to reach Bridger's Fort before they halt. At 1:40
+we moved forward and found the road more even, though in many places
+rendered bad by the cobble stones. After traveling seven and a half
+miles we arrived opposite to nine Indian lodges erected on the south
+of the road. Here we halted a while and found Tim Goodale here, one
+of the trappers who passed us at the Platte ferry. There are not many
+Indians here but they appear to have a great many handsome ponies. We
+then continued on and after fording four creeks on an average about a
+rod wide, we arrived at Fort Bridger which is proved by the roadometer
+to be 397 miles from Fort John. We went half a mile beyond the fort
+and formed our encampment after crossing three more creeks, having
+traveled this afternoon eight and three-quarters miles and during the
+day seventeen and three-quarters. The grass is very plentiful in this
+neighborhood and much higher than we have generally seen it. The whole
+region seems filled with rapid streams all bending their way to the
+principal fork. They doubtless originate from the melting of the snow
+on the mountains and roar down their cobbly beds till they join Black's
+Fork. Bridger's Fort is composed of two double log houses about forty
+feet long each and joined by a pen for horses about ten feet high
+constructed by placing poles upright in the ground close together,
+which is all the appearance of a fort in sight. There are several
+Indian lodges close by and a full crop of young children playing around
+the door. These Indians are said to be of the Snake tribe, the Utahs
+inhabiting beyond the mountains. The latitude of Fort Bridget is 41°
+19' 13" and its height above the level of the sea according to Elder
+Pratt's observations is 6,665 feet. It is doubtless a very cold region
+and little calculated for farming purposes. To the west is a pretty
+high mountain which appears well covered with timber. The country all
+around looks bleak and cold.
+
+Thursday, July 8
+
+Morning fine but high wind. It is concluded to stay a day here to
+set some wagon tires, etc. Many have gone to trade their rifles and
+some clothing for buckskins. H. Egan traded two rifles and got twenty
+pretty good skins for them. The day continued warm with high wind.
+Evening there was a council and some complaints listened to from George
+Mills against Andrew Gibbons. It was decided for Thomas Williams and
+S. Brannan to return from here and meet Captain Brown's company from
+Pueblo. Inasmuch as the brethren have not received their discharge nor
+their paw from the United States, Brother Brannan goes to tender his
+services as pilot to conduct a company of fifteen or twenty to San
+Francisco if they feel disposed to go there and try to get their pay.
+Williams came clothed with authority to arrest Tim Goodale or one of
+his men for stealing a horse at Pueblo, but he can get no encouragement
+from President Young to make the attempt.
+
+Friday, July 9
+
+We started at eight o'clock, the brethren who go back bidding good
+bye to the camp and proceeding on their back journey while we moved
+westward over pretty rough roads. After traveling six and a quarter
+miles, we arrived at the springs and halted a while to rest our teams.
+We then proceeded on three-quarters of a mile and began to ascend
+a long steep hill, near the top of which and eight miles from Fort
+Bridger, Elder Pratt took an observation and found the latitude 41° 16'
+11". Arriving on the top we found the table tolerably level for several
+miles then began to descend to the bottom again. The descent from this
+hill is the steepest and most difficult we have ever met with, being
+long and almost perpendicular. At three o'clock we crossed the Muddy
+Fork, a stream about twelve feet wide, and formed our encampment on the
+west bank, having traveled since the halt six and three-quarters miles
+and during the day thirteen. Here is plenty of tall bunch grass and
+a pretty good chance for our teams. The day has been windy, warm and
+dusty.
+
+Saturday, July 10
+
+Started this morning at eight o'clock, weather warm with tolerably
+high wind. After traveling three and a half miles we passed a small
+copperas spring at the foot of a mountain a little to the left of
+the road. The water is very clear but tastes very strong of copperas
+and alum and has a somewhat singular effect on the mouth. It runs a
+little distance over the red sand which abounds in this region and
+where it is saturated with water almost looks like blood at a little
+distance. After passing this spring the road winds around the foot of
+mountains gradually ascending for some distance till finally arriving
+on the summit of a high ridge. Here Elder Pratt took a barometrical
+observation and found the height to be 7,315 feet above the level of
+the sea. On arriving at the west side of the ridge two and a half miles
+from the last mentioned spring we found a very steep, rough place to
+descend and found it necessary to halt and fix the road. About half
+way down there is a place over huge rocks, leaving barely enough room
+for a wagon to get down, but by labor it was soon made passable. A
+little farther, the brethren had to dig a place considerably to make a
+pass between the mountains. President Young and Kimball labored hard
+with a number of others and in about a half an hour made a good road.
+At twenty miles from Fort Bridger, passed another spring and a little
+farther after arriving on the bottom land, the road turns nearly south
+through a beautiful low bottom filled with grass. At 1:45 we halted
+for noon, having traveled nine miles. Latitude 41° 14' 21". After
+halting an hour and a half we proceeded again and after traveling
+three and a half miles began to ascend the dividing ridge between the
+Colorado waters and the great basin. This mountain is very high and
+the ascent steep, rendering it necessary to make a crooked road to
+gain the summit. The height is 7,700 feet according to Elder Pratt's
+observations. The surface at the top is narrow. Here three bears were
+seen to run over a still higher mountain on the left. The descent was
+very steep, having to lock the wagons for half a mile. We then descend
+and travel on the bottom a few miles between high rugged mountains
+till the road seems suddenly to be shut up by a high mountain ahead.
+The road here turns suddenly to the left and goes east about 200 yards
+then winds again southwest. After ascending and descending another high
+ridge, we crossed a small creek about ten feet wide and at 7:45 formed
+our encampment on the southwest banks, having traveled this afternoon
+nine miles and during the day eighteen over the most mountainous course
+we have yet seen. After camping, Mr. Miles Goodyear came into camp. He
+is the man who is making a farm in the Bear River valley. He says it
+is yet seventy-five miles to his place, although we are now within two
+miles of Bear River. His report of the valley is more favorable than
+some we have heard but we have an idea he is anxious to have us make
+a road to his place through selfish motives. Elder Pratt has found a
+beautiful spring of clear, sweet, cold water about a hundred yards
+southwest from the camp. Water excellent.
+
+Sunday, July 11
+
+Morning fine with ice a quarter of an inch thick on the water pails.
+Walked on the mountain east with President Young and Kimball, from
+whence we had a pleasing view of the surrounding valley which is
+about ten miles wide. Abundance of timber on the mountains south
+and southwest and beyond that plenty of snow. After having prayers,
+we again descended and at the foot discovered a very strong sulphur
+spring. The surface of the water is covered with flour of sulphur and
+where it oozes from the rocks is perfectly black. The water in the
+creek shows sulphur very clearly and smells bad. During the day some of
+the brethren discovered an oil spring about a mile south. The substance
+which rises out of the ground resembles tar and is very oily. Some
+have oiled their gun stocks with it and oiled their shoes, others have
+gone to fill their tar buckets and are sanguine it will answer well to
+grease wagons. It is somewhat singular to find such a great contrast
+of substances within so short a distance. Here is pure water, sulphur,
+and oily tar within a mile of each other, and matter of curiosity all
+around for the contemplation of the curious. Porter, Brother Little
+and others have been out with Goodyear to view the route he wishes us
+to take. They represent it as being bad enough, but we are satisfied
+it leads too far out of our course to be tempted to try it. There are
+some in camp who are getting discouraged about the looks of the country
+but thinking minds are not much disappointed, and we have no doubt of
+finding a place where the Saints can live which is all we ought to
+ask or expect. It is evident the country grows better as we proceed
+west, and vegetation is more plentiful and looks richer. After dark, a
+meeting was called to decide which of the two roads we shall take from
+here. It was voted to take the right hand or northern road, but the
+private feelings of all the twelve were that the other would be better.
+But such matters are left to the choice of the camp so that none may
+have room to murmur at the twelve hereafter.
+
+Monday, July 12
+
+Morning cloudy and cool. We pursued our journey at 7:15. At one and a
+quarter miles rose a very steep, low hill, narrow but very steep on
+both sides. One half a mile farther crossed the Bear River, a very
+rapid stream about six rods wide and two feet deep, bottom full of
+large cobble stones, water clear, banks lined with willows and a little
+timber, good grass, many strawberry vines and the soil looks pretty
+good. About a half a mile beyond the ford, proceeded over another ridge
+and again descended into and traveled up a beautiful narrow bottom
+covered with grass and fertile but no timber. Four and three-quarters
+of a mile beyond Bear River, passed a small spring of good clear
+cold water. At 11:50 halted for noon in the same narrow bottom near
+a ridge of high, rough rocks to the right, having traveled nine and
+three-quarters miles. There is scarcely any wagon track to be seen,
+only a few wagons of Hasting's company having come this route; the
+balance went the other road and many of them perished in the snow; it
+being late in the season and much time was lost quarreling who would
+improve the roads, etc. There is a creek of clear water close by, deep
+but scarcely any current. President Young was taken very sick awhile
+before we halted. After resting two hours the camp moved on again,
+except President Young and Kimball's wagons, who concluded to remain
+there today on account of the President's sickness. After traveling one
+and a half miles we crossed the creek at the foot of a high mountain
+and a little farther crossed back again. A mile farther, began to
+ascend a long steep hill, narrow on the summit and steep descent. We
+then wound around between high hills till arriving again on a narrow
+rich bottom. At the foot of the hill we crossed last, there is a spring
+of very good cold water, and in fact, there are many good springs all
+along the road. At six o'clock we formed our encampment near a very
+small creek and a good spring, having traveled this afternoon six and
+three-quarters miles and during the day sixteen and a half. There is an
+abundance of grass here and the country appears to grow still richer as
+we proceed west, but very mountainous. There are many antelope on these
+mountains and the country is lovely enough but destitute of timber.
+About a quarter of a mile west from the camp is a cave in the rock
+about thirty feet long, fifteen feet wide and from four to six feet
+high. There are many martins at the entrance and on observing closely,
+can be seen myriads of small bugs. It is supposed from appearances that
+there is some property cached in the cave. Soon after we camped, we had
+a light shower accompanied by thunder. This country evidently lacks
+rain, even the grass appears parched.
+
+Tuesday, July 13
+
+Awhile before noon, Elder Kimball and Howard Egan arrived from the
+company back. A meeting was called but suddenly dispersed by a thunder
+shower. After the rain ceased, Elder Kimball proposed that a company
+start from the camp with Elder Pratt to proceed to the Weber River
+canyon and ascertain if we can pass through safely, if not, to try and
+find a pass over the mountains. He reported that President Young is a
+little better this morning, but last evening was insensible and raving.
+Colonel Rockwood is also very sick and quite deranged. A company of
+twenty-two wagons, mostly ox teams, started on soon after dinner, in
+company with Elder Pratt, and soon after, Elders Kimball and Egan
+returned to the back company. The day has been very hot and sultry, and
+mosquitoes are very troublesome.
+
+Wednesday, July 14
+
+The day has been very hot, with occasionally a light breeze. Several
+of the brethren have been out hunting, and brought in several antelope
+which appear to abound in this region. Brothers Woodruff and Barnabas
+Adams went back to the other wagons this morning. They returned at
+night and reported that President Young is considerably better, but
+Brother Rockwood remains very sick. There are one or two new cases of
+sickness in our camp, mostly with fever which is very severe on the
+first attack, generally rendering its victims delirious for some hours,
+and then leaving them in a languid, weakly condition. It appears that a
+good dose of pills or medicine is good to break the fever. The patient
+then needs some kind of stimulant to brace his nerves and guard him
+against another attack. I am satisfied that diluted spirits is good in
+this disease after breaking up the fever. At night had a light shower.
+The following is a list of the names of those who are gone on to look
+out and make a road, etc., viz.: Orson Pratt, commander of company,
+O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding, Stephen Markham, Nathaniel
+Fairbanks, Joseph Egbert, John S. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, Robert
+Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, John Crow, Walter H. Crow, Walter Crow, George
+W. Therlkill, James Chesney, Jewis B. Myers, John Brown, Shadrack
+Roundy, Hans C. Hanson, Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, David Powell, Oscar
+Crosby, Hark Lay, Joseph Mathews, Gilbert Summe, Green Flake, John
+S. Gleason, Charles Burke, Norman Taylor, A. P. Chesley, Seth
+Taft, Horace Thornton, Stephen Kelsey, James Stewart, Robert Thomas,
+C. D. Barnham, John S. Eldridge, Elijah Newman, Francis Boggs,
+Levi N. Kendall, David Grant. First division: seven wagons, fifteen
+men; second division: sixteen wagons, twenty-seven men besides Crow's
+family of women and children. Total, twenty-three wagons and forty-two
+men.
+
+Thursday, July 15
+
+Morning pleasant but cloudy. At twelve o'clock President Young, Kimball
+and all the rear wagons arrived, eight in number. The President is much
+better. Brother Rockwood is considerably better. Orders were given for
+this company to harness up, and during the time till we started onward
+at half-past one we had a very refreshing shower. After traveling two
+miles we passed another spring of good water at the foot of a high hill
+a little to the right of the road. At half-past three we formed our
+encampment at the foot of some high red bluffs, having traveled four
+and a half miles, and enjoyed two more pleasant showers. Feed here good
+and a beautiful spring of good, clear, cold water a little to the left
+of the road. The evening fine and pleasant.
+
+Friday, July 16
+
+This morning we have had two pleasant showers accompanied by pretty
+loud thunder. At 8:45, we proceeded onward, passing through a narrow
+ravine between very high mountains. After traveling one and a quarter
+miles passed a deep ravine, where most of the teams had to double to
+get up. One-half mile farther, crossed the creek and found the crossing
+place very bad. Harvey Pierce broke his wagon reach and bolster. The
+wagon had to be unloaded, but with little delay was soon repaired,
+during which time a number of the brethren fixed a new place to cross
+the creek. After passing this place, following the course of the
+creek, the mountains seem to increase in height, and come so near
+together in some places as to leave merely room enough for a crooked
+road. At half past twelve we halted to feed, having traveled six and
+three-quarters miles and are yet surrounded by high mountains. As we
+halted, O. P. Rockwell came up from Elder Pratt's company. He
+reports that it is about twenty-five or thirty miles to the canyon.
+They have found the road leading over the mountains to avoid the canyon
+and expect to be on top today at noon. The day is pleasant with a nice
+breeze. Grass plentiful and pretty high, but no timber yet, except
+small cedar on the sides of the mountains. Numerous springs of clear
+water all along the base of the mountains. During the halt two of the
+brethren went to the top of the mountain on the north of the camp. They
+looked like babes in size. At 1:40, we proceeded onward and found the
+pass between the mountains growing narrower, until it seemed strange
+that a road could ever have been made through. We crossed creek a
+number of times, and in several places found the crossing difficult.
+After proceeding a few miles, we saw patches of oak shrubbery though
+small in size. In the same place and for several miles there are many
+patches or groves of the wild currant, hop vines, alder and black
+birch. Willows are abundant and high. The currants are yet green and
+taste most like a gooseberry, thick rind and rather bitter. The hops
+are in blossom and seem likely to yield a good crop. The elder-berries,
+which are not very plentiful, are in bloom. In some places we had to
+pass close to the foot of high, perpendicular red mountains of rock
+supposed to be from six hundred to a thousand feet high. At a quarter
+to seven we formed our encampment, having traveled this afternoon nine
+and a half miles, and during the day sixteen and a quarter. We are yet
+enclosed by high mountains on each side, and this is the first good
+camping place we have seen since noon, not for lack of grass or water,
+but on account of the narrow gap between the mountains. Grass is pretty
+plentiful most of the distance and seems to grow higher the farther we
+go west. At this place the grass is about six feet high, and on the
+creek eight or ten feet high. There is one kind of grass which bears
+a head almost like wheat and grows pretty high, some of it six feet.
+There is a very singular echo in this ravine, the rattling of wagons
+resembles carpenters hammering at boards inside the highest rocks. The
+report of a rifle resembles a sharp crack of thunder and echoes from
+rock to rock for some time. The lowing of cattle and braying of mules
+seem to be answered beyond the mountains. Music, especially brass
+instruments, have a very pleasing effect and resemble a person standing
+inside the rock imitating every note. The echo, the high rocks on the
+north, high mountains on the south with the narrow ravine for a road,
+form a scenery at once romantic and more interesting than I have ever
+witnessed. Soon after we camped, I walked up the highest mountain on
+the south. The ascent is so steep that there is scarce a place to be
+found to place the foot flat and firm, and the visitor is every moment,
+if he makes the least slip or stumbles, in danger of being precipitated
+down to the bottom and once overbalanced, there is no possibility of
+stopping himself till he gets to the bottom, in which case he would
+doubtless be dashed to pieces. After resting about half a dozen times I
+arrived at the top and found the ascent equally steep all the way up.
+In many places I had to go on my hands and feet to keep from falling
+backwards. From this mountain I could see the fork of Weber River about
+a mile west of the camp; looking back I could see the road we had come
+for several miles, but in every other direction nothing but ranges of
+mountains still as much higher than the one I was on as it is above the
+creek. The scenery is truly wild and melancholy. After surveying the
+face of the country a little while, I began to descend and found the
+task much more difficult than ascending, but by using great care and
+taking time, I got down without accident a little before dark. Solomon
+Chamberlain broke his forward axle tree about two miles back. A wagon
+was unloaded and sent back to fetch him up. He is yet very sick.
+
+Saturday, July 17
+
+Arose to behold a fine pleasant morning, my health much better. This
+is my thirty-third birthday. My mind naturally reverts back to my
+family and my heart is filled with blessings on their heads more than
+my tongue is able to express. The richest blessings that ever were
+bestowed upon the head of woman or child could not be more than I
+desire for them, whatever be my lot. President Young is reported as
+having had a very sick night. A forge was set up and some repairs done
+to wagons and Brother Chamberlain's repaired also. The cattle and mules
+seem very uneasy and continue lowing and braying all the morning. I
+suppose it is in consequence of the singular echoes, they no doubt
+thinking they are answered by others over the mountains. At 9:40 the
+camp renewed the journey and one mile farther arrived at the Red fork
+of the Weber River. We also seem to have a wide space to travel through
+and now turn to the right in a western course, the ravine having run
+mostly southwest. The distance we have traveled through this narrow
+pass is twenty-three miles. Yesterday was the first day we have been
+out of sight of snow a whole day since we arrived at Fort John. We
+could not see it for the high mountains although surrounded by it. On
+arriving at this stream we see it again on the mountains to the east.
+This stream is about four rods wide, very clear water and apparently
+about three feet deep on an average. Its banks lined with cottonwood
+and birch and also dense patches of brush wood, willows, rose bushes,
+briers, etc. By stepping to the top of a small mound at the bend of
+the road, the mouth of the canyon can be seen very plainly, as also
+the mountains between which we pass to avoid it. The canyon appears
+to be about eight or ten miles west of us. I should judge not over
+that. President Young being so very sick found he could not endure
+to travel farther. Accordingly Elder Kimball and some others went
+to select a camping ground and soon returning reported a place a
+little farther. The camp moved on and formed encampment on the banks
+of the river having traveled two and a half miles, the day very hot
+and mosquitoes plentiful. Several of the brethren have caught some
+fine trout in this stream which appears to have many in it. In the
+afternoon Elders Kimball, Richards, Smith, Benson and others went onto
+a mountain to clothe and pray for President Young who continues very
+sick. On returning they rolled down many large rocks from the top of
+the mountain to witness the velocity of their descent, etc. Some would
+roll over half a mile and frequently break to pieces. John Nixon found
+and brought to camp a very singular kind of thistle which I have never
+seen before nor recollect of ever reading of the like. He found it on
+the low land near the camp and says there are many more like it. It is
+a great curiosity and worthy of description. The stem is about four
+feet long, about six inches wide and a quarter of an inch thick. It is
+formed of a double leaf or case and when broken is hollow, although
+the stem lies close together, perfectly flat. It is ornamented with
+prickles from bottom to top. These leaves are but sparsely scattered
+all along up the stem. The top is a kind of crown and bush formed by
+the same kind of prickly leaves and is about ten inches long by five
+inches broad, forming a very handsome head or crown. But the great
+curiosity of this thistle is a perfect resemblance of a snake coiled
+around the crown as though in the act of guarding it against foes.
+The head of the snake lies on the top of the crown at one end and is
+ornamented by a small bunch of flowers like common thistle flowers on
+the snake's head. At the extremity of the tail is a bunch of small
+burrs covered with prickles something resembling the rattles on a
+rattlesnake's tail. The body of the snake is formed of the same kind of
+substance as the thistle itself and has a very singular appearance. It
+seems that two of the great enemies of mankind have combined, the most
+bitter and destructive guarding the more innocent. The serpent tempted
+the woman causing her to sin, in consequence of which the earth was
+cursed and decreed to produce thorns and thistles, etc., but this is
+the first time I ever saw the snake guard the thistle. In the evening
+Elders Kimball, G. A. Smith and Howard Egan rode down the river
+to visit the canyon. They returned about ten o'clock and said they had
+been eight miles down the river but at that distance did not arrive at
+the canyon and being late they concluded to return to camp.
+
+Sunday, July 18
+
+This morning the camp was called together and addressed by Elder
+Kimball. He reports President Young as being a very sick man. He
+proposed to the brethren that instead of their scattering off, some
+hunting, some fishing, and some climbing mountains, etc., that they
+should meet together and pray and exhort each other that the Lord may
+turn away sickness from our midst and from our President that we may
+proceed on our journey. It was decided to assemble at ten o'clock
+and at the sound of the bugle the brethren met in a small grove of
+shrubbery which they have made for the purpose opposite the wagons.
+During the meeting, Elder Kimball proposed to the brethren that all
+the camp, except President Young's and eight or ten other wagons with
+brethren enough to take care of him, etc., proceed on tomorrow and go
+through, find a good place, begin to plant potatoes, etc., as we have
+little time to spare. The proposition was acceeded to by unanimous vote
+and after a number had expressed their feelings the meeting adjourned
+till two o'clock at which time they again assembled and listened to
+remarks from a number of the brethren. Elder Kimball again gave much
+good instruction and prophesied of good things concerning the camp. The
+bishops broke bread and the sacrament was administered. Good feelings
+seem to prevail and the brethren desire to do right. A number yet
+continue sick, but we expect all will soon recover. The day is very hot
+with very little air moving. Elder Kimball consented for me to go on
+tomorrow with the company that goes ahead.
+
+Monday, July 19
+
+Morning fine and warm, President Young considerably better. At 7:45 we
+started onward leaving President Young and Kimball's wagons and several
+others. We found the road very rough on account of loose rocks and
+cobble stones. After traveling two and a quarter miles, we forded the
+river and found it about eighteen inches deep but proceeded without
+difficulty. Soon after we were over, Elder Snow came up and said the
+camp were requested to halt awhile till Dr. Richards came. One of
+his oxen is missing and he wished to go on. We concluded to move on
+a little to where the road should turn off between the mountains to
+avoid the canyon. Elder Pratt went three miles out of his road and had
+to return again. Three-quarters of a mile from the ford we found the
+place to make the cutoff and there halted awhile. I put a guide board
+up at this place marked as follows: "Pratt's Pass to avoid canyon. To
+Fort Bridger 74¼ miles." Brother Pack, having charge of the company,
+concluded to move on slowly and be making our way up the mountains. We
+accordingly started and after traveling a mile from the forks began to
+ascend and wind around the mountains. We found the road exceedingly
+rough and crooked and very dangerous on wagons. Three and a half miles
+from the forks of the road the brethren made a bridge over a small
+creek over which we crossed having passed a number of springs near the
+road. Two and a quarter miles farther we arrived on the summit of the
+dividing ridge and put a guide board up, "80 miles to Fort Bridger."
+At this place Elders Kimball, Woodruff, G. A. Smith and H. Egan
+rode up to view the road, etc. The descent is not very steep but
+exceedingly dangerous to wagons being mostly on the side hill over
+large cobble stones, causing the wagons to slide very badly. After
+traveling a little way, G. A. Smith's wagon wheels gave way going
+down a steep pitch. The spokes are loose in the hub, and worked about
+so that when the wagon slides they dish inward, etc. At two o'clock, we
+halted beside a small creek to water teams, having traveled ten and a
+half miles over exceedingly rough road. A wagon was unloaded, and sent
+for G. A. Smith's loading which is reported to be two miles back.
+While they were gone, many turned out their teams to graze. At 3:30 the
+men returned with the wagons, putting the loading into several so as
+to proceed and at 3:35 we started forward, the road turning suddenly
+to the right for about three-quarters of a mile and then a southwest
+course again. Here we ascend a very long steep hill for nearly a mile,
+then descend by a very crooked road. I think a better road might be
+made here and this high hill avoided and save a mile's travel. After
+traveling a little over three miles, we crossed a creek about a rod
+wide and eighteen inches deep, pretty steep going down but good going
+out. We went on a little farther and at half past five camped on a
+small spot surrounded by willow bushes full of mosquitoes, having
+traveled this afternoon three and a quarter miles and during the day
+thirteen and three-quarters. The day has been hot and no wind. Teams
+sweat much and it has been a pretty hard day's travel. There is not
+much grass here, but is said to be more plentiful a little farther.
+Several accidents have happened to wagons today but nothing serious
+except Brother G. A. Smith's. Dr. Richards' wagons arrived in camp
+at the same time the rest did. The sick are getting better. In the
+evening the brethren picked up a lot of dry willows and made a coal
+pit to set G. A. Smith's tire before we can leave tomorrow. The
+evening and night were very cold.
+
+Tuesday, July 20
+
+This morning fine and warm. The coal pit is burned and Burr Frost set
+Elder Smith's wagon tire and did various other repairs to a number of
+other wagons which took till nearly eleven o'clock, about which time
+the camp started onward. One of Brother Crow's men returned from Elder
+Pratt's company and reported that their camp is about nine miles from
+here. He is hunting stray cattle. He says the road is very rough from
+here and about a mile beyond where they are camped the road begins to
+ascend over a high range of mountains. Elder Pratt has been to the top
+but cannot see the Salt Lake from there. Their company is gone on. I
+walked ahead of the camp nearly four miles and picked many gooseberries
+nearly ripe. They are very plentiful on this bottom. The brethren spent
+much time cutting brush wood and improving the road. After traveling
+four miles, halted about half an hour to water teams and eat dinner.
+The road over which we have traveled is through an uneven gap between
+high mountains and is exceedingly rough and crooked. Not a place to
+be met with scarcely where there would be room to camp for the dense
+willow groves all along the bottom. We then proceeded on and traveled
+over the same kind of rough road till a little after 5:00 p.m. then
+camped on a ridge, having traveled today seven and a quarter miles. The
+last three miles has been the worst road of the two, it being through
+willow bushes over twenty feet high, also rose and gooseberry bushes
+and shaking poplar and birch timber. Although there has been a road
+cut through, it is yet scarcely possible to travel without tearing
+the wagon covers. We have crossed this creek which Elder Pratt names
+Canyon Creek eleven times during the day and the road is one of the
+most crooked I ever saw, many sharp turns in it and the willow stubs
+standing making it very severe on wagons. As we proceed up, the gap
+between the mountains seems to grow still narrower until arriving at
+this place where there is room to camp, but little grass for teams.
+There are many springs along the road but the water is not very good.
+In one place about a mile back there is a very bad swamp where the
+brethren spent some time cutting willows and laying them in to improve
+it. We have got along today without much damage which is somewhat
+favorable for the road is awful. At this place the ground around is
+represented as being swampy and dangerous for cattle. It is reported
+that there is no place to camp beyond this till where Elder Pratt's
+company camped and this is so small they have to huddle the wagons
+together. The soil continues sandy, except in the low moist places
+where it looks black and good. There is some pine occasionally in sight
+on the mountains, but timber here is scarce. We have passed through
+some small patches today where a few house logs might be cut, but this
+is truly a wild looking place.
+
+Wednesday, July 21
+
+We started onward at half past six, the morning fine and pleasant.
+We crossed the creek once more and about a half a mile from where we
+camped, the road turns to the right leaving the creek and ascending
+the mountains gradually. Much time was necessarily spent cutting down
+stumps, heaving out rocks and leveling the road. It is an exceedingly
+rough place. There are several springs at the foot of the mountain and
+one a mile from the top which runs above the ground a little distance,
+then sinks under again. The last half mile of the ascent is very steep
+and the nearer the top the steeper it grows. There is considerable
+timber up this gap but mostly destroyed by fire. We saw a prairie
+pheasant while going up and some wild gooseberries. At eleven o'clock,
+the teams began to arrive on the dividing ridge and in less than an
+hour, all were safely up. From this ridge we can see an extensive
+valley to the west but on every other side high mountains, many of
+them white with snow. It seems as though a few hours' travel might
+bring us out from the mountains on good road again. We halted on the
+ridge a little while and then prepared to descend, many locking both
+hind wheels, a precaution not at all unnecessary. We found the road
+down exceedingly steep and rendered dangerous by the many stumps of
+trees left standing in the road. The brethren cut up many of them which
+delayed us much. About a mile down is a bridge formed of small trees
+laid one on another to fill up a deep ravine. It is steep on both sides
+and here Joseph Rooker turned his wagon over, however, without much
+damage. A mile and a half from the top is a spring and small stream of
+very good cold water where we halted to let teams drink. This would
+make a tolerably good camp ground in case of necessity. After this, the
+road is not so steep but is very rough and winds between high hills or
+mountains through willows and brush wood and over soft places, crossing
+the creek a number of times. At four and a half miles from the top of
+the ridge, we arrived at a good spring of cold water, plenty of grass
+and a good place to camp. Our teams have now been in the harness about
+ten hours without eating and the feeling of many was to stay here, but
+some wanted to go on and we continued. Turning suddenly to the right
+a little below this spring we began to ascend another high ridge and
+while ascending some of the teams began to fail. There are a great many
+service berries on this ridge growing on what we supposed to be wild
+apple trees. The berries are good and rich when ripe. The descent from
+this ridge is not nearly so steep as the other one, yet many locked
+both hind wheels. After descending, we found another small creek and
+a very rough road again. At 7:30, we formed our encampment near the
+creek, having traveled fourteen miles in thirteen hours. There is but
+little grass here and a poor chance for cattle. Orson Pratt's company
+are camped a half a mile ahead of us and our camp was formed by Colonel
+Markham. He says they have had many new cases of sickness but mostly
+getting better. The cannon is left back on the other side of the
+mountains. About a mile back from this place there is a small grove of
+sugar maple and considerable other timber along the creek. There are
+also beds of nice green rushes in several places.
+
+Thursday, July 22
+
+This morning is cloudy and some like for rain. We started on at 8:30
+and soon came up with Elder Pratt's company. There were several bad
+places in the road where the brethren spent considerable time fixing
+them. As we near the mouth of the canyon, there is a small grove of
+elder bushes in bloom and considerable oak shrubbery. We named this a
+canyon because of the very high mountains on each side leaving but a
+few rods of a bottom for the creek to pass through and hardly room for
+a road. It is evident that the emigrants who passed this way last year
+must have spent a great deal of time cutting a road through the thickly
+set timber and heavy brush wood. It is reported that they spent sixteen
+days in making a road through from Weber River which is thirty-five
+miles but as the men did not work a quarter of their time much less
+would have sufficed. However, it has taken us over three days after the
+road is made although a great many hours have been spent in improving
+it. In this thick brush wood and around here there are many very large
+rattlesnakes lurking, making it necessary to use caution while passing
+through. After traveling one and three-quarters miles, we found the
+road crossing the creek again to the north side and then ascending up a
+very steep, high hill. It is so very steep as to be almost impossible
+for heavy wagons to ascend and so narrow that the least accident might
+precipitate a wagon down a bank three or four hundred feet, in which
+case it would certainly be dashed to pieces. Colonel Markham and
+another man went over the hill and returned up the canyon to see if
+a road cannot be cut through and avoid this hill. While passing up,
+a bear started near them but soon was out of sight amongst the very
+high grass. Brother Markham says a good road can soon be made down the
+canyon by digging a little and cutting through the bushes some ten or
+fifteen rods. A number of men went to work immediately to make the road
+which will be much better than to attempt crossing the hill and will be
+sooner done.
+
+Agreeable to President Young's instructions, Elder Pratt accompanied by
+George A. Smith, John Brown, Joseph Mathews, John Pack, O.P. Rockwell
+and J. C. Little started on this morning on horses to seek out
+a suitable place to plant some potatoes, turnips, etc., so as to
+preserve the seed at least. While the brethren were cutting the road,
+I followed the old one to the top of the hill and on arriving there
+was much cheered by a handsome view of the Great Salt Lake lying, as I
+should judge, from twenty-five to thirty miles to the west of us; and
+at eleven o'clock I sat down to contemplate and view the surrounding
+scenery. There is an extensive, beautiful, level looking valley from
+here to the lake which I should judge from the numerous deep green
+patches must be fertile and rich. The valley extends to the south
+probably fifty miles where it is again surrounded by high mountains.
+To the southwest across the valley at about twenty to twenty-five
+miles distance is a high mountain, extending from the south end of the
+valley to about opposite this place where it ceases abruptly leaving a
+pleasant view of the dark waters of the lake. Standing on the lake and
+about due west there are two mountains and far in the distance another
+one which I suppose is on the other side the lake, probably from sixty
+to eighty miles distance. To the northwest is another mountain at the
+base of which is a lone ridge of what I should consider to be rock salt
+from its white and shining appearance. The lake does not show at this
+distance a very extensive surface, but its dark blue shade resembling
+the calm sea looks very handsome. The intervening valley appears to
+be well supplied with streams, creeks and lakes, some of the latter
+are evidently salt. There is but little timber in sight anywhere, and
+that is mostly on the banks of creeks and streams of water which is
+about the only objection which could be raised in my estimation to this
+being one of the most beautiful valleys and pleasant places for a home
+for the Saints which could be found. Timber is evidently lacking but
+we have not expected to find a timbered country. There may be timber
+on the mountains which the long distance would render impossible to
+be seen with the naked eye, but the mountains through which we have
+passed have very little on them. In some places may be seen a grove
+of small fir or cedar or pine and in the valleys some cottonwood and
+other small timber. There is doubtless timber in all passes and ravines
+where streams descend from the mountains. There is no prospect for
+building log houses without spending a vast amount of time and labor,
+but we can make Spanish brick and dry them in the sun; or we can build
+lodges as the Pawnee Indians do in their villages. For my own part I
+am happily disappointed in the appearance of the valley of the Salt
+Lake, but if the land be as rich as it has the appearance of being, I
+have no fears but the Saints can live here and do well while we will
+do right. When I commune with my own heart and ask myself whether I
+would choose to dwell here in this wild looking country amongst the
+Saints surrounded by friends, though poor, enjoying the privileges
+and blessings of the everlasting priesthood, with God for our King
+and Father; or dwell amongst the gentiles with all their wealth and
+good things of the earth, to be eternally mobbed, harassed, hunted,
+our best men murdered and every good man's life continually in danger,
+the soft whisper echoes loud and reverberates back in tones of stern
+determination; give me the quiet wilderness and my family to associate
+with, surrounded by the Saints and adieu to the gentile world till God
+says return and avenge you of your enemies. If I had my family with me,
+how happy could I be, for I dread nothing so much as the journey back
+again and when I think of the many dangers from accident which families
+traveling this road are continually liable to and especially this last
+mountain road from Weber River, it makes me almost shudder to think of
+it and I could almost envy those who have got safely through, having
+their families with them, yet they will doubtless have a hard time of
+it the coming winter. Brother Crow's family especially have very little
+bread stuff with them, they say enough to last them two months and they
+are dependent on the success of their hunter for support through the
+winter. This valley appears to be fortified by mountains, except on the
+banks of the lake, on many of which there is still snow lying in large
+quantities. It is certain that good limestone abounds in these ridges
+and it is supposed coal can be found with little labor. From this hill
+I passed down the creek which we named the Last Creek about a mile and
+there saw a bed of bull rushes of the largest kind I ever saw, some
+of them being fifteen feet high and an inch and a half in diameter
+at the bottom. The grass on this creek grows from six to twelve feet
+high and appears very rank. There are some ducks around and sand hill
+cranes. Many signs of deer, antelope, and bears, but not many have been
+seen here. There have been fresh buffalo signs seen a few days' travel
+back, but those animals evidently do not stay in this region unless
+some come to winter. The ground seems literally alive with the very
+large black crickets crawling around up grass and bushes. They look
+loathsome but are said to be excellent for fattening hogs which would
+feed on them voraciously. The bears evidently live mostly on them at
+this season of the year. After spending about four hours' labor the
+brethren succeeded in cutting a pretty good road along the creek and
+the wagons proceeded on, taking near a southwest course. We found the
+last descent even but very rapid all the way. At half past five, we
+formed our encampment on a creek supposed to be Brown's Creek, having
+traveled seven and a quarter miles today. We are now five and a quarter
+miles from the mouth of this canyon making the whole distance of rough
+mountain road from the Weber River to the mouth of the canyon on this
+side a little less than thirty-five miles and decidedly the worst
+piece of road on the whole journey. At this place, the land is black
+and looks rich, sandy enough to make it good to work. The grass grows
+high and thick on the ground and is well mixed with nice green rushes.
+Feed here for our teams is very plentiful and good and the water is
+also good. There are many rattlesnakes of a large size in this valley
+and it is supposed they have dens in the mountains. The land looks dry
+and lacks rain, but the numerous creeks and springs must necessarily
+tend to moisten it much. The grass looks rich and good. A while after
+we camped, Elder Pratt and company returned and reported that they had
+been about fifteen miles north from here and this region is as suitable
+a place to put in our seeds as they have seen. Approaching nearer the
+lake, the land is mostly sunken and many small lakes in it. A few
+miles north of this, is a good spot to break up and plant potatoes,
+sow our seeds, etc. There is a little timber on the creek. From twelve
+to fifteen miles north at the foot of the mountain they saw many hot
+sulphur springs issuing from the rocks, as many as fifty in number.
+One of them, the largest, falls out of the rocks and then forms a pool
+apparently ten feet deep and a rock is in the center. The water of this
+is so hot a person cannot bear his hand in it but a very few seconds.
+It is strong of salt and sulphur and the bottom appears green as though
+it was covered with verdigris. A council was held at the Doctor's wagon
+and it was decided to move early tomorrow to the place designated;
+also, to send two men back to the President and company to report our
+progress, etc., then to commence forthwith and plow and plant about ten
+acres with potatoes this week if possible and thus continue till the
+seed is secured. John Pack and Joseph Mathews were selected to return
+to President Young's company. The evening was fine and pleasant and the
+night feels much warmer than in the ravines of the mountains.
+
+Friday, July 23
+
+This morning Elders Pack and Mathews started to meet the President and
+at the same time the camp moved on to the final location. We traveled
+two miles and then formed our encampment on the banks of the creek in
+an oblong circle. The grass here appears even richer and thicker on the
+ground than where we left this morning. The soil looks indeed rich,
+black and a little sandy. The grass is about four feet high and very
+thick on the ground and well mixed with rushes. If we stay here three
+weeks and our teams have any rest they will be in good order to return.
+As soon as the camp was formed a meeting was called and the brethren
+addressed by Elder Richards, mostly on the necessity and propriety of
+working faithfully and diligently to get potatoes, turnips, etc., in
+the ground. Elder Pratt reported their mission yesterday and after
+some remarks the meeting was dismissed. At the opening, the brethren
+united in prayer and asked the Lord to send rain on the land, etc. The
+brethren immediately rigged three plows and went to plowing a little
+northeast of the camp; another party went with spades, etc., to make a
+dam on one of the creeks so as to throw the water at pleasure on the
+field, designing to irrigate the land in case rain should not come
+sufficiently. This land is beautifully situated for irrigation, many
+nice streams descending from the mountains which can be turned in every
+direction so as to water any portion of the lands at pleasure. During
+the afternoon, heavy clouds began to collect in the southwest and at
+five o'clock we had a light shower with thunder. We had rains for about
+two hours. The brethren have plowed up considerable land and broken
+several of their plows, but there have been three plows going nearly
+all day. At night, the camp was called together and addressed by Elder
+Richards on a subject which seemed little welcome to many from the way
+it was handled. It was a sermon of ---- from end to end. Some
+felt a little insulted but it all passed off well and jokingly.
+
+Saturday, July 24
+
+The plowing is renewed and many are gone to planting potatoes. There
+is one drag going. Others are still at work on the dams. John Pack and
+Joseph Mathews returned at dark last night and reported the President
+and company a few miles up Last Creek. They have gone back this morning
+to fix two bridges at the mouth of the canyon. The day is fine and hot
+with a nice breeze. At a quarter to twelve, President Young and Kimball
+arrived and the wagons also began to arrive at the same time. The
+President seems much better and the sick generally are getting better.
+Most of the brethren express themselves well; pleased with the place,
+but some complain because there is no timber. There appears to be a
+unanimous agreement in regard to the richness of the soil and there are
+good prospects of sustaining and fattening stock with little trouble.
+The only objection is a lack of timber and rain. The latter God will
+send in its season if the Saints are faithful and I think yesterday was
+a proof that He listens to and answers the prayers of the Saints. We
+can easily irrigate the land at all events which will be an unfailing
+and certain source of water, for the springs are numerous and the water
+appears good. About 5:00 p.m. we were favored with another nice shower
+accompanied by thunder and some wind. It continued raining till nearly
+dark; the balance of the evening fine. Elder Kimball says that it is
+contemplated to send out an exploring party to start on Monday and
+proceed north to the Bear River and Cache valleys. They design taking
+several wagons with them and Presidents Young and Kimball accompany the
+expedition. Another company is to start at the same time and go west to
+the lake, then south to the Utah lake and return down this valley.
+
+Sunday, July 25
+
+Morning fine and pleasant. At ten o'clock a meeting was held in the
+camp and the brethren addressed successively by Elders G. A.
+Smith, H. C. Kimball and E. T. Benson, these mostly
+expressing their feeling of gratification for the prospects of this
+country, each being highly satisfied with the soil, etc. Elder Kimball
+referred especially to the manifold blessings we have been favored
+with during the journey. Not a man, woman, or child has died on the
+journey, not even a horse, mule, ox, cow or chicken has died during
+the whole journey. Many exhortations were given to the brethren to
+be faithful, obey the council of those in authority and we shall be
+blessed and prosperous. At 1:00 p.m. by request of Elder Kimball, the
+following persons viz.: Howard Egan, Hans C. Hanson, Jackson Redding,
+Carlos Murray, Thomas Cloward, George Billings, Philo Johnson, Charles
+Harper, Edson Whipple, Wm. A. King, Hosea Cusing, Robert Byard, Orson
+K. Whitney and Horace Whitney, assembled themselves in a willow grove
+adjacent to the camp where Elder Kimball addressed them in substance as
+follows [the whole reported by Horace Whitney]:
+
+"Most of you here present have become adopted into my family, except
+a very few calling them by name and Horace, who has become connected
+with my family by marriage, but I do not care for that, you are all the
+same to me, and your interest is my interest for what's mine is yours
+and what's yours is your own. If I have the privilege of building a
+house, I want you to help me and I will help you. Horace will want to
+build a house for some of his father's family if they should come up
+and there is plenty of timber in the hills. When my family comes up,
+we may conclude to settle somewhere else. If so, there will be plenty
+to buy us out if we shall have made any improvements. I want you all
+to be prudent and take care of your horses, cattle and everything
+entrusted to your care. It would be a good plan and probably will be
+done for those who stay here, to go back on the Sweet Water and kill
+buffalo, etc., for winter consumption. We shall go tomorrow if Brigham
+is well enough, in search of a better location--if indeed, such
+can be found--if not, we shall remain here. There should be an
+enclosure made for the purpose of keeping the horses and cattle in
+nights for there are plenty of Indians in the vicinity. I should
+advise you to keep the Sabbath day holy whether others do or not. I
+want you to put all the seed into the ground that you think will come
+to maturity. I am satisfied that buckwheat will do as well here as
+any other seed we can grow. I want also some peach stones and apple
+seeds to be planted forthwith. Brother Byard and Hans I would like
+to have immediately engage in making garments of buck skins, Brother
+Cloward in making shoes and Brother Johnson in making hats as soon as
+practicable. If you wish to go hunting, fishing, or to see the country,
+select a week day and not the Lord's day for that purpose. Do not let
+us get giddy and light minded as the Nephites did of old, but strive to
+work righteousness in the beginning, inasmuch as we have reached the
+promised land. If it is advisable to work in a family capacity, we will
+do so; and if in a church capacity, we should be equally willing to do
+that. I am going out on a scout with the brethren and I shall probably
+want one or two of you to go with me and also one or two wagons. I
+am not going to take anything back with me to Winter Quarters except
+what is actually necessary--even some of my clothes I shall leave
+behind. I shall leave Bishop Whipple with you. He is quite a steady
+and economical man, and as such I recommend him to you. I want every
+man to be as industrious as possible while I am gone and get into the
+ground all the turnips, cabbage and other seeds you can. In case a
+storm of snow should come on, it would be advisable to drive all the
+cattle among the willows where they can remain until the snow goes off.
+I want you all to work together until such time as every man can have
+his inheritance set off to him. I feel towards you as a father towards
+his children and I want you to banish all peevishness from your midst
+and accommodate yourselves as much as possible to each other's wishes.
+I have it to say that my boys have been faithful to their various
+duties on this journey and other people have noticed it and expressed
+the opinion that they never saw such an attentive set of men in their
+lives, and I consider that their conduct is worthy of imitation. I want
+you to be sober and prayerful and remember me and my family in your
+prayers." A number of other good ideas were advanced by Brother Heber
+and then we closed the meeting by prayer.
+
+At 2:00 p.m. the brethren again assembled within the camp and were
+successively addressed by Elders Woodruff, Orson Pratt and W. Richards
+sustaining the ideas advanced by the other brethren this morning. Some
+remarks followed from Lorenzo Young, John Pack and others and the
+meeting was dismissed. It is contemplated to send some wagons back to
+lighten the loads and assist the next company over these rough roads.
+It is now certain that there is considerable timber in the ravines and
+valleys between the mountains, several large bodies having been seen
+by the brethren since our arrival. There is a mountain lying northeast
+from here on which is considerably large timber. It is supposed to be
+about ten miles distance. The northern expedition is given up for the
+present on account of President Young's health. A company intend to
+go tomorrow to the lake and survey that region. If they go, they will
+probably be gone a day or two.
+
+Monday, July 26
+
+Morning cloudy and pleasant. The brethren commenced plowing early,
+others are gone to planting, etc., and the brethren appear to feel
+well. Some of the sick have been to bathe in one of the hot springs
+and pronounce the effects wonderfully beneficial. Others are going
+this morning to try the same experiment. Another company are gone to
+make a road to the timber through a ravine a little north of this.
+About ten o'clock, President Young sent me a horse with instructions
+to join him and some others going on a short exploring expedition.
+I immediately started and found the company consisted of President
+Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff, G. A. Smith, Benson, Richards
+and Carrington. We took a course northward passing by the land where
+the brethren are plowing and planting. The land indeed looks rich and
+light. About three-quarters of a mile north of the camp, we arrived on
+a beautiful table land, level and nicely sloping to the west. Here we
+halted to view it and the more we viewed, the better we were satisfied
+that it is as handsome a place for a city as can be imagined. At the
+east part there is a considerable creek of clear cold water descending
+from the mountains and just above this place it branches into two
+forks, one running northwest, the other southwest, and the two nicely
+surrounding this place, and so well arranged that should a city be
+built here the water can be turned into every street at pleasure. We
+passed on and began to ascend the mountains, the President signifying
+a wish to ascend a high peak to the north of us. After some hard toil
+and time we succeeded in gaining the summit, leaving our horses about
+two-thirds the way up. President Young felt pretty well fatigued when
+he got up. Some of the brethren feel like naming this Ensign Peak. From
+this place, we had a good view of the Salt Lake and could see that the
+waters extend for a great many miles to the north of us. There appears
+to be land, although white with salt, all the way to the mountain
+on the northwest which we had previously supposed was surrounded by
+water. We can see a pretty large stream winding from the south to the
+north through the valley but keeping not many miles distant from these
+mountains towards the lake. After satisfying ourselves we began to
+descend, President Young and Lorenzo, who joined us a while before we
+went up, going down on the east side where they were joined by Elders
+Woodruff, Benson, and Richards with the horses. Elders Kimball, Smith,
+Carrington and myself descended on the northwest corner and found the
+descent very lengthy and difficult. These hills are mostly rocky of a
+kind of soft stone in some places, in others a harder kind of flint
+stone. On arriving on the level again, we wound our way southward to
+meet the other brethren and after passing a little way saw one of the
+sulphur springs where a pretty large stream of sulphur water boils out
+of the rock at the foot of the mountain and thence branches out into
+several smaller streams for some distance till these enter a small
+lake. This water is about as warm as dish water and very salty. There
+is much filthy kind of substance collected on it and the smell arising
+from it is truly nauseating and sickly, though generally supposed to
+be in no way unhealthy. Elder Kimball left us here on seeing Elder
+Woodruff's carriage and the other brethren returning back towards the
+camp. In the meantime, Elders Smith, Carrington and myself went lower
+down towards the lake in search of some fresh water to quench our
+thirst. We found a nice clear stream of cold water but a little way
+from the sulphur spring and having drunk of it, we concluded to go
+on and see the river which we had noticed from the mountain. We took
+nearly a west course and soon struck the old road made by emigrants
+last year. We found the land exceedingly rich all along, good grass and
+abundance of rushes. We found many wet places but no signs of swamps,
+nor danger of miring. After traveling about two miles, we arrived at
+the river having followed the road to the ford. This river is about
+five rods wide on an average, three and a half feet deep at the ford
+but in other places much deeper. The current is slow and the water of
+a dark lead color. The banks are about five feet high and the soil to
+the water level of a rich, black alluvial. There is no timber on the
+banks here and not many willow bushes. We went over the river and found
+the soil equally good on the other side. While here we observed Elder
+Woodruff's carriage and the brethren again proceeding northward. We
+started back to meet them, it being the intention to go to the large,
+hot sulphur spring. We could but remark all along, the richness of
+the soil and the abundance of high, good looking grass. On arriving
+at the foot of the mountain beside another sulphur spring, we saw the
+carriage come on to the first spring but apparently judging it unsafe
+to cross, they wheeled around and returned back to camp. Elders Smith,
+Carrington and myself then concluded to go on and view the big spring
+which we found to be about two miles farther. Before arriving at it,
+there is a large shoal salt lake and on the banks are numerous sulphur
+springs varying in the appearance of the surface and losing themselves
+in the lake. There were many plovers on and around this lake. We
+arrived at the big spring about four o'clock and making our horses
+fast, we went down to where it boils out of the rock. This spring is
+also situated at the foot of the mountains and at the base of a large
+rock, perpendicular on the west side and gradually losing itself on
+the east in the mountain. The spring, as I have said, is at the base
+of this rock. There is a circular hole about four feet wide and a yard
+high from the top to the surface of the water from whence the water
+boils out in a considerable stream. The water itself in the spring
+seems to be about two feet deep. There is a rock at the mouth of the
+spring where a person can stand and see inside. Standing on this rock
+with your face near the mouth of the spring a strong warm sulphurous
+air is felt to come in gusts out of the rock and it is so hot that it
+requires only a few minutes to start the perspiration. On putting my
+hand in the spring, I was startled with the heat and found I could not
+bear to hold my hand in five seconds. It is as hot as the hottest dish
+water ever used for dishes. Immediately on emerging from the rock, the
+water forms a lake about three rods in diameter and evidently pretty
+deep. The water is exceedingly clear and nice to look at but very salty
+indeed. We could see the water boil up in many parts of the lake. The
+water escapes at the north side of the lake at the base of the rock and
+there forms a stream about four feet wide and eighteen inches deep. We
+concluded we would go down the stream six or eight rods to wash our
+feet, naturally expecting the water to be cooler, but on taking off
+our boots and socks we found it impossible to hold our feet in it a
+moment and could barely wash by dashing the water on with our hands
+and suddenly dipping them in and out. It is supposed this would boil
+an egg in about ten minutes. At five o'clock we returned back to camp
+and supposed that the spring is about four miles distance. We arrived
+in camp at six o'clock. The brethren have planted about three acres of
+potatoes, some peas, beans, and are now planting four or five acres
+of corn. Elder Kimball stated that on returning with the carriage to
+the creek near the camp to get some water, he discovered that he had
+lost his spy glass. He retraced his steps on foot to the top of the
+peak and back without finding it, and on arriving at the bottom he saw
+Elders Richards and Benson bathing in one of the warm sulphur springs.
+Although wet with perspiration he took off his clothes and plunged in
+and found the effects very pleasant and beneficial. After bathing they
+started back for camp and but a few rods distance found the glass near
+the road. Some of the brethren have commenced making a garden about two
+miles to the southeast and indeed their operations and industry are
+truly pleasing and noble. The more I view the country, the better I am
+satisfied that the Saints can live here and raise abundant crops. Elder
+Kimball has kindly offered me a horse to ride and view the country
+as much and when I have a mind to while we stay here. This morning
+Joseph Mathews and John Brown started west to go to the mountain. They
+returned this evening and report that they have been at the foot of
+the mountain and judge it to be about sixteen miles distance. They say
+the wild sage is very plentiful on the other side the valley, showing
+that the land is not so rich there as here. They found a horse, near
+the mountain and have brought it to camp, supposed to have strayed from
+emigrants who have previously passed this way. Towards sundown heavy
+clouds were noticed in the south and southwest. We expected a shower,
+but it passed off to the east.
+
+Tuesday, July 27
+
+Morning fine and warm. The atmosphere appears very different here to
+what it did amongst the mountains. The evenings and nights are very
+warm and pleasant and the air appears pure. Two of the Utah Indians
+came to camp early this morning to trade. Two ponies were bought of
+them for a rifle and musket. These two are but of moderate size,
+pleasing countenance and dressed in skins. At half past eight Amasa
+Lyman, Rodney Badger, Roswell Stevens, and Brother Brannan arrived in
+camp. They report that the Pueblo company will be in tomorrow or the
+day after. The brethren are still busy plowing and planting. Burr Frost
+has his forge up and quite a number of plows have been rigged up by the
+assistance of the carpenters. Elder Lyman, I understand, reports that
+they heard of a large company on their way and he thinks we may expect
+them in 15 or 20 days. Elders Lyman and Brannan joined the exploring
+party with President Young and Kimball and the company started off soon
+after their arrival. A company of brethren have been to the mountains
+to get more lumber to build a skiff. They returned this evening
+bringing a very handsome pine log about twenty inches through and
+which, probably, when whole, would measure sixty feet long. The day has
+been very fine and warm. The horses and cattle seem in good spirits and
+are getting fat. They are full of life and ambition. Presidents Young
+and Kimball have had their wagons moved a little distance from the camp
+to the other side the creek. During the afternoon, two more Indians
+came in to trade. Some of the brethren are making unwise trades, giving
+twenty charges of powder and balls for a buck skin, while the usual
+price is three charges. This is wrong.
+
+Wednesday, July 28
+
+Morning fine and warm. Several of the Indians have remained in camp
+over night. They seem very peaceable and gentle and anxious to trade.
+The brethren are making a saw pit to saw lumber for a skiff. Joseph
+Hancock and Lewis Barney have been off hunting in the mountains two
+days. They state there is abundance of good timber for building in the
+mountains but difficult to get at it. The timber is mostly balsam fir
+and poplar and many sticks will make two good logs. At half past three
+President Young and company returned. They have been at the Salt Lake
+and report it to be about twenty-five miles distance. No water after
+they leave the river except salt water. The lake is very clear and the
+water heavy, so much so, that a man cannot possibly sink. Even not
+where more than four feet deep and they tried to fall down on their
+knees but could not touch the bottom. They can sit or lie in the water
+perfectly easily without touching the bottom. One of the brethren lay
+down on the water and another got on him but could not sink him. They
+suppose the water will yield 35% pure salt. They gathered some off the
+rocks which is as pure, white and fine as the best that can be bought
+in market.
+
+There is a cave in the mountain west of the camp which is sixty feet
+from the entrance to the far end. The Indians appear to have frequently
+visited it and there are yet the remains of their fires.
+
+There appears to be no fresh water beyond the river and the brethren
+are more and more satisfied that we are already on the right spot.
+At eight o'clock the brethren were called together and addressed by
+President Young on various subjects, pointing out items of law which
+would be put in force here, his feelings towards the gentiles, etc. He
+said they intended to divide the city into blocks of ten acres each
+with eight lots in a block of one and a quarter acres each. The streets
+to be wide. No house will be permitted to be built on the corners of
+the streets, neither petty shops. Each house will have to be built so
+many feet back from the street and all the houses parallel with each
+other. The fronts are to be beautified with fruit trees, etc. No filth
+will be allowed to stand in the city but the water will be conducted
+through in such a manner as to carry all the filth off to the River
+Jordan. No man will be suffered to cut up his lot and sell a part to
+speculate out of his brethren. Each man must keep his lot whole, for
+the Lord has given it to us without price. The temple lot will be
+forty acres and adorned with trees, ponds, etc. The whole subject was
+interesting to the brethren and the items will probably be given more
+fully hereafter. The Twelve were appointed a committee to lay off the
+city, etc.
+
+Thursday, July 29
+
+We have had a very strong cold, east wind all the night and the morning
+is tolerably cool. At eleven o'clock I was moved up to the other camp
+about three-quarters of a mile. At ten o'clock we had a light shower.
+It rained pretty heavily all around but mostly passed by here. At three
+o'clock, the Pueblo brethren came in sight, the soldiers appearing in
+military order, many of them mounted. They have twenty-nine wagons in
+the company and one carriage. Presidents Young, Kimball and the Twelve
+went to meet the brethren and met them in the canyon. They report that
+they had very heavy rain there, the water rising in the creek three
+feet in a very short time, caused by the rush from the mountains. The
+brethren arrived at the lower camp at half past three and marched in
+headed by the fifes and side drum. They have camped a little west
+of the other camp. The brethren are represented as feeling well and
+cheerful. At five o'clock the Twelve returned here and an hour later
+went over north to the mountains, I suppose to hold a council.
+
+Friday, July 30
+
+Day warm. Twelve held a council with the officer of the battalion,
+then rode up to the hot spring. Evening a general meeting of the camp
+and addressed by President Young. He told his feelings concerning the
+soldiers, they have saved the people by going when required, etc. He
+rejoiced that they are here. He expressed his feelings warmly towards
+the brethren and also told his feelings towards the gentiles. The
+meeting was opened by hosannas three times and closed by requesting
+the battalion to build a bower tomorrow on the temple lot where we can
+assemble for meetings, etc.
+
+Saturday, July 31
+
+This morning the brethren commenced making the bower on the temple lot
+a little southwest from our camp. They will make it about forty feet
+long and twenty-eight feet wide. Walked with President Young, Kimball,
+Richards and others to the Mississippi camp. Brother Thomas Richardson
+is very sick and several others of the soldiers. Soloman Tindal is yet
+alive but looks feeble. Elder Kimball conversed sometime with Captain
+James Brown. There are from twenty to thirty of the Utah Indians here
+and some squaws trading with the brethren. They are generally of low
+stature, pleasing countenance but poorly clad. While we were there, a
+dispute arose between two of the young men and they went to fighting
+very fiercely. One broke his gun stock on the other's head and I
+expected to see a pretty serious affray, many of the others gathering
+around. Soon an old man came up, father to one of the young men engaged
+in the quarrel and he used his heavy whip very freely about both their
+heads and faces. The antagonist of the son struck the old man and he
+immediately gathered a long pole and broke it over the young man's
+head. He succeeded in quelling the broil and gave them a long lecture.
+They then mostly left and resumed their trading a little distance from
+the camp. In the afternoon, we had a pretty smart thunder shower and
+considerable wind. In the evening I walked down to the Pueblo camp and
+there learned the following particulars:
+
+These Indians who are now here are of the Shoshones, about fifteen or
+twenty in number, and several women among them. There were four or five
+of the Utahs here this morning when the Shoshones came up. One of the
+Utahs had stolen a horse from one of the Shoshones and the latter party
+saw him with the horse here. He had traded the horse for a rifle but
+was unwilling either to give up the horse or rifle hence the quarrel
+spoken of above. When the old man separated them, the thief went down
+and hid himself in the camp below. Soon after, he saw another horse
+walking by, which he knew to belong to the Shoshones. He sprang on his
+own horse and drove the other one before him towards the mountains on
+the southeast as hard as he could ride. The Shoshones being informed
+of it, four of them started in pursuit and as he got in between the
+mountains they closed in on him, one of the pursuers shooting him dead
+while another one shot his horse. They returned and made this report
+to the others of the tribe at the camp at the same time exhibiting
+fresh blood on one of the rifles. They appear to be much excited and
+continually on the watch. When the men returned, they sat down and made
+a meal of some of these large crickets. They appear to be crisped over
+the fire which is all the cooking required. Many of the brethren have
+traded muskets and rifles for horses and ordinary muskets will buy a
+pretty good horse. They appear to be displeased because we have traded
+with the Utahs and say they own this land, that that the Utahs have
+come over the line, etc. They signified by signs that they wanted to
+sell us the land for powder and lead. The Shoshones are poorer clad
+than the Utahs. They are about the same in stature and there are many
+pleasing countenances among them. Colonel Markham reports that there
+are three lots of land already broke. One lot of thirty-five acres of
+which two-thirds is already planted with buckwheat, corn, oats, etc.
+One lot of eight acres which is all planted with corn, potatoes, beans,
+etc. And a garden of ten acres, four acres of which is sown with garden
+seed. He says there are about three acres of corn already up about two
+inches above the ground and some beans and potatoes up too. This is
+the result of eight days' labor, besides making a road to the timber,
+hauling and sawing timber for a boat, making and repairing plows, etc.
+There have been thirteen plows and three harrows worked during the week.
+
+
+
+August 1847
+
+Sunday, August 1
+
+We have had another cool windy night. At ten o'clock in the morning
+the brethren assembled for meeting under the bower on the temple lot,
+all the members of the quorum of the Twelve being present except
+President Young who is quite sick again. After the meeting had been
+opened by singing and prayer by Elder G. A. Smith, Elder Kimball
+arose and made some remarks to the following effect, as reported by
+Brother Bullock: "I would enquire whether there is a guard out around
+our cattle; if not, let one be placed immediately. The Indians left
+here very suddenly this morning and we don't know their object. If we
+don't take good care of what we have, we will not have any more. It is
+all in the world we shall ever have, for 'to him that receiveth I will
+give more.' We are the sons of God and He will do with us as we would
+do to our children, and inasmuch as I am faithful in taking care of my
+neighbors' goods, I shall be entitled to the same from them, for we
+are commanded to do unto others as we want others to do to us. Every
+penurious man who takes advantage of others will come down to poverty.
+If we have to follow the steps of our Savior we have to follow and
+experience the same things; you will have to feel for men so as to know
+how to sympathize with them and then you can feel for them. I feel for
+this people and grow more feeling for them every day. Our Father in
+Heaven is more tender to us than any mother to her little child. If I
+am faithful to serve others, others will be willing to serve me."
+
+Orson Pratt requested the prayers of the Saints in his behalf: "It
+is with peculiar feelings that I arise before so many of the Saints
+in this uncultivated region inhabited by savages. My mind is full
+of reflection on the scenes through which we have passed and being
+brought through the deserts of sage to this distant region. God's ways
+are not as our ways. It is not wisdom that the Saints should always
+foresee the difficulties they have to encounter for then they would
+not be trials. We expected some revelations to take place and behold
+they are revealed in the Book of Mormon and Doctrine and Covenants,
+for we are to congregate among the remnants of Joseph. We did think
+our wives and children would be built up among the strongholds of the
+gentiles, we thought we should be as Missourians to them. Jehovah had
+different purposes. He designed that this people should be brought
+out almost as an entire people. The Book of Mormon never would have
+been fulfilled if the Saints had not left the gentiles as a people,
+for when the gentiles rejected the Gospel it was to be taken among the
+Lamanites. So long as the Gospel, the Priesthood and the main body of
+the people remained with them, the fullness of the Gospel was not taken
+away from the gentiles. This movement is one of the greatest that has
+taken place among this people. I feel thankful as one of the Twelve for
+the privilege of coming out as one of the pioneers to this glorious
+valley where we can build up a city to the Lord. For many years I have
+not read that good old book, but I remember the predictions in it and
+some that are now very nearly fulfilled by us. Isaiah says, (Chapter
+62) speaking of the City of Zion, it shall be 'Sought out, a city not
+forsaken,' etc. Many in this congregation know what is meant by the
+garments of salvation and the robe of righteousness. Righteousness and
+praise shall spring forth before all the nations of the earth and they
+will not hold their peace. There are many of you that feel you can cry
+day and night to the people in the cause of righteousness until it
+shall triumph. 'For as a young man marrieth a virgin,' etc.--this
+belongs and refers to us. 'I will no longer give thy corn to be meat
+for thine enemy.' This has not been fulfilled heretofore but will be.
+The corn that we toil to raise from the earth, it shall not be given
+to our enemies, they that gather it shall eat it, and they shall drink
+in the courts of His holiness. This wine is also to be drunk in the
+courts of the Lord's house. We have gathered out the stones out of the
+road and thousands will yet fulfil this prophecy. It has reference
+to the latter times that were to dawn upon the world in the last
+dispensation. 'Thou shalt be called, Sought out, A city not forsaken.'
+If ever there was a place sought out it is this, we have enquired
+diligently and have found it. This cannot refer to Jerusalem, but to
+this very place, point and spot that the pioneers have found where a
+city shall be built unto the Lord, where righteousness will reign and
+iniquity not be allowed. Isaiah and Joel both spake very plainly on
+this subject. 'It shall come to pass in the last days that the house of
+the Lord shall be established,' etc. In what part of the earth could
+it be established more than in this place where this congregation is
+gathered. In the midst of the spires of the mountains we have found
+a place large enough to gather a few thousand of the Saints. You may
+travel Europe, Asia, Africa and America but you cannot find a place
+much higher where any people can raise crops and sustain themselves.
+The house of the Lord will be established on the tops of the mountains
+when we shall have once reared here. The experience of the Saints
+proves that there was no house of the Lord, and we can say: travel over
+this earth but you cannot find the house of the Lord. The Lord must
+give the pattern of the building and order it, and give directions to
+His servants. The Lord wants His house built precisely to the pattern
+that He gives and He is bound to speak to and bless and make them His
+own children in that house and I verily believe I shall see it and see
+thousands come flocking to the house to learn the way of salvation.
+And I want to see the time that I shall see thousands raising their
+voices on this consecrated land. There are many testimonies in the
+prophets all bearing upon this subject. Joseph, in the Book of Doctrine
+and Covenants speaks of this very subject and it appears there will be
+some sinners in Zion who will be afraid and a devouring fire will rest
+upon every dwelling place in Zion. 'He that walketh righteously' etc.,
+'He shall dwell on high, bread shall be given him, his water shall
+be sure.' Isaiah was on the eastern continent when he spoke this and
+was speaking of a very distant place. It will be pretty difficult to
+get a ship of war up to this place. When we get used to this healthy
+climate, the people will not say, I am sick, but will be able to smite
+the gentiles. They will grow up strong and will not be in jeopardy
+from sickness. The wilderness shall become as a fruitful field and a
+fruitful field as a forest. We know the time will come that the great
+Jehovah will cause springs of water to gush out of the desert lands
+and we shall see the lands survive that the gentiles have defiled.
+Isaiah speaks of the heritage of Jacob being in a high place. This
+is about four thousand feet above the level of the sea and the high
+mountains will still catch the hail and we shall be in a low place. We
+will not feel discouraged but will feel full of vigor and circumscribe
+all things to the very heavens, for this is what we desire above all
+things. Let us endeavor to covenant in our hearts, that we will serve
+the Lord; that we will keep His commandments and obey His counsel. I
+wish that all of us should be faithful and as President Young said the
+other evening, every man is expected to do his duty. The Lord will be
+with us still; He will shield, guard and defend us by day and be our
+refuge by night, and our salvation. I feel to say in the name of the
+Lord Jesus Christ, you shall be blest if you keep the commandments of
+God. Amen."
+
+Elder Kimball hopes the brethren will be attentive to what they hear
+for if you bring an evil upon this people you will bring destruction
+upon yourself. If you do things according to counsel and they are
+wrong, the consequences will fall on the heads of those who counseled
+you, so don't be troubled. I do not want to be wrapt in the skins of
+some men who have taken a course that has brought destruction upon
+themselves and others, and they will have to answer for it. I am a man
+that would not speak to a man's daughter to marry her until I have
+first spoken to her father and mother also, and then it is done by
+common consent. But I preach the truth, every word of it. President
+Young instructed the Battalion last evening and counseled them for
+their comfort and the counsel is for the brethren to keep their guns
+and their powder and their balls and lead and not let the Indians have
+it for they will shoot down our cattle. They stole guns yesterday and
+had them under their blankets and if you don't attend to this you are
+heating a kettle of boiling water to scald your own feet. If you listen
+to counsel you will let them alone and let them eat the crickets,
+there's a plenty of them. I understand they offered to sell the land
+and we were to buy it of them, the Utahs would want to pay for it too.
+The land belongs to our Father in Heaven and we calculate to plow and
+plant it and no man will have power to sell his inheritance for he
+cannot remove it; it belongs to the Lord. I am glad I have come to a
+place where I feel free. I am satisfied and we are in a goodly land. My
+family is back, my teams are helping on several families and leaving
+ours. If my family were here I would not go over that road again. I
+believe in Brother Joseph's religion which he said was a key that would
+save every man or woman, and that it is for every man to mind his own
+business and let other people's business alone. We will all have farms
+and cultivate them and plant vineyards, and if we are faithful, five
+years will not pass away before we are better off than we ever were
+in Nauvoo. If we had brought our families along everybody else would
+have come; and we must lose another year. We could not bring all the
+soldiers' families for the same reason that we did not bring our own
+families. I thank the Lord that there are so many of the soldiers here.
+If they had tarried in Winter Quarters there would have been many more
+deaths among them. We brought many of these pioneers to save their
+lives, many of them were very sick and were carried out of their beds
+and put into the wagons. They have mostly recovered their health and
+we have been prosperous and have been permitted to arrive here alive.
+There has not one died on the journey, nor an ox nor horse nor anything
+except one of Brother Crow's oxen which was poisoned. We lost several
+horses by accident and we shall be prosperous on our journey back again
+if we are faithful, those of us who go, and we shall see and enjoy
+the society of our families again. We will one day have a house built
+here and have the forts and go into the house and administer for our
+dead. Elder Richards then read an order from Lieut. Cooke of the Mormon
+Battalion on the Pacific, after which Elder Bullock read a letter from
+Jefferson Hunt to James Brown, dated July 6, 1847, after which and a
+few other remarks, the meeting was dismissed.
+
+At 2:25 the congregation assembled and opened by singing and prayer by
+Elder Woodruff. Bread and water were then administered by the bishops
+after which Elder Richards, after a few preliminary remarks, read the
+"Word and will of the Lord," as given in Winter Quarters. Elder Kimball
+made some remarks and the brethren manifested that they received and
+would obey the revelations by uplifted hand. He was followed by remarks
+by Elder Amasa Lyman, mostly sustaining the positions taken by the
+previous speakers. Elder Kimball again rose to lay before the brethren
+some items of business, whereupon it was decided that the three
+companies form into one camp and labor together that the officers be a
+committee to form the corral, and that the corral be formed tomorrow.
+That horses and mules be tied near the camp at nights; that we build
+houses instead of living in wagons this winter; that we go to work
+immediately putting up houses; that we work unitedly; that the houses
+form a stockade or fort to keep out the Indians; that our women and
+children be not abused and that we let the Indians alone.
+
+Colonel Rockwood remarked that a log house 16 by 15 would cost forty
+dollars and one of adobes half as much. Captain Brown was in favor of
+setting men to work building both log and adobe houses to hasten the
+work. Captain Lewis said that inasmuch as timber is scarce and we have
+spades and shovels and tools enough, as many as can be used, he is in
+favor of building adobe houses and saving the timber. Lieutenant Willis
+said you can put up an adobe house before a man could get the logs for
+a log house. Adobe houses are healthy and are the best for equinoxial
+gales. Elder Brannan has a man in California who will take three men,
+make adobes for a thirty foot house, build the house and put a family
+in it in a week. His printing office was put up in fourteen days and a
+paper printed. Elder Richards said we want brick made and lime burned.
+If wood is put into houses it will be a waste of it. We want all the
+timber to make floors and roofs. We want the walls up and we are men
+enough to put them up in a few days and have the women protected.
+It was voted to put up a stockade of adobe houses. Samuel Gould and
+James Drum reported themselves as lime burners. Sylvester H. Earl,
+Joel J. Terrill, Ralph Douglas and Joseph Hancock reported themselves
+as brick makers. Elder Kimball then remarked that those who intend
+to send ox teams back to Winter Quarters must be ready a week from
+tomorrow morning. If the cattle's feet are too tender, have them shod,
+or have new shoes in the wagons. Those oxen to rest and be released
+from plowing, etc. Do not get the Indians around here. I want you to
+have nothing to do with them. After a few remarks on general items, the
+meeting dismissed.
+
+Monday, August 2
+
+We have had another cool night, but morning fine. The other companies
+commenced moving their wagons up and we also moved a little farther
+east. During the day the whole camp was formed in an oblong circle.
+About noon Ezra T. Benson and several others started back to meet the
+next company. They carried a letter, the following being a copy of the
+same:
+
+"Pioneer camp. Valley of the Great Salt Lake, August 2, 1847. To
+General Chas. C. Rich and the Presidents and Officers of the emigrating
+company. Beloved Brethren: We have delegated our beloved Brother Ezra
+T. Benson and escort to communicate to you by express the cheering
+intelligence that we have arrived in the most beautiful valley of the
+Great Salt Lake, that every soul who left Winter Quarters with us
+is alive and almost everyone enjoying good health. That portion of
+the battalion that was at Pueblo is here with us together with the
+Mississippi company that accompanied them and they are generally well.
+We number about 450 souls and we know of no one but who is pleased with
+our situation. We have commenced the survey of a city this morning. We
+feel that the time is fast approaching when those teams that are going
+to Winter Quarters this fall should be on the way. Every individual
+here would be glad to tarry if his friends were here, but as many of
+the battalion, as well as the pioneers, have not their families here
+and do not expect that they are in your camp, we wish to learn by
+express from you, the situation of your camp as speedily as possible
+that we may be prepared to counsel and act in the whole matter. We
+want you to send us the names of every individual in your camp, or in
+other words, a copy of your camp roll, including the names, number of
+wagons, horses, mules, oxen, cows, etc., and the health of your camp,
+your location, prospects, etc. If your teams are worn out, if your camp
+is sick and not able to take care of themselves, if you are short of
+teamsters or any other circumstance impeding your progress. We want to
+know it immediately for we have help for you, and if your teams are in
+good plight and will be able to return to Winter Quarters this season
+or any portion of them, we want to know it. We also want the mail,
+which will include all letters and papers, and packages belonging to
+our camp, general and particular. Should circumstances permit, we would
+gladly meet you some distance from this, but our time is very much
+occupied. Notwithstanding, we think you will see us before you see our
+valley. Let all the brethren and sisters cheer up their hearts and know
+assuredly that God has heard and answered their prayers and ours and
+led us to a goodly land, and our souls are satisfied therewith. Brother
+Benson can give you many particulars that will be gratifying and
+cheering to you which we have not time to write, and we feel to bless
+all the Saints. In behalf of the council. Willard Richards, Clerk.
+Brigham Young, President.
+
+This morning, Elders Pratt and Sherwood commenced surveying the city
+to lay it off in lots but finally concluded to wait until the chain
+could be tested by a standard pole which will have to be gotten from
+the mountains. Some of the brethren are preparing to make moulds
+for adobes. In the evening, Elder Kimball's teams returned from the
+mountains with some good house logs and poles for measuring, etc.
+The day has been very warm but the nights begin to be very cool. The
+northeast winds seem to prevail here at this season and coming from the
+mountains of snow are cold when the sun is down. After dark President
+Young sent for me to come to his wagon and told his calculations about
+our starting back. He wants me to start with the ox teams next Monday
+so as to have a better privilege of taking the distances, etc. He
+calculates the horse teams to start two weeks later, and if the first
+company arrives at Grand Island before the other comes up to wait for
+them there, kill and dry buffalo, etc. He wants the roadometer fixed
+this week and Elder Kimball has selected William King to do the work.
+
+Tuesday, August 3
+
+Morning fine, but cool. Elder Carrington starts for the mountains to
+look for limestone. During the day I went and bathed at Bullock's
+bathing place in one of the warm sulphur springs. I found the effects
+very refreshing and beneficial. Spent most of the day making a table of
+distances, etc. The day very hot.
+
+Wednesday, August 4
+
+This morning William A. King has commenced making a new roadometer. The
+day very hot and close.
+
+Thursday, August 5
+
+Again at the roadometer, day very warm. J. C. Little and others
+have returned and report that they have been at the Utah Lake. As they
+went up they saw bodies of two dead Indians lying on the ground proving
+that there was one of each tribe killed the other day. They consider
+it to be about forty miles to the Utah Lake and on the east side is a
+handsome valley about six or eight miles wide. They are now convinced
+that the stream which runs a few miles below here is the Utah outlet,
+they having followed it to its junction with the lake.
+
+Friday, August 6
+
+The day very warm.
+
+Saturday, August 7
+
+Today William A. King has finished the roadometer which will now tell
+the distance for one thousand miles without keeping any account. About
+noon a very large whirlwind struck the south side of the camp forming
+a cloud of dust about twenty feet in diameter and making a loud roar.
+It carried a chicken up some distance, tore up the bowers, and shook
+the wagons violently in its course. It passed off to the northeast and
+seemed to break at the mountains. This morning fifteen of the brethren
+commenced building a dam a little above the camp so as to bring the
+water around and inside the camp. They finished early in the afternoon
+and we have now a pleasant little stream of cold water running on
+each side the wagons all around the camp. Where the water runs off or
+overflows the gutters, it soon becomes miry and cattle will sink a half
+a yard in mud. This is owing to the lightness of the soil, it being
+very light and rich. In the evening, many of the brethren went and were
+baptized in the dam by Elder Kimball for the remission of sins, Elders
+Pratt, Woodruff, and Smith attending to confirmation. I went and was
+baptized amongst the rest. It has been recommended for all the camp to
+be baptized and this evening they have commenced it.
+
+Sunday, August 8
+
+Morning cloudy with strong northeast wind. The brethren have resumed
+baptizing and a number have obeyed the ordinance both male and female.
+At ten o'clock, a meeting was held in the bowery and instructions given
+to the brethren. At two o'clock, sacrament was administered and 110 of
+the brethren selected to make adobes. Wrote a letter for Heber to Elder
+Martin and others.
+
+Monday, August 9
+
+At eleven o'clock, Brannan, Captain James Brown and several others
+started for San Francisco. Elder J. C. Little accompanies them to
+Fort Hall. I spent three hours taking observations with the barometer
+with Elder Pratt to ascertain the height of the land on the creek above
+the city. Ensign Peak, etc. The twelve had decided on a name for this
+place and a caption for all letters and documents issued from this
+place, which is as follows: Salt Lake City, Great Basin, North America.
+
+Tuesday, August 10
+
+This morning, President Young and Kimball have gone to the adobe yard
+to commence building some houses in that region. They have already got
+many good logs on the ground. Colonel Markham reports that in addition
+to the plowing done week before last, they have plowed about thirty
+acres which is mostly planted, making a total of about eighty acres.
+The plowing ceased last week and the brethren are now making adobes,
+hauling logs, etc. Elder Sherwood continues surveying the city. Tanner
+and Frost are setting wagon tires and have set fifty-two today. The
+brethren who went to the lake on Monday to boil down salt have returned
+this evening and report that they have found a bed of beautiful salt
+ready to load into wagons. It lies between two sand bars and is about
+six inches thick. They suppose they can easily load ten wagons without
+boiling. I have received from Elder Kimball a pair of buckskin pants,
+as a present I suppose, but as I have on similar occasions been
+branded with the idea of receiving a great many kindnesses without
+consideration, I will for this once state a little particular on the
+other side the question. I acknowledge that I have had the privilege of
+riding in a wagon and sleeping in it, of having my victuals cooked and
+some meat and milk, and occasionally a little tea or coffee furnished.
+My flour I furnished myself. I have had no team to take care of. Howard
+Egan has done most of my washing until a month ago in consideration of
+the privilege of copying from my journal, using my desk, ink, etc. The
+balance of my washing I have hired. Now what have I done for Brother
+Kimball? Am I justly indebted on this journey? Answer: I have written
+in his journal 124 pages of close matter on an average of 600 words
+to a page, which if paid at the price of recording deeds in Illinois
+would amount to over $110.00. I have collected the matter myself,
+besides writing letters, etc. This has been for his special benefit.
+I have kept an account of the distance we have traveled for over 800
+miles of the journey, attended to the measurement of the road, kept
+the distances from creek to creek and from one encampment to another;
+put up a guide board every ten miles from Fort John to this place with
+the assistance of Philo Johnson. I have mapped some for Dr. Richards
+and keeping my own journal forms the whole benefit to be derived by
+my family by this mission. I have yet considerable to write in Elder
+Kimball's journal before I return. I am expected to keep a table of
+distances of the whole route returning from here to Winter Quarters and
+make a map when I get through, and this for public benefit. Now how
+much am I considered to be in debt, and how often will it be said that
+I was furnished by others with victuals, clothing, etc., that I might
+enjoy this journey as a mission of pleasure. I have spent most of this
+day calculating the height of this spot above the level of the sea for
+Elder Pratt.
+
+Wednesday, August 11
+
+Early this morning, a large company of the Utah Indians came to
+visit the camp and it was with difficulty they could be kept outside
+the wagons. There are few of them who have any clothing on except
+the breech clout and are mostly of low stature. They have scarcely
+anything to trade and not many women and children with them. They are
+camped about three miles north of west and supposed to be going north
+hunting. One of them was detected stealing some clothing which lay
+on the bushes to dry, but was made to leave it. When they found they
+were not permitted inside the circle, they soon moved off to their
+camp. The brethren have commenced laying the adobe wall today which
+will be twenty-seven inches thick and nine feet high. The adobes are
+18 inches long, 9 inches broad and 4½ inches thick. The brethren in
+camp have finished the skiff and launched her in the creek to soak.
+About five o'clock, a child of Therlkill's was found in the creek
+south of the camp drowned. Various efforts were made to restore it but
+unsuccessfully. The child was about three years old and its parents
+mourn the accident bitterly. The day has been very hot, but as usual,
+at sundown we have a strong, cool wind from the northeast.
+
+Thursday, August 12
+
+Spent the forenoon with Elder Pratt in taking observations to ascertain
+the height of the temple block above the Utah outlet which he found to
+be sixty-five feet. The altitude one mile up the creek above the temple
+block is 214 feet and the altitude of the temple block above the level
+of the sea is 4,300 feet. The latitude 40° 45' 50". The blacksmiths are
+very busy shoeing oxen and there is prospect that the ox teams will
+start back on Monday or Tuesday. The soldiers are getting dissatisfied
+at being kept here so long from their families and yesterday several of
+them left the camp secretly to go to Winter Quarters and this morning
+others are gone, but it is probable that President Young knows nothing
+of it yet although about a dozen are already gone and others are
+preparing to follow them. On Tuesday President Young laid a foundation
+for four houses; Elder Kimball four, Colonel Markham one, Dr. Richards
+one, and Lorenzo Young two, and today Dr. Richards has laid the
+foundation of another, George A. Smith two and Wilford Woodruff two,
+making a total of seventeen houses mostly fourteen feet wide and from
+twelve to seventeen long. Elder Kimball has his house four logs high.
+
+Friday, August 13
+
+Spent the day mostly writing. The brethren have got 130 bushels of salt
+with twenty-four hours labor.
+
+Saturday, August 14
+
+Started at 8:40 in company with a number of others for the Salt Lake.
+We arrived at three o'clock and estimated the distance twenty-two
+miles. We all bathed in it and found the reports of those who had
+previously bathed in no ways exaggerated. We returned back to the river
+where we arrived at eleven o'clock at the beginning of a light thunder
+shower. There is no pure fresh water between the river and the lake.
+
+Sunday, August 15
+
+President Young preached on the death of little children, etc. Evening
+the company composing those who are returning with the ox teams met
+and voted that Shadrach Roundy and Tunis Rappleyee be captains. They
+received instructions to start tomorrow and travel leisurely to Grand
+Island and there wait for the last company of horse teams. J. C.
+Little and company returned yesterday from Utah Lake, and this morning
+the exploring company returned.
+
+Monday, August 16
+
+Spent most of the day fixing the roadometer, also finished marking the
+distances, camping places,, etc., on Dr. Richards' map from Devil's
+gate to Little Sandy. Evening took the wagon in company with Jackson
+Redding and Howard Egan to the warm spring to try the roadometer. We
+found the distance to be one and a half miles. Most of the company of
+ox teams have started today for Winter Quarters. They will go to the
+canyon and wait there till morning. After dark, Elder Kimball called a
+number of us together in the tent and each one present selected a lot
+for himself and family. I had previously selected lots 1, 7 and 8 on
+block 95, but President Young broke into our arrangements and wished 7
+and 8 reserved, consequently I made choice of lots 1, 2 and 3 on block
+95.
+
+Tuesday, August 17
+
+Started out at 8:10 and found the distance to the mouth of the canyon
+five miles, the difference arising from making a road across instead
+of following the first one. One and three quarters of a mile farther
+arrived at where the company had camped for the night and found them
+all ready to start, only waiting for President Young to arrive and give
+some instructions, but he sent word he should not come and we started
+forward. Elders Kimball and Richards soon overtook the company, gave
+some instructions, then returned and the company moved on. On arriving
+at Birch Spring, we encamped for the night, having traveled thirteen
+and a half miles. There is considerable danger of cattle miring near
+the spring and several have already had to be pulled out. This company
+consists of seventy-one men with thirty-three wagons. After camping,
+the brethren were called together by Captain Roundy for the purpose
+of organizing. He briefly stated the manner of the organization of
+the camp when we left Winter Quarters and it was unanimously voted to
+organize after the same pattern which was done as follows:
+
+1st Division
+
+  1st Ten
+
+  Joseph Skeen, Captain
+  Wm. Burt
+  Artemas Johnson
+  James Dunn
+  James Cazier
+  Joseph Shipley
+  Geo. Cummings
+  Samuel Badham
+  Thos. Richardson
+  Roswell Stevens
+
+  2nd Ten
+
+  Zebedee Coltrin, Captain
+  Wm. Bird
+  Chester Loveland
+  Josiah Curtis
+  Lorenzo Babcock
+  John S. Eldridge
+  Samuel H. Marble
+  Horace Thornton
+  Geo. Scholes
+
+  3rd Ten
+
+  Francis Boggs, Captain
+  Geo. Wardle
+  Sylvester H. Earl
+  Seeley Owens
+  Almon M. Williams
+  Clark Stillman
+
+Tunis Rappleyee, Captain of 1st Division. James Cazier Captain of Guard
+in 1st Division.
+
+2nd Division
+
+  1st Ten
+
+  Jackson Redding, Captain
+  Robert Biard
+  Wm. Carpenter
+  Benj. W. Rolfe
+  Henry W. Sanderson
+  Thos. Cloward
+  Bailey Jacobs
+  Lisbon Lamb
+  John Pack
+  Wm. Clayton
+
+  2nd Ten
+
+  John H. Tippets, Captain
+  Lyman Stevens
+  Francis T. Whitney
+  Lyman Curtis
+  James Stewart
+  John S. Gleason
+  Chas. A. Burke
+  Myron Tanner
+  Wm. McLellan
+  Rufus Allen
+  Norman Taylor
+
+  3rd Ten
+
+  Allen Cumpton, Captain
+  Franklin Allen
+  John Bybee
+  David Garner
+  J. Averett
+  Harmon D. Persons
+  John G. Smith
+  Solomon Tindal
+  Philip Garner
+  Chas. Hopkins
+  Barnabas Lake
+
+  4th Ten
+
+  Andrew J. Shoop, Captain
+  Albert Clark
+  Francillo Durfee
+  James Hendrickson
+  Erastus Bingham
+  John Calvert
+  Loren Kenney
+  Daniel Miller
+  Benj. Roberts
+  Luther W. Glazier
+  Jarvis Johnson
+  Thos. Bingham
+
+Shadrack Roundy, Captain of 2nd Division. John Gleason, Captain of
+Guard.
+
+The soldiers were numbered with the 2nd Division, 3rd and 4th tens.
+
+Those who have horses to ride were then numbered and their duty pointed
+out, which is to lead the way and fix the road where it needs it; look
+out camping places; drive the loose cattle and hunt for the camp. Their
+names are as follows: John Pack, Captain, Samuel Badham, Francillo
+Durfee, Benj. Roberts, Thomas Bingham, James Hendrickson, John
+Eldridge, R. I. Redding, Seeley Owens, Barnabas Lake, Wm. Bird,
+Daniel Miller, James Cazier.
+
+Wednesday, August 18
+
+We had a little rain this morning and the air very cool. We started at
+8:00 a.m. and found the road rough indeed. When ascending the mountain
+from Brown's Creek, most of the teams had to double, it generally
+requiring six yoke of oxen to bring up an empty wagon. The descent is
+also very rough and especially where the road crosses the dry creek
+which is a great many times. Canyon Creek appeared rougher than when we
+first went up it and it took till near night to get to the end of the
+creek, having traveled only fifteen and three quarters miles during the
+day.
+
+Thursday, August 19
+
+We got started again about 8:00 a.m., all except Chas. A. Burke. One of
+his oxen was missing. Before noon several of the loose cattle gave out
+through being over driven. We arrived and camped on Red Mountain Creek
+at six o'clock, having traveled sixteen and a quarter miles. The day
+has been very hot but nights are very cold.
+
+Friday, August 20
+
+Morning very cold. Started out at seven and traveled till 12:30, the
+day being cool, then rested and baited an hour. At 1:30 proceeded again
+and arrived at Cache or Reddings Cave at 5:00 p.m., having traveled
+twenty and a half miles, but it was nearly seven o'clock before the
+company arrived.
+
+Saturday, August 21
+
+Started at 7:30 a.m. and traveled till 12:00 then baited an hour. We
+found Bear River not over fifteen inches deep. We camped on Sulphur
+Creek at five o'clock having traveled sixteen and a half miles and
+after camping I went with the brethren to fill their tar buckets at
+the oil spring. We followed a wagon trail made by a part of Hasting's
+company last year about a mile and found the spring situated in a
+ravine a little to the left of the road just at the edge of a high
+bench of land. The ground is black over with the oil for several rods
+but it is baked hard by exposure to the sun. It is difficult to get
+the clear oil, most of it being filled with dust and gravel. It smells
+much like British oil and is said to do well for greasing wagons. John
+Gleason has found a coal bed in the edge of the mountain across the
+creek. The coal looks good and burns freely.
+
+Sunday, August 22
+
+Many of the cattle were missing this morning but after much search were
+found about four miles southwest from camp. We started at nine o'clock
+and traveled till one, then halted an hour at the copperas spring. Most
+of the wagons halted at the spring four miles back. The water of this
+spring is not bad, cattle drink it freely. At two o'clock we began to
+ascend the ridge and at five formed our camp near the Muddy fork having
+traveled seventeen and three quarters miles, the day cool and cloudy.
+
+Monday, August 23
+
+We started early this morning and arrived at Fort Bridger at one
+o'clock. We found the grass pretty much eaten off and only stayed an
+hour and a half while some of the brethren traded some, then went
+on eight miles farther and camped on a stream two rods wide, having
+traveled twenty-one and a half miles, the day very cool.
+
+Tuesday, August 24
+
+This morning many of the cattle had strayed several miles from camp
+which prevented our starting till eight o'clock. We traveled eight and
+a half miles, then halted an hour on Black's Fork. We proceeded again
+and had a pretty heavy thunder shower and arrived at Ham's Fork at
+5:20, then camped for the night, having traveled twenty-three miles.
+Most of the wagons did not arrive till nearly night, but we had no
+place to camp short of this and here we have good range for cattle.
+
+Wednesday, August 25
+
+We traveled today twenty-three miles and camped on Green River. We
+found several places where the road is shortened some, but it is yet
+about sixteen miles from water to water.
+
+Thursday, August 26
+
+Started at eight o'clock and went on to the Big Sandy and before the
+majority of the company arrived, E. T. Benson and escort came up
+with letters from the companies. They say there are nine companies
+between here and the Platte with 566 wagons and about 5,000 head of
+stock. They report the companies well and getting along tolerably fast,
+some they expect we shall meet within three days. After eating they
+proceeded on. After sundown a large party of mounted Indians came up,
+and camped on the opposite side the river. They have been on the Sweet
+Water hunting and are said to be of the Shoshone tribe.
+
+Friday, August 27
+
+Many of the brethren traded sugar, powder, lead, etc., to the Indians
+for robes and skins and meat. We started soon after seven and traveled
+to the crossing of the Big Sandy. Then after halting an hour, continued
+to the Little Sandy, making twenty-five and a quarter miles today, but
+it was nine o'clock before some of the wagons arrived. The feed is
+mostly eaten up on the creeks near the road and there is none except on
+the banks of streams. Bailey Jacobs killed a large antelope which is a
+matter of rejoicing as we are nearly out of bread stuff and had little
+meat for several days. We started back from the valley with 8 lbs. of
+flour, 9 lbs. of meal and a few beans each, and we have to depend on
+getting meat on the road for the rest. I was told there were 25 lbs. of
+flour put up for me, but I find it is not so.
+
+Saturday, August 28
+
+Started at eight o'clock and traveled till half past three before
+halting when we arrived at the crossing of the Pacific creek and halted
+to camp for the night having traveled twenty-three miles. There is no
+grass from Little Sandy to this place except a very little on Dry Sandy
+but the water there has some taste of alkali and teams do not like it.
+Here there is considerable grass along the creek and very good water
+but no wood except wild sage. We had a heavy thunder shower about four
+o'clock and considerable hail. It was dark before the ox teams arrived.
+Some of the men had killed a buffalo a few miles back, but it is very
+poor.
+
+Sunday, August 29
+
+It was decided to remain here today to rest the teams, but our ten
+obtained leave to go on to Sweet Water, expecting to meet the company,
+and after reading the letter of instructions from the council to
+this camp, my wagon proceeded on slowly. At the Springs, we saw
+an aged Indian squaw near the road dwelling in a shelter composed
+merely of wild sage and apparently dependent on passing emigrants
+for subsistence. She is doubtless left to perish on account of age
+and infirmity, but it is likely she will live some time on what she
+receives from those who pass by. When we arrived near the summit of the
+dividing ridge or south pass, two Indians rode towards us and motioned
+for us to stop. Not seeing the other wagons coming after, we stopped to
+wait for the wagons and the Indians soon arrived. They made signs that
+a large party of them were over the mountain north and they wanted to
+"swap." While they were conversing a number more rode over the ridge
+and soon after a still larger number. About this time the wagons came
+in sight and when the brethren saw so many Indians they were alarmed.
+John Pack rode back to the main camp to get some of the brethren to
+come up, but J. R. said he would not budge a foot. The brethren
+behind were much alarmed, some expecting to be scalped and one W. Carr
+ran and hid himself in the sage bushes. No one returned with John Pack
+but Norman Taylor and the wagons proceeded towards us. In the meantime,
+after learning the object for which the Indians sought us, that none of
+them were armed except two, and by a certificate that the first visitor
+was a Shoshone chief, Brother Lamb and myself signified that we would
+trade with them and soon some of them returned with antelope, buck and
+elk skins and robes to trade. I traded some balls and a little powder
+for one robe, one elk skin, two buckskins and nine antelope skins and
+a pair of moccasins. Lamb bought five antelope skins. While we were
+trading, the other wagons arrived and also commenced trading. The
+Indians, about sixty in number, about twenty of them boys, all mounted,
+seemed highly pleased to trade with us which we did mostly through the
+chief. By request of the chief, I gave him a certificate stating that
+he appeared friendly and wanted to trade with the whites, etc. The
+chief gave us a very strong invitation to go to their camp to trade and
+made signs that they would feed us well and we should sleep with them.
+I answered him by signs that we should camp when we arrived where the
+road crossed the Sweet Water but they were very anxious to have us then
+turn off the road and camp. After we started, the chief came up and
+wanted to swap a good mule for my spy glass but I refused. I had let
+him look through it and he seemed very wishful to try it. When they saw
+we were determined to go on, they left us and returned to their camp
+while we pursued our journey to the first crossing of Sweet Water where
+we arrived and camped at six o'clock, having traveled fourteen miles.
+
+Monday, August 30
+
+This morning the cattle belonging to the camp behind came to us early,
+having strayed away. John Pack and Bailey Jacobs went to drive them
+back and to trade some with the Indians. We calculated to go on about
+eleven miles but before we started, Father Eldridge came up with his
+wagon and said he expected Spencer's 1st 50 company up soon. We then
+concluded to stay here until they arrived and about three o'clock,
+their wagons began to cross the creek. I was glad to find Aaron and
+Loren Farr, and William Walker in this company with their families all
+well and in good spirits. From Sister Olivia, I received some articles
+sent by my family which were very acceptable indeed and made me feel
+grateful. This company all appear well and cheerful and are not much
+troubled on account of lack of teams. I spent the evening with Loren
+and their families. The balance of our camp arrived before dark.
+
+Tuesday, August 31
+
+Our camp except this ten has started on, but Brother Spencer has
+concluded to halt here today and I spent the day copying tables of
+distances for Loren and also gave him a plot of the city.
+
+
+
+September 1847
+
+Wednesday, September 1
+
+We bid farewell to Brother Spencer's company and proceeded on. After
+traveling about a mile, we met P. P. Pratt going to see Brother
+Spencer and to get some cattle. He says some of the back companies
+have lost many head and can scarcely move. A few miles farther we met
+the 2nd 50 of Spencer's company. We traveled till nearly dark and
+camped with the returning pioneers at the cold spring, having traveled
+twenty-two and a quarter miles. The day fine and pleasant. We find the
+grass pretty much eaten off all the way. John G. Smith was appointed
+captain of the 2nd division in place of Shadrach Roundy who returns.
+
+Thursday, September 2
+
+Started about eight o'clock and after traveling two miles passed
+Russell's company of 50 and about five miles farther we passed Elder
+Rich's 50 and G. B. Wallace's 50. They all agree to the health and
+prosperity of their companies but have lost many cattle and have had
+hard work to get along. We passed Captains Foutz and Hone on this long
+drive with their companies all well, but complaining much for lack of
+teams. I conversed some with Edward Hunter and Elder Taylor. Brother
+Hunter will give cash for some cattle if he can buy them. We arrived on
+Sweet Water at six o'clock but the ox teams did not get in till eight
+o'clock, having traveled twenty-four and a half miles. The evening was
+very cold, windy and like for rain. Brother Roundy returned back to the
+valley this morning, having met his family.
+
+Friday, September 3
+
+We started on this morning following the new road at the north side
+of the Sweet Water, the road sandy in places but much better than the
+old road. After traveling about two miles, we saw a lone buffalo about
+two miles to the south. John Pack and Lisbon Lamb went to try to kill
+him and finally succeeded, on which our ten halted and sent back a
+wagon for the meat which detained us about three hours, after which we
+proceeded again. A little before the road fords the river the second
+time, there is an alkali lake a little north from the road. We joined
+the company and also met J. B. Noble's company where the road
+joins the old one again. Brother Noble's company are all well and not
+so bad off for teams as some of the other companies. We proceeded on a
+few miles farther and met J. M. Grant with Willard Snow's 50 which
+is the last company on the road. Brother Grant had a child die last
+night and his wife is yet very sick and not much expected to recover.
+This company have lost many cattle and are so bad off for teams as not
+to be able to travel more than ten miles a day which would make it some
+day in October before they get through. We went on nearly two miles
+farther, then camped for the night near Bitter Cottonwood creek, having
+traveled fifteen and three quarters miles. Most of the company camped
+back with Brother Snow's company.
+
+Saturday, September 4
+
+We started late this morning and traveled over a very sandy road till
+five o'clock, then camped on Ravine Creek, having traveled sixteen
+miles.
+
+Sunday, September 5
+
+There being alkali springs near, we concluded to go to Independence
+Rock at which place we arrived about three o'clock having traveled
+twelve and a half miles. Soon after we camped, Lamb and Jacob Cloward
+went to chase some buffalo and succeeded in killing one. I walked over
+the rock and had some solemn meditations and felt to humble myself and
+call upon the Lord for myself and family, for this company, the twelve
+and all the companies on the road. Experience has taught me many maxims
+of late and I intend to profit by them. Be not hasty to promise, lest
+thy promise be considered worthless. Make not many promises without
+reflection, lest thou fail to fulfill them and it dampen the confidence
+of thy friend. If thou promise many things and regard not to fulfill
+them and it damp the confidence of thy friend, then be assured that thy
+friends will despise thy promises and have no dependence in them. Seek
+not to speculate out of a good brother.
+
+Monday, September 6
+
+This morning the cattle were found down the Sweet Water about six miles
+from camp which made it late before we started. While passing the
+alkali lakes, a number of the brethren filled the bags with saleratus.
+We found the road very sandy to Greasewood Creek and after that it was
+somewhat better. About three o'clock the wind began to blow very strong
+and cold and we had heavy rain for about two hours.
+
+We proceeded on and arrived at the Willow Spring a little before dark
+in the midst of a heavy shower of rain. Thomas Cloward left one of the
+old oxen sent back by Wallace on the road. It died before morning.
+All except our ten and William's stayed back at Greasewood Creek. We
+tried in vain to make a fire but finally went to bed wet and cold,
+having eaten nothing since morning. Some of the teamsters have only a
+light summer coat with them and they suffer considerably. We traveled
+twenty-one and a half miles today.
+
+Tuesday, September 7
+
+This morning our cattle were all missing and it still rains and snows
+very heavily. Pack and T. Cloward started early on foot to hunt the
+cattle but after following them over seven miles in the storm and
+seeing that they had kept on the road towards the Platte river, they
+returned to camp. It rained and snowed heavily till eleven o'clock at
+which time the balance of the camp arrived. John Pack asked the company
+to let us have some of their loose cattle to bring on our wagons till
+we overtook ours again, but the captains both generously refused for
+some cause or other. However, some of the brethren took their cattle
+out of their teams and let us have them and we moved onward. After
+traveling about thirteen miles we saw our cattle about four miles to
+the left of the road at the foot of a mountain. We halted and Lamb took
+one of the mules to fetch the cattle to the road. Soon after Pack and
+Jackson Redding came up and learning that we had found the cattle, they
+started to them to drive them to camp and Lamb being relieved, returned
+to the wagon. We harnessed up and arrived at the mineral spring about
+six o'clock, having traveled sixteen and a quarter miles. This spring
+has been represented as poisonous but if it is so, it must be in
+consequence of minerals under the water. The water has no bad taste
+till the cattle trample in it. It then becomes almost black as ink and
+this is probably what makes it poisonous.
+
+Wednesday, September 8
+
+We started at eight o'clock and arrived at the Upper Platte ferry soon
+after twelve o'clock. We found N. Jacobs and company there hunting.
+We forded the river and found it about two feet deep in the channel.
+We halted on the banks about two hours at which time the whole camp
+arrived. We then proceeded on. The main company went about five miles
+but we went till we found a good camping place in a grove of timber on
+the banks of the river where the road runs through, then halted for
+night, having traveled nineteen miles.
+
+Thursday, September 9
+
+This morning Norton Jacob's company joined us at eight o'clock and
+we moved forward. Found the road rough, it being cut up by the other
+companies in wet weather. We arrived on Deer Creek about sundown and
+camped for the night, having traveled twenty-two and a quarter miles.
+The day fine and very pleasant. Joseph Hancock killed an elk which the
+brethren packed to camp on horseback about sixteen miles.
+
+Friday, September 10
+
+We have had a strong southwest wind all night and the morning is
+somewhat cool. We started a little before eight o'clock and had good
+traveling. We saw many herds of buffalo but the hunters did not get
+any while passing. We arrived at the river A La Perle at three o'clock
+and camped for the night having traveled seventeen and a half miles.
+A while before dark, some of the men came in with a part of a buffalo
+which they killed. Lewis Barney also killed a young one which was
+considerably fat. The meat was all packed in on horses. One of the men
+killed a wolf out of which we got considerable grease for the wagons.
+It was decided to have a guard each night the remainder of the journey,
+every man to stand in his turn, four each night.
+
+Saturday, September 11
+
+Got up at twelve o'clock and stood guard till daylight. The morning
+very fine and pleasant. Three of the brethren arrived from the camp
+back and said that during the night before last the Indians had
+stolen sixteen or seventeen of their horses and they were in pursuit
+of them. We were detained some on account of several of the horses
+having rambled off, but about nine o'clock we started on and traveled
+to the La Bonte River, distance nineteen and a half miles. There are
+many buffalo around here also and although we have plenty of meat, the
+brethren continue to kill them. We find the feed eaten off bare almost
+every place we come to and it is difficult to find grass to sustain our
+teams.
+
+Sunday, September 12
+
+We traveled this day seventeen and three quarters miles and camped
+by Heber's Spring on Horseshoe Creek. We found the spring had ceased
+running but there was water in the creek a little north. The roadometer
+has broken down today over the same ground it broke as we went west.
+Our bread stuff is now out and we have to live solely on meat the
+balance of the journey. John Pack has got flour enough to last him
+through. We have all messed together until ours was eaten, and now John
+Pack proposes for each man to mess by himself. He has concealed his
+flour and beans together with tea, coffee, sugar, etc., and cooks after
+the rest have gone to bed. Such things seem worthy of remembrance for a
+time to come.
+
+Monday, September 13
+
+We fixed the roadometer this morning, then traveled to Dead Timber
+Creek, distance fifteen miles. Here we find good feed and plenty of
+wood and water.
+
+Tuesday, September 14
+
+Started at nine o'clock and traveled till about five, then camped on
+the Platte River, having traveled twenty-four and a quarter miles. In
+consequence of some things which have passed and some which at present
+exist, I have concluded to go on as fast as circumstances will permit
+to Winter Quarters and I intend to start tomorrow. Some have opposed
+it, but not with a good grace. However, I have no fears that the
+council will censure me when they know the cause. If they do, I will
+bear the censure in preference to what I now bear. Before dark Luke
+Johnson, William A. Empey and Appleton Harmon came up from Laramie,
+having learned from an Indian that wagons were near. They say that a
+party of Sioux warriors have got the brethren's horses, seventeen in
+number, on the Raw Hide, about eighteen miles north. They say that
+about fifty armed men might go and probably get them, but not fewer.
+The Sioux are at war with the Crows and Pawnees and reports say that
+there is a large party of the Pawnees a little down the river.
+
+Wednesday, September 15
+
+We started a little after eight, forded the Platte without any
+difficulty and at three o'clock concluded to stop for the night, having
+traveled twenty-one and a quarter miles over very sandy road. The ox
+teams have kept nearly up with us and it is evident they intend to keep
+with us or kill their teams, and being aware that if the teams are
+injured we shall be blamed for it, we have given up going ahead to save
+the teams.
+
+Thursday, September 16
+
+Today we traveled nineteen and a half miles over good road and camped
+near the river amongst good grass.
+
+Friday, September 17
+
+This morning Thomas Brown, Ezra Beckstead, Mathew Welch, Benjamin
+Roberts, David Perkins and William Bird started to go through to Winter
+Quarters in consequence of having no bread. We traveled nineteen and
+three quarters miles and camped again on the Platte. The road very good.
+
+Saturday, September 18
+
+Last night John Pack's gray horse was stolen from his wagon. He lays
+it to the brethren ahead and with Norton Jacobs and Joseph Hancock has
+heaped a pretty long string of severe abusive language on them which
+I consider to be premature, unjustifiable and wicked. Two Frenchmen
+came to the camp and said they were camped below on a trading excursion
+among the Sioux. Inasmuch as some of the brethren wanted to trade with
+them, it was concluded to move down opposite to them. We accordingly
+traveled four and a quarter miles then again camped on the banks of the
+river and the brethren bought a number of buffalo robes, etc. Norton
+Jacobs bought five robes for seven common calico shirts.
+
+Sunday, September 19
+
+The traders say they will move down the river today to where there are
+plenty of buffalo. Our camp also traveled ten and three quarters miles
+and camped a little below Chimney Rock. There are many herds of buffalo
+around and Lewis Barney killed one which will give us a little fresh
+meat. The weather has been very fine and warm for some days past. This
+evening there are some signs of stormy weather.
+
+Monday, September 20
+
+Today we traveled seven and a quarter miles, the day very hot. We
+turned off the road to camp at Rubidoos' request while they killed some
+buffalo. They gave us some very nice meat.
+
+Tuesday, September 21
+
+We have concluded to wait here until the balance of the company
+arrives. Afternoon went over the river and had a good feast on buffalo
+ribs with the Frenchmen. The victuals were cooked by a squaw but looked
+much cleaner than our men cook it. Evening it became cloudy and soon
+followed by cold rain which continued till two o'clock.
+
+Wednesday, September 22
+
+At one o'clock, I got up to stand guard and found the night extremely
+cold and unpleasant on account of rain. The morning is cloudy and cold.
+The wagons have not yet come in sight which makes us think there is
+something the matter with them.
+
+Thursday, September 23
+
+Today Jackson Redding and Sanderson went back to see if they could see
+the other wagons. They returned at night and said the company were
+within a few miles having been detained at Laramie to recover their
+horses, most of which they got. They state that news has come to the
+fort by a Sioux Indian that the twelve and their company had all their
+horses stolen at the Pacific Springs during a snow storm. The Sioux
+stole them supposing them to belong to the Shoshones. The man that
+brought the news stole seventeen but lost eight in the mountains, the
+remainder he brought to Laramie and the brethren there knew some of
+them and demanded them. He gave them up, at least all they could prove
+and four of the brethren started with them to meet the twelve. The
+Indian says there were nine of them who stole the horses.
+
+Friday, September 24
+
+We resumed our journey this morning and traveled thirteen and a half
+miles, then camped where the road runs close to the river. The weather
+is again fine and hot in the day time but the nights are cold and
+frosty. Joseph Hancock killed a buffalo cow and John Norton an antelope
+which will supply the company with a little meat each, most of whom are
+without.
+
+Saturday, September 25
+
+The day cloudy and some like for a storm. We made an early start and
+traveled to Crab Creek, distance twenty and a quarter miles then
+camped for the night. The land on both sides the river is literally
+spotted with vast herds of buffalo, but our hunters are not very lucky
+as yet. From the fact of there being so many buffalo in this region,
+we are inclined to believe we shall see but few lower down and this
+is probably the best chance we will have to lay in a supply to last
+us home. During the afternoon, Joseph Hancock killed a buffalo cow
+and Captain Rappleyee sent a wagon to fetch the meat to camp. When it
+arrived John Pack took the hind quarters and the best meat off the rest
+of the cow, together with all the tallow, then sent for Rappleyee to
+take what he had left and divide it amongst the company. When Rappleyee
+saw what he had done, he felt angry and Pack and he had some high words
+on the subject. Brother Pack's conduct has caused many unpleasant
+feelings against him among the brethren. He takes all the tallow he can
+lay his hands on, and all the best meat and has now got more than will
+serve him home while many of the rest have scarcely any and that of
+the poorest pieces. He has plenty of flour, meal, beans, tea, coffee,
+sugar, etc., while most of the camp are destitute of everything but
+meat, and while he continues to take the tallow and best of the meat
+there will be hard feelings against him. He has disgraced himself in
+the estimation of many within the past few days. I do not think I can
+ever forget him for his treatment of me, but I cherish no malice nor
+feelings of revenge, but I hope and pray that I may forever have wisdom
+to keep from under his power. There have been six or eight buffalo
+killed by the camp and it is intended to stay here tomorrow and try to
+get meat to last us through as it is not likely we shall have another
+privilege as good as this. Most of the camp now begin to feel that it
+is necessary for us to make our way home as fast as possible to save
+our teams and escape the cold rain and snowstorms.
+
+Sunday, September 26
+
+Many of the brethren are gone out hunting. The weather continues fine
+and warm. In the afternoon we had a strong northwest wind. During the
+day the second division killed more than enough meat to last them home,
+but were totally unwilling to let the first division have any although
+they killed none, not having but two or three guns in the division.
+This also has tended to increase the feeling of envy and bitterness
+which already exists too much. Thomas Cloward has manifested feelings
+and conduct worse than the general run of gentiles and unworthy of a
+saint. He seems to have drunk into Pack's spirit for they act very much
+alike.
+
+Monday, September 27
+
+Those of the first division who have no meat have concluded to move
+on a few miles to where there are more buffalo as they have mostly
+left here, but the second division will not move till they have dried
+their meat some. We went on three miles and then camped where there
+are plenty of buffalo over the river. Lisbon Lamb, Lewis Barney and
+John Norton volunteered to go and kill what meat they can for those who
+have none. They have got enough to last them through. It is said that
+our coming down here has given feelings but it is plain and evident
+that there are several men who will find fault and deal out wholesale
+censure whatever is done, and for my part I shall remember John Pack,
+Thomas Cloward, Norton Jacobs and Joseph Hancock for some time to come.
+Such little, selfish, unmanly conduct as has been manifested by them,
+is rarely exhibited except by the meanest classes of society. A man who
+will openly and boldly steal is honorable when compared with some of
+their underhanded conduct. During the day the brethren killed five cows
+and one bull which are considered sufficient to last the first division
+home.
+
+Tuesday, September 28
+
+We waited till after nine o'clock for the second division to come up
+but not being yet in sight we moved onward, traveled seventeen and a
+half miles, then camped on Sand Hill Creek about a mile from the river.
+We have seen more buffalo today than I ever saw in one day, supposed to
+be not less than 200,000. We had some trouble to make a road through
+them safely. We also saw two horses with the herd. Jackson Redding went
+to try and catch them but found them perfectly wild.
+
+Wednesday, September 29
+
+We got an early start this morning and traveled till four o'clock,
+distance twenty and a quarter miles. We camped near the river in high
+grass. The road has run close to the river all day except a few miles
+beyond Castle Creek and although the ground is perfectly dry, it is
+very rough, it having been cut up in wet weather. Watch and Wolfe
+Creeks had abundance of water in them, as much as when we went up.
+Castle River was about a foot deep. We have not seen many buffalo today
+but after we camped, John Norton shot two at one shot. L. Barney also
+killed a young cow. The weather is yet fine and very warm.
+
+Thursday, September 30
+
+This day we traveled only sixteen and a quarter miles, then camped a
+quarter of a mile east of Rattlesnake Creek on the banks of the river.
+In this creek, there is still a very heavy current of water running. It
+appears that some of the brethren left their fires burning this morning
+and the prairie has caught fire and is still burning furiously.
+
+
+
+October 1847
+
+Friday, October 1
+
+This morning I wrote a short letter and left it in a post for the
+company behind. We traveled twenty miles and camped on Bluff Creek. The
+day fine and very warm.
+
+Saturday, October 2
+
+This morning we calculated to travel eleven miles, but on arriving at
+the North Bluff fork, we found no grass and were compelled to continue
+on. We traveled till the road strikes the river and some grass, then
+camped, having traveled eighteen and a half miles. Three buffalo have
+been killed today and there are considerable in this region. Two of the
+oxen gave out and had to be left on the road.
+
+Sunday, October 3
+
+This morning we traveled four and a quarter miles, then camped opposite
+some islands where there is pretty good feed and willows. The day has
+been exceedingly warm and the brethren have dried a good quantity of
+meat. Considerable anxiety and feeling has originated in the breasts
+of two or three brethren in consequence of a rumor being circulated
+which deeply concerns one individual but it is not known whom. In the
+evening, a strong north wind blew up which made it turn very cool.
+
+Monday, October 4
+
+Cool and pleasant. We traveled twenty and three quarters miles and
+found that the last company have made a new road near the bluffs to
+avoid a very bad slough. We went a little on the old road and then
+struck across to the new road but had considerable difficulty in
+crossing the slough. We camped beside a small lake of not very good
+water and several miles from timber.
+
+Tuesday, October 5
+
+Pleasant day. We traveled nineteen miles, then turned off the road
+about a half a mile to camp near a small bunch of timber. The brethren
+have killed a good many buffalo today. They are very plentiful here,
+and wolves abundant.
+
+Wednesday, October 6
+
+The largest part of the company again concluded to tarry a day again
+although there is little feed here. Some determined to go on a piece
+and amongst the rest, I felt more willing to go on than to tarry.
+Accordingly eleven wagons started, viz. Jackson Redding, William
+A. Empey, Lewis Barney, Roswell Stevens, Cummings, Joseph Hancock,
+H. W. Sanderson, John Pack, Thos. Cloward, Zebedee Coltrin and
+Norton Jacobs. We traveled seventeen and a half miles and then turned
+off the road about a half a mile to camp.
+
+Thursday, October 7
+
+We started a little before 10:00 a.m. and traveled till nearly dark and
+had then to run over a mile from the road to camp. We traveled nineteen
+and a quarter miles. Wind very strong from the north and a very cold
+day.
+
+Friday, October 8
+
+Just as we started this morning, twelve or fifteen Indians were seen
+running over the river towards us. They soon came up to the wagons
+which were somewhat scattered and although they shook hands, they
+showed savage hostility. Four of the oxen were not yet yoked up; these
+they drove off from the wagons which now began to draw together.
+They soon satisfied us that they were bent on robbing us and without
+ceremony took Jack Redding's horse from behind the wagon. Lamb went to
+take it from them and seized the lariat which another immediately cut
+with his knife. Lamb then got on the horse, but no sooner on than two
+Indians pulled him off and marched off with the horse. They stole Jack
+Redding's knife out of its sheath and one from John Pack. They also
+tried to get Jack off the horse he was riding, but he kept his seat.
+They tried Skeen's horse but he kicked one of them over. The Indians
+then tried to get the men out of their wagons so that they might get
+in and plunder, but every man kept in his wagon to guard it and we
+concluded to turn about and go back to the company. We accordingly
+started and the Indians turned back towards the timber with the horse,
+four oxen, two knives and a sack of salt. After traveling back about
+six miles, we met the company, told the story and bore their slang and
+insults without saying much, but not without thinking a great deal.
+The whole company were then formed in two lines. All the arms were
+loaded and each man that could raise a gun was ordered to walk beside
+the wagons, the horsemen to go ahead. We then proceeded on and when
+we came opposite to where we met with the Indians, the horsemen went
+down and found the oxen where we left them. They brought them and we
+traveled till dark, then camped near the river, having traveled five
+and a quarter miles from last night, exclusive of the distance we went
+back. A strong guard was placed around the cattle and camp and kept up
+through the night. Many hard speeches have passed among the brethren,
+such as "damned hypocrites," "damned liars," "mutineers," etc., and
+most of those who started ahead are ordered to travel in the rear all
+the time. This savage, tyrannical conduct was one thing which induced
+some to leave and undertake to go through alone and more peaceably
+and it will still leave feelings of revenge and hatred which will
+require some time to cover up. Young Babcock shook his fist in Zebedee
+Coltrin's face and damned him and said he could whip him. For my part,
+I shall be glad when I get in more peaceable society, and I think I
+shall not easily be caught in such a scrape again.
+
+Saturday, October 9
+
+We have had no disturbance from Indians. We started at six o'clock and
+went on five miles to get better feed. We then halted for breakfast.
+The remainder of the day's travel was mostly over dog towns. A United
+States soldier came up to the wagons and went with us a few miles. He
+says there are ninety of them on the island surveying and looking out a
+place to build a fort. We traveled seventeen and a quarter miles today,
+then camped near a low bench of land where there is plenty of grass and
+water and willows for fuel. A number of the soldiers came over to camp.
+They say the Pawnees are perfectly enraged and savage and that the
+worst band of between four and five hundred are on the north side the
+Platte about forty miles below.
+
+Sunday, October 10
+
+Morning fine but cold wind. The captains called the camp together and
+asked whether we shall wait here three days or a week for the twelve,
+or shall we continue on to Winter Quarters. Thirty men voted to go on,
+seventeen voted to wait and the remainder did not vote. The majority
+having voted to go on, we started and traveled very slowly till about
+five o'clock, then turned off to the river to camp, having traveled
+sixteen miles. There are many new tracks of Indians on the sand bar,
+but we have seen none today.
+
+Monday, October 11
+
+Morning, cloudy and cold. We have had a little very cold rain and
+there is great appearance for more. We started on but it continued to
+rain heavily till near noon. The afternoon was fair but very cold. We
+traveled twenty-one and a quarter miles and camped amongst high grass
+close to timber. There is every chance for Indians tonight if any are
+near. The camp in general are much dissatisfied with the camping place.
+
+Tuesday, October 12
+
+This morning the weather was severely cold with strong wind. Some of
+the cattle were missing and the owners not going to hunt them till the
+rest were ready to start on, we were detained till eleven o'clock and
+then proceeded. We found plenty of water in Wood River but did not lose
+much time crossing. We took one of the late wagon trails and arrived
+on Prairie Creek a little before sundown, having traveled fifteen and
+three quarters miles. We have seen no Indians yet and all goes well but
+the cold weather.
+
+Wednesday, October 13
+
+Morning very cold indeed with strong northwest wind. We found the creek
+difficult to cross, it being soft and miry, but all soon got over
+safely and we proceeded on. The road is sandy about five or six miles
+on the bluffs and very crooked all the way. We arrived and camped on
+the Loup Fork at dark, having traveled twenty-one and three quarters
+miles. The day has been excessively cold.
+
+Thursday, October 14
+
+Much time was lost this morning in hunting for a place to cross the
+river. It was finally concluded to cross a mile higher up and we
+proceeded to the place. While going up we saw a company of horsemen and
+two wagons on the other side the river, which we soon recognized to be
+our brethren from Winter Quarters. All the wagons got over safely and
+camped on the hill, having traveled two miles. The company is a part of
+the old police going to meet the next company. We were gladdened with
+the news they bring from Winter Quarters.
+
+Friday, October 15
+
+The brethren of the police started early this morning to go on and meet
+the next company. They got well over the river but not without getting
+into the water to lift at the wagon wheels. It was late when we started
+on account of some oxen being missing and there are some who will not
+look for their cattle till all the rest are ready to start. We traveled
+till a little after three and camped on the banks of the Loup Fork,
+distance twelve and three quarters miles, day warmer.
+
+Saturday, October 16
+
+The night has been very stormy, there being a strong wind, rain, and
+very cold. We made an early start and by noon arrived at the mission
+station. We found the Pawnees busy gathering corn, probably nearly a
+thousand of men, women and children. They soon began to come to the
+wagons and their chiefs made inquiries by signs about the Chirrarots
+or Sioux. Some of the brethren gave them to understand that the Sioux
+were within five days of them. The chief immediately gave the word to
+the rest and in half an hour the squaws had loaded their corn on ponies
+and mules and then began to march towards the river. They show great
+fear of the Sioux. They were very anxious to have us camp with them
+tonight but we kept moving on. One of the wagons was upset crossing
+a ravine. Several of the brethren traded for corn. At three o'clock,
+we arrived and turned out the teams on Beaver River, having traveled
+seventeen and a quarter miles. Soon after we arrived, some of the
+Indians came up, having followed with the idea of trading. They have
+conducted themselves peaceably so far, but they are not to be trusted.
+In consequence of their following us, it was the feeling of most of the
+brethren to go on a few miles after dark. At 5:45 we started on and
+traveled till 8:30 being six and a half miles, then camped beside the
+lakes. Evening very fine and pleasant. We have traveled twenty-three
+and three quarters miles today.
+
+Sunday, October 17
+
+We started early and traveled to Looking Glass, then halted for
+breakfast. Morning windy and cold. After breakfast, we started on again
+and traveled till four o'clock, distance sixteen and a quarter miles,
+then camped at a point of timber near a creek or lake and not far from
+the Loup Fork.
+
+Monday, October 18
+
+Started at eight o'clock and traveled to Shell Creek distance eighteen
+and three quarters miles, day pleasant but cool.
+
+Tuesday, October 19
+
+The night was excessively cold and this morning there is considerable
+ice. We got an early start and traveled to where the road leaves the
+river and crosses to the Horn. At this place there is a liberty pole
+set up by some of the brethren. We have traveled today twenty-three and
+a quarter miles and we now find that the grass is all burned off ahead
+of us as far as we can see, probably to the Elk Horn. We are cheered by
+a view of the timber on that stream.
+
+Wednesday, October 20
+
+We started early and found the prairie all burned off to the Elk Horn
+except in small patches. We arrived at the Horn about noon and soon
+after commenced crossing where Hosea Stout and company crossed. The
+water was nearly three feet deep and the bottom somewhat soft, but we
+were soon all over without accident except John Pack, who broke his
+wagon tongue. We then had to make a road through high, strong grass for
+upwards of half a mile and found a very bad creek or slough to cross.
+When we again struck the main road, we found it good and started for
+the Papea where we arrived soon after dark, all except one wagon which
+was left a mile back. The evening cool and windy.
+
+Thursday, October 21
+
+This morning, Brother Empey, Lamb and myself started early accompanied
+by six horsemen and arrived in Winter Quarters a little before noon.
+I found my family all well except Moroni who is very sick and his
+mother is somewhat sick. Their circumstances are not good, but in
+other respects they have been prosperous for which I thank my God.
+There has been much sickness here and many deaths during the fall
+and many are now suffering for lack of some of the comforts of life.
+We have been prosperous on our journey home and have arrived in nine
+weeks and three days, including a week's delay waiting for the twelve
+and killing buffalo. Our health has been remarkably good, but we have
+lacked provisions, many of us having nothing but dry buffalo meat. I
+have succeeded in measuring the whole distance from the City of the
+Great Salt Lake to this place, except a few miles between Horse Creek
+and the A La Bonte River which was taken from the measurement going
+up. I find the whole distance to be 1,032 miles and am now prepared
+to make a complete traveler's guide from here to the Great Salt Lake,
+having been careful in taking the distance from creek to creek, over
+bluffs, mountains, etc. It has required much time and care and I have
+continually labored under disadvantages in consequence of the companies
+feeling no interest in it. The health of my family has encouraged me
+for all that is past and my secret gratitude shall ascend to Heaven for
+the unbounded kindness and mercies which the Almighty has continually
+poured upon them in my absence.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's William Clayton's Journal, by William Clayton
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 45051 ***
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of William Clayton's Journal, by William Clayton

-

-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with

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-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included

-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org

-

-

-Title: William Clayton's Journal

-       A Daily Record of the Journey of the Original Company of

-              "Mormon" Pioneers from Nauvoo, Illinois, to the Valley of

-              the Great Salt Lake

-

-Author: William Clayton

-

-Editor: Lawrence Clayton

-

-Release Date: March 2, 2014 [EBook #45051]

-

-Language: English

-

-Character set encoding: UTF-8

-

-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL ***

-

-

-

-

-Produced by the Mormon Texts Project. See

-http://mormontextsproject.org/ for a complete list of

-Mormon texts available on Project Gutenberg, to help

-proofread similar books, or to report typos.

-

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-</pre>

-

-

-<h1>William Clayton's Journal</h1>

-

-<p>A Daily Record of the Journey of the Original Company of "Mormon"

-Pioneers from Nauvoo, Illinois, to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake</p>

-

-<p>Copyright 1921 by Lawrence Clayton, trustee for the Clayton Family

-Association.</p>

-

-<p>Electronic edition produced by the Mormon Texts Project. To report

-typos or formatting errors, you can email mormontextsproject@gmail.com.</p>

-

-<p>Volunteers who helped with this book: Eric Heaps, Meridith Crowder, Ben

-Crowder, Tod Robbins, David Van Leeuwen, Lili DeForest, Jude Ogzewalla,

-Byron Clark.</p>

-

-<p>Version 1.0</p>

-

-<h2>Foreword</h2>

-

-<p>William Clayton was one of the remarkable characters of early Utah

-history. Born in the county of Lancashire, England, July 17, 1814,

-he was educated in one of the schools of his native town, and grew

-to manhood with a love for books and nature. An early convert of

-the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, he conducted one

-of the first companies from England to Nauvoo, and there became one

-of the trusted secretaries of the Prophet Joseph Smith. With the

-exodus from Nauvoo, he was Clerk of the Camp of Israel, and when the

-Mormon pioneers left Winter Quarters in April, 1847, he was appointed

-by Brigham Young one of the historians of that noted company. His

-journal of that memorable expedition over the plains is one of the

-most valuable diaries we have of that early period of western history.

-He kept careful account of the distances traveled each day, and his

-writings are full of descriptions of the country over which they

-traveled. He has noted the topography, the fauna and flora of the

-trail; and his descriptions of the activities of the company indicate

-a well trained intellect in social study. His language is simple and

-direct, and his care in keeping each day's distance and important facts

-of the journey show order and method.</p>

-

-<p>His hymn, "Come, come, ye Saints" takes its place as one of the most

-beautiful hymns of western history, for it is full of joyfulness,

-and expresses an optimism and faith in God that will always be an

-inspiration to the one who sings it. It indicates that William Clayton

-had much of the artistic in him, although we do know that he took a

-virile part in the activities of life.</p>

-

-<p>His journal should be read by all people who are interested in the

-west's development. It is certainly one of the distinct contributions

-of that early day, and shows that a man of strength of character wrote

-it. It will inspire many people to a greater love and regard for the

-work of the pioneers of Utah.</p>

-

-<p>Levi Edgar Young<br> Salt Lake City, Utah<br> April 1921</p>

-

-<h2>William Clayton</h2>

-

-<h3>Born in England, 1814; died in Utah, 1879</h3>

-

-<p>The Claytons of England originally came from France. During the time

-when William the Conqueror and King Harold were quarreling, a call came

-from the former for volunteers among his chieftains to go to war. A man

-named Robert was among those who responded. Robert was skilled in arms.</p>

-

-<p>After the Battle of Hastings in 1066, in which Robert rendered heroic

-service, William the Conqueror conferred upon him the English Manor of

-Clayton as a mark of merit. Robert was afterwards known as Robert de

-Clayton and Lord of the Manor of Clayton. From Lord Robert Clayton came

-all the Claytons of England and America and by genealogical research,

-the line has been brought down to the subject of this sketch.</p>

-

-<p>William Clayton was born July 17, 1814, in the village of Charock

-Moss, Township of Penwortham, County Palatine of Lancaster, England.

-He was the son of Thomas and Ann Critchley Clayton, who were born in

-Lancashire, England. William was the eldest of fourteen children. Three

-of these children died in infancy and were buried in England. Through

-the influence of the eldest son, the father, mother and surviving

-children joined the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and

-came to America. The mother died in Nauvoo, Illinois, July 15, 1848,

-and the father in St. Louis, Missouri, June 16, 1849. A brother James

-died in Winter Quarters, November 28, 1847. The remainder of his

-brothers and sisters survived the persecutions of mobs and the early

-privations of the Church and came to the valley of the Great Salt Lake

-with the pioneers of Utah.</p>

-

-<p>William Clayton first heard the Gospel preached in England by Heber

-C. Kimball and Orson Hyde. With his wife, Ruth Moon Clayton, whom he

-married in England, October 9, 1836, he listened to the teachings of

-these missionaries, but he was not easy to convert. His wife received

-the Gospel first, and many evenings had to be spent before William

-Clayton became a believer in "Mormonism." He was ordained a Priest

-December 25, 1837, and a High Priest, April 1, 1838, at which time he

-was appointed with Willard Richards, Counselor to Joseph Fielding who

-presided over the Church in Europe.</p>

-

-<p>September 8, 1840, he left England in the packet ship <em>North America</em>,

-arriving in New York, October 11, 1840, and in Nauvoo, November 24,

-1840. In this city, he became a trusted friend of the founders of

-the Church, so much so that on February 10, 1842, he was appointed

-secretary to Joseph Smith the Prophet. October 7, 1842, he became

-Temple Recorder and Recorder of Revelations. In 1842, he became

-Treasurer of the City of Nauvoo. These appointments are indicative of

-the zeal with which William Clayton served the Church throughout his

-life.</p>

-

-<p>What of the personal characteristics of our subject? As will appear

-from his portrait on the frontispiece, William Clayton did not tend

-to frivolity or mirth but rather to seriousness and earnestness. Yet

-he was witty and had a keen sense of humor. In the home he was not

-demonstrative; although he had great love for his home and family and

-provided well for their comfort. He was methodical, always sitting in

-his own arm chair, having a certain place at the table and otherwise

-showing his love for order, which he believed the first law of heaven.

-His person was clean and tidy; his hands small and dimpled. He wore

-very little jewelry but what little he had was the best money could

-buy. He would not carry a watch that was not accurate, and his clothing

-was made from the best material. His children remember him best in

-black velvet coat and grey trousers and, in cold weather, a broad-cloth

-cloak in place of overcoat.</p>

-

-<p>The man-timber in William Clayton came from sturdy trees. His character

-was above all littleness. He believed that what was good for him was

-good for all men, and that the measurement of our lives was based upon

-our daily conduct towards each other. To him that was God's standard.

-He believed in perfect equity in the adjustment of the affairs of

-life. Had he loved money, he could probably have had it because of his

-education and executive ability. But he cared little for material gain,

-centering his zeal in the pursuit of honor and right.</p>

-

-<p>William Clayton was honest and nothing to him could justify an untruth.

-He deplored waste or extravagance, yet he never withheld from a

-neighbor in distress, or from the widow or orphan. Many are those who

-knew his generosity. When his harvest was gathered, bushels of grain

-and fruit found place among those of scanty store. And many pairs of

-shoes and much warm clothing were given to comfort the needy. Nor was

-the homeless forgotten, but the orphan was given a home and joy by his

-own fireside.</p>

-

-<p>His religion was deeply rooted and nurtured by association with and

-testimony of an eye witness to the living God. His love for Joseph

-Smith was love seldom shown in man for man. Few men possessed stronger

-faith and courage. These qualities alone could inspire a man under

-heart-rending circumstances, to write such hymns of faith and comfort

-as "Come, come, ye Saints," and "The Resurrection Day."</p>

-

-<p>The record of William Clayton in Utah kept pace with that of previous

-years. His home was open always to his friends who loved to gather

-there for social hours. Civic welfare always interested him. He was a

-musician and played in the pioneer orchestra and that of the Salt Lake

-Theatre. He was a lover of community features and took part in dramatic

-functions.</p>

-

-<p>He was treasurer of Zion's Cooperative Mercantile Institution, Recorder

-of Marks and Brands, Receiver of Weights and Measures, and was

-Territorial Auditor. His love for education prompted many sacrifices

-and he tried hard to give his children the essentials of good schooling.</p>

-

-<p>He had a strong will, although a tender conscience. Cowardice had no

-place in him. Truly he could say, "My heart is fixed. I know in whom I

-trust." Joseph Smith believed that they should meet and associate in

-the Celestial Kingdom of God as they had here.</p>

-

-<p>William Clayton died December 4, 1879, in Salt Lake City. Services were

-held in the Seventeenth Ward Chapel at which his own funeral hymn was

-sung. He left a large posterity.</p>

-

-<p>Victoria C. McCune<br> Salt Lake City, Utah, June, 1921</p>

-

-<h2>Editor's Note</h2>

-

-<p>The descendants of William Clayton have in recent years formed

-themselves into an organization known as the Clayton Family

-Association. This book is offered to the public by the Association

-with the thought that a document of such faithful description and fine

-spirit would be welcomed by all people who might be interested either

-in the Pioneer Period of Western History or more particularly in the

-exodus of the Mormon people from Missouri to the valley of the Great

-Salt Lake. It is difficult to understand why the <em>Journal</em> was not

-published years ago and it seems to require somewhat of an apology

-that this interesting record should have remained so long unknown and

-be now brought out with considerable haste. In the effort to have it

-ready for distribution to the members of the Clayton Family Association

-on the anniversary of the birth of their forefather on July 17th,

-there has been a sacrifice of care and deliberation in the preparation

-of this first edition which is hoped the reader will overlook upon

-consideration of the facts. This lack of time and care will show itself

-more in the text than in any other particular. Much of the proof

-reading was done by the undersigned on board train between Salt Lake

-and California. To say the least, such surroundings are not conducive

-to the most finished work. It is hoped that this circumstance will also

-make the reader more tolerant when encountering mistakes in the text,

-obviously the result of hasty proof reading. At a later date a second

-edition will do better justice to the author of the <em>Journal</em> and will

-show more consideration for the fine taste of the reader.</p>

-

-<p>Lawrence Clayton<br> Salt Lake City, Utah, June, 1921</p>

-

-<h2>Table of Contents</h2>

-

-<p><a href="#Feb1846">February 1846</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-21">March 1846</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-22">April 1846</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-1">May 1846</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-2">June 1846</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-3">July 1846</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-4">August 1846</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-5">September 1846</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-0">November 1846</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-6">January 1847</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-7">February 1847</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-9">April 1847</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-11">May 1847</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-12">June 1847</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-13">July 1847</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-16">August 1847</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-18">September 1847</a></p>

-

-<p><a href="#calibre_link-23">October 1847</a></p>

-

-<h2 id=Feb1846>February 1846</h2>

-

-<p><em>Nauvoo, Illinois</em></p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, February 8</h3>

-

-<p>At the office all day packing public goods, evening at Farr's writing

-out a letter of instruction to trustees.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, February 9</h3>

-

-<p>At the office packing. At 3:30 the temple was seen on fire. Women

-carrying water.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, February 10</h3>

-

-<p>At the temple packing, also Wednesday 11th.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, February 12</h3>

-

-<p>At home preparing to move.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, February 13</h3>

-

-<p>Sent four loads of goods over the river. Loading and packing.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, February 14</h3>

-

-<p>Packing and seeking letters.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, February 15</h3>

-

-<p>Riding around to get teams and things together. Sent two teams over the

-river.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, February 16</h3>

-

-<p>Still loading teams, also Tuesday 17th.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, February 18</h3>

-

-<p>Got about ready to go over the river. Evening President Brigham Young,

-Heber C. Kimball, J. M. Grant and some of the pioneers came to hurry

-us over. N. K. Whitney also came in. We conversed together some. They

-state the brethren have made a perfect waste of food and property in

-the camp.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, February 19</h3>

-

-<p>This morning the ground is covered with snow. It is so windy they

-cannot cross the river. Continued to snow all day. Evening went to

-Elder Babbit's to supper with Elder Kimball. President Young was there,

-Backenstos, J. M. Grant and some others.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, February 20</h3>

-

-<p>The weather is very cold and windy. Impossible to cross the river.

-Spent the day running after things to get ready, fixing wagons and

-chopping fire wood.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, February 27</h3>

-

-<p>We have spent the past week waiting for crossing over the [Mississippi]

-river. It has been hard frost and much snow. This morning I concluded

-to start over the river and began early to send my teams. About noon I

-crossed with my family and then rested the teams and soon after went

-on to the camp where we arrived a little before four o'clock. Bishop

-Whitney concluded to stay at the river until morning because some of

-his teams could not get over. When we got to the camp we were received

-with joy and formed in the company of the band. The weather is still

-very cold especially during the night. The distance from Nauvoo to this

-place is called seven and a half miles.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, February 28</h3>

-

-<p>A.M. arranging my tents, etc. At twelve was sent for to council and

-about two the band was requested to go and meet bishop Whitney and his

-teams. We went and met him five miles from the camp. We played some

-time and then returned to the camp. President Young, Heber C. Kimball,

-P. P. Pratt, Orson Pratt and others accompanied us. At night played

-with the band.</p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-21>March 1846</h2>

-

-<h3>Sunday, March 1</h3>

-

-<p>A.M. preparing to march to the next encampment. At ten a lecture was

-given by Elder Kimball and about one the company proceeded to the next

-camp about four and a half miles, where we arrived in good season.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, March 2</h3>

-

-<p>Started this morning for another camp about eight miles where we

-arrived about five p.m., the roads being somewhat hilly and muddy. The

-band played at night. During the day the artillery company broke into

-our ranks several times and broke a number of our wagon boxes. At night

-they complained of us at headquarters, but after hearing our story the

-matter stood about right.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, March 3</h3>

-

-<p>Proceeded on our journey through Farmington about eight miles to a

-place where bishop Miller was encamped and arrived in good season. The

-band played at night.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, March 4</h3>

-

-<p>This morning we concluded to stay a day and fix up some wagons which

-were broken. A number of the citizens from Farmington came to the camp

-and gave a very pressing invitation for the band to go to Farmington

-and play some. Accordingly about three o'clock, the band started and

-arrived at Farmington about 4:30 p.m. We played at the principal hotel

-and then went to the school house and played till nearly dark. The

-house was filled with men and women, the leading people of the place.

-We then returned to the hotel where they had provided us with a good

-supper. They also gave us $5 in money. John Kay sang a number of songs.

-At eight o'clock we returned and when we left they gave us three

-cheers. When we arrived at the camp we met thirty of the guard just

-starting out to meet us. The President felt uneasy at our staying so

-long and was sending the men to protect us.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, March 5</h3>

-

-<p>Proceeded on our journey. Crossed the Des Moines river at Bonaparte and

-afterwards had a very bad road up the bluff for several miles which

-detained us until late in the afternoon. We stopped awhile to feed the

-band teams inasmuch as they had none this morning. We then started and

-went to the next camping ground, making the day's journey about sixteen

-miles.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, March 7</h3>

-

-<p>Proceeded about eight miles to a camp ground near to a Dr. Elberts

-where the band camped. President Young was behind and when he arrived

-he went on about eight miles farther. The band went to work splitting

-rails for corn and made before dark, about 1:30. In the evening Dr.

-Elbert and some others came to hear the band play. Kay sang some songs

-which pleased them.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, March 8</h3>

-

-<p>Waited for orders from headquarters. Many of the citizens came to hear

-the band play and gave us a very pressing invitation to go to Keosaugua

-and give a concert. About noon word came that we should follow on to

-the camp. We immediately struck tents and started and we arrived at

-the main camp about five o'clock. Some of the citizens from Keosaugua

-followed us waiting for an answer whether we would give a concert as

-soon as we arrived at the camp. I asked the President whether the band

-should go to Keosaugua to give a concert. He advised us to go and I

-immediately sent out the appointment and then we pitched our tents

-forming a line on the road opposite to the President's company.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, March 9</h3>

-

-<p>Spent the day chiefly preparing for the concert and attending on my

-family.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, March 10</h3>

-

-<p>The weather still continues fine. Spent the morning preparing for

-the concert and about one o'clock p.m. started in company with the

-brass band for Keosaugua. I rode in Elder Kimball's wagon with

-William Kimball, J. Smithies and Wm. Pitt. The distance from the camp

-to Keosaugua is about ten miles, the camp being at a place called

-Richardson's point. We arrived at Keosaugua about three o'clock and

-being requested we went through the town and played some. One of the

-grocery keepers invited us to play him a tune which we did. He then

-invited us in and offered to treat us to anything he had. We each took

-a little and then the next grocery keeper sent an invitation for us

-to play him a tune. We did so and he also gave us anything he had. A

-beer keeper next sent word that he did not want us to slight him and

-we went and played him a tune and then took some of his cake and beer.

-We then marched up to the Des Moines hotel near the court-house where

-we had ordered supper and after eating we went to the courthouse to

-prepare for the concert. At seven o'clock the house was crowded and we

-commenced, playing and singing till about 9:30. The audience seemed

-highly pleased and gave loud applause. About the close one of the

-citizens got up and said it was the wish of many that we should repeat

-the concert the following evening and he took a vote of all who wished

-us to go again. The vote was unanimous. We made nearly $25.00 clear of

-all expenses. We started back for the camp soon after ten and arrived

-about one o'clock all well and pleased.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, March 11</h3>

-

-<p>In the morning I reported to President Young our success and the

-request of the citizens of Keosaugua and he advised us to go again. We

-accordingly started about eleven o'clock. I again rode with William

-Kimball, Horace Whitney and James Smithies. When we arrived we were

-welcomed again with the same kind feelings as yesterday. Pitt had a

-severe chill all the way and when we got there it commenced raining

-and made it very unpleasant. The house was again filled but we only

-made $20.00 besides all expenses. We learned that there is a party of

-socialists there and they and the priests are much opposed to each

-other. We also learned that a man named McCully was in jail close by

-under sentence to be hung on the 4th of April for murdering a man and a

-child. I did not feel so well at the concert as on the night previous

-on several accounts. We started back between eleven and twelve and got

-to the camp about three o'clock.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, March 12</h3>

-

-<p>The band moved to better ground about one quarter of a mile farther.

-The heavy rains had made it very muddy and unpleasant, all our bedding

-and things being wet.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, March 13</h3>

-

-<p>Went hunting.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, March 14</h3>

-

-<p>Wrote a letter to Diantha.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, March 15</h3>

-

-<p>In camp all day.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, March 16</h3>

-

-<p>Some of the citizens of Keosaugua came again to request us to give

-another concert. We agreed to go tomorrow evening.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, March 17</h3>

-

-<p>Started for Keosaugua with Pitt, Hutchinson, Kay, Smithies and Egan.

-I took my music box and china to try and sell them. We arrived in

-good season and soon learned that the priests had been hard at work

-preventing the sectarians from coming to the concert, saying that it

-was an infidel move consequently there were not many present. We had

-far the best concert which lasted till nine o'clock. We then went over

-to the hotel, took supper and played for a private party till about

-three o'clock. We only cleared from both, about $7.00 over expenses but

-were well treated.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, March 18</h3>

-

-<p>It rained last night and this morning again and we almost concluded

-to go to Fairfield, but finally determined to return to camp. We

-visited with a Mr. Bridgman who treated us very kindly. Bought about

-eight bushels of beans and some articles for President Young and then

-returned to camp. It rained some again today. We got back about five

-o'clock. After dark Dr. Elbert came to see my china and said if I would

-take it over tomorrow he would buy it.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, March 19</h3>

-

-<p>Went to ask council whether I should go to sell my china. Saw Heber who

-advised me to go. A few of us started and soon met President Young who

-said we had better go back and go with the camp who were then starting

-on their way. We accordingly turned back our horses and struck tents in

-a hurry. At twelve o'clock we started on our journey. After traveling

-about six or seven miles we had to go up a very bad bluff which took

-us till five o'clock. President Young's company went ahead of us and

-camped three miles from the bluff. Some of our teams gave out and we

-only went about a mile from the bluff and camped in a little point of

-timber a little from the road. Our teams were very tired.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, March 21</h3>

-

-<p>We started early in the morning and soon came up with the main body of

-the camp. I rode ahead about three miles to hunt my cow. We did not

-have her last night being with the main camp. We traveled nine or ten

-miles and then rested our teams. We started again and traveled three

-miles farther where we found the President and Heber camped on the

-brink of a long bluff. We concluded to go to the other bank which we

-did and camped in a good place. In the evening the band went and played

-for the President and Heber and then went to a farmer's house at the

-owner's request about three quarters of a mile from camp to play for

-his family. He promised to give us some honey if we would play for

-him. We played about an hour and then left but neither saw nor heard

-anything of the honey. We learned afterwards, however, that Hutchinson

-had a pail under his cloak and got it full of honey after the rest had

-left the house and kept it to himself, very slyly.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, March 22</h3>

-

-<p>Started again and soon came to the Shariton bottoms which is a very low

-land for about four miles. The road was bad and it took us sometime to

-cross. While on the bottom Root and Davis came again. Root had asked

-permission of President Young to go back to his family some days ago

-but it seems things did not go to suit him and he followed his team

-again. It took sometime to go up the bluff. We had to let the teams

-down into the Shariton river by ropes and also helped them up again by

-the same means. Our company got over in good season but we concluded

-to camp after getting up the bluff as it would take till night for the

-whole to get up. I spent the day helping the teams till I was so sore

-and tired I could scarcely walk.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, March 23</h3>

-

-<p>In council with Brigham, Heber, and others. We found that Miller's

-company had gone still farther about eight miles instead of waiting

-till we overtook them so that we could organize. I wrote a letter to

-them saying if they did not wait or return to organize, the camp would

-organize without and they be disfellowshiped. We concluded to stay at

-this place a few days to buy corn to last to Grand river but we found

-corn scarce and 26c a bushel, the farmers having advanced on account of

-a disposition to speculate.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, March 24 and Wednesday, March 25</h3>

-

-<p>At the camp writing, etc. It rained considerably.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, March 26</h3>

-

-<p>Evening in council. Wrote a long letter to be sent to Emmet's company

-by John Butler and James W. Cummings. This morning wrote another

-letter to P. P. Pratt, Orson Pratt, George Miller telling them

-they must wait for us or come back to organize. The letters were sent

-by Smithies. He met them on the way and about noon P. P. Pratt,

-Orson Pratt, John Kay and G. Miller came into camp and at 1:00 p.m.

-the council met. The brethren plead that the charges in the letters

-were unjust. They had not striven to keep out of the way but had done

-all for the best. The whole camp accordingly was organized, A. P.

-Rockwood over 1st 50; Stephen Markham, 2nd 50; Young, 3rd 50; Howard

-E. Kimball, 4th 50; Charles C. Rich, 5th 50; Charles Crisman, 6th 50.

-Each fifty had also appointed a contracting commissary for the purpose

-of contracting for work and grain as follows: Henry Sherwood 1st 50;

-David H. Kimball 2nd; Wm. H. Edwards 3rd; Peter Haws 4th; Joseph

-Worthen 5th; Samuel Gully 6th. It was understood that I continue to

-preside over the band and in the absence of Brother Haws over the whole

-fifty. After this there was appointed for each fifty a distributing

-commissary to distribute feed in camp as follows: Charles Kennedy for

-1st 50; J. M. Grant 2nd 50; Nathan Tanner 3rd 50; Orson B. Adams

-4th 50; James Allred 5th 50; Isaac Allred 6th 50. The brethren then

-gave the following instructions for the whole camp with orders that

-same be observed hereafter, viz. No man to set fire to prairies. No man

-to shoot off a gun in camp without orders. No man to go hunting unless

-he is sent and all to keep guns, swords and pistols out of sight. There

-was then appointed a clerk for each fifty as follows: John D. Lee

-Young, 1st 50; John Pack 2nd 50; Lorenzo Snow 3rd 50; Geo. H. Hales 4th

-50; John Oakley 5th 50; A. Lathrop 6th 50. The council then adjourned

-to meet at Shariton Ford camp on Monday at 10 a.m. We then returned to

-our camp where we arrived just at dark.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, March 28</h3>

-

-<p>In camp making out forms for clerks of 50's and also copied letter to

-James Emmet.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, March 29</h3>

-

-<p>Making forms for clerks of 50's and felt quite unwell all day with bad

-cold.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, March 30</h3>

-

-<p>Met with the council. The guard and pioneers were divided and

-distributed amongst the several companies of 50's. It was also agreed

-that company No. 4 should go on to the next camp tomorrow and the

-remainder of the day following. Jackson Redding sold one of Keller's

-horses for one yoke of oxen, leaving me as bad off for teams as before.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, March 31</h3>

-

-<p>It was concluded we could not get ready to move until tomorrow.

-O. P. Rockwell arrived with the mail. I received a letter from

-Diantha and father. President Young received one from the trustees,

-one from Matlock and one from E. Pratt which I read in council. I was

-ordered to write an answer to the trustees' and Matlock's letter, but

-being late I left it till morning when I was quite unwell. I got two

-new teamsters, Levi Kendall and Swap.</p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-22>April 1846</h2>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, April 1</h3>

-

-<p>President Young also sent me two yoke of oxen, wagon, and Brother

-Jones, the owner, to assist me. We divided the load out of the spare

-wagons putting a yoke of oxen to each and about 11:00 started on our

-journey. Mother was very sick, and could not bear to ride. She walked

-all the way. I felt very unwell myself, having much pain in my limbs.

-The roads were bad, but we arrived in camp about 2:00 and got on good

-ground. After getting our tents fixed, fires made, etc., I went to

-wrestling, jumping etc., to try to get well. I over-exerted myself

-without any symptoms of perspiration and was so sick after I had to go

-to bed.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, April 2</h3>

-

-<p>I was very sick all day and unable to write the letters or meet with

-the council. O. P. Rockwell started back to Nauvoo with letters.

-One of the Brother Hales arrived to say to his brother who drives team

-for Pitt that his family is very sick and wants him to go back but

-we cannot spare the team and he says it is no use for him to go back

-without it. At night I wrote again to Diantha and sent it by Brother

-Hale who returns tomorrow.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, April 3</h3>

-

-<p>This morning it was decided to start early so as to get over the bad

-roads and also travel about fifteen miles. We had to send a wagon and

-team to fetch the eight bushels of corn which some of the band earned

-by playing last night. We started, however, about eight o'clock. The

-roads were very bad and when we had traveled about three miles it began

-to thunder and rain. The clouds gathered fast and it soon showed signs

-for heavy rain the whole day. We reached Bishop Whitney's camp about

-noon and rested our teams while the rest came up. We then started again

-in the heavy rain and bad roads and traveled about three miles to

-Bishop Miller's camp. We had a very bad bluff to rise and had to double

-teams to get up. On the top I met Heber camped. He selected a camping

-ground for us and advised us to go no farther. President Young has gone

-on six or seven miles. It was about 5:00 before all our teams got up

-and it rained heavily all the time. Mother walked all day again in the

-rain. I was very sick myself and unable to do anything. Yesterday the

-portion of the guard detailed to our company joined in with us, being

-Orvil M. Allen and eight men. They reported themselves destitute of

-everything and said they had lived a week on corn meal gruel, Stout and

-Hunter having made them serve as their body guard and used them very

-hard. I dealt out some of my own flour and bacon to them, determined

-to comfort them some if I could and not being willing to see anyone in

-our company suffer while I have anything left. It continued to rain all

-night very hard.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, April 4</h3>

-

-<p>This morning all our clothing, beds and bed clothing were drenched

-and it has continued to rain all day. I have been sick again all day

-especially towards night. I was so distressed with pain it seemed as

-though I could not live. I went to bed and put a bag of hot salt on my

-chest which seemed to give me some ease but I suffered much through

-the night, and it continued to rain until after midnight. We put an

-extra cover on our sleeping wagon, which kept out the rain. We have

-only slept in the wagon three nights but have slept under a tent on the

-wet ground. Haws' company are now formed with us, making our 50 nearly

-complete. A number of the company feel unwell on account of the rain

-and wet.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, April 5</h3>

-

-<p>This morning I feel a little better and the day is fine and pleasant.

-I have spent the day writing in this journal, having written from

-memory all since the date of March 9th. Some of the dates may not be

-correct but the matters recorded are true. It is now 1:00 p.m. There

-is a meeting at Elder Kimball's camp but I am sent here in this wagon

-to fetch up this record. My health is somewhat better for which I

-feel thankful. Elder Kimball says we had better not attempt to move

-tomorrow. We can get corn within ten miles from here and he will help

-us to means. We have now to lay in corn to last till we get to Grand

-River about fifty miles farther, there being no farms on the road. On

-Friday evening I appointed Charles Terry captain of my ten and Henry

-A. Terry clerk and my brother James to attend on my family agreeable

-with the orders of the President that I may be able to spend my time

-writing for the council and camp and attend councils. Elder Kimball

-instructed the captains of tens to call their companies together at

-4:00. Agreeable with this, the band assembled in front of my tent and

-administered the sacrament. Wm. F. Cahoon and Charles A. Terry

-officiated. I spoke about three quarters of an hour on various subjects

-touching on our journey and the policy we ought to use, etc. After I

-had done Elder Haws spoke on some subjects and the meeting adjourned.

-The captains then went over to Elder Kimball's camp about sending for

-corn. We concluded to send four teams for our 50, Captain Egan and Haws

-then went through the camp to see if they could obtain some money. Haws

-obtained $31.45 and Egan $9.00. I sent $14.00 by Egan for some. Wrote

-to Diantha.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, April 6</h3>

-

-<p>It has rained again the last night and continued to rain all day very

-heavily. The camp is very disagreeable and muddy. I spent the day

-reading. About 5:00 the clouds began to break and it looks more likely

-for being fair. In the evening Elder Kimball came over and the band met

-opposite Hutchinson's wagon and played some. After that the quadrille

-band met in my tent and played on the violins. All the time we were

-playing the lightning occasionally broke forth from the northwest and

-at 8:00 we dispersed just as the storm approached. Before I got to my

-tent the wind arrived and soon blew a perfect gale with heavy rain,

-hail, lightning and thunder. It continued for an hour and then abated

-some. All the tents in our company except mine and Pack's were blown

-down. The rain beat through the wagon covers and drenched the families

-and effects. It was the most severe storm we have experienced and with

-such wind it seems impossible to preserve our little clothing and

-provisions from being spoiled. But in the midst of all, the camp seems

-cheerful and happy and there are but few sick.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, April 7</h3>

-

-<p>This morning it is fair but cold and windy. The ground is frozen stiff

-and considerable ice. Many of the tents are still lying flat and

-everything around shows that the storm was very severe. A number of the

-band have no meat and some no flour nor in fact scarcely any provisions

-and several have had little, only what I have given them out of the

-stock I laid in for my family. I have this morning given the guard

-the bag of flour Miller left and a piece of pork and also a piece to

-Redding. The day continued fine but roads almost impassable. Evening

-the band played some.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, April 8</h3>

-

-<p>This morning the ground was hard again. But the weather looks more for

-rain. I went out with Captain Cahoon and President Haws to look out a

-better camp ground and we concluded to move on a little farther west

-about a quarter of a mile. It took the company all day to move, it

-being almost impossible to move the loads even with tripling teams.

-About five o'clock Egan and the teams came back with fifty-seven

-bushels of corn. He had to give 21c a bushel for nearly all of it.

-Elder Kimball came over soon after to see if he could not get some of

-it. While we were talking President Pratt and his company arrived and

-reported that their teams have had no corn since yesterday morning

-neither could they get any. Heber remarked that he would say no more

-about us letting him have any although we had only enough to feed five

-ears a feed every three days, and a journey of about fifty miles before

-we can get any more with bad roads. We let Parley have one load. Heber

-came with me to our camp and handed me a letter from President Young

-requesting us all to go on which I read to the company. I felt very

-unwell again and went to bed early.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, April 9</h3>

-

-<p>This morning we concluded to pursue our journey, President Kimball and

-his company started out about seven o'clock. President Pratt started

-out with his company. Our company waited for the latter to start in

-its place till after eight o'clock and then we went on. The roads were

-very bad indeed. About noon it commenced raining heavily which made

-the roads still worse. We had calculated to go about eight miles to

-timber but after toiling till about four o'clock and having traveled

-only about five miles and our teams being entirely worn down we turned

-out of the road to a little branch of water to camp. Several of my

-teams stuck and we had to work till dark to get part of them to camp

-and two wagons we were compelled to leave over night. Quite a number

-were obliged to stay back on the prairie and Charles Hale did not come

-more than a quarter of a mile from where we started this morning. Elder

-Kimball has camped one and a half miles farther on the open prairie and

-many of his teams are yet behind. P. P. Pratt's company are here

-with us as well as George Miller's company except those behind on the

-prairie. It continued to rain very heavily until night. We could not

-make a fire and had little for supper, our provisions being in one of

-the wagons back. This is the most severe time we have had but yet the

-camp seems in good spirits.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, April 10</h3>

-

-<p>The weather is yet very wet and gloomy. I spent the morning talking to

-Margaret. At seven o'clock a gale struck up and blew our tents over.

-We then concluded to move a few rods lower out of the wind. Before we

-got moved the wind moved to the west and it grew very cold. Our teams

-are gone back to fetch some of the wagons left last night. It rains and

-blows very badly and is very severe on our women and teams. Margaret

-and Lidia are out all the time and continually wetting both feet and

-all over. We expect Robert Burton's, one of Peck's, Peart's and my

-wagons in tonight. One of mine was fetched early in the morning. Our

-teams fare hard with wet and cold, having very little corn.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, April 11</h3>

-

-<p>This morning rode with Egan to help to get Brother Peart's wagon out of

-the slough. It took five yoke of oxen and twelve men to draw it out.

-The roads are yet very bad but it is fair and very cold. We sent twelve

-yoke of oxen to bring up Peck's and Charles Hale's wagon. They got in

-late at night.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, April 12</h3>

-

-<p>This morning before I got up, P. P. Pratt called and said that

-President Young wants the council to meet at Heber's camp at ten

-o'clock. I started out with Captain Egan on foot and arrived in

-season. Had some conversation with Ellen Sanders Kimball and then

-went to council. It was decided to change our route and take a more

-northern one to avoid the settlements. We will go to Grand River and

-there enclose a space of land about two miles square and put up some

-twenty log houses for a resting place for the companies. A company

-starts out in a day or two to seek out the location amongst whom are

-the President, Heber and others of the twelve. A company will also be

-sent west to Judge Miller's to go to work for feed, etc. After council

-I took dinner with Heber, the President being with us. I then wrote a

-letter to the trustees and returned with Captain Egan to our camp and

-soon after went to bed. The day has been fine but cold.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, April 13</h3>

-

-<p>Finished my letter to Diantha and then went over to Peck's blacksmith

-shop. We had concluded not to leave till morning. While there a message

-arrived saying that Haws has sent eight yoke of cattle to help us on.

-We then concluded to start forthwith, being noon. But although we had

-so many extra teams, we had to leave three wagons in camp over night.

-Four of my folks walked all the way but still it was hard for me to get

-along. Keller had to stay back over night. I arrived at Locust Creek,

-being about four miles journey, about six o'clock and sent the cattle

-back for Peck and Steven Hales but they did not return till morning.

-In the evening the band played some. James broke his wagon tongue. We

-camped a little north of President Heber's camp.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, April 14</h3>

-

-<p>The weather is again very fine. Because some of the wagons did not

-come, Egan and I concluded to go and meet them and not start farther

-until tomorrow. We met the teams close by and then took a northern

-course a hunting. We saw only squirrels and I got five of them. About

-noon we returned and found the camp mostly gone. Orders had come from

-the President for the whole to move to his camp today. Charles Terry

-and Henry were gone a hunting which detained me till about three

-o'clock. James and I then started with the four wagons. They overtook

-us when we had got about one half mile. We found the road very bad and

-had to double teams, our horses being so badly worn down. Charles Terry

-broke a wagon tongue.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, April 15</h3>

-

-<p>Last night I got up to watch, there being no guard. The cattle and

-horses breaking into the tents and wagons. I tarried up then called S.

-Hales and Kimball. This morning Ellen Kimball came to me and wishes me

-much joy. She said Diantha has a son. I told her I was afraid it was

-not so, but she said Brother Pond had received a letter. I went over

-to Pond's and he read that she had a fine fat boy on the 30th ult.,

-but she was very sick with ague and mumps. Truly I feel to rejoice at

-this intelligence but feel sorry to hear of her sickness. Spent the day

-chiefly reading. In the afternoon President Young came over and found

-some fault about our wagons, etc. In the evening the band played and

-after we dismissed the following persons retired to my tent to have a

-social christening, viz. William Pitt, Hutchinson, Smithies, Kay, Egan,

-Duzett, Redding, William Cahoon, James Clayton and Charles A. Terry and

-myself. We had a very pleasant time playing and singing until about

-twelve o'clock and drank health to my son. We named him William Adriel

-Benoni Clayton. The weather has been fine but rains a little tonight.

-Henry Terry's horses are missing and have been hunted today but not

-found. This morning I composed a new song--"All is well." I feel

-to thank my heavenly father for my boy and pray that he will spare and

-preserve his life and that of his mother and so order it so that we

-may soon meet again. O Lord bless thine handmaid and fill her with thy

-spirit, make her healthy that her life may be prolonged and that we

-may live upon the earth and honor the cause of truth. In the evening I

-asked the President if he would not suffer me to send for Diantha. He

-consented and said we would send when we got to Grand River.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, April 16</h3>

-

-<p>This morning prepared to proceed on our journey but a span of horses in

-our company in care of Henry Terry being missing we concluded not to

-start. I sent out three men to hunt them. Soon after they were brought

-into camp by another person. I then sent Henry Terry to hunt for the

-men but it was after two o'clock before they returned. We fed a little

-corn and then started. The company is far ahead of us. We traveled very

-slowly our teams were so weak. However, we soon came into sight of the

-camp but it was six o'clock before we got there, having traveled about

-seven miles. The camp was formed on a beautiful prairie, President

-Young's camp being on a little eminence. President Kimball's about

-three quarters of a mile north of his and ours about a quarter of a

-mile east. There is some little grass for our cattle here, but little.

-We sent those of our company about a mile southeast and had a guard

-over them through the night. President Haws, Captains Egan and Kay and

-Jackson Redding went out a hunting. George Hale's cattle were so worn

-down that they could not get along and when within about a mile of

-camp about fifteen of the brethren went to help. They took a rope and

-fixed it on the wagon, loosed the cattle and brought it in themselves,

-singing all the way. At night the band played and then I retired to bed.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, April 17</h3>

-

-<p>This morning very fine. Some of the camp started very early on the way.

-I was ready about eight o'clock but was detained on account of Captain

-Haws, Egan and others having gone hunting. I left Margaret to drive my

-team and sent them on and I drove the cattle on foot. We formed our

-encampment on a high dry place.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, April 19</h3>

-

-<p>While the rest are gone to meeting I turned to unpacking and took an

-inventory of church property. It took till about four o'clock to get

-through. Daniel Spencer's company had arrived about five o'clock.

-Porter Rockwell and Edwin Cutler arrived with the mail. Received a

-letter from Diantha confirming the birth of my son, also a letter from

-A. W. Babbit on some business. Went to see the President to show

-him the inventory but could not find him. About dark he sent for me and

-I went again but he was gone and I did not see him. My mare got in a

-mud hole last night and is very badly strained. Evening went to council

-and read many letters and wrote one to Elder Hyde.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, April 20</h3>

-

-<p>At nine o'clock went to council. Had to read some letters and several

-pieces from papers. A report was read of all those who are able to fit

-themselves for the mountains. A law was made on motion of President

-Young that any person who interrupts the council hereafter by talking

-or otherwise, shall be deprived the privilege of the council till

-the council see proper to admit him. The public teams being brought

-together, the bishops took a list of them to be disposed of at Grand

-River. After council I went to work to assort the articles to be sold,

-etc. Wrote to Diantha.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, April 21</h3>

-

-<p>This morning the main body of the camp are gone, but I am obliged

-to tarry and pack up the public goods again and re-load my wagons.

-I weighed most of our loads and it took until night to get through.

-Charles Terry's horse and one of mine are unable to drag any.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, April 22</h3>

-

-<p>I had intended to start early this morning but our horses were away

-which detained us till nearly nine o'clock. About that time we started

-and traveled slowly about four and a half miles. We then stopped at

-11:30 and thought we would rest our teams and get them cooled off.

-The sun was very warm and they sweat considerably. Word came that

-O. P. Rockwell was on his way and would call for letters. We

-intended to wait until he came. I wrote a short letter to A. W.

-Babbit and one to father but Porter failed to call, and at two o'clock

-we started again. We traveled until about three o'clock when we passed

-Orson Pratt who had concluded to stay a piece east of where the camp

-had tarried last night. He said all the grass was eaten up for several

-miles around. We concluded to go beyond the timber where the main camp

-stayed last night but tried to find grass for our teams. We started

-onward. At the creek watered our teams and rested awhile. We then went

-on about a mile and a half and found good grass and much of it. We at

-once concluded to tarry there. We had put a little wood into our wagons

-to cook with. We arrived on the ground about six o'clock and then got

-the best camp ground we have had for some time.</p>

-

-<p>Three of our teams were behind when we arrived. Horlick got in about

-a half an hour after us and then afterwards Swap and Jones arrived at

-7:30. We are all comfortable but very tired, having traveled about ten

-miles. My wife Ruth walked all the way and myself also. The rest walked

-by turns. We have seen many rattlesnakes today. The weather is very

-fine.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, April 23</h3>

-

-<p>This last night has been very stormy with heavy thunder, hail, rain

-and wind. The thunder and lightning was very loud and the rain fell in

-torrents. The weather continues cold and cloudy with some fine showers.

-There appears some heavy rain in the east and north. Grass looks green

-and the cattle have filled themselves well. We started about ten

-o'clock and soon found that last night's rain had made the roads much

-worse. After traveling about four miles we stopped to graze our teams,

-being one o'clock. While resting Elders Taylor and Orson Pratt passed

-on horseback. At three o'clock we started again and about four came to

-the President's camp. He was just returning from an exploring tour to

-find out better roads. His camp was on the east of a piece of timber.

-He gave orders to move to the other side of the timber about a mile

-from where he then was. We concluded to move on and finally camped on

-the next ridge southwest of his. Our teams are tired and there is not

-much grass. A number of the horses have been bitten by rattlesnakes

-and one is dead. There are a great number of these snakes on these

-prairies. The President says the road to the next timber is all ridges

-and hollows and will be hard on teams. We got camped about 5:30 p.m.,

-and before we got fixed a thunder storm came on with heavy rain but it

-was soon over and the evening afterwards was fine.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, April 24</h3>

-

-<p>This morning the President's company made a bridge over a creek and

-started again on their journey. Four of my horses were missing and

-I sent men to hunt them and went myself. They were found about ten

-o'clock. We tarried until about twelve to rest and then started. We

-went about two miles and stayed until four o'clock to graze our teams

-and then went on again and about six o'clock got to timber. I went to

-hunt a camping spot with Egan. We saw some women who told us Grand

-River was only a mile ahead and that the other companies were required

-to go down there. We started and soon arrived at the main body of the

-camp. We formed on the south side of the camp. The ground here is rich,

-timber good, and the prospects good for heavy crops. Here we calculated

-to tarry a while, fence in a piece of land and those who are not

-prepared to go through to tarry and raise crops. Wild onions grow in

-abundance. The weather has been fine today. Evening those of the band

-who are here went to Bishop Miller's tent and played for the President

-and a Mr. Bryant who lives about thirty miles from here. Pitt, George,

-Charles and Steven Hales and William F. Cahoon are way back as yet as

-well as Heber's company.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, April 25</h3>

-

-<p>This morning started by daybreak fishing. About 7:30 the President

-sent for me. I came back but he was gone. President Haws is regulating

-the company to watch our teams and also go to making rails, etc. The

-morning is fine. About nine o'clock Kendall, one of my teamsters,

-brought one of the horses he drives into camp which had been bitten by

-a rattlesnake. His nose had begun to swell badly. We got some spirits

-of turpentine and bathed the wound, washed his face in salt and water

-and gave him some snakes master root boiled in milk. He yet seems very

-sick. Our men have made a pen for the cattle at night. I feel quite

-unwell today. Spent the day chiefly reading. Evening Kennedy came to

-look at our horse and says they have given sufficient of the master

-root to kill four well horses. The horse looks very sick and is already

-scarcely able to stand. The band played a few tunes at night. About

-nine o'clock it rained somewhat and continued to shower through the

-night. Pitt arrived in camp this afternoon.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, April 26</h3>

-

-<p>The first news I heard this morning was that the horse was dead. This

-is a very unlucky circumstance for me for I am already very deficient

-in teams. Moreover, three of my teams leave me here, viz. Horlick,

-Chas. A. Terry and Jones with their wagons and teams. I shall then

-have about quarter teams enough to draw the loads. I have about three

-thousand pounds of church property besides my own goods. I see little

-chance of my moving from here at present. The morning was wet but it

-cleared off and continued so all day. I spent the day reading and

-writing while the rest went to meeting. Evening was sent for to go to

-council. Read a letter from O. Hyde stating that they had had an offer

-of two hundred thousand dollars for the temple. He writes of hard

-times in Nauvoo. The council selected one hundred men to make rails,

-forty-eight to build houses; twelve to dig wells; ten to build a bridge

-and the rest to go to farming.</p>

-

-<p>Steven Markham, C. C. Rich, L. C. Wilson, James Pace to

-oversee the rail cutting. Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, P. P.

-Pratt and Geo. A. Smith the house building. A. P. Rockwood to boss

-bridge building. President Young to boss him and the whole camp and

-Jacob Peart to boss well digging. The council decided to wait until

-morning to decide relative to selling the temple. After we adjourned I

-went into my wagon. I wrote a long letter to Diantha. It was about ten

-o'clock when I got through.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, April 27</h3>

-

-<p>Rained all day. At 6:00 a.m., went to meeting. The men were divided out

-to work and commenced operations and had to quit on account of rain.

-After breakfast went to council, when it was voted to sell the temple,

-signifying as to the reason, it will be more likely to be preserved.

-It is as lawful to sell it to help the poor saints as to sell our

-inheritance. We do it because we are compelled to do it. I was ordered

-to write an answer to Elder Hyde's letter which I did, saying finally,

-if the temple was sold, $25,000 must be sent for the benefit of the

-camp. The balance to be left at the disposal of elder Hyde, Woodruff

-and the trustees and to be appropriated to help away those who have

-labored hard to build the temple and the faithful poor of the saints.

-Spent the balance of the day packing up china and crockery to be sent

-by Egan.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, April 28</h3>

-

-<p>Weather very wet. Moved up on higher ground. Spent the morning

-unpacking chests for files and supplies. Afternoon unloading wagon

-to send a-trading. The weather very wet until night. President Young

-called over and said we had better not send Egan until the weather

-settles. The quadrille band have gone to give concerts in the Platte.

-They had to draw their wagons across the river by ropes the water was

-so high.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, April 29</h3>

-

-<p>It still continues to rain and the ground is getting quite soft and

-muddy. Spent the day setting men to fixing yokes and bows. Walked out

-about a mile to the bluff west of us. It ceased raining about eleven

-o'clock and continued fair through the day.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, April 30</h3>

-

-<p>Unpacking and re-packing chests all the day. It continues to rain more

-or less and the weather looks bad. Ruth is quite unwell.</p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-1>May 1846</h2>

-

-<h3>Friday, May 1</h3>

-

-<p>This month brings the damp wet weather. Chas. Shumway and George

-Langley start for George Herring this morning being instructed to bring

-him on to Council Bluffs. Spent the day preparing for Egan to start

-trading. He has gone with Jackson Redding and has taken $288.00 of

-church property besides two span of horses and harness and near $60.00

-of mine. Afternoon packing chests, etc. The weather finer and fairer.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, May 2</h3>

-

-<p>The day is fine. Preparing some for Horlick's return to Nauvoo on

-Monday. Wrote to Diantha. Selling shoes.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, May 3</h3>

-

-<p>The morning fair, windy and cloudy, southeast wind. Spent the morning

-making a list of all the company who have made their reports, also

-fixing tents. At ten o'clock went to meeting. O. Spencer talked a while

-and was followed by President Young who exhorted the camp to diligence

-in getting in crops for that will be our salvation the next winter. He

-said no company should start from here until the south field was made

-and some houses built. It commenced raining as the meeting closed and

-about three o'clock a thunder storm came on which lasted till near five

-o'clock. I spent the afternoon reading. Soon after five it cleared off

-some and the sun shone again. While at supper President Young called

-and stated that he wished that I should go to council with him. I

-started and the council met opposite his tent. It was decided that his

-fifty build the bridge tomorrow and all the rest to make rails and also

-that Sherwood and Orson Pratt go about twenty-five or thirty miles

-southwest to seek out another section.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, May 4</h3>

-

-<p>Finished my letter to Diantha and sent it by John Richards. Horlick has

-concluded to tarry till my wagons are fixed. I spent the day examining

-my flour and crackers and helping to fix the tent as considerable of

-my crackers and flour are damaged on account of having poor wagons.

-I dreamed last night that I saw Diantha and her babe. Her babe was

-dressed in white and appeared to be lying down with its eyes closed.

-She was bent over it apparently in sorrow. When I went to her she flew

-to me earnestly but the babe seemed to be kept still and asleep, and I

-awoke. This dream has troubled me considerably. Evening met the clerks

-of 50's in my tent and instructed them how to make their reports, etc.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, May 5</h3>

-

-<p>The weather very fine. I spent the day preparing to enter the reports

-on the record. Went over to J. D. Lee's and learned that some of

-the clerks had been to the President and told him that I had ordered

-that they should include in their reports each wife a man has. I did

-not do any such thing, only requested each name should be in full

-according to the order of a previous council. The President said it

-did not matter about the names being in full but I think in after days

-it will prove it does. Dr. Richards thinks as I do. The President,

-I understand, appeared quite angry. Many of the band are entirely

-destitute of provisions and my flour is so nearly down I have concluded

-to eat biscuit. I have given the band considerable of my biscuit

-already. At nine o'clock fixing my wagons. Expected a storm which soon

-afterwards commenced, raining and thundering very hard. Raining most of

-the night.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, May 6</h3>

-

-<p>Writing in the camp record. In the afternoon a storm arose emitting

-very violent wind, thunder, lightning, rain and hail. Many tents blew

-over. One of mine blew over and most of our articles were wet and some

-nearly spoiled. I have been informed that Esther Kay has been offering

-bitter complaints because they do not fare as well as some others. The

-hint was thrown at Margaret and she understood that it was for me.

-I have today let Miss Kay a pair of shoes and took down a large bag

-of biscuits and divided it amongst those who are needy. I have all

-the time let them have flour, sugar, bacon and other things as I had

-them and to hear of dissatisfaction because I will not let them have

-the last I have grieves me. I have given to the band as near as I can

-estimate, twelve hundred pounds of flour, about four or five hundred

-pounds of bacon besides much of other things. Towards evening it did

-not rain so much but continued hard after we went to bed. The wind was

-very severe, almost as bad as I ever saw it for about a half an hour.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, May 7</h3>

-

-<p>This morning it is dull, cloudy and cold. About nine o'clock commenced

-raining again. I have again given Sister Kay a quart cup full of sugar.

-I have spent the day entering reports on record.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, May 8</h3>

-

-<p>The weather fine and pleasant. Spent the day fixing wagon covers and

-wagons. Andrew Cahoon arrived from Nauvoo with the mail but no letter

-from Diantha or father. He says the troops arrested O. P. Rockwell

-last Thursday evening and took him to Carthage and thence to Quincy

-jail. It is doubtful whether he will now escape their cruel vengeance.

-This morning the mare had a colt. I have felt quite unwell all day.

-Evening went to President Young's to get records to look for a deed

-from Hiram Kimball to Ira S. Miles. Searched till near ten o'clock

-but the deed is not on record. Kimball seems disposed to take all the

-advantages he can from everyone.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, May 9</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fixing wagon cover, counseling with Wm. Cahoon and then was

-called aside by the President to read two letters from Sister Harris

-and her son. Dr. Richards, John Smith and Heber were present. Afternoon

-went fishing. The weather fine and no wind.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, May 10</h3>

-

-<p>Wrote a letter to Diantha, one to trustees, one to father, one to

-Brother Burdick, one to Thos. Moore and one to John Everett. Keller

-returned with thirteen bushels of meal and 250 pounds of bacon from

-the guard, having been gone twelve days. Evening went to council to

-Heber's tent. Samuel Bent having been appointed at today's meeting to

-preside over those left on his arm, he chose David Fullmer and Ezra T.

-Benson for counselors. P. P. Pratt was advised to start as soon as

-possible for Platte River to take all who were prepared to go.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, May 11</h3>

-

-<p>Morning distributing meal and bacon to the band. Afterwards the

-President, Heber, and Dr. Richards came and took some cordage.

-Afternoon weighing and loading.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, May 12</h3>

-

-<p>Sent Keller and Corbite to the mills to try and get flour, meal and two

-cows. Weighing and packing. About nine was sent for to go to council.

-I waited about two hours before anything was done. The vote for Ezra

-T. Benson to stay as counselor for father Bent was rescinded and it

-was voted to take Aron Johnson in his place. A letter of authority

-was written for father Bent by Dr. Richards but he made me copy it,

-and afterwards when the President spoke to him to write to O. P.

-Rockwell he favored me to do that although I left three men waiting to

-weigh my loading and load my wagon. The fact is I can scarcely ever

-go to council but Dr. Richards wants me to do his writing, although I

-have more writing to do as clerk of the camp than I can possibly do.

-Moreover I have to unpack the chest and wait on all of them with the

-public goods in my charge which keeps me busy all the time. President

-Young, Heber, Dr. Richards and Bishop Whitney have all made out to get

-lumber sawed to make their wagons comfortable but I can't get enough

-to make a hind board for one of my wagons, which has none. They are

-tolerably well prepared with wagons and teams but I am here with about

-five tons of stuff and only six wagons and five yoke of oxen to take

-it. I have dealt out nearly all of my provisions and have to get more

-before I can go on. It looks as if I had to be a slave and take slave's

-fare all the journey for it has worked that way so far. After council I

-was weighing and loading, etc., until night. We had some rain at night.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, May 13</h3>

-

-<p>The morning fair, but cloudy. Still loading my wagons and preparing to

-move. President Young and Heber's companies have gone and left me. I

-asked Jones and Terry what provisions I should have to leave them while

-they put in the crops. They concluded that 25 lbs. of corn meal each,

-and from 25 to 50 lbs. of bacon for three of them would be enough for

-twenty days. I think so, for we do not use as much meat in the same

-time in my whole family and as to 25 lbs. of corn meal each for so long

-a time, it is far more than my family can have. I have also to supply

-Horlick with provisions to take him back to Nauvoo and have kept four

-of them since they came here while they are to work for themselves. All

-this continues to weaken my hands for the journey. I have to get three

-new teamsters and also feed them while the others are living on my

-food. Markham came in the evening and said the President had sent word

-to father Bent to raise cattle enough to take my load to the new place

-tomorrow morning but I cannot go because my horses have gone to the

-mill for meal. Evening it commenced raining again and rained nearly all

-night.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, May 14</h3>

-

-<p>This morning is fair, but cloudy and like for more rain. Jones has

-concluded to leave for Nauvoo this morning and leave his son to

-plant for him. I have given him and Charles A. Terry a letter of

-recommendation. Jones asked me and said I would have to leave him some

-provisions while he put in his crops but I do not feel to do it for I

-think it is far more reasonable that the company for whom he has been

-working should supply him instead of me doing it out of the little

-provisions I have. I have left Charles and Henry Terry 50 lbs. of meal

-and 14 lbs. of bacon besides boarding them two weeks while they have

-been working on their farm. I went to see Brother Bent about the teams

-and from him learned that he could only raise three yoke of oxen and

-no wagon. I went to see Crisman who had promised two yoke and told him

-I should start in the morning then went and spent the day fixing the

-loads, etc.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, May 15</h3>

-

-<p>This morning Crisman called and said he should not let his cattle go

-until Brother Miller returned. I then concluded to take what teams I

-had and take my wagons and go on a few miles. I borrowed two yoke of

-oxen from Sister Kay and started. We got the wagons over the river and

-on the bluff about a mile and then stopped to let the teams feed. I

-walked on and met Brothers Miller, Pitt, Kay, and Hutchinson with a

-large drove of cows and cattle. I told Brother Miller my situation and

-the request of the President but I could get no satisfaction. We moved

-on with half of the wagons and I selected a spot over a quarter of a

-mile from timber. They then went back for the other wagons and got them

-all up about six o'clock. Reddings have come here also, and Sister Egan

-with one or two others.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, May 16</h3>

-

-<p>This morning is fine but the weather doesn't look like being fair long.

-I have concluded to send two wagons through and wait until the teams

-return before I can move farther. Swap and Conrad are gone with all the

-teams I have and I have sent A. Johnson's cattle back because they were

-useless unless I could have more. The day was very warm. I spent the

-day mostly reading. Afternoon Duzett, Hutchinson and Pitt arrived with

-their wagons.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, May 17</h3>

-

-<p>Spent the day mostly reading. Weather very warm. Afternoon Bishop

-Miller's company passed but he did not leave me any cattle although he

-has plenty and many cows. This agrees with his course, for from about

-two months before we left Nauvoo to the present, he has done nothing

-but for himself.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, May 18</h3>

-

-<p>Morning went on the road about two miles to see if I could meet Keller

-and Corbitt. It rained and thundered some and continued cloudy through

-the day.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, May 19</h3>

-

-<p>Spent the morning reading, afterwards went fishing. Some teams returned

-from camp and said that some from Nauvoo had arrived there which

-started two weeks ago last Saturday and that Elder Hyde had advised all

-the saints to move over the river as fast as possible from Nauvoo, and

-they have their ferry boats constantly employed. A number are already

-on their way here.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, May 20</h3>

-

-<p>This morning is very rainy and cold. Spun twenty yards of fish line

-and tied on eleven hooks. Swap and Conrad returned soon after eleven

-o'clock. They say the camp is about thirty miles ahead. They confirm

-the report of some having arrived from Nauvoo and say they were told

-that my father is on his way here. The roads are lined with teams,

-etc., on the other road north of this. Horlick came this afternoon for

-more victuals. Although he is a good wagon maker and carpenter, he is

-either unwilling to work or the camp at the farms is unwilling to board

-him for his work which I hardly believe. It seems as though teamsters

-are resolved to live on me till they eat all I have and I now lack

-about three thousand lbs. of provisions to proceed with. I can learn of

-no one who has fed his teamsters as long as I have after they stopped

-teaming and moreover, the teamsters started with church property but I

-have sustained them out of my own provisions. Towards evening it was

-fair but still threatens to rain again. I cannot yet learn a word from

-Diantha but think she must be on her way. My family is yet in good

-health except Margaret who looks sick but doesn't complain.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, May 21</h3>

-

-<p>Continued raining this morning but about noon it began to be fine.

-About five o'clock a heavy thunder storm came up and it started raining

-heavily. Storm after storm kept coming far into the night. Wilham F.

-Gaboon called on his way up between the two companies. He wanted some

-salt but I had none for him.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, May 22</h3>

-

-<p>This morning fine but cloudy, ground wet and soft. Wrote some in the

-camp record. About nine o'clock started on the road to look for a

-good camp ground. James started at the same time on horseback to see

-if he could meet Keller. I went about three miles and waited till he

-returned but no news from Keller. I concluded to move my camp about

-three miles and sent James back to load up and come on. I waited until

-they came. It was after five o'clock before they came up, the loads

-being heavy and the teams weak, the loads being too heavy for them. We

-are now camped on a very pleasant spot not far from timber. We have

-camped near the summit of a ridge where we can see a long way on both

-the roads leading to Miller's mill and to the next camp. Soon after we

-arrived Horace Whitney passed. I sent word to the President to send me

-more teams. I told Horlick we could not board him any longer and gave

-him a line to father asking him to board him until he returns. Have

-borrowed some meal from Edward Martin to get along. If Keller doesn't

-come soon we shall have to obtain something to eat somewhere or go

-short. We have nothing left to eat but some corn, and being short of

-milk we can not cook it to our advantage. James and I were consulting

-just at dusk as to the wisdom of one of us starting out to try and meet

-Keller and Corbitt or see if we could learn something of them. We both

-felt positive they had lost their horses. While we were talking we

-saw Keller and Horlick riding up from the first farm. From Keller we

-learned they had got horses and loads and were coming on the other road

-and would wait till we came up to meet them if we thought best. He said

-the guard had all returned and were with the wagons. This was joyful

-news to us and I felt my heart much relieved.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, May 23</h3>

-

-<p>James started out early to meet the wagons. After breakfast we started

-on the road and while standing Keller came up and said it was about

-four and a half miles to where the other road joins the main road. I

-started ahead on foot and after traveling about three miles came up to

-the teams where they had waited on the road. When I got up the guard

-seemed pleased to see me. Captain Allen had bought about thirty-six

-bushels of meal and 200 lbs. of bacon. They would not receive any

-pay for it. They have been faithful and diligent and have done much.

-There is yet $12.00 due them from the meal and they are determined

-I shall have that too. When my teams came up we put the meal in the

-wagons and started on. We went about a mile farther to Peter's Bridge

-where we concluded to camp for the night. We arranged our loading and

-I concluded to let Brother Allen have the wagon and team in his hands

-which is church property to send back to Nauvoo for his family. The

-guard made out a list of provisions which they wished me to leave them

-which was indeed very little. I gave them four pairs of shoes and

-probably three bushels of meal which is all the remuneration they would

-accept for all they had brought. They seemed well satisfied.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, May 24</h3>

-

-<p>This morning I gave certificates of discharge to A. Keller, John

-Horlick, Orville Allen, M. A. Dodge, Tollman, Starks, Mecham,

-Bartlet and P. R. Wright. Keller and Horlick started immediately

-for Nauvoo and Wright and Dodge soon after. I concluded to move on

-about two miles to where Hutchinson and Duzett were in camp. I started

-out on foot and most of my family soon after. It soon began to rain

-and rained till I was wet through. I traveled on about four and a half

-miles but could see no camp near timber. I stopped to rest at a post

-put up by Stewart where the Raccoon fork led off. While there Josiah

-Arnold passed on his way to Miller's. From him I learned that there

-was a camp ground about a half a mile farther. I went on and waited.

-Before any of the wagons arrived James came up. Soon after news arrived

-that Swap had broke his wagon tongue. I sent James to help bring on

-the loads. We only started with three wagons and left three back with

-Corbitt and Martin. The teams worked hard all day and at half past nine

-the last team arrived having taken all day to travel about five miles.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, May 25</h3>

-

-<p>This morning I sent James and Corbitt to go and trade three horses

-and some harness for cows. About noon I started out with two wagons

-and left one and about three loads of stuff in care of two of the

-guard. After we had traveled about three miles I met a messenger from

-the camp who handed me two letters, one was from Diantha and one from

-Brother Whitaker concerning a piece of land. We went on about a mile

-and crossed a creek where we waited to rest our teams. When I read

-Diantha's letter it gave me painful feelings to hear of her situation.

-After resting about an hour we went on about four miles farther and

-camped near Father Baker's camp on a creek. It was night before we

-got supper over. I found several men going back to Nauvoo for their

-families.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, May 26</h3>

-

-<p>Wrote an answer to Whitaker's letter and also one to Diantha. We

-started on about eight o'clock and found the road bad and many bad

-creeks where the bridges had been washed away. After traveling two

-miles one of my wagons loaded with corn meal was upset in a hole. But

-after about an hour's labor we got the loading in. The wagon was not

-much damaged. We proceeded about three miles farther and met two men

-with six yoke of oxen which President Young had sent to meet us. This

-was a great relief to us for we saw that we could not get to camp today

-because of our teams being so worn down. We rested our teams about an

-hour and then started on at a good pace. We found several more very

-bad creeks to pass but we did not have much difficulty. Duzett and

-myself drove the cows. Edward Martin drove his horses. About sundown

-we arrived in camp, having traveled about thirteen miles. This place

-is called Mt. Pisgah and is a very beautiful situation, the prairie

-rolling and rich, skirted with beautiful groves of timber on the main

-fork of the Grand river. Soon after we arrived Elder Kimball came

-to welcome us to camp and then came Elder Richards and family and

-President Young who all seemed glad to see us in camp.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, May 27</h3>

-

-<p>This morning my horses and one cow and several of the oxen are missing.

-I went to see Bishop Whitney about getting teams to send back for the

-loads remaining but could get no satisfaction from him. I went back

-and unloaded two wagons on the ground and about the same time saw the

-President who said he would send for them. Elder Kimball sent one

-wagon and the President sent two. President Young said they intended

-to take the church property in their wagons and take it on to Council

-Bluffs but I must go with them and leave James and Corbitt and Egan to

-bring on the wagons they have, etc. I cannot think they understand my

-situation in regard to the teams or they would make some definite move

-about it. They intend to start in a day or two and I tried to fix the

-wagons in good order but had no chance to get even one fixed. Spent the

-day fixing up my tent and had to get a new pole. Heber took my other

-one. Afternoon it commenced gathering for a storm and we had barely

-time to get the tent up and the things under it before it began to rain

-and continued till I went to sleep. George Herring and Shumway arrived

-here last night. I spoke with them today.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, May 28</h3>

-

-<p>The morning dull and foggy, ground wet, etc. Went fishing some. Evening

-played with Hutchinson and Pitt. All my oxen, horses and the cow were

-found. I went out this morning hunting for them on foot. Evening

-raining.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, May 29</h3>

-

-<p>The weather fine, cool, and windy. Talked with Heber some. He says I

-shall have teams. One of my wagons came in this morning.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, May 30</h3>

-

-<p>Went and borrowed a robe and ornaments from Aaron Farr then rode

-with Dr. Richards about three miles on the prairie. There were five

-others and among them President Young. Two tents were brought and

-we fixed them up and then met and clothed. There were President

-Young, P. P. Pratt, J. Taylor, Geo. A. Smith, A. Lyman, John

-Smith, N. K. Whitney, D. Spencer, O. Spencer, C. C. Rich,

-E. T. Benson, Wm. Huntington and myself. Clothed and having

-offered up the signs, offered up prayer, Heber C. Kimball being mouth.

-We then conversed awhile and appeared again, Geo. A. Smith being

-mouth--A. P. Rockwood and Wm. Kimball were guarding the tent.

-Prayers were offered that we might be delivered from our enemies and

-have teams to go on our journey, etc. About two o'clock we returned to

-camp. Many of the teams were coming in and among the rest, the teams

-sent back for my loading which all arrived tonight.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, May 31</h3>

-

-<p>Having heard that Egan was near I started out to meet him. The morning

-was fine but about eleven o'clock it began to thunder. I went about

-two miles and before I got back without seeing Egan it rained heavily.

-I was wet through. I called at the meeting while President Young was

-speaking. It rained nearly all the afternoon. Noal Richards died.</p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-2>June 1846</h2>

-

-<h3>Monday, June 1</h3>

-

-<p>Was wet in the morning and windy all day. The council got me four

-wagons and seven yoke of oxen to take church property.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, June 2</h3>

-

-<p>Still windy but fair. President Young has again stated I lack some

-cattle yet. Fixing my wagon, etc. Have about teams enough but lack

-teamsters.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, June 3</h3>

-

-<p>Fixing my wagons. Concluded to start on. My teams were scattered but we

-started with what we had. We got over the river at three o'clock, one

-yoke of cattle still missing. I sent the men hunting for them but they

-were not found.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, June 4</h3>

-

-<p>Again sent the men hunting cattle. The day was very cold and windy,

-almost as cold as winter. I spent the day fixing a wagon for Diantha

-expecting her on in about two weeks. Lucy Walker called in this

-afternoon and expressed sorrow on account of the treatment of Heber's

-family toward her. Amos Fielding called on his way to the President's

-camp. Towards evening it rained and there was one of the most beautiful

-rainbows I ever saw in my life. We could see its brilliant reflection

-within a few rods of us. In the evening Douzett came for his cow which

-had tarried with ours. He concluded to stay over night. My teamsters

-returned without finding the cattle.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, June 5</h3>

-

-<p>Sent all the men except James Douglas to hunt the cattle. About nine

-o'clock my adopted son Thomas Corbich returned with them. I then waited

-till two o'clock for the men to return, three of them being still

-absent. I have now eleven wagons, sixteen yoke of oxen, six cows,

-five horses, and six teamsters, besides my brother James, whose names

-are Conrad Neil, Levi N. Kendall, James Douglas, Milton F. Bartlett,

-Willard Smith, and A. E. Hinkel, four of the latter are new to me

-and do not seem to know much about teaming. At two o'clock I concluded

-to start on and after about an hour's preparation we started. The men

-took two teams each. I drove the cows on foot. The roads are a great

-deal better. We traveled about six miles and camped on a hill beyond

-nice timber. Pitt is here and Brother Taylor's camp. Amos called on his

-way back to England. He stayed and conversed a while. I will here say

-that the oxen put in by Brothers Olive and Rich to take church property

-are very poor and some of them scarcely of any use. We arrived here

-about half past six o'clock. The day has been cold, fine and fair.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, June 6</h3>

-

-<p>The morning very fine. We started out at eight o'clock; Pitt joined

-with us. I went on foot to drive the cows. About ten o'clock we had a

-little rain. After traveling about seven miles we arrived at a piece

-of timber where the patriarch John Smith was resting. We concluded to

-rest our teams here and stopped at half past eleven. At one o'clock we

-started again and soon after had a heavy thunder shower. I was about

-a mile ahead of the wagons and having no shelter was soon completely

-drenched with rain. It got very cold while raining. As soon as the

-wagons came up we stopped till the shower was over which did not last

-long. We then pursued our journey and at six o'clock camped on the open

-prairie a long way from timber, having traveled about sixteen miles.

-After the shower the day was fine. I was very tired and wet and after

-eating a little went to bed. Vilate Ruth is weaning from the breast

-today which makes her cry.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, June 7</h3>

-

-<p>Inasmuch as we were not near timber we concluded to travel on till we

-found some. We started at eight o'clock and traveled till two, being

-about nine miles, when we came to a little grove of timber and just

-beyond a bad bottom of prairies. I concluded to pass this and camp on

-the adjoining ridge. I drove the cows all day on foot. My feet were

-sore and blistered. The day was very fine. Sometime after we arrived

-Father John Smith came and camped just below us.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, June 8</h3>

-

-<p>The weather fine. Traveled about ten miles, the roads being very hilly

-and uneven. We camped on a bottom near timber. I went fishing and had

-good success. I drove the cows till noon then rode with family.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, June 9</h3>

-

-<p>Weather fine and hot. Went fishing at daybreak with James and had

-good luck. At nine we went on. I rode again. Afternoon three Indians

-overtook us and begged some bread. We camped on a bottom beside Coleman

-and others, having traveled about twelve miles. Two Indians are here

-and we have learned their camp is only three miles from us. President

-Young left word to go in companies from here to avoid being plundered

-by the Indians. We had our cattle tied up and a guard over them through

-the night.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, June 10</h3>

-

-<p>Went fishing at daybreak and caught thirty-six. Weather hot. We started

-about nine o'clock and found the roads good but over hills and ravines

-all the day. At six o'clock we camped in sight of the Pottawattamie

-Indian village. When about two miles from it they discovered us coming

-and we soon saw a number of them riding towards us. Some had bells

-on their horses which frightened our horses and cattle. James and I

-took the horses and let the others take the oxen the best way they

-could. Some of the Indians followed our wagons and inquired often for

-whiskey. We had to pass some timber and a river before we arrived at

-their village which is situated on a very beautiful ridge skirted

-by timber and beautiful rolling prairie. Before we arrived at the

-timber it seemed that the whole village had turned out, men, women,

-and children, some on horses and many on foot. Their musicians came

-and played while we passed them. They seemed to escort our wagons and

-asked if we were Mormons. When we told them we were they seemed highly

-pleased. It took us some time to cross the bridge over the river and

-then we were perfectly surrounded by Indians apparently from curiosity

-and friendship. They watched us cross the bridge and others followed

-on with us. The boys seemed to learn the words our teamsters used to

-drive the cattle and would run and in their way help to drive. They

-manifested every feeling of friendship and nothing unkind or unfriendly

-transpired. Soon after we passed the bridge we were met by Jas. W.

-Cummings and the brethren from Shariton Ford with John L. Butler to

-bring Emmet's company to meet us. The cattle have been with Emmet's

-company from the time they left Nauvoo. The road leads within about

-two hundred yards of the Indians and I wanted to go about two miles

-farther to save the necessity of having a guard but soon after we left

-the village we had to ford a stream which was deep and bad to cross.

-I then concluded to camp on the ridge above the ford and in sight

-of the village, being about a half or three quarters of a mile from

-them. Many of them followed us, men, women and children and watched

-all our movements but about dark all departed in peace. They seemed

-well pleased with their visit. They certainly showed every mark of

-friendship and kindness imaginable and treated us as brothers. We

-learned that the chief's daughter was buried today. We have traveled

-about fifteen miles. From Cummings we learned that Emmet had left his

-things belonging to the company with him. Part of the company has

-crossed at St. Louis and are now on the line here. The agent of the

-U. S. refuses to let them pass. The other part of the company are

-thirty miles below the bluffs expecting us to cross there.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, June 11</h3>

-

-<p>Many of the Indians again came to the camp with the same friendly

-feeling. Some squaws came to trade. We started soon after nine, the

-weather being very hot. We traveled over about five miles of very

-uneven road. The rest was good. We had to travel till late before we

-came to water. We camped on a small creek where Coleman and Tanner were

-camped, having traveled about fourteen miles.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, June 12</h3>

-

-<p>Traveled about three miles, the weather being very hot. We camped on

-a beautiful ridge where the main body had evidently left but little

-before, beside a large rapid stream. I concluded to stay here until

-Monday to rest our teams and give their shoulders a chance to heal,

-several of which were very sore.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, June 13</h3>

-

-<p>Fixing a wagon, etc. The weather very hot. Evening killed one of our

-cows. The mosquitoes here began to be very troublesome, there being so

-many of them and so bloodthirsty.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, June 14</h3>

-

-<p>The weather very hot and the mosquitoes tremendously bad. This morning

-I weighed bread for each man at the rate of a half a pound a day.

-They seem very much dissatisfied and growl to each other very much. I

-weighed for my family of ten as much as I weighed for six teamsters.

-They were dissatisfied but we had some left. They have hitherto had

-all they wanted three times a day and above this have eaten up a bag

-of crackers unknown to me which I had reserved for the mountains.

-The mosquitoes being so bad, I concluded to go on a little piece. We

-started at 1:00 p.m. and traveled until four when we arrived at a small

-clear stream having traveled about six miles. I camped here and in the

-evening told the men a part of what I thought of their conduct.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, June 15</h3>

-

-<p>The morning cooler but mosquitoes bad. Our horses were missing and

-we were detained till ten o'clock before we could start. The horses

-had gone back to where we left yesterday. We traveled till sundown

-before we came to water, being about twelve miles. We camped near to

-C. L. Whitney.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, June 16</h3>

-

-<p>Started at 7:30 and traveled about twelve miles when we came in sight

-of the Missouri river and the main camp about five miles farther. We

-soon learned that some of the camp were coming back to find water.

-There being no water where we were, we moved back about two miles to a

-spring and there camped expecting to stay until we should learn what to

-do.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, June 17</h3>

-

-<p>This morning Kay and Duzett rode up and said they were anxiously

-expecting us at the camp and wanted us to go immediately. I went to

-the camp with them to look out a place while my men yoked up and

-brought the wagons. When I arrived I saw Heber. He seemed pleased to

-see me and went with me to look out a place to camp. I fixed a spot

-between President Young's camp and Bishop Miller's. Heber said the

-twelve had an invitation to go to the village to the agent's to dinner

-and they wanted the band to go with them. I went back to meet the

-wagons which had been detained on account of some of the cattle being

-missing. As soon as my wagons arrived I got ready and started in Heber

-s carriage with Heber, Bishop Whitney, and Smithies. Edward Martin,

-Pitt, Hutchinsoo, Kay and Duzett rode in the other carriage. When we

-arrived at Mr. Mitchell's, the agent's place, we were introduced to him

-one by one. We then played and Kay sang until about five o'clock when

-we returned. This village is situated but a little distance from the

-river, probably fifty rods. It is composed of twelve or fifteen blocks,

-houses without glass in the windows, and is the noted place where the

-Lamanites for years held their council. The inhabitants are composed of

-Lamanites, half breeds and a few white folks. I had an introduction to

-Sarrapee an Indian trader. We arrived home just at dusk.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, June 18</h3>

-

-<p>Fixing a wagon all day. Evening went fishing. Spoke to Bishop Whitney

-about some more teams.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, June 19</h3>

-

-<p>Fixing wagons and preparing to send off some things to trade. Evening

-went fishing. Went with the band to hold a concert at the village. Many

-went from the camp. The Indians and half breeds collected $10.10 and

-gave it to us and the agent Mr. Mitchel gave a dinner to all that came.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, June 21</h3>

-

-<p>At home until evening. At 5:00 met with the brethren of the camp and

-acted as clerk while they selected men to build the boat.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, June 22</h3>

-

-<p>Fixing my wagons. The day was windy and cold. I was informed yesterday

-that Diantha is twenty miles back from Mt. Pisgah with her father still

-farther back. They have sent her chest on to Pisgah and she is with

-Loren. I partly made up my mind to start in the morning and bring her.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, June 23</h3>

-

-<p>This morning I got my food ready to start after Diantha but Vilate Ruth

-seemed quite sick and I concluded not to start. We took the teams and

-went to the village to pick gooseberries but it rained nearly all the

-time we were gone. I bought a scythe and some other things and tried

-to trade a watch for a yoke of cattle. Major Mitchel offered me three

-yoke for the gold watch. We got home about 3:00. I then went and told

-the President about Mitchel's offer and he told me to sell it. It was

-so cold and wet and windy we went to bed early and soon after we got

-to bed, Heber and Dr. Richards came to my wagon with two letters from

-Diantha, one dated Nauvoo, May 17, 1846, the other Big Prairie, June

-18th. She tells that she is sent on by her father and is with Loren and

-is very anxious that I should bring her or send for her. I made up my

-mind to start tomorrow. The night was very stormy with strong winds and

-heavy rains.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, June 24</h3>

-

-<p>The morning wet and cold. I went over to President Young and told him

-where I was going and what for. He said he would get the cattle for me.

-I also spoke to Heber and he said: "Go and prosper." At 11:00 I went

-to council and President Young, Kimball and Taylor concluded also to

-go to Pisgah after the cannon. I started at two o'clock it then being

-fair. At five o'clock I passed Father Knowlton's company thirteen miles

-from camp and at seven passed Laharpe's company and inquired of Brother

-Burgham and Freeman about Diantha but could not learn much from them.

-Brother Ezra Bickford was here on his way back to Nauvoo. He said he

-was tired from riding on horseback and asked if I would let him go with

-me to Pisgah and use his horse in the wagon. I told him to come on. I

-soon found it made a difference in the load. We went on about two miles

-and stopped at dark on the middle of the prairie near no water. After

-feeding we lay down to rest. We had several heavy showers through the

-night.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, June 25</h3>

-

-<p>This morning arose at four o'clock and moved our wagon a little to

-fresh grass to let the horses feed, they being tied to it. It is fair,

-but cloudy. We started again at 5:30 a.m., traveled till 10:00 then

-rested till 2:00 and then traveled until dark, making thirty-one miles.

-We camped just beyond the Indian village in the midst of a severe

-thunder storm. It rained most of the day and the roads were bad.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, June 26</h3>

-

-<p>Did not start until after seven. Morning fair, roads bad. After

-traveling about six miles we found Horace Clark and others camped on

-one side of a small stream and Orson Spencer on the other side. The

-creek was full of water to the bank and in the deepest place about six

-feet over the bridge and a part of the bridge washed away. We tarried

-until 3:00 and then concluded to try to get over. Walter L. Davis and

-Wm. D. Huntington volunteered to help us over. We unloaded the wagon

-box for a boat, taking a few of our things over at a time. When we got

-them all over we swam the horses over, loaded up, and at 5:00 started

-again and went till near nine having traveled about sixteen miles.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, June 27</h3>

-

-<p>The day was fine and we traveled about thirty-eight miles and camped

-on the prairie about eight miles from Pisgah. During the day we passed

-some U. S. officers on their way to see President Young and the

-council. We afterwards learned that they professed to be going to the

-authorities of the church by order of the President of the United

-States to raise five hundred volunteer Mormons to defend Santa Fe, etc.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, June 28</h3>

-

-<p>At daybreak it rained again. We started at four o'clock and arrived

-at Pisgah at eight. Had some conversation with Father Huntington and

-C. C. Rich. We fed and at nine o'clock started again. We soon

-saw Brother Woodruff. He was glad to see me and we conversed together

-some time. From him I learned that Missouri had sent up a committee to

-Pisgah to search for forts and cannon, etc. He says the Missourians

-are terrified and many are moving from the back to the interior

-settlements. He also stated that we have a friend in the British

-Parliament and the British had held a private council in relation to

-the treatment of the U. S. towards us. Britain is making great

-preparations for war. They have sent ten thousand troops to Canada

-and a fleet around Cape Horn to Oregon. They are intending to arm

-the slaves of the south and have their agents in the Indian country

-trying to bring them in war to fight the U. S. After we left

-Elder Woodruff we passed on and soon met Sister Durpee and Brother

-Lott and his company. He said Diantha was back about four miles. Soon

-after we met Orville Allen and from him learned that Diantha was back

-at least twelve miles. We continued on and at two o'clock fed. We

-arrived at Father Chase's between four and five o'clock. Diantha was

-very glad to see me and burst into tears. My little boy is far beyond

-all my expectations. He is very fat and well formed and has a noble

-countenance. They are both well and I feel to thank my heavenly Father

-for his mercies to them and Father Chase and to his family and may the

-Lord bless them for it, and oh Lord, bless my family and preserve them

-forever. Bless my Diantha and my boy and preserve their lives on the

-earth to bring honor to Thy name and give us a prosperous journey back

-again is the prayer of thy servant William. Amen. At night we had a

-heavy thunder storm. It rained very heavily.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, June 29</h3>

-

-<p>The morning is cool and cloudy, the ground very wet. Brother Bickford

-is gone to Nauvoo. Left Father Chase's company about 10:30 a.m. They

-kindly furnished us with bread stuffs sufficient to last us to camp. We

-arrived at Mt. Pisgah and stayed near Father Huntington's.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, June 30</h3>

-

-<p>This morning in council with President Huntington, Rich and Benson

-until nine o'clock a.m. Took breakfast with Elder Rich and then started

-on. We passed Brothers Woodruff, and Lott and their companies about

-twelve miles from Pisgah. After traveling about twenty-six miles we

-turned onto the big prairie for the night. The weather fine and roads

-good.</p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-3>July 1846</h2>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, July 1</h3>

-

-<p>P. P. Pratt passed about six o'clock. We afterwards learned that

-he was going on express to Pisgah to raise the 500 volunteers to go to

-Santa Fee. After traveling about seven miles we rested with Brother

-Weeks and ate breakfast, then went on till two o'clock and stopped to

-feed. We continued on till dark, having traveled about seventeen miles.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, July 2</h3>

-

-<p>Having lost the horses during the night I went back four miles to hunt

-them. I met someone and enquired about them, asking if he had not seen

-them. Went back to camp and ate a little and afterwards found them

-about a mile west. We started about ten o'clock and at sundown passed

-the Indian village and the stream at which we previously camped. We

-camped about two miles west of the Indian village.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, July 3</h3>

-

-<p>Started early and went about four miles to a creek where we ate

-breakfast. The day very hot but we traveled about twenty-five miles.

-We met President Young, Heber Kimball, and Dr. Richards going back

-to raise volunteers. They feel that this is a good prospect for our

-deliverance and if we do not do it we are downed. We went on and camped

-near Hiram Clark and took supper with him.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, July 4</h3>

-

-<p>This morning my horses were missing and five from Clark's company

-were missing. I found them a little west of the camp and started on.

-Diantha having eaten nothing this morning I tried to buy some bread but

-could not get it till I got home. I arrived at three o'clock and found

-my little Vilate sick, the rest all well. I went over to Council at

-Captain Allen's tent.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, July 5</h3>

-

-<p>At home all day. Conrad has left and gone to Elder Hyde's. The weather

-is very hot. My traders have got back and brought twenty bushels of

-corn, but only one of wheat.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, July 6</h3>

-

-<p>Spent the day fixing wagons. Day very hot. Bishop Whitney called to see

-us. They are getting over the river as fast as possible but it is slow

-work.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, July 9</h3>

-

-<p>Spent the two previous days fixing wagons and today went down to the

-river to see about crossing, etc. Took my family with me.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, July 10</h3>

-

-<p>Fixing my wagons, also Saturday unpacked the dry goods wagon and

-repacked it.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, July 12</h3>

-

-<p>Went to the meeting at Elder Taylor's camp. In the evening President

-Young, Kimball and Richards returned. They requested me to go to

-Taylor's to council. I went and tarried till dark, wrote a letter to

-the Quadrille band to meet tomorrow also wrote orders for all the men

-in camp to meet.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, July 13</h3>

-

-<p>Went to the general meeting and played with the band and then kept

-minutes. They got three companies of 43 each and half of a fourth

-company. All my teamsters have enlisted. I am now destitute of help.

-Edward Martin is advised to go and leave his family in my charge. I

-have still four yoke of oxen missing and I do not know where to find

-them. Last night James was seized with a fit and is quite unwell today,

-mostly insensible. Vilate Ruth is quite sick and on the whole my

-situation is rather gloomy. The meeting adjourned at five till tomorrow

-at eight, after which the company danced till dark.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, July 14</h3>

-

-<p>I went over to meeting this morning and told the President my

-situation. He consented for me to go back to my camp to see to things.

-I came back but feel very unwell. Martin's youngest child died at 1:30

-p.m.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, July 15</h3>

-

-<p>Went with Edward Martin to bury his child on a high bluff south of the

-camp. We buried it between two small oak trees, a little east of them,

-the babe's head to the east. After returning Heber sent word for us to

-cross the creek to the other bluff where Elder Taylor is camped. We

-got some of the cattle together and took part of the wagons over and

-then returned for the remainder. As soon as we got there a message came

-that the President wished the band to go to the village. We accordingly

-started but when we got there we found nobody there and after a little

-trading we returned home.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, July 16</h3>

-

-<p>Hunting my horses to take Diantha to see her father's folks who arrived

-yesterday. In the afternoon we started out and went about three miles

-from here. They appeared very glad to see us. We got home again at dark.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, July 17</h3>

-

-<p>Went fishing.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, July 18</h3>

-

-<p>Went to the village to play with the band for the volunteers. They

-danced till near sundown when we returned home.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, July 19</h3>

-

-<p>In the wagon till evening. Sister Farr came to see us. Diantha and I

-went home with her in the evening.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, July 20</h3>

-

-<p>In the morning fixing for our concert. Afternoon the band came with

-their wives and we played and danced till dark. President Young made

-some appropriate remarks exhorting the saints to prayer, etc.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, July 21</h3>

-

-<p>This morning it rained very heavily. Went to council at Elder Pratt's

-camp. The council appointed a council of twelve to preside here, viz.

-Isaac Morley, Geo. W. Harris, James Allred, Thos. Grover, Phineas

-Richards, Herman Hyde, Wm. Peck, Andrew H. Perkins, Henry W. Miller,

-Daniel Spencer, J. H. Hales and John Murdock. I wrote a letter

-informing them of their appointment also instructing them not to let

-any pass over the river unless they could be in time to go to Grand

-Island and cut hay, to watch over the church, establish schools for the

-winter, etc. I spent the remainder of the day at the creek. I asked

-the President what I should do but could get no answer. I have not

-been able to get any satisfaction from any of the council as to what I

-should do and am totally at a loss to know whether to tarry here or go

-on. My provisions are nearly out and my teamsters all gone and nearly

-all the cattle strayed away, and no one to hunt them except James and

-Corbitt and they are sick.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, July 22</h3>

-

-<p>Fixing a wagon for Margaret and re-loading some wagons.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, July 23</h3>

-

-<p>Unpacking church property. Found considerable of it very much damaged

-with wet. I put it out and dried it well and repacked it. Evening went

-with Diantha to see her folks.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, July 24</h3>

-

-<p>Regulating the loading, etc.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, July 25</h3>

-

-<p>Bought 357 pounds of flour at $2.50 per hundred and carried it about

-three hundred yards to my wagons then spent the day fixing wagon

-covers. Evening went to Brother Farr's. About 11:00 a storm arose

-and it soon began to rain heavily and a while after blew a perfect

-hurricane. The thunder was awful and the rain poured in torrents for

-about a half an hour.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, July 26</h3>

-

-<p>This morning the tent is down, wagons drenched and everything looks

-gloomy enough. Scarcely a tent in the camp was left standing and many

-wagon covers torn. A report is circulated that a cow was killed by

-lightning. Much damage is done to wagons, provisions, etc. The cow was

-killed about 200 yards west of my wagons. There was a tent struck also

-but no persons hurt. I went to meeting and heard Benson and Taylor

-preach. Afternoon at my wagons. Evening Bishop Whitney, President Young

-and Kimball called. I made out a bill of goods for them to send east by

-Robert Pierce. They ordered me to go down to the river tomorrow.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, July 27</h3>

-

-<p>Loading wagons, packing, etc., preparing to start. Last night I engaged

-Pelatiah Brown as a teamster. We started soon after noon. I drove the

-cows and James, Corbitt and Brown the teams with twelve wagons. We had

-to leave one cow four yoke of oxen and two horses on the ridge, being

-missing. We got down about six o'clock. Bishop Whitney passed and said

-I should not get over the river tomorrow and I suppose we shall have

-to wait some days. James and Corbitt are both sick and discouraged on

-account of having so little help and so many cattle, etc., to look

-after. They have a hard time of it but I can see no prospects of its

-being better.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, July 28</h3>

-

-<p>James and Corbitt started back to hunt the cattle. I went to the

-village and received $12.00 of Larpey for the cordage I sold to Allen,

-$3.50 is yet my due. I then went and bought some flour of Tanner. While

-we were weighing it a storm arose and it rained and thundered and

-lightninged throughout the day and nearly all night. I have not seen

-more rain fall in a long time.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, July 29</h3>

-

-<p>Got the balance of the flour making 889 lbs., most of it at $2.50 and

-200 lbs. at $2.00. Afternoon went to the village with Alice, Diantha,

-and Margaret. There saw President Young and Heber. They have just

-bought a pony and some cloth, etc., and seem to have money enough but

-there is none to buy me flour. I yet lack about a ton.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, July 30</h3>

-

-<p>At home all day. Unpacked mother's wagon and found many things wet and

-damaged.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, July 31</h3>

-

-<p>Attending to wagons, cattle, etc., all day.</p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-4>August 1846</h2>

-

-<h3>Saturday, August 1</h3>

-

-<p>This morning I went to the river to see how soon we could cross and

-learned there was a prospect of our crossing this evening or tomorrow

-morning. I then went back to my camp and we started with the wagons a

-few at a time. My brother James is lame in bed. Pitt is lame. Brown

-is lame and Corbitt nearly spent. About noon we got all the wagons to

-the river and Corbitt returned to take the cattle to grass. I went to

-Larpey's and got the balance of the money then went to Mitchel's to try

-to trade my music box for a cow but did not succeed.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, August 2</h3>

-

-<p>Preparing to cross the river. Pelatiah Brown went swimming all the

-forenoon and when Corbitt asked him to help with the teams he swore he

-would not if Jesus Christ would ask him. I told him if he did not feel

-like helping us he could go somewhere else, I did not want him. He went

-and I am again left without a teamster. I will here say that Brown will

-not work only when he has a mind to and during the last week when James

-and Corbitt and Pitt were all gone he would go to the river swimming

-instead of attending to the cattle and I may as well be without a

-teamster as have a man who will go away in a cramp. About noon we

-crossed three wagons over and kept to work until we had got them all

-over which took us till dark. We had to crowd our wagons together in

-the road just above the river on account of its being stopped up by

-other wagons. We could not get our cattle to grass and they have had

-none since last night, but having a few bushels of corn we gave them

-five ears a piece. After supper I went fishing with Wm. F. Cahoon and

-others until two o'clock but had very poor luck.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, August 3</h3>

-

-<p>Started this morning to get our wagons on the prairie. The road is very

-narrow and bad, up steep bluffs and very muddy. It took four yoke of

-oxen to take a very light load. When we had got four of the wagons up

-eight yoke of Bishop Whitney's cattle came to help us and afterwards

-nine yoke of President Young's and Kimball's. We got to the prairie

-about noon and stopped to feed our cattle. I sent on five wagons with

-the teams sent to help us and after feeding about an hour started with

-the remainder. I drove the spare cattle and horses. We got the wagons

-to camp about six o'clock. One of President Young's oxen killed himself

-when going to drink, being so eager he pitched into the creek and broke

-his neck. When we got to camp we were all completely tired. My feet

-were sore and my limbs ached and had to go to bed. We camped on the

-north end of Heber's company. We have left nine head of cattle over the

-river yet and there is little prospect of being able to find some of

-them.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, August 4</h3>

-

-<p>This morning Heber's company have moved on about two days journey and

-again left me here alone. I loaned C. L. Whitney three yoke of

-oxen to help him through. They are gone to find a place within thirty

-miles of here to winter. I spent the day doing little, being so unwell.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, August 5</h3>

-

-<p>Moved down a little nearer water. There spent the day fixing Ruth's

-wagon. Corbitt has gone over the river to hunt cattle and in the

-evening returned with one yoke.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, August 6</h3>

-

-<p>Putting covers on Margaret's and mother's wagons, etc. Afternoon

-writing copy of the returns of companies.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, August 7</h3>

-

-<p>Spent the forenoon writing copy of return of companies of the

-U. S. army. About noon two of Heber's teamsters came with some

-cattle to help me to the main camp. I left off writing and went to

-putting the wagons in order. While fixing a chicken coop I struck my

-forehead with a hammer which disabled me from work the remainder of the

-day.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, August 8</h3>

-

-<p>This morning we arose about three o'clock and while some took the

-cattle to graze the rest got the wagons loaded, etc., ready to start.

-We got away soon after sunrise. I rode a mule and drove the cows. We

-traveled about nine miles before we came to any water. Here we took the

-teams from the wagons to a spring about a quarter of a mile from the

-road. The cattle seemed tired but one of the teamsters said it was only

-about three miles farther and should soon be there. We concluded to go

-on without stopping to feed. But before we had proceeded far some of

-the cattle gave out, the day being very hot, and before we got to camp

-several yoke gave up entirely and were left on the road and brought

-afterwards. One of the cattle died almost as soon as they took him from

-the wagon, being about a mile from camp. Two or three others were not

-expected to live. When we arrived Heber wanted us to form on his north

-line but we could only get half of our wagons into the space left for

-the whole of them. I then moved over to the south side and formed next

-to D. Russell. We got our tent up but can have no fire until Monday.

-The cattle are so tired we will not use them. I feel about sick myself.

-Heber's camp is formed in a kind of parallelogram, each wagon camped

-in a perfect line with the others. The square in the center is about

-twenty-five rods long and fifteen rods wide.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, August 9</h3>

-

-<p>Writing copy of return of companies of U. S. army all day.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, August 10</h3>

-

-<p>Attending to various business about the wagons all day.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, August 11</h3>

-

-<p>Last night I had a severe chill and felt sick all day mostly with high

-fever. Quite unable to work.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, August 12</h3>

-

-<p>Quite sick, very bad fever all day.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, August 16</h3>

-

-<p>Since Wednesday have scarcely even been out of bed, but kept with

-raging fever all the time. Twice Heber has rebuked my fever but it has

-returned. Through fear and persuasion of my family I have taken some

-pills and medicine given by Dr. Sprague, but seem to grow worse all the

-time. Today I have been very sick. Towards evening my folks concluded

-to get me out of the wagon into the tent where they had prepared a

-bed. Soon after I got into the tent President Young, Dr. Richards,

-G. A. Smith, Orson Pratt, Lorenzo Young and others called to

-see me. When they had been in a few moments President Young called

-O. P. Rockwell into the tent and the feelings we had on seeing him

-cannot be described. He has been in prison some time but when his trial

-came on there was no one to accuse him and the judge discharged him.

-The brethren all laid hands on me and rebuked my disease in the name of

-the Lord, President Young being mouth. I immediately felt easier and

-slept well all night being the first sleep I had had of any account for

-three days and nights.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, August 23</h3>

-

-<p>During the past week I have gained slowly and have been able to walk

-about some. I, however, feel very weak and broken down.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, August 24</h3>

-

-<p>Reading some and fixing a little at my violin. Feel very little better

-but have a better appetite.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, August 25</h3>

-

-<p>We had a thunder storm last night. I do not feel so well this morning

-but took a walk into the woods. I had a very sick day all day.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, August 26</h3>

-

-<p>The morning very cool and cloudy. Let T. Corbitt have a pair of shoes.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, August 27</h3>

-

-<p>Diantha was taken very sick and continued for four or five days.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, August 29</h3>

-

-<p>At night I was seized with fever again and very sick.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, August 30</h3>

-

-<p>Had chill and fever, the chill held me four or five days.</p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-5>September 1846</h2>

-

-<h3>Thursday, September 10</h3>

-

-<p>I still continue very weak and troubled with pain in stomach, etc.

-President Young and Dr. Richards called and brought me a letter from

-David; also said they had got me employment writing at a dollar a day

-or 3c on every hundred words copying.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, September 12</h3>

-

-<p>Still quite unwell. President Young brought me $8.00 in money, one half

-dollar bogus and soon after Dr. Richards sent me some letters to copy

-which I did.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, September 15</h3>

-

-<p>This evening I copied a letter to Joseph F. Herring and having no one

-to send it by I took it to council myself. Before I got half way there

-my knees failed me and it was with great difficulty I got there and

-home again. When I got back to Pitt's shanty my spirit failed me for I

-was not aware of my weakness.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, September 19</h3>

-

-<p>Since Tuesday I have scarcely been out of bed, but today I feel

-somewhat better again.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, September 20</h3>

-

-<p>A little better. I have been told that President Young has virtually

-cursed all who have gone to Missouri or those who shall go hereafter.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, September 21</h3>

-

-<p>This evening about ten o'clock all the men of the camp were ordered

-up armed to meet in this square forthwith. I got up and after a very

-little while quite a company of the brethren got together. President

-Hales informed them that the President had received a letter from Mr.

-Sarpey informing him that two gentlemen from Missouri had informed him

-confidentially that the Missourians had got out writs for the twelve

-and others and were coming with a large force on the west side of the

-river to attack the camp by surprise, etc. He advised the brethren to

-have their arms clean and their ammunition ready at a moment's warning,

-to pray with their families, keep dogs tied up at nights, etc., etc.

-The company was then dismissed except a guard for the camp.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, September 22</h3>

-

-<p>This morning the brethren were ordered to meet at the springs below

-here at nine o'clock. At the sound of the drum the brethren met and

-here organized into four battalions, one of artillery, and three

-of infantry. There were about three hundred brethren present. The

-President then stated that he had received a letter from Sarpey

-informing him that two gentlemen, confidentially, from Missouri had

-informed him that the Missourians were collecting with the sheriff

-of Missouri, their head designing to attack the saints, that they

-had writs, etc., for the twelve and others. He had ordered out the

-brethren that they might be ready in case of necessity and advised

-them to organize and be prepared. Markham was elected Colonel over the

-battalions. Hosea Stout, Lieutenant Colonel over the battalions and

-over the first battalions and over the first battalions of infantry.

-John Scott was elected 1st major and major over the artillery. Henry

-Herriman 2nd major to take command of the 2nd battalion of infantry and

-John S. Gleason 3rd major over the 3rd battalion of infantry. After

-organizing the President addressed the companies and then dismissed

-them. It was advised to quit leaving and move the encampment to the

-fort on the river. A number of teams moved this afternoon.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, September 23</h3>

-

-<p>This morning President Young and many others have moved down to the

-river. Heber told me to wait till the lots were selected and he would

-let me know when to move. My health is improving.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, September 24</h3>

-

-<p>Very cold all day. I did not feel so well. I have been told that Daniel

-H. Wells and William Cutler have arrived in camp and brought a report

-that there has been a battle fought in Nauvoo and some of the brethren

-killed.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, September 25</h3>

-

-<p>I learned today that the mob had made it known that they were coming

-to drive out the "Mormons." The Governor sent an officer to raise

-volunteers to disperse the mob, but the mob learning this they came

-sooner than they had calculated. The brethren being apprised of

-the intentions of the mob prepared to meet them as well as their

-circumstances would permit. Some of the new citizens also made

-preparations to join the brethren. They made five cannon shot of an

-old steam boat shaft. They also filled some barrels with powder, old

-iron, etc., which were buried in the pass to the city which could

-be fired by a slow match but this was of no avail as some traitors

-informed the mob of it, hence they did not come into the settled part

-of the city. On Saturday the 12th inst., the mob made their appearance

-being about twelve hundred in number. The brethren and some of the

-new citizens in the whole about one hundred and sixty went to give

-them battle, but many of the new citizens and some of the brethren

-when they saw the numbers of the mob fled and left about one hundred,

-nearly all brethren, to fight the enemy. The mob had pieces of cannon.

-They met near Boscow's store on Winchester street. The cannon of the

-mob were two blocks from the brethren and the other part of rifle men

-one block from them. The mob fired a number of times into Barlow's old

-barn expecting many of the brethren were concealed there but in this

-they were disappointed, the brethren chiefly lying down on the ground

-behind some shelter and fired in that position. They fought one hour

-and twenty minutes when the mob offered terms of compromise which were

-these, that all the "Mormons" should leave the city within five days

-leaving ten families to finish the unsettled business. The brethren

-consented to this inasmuch as they had been well informed that 1,500

-more were coming to join the mob and they had nothing to expect from

-the authorities of the state. Lyman Johnson, one of the twelve, headed

-a party of the mob from Keokuk, Iowa territory. Three of the brethren

-were killed, viz. William Anderson, his son, and Norris, a blacksmith.

-Three others wounded. The mob would not own to any of their party being

-killed but one person saw them put sixteen men into one wagon and

-handled them more like dead persons than wounded. The ground where they

-stood was pretty much covered with blood, so that there is no doubt

-they had many slain or wounded. They had 150 baggage wagons. Esquire

-Wells took command of the brethren and rode to and fro during the whole

-battle without receiving injury, although the balls whistled by him on

-every side. Amos Davis fought bravely. While running across a plowed

-field he stumbled and fell on his left arm which formed a triangle with

-his head. As he fell a cannon ball passed through the angle of his

-arm between that and his head. Hiram Kimball received a slight wound

-with a musket ball on the forehead. The mob fired sixty-two shots with

-the cannon and ten rounds with the muskets making 12,000 musket balls

-only killing three and wounding three. The brethren did not fire so

-much in proportion but did much more execution. Truly, the Lord fights

-the battles of his saints. The cannon of the brethren was not of much

-service, they would not carry more than a quarter of a mile, whereas

-those of the mob would hold well a half a mile. They shot nine balls

-through a small smith shop, one through Wells' barn and one at his

-house but the ball struck the ground in front of his house and glanced

-through the well curb. The mayor of Quincy watched the battle from the

-tower of the temple and owned that history never afforded a parallel.

-The brethren then began to get their families and effects over the

-river where they remain in a suffering and destitute condition until

-wagons and means are sent from the saints to their relief. On the

-Thursday following, the mob, 1,200 strong, entered the city. 'Tis said

-from good authority that such is the distress and sufferings of the

-saints as actually to draw tears from this mob.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, September 26</h3>

-

-<p>Russell told me that he had selected three lots for us and we could go

-as soon as we had a mind to. He saw Heber on the subject. I made up my

-mind to start on Monday for Winter Quarters.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, September 27</h3>

-

-<p>This morning Brother Smithies came with six yoke of Heber's cattle

-and said we must be ready to start in five minutes while he went to

-water his cattle and although we had everything unprepared we were

-ready before he got back. I felt well enough to drive a team. We

-took six wagons down and camped on the same block with Heber in Cape

-Disappointment. James and Pitt went back to wait for Corbitt who was

-herding cows and in the evening returned with three more wagons.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, September 28</h3>

-

-<p>Got the balance of the wagons and poles, etc., down. I copied three

-letters for Dr. Richards.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, September 29</h3>

-

-<p>Corbitt has started down into the country to fetch potatoes, etc.</p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-0>November 1846</h2>

-

-<h3>Sunday, November 1</h3>

-

-<p>During the last month several times I have been very sick and then

-again would be somewhat better. I still continue to be feeble and

-unable to work. I have one house nearly finished and shall in a few

-days occupy it. Thomas Corbitt has been down the river to fetch a

-load of corn on shares but President Young told me to take the whole

-of it for which I feel very grateful. I have sent my cattle to the

-rushes to be wintered, having but eight tons of hay although James and

-Corbitt worked from twenty-six to thirty days but Russell and Rolfe

-have contrived to work it into their hands, taking as Rolfe said, half

-of Corbitt's hay for herding my cattle while he was in the hay field.

-I think this is as wrong a piece of business as has been played on me

-through the journey.</p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-6>January 1847</h2>

-

-<p><em>Winter Quarters</em></p>

-

-<h3>Friday, January 1</h3>

-

-<p>Morning at the store. At 2:00 p.m. went with Diantha to her father's

-and partook of a roast turkey for dinner. At 4:00 met the band at the

-Basket Shop and played about an hour and a half. The basket makers

-made each of us a present of a new basket and showed their gratitude

-various ways. At 6:00 met with the band at Father Kimball's and played

-for a party till after one o'clock. President Young and Kimball danced

-considerable and all seemed to feel well.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, January 2</h3>

-

-<p>At the store regulating the books and making out Whitney and Woolley's

-account current, etc. About 2:00 p.m. Sarah came and said her mother

-wanted me. Moroni had fallen into the fire and burned himself very

-badly. I went home and found as she said. All over the left side of

-his head burned, his face very badly burned, large blisters round his

-left eye. I immediately applied some consecrated oil and ordered them

-to keep it on all the time. I then returned to the store. Evening

-President Young came and took his hardware bill, domestic drilling,

-etc. About 8:00 p.m. I went home.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, January 3</h3>

-

-<p>Moroni's face seems much better, all except around his left eye which

-looks very bad. I was at the store all day working at Whitney's account

-current which seems very bad to regulate. Evening Heber, his wife

-Ellen, Sarah Ann and Sister Whitney came in to trade and remained till

-about ten o'clock.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, January 4</h3>

-

-<p>At the store all day. Evening waiting on Orson Pratt and Amasa Lyman.

-Paid my tax today, $2.17½ to I. C. Wright.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, January 5</h3>

-

-<p>At the store all day. Evening the band met at my house.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, January 6</h3>

-

-<p>At the store all day, the weather extremely cold.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, January 7</h3>

-

-<p>At the store, the weather still colder than yesterday. Evening went to

-Sister Buel's and took supper of turkey. Afterwards went to Leonard's

-and played for them with Hutchinson and Smithies till 12:00.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, January 8</h3>

-

-<p>At the store again, the weather still colder. Evening the band met at

-my house and played some.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, January 9</h3>

-

-<p>At the store all day. Quite unwell till 9:00 p.m.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, January 10</h3>

-

-<p>At home mostly all day. About 2:00 p.m. went to Hutchinson's to dinner.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, January 11</h3>

-

-<p>At the store all day, the weather more moderate. Margaret and her boy

-doing well. Last night Pitt returned from Missouri.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, January 12</h3>

-

-<p>This morning Ruth began to feel unwell. I went to the store and

-continued settlements as usual. Brothers Lee and Russell returned

-from Missouri, having obtained change for the checks. About 4:00 p.m.

-President Young and J. D. Lee came to Bishop Whitney's and I

-received in gold $496.17, and in silver $1,080.52 out of three checks

-which Lee took value $2,447.32, the balance to be accounted for

-hereafter. Soon as I was through receiving the money, I was informed

-that my folks had sent for me and I went home soon after, found that

-Ruth had brought forth a son twenty minutes after 5:00 p.m. She had a

-pretty hard time, but feels comfortable as can be expected. The boy is

-named Newel Horace. Evening I met with the band at Johnson's and played

-till about 11:00 p.m. The house was very much crowded and not much room

-to dance, but they kept it up freely.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, January 13</h3>

-

-<p>This morning Ruth feels more comfortable. At the store all day waiting

-for Lee and Russel to settle. Evening Russel came and I received from

-him in gold $177.50, and in silver $363.19. He also accounted for

-$150.00 paid to Heber and $30.00 to Daniel Russel out of a check value

-$732.53 leaving him deficit $11.84. Spent the evening at home.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, January 14</h3>

-

-<p>At the store paying out a pair of the money, expecting before I made

-final payments to settle with Lee and Egan.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, January 15</h3>

-

-<p>Spent an hour with Lee and Egan at my house but did not accomplish

-much towards a settlement. Afterwards at the store paying out money,

-settling, etc., filled bills for Pisgah &amp; Garden Grove.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, January 16</h3>

-

-<p>At the store again paying, settling, etc., all day. The weather very

-cold. My folks doing well.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, January 17</h3>

-

-<p>At home mostly all day.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, January 18</h3>

-

-<p>At the store all day, mostly paying money to the soldiers' wives.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, January 19</h3>

-

-<p>At the store paying money, etc.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, January 20</h3>

-

-<p>At the store paying money, etc.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, January 21</h3>

-

-<p>At the store paying money, etc.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, January 22</h3>

-

-<p>At the store paying money, etc. Evening went with Hutchinson to

-Packer's party and played for the party in the smoke till near midnight.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, January 23</h3>

-

-<p>At the store all day paying money, etc. Evening met with Pitt and

-Hutchinson at the council house.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, January 24</h3>

-

-<p>Headache all day having taken cold last evening. Mostly at home. A few

-hours at the store over the river and back. Night played with Pitt

-awhile.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, January 25</h3>

-

-<p>At the store, very busy paying money, etc. Snowed some and is cold.

-Whitney let me have some goods. Evening walked alone.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, January 26</h3>

-

-<p>At the store till 2:00 p.m. Afterward went with the Quadrille Band to

-the Council House agreeably to previous notice and played for a party

-of men (70's) and their families who had assisted in building the

-house. They danced till about midnight. We had plenty to eat and drink

-through the interview and a very pleasant party.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, January 27</h3>

-

-<p>At the store again till noon. At 2:00 p.m. at the Council House with

-the Quadrille Band and played for another company of those who had

-assisted in building the house. We had plenty of refreshments and a

-very sociable party as on yesterday. Broke up again about midnight.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, January 28</h3>

-

-<p>At the store till noon, and then at the Council House with the

-Quadrille Band playing for the third party of those who had assisted in

-building the house, together with the poor basket makers.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, January 29</h3>

-

-<p>At home and the store. Felt quite unwell.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, January 30</h3>

-

-<p>At the store all day settling and paying money to soldiers' wives.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, January 31</h3>

-

-<p>At home all day. Dined with Diantha, Ruth, Margaret and mother Farr on

-a turkey.</p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-7>February 1847</h2>

-

-<h3>Monday, February 1</h3>

-

-<p>At the store all day settling accounts, paying money, etc.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, February 2</h3>

-

-<p>At the store till noon. Afterwards at the Council House with the

-Quadrille Band playing for Brigham's family generally.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, February 3</h3>

-

-<p>At the store till noon. Afterwards at the Council House with the

-Quadrille Band to play for a family meeting of the Young family.

-President Brigham Young was quite sick and seemed very low spirited.

-After the meeting had been opened by prayer, the President called on

-his brothers to stand up by him in the center of the room which they

-did according to age. John Young took his place at the head, then

-Phineas, Joseph, Brigham and Lorenzo. The President then called on

-Heber to take his place in the line inasmuch as he had been recognized

-about fifteen years as a member of the Young family. He took his place

-between Joseph and Brigham. The President then said this was the first

-time that father Young's boys had been together in the same capacity

-for a number of years, etc. After a few remarks the remainder of the

-evening was spent by partaking of a good supper and cheerful dancing

-till about two in the morning, when the party broke up in the best of

-spirits and good feeling.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, February 4</h3>

-

-<p>At the store mostly, evening at home.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, February 5</h3>

-

-<p>At the store till noon, then with the Quadrille Band to play for the

-Silver Greys till midnight.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, February 6</h3>

-

-<p>At the store all day.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, February 7</h3>

-

-<p>At home.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, February 8</h3>

-

-<p>At the store all day.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, February 9</h3>

-

-<p>At the store till 10:00 a.m. Then went with the Quadrille Band in

-Eldridge's carriage to play round the city, but the weather was so cold

-we could not play much. At 2:00 p.m., met with--</p>

-

-<p><em>[No pages from here until April.]</em></p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-9>April 1847</h2>

-

-<p>...into camp from England which will probably detain the camp a few days.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, April 9</h3>

-

-<p>Went with the Quadrille Band over the River as the twelve do not

-start for the Horn today. We played in the boat as we crossed, but in

-returning the wind was high, the boat heavily loaded with cattle and

-dangerous crossing.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, April 10</h3>

-

-<p>At home nearly all day.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, April 11</h3>

-

-<p>At home and Farr's. I told Winslow Farr concerning Hosea Stout's

-threats to take my life after the Twelve are gone, etc. He called at

-night on his return from the Council and told me to be on my guard.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, April 12</h3>

-

-<p>At home all day. Thomas and James had planted a number of garden seeds

-on Saturday. Today, they are cutting wood and preparing to go to the

-farm tomorrow. I have no hay, neither can I get any for my cows and

-horses.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, April 13</h3>

-

-<p>At home most of the day. Thomas and James started for the farm. Evening

-went to the store and told Brigham and Heber about Hosea Stout's

-calculations, etc.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, April 14</h3>

-

-<p>This morning severely pained with rheumatism in my face. At 11:00 a.m.

-Brigham and Dr. Richards came. Brigham told me to rise up and start

-with the pioneers in half an hour's notice. I delivered to him the

-records of the K. of G. and set my folks to work to get my clothes

-together to start with the pioneers. At two o'clock I left my family

-and started in Heber's carriage with Heber and Wm. Kimball and Ellen

-Sanders. Bishop Whitney and Lyman went out with us in another wagon.

-We went about 19 miles and camped on the prairie. After supper Heber

-prayed and we retired to rest.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, April 15</h3>

-

-<p>After eating and prayers by Bishop Whitney, started at half past seven

-and got to the Elk Horn at 11:30. We were all across at 12:00 and there

-we overtook Brigham, G. A. Smith, E. T. Benson and Amasa

-Lyman. We arrived at the pioneers' Camp about 3:00 p.m. This camp is

-about twelve miles from the Elk Horn and about 47 from Winter Quarters.

-I spent the evening with Aaron Farr, Horace Whitney and Jackson Redding.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, April 16</h3>

-

-<p>This day is gloomy, windy and cold. About 8:00 a.m. the camp was called

-together, and organized two captains of 100's viz. Stephen Markham

-and A. P. Rockwood were appointed, also five captains of 50's

-and 14 captains of 10's. There are 143 men and boys on the list of

-the pioneer company, three women and Lorenzo Young's two children.

-There are 73 wagons. C. P. Rockwell has gone back to camp with

-J. C. Little. Bishop Whitney, Lyman, Wm. Kimball and J. B.

-Noble returned from here to Winter Quarters. The following is a list of

-all the names of this pioneer company. To wit:</p>

-

-<p>Wilford Woodruff, John S. Fowler, Jacob Burnham, Orson Pratt, Joseph

-Egbert, John N. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, George A. Smith, George

-Wardle, Thomas Grover, Ezra T. Benson, Barnabas L. Adams, Roswell

-Stevens, Amasa Lyman, Sterling Driggs, Albert Carrington, Thomas

-Bullock, George Brown, Willard Richards, Jesse C. Little, Phineas H.

-Young, John Y. Greene, Thomas Tanner, Brigham Young, Addison Everett,

-Truman O. Angel, Lorenzo Young and wife, Bryant Stringham, Albert

-P. Rockwood, Joseph L. Schofield, Luke Johnson, John Holman, Edmund

-Elsworth, Alvarnus Hanks, George R. Grant, Millen Atwood, Samuel Fox,

-Tunis Rappleyee, Harvey Pierce, William Dykes, Jacob Weiler, Stephen H.

-Goddard, Tarlton Lewis, Henry G. Sherwood, Zebedee Coltrin, Sylvester

-H. Earl, John Dixon, Samuel H. Marble, George Scholes, William Henrie,

-William A. Empey, Charles Shumway, Thomas Woolsey, Chancy Loveland,

-Erastus Snow, Andrew Shumway, James Craig, William Wordsworth, William

-Vance, Simeon Howd, Seeley Owen, James Case, Artemas Johnson, William

-A. Smoot, Franklin B. Dewey, William Carter, Franklin G. Losee, Burr

-Frost, Datus Ensign, Franklin B. Stewart, Monroe Frink, Eric Glines,

-Ozro Eastman, Seth Taft, Horace Thornton, Stephen Kelsey, John S.

-Eldredge, Charles D. Barnum, Alma M. Williams, Rufus Allen, Robert T.

-Thomas, James W. Stuart, Elijah Newman, Levi N. Kendall, Francis Boggs,

-David Grant, Heber C. Kimball, Howard Egan, William A. King, Thomas

-Cloward, Hosea Cushing, Robert Byard, George Billings, Edson Whipple,

-Philo Johnson, William Clayton, Appleton M. Harmon, Carlos Murray,

-Horace K. Whitney, Orson K. Whitney, Orrin P. Rockwell, Nathaniel

-Thomas Brown, R. Jackson Redding, John Pack, Francis M. Pomroy, Aaron

-Farr, Nathaniel Fairbanks, John S. Higbee, John Wheeler, Solomon

-Chamberlain, Conrad Kleinman, Joseph Rooker, Perry Fitzgerald, John H.

-Tippets, James Davenport, Henson Walker, Benjamin Rolfe, Norton Jacobs,

-Charles A. Harper, George Woodard, Stephen Markham, Lewis Barney,

-George Mills, Andrew Gibbons, Joseph Hancock, John W. Norton, Shadrach

-Roundy, Hans C. Hanson, Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, John Brown, Mathew

-Ivory, David Powell, (Hark Lay, Oscar Crosby, blacks) Joseph Mathews,

-Gilbroid Summe, John Gleason, Charles Burke, Alexander P. Chessley,

-Rodney Badger, Norman Taylor, (Green Flake, black) Ellis Eames.</p>

-

-<p>There were 72 wagons, 93 horses, 52 mules, 66 oxen, 19 cows, and 17

-dogs, and chickens.</p>

-

-<p>The names of the females in this camp are: Harriet Page Young, Clarissa

-Decker, and Ellen Sanders. The names of the children are Isaac Perry

-Decker Young and Sabisky L. Young, making a total of 148 souls who have

-started to go west of the mountains as pioneers to find a home where

-the saints can live in peace and enjoy the fruits of their labors,

-and where we shall not be under the dominion of gentile governments,

-subject to the wrath of mobs and where the standards of peace can be

-raised, the Ensign to nations reared and the kingdom of God flourish

-until truth shall prevail, and the saints enjoy the fulness of the

-gospel.</p>

-

-<p>The following are the names of the captains of 50's as appointed at

-this organization, viz. Addison Everett, Tarlton Lewis, James Case,

-John Pack and Shadrack Roundy. The captains of 10's are as follows:</p>

-

-<p>Wilford Woodruff, Ezra T. Benson, Phineas H. Young, Luke Johnson,

-Stephen H. Goddard, Charles Shumway, James Case, Seth Taft, Howard

-Egan, Appleton M. Harmon, John S. Higbee, Norton Jacobs, John Brown,

-Joseph Mathews. For the names of the guard and the gun division see

-under date of April 30th.</p>

-

-<p>Stephen Markham was appointed the Captain of the Guard and ordered to

-select out of the camp, fifty men for guard, such as he had confidence

-in who are to be considered as a standing guard, to attend to the

-wagons each night, twelve of them to stand at a time, and to have

-two sets each night, that is, 12 each watch to stand half the night.

-In cases where the horses and cattle are tied some distance from the

-wagons at night, an extra guard is to be selected from the balance of

-the company or camp, the standing guard not being permitted to leave

-the immediate neighborhood of the wagons. After the organization was

-over, I wrote a letter to Diantha, and put it into the hands of Bishop

-Whitney, together with the one I received yesterday from father and

-I. McEwan, also the one from Ellen to James. Up to 12:00 a.m. I had

-no place to put my trunk and clothing, and did not know what to do

-with them. However, soon after Heber told me to put them in Appleton

-M. Harmon's wagon, which was done. At 2:00 p m. the camp started out

-to proceed on the journey. I bid farewell to to Bishop Whitney and

-his brother Lyman and son Joshua, who all returned from this place,

-also Wm. H. Kimball and Joseph B. Noble. We traveled about three miles

-and encamped in a line about six hundred yards from timber, where

-there is plenty of cottonwood and some rushes. This night I slept

-with Philo Johnson, but having only one quilt, and the night severely

-cold, I suffered much, and took a very bad cold. The country in the

-neighborhood of the Elk Horn is one of the most beautiful I ever saw.

-The bluffs on the east are nicely rolling and beautifully lined with

-timber, and some very nice cedar groves. From these bluffs a little

-above the ferry you can see the meanderings of the Platte River, and

-the beautiful level bottom on the north of it, about fifteen miles wide

-for many miles up the river. The Horn is a beautiful river about 150

-feet wide and about four feet deep.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, April 17</h3>

-

-<p>This morning the weather is severely cold, with a strong wind from the

-north and northwest. We started out at nine o'clock and traveled till

-near 12:00 the distance being about seven miles. We camped close by a

-cottonwood grove, and the brethren fell hundreds of them to feed their

-teams and save corn. There is a small lake close by but the water is

-not good and the brethren go to the river about a half a mile. At 5:00

-p.m. the camps were called together and organized in military order as

-follows:</p>

-

-<p>Brigham Young, Lieutenant General.</p>

-

-<p>Stephen Markham, Colonel.</p>

-

-<p>John Pack and Shadrack Roundy, Majors.</p>

-

-<p>The captains of 10's to be captains of 10's in this order, except John

-Pack, who being appointed major, Appleton M. Harmon was appointed

-captain in his stead.</p>

-

-<p>Thomas Bullock, clerk of the camp. Thomas Tanner captain of the cannon

-with the privilege of choosing eight men to manage it in case of

-necessity. The President then said: "After we start from here, every

-man must keep his loaded gun in his hand, or in the wagon where he

-can put his hand on it at a moment's warning. If they are cap locks,

-take off the cap and put on a little leather to keep wet and etc. out.

-If flint locks, take out the priming and fill the pan with twine or

-cotton," etc.</p>

-

-<p>The wagons must keep together when traveling, and not separate as they

-have previously done, and every man to walk beside his own wagon, and

-not leave it only by permission. A while before evening one of the

-trader's wagons came from the Pawnee village, loaded with furs and

-peltry, and camped about one quarter of a mile below us. At night Eames

-and Hanson played some on their violins. All peace and quietness. At

-night I slept with Egan in Heber's wagon, Heber being gone to sleep

-with President Young.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, April 18</h3>

-

-<p>This morning I wrote a letter for Heber to his wife Vilate, which was

-sent by Brother Ellis Eames who has concluded to go back on account of

-poor health, spitting blood, etc. He started back with the trader's

-wagon about eight o'clock a.m. The wind this morning east and southeast

-and very cold, with a slight shower of snow. At 10:00 a.m. seven more

-traders' wagons came in and stopped about one quarter of a mile below

-us, soon after six mules loaded with robes and furs. These traders

-say they have come from the Pawnee village in two days. Brother

-Roundy got some Buffalo meat from them and gave me a little, which

-I thought tasted very good. I commenced writing Heber's journal and

-wrote considerable. He wants me to write his journal all the journey.

-I also wrote considerable in this book. Afternoon the weather more

-moderate and pleasant, the wind has changed near south and the sun

-shines. I walked with Horace Whitney to the river which is about a

-half a mile. At 4:30 p.m. father James Case was cutting a cottonwood

-tree to brouse his horses, and just as it fell the wind struck it and

-threw it directly contrary to the direction he intended it to fall. The

-consequence was, one of the limbs struck an ox on the neck and knocked

-him down. His right eye was knocked down in the socket out of sight.

-The ox doesn't seem seriously hurt otherwise. About 10 minutes after it

-was done, the eye turned back to its place, and the ox seems to have

-sustained little injury. At 5:00 p.m., the officers of the camp met

-with President Young, and he told the order for traveling and camping

-hereafter, which was communicated to the companies by the captains of

-10's as follows:</p>

-

-<p>At 5:00 in the morning the bugle is to be sounded as a signal for

-every man to arise and attend prayers before he leaves his wagon. Then

-cooking, eating, feeding teams, etc., till seven o'clock, at which time

-the camp is to move at the sound of the bugle. Each teamster to keep

-beside his team, with his loaded gun in his hands or in his wagon where

-he can get it in a moment. The extra men, each to walk opposite his

-wagon with his loaded gun on his shoulder, and no man to be permitted

-to leave his wagon unless he obtains permission from his officer. In

-case of an attack from Indians or hostile appearances, the wagons to

-travel in double file. The order of encampment to be in a circle with

-the mouth of the wagon to the outside, and the horses and stock tied

-inside the circle. At 8:30 p.m. the bugle to be sounded again at which

-time all to have prayers in their wagons and to retire to rest by nine

-o'clock. Tonight I went to bed about seven-thirty o'clock suffering

-severely with pain in my head and face. I slept with Philo Johnson.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, April 19</h3>

-

-<p>At 5:00 a.m., at the sound of the bugle I arose, my face still paining

-me very badly. After eating breakfast, I started out on foot, before

-the wagons started, with my rifle on my shoulder. At 7:15 the wagons

-began to move and at 7:30 were all formed in double file and proceeded

-on. After traveling about eight miles we arrived at a number of small

-lakes, where were many ducks. A number of the brethren shot at them and

-killed several. At 1:15 p.m. we arrived at a bend in the river where a

-small stream runs around an island.</p>

-

-<p>We stayed here to feed awhile, having traveled about fifteen miles

-mostly a western course with the wind south. The roads very good and

-the country very level on these flat bottoms of the Platte river

-which bottoms appear to be from ten to fifteen miles wide. Soon

-after the camp was formed, O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding, and

-J. C. Little came in from Winter Quarters. They arrived at 2:10.

-They have found Dr. Richard's mare which was lost east of the Elk

-Horn and brought her to camp. They brought me a line from Diantha

-and one from Ruth and Margaret. In the last was a very gentle piece

-of information which has caused me to reflect much, and proves to me

-that Ruth and Margaret's virtue and integrity have for the last year

-been far superior to mine. In my letter to them I requested them to

-attend to family prayer in my absence, a thing which I have neglected

-since leaving Nauvoo. They informed me that they had done that when I

-was at home but unknown to me, and they had then, and still continue

-to bear me up before their Heavenly Father. Oh, what integrity, what

-faithfulness. I feel unworthy to possess two such treasures, but still

-feel to try to reward them for it, and may my Father in heaven bless

-them, and all my family and let his angels guard them, and me during

-my absence that we may all be permitted to meet again and enjoy each

-other's society in this world for many years to come, and eternal

-in the world to come. O! Lord, grant this prayer of thine unworthy

-servant, and fill my family with peace and union, and open a way that

-they may have the necessaries and comforts of life, and Thy name shall

-have the praise, even so, amen.</p>

-

-<p>I received by Porter, some few fish hooks and lines, a ball of fish

-line and three pencils, but no small hooks nor knives or wafers. At

-twenty minutes after 3:00 p.m. the wagons began to move again, in the

-same order as this morning and traveled until 6:00 p.m. when we arrived

-at a very pretty open view of the Platte river, and the encampment was

-formed in a semi-circle on its banks, having traveled since noon, about

-five miles, and in the whole day 20 miles, over the same kind of dry,

-level, sandy bottom. The river here appears to be about a mile wide

-but very shoal. There is not much timber where we are camped, and the

-water is pretty muddy. I walked some this afternoon in company with

-Orson Pratt and suggested to him the idea of fixing a set of wooden cog

-wheels to the hub of a wagon wheel, in such order as to tell the exact

-number of miles we travel each day. He seemed to agree with me that it

-could be easily done at a trifling expense. After the encampment was

-formed, I went to Brother Luke Johnson and asked him to draw my tooth

-which has pained me so much for a long time. While I was speaking to

-him Stephen Markham came up, and wanted him to take his team and the

-Revenue Cutter the name by which the leather boat is called back about

-two miles, as they designed to seine in one of the lakes. Brother Luke

-Johnson drives the team which draws the boat and rides in the boat as

-in a wagon. I concluded I would go and watch them fish and started out

-on foot. I overtook Markham and John S. Higbee and in our conversation

-I mentioned to Brother John S. Higbee the same idea I had advanced to

-Orson Pratt, and he also seemed to coincide fully. After arriving at

-the lake they launched the boat and made three hauls. They only caught

-a snapping turtle, four small turtles, one duck, two small cat fish,

-and two creek suckers. They then concluded to return and I started on

-foot again with two rifles to carry. I got back to camp before they

-overtook me and being perfectly tired and very footsore, went to bed,

-but had no rest on account of the severe pain in my head and face.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, April 20</h3>

-

-<p>Arose at 5:30, my head and face very bad indeed. I ate but little

-breakfast, although we had a couple of ducks and a snipe. We started

-out at 7:30, the morning pleasant except a strong west wind. At 9:15

-arrived at Shell creek, which is about six or eight feet wide, and a

-poor bridge over it, but all the wagons got well over. This is about

-five miles from where we camped last night. We then passed through a

-small grove of timber, and entered again upon the wide, open prairie

-bottom. At 11:30 we stopped beside a small slough or lake to feed and

-eat, etc., being five miles from Shell creek. While stopping here,

-three deer passed about half a mile west of the wagons. O. P.

-Rockwell and Thomas Brown chased them on horses four or five miles, but

-did not succeed in taking any of them. The wind has fallen considerably

-and it is very warm and dusty. At 1:00 p.m. started again, the horse

-teams taking the lead, traveled about ten miles farther and encamped

-near a cotton wood grove on the banks of the river. The encampment was

-formed about half past five. Tanner's bellows and anvil were set up and

-a number of tires set before dark.</p>

-

-<p>John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, S. Markham, and some others, started

-ahead of the camp about noon, and went about two miles farther than

-this place to a lake with the boat and seine. They took over 200 very

-nice fish, and arrived with them about the time the camp was formed.

-The fish were distributed around the camp according to the number of

-persons in each wagon, generally two to a wagon, and the brethren

-enjoyed a good supper on fish. I went to the river and washed my feet

-which were very dusty and sore. I also washed my socks as well as I

-could in cold water without soap. After Brother Luke Johnson had got

-through distributing fish, I went and asked him to draw my tooth. He

-willingly agreed and getting his instruments, I sat down in a chair,

-he lanced the gum, then took his nippers and jerked it out. The whole

-operation did not take more than one minute. He only got half the

-original tooth, the balance being left in the jaw. After this my head

-and face pained me much more than before. I ate but little supper and

-then lay down, but could not sleep for pain till near morning. The

-evening was very calm and pleasant.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, April 21</h3>

-

-<p>Arose at 5:00, my face easier, but swollen and my gums raw. Took

-breakfast on fish and coffee, but ate no bread, it being very dry and

-hard. I could not bear to put it in my mouth. At seven started on

-foot; the ox teams being gone ahead. Some appearances of rain, and a

-slight shower fell. Wind northeast and pretty cool. At ten minutes to

-nine an Indian rode up to the first wagon and appeared very friendly.

-Soon after six or eight others came running on foot. They came from

-the timber about a mile to the left. At 10:00 we arrived at a fork in

-the road, the one on the left leading to the new Pawnee village, and

-the one to the right leaving the village some distance to the south. A

-consultation was held by President Young with father Case relative to

-the roads crossing the river, etc., when it was concluded to take the

-right hand road. We proceeded accordingly and at 12:00 came in sight

-of the new Pawnee village, in an open spot on the south bank of the

-Loop Fork, between two bodies of timber. The village appeared to be

-about three quarters of a mile south of the road we were on. At 12:30

-we were opposite the village, and could then see distinctly upwards

-of 100 lodges set pretty close together, and appeared to be ranged in

-several lines, and set in good order. We proceeded until we arrived at

-a long narrow lake by the side of the timber and near to the river. At

-1:00 p.m. the encampment was formed on the bank of the lake and a guard

-instantly placed at the passes, as many of the Indians had followed us,

-although they had to wade the river, but it is very shoal. One of the

-Indians presented several certificates from persons who had previously

-traveled through their village, all certifying that the Grand Chief of

-the Pawnees was friendly disposed, and they had made him presents of

-a little powder, lead, salt, etc. Heber gave them a little tobacco,

-and a little salt. President Young gave to the chief, some powder,

-lead, salt and a number of the brethren gave a little flour each. The

-old chief, however, did not seem to think the presents sufficient,

-and said he did not like us to go west through their country, he was

-afraid we should kill their buffalo and drive them off. Brother Shumway

-told him we did not like buffalo, but this does not appear to give

-him much satisfaction. However, there was no appearance of hostility.

-In fact, all that came to camp seemed highly pleased to shake hands

-with our brethren and would run from one side to another so as not

-to miss one. A number of the squaws were on the opposite side of the

-lake with mattocks digging roots. Brother Shumway says there are

-about twelve thousand of the Pawnees in this neighborhood, and it is

-reported that there are five thousand warriors. We did not see many of

-them. Larpy is at their village trading, and it is uncertain whether

-he will endeavor to use an influence for us or against us. We have no

-fear, however, because their only object appears to be plunder, and it

-is the calculation to be well prepared by night and day. During the

-resting hour I spent the time writing in my journal. At 2:15 p.m. the

-ox teams started out again and the horse teams soon after. The weather

-had been calm and pleasant for a few hours, but about 2:00 or a little

-before, some heavy clouds began to gather, and thunder was heard at a

-distance. About 2:30 the rain began to descend heavily, accompanied by

-heavy peals of thunder and vivid lightning which continued till about

-4:00. A strong north wind blew up, the rain and thunder ceased and the

-weather grew very cold. We traveled till 5:30 and the encampment was

-formed on the Loop Fork of the Platte river. After the encampment was

-formed and teams turned out, the brethren were all called together and

-some remarks made by President Young, advising them to have a strong

-guard round the camps tonight. He called for volunteers to stand guard

-and about 100 volunteered amongst whom were all the twelve except Dr.

-Richards. This guard was divided into two companies of fifty each, one

-company to stand the first half the night, and the remainder the last

-half. Those of the twelve who stood took the first watch till 1:00.

-Brigham and Heber both stood on guard. Out of the companies a party

-were stationed as a picket guard some distance from the camp, the

-balance stood near the camp. The night was very cold, with a strong

-wind from the northeast, and in the middle of the night, it rained

-considerable. Our course this morning was about west. This afternoon,

-northwest. We are now within three miles from the bluffs on the north.

-We have traveled today about twenty miles, the roads being good and

-very level. The grass here is short but looks good. The buffalo grass

-is very short and curly like the hair on a buffalo robe. The spring

-grass doesn't seem to be as early here as at the Elk Horn, and the last

-year's growth not being burnt off, will be rather a disadvantage to

-the spring companies. I have noticed all the way on this bottom from

-the Elk Horn, that the ground is full of wild onions which appear far

-richer and larger than any wild onions I ever saw. I have no idea that

-corn would grow here for the land is very dry and loose and sandy, and

-appears poor. The country is beautiful and pleasing to the eye of the

-traveler, although you can only see one kind of scenery for several

-days.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, April 22</h3>

-

-<p>Arose soon after 5:00 a.m., my face very painful again caused by the

-cold. There has been no trouble from the Indians and all is peace and

-safe. The cannon was prepared for action, and stood all night just

-outside the wagons. There was considerable joking this morning on

-account of two of the picket guard having their guns stolen and Colonel

-Markham having his hat stolen. The owners were found asleep while on

-guard and those who found them so, took their guns to be a warning

-to them, but it is difficult for men to keep awake night after night

-after traveling 20 miles in the day, taking care of teams, cooking,

-etc. At 7:30 the camp proceeded again. I went ahead on foot. About one

-quarter of a mile from where we camped is one of the prettiest beds

-of nettle I have seen for some time. Our road this morning lay beside

-pretty heavy timber, and about a westerly course. After traveling two

-miles, crossed Looking Glass creek, a small stream about a rod wide,

-but easily forded. I still went ahead on foot and at 9:45 sat down on

-an Indian grave, on top of a mound from whence is a splendid view of

-the surrounding country for many miles. From southeast to southwest you

-can see the course of the Loop Fork for a number of miles. Northwest a

-level prairie about four miles and then a range of timber. The bluffs

-on the north about seven miles distant, and on the east a level prairie

-for about twenty miles. At this place there is a range of what appears

-to be mounds about a quarter of a mile long, running from northeast to

-southwest. At 12:15 we arrived on the east bank of Beaver River, having

-traveled about ten miles. This stream is about twenty to twenty-five

-feet wide; swift, clear water and pleasant tasting. The banks are

-tolerably well lined with timber. Here we stopped to feed. Some of the

-brethren went to fix the fording place a little, the banks are steep

-on each side and the water a little over two feet deep. At 2:00 p.m.

-started again, the ox teams first. When passing the river a number of

-the brethren stood on the west bank with a long rope which was hooked

-to the wagon tongue and they assisted the teams up the bank. The wagon

-I rode in crossed at two minutes after 2:00, and in a little while all

-were safely over. We proceeded on till half past five, when we arrived

-at the Pawnee Missionary station which is about seven miles from Beaver

-River. The country this afternoon was more uneven, there being many

-steep ditches and rises. The grass appears longer and there is much

-rosing weed. The soil looks black and no doubt would yield a good crop

-of corn. This missionary station was deserted last fall, and Brother

-Miller's company being camped here, they carried the missionaries

-and their effects to Bellview on the Missouri river. This is a very

-beautiful place for a location. On the north and west it is surrounded

-by bluffs, on the south by the Loop Fork at about three quarters of a

-mile distance. On the east by descending prairie. The Plumb Creek runs

-through it, and but a few rods from the missionaries' house. Its banks

-are lined with a little timber. There is also a steep bank on each

-side, and between these banks in the valley which is a few rods wide,

-the Sioux have practiced coming down when they have made their attacks

-on the Pawnees. The ravine is certainly well calculated to shelter

-an enemy from observation when designing to make a sudden attack.

-There are a number of good log houses here, considerable land under

-improvement enclosed by rail fences, and a good quantity of hay and

-fodder, large lots of iron, old and new, several plows and a drag. All

-apparently left to rot. There are also two stoves, etc. The government

-station is a quarter of a mile below, or south where father Case lived

-as government farmer and received $300.00 a year for it, but when Major

-Harvey learned at the last payday, which was last November, that father

-Case had joined the "Mormons" he very politely dismissed him from the

-government service. The Sioux came down sometime ago and burned up

-the government station houses, blacksmith shop and everything, but

-the missionary station they did not touch. This place according to

-my account is 134 miles from Winter Quarters, and a lovely place to

-live. Before dark the President called the camp together, and told

-them they might use the fodder and hay for their teams, but forbade

-any man carrying anything away, even to the value of one cent. He said

-he had no fears of the Pawnees troubling us here, but we had better be

-prepared lest the Sioux should come down and try to steal horses. A

-guard was selected and a picket guard to watch the ravine to the north.

-The cannon was also prepared and Brother Tanner drilled his men to use

-it till dark. At 9:00 p.m. I retired to rest and slept well through the

-night. The variation of the compass is about 12 degrees at this place.</p>

-

-<p>I again introduced the subject of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to

-tell the distance we travel, describing the machinery and time it would

-take to make it, etc., several caught, the idea and feel confident of

-its success.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, April 23</h3>

-

-<p>Arose this morning at 5:30, my face bad again through sleeping cold.

-The air chilly but a very pleasant morning. President Young, Heber and

-others are gone to the river to ascertain where we can best ford it.

-There is a ford a little distance from here, and another about four

-miles above, but the latter is in the neighborhood of another band of

-the Pawnees and they are desirous to avoid it if possible. They started

-out on horseback at a quarter to eight and the camp remained here till

-they returned. Some are working, some fixing wagons, etc. The day is

-now warm and very pleasant. I went to Plumb creek and washed my feet

-which are very sore. The brethren returned at a quarter to 12:00 and

-reported that we would have to go about four miles and there build

-a raft. Tarlton Lewis was appointed to superintend the building of

-the raft. President Young then stated in regard to the plows, iron,

-etc., which lies around here, for the government is owing father Case

-considerable for services, and he has the privilege of taking this for

-his pay. He will do it and if the brethren want the iron, etc., they

-can have by hauling it, one half, and father Case the other half, and

-he (Case) will write and inform them what he has done. I started on

-foot about 12:00 and viewed the ruins of buildings, etc., which the

-Sioux have burned. There is a large quantity of good bar iron, and a

-number of plows, which the brethren put into their wagons on the terms

-proposed by father Case. Two miles from Plumb creek, passed another

-creek not very good to ford, although it is narrow but sandy. Two miles

-farther arrived at the intended crossing place, but the prospect looks

-dull for rafting on account of sandbars and very rapid current. My feet

-were so sore and blistered I could not walk for some time after I got

-there. The sun is very hot and no wind. At 3:20 the wagons arrived and

-prepared to ford the river. Luke Johnson was the first who went over,

-leaving the boat on this side, and although he had no load, nor even a

-wagon box, it was with difficulty he got over. Orson Pratt started next

-with a part of his load. When he had got in about a rod, his horses

-began to sink some in the sand and they could not draw. A number of the

-brethren jumped in and lifted at the wheels, etc., till they got him to

-the bar in the middle. He then started for the other bar and about half

-way across his horses sank in the quicksand so badly that one of them

-fell down. A number of the men immediately went to his assistance and

-took them off the wagon and led them across to the sand bar. President

-Young went over in the boat and took the loading out of the carriage

-into the boat. The carriage was drawn to the sand bar by men with a

-long rope. The brethren then assisted Elder Woodruff's team over in

-the same way, also John Pack's and Wordsworth's. President Young then

-ordered that no more wagons should go over that way, but move up the

-river about a quarter of a mile and camp until morning. The camp was

-formed about 5:30 p.m. The river is not more than two feet deep, but

-there are a great many beds of quicksand which are dangerous to teams,

-and calculated to shake a wagon to pieces. They make a noise when

-crossing the quicksands as if they were going over a stone pavement.</p>

-

-<p>The country here is indeed beautiful and appears rich, but there is

-very little timber. After crossing Plumb creek, there is plowed land

-for nearly two miles on the right but not fenced. It appears to have

-yielded a good crop of corn. The land on the left to the river is level

-and beautiful for a farm. We are now camped about a quarter of a mile

-from the old Pawnee village on a splendid table of land, level and

-pleasant as heart could desire. It is not much over three quarters of

-a mile wide and shielded on the north by beautiful rolling bluffs and

-on the south by the Loop Fork of the Platte. From this bank can be seen

-the timber on the banks of the main Platte, the bottom from here to it

-appears very level. There is something romantic in the scenery around

-here, and the prospect cannot well be exaggerated.</p>

-

-<p>In the evening the captains of tens were called together and a vote

-taken to build two light rafts, Tarlton Lewis to superintend one and

-Thomas Woolsey the other. As many loads of property as can be carried

-over in the boat will be done, and the teams with empty wagons will

-ford it. It is said that by going over several times with teams the

-sand will pack down and be good crossing, several of those who have

-been across believe this from today's experience and they calculate to

-give it a fair trial tomorrow. Amongst the rest of those who waded the

-river to help the wagons over, Brother Kimball joined and assisted one

-team to the other side, and then returned in the boat with President

-Young.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, April 24</h3>

-

-<p>Arose soon after 5:00. Morning fine, but cool. One of Phineas Young's

-horses was choked to death last night. It appears he was tied to a

-stake with a chain near a steep hole in the ravine, and either stepped

-back or lay down and rolled over into the hole, and the chain being

-short he was choked to death, having no power to extricate himself.

-This is a grievous loss for there are no more teams in the camp than

-what are absolutely necessary, and in fact, there are hardly enough to

-get along very comfortably. By request of Brother Kimball, I went up to

-the old Indian village immediately after breakfast to take a view of

-it, and write a description as near as circumstances would permit which

-is as follows:</p>

-

-<p>This village is situated on the north bank of the Loop Fork of the

-Nebraska or Platte river, about four miles southwest of the mission

-station on Plumb creek and 138 miles from Winter Quarters. The Pawnee

-nation is divided into four bands. The names of the bands are the Grand

-Pawnee, the Loop, the Tappas, and the Republican. When the nation

-settled in this region the Grand Pawnees and the Tappas located on the

-west bank of Plumb creek and the Loops located on this spot and were

-afterwards joined by the Republicans. When the Sioux made war on the

-Indians at the first settlement and destroyed their village, the Grand

-Chief saw that his party were unable to cope with their hostile foes

-alone, and it was concluded that the four bands should locate together

-on this spot, but notwithstanding this, the Sioux succeeded in burning

-this village last summer during the absence of the Pawnees when on

-their hunt. They rebuilt most of it again, but last fall the Sioux

-made another attack and burned the whole village except one dwelling

-or lodge, which is not harmed. There are three or four others but

-partially destroyed, the rest are entirely demolished and levelled with

-the ground. The Pawnees then moved to the place where we passed them a

-few days ago, and are dwelling in their lodges made of hides, etc. The

-name of the Grand Chief is Shefmolan, who is also the superior chief

-of the Pawnee band. All documents or treaties made by the nation are

-signed by this chief and the nation is then bound by them. The head

-chief of the Loup band is named Siscatup, the other chiefs, father Case

-did not recollect their names. From him I obtained this information.

-There is a part of the Loup band on the main Platte, some distance from

-here, who have never yielded to the government treaties, but stand out

-from the rest of the nation and spend their time mostly in plundering

-other tribes as well as travelers. They frequently go as far as the

-Cherokee nation to rob and plunder. All the Pawnee nation are noted for

-their love of plundering travelers of their horses and mules, but not

-often anything else.</p>

-

-<p>On the east and west of the village is a beautiful level bench of

-prairie extending many miles, and to the ridge of bluffs which run

-east and west touching within a mile of the village. On the top of the

-bluffs can be seen a number of Indian graves. To the northwest about

-a mile distant, and at the foot of the bluffs is an extensive corn

-field, the stalks still standing. On the south is a beautiful view of

-the nice level prairie extending to the main branch of the Platte, the

-timber on the banks can be faintly, but plainly seen. The Loup Fork

-is probably about 400 yards wide at this place and very shoal, except

-a narrow channel near the shore on this side which is probably three

-feet deep. The bottom is mostly quicksand and not safe fording. About

-half the surface from bank to bank is sand bars which appear above the

-surface of the water mostly on the south side. There are several small

-islands and a little timber to the right or west. The village occupies

-a space of about 40 acres of land, and is mostly enclosed by a ditch

-about five feet wide, and a bank inside the ditch about four feet high,

-running from the bank of the river around the village till it again

-strikes the bank, and when perfect, has formed a good fortification. A

-number of lodges are built outside the ditch on the east and on account

-of want of room inside when the bands from the other village joined

-them. The village is composed of about 200 houses or lodges varying

-in size but all similarly constructed, as appears from the remnants

-of some left standing. While I take this sketch, I sit in the one

-left unharmed, which it is said was owned by the chief Siscatup, and

-as the lodges are all constructed in the same manner, only differing

-in size, I will endeavor to describe the way in which this is built.

-In the first place, the earth is dug out a little, slanting to the

-depth of about 18 inches in the form of a perfect circle about 44 feet

-in diameter. This forms the floor of the dwelling. Then there are 17

-crotch posts let into the floor in a direction slanting outward so that

-the top of the crotch is about perpendicular with the outside of the

-circle, the foot being set about 18 or 20 inches from the base of the

-circle. These posts are arranged at about equal distances from each

-other around the circle. In the crotches, poles are laid across from

-crotch to crotch, and are sufficiently high for the tallest man to

-stand upright under them. At the distance of 18 or 20 inches from the

-outside of the circle are many smaller poles let into the surface of

-the ground, on an average of about a foot apart and leaning inward so

-that the top of the poles rest on the cross pieces which are supported

-by the crotches. The space between the foot of these poles and the edge

-of the circle forms a bench for seats entirely around the house, and

-there is room sufficient for more than a hundred men to seat themselves

-on it very comfortably. On the outside of these last mentioned poles

-are laid a number of still smaller poles horizontally from bottom to

-top from about 9 inches to a foot apart, these are lashed fast to

-the upright poles by strings made of bark. On the outside of these

-is laid a thick layer of long prairie grass and occasionally lashed

-through to the upright poles also. The whole is then covered with

-earth about two feet in thickness at the bottom and gradually thinner

-towards the top. This forms an enclosure when completed around the

-whole area about seven feet high, a place being left sufficiently large

-for the door. The next process is to place erect ten upright poles or

-crotches, very stout, being about a foot in diameter about seven feet

-nearer the center of the circle than the first crotches. These are set

-perpendicular, deep in the ground and also arranged at about equal

-distances from each other, and form a strong foundation which is the

-design and use to which they are appropriated. On the top of these

-pillars are also horizontal poles laid strong and firm, the top of the

-pillars being about eleven or twelve feet above the floor. Long small

-poles are then laid from the outside horizontal poles over the inner

-ones and sufficiently long to meet at the top within about two feet

-of each other, forming a hole for the smoke from the fire to ascend

-through. These long poles are laid pretty close together all around

-the building, and across them smaller ones are lashed with bark as in

-the first instance, only they are much closer together. The operation

-of lashing on a layer of long grass and finally covering the whole

-with earth, completes the roof of the building. The door or entrance

-is a long porch formed by placing in the earth four upright posts or

-crotches far enough apart to extend outwards from the circle, about 18

-or 20 feet. There are four upright crotches on each side the porch and

-in the crotches, poles are laid horizontally as in the other parts of

-the building. The process of lashing sticks across, then a thick coat

-of long grass and lastly a stout coat of earth, is the same as the

-other parts of the building. The roof of the porch is flat and is about

-seven feet high and six feet wide. The porch is dug down about half

-as deep as the main building, making a short step at the mouth of the

-porch and another one at the entrance into the house. The fire has been

-made in the center of the house directly under the hole in the roof.</p>

-

-<p>At the farther side of the building, exactly opposite the porch, is

-a projection of sod left about a foot from the outside of the circle

-which is said to have been the seat of the chief, and over which hung

-his medicine bag and other implements.</p>

-

-<p>The crotches are arranged so that there is a free passage to the center

-of the hall from the porch one standing on each side at the entrance

-about six feet apart and the others appear to be arranged from them.

-The smaller houses have not so many pillars as this one. Some have

-eight in the center and sixteen outside the circle. Others have four

-in the center and ten outside. The entrances are also smaller in

-proportion, but all are constructed on the same principle. It looks a

-little singular to note that nearly all the entrances to these lodges

-front to the southeast, except in one or two instances where they front

-in other directions for lack of room. It is probable that this is done

-to avoid the effects of the severe cold northwest winds so prevalent in

-winter.</p>

-

-<p>Adjacent to each lodge is a stable or pen, which has been designed for

-keeping horses in. These are mostly left unharmed. They are constructed

-by placing poles upright in the ground from two to three inches in

-diameter as close together as possible and about ten feet high. About

-five or six feet above the ground cross poles are laid horizontally,

-and each of the upright poles are firmly lashed to the cross poles by

-strips of bark, so as to make them firm and secure them from being

-moved out of their place. The stables are mostly built square, with

-a door left on one side sufficiently large to admit a horse. There

-are some circular stables but not so many as the square ones. The

-horses appear to have been penned in by placing loose poles across the

-doorway, for there is no other sign of a door visible.</p>

-

-<p>Around each lodge there are also several cachets where corn and other

-necessities are deposited. The cachets are large holes dug in the

-ground, or rather under the ground, the entrance being only just large

-enough to admit a common sized man. They are made pretty much after the

-shape of a large demijon. The cachets are generally about six feet high

-inside and about fifteen feet in diameter; there is a gradual slope

-from the mouth to the extreme corner and a little bowing, which forms

-the roof. The surface of the earth above, at the mouth, is about two

-and a half or three feet deep. Some of these are said to be capable of

-holding a hundred bushels of corn, and when filled there is a thick

-coat of grass laid on the top and the mouth then filled up nicely with

-earth, and when finished a stranger would not have the least suspicion

-that there was a storehouse full of corn under his feet.</p>

-

-<p>I finished taking the foregoing sketch soon after noon, and then had

-intended to go on the bluffs and examine the Indian graves, but it

-being very warm, and perceiving the teams crossing the river very

-rapidly, I returned, and found most of the teams over. They commenced

-crossing about eight o'clock, some unloaded their goods on the bank

-which were carried in the boat to the sand bar, the teams going down to

-the ferry to cross. After a few wagons had gone over, it was perceived

-that they went over with less difficulty, and by doubling teams they

-soon took over the loaded wagons without much difficulty. I prepared

-to wade over the river, inasmuch as the wagon I am with was gone over,

-and in fact, all Heber's wagons were over except one, but Jackson

-Redding brought me Porter Rockwell's horse to ride over, and I mounted

-and proceeded. I found the current strong indeed, and about as much as

-a horse could do to ford it without a load. I soon got over safe and

-wet only my feet. At 3:00 p.m. the last wagon was over on the solid

-sand bar, and about four o'clock all the wagons and teams were safely

-landed on the bank on the south side of the Loop Fork without any loss

-or accident, which made the brethren feel thankful indeed. A little

-before four, the wagons started on to find a better place to camp and

-feed for our teams, where we can stay comfortable until Monday and give

-the teams a chance to rest, for they as well as the men are very tired

-by wading against the strong current on the quick sand. The bottom

-land on this side is more sandy than on the other side, but the grass

-appears higher but not so thick on the ground. The bluffs on the other

-side look beautiful from here, and the Indian graves show very plain.

-We went on about three miles and camped beside a small lake near the

-river. I traveled this on foot. Soon as we arrived Porter Rockwell

-discovered that there were many sun fish in the lake. I took a couple

-of hooks and lines, handed some to him, and went to fishing myself

-with the others and we had some fine sport. I caught a nice mess which

-Brother Egan cooked for supper, and although they were small they made

-a good dish. Many of the brethren caught a good mess each. Brother

-Higbee came down with the seine and made two hauls but caught none on

-account of the grass in the bottom of the lake. We have good reasons

-to suspect that we are watched by the Indians as their footsteps have

-been seen on the bluffs south, apparently very fresh, but the guard are

-faithful and we have no fear. The cannon was prepared again so as to be

-ready in case there should be an attack. Evening I walked over to Orson

-Pratt's wagon, and through his telescope saw Jupiter's four moons very

-distinctly never having seen them before. I went over to my wagon and

-looked through my glass and could see them with it, but not so distinct

-as with Orson's. The evening was very fine and pleasant. About ten

-o'clock retired to rest in good health and spirits, thankful for the

-mercies of the day that is past.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, April 25</h3>

-

-<p>Arose soon after five, shaved and changed some of my clothing. The

-morning very pleasant, wind west. Our course for the last seven miles

-has been about southwest. We are about 14 miles from the main branch

-of the Platte river and it is said that if we travel on this fork one

-hundred miles farther, we shall then be not over thirty miles from the

-main branch. This morning saw four antelope on the other bank of the

-river about a mile and a half northwest. Afternoon Elijah Newman was

-baptized by Tarlton Lewis in the lake for the benefit of his health.

-Brother Newman has been afflicted with the black scurvy in his legs and

-has not been able to walk without sticks, but after being baptized and

-hands laid on him he returned to his wagon without any kind of help

-seemingly much better. Soon after 5:00 p.m. a meeting was called at the

-wagon of President Young, and remarks made by several, and instructions

-by President Young chiefly in reference to the guard and the folly

-of conforming to gentile military customs on an expedition of this

-nature. After dark the twelve and some others met together opposite

-the President's wagon to select men to go a hunting buffalo, etc., as

-we proceed on the journey. It was ascertained that there are eight

-horses in the company which are not attached to teams. Then eight men

-were selected to ride on horseback, viz., Thomas Woolsey, Thomas Brown,

-John Brown, O. P. Rockwell, John S. Higbee, Joseph Mathews. Then

-there were selected eleven men to hunt also on foot, viz., John Pack,

-Phineas H. Young, Tarlton Lewis, Joseph Hancock, Edmund Ellsworth,

-Roswell Stevens, Edson Whipple, Barnabas L. Adams, Benjamin F. Stewart,

-Jackson Redding and Eric Glines. It was also voted that the twelve have

-the privilege of hunting when they have a mind to. After some remarks

-and cautions in regard to chasing the wild buffalo, the company was

-dismissed, and I retired to rest soon after nine o'clock, the evening

-being very fine and pleasant.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, April 26</h3>

-

-<p>This morning about 3:30 an alarm was sounded. I immediately got out of

-the wagon and learned that three of the guard who were stationed to the

-northeast of the camp had discovered some Indians crawling up towards

-the wagons. They first received alarm from the motions of one of our

-horses, and noticing this they went towards the spot and listening,

-heard something rustle in the grass; they first suspected they were

-wolves and fired at them. Only one gun went off and six Indians sprang

-up and ran from within a few rods of where they stood, another gun was

-then fired at them and the camp alarmed. A strong guard was placed all

-around, and a charge of cannister put in the cannon. The day was just

-breaking when this took place and the moon had just gone down. The

-air being extremely cold and fires put out, I retired into the wagon

-till morning and arose again at half past five. After daylight, the

-footsteps of the Indians could be plainly seen where they had come down

-under the bank and sometimes stepped into the water. No doubt their

-object was to steal horses, and they had a fair privilege if the guard

-had been found asleep, for the camp was only formed in a half circle

-and some horses were tied outside. However, the prompt reception they

-met with will have a tendency to show them that we keep a good watch

-and may deter them from making another attempt. Orders were given for

-the tens to assemble for prayers this morning, instead of two in each

-wagon, which was done. President Young told me this morning that as

-soon as my health will permit, he wants me to assist Brother Bullock in

-keeping minutes, etc., as Brother Bullock is hard run, having to take

-care of a team and attend to other chores.</p>

-

-<p>The camp started out about 8:00 a.m. I started at 7:30 on foot and

-traveled four miles, then waited for the wagons. There is no road here,

-consequently, President Young, Kimball, G. A. Smith, A. Lyman and

-others went ahead on horseback to point out the road. The horse teams

-traveled first to break the strong grass so that it will not hurt the

-oxen's feet. The hunters started out in different directions keeping

-only a few miles from the wagons. We traveled about seven miles and

-then stopped at 11:30 beside a few little holes of water to rest and

-feed teams, etc. From this place which is somewhat elevated, can be

-seen the remains of an old village or Indian fort, over the river about

-northwest from here. The country looks beautiful, somewhat rolling and

-bounded by uneven bluffs. The land looks poor and sandy. The sun is

-very hot and not much wind. I find it has a great tendency to make sore

-lips, parched up and feverish. At 1:45 all the wagons were on the way

-again. We traveled about seven miles. We crossed two slough or soft

-places though not very bad. They are the first since we left Winter

-Quarters. The roads are more uneven than on the other side the river.

-We had to make a new road all day. At 6:15 the encampment was formed on

-the east banks of a small creek with a very gravelly bottom. The wagons

-are formed in a deep hollow and so low that they cannot be seen at a

-quarter of a mile distance. There is no fresh grass here, neither has

-the old grass been burnt off. We have crossed a number of trails today

-which some say are buffalo trails. They all run towards the river, and

-in some places there are 8 or 9, others, not more than two, and so on,

-together running about a half a yard apart. The hunters have seen no

-buffalo. Woolsey killed a goose. There is no timber here, only a few

-small willows. We are about a half a mile from the river, and there

-doesn't seem to be much timber on the river. Our course today has been

-about southwest. About a mile back from this place situated on a high

-bench of land on the banks of the river is the remains of an Indian

-village, the houses or lodges being all down and no appearance of

-timber left. The entrances to these lodges all face to the southeast,

-the same as those back at the other village. There has evidently been a

-garden around the village as the land has been broken and bears marks

-of cultivation. This morning Brother Benson discovered that one of the

-iron axles of his wagon was broken, and he moved the load so that there

-was no weight on the part which was broken, and traveled with it all

-day. This evening the wagon was unloaded, the axle taken off, Brother

-Tanner's forge set up, and the axle welded and fixed ready to put to

-the wagon again. This was done in the short space of one hour after the

-encampment was formed. The welding was performed by Brother Burr Fost.

-About eight o'clock Joseph Mathews came into camp from seeking his

-horses and stated that an Indian had rode a horse off a little before

-and he supposed it was Brother Little's horse, which was missing. Dr.

-Richards' mare was also missing. Brother Mathews stated that he went

-out to seek for his black man who was out watching his teams, and as

-he arrived he saw Brother Little's horse as he supposed going towards

-the river. He ran towards it to turn it back to camp, but as soon as he

-commenced running the horse sprang to a gallop, which made him suppose

-there was an Indian on him although he could not see the Indian. As

-soon as he gave the alarm five or six of the brethren mounted their

-horses, and pursued on the course pointed out to the river, but could

-neither see nor hear a horse or Indian. When they returned, President

-Young and Kimball and a number of others went out on horseback and

-searched till near eleven o'clock, but likewise proved unsuccessful.

-The brethren have been repeatedly warned not to let their horses go far

-from their wagons, but every time we stop they can be seen around for

-more than two miles. These are two good horses and the owners feel bad

-enough, but it will be a warning to others to be more careful.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, April 27</h3>

-

-<p>Arose soon after five. The morning fine and pleasant. During the night

-the guard fired twice but they supposed they were wolves they fired

-at. I went back to the old Indian village before breakfast, and also

-with O. P. Rockwell, to see if any tracks of the lost horses could

-be found. He followed one track some way into a bunch of willows, but

-having no arms we returned. At 7:45 the wagons commenced moving and

-traveled till 2:15 being about twelve miles nearly a south course, the

-design being to go to the main branch of the Platte. President Young,

-Kimball and others went forward again to point out the road. O. P.

-Rockwell and some others started back to hunt the horses about the time

-we started. The land today has been very rolling and uneven. It is also

-very sandy and dry. After traveling about four miles through dead grass

-we found a large space where the grass had been burned off. Here it is

-quite green, and there are quantities of buffalo dung, which proves

-that we are not far distant from some of them. The hunters have been

-out again but have not discovered any. There are a great many lizards

-on these sand ridges, but they are of a small size. President Young and

-Kimball discovered a dog town a piece back, and many little prairie

-dogs. In one hole was a very large rattlesnake, and around the holes

-many small owls which seem to correspond with what travelers have said

-previously, that the prairie dog, rattlesnakes, and owls all live in

-the same hole together. The sun is very hot but there is a nice west

-wind although it is dry and parches our lips. When we stopped at noon

-the brethren dug several holes and obtained a little water, as there is

-none here above the surface. They could not obtain any for the cattle

-and horses. At 3:15 the teams commenced to move again. Just as they

-started, John Brown, Roswell Stevens and Brother Woodruff all shot

-at an antelope. They all hit him and killed him. Having skinned it,

-they put it into one of the wagons. The afternoon was very hot and the

-roads very dusty. After traveling about two miles some of the ox teams

-gave out and had to stop and feed. The rest went on till they found

-a small branch of water and the grass being very good we stopped for

-the night at half past five, having traveled about four miles, course

-about south. President Young and several others went back with mules

-and horses to assist the teams up which are behind. Luke Johnson shot

-a very large rattlesnake and brought it to camp for the oil. Roswell

-Stevens killed a hare, the nearest like the English hare of any I have

-seen in this country. Soon after we arrived here it began to lightning

-and thunder and we had a light shower with a very strong wind. There is

-an appearance of more rain which is very much needed indeed. At 6:30

-O. P. Rockwell, Joseph Mathews, John Eldridge and Thomas Brown

-returned from hunting the two lost horses. They reported that they

-went back to within about two miles of where we encamped on Sunday and

-looking off towards the river they saw something move in the grass at

-the foot of a high mole. They proceeded towards it thinking it was a

-wolf, when within about twelve or fourteen rods Porter stopped to shoot

-at the supposed wolf. The moment he elevated his rifle, fifteen Indians

-sprang to their feet, all naked except the breech cloth, and armed

-with rifles and bows and arrows. Each man having a rifle slung on his

-back, and his bow strung tight in his hand and about twenty arrows.

-The Indians advanced towards them but the brethren motioned and told

-them to stop and held their rifles and pistols ready to meet them. When

-the Indians saw this they began to holler "bacco! bacco!" The brethren

-told them they had not tobacco. One of the Indians came close beside

-J. Mathew's horse to shake hands with Mathews but kept his eye on the

-horse's bridle. When nearly within reach of the bridle, Brown cocked

-his pistol and pointed at the Indian shouting if he did not leave he

-would kill him. At which, the Indian seeing the pistol ready to fire,

-retreated. The Indians made signs to get the brethren lower down the

-river, but the brethren turned their horses to come to camp, thinking

-it unsafe to go near to the timber where they expected more Indians

-lay in ambush. When the brethren turned to come back the Indians fired

-six shots at them with their rifles and the brethren immediately faced

-about at which the Indians fled towards the timber below. The brethren

-did not shoot at the Indians, even when the Indians shot at them. They

-saw the tracks of the horses which are missing and returned satisfied

-that Pawnees have got them, and no doubt intended to get the horses on

-which the brethren rode, but they met with too stern a reception to

-risk an attempt. Some of these same Indians were amongst those who came

-into camp when we stopped for dinner near their village, and proves

-that they eyed the horses pretty close, and also proves that they have

-followed us close ever since. The brethren ran great risks indeed, but

-got back safe to camp without harm.</p>

-

-<p>About the same time the brethren returned, a gun accidentally went

-off and broke the nigh fore leg of Brother Mathew's horse. Those who

-saw the accident state that when the rain came on, some of the men

-put their guns in John Brown's wagon, loaded and with the caps on.

-Brother Brown threw his coat on the guns, and soon after went to get

-his coat and plucking it up, some part of the coat caught the cock

-of the gun and raised it so that when the coat slipped off, the gun

-went off, and the ball struck the horse's leg on the back side about

-half way between the knee and upper joint. The bone was broke entirely

-off. There were several men and horses close by the wagon at the time.

-The wagon was set on fire, but soon put out with little damage. This

-makes four of the best horses lost within the last four days, but the

-last circumstance is by far the most painful, and breaks up Brother

-Markham's team. Brother Brown made Heber a present of a little antelope

-meat. About dark the wind moved to the north and blew strong a little

-while and we had a little more rain.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, April 28</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine and pleasant, no Indians. The wind blew strong from

-the northeast which makes it much cooler. There are many wolves and

-antelope around here, but no buffalo have been seen as yet. Orders were

-given this morning for no man to leave the wagons except the hunters.

-The brethren had to make a road down to the small creek near which

-we camped. This occupied till about nine o'clock, when the wagons

-commenced crossing; the last wagon crossed at ten o'clock and then the

-camp proceeded on, President Young, Kimball, and several others going

-before to point out the road while the wagons were crossing the creek.

-Brother Luke Johnson shot the horse dead which had his leg broke last

-night. The horse belonged to Brother Barney, but was in Markham's team

-and was a good one, but they concluded it was better to shoot her than

-leave her alone to the mercy of the Indians. Our course for the first

-seven miles was a little east of south over a very level prairie and

-green with grass. The largest wild onions grow here I have ever seen.

-After traveling about seven miles we turned southwest, being within

-a mile of the main Platte and opposite to Grand Island. We traveled

-till 2:30 and then stopped to feed, having come about eleven miles

-today. The roads are extremely dusty and the strong wind blows it into

-the wagons and everything is covered. We are now near to timber and a

-good chance for grass for the cattle. At 4:00 p.m. we moved again and

-traveled till six, having traveled about four miles, and during the

-day, about fifteen miles. We have camped about a quarter of a mile from

-the timber and there is plenty of grass to fill the stock tonight. The

-water is also clear and cool and good tasting. The evening is cloudy

-and very cool, which affects my head some. Suppered on some antelope

-and went to bed early.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, April 29</h3>

-

-<p>The wagons started at five o'clock this morning before breakfast, to

-find more grass as this is all eaten off. We traveled till 6:30 being

-about three miles, and then turned out the teams to feed. The morning

-very cool. There seems to be very little rain in this country and no

-dew. Breakfasted on goose and mouldy bread. At twenty minutes after

-eight, the teams started again and after traveling about two miles

-came to a very pretty stream of good water, (Wood River) about ten

-feet wide on an average, but at the fording place about a rod wide. We

-were detained some here, but all got over safely. We then traveled on

-a table or prairie gently ascending for four or five miles but very

-even and good traveling. At 1:00 p.m. we stopped beside a small lake to

-rest and feed teams, having traveled about ten miles today. The wind

-south and strong. One of Orson Pratt's horses is very sick, supposed

-to be the bots. He has lain down several times in the harness within

-the last three hours. I am not astonished, as the wagons and everything

-else is shrinking up, for the wind is perfectly dry and parching;

-there is no moisture in it. Even my writing desk is splitting with the

-drought. At 2:30 p.m. we started again and traveled till about 6:30

-over tolerable level prairie, distance about eight miles, and nearly a

-southwest course. The wind was strong from southwest till sundown and

-then turned to northeast. The clouds of dust were almost sufficient to

-suffocate everyone. I rode Heber's horse this afternoon and went before

-the wagons. Saw many antelope, and the brethren had a good chance to

-kill one, but they missed it, although three of them shot at it. We

-camped at night close to Grand Island where there is an abundance of

-rushes for cattle. There is also a white substance that seems to ooze

-out of the ground around here, and tastes like salt, but not so strong

-as common salt. Brother Orson Pratt's horse is better and the day has

-passed without accident.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, April 30</h3>

-

-<p>Arose at half past five. Morning cool and pleasant. The teams have

-filled themselves with rushes. Started at 7:40 and soon after the camp

-started, I started ahead on foot and have traveled about five miles.

-The prairie level and green with grass. We travel on the first bench

-about three quarters of a mile north of the timber on Grand Island.

-There are many wild geese on the prairie, also buffalo dung, but

-none very recent. There are immense patches of blue grass which from

-appearances, the buffalo are fond of. There are also numerous patches

-of buffalo grass which is very short, thick on the ground, and curly

-like the hair on a buffalo's hide, and much resembling it, except in

-color. About a mile from where we camped last night, we passed a place

-where the Indians have camped no doubt during their hunt. They must

-have been very numerous for their camp has covered a number of acres of

-ground. President Young, Kimball and Lyman are gone ahead on horseback

-to look out the road. We have thus far followed the Indian trail, but

-it is now so grown over and so old it is scarce discernible. The wind

-blows strong from the north and the dust is very bad. The atmosphere is

-dull and cloudy. Our course today has been about west. At a quarter to

-twelve we stopped to feed beside a small creek of clear, good, water,

-having traveled about eight miles. The grass along this creek is long

-and plentiful. We are about a half a mile from Grand Island.</p>

-

-<p>Having the privilege of copying from Brother Bullock's journal, I will

-now record the names of the standing guard as organized April 16th,

-also the men selected by Brother Tanner to form the gun division as

-ordered Saturday, April 17th.</p>

-

-<p>Tarlton Lewis, Stephen H. Goddard, Seeley Owens, Thomas Woolsey, John

-G. Luce, Horace Thorton, Charles D. Barnam, Sylvester H. Earl, George

-Scholes, Rufus Allen, William Empey, John Holman, George R. Grant,

-William P. Vance, James Craig, Datus Ensign, William Dykes, John Dixon,

-Samuel H. Marble, Artemus Johnson, Norton Jacobs, Addison Everett,

-William Wordsworth, John W. Norton, Francis M. Pomroy, Lyman Curtis,

-Horace M. Frink, Erastus Snow, Hans C. Hanson, William C. A.

-Smoot, Barnabas L. Adams, Rodney Badger, Charles Burk, Alexander

-P. Chesley, Appleton M. Harmon, David Powell, Joseph Mathews, John

-Wheeler, Gillrid Summe, Mathew Ivory, Edson Whipple, Conrad Klineman,

-Joseph Rooker, Nathaniel Fairbanks, Ozro Eastman, Andrew S. Gibbons,

-William A. King, Thomas Tanner, Hosea Cushing, and John H. Tippets.</p>

-

-<p>The names of the gun detachment are as follows:</p>

-

-<p>Thomas Tanner, Captain; Stephen H. Goddard, Seeley Owens, Thomas

-Woolsey, John G. Luce, Horace Thornton, Charles D. Barnam, Sylvester H.

-Earl, George Scholes and Rufus Allen.</p>

-

-<p>At twenty minutes after ten o'clock started again, the wind blowing

-from the north tremendously strong, and clouds of dust arose from under

-the wagon wheels. It has turned very cold and gloomy. We traveled

-again over a level prairie some distance from the river and turned off

-to camp under the bench soon after 5:00 p.m. having traveled about

-eight miles, our course a little southwest. The wagons were formed in

-an imperfect circle in such a manner as to have all the wagon mouths

-from the wind, which took near an hour to form the encampment. We are

-about a mile from water and a mile and a half from timber, with very

-little grass for our teams. It is now so cold that every man wants his

-overcoat on and a buffalo robe over it. We have had no accident and the

-brethren feel well, some are wrestling to keep themselves warm. Some

-have had the good luck to bring a little wood with them but it seems

-as if many will have a cold supper. And some perhaps little or nothing

-as they have no bread cooked. Eight p.m., the camp have found a good

-substitute for wood in the dried buffalo dung which lies on the ground

-here in great plenty, and makes a good fire when properly managed.

-Brother Kimball invented a new way of building a fire to cook on and

-which is well adapted to the use of this kind of fuel. He dug a hole

-in the ground about 8 inches deep, 15 inches long and 8 inches wide.

-Then at each end of this hole he dug another about the same dimensions

-as the first leaving about 3 inches of earth standing between the

-middle and two end holes. At the end of these partitions he made a

-hole through about 3 inches in diameter to serve as a draught. In the

-bottom of the middle hole the fire and fuel was placed, and across the

-top two wagon hammers to set the pots and pans on, so that the fire

-could have free circulation underneath. By this method much cooking

-was done with very little fuel. To save the trouble of carrying water

-so far a well was dug in a short time about 4 feet deep and good water

-obtained. After supper I went and gathered some dried buffalo dung

-(politely called buffalo chips) to cook with in the morning. Brother

-Hanson played some on his violin and some of the brethren danced to

-warm themselves. I went to bed early to get warm but having only one

-quilt for covering, I suffered much with cold. Brother Kimball rode

-ahead again on horseback and suffered some from cold.</p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-11>May 1847</h2>

-

-<h3>Saturday, May 1</h3>

-

-<p>The morning very cold indeed. Inasmuch as there is little grass for the

-cattle, the camp started out at 5:40 and traveled till a quarter after

-eight, six miles before breakfast. Soon after we started this morning

-three buffalo were seen grazing on the bluff about six miles distance.

-I could see them very plain with my glass. O. P. Rockwell, Thomas

-Brown and Luke Johnson started on horseback to try to kill some. Soon

-after they went, another herd of buffalo were seen to the northwest at

-the foot of the bluffs about eight miles off. I counted with my glass,

-72, and Orson Pratt counted 74. Three of the brethren went on their

-horses after the latter herd. I watched the movement with the glass

-and saw that sometime before the brethren got to them, the buffalo

-fled and were soon after out of sight. We stopped for breakfast close

-to Grand Island and at 10:15 proceeded again. After traveling four

-miles we arrived at a small lake on our right at twelve o'clock which

-evidently connects with the river in high water. A little previous to

-this time the hunters returned and reported that Luke Johnson shot at

-one and dropped him on his knees, but he got up again and ran after the

-herd. They did not get any, but saw more farther west and went to give

-chase to the latter herd. When they got near them, they turned down

-under the bluffs and joined the herd chased by the last hunting party.

-Luke lost his cap and could not find it again. Brother Higbee said he

-could have shot one, but Woolsey told him to hold on and pick out a

-good one. They being pretty near, selected a cow and designed both to

-shoot at her, but while they were making their plans the herd started

-and they missed their chance. About the time the hunters returned,

-another still larger herd was discovered still farther west, also at

-the foot of the bluffs. The President stopped near the above mentioned

-lake and selected eleven men to go and give chase to the last seen

-herd and he gave them their instructions. Although they were at least

-eight miles from us, I distinctly counted 101 with my glass and amongst

-them many calves. This being the first day buffalo has been seen on

-our journey and in fact the first ever seen by any except about five

-or six of the brethren, it excited considerable interest and pleasure

-in the breasts of the brethren, and as may be guessed, the teams moved

-slowly and frequently stopped to watch their movement. When the hunters

-were within a mile or two from the herd, two of the dogs gave chase

-to an antelope, which made directly towards the buffalo. One of the

-dogs chased it till it went into the midst of the herd and when the

-buffalo saw the dog, they commenced to canter into a closer huddle.

-The dog, however, evidently frightened with their savage appearance,

-stopped and retraced his steps. About this time Elder Kimball seemed to

-get inspired with the idea of chasing the buffalo and he immediately

-called for Egan's fifteen shooter and started with it on full gallop.

-After the dog returned the buffalo did not move much from the place

-and the hunters moved gently along till they got pretty near them, at

-which time Heber joined, just as the herd discovered them and commenced

-galloping off. The brethren's feelings who were left with the wagons

-were now strung up to the highest pitch, a feeling of exciting interest

-appeared to prevail throughout the camp, they having heard and read

-so much of the mad ferocity of the buffalo when hotly pursued, and

-knowing that all the hunters were inexperienced in regard to hunting

-the wild buffalo. While they felt for the safety of the hunters, they

-still desired to see as much of the chase as the distance would allow,

-and were wishful that the chase might be successful as a number have

-no meat and a piece of fresh meat would taste good to all men and save

-our bread stuff, and the desire to taste the much famed buffalo meat

-created a longing desire to see some of the herd fall. Soon as the herd

-commenced galloping off, the hunters followed in pursuit at full gallop

-and soon closed in with them. At this time I got my glass and rested

-it on Brother Aaron Farr's shoulder, determined to see as much of the

-chase as possible. I soon discovered O. P. Rockwell ride into

-the midst of the herd which then appeared to number over 200, others

-having come in sight when the herd commenced to run. Porter was soon

-enveloped in the cloud of dust caused by the heavy tramp of the buffalo

-on the dry sandy ground, but in a very short time the herd began to

-separate and scatter in every direction, a small party coming down

-the bluff again and some running west under the bluffs, others going

-over. The hunters closed in on the first party and commenced their

-fire, especially at one cow which they finally succeeded in separating

-from all the rest, and determined to keep to her until they killed

-her, except Porter, who as soon as he had wounded her, left her with

-the hunters and pursued some of the rest. The cow was now in close

-quarters and after she had been shot through two or three times, Elder

-Kimball rode close to her with his fifteen shooter and fired over his

-horse's head, she dropped helpless and was soon dispatched. At the

-report of the gun which was very heavy loaded, Elder Kimball's horse

-sprang and flew down the bluff like lightning and he having let go the

-lines to shoot, her sudden motion overbalanced him and his situation

-was precarious to the extreme. The other hunters saw his situation and

-trembled for his safety but could render him no assistance. However,

-being a good horseman, he maintained his position in the saddle and

-soon succeeded in gaining the lines and by a vigorous effort succeeded

-after some time in reining in his horse and returned to the rest

-unharmed and without accident. All this movement passed about as quick

-as thought, and as soon as they saw the cow dead and all right they

-again followed in pursuit of the remaining buffalo. About this time

-three of the herd separated from the rest and came in a direction

-towards the camp on a gallop. President Young seeing this, ordered a

-halt, and the wagons to get close together lest the buffalo should,

-in their fury and excitement, venture to go between the wagons and do

-much mischief. However, they were discovered by some of the hunters

-nearer the camp and some foot men who gave chase to them changed their

-course when within about a mile from the camp. At this time I had a

-very good view of their shape, color and appearance when running which

-I shall endeavor to describe hereafter. Elder Kimball arrived in time

-to aid in the chase of these three which lasted some time. The hunters

-made choice of a large and very furious bull, and worked with him

-some time, shooting him through several times but all this did not

-seem to impede his progress. O. P. Rockwell said he had heard it

-said that a buffalo could not be hurt with a ball shot at his head.

-Having a fair chance with this one, he determined to satisfy himself,

-and (previous to his being wounded) gaining a little in advance came

-right in front within about a rod of him and discharged his rifle

-pistol which struck the center of his head, but with no other effect

-than to make it smoke a little, some dust fly and the raving animal

-shake savagely. The brethren, John S. Higbee and John Pack, soon after

-succeeded in dropping him and laid him dead at their feet, John Pack

-being the one that dropped him. During all this, other scenes were

-passing of equal interest. One of the calves was discovered within a

-few rods of the wagons, a shot fired at it and it was soon caught by

-the dogs, killed and put into a feed box. Porter chased another calf

-to within a mile of the camp previous to his chasing the bull. Some

-of the footmen surrounded and dispatched it, and soon after brought

-and put it in one of the wagons. Other brethren were still away at the

-bluffs, but we had no certainty of their success until Elder Kimball,

-John Pack, and several others came up to the camp after dispatching

-the bull and reported two other cows killed and three calves. This

-was a little before 5:00 p.m. When it was ascertained for a certainty

-that one was killed, the revenue cutter was unloaded and sent to fetch

-it to camp. It was reported that two other cows and three calves were

-killed. When Elder Kimball and others came up to the camp, President

-Young requested some of the brethren to unload their wagons and go and

-fetch the others reported to be killed, while the wagons would strike

-towards the river and camp for the night. The chase lasted from soon

-after 1:00 until 4:00 p.m. Soon four wagons were unloaded, the brethren

-having their loads on the ground in care of a guard, and were ready

-to start out. Having a great desire to see a buffalo in his natural

-state, my feet being very sore, and the distance to the bluffs being

-over three miles, I got into Brother Aaron Farr's wagon, he being one

-who unloaded to fetch in the meat, and we started for the one shot down

-by Elder Kimball, he and O. P. Rockwell following on horseback.

-On our route, we met Luke Johnson and two other hunters returning.

-Luke had a calf tied on his horse, himself on foot. When we arrived at

-the cow, we found that three of the brethren had come on foot and had

-already got the hide off, except the head. She was soon cut in two, put

-in the wagon with the rest of the meat, hide and head, and we started

-for the next cow which was about three quarters of a mile distant. This

-cow would probably weigh on foot, about 700 pounds. She was not very

-fat, but the meat looked nice and clean. When we arrived at the next

-cow, we found several of the brethren at work with her, they had got

-her hide off and soon had her in the wagon. We then proceeded to camp

-and got in soon after sundown. The meat was unloaded in the semi-circle

-opposite the President's wagon and placed on the hide which was spread

-on the ground for the purpose of keeping it clean. The brethren's

-faces beamed with joy to see the meat begin to come into camp, and

-with some astonishment to view the size and ferocious appearance of

-the head, which still had the hide on. Soon after the other wagons

-came in and each deposited its load in the same place. Joseph Mathews

-came in about the same time and reported that he had killed another

-calf after chasing it three miles, making the total number killed in

-the first day's buffalo hunt by the Camp of the Latter-day Saints,

-already reported as follows: one bull, three cows and six calves, a

-circumstance far exceeding our expectations and best hopes, and all

-without the slightest accident or loss to man or property, except Luke

-Johnson's cap and a ramrod to a rifle. There is, however, one shade

-of suspense caused by the intelligence that Joseph Hancock has not

-returned to camp. He started out on foot when the three buffalo were

-first discovered this morning and has not been seen or heard of for

-sometime. Considerable fear is entertained for his safety from the fact

-that he is lame, and it is evident, or at least considered so, that

-there are Indians near because a large smoke as of prairie burning has

-been seen all the afternoon within some six or eight miles to the west

-and must have been set on fire by somebody and the probability is, it

-is Indians, although none has been seen for several days. The meat was

-cut up into quarters and distributed one quarter to each company of

-ten, leaving some to be distributed in the morning, and in a short time

-every fire was loaded with it, and the camp had a good feast on the

-fruits of today's labors.</p>

-

-<p>Soon after the hunters started out at noon we came to a long range

-of dog towns and saw many of the little prairie dogs playing around

-their holes. The extent of this dog town is yet unknown, for we have

-traveled over, and parallel with it about five miles this afternoon,

-and they seem to extend still farther west. In some places the town

-is nearly two miles broad, in others not so much, and must contain

-thousands of the little dogs. I could not get near enough to see their

-form distinctly, for they are so quick into their holes when anything

-approaches, you can only have a partial view of them. They appear to be

-about as long as a common grey squirrel but more chunky, a larger body

-and chubbed head. The tail is short, more resembling that of a dog,

-their color light brown. Their bark resembles the chirp of an English

-throstle, and something like the chirp of a squirrel. They appear to

-live on grass as it is all eaten off close to the ground throughout

-the extent of their dog town, and the ground looks naked and barren

-as a desert. Several of the brethren shot at the dogs but failed in

-killing any. We had a north wind this afternoon and cold weather, our

-course being nearly west over a level prairie, not far distant from the

-island. Since noon we traveled about eight miles, and the encampment

-was formed at half past six o'clock near a small lake about a mile

-above the head of Grand Island. The grass is not so good here as it

-has been back, and but a poor chance for the cattle, etc., to fill

-themselves.</p>

-

-<p>The appearance of the wild buffalo at a distance is somewhat singular.

-The color of the back and about half way down the sides is a light

-brown, the rest is a very dark brown. The shoulder appears slightly

-rounding and humped. When running, the large shaggy head hangs low

-down, about half way in height between the ground and the top of

-the shoulder. They canter like any ox or cow, but appear far more

-cumbersome and heavy, especially about the fore parts, which look

-larger than they really are on account of the long, thick matty hair.

-They run tolerably fast, but a good horse will easily gain on them.

-They will run a long time without diminishing their speed. Their meat

-is very sweet and tender as veal.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, May 2</h3>

-

-<p>This morning is fine but cold. Ice about half an inch thick. Sometime

-in the night a buffalo and calf came within a short distance of the

-wagons. The guard discovered them and shot at the calf, wounding it

-in the hind leg. They caught it alive and tied it up near the wagons

-but concluded finally to kill and dress it. About six o'clock we

-were gladdened to see Joseph Hancock come into camp with a piece of

-buffalo meat. He reported that he killed a buffalo yesterday back on

-the bluffs, and there being no one with him he concluded to stay by it

-over night. He made a fire and scattered a little powder around his

-buffalo to keep off the wolves. Some visited him during the night, but

-were awed by the fire. After he had told his story and taken breakfast,

-Brother Hancock started in company with four or five other brethren to

-fetch in the meat on horseback, as no wagons could get over the bluffs

-to it. They found that the wolves had devoured much of it, but the

-balance they brought along with them. They also killed two antelope and

-brought them into camp. The total number of buffalo now caught is five

-large ones and seven calves. Edmund Ellsworth killed one of the prairie

-dogs, and brought it to camp. It looks much like a squirrel, only the

-body is thicker and the tail short and no bush on it. The day grew

-pleasant till about noon, when it became cloudy and cold. President

-Young, Kimball and others started out to look out a camp ground where

-better feed can be obtained for our stock. They returned a little after

-two and gave orders to go on a few miles. There have been a number of

-buffalo seen in different directions, one grazing within three quarters

-of a mile from camp, but orders were not to hunt or shoot today. At

-three-fifteen the camp started and traveled two miles over dog towns

-as yesterday. At a little after four p.m. we camped beside a long lake

-of shoal, clear water near the banks of the Platte. This lake is about

-three rods wide and connects with the river. The Platte appears about

-two miles wide at this place but very shoal and muddy. There is no

-timber but plenty of grass, mostly last year's growth. The weather is

-more temperate and the wind ceased. President Young, Kimball and others

-went on to look out a crossing place over this lake, etc. On their way,

-they fell in with a buffalo cow and calf and chased them some to get

-a view of them but not to kill. On their return they said we should

-tarry here tomorrow and have some blacksmith work done and probably

-hunt some. Half of the hide off the bull's face was brought into camp.

-On examination I found the mark where Porter shot at his head. The ball

-made a small hole, barely cutting through the outer surface or grain

-of the hide which was near an inch thick. The hair near the top of the

-head is about a foot long.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, May 3</h3>

-

-<p>This morning cold and ice in the water pails. The hunters are going

-out on foot. Tanner and Davenport are fixing their forges to do some

-repairing, shoeing, etc. At about nine the hunters, twenty in number,

-started out with two wagons which had been unloaded for the purpose.

-At the same time, fifteen of the brethren on horseback started west

-to examine the route, etc. At two-thirty the party who went to look

-out the route returned and reported that Brother Empey had discovered

-a large war party of Indians while he was chasing an antelope. The

-Indians are in a hollow about twelve miles distance and about three

-hundred in number, some on their horses and some standing beside them

-holding the bridle. The company also saw nearly twenty scattered

-Indians about four miles from here. When this report was made, orders

-were given to dispatch a number of the brethren on horses, well armed

-to warn the hunters and tell them to come to camp. In about half an

-hour, twenty-three men started out on this mission. Before they reached

-the bluffs which are about four miles from here, some of the hunters

-were on their way to camp, having seen only one buffalo during the day.

-In a little time all the hunters were notified and were on their way

-back. They arrived about six o'clock, having got three antelope, and

-the horsemen who went after them got two calves which were all brought

-in and the day passed without accident. Some of the brethren saw some

-objects at a distance, which, by their motions they were satisfied were

-Indians. The day has been fine but cool and cloudy, with occasionally

-a few drops of rain. A number of wagon tires have been set and other

-blacksmithing, washing, drying meat, etc., done. The wind near south.

-The cannon was unlimbered at night and prepared for action in case it

-should be needed.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, May 4</h3>

-

-<p>The morning fine but cool, wind about southwest. Two horses ran east as

-much as six or eight miles and were pursued by the brethren and brought

-back. William Smoot was thrown from a horse and his senses knocked out

-of him by the fall. He soon recovered and appears to have sustained no

-injury.</p>

-

-<p>At seven-thirty the camp was called and received instructions from

-President Young, especially in regard to leaving the wagons and

-scattering off hunting without counsel. He strongly urged the brethren

-not to do it any more and said if they did, some of them would be

-caught by the Indians and if not killed would be severely abused. The

-instructions and regulations given April 17th were read and enjoined

-upon the camp to be observed more strictly. It was decided that the

-cannon wagon should be unloaded, the box put on another wagon so

-that the cannon can be always ready for action. An addition of ten

-volunteers was made to the standing guard and ordered that all horses

-and mules should be tied inside the circle at night, and the cattle

-and cows outside within a few rods of the wagons. A guard to be placed

-around the cattle when turned out to graze. It is thought best to

-travel with the wagons four abreast and the cannon to go in the rear.</p>

-

-<p>At nine o'clock the wagons commenced moving and passed over the lake

-near its junction with the river, at which place it is about ten or

-twelve feet wide.</p>

-

-<p>After traveling about a half a mile the camp stopped some time, waiting

-for some wagons behind. While stopping, three wagons were discovered on

-the opposite bank of the river, considered to be traders going back to

-Council Bluffs. The river is about two miles wide and no person here

-acquainted with it, consequently no one attempted to go over, which

-many desired. About eleven o'clock we proceeded, five wagons abreast

-so as to be better prepared for defense should the Indians attack us.

-After traveling about two miles, one of the men from the wagons on the

-other side the river overtook us and we halted to see him. He said

-there are only nine of them. They have been to Fort Laramie for furs

-and are going to Council Bluffs. This is the sixteenth day since they

-left the fort with ox teams. He says the road is good on the other

-side and the river easily forded, being not more than knee deep in

-the deepest place and a good bottom. He cheerfully agreed to carry

-letters back for us but could not wait long. I wrote one to my family

-and in about half an hour a pretty large mail was made up to send back

-to Winter Quarters, and may the Lord grant that it may arrive safely.

-Brother Johnson bought a buffalo robe of the man for about a pound and

-a half of coffee, and another brother bought one for a pound of sugar

-and a little pork. I feel my mind relieved by this unexpected privilege

-of writing back to my dear family and hope they will have the pleasure

-of perusing the contents.</p>

-

-<p>At twenty minutes after one the bugle sounded for a march, and the

-messenger is returning with the letters and a bag of provisions on his

-shoulder which the brethren have given him for carrying the letters.

-We traveled about four miles farther and at three-thirty, stopped to

-let the teams feed on a small spot where the fire has not touched, the

-rest having all been burned off within a few days. We have traveled

-today only about six miles, having stopped much. The country is still

-very level and nice traveling only for the dust. The wind south and our

-course nearly west. When the trader went back over the river, Thomas

-Woolsey, John Brown and John Pack accompanied him on horses to speak

-with a person whom Brother Woolsey is acquainted with. They returned

-soon after we stopped to feed and say that the river is very good to

-cross, not being more than two feet deep in the deepest place, and the

-bottom good. The horses broke through but very little. The traders

-say furthermore, that if we continue on this side, we shall have to

-cross the river twice where the water is much deeper and cannot be

-crossed only in a ferry. There is a good traveled road also, which

-would be an advantage we have not got on this side. During the time we

-stopped to feed, a guard was placed around the cattle and horses to

-keep them from straying far from the wagons. Then men were called out

-and drilled with their loaded guns in the circle formed by the wagons.

-Some objects are seen grazing about four miles west of us thought to be

-buffalo. Thirteen in number. Some of the hunters are going out to give

-them a chase, and try to kill some of them. At a quarter after five

-o'clock, the camp was called together and Brother Brown reported what

-the traders said about the route, etc., as above. The subject was then

-talked over and when it was considered that we are making a road for

-thousands of saints to follow, and they cannot ford the river when the

-snow melts from the mountains, it was unanimously voted to keep on this

-side as far as Fort Laramie at least. Soon after this we started on

-again. Saw a lone buffalo but a short distance from us but it galloped

-across the river. Saw also a number of antelope and some deer. About

-seven o'clock we passed a spot where the Indians have camped and must

-have been many of them. A while after sundown we arrived at a creek of

-good water and camped for the night, having traveled about nine miles

-today. The prairie level but all the grass burned off, except in small

-patches. We have camped on a small spot which has escaped the fire.

-Elder Kimball, who was one of the hunters who started out at four

-o'clock, said the objects seen from camp were antelope, but he had seen

-a herd of buffalo about a mile ahead of where we now are. He named this

-creek, Buffalo creek.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, May 5</h3>

-

-<p>The morning fine and very pleasant. Saw two small herds of buffalo a

-few miles from camp. At seven-thirty continued our journey. I went

-on foot about two miles and then stopped to count the horses, mules,

-oxen, etc., and afterwards walked on again to the first wagons. Here

-Elder Kimball offered me his horse to ride. I then went ahead with the

-horsemen. We soon after came to a very bad slough and had to bear off

-to the north to find a place to cross it. The prairie after we crossed

-this slough about a mile wide from the river was very soft and it was

-necessary to bear still farther to the north. The horses' feet cut

-through the sod and the ground appeared wet under, although there has

-been no rain for some time. At eleven-thirty we stopped to feed on a

-small patch of unburnt grass, having come about nine miles, course

-about west, with a very strong south wind. There were two buffalo

-within about a half a mile from camp, grazing. Some of the brethren

-went to view them, but the orders of the day are not to kill anything

-which the men cannot carry to camp. There are no appearances of Indians

-near except the prairie which is still burning ahead of us, supposed

-to be set on fire by them. About one p.m. continued our journey and

-traveled till three p.m., when some of the hunters came in, bringing a

-live buffalo calf, also one they had killed. They reported that John

-Brown, Jackson Redding and John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson had each killed

-a calf, the one killed by Brother Higbee having previously been shot by

-Amasa Lyman. Joseph Mathews killed a cow and Elder Kimball, O. P.

-Rockwell and John S. Higbee chased the one brought in alive until a dog

-seized it and Porter left his horse and caught it without shooting at

-it and led it to camp. The revenue cutter was unloaded and sent after

-the cow and calf left, they being about three miles off. We traveled on

-about a half an hour and found the prairie all in a blaze. President

-Young and Kimball thinking it unsafe to risk the wagons near the fire,

-ordered the camp to go back a half a mile to an island where we can

-have water for our teams and be secure from the fire. The prairie is

-all burned bare and the black ashes fly bad, making the brethren look

-more like Indians than white folks. There is some feed on the island,

-and the cattle easily ford the stream to it. The calf is tied in the

-circle. When a dog goes near it, it will attack the largest and they

-flee from it, though not more than six or eight weeks old. About half

-past six the revenue cutter arrived with the meat, which was fatter

-than any we have had. They also brought in another calf which they

-killed while out for the cow, making a total of one cow and six calves

-brought into camp today. The meat was divided amongst the companies of

-ten, each having either a calf or half a quarter of a cow.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, May 6</h3>

-

-<p>This morning at five-fifteen, President Young called to the camp and

-proposed to go on to where we can find feed for the teams. The brethren

-assented and he gave orders to start as quickly as possible. However,

-some must feed their teams a little corn, some milk their cows, etc.,

-and it took till near six-thirty to get started. During the night the

-Lord sent a light shower of rain which has put the fire out except in

-one or two places and made it perfectly safe traveling. We have had a

-strong southeast wind through the night but the morning is calm and

-pleasant. We traveled about two miles and stopped on the unburned grass

-to feed at a quarter to seven. Several antelope were surrounded by

-the brethren and some shot at them, killing one. The rest made their

-escape. We can see several large herds of buffalo within about two

-miles of the camp and many calves amongst them. President Young and

-Kimball rode ahead to find a place to stop for feed. The ground is

-hard and good traveling. At a quarter to nine, proceeded on, President

-Young and Kimball going ahead to point out the road. Our course about

-northwest, the wind strong from west. We traveled near the river. Saw

-thirteen elk together, also many antelope and numerous herds of buffalo

-on both sides of the river. Jackson Redding shot an antelope which Luke

-Johnson chased near the wagons.</p>

-

-<p>A young buffalo calf followed Luke to camp, but the President advised

-him to leave it as it is only a few days old. We stopped near the river

-at a quarter to twelve, having traveled about six miles. We find a

-little more grass here, but the numerous herds of buffalo keep it eaten

-off close to the ground nearly all the way we have traveled today. The

-President gave orders that no more game should be killed until further

-orders. It appears we have got as much meat in camp as can be taken

-care of. While we were stopping for noon, some of the cows moved off

-towards a large buffalo herd, and when President Young and Kimball

-started ahead after dinner they discovered the cows near the buffalo.

-Brother Woolsey went to turn them back, but he had to run his mule

-some distance before he could prevent the cows from mingling with the

-buffalo. They brought the cows back to the wagons and then proceeded

-ahead again. One part of the horsemen's business today has been to

-drive the buffalo out of our track, judging it unsafe to risk them

-between the wagons and the river. The camp proceeded on at one-thirty

-and in about two miles distance found a lake of clear water. Here we

-discovered the horsemen coming back, and found that the President had

-lost his large spy glass, while chasing the cows from the buffalo herd,

-a second time. He did not find it. We traveled slowly this afternoon,

-some of the horses and oxen having given out in consequence of lack

-of feed to sustain them. We traveled till six-thirty and camped near

-some islands in the river, having traveled about seven miles this

-afternoon and fifteen through the day, our course a little west of

-northwest. Wind about west. Some think we have traveled eighteen, some

-twenty and some even twenty-five miles today, but from the number of

-times we stopped and the slowness with which the teams moved, I feel

-satisfied that fifteen miles is plenty. About three quarters of a mile

-back we saw a buffalo cow which appears to be sick. She fought the dogs

-some time and then lay down, and the brethren went close to her, some

-venturing to feel and handle her. I was within six or eight feet of her

-and had a good view, as much as I wanted. She has lost all her hair

-and looks very poor and weak. The President ordered that the brethren

-leave her and not disturb her and she was left lying down, but it is

-doubtful the wolves will kill and eat her before morning. When the

-brethren went back to hunt the spy glass they found that the wolves

-had killed the calf and nearly eaten it up. What they had not eaten,

-they carried off with them. We have never been out of sight of herds of

-buffalo today, and from where we are camped, I am satisfied we can see

-over five thousand with the glass. The largest herd we have yet seen is

-still ahead of us. The prairie looks black with them, both on this and

-the other side of the river. Some think we have passed fifty, and some

-even a hundred thousand during the day, or have seen them. It is truly

-a sight wonderful to behold, and can scarcely be credited by those who

-have not actually seen them.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, May 7</h3>

-

-<p>This morning the wind northwest and almost as cold as winter. The

-buffalo vastly numerous all around. About eight a.m. the camp was

-called together and measures taken to raise more teams to put to the

-canyon as some of the horses and even cattle have given out. The

-President chastised Elder Snow for not attending to the cows yesterday

-causing the President to lose his spy glass, it being Brother Snow's

-turn to drive the cows according to his own voluntary agreement. At a

-little before eleven o'clock, Porter Rockwell, Thomas Brown and Joseph

-Mathews started back to hunt the spy glass, and soon after they left,

-the camp proceeded onward. The day was cloudy and very cold. Our course

-about northwest. We traveled about seven miles and camped at two-thirty

-near several small islands, on the banks of the river. About four p.m.,

-Porter and the others returned, having found the spy glass, which was

-a source of joy to all the brethren. At six-thirty the companies were

-called out to drill. I have been very sick all day with a complaint and

-have suffered much.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, May 8</h3>

-

-<p>Morning cold but fine. Started out at nine o'clock and traveled till

-one p.m., distance seven and a half miles, course a little west

-of northwest. The prairie on both sides of the river is literally

-black with buffalo, and to try to say as to what number we have seen

-this morning would be folly. I should imagine that at a moderate

-calculation, we have seen over fifty thousand. They are more tame than

-they have been, and will stand till the wagons come within two hundred

-yards of them. Porter has shot one about two years old, the meat looks

-nice. There is no difficulty in getting meat enough. It is with some

-difficulty that the horsemen can drive them away from the track as

-fast as the wagons come up. It is very warm today, and no wind. I have

-counted the revolutions of a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance

-we have traveled. The reason why I have taken this method which is

-somewhat tedious, is because there is generally a difference of two and

-sometimes four miles in a day's travel between my estimation and that

-of some others, and they have all thought I underrated it. This morning

-I determined to take pains to know for a certainty how far we travel

-today. Accordingly I measured the circumference of the nigh hind wheel

-of one of Brother Kimball's wagons being the one I sleep in, in charge

-of Philo Johnson. I found the wheel 14 feet 8 inches in circumference,

-not varying one eighth of an inch. I then calculated how many

-revolutions it would require for one mile and found it precisely 360

-not varying one fraction which somewhat astonished me. I have counted

-the whole revolutions during the day's travel and I find it to be a

-little over eleven and a quarter miles, twenty revolutions over. The

-overplus I shall add to the next day's travel. According to my previous

-calculations we were two hundred eighty-five miles from Winter Quarters

-this morning before we started. After traveling ten miles I placed a

-small cedar post in the ground with these words written on it with

-a pencil. "From Winter Quarters, two hundred ninety-five miles, May

-8, '47. Camp all well. Wm. Clayton." Some have past the day's travel

-at thirteen and some fourteen miles, which serves to convince more

-strongly that the distances are overrated. I have repeatedly suggested

-a plan of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance

-we travel in a day, and many begin to be sanguine for carrying it into

-effect, and I hope it will be done. Our course this afternoon has been

-northwest, no wind and the prairie as bare as a poor English pasture,

-the grass being eaten off by uncountable herds of buffalo. No pen nor

-tongue can give an idea of the multitude now in sight continually, and

-it appears difficult to keep them away from the wagons. Two calves

-have been killed and brought to camp and multitudes would be killed

-if the President did not prohibit the brethren from killing them only

-as we need the meat. Truly, the Lord's cattle upon the thousand hills

-are numerous. We are now camped on the banks of the river within a

-quarter of a mile from where the range of bluffs, which have appeared

-exceedingly ragged all day, strike the river, and when we move again we

-have got to cross over them. President Young and Kimball have been back

-on the bluffs on foot some distance and report that as far as they can

-see the grass is eaten perfectly bare and the prospect for feed for our

-teams is poor indeed. There are several buffalo lying dead around here,

-whether dead from old age or by the hands of hunters or of starvation,

-it is unknown. Many of the brethren have to cook their victuals on dry

-buffalo dung, there being no wood near.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, May 9</h3>

-

-<p>The morning very cold with wind southeast. At seven-fifty we proceeded

-on three and a half miles, going a little around some of the bluffs

-until we turned down on a low bottom and very sandy. We have camped

-near some islands and can get wood and water, but poor feed for the

-teams. We arrived here at nine-fifty and shall stay till morning.

-Soon as the camp was formed, I went about three quarters of a mile

-below to the river and washed my socks, towel and handkerchief as well

-as I could in cold water without soap. I then stripped my clothing

-off and washed from head to foot, which has made me feel much more

-comfortable for I was covered with dust. After washing and putting on

-clean clothing I sat down on the banks of the river and gave way to a

-long train of solemn reflections respecting many things, especially in

-regard to my family and their welfare for time and eternity. I shall

-not write my thoughts here, inasmuch as I expect this journal will have

-to pass through other hands besides my own or that of my family but if

-I can carry my plans into operation, they will be written in a manner

-that my family will each get their portion, whether before my death or

-after, it matters not.</p>

-

-<p>The day is very warm and the wind has moved to the west. According to

-my calculations, we are now 300 miles from Winter Quarters, lacking a

-few rods. I got a small board and wrote on it: "From Winter Quarters

-three hundred miles, May 9, 1847. Pioneer Camp all well. Distance

-according to the reckoning of Wm. Clayton." This was nailed on a post

-and in the evening I went and set it up about three hundred yards from

-here on a bend of the river. Spent the afternoon reading and writing

-in Elder Kimball's journal. At three p.m. a meeting was called and the

-camp addressed by several. President Young took tea with Elder Kimball,

-and afterwards they started out together with one or two others to

-look at the country ahead of us. They went a few miles and found a

-small stream which we shall have to cross. Here they saw multitudes of

-buffalo coming to water. Porter and Phineas Young went within six or

-eight rods of them to try to get one, but in the whole herd, they could

-not find one fit to kill. They are very poor, for there is no feed for

-them, and in fact they are so numerous that they eat the grass as fast

-as it springs. There are, however, some good cottonwood groves and

-good water at the stream. After sundown the wind blew strong from the

-northwest and the evening was cold and chilly.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, May 10</h3>

-

-<p>The morning fine but cool. The wind nearly ceased. Last night I

-dreamed that I was in company with the camp which was stopping beside

-a considerable river of deep water. Our horses and cattle were tied

-to stakes all around the camp to the distance of a quarter of a mile,

-some good timber thinly scattered around. I thought President Young,

-Kimball and several others started up the river in a flat boat without

-stating their object, leaving the brethren to guard the camp, cattle,

-etc. in their absence. When they had been gone sometime I thought a

-large herd of buffalo came on full gallop right amongst our horses and

-cattle, causing them to break their ropes and fly in every direction.

-The brethren seemed thunderstruck and did not know what to do. Seeing a

-small skiff in the river, I sprang into it, and a paddle lying in it,

-I commenced rowing in pursuit of the President. It seemed as though I

-literally flew through the water passing everything on the way like a

-railway carriage. In a few minutes I overtook the brethren in the flat

-boat, took the skiff and threw it on shore and to my astonishment I

-saw that the skiff was made only of barks and cracked all over, and

-it seemed impossible to put it in the water without sinking it. The

-paddle with which I had rowed proved to be a very large feather and I

-had another feather in my left hand with which I steered the skiff.

-When I got into the flat boat, I made known what had passed in the

-camp, but the brethren seemed no ways alarmed. I awoke and behold, it

-was all a dream. Dr. Richards is going to deposit a letter in a stick

-of wood prepared for the purpose near this place in such a manner that

-the next company will discover it. He fixed it on a long pole and being

-assisted by President Young and others raised it and fixed it firm in

-the ground. His distance from Winter Quarters three hundred and sixteen

-miles. At nine five the camp proceeded onward. After traveling two

-miles we crossed a small creek which Elder Kimball named Skunk creek,

-easily forded, though the ground was soft on the west side. About this

-time the brethren at the head of the camp discovered a strange horse

-alone on the prairie. Porter and Thomas Brown gave chase to try to

-catch it. Brother John Brown states that when the Mississippi company

-passed on the other side last season, one of the brethren lost a mare

-and two colts, and this is supposed to be the oldest of the two. When

-Brother Woolsey and Tippets came through from the battalion last winter

-they saw the same horse near here. We traveled till twelve five and

-finding a little better feed stopped for dinner having traveled a few

-rods over six miles. The last two miles was over very soft prairie and

-although the last year's grass has not been burned, the wheels cut

-through the sod frequently. At the creek four miles back, some of the

-brethren shot a buffalo which was brought into camp in the revenue

-cutter. The meat is said to be good and the fattest we have had. At

-two we continued our journey. About the same time Porter and Brown

-returned having failed to catch the horse. After traveling about half

-a mile we crossed a very bad slough, and beyond that for a mile the

-ground was wet and soft. The teams began to give out, and at half past

-four o'clock, the President ordered the wagons to strike for the timber

-which was a little out of our course, but necessary to favor the teams

-and obtain wood and water. We arrived near the timber and camped at

-four fifty, having traveled since my last guide post a little over

-nine and three-fourths miles, the last two miles the ground being dry

-and good traveling. Some of the hunters killed a deer and we had some

-venison for supper. Our course a little north of west. Light wind from

-northwest. The day warm and pleasant. We have a little better feed for

-cattle, and on the island plenty of brouse for horses, better timber

-than we have had for some time past. It appears plain that vast herds

-of buffalo have wintered here, but have mostly left and gone eastward

-sometime ago, and we have the full growth of this year's grass which

-is small indeed. The grass evidently springs later the farther west we

-travel, and nature seems to have taught the wild cattle this lesson,

-hence their eastward progress. There are some scattering herds of

-buffalo around, but not nearly so numerous as they were some thirty

-miles back. The face of the country here is indeed beautiful, the soil

-rich on the bottoms, the ragged bluffs on each side of the river have

-a splendid appearance, and at about ten miles distance, west of where

-we now are, they seem to circle around until they form a junction. It

-appears evident also, that we are above the junction of the north and

-south forks of the Platte, the north fork running nearly northwest and

-the south fork southwest. Brother Woolsey says these are the forks

-in reality, but are connected some miles higher up by a slough, and

-consequently the land between is set down by travelers as the main land

-rather than as an island.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, May 11</h3>

-

-<p>The morning cold. Wind east; camp well. At 7:00 a.m. went with a number

-of the brethren who were going to dig some wolves out of a hole about a

-quarter of a mile from camp. They dug out four and brought them alive

-to camp. They are probably six or eight weeks old and about the size

-of an English hare, very vicious. At half past nine the camp moved

-onward over a very nice level, dry prairie for five miles. Amongst the

-timber on the island could be seen many small cedar trees. At the end

-of five miles, we had to pass over a small ridge of low, sandy bluffs,

-which extended to the river. After passing nearly over the bluffs we

-stopped half an hour to water the teams and eat a little dinner, then

-proceeded on three miles farther and passed over a creek of clear

-water, but this could not be very good in consequence of so many dead

-buffalo lying in it. We proceeded on half a mile, and finding tolerably

-good feed, stopped for the night, having traveled eight and half miles

-today. Weather fine, wind south and southeast; course a little west

-or northwest. We have seen few buffalo today, but there are signs

-of thousands having wintered in the neighborhood. The country looks

-beautiful, soil rich, only lacking timber. After the camp was formed,

-it being half a mile to water, the brethren dug two wells, and about

-four feet deep found plenty of good water. One of the wells is reported

-to run a pail full a minute. Brother Appleton Harmon is working at the

-machinery for the wagon to tell the distance we travel and expects

-to have it in operation tomorrow, which will save me the trouble of

-counting, as I have done, during the last four days. Took supper on

-some duck presented to Elder Kimball by George Billings.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, May 12</h3>

-

-<p>Morning cool, weather fine. Brother Appleton Harmon has completed the

-machinery on the wagon so far that I shall only have to count the

-number of miles, instead of the revolution of the wagon wheel. We

-started at 9:10, the first mile pretty soft, the rest tolerably hard

-and very good traveling. We have passed over vast beds of salt, or

-rather dust with a salt taste. It looks something like dirty flour.

-Traveled eight miles in four hours and two minutes, and stopped at

-12:48 to feed, nearly opposite two small islands. The feed tolerably

-good. Our course northwest. Considerable strong wind from southeast

-covering everything in the wagons with dust and sand. No timber on the

-bank of the river and but little on the islands. The hunters report

-that they have seen many dead buffalo between here and the bluff with

-the hides off and tongues taken out, a strong proof that Indians have

-been here very recently, as the flesh looks fresh and lately killed.

-The range of bluffs on each side the river extend much farther apart,

-and near the foot of the south range can be seen timber scattering

-along, which is an evidence that the south fork ranges in that

-direction, although some are sanguine that we have not yet arrived at

-the junction.</p>

-

-<p>At half past three we moved on again and traveled four miles, camped

-at a quarter to six near a bunch of small islands, and a kind of bayou

-projecting from the river. Our course this afternoon a little south of

-west, having come around a considerable bend in the river. The land

-good and good traveling. Wind southeast. Several of the brethren caught

-a number of small fish in the bayou or lake. The feed here is rather

-scanty. Heavy clouds are rising in the west and northwest, and a fair

-prospect for some rain which is much needed. It is now certain that we

-are about fourteen and a half miles above the junction of the north and

-south forks of the Platte, and although we have to make a new road all

-the way, we find no obstacles so far. Brother Woodruff reports that he

-has been beyond the bluffs north of the camp and saw upwards of 200

-wickeups where the Indians have camped very recently.</p>

-

-<p>He found a cured buffalo skin and some pieces of other skins also. The

-hunters killed a two year old buffalo and brought it to camp. Brother

-Orson Pratt reports that when we were five and a half miles back, we

-were in latitude 41° 9' 44".</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, May 13</h3>

-

-<p>This morning cold and cloudy, cold enough for overcoats and buffalo

-robes. The buffalo which was killed yesterday was cut up and divided

-this morning amongst the companies of tens. Some feelings are manifest

-this morning between Brothers Thomas Tanner and Aaron Farr on account

-of the former taking the latter prisoner and putting him under a

-guard part of the night. Perhaps Aaron was a little out of order in

-conversing loud after the horn blew for prayers, but I think Brother

-Tanner's angry spirit more blameable. At 9:00 we moved onward nearly

-a west course four miles and at 11:00 stopped to feed teams at a spot

-which is a little better than we generally have. The wind strong from

-north and northeast.</p>

-

-<p>At half past twelve we proceeded on again and traveled till four

-o'clock, distance six and three quarters miles. At this distance we

-arrived at a stream about six rods wide which appears to come from

-the northeast, the water in appearance like the Platte, the bottom of

-the river quick sand. Water in the middle about two feet deep; at the

-sides quite shoal. It appears that travelers have never discovered this

-stream for it is not noticed in any works that we have seen. We crossed

-it without difficulty and camped on its banks. The weather cloudy and

-very cold, with a strong north wind. Presidents Young and Kimball rode

-ahead as usual to look out the road. They report that the bluffs half a

-mile west come clear to the river and are considerably high. They found

-several ranges of them and finally found a valley running between some

-of the ranges through which we can pass by going about a mile around

-from our course. This stream according to measurement, twenty-five and

-one quarter miles above the junction of the two forks and 341 miles

-from Winter Quarters, by estimation. President Young named it the North

-Bluff Fork. A while before we arrived here four of the brethren went to

-chase a few buffalo which were lying down at the foot of the bluffs,

-but they did not get any. Presidents Young and Kimball saw a very large

-rattlesnake near the river. Brother Kimball says the largest he ever

-saw in his life. I saw a small green snake today, very pretty, the back

-light green and the belly a pale yellow. Presidents Young and Kimball

-suffered severely with cold while riding over the bluffs to look for a

-road. Had to use buffalo dung for cooking, there being no timber.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, May 14</h3>

-

-<p>The morning cloudy and very cold. In the west could occasionally be

-seen streaks of lightning and distant thunder heard. At 8:00 a.m. the

-dark clouds having approached nearer, it commenced raining pretty

-hard, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The President ordered the

-horses got up just before the rain commenced; and after the storm

-ceased, we started onward at a quarter past ten. After traveling about

-a mile we passed among and around the high bluffs, our course lying

-nearly in a north direction for some time, then turning south and

-on again approaching the river, nearly southeast. When within about

-three quarters of a mile from the river, we stopped to feed at twenty

-minutes to two, having traveled six and a quarter miles. We have got

-on the level bottom again and are probably not more than three miles

-in a direct line from where we started this morning. Presidents Young

-and Kimball went forward to point out the route, which is very good to

-travel, although considerably uneven. Brother Higbee killed an antelope

-and wounded another which made its escape while he was loading his

-rifle. We have better feed here than we have had for some time. We had

-a little more rain just as we came to a halt. We have not had much wind

-this morning but it is now increasing from the north. It is somewhat

-warmer than this morning. The atmosphere cloudy and looks as if we

-might have more rain. The land between the two forks for about 25 miles

-is perfectly flat and very level without timber.</p>

-

-<p>The bluffs there rise suddenly, apparently in a line from fork to

-fork. There are many buffalo back in the valleys between the bluffs,

-and although there is no sign of the prairie having been burned, it

-is evident the buffalo have kept it eaten clean off, but have moved

-back and east, probably since the Indians have been hunting them. Some

-of the brethren have discovered fresh tracks where the Indians have

-gone up this north stream, evidently very lately. But we are satisfied

-the Lord hears the prayers of his servants and sends them out of the

-way before we come up to them. At three o'clock we proceeded on our

-journey, keeping above the lower prairie, which appeared soft and

-swampy. Our road was very uneven. We went two and a half miles and

-at half past four stopped to learn the report of those gone ahead to

-look out the road. There is another high range of bluffs about half

-a mile west of us, extending to the river. Elder Kimball went across

-the several ranges of bluffs to the west side, and hunted for a road

-in various directions, but there did not appear to be any possibility

-of finding a road between the bluffs, without going many miles around.

-President Young and he concluded it would be best to camp where the

-wagons are and in the morning cross right over the bluffs by doubling

-teams. Accordingly the encampment was formed about five-thirty, the

-train having traveled eight and three quarters miles today. Our course

-this afternoon nearly west, wind southeast. The feed for our teams

-grows much better, and on one of these high sandy bluffs I saw a large

-bed of flowers, not unlike the violet, and very rich. The sand on the

-bluffs in some places looks like large drifts of snow, and in other

-places seems to have deep chasms as if wasted by heavy rains. The

-atmosphere is still cloudy but not so cold as it has been. The hunters

-have killed two buffalo, three antelope and one badger during the day,

-which will be very acceptable. It was dark when the hunters returned to

-give the information. The revenue cutter was sent after the meat which

-was reported to be a mile and a half distant. It was late when they

-returned. There was an alarm made by the guard in the night supposing

-the Indians were near. The camp were aroused to secure their horses,

-but we had no further trouble about them.</p>

-

-<p>I discovered that Brother Appleton Harmon is trying to have it

-understood that he invented the machinery to tell the distance we

-travel, which makes me think less of him than I formerly did. He is not

-the inventor of it by a long way, but he has made the machinery, after

-being told how to do it. What little souls work.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, May 15</h3>

-

-<p>This morning is very cloudy and very cold, more like a January morning

-than a May morning. The wind blows strong from the northeast. The

-brethren who killed the buffalo did not bring it to camp last night,

-but put it in the boat and left it till morning. About half past seven

-they brought it in and divided it to the captains of ten. At eight

-o'clock it commenced raining again but abated a little before nine. At

-nine o'clock we commenced moving and after traveling three-quarters of

-a mile began to ascend the sandy bluffs. It commenced raining again and

-it looks like rain for all day. It is very cold, the wind continues

-strong. The road was much of a zig zag over the bluffs, but only about

-a mile before we descended to the bottom. We traveled a piece farther

-and at half past ten o'clock it was considered best to turn out the

-teams until it ceases raining, after traveling two and a quarter miles.

-We found it unnecessary to double teams while crossing the bluffs and

-we got over without difficulty, much better than we had anticipated.

-About noon it again ceased raining and the signal was given to harness

-up teams. At half past twelve we proceeded and traveled till a quarter

-to three, distance four and a half miles, then formed the encampment

-in a circle about a quarter of a mile from the river. The road has

-been level but soft and wet, however not bad traveling. The bluffs are

-about half a mile to the north and several herds of buffalo grazing on

-them. Some of the hunters are gone to try and get some meat. The wind

-still keeps up, and is cold, damp and uncomfortable. The feed appears

-better here than we have had for some days, and the cattle soon fill

-themselves which is a comfort and blessing to the camp. Some of the

-brethren have been lucky enough to pick up a few sticks and dead wood

-but our chief dependence for fuel is dry buffalo dung which abounds

-everywhere, but the rain has injured it some for burning. About two

-miles back we passed a place where the Indians have lately camped

-during their hunt. It is plain that whole families are amongst their

-number as the foot prints and moccasins of children have several times

-been seen. They evidently make use of the buffalo dung for fuel, and

-for seats, they dig up sods and lay them in a circle around their

-fire which is in the center. We have passed a number of these little

-temporary camping spots this afternoon. The reason why we did not

-travel farther was that Elder Kimball being gone ahead to look out the

-road, etc., he found as he came near the next bluffs that the feed is

-all eaten off by the numerous herds of buffalo and found also, that we

-shall have to travel over the bluffs and they appear wide and would be

-impossible for the teams to get over them tonight, hence the necessity

-of stopping here where we have good feed. The soil on this prairie

-looks good and rich but there is no timber. In fact there is none in

-sight, except a small grove on the other side the river about two miles

-west of the camp. Late at night Porter Rockwell came in and reported

-that he killed a buffalo. The cutter was sent for it to bring it to

-camp. Our course this afternoon nearly west.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, May 16</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine, but chilly and cold. Wind north. Eric Glines killed an

-antelope near the camp which was cut up and distributed. Soon after

-breakfast, President Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff and Benson went on

-horseback to look out the best road over the bluffs. They returned at

-half past twelve and reported that we can pass through a valley between

-and around the bluffs, which will be about four miles across them.

-About 5:00 p.m. several buffalo were seen making their way from the

-bluffs towards our horses, some of which were very near them. Brother

-Eric Glines started out with the intention of driving the buffalo away,

-and bringing the horses nearer camp. When he got near, the buffalo did

-not seem much disposed to move and he shot at one of them and wounded

-him. He moved a little farther and Brother Glines followed him and shot

-three times more at him. The buffalo then ran about forty rods, fell,

-and soon expired. I went to look at him. He is a large one, judged to

-weigh about 700 pounds, and in pretty good order. I left the brethren

-skinning him and returned to camp where a meeting had been called at

-5:00 p.m., and the brethren addressed by Elders Richards, Markham,

-Rockwood and Kimball, chiefly on the subject of obeying counsel, and

-Elder Kimball remarked in regard to hunting on the Sabbath. He would

-not do it even in case of necessity, but he did not feel disposed to

-find fault with the brethren. The laws and regulations for the camp of

-April 18th were then read by Brother Bullock and the meeting dismissed.

-About noon today Brother Appleton Harmon completed the machinery on

-the wagon called a "roadometer" by adding a wheel to revolve once in

-ten miles, showing each mile and also each quarter mile we travel, and

-then casing the whole over so as to secure it from the weather. We are

-now prepared to tell accurately, the distance we travel from day to

-day which will supersede the idea of guessing, and be a satisfaction

-not only to this camp, but to all who hereafter travel this way. I

-have prepared another board to put up here on which the distance from

-Winter Quarters is marked at 356¾ miles. I have also written on it that

-the last seventy miles are measured, and we shall continue to measure

-and put up guide posts as often as circumstances will permit through

-the journey. The whole machinery consists of a shaft about 18 inches

-long placed on gudgeons, one in the axle tree of the wagon, near which

-are six arms placed at equal distances around it, and in which a cog

-works which is fastened on the hub of the wagon wheel, turning the

-shaft once round at every six revolutions of the wagon wheel. The upper

-gudgeon plays in a piece of wood nailed to the wagon box, and near this

-gudgeon on the shaft a screw is cut. The shaft lays at an angle of

-about forty-five degrees. In this screw, a wheel of sixty cogs works on

-an axle fixed in the side of the wagon, and which makes one revolution

-each mile. In the shaft on which this wheel runs, four cogs are cut

-on the fore part which plays in another wheel of forty cogs which

-shows the miles and quarters to ten miles. The whole is cased over and

-occupies a space of about 18 inches long, 15 inches high and 3 inches

-thick.</p>

-

-<p>After the meeting was dismissed, the cutter was sent to fetch the

-meat in, killed by Brother Glines. They soon returned and the meat

-was distributed as usual. Presidents Young and Kimball have walked

-out together towards the bluffs. After supper Elder Whipple made me

-a present of a half a candle made from buffalo tallow, by the light

-of which I continue this journal. Although, as may be expected, the

-buffalo are generally poorer at this season of the year, yet Brother

-Whipple has obtained sufficient to make two candles from his portion

-of meat received yesterday morning. The candle burns very clear and

-pleasant. The tallow smells sweet and rich. I imagine it has a more

-pleasant smell than the tallow of domestic cattle.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, May 17</h3>

-

-<p>The morning very cold and chilly, wind northwest. Dr. Richards left

-another letter on the camp ground for the benefit of the next company.

-The letter is secured from the weather by a wooden case, and placed so

-that the brethren can hardly miss finding it.</p>

-

-<p>We started on our journey at 8:13 a.m. After traveling a mile and a

-half, we arrived at the foot of another range of bluffs which extend to

-the river, and began to ascend about a quarter of a mile north from the

-river, the road also turning to the north. A quarter of a mile farther,

-we crossed a stream of spring water about three feet wide. The road for

-a little distance on both sides the stream is rough, sandy and crooked.

-We then turned westward, and passed over a number of bluffs as there

-was no chance to go around them without going miles out of our course.

-On these sandy bluffs, there are very many small lizards about four or

-five inches long from nose to the end of the tail, which is an inch and

-a half long. The body looks short and chunky and is of a light grey

-color with two rows of dark brown spots on each side of the body which

-make it appear striped. The head is shaped something like the head of

-a snake. They appear perfectly harmless and are pretty in appearance.

-After traveling two and a quarter miles beyond the last mentioned

-stream, we arrived at the west foot of the bluffs. The last part of the

-road very sandy and there are several very steep places of descent.

-However all the teams got safely over without difficulty. At the west

-foot of the bluffs, there appears more grass than anywhere we have

-yet been, although the buffalo have eaten it off considerably. Within

-a quarter of a mile from the bluffs, we crossed two small streams of

-spring water and at a mile from the foot of the bluffs, we crossed a

-stream of spring water about four feet wide with a very rapid current.

-The whole of this bottom seems full of springs and we have to keep near

-the bluffs to make a good road to travel, and in fact, we find it more

-or less soft and springy even close to the bluffs. A mile and a quarter

-west of the last mentioned spring is another small stream of very clear

-spring water. The others are rather muddy by running over sandy land.

-They all appear to have their rise in the bluffs a short distance from

-our road. At 11:35 we stopped to feed having traveled this morning,

-six and three quarters miles. Our course west, weather fine, warm, and

-little wind. While we were resting, one of President Young's horses

-(in care of Phineas) mired down in a soft slough. A number of men soon

-collected and with a rope dragged it out, washed and rubbed it, and all

-was well again. Latitude 41° 12' 50".</p>

-

-<p>At two o'clock, we proceeded onward. After traveling a half a mile, we

-arrived at a very shoal stream of clear water about thirty feet wide

-but not over three inches deep in the channel which is about three feet

-wide. We forded it very easily and then passed over a short range of

-low sandy bluffs about a quarter of a mile wide and then entered on

-level prairie again, but we found it very soft and springy. Within two

-and a half miles from the last mentioned stream we passed two others,

-one very small, the other about four feet wide. They both doubtless

-rise from springs at the foot of the bluffs. About ten minutes after

-three o'clock, word arrived that a buffalo was killed by the hunters

-about a mile from the road. Two men were sent to skin and dress it.

-About the same time the revenue cutter arrived with two more buffalo,

-one said to have been killed by Luke Johnson and the other by John

-Brown, also an antelope killed by Amasa Lyman. The wagons halted at

-a quarter to four, took the meat out of the boat, which immediately

-returned to fetch the other buffalo which was killed by Porter

-Rockwell. The meat was cut in quarters and put into the wagons and at

-half past four o'clock we again moved onward and traveled till 5:50

-p.m. and camped on a nice dry bottom prairie where the grass is shorter

-than that we have passed all day. We traveled this afternoon six miles

-and during the day twelve and three quarters, about a west course. We

-are some distance from water but several wells were soon dug and good

-water obtained at about four feet deep. Soon after we camped the boat

-came in with the other buffalo and the meat was all distributed equally

-around the camp, but it appears that some have already got more than

-they need and feel unwilling to take a good forequarter. The bluffs

-on the opposite side the river project to the river for some distance

-opposite this place. Latitude 41° 13' 20".</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, May 18</h3>

-

-<p>The morning fine and very pleasant. At seven o'clock the President

-called the captains of tens to his wagons and gave them a pretty severe

-lecture. He referred to some who had left meat on the ground and would

-not use it because it was not hind quarter. Some would murmur because

-a fore quarter of meat was alloted to them, etc., which is not right,

-for God has given us a commandment that we should not waste meat, nor

-take life unless it is needful, but he can see a disposition in this

-camp to slaughter everything before them, yea if all the buffalo and

-game there is on our route were brought together to the camp, there are

-some who would never cease until they had destroyed the whole. Some men

-will shoot as much as thirty times at a rabbit if they did not kill it,

-and are continually wasting their ammunition, but when they have used

-all they have got, they may have the pleasure of carrying their empty

-guns to the mountains and back, for he will not furnish them. We have

-now meat enough to last some time if we will take proper care of it. As

-to the horsemen, there are none with the exception of Brothers Kimball,

-Woodruff and Benson, that ever take the trouble to look out a good road

-for the wagons but all they seem to care about is to wait till their

-breakfast is cooked for them, and when they have eaten it, they mount

-their horses and scatter away, and if an antelope comes across the

-track, the whole of us must be stopped perhaps half an hour while they

-try to creep up near enough to kill it, but when we come to a bad place

-on the route, all the interest they have is to get across the best

-they can and leave myself and one or two others to pick out a crossing

-place and guide the camp all the time. Such things are not right, and

-he wants them to cease and all take an interest in the welfare of the

-camp, be united, and receive the meat as a blessing from God and not as

-a stink offering from the devil. It is not necessary to preach to the

-elders in this camp, they know what is right as well as he does, and he

-will not preach to them all the time. Let the captains do the best they

-know how and teach their men to do likewise. The meeting dispersed,

-the meat was taken care of and at a quarter past eight we started out

-again, and traveled three and a quarter miles nearly a west course

-over a very hard prairie and good traveling and then arrived at a nice

-stream, Rattlesnake creek, about twenty or twenty-five feet wide, a

-foot or 18 inches deep and a very strong current. This stream must take

-its rise some distance back in the bluffs or else is supplied from many

-strong springs, for there is much water comes down it. We traveled on

-from this near the bank of the river about a northwest course over

-tolerably rough land till 11:10 and then stopped to feed having come

-six and a half miles this morning, the weather very hot. Opposite the

-stream last mentioned on the south side the river, are several pine

-groves, or rather cedar groves. There is some little pine wood, such

-as knots and dead branches that can be picked up on the banks of the

-river. It has floated from above. This, with a little buffalo chips,

-makes a good fire for cooking. Latitude noon 41° 3' 44". Rattlesnake

-creek was so named from the following incident: President Young, as he

-rode up to the banks of the creek discovered that his horse stepped

-within a foot of a very large rattlesnake. He turned his horse away

-without harming it. Soon afterward, one of the brethren came up on foot

-and stepped within two feet and a half of it. It immediately coiled up

-and sprang at him and would have struck him (as it sprang 2½ feet) had

-he not jumped to one side. He took his rifle and shot the snake dead.</p>

-

-<p>The head of Cedar Bluffs, as named by Fremont, is three miles west of

-where we camped last night. At 1:05 p.m. we continued our journey.

-Our route lay near the banks of the river which seems narrower here.

-After traveling three and a half miles, we crossed a stream about six

-feet wide, and three quarters of a mile farther another stream of

-tolerably deep, clear water about five feet wide. This stream is very

-crooked and seems to run from the bluffs to the river in a perfect

-serpentine or zig zag direction. Soon after starting this afternoon, we

-discovered some dog towns, the grass eaten perfectly bare all around.

-The feed is growing worse again, evidently eaten up by the buffalo. At

-noon, a heavy black cloud arose in the west and we had a little rain,

-accompanied by lightning and distant thunder. After passing the last

-mentioned creek about a mile, we had to change our course to nearly

-northwest on account of a bend in the river. We traveled till 5:30

-and formed our encampment on the west bank of a running stream about

-eight feet wide and one foot deep which is five miles from the crooked

-creek, making our afternoon's travel nine and a quarter miles and the

-day's travel fifteen and three quarters. The bluffs and the river here

-are about a quarter of a mile apart, the river very wide, feed poor,

-plenty of float wood, pine and cedar, for fuel. The weather calm and

-warm, though cloudy. After encampment was formed, went with Elder Orson

-Pratt to Dr. Richards' wagon to enter into arrangements for making

-a map of our route. The doctor wants me to do it, assisted by Elder

-Pratt's observations. He handed me Fremont's map, and I retired to my

-wagon to commence operations, but soon found that the map does not

-agree with my scale nor Elder Pratt's calculations. I then proposed to

-Elder Pratt to wait until we get through the journey and take all the

-necessary data and then make a new one instead of making our route on

-Fremont's. The subject is left here till morning. After supper I took

-my candle and finished this day's journal. At dark Colonel Markham

-called the camp together to tell the brethren their duty in regard

-to traveling, guarding teams, and standing guard at nights. The old

-laws of April 18th were talked over and additional by-laws added, but

-not being present I did not hear them, neither can I learn anything

-from those who were present, for they all say that there were so many

-little matters touched upon, and so many resolutions passed that they

-remembered only one--and that is, when any man goes out of the

-sound of the horn to fetch in his team, and sees another man's horse

-or mule or ox, a little beyond or near his, he shall drive it also to

-camp, and if he neglect to do so, he shall be sent back to do it even

-if it requires an escort to make him. About seven o'clock the wind

-shifted around to the north and blew strong and cold.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, May 19</h3>

-

-<p>It has rained a little most of the night and still looks gloomy, cloudy

-and like for a rainy day. Inasmuch as the feed is not good here, it

-was thought best to move on before breakfast a few miles and seek

-better feed. We started out at 5:05, the second division having the

-right to lead, but a part of the first division being ready a little

-before all the second were ready, they rushed on their teams, drove

-fast and those of the second division behind had to leave the track

-and run their teams to take their places. We traveled two and three

-quarters miles, our course eleven and one fourth degrees north of west,

-and then crossed a stream three feet wide, and one quarter of a mile

-farther crossed another four feet wide. Our route lay within about

-one quarter of a mile from the bluffs and a mile from the river which

-takes a bend south from where we camped last night and runs close to

-the bluffs on the south side. We then turned our course to a little

-west of northwest as the river bends again to the bluffs on this side,

-and traveled a quarter of a mile farther and halted for breakfast at

-6:20, having traveled three and a quarter miles. The main body of the

-camp have stopped a quarter of a mile back, being three miles from

-where we started this morning. The road is mostly sandy, tall grass of

-last year's growth. The two streams we passed seem to form many ponds

-of clear water extending at short distances from each other from the

-bluffs to the river. Elder Kimball has been ahead over the bluffs to

-look out the road. It continues to rain a little occasionally with

-light north wind. Elder Kimball found that the bluffs project entirely

-to the river and are very sandy, but we can cross them without going

-out of our course. At twenty minutes to nine, we proceeded onward a

-little and then waited till the rest of the wagons came up. At the

-distance of nearly a mile and a half, we crossed a stream about twenty

-feet wide, not very deep, neither very good to cross, and exactly at

-the distance of a mile and a half, we arrived at the foot of the bluffs

-and began to ascend without doubling teams. Some of the teams stuck by,

-but by the assistance of the extra men, they all got up. The bluffs

-are very high, sandy and rough, and the sand cuts down considerably,

-making it heavy on teams. These bluffs are three quarters of a mile

-from the east foot to the west foot following our trail which is nearly

-straight. About 200 yards from the west foot of the bluffs, we crossed

-another stream five feet wide. It has rained heavily all the time

-since we started after breakfast and continues. Consequently at half

-past ten the camp formed into platoons and then halted to wait for

-more favorable weather, having traveled six miles today over the worst

-road we have had from Winter Quarters, rendered worse, doubtless, by

-the heavy rains. About half past two the weather looked a little more

-favorable and orders were given to move on. We started at five minutes

-to three, about which time it again rained heavily. We traveled two

-miles and then formed our encampment in a semi-circle on the banks of

-the river, having traveled two miles and through the day, eight miles.

-The first mile this evening was over very soft prairie, the last hard

-and good. The rain still continues to pour down heavily and this has

-been the most uncomfortable day we have had and the hardest on our

-teams. The brethren, however, feel well and cheerful. The ox teams are

-improving in their condition, but the horses do not stand it as well.

-The stream at the east foot of the last mentioned bluffs was named

-Wolf creek from the following circumstance: When Elder Kimball went

-ahead this morning to search out a road, he went up the creek about a

-mile and around over the bluffs to find, if possible, a better road

-than the one close to the river. While he was searching, about a mile

-north from the river he went down into a deep hollow surrounded by high

-bluffs and as he was riding along at the bottom, he turned his head

-to the left and saw two very large wolves at about five rods distance

-gazing at him. One of them he said was nearly as large as a two year

-old steer. When he saw these he looked around on the other side and saw

-several others about the same distance from him, very large ones, and

-all gazing fiercely at him. This startled him considerably, and more

-especially when he reflected that he had no arms. He made a noise to

-try to scare them away but they still stood, and he concluded to move

-away as soon as he could. They did not follow him and he saw a dead

-carcass near, which satisfied him that he had interrupted their repast.

-On mentioning this circumstance to President Young, they named the

-creek "Wolf Creek." He traveled back and forth over ten miles searching

-out a road before breakfast. He also went out again afterwards and

-got badly wet. He then concluded to change his clothing and remain

-in his wagon. The evening is very cool and cloudy with wind from the

-northeast. The rain had ceased about six o'clock, but it still looks

-stormy.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, May 20</h3>

-

-<p>The morning fair, but cloudy, light wind from northwest and cold. At

-7:45 we started out again but had not traveled over a quarter of a

-mile before the roadometer gave way on account of the rain yesterday

-having caused the wood to swell and stick fast. One of the cogs in

-the small wheel broke. We stopped about a half an hour and Appleton

-Harmon took it to pieces and put it up again without the small wheel.

-I had to count each mile after this. Three quarters of a mile from

-where we camped, we crossed a creek eight feet wide and two and a half

-feet deep. We then changed our course to about southwest a mile or so

-following the banks of the river, as the ground was wet and swampy

-nearer the bluffs. The river then winds around about three miles in a

-bend and then strikes a little north of west. The bluffs on the north

-appear to be about two miles from the river. We traveled till 11:15 and

-then halted to feed, having traveled seven and three quarters miles

-over tolerably good road, though at the commencement somewhat soft. On

-the opposite side the river, the bluffs project near its banks. They

-are rocky and almost perpendicular, beautified for miles by groves of

-cedar. Opposite to where we are halted, we can see a ravine running up

-the bluffs and at the foot, a flat bottom of about fifteen acres. At

-the farther side of this bottom is a grove of trees not yet in leaf.

-Brother Brown thinks they are ash and that the place is what is called

-Ash Hollow and on Fremont's map, Ash Creek. We all felt anxious to

-ascertain the fact whether this is Ash Hollow or not, for if it is,

-the Oregon trail strikes the river at this place, and if it can be

-ascertained that such is the fact, we then have a better privilege of

-testing Fremont's distances to Laramie. We have already discovered that

-his map is not altogether correct in several respects, and particularly

-in showing the windings of the river and the distance of the bluffs

-from it. I suggested the propriety of some persons going over in the

-boat and Brother John Brown suggested it to President Young. The

-boat was soon hauled by the brethren to the river, and Orson Pratt,

-Amasa Lyman, Luke Johnson and John Brown started to row over, but the

-current was so exceedingly strong the oars had no effect. John Brown

-then jumped into the river which was about two and a half feet deep

-and dragged the boat over, the others assisting with the oars. After

-some hard labor they arrived on the opposite shore and went to the

-hollow. They soon found the Oregon trail and ascertained that this is

-Ash Hollow, Brother Brown having traveled on that road to near Laramie

-last season with the Mississippi company and knew the place perfectly

-well. They gathered some branches of wild cherry in full bloom, rambled

-over the place a little while and then returned to camp. About the same

-time the camp prepared to pursue their journey. The brethren arrived

-and made their report, and at 1:45 p.m. we proceeded onward. From the

-appearance of the bluffs ahead, our course this afternoon will be west

-and northwest. A light breeze from northwest. Soon after we started,

-one of the brethren killed a large rattlesnake within a rod of the road

-made by the wagons and on the side where the cows travel. He killed it

-to prevent its injuring the cows and threw it away from the road. In

-the river one and a quarter miles above Ash Hollow, there are several

-small islands on which grow many trees of cedar. One of these islands

-is perfectly green over with cedar and looks beautiful. The bluffs also

-on the south side the river continue to be lined with cedar apparently

-for two miles yet and are very high and almost perpendicular, running

-pretty close to the river. On this side the river, the bluffs seem to

-bear farther to the north, being apparently about three miles from the

-river, and a few miles farther west they are as much as five miles from

-the river. After traveling three and a quarter miles from the noon

-stop, we crossed a tributary stream running into the Platte, in a very

-crooked direction, being from four to eight rods wide and two and a

-half feet deep most of the way across, the bottom quick sand, current

-rapid and water of sandy color like the Platte. Some had to double

-teams to get over, but all got over safely. We proceeded on about four

-miles farther and found that the river bends considerably to the north.

-The bluffs also bend to the south, so that the low bluffs in front

-almost reach the banks only barely leaving room for a road. We went

-a little farther and camped for the night at half past five, having

-traveled this afternoon eight miles, making fifteen and three quarters

-miles during the day. Elder Kimball and several others went forward

-on horses to pick out our road as usual. I have seen several kinds of

-herbs growing today which appear new to me. One looks like penny royal,

-smells almost like it, but tastes hot and like the oil of cloves.

-Elder Kimball and others saw a very large wolf about half a mile west,

-and he appeared to be following them to camp. They turned and rode up

-to him and round him, struck their pistols at him, but they did not

-go off, being damp. He finally made his escape. The large stream we

-crossed this afternoon is named Castle Creek from the bluffs on the

-opposite side which much resemble the rock on which Lancaster Castle is

-built. The bluffs are named Castle Bluffs. We had a light shower this

-afternoon, but the evening is fine though very cool.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, May 21</h3>

-

-<p>The morning very fine and pleasant though tolerably cold. I put up

-a guide board at this place with the following inscriptions on it:

-"From Winter Quarters 409 miles. From the junction of the North and

-South Forks, 93¼ miles. From Cedar Bluffs, south side the river, 36½

-miles. Ash Hollow, south side the river, 8 miles. Camp of Pioneers May

-21, 1847. According to Fremont, this place is 132 miles from Laramie.

-N. B. The bluffs opposite are named Castle Bluffs." At 7:35 we

-continued our journey. We found the prairie tolerably wet, many ponds

-of water standing which must have been caused by a heavy fall of

-rain, much more heavy than we had back. However, it was not very bad

-traveling. We made a pretty straight road this morning at about the

-distance of a mile from the river. The bluffs on the north appear to

-be five miles or over from our road. At 11:15 we halted for dinner,

-having traveled nearly seven and three quarters miles, course north

-of northwest, very warm and no wind. Presidents Young and Kimball

-rode forward to pick the road, and near this place they saw a nest of

-wolves, caught and killed two with sticks. Four or five others escaped

-to their hole. At half past one we proceeded onward and found the

-prairie wet, and grass high of last year's growth. After traveling four

-and three quarters miles we arrived at a range of low bluffs projecting

-to the river, which at this place bends to the north. There is,

-however, bottom of about a rod wide between the bluffs and the river,

-but as it is wet and soft, it was preferred to cross over the bluffs by

-bending a little more to the north. We traveled on the bluffs a little

-over a quarter of a mile and then turned on the bottom again. The

-bluffs are low and almost as level as the bottom. After we crossed the

-bluffs we found the road better. We saw about a mile this side of the

-foot of the bluffs, a very large bone almost petrified into stone. Most

-of the brethren believe it to be the shoulder bone of a mammoth, and is

-very large indeed. About this time a badger was brought to the wagons

-which Brother Woodruff had killed. As I was walking along and looking

-over the river, I heard a rattlesnake, and looking down saw that I had

-stepped within a foot of it. It rattled hard but seemed to make away.

-We threw it away from the track without killing it. At five o'clock

-Elder Kimball rode up and stopped the forward teams till the last ones

-got nearer saying that some Indians had come down from the bluffs to

-the brethren ahead. When the rest of the wagons came up we moved on a

-quarter of a mile farther and at half past five formed our encampment

-in a circle with the wagons close together as possible, having traveled

-seven and three quarters miles this afternoon, making fifteen and a

-half through the day. As the camp was forming the two Indians came

-nearer, being a man and his squaw. They represented by signs that they

-were Sioux and that a party of them are now on the bluffs north of us

-and not far distant. By the aid of glasses we could see several on

-the bluffs with their ponies, evidently watching our movements. This

-man was hunting when first seen and appeared afraid when he saw the

-brethren. The squaw fled for the bluffs as fast as her horse could go,

-but by signs made to them they gathered courage and came up. President

-Young gave orders not to bring them into camp, and they soon rode off

-to the bluffs. The man has got a good cloth coat on and appears well

-dressed. The horses they rode are said to be work horses which makes

-us suspect they have stolen them from travelers. The day has been

-very warm and some of the teams gave out. We can see some timber on

-the bluffs on the other side of the river some miles ahead which is

-the first timber we have seen for more than a week, except some small

-cedar and the timber in Ash Hollow, all on the south side the river.

-We are nearly a mile from water and the brethren have to dig wells to

-obtain a supply for cooking. The feed here is very poor, not much but

-old grass. Our course this afternoon has been a little north of west.

-Lorenzo Young shot two very large ducks with one ball and brought them

-to camp. Elder Kimball proposed tonight that I should leave a number of

-pages for so much of his journal as I am behind in copying and start

-from the present and keep it up daily. He furnished me a candle and I

-wrote the journal of this day's travel by candle light in his journal,

-leaving fifty-six pages blank. The evening was very fine and pleasant.

-The latitude at noon halt 41° 24' 5".</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, May 22</h3>

-

-<p>Morning beautiful, no wind and warm. We have not been disturbed by

-the Indians; all is peace in the camp. At eight o'clock we continued

-our journey, making a more crooked road than usual, having to bend

-south to near the banks of the river. The prairie somewhat soft and a

-little uneven. After traveling five and a half miles we crossed a very

-shoal creek about twenty feet wide. The bluffs and river about a mile

-apart, but on the other side, the bluffs recede two miles back from

-the river and have lost their craggy and steep appearance, the ascent

-being gradual, while on this side they begin to be rocky, cragged and

-almost perpendicular though not very high. We traveled till half past

-eleven and then halted for noon, having traveled seven and a quarter

-miles, the road on this side the creek being better. Our course about

-west of northwest with a light breeze from the east. Elder Kimball and

-others ahead as usual. The creek above mentioned was named Crab Creek

-because some of the brethren saw a very large crab in it. A mile east

-of this creek is a dry creek, down which, from appearances, a heavy

-stream runs at some seasons of the year, perhaps during heavy storms.

-The water running from the bluffs swells it to a considerable height

-and it is certain there are tremendous storms here. A while after we

-halted, Porter Rockwell came in and said he had been on the high bluff

-about a mile northwest of us and had seen the rock called Chimney Rock

-which appeared a long distance off. We have been in hopes to come in

-sight of it today and feel anxious in order to ascertain more certainly

-the correctness of Fremont's distance. In order to satisfy myself,

-although my feet were blistered and very sore, I determined to take my

-telescope and go on the bluff to ascertain for myself whether the noted

-rock could be seen or not. At half past twelve I started out alone. I

-found the distance to the foot of the bluff a good mile, the ascent

-gradual. From the foot the bluff looks very high and rough, many huge

-rocks having broken from the summit from time to time and rolled down a

-long distance. I found the ascent very steep and lengthy in comparison

-to its appearance from camp. When I arrived on the top I found a nice

-slightly arched surface of about a quarter of an acre in extent, but

-barren and very little grass on it. Huge comparatively smooth rocks

-peeped through the surface on one of which I wrote with red chalk:

-"Wm. Clayton. May 22, 1847." On the highest point I sat down and took

-a view of the surrounding country which is magnificent indeed. On the

-south at the distance of two miles from the river, there is a range of

-cedar trees on the bluffs which very much resemble some of the parks

-and seats of gentry in England. East I could see where we camped last

-night, the high grass still burning. Northeast, north, and northwest,

-alternately, appeared high swelling bluffs and valleys as far as the

-eye could see or the glass magnify. West, the course of the Platte for

-ten or fifteen miles and at about four or five miles distance, a large

-bend to the north brings it in contact with the bluffs on this side.

-At the distance, I should judge of about twenty miles, I could see

-Chimney Rock very plainly with the naked eye, which from here very much

-resembles the large factory chimneys in England, although I could not

-see the form of its base. The rock lay about due west from here. After

-gratifying my curiosity, and seeing the men collecting their teams

-for a march, I descended on the west side of the bluff. The descent

-at this point looks more alarming than on the other. The side being

-very steep and all along huge rocks standing so critically, that to

-all appearance, a waft of wind would precipitate them to the prairie

-below with tremendous force. In one place in particular, a ponderous

-mass of rock appears to hang from the edge of the bluff without any

-visible means of being retained in its position, and by gazing at it

-a little while, it is easy to imagine you can see it move and ready

-to overwhelm you instantly. At a little distance from the base of the

-bluff, I turned to gaze on the romantic scenery above and was struck at

-the appearance of a large rock projecting from one corner, which very

-much resembled a frog's head of immense size with its mouth part open.

-The thought was, those bluffs ought to be named and what name more

-appropriate than Frog's Head Bluffs. After this reflection, I walked on

-to where I thought the wagons would come which started out at half past

-one. After traveling three and a quarter miles we crossed a dry creek

-about six rods wide, and a quarter of a mile farther, another about

-five feet wide and a half a mile farther, still another about six rods

-wide on an average. These all appear to be the sources of heavy streams

-of water at some seasons of the year. Soon as we crossed this last

-one, I saw Elder Kimball wave his hat for the wagons to turn off to

-the north in order to cross the bluffs which struck the river a little

-farther. But a little to the west was a very high ridge and I concluded

-to walk on to it. Found it to be a perfect ridge of gravel, very high

-and rounding on the top, not more than four or five feet wide and from

-north to south about 150 feet long. Elder Pratt names this Cobble

-Hills, the gravel or cobbles varying in size of from fifty pounds in

-weight to the smallest pebble. At the north foot of this hill is what

-might be named a clay bank, being composed of a light colored kind of

-sandy clay and forms a kind of large table. A little distance farther,

-we crossed another dry creek about eight rods wide and then ascended

-the bluffs. The ascent is pretty steep for nearly half a mile, but

-hard and not difficult to travel. The wagon had to wind about some to

-keep around the foot of the bluffs, crossing the dry creek three times

-before we emerged from the bluffs to the banks of the river. We crossed

-another dry creek pretty steep on each side and then found ourselves

-once more on the prairie bottom. The bluffs are two and a quarter

-miles from the east to the west foot following our trail. The wind has

-blown from the southeast all day until lately, when a dead calm has

-succeeded. In the west a heavy thunder cloud has been gathering for

-two hours and vivid streaks of lightning observed in the distance. At

-twenty minutes to five the wind struck suddenly from the northwest, the

-blackest part of the cloud then lying in that direction. We had a few

-drops of rain only. Then it seemed to turn off to the east. The scenery

-after this was indeed sublime, the sun peering out from under the heavy

-clouds reflecting long rays upwards which were imitated in the east.

-The romantic bluffs on the north and the lightning playing in the

-southeast all tended to fill my mind with pleasant reflections, on the

-goodness and majesty of the Creator and Governor of the universe, and

-the beauty of the works of his hands. At 5:45 we formed our encampment

-in a circle within a quarter of a mile of the banks of the river,

-having traveled this afternoon, eight and a quarter miles and through

-the day fifteen and a half, making the distance from Winter Quarters

-440 miles in five weeks and three and a half days. The feed on the

-lower bench of the prairie is tolerably good, while the higher land is

-quite bare. We have noticed today a great many petrified bones, some

-very large. All are turned into solid, hard stone, which proves that

-the atmosphere is pure and the country would doubtless be healthy, but

-is not adapted for farming purposes on account of the poor sandy soil

-and no timber at all on this side the river. I have noticed a variety

-of shrubs, plants and flowers all new to me today, many of which have

-a very pleasant smell and in some places the air appears impregnated

-with the rich odors arising from them. Among the rest are numerous

-beds of the southern wood. There are also vast beds of flinty pebbles

-of various colors, some as white as alabaster. About 6:30 I observed a

-group of brethren standing together inside the camp. I went up and saw

-a young eagle which had been taken out of its nest on one of these high

-bluffs by George R. Grant and Orson Whitney. Although it is very young

-and its feathers have scarcely commenced growing, it measures from the

-tips of its wings when stretched, forty-six inches. Its head is nearly

-the size of my fist and looks very ferocious. After this I went with

-John Pack and Horace Whitney to the bluffs. On our way we saw a large

-wolf about as large as the largest dog in camp. He was within a quarter

-of a mile from camp. After traveling about a mile we arrived at the

-foot of a stupendous mass of rocks almost perpendicular, with only one

-place where it was possible to ascend. We went up with difficulty and

-by using our hands and knees, gained the top. We had to walk over a

-little space which was only about three feet wide and on the east side

-a perpendicular fall of about sixty feet. Although from the camp this

-peak looks only large enough for a man to stand upon we found it large

-enough to seat comfortably about twenty persons. The top is composed of

-large rocks and very uneven. The prairie below looks a long distance

-under foot from this peak. Descending we viewed the surrounding scenery

-which looks more like the ruins of an ancient city with its castles,

-towers, fortifications, etc., on all sides, and a dry stream coming

-through the center. We proceeded to the next high rock and found it

-very difficult of ascent. The top is nearly level and very pleasant. We

-discovered several other varieties of shrubbery, all smelling pleasant

-and strong. We saw that a horse has sometime stood on the top, but how

-he got there, we could not easily determine. At the east end there is

-a cedar tree flat on the top and on the underside almost looks like an

-umbrella. We made a calculation of the height of this bluff as well as

-we could and concluded it must be at least 200 feet higher than the

-river. The surrounding country can be seen for many miles from its

-summit, and Chimney Rock shows very plainly. We descended at the east

-end and arrived in camp at dark well satisfied with our journey. Some

-of the brethren have discovered a cave in one of these bluffs, and one

-went into it a little distance, but it being very dark and having no

-torch, he did not venture far. Elder Pratt reports that he saw on the

-top of one of the bluffs, a hole in a rock 15 inches in diameter and a

-foot deep with five inches of very cold good water in it. He supposed

-it to be a spring. Between the bluffs they also discovered a spring of

-pure cold water of a very good taste. Dr. Richards names these bluffs

-"Bluff Ruins" from their appearance being that of the ruins of castles,

-cities, etc. A little to the left is a small perpendicular rock much

-resembling Chimney Rock but smaller. The whole of the scenery around

-is one of romantic beauty which cannot be described with either pen or

-tongue. Last night a large black dog, half wolf, supposed to belong to

-the Indians, came to the camp. He has kept within two hundred yards of

-the wagons all day, and has followed us to this place. There have been

-many rattlesnakes seen today and six or seven killed. In fact, this

-place seems to abound with them. The evening was spent very joyfully by

-most of the brethren, it being very pleasant and moonlight. A number

-danced till the bugle sounded for bed time at nine o'clock. A mock

-trial was also prosecuted in the case of the camp vs. James Davenport

-for blockading the highway and turning ladies out of their course.

-Jackson Redding acted as the presiding judge. Elder Whipple attorney

-for defendant and Luke Johnson attorney for the people. We have many

-such trials in the camp which are amusing enough and tend among other

-things to pass away the time cheerfully during leisure moments. It was

-remarked this evening that we have one man in camp who is entitled to

-the credit of being more even tempered than any of the others, and that

-is Father Chamberlain. He is invariably cross and quarrelsome, but the

-brethren all take it as a joke and he makes considerable amusement for

-the camp. Opposite the encampment there are quite a number of small

-islands, but no timber on any of them.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, May 23</h3>

-

-<p>The morning very fine and pleasant. Brother Egan commenced washing

-very early on the banks of the river. He kindly volunteered to wash my

-dirty clothing which I accepted as a favor. After breakfast President

-Young, Elders Kimball, Richards, Pratt, Woodruff, Smith and Benson and

-Lyman walked out to view Bluff Ruins and returned at half past eleven.

-A while ago I went out a little distance to view an adder which George

-Billings had discovered. It was a dark brown color about 18 inches

-long and three quarters of an inch thick through the body. They are

-represented as very poisonous. About eleven o'clock Nathaniel Fairbanks

-came into camp having been bitten in the leg by a rattlesnake. He went

-on the bluffs with Aaron Farr and Brother Rolf and as they jumped off

-from the bluff, the snake bit him, the others having jumped over him

-farther. He said that in two minutes after he was bitten his tongue

-began to prick and feel numb. When he got to camp his tongue and

-hands pricked and felt numb as a person feels their feet sometimes

-when they are said to be asleep. The brethren immediately applied

-some tobacco juice and leaves, also turpentine, and bound tobacco on

-his leg which was considerably swollen. We laid hands on him and Luke

-Johnson administered a dose of lobelia in number six after he had taken

-a strong drink of alcohol and water. The lobelia soon vomitted him

-powerfully. He complains much of sickness at his stomach and dimness

-in his eyes. He appears to be in much pain. While the brethren of the

-quorum of the twelve were on one of the high detached bluffs they found

-the skeleton of a buffalo's head. Brother Woodruff wrote the names of

-all the quorum of the twelve present and set it upon the southwest

-corner of the bluff. John Brown also wrote his name on it. Elder Pratt

-took the altitude of the bluff and found it to be 235 feet above the

-surface of the river. He did not calculate the height above the sea,

-owing to the state of the atmosphere. He, however, predicted wind from

-the same cause. At twelve o'clock the camp was called together for

-meeting, and after singing and praying we were addressed by Elder Snow,

-followed by President Young. The latter said there were many items of

-doctrine which he often felt like teaching to the brethren, but as

-to administering sealing ordinances, etc., this is no time or place

-for them, they belong to the house of God and when we get located we

-shall have an opportunity to build a house, etc. He expressed himself

-satisfied with the conduct of the camp in general. He is pleased to

-see so much union and disposition to obey council among the brethren

-and hoped and prayed that it may continue and increase. He wants the

-brethren to seek after knowledge and be faithful to acknowledge God in

-all things but never take his name in vain nor use profane language.

-If all the knowledge in this camp were put together and brother Joseph

-were here in our midst, he could comprehend the whole of it and wind it

-around his little finger. And then think of the knowledge of angels,

-and above that, the knowledge of the Lord. There is much for us to

-learn and a faithful man who desires eternal glory will seek after

-knowledge all the time and his ideas never suffered to rust but are

-always bright. He will not throw away the knowledge of small things

-because they are familiar, but grasp all he can and keep doing so and

-by retaining many small things he will thus gain a large pile, etc.

-He expressed his feelings warmly towards all the brethren and prayed

-them to be faithful, diligent and upright, for we are now sowing seed,

-the fruit of which will be plucked in after days whether good or

-bad. G. A. Smith made a few remarks, also several others of the

-brethren. The president then stated that on Sunday next he wants the

-brethren to understand that there will be meeting at eleven o'clock and

-the sacrament administered, and he wants the brethren to attend, all

-that can, and not ramble off and fatigue themselves but use the Sabbath

-as a day of rest. He enjoined it upon Bishops T. Lewis, S. Roundy,

-J. S. Higbee and A. Everett to see that the proper necessities

-were prepared for the sacrament. The meeting was then dismissed. A

-while after meeting I walked out with Elder Kimball a piece from

-the camp. We sat down and I read to him my journal of the last four

-days, with which he seemed well pleased. We then knelt down together

-and poured out our souls to God for ourselves, the camp and our dear

-families in Winter Quarters. While we were engaged in prayer the wind

-rose suddenly from the northwest, a heavy cloud having been gathering

-from the west all the afternoon. A sudden gust struck Elder Kimball's

-hat and carried it off. After we got through, his hat was nowhere in

-sight, but following the direction of the wind we soon saw it at a

-distance on the bottom of the prairie still flying swiftly. We both ran

-and chased it about three quarters of a mile and caught it a little

-from the river. While we were out together I remarked that the buffalo

-gnat had bitten us very severely. Elder Kimball said they bit him very

-badly last evening. Their bite is very poisonous, and although they

-are extremely small, they punish a person very much with an itching,

-aching pain like a mosquito bite. About five o'clock the wind blew a

-perfect gale and continued till seven when it commenced to rain very

-heavily, large drops descending, accompanied with hail, which however,

-did not continue very long but the wind continued nearly all night.

-The lightning and thunder continued some time but not very severe. We

-saw the necessity of having good stout bows to our wagons, and the

-covers well fastened down, for the very stoutest seemed in danger of

-being torn to pieces and the wagons blown over. When the wind commenced

-blowing so strongly it turned very cold and long before dark I went to

-bed to keep warm. Brother Fairbanks seems considerably better. This

-evening President Young, Kimball and Benson laid hands on him and he

-seemed much better afterwards.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, May 24</h3>

-

-<p>The morning very cold indeed, strong wind from northwest. At 8:25 we

-continued our journey and traveled over level prairie ten miles, then

-halted to feed at 12:45. The bluffs on the north about two miles from

-us and the river one mile. About noon the weather began to moderate

-and grow warmer. While we were resting two Indians came to camp, their

-object evidently being to get the dog which has followed us to this

-place. They tarried a little while and then went away taking the dog

-with them. At 3:00 p.m., we again proceeded and traveled till 6:00

-p.m., distance six and a half miles, during the day 16½. Several of

-the horse teams gave out and they are evidently failing but the oxen

-are gaining daily. The mules stand the journey well and in fact all

-the teams, considering the scarcity of grass. About 5:30 we discovered

-a party of Indians on the opposite side the river moving west. When

-we formed our encampment they crossed over the river. Some of the

-brethren went to meet them carrying a white flag with them. When the

-Indians saw the flag, some of them began to sing, and their chief held

-up a U. S. flag. It was soon ascertained that their object was to

-obtain something to eat. A number of them came to the camp and were

-conducted around by Colonels Markham and Rockwood. They were shown a

-six and fifteen shooter also the cannon and the gunners went through

-the evolutions a number of times which seemed to please them much.

-They are all well dressed and very noble looking, some having good

-clean blankets, others nice robes artfully ornamented with beads and

-paintings. All had many ornaments on their clothing and ears, some had

-nice painted shells suspended from the ear. All appeared to be well

-armed with muskets. Their moccasins were indeed clean and beautiful.

-One had a pair of moccasins of a clear white, ornamented with beads,

-etc. They fit very tight to the foot. For cleanness and neatness,

-they will vie with the most tasteful whites. They are thirty-five

-in number, about half squaws and children. They are Sioux and have

-two recommends certifying as to their friendship, etc. The brethren

-contributed something to eat which was sent to them. Our course today

-has been nearly west, with a cool wind. The evening fine but cold

-enough to freeze clothing stiff when laid on the grass to dry. Elder

-Kimball has been quite unwell all day and mostly kept to his wagon.

-Opposite the camp on the south side the river is a very large rock very

-much resembling a castle of four stories high, but in a state of ruin.

-A little to the east a rock stands which looks like a fragment of a

-very thick wall. A few miles to the west Chimney Rock appears in full

-view. The scenery around is pleasant and romantic. After the Indians

-had viewed the camp, they returned to their horses and the rest of the

-party who have camped on the banks of the river about a quarter of

-a mile west of us. Elder Sherwood returned with them and soon after

-came back accompanied by the chief and his squaw who signified a wish

-to abide with our camp tonight. The brethren fixed up a tent for them

-to sleep under; Porter Rockwell made them some coffee, and they were

-furnished with some victuals. The old chief amused himself very much by

-looking at the moon through a telescope for as much as twenty minutes.

-Brother Fairbanks is much better this evening. Last night Luke Johnson

-discovered a very large petrified bone in the neighborhood of the

-bluffs as much as two feet wide, but he could not ascertain the length

-of it. After laboring sometime ineffectually to dig it up, he broke off

-two pieces and brought them to camp. They are very white and hard. It

-is now eleven o'clock. I have been writing in Elder Kimball's journal

-since dark, and have but little chance to write as much as I want in

-my own and his both, but I feel determined to do all I can to keep a

-journal of this expedition which will be interesting to my children

-in after days, and perhaps to many of the Saints. The evening is very

-fine but cool and I retire to rest with the feeling: "God bless my dear

-family."</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, May 25</h3>

-

-<p>The morning fine and very pleasant. Most of the Indians, men, women

-and children came early to camp on their ponies and marched around

-mostly trying to obtain something to eat. Several little barters were

-made with them for moccasins, skins, etc. John S. Higbee traded ponies

-with one of them. They have some good ponies and some inferior ones,

-but both male and females are neatly dressed and very tidy. They look

-cheerful and pleased to witness the camp, etc. At 8:20 we proceeded

-onward. After we started, the Indians left us and went over the river.

-One mile from where we started, we began to ascend a low range of

-bluffs to avoid a large, high sandy ridge which projects to the river.

-We traveled three quarters of a mile and descended again to the level

-prairie. At 9:40 we halted to let the cattle and teams graze, the feed

-being good and plentiful, having traveled two and a half miles, mostly

-northwest around a bend of the river. The sun is very hot, the roads

-sandy and hard teaming. The river is probably three quarters of a mile

-wide here and on this side there are many small islands. At 11:15

-continued our journey and traveled till half past one, distance four

-and three quarters miles over a very soft, wet, level prairie. We then

-halted to feed and rest our teams, as they have been hard drawn nearly

-all day. We have seen no game for several days except a few antelope

-and hares. The buffalo appear to have left this region and in fact

-there are little signs of many having been here. The feed is poor,

-mostly last year's growth and very short. One of the hunters killed

-an antelope, which was brought to camp and divided to the captains of

-tens. At 3:00 p.m. we started again and traveled till a quarter to

-six, distance four and three quarters miles, and during the day twelve

-miles. For three miles of the first of this afternoon we had a good

-road, but the last part has been very wet and soft, numerous ponds

-of water standing all around caused by heavy rains. We have camped

-on a very wet spot, but the feed being poor where it was drier, it

-was decided to stay for the benefit of the teams. Our course has been

-about northwest, very little wind and the day very warm. Chimney Rock

-shows very plain and appears not more than two miles distance but is no

-doubt five miles distance or over. Another antelope has been killed and

-brought in by the hunters. Elder Orson Pratt is taking an observation

-to ascertain the height of Chimney Rock. The evening was very pleasant

-and the brethren passed away their time till after nine o'clock

-dancing. Porter Rockwell shot the two antelope spoken of above. He also

-shot two wolves. Latitude six and a quarter miles back, 41° 41' 46".</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, May 26</h3>

-

-<p>The morning very fine and pleasant. I have spent the morning working

-on Dr. Richards' map. At eight o'clock continued on our journey. Elder

-Pratt taking observations to tell the distance our road lies from

-Chimney Rock. Yesterday morning Stephen Markham traded a mule which was

-foundered and unable to work to one of the Indians for a pony. They put

-him in the harness a little towards evening and again this morning.

-When crossing a very soft place the whipple tree unhitched and struck

-against his heels. He ran full gallop towards the head teams and twice

-through the line of wagons causing several teams, horses and oxen both,

-to spring from the road and run some distance before the men could

-stop them. After running nearly a mile some of the brethren caught

-the pony, brought him back and put him to the wagon again without any

-accident, except a little injury to the harness. After traveling four

-and five-eighths miles, we arrived at a point directly north of Chimney

-Rock which we ascertained by the compass, having traveled since it

-was first discovered 41½ miles. We proceeded till twelve o'clock and

-halted to feed, having traveled seven and a quarter miles, a northwest

-course, the road very straight and hard excepting a few spots where the

-water stands caused by late heavy rains. We turned south a little to

-get to grass as the higher prairie is barren, and scarcely any grass on

-it. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope and John Brown one which

-were brought into camp and are being divided amongst the companies as

-usual. Elder Pratt found that Chimney Rock is 260 feet high from its

-base to its summit and the distance from our road at the nearest point

-three miles. The latitude at noon halt 41° 45' 58". At 2:25 resumed our

-journey making our road nearer the river than this morning. The road

-somewhat crooked but good traveling. After traveling five miles, turned

-directly south to avoid a bad slough and went a quarter of a mile and

-then formed our encampment at five o'clock on the banks of the river.

-The last quarter of a mile was not reckoned in the day's travel which

-exclusive of that is 12¼ miles, course north of northwest. The feed

-here is good and sufficient to fill our teams well. Joseph Hancock

-killed an antelope which was brought into camp and distributed. Soon

-after we camped, walked out to the bank of the river with Presidents

-Young and Kimball to read to them some of the minutes of the old

-council. We were joined by Dr. Richards and tarried till seven o'clock,

-at which time a heavy black cloud was fast approaching from the west

-and was soon followed by a strong wind and a little rain which lasted

-only a short time. The evening afterwards warm and pleasant though

-somewhat cloudy. Carloss Murray has been trying to rear the young eagle

-caught on Saturday. After stopping tonight, he put it under a wagon and

-a while afterwards the men ran the wagon back, one of the wheels ran

-over its head and killed it. I wrote in Heber's journal till half past

-ten and then went to rest.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, May 27</h3>

-

-<p>The morning very fine. We have seen a number of romantic spots on our

-journey, but I consider our view this morning more sublime than any

-other. Chimney Rock lies southeast, opposite detached bluffs of various

-shapes and sizes. To the southwest, Scott's Bluffs look majestic and

-sublime. The prairie over which our route lies is very level and green

-as far as we can see. The bluffs on the north low, and about three

-miles distant. The scenery is truly delightful beyond imagination. I

-have finished making Dr. Richards' map to Chimney Rock. Elder Pratt

-has measured the width of the river at this place by the sextant and

-found it to be exactly 792 yards. At ten minutes to eight we continued

-our journey and traveled near the banks of the river till 11:45, being

-eight miles. The route very good, hard and good traveling, although

-a little crooked. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope and Amasa

-Lyman one, which were brought to the wagons and distributed. There

-are some heavy thunder clouds in the south and west and a nice breeze

-from northeast. At two o'clock we continued our journey over the same

-kind of dry level prairie, keeping not far distant from the banks of

-the river and making a straight road. At the distance of four and an

-eighth miles passed the meridian of the northernmost peak of Scott's

-Bluffs being 19¾ miles from the meridian of Chimney Rock. These bluffs

-are very high, steep, and broken like many others, resembling ancient

-ruins. They are probably two miles from north to south extremity, but

-not very wide. We traveled till 4:45 and formed our encampment in a

-circle near the banks of the river which from this place seems to bend

-for some distance to the north, having traveled this afternoon five and

-three quarters miles and during the day thirteen and three quarters,

-mostly northwest. Elders Kimball and Woodruff pointed out the road

-this forenoon. Afternoon Elder Kimball rode with me in Johnson's wagon

-while I read some of his journal to him. The evening is very cold, wind

-northeast, and raining some. Feed is good and the camp generally well.

-Another antelope was brought in by the hunters. The latitude of the

-northernmost peak of Scott's Bluffs 41° 50' 52".</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, May 28</h3>

-

-<p>The morning cool, damp, cloudy and some rain. Wind northeast. At about

-eight o'clock the brethren were called together and the question

-asked: shall we go on in the rain or wait until it is fair? All agreed

-to stay until it was fair. I went to writing in Heber's journal and

-wrote till nearly eleven o'clock. Elder Kimball came to the next wagon

-where some of the boys were playing cards. He told them his views and

-disapprobation of their spending time gaming and dancing and mock

-trying, etc., and especially the profane language frequently uttered

-by some. He reasoned with them on the subject and showed them that it

-would lead from bad to worse if persisted in until the consequences

-would become serious. He exhorted them to be more sober and wise. It

-growing fair, we started out at eleven o'clock, our first four miles

-being north of northwest in consequence of a bend in the river. We

-traveled beside a creek of very clear water about a mile. It rises

-about four miles northwest of where we camped last night and runs in

-a crooked direction till it empties into the river about a mile west

-of the camp. It rises from springs as was proved by Horace Whitney

-who traced it to its source where there is a spring rising out of a

-circular kind of wet swamp about six feet in diameter. The creek is

-about eight feet wide but not deep, the bottom is gravelly. Near where

-it empties into the river, they discovered a number of large spotted

-trout, suckers and dais of a good size. The water tasted very good and

-cold. At the distance of four miles we arrived and traveled at the foot

-of the bluffs, the road sandy and heavy on teams. We soon turned from

-the bluffs on a level barren prairie, hard and good traveling. At nine

-miles descended on a lower bench of prairie where we found it wet and

-soft though not bad rolling. At 4:45 formed our encampment near the

-river, having traveled eleven and a half miles, the last seven a little

-south of west. The feed here is not very good. Driftwood tolerably

-plentiful. We have seen a few small trees on the islands today but

-none on the north bank. Vast quantities of southern wood and prickley

-pear grow on these sandy prairies where there is no grass. The evening

-cloudy and dull with cold northeast wind. While Thomas Brown and Porter

-Rockwell were out hunting about five miles north of here, the former

-saw five or six Indians about a quarter of a mile from him. They also

-saw many new footprints of horses, which shows that there is a hunting

-party near.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, May 29</h3>

-

-<p>The morning cold, wet and cloudy with wind from northeast. We shall not

-travel unless it grows fair and better weather. I spent the morning

-writing in Elder Kimball's journal, but felt very unwell having

-taken cold yesterday and been sick all night. About ten o'clock, the

-weather looked a little better and at half past ten the bugle sounded

-as a signal for the teams to be got together. After the teams were

-harnessed, the brethren were called together to the boat in the circle.

-President Young taking his station in the boat, ordered each captain of

-ten to lead out his respective company and get all his men together. He

-then called on the clerk to call over the names of the camp to see if

-all were present. Joseph Hancock and Andrew Gibbons were reported to

-be absent hunting. Brothers Elijah Newman and Nathaniel Fairbanks were

-confined to their wagons but answered to their names, the remainder all

-present. President Young then addressed the meeting in substance as

-follows:</p>

-

-<p>"I remarked last Sunday that I had not felt much like preaching to the

-brethren on this mission. This morning I feel like preaching a little,

-and shall take for my text, 'That as to pursuing our journey with this

-company with the spirit they possess, I am about to revolt against it.'

-This is the text I feel like preaching on this morning, consequently

-I am in no hurry. In the first place, before we left Winter Quarters,

-it was told to the brethren and many knew it by experience, that we

-had to leave our homes, our houses, our land and our all because we

-believed in the Gospel as revealed to the Saints in these last days.

-The rise of the persecutions against the Church was in consequence of

-the doctrines of eternal truth taught by Joseph. Many knew this by

-experience. Some lost their husbands, some lost their wives, and some

-their children through persecution, and yet we have not been disposed

-to forsake the truth and turn and mingle with the gentiles, except a

-few who have turned aside and gone away from us, and we have learned

-in a measure, the difference between a professor of religion and a

-possessor of religion. Before we left Winter Quarters it was told to

-the brethren that we were going to look out a home for the Saints

-where they would be free from persecution by the gentiles, where we

-could dwell in peace and serve God according to the Holy Priesthood,

-where we could build up the kingdom so that the nations would begin to

-flock to our standard. I have said many things to the brethren about

-the strictness of their walk and conduct when we left the gentiles,

-and told them that we would have to walk upright or the law would be

-put in force, etc. Many have left and turned aside through fear, but

-no good upright, honest man will fear. The Gospel does not bind a good

-man down and deprive him of his rights and privileges. It does not

-prevent him from enjoying the fruits of his labors. It does not rob

-him of blessings. It does not stop his increase. It does not diminish

-his kingdom, but it is calculated to enlarge his kingdom as well as to

-enlarge his heart. It is calculated to give him privileges and power,

-and honor, and exaltation and everything which his heart can desire

-in righteousness all the days of his life, and then, when he gets

-exalted into the eternal world he can still turn around and say it

-hath not entered into the heart of man to conceive the glory and honor

-and blessings which God hath in store for those that love and serve

-Him. I want the brethren to understand and comprehend the principles

-of eternal life, and to watch the spirit, be wide awake and not be

-overcome by the adversary. You can see the fruits of the spirit, but

-you cannot see the spirit itself with the natural eye, you behold it

-not. You can see the result of yielding to the evil spirit and what

-it will lead you to, but you do not see the spirit itself nor its

-operations, only by the spirit that's in you. Nobody has told me what

-has been going on in the camp, but I have known it all the while. I

-have been watching its movements, its influence, its effects, and I

-know the result if it is not put a stop to. I want you to understand

-that inasmuch as we are beyond the power of the gentiles where the

-devil has tabernacles in the priests and the people, we are beyond

-their reach, we are beyond their power. We are beyond their grasp,

-and what has the devil now to work upon? Upon the spirits of men in

-this camp, and if you do not open your hearts so that the Spirit of

-God can enter your hearts and teach you the right way, I know that you

-are a ruined people and will be destroyed and that without remedy,

-and unless there is a change and a different course of conduct, a

-different spirit to what is now in this camp, I go no farther. I am in

-no hurry. Give me the man of prayers, give me the man of faith, give

-me the man of meditation, a sober-minded man, and I would far rather

-go amongst the savages with six or eight such men than to trust myself

-with the whole of this camp with the spirit they now possess. Here is

-an opportunity for every man to prove himself, to know whether he will

-pray and remember his God without being asked to do it every day; to

-know whether he will have confidence enough to ask of God that he may

-receive without my telling him to do it. If this camp was composed of

-men who had newly received the Gospel, men who had not received the

-priesthood, men who had not been through the ordinances in the temple

-and who had not had years of experience, enough to have learned the

-influence of the spirits and the difference between a good and an evil

-spirit, I should feel like preaching to them and watching over them

-and telling them all the time, day by day. But here are the Elders of

-Israel, men who have had years of experience, men who have had the

-priesthood for years--and have they got faith enough to rise up

-and stop a mean, low, groveling, covetous, quarrelsome spirit? No, they

-have not, nor would they try to stop it, unless I rise up in the power

-of God and put it down. I do not mean to bow down to the spirit that

-is in this camp, and which is rankling in the bosoms of the brethren,

-and which will lead to knock downs and perhaps to the use of the knife

-to cut each other's throats if it is not put a stop to. I do not mean

-to bow down to the spirit which causes the brethren to quarrel. When I

-wake up in the morning, the first thing I hear is some of the brethren

-jawing each other and quarreling because a horse has got loose in the

-night. I have let the brethren dance and fiddle and act the nigger

-night after night to see what they will do, and what extremes they

-would go to, if suffered to go as far as they would. I do not love to

-see it. The brethren say they want a little exercise to pass away time

-in the evenings, but if you can't tire yourselves bad enough with a

-day's journey without, dancing every night, carry your guns on your

-shoulders and walk, carry your wood to camp instead of lounging and

-lying asleep in your wagons, increasing the load until your teams are

-tired to death and ready to drop to the earth. Help your teams over

-mud holes and bad places instead of lounging in your wagons and that

-will give you exercise enough without dancing. Well, they will play

-cards, they will play checkers, they will play dominoes, and if they

-had the privilege and were where they could get whiskey, they would

-be drunk half their time, and in one week they would quarrel, get to

-high words and draw their knives to kill each other. This is what such

-a course of things would lead to. Don't you know it? Yes. Well, then,

-why don't you try to put it down? I have played cards once in my life

-since I became a Mormon to see what kind of spirit would attend it,

-and I was so well satisfied, that I would rather see in your hands the

-dirtiest thing you could find on the earth, than a pack of cards. You

-never read of gambling, playing cards, checkers, dominoes, etc., in

-the scriptures, but you do read of men praising the Lord in the dance,

-but who ever read of praising the Lord in a game at cards? If any man

-had sense enough to play a game at cards, or dance a little without

-wanting to keep it up all the time, but exercise a little and then quit

-it and think no more of it, it would do well enough, but you want to

-keep it up till midnight and every night, and all the time. You don't

-know how to control your senses. Last winter when we had our seasons of

-recreation in the council house, I went forth in the dance frequently,

-but did my mind run on it? No! To be sure, when I was dancing, my mind

-was on the dance, but the moment I stopped in the middle or the end

-of a tune, my mind was engaged in prayer and praise to my Heavenly

-Father and whatever I engage in, my mind is on it while engaged in it,

-but the moment I am done with it, my mind is drawn up to my God. The

-devils which inhabit the gentiles' priests are here. The tabernacles

-are not here, we are out of their power, we are beyond their grasp, we

-are beyond the reach of their persecutions, but the devils are here,

-and the first thing you'll know if you don't open your eyes and your

-hearts, they will cause divisions in our camp and perhaps war, as they

-did with the Lamanites as you read in the Book of Mormon. Do we suppose

-that we are going to look out a home for the Saints, a resting place, a

-place of peace where they can build up the kingdom and bid the nations

-welcome, with a low, mean, dirty, trifling, covetous, wicked spirit

-dwelling in our bosoms? It is vain! vain! Some of you are very fond of

-passing jokes, and will carry your jokes very far. But will you take

-a joke? If you do not want to take a joke, don't give a joke to your

-brethren. Joking, nonsense, profane language, trifling conversation and

-loud laughter do not belong to us. Suppose the angels were witnessing

-the hoe down the other evening, and listening to the haw haws the other

-evening, would they not be ashamed of it? I am ashamed of it. I have

-not given a joke to any man on this journey nor felt like it; neither

-have I insulted any man's feelings but I have hollowed pretty loud and

-spoken sharply to the brethren when I have seen their awkwardness at

-coming to camp. The revelations in the Bible, in the Book of Mormon,

-and Doctrine and Covenants, teach us to be sober; and let me ask you

-elders that have been through the ordinances in the temple, what were

-your covenants there? I say you should remember them. When I laugh I

-see my folly and nothingness and weakness and am ashamed of myself. I

-think meaner and worse of myself than any man can think of me; but I

-delight in God, and in His commandments and delight to meditate on Him

-and to serve Him and I mean that everything in me shall be subjected

-to Him. Now let every man repent of his weakness, of his follies, of

-his meanness, and every kind of wickedness, and stop your swearing and

-profane language, for it is in this camp and I know it, and have known

-it. I have said nothing about it, but I now tell you, if you don't stop

-it you shall be cursed by the Almighty and shall dwindle away and be

-damned. Such things shall not be suffered in this camp. You shall honor

-God, and confess His name or else you shall suffer the penalty. Most

-of this camp belong to the Church, nearly all; and I would say to you

-brethren, and to the Elders of Israel, if you are faithful, you will

-yet be sent to preach this Gospel to the nations of the earth and bid

-all welcome whether they believe the Gospel or not, and this kingdom

-will reign over many who do not belong to the Church, over thousands

-who do not believe in the Gospel. Bye and bye every knee shall bow and

-every tongue confess and acknowledge and reverence and honor the name

-of God and His priesthood and observe the laws of the kingdom whether

-they belong to the Church and obey the Gospel or not, and I mean that

-every man in this camp shall do it. That is what the scripture means by

-every knee shall bow, etc., and you cannot make anything else out of

-it. I understand there are several in this camp who do not belong to

-the Church. I am the man who will stand up for them and protect them in

-all their rights. And they shall not trample on our rights nor on the

-priesthood. They shall reverence and acknowledge the name of God and

-His priesthood, and if they set up their heads and seek to introduce

-iniquity into this camp and to trample on the priesthood, I swear to

-them, they shall never go back to tell the tale. I will leave them

-where they will be safe. If they want to retreat they can now have the

-privilege, and any man who chooses to go back rather than abide the law

-of God can now have the privilege of doing so before we go any farther.

-Here are the Elders of Israel who have the priesthood, who have got

-to preach the Gospel, who have to gather the nations of the earth,

-who have to build up the kingdom so that the nations can come to it,

-they will stop to dance as niggers. I don't mean this as debasing the

-negroes by any means; they will hoe down all, turn summersets, dance on

-their knees, and haw, haw, out loud; they will play cards, they will

-play checkers and dominoes, they will use profane language, they will

-swear! Suppose when you go to preach, the people should ask you what

-you did when you went on this mission to seek out a home for the whole

-Church, what was your course of conduct? Did you dance? Yes. Did you

-hoe down all? Yes. Did you play cards? Yes. Did you play checkers? Yes.

-Did you use profane language? Yes. Did you swear? Yes. Did you quarrel

-with each other and threaten each other? Why yes. How would you feel?

-What would you say for yourselves? Would you not want to go and hide

-up? Your mouths would be stopped and you would want to creep away in

-disgrace. I am one of the last to ask my brethren to enter into solemn

-covenants, but if they will not enter into a covenant to put away their

-iniquity and turn to the Lord and serve Him and acknowledge and honor

-His name, I want them to take their wagons and retreat back, for I

-shall go no farther under such a state of things. If we don't repent

-and quit our wickedness we will have more hinderances than we have

-had, and worse storms to encounter. I want the brethren to be ready

-for meeting tomorrow at the time appointed, instead of rambling off,

-and hiding in their wagons to play cards, etc. I think it will be good

-for us to have a fast meeting tomorrow and a prayer meeting to humble

-ourselves and turn to the Lord and he will forgive us."</p>

-

-<p>He then called upon all the High Priests to step forth in a line in

-front of the wagon and then the bishops to step in front of the High

-Priests, which being done, he counted them and found their number to

-be four bishops and fifteen high priests. He then called upon all the

-seventies to form a line in the rear of the high priests. On being

-counted, they were ascertained to number seventy-eight. Next he called

-on the elders to form a line in the rear of the wagon. They were eight

-in number. There were also eight of the quorum of the twelve. He then

-asked the brethren of the quorum of the twelve if they were willing to

-covenant, to turn to the Lord with all their hearts, to repent of all

-their follies, to cease from all their evils and serve God according

-to His laws. If they were willing, to manifest it by holding up their

-right hand. Every man held up his hand in token that he covenanted. He

-then put the same question to the high priests and bishops; next to the

-seventies, and then to the elders, and lastly to the other brethren.

-All covenanted with uplifted hands without a dissenting voice. He then

-addressed those who are not members of the Church and told them they

-should be protected in their rights and privileges while they would

-conduct themselves well and not seek to trample on the priesthood nor

-blaspheme the name of God, etc. He then referred to the conduct of

-Benjamin Rolfe's two younger brothers, in joining with the Higbees and

-John C. Bennett in sowing discord and strife among the Saints in Nauvoo

-and remarked that there will be no more Bennett scrapes suffered here.

-He spoke highly of Benjamin Rolfe's conduct, although not a member of

-the Church and also referred to the esteem in which his father and

-mother were held by the Saints generally. He then very tenderly blessed

-the brethren and prayed that God would enable them to fulfill their

-covenants and then withdrew to give opportunity for others to speak

-if they felt like it. Elder Kimball arose to say that he agreed with

-all that President Young had said. He receives it as the word of the

-Lord to him and it is the word of the Lord to this camp if they will

-receive it. He has been watching the motion of things and the conduct

-of the brethren for some time and has seen what it would lead to. He

-has said little but thought a great deal. It has made him shudder

-when he has seen the Elders of Israel descend to the lowest, dirtiest

-things imaginable, the tail end of everything, but what has passed this

-morning will make it an everlasting blessing to the brethren, if they

-will repent and be faithful and keep their covenant. He never can rest

-satisfied until his family is liberated from the gentiles and their

-company and established in a land where they can plant and reap the

-fruits of their labors, but he has never had the privilege of eating

-the fruits of his labors yet, neither has his family, but when this is

-done he can sleep in peace if necessary but not till then. If we will

-serve the Lord, remember His name to call upon Him, and be faithful, we

-shall not one of us be left under the sod, but shall be permitted to

-return and meet our families in peace and enjoy their society again;

-but if this camp continues the course of conduct it has done, the

-judgment of God will overtake us. He hopes the brethren will take heed

-to what President Young has said and let it sink deep in their hearts.</p>

-

-<p>Elder Pratt wanted to add a word to what has been said. "Much good

-advice has been given to teach us how we may spend our time profitably

-by prayer, and meditation, etc." But there is another idea which

-he wants to add. "There are many books in the camp and worlds of

-knowledge before us which we have not obtained, and if the brethren

-would devote all their leisure time to seeking after knowledge, they

-would never need to say they had nothing with which to pass away their

-time. If we could spend 23 hours out of the 24 in gaining knowledge

-and only sleep one hour of the 24 all the days of our life, there

-would still be worlds of knowledge in store for us yet to learn. He

-knows it is difficult to bring our minds to diligent and constant

-studies, in pursuit of knowledge all at once, but by steady practice

-and perseverance we shall become habituated to it, and it will become a

-pleasure to us. He would recommend to the brethren, besides prayer, and

-obedience, to seek after knowledge continually. And it will help us to

-overcome our follies and nonsense; we shall have no time for it.</p>

-

-<p>Elder Woodruff said he remembered the time when the camp went up to

-Missouri to redeem Zion, when Brother Joseph stood up on a wagon wheel

-and told the brethren that the decree had passed and could not be

-revoked, and the destroying angel would visit the camp and we should

-die like sheep with the rot. He had repeatedly warned the brethren of

-their evil conduct and what it would lead to, but they still continued

-in their course. It was not long before the destroying angel did visit

-the camp and the brethren began to fall as Brother Joseph had said. We

-buried eighteen in a short time and a more sorrowful time I never saw.

-There are nine here who were in that camp and they all recollect the

-circumstance well and will never forget it. He has been thinking while

-the President was speaking, that if he was one who had played checkers

-or cards, he would take every pack of cards and every checker board and

-burn them up so that they would no longer be in the way to tempt us.</p>

-

-<p>Colonel Markham acknowledged that he had done wrong in many things.

-He had always indulged himself, before he came into the Church, with

-everything he desired and he knows he has done wrong on this journey,

-he knows his mind has become darkened since he left Winter Quarters.

-He hopes the brethren will forgive him and he will pray to be forgiven

-and try to do better. While he was speaking he was very much affected

-indeed and wept like a child. Many of the brethren felt much affected

-and all seemed to realize for the first time, the excess to which they

-had yielded and the awful consequence of such things if persisted in.

-Many were in tears and felt humbled. President Young returned to the

-boat as Brother Markham closed his remarks and said in reply, that he

-knew the brethren would forgive him, and the Lord will forgive us all

-if we turn to Him with all our hearts and cease to do evil. The meeting

-was then dismissed, each man retiring to his wagon. And being half past

-one o'clock we again pursued our journey in peace, all reflecting on

-what has passed today, and many expressing their gratitude for what

-has transpired. It seemed as though we were just commencing on this

-important mission, and all realizing the responsibility resting upon

-us to conduct ourselves in such a manner that the journey may be an

-everlasting blessing to us, instead of an everlasting disgrace. No loud

-laughter was heard, no swearing, no quarreling, no profane language, no

-hard speeches to man or beast, and it truly seemed as though the cloud

-had burst and we had emerged into a new element, a new atmosphere, and

-a new society. We traveled six and three quarters miles about a north

-of northwest course and then arrived at the foot of the low bluffs

-which extend within about ten rods of the river, the latter forming a

-large bend northward at this point. At the foot of the bluffs the road

-was sandy and very heavy on our teams. Like all other sandy places,

-it was perfectly barren, being only a tuft of grass here and there.

-After passing over the sand we changed our course to a little north of

-west, not, however, leaving the bluffs very far. The river bends again

-to the south. We then found the ground hard and good to travel over,

-but perfectly bare of grass for upwards of a mile. At five o'clock it

-commenced raining very hard accompanied by lightning and thunder and

-strong northeast wind. It also changed considerably cooler again. At

-five thirty o'clock we formed our encampment on the edge of the higher

-bench of prairie. The feed is tolerably good on the bottom but here

-there is none at all. We have passed a small grove of fair sized trees,

-all green, growing on the islands in the river which are tolerably many

-near here, but there is no timber yet on this side of the river. The

-brethren pick up drift wood enough to do their cooking. I spent the

-evening writing in this journal till half past twelve o'clock, but felt

-quite unwell. The distance we have traveled today is eight and a half

-miles, during the week seventy-four and a half, making us 514½ miles

-from Winter Quarters. There is a creek of clear water about 200 yards

-to the south from which the camp obtains what they want.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, May 30</h3>

-

-<p>The morning fair and somewhat more pleasant, although there is yet

-appearance for more rain. I felt quite unwell through the night and

-also this morning, having severe pain. At nine o'clock most of the

-brethren retired a little south of the camp and had a prayer meeting,

-and as many as chose to, expressed their feelings. At a little before

-twelve they met again in the same spot to partake of the sacrament.

-Soon afterwards all the members of the council of the K. of G. in the

-camp, except Brother Thomas Bullock, went onto the bluffs and selecting

-a small, circular, level spot surrounded by bluffs and out of sight,

-we clothed ourselves in the priestly garments and offered up prayer to

-God for ourselves, this camp and all pertaining to it, the brethren

-in the army, our families and all the Saints, President Young being

-mouth. We all felt well and glad for this privilege. The members of the

-above council are Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, Willard Richards,

-Orson Pratt, George A. Smith, Wilford Woodruff, Amasa Lyman, Ezra T.

-Benson, Phineas H. Young, John Pack, Charles Shumway, Shadrack Roundy,

-Albert P. Rockwood, Erastus Snow, myself, Albert Carrington and Porter

-Rockwell. The two latter, having no clothing with them, stood guard

-at a little distance from us to prevent interruption. When we started

-for the bluffs, there was a heavy black thunder cloud rising from

-the southwest, and from all appearance it might rain any minute, but

-the brethren believed it would not rain till we got through and if

-it did we chose rather to take a wetting than to be disappointed of

-the privilege. It kept off remarkably till we got through and got our

-clothing on, but soon after it began to rain and after we got to camp

-it rained considerably, accompanied by strong wind. I never noticed

-the brethren so still and sober on a Sunday since we started as today.

-There is no jesting nor laughing, nor nonsense. All appear to be sober

-and feel to remember their covenant which makes things look far more

-pleasant than they have done heretofore. I spent most of the afternoon

-in Elder Kimball's wagon with Elder Kimball, President Young, Lorenzo

-and Phineas Young. Read the minutes of President Young's discourse of

-yesterday. About five o'clock President Young, Kimball, Benson and

-others walked out together to the bluffs. They invited me to go with

-them but I was so afflicted with cramps I could scarcely walk, and

-after drinking a cup of tea prepared by Ellen Sanders I went to my

-wagon and retired to bed early. The evening more pleasant with a light

-shower occasionally. Elder Kimball, President Young, and others saw the

-Black Hills in the distance from a high bluff.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, May 31</h3>

-

-<p>The morning fine but cool. I feel quite unwell yet and have been sick

-all night. At a quarter past eight we proceeded onward, found good

-level traveling, the day cool and pleasant. We soon struck a wagon

-trail which evidently leads direct to Fort Laramie. At four miles,

-passed some high sandy bluffs. Traveled till after twelve and then

-turned off a little to the southwest and at half past twelve o'clock

-halted for noon at the edge of lower land where there is some short

-green grass for our teams. The land we have traveled over this morning

-is naked and barren, course west of northwest, distance nine and a

-half miles. A high wind from northwest. Latitude 42° 04' 30". Started

-again at 3:00 p.m., weather warm and wind ceased. At 6:45 p.m. formed

-our encampment on the east bank of a shoal stream about ten feet wide,

-having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter miles, and during

-the day sixteen and three quarters. Our course this afternoon a little

-north of west. About four miles back, passed some timber on this side

-of the river which is the first since the 10th inst, being a distance

-of 215 miles without wood for fire, except driftwood, and much of the

-time nothing but buffalo chips. The last four or five miles have been

-sandy, the ground uneven and very heavy on our teams. The country looks

-perfectly barren; in some places there is nothing but a few weeds and

-garlick. Some of the brethren picked considerable of the latter to eat.

-The feed is very poor indeed, but a little better than four miles back.

-John S. Higbee has killed a deer and some of the brethren wounded two

-others. This deer which Brother Higbee killed is of the long tailed

-species, having a tail more than a half a yard long, and is the first

-one I ever saw of the kind. A while after we camped, President Young

-and Kimball went to the bluffs and again saw the Black Hills in the

-distance. They bowed before the Lord and offered up their prayers

-together.</p>

-

-<p>The month of May has passed over and we have been permitted to proceed

-so far on our journey, being 531¼ miles from our families in Winter

-Quarters, with the camp generally enjoying good health and good

-spirits, and although some things have passed which have merited

-chastisement, we have the privilege at the closing of the month of

-seeing a better feeling, a more noble spirit, and a more general desire

-to do right than we have before witnessed. I feel to humble myself and

-give God thanks for his continued mercies to me and my brethren and

-may His spirit fill our hearts and may His angels administer comfort,

-health, peace and prosperity to all our families and all the Saints

-henceforth and forever. Amen.</p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-12>June 1847</h2>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, June 1</h3>

-

-<p>The morning very fine, warm and pleasant. All is still and quiet as a

-summer's morning, the camp well and in good spirits and a feeling of

-peace, union and brotherly love seems to dwell in every breast. My mind

-revolves back upon by-gone days and then to the present, and I truly

-feel thankful to my God for His mercies to me and for the privilege

-I now daily enjoy. The idea of dwelling with my family in a land of

-peace, in the midst of the Saints of God is better felt than described,

-but the mild, still scenery of this morning puts me in mind of it.

-At nine o'clock we pursued our journey, the stream we passed over is

-called by Grosclaude: "The Raw Hide." Elder Kimball let me have his

-horse to ride. I went in company with George A. Smith who was on foot

-carrying his gun in fulfillment of President Young's prophecy at the

-Pawnee Mission station. The wagons went on till half past eleven and

-then halted for noon. We were about a mile ahead of them. The distance

-they traveled was four and a half miles. At half past one, started

-out again and traveled till a little after four o'clock and saw Fort

-Laramie about four miles to the southwest. Elder Kimball and President

-Young then came up to where Brother Woodruff and I were looking out

-for feed and we started on, President Young having stopped the wagons,

-and went to the ford opposite to the fort. It was finally concluded to

-form our encampment here on the banks of the river. Several men soon

-came down from the fort which is about two miles from here and made

-themselves known as a part of the Mississippi company from Pueblo. They

-have been here two weeks. It caused us much joy to meet with brethren

-in this wild region of country and also because we should have some

-news from the brethren in the army. Luke Johnson being up here with

-the boat and several others coming up, they got the boat into the

-river to go over and see the brethren. And Luke Johnson, John Brown,

-Joseph Mathews and Porter Rockwell started over and about the same

-time, Presidents Young and Kimball started back to bring the camp up.

-When the brethren got over the river Brother Brown met several whom he

-knew and soon returned bringing Brother Crow and his son-in-law over

-to this side. The brethren seemed pleased to meet us. Brother Crow

-reports deaths in the Pueblo detachment since Brothers Tippets and

-Woolsey left, viz. Melcher Oyler, Arnold Stevens. They also state that

-Soloman Tindall was on the point of death. The other portion of the

-battalion they had not heard from. The Pueblo brethren are expected to

-receive their pay and start for this point, at latest by this date,

-and will probably be here in about two weeks. They also recorded that

-three traders from the mountains arrived here six days ago, having

-come from Sweet Water in six days and nights. They traveled day and

-night with horses and mules to prevent their starving to death as there

-is no feed up there. Two of their oxen had died already, etc. The

-snow was two feet deep at Sweet Water when they left, so that we are

-evidently plenty soon enough for feed. At 5:45 the wagons arrived and

-formed encampment on the banks of the river in the form of a V, having

-traveled this afternoon, seven and a half miles and during the day,

-twelve, making a total from Winter Quarters to Fort Laramie 543¼ miles

-and we have traveled it in seven weeks lacking a half a day, but we

-have traveled but a few miles on Sundays. We have arrived so far on our

-journey without accident except the loss of two horses by Indians and

-two killed. We have been prosperous on our journey, the camp are all in

-better health than when we left Winter Quarters and we see daily that

-the Lord blesses us and directs the movements of this camp as seemeth

-Him good and as is for our good and prosperity. The road today has been

-mostly sandy and heavy on teams with but little feed in any place. The

-country begins to have a more hilly and mountainous appearance. Some

-of the Black Hills show very plain from here. The timber is mostly ash

-and cottonwood on the low bottoms near the river. There is some cedar

-on the bluffs. In one of the large ash trees in the middle of the camp

-is an Indian babe or papoose. It cannot be said to be buried, but

-deposited, being first wrapped with a skin and then tied between two

-of the highest limbs of the tree. This is said to be the way they bury

-their dead. The bark is all peeled off the tree below, I suppose to

-prevent the wolves from getting up.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, June 2</h3>

-

-<p>The morning pleasant. About nine o'clock started over the river in

-company with the Twelve and others to view the fort and also learn

-something in regard to our journey, etc. Elder Pratt measured the

-distance across the river at this spot and found it to be 108 yards.

-The water is deep in the channel and the current runs about four miles

-an hour. After crossing we went up to the remains of an old fort called

-Fort Platte which is near the banks of the river, the outside walls

-still standing, but the inside is in ruins, having been burned up.

-The walls are built of adobes or Spanish brick, being large pieces

-of tempered clay dried in the sun and apparently laid one on another

-without mortar or cement. The dimensions of this fort outside are 144

-feet east to west, and from north to south 103 feet. There is a large

-door fronting to the south which has led to the dwellings which have

-been fourteen in number, built in the form of a parallelogram, leaving

-a large space in the center. The space occupied by the dwelling is not

-quite half of the whole fort. Fronting to the east is another large

-door which opens upon a large open space 98¾ feet by 47 feet where it

-is supposed they used to keep horses, etc. At the northwest corner is

-a tower projecting out from the line of the walls six feet each way,

-or, in other words it is twelve feet square with port holes for cannon.

-At the northeast corner has been another projection extending eastward

-29½ feet and is 19½ feet wide. The walls are 11 feet high and 30

-inches thick. We took the dimensions of this with a tape line and then

-proceeded to Fort Laramie about two miles farther west. This latter

-fort was first built of wood about thirteen years since, and named

-Fort William, but being destroyed was afterwards built seven years

-ago with adobes and named John. It stands on the bank of the Laramie

-fork. Laramie fork is a stream forty-one yards wide, a very swift

-current, but not deep. We tarried a little while with the Mississippi

-brethren who have camped close by the fort and then went inside. We

-were politely welcomed by Mr. Bordeau who appears to be the principal

-officer. He conducted us up a flight of stairs into a comfortable room

-and being furnished with seats, we rested ourselves. President Young

-and others entered into conversation with Mr. Bordeau. From him we

-learned that we cannot travel over four miles farther on the north

-side the Platte before we come to bluffs which cannot be crossed with

-loaded wagons. The road is better on this side than the one we have

-traveled, it being hard and not sandy. Feed scarce mostly lying in

-little patches near the river. They send their furs to Fort Pierre on

-the Missouri river a distance of 400 miles by land and receive all

-their stores and provisions back by the same teams, except their meat

-which they kill, there being buffalo within two days' drive. They

-have tried making a garden and planting corn which did well enough

-the first year, but afterwards they could raise nothing for want of

-rain. They have had no rain for two years until a few days ago. They

-have got a flat boat which will carry two wagons easily which we can

-have for fifteen dollars or he will ferry us over for $18.00 or 25c a

-wagon. From the door of this room one can see the same black hill seen

-on Sunday evening and which is Laramie Peak. We could see the snow

-lying on it very plainly. We can also see several ranges of high hills

-in the distance which are no doubt parts of the Black Hills. We went

-across the square to the trading house which lies on the north side

-of the western entrance. The trader opened his store and President

-Young entered into conversation with him. They trade solely with the

-Sioux. The Crows come here for nothing but to steal. A few weeks ago

-a party came down and stole twenty-five horses, all that they had at

-the fort, although they were within 300 yards of the fort at the time

-and a guard around them. The Sioux will not steal on their own land.

-A pair of moccasins are worth a dollar, a lariat a dollar, a pound of

-tobacco a dollar and a half, and a gallon of whiskey $32.00. They have

-no sugar, coffee or spices as their spring stores have not yet arrived.

-They have lately sent to Fort Pierre, 600 bales of robes with ten robes

-in each bale. Their wagons have been gone forty-five days, etc. The

-blacksmith shop lies on the south side of the western entrance. There

-are dwellings inside the fort beside that of Mr. Bordeau's. The south

-end is divided off and occupied for stables, etc. There are many souls

-at this fort, mostly French, half-breeds, and a few Sioux Indians.

-Elder Pratt measured the river and found it forty-one yards. He also

-took the latitude which was 42° 12' 13". Brother Bullock told me that

-several of the brethren had picked up a number of beads off the ant

-hills. Curiosity led me to go and examine and I found it even so. It

-appears that the ants gather all the small pebbles they can carry and

-build them over their hills to prevent the strong winds from blowing

-them away, and amongst the rest, they picked up beads which have been

-lost off the Indians' moccasins and robes, etc. I picked up quite a

-number. Brother Bullock and I took the dimensions of the fort which

-will be given in another place. We then got on board the boat and had

-a pleasant ride about three miles down the Laramie fork to its mouth,

-the current being very swift. At the mouth, the brethren mostly got on

-shore and towed the boat up to camp. After dinner I went over again in

-the cutter which was going to fish with the seine in the Laramie fork.

-They caught sixty or seventy small fish, salmon, suckers, etc. About

-six o'clock we returned to camp. The Twelve have decided that Amasa

-Lyman shall go with Brothers Woolsey, Tippets and Stevens to Pueblo.

-They start tomorrow. Longitude at Fort Laramie 104° 11' 53". I have

-seen three birds here which very much resemble the English magpie in

-size, shape and color, in fact I know of no difference between the two.

-We passed a number of currant bushes about four miles back, quite thick

-with young, green currants. On the morning of the 4th of June, I put

-up a guide board on the north side of the river at the ferry with the

-following inscription on it, viz. Winter Quarters 543¼ miles, junction

-of the forks 227½ miles. Ash Hollow 142¼ miles, Chimney Rock 70¼ miles,

-Scott's Bluffs 50½ miles. Wm. Clayton, June 4, 1847. Elder Pratt took

-the altitude of Fort Laramie and found it to be 4,090 feet above the

-level of the sea. Fremont makes 4,470, differing 380 feet.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, June 3</h3>

-

-<p>The morning cold with strong southeast wind. The first division

-commenced ferrying over the river at five o'clock and took a wagon over

-every fifteen minutes. After breakfast I went over and wrote a letter

-for Elder Kimball to James Brown at Pueblo, then walked up to a high

-bluff on the northwest to view the country, but not being able to see

-far from it, I went to another over a mile farther northwest. Although

-this last was very high I could see nothing but a succession of high

-ranges of bluffs as far as I could see, except the narrow space through

-which the river winds its course. Seeing some heavy thunder clouds

-rising very rapidly from the northwest I returned to camp and arrived

-just before the rain commenced. Elders A. Lyman, Thomas Woolsey, John

-H. Tippets and Roswell Stevens started at 11:15 on horses and mules for

-Pueblo. President Young, Kimball, Richards and Pratt accompanied them

-to the Laramie fork and then held a council, kneeled down and dedicated

-them to God and blessed them. The four then forded the river and went

-on their journey, the others returned to camp. At half past 1:00 p.m.

-it commenced raining heavily accompanied by hail, lightning and very

-loud thunder, which lasted till 3:30 p.m. During the storm, the horses

-were mostly secured in the old fort. The ferrying ceased till it was

-fair again, and about five o'clock the first division were all over.

-The boat was then manned by the second division, John S. Higbee,

-captain. They averaged a wagon across in eleven minutes and one in ten

-minutes and one in ten minutes and twenty seconds. The quickest trip

-made by the first division was thirteen minutes. About seven o'clock

-it commenced raining again from the southeast and rained heavily,

-consequently the brethren quit ferrying, leaving three companies of

-about fifteen wagons on the other side. All the wagons would have been

-taken over today if it had not been stormy.</p>

-

-<p>There is a report come in that there are 2,000 wagons on the road to

-Oregon, but a little distance behind, but we are satisfied the report

-is exaggerated. There are eighteen wagons camped about three miles

-below and one of the men who has come to the fort says that they have

-counted over 500 wagons. They have lost four horses by the Indians.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, June 4</h3>

-

-<p>Morning very fine. Laramie peak shows very plain. The brethren

-commenced ferrying at 4:40 a.m., and at eight o'clock the last wagon

-was over. I walked up to a high bluff with Carlos Murray and picked up

-some stalactites clear as crystal supposed to be isinglass. The bluff

-is very high and almost perpendicular and it is dangerous to get to the

-crystals.</p>

-

-<p>At nine o'clock President Young, Kimball, W. Richards, A. P.

-Rockwood and T. Bullock walked up to Fort Laramie and returned soon

-after eleven o'clock. They have learned very favorable reports about

-Bear River Valley, being well timbered, plenty of good grass, light

-winters, little snow and abundance of fish, especially spotted trout,

-in the streams. About half past eleven o'clock Brother Crow's company

-came down and joined in with the second division and at twelve we

-started on our journey again, following the Oregon road. We traveled

-three miles and at 20 minutes past 1:00, halted near some good grass to

-let our teams feed. The weather is very warm though many light clouds

-are flying. The bluffs come near the river and are very high, steep,

-and look like sand. During the halt I went up on a very high bluff

-near by with my glass. I found it very difficult of ascent. From the

-top I could see Laramie peak very plainly and also some hills a long

-way off to the northwest. The country looks very hilly as far as can

-be seen and the snow on the peak shows quite plain. At half past two

-we continued our journey and found the road sandy and very uneven. At

-the distance of seven and three quarters miles from Fort Laramie we

-descended a very steep pitch or hill. All the wagons had to be locked

-and we were some time getting down. We went on half a mile farther and

-formed our encampment in a circle at half past five, having traveled

-eight and a quarter miles today. At half past five we had a shower

-accompanied by a little lightning and heavy thunder. I will now give

-the list of names of Brother Crow's company who have joined the camp

-today to go with this pioneer camp. They are as follows:</p>

-

-<p>Robert Crow, Elizabeth Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, Elizabeth Jane Crow,

-John McHenry Crow, Walter H. Crow, Geo. W. Therlkill, Matilla Jane

-Therlkill, Milton Howard Therlkill, James William Therlkill, William

-Parker Crow, Isa Vinda Exene Crow, Ira Minda Almarene Crow, Archibald

-Little, James Chesney and Lewis B. Myers, seventeen in number, making

-the total number of souls in this pioneer camp, after deducting four

-gone to Pueblo, 161.</p>

-

-<p>Lewis B. Myers is represented as knowing the country to the mountains,

-having traveled it, and I am told that he came as a guide to Brother

-Crow. They have five wagons, one cart, eleven horses, twenty-four oxen,

-twenty-two cows, three bulls and seven calves.</p>

-

-<p>Inasmuch as there have been some changes in horses and mules, I will

-endeavor to state them and give the number we started with from Fort

-Laramie. Two horses killed by accident. Two horses stolen by the

-Pawnees at Gravel creek; one mule traded for a pony by Brother Markham;

-three horses and one mule gone with the brethren to Pueblo; one horse

-traded by O. P. Rockwell for three cows and two calves; one horse

-traded by John Pack for three buffalo robes; one horse traded by T.

-Brown for a pony at Laramie; one pony traded by J. S. Higbee to

-the Sioux for a pony. These changes with the addition made by Brother

-Crow's company make the number as follows: horses 95, mules 51, head of

-oxen 100, cows 41, bulls 3, calves 7, dogs and chickens, and 77 wagons

-and 1 cart.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, June 5</h3>

-

-<p>The morning pleasant though somewhat cloudy. Elder Kimball gave George

-Billings a lecture about abusing his team, kicking them, etc. He gave

-George some very good advice. The horn sounded early to start but we

-were detained till half past eight on account of several oxen being

-missing. About that time they were found and we pursued our journey.

-After traveling a little over four miles we ascended a steep bluff.

-The road runs on the top of it a little distance in a very crooked

-direction, the surface in some places being hard, uneven rock, which

-shakes and jars the wagons very much. In one place there is a little

-descent and at the bottom a very sharp turn in the road over rough

-rock. Here Brother Crow's cart turned over. However, it was soon

-righted and no injury done to anything. At the west foot is a steep,

-sandy descent but not difficult. The bluff is a half a mile across.

-About a half a mile from the west foot we turned from the river nearly

-a west course and crossed a low gravelly channel where it appears the

-river has run sometime and perhaps does now in high water.</p>

-

-<p>The road after this is considerably crooked and uneven. About a mile

-and a quarter farther we descended again on the same gravelly channel

-and traveled up it a piece and at 11:35 halted for noon opposite a

-very large spring noticed by Fremont. The water of this spring is

-very clear and soft, but considerably warmer than the river water. We

-have traveled this morning six and a half miles. Just as we halted,

-two men came down from the other road on mules to water. They are in

-company with eleven wagons and bound for west of the mountains. They

-say the other road from Laramie is only ten miles to the spring while

-our road has been 14¾ miles. About a half an hour after we stopped, we

-had a nice shower. The 1st division halted about a quarter of a mile

-back from here. Latitude at the warm springs 42° 15' 6". While we were

-halting, the company above referred to passed down the bluffs and went

-ahead of us. They have got many cows, etc., with them. At 1:40 p.m.

-we resumed our journey. After traveling a mile we turned in a narrow

-pass to the northwest between two high bluffs and traveled a quarter of

-a mile farther, then came to where the road rises a very high, steep

-bluff. At the foot is a short sudden pitch and then a rugged ascent

-for a quarter of a mile. The bluff is rocky and many large cobble

-stones lay in the road which made it hard on teams. Appleton Harmon

-took one of his yoke of cattle and assisted George Billings to the top

-and Brother Johnson took Appleton's steers and put them forward of his

-and brought up his wagon. Appleton and Johnson then took the three

-yoke of oxen and fetched up Appleton's wagon which threw us nearly in

-the rear of all the wagons, none of the rest doubling teams. After

-arriving on the top the road was good but still rising for a quarter of

-a mile farther. We traveled on this high land five and a quarter miles

-which was very good traveling although it was considerably rolling.

-Four and a half miles from the top of the last mentioned bluff, we

-passed a large lone rock, standing far away from any other. At five

-and a quarter miles we descended again from the bluff, the descent

-being steep and lengthy but sandy and good to travel. At the foot of

-the bluff we again crossed the gravelly channel and traveled on and

-alongside about a mile, then descended a little to the bottom prairie

-again. At 6:30 we formed our encampment on the west bank of a small

-stream and near a very good spring of cold water, having traveled this

-afternoon 10½ miles and during the day seventeen.</p>

-

-<p>I have put up two guide boards today. One at 10 and the other at 20

-miles from Fort John or Laramie, but the former name is on the guide

-boards. The bluffs we have passed today are mostly very high, rocky and

-broken, with pine growing on most or nearly all of them. We have pretty

-good feed here and plenty of wood and good water. The gentile camp is a

-little east of us. They say that there were two more companies arrived

-at Fort Laramie this morning as they left, and three other companies

-within twenty miles of Laramie. They left this morning. They left

-Independence on the 22nd of April. They are expecting the mail soon

-on mules, but they anticipate keeping ahead of all the companies. We

-find the road very crooked, but not bad traveling. About dark it rained

-some, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The camp was notified that

-tomorrow will be a day for fasting and prayer as last Sunday.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, June 6</h3>

-

-<p>Morning cloudy, cool, and like for rain. At eight o'clock the eleven

-wagons passed us again. At nine the brethren assembled for prayer

-meeting a little from the camp, but many kept about their wagons, some

-washing and some at other things. At eleven o'clock, four Missourians

-came up mounted, being part of a company a little behind. Some of

-these are recognized by the brethren and they seem a little afraid and

-not fond of our company. They say the old settlers have all fled from

-Shariton, Missouri, except two tavern keepers, and I feel to wish that

-their fears may follow them even to Oregon. At half past eleven just

-as the brethren again assembled for meeting it commenced raining hard,

-accompanied by lightning and heavy thunder which caused the meeting to

-break up abruptly. During the storm, the Missouri company passed by us,

-having nineteen wagons and two carriages. Most of their wagons have

-five yoke of cattle to each, and few less than four. They have many

-cows, horses and young cattle with them. They have a guide with them

-who lives on the St. Mary's River at the Columbia. He says we shall

-find water again about six miles from here and then no more for fifteen

-miles farther. It was then considered wise to move on this afternoon as

-we cannot well reach the second watering place in one day. Soon after

-twelve o'clock the weather cleared off, the sun shone and looks like

-for being fine. The wind blows strong from the west. At half past 2:00

-p.m. the camp began to move forward. About three quarters of a mile

-we crossed the same small stream again, and two miles further arrived

-at a sudden bend in the road to the south about two hundred yards and

-then as sudden to the north the same distance occasioned by the water

-having washed a deep gulf where the road ought to run. A mile beyond

-this the wagons came to a halt in a body of timber and brushwood at

-four o'clock, and halted while the brethren on horseback, viz. Elder

-Young, Kimball and Woodruff, went ahead to look for a camping ground.

-They returned at 4:40 and the camp proceeded on. Having proceeded a

-quarter of a mile we passed the camp of the nineteen wagons close by

-the timber a little south of the road. Several of the men came to look

-at the roadometer, having heard from some of the brethren that we had

-one. They expressed a wish to each other to see inside and looked upon

-it as a curiosity. I paid no attention to them inasmuch as they did

-not address themselves to me. At a quarter past 5:00 p.m. we formed

-our encampment in an oblong circle, at the foot of a low bluff on the

-west and close by water, having traveled five miles. The feed here is

-very good and plentiful. Wind strong from the west. Road very crooked,

-mostly a southwest and west course. There is plenty of timber all along

-and the soil looks good on the low lands. One of the men in the company

-of the nineteen wagons told G. A. Smith that he had broken his

-carriage spring and seemed much troubled to know what to do to get

-along. He asked George if there was any man in our company who could

-fix it. George told him there was. After we were camped, Burr Frost set

-up his forge and welded the spring ready to put on before dark.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, June 7</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine. Elder Pratt gave me some instructions on the use of the

-sextant and showed me how to take an observation. He has promised to

-teach me to take observations and calculate latitude and longitude

-and I intend to improve the opportunity. At 6:30 the Missouri company

-passed through again. And at ten minutes past seven we commenced our

-onward course. Dr. Richards left a letter in a guide board 30¼ miles

-to Fort John. I walked about five miles mostly in company with Elder

-Pratt conversing on astronomy and philosophical subjects. Elder Kimball

-then let me have his horse to ride. We traveled till eleven o'clock

-and then halted to feed on the west bank of a small stream and spring

-of clear water, having traveled 7¾ miles, mostly a north of northwest

-course. The road more even and good traveling. Soon after we halted,

-another company of Missourians passed us, having thirteen wagons and

-mostly four yoke of oxen to each. They say they are from Andrew County,

-Missouri. At 12:35 we moved forward. At a quarter of a mile began to

-ascend a bluff which was a quarter of a mile from the bottom to the

-top, the ascent gradual and tolerably steep. From the top of this hill

-we had as pleasant a view of the surrounding country as I have ever

-witnessed. Laramie peak appears only a few miles to the southwest, and

-from that around to the west, north, and northeast, a very extensive

-view of a beautiful country for many miles, indeed, as far as the

-eye could survey. From a fair view of the peak I am satisfied that

-the Black Hills, of which this is a prominent part, are so named

-from the vast forests of pine trees covering their surface and being

-of a dark green color within a few miles of them. The pine grows in

-the most rocky places and abounds on the highest hills, while on the

-lower bluffs it is sparsely scattered and in the bottom land, which

-looks rich and good, there are none. We have passed many noble trees

-and there is no lack of good pine timber in this region. The peak is

-very high, and very broken and craggy, the snow still lying on its

-summit and plainly visible with the naked eye. The ridge over which

-we passed was a half a mile over from the southeast to the northwest

-foot. At that distance we began to descend and had to lock the wagons

-in several places. The descent was rendered unpleasant by the many

-large cobble stones scattered in the road. Many of the brethren threw

-them out of the road as we went along and the road is much improved.

-They have also dug down some places and leveled others, which will

-make the road much better for other companies. At half past three we

-arrived at Horse Creek and formed our encampment on the bottom land

-near the timber or rather in the midst of a grove of ash, cottonwood,

-etc., having traveled five and a quarter miles this afternoon over

-crooked road and during the day, thirteen miles. On this camp ground

-is one of the clearest and largest springs of water I have seen for a

-long time. Elder Kimball having discovered it, he calls it his spring

-or Heber's spring. The creek is also clear and said to have trout in

-it. The feed is much better and more plentiful than we have ever met

-with on this journey. There is abundance of wild mint and sage growing

-here; the mint seems to perfume the air. The sage grows in abundance on

-all this sandy land. There are also many wild currant bushes in full

-bloom and prickley pears all along the road. The other companies were

-all within two miles when we arrived here, but mostly going on a few

-miles farther. A little before we stopped, we had a thunder storm which

-lasted upwards of an hour. During the latter part of it, it rained very

-heavily accompanied by hail and thunder and lightning. Our hunters have

-killed a long-tailed deer and an antelope, which were distributed as

-usual. Brother Crow's hunter also killed a deer, but they are unwilling

-to conform to the rules of the camp in dividing and reserve it all

-to themselves. Brother Crow observed that if they got more than they

-could use they would be willing to let the camp have some. Some of the

-other companies killed an antelope, took off the quarters and left the

-balance on the ground. Brother Pack picked it up and brought it along.

-After we stopped Brother Crow came near meeting with an accident while

-endeavoring to yoke up a pair of wild steers. It took a number of

-men to hold them, having lariats on their saddle-horns. They got the

-lariats entangled round their legs and Brother Crow also, throwing one

-of the steers down and he fast with it. They cut the rope and he was

-liberated without injury. Myers, the hunter, roasts the young antlers

-of the deer and eats them. In regard to Brother Crow's meat, etc., I

-afterwards learned that the whole family had to depend on Myers for

-what they eat, having no bread stuff, nor anything only what he kills,

-and the little flour and meal paid to him for a part of the ferryage,

-he having a small claim on Bordeau. After supper, walked out with Elder

-Kimball and was joined by George A. Smith. Brother Smith told me of a

-good opportunity of sending a letter to my family by some traders who

-are expected down every day and I feel to improve the opportunity. We

-had a very strong wind at night, so much that I could not write.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, June 8</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine though cool. At half past seven we proceeded on our

-journey crossing the Horseshoe creek, which is about a rod wide. We

-traveled two and a quarter miles, winding around the foot of high

-bluffs and then began to ascend them. We found this ascent the worst

-we have ever had, being three quarters of a mile up, and having in

-that distance seven very steep rises. On most of them the teams had to

-double. We saw a buffalo about a half a mile to the south which is the

-first we have seen since about the 21st of May. Two and a half miles

-from the east foot of the last bluff we passed over a small creek,

-nearly dry, and then ascended another high bluff but not nearly so

-bad a rise as the other one. At 11:45 we halted for noon near a very

-small creek with but little water in it, having traveled six and three

-quarters miles over hills and valleys, the roads being very crooked.

-About half an hour before we halted, Harriet Crow got run over with one

-of their wagons. The teams had stopped near the descent from the bluffs

-and she stepped on the wagon tongue to get a drink. The cattle started

-suddenly, threw her under the wheel which passed over her leg below the

-knee and downwards, passing over her foot above the toes. She screamed

-and appeared in great agony. We thought her leg was broken, but were

-soon satisfied to the contrary. Her foot was badly bruised but I think

-there was nothing broken. One of the women washed it with camphor. She

-was then put into a wagon and we proceeded on. Latitude 42° 29' 58".</p>

-

-<p>At 1:40 we proceeded. After traveling a little over a mile and a

-half we passed another small creek, and again ascended a high bluff.

-We found this ridge more uneven than the other, it being a perfect

-succession of hills and hollows for five miles. The road was good

-and hard. While traveling on the top the wind blew very strong from

-the west and it was so cold that we suffered some. The road over was

-indeed very crooked but mostly bending to the north. We could see a

-long distance from the top. The country to the north looks more even

-but south and southwest very hilly and broken. At five miles we began

-to descend gradually, and while watching the roadometer I discovered

-it did not work right which made me pay more attention to it. At ten

-minutes past six we crossed a stream about thirty feet wide and nearly

-two feet deep with a very swift current. It is named on Fremont's map

-as La Bonte river. We formed our encampment on the west bank in the

-timber having traveled this afternoon 8¾ miles and during the day 15½.

-The evening is very cold and much appearance of rain. Porter Rockwell

-has killed a deer and someone else an antelope. Porter says he has been

-on the Platte which is about four miles from here following the La

-Bonte. Soon after we stopped, the men came into camp who were expected

-to carry a letter. They are camped about a mile west of us. I finished

-my letter to my family by candle light, as it is contemplated to start

-in the morning before breakfast and go a few miles to better feed.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, June 9</h3>

-

-<p>Arose at 4:20 and at 5:15 a.m. we moved onward, keeping near the La

-Bonte. At 5:45 halted for breakfast beside the traders' camp, having

-come a mile and a quarter. I sent my letter to them by Aaron Farr, a

-number of the brethren also sending letters. While we halted I got

-the roadometer fixed again and also put up a guide board marked "To

-Fort John 60 miles." These traders or mountaineers said they had left

-a kind of ferry made of three buffalo skins hung in a tree on the

-Platte and wanted Brother Crow's company to have it. It was decided

-to send a company ahead to overreach the Missouri companies and get

-the ferry before they could arrive, and also build a raft for us to

-cross on, kill game, etc. The men say it is about seventy miles to

-where we cross the river. Nineteen wagons were sent ahead and about

-forty men to attend to this business. All of Brother Crow's company

-went, Aaron Farr, J. Redding, the cutter, etc., being five wagons from

-the 1st division and fourteen from the 2nd. They started about half

-an hour before we started. We proceeded at 7:45 and immediately after

-starting had to cross a very steep gulf, being difficult for teams to

-get up, though it was not long. Soon after this, four men passed us

-with pack horses and mules. They say they are from Pueblo and going

-to Green River; they told others they were from Santa Fe and going to

-San Francisco. We found the road very hilly and uneven and crooked as

-yesterday. At three and three quarters miles passed over a branch of

-the La Bonte, a stream about ten feet wide but not deep. The descent

-and ascent being very steep, most of the teams required assistance to

-get up. For half a mile before we crossed this stream and three and a

-half miles after, our road lay over a kind of red earth or sand about

-the color of red precipitate. Most of the rocks and bluffs are of the

-same red color, only a deeper red. It affected my eyes much from its

-brightness and strange appearance. About one and a quarter miles west

-of the creek President Young and Kimball saw a large toad which had

-horns on its head and a tail. It did not jump like a toad but crawled

-like a mouse. This was seen near a large pile of rock or rather a hill.

-At 12:40 we halted for noon having come ten miles since breakfast.

-There is little water here for the teams. The day fine and nice west

-breeze. The road is very crooked, hilly, and mostly rocky, many large

-cobble stones covering the bluffs, the land barren and little grass.

-The ground here is covered with large crickets which are so numerous,

-to walk without stepping on them is almost impossible.</p>

-

-<p>At half past two o'clock we were on the move again. I put up another

-guide board a little east of the creek: "70 miles." We found the road

-much better this afternoon, not being so uneven, and tolerably straight

-excepting a bluff to climb a mile from the creek. At the foot of this

-bluff I saw a toad with a tail like a lizard, about three inches long.

-It had no horns but there was the appearance of horns just coming on

-each side of the head. It resembles a lizard in color, tail, and motion

-when running swiftly through the grass. Its hide appeared hard and on

-its sides appeared numerous little sharp pointed fins or pricks. In

-other respects it resembled any common toad. At a quarter past one we

-formed our encampment on the east banks of a stream about a rod wide,

-two feet deep and swift current. It is named the A La Pierre. We have

-traveled eight miles this afternoon and during the day 19¼. We have a

-good place for feed but the higher land is barren, abounding only in

-wild sage. There are still some high bluffs around but the country west

-appears much more level. The evening fine but cool. After traveling six

-and a quarter miles from noon halt, passed a small creek, and again

-three quarters of a mile farther passed the same creek. Sterling Driggs

-killed an antelope and a deer.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, June 10</h3>

-

-<p>The morning calm and very pleasant. There is wild mint growing on the

-bank of this stream in great plenty and abundance of wild sage on all

-the higher land. The mint smells natural, but the sage smells strong

-of turpentine and a little like camphor. Started at half past seven

-and found good roads. At four and a half miles passed over a small

-creek about three feet wide but not much water, being only a few inches

-deep. A mile farther passed another creek about five feet wide, clear

-water and plentiful. At 11:20 we halted on the east bank of a stream

-about thirty feet wide and tolerably deep with a rapid current, having

-come eight and three quarters miles. We have had several long, steep

-bluffs to ascend and descend and two places at the creeks where it was

-hard for the teams to get up without help. We saw one of the Missouri

-companies a few miles ahead of us. Edmund Elsworth killed an antelope.

-There is good feed here and plentiful. Our road has been crooked mostly

-winding northward. The creek on which we camped last night is named

-A La Pierre and about a mile from where the road crosses, it runs

-through a tunnel from ten to twenty rods under the high rocky bluffs.

-The tunnel is high enough for a man to stand upright in it, and when

-standing at the entrance one can see the light through on the other

-side. It seems as though this tunnel has been formed by some strange

-feat of nature. Several of the brethren went to see it. Lewis Barney

-and another brother each killed an antelope which were brought into

-camp during the halt and divided. The brethren carried the two last

-about five miles on their shoulders. We have learned today from one

-of the travelers that there is one man living and making a farm in

-the Bear River valley. At a quarter to 2:00 we continued our journey.

-Found the road somewhat more even and good traveling. I put a guide

-board this morning at 80 miles from Fort John, and this afternoon after

-traveling three and a quarter miles from noon halt I put up another

-mark at 90 miles. Just as I finished setting it, I looked forward and

-saw the Platte river again. After descending a half a mile we were on

-its banks, being 77 miles since we left it on Saturday last, after

-having wound around among the hills and bluffs all the way. When we

-arrived near the river the road was more level but sandy and harder

-on our teams. There are also some low places where the water stands,

-making it soft, but scarcely any feed for teams since we left the creek

-at noon. At a quarter to six we passed another stream about thirty feet

-wide and two feet deep, swift current and clear water. Name is Deer

-Creek. There is plenty of timber on its banks and abundance of good,

-rich grass for our teams. We formed our encampment on the west bank

-in a grove of large timber. About a mile back we passed a sick horse

-supposed to be left by some of the companies ahead. Brother Markham

-bled it in its mouth, but could not get it along and had to leave it.

-The distance we have traveled this afternoon was nine miles and during

-the day 17¾ miles, the last five miles being nearly a west course. Soon

-after we camped, Horace Whitney went to fishing in this stream. We were

-soon satisfied that there are plenty of fish in it. I got a line and

-went to fishing also and in a few minutes caught two which would weigh

-a half a pound each. We then went a piece below the ford and by fishing

-till a little after dark I caught twenty-four nice fish which would

-average over a half a pound each, and some of them would weigh over a

-pound each. The ones I caught were of a very bright color and very much

-resembled the herring, but much larger. Horace caught a cat fish and

-two suckers. A number of brethren also caught more and some less. There

-is abundance of fish in this stream and we might have caught enough

-for all the camp with the sein but it is ahead with those who are gone

-to build a raft. The Twelve and some others walked out together to the

-river about a quarter of a mile up the stream. Some of the brethren

-discovered a rich bed of stone coal where any quantity might easily be

-dug, and it is said to look good and is a fine quality. The land here

-on the bottom is rich and would doubtless yield good crops of grain and

-potatoes, etc. Lewis Barney killed an antelope this afternoon which was

-distributed as he saw fit, inasmuch as he was not appointed a hunter.

-The evening is very fine, calm and pleasant indeed.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, June 11</h3>

-

-<p>Arose at four o'clock to try and get some more fish. Morning fine and

-warm, but caught only four. I procured a sample of the stone coal from

-G. A. Smith. It looks good. This place reminds me of England. The

-calm, still morning with the warbling of many birds, the rich grass,

-good streams, and plenty of timber, make it pleasant. At 7:35 we again

-continued our journey along the banks of the river which appears

-somewhat wider here than at Laramie. At two and a half miles we passed

-a deep hollow, the banks on both sides being very steep. At four and a

-quarter miles put up a guide board at 100 miles from Laramie, having

-traveled it in a week lacking two and a quarter hours. At 11:50 we

-halted for noon in a grove of timber where there is plenty of good

-feed for a large company. The land since morning has been generally

-level, but sandy and no grass. The road somewhat crooked. About a mile

-back we came around a bend to the south caused by a deep ravine. We

-had to travel more than a mile to make a quarter of a mile direct.

-William Empey, Edmund Elsworth, and Francis M. Pomeroy, each killed an

-antelope. Several of the brethren have taken an interest in the guide

-boards and wherever they see a piece of board sufficiently large, they

-pick it up and preserve it. By this means we have now got enough to

-last 200 miles. The distance we have traveled since morning is nine and

-a quarter miles, being 105 miles in the week including Sunday, or 100

-miles in six days. About half an hour after we halted, Brother Joseph

-Hancock came in with the hind quarters of an antelope which he killed

-about three miles back. He could not carry the remainder and left it on

-the ground. At two o'clock we started again. After traveling one mile,

-we crossed a very crooked, muddy creek, about twelve feet wide and over

-a foot deep. The descent and ascent were both bad on account of a crook

-from one to the other. There is plenty of feed on its banks, but no

-wood. Five and three-quarters miles farther another muddy creek about

-three feet wide and bad to cross on account of the clay being very soft

-in its banks. The balance of the road good, but considerably crooked.

-At half past five o'clock we came to a halt on account of seeing a

-number of wagons about a half mile ahead which proved to be two of

-the Missouri companies camped on the banks of the river and preparing

-to cross here. It was also ascertained that there is no camping place

-beyond them unless we go some distance. It was decided to turn off to

-the river opposite where we are and camp for the night and the wagons

-proceeded accordingly. We went a half a mile from the road and at six

-o'clock formed our encampment near the river where there is plenty of

-timber, having come on the road this afternoon seven and three-quarters

-miles and during the day seventeen miles, exclusive of the distance we

-turned off to camp. The feed here is good and plentiful. The region on

-the banks of the river is pretty level, but a few miles to the south

-there are very high bluffs. Very little chance for feed except in

-places on the banks of the river and generally where there is timber.

-These Missourian companies inform us that the regular crossing place is

-twelve miles farther and that our brethren are gone on there and also

-the balance of the Missourian companies. These men have got a light

-flat boat with them and have already got one load over. They say they

-have killed three bears between here and the bluffs. They have also

-killed a buffalo. There have been signs of bears seen by our brethren

-a number of times, but no bears for a certainty. We have only seen

-one buffalo since we left Laramie until today, when several have been

-seen. One of the Missourians brought a snow ball from the hill on the

-south. He gave Rockwood a piece of it, and he brought it to camp. Elder

-Kimball and several others saw it which now convinces us snow is yet

-lying on these high bluffs. Henson Walker, Charles Barnum and Brother

-Owens have each killed an antelope this afternoon, making eight during

-the day.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, June 12</h3>

-

-<p>Morning very fine with nice east breeze. Brother Markham has learned

-this morning that Obadiah Jennings was the principal in killing Bowman

-in Missouri. Bowman was one of the guard who let Joseph and Hyrum and

-the others get away when prisoners in Missouri. The mob suspected him

-and rode him on a bar of iron till they killed him. At a quarter past

-eight o'clock we continued our journey. At one and a half miles crossed

-a deep gulch pretty difficult to descend but not bad to ascend. One and

-three-quarters miles farther, we crossed a small creek about two feet

-wide on a bridge which the brethren fixed, they having started ahead

-of the wagons for that purpose. One mile beyond the last mentioned

-creek we crossed another muddy stream about five feet wide, and one

-and a half feet deep. At a quarter to 12:00, we halted after crossing

-another large ravine, having traveled seven and three-quarters miles

-over a sandy, barren prairie. In some places it is soft, although the

-soil is much like clay in appearance. The road somewhat crooked, and

-the day fine and warm. During the halt, Brother Rockwood called upon

-the brethren to help fix another ravine immediately west of us. Many

-turned out and it was soon done. James Case and S. Markham went to the

-river opposite here to see if it could be forded. They waded their

-horses over and found the water about four feet six inches deep in the

-channel and the current very swift. Of course it could not be forded

-with loads in the wagons, but the loading would have to be ferried in

-the boat. They made a report of this kind on their return to camp and

-about the same time Brother Chesley came down from the brethren ahead

-and reported their progress and the nature of the crossing place, etc.

-A number of the brethren in company with Elder Kimball and Chesley

-went to the river opposite the camp to decide whether to cross here or

-go on. Brother Markham and Case again went over, but it was finally

-concluded to go up to the other ferry. We accordingly started at half

-past two. I went ahead on foot. At three and a quarter miles, crossed

-a creek about five feet wide. At half past four the encampment was

-formed on the banks of the river, having come four miles, and during

-the day eleven and a quarter. It is about a half a mile from our camp

-to the place where they ferry. I arrived at the brethren's camp at four

-o'clock and learned that they arrived here yesterday about noon. Two

-of the Missourian companies arrived about the same time. The brethren

-concluded that a raft would be of no use on account of the swiftness of

-the current. The Missourian company offered to pay them well if they

-would carry their company over in the boat and a contract was made to

-do so for $1.50 per load, the brethren to receive their pay in flour at

-$2.50 per hundred. They commenced soon after and this evening finished

-their work, and received the pay mostly in flour, a little meal and

-some bacon. They have made $34.00 with the cutter all in provisions

-which is a great blessing to the camp inasmuch as a number of the

-brethren have had no bread stuff for some days. During the afternoon

-yesterday, one of the men of the Missourian company undertook to swim

-across the river with his clothes on. When he reached the current

-he became frightened and began to moan. Some of our men went to him

-with the cutter and arrived in time to save his life. The Missourian

-company seem to feel well toward us and express their joy at having got

-across the river so soon. Rodney Badger exchanged wagons with one of

-them and got a wagon as good as his own, only the tire wants setting.

-He got a horse, 100 lbs. flour, 25 lbs. of bacon and some crackers

-to boot. The provisions and horse are considered to be worth as much

-as his wagon. Since the brethren arrived here they have killed three

-buffalo, a grizzly bear and three cubs, and two antelope. The buffalo

-are very fat and the meat is good and sweet. According to the idea of

-some French travelers camped here, the buffalo are making down east

-behind the hills opposite here, which they say is a certain sign that

-the Indians are on Sweet Water hunting them. The brethren say that the

-buffalo are very plentiful back of these hills. When I returned to camp

-I learned that Tunis Rappleyee and Artemas Johnson were missing, the

-former having started for the hills to get a little snow; the latter

-having been hunting all day. A company were sent out with the bugle to

-find them. Brother Rappleyee returned about eleven o'clock. Johnson was

-found by the brethren who returned still later. All agreeing with the

-report that the hills are eight or ten miles distance, although they do

-not appear more than one mile. There were four antelope killed by the

-brethren but divided according to the feelings of those who killed them.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, June 13</h3>

-

-<p>The morning fine and pleasant. At nine o'clock the brethren assembled

-in the circle for prayer and after they had spent some time, Elder

-Kimball arose and addressed them exhorting them to be watchful and

-humble, to remember their covenants and above all things avoid

-everything that will lead to division, etc. He made use of the

-similitude of the potter and the clay to show that every man had the

-privilege of being exalted to honor and glory if he did not mar in

-the hands of the potter, but would continue passive, etc. His remarks

-were very touching and appropriate to our circumstances. President

-Young followed next on the "Liberty of the Gospel" showing that it

-guarantees all fullness of liberty to every man which fact will tend to

-his salvation and increase, but does not give us liberty to break the

-laws of God, to wander off to the mountains and get lost, nor to kill

-the works of God's hands to waste it, etc. He was followed by Elder

-Pratt on the subject of our avoiding all excesses of folly of every

-description, inasmuch as it disqualifies from the society of just men

-and angels. He exhorted the brethren to be watchful and to seek after

-wisdom and knowledge. The meeting was dismissed at half past twelve

-and a company were then dispatched to get poles to lash the wagons

-together to prevent their rolling over when crossing. Another company

-were sent over the river to build a raft to cross over provisions, etc.

-The brethren are gone to work and are diligently preparing to cross the

-river tomorrow. The day has been very hot, more like a summer day than

-any we have yet had on the journey. The ground seems to be alive with

-the large crickets, and it is said that the bears feed on them and pick

-them up very fast. A person who has never seen them could form no idea

-of the vast numbers of crickets in this region. I spent the day writing

-in Elder Kimball's journal. Phineas Young came in from the mountain,

-having killed a deer.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, June 14</h3>

-

-<p>Morning cloudy and cool. At four o'clock the first division commenced

-ferrying their goods over the river in the cutter and some time

-afterwards commenced taking the wagons across on a raft which proved

-to be very slow work. The second division also began to take their

-goods over on a raft but the current was so strong they only took two

-loads over in it and then quit. The second division then got a rope

-stretched across the river from shore to shore and lashing two wagons

-fast together to keep them from rolling over, they dragged them over

-by the rope, letting them drift with the current to save breaking the

-rope. When the wagons struck on the sand on the other side the upper

-one keeled over, and finally rolled over the other one, breaking the

-bows considerably and losing iron, etc., in the wagon to the amount of

-$30.00 belonging to John Pack. The other wagon had the reach broken

-and some of the bows. They next lashed four wagons together abreast

-and dragged them over the same way. All got over well except the upper

-one which turned on its side, but it was righted again without damage.

-They next tried one wagon alone, but as soon as it got into the current

-it rolled over and over, breaking the bows pretty badly. The plan of

-taking one wagon at a time on a raft is the safest, no accident having

-occurred with it and the wagons got over dry but it is very slow and

-would take us three or four days to get all the wagons across. The wind

-blows strong from the southwest which is much to our disadvantage. At

-3:30 we had a very heavy thunder storm. The rain was heavy indeed,

-accompanied by hail and as strong a wind as I ever witnessed. After

-the storm was over the ferrying was continued, getting my trunk, etc.,

-and the loads in Brother Johnson and Harmon's wagons over, and also

-Harmon's wagon, Johnson's being got over just before the storm. It took

-till nearly ten o'clock to get the loading into the wagons and get

-regulated. The river has been rising all day and has risen very fast

-since the storm. The men have tried hard, much of the time being in the

-water and sometimes up to their armpits which is very fatiguing indeed.

-When they quit at night the first division had got eleven wagons over,

-the second division twelve, making twenty-three wagons after a very

-hard day's labor. There was no difficulty in getting the freight over

-for one man can carry it in the cutter faster than all the rest of the

-camp can get the wagons over.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, June 15</h3>

-

-<p>The morning fine but very windy. The brethren continued ferrying wagons

-over on the raft and also built two other rafts. The wind being so high

-they could not get along very fast. In the afternoon they commenced

-driving over some of the horses and cattle belonging to Brother Crow's

-company. They neglected to take the lariats off the horses and the

-buffalo horse was soon seen to be drowning. Some of the men immediately

-went to it with the skiff and dragged him to the shore but could not

-succeed in bringing him to life. His natural make seemed to hurt him

-from swimming. The rest all got over safely. The cattle got over

-safely also; the current was very strong, the wind high and the river

-rising which made it look dangerous to swim the cattle across. It was

-concluded today to leave several brethren here to make a boat and

-keep a ferry till the next company comes up. By that means they will

-probably make enough to supply a large company with provisions. We have

-learned from a Missourian that there is a large company of emigrants

-coming up on the north side of the Platt above Grand Island. There are

-doubtless some of our brethren and if so they will probably reach us

-before we get through. The day continued windy and somewhat inclined to

-storm, but they succeeded in getting nearly twenty wagons over before

-night.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, June 16</h3>

-

-<p>The morning fine but strong west wind. The brethren continue ferrying.

-A company have gone back about three miles to make two canoes on which

-they intend to build a boat to be used here till the next company

-comes up. Another company also went about half a mile up the river to

-make slabs or puncheons to lay on the canoes. A while before dark the

-brethren returned from below with two good canoes twenty-five feet

-long each and nearly finished and ready to put together. The ferrying

-continued all day but with great difficulty on account of the strong

-wind blowing down stream. When they started over with Brother Goddard's

-wagon the wind was blowing strong. James Craig and Wordsworth were on

-the raft with poles and when they got nearly half way across Brother

-Craig's pole stuck in the sand and threw him overboard. He swam back

-to shore and in spite of Brother Wordsworth's exertions, the wind

-and current carried the raft about two miles down the river. It was

-finally landed by the help of the cutter and without accident. They

-have had three rafts working today, two of which they now work by oars

-which are proving to be far superior to poles in this strong current.

-At the close of day there were still a number of wagons on the south

-shore. Those which had been brought over could not be easily counted on

-account of their being scattered all along the banks of the river for

-about a mile in length. It was now contemplated to leave a company of

-brethren at this ferry to ferry over the gentile companies for a dollar

-and a half a load till the next company of our brethren arrive. This is

-the object for which the new boat is being built. They will thus earn

-a good stock of provisions for themselves and be prepared to set the

-brethren of the next company over without delay and will also be able

-to preserve the boat for our use, for it is the instructions of the

-President that when they have ferried our brethren over to cache the

-boat and come on with them.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, June 17</h3>

-

-<p>The morning fine but windy and cold. The brethren renewed the ferrying

-early and soon after noon they had got the last wagon safely over

-which was a matter of rejoicing to all the camp. Two companies of the

-Missourians had arrived and made application to be set over at a dollar

-and a half a load. When the contract was made with the first company to

-be sent across as soon as our wagons were over, the other company of

-ten wagons offered to pay the brethren 50c per man extra if they would

-set them over first, making $5.00 over the stated price for ferriage

-being ten of the brethren to work at it. Colonel Rockwood had made a

-contract to the above effect with the first company and did not like to

-break it. However, he received a hint that this was Colonel Markham's

-day for the use of the boat and consequently Colonel Markham had a

-right to take the last offer if he chose. He took the hint and they

-went to work forthwith at a dollar and a half a wagon in provisions

-at Missouri prices and 50c extra per man in what they preferred for

-themselves. The afternoon and evening was very cold indeed with a very

-strong wind. After President Young and Kimball got their wagons over,

-being about the last, orders were given for the camp to come together

-and form the wagons in a circle near the ferry. It took till near dark

-before all the wagons got up. The ferrying was continued all night and

-till daylight at which time many of the Missourians' wagons in the two

-companies were over.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, June 18</h3>

-

-<p>Morning very cold and windy. The brethren continued working at the

-new boat, others continued ferrying the Missourians' wagons over. It

-was concluded not to start today but wait and assist in finishing the

-boat and also to take the provisions on which will be realized from

-these two companies. After dinner, I went with brother Pack to fish

-in the last creek we crossed about a mile and a half distance. We

-found the fish numerous and had good luck. I caught sixty-five very

-nice ones which would average half a pound weight each. About six

-o'clock I started back but found I had got more than I could easily

-carry to camp. However, when I got about half way, Brother Cloward

-met me and helped to carry them. We arrived at the camp about sundown

-pretty well tired. The afternoon was very warm and pleasant. When we

-arrived the Twelve and some others were going to council. I went with

-them. The names of those who are appointed to tarry were read over as

-follows: Thomas Grover, John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, Appleton Harmon,

-Edmund Ellsworth, Francis M. Pomeroy, William Empey, James Davenport,

-and Benjamin F. Stewart. Thomas Grover was appointed captain. The

-President then referred to Brother Glines who was wishful to stay

-but the president said he had no council for him to tarry, but he

-might do as he had a mind to. Some explanations followed by Glines,

-but the unanimous feeling of the brethren was to have him go on. The

-President preached a short sermon for the benefit of the young elders.

-He represented them as being continually grasping at things ahead

-of them which belong to others. He said the way for young elders to

-enlarge their dominion and power is to go to the world and preach and

-then they can get a train and bring it up to the house of the Lord with

-them, etc. The letter of instructions was then read and approved by the

-brethren and the council was then dismissed.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, June 19</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine but cool. At 7:50 the camp started out again in good

-health and spirits and the teams in very good order. It was remarked

-by several that their stock had fattened so much while stopping at

-the ferry, they hardly knew them. The grass appears to be rich and

-good. The first six miles of the road was nearly in a west direction

-over several considerably high bluffs. At that distance the road turns

-suddenly to the south and rises up a very high bluff which is upwards

-of a mile from the foot to the summit. There is some interesting

-scenery on the top of this bluff, especially a range of rough, coarse,

-sandy rocks of a dark brown color, rising abruptly above the surface

-of the land in huge masses and ranging east and west. The descent

-on the south side was rough, crooked and uneven, and about half way

-down was a bed of white earth mixed with black in places and others

-yellow. In one place you can pick up small fragments of rock of each

-color within a yard of each other. Towards the foot, the road is still

-more uneven and there are several steep pitches and rises. At one

-o'clock we halted for noon on a spot of good grass about a quarter of

-a mile from a small spring which is the first water we have come to

-since leaving the ferry which is eleven and a quarter miles. There

-is no timber nearer than the bluffs probably two miles away and that

-is small cedar and little of it. The Red Buttes are nearly opposite

-to this place towards the southeast and appear to be two high bluffs

-of red earth or sand, presenting a very triangular, yet interesting

-appearance. After stopping about an hour it was decided to move on

-to the spring and we started accordingly and found it to be a small

-stream of water rising out of the quick sands. At the distance of

-twelve miles from the ferry there is quite a lake of water supposed

-to be supplied by a spring. Indeed we could see the water boil up out

-of the mud in several places. The grass on the banks of this lake is

-good and plentiful but no timber within two miles or upwards. After

-watering teams at the lake, at ten minutes to three we continued our

-journey, bearing near a southwest course over rolling prairie. At the

-distance of eight miles from the spring there is a steep descent from

-a bluff and at the foot there is a high ridge of sharp pointed rocks

-running parallel with the road for near a quarter of a mile, leaving

-only sufficient space for wagons to pass. At the south point there is a

-very large rock lying close to where the road makes a bend, making it

-somewhat difficult to get by without striking it. The road is also very

-rough with cobble stones. At 7:40 we formed our encampment in a small

-spot surrounded by high bluffs, having traveled this afternoon ten

-and a quarter miles and during the day twenty-one and a half which is

-the longest distance we have traveled in one day since we left Winter

-Quarters, and this is considered by all to be the worst camping ground

-we have had on the journey, but we were obliged to take it for there

-is neither wood, grass, nor water since we left the spring. The land

-being perfectly sandy and barren, and nothing growing but wild sage and

-a small prickly shrub something like those on the moors in Lancashire,

-England. There is some grass in this place for our teams but no wood.

-The brethren have to make use of the wild sage and buffalo chips to do

-their cooking. There are two small streams of water, one appears to

-come from the northwest and is not very bad water; the other is from

-the southwest and is so bad that cattle will not drink it. It is strong

-of salt or rather saleratus and smells extremely filthy. Its banks are

-so perfectly soft that a horse or ox cannot go down to drink without

-sinking immediately nearly overhead in thick, filthy mud, and is one

-of the most horrid, swampy, stinking places I ever saw. It was found

-necessary to keep a guard out to prevent the cattle from getting into

-it and orders were given to drive them down a little east where feed is

-pretty good and it is not so dangerous of their miring. The mosquitoes

-are very bad indeed at this place which adds to the loathsome, solitary

-scenery around. Porter Rockwell returned from hunting soon after we had

-camped and reported that he had killed a fat buffalo about two miles

-off. A team was sent to fetch in the meat which they did not return

-till long after dark. Elder Kimball saw six buffalo while riding ahead

-to look out a camp ground. They are represented as being more tame.

-Myers killed two buffalo, but took only the tallow and tongues and left

-the rest to rot on the ground. John Norton and Andrew Gibbons left the

-camp at the springs and went out to hunt, expecting we should stay

-there till Monday. Gibbons has not been seen or heard of since. Norton

-has returned and reports that he has killed a buffalo and left it back

-not far from the spring. About nine o'clock there was an alarm that an

-ox had mired. He was nearly covered but soon got out again.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, June 20</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine, mosquitoes very bad. Two more oxen found almost buried

-in the mud and all hands appeared wishful to leave this place and

-at a quarter past five o'clock we moved out. The first mile was bad

-traveling, there being several steep pitches in the road making it

-dangerous for axletrees. A number of the brethren went ahead with picks

-and spades and improved the road somewhat. After traveling three and

-three quarters miles we halted for breakfast at seven o'clock beside a

-small clear stream of spring water about a foot wide, but plenty for

-camping purposes. The feed on its banks good and plentiful but no wood

-yet. Elder Kimball states that when he and Elder Benson were riding

-ahead last evening to look out a camping ground they came within a

-quarter of a mile of this place but were not near enough to discover

-the water. A while before they arrived here, as they were riding

-slowly along, they saw six men suddenly spring up from the grass to

-the left of the road. The men were clothed in blankets some white and

-some blue and had every appearance of being Indians and the brethren

-thought they were Indians. The six mounted their horses and started on

-in a direction parallel with the road. The brethren also kept on their

-course. In a little while one of the supposed Indians left the rest

-and rode towards the brethren and motioned with his hand for them to

-go back. They, however, kept on and paid no attention to his motion.

-When he saw them still coming, he wheeled round and joined the others

-who all put spurs to their horses and were soon out of sight behind a

-higher piece of land. Soon as they were out of sight Elder Kimball and

-Benson spurred their horses and rode to the ridge and as they arrived

-there they discovered a camp of the Missourians about a quarter of a

-mile to the left of the road and the six Indians were just entering

-the camp. The brethren were now satisfied that these Indians were

-Missourians and had taken this plan to keep us back from this good camp

-ground. It is considered as an old Missouri trick and an insult to

-the camp, and if they undertake to play Indian again, it is more than

-likely they will meet with Indian treatment. Their camp left here a

-little before we arrived this morning and it is now President Young's

-intention to press on a little faster and crowd them up a little. We

-have learned from one of the emigrants a few miles in our rear that

-Andrew Gibbons tarried with their camp over night. When he returned to

-the spring and found our camp gone and the Missourians' camp there, he

-told them of the dead buffalo killed by Norton. They went and fetched

-what meat they wanted and feasted on it, he joining with them and

-faring well. At a quarter past nine we proceeded on our journey. After

-traveling three miles, we arrived at the Willow spring and halted a

-little while to get water. This spring is about two feet wide and the

-water ten inches deep, perfectly clear, cold as ice water, and very

-good tasting. There is a willow grove extending for some distance

-above and below it which will answer very well for firing purposes.

-The grass is good and plentiful and it is one of the loveliest camping

-spots I have seen on the journey, though the land where the stream runs

-below the spring is soft and some danger of cattle miring. The spring

-is situated between two very high hills and is about three rods west

-of the road and shielded from the sun by a bank about eight feet high

-and the willow grove. A little piece before we arrived at the spring

-there are two very deep ravines to cross, which requires some care

-on the part of the teamsters to prevent accidents. At a quarter of a

-mile beyond the spring we began to ascend a very high hill which was

-one mile from the foot to the top and the ascent pretty steep. The

-summit of this hill is nicely rounding and considered to be much the

-highest we have traveled over. From the top can be seen a vast extent

-of country to the south, west, and north. For about twenty or thirty

-miles to the south there appears to be a tolerably level bottom over

-which our future road runs. Beyond this there are vast ranges of high

-hills whose summits are spotted with snow. In the distance to the

-southwest can be seen a small body of water which we suppose to be a

-part of the Sweet Water river. To the west the ridges of rocks or hills

-appear nearer. They are probably not over fifteen miles from us. On the

-north we can see hills a long distance. The one opposite Red Buttes,

-near the spring where we halted yesterday noon, appears only a few

-miles distance. The view from this hill is one of romantic beauty which

-cannot easily be surpassed and as President Young remarked, would be a

-splendid place for a summer mansion to keep tavern. We then descended

-on the southwest corner of the hill and found it to be just one mile

-farther to the foot. At the distance of three quarters of a mile

-farther we found a good place for feed, being plenty of grass, but no

-water nor wood. At a mile and a quarter still farther we crossed a very

-bad slough which is about a rod across and following the road, nearly

-three feet deep in water and stiff mud. Most of the wagons crossed a

-little to the right of the road and found it not so difficult to cross,

-yet very soft. There is also plenty of good grass at this spot. A mile

-beyond this slough we ascended a very steep bluff though not very high

-and the descent on the southwest is also very steep. At 2:45 we halted

-to feed in a ravine where there is plenty of grass and a good stream

-of water about three hundred yards south from the road but destitute

-of wood. We have traveled this forenoon nine miles over barren, sandy

-land being no grass only in the spots above mentioned. During the halt

-it was decided that President Young take the lead with his wagon and

-try to proceed a little faster. At five o'clock we again proceeded, the

-President's wagon going first; all the others keeping their places.

-I will here remark that it is the order of our traveling for each

-company of ten to go forward in their turn. The first ten in the first

-division taking the lead one day, then on the second day it falls in

-the rear of the first division, the second ten takes the lead and this

-continues till each company of ten have taken the lead one day a piece.

-Then the first division falls in the rear of the second division which

-also begins by companies of ten to take the lead of the road as stated

-above and when each ten have had their day, the second division again

-falls in the rear of the first which continues in the same order. Thus

-every man has his equal privilege of traveling one with another. After

-traveling two and a half miles we descended to the bottom land again

-and saw a small stream a little to the left of the road where there

-is plenty of grass. One and three quarters miles farther we crossed a

-creek of tolerably clear water about six feet wide and one foot deep,

-but neither grass nor timber on its banks. After traveling seven miles

-this afternoon we turned off from the road to the left and at 8:20

-formed our encampment on a ridge near the last mentioned creek where

-there is good feed, having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter

-miles, exclusive of allowance for turning from the road, and during the

-day twenty miles. We had been in hopes of reaching the Sweet Water but

-it appears we are yet some miles from it. The whole country around is

-entirely destitute of timber, not a tree to be seen, nor a shrub larger

-than the wild sage which abounds in all this region of country and will

-answer for cooking when nothing else can be found. Some anxiety is

-felt on account of the absence of Elder Woodruff and John Brown. They

-started ahead this morning with instructions to go on about fifteen

-miles and if they found a good place to camp, to stay. They have not

-been seen or heard of since. It is supposed they have fallen in with

-some of the companies either forward or back and have concluded to

-tarry with them over night.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, June 21</h3>

-

-<p>Morning very fine and warm. From this place we can see a huge pile

-of rocks to the southwest a few miles. We have supposed this to be

-the rock of Independence. After breakfast I went to view it and found

-that it was a vast pile of rocks extending from south to north about

-five hundred feet and in width, one hundred feet. The rocks are large

-and seem piled on one another with the edges up. There is no earth

-on the ridge but a little drift sand in which there are currant and

-rose bushes growing. I saw a large mouse on the top which had a long

-bushy tail like a squirrel. It sat up and acted in every respect like

-a squirrel, but in size and color resembled a mouse. At 8:35 the camp

-proceeded onward. After traveling three and a quarter miles we arrived

-on a bed of saleratus which was a quarter of a mile across and on which

-were several lakes of salt water. This place looks swampy and smells

-bad. The beds of saleratus smell like lime, but the saleratus itself

-is said to raise bread equal to the best bought in eastern markets.

-Lorenzo Young gathered a pail full in a short time with a view to test

-its qualities. Large quantities may be gathered in a short time and

-when pulverized it looks clean and nice. We are now satisfied that the

-water we saw from the hills yesterday must have been some of these

-lakes as the Sweet Water is not yet in sight, but these being high,

-show at a long distance. The water is not very salty but brackish and

-tastes sickly. It is reported by travelers that these are poisonous,

-but it is probable that all the poison there is about them is their

-salt causing cattle to drink freely when they can get no other water,

-and the more they drink, the more thirsty they get till they burst

-themselves, which is said to be the effect of drinking the poison,

-viz., to burst. As we passed along a little farther we saw another

-large lake to the left and one to the right of the same nature, their

-banks mostly white with saleratus. At twelve o'clock we arrived on

-the banks of the Sweet Water, having traveled seven and a half miles

-over a very sandy road destitute of wood, water or grass. The distance

-from the upper ferry of the Platte river to this place is forty-nine

-miles by the roadometer. There has formerly been a ford here but lately

-emigrants have found a better ford higher up the river. At this place

-the river is probably seven or eight rods wide and over three feet deep

-at the ford, but in some places it is much deeper still. The current

-is very swift, the water a little muddy, but pleasant tasting. By

-watching it closely it is easy to see on the surface numerous small

-bright particles floating which at first sight might be supposed to be

-salt, however the water itself has not the least saline taste. On the

-banks of the river there is plenty of good grass but destitute of wood

-there being only one solitary tree to be seen and that stands beside

-this fording place. The only chance for fuel appears to be the wild

-sage and other small shrubbery occasionally growing in spots on the low

-banks. After we halted, Sister Harriet Young made some bread using the

-lake saleratus and when baked was pronounced to raise the bread and

-taste equal to the best she had ever used and it requires less of this

-than the common saleratus. A number of the brethren went back during

-the halt and filled their pails with it calculating to make use of it

-during our future journey. The day has been very hot and no wind which

-makes it unpleasant traveling. Elder Woodruff and Brown again joined

-the camp on our arrival here and reported that they had spent the night

-in one of the gentile camps which are now some miles ahead of us. There

-are many high hills or ridges of the granite rock in the neighborhood,

-especially in the east and west, all entirely destitute of vegetation

-and which present a very wild and desolate as well as romantic aspect.

-I can describe their appearance only by saying that it seems as though

-giants had in by-gone days taken them in wheelbarrows of tremendous

-size and wheeled up in large heaps, masses of heavy clay which has

-consolidated and become solid, hard rock. The rock Independence lies

-a little west of where we have halted and after dinner I went to view

-it as well as many others. It lies on the north bank of the river in

-this shape: The extreme southeast corner reaches to within about three

-rods of the river and runs in a direction northwest while the river

-at this place runs nearly a west course. It is composed of the same

-barren granite as other masses in this region and is probably 400 yards

-long, 80 yards wide and 100 yards in perpendicular height as near as

-I could guess. The ascent is difficult all around. Travelers appear

-to have ascended it mostly at the southeast corner where there are

-some hundreds of names of persons who have visited it, both male and

-female, painted on the projecting surfaces with black, red, and some

-with yellow paint. About half way up there is a cavern about twelve

-feet long and three feet wide at the bottom but at the top about ten

-feet wide and eight feet high, formed by a very large heavy mass of

-rock having sometime fallen over an opening or cavity leaving scarcely

-room enough for a man to enter. However there are three places by which

-it may be entered though not without difficulty. There are a number

-of names inside the cavern put on with black paint, doubtless being

-the names of persons who have visited it. On the top of the rock the

-surface is a little rounding something like a large mound with large

-masses of loose rock lying scattered around. Proceeding forward you

-descend, when nearly half way of the length, to a considerably lower

-surface which continues some distance and then rises high again to

-about the same height as the first section. On the top there are a

-number of small pools of water, no doubt collected during heavy rains

-and having no chance to run off, they stand until evaporated into the

-atmosphere. Some of the pools are eight inches deep and taste like rain

-water. It is more difficult descending from the rock than to ascend

-it on account of its being hard and slippery and nothing to hang on,

-and a visitor has to be careful or he will arrive on the ground with

-bruised limbs. At three o'clock p.m. they started on and on arriving

-at the rock found it to be one and a quarter miles from noon halt. We

-put up a guide board opposite the rock with this inscription on it.

-"To Fort John 175¼ miles. Pioneers, June 21, 1847. W. R." The

-letters W. R. are branded on all the guide boards at the doctor's

-request so as to have a mark that the Saints might know; and his

-brand is generally known by the Saints. After traveling on the banks

-of the river one mile beyond the rock, we forded over and found it

-nearly three feet deep in the channel. All the wagons got over without

-difficulty or much loss of time. We then continued a southwest course

-four and a half miles farther and arrived opposite Devil's Gate which

-lies a little to the west of the road; and a quarter of a mile beyond

-this, the road passes between two high ridges of granite, leaving a

-surface of about two rods of level ground on each side the road. The

-road then bends to the west and a quarter of a mile farther, passes

-over a small creek two feet wide but bad crossing on account of its

-being deep and muddy, requiring caution in the teamsters to prevent

-accident. President Young, Kimball and others went to view the north

-side of Devil's Gate and returning reported that the devils would not

-let them pass, or meaning that it was impossible to go through the

-gateway so called. We proceeded on a little farther and at 6:35 formed

-our encampment on the bank of the river having traveled this afternoon

-seven and three quarters miles, and during the day fifteen and a

-quarter. The feed here is good and plentiful and a little cedar can

-be obtained at the foot of one of the rocky ridges about a quarter of

-a mile back. After we had camped I went back to view the Devil's Gate

-where the river runs between two high rocky ridges for the distance of

-about 200 yards. The rock on the east side is perpendicular and was

-found by a barometrical measurements by Elder Pratt to be 399 feet 4¼

-inches high. The one on the west side is about the same height but

-not perpendicular bending a little from the river gradually to the

-top. The river has a channel of about three rods in width through this

-pass which increases its swiftness and, dashing furiously against the

-huge fragments of rock which have fallen from the mountain, makes

-a roar which can be heard plainly in the camp. One of the brethren

-fired off his rifle at the foot of the rock and the report resembled

-much like that of a cannon. Others tumbled fragments of rocks from a

-projection at the entrance about 150 feet high, which made a very loud

-rumbling sound caused by the echoes. The scenery is one of romantic

-grandeur and it seems wonderful how the river could ever find a channel

-through such a mass of heavy, solid rock. The view from this evening's

-encampment over the surrounding country is sublime. To the east, south,

-and southwest the Sweet Water mountains tower high and appear spotted

-with snow; and about twenty to thirty miles distance from the river to

-the west are also hills and ridges interspersed as far as the eye can

-reach, except the land immediately on the river which appears even for

-many miles. These high, barren, rocky ridges on the north side of the

-river seem to continue for many miles.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, June 22</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine. At 7:20 we continued our journey and about 200 yards

-from where we camped, crossed a very crooked creek about six feet wide

-descending from the southwest. After traveling three miles over heavy,

-sandy roads, we crossed another creek about six feet wide; and three

-and three quarters miles farther, a creek two feet wide. Somewhere near

-this last creek, Brother Lorenzo Young broke one of his axle trees

-which detained him some time. One of the Missourian companies came up

-soon after the accident and took his load into one of their wagons and

-by splicing a piece of wood on his axle tree, he was enabled to follow

-our camp. At 11:55 we halted on the banks of the river, having traveled

-ten miles over a very sandy, barren land, there being no grass only

-on the creeks and river banks. During the halt, Elder Pratt took an

-observation and found the latitude of this place 42° 28' 25". President

-Young went back to meet Lorenzo but soon found he was coming on with

-the Missourian company who were approaching near us. He immediately

-turned about and on arriving back gave orders to get up the teams and

-proceed so as to keep ahead of the other company who say they have

-traveled from Independence Rock without halting. However, they passed

-before we could start and got ahead of us. The day has been hot and

-a little wind. At 2:25 we continued, finding the road again leaving

-the river. At half a mile, we passed a very large lake on our left

-which covers an area of over 80 acres of land. Its banks are mostly

-white with the alkali or saleratus. After passing this lake the road

-runs south, passing between high sandy bluffs after which it again

-turns around gradually towards the west and descending a steep bluff

-over very heavy, sandy land. After traveling five and three quarters

-miles crossed a creek about six feet wide and a foot deep. The bank on

-each side is very steep and sandy, making it difficult for teams to

-get up. Here Sterling Driggs had his harness broken to pieces by his

-horses springing suddenly when attempting to rise out of the creek.

-They cleared themselves from the wagon which was hauled up by a yoke

-of oxen so as not to hinder the rest from crossing. The banks of this

-creek are well lined with sage instead of grass which is very large and

-thick on the ground on account of which Elder Kimball named this Sage

-creek. After passing this creek one and three quarters miles we again

-arrived on the banks of the river and continued to travel near to it.

-At two and a quarter miles farther crossed a creek three feet wide, but

-not much to be depended on for water. At 7:50 we formed our encampment

-at the foot of a very high gravelly bluff and near the river, having

-traveled this afternoon ten and three quarters miles and during the day

-twenty and three quarters miles over mostly a very sandy road. This

-is a very good camp ground, there being plenty of grass for our teams

-which is well worth traveling a few miles extra. From this place the

-country seems fortified by hills and mountains especially on the west.

-Lewis Barney and Joseph Hancock have each killed an antelope during the

-day, but there appears to be no buffalo in the neighborhood.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, June 23</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine and warm. After breakfast I went to the top of the

-high bluff expecting to get a good view of the country west but

-was disappointed in consequence of the many ridges or bluffs but a

-little distance beyond us. At seven o'clock the camp moved forward

-and immediately after saw a graveyard on the left of the road with a

-board stuck up with these words written on it: "Matilda Crowley. B.

-July 16th, 1830, and D. July 7, 1846." On reflecting afterward that

-some of the numerous emigrants who had probably started with a view

-to spend the remainder of their days in the wild Oregon, had fallen

-by the way and their remains had to be left by their friends far from

-the place of destination, I felt a renewed anxiety that the Lord will

-kindly preserve the lives of all my family, that they may be permitted

-to gather to the future home of the Saints, enjoy the society of the

-people of God for many years to come, and when their days are numbered

-that their remains may be deposited at the feet of the servants of God,

-rather than be left far away in a wild country. And oh, Lord, grant

-this sincere desire of thy servant in the name of Thy Son Jesus. Amen.

-After traveling one and a half miles we crossed a very shoal stream of

-clear, cold water about five feet wide. There is but little grass here

-although a number of bitter cottonwood trees grow on the banks. There

-being no name on the map for this creek, it was named Bitter Cottonwood

-Creek to designate it in our future travel. It is probable that this

-stream is caused by the melting of the snow on the mountains and if

-so, could not be depended on for a camp ground late in the summer.

-After passing this creek, the river runs between some of the high

-rocky ridges, the road at the same time bending a little southwest to

-pass around them. After traveling five miles beyond the last mentioned

-creek, we again descended to the banks of the river where would be a

-pretty good camp ground although the grass is not so plentiful as in

-many other places on the banks of the river. We traveled till 11:05 on

-the river banks then halted for noon where the road and river separated

-a little farther and hence we would probably not find grass again for a

-number of miles. The land continues very sandy making it hard on teams;

-our course about west, the day very warm with a light south breeze.

-We traveled eight and a half miles this morning. There are some small

-cedar trees on the rocky bluffs which is the only timber seen since we

-passed the Bitter Cottonwood. Latitude of this place 42° 31' 20". At

-1:10 we continued our journey and after proceeding half a mile, found

-the river turns between the granite ridges in a northwest direction and

-seems to have but a narrow space to pass through in several places. The

-road at the same place turns south to avoid the ridges for over a mile

-and then bends to the southwest for some distance farther. The road at

-the foot of these rocky hills is extremely sandy and heavy traveling.

-On arriving at the south side of the hills, we were suddenly cheered

-with a very plain view of the Wind river chain of the Rocky Mountains

-towering high up in the air and perfectly white with snow. Some of

-the peaks appear to run up very high, but we are evidently many miles

-from them yet. After we passed this place, the road gradually bends to

-the west and northwest and at the distance of six and three quarters

-miles from our noon halt brings us to the banks of the river again. We

-continued on the banks of the river till 6:20, at which time we formed

-our encampment, having traveled this afternoon eight and a half miles

-and during the day seventeen. As usual there is plenty of grass on the

-river banks but no wood. There are some dry buffalo chips and wild sage

-which answer tolerably well for cooking. The land over which we have

-traveled, except in the several places above mentioned, is perfectly

-barren except for wild sage which abounds, but there is scarcely a

-spear of grass to be seen. These granite ridges continue from the Rock

-Independence to this place, mostly on the north side the river. Here

-they recede from the river a few miles and then cease. There are two of

-the Missourian companies camped, one about a half a mile and the other

-a mile west of us and we are given to understand we have got a long

-distance to travel without grass or water. It is stated that a man from

-one of these companies left his company a few days ago and went ahead

-to examine the route, etc. On their arrival here they found him in one

-of these rocky hills hid up for fear of the Indians. He reports that he

-has been to the pass and that we shall find water about fourteen miles

-from here. He has come from the pass in two nights and hid up in the

-day time to avoid Indians, but has seen none. He says it is not over

-twenty-eight miles to the pass from here. After we camped, Burr Frost

-set up his forge and set some wagon tires and repaired the wheels of

-the wagons for one of the Missourians. There are no buffalo to be seen

-yet and not much game of any kind. Lewis Barney killed two antelope

-and the brethren mostly killed one or two every day. The Sweet Water

-mountains do not appear very high but have considerable snow lying on

-them in some places. They appear to run nearly parallel with the river

-to about from twenty to thirty miles distance to the south.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, June 24</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine but cool. It was calculated to make an early start so as

-to pass the two companies of the Missourians and get the best chance

-for feed at night, but they started out a half an hour before we were

-ready. We proceeded onward at 6:15 and a little over a mile from where

-we camped, found the river again bending northwest while the road

-continues near a west course and soon rises a high bluff. On the top of

-this, we appear to have a level road for many miles. After traveling

-five miles from morning, we arrived at a level strip of land on the

-north side of the road where there is plenty of grass and apparently

-swampy and soft. It extends in the same direction with the road a

-mile and a half and appears to terminate where the road crosses the

-lower land although the grass and hollow continue southward for some

-distance. Just above where the road crosses at the west end there is

-some water standing around a small, circular, swampy spot of land

-probably about a half an acre. Near the edge at the northwest corner is

-a hole dug which is called the Ice Spring. The water in the hole smells

-strong of sulphur or alkali and is not pleasant tasting, but under the

-water which is over a foot deep there is as clear ice as I ever saw and

-good tasting. Some of the brethren had broken some pieces off which

-floated and I ate some of it which tasted sweet and pleasant. The ice

-is said to be four inches thick. The water is very cold although the

-weather is warm. A quarter of a mile farther than the spring, there is

-a small lake or spring of alkali on the left of the road and a little

-farther, still another lake. The latter is more pleasant tasting than

-the other, not being so strong of sulphur. It tastes very much like

-lye water mixed with salt. The ground around these lakes is white with

-alkali or saleratus and a number of the brethren picked up their pails

-full but we have learned that it ought to be used with care, it being

-so much stronger than common saleratus, if the same quantity is used

-it makes the bread quite green. After traveling from the ice spring

-ten and a quarter miles over a very uneven road, we descended a very

-steep bluff close in the rear of one of the Missourian companies. The

-other had halted a few miles ahead and we passed by them. While winding

-around and descending from this bluff we came in sight of the river

-again and about the same time. Elder Kimball picked up an Indian arrow

-point made of flint stone and nearly perfect. It was almost as white

-as alabaster. At 3:30 we tarried a little south from the road and

-formed our encampment in a line so as to enclose a bend in the river,

-having traveled seventeen and three quarters miles without halting on

-account of there being no water fit for cattle to drink. The feed here

-is very good and plenty of willow bushes for fuel. The river is about

-three rods wide and clearer and very cool. The last five or six miles

-of the road were not so sandy but hard and good traveling. One of the

-Missourian companies have gone on, but the other camped a piece down

-the river at the fording place. A while before dark when the brethren

-were fetching up their teams, John Holman, while bringing up President

-Young's best horse, having his loaded rifle in his hand, the horse

-undertook to run back past him and to prevent his running back, he

-jammed his gun at him. The cock caught in his clothes, the gun went off

-lodging the ball in the animal's body. It entered a little forward of

-the nigh hind leg on the under side of his belly making quite a large

-hole. The horse walked to camp but it is the opinion of many he cannot

-survive long. He appears to be in great pain, the sweat falling from

-his forehead in large drops. President Young is evidently filled with

-deep sorrow on account of this accident but attaches no blame to John

-who seems grieved very much. The brethren generally feel sorrowful,

-this being the second horse shot by accident on this mission.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, June 25</h3>

-

-<p>President Young's horse is dead. The morning is fine but very cool. At

-twenty minutes to seven o'clock, we pursued our journey fording the

-river a quarter of a mile below where AVC left the road last night.

-We found it still nearly three feet deep and the current very swift.

-After proceeding a half a mile beyond the ford, we crossed a stream

-about a rod wide which appears to come from the northeast and empties

-into the river a little farther up. Half a mile beyond this stream, we

-turned from the river to the northwest and began to ascend a very high

-bluff which we found pretty steep and over a mile and a half to the

-top. The road then gradually bends around towards the river and begins

-to descend over hill and hollow and at four and a quarter miles from

-where we camped, strikes the river again and continues a quarter of a

-mile on its banks. Here would be a pretty good place to camp, there

-being sufficient grass for a large company. After traveling a quarter

-of a mile near the river we encountered another high sandy ridge, the

-road again winding to the north to cross it. The descent on the west

-side is very steep and unpleasant. We strike the river again after

-traveling one and a quarter miles from where we last left it, but it

-is the opinion of many that by fording the river twice at the foot of

-the ridge we could save a mile and they think it can be forded. Colonel

-Rockwood has paid particular attention to the place and reports that

-one hour's labor for 100 men would dig down the foot of the ridge so as

-to make it good passing and save rising the ridge and a mile's travel

-without fording the river. After leaving the west foot of this ridge,

-we crossed a stream about twenty-five feet wide and again a quarter of

-a mile farther the same, only about six feet wide. On examining it, we

-found it to be a branch of the river running around a piece of land

-about a quarter of a mile across and forming a semi-circular island.

-The last crossing was soft on both banks. The high sandy bluffs on

-each side the river seem to approach much nearer to each other and

-leave only a small strip of low land on each bank. At 11:20 passed

-a creek two feet wide and halted for noon having traveled eight and

-three quarters miles, the wind blowing very strong from the northwest

-and making it cold and unpleasant traveling and filling the wagons

-with dust. The latitude at this halt by Elder Pratt's observation

-is 42° 28' 36". At 1:20 we proceeded again, our road running on the

-river banks two miles then turning to the northwest and ascending a

-succession of hills one after another for three miles farther, winding

-around and over hill and valley in some places over a good hard road,

-and in other places over rocks and broken fragments of rock, making it

-severe on wagons and requiring great care in teamsters. About a half

-mile north of the road at the top of this ridge there is a heavy bank

-of snow which some of the brethren went to visit and amused themselves

-by snowballing each other. Brother Carrington says there is every

-appearance of a rich lead mine in the same place, he having examined

-the place minutely. The brethren brought some snow to the wagons and we

-ate some of it which tasted refreshing in the heat of the day. After

-arriving on the top of these ridges we began to descend gradually over

-rolling land, but the descent is not nearly equal to the ascent. At

-the distance of seven and a quarter miles from noon halt, we crossed

-a narrow wet swamp quite difficult for teams to get the loads over

-without help and one and a quarter miles beyond the swamp a creek a

-foot wide and a quarter of a mile farther still another one two feet

-wide. These all unite in one about 200 yards to the left below the

-middle creek and then appear to pass under a snow bank which at present

-forms a kind of bridge over the creek. At 6:45 we formed our encampment

-on the north banks of a creek about five feet wide, having traveled

-this afternoon eleven and a half miles and during the day twenty and a

-quarter. This creek is very clear and cold. Its banks are well lined

-with willows and about a mile below the camp there is a grove of white

-poplar in which house logs may be obtained sixteen feet long and a foot

-through. There are several banks of snow a little to the north and some

-of the brethren have found ice four or five inches thick and brought

-a quantity of it to camp. On the banks of the creek there are some

-groves of gooseberry bushes with small green berries on them. There are

-also some strawberry roots and flowers and a little white clover has

-been found, but there is yet no appearance of the great abundance of

-such things as travelers have represented. The land appears somewhat

-more likely to yield the nearer we approach to the mountains, but all

-calculations for farming in this region would be likely to fail on

-account of the scarcity of timber. It would only be natural to suppose

-that the nights are very cold here, while so much snow lies around. It

-requires considerable clothing to keep comfortable, but in the middle

-of the day it is equally hot. Some of the brethren have traveled up the

-banks of the Sweet Water river and represent it as tumbling and foaming

-over rocks and descending very rapidly on account of the great rise of

-the ground from noon halt to this place. They say it runs within a mile

-and a half south of this but it is probable it is only a branch of it

-as we are evidently not near the main branch yet. There is one of the

-gentile companies camped about a mile below, making the third company

-we have passed lately and it is the intention to keep ahead of them and

-have the advantage of the good feed and camping grounds.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, June 26</h3>

-

-<p>Morning very cold and considerable ice froze in the water pails during

-the night. At 7:40 we crossed the creek and pursued our journey. At one

-mile we passed a small creek which rises from springs a little south

-of the road where there is a small grove of small timber. Elder Pratt

-has gone ahead with the barometer to try to find the culminating point

-or highest dividing ridge of the South Pass as we are evidently at the

-east foot of the pass. Fremont represents that he did not discover the

-highest point on account of the ascent being so gradual that they were

-beyond it before they were aware of it, although in company with a man

-who has traveled it back and forth for seventeen years. At two and

-three-quarters miles beyond the last small creek, we crossed the branch

-of the Sweet Water about two rods wide and two feet deep, the water

-clear and cold. This would be a good camp ground were it not so cold,

-as it must be from the fact that large deep banks of snow are now lying

-on its banks both above and below the road. Where the snow doesn't lie,

-there is good grass and plenty of willow groves for fuel. Two and a

-quarter miles beyond this branch we crossed another stream about eight

-feet wide on an average, though where the ford is, it is nearly three

-rods wide and two feet deep. This water is also very clear and the

-banks well lined with willows and grass. It is considered a superior

-camping ground to the one back. There seem to be a great many antelope

-at the foot of the mountains which is about all the game to be seen.

-After crossing the last stream, we climb another high range of hills

-over a good road, gently rolling. From the top of this is a pleasant

-view of the surrounding country but all entirely destitute of timber

-except on and at the base of the mountains many miles distance from the

-road. We have also a good view of Table Rock to the southwest as well

-as the high, broken, white capped chain of the Wind River mountains on

-the north. At 12:40 we halted on the main branch of the Sweet Water

-having traveled eleven miles. The river here is about three rods wide,

-three feet deep and current very swift. The water is clear and cold as

-the snow which lies on its banks in places six or eight feet deep. This

-is a lovely place for a camp ground, there being abundance of good,

-rich grass about eight inches high and plenty of willows for fuel.

-Some of the boys and girls amused themselves by snowballing each other

-on one of the large snow banks a few rods below the camp. Soon after

-we halted Eric Glines came up, having left the brethren at the upper

-ferry on the Platte River on Wednesday morning. He camped one night

-alone, the other nights he camped with Missourians. He does not assign

-any reason why he followed us, but evidently considering to repent and

-obey council than to continue obstinate and rebellious. The weather is

-now warm and pleasant and but little wind. At 2:20 we moved onward,

-ascending again on pretty high land where we found good traveling. The

-latitude at our noon halt was 42° 22' 42". After traveling seven miles

-this afternoon we arrived on a level spot of lower land and some grass,

-and inasmuch as we have found no stream as laid down on Fremont's map

-since leaving the Sweet Water, neither is there much appearance of any

-for some miles farther, the wagons halted while President Young and

-some others went over the ridge to the north to look for a camp ground

-as some of the brethren said the Sweet Water was close by. President

-Young soon sent a message for the camp to proceed, leaving the road

-and taking a northwest course. At 6:45 we formed our encampment on the

-banks of the Sweet Water, at the distance of a little over a quarter

-of a mile from the road, having traveled this afternoon seven and a

-quarter miles, and during the day eighteen and a quarter. This is a

-good place to camp, there being plenty of grass and willows. There

-are many small pebbles of hard flint rock on the flat land a little

-back and some almost as clear as glass. Elders Kimball, Pratt and

-some others are some miles ahead and not having returned at dark, a

-number of the brethren were sent to meet them. They soon returned in

-company with Elder Kimball who reported that he had been on as much as

-six miles to where the head waters of the Atlantic divide from those

-of the Pacific--that Elder Pratt was camped there with a small

-party of men direct from Oregon and bound for the U. S. It is now

-a certainty that we are yet two miles short of the dividing ridge of

-the South Pass by the road. This ridge divides the headwaters of the

-Atlantic from those of the Pacific and although not the highest land

-we have traveled over, it may with propriety be said to be the summit

-of the South Pass. The Wind River mountains appear very high from this

-place but on the south there is very little appearance of mountains,

-Table Rock itself appearing but a little elevated.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, June 27</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine but cold. The ox teams started at five minutes to eight

-and the remainder shortly after. We soon met eight of the Oregon men

-on their way back having over twenty horses and mules with them mostly

-laden with packs of robes, skins, etc. Several of the brethren sent

-letters back by them. At two and three-quarters miles, arrived at the

-dividing ridge where Elder Pratt took a barometrical observation and

-found the altitude 7,085 feet above the level of the sea. This spot

-is 278½ miles from Fort John and is supposed to divide the Oregon

-and Indian Territory by a line running north and south. At two miles

-farther we arrived at where Elder Pratt camped last night on the head

-waters of the Green River and although the stream is small, we have

-the satisfaction of seeing the current run west instead of east. The

-face of the country west looks level except far in the distance where

-a range of mountains peers up, their surface white with snow. There

-is good grass here but no timber nor in fact any in sight except on

-the mountains. Since leaving the pass we have descended considerably,

-winding around and between high bluffs or hills, but the road is good.

-One of the Oregon men is returning with us today and then intends to

-wait for the next companies, etc., and act as a pilot for them. His

-name is Harris and he appears to be extensively known in Oregon and

-the subject of much dispute on account of his having found out a new

-route to Oregon much south of the old one. He appears to be a man of

-intelligence and well acquainted with the western country. He presented

-a file of the Oregon papers commencing with February 11, 1847, and five

-following numbers for our perusal during the day. He also presented

-a number of the California Star published at Yerba Buena by Samuel

-Brannan and edited by E. P. Jones. I had the privilege of perusing

-several of these papers during the day but found little interesting

-news. Mr. Harris says he is well acquainted with the Bear River valley

-and the region around the salt lake. From his description, which is

-very discouraging, we have little chance to hope for even a moderately

-good country anywhere in those regions. He speaks of the whole region

-as being sandy and destitute of timber and vegetation except the wild

-sage. He gives the most favorable account of a small region under the

-Bear River mountains called the Cache Valley where they have practiced

-caching their robes, etc., to hide them from the Indians. He represents

-this as being a fine place to winter cattle. After halting some time

-we proceeded onward and crossed the stream which is about three feet

-wide, then halted on its banks at twelve o'clock, having traveled six

-and a quarter miles, the day warm. The latitude at this halt was 42°

-18' 58". At 2:25 we started again and proceeded over gently rolling

-land and good hard road till 6:40 when we formed our encampment on the

-west banks of the Dry Sandy, having traveled this afternoon nine miles

-and during the day fifteen and a quarter. The country west for many

-miles appears destitute of timber and the view is very extensive. There

-is very little grass to be seen anywhere and not much near this creek.

-There is but little water in the creek at first sight, but by digging

-and tramping on the quick sand, sufficient can easily be obtained to

-supply a large company. Elder Kimball has been on the road nearly two

-miles farther but discovered no chance for a camping ground better

-than this. Mr. Harris has described a valley forty miles above the

-mouth of the Bear River, and thirty miles below the Bear Springs which

-might answer our purpose pretty well if the report is true. It is about

-thirty miles long and fifteen miles wide and tolerably well timbered.

-We generally feel that we shall know best by going ourselves for the

-reports of travelers are so contradictory it is impossible to know

-which is the truth without going to prove it. It is three years today

-since our brethren Joseph and Hyrum were taken from us and it was the

-general feeling to spend the day in fasting and prayer but the gentile

-companies being close in our rear and feed scarce, it was considered

-necessary to keep ahead of them for the benefit of our teams, but many

-minds have reverted back to the scenes at Carthage jail, and it is a

-gratification that we have so far prospered in our endeavors to get

-from under the grasp of our enemies.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, June 28</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine but cool. Many of the brethren are trading with Mr. Harris

-for pants, jackets, shirts, etc., made of buckskins and also the skins

-themselves. He sells them high. The skins at $1.50 and $2.00; a pair

-of pants $3.00, etc. He will take rifles, powder, lead, caps or calico

-and domestic shirts in exchange but puts his own price on both sides

-and it is difficult to obtain even a fair trade. At half past seven we

-proceeded on our journey, Mr. Harris waiting for the other companies.

-After traveling six miles the road forks, one continuing a west course,

-the other taking a southwest course. We took the left hand road which

-leads to California. This junction of the road is 297½ miles from Fort

-John. We then continued to travel over a desert land yielding nothing

-but wild sage and occasionally a grass root and weeds until 1:30 when

-we arrived and halted for noon on the banks of the Little Sandy,

-having traveled thirteen and a half miles without signs of wood, water

-or feed for our teams. This stream is about twenty feet wide on an

-average but at the fording place over three rods, two and a half feet

-deep, muddy water and swift current. There is not much grass and no

-timber except willow bushes. There is a variety of roots bearing very

-handsome colored flowers. One of the brethren has picked up a large

-piece of petrified wood. It resembles the outside layer of a cottonwood

-tree next to the bark, and appears to have rotted and broken off short

-then petrified and turned to a solid, heavy, hard, flint stone, but

-retaining its original shape and appearance. At 4:15 we commenced

-fording the river and found it in no way difficult until a number of

-the wagons had gotten over and the banks began to be soft and muddy.

-Several of the latter teams required help. At 4:45 all were safely

-over with no loss except two tar buckets considered to be of no worth.

-We then proceeded on, expecting to go about eight miles farther, but

-after traveling a little over a mile we were met by Elder G. A.

-Smith who introduced us to Mr. Bridger of Bridger's Fort on his way to

-Fort John in company with two of his men. Mr. Bridger being informed

-that we had designed to call at his place to make some inquiries

-about the country, etc., he said if we would turn off the road here

-and camp, he would stay with us till morning. A camping place being

-selected we turned off from the road about a quarter of a mile and

-formed our encampment near the Sandy at six o'clock, having traveled

-this afternoon one and three-quarters miles, exclusive of allowance

-for leaving the road, and during the day fifteen and a quarter miles.

-We have pretty good feed here, enough to fill the teams well. A while

-after we camped, the twelve and several others went to Mr. Bridger to

-make some inquiries concerning our future route, the country, etc. It

-was impossible to form a correct idea of either from the very imperfect

-and irregular way he gave his descriptions, but the general items are

-in substance as follows:</p>

-

-<p>We will find better grass as we proceed farther on. His business is to

-Fort Laramie. His traders have gone there with robes, skins, etc., to

-fill a contract, but having started later than they intended the men at

-Laramie have taken advantage of the delay and he is going to see to the

-business himself. There is no blacksmith shop at his fort at present.

-There was one but it was destroyed. There have been nearly a hundred

-wagons gone on the Hastings route through Weber's Fork. They cross the

-Blacks Fork and go a little south of west from his place and pass below

-the mountains which cross Green river. The Green river runs over an

-extent of country of 400 miles. It is impossible for wagons to follow

-down Green river, neither can it be followed with boats. Some have gone

-down with canoes, but had great difficulty getting back on account of

-the rapid current and rough channel. Cannot pass the mountains close

-to the river even with horses. For some distance beyond this chain of

-mountains, the country is level and beyond that it is hard black rock

-which looks as if it were glazed when the sun shines on it, and so

-hard and sharp it will cut a horse's feet to pieces. When we get below

-the mountains, the Green River falls into a level country for some

-distance after which it winds through a mountainous country perfectly

-barren to the Gulf of California. From Bridger's fort to the salt lake,

-Hastings said was about one hundred miles. He has been through fifty

-times but can form no correct idea of the distance. Mr. Hastings' route

-leaves the Oregon route at his place. We can pass the mountains farther

-south, but in some places we would meet with heavy bodies of timber

-and would have to cut our way through. In the Bear River valley there

-is oak timber, sugar trees, cottonwood, pine and maple. There is not

-an abundance of sugar maple but plenty of as splendid pine as he ever

-saw. There is no timber on the Utah Lake only on the streams which

-empty into it. In the outlet of the Utah Lake which runs into the salt

-lake there is an abundance of blue grass and red and white clover. The

-outlet of the Utah Lake does not form a large river, neither a rapid

-current but the water is muddy and low banks. Some of his men have been

-around the salt lake in canoes. They went out hunting and had their

-horses stolen by the Indians. They then went around the lake in canoes

-hunting beaver and were three months going around it. They said it

-was 550 miles around it. The Utah tribe of Indians inhabit the region

-around the Utah Lake and are a bad people. If they catch a man alone

-they are sure to rob and abuse him if they don't kill him, but parties

-of men are in no danger. They are mostly armed with guns. There was

-a man opened a farm in the Bear River valley. The soil is good and

-likely to produce corn were it not for the excessive cold nights which

-he thinks would prevent the growth of corn. There is a good country

-south of the Utah Lake or southeast of the great basin. There are three

-large rivers which enter into the Sevier Lake unknown to travelers.

-There is also a splendid range of country on the north side of the

-California mountains calculated to produce every kind of grain and

-fruit and there are several places where a man might pass from it over

-the mountains to the California settlements in one day. There is a vast

-abundance of timber and plenty of coal. There is also plenty of coal

-in this region near the mountains. North of the California mountains

-there is walnut, oak, ash, hickory, and various kinds of good timber on

-and in the neighborhood of the mountains and streams southeast of the

-great basin. There can be a wagon road made through to it and no lack

-of water. The great desert extends from the salt lake to the Gulf of

-California which is perfectly barren. He supposes it to have been an

-arm of the sea. The three rivers before mentioned are southwest of the

-desert. There is a tribe of Indians in that country who are unknown to

-either travelers or geographers. They make farms and raise abundance

-of grain of various kinds. He can buy any quantity of the very best of

-wheat there. This country lies southeast of the salt lake. There is one

-mountain in that region and the country adjoining in which he considers

-if ever there was a promised land, that must be it. There is a kind of

-cedar grows on it which bears fruit something like juniper berries of

-a yellow color about the size of an ordinary plum. The Indians grind

-the fruit and it makes the best kind of meal. He could easily gather a

-hundred bushels off one tree. He has lived on this fruit and used to

-pick his hat full in a very short time. There are a great many little

-streams head in this mountain and many good springs. It is about twenty

-days' travel with horses from the salt lake, but the country to it is

-bad to get through and over a great part of it, nothing for animals to

-subsist on. He supposes there might be access to it from Texas. On one

-of the rivers there is a splendid copper mine, a whole mountain of it.

-It also abounds in gold, silver and has a good quick silver mine. There

-is iron, coal, etc. The land is good; the soil rich. All the valleys

-abound with persimmons and grapes which will make the best kind of

-wines. He never saw any grapes on the Utah Lake, but there are plenty

-of cherries and berries of several kinds. He thinks the Utah Lake is

-the best country in the vicinity of the Salt Lake and the country is

-still better the farther south we go until we meet the desert which

-is upwards of 200 miles south from the Utah Lake. There is plenty of

-timber on all the streams and mountains and abundance of fish in the

-streams. There is timber all around the Utah Lake and plenty of good

-grass; not much of the wild sage only in small patches. Wild flax

-grows in most of the valleys and they are the richest lands. He passed

-through that country a year ago last summer in the month of July, and

-they generally had one or two showers every day, sometimes a very

-heavy thunder shower but not accompanied by strong wind. By following

-under the mountain south of the Utah Lake we find another river which

-enters into another lake about fifty miles south of the Utah Lake. We

-shall find plenty of water from here to Bridger's Fort except after

-we cross Green River and travel five miles beyond it where we shall

-have to travel eighteen or twenty miles without water, but there is

-plenty of grass. After crossing Green River we follow down it four or

-five miles to the old station then cross over to a stream which heads

-in the mountains west. The station is more than half way from here to

-his place. We shall have no streams to ferry between here and the fort

-except Green River. The Indians south of the Utah Lake and this side

-the desert raise corn, wheat and other kinds of grain and produce in

-abundance. The Utah's abound more on the west of the mountains near the

-salt lake than on the east side, ten to one, but we have no need to

-fear them for we can drive the whole of them in twenty-four hours but

-he would not kill them, he would make slaves of them. The Indians south

-of the Utah Lake raise as good corn, wheat, and pumpkins as were ever

-raised in old Kentucky. He knows of a lead mine between the mountains

-and Laramie on a timbered creek near the Horseshoe creek. He has found

-lead there and thinks there is considerable silver in it. It can be

-found in a cave on the side of the mountain not far from the road.</p>

-

-<p>Such was the information we obtained from Mr. Bridger, but we shall

-know more about things and have a better understanding when we have

-seen the country ourselves. Supper had been provided for Mr. Bridger

-and his men and the latter having eaten, the council dismissed, Mr.

-Bridger going with President Young to supper, the remainder retiring to

-their wagons conversing over the subject touched upon. The evening was

-very fine but mosquitoes numerous.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, June 29</h3>

-

-<p>Morning very pleasant till the sun got up a little, then it was very

-hot. We started at 7:40 and traveled over very good roads through

-barren land till 10:45 then halted for noon on the banks of the Big

-Sandy, having traveled six and three-quarters miles. The second

-division have passed over the river but the first division halted on

-the north side. This stream appears to be about seven rods wide at this

-place and about two feet deep in the channel, but it is not generally

-so wide, but deeper. There is some timber on its banks and plenty

-of grass in places for teams. At 1:30 we again proceeded, President

-Young and some others going ahead in the cutter wagon to look out a

-camp ground for the night. Our course still lies about southwest, the

-road generally good over gently rolling, hard, sandy land and in some

-places the surface is covered with loose fragments of hard rock. After

-traveling nine and a half miles President Young rode up and reported

-that we would have to go at least six miles farther before we could

-get feed. It was then a quarter after six, but the teamsters spurred

-up in order to get through. Most of the road after this for four miles

-was very hilly and uneven and in places the loose fragments of rocks

-made it very bad traveling, but many were thrown from the road by the

-spare men. The weather grew cooler towards evening, some large clouds

-rising in the west which favored the teams considerably. At 9:05 we

-found ourselves on the lowlands on the banks of the river again and

-formed our encampment, having traveled since noon seventeen miles and

-during the day twenty-three and three-quarters, which is the greatest

-day's journey we have made since leaving Winter Quarters. The camp was

-formed by moonlight. There seems to be plenty of feed for teams but

-no wood for fuel. Many of the brethren have gone down sick within the

-past three days and a number more this evening. They generally begin

-with headache, succeeded by violent fever, and some go delirious for

-a while. Brother Fowler was seized this afternoon and this evening is

-raving. It is supposed by some that this sickness is caused by the use

-of the mineral saleratus or alkali picked up on the lakes and surface

-of the land and it is considered poisonous. Some consider also that we

-inhale the effluvium arising from it, which has the like effect. It

-appears to be an article which ought to be used with great care if used

-at all. There has been no case considered dangerous yet, nor any of

-long duration.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, June 30</h3>

-

-<p>Morning hot. We resumed our journey at 8:15, several others of the

-brethren being reported sick. President Young, Kimball and others rode

-ahead again. We found the roads very good but sandy and filling the

-wagons with dust. At 11:30 we arrived on the banks of Green River,

-having traveled eight miles and formed our encampment in a line under

-the shade of the cottonwood timber. This river is about sixteen to

-eighteen rods wide and altogether too deep to be forded. Its banks

-are well lined with cottonwood but none large enough to make a canoe.

-There are also many patches of wild apple trees, and rose bushes

-abound bearing pretty roses. This river is 338½ miles from Fort John

-or Laramie. There is a narrow strip of land which might answer for

-farming on each bank of the river. The grass grows good and plentiful

-but still not so much as has been represented. After dinner the

-brethren commenced making two rafts, one for each division, and a while

-afterwards Elder Samuel Brannan arrived, having come from the Pacific

-to meet us, obtain council, etc. He is accompanied by Smith of the

-firm of Jackson Heaton &amp; Bonney, bogus snakers of Nauvoo. There

-is another young man in company with them. They have come by way of

-Fort Hall and brought with them several files of the California Star.

-They had eleven deaths on board their ship during their voyage over,

-the others I understand are doing well, raising grain, etc. Towards

-evening a storm blew up from the west and although we had no rain we

-had tremendous wind. The first division finished their raft before

-dark. There is a slough a little down the river where some of the

-brethren have caught some very nice fish, but the mosquitoes are so

-very troublesome it is difficult abiding out of doors.</p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-13>July 1847</h2>

-

-<h3>Thursday, July 1</h3>

-

-<p>This morning found myself laboring under a severe attack of the fever,

-accompanied with violent aching in my head and limbs. The brethren

-commenced ferrying but got only fourteen wagons over on account of the

-very high wind.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, July 2</h3>

-

-<p>The day was more pleasant and the ferrying continued more rapidly. I

-got over the river before noon but remained very sick. Afternoon the

-twelve had a council and decided to send three or four men back to

-serve as guides to the next company.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, July 3</h3>

-

-<p>The morning more unfavorable. The brethren got the last wagon over

-before noon, no accident having happened, and about the time they

-finished it commenced raining, accompanied by thunder and wind. It was

-concluded for some of the brethren to go on and look out a camp ground

-a few miles ahead so as to shorten the distance of the next day's

-travel. The brethren returned about noon and gave orders to harness up

-and proceed, and at 3:15 we moved forward and went on three miles, then

-formed encampment in the midst of an army of mosquitoes. These insects

-are more numerous here than I ever saw them anywhere, everything was

-covered with them, making the teams restive in the wagons. There

-is plenty of grass for teams and it is the intention to tarry here

-till Monday morning. At night President Young gave the brethren some

-instructions about trading at Fort Bridger and advised them to be wise,

-etc. Five men were selected to go back and meet the next company, viz.,

-Phineas Young, George Woodard, Aaron Farr, Eric Glines and Rodney

-Badger. They are to take the cutter wagon instead of each taking a

-horse which cannot be spared by the camp.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, July 4</h3>

-

-<p>The morning fine and warm. The five brethren have started back to meet

-the other company. President Young, Kimball and others went back with

-them to ferry them over Green River. Some of the brethren assembled

-for meeting in the circle. At 2:30 p.m. the brethren returned from the

-ferry accompanied by twelve of the Pueblo brethren from the army. They

-have got their discharge and by riding hard overtaken us. They feel

-well and on arriving in camp gave three cheers, after which President

-Young moved that we give glory to God which was done by hosannas.

-William Walker was with them but has gone back with the five brethren

-to meet his wife. The spot where we are now camped is opposite to

-the junction of the Big Sandy and Green River. On the other side the

-river there is a range of singular sandy buttes perfectly destitute

-of vegetation, and on the sides can be seen from here, two caves

-which are probably inhabited by wild bears. The view is pleasant and

-interesting. During the afternoon one of Brother Crow's oxen was found

-to be poisoned through eating some kind of a weed and was much swollen.

-I understand it was dead when they found it.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, July 5</h3>

-

-<p>At eight o'clock we pursued our journey, many of the brethren still

-being sick though generally improving. After traveling three and a

-half miles on the bank of the river the road then leaves it bending

-westward. We have now a very pleasant view of the Bear River mountains

-far to the southwest, their summits capped with snow. We found the land

-somewhat rolling, destitute of grass and several very steep places of

-descent. At 4:45 we arrived on the banks of Blacks Fork and formed

-our encampment, having traveled twenty miles, the last sixteen and a

-half without sight of water. This stream is about six rods wide, very

-swift current but not deep. The bottoms on each side are very pleasant

-but not much grass for teams. There is one place in the road where we

-might have saved a crook of nearly a mile by digging down bank which

-would probably have detained us about twenty minutes, but it was not

-discovered till most of the wagons had passed over.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, July 6</h3>

-

-<p>Morning very pleasant. We started on our journey at 7:50 and after

-traveling three and three-quarters miles, crossed Hams Fork, a rapid

-stream about three rods wide and two feet deep; and this would be a

-good place to camp, there being an abundance of high bunch grass on

-the banks. One and a half miles farther we crossed Blacks Fork which

-appears to be about eight rods wide and two and a half feet deep, but

-little grass near it. We then leave the river and wind over uneven

-road with many pitches caused by heavy rains washing the land, which

-is generally barren. After traveling eleven miles beyond the last

-stream, crossed a small creek about two feet wide but no grass. At four

-o'clock we crossed back over Blacks Fork and formed our encampment on

-its banks, having traveled eighteen and a quarter miles. At this place

-there is a fine specimen of the wild flax which grows all around. It

-is considered equal to any cultivated, bears a delicate blue flower.

-There is also an abundance of the rich bunch grass in the neighborhood

-of the river back and many wild currants. The prairies are lined with

-beautiful flowers of various colors--chiefly blue, red and yellow,

-which have a rich appearance and would serve to adorn and beautify an

-eastern flower garden.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, July 7</h3>

-

-<p>This morning we proceeded at 7:35 and after traveling two and a half

-miles, forded Black's Fork once more. Here also is abundance of

-good grass, wild flax and handsome flowers. After traveling two and

-three-quarters miles farther, forded a stream about two rods wide and

-two feet deep, very swift current, also lined on its banks with bunch

-grass. At twelve o'clock we halted for noon on the banks of the last

-stream, having traveled nine miles over pretty rough road. The day

-very windy and filling the wagons with dust. Some of the wagons have

-gone on expecting to reach Bridger's Fort before they halt. At 1:40

-we moved forward and found the road more even, though in many places

-rendered bad by the cobble stones. After traveling seven and a half

-miles we arrived opposite to nine Indian lodges erected on the south

-of the road. Here we halted a while and found Tim Goodale here, one

-of the trappers who passed us at the Platte ferry. There are not many

-Indians here but they appear to have a great many handsome ponies. We

-then continued on and after fording four creeks on an average about a

-rod wide, we arrived at Fort Bridger which is proved by the roadometer

-to be 397 miles from Fort John. We went half a mile beyond the fort

-and formed our encampment after crossing three more creeks, having

-traveled this afternoon eight and three-quarters miles and during the

-day seventeen and three-quarters. The grass is very plentiful in this

-neighborhood and much higher than we have generally seen it. The whole

-region seems filled with rapid streams all bending their way to the

-principal fork. They doubtless originate from the melting of the snow

-on the mountains and roar down their cobbly beds till they join Black's

-Fork. Bridger's Fort is composed of two double log houses about forty

-feet long each and joined by a pen for horses about ten feet high

-constructed by placing poles upright in the ground close together,

-which is all the appearance of a fort in sight. There are several

-Indian lodges close by and a full crop of young children playing around

-the door. These Indians are said to be of the Snake tribe, the Utahs

-inhabiting beyond the mountains. The latitude of Fort Bridget is 41°

-19' 13" and its height above the level of the sea according to Elder

-Pratt's observations is 6,665 feet. It is doubtless a very cold region

-and little calculated for farming purposes. To the west is a pretty

-high mountain which appears well covered with timber. The country all

-around looks bleak and cold.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, July 8</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine but high wind. It is concluded to stay a day here to

-set some wagon tires, etc. Many have gone to trade their rifles and

-some clothing for buckskins. H. Egan traded two rifles and got twenty

-pretty good skins for them. The day continued warm with high wind.

-Evening there was a council and some complaints listened to from George

-Mills against Andrew Gibbons. It was decided for Thomas Williams and

-S. Brannan to return from here and meet Captain Brown's company from

-Pueblo. Inasmuch as the brethren have not received their discharge nor

-their paw from the United States, Brother Brannan goes to tender his

-services as pilot to conduct a company of fifteen or twenty to San

-Francisco if they feel disposed to go there and try to get their pay.

-Williams came clothed with authority to arrest Tim Goodale or one of

-his men for stealing a horse at Pueblo, but he can get no encouragement

-from President Young to make the attempt.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, July 9</h3>

-

-<p>We started at eight o'clock, the brethren who go back bidding good

-bye to the camp and proceeding on their back journey while we moved

-westward over pretty rough roads. After traveling six and a quarter

-miles, we arrived at the springs and halted a while to rest our teams.

-We then proceeded on three-quarters of a mile and began to ascend

-a long steep hill, near the top of which and eight miles from Fort

-Bridger, Elder Pratt took an observation and found the latitude 41° 16'

-11". Arriving on the top we found the table tolerably level for several

-miles then began to descend to the bottom again. The descent from this

-hill is the steepest and most difficult we have ever met with, being

-long and almost perpendicular. At three o'clock we crossed the Muddy

-Fork, a stream about twelve feet wide, and formed our encampment on the

-west bank, having traveled since the halt six and three-quarters miles

-and during the day thirteen. Here is plenty of tall bunch grass and

-a pretty good chance for our teams. The day has been windy, warm and

-dusty.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, July 10</h3>

-

-<p>Started this morning at eight o'clock, weather warm with tolerably

-high wind. After traveling three and a half miles we passed a small

-copperas spring at the foot of a mountain a little to the left of

-the road. The water is very clear but tastes very strong of copperas

-and alum and has a somewhat singular effect on the mouth. It runs a

-little distance over the red sand which abounds in this region and

-where it is saturated with water almost looks like blood at a little

-distance. After passing this spring the road winds around the foot of

-mountains gradually ascending for some distance till finally arriving

-on the summit of a high ridge. Here Elder Pratt took a barometrical

-observation and found the height to be 7,315 feet above the level of

-the sea. On arriving at the west side of the ridge two and a half miles

-from the last mentioned spring we found a very steep, rough place to

-descend and found it necessary to halt and fix the road. About half

-way down there is a place over huge rocks, leaving barely enough room

-for a wagon to get down, but by labor it was soon made passable. A

-little farther, the brethren had to dig a place considerably to make a

-pass between the mountains. President Young and Kimball labored hard

-with a number of others and in about a half an hour made a good road.

-At twenty miles from Fort Bridger, passed another spring and a little

-farther after arriving on the bottom land, the road turns nearly south

-through a beautiful low bottom filled with grass. At 1:45 we halted

-for noon, having traveled nine miles. Latitude 41° 14' 21". After

-halting an hour and a half we proceeded again and after traveling

-three and a half miles began to ascend the dividing ridge between the

-Colorado waters and the great basin. This mountain is very high and

-the ascent steep, rendering it necessary to make a crooked road to

-gain the summit. The height is 7,700 feet according to Elder Pratt's

-observations. The surface at the top is narrow. Here three bears were

-seen to run over a still higher mountain on the left. The descent was

-very steep, having to lock the wagons for half a mile. We then descend

-and travel on the bottom a few miles between high rugged mountains

-till the road seems suddenly to be shut up by a high mountain ahead.

-The road here turns suddenly to the left and goes east about 200 yards

-then winds again southwest. After ascending and descending another high

-ridge, we crossed a small creek about ten feet wide and at 7:45 formed

-our encampment on the southwest banks, having traveled this afternoon

-nine miles and during the day eighteen over the most mountainous course

-we have yet seen. After camping, Mr. Miles Goodyear came into camp. He

-is the man who is making a farm in the Bear River valley. He says it

-is yet seventy-five miles to his place, although we are now within two

-miles of Bear River. His report of the valley is more favorable than

-some we have heard but we have an idea he is anxious to have us make

-a road to his place through selfish motives. Elder Pratt has found a

-beautiful spring of clear, sweet, cold water about a hundred yards

-southwest from the camp. Water excellent.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, July 11</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine with ice a quarter of an inch thick on the water pails.

-Walked on the mountain east with President Young and Kimball, from

-whence we had a pleasing view of the surrounding valley which is

-about ten miles wide. Abundance of timber on the mountains south

-and southwest and beyond that plenty of snow. After having prayers,

-we again descended and at the foot discovered a very strong sulphur

-spring. The surface of the water is covered with flour of sulphur and

-where it oozes from the rocks is perfectly black. The water in the

-creek shows sulphur very clearly and smells bad. During the day some of

-the brethren discovered an oil spring about a mile south. The substance

-which rises out of the ground resembles tar and is very oily. Some

-have oiled their gun stocks with it and oiled their shoes, others have

-gone to fill their tar buckets and are sanguine it will answer well to

-grease wagons. It is somewhat singular to find such a great contrast

-of substances within so short a distance. Here is pure water, sulphur,

-and oily tar within a mile of each other, and matter of curiosity all

-around for the contemplation of the curious. Porter, Brother Little

-and others have been out with Goodyear to view the route he wishes us

-to take. They represent it as being bad enough, but we are satisfied

-it leads too far out of our course to be tempted to try it. There are

-some in camp who are getting discouraged about the looks of the country

-but thinking minds are not much disappointed, and we have no doubt of

-finding a place where the Saints can live which is all we ought to

-ask or expect. It is evident the country grows better as we proceed

-west, and vegetation is more plentiful and looks richer. After dark, a

-meeting was called to decide which of the two roads we shall take from

-here. It was voted to take the right hand or northern road, but the

-private feelings of all the twelve were that the other would be better.

-But such matters are left to the choice of the camp so that none may

-have room to murmur at the twelve hereafter.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, July 12</h3>

-

-<p>Morning cloudy and cool. We pursued our journey at 7:15. At one and a

-quarter miles rose a very steep, low hill, narrow but very steep on

-both sides. One half a mile farther crossed the Bear River, a very

-rapid stream about six rods wide and two feet deep, bottom full of

-large cobble stones, water clear, banks lined with willows and a little

-timber, good grass, many strawberry vines and the soil looks pretty

-good. About a half a mile beyond the ford, proceeded over another ridge

-and again descended into and traveled up a beautiful narrow bottom

-covered with grass and fertile but no timber. Four and three-quarters

-of a mile beyond Bear River, passed a small spring of good clear

-cold water. At 11:50 halted for noon in the same narrow bottom near

-a ridge of high, rough rocks to the right, having traveled nine and

-three-quarters miles. There is scarcely any wagon track to be seen,

-only a few wagons of Hasting's company having come this route; the

-balance went the other road and many of them perished in the snow; it

-being late in the season and much time was lost quarreling who would

-improve the roads, etc. There is a creek of clear water close by, deep

-but scarcely any current. President Young was taken very sick awhile

-before we halted. After resting two hours the camp moved on again,

-except President Young and Kimball's wagons, who concluded to remain

-there today on account of the President's sickness. After traveling one

-and a half miles we crossed the creek at the foot of a high mountain

-and a little farther crossed back again. A mile farther, began to

-ascend a long steep hill, narrow on the summit and steep descent. We

-then wound around between high hills till arriving again on a narrow

-rich bottom. At the foot of the hill we crossed last, there is a spring

-of very good cold water, and in fact, there are many good springs all

-along the road. At six o'clock we formed our encampment near a very

-small creek and a good spring, having traveled this afternoon six and

-three-quarters miles and during the day sixteen and a half. There is an

-abundance of grass here and the country appears to grow still richer as

-we proceed west, but very mountainous. There are many antelope on these

-mountains and the country is lovely enough but destitute of timber.

-About a quarter of a mile west from the camp is a cave in the rock

-about thirty feet long, fifteen feet wide and from four to six feet

-high. There are many martins at the entrance and on observing closely,

-can be seen myriads of small bugs. It is supposed from appearances that

-there is some property cached in the cave. Soon after we camped, we had

-a light shower accompanied by thunder. This country evidently lacks

-rain, even the grass appears parched.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, July 13</h3>

-

-<p>Awhile before noon, Elder Kimball and Howard Egan arrived from the

-company back. A meeting was called but suddenly dispersed by a thunder

-shower. After the rain ceased, Elder Kimball proposed that a company

-start from the camp with Elder Pratt to proceed to the Weber River

-canyon and ascertain if we can pass through safely, if not, to try and

-find a pass over the mountains. He reported that President Young is a

-little better this morning, but last evening was insensible and raving.

-Colonel Rockwood is also very sick and quite deranged. A company of

-twenty-two wagons, mostly ox teams, started on soon after dinner, in

-company with Elder Pratt, and soon after, Elders Kimball and Egan

-returned to the back company. The day has been very hot and sultry, and

-mosquitoes are very troublesome.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, July 14</h3>

-

-<p>The day has been very hot, with occasionally a light breeze. Several

-of the brethren have been out hunting, and brought in several antelope

-which appear to abound in this region. Brothers Woodruff and Barnabas

-Adams went back to the other wagons this morning. They returned at

-night and reported that President Young is considerably better, but

-Brother Rockwood remains very sick. There are one or two new cases of

-sickness in our camp, mostly with fever which is very severe on the

-first attack, generally rendering its victims delirious for some hours,

-and then leaving them in a languid, weakly condition. It appears that a

-good dose of pills or medicine is good to break the fever. The patient

-then needs some kind of stimulant to brace his nerves and guard him

-against another attack. I am satisfied that diluted spirits is good in

-this disease after breaking up the fever. At night had a light shower.

-The following is a list of the names of those who are gone on to look

-out and make a road, etc., viz.: Orson Pratt, commander of company,

-O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding, Stephen Markham, Nathaniel

-Fairbanks, Joseph Egbert, John S. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, Robert

-Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, John Crow, Walter H. Crow, Walter Crow, George

-W. Therlkill, James Chesney, Jewis B. Myers, John Brown, Shadrack

-Roundy, Hans C. Hanson, Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, David Powell, Oscar

-Crosby, Hark Lay, Joseph Mathews, Gilbert Summe, Green Flake, John

-S. Gleason, Charles Burke, Norman Taylor, A. P. Chesley, Seth

-Taft, Horace Thornton, Stephen Kelsey, James Stewart, Robert Thomas,

-C. D. Barnham, John S. Eldridge, Elijah Newman, Francis Boggs,

-Levi N. Kendall, David Grant. First division: seven wagons, fifteen

-men; second division: sixteen wagons, twenty-seven men besides Crow's

-family of women and children. Total, twenty-three wagons and forty-two

-men.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, July 15</h3>

-

-<p>Morning pleasant but cloudy. At twelve o'clock President Young, Kimball

-and all the rear wagons arrived, eight in number. The President is much

-better. Brother Rockwood is considerably better. Orders were given for

-this company to harness up, and during the time till we started onward

-at half-past one we had a very refreshing shower. After traveling two

-miles we passed another spring of good water at the foot of a high hill

-a little to the right of the road. At half-past three we formed our

-encampment at the foot of some high red bluffs, having traveled four

-and a half miles, and enjoyed two more pleasant showers. Feed here good

-and a beautiful spring of good, clear, cold water a little to the left

-of the road. The evening fine and pleasant.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, July 16</h3>

-

-<p>This morning we have had two pleasant showers accompanied by pretty

-loud thunder. At 8:45, we proceeded onward, passing through a narrow

-ravine between very high mountains. After traveling one and a quarter

-miles passed a deep ravine, where most of the teams had to double to

-get up. One-half mile farther, crossed the creek and found the crossing

-place very bad. Harvey Pierce broke his wagon reach and bolster. The

-wagon had to be unloaded, but with little delay was soon repaired,

-during which time a number of the brethren fixed a new place to cross

-the creek. After passing this place, following the course of the

-creek, the mountains seem to increase in height, and come so near

-together in some places as to leave merely room enough for a crooked

-road. At half past twelve we halted to feed, having traveled six and

-three-quarters miles and are yet surrounded by high mountains. As we

-halted, O. P. Rockwell came up from Elder Pratt's company. He

-reports that it is about twenty-five or thirty miles to the canyon.

-They have found the road leading over the mountains to avoid the canyon

-and expect to be on top today at noon. The day is pleasant with a nice

-breeze. Grass plentiful and pretty high, but no timber yet, except

-small cedar on the sides of the mountains. Numerous springs of clear

-water all along the base of the mountains. During the halt two of the

-brethren went to the top of the mountain on the north of the camp. They

-looked like babes in size. At 1:40, we proceeded onward and found the

-pass between the mountains growing narrower, until it seemed strange

-that a road could ever have been made through. We crossed creek a

-number of times, and in several places found the crossing difficult.

-After proceeding a few miles, we saw patches of oak shrubbery though

-small in size. In the same place and for several miles there are many

-patches or groves of the wild currant, hop vines, alder and black

-birch. Willows are abundant and high. The currants are yet green and

-taste most like a gooseberry, thick rind and rather bitter. The hops

-are in blossom and seem likely to yield a good crop. The elder-berries,

-which are not very plentiful, are in bloom. In some places we had to

-pass close to the foot of high, perpendicular red mountains of rock

-supposed to be from six hundred to a thousand feet high. At a quarter

-to seven we formed our encampment, having traveled this afternoon nine

-and a half miles, and during the day sixteen and a quarter. We are yet

-enclosed by high mountains on each side, and this is the first good

-camping place we have seen since noon, not for lack of grass or water,

-but on account of the narrow gap between the mountains. Grass is pretty

-plentiful most of the distance and seems to grow higher the farther we

-go west. At this place the grass is about six feet high, and on the

-creek eight or ten feet high. There is one kind of grass which bears

-a head almost like wheat and grows pretty high, some of it six feet.

-There is a very singular echo in this ravine, the rattling of wagons

-resembles carpenters hammering at boards inside the highest rocks. The

-report of a rifle resembles a sharp crack of thunder and echoes from

-rock to rock for some time. The lowing of cattle and braying of mules

-seem to be answered beyond the mountains. Music, especially brass

-instruments, have a very pleasing effect and resemble a person standing

-inside the rock imitating every note. The echo, the high rocks on the

-north, high mountains on the south with the narrow ravine for a road,

-form a scenery at once romantic and more interesting than I have ever

-witnessed. Soon after we camped, I walked up the highest mountain on

-the south. The ascent is so steep that there is scarce a place to be

-found to place the foot flat and firm, and the visitor is every moment,

-if he makes the least slip or stumbles, in danger of being precipitated

-down to the bottom and once overbalanced, there is no possibility of

-stopping himself till he gets to the bottom, in which case he would

-doubtless be dashed to pieces. After resting about half a dozen times I

-arrived at the top and found the ascent equally steep all the way up.

-In many places I had to go on my hands and feet to keep from falling

-backwards. From this mountain I could see the fork of Weber River about

-a mile west of the camp; looking back I could see the road we had come

-for several miles, but in every other direction nothing but ranges of

-mountains still as much higher than the one I was on as it is above the

-creek. The scenery is truly wild and melancholy. After surveying the

-face of the country a little while, I began to descend and found the

-task much more difficult than ascending, but by using great care and

-taking time, I got down without accident a little before dark. Solomon

-Chamberlain broke his forward axle tree about two miles back. A wagon

-was unloaded and sent back to fetch him up. He is yet very sick.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, July 17</h3>

-

-<p>Arose to behold a fine pleasant morning, my health much better. This

-is my thirty-third birthday. My mind naturally reverts back to my

-family and my heart is filled with blessings on their heads more than

-my tongue is able to express. The richest blessings that ever were

-bestowed upon the head of woman or child could not be more than I

-desire for them, whatever be my lot. President Young is reported as

-having had a very sick night. A forge was set up and some repairs done

-to wagons and Brother Chamberlain's repaired also. The cattle and mules

-seem very uneasy and continue lowing and braying all the morning. I

-suppose it is in consequence of the singular echoes, they no doubt

-thinking they are answered by others over the mountains. At 9:40 the

-camp renewed the journey and one mile farther arrived at the Red fork

-of the Weber River. We also seem to have a wide space to travel through

-and now turn to the right in a western course, the ravine having run

-mostly southwest. The distance we have traveled through this narrow

-pass is twenty-three miles. Yesterday was the first day we have been

-out of sight of snow a whole day since we arrived at Fort John. We

-could not see it for the high mountains although surrounded by it. On

-arriving at this stream we see it again on the mountains to the east.

-This stream is about four rods wide, very clear water and apparently

-about three feet deep on an average. Its banks lined with cottonwood

-and birch and also dense patches of brush wood, willows, rose bushes,

-briers, etc. By stepping to the top of a small mound at the bend of

-the road, the mouth of the canyon can be seen very plainly, as also

-the mountains between which we pass to avoid it. The canyon appears

-to be about eight or ten miles west of us. I should judge not over

-that. President Young being so very sick found he could not endure

-to travel farther. Accordingly Elder Kimball and some others went

-to select a camping ground and soon returning reported a place a

-little farther. The camp moved on and formed encampment on the banks

-of the river having traveled two and a half miles, the day very hot

-and mosquitoes plentiful. Several of the brethren have caught some

-fine trout in this stream which appears to have many in it. In the

-afternoon Elders Kimball, Richards, Smith, Benson and others went onto

-a mountain to clothe and pray for President Young who continues very

-sick. On returning they rolled down many large rocks from the top of

-the mountain to witness the velocity of their descent, etc. Some would

-roll over half a mile and frequently break to pieces. John Nixon found

-and brought to camp a very singular kind of thistle which I have never

-seen before nor recollect of ever reading of the like. He found it on

-the low land near the camp and says there are many more like it. It is

-a great curiosity and worthy of description. The stem is about four

-feet long, about six inches wide and a quarter of an inch thick. It is

-formed of a double leaf or case and when broken is hollow, although

-the stem lies close together, perfectly flat. It is ornamented with

-prickles from bottom to top. These leaves are but sparsely scattered

-all along up the stem. The top is a kind of crown and bush formed by

-the same kind of prickly leaves and is about ten inches long by five

-inches broad, forming a very handsome head or crown. But the great

-curiosity of this thistle is a perfect resemblance of a snake coiled

-around the crown as though in the act of guarding it against foes.

-The head of the snake lies on the top of the crown at one end and is

-ornamented by a small bunch of flowers like common thistle flowers on

-the snake's head. At the extremity of the tail is a bunch of small

-burrs covered with prickles something resembling the rattles on a

-rattlesnake's tail. The body of the snake is formed of the same kind of

-substance as the thistle itself and has a very singular appearance. It

-seems that two of the great enemies of mankind have combined, the most

-bitter and destructive guarding the more innocent. The serpent tempted

-the woman causing her to sin, in consequence of which the earth was

-cursed and decreed to produce thorns and thistles, etc., but this is

-the first time I ever saw the snake guard the thistle. In the evening

-Elders Kimball, G. A. Smith and Howard Egan rode down the river

-to visit the canyon. They returned about ten o'clock and said they had

-been eight miles down the river but at that distance did not arrive at

-the canyon and being late they concluded to return to camp.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, July 18</h3>

-

-<p>This morning the camp was called together and addressed by Elder

-Kimball. He reports President Young as being a very sick man. He

-proposed to the brethren that instead of their scattering off, some

-hunting, some fishing, and some climbing mountains, etc., that they

-should meet together and pray and exhort each other that the Lord may

-turn away sickness from our midst and from our President that we may

-proceed on our journey. It was decided to assemble at ten o'clock

-and at the sound of the bugle the brethren met in a small grove of

-shrubbery which they have made for the purpose opposite the wagons.

-During the meeting, Elder Kimball proposed to the brethren that all

-the camp, except President Young's and eight or ten other wagons with

-brethren enough to take care of him, etc., proceed on tomorrow and go

-through, find a good place, begin to plant potatoes, etc., as we have

-little time to spare. The proposition was acceeded to by unanimous vote

-and after a number had expressed their feelings the meeting adjourned

-till two o'clock at which time they again assembled and listened to

-remarks from a number of the brethren. Elder Kimball again gave much

-good instruction and prophesied of good things concerning the camp. The

-bishops broke bread and the sacrament was administered. Good feelings

-seem to prevail and the brethren desire to do right. A number yet

-continue sick, but we expect all will soon recover. The day is very hot

-with very little air moving. Elder Kimball consented for me to go on

-tomorrow with the company that goes ahead.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, July 19</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine and warm, President Young considerably better. At 7:45 we

-started onward leaving President Young and Kimball's wagons and several

-others. We found the road very rough on account of loose rocks and

-cobble stones. After traveling two and a quarter miles, we forded the

-river and found it about eighteen inches deep but proceeded without

-difficulty. Soon after we were over, Elder Snow came up and said the

-camp were requested to halt awhile till Dr. Richards came. One of

-his oxen is missing and he wished to go on. We concluded to move on

-a little to where the road should turn off between the mountains to

-avoid the canyon. Elder Pratt went three miles out of his road and had

-to return again. Three-quarters of a mile from the ford we found the

-place to make the cutoff and there halted awhile. I put a guide board

-up at this place marked as follows: "Pratt's Pass to avoid canyon. To

-Fort Bridger 74¼ miles." Brother Pack, having charge of the company,

-concluded to move on slowly and be making our way up the mountains. We

-accordingly started and after traveling a mile from the forks began to

-ascend and wind around the mountains. We found the road exceedingly

-rough and crooked and very dangerous on wagons. Three and a half miles

-from the forks of the road the brethren made a bridge over a small

-creek over which we crossed having passed a number of springs near the

-road. Two and a quarter miles farther we arrived on the summit of the

-dividing ridge and put a guide board up, "80 miles to Fort Bridger."

-At this place Elders Kimball, Woodruff, G. A. Smith and H. Egan

-rode up to view the road, etc. The descent is not very steep but

-exceedingly dangerous to wagons being mostly on the side hill over

-large cobble stones, causing the wagons to slide very badly. After

-traveling a little way, G. A. Smith's wagon wheels gave way going

-down a steep pitch. The spokes are loose in the hub, and worked about

-so that when the wagon slides they dish inward, etc. At two o'clock, we

-halted beside a small creek to water teams, having traveled ten and a

-half miles over exceedingly rough road. A wagon was unloaded, and sent

-for G. A. Smith's loading which is reported to be two miles back.

-While they were gone, many turned out their teams to graze. At 3:30 the

-men returned with the wagons, putting the loading into several so as

-to proceed and at 3:35 we started forward, the road turning suddenly

-to the right for about three-quarters of a mile and then a southwest

-course again. Here we ascend a very long steep hill for nearly a mile,

-then descend by a very crooked road. I think a better road might be

-made here and this high hill avoided and save a mile's travel. After

-traveling a little over three miles, we crossed a creek about a rod

-wide and eighteen inches deep, pretty steep going down but good going

-out. We went on a little farther and at half past five camped on a

-small spot surrounded by willow bushes full of mosquitoes, having

-traveled this afternoon three and a quarter miles and during the day

-thirteen and three-quarters. The day has been hot and no wind. Teams

-sweat much and it has been a pretty hard day's travel. There is not

-much grass here, but is said to be more plentiful a little farther.

-Several accidents have happened to wagons today but nothing serious

-except Brother G. A. Smith's. Dr. Richards' wagons arrived in camp

-at the same time the rest did. The sick are getting better. In the

-evening the brethren picked up a lot of dry willows and made a coal

-pit to set G. A. Smith's tire before we can leave tomorrow. The

-evening and night were very cold.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, July 20</h3>

-

-<p>This morning fine and warm. The coal pit is burned and Burr Frost set

-Elder Smith's wagon tire and did various other repairs to a number of

-other wagons which took till nearly eleven o'clock, about which time

-the camp started onward. One of Brother Crow's men returned from Elder

-Pratt's company and reported that their camp is about nine miles from

-here. He is hunting stray cattle. He says the road is very rough from

-here and about a mile beyond where they are camped the road begins to

-ascend over a high range of mountains. Elder Pratt has been to the top

-but cannot see the Salt Lake from there. Their company is gone on. I

-walked ahead of the camp nearly four miles and picked many gooseberries

-nearly ripe. They are very plentiful on this bottom. The brethren spent

-much time cutting brush wood and improving the road. After traveling

-four miles, halted about half an hour to water teams and eat dinner.

-The road over which we have traveled is through an uneven gap between

-high mountains and is exceedingly rough and crooked. Not a place to

-be met with scarcely where there would be room to camp for the dense

-willow groves all along the bottom. We then proceeded on and traveled

-over the same kind of rough road till a little after 5:00 p.m. then

-camped on a ridge, having traveled today seven and a quarter miles. The

-last three miles has been the worst road of the two, it being through

-willow bushes over twenty feet high, also rose and gooseberry bushes

-and shaking poplar and birch timber. Although there has been a road

-cut through, it is yet scarcely possible to travel without tearing

-the wagon covers. We have crossed this creek which Elder Pratt names

-Canyon Creek eleven times during the day and the road is one of the

-most crooked I ever saw, many sharp turns in it and the willow stubs

-standing making it very severe on wagons. As we proceed up, the gap

-between the mountains seems to grow still narrower until arriving at

-this place where there is room to camp, but little grass for teams.

-There are many springs along the road but the water is not very good.

-In one place about a mile back there is a very bad swamp where the

-brethren spent some time cutting willows and laying them in to improve

-it. We have got along today without much damage which is somewhat

-favorable for the road is awful. At this place the ground around is

-represented as being swampy and dangerous for cattle. It is reported

-that there is no place to camp beyond this till where Elder Pratt's

-company camped and this is so small they have to huddle the wagons

-together. The soil continues sandy, except in the low moist places

-where it looks black and good. There is some pine occasionally in sight

-on the mountains, but timber here is scarce. We have passed through

-some small patches today where a few house logs might be cut, but this

-is truly a wild looking place.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, July 21</h3>

-

-<p>We started onward at half past six, the morning fine and pleasant.

-We crossed the creek once more and about a half a mile from where we

-camped, the road turns to the right leaving the creek and ascending

-the mountains gradually. Much time was necessarily spent cutting down

-stumps, heaving out rocks and leveling the road. It is an exceedingly

-rough place. There are several springs at the foot of the mountain and

-one a mile from the top which runs above the ground a little distance,

-then sinks under again. The last half mile of the ascent is very steep

-and the nearer the top the steeper it grows. There is considerable

-timber up this gap but mostly destroyed by fire. We saw a prairie

-pheasant while going up and some wild gooseberries. At eleven o'clock,

-the teams began to arrive on the dividing ridge and in less than an

-hour, all were safely up. From this ridge we can see an extensive

-valley to the west but on every other side high mountains, many of

-them white with snow. It seems as though a few hours' travel might

-bring us out from the mountains on good road again. We halted on the

-ridge a little while and then prepared to descend, many locking both

-hind wheels, a precaution not at all unnecessary. We found the road

-down exceedingly steep and rendered dangerous by the many stumps of

-trees left standing in the road. The brethren cut up many of them which

-delayed us much. About a mile down is a bridge formed of small trees

-laid one on another to fill up a deep ravine. It is steep on both sides

-and here Joseph Rooker turned his wagon over, however, without much

-damage. A mile and a half from the top is a spring and small stream of

-very good cold water where we halted to let teams drink. This would

-make a tolerably good camp ground in case of necessity. After this, the

-road is not so steep but is very rough and winds between high hills or

-mountains through willows and brush wood and over soft places, crossing

-the creek a number of times. At four and a half miles from the top of

-the ridge, we arrived at a good spring of cold water, plenty of grass

-and a good place to camp. Our teams have now been in the harness about

-ten hours without eating and the feeling of many was to stay here, but

-some wanted to go on and we continued. Turning suddenly to the right

-a little below this spring we began to ascend another high ridge and

-while ascending some of the teams began to fail. There are a great many

-service berries on this ridge growing on what we supposed to be wild

-apple trees. The berries are good and rich when ripe. The descent from

-this ridge is not nearly so steep as the other one, yet many locked

-both hind wheels. After descending, we found another small creek and

-a very rough road again. At 7:30, we formed our encampment near the

-creek, having traveled fourteen miles in thirteen hours. There is but

-little grass here and a poor chance for cattle. Orson Pratt's company

-are camped a half a mile ahead of us and our camp was formed by Colonel

-Markham. He says they have had many new cases of sickness but mostly

-getting better. The cannon is left back on the other side of the

-mountains. About a mile back from this place there is a small grove of

-sugar maple and considerable other timber along the creek. There are

-also beds of nice green rushes in several places.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, July 22</h3>

-

-<p>This morning is cloudy and some like for rain. We started on at 8:30

-and soon came up with Elder Pratt's company. There were several bad

-places in the road where the brethren spent considerable time fixing

-them. As we near the mouth of the canyon, there is a small grove of

-elder bushes in bloom and considerable oak shrubbery. We named this a

-canyon because of the very high mountains on each side leaving but a

-few rods of a bottom for the creek to pass through and hardly room for

-a road. It is evident that the emigrants who passed this way last year

-must have spent a great deal of time cutting a road through the thickly

-set timber and heavy brush wood. It is reported that they spent sixteen

-days in making a road through from Weber River which is thirty-five

-miles but as the men did not work a quarter of their time much less

-would have sufficed. However, it has taken us over three days after the

-road is made although a great many hours have been spent in improving

-it. In this thick brush wood and around here there are many very large

-rattlesnakes lurking, making it necessary to use caution while passing

-through. After traveling one and three-quarters miles, we found the

-road crossing the creek again to the north side and then ascending up a

-very steep, high hill. It is so very steep as to be almost impossible

-for heavy wagons to ascend and so narrow that the least accident might

-precipitate a wagon down a bank three or four hundred feet, in which

-case it would certainly be dashed to pieces. Colonel Markham and

-another man went over the hill and returned up the canyon to see if

-a road cannot be cut through and avoid this hill. While passing up,

-a bear started near them but soon was out of sight amongst the very

-high grass. Brother Markham says a good road can soon be made down the

-canyon by digging a little and cutting through the bushes some ten or

-fifteen rods. A number of men went to work immediately to make the road

-which will be much better than to attempt crossing the hill and will be

-sooner done.</p>

-

-<p>Agreeable to President Young's instructions, Elder Pratt accompanied by

-George A. Smith, John Brown, Joseph Mathews, John Pack, O.P. Rockwell

-and J. C. Little started on this morning on horses to seek out

-a suitable place to plant some potatoes, turnips, etc., so as to

-preserve the seed at least. While the brethren were cutting the road,

-I followed the old one to the top of the hill and on arriving there

-was much cheered by a handsome view of the Great Salt Lake lying, as I

-should judge, from twenty-five to thirty miles to the west of us; and

-at eleven o'clock I sat down to contemplate and view the surrounding

-scenery. There is an extensive, beautiful, level looking valley from

-here to the lake which I should judge from the numerous deep green

-patches must be fertile and rich. The valley extends to the south

-probably fifty miles where it is again surrounded by high mountains.

-To the southwest across the valley at about twenty to twenty-five

-miles distance is a high mountain, extending from the south end of the

-valley to about opposite this place where it ceases abruptly leaving a

-pleasant view of the dark waters of the lake. Standing on the lake and

-about due west there are two mountains and far in the distance another

-one which I suppose is on the other side the lake, probably from sixty

-to eighty miles distance. To the northwest is another mountain at the

-base of which is a lone ridge of what I should consider to be rock salt

-from its white and shining appearance. The lake does not show at this

-distance a very extensive surface, but its dark blue shade resembling

-the calm sea looks very handsome. The intervening valley appears to

-be well supplied with streams, creeks and lakes, some of the latter

-are evidently salt. There is but little timber in sight anywhere, and

-that is mostly on the banks of creeks and streams of water which is

-about the only objection which could be raised in my estimation to this

-being one of the most beautiful valleys and pleasant places for a home

-for the Saints which could be found. Timber is evidently lacking but

-we have not expected to find a timbered country. There may be timber

-on the mountains which the long distance would render impossible to

-be seen with the naked eye, but the mountains through which we have

-passed have very little on them. In some places may be seen a grove

-of small fir or cedar or pine and in the valleys some cottonwood and

-other small timber. There is doubtless timber in all passes and ravines

-where streams descend from the mountains. There is no prospect for

-building log houses without spending a vast amount of time and labor,

-but we can make Spanish brick and dry them in the sun; or we can build

-lodges as the Pawnee Indians do in their villages. For my own part I

-am happily disappointed in the appearance of the valley of the Salt

-Lake, but if the land be as rich as it has the appearance of being, I

-have no fears but the Saints can live here and do well while we will

-do right. When I commune with my own heart and ask myself whether I

-would choose to dwell here in this wild looking country amongst the

-Saints surrounded by friends, though poor, enjoying the privileges

-and blessings of the everlasting priesthood, with God for our King

-and Father; or dwell amongst the gentiles with all their wealth and

-good things of the earth, to be eternally mobbed, harassed, hunted,

-our best men murdered and every good man's life continually in danger,

-the soft whisper echoes loud and reverberates back in tones of stern

-determination; give me the quiet wilderness and my family to associate

-with, surrounded by the Saints and adieu to the gentile world till God

-says return and avenge you of your enemies. If I had my family with me,

-how happy could I be, for I dread nothing so much as the journey back

-again and when I think of the many dangers from accident which families

-traveling this road are continually liable to and especially this last

-mountain road from Weber River, it makes me almost shudder to think of

-it and I could almost envy those who have got safely through, having

-their families with them, yet they will doubtless have a hard time of

-it the coming winter. Brother Crow's family especially have very little

-bread stuff with them, they say enough to last them two months and they

-are dependent on the success of their hunter for support through the

-winter. This valley appears to be fortified by mountains, except on the

-banks of the lake, on many of which there is still snow lying in large

-quantities. It is certain that good limestone abounds in these ridges

-and it is supposed coal can be found with little labor. From this hill

-I passed down the creek which we named the Last Creek about a mile and

-there saw a bed of bull rushes of the largest kind I ever saw, some

-of them being fifteen feet high and an inch and a half in diameter

-at the bottom. The grass on this creek grows from six to twelve feet

-high and appears very rank. There are some ducks around and sand hill

-cranes. Many signs of deer, antelope, and bears, but not many have been

-seen here. There have been fresh buffalo signs seen a few days' travel

-back, but those animals evidently do not stay in this region unless

-some come to winter. The ground seems literally alive with the very

-large black crickets crawling around up grass and bushes. They look

-loathsome but are said to be excellent for fattening hogs which would

-feed on them voraciously. The bears evidently live mostly on them at

-this season of the year. After spending about four hours' labor the

-brethren succeeded in cutting a pretty good road along the creek and

-the wagons proceeded on, taking near a southwest course. We found the

-last descent even but very rapid all the way. At half past five, we

-formed our encampment on a creek supposed to be Brown's Creek, having

-traveled seven and a quarter miles today. We are now five and a quarter

-miles from the mouth of this canyon making the whole distance of rough

-mountain road from the Weber River to the mouth of the canyon on this

-side a little less than thirty-five miles and decidedly the worst

-piece of road on the whole journey. At this place, the land is black

-and looks rich, sandy enough to make it good to work. The grass grows

-high and thick on the ground and is well mixed with nice green rushes.

-Feed here for our teams is very plentiful and good and the water is

-also good. There are many rattlesnakes of a large size in this valley

-and it is supposed they have dens in the mountains. The land looks dry

-and lacks rain, but the numerous creeks and springs must necessarily

-tend to moisten it much. The grass looks rich and good. A while after

-we camped, Elder Pratt and company returned and reported that they had

-been about fifteen miles north from here and this region is as suitable

-a place to put in our seeds as they have seen. Approaching nearer the

-lake, the land is mostly sunken and many small lakes in it. A few

-miles north of this, is a good spot to break up and plant potatoes,

-sow our seeds, etc. There is a little timber on the creek. From twelve

-to fifteen miles north at the foot of the mountain they saw many hot

-sulphur springs issuing from the rocks, as many as fifty in number.

-One of them, the largest, falls out of the rocks and then forms a pool

-apparently ten feet deep and a rock is in the center. The water of this

-is so hot a person cannot bear his hand in it but a very few seconds.

-It is strong of salt and sulphur and the bottom appears green as though

-it was covered with verdigris. A council was held at the Doctor's wagon

-and it was decided to move early tomorrow to the place designated;

-also, to send two men back to the President and company to report our

-progress, etc., then to commence forthwith and plow and plant about ten

-acres with potatoes this week if possible and thus continue till the

-seed is secured. John Pack and Joseph Mathews were selected to return

-to President Young's company. The evening was fine and pleasant and the

-night feels much warmer than in the ravines of the mountains.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, July 23</h3>

-

-<p>This morning Elders Pack and Mathews started to meet the President and

-at the same time the camp moved on to the final location. We traveled

-two miles and then formed our encampment on the banks of the creek in

-an oblong circle. The grass here appears even richer and thicker on the

-ground than where we left this morning. The soil looks indeed rich,

-black and a little sandy. The grass is about four feet high and very

-thick on the ground and well mixed with rushes. If we stay here three

-weeks and our teams have any rest they will be in good order to return.

-As soon as the camp was formed a meeting was called and the brethren

-addressed by Elder Richards, mostly on the necessity and propriety of

-working faithfully and diligently to get potatoes, turnips, etc., in

-the ground. Elder Pratt reported their mission yesterday and after

-some remarks the meeting was dismissed. At the opening, the brethren

-united in prayer and asked the Lord to send rain on the land, etc. The

-brethren immediately rigged three plows and went to plowing a little

-northeast of the camp; another party went with spades, etc., to make a

-dam on one of the creeks so as to throw the water at pleasure on the

-field, designing to irrigate the land in case rain should not come

-sufficiently. This land is beautifully situated for irrigation, many

-nice streams descending from the mountains which can be turned in every

-direction so as to water any portion of the lands at pleasure. During

-the afternoon, heavy clouds began to collect in the southwest and at

-five o'clock we had a light shower with thunder. We had rains for about

-two hours. The brethren have plowed up considerable land and broken

-several of their plows, but there have been three plows going nearly

-all day. At night, the camp was called together and addressed by Elder

-Richards on a subject which seemed little welcome to many from the way

-it was handled. It was a sermon of ---- from end to end. Some

-felt a little insulted but it all passed off well and jokingly.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, July 24</h3>

-

-<p>The plowing is renewed and many are gone to planting potatoes. There

-is one drag going. Others are still at work on the dams. John Pack and

-Joseph Mathews returned at dark last night and reported the President

-and company a few miles up Last Creek. They have gone back this morning

-to fix two bridges at the mouth of the canyon. The day is fine and hot

-with a nice breeze. At a quarter to twelve, President Young and Kimball

-arrived and the wagons also began to arrive at the same time. The

-President seems much better and the sick generally are getting better.

-Most of the brethren express themselves well; pleased with the place,

-but some complain because there is no timber. There appears to be a

-unanimous agreement in regard to the richness of the soil and there are

-good prospects of sustaining and fattening stock with little trouble.

-The only objection is a lack of timber and rain. The latter God will

-send in its season if the Saints are faithful and I think yesterday was

-a proof that He listens to and answers the prayers of the Saints. We

-can easily irrigate the land at all events which will be an unfailing

-and certain source of water, for the springs are numerous and the water

-appears good. About 5:00 p.m. we were favored with another nice shower

-accompanied by thunder and some wind. It continued raining till nearly

-dark; the balance of the evening fine. Elder Kimball says that it is

-contemplated to send out an exploring party to start on Monday and

-proceed north to the Bear River and Cache valleys. They design taking

-several wagons with them and Presidents Young and Kimball accompany the

-expedition. Another company is to start at the same time and go west to

-the lake, then south to the Utah lake and return down this valley.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, July 25</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine and pleasant. At ten o'clock a meeting was held in the

-camp and the brethren addressed successively by Elders G. A.

-Smith, H. C. Kimball and E. T. Benson, these mostly

-expressing their feeling of gratification for the prospects of this

-country, each being highly satisfied with the soil, etc. Elder Kimball

-referred especially to the manifold blessings we have been favored

-with during the journey. Not a man, woman, or child has died on the

-journey, not even a horse, mule, ox, cow or chicken has died during

-the whole journey. Many exhortations were given to the brethren to

-be faithful, obey the council of those in authority and we shall be

-blessed and prosperous. At 1:00 p.m. by request of Elder Kimball, the

-following persons viz.: Howard Egan, Hans C. Hanson, Jackson Redding,

-Carlos Murray, Thomas Cloward, George Billings, Philo Johnson, Charles

-Harper, Edson Whipple, Wm. A. King, Hosea Cusing, Robert Byard, Orson

-K. Whitney and Horace Whitney, assembled themselves in a willow grove

-adjacent to the camp where Elder Kimball addressed them in substance as

-follows [the whole reported by Horace Whitney]:</p>

-

-<p>"Most of you here present have become adopted into my family, except

-a very few calling them by name and Horace, who has become connected

-with my family by marriage, but I do not care for that, you are all the

-same to me, and your interest is my interest for what's mine is yours

-and what's yours is your own. If I have the privilege of building a

-house, I want you to help me and I will help you. Horace will want to

-build a house for some of his father's family if they should come up

-and there is plenty of timber in the hills. When my family comes up,

-we may conclude to settle somewhere else. If so, there will be plenty

-to buy us out if we shall have made any improvements. I want you all

-to be prudent and take care of your horses, cattle and everything

-entrusted to your care. It would be a good plan and probably will be

-done for those who stay here, to go back on the Sweet Water and kill

-buffalo, etc., for winter consumption. We shall go tomorrow if Brigham

-is well enough, in search of a better location--if indeed, such

-can be found--if not, we shall remain here. There should be an

-enclosure made for the purpose of keeping the horses and cattle in

-nights for there are plenty of Indians in the vicinity. I should

-advise you to keep the Sabbath day holy whether others do or not. I

-want you to put all the seed into the ground that you think will come

-to maturity. I am satisfied that buckwheat will do as well here as

-any other seed we can grow. I want also some peach stones and apple

-seeds to be planted forthwith. Brother Byard and Hans I would like

-to have immediately engage in making garments of buck skins, Brother

-Cloward in making shoes and Brother Johnson in making hats as soon as

-practicable. If you wish to go hunting, fishing, or to see the country,

-select a week day and not the Lord's day for that purpose. Do not let

-us get giddy and light minded as the Nephites did of old, but strive to

-work righteousness in the beginning, inasmuch as we have reached the

-promised land. If it is advisable to work in a family capacity, we will

-do so; and if in a church capacity, we should be equally willing to do

-that. I am going out on a scout with the brethren and I shall probably

-want one or two of you to go with me and also one or two wagons. I

-am not going to take anything back with me to Winter Quarters except

-what is actually necessary--even some of my clothes I shall leave

-behind. I shall leave Bishop Whipple with you. He is quite a steady

-and economical man, and as such I recommend him to you. I want every

-man to be as industrious as possible while I am gone and get into the

-ground all the turnips, cabbage and other seeds you can. In case a

-storm of snow should come on, it would be advisable to drive all the

-cattle among the willows where they can remain until the snow goes off.

-I want you all to work together until such time as every man can have

-his inheritance set off to him. I feel towards you as a father towards

-his children and I want you to banish all peevishness from your midst

-and accommodate yourselves as much as possible to each other's wishes.

-I have it to say that my boys have been faithful to their various

-duties on this journey and other people have noticed it and expressed

-the opinion that they never saw such an attentive set of men in their

-lives, and I consider that their conduct is worthy of imitation. I want

-you to be sober and prayerful and remember me and my family in your

-prayers." A number of other good ideas were advanced by Brother Heber

-and then we closed the meeting by prayer.</p>

-

-<p>At 2:00 p.m. the brethren again assembled within the camp and were

-successively addressed by Elders Woodruff, Orson Pratt and W. Richards

-sustaining the ideas advanced by the other brethren this morning. Some

-remarks followed from Lorenzo Young, John Pack and others and the

-meeting was dismissed. It is contemplated to send some wagons back to

-lighten the loads and assist the next company over these rough roads.

-It is now certain that there is considerable timber in the ravines and

-valleys between the mountains, several large bodies having been seen

-by the brethren since our arrival. There is a mountain lying northeast

-from here on which is considerably large timber. It is supposed to be

-about ten miles distance. The northern expedition is given up for the

-present on account of President Young's health. A company intend to

-go tomorrow to the lake and survey that region. If they go, they will

-probably be gone a day or two.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, July 26</h3>

-

-<p>Morning cloudy and pleasant. The brethren commenced plowing early,

-others are gone to planting, etc., and the brethren appear to feel

-well. Some of the sick have been to bathe in one of the hot springs

-and pronounce the effects wonderfully beneficial. Others are going

-this morning to try the same experiment. Another company are gone to

-make a road to the timber through a ravine a little north of this.

-About ten o'clock, President Young sent me a horse with instructions

-to join him and some others going on a short exploring expedition.

-I immediately started and found the company consisted of President

-Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff, G. A. Smith, Benson, Richards

-and Carrington. We took a course northward passing by the land where

-the brethren are plowing and planting. The land indeed looks rich and

-light. About three-quarters of a mile north of the camp, we arrived on

-a beautiful table land, level and nicely sloping to the west. Here we

-halted to view it and the more we viewed, the better we were satisfied

-that it is as handsome a place for a city as can be imagined. At the

-east part there is a considerable creek of clear cold water descending

-from the mountains and just above this place it branches into two

-forks, one running northwest, the other southwest, and the two nicely

-surrounding this place, and so well arranged that should a city be

-built here the water can be turned into every street at pleasure. We

-passed on and began to ascend the mountains, the President signifying

-a wish to ascend a high peak to the north of us. After some hard toil

-and time we succeeded in gaining the summit, leaving our horses about

-two-thirds the way up. President Young felt pretty well fatigued when

-he got up. Some of the brethren feel like naming this Ensign Peak. From

-this place, we had a good view of the Salt Lake and could see that the

-waters extend for a great many miles to the north of us. There appears

-to be land, although white with salt, all the way to the mountain

-on the northwest which we had previously supposed was surrounded by

-water. We can see a pretty large stream winding from the south to the

-north through the valley but keeping not many miles distant from these

-mountains towards the lake. After satisfying ourselves we began to

-descend, President Young and Lorenzo, who joined us a while before we

-went up, going down on the east side where they were joined by Elders

-Woodruff, Benson, and Richards with the horses. Elders Kimball, Smith,

-Carrington and myself descended on the northwest corner and found the

-descent very lengthy and difficult. These hills are mostly rocky of a

-kind of soft stone in some places, in others a harder kind of flint

-stone. On arriving on the level again, we wound our way southward to

-meet the other brethren and after passing a little way saw one of the

-sulphur springs where a pretty large stream of sulphur water boils out

-of the rock at the foot of the mountain and thence branches out into

-several smaller streams for some distance till these enter a small

-lake. This water is about as warm as dish water and very salty. There

-is much filthy kind of substance collected on it and the smell arising

-from it is truly nauseating and sickly, though generally supposed to

-be in no way unhealthy. Elder Kimball left us here on seeing Elder

-Woodruff's carriage and the other brethren returning back towards the

-camp. In the meantime, Elders Smith, Carrington and myself went lower

-down towards the lake in search of some fresh water to quench our

-thirst. We found a nice clear stream of cold water but a little way

-from the sulphur spring and having drunk of it, we concluded to go

-on and see the river which we had noticed from the mountain. We took

-nearly a west course and soon struck the old road made by emigrants

-last year. We found the land exceedingly rich all along, good grass and

-abundance of rushes. We found many wet places but no signs of swamps,

-nor danger of miring. After traveling about two miles, we arrived at

-the river having followed the road to the ford. This river is about

-five rods wide on an average, three and a half feet deep at the ford

-but in other places much deeper. The current is slow and the water of

-a dark lead color. The banks are about five feet high and the soil to

-the water level of a rich, black alluvial. There is no timber on the

-banks here and not many willow bushes. We went over the river and found

-the soil equally good on the other side. While here we observed Elder

-Woodruff's carriage and the brethren again proceeding northward. We

-started back to meet them, it being the intention to go to the large,

-hot sulphur spring. We could but remark all along, the richness of

-the soil and the abundance of high, good looking grass. On arriving

-at the foot of the mountain beside another sulphur spring, we saw the

-carriage come on to the first spring but apparently judging it unsafe

-to cross, they wheeled around and returned back to camp. Elders Smith,

-Carrington and myself then concluded to go on and view the big spring

-which we found to be about two miles farther. Before arriving at it,

-there is a large shoal salt lake and on the banks are numerous sulphur

-springs varying in the appearance of the surface and losing themselves

-in the lake. There were many plovers on and around this lake. We

-arrived at the big spring about four o'clock and making our horses

-fast, we went down to where it boils out of the rock. This spring is

-also situated at the foot of the mountains and at the base of a large

-rock, perpendicular on the west side and gradually losing itself on

-the east in the mountain. The spring, as I have said, is at the base

-of this rock. There is a circular hole about four feet wide and a yard

-high from the top to the surface of the water from whence the water

-boils out in a considerable stream. The water itself in the spring

-seems to be about two feet deep. There is a rock at the mouth of the

-spring where a person can stand and see inside. Standing on this rock

-with your face near the mouth of the spring a strong warm sulphurous

-air is felt to come in gusts out of the rock and it is so hot that it

-requires only a few minutes to start the perspiration. On putting my

-hand in the spring, I was startled with the heat and found I could not

-bear to hold my hand in five seconds. It is as hot as the hottest dish

-water ever used for dishes. Immediately on emerging from the rock, the

-water forms a lake about three rods in diameter and evidently pretty

-deep. The water is exceedingly clear and nice to look at but very salty

-indeed. We could see the water boil up in many parts of the lake. The

-water escapes at the north side of the lake at the base of the rock and

-there forms a stream about four feet wide and eighteen inches deep. We

-concluded we would go down the stream six or eight rods to wash our

-feet, naturally expecting the water to be cooler, but on taking off

-our boots and socks we found it impossible to hold our feet in it a

-moment and could barely wash by dashing the water on with our hands

-and suddenly dipping them in and out. It is supposed this would boil

-an egg in about ten minutes. At five o'clock we returned back to camp

-and supposed that the spring is about four miles distance. We arrived

-in camp at six o'clock. The brethren have planted about three acres of

-potatoes, some peas, beans, and are now planting four or five acres

-of corn. Elder Kimball stated that on returning with the carriage to

-the creek near the camp to get some water, he discovered that he had

-lost his spy glass. He retraced his steps on foot to the top of the

-peak and back without finding it, and on arriving at the bottom he saw

-Elders Richards and Benson bathing in one of the warm sulphur springs.

-Although wet with perspiration he took off his clothes and plunged in

-and found the effects very pleasant and beneficial. After bathing they

-started back for camp and but a few rods distance found the glass near

-the road. Some of the brethren have commenced making a garden about two

-miles to the southeast and indeed their operations and industry are

-truly pleasing and noble. The more I view the country, the better I am

-satisfied that the Saints can live here and raise abundant crops. Elder

-Kimball has kindly offered me a horse to ride and view the country

-as much and when I have a mind to while we stay here. This morning

-Joseph Mathews and John Brown started west to go to the mountain. They

-returned this evening and report that they have been at the foot of

-the mountain and judge it to be about sixteen miles distance. They say

-the wild sage is very plentiful on the other side the valley, showing

-that the land is not so rich there as here. They found a horse, near

-the mountain and have brought it to camp, supposed to have strayed from

-emigrants who have previously passed this way. Towards sundown heavy

-clouds were noticed in the south and southwest. We expected a shower,

-but it passed off to the east.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, July 27</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine and warm. The atmosphere appears very different here to

-what it did amongst the mountains. The evenings and nights are very

-warm and pleasant and the air appears pure. Two of the Utah Indians

-came to camp early this morning to trade. Two ponies were bought of

-them for a rifle and musket. These two are but of moderate size,

-pleasing countenance and dressed in skins. At half past eight Amasa

-Lyman, Rodney Badger, Roswell Stevens, and Brother Brannan arrived in

-camp. They report that the Pueblo company will be in tomorrow or the

-day after. The brethren are still busy plowing and planting. Burr Frost

-has his forge up and quite a number of plows have been rigged up by the

-assistance of the carpenters. Elder Lyman, I understand, reports that

-they heard of a large company on their way and he thinks we may expect

-them in 15 or 20 days. Elders Lyman and Brannan joined the exploring

-party with President Young and Kimball and the company started off soon

-after their arrival. A company of brethren have been to the mountains

-to get more lumber to build a skiff. They returned this evening

-bringing a very handsome pine log about twenty inches through and

-which, probably, when whole, would measure sixty feet long. The day has

-been very fine and warm. The horses and cattle seem in good spirits and

-are getting fat. They are full of life and ambition. Presidents Young

-and Kimball have had their wagons moved a little distance from the camp

-to the other side the creek. During the afternoon, two more Indians

-came in to trade. Some of the brethren are making unwise trades, giving

-twenty charges of powder and balls for a buck skin, while the usual

-price is three charges. This is wrong.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, July 28</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine and warm. Several of the Indians have remained in camp

-over night. They seem very peaceable and gentle and anxious to trade.

-The brethren are making a saw pit to saw lumber for a skiff. Joseph

-Hancock and Lewis Barney have been off hunting in the mountains two

-days. They state there is abundance of good timber for building in the

-mountains but difficult to get at it. The timber is mostly balsam fir

-and poplar and many sticks will make two good logs. At half past three

-President Young and company returned. They have been at the Salt Lake

-and report it to be about twenty-five miles distance. No water after

-they leave the river except salt water. The lake is very clear and the

-water heavy, so much so, that a man cannot possibly sink. Even not

-where more than four feet deep and they tried to fall down on their

-knees but could not touch the bottom. They can sit or lie in the water

-perfectly easily without touching the bottom. One of the brethren lay

-down on the water and another got on him but could not sink him. They

-suppose the water will yield 35% pure salt. They gathered some off the

-rocks which is as pure, white and fine as the best that can be bought

-in market.</p>

-

-<p>There is a cave in the mountain west of the camp which is sixty feet

-from the entrance to the far end. The Indians appear to have frequently

-visited it and there are yet the remains of their fires.</p>

-

-<p>There appears to be no fresh water beyond the river and the brethren

-are more and more satisfied that we are already on the right spot.

-At eight o'clock the brethren were called together and addressed by

-President Young on various subjects, pointing out items of law which

-would be put in force here, his feelings towards the gentiles, etc. He

-said they intended to divide the city into blocks of ten acres each

-with eight lots in a block of one and a quarter acres each. The streets

-to be wide. No house will be permitted to be built on the corners of

-the streets, neither petty shops. Each house will have to be built so

-many feet back from the street and all the houses parallel with each

-other. The fronts are to be beautified with fruit trees, etc. No filth

-will be allowed to stand in the city but the water will be conducted

-through in such a manner as to carry all the filth off to the River

-Jordan. No man will be suffered to cut up his lot and sell a part to

-speculate out of his brethren. Each man must keep his lot whole, for

-the Lord has given it to us without price. The temple lot will be

-forty acres and adorned with trees, ponds, etc. The whole subject was

-interesting to the brethren and the items will probably be given more

-fully hereafter. The Twelve were appointed a committee to lay off the

-city, etc.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, July 29</h3>

-

-<p>We have had a very strong cold, east wind all the night and the morning

-is tolerably cool. At eleven o'clock I was moved up to the other camp

-about three-quarters of a mile. At ten o'clock we had a light shower.

-It rained pretty heavily all around but mostly passed by here. At three

-o'clock, the Pueblo brethren came in sight, the soldiers appearing in

-military order, many of them mounted. They have twenty-nine wagons in

-the company and one carriage. Presidents Young, Kimball and the Twelve

-went to meet the brethren and met them in the canyon. They report that

-they had very heavy rain there, the water rising in the creek three

-feet in a very short time, caused by the rush from the mountains. The

-brethren arrived at the lower camp at half past three and marched in

-headed by the fifes and side drum. They have camped a little west

-of the other camp. The brethren are represented as feeling well and

-cheerful. At five o'clock the Twelve returned here and an hour later

-went over north to the mountains, I suppose to hold a council.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, July 30</h3>

-

-<p>Day warm. Twelve held a council with the officer of the battalion,

-then rode up to the hot spring. Evening a general meeting of the camp

-and addressed by President Young. He told his feelings concerning the

-soldiers, they have saved the people by going when required, etc. He

-rejoiced that they are here. He expressed his feelings warmly towards

-the brethren and also told his feelings towards the gentiles. The

-meeting was opened by hosannas three times and closed by requesting

-the battalion to build a bower tomorrow on the temple lot where we can

-assemble for meetings, etc.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, July 31</h3>

-

-<p>This morning the brethren commenced making the bower on the temple lot

-a little southwest from our camp. They will make it about forty feet

-long and twenty-eight feet wide. Walked with President Young, Kimball,

-Richards and others to the Mississippi camp. Brother Thomas Richardson

-is very sick and several others of the soldiers. Soloman Tindal is yet

-alive but looks feeble. Elder Kimball conversed sometime with Captain

-James Brown. There are from twenty to thirty of the Utah Indians here

-and some squaws trading with the brethren. They are generally of low

-stature, pleasing countenance but poorly clad. While we were there, a

-dispute arose between two of the young men and they went to fighting

-very fiercely. One broke his gun stock on the other's head and I

-expected to see a pretty serious affray, many of the others gathering

-around. Soon an old man came up, father to one of the young men engaged

-in the quarrel and he used his heavy whip very freely about both their

-heads and faces. The antagonist of the son struck the old man and he

-immediately gathered a long pole and broke it over the young man's

-head. He succeeded in quelling the broil and gave them a long lecture.

-They then mostly left and resumed their trading a little distance from

-the camp. In the afternoon, we had a pretty smart thunder shower and

-considerable wind. In the evening I walked down to the Pueblo camp and

-there learned the following particulars:</p>

-

-<p>These Indians who are now here are of the Shoshones, about fifteen or

-twenty in number, and several women among them. There were four or five

-of the Utahs here this morning when the Shoshones came up. One of the

-Utahs had stolen a horse from one of the Shoshones and the latter party

-saw him with the horse here. He had traded the horse for a rifle but

-was unwilling either to give up the horse or rifle hence the quarrel

-spoken of above. When the old man separated them, the thief went down

-and hid himself in the camp below. Soon after, he saw another horse

-walking by, which he knew to belong to the Shoshones. He sprang on his

-own horse and drove the other one before him towards the mountains on

-the southeast as hard as he could ride. The Shoshones being informed

-of it, four of them started in pursuit and as he got in between the

-mountains they closed in on him, one of the pursuers shooting him dead

-while another one shot his horse. They returned and made this report

-to the others of the tribe at the camp at the same time exhibiting

-fresh blood on one of the rifles. They appear to be much excited and

-continually on the watch. When the men returned, they sat down and made

-a meal of some of these large crickets. They appear to be crisped over

-the fire which is all the cooking required. Many of the brethren have

-traded muskets and rifles for horses and ordinary muskets will buy a

-pretty good horse. They appear to be displeased because we have traded

-with the Utahs and say they own this land, that that the Utahs have

-come over the line, etc. They signified by signs that they wanted to

-sell us the land for powder and lead. The Shoshones are poorer clad

-than the Utahs. They are about the same in stature and there are many

-pleasing countenances among them. Colonel Markham reports that there

-are three lots of land already broke. One lot of thirty-five acres of

-which two-thirds is already planted with buckwheat, corn, oats, etc.

-One lot of eight acres which is all planted with corn, potatoes, beans,

-etc. And a garden of ten acres, four acres of which is sown with garden

-seed. He says there are about three acres of corn already up about two

-inches above the ground and some beans and potatoes up too. This is

-the result of eight days' labor, besides making a road to the timber,

-hauling and sawing timber for a boat, making and repairing plows, etc.

-There have been thirteen plows and three harrows worked during the week.</p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-16>August 1847</h2>

-

-<h3>Sunday, August 1</h3>

-

-<p>We have had another cool windy night. At ten o'clock in the morning

-the brethren assembled for meeting under the bower on the temple lot,

-all the members of the quorum of the Twelve being present except

-President Young who is quite sick again. After the meeting had been

-opened by singing and prayer by Elder G. A. Smith, Elder Kimball

-arose and made some remarks to the following effect, as reported by

-Brother Bullock: "I would enquire whether there is a guard out around

-our cattle; if not, let one be placed immediately. The Indians left

-here very suddenly this morning and we don't know their object. If we

-don't take good care of what we have, we will not have any more. It is

-all in the world we shall ever have, for 'to him that receiveth I will

-give more.' We are the sons of God and He will do with us as we would

-do to our children, and inasmuch as I am faithful in taking care of my

-neighbors' goods, I shall be entitled to the same from them, for we

-are commanded to do unto others as we want others to do to us. Every

-penurious man who takes advantage of others will come down to poverty.

-If we have to follow the steps of our Savior we have to follow and

-experience the same things; you will have to feel for men so as to know

-how to sympathize with them and then you can feel for them. I feel for

-this people and grow more feeling for them every day. Our Father in

-Heaven is more tender to us than any mother to her little child. If I

-am faithful to serve others, others will be willing to serve me."</p>

-

-<p>Orson Pratt requested the prayers of the Saints in his behalf: "It

-is with peculiar feelings that I arise before so many of the Saints

-in this uncultivated region inhabited by savages. My mind is full

-of reflection on the scenes through which we have passed and being

-brought through the deserts of sage to this distant region. God's ways

-are not as our ways. It is not wisdom that the Saints should always

-foresee the difficulties they have to encounter for then they would

-not be trials. We expected some revelations to take place and behold

-they are revealed in the Book of Mormon and Doctrine and Covenants,

-for we are to congregate among the remnants of Joseph. We did think

-our wives and children would be built up among the strongholds of the

-gentiles, we thought we should be as Missourians to them. Jehovah had

-different purposes. He designed that this people should be brought

-out almost as an entire people. The Book of Mormon never would have

-been fulfilled if the Saints had not left the gentiles as a people,

-for when the gentiles rejected the Gospel it was to be taken among the

-Lamanites. So long as the Gospel, the Priesthood and the main body of

-the people remained with them, the fullness of the Gospel was not taken

-away from the gentiles. This movement is one of the greatest that has

-taken place among this people. I feel thankful as one of the Twelve for

-the privilege of coming out as one of the pioneers to this glorious

-valley where we can build up a city to the Lord. For many years I have

-not read that good old book, but I remember the predictions in it and

-some that are now very nearly fulfilled by us. Isaiah says, (Chapter

-62) speaking of the City of Zion, it shall be 'Sought out, a city not

-forsaken,' etc. Many in this congregation know what is meant by the

-garments of salvation and the robe of righteousness. Righteousness and

-praise shall spring forth before all the nations of the earth and they

-will not hold their peace. There are many of you that feel you can cry

-day and night to the people in the cause of righteousness until it

-shall triumph. 'For as a young man marrieth a virgin,' etc.--this

-belongs and refers to us. 'I will no longer give thy corn to be meat

-for thine enemy.' This has not been fulfilled heretofore but will be.

-The corn that we toil to raise from the earth, it shall not be given

-to our enemies, they that gather it shall eat it, and they shall drink

-in the courts of His holiness. This wine is also to be drunk in the

-courts of the Lord's house. We have gathered out the stones out of the

-road and thousands will yet fulfil this prophecy. It has reference

-to the latter times that were to dawn upon the world in the last

-dispensation. 'Thou shalt be called, Sought out, A city not forsaken.'

-If ever there was a place sought out it is this, we have enquired

-diligently and have found it. This cannot refer to Jerusalem, but to

-this very place, point and spot that the pioneers have found where a

-city shall be built unto the Lord, where righteousness will reign and

-iniquity not be allowed. Isaiah and Joel both spake very plainly on

-this subject. 'It shall come to pass in the last days that the house of

-the Lord shall be established,' etc. In what part of the earth could

-it be established more than in this place where this congregation is

-gathered. In the midst of the spires of the mountains we have found

-a place large enough to gather a few thousand of the Saints. You may

-travel Europe, Asia, Africa and America but you cannot find a place

-much higher where any people can raise crops and sustain themselves.

-The house of the Lord will be established on the tops of the mountains

-when we shall have once reared here. The experience of the Saints

-proves that there was no house of the Lord, and we can say: travel over

-this earth but you cannot find the house of the Lord. The Lord must

-give the pattern of the building and order it, and give directions to

-His servants. The Lord wants His house built precisely to the pattern

-that He gives and He is bound to speak to and bless and make them His

-own children in that house and I verily believe I shall see it and see

-thousands come flocking to the house to learn the way of salvation.

-And I want to see the time that I shall see thousands raising their

-voices on this consecrated land. There are many testimonies in the

-prophets all bearing upon this subject. Joseph, in the Book of Doctrine

-and Covenants speaks of this very subject and it appears there will be

-some sinners in Zion who will be afraid and a devouring fire will rest

-upon every dwelling place in Zion. 'He that walketh righteously' etc.,

-'He shall dwell on high, bread shall be given him, his water shall

-be sure.' Isaiah was on the eastern continent when he spoke this and

-was speaking of a very distant place. It will be pretty difficult to

-get a ship of war up to this place. When we get used to this healthy

-climate, the people will not say, I am sick, but will be able to smite

-the gentiles. They will grow up strong and will not be in jeopardy

-from sickness. The wilderness shall become as a fruitful field and a

-fruitful field as a forest. We know the time will come that the great

-Jehovah will cause springs of water to gush out of the desert lands

-and we shall see the lands survive that the gentiles have defiled.

-Isaiah speaks of the heritage of Jacob being in a high place. This

-is about four thousand feet above the level of the sea and the high

-mountains will still catch the hail and we shall be in a low place. We

-will not feel discouraged but will feel full of vigor and circumscribe

-all things to the very heavens, for this is what we desire above all

-things. Let us endeavor to covenant in our hearts, that we will serve

-the Lord; that we will keep His commandments and obey His counsel. I

-wish that all of us should be faithful and as President Young said the

-other evening, every man is expected to do his duty. The Lord will be

-with us still; He will shield, guard and defend us by day and be our

-refuge by night, and our salvation. I feel to say in the name of the

-Lord Jesus Christ, you shall be blest if you keep the commandments of

-God. Amen."</p>

-

-<p>Elder Kimball hopes the brethren will be attentive to what they hear

-for if you bring an evil upon this people you will bring destruction

-upon yourself. If you do things according to counsel and they are

-wrong, the consequences will fall on the heads of those who counseled

-you, so don't be troubled. I do not want to be wrapt in the skins of

-some men who have taken a course that has brought destruction upon

-themselves and others, and they will have to answer for it. I am a man

-that would not speak to a man's daughter to marry her until I have

-first spoken to her father and mother also, and then it is done by

-common consent. But I preach the truth, every word of it. President

-Young instructed the Battalion last evening and counseled them for

-their comfort and the counsel is for the brethren to keep their guns

-and their powder and their balls and lead and not let the Indians have

-it for they will shoot down our cattle. They stole guns yesterday and

-had them under their blankets and if you don't attend to this you are

-heating a kettle of boiling water to scald your own feet. If you listen

-to counsel you will let them alone and let them eat the crickets,

-there's a plenty of them. I understand they offered to sell the land

-and we were to buy it of them, the Utahs would want to pay for it too.

-The land belongs to our Father in Heaven and we calculate to plow and

-plant it and no man will have power to sell his inheritance for he

-cannot remove it; it belongs to the Lord. I am glad I have come to a

-place where I feel free. I am satisfied and we are in a goodly land. My

-family is back, my teams are helping on several families and leaving

-ours. If my family were here I would not go over that road again. I

-believe in Brother Joseph's religion which he said was a key that would

-save every man or woman, and that it is for every man to mind his own

-business and let other people's business alone. We will all have farms

-and cultivate them and plant vineyards, and if we are faithful, five

-years will not pass away before we are better off than we ever were

-in Nauvoo. If we had brought our families along everybody else would

-have come; and we must lose another year. We could not bring all the

-soldiers' families for the same reason that we did not bring our own

-families. I thank the Lord that there are so many of the soldiers here.

-If they had tarried in Winter Quarters there would have been many more

-deaths among them. We brought many of these pioneers to save their

-lives, many of them were very sick and were carried out of their beds

-and put into the wagons. They have mostly recovered their health and

-we have been prosperous and have been permitted to arrive here alive.

-There has not one died on the journey, nor an ox nor horse nor anything

-except one of Brother Crow's oxen which was poisoned. We lost several

-horses by accident and we shall be prosperous on our journey back again

-if we are faithful, those of us who go, and we shall see and enjoy

-the society of our families again. We will one day have a house built

-here and have the forts and go into the house and administer for our

-dead. Elder Richards then read an order from Lieut. Cooke of the Mormon

-Battalion on the Pacific, after which Elder Bullock read a letter from

-Jefferson Hunt to James Brown, dated July 6, 1847, after which and a

-few other remarks, the meeting was dismissed.</p>

-

-<p>At 2:25 the congregation assembled and opened by singing and prayer by

-Elder Woodruff. Bread and water were then administered by the bishops

-after which Elder Richards, after a few preliminary remarks, read the

-"Word and will of the Lord," as given in Winter Quarters. Elder Kimball

-made some remarks and the brethren manifested that they received and

-would obey the revelations by uplifted hand. He was followed by remarks

-by Elder Amasa Lyman, mostly sustaining the positions taken by the

-previous speakers. Elder Kimball again rose to lay before the brethren

-some items of business, whereupon it was decided that the three

-companies form into one camp and labor together that the officers be a

-committee to form the corral, and that the corral be formed tomorrow.

-That horses and mules be tied near the camp at nights; that we build

-houses instead of living in wagons this winter; that we go to work

-immediately putting up houses; that we work unitedly; that the houses

-form a stockade or fort to keep out the Indians; that our women and

-children be not abused and that we let the Indians alone.</p>

-

-<p>Colonel Rockwood remarked that a log house 16 by 15 would cost forty

-dollars and one of adobes half as much. Captain Brown was in favor of

-setting men to work building both log and adobe houses to hasten the

-work. Captain Lewis said that inasmuch as timber is scarce and we have

-spades and shovels and tools enough, as many as can be used, he is in

-favor of building adobe houses and saving the timber. Lieutenant Willis

-said you can put up an adobe house before a man could get the logs for

-a log house. Adobe houses are healthy and are the best for equinoxial

-gales. Elder Brannan has a man in California who will take three men,

-make adobes for a thirty foot house, build the house and put a family

-in it in a week. His printing office was put up in fourteen days and a

-paper printed. Elder Richards said we want brick made and lime burned.

-If wood is put into houses it will be a waste of it. We want all the

-timber to make floors and roofs. We want the walls up and we are men

-enough to put them up in a few days and have the women protected.

-It was voted to put up a stockade of adobe houses. Samuel Gould and

-James Drum reported themselves as lime burners. Sylvester H. Earl,

-Joel J. Terrill, Ralph Douglas and Joseph Hancock reported themselves

-as brick makers. Elder Kimball then remarked that those who intend

-to send ox teams back to Winter Quarters must be ready a week from

-tomorrow morning. If the cattle's feet are too tender, have them shod,

-or have new shoes in the wagons. Those oxen to rest and be released

-from plowing, etc. Do not get the Indians around here. I want you to

-have nothing to do with them. After a few remarks on general items, the

-meeting dismissed.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, August 2</h3>

-

-<p>We have had another cool night, but morning fine. The other companies

-commenced moving their wagons up and we also moved a little farther

-east. During the day the whole camp was formed in an oblong circle.

-About noon Ezra T. Benson and several others started back to meet the

-next company. They carried a letter, the following being a copy of the

-same:</p>

-

-<p>"Pioneer camp. Valley of the Great Salt Lake, August 2, 1847. To

-General Chas. C. Rich and the Presidents and Officers of the emigrating

-company. Beloved Brethren: We have delegated our beloved Brother Ezra

-T. Benson and escort to communicate to you by express the cheering

-intelligence that we have arrived in the most beautiful valley of the

-Great Salt Lake, that every soul who left Winter Quarters with us

-is alive and almost everyone enjoying good health. That portion of

-the battalion that was at Pueblo is here with us together with the

-Mississippi company that accompanied them and they are generally well.

-We number about 450 souls and we know of no one but who is pleased with

-our situation. We have commenced the survey of a city this morning. We

-feel that the time is fast approaching when those teams that are going

-to Winter Quarters this fall should be on the way. Every individual

-here would be glad to tarry if his friends were here, but as many of

-the battalion, as well as the pioneers, have not their families here

-and do not expect that they are in your camp, we wish to learn by

-express from you, the situation of your camp as speedily as possible

-that we may be prepared to counsel and act in the whole matter. We

-want you to send us the names of every individual in your camp, or in

-other words, a copy of your camp roll, including the names, number of

-wagons, horses, mules, oxen, cows, etc., and the health of your camp,

-your location, prospects, etc. If your teams are worn out, if your camp

-is sick and not able to take care of themselves, if you are short of

-teamsters or any other circumstance impeding your progress. We want to

-know it immediately for we have help for you, and if your teams are in

-good plight and will be able to return to Winter Quarters this season

-or any portion of them, we want to know it. We also want the mail,

-which will include all letters and papers, and packages belonging to

-our camp, general and particular. Should circumstances permit, we would

-gladly meet you some distance from this, but our time is very much

-occupied. Notwithstanding, we think you will see us before you see our

-valley. Let all the brethren and sisters cheer up their hearts and know

-assuredly that God has heard and answered their prayers and ours and

-led us to a goodly land, and our souls are satisfied therewith. Brother

-Benson can give you many particulars that will be gratifying and

-cheering to you which we have not time to write, and we feel to bless

-all the Saints. In behalf of the council. Willard Richards, Clerk.

-Brigham Young, President.</p>

-

-<p>This morning, Elders Pratt and Sherwood commenced surveying the city

-to lay it off in lots but finally concluded to wait until the chain

-could be tested by a standard pole which will have to be gotten from

-the mountains. Some of the brethren are preparing to make moulds

-for adobes. In the evening, Elder Kimball's teams returned from the

-mountains with some good house logs and poles for measuring, etc.

-The day has been very warm but the nights begin to be very cool. The

-northeast winds seem to prevail here at this season and coming from the

-mountains of snow are cold when the sun is down. After dark President

-Young sent for me to come to his wagon and told his calculations about

-our starting back. He wants me to start with the ox teams next Monday

-so as to have a better privilege of taking the distances, etc. He

-calculates the horse teams to start two weeks later, and if the first

-company arrives at Grand Island before the other comes up to wait for

-them there, kill and dry buffalo, etc. He wants the roadometer fixed

-this week and Elder Kimball has selected William King to do the work.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, August 3</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine, but cool. Elder Carrington starts for the mountains to

-look for limestone. During the day I went and bathed at Bullock's

-bathing place in one of the warm sulphur springs. I found the effects

-very refreshing and beneficial. Spent most of the day making a table of

-distances, etc. The day very hot.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, August 4</h3>

-

-<p>This morning William A. King has commenced making a new roadometer. The

-day very hot and close.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, August 5</h3>

-

-<p>Again at the roadometer, day very warm. J. C. Little and others

-have returned and report that they have been at the Utah Lake. As they

-went up they saw bodies of two dead Indians lying on the ground proving

-that there was one of each tribe killed the other day. They consider

-it to be about forty miles to the Utah Lake and on the east side is a

-handsome valley about six or eight miles wide. They are now convinced

-that the stream which runs a few miles below here is the Utah outlet,

-they having followed it to its junction with the lake.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, August 6</h3>

-

-<p>The day very warm.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, August 7</h3>

-

-<p>Today William A. King has finished the roadometer which will now tell

-the distance for one thousand miles without keeping any account. About

-noon a very large whirlwind struck the south side of the camp forming

-a cloud of dust about twenty feet in diameter and making a loud roar.

-It carried a chicken up some distance, tore up the bowers, and shook

-the wagons violently in its course. It passed off to the northeast and

-seemed to break at the mountains. This morning fifteen of the brethren

-commenced building a dam a little above the camp so as to bring the

-water around and inside the camp. They finished early in the afternoon

-and we have now a pleasant little stream of cold water running on

-each side the wagons all around the camp. Where the water runs off or

-overflows the gutters, it soon becomes miry and cattle will sink a half

-a yard in mud. This is owing to the lightness of the soil, it being

-very light and rich. In the evening, many of the brethren went and were

-baptized in the dam by Elder Kimball for the remission of sins, Elders

-Pratt, Woodruff, and Smith attending to confirmation. I went and was

-baptized amongst the rest. It has been recommended for all the camp to

-be baptized and this evening they have commenced it.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, August 8</h3>

-

-<p>Morning cloudy with strong northeast wind. The brethren have resumed

-baptizing and a number have obeyed the ordinance both male and female.

-At ten o'clock, a meeting was held in the bowery and instructions given

-to the brethren. At two o'clock, sacrament was administered and 110 of

-the brethren selected to make adobes. Wrote a letter for Heber to Elder

-Martin and others.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, August 9</h3>

-

-<p>At eleven o'clock, Brannan, Captain James Brown and several others

-started for San Francisco. Elder J. C. Little accompanies them to

-Fort Hall. I spent three hours taking observations with the barometer

-with Elder Pratt to ascertain the height of the land on the creek above

-the city. Ensign Peak, etc. The twelve had decided on a name for this

-place and a caption for all letters and documents issued from this

-place, which is as follows: Salt Lake City, Great Basin, North America.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, August 10</h3>

-

-<p>This morning, President Young and Kimball have gone to the adobe yard

-to commence building some houses in that region. They have already got

-many good logs on the ground. Colonel Markham reports that in addition

-to the plowing done week before last, they have plowed about thirty

-acres which is mostly planted, making a total of about eighty acres.

-The plowing ceased last week and the brethren are now making adobes,

-hauling logs, etc. Elder Sherwood continues surveying the city. Tanner

-and Frost are setting wagon tires and have set fifty-two today. The

-brethren who went to the lake on Monday to boil down salt have returned

-this evening and report that they have found a bed of beautiful salt

-ready to load into wagons. It lies between two sand bars and is about

-six inches thick. They suppose they can easily load ten wagons without

-boiling. I have received from Elder Kimball a pair of buckskin pants,

-as a present I suppose, but as I have on similar occasions been

-branded with the idea of receiving a great many kindnesses without

-consideration, I will for this once state a little particular on the

-other side the question. I acknowledge that I have had the privilege of

-riding in a wagon and sleeping in it, of having my victuals cooked and

-some meat and milk, and occasionally a little tea or coffee furnished.

-My flour I furnished myself. I have had no team to take care of. Howard

-Egan has done most of my washing until a month ago in consideration of

-the privilege of copying from my journal, using my desk, ink, etc. The

-balance of my washing I have hired. Now what have I done for Brother

-Kimball? Am I justly indebted on this journey? Answer: I have written

-in his journal 124 pages of close matter on an average of 600 words

-to a page, which if paid at the price of recording deeds in Illinois

-would amount to over $110.00. I have collected the matter myself,

-besides writing letters, etc. This has been for his special benefit.

-I have kept an account of the distance we have traveled for over 800

-miles of the journey, attended to the measurement of the road, kept

-the distances from creek to creek and from one encampment to another;

-put up a guide board every ten miles from Fort John to this place with

-the assistance of Philo Johnson. I have mapped some for Dr. Richards

-and keeping my own journal forms the whole benefit to be derived by

-my family by this mission. I have yet considerable to write in Elder

-Kimball's journal before I return. I am expected to keep a table of

-distances of the whole route returning from here to Winter Quarters and

-make a map when I get through, and this for public benefit. Now how

-much am I considered to be in debt, and how often will it be said that

-I was furnished by others with victuals, clothing, etc., that I might

-enjoy this journey as a mission of pleasure. I have spent most of this

-day calculating the height of this spot above the level of the sea for

-Elder Pratt.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, August 11</h3>

-

-<p>Early this morning, a large company of the Utah Indians came to

-visit the camp and it was with difficulty they could be kept outside

-the wagons. There are few of them who have any clothing on except

-the breech clout and are mostly of low stature. They have scarcely

-anything to trade and not many women and children with them. They are

-camped about three miles north of west and supposed to be going north

-hunting. One of them was detected stealing some clothing which lay

-on the bushes to dry, but was made to leave it. When they found they

-were not permitted inside the circle, they soon moved off to their

-camp. The brethren have commenced laying the adobe wall today which

-will be twenty-seven inches thick and nine feet high. The adobes are

-18 inches long, 9 inches broad and 4½ inches thick. The brethren in

-camp have finished the skiff and launched her in the creek to soak.

-About five o'clock, a child of Therlkill's was found in the creek

-south of the camp drowned. Various efforts were made to restore it but

-unsuccessfully. The child was about three years old and its parents

-mourn the accident bitterly. The day has been very hot, but as usual,

-at sundown we have a strong, cool wind from the northeast.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, August 12</h3>

-

-<p>Spent the forenoon with Elder Pratt in taking observations to ascertain

-the height of the temple block above the Utah outlet which he found to

-be sixty-five feet. The altitude one mile up the creek above the temple

-block is 214 feet and the altitude of the temple block above the level

-of the sea is 4,300 feet. The latitude 40° 45' 50". The blacksmiths are

-very busy shoeing oxen and there is prospect that the ox teams will

-start back on Monday or Tuesday. The soldiers are getting dissatisfied

-at being kept here so long from their families and yesterday several of

-them left the camp secretly to go to Winter Quarters and this morning

-others are gone, but it is probable that President Young knows nothing

-of it yet although about a dozen are already gone and others are

-preparing to follow them. On Tuesday President Young laid a foundation

-for four houses; Elder Kimball four, Colonel Markham one, Dr. Richards

-one, and Lorenzo Young two, and today Dr. Richards has laid the

-foundation of another, George A. Smith two and Wilford Woodruff two,

-making a total of seventeen houses mostly fourteen feet wide and from

-twelve to seventeen long. Elder Kimball has his house four logs high.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, August 13</h3>

-

-<p>Spent the day mostly writing. The brethren have got 130 bushels of salt

-with twenty-four hours labor.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, August 14</h3>

-

-<p>Started at 8:40 in company with a number of others for the Salt Lake.

-We arrived at three o'clock and estimated the distance twenty-two

-miles. We all bathed in it and found the reports of those who had

-previously bathed in no ways exaggerated. We returned back to the river

-where we arrived at eleven o'clock at the beginning of a light thunder

-shower. There is no pure fresh water between the river and the lake.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, August 15</h3>

-

-<p>President Young preached on the death of little children, etc. Evening

-the company composing those who are returning with the ox teams met

-and voted that Shadrach Roundy and Tunis Rappleyee be captains. They

-received instructions to start tomorrow and travel leisurely to Grand

-Island and there wait for the last company of horse teams. J. C.

-Little and company returned yesterday from Utah Lake, and this morning

-the exploring company returned.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, August 16</h3>

-

-<p>Spent most of the day fixing the roadometer, also finished marking the

-distances, camping places,, etc., on Dr. Richards' map from Devil's

-gate to Little Sandy. Evening took the wagon in company with Jackson

-Redding and Howard Egan to the warm spring to try the roadometer. We

-found the distance to be one and a half miles. Most of the company of

-ox teams have started today for Winter Quarters. They will go to the

-canyon and wait there till morning. After dark, Elder Kimball called a

-number of us together in the tent and each one present selected a lot

-for himself and family. I had previously selected lots 1, 7 and 8 on

-block 95, but President Young broke into our arrangements and wished 7

-and 8 reserved, consequently I made choice of lots 1, 2 and 3 on block

-95.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, August 17</h3>

-

-<p>Started out at 8:10 and found the distance to the mouth of the canyon

-five miles, the difference arising from making a road across instead

-of following the first one. One and three quarters of a mile farther

-arrived at where the company had camped for the night and found them

-all ready to start, only waiting for President Young to arrive and give

-some instructions, but he sent word he should not come and we started

-forward. Elders Kimball and Richards soon overtook the company, gave

-some instructions, then returned and the company moved on. On arriving

-at Birch Spring, we encamped for the night, having traveled thirteen

-and a half miles. There is considerable danger of cattle miring near

-the spring and several have already had to be pulled out. This company

-consists of seventy-one men with thirty-three wagons. After camping,

-the brethren were called together by Captain Roundy for the purpose

-of organizing. He briefly stated the manner of the organization of

-the camp when we left Winter Quarters and it was unanimously voted to

-organize after the same pattern which was done as follows:</p>

-

-<h3>1st Division</h3>

-

-<p>1st Ten</p>

-

-<p>Joseph Skeen, Captain<br>

-  Wm. Burt<br>

-  Artemas Johnson<br>

-  James Dunn<br>

-  James Cazier<br>

-  Joseph Shipley<br>

-  Geo. Cummings<br>

-  Samuel Badham<br>

-  Thos. Richardson<br>

-  Roswell Stevens</p>

-

-<p>2nd Ten</p>

-

-<p>Zebedee Coltrin, Captain<br>

-  Wm. Bird<br>

-  Chester Loveland<br>

-  Josiah Curtis<br>

-  Lorenzo Babcock<br>

-  John S. Eldridge<br>

-  Samuel H. Marble<br>

-  Horace Thornton<br>

-  Geo. Scholes</p>

-

-<p>3rd Ten</p>

-

-<p>Francis Boggs, Captain<br>

-  Geo. Wardle<br>

-  Sylvester H. Earl<br>

-  Seeley Owens<br>

-  Almon M. Williams<br>

-  Clark Stillman</p>

-

-<p>Tunis Rappleyee, Captain of 1st Division. James Cazier Captain of Guard

-in 1st Division.</p>

-

-<h3>2nd Division</h3>

-

-<p>1st Ten</p>

-

-<p>Jackson Redding, Captain<br>

-  Robert Biard<br>

-  Wm. Carpenter<br>

-  Benj. W. Rolfe<br>

-  Henry W. Sanderson<br>

-  Thos. Cloward<br>

-  Bailey Jacobs<br>

-  Lisbon Lamb<br>

-  John Pack<br>

-  Wm. Clayton</p>

-

-<p>2nd Ten</p>

-

-<p>John H. Tippets, Captain<br>

-  Lyman Stevens<br>

-  Francis T. Whitney<br>

-  Lyman Curtis<br>

-  James Stewart<br>

-  John S. Gleason<br>

-  Chas. A. Burke<br>

-  Myron Tanner<br>

-  Wm. McLellan<br>

-  Rufus Allen<br>

-  Norman Taylor</p>

-

-<p>3rd Ten</p>

-

-<p>Allen Cumpton, Captain<br>

-  Franklin Allen<br>

-  John Bybee<br>

-  David Garner<br>

-  J. Averett<br>

-  Harmon D. Persons<br>

-  John G. Smith<br>

-  Solomon Tindal<br>

-  Philip Garner<br>

-  Chas. Hopkins<br>

-  Barnabas Lake</p>

-

-<p>4th Ten</p>

-

-<p>Andrew J. Shoop, Captain<br>

-  Albert Clark<br>

-  Francillo Durfee<br>

-  James Hendrickson<br>

-  Erastus Bingham<br>

-  John Calvert<br>

-  Loren Kenney<br>

-  Daniel Miller<br>

-  Benj. Roberts<br>

-  Luther W. Glazier<br>

-  Jarvis Johnson<br>

-  Thos. Bingham</p>

-

-<p>Shadrack Roundy, Captain of 2nd Division. John Gleason, Captain of

-Guard.</p>

-

-<p>The soldiers were numbered with the 2nd Division, 3rd and 4th tens.</p>

-

-<p>Those who have horses to ride were then numbered and their duty pointed

-out, which is to lead the way and fix the road where it needs it; look

-out camping places; drive the loose cattle and hunt for the camp. Their

-names are as follows: John Pack, Captain, Samuel Badham, Francillo

-Durfee, Benj. Roberts, Thomas Bingham, James Hendrickson, John

-Eldridge, R. I. Redding, Seeley Owens, Barnabas Lake, Wm. Bird,

-Daniel Miller, James Cazier.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, August 18</h3>

-

-<p>We had a little rain this morning and the air very cool. We started at

-8:00 a.m. and found the road rough indeed. When ascending the mountain

-from Brown's Creek, most of the teams had to double, it generally

-requiring six yoke of oxen to bring up an empty wagon. The descent is

-also very rough and especially where the road crosses the dry creek

-which is a great many times. Canyon Creek appeared rougher than when we

-first went up it and it took till near night to get to the end of the

-creek, having traveled only fifteen and three quarters miles during the

-day.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, August 19</h3>

-

-<p>We got started again about 8:00 a.m., all except Chas. A. Burke. One of

-his oxen was missing. Before noon several of the loose cattle gave out

-through being over driven. We arrived and camped on Red Mountain Creek

-at six o'clock, having traveled sixteen and a quarter miles. The day

-has been very hot but nights are very cold.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, August 20</h3>

-

-<p>Morning very cold. Started out at seven and traveled till 12:30, the

-day being cool, then rested and baited an hour. At 1:30 proceeded again

-and arrived at Cache or Reddings Cave at 5:00 p.m., having traveled

-twenty and a half miles, but it was nearly seven o'clock before the

-company arrived.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, August 21</h3>

-

-<p>Started at 7:30 a.m. and traveled till 12:00 then baited an hour. We

-found Bear River not over fifteen inches deep. We camped on Sulphur

-Creek at five o'clock having traveled sixteen and a half miles and

-after camping I went with the brethren to fill their tar buckets at

-the oil spring. We followed a wagon trail made by a part of Hasting's

-company last year about a mile and found the spring situated in a

-ravine a little to the left of the road just at the edge of a high

-bench of land. The ground is black over with the oil for several rods

-but it is baked hard by exposure to the sun. It is difficult to get

-the clear oil, most of it being filled with dust and gravel. It smells

-much like British oil and is said to do well for greasing wagons. John

-Gleason has found a coal bed in the edge of the mountain across the

-creek. The coal looks good and burns freely.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, August 22</h3>

-

-<p>Many of the cattle were missing this morning but after much search were

-found about four miles southwest from camp. We started at nine o'clock

-and traveled till one, then halted an hour at the copperas spring. Most

-of the wagons halted at the spring four miles back. The water of this

-spring is not bad, cattle drink it freely. At two o'clock we began to

-ascend the ridge and at five formed our camp near the Muddy fork having

-traveled seventeen and three quarters miles, the day cool and cloudy.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, August 23</h3>

-

-<p>We started early this morning and arrived at Fort Bridger at one

-o'clock. We found the grass pretty much eaten off and only stayed an

-hour and a half while some of the brethren traded some, then went

-on eight miles farther and camped on a stream two rods wide, having

-traveled twenty-one and a half miles, the day very cool.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, August 24</h3>

-

-<p>This morning many of the cattle had strayed several miles from camp

-which prevented our starting till eight o'clock. We traveled eight and

-a half miles, then halted an hour on Black's Fork. We proceeded again

-and had a pretty heavy thunder shower and arrived at Ham's Fork at

-5:20, then camped for the night, having traveled twenty-three miles.

-Most of the wagons did not arrive till nearly night, but we had no

-place to camp short of this and here we have good range for cattle.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, August 25</h3>

-

-<p>We traveled today twenty-three miles and camped on Green River. We

-found several places where the road is shortened some, but it is yet

-about sixteen miles from water to water.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, August 26</h3>

-

-<p>Started at eight o'clock and went on to the Big Sandy and before the

-majority of the company arrived, E. T. Benson and escort came up

-with letters from the companies. They say there are nine companies

-between here and the Platte with 566 wagons and about 5,000 head of

-stock. They report the companies well and getting along tolerably fast,

-some they expect we shall meet within three days. After eating they

-proceeded on. After sundown a large party of mounted Indians came up,

-and camped on the opposite side the river. They have been on the Sweet

-Water hunting and are said to be of the Shoshone tribe.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, August 27</h3>

-

-<p>Many of the brethren traded sugar, powder, lead, etc., to the Indians

-for robes and skins and meat. We started soon after seven and traveled

-to the crossing of the Big Sandy. Then after halting an hour, continued

-to the Little Sandy, making twenty-five and a quarter miles today, but

-it was nine o'clock before some of the wagons arrived. The feed is

-mostly eaten up on the creeks near the road and there is none except on

-the banks of streams. Bailey Jacobs killed a large antelope which is a

-matter of rejoicing as we are nearly out of bread stuff and had little

-meat for several days. We started back from the valley with 8 lbs. of

-flour, 9 lbs. of meal and a few beans each, and we have to depend on

-getting meat on the road for the rest. I was told there were 25 lbs. of

-flour put up for me, but I find it is not so.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, August 28</h3>

-

-<p>Started at eight o'clock and traveled till half past three before

-halting when we arrived at the crossing of the Pacific creek and halted

-to camp for the night having traveled twenty-three miles. There is no

-grass from Little Sandy to this place except a very little on Dry Sandy

-but the water there has some taste of alkali and teams do not like it.

-Here there is considerable grass along the creek and very good water

-but no wood except wild sage. We had a heavy thunder shower about four

-o'clock and considerable hail. It was dark before the ox teams arrived.

-Some of the men had killed a buffalo a few miles back, but it is very

-poor.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, August 29</h3>

-

-<p>It was decided to remain here today to rest the teams, but our ten

-obtained leave to go on to Sweet Water, expecting to meet the company,

-and after reading the letter of instructions from the council to

-this camp, my wagon proceeded on slowly. At the Springs, we saw

-an aged Indian squaw near the road dwelling in a shelter composed

-merely of wild sage and apparently dependent on passing emigrants

-for subsistence. She is doubtless left to perish on account of age

-and infirmity, but it is likely she will live some time on what she

-receives from those who pass by. When we arrived near the summit of the

-dividing ridge or south pass, two Indians rode towards us and motioned

-for us to stop. Not seeing the other wagons coming after, we stopped to

-wait for the wagons and the Indians soon arrived. They made signs that

-a large party of them were over the mountain north and they wanted to

-"swap." While they were conversing a number more rode over the ridge

-and soon after a still larger number. About this time the wagons came

-in sight and when the brethren saw so many Indians they were alarmed.

-John Pack rode back to the main camp to get some of the brethren to

-come up, but J. R. said he would not budge a foot. The brethren

-behind were much alarmed, some expecting to be scalped and one W. Carr

-ran and hid himself in the sage bushes. No one returned with John Pack

-but Norman Taylor and the wagons proceeded towards us. In the meantime,

-after learning the object for which the Indians sought us, that none of

-them were armed except two, and by a certificate that the first visitor

-was a Shoshone chief, Brother Lamb and myself signified that we would

-trade with them and soon some of them returned with antelope, buck and

-elk skins and robes to trade. I traded some balls and a little powder

-for one robe, one elk skin, two buckskins and nine antelope skins and

-a pair of moccasins. Lamb bought five antelope skins. While we were

-trading, the other wagons arrived and also commenced trading. The

-Indians, about sixty in number, about twenty of them boys, all mounted,

-seemed highly pleased to trade with us which we did mostly through the

-chief. By request of the chief, I gave him a certificate stating that

-he appeared friendly and wanted to trade with the whites, etc. The

-chief gave us a very strong invitation to go to their camp to trade and

-made signs that they would feed us well and we should sleep with them.

-I answered him by signs that we should camp when we arrived where the

-road crossed the Sweet Water but they were very anxious to have us then

-turn off the road and camp. After we started, the chief came up and

-wanted to swap a good mule for my spy glass but I refused. I had let

-him look through it and he seemed very wishful to try it. When they saw

-we were determined to go on, they left us and returned to their camp

-while we pursued our journey to the first crossing of Sweet Water where

-we arrived and camped at six o'clock, having traveled fourteen miles.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, August 30</h3>

-

-<p>This morning the cattle belonging to the camp behind came to us early,

-having strayed away. John Pack and Bailey Jacobs went to drive them

-back and to trade some with the Indians. We calculated to go on about

-eleven miles but before we started, Father Eldridge came up with his

-wagon and said he expected Spencer's 1st 50 company up soon. We then

-concluded to stay here until they arrived and about three o'clock,

-their wagons began to cross the creek. I was glad to find Aaron and

-Loren Farr, and William Walker in this company with their families all

-well and in good spirits. From Sister Olivia, I received some articles

-sent by my family which were very acceptable indeed and made me feel

-grateful. This company all appear well and cheerful and are not much

-troubled on account of lack of teams. I spent the evening with Loren

-and their families. The balance of our camp arrived before dark.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, August 31</h3>

-

-<p>Our camp except this ten has started on, but Brother Spencer has

-concluded to halt here today and I spent the day copying tables of

-distances for Loren and also gave him a plot of the city.</p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-18>September 1847</h2>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, September 1</h3>

-

-<p>We bid farewell to Brother Spencer's company and proceeded on. After

-traveling about a mile, we met P. P. Pratt going to see Brother

-Spencer and to get some cattle. He says some of the back companies

-have lost many head and can scarcely move. A few miles farther we met

-the 2nd 50 of Spencer's company. We traveled till nearly dark and

-camped with the returning pioneers at the cold spring, having traveled

-twenty-two and a quarter miles. The day fine and pleasant. We find the

-grass pretty much eaten off all the way. John G. Smith was appointed

-captain of the 2nd division in place of Shadrach Roundy who returns.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, September 2</h3>

-

-<p>Started about eight o'clock and after traveling two miles passed

-Russell's company of 50 and about five miles farther we passed Elder

-Rich's 50 and G. B. Wallace's 50. They all agree to the health and

-prosperity of their companies but have lost many cattle and have had

-hard work to get along. We passed Captains Foutz and Hone on this long

-drive with their companies all well, but complaining much for lack of

-teams. I conversed some with Edward Hunter and Elder Taylor. Brother

-Hunter will give cash for some cattle if he can buy them. We arrived on

-Sweet Water at six o'clock but the ox teams did not get in till eight

-o'clock, having traveled twenty-four and a half miles. The evening was

-very cold, windy and like for rain. Brother Roundy returned back to the

-valley this morning, having met his family.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, September 3</h3>

-

-<p>We started on this morning following the new road at the north side

-of the Sweet Water, the road sandy in places but much better than the

-old road. After traveling about two miles, we saw a lone buffalo about

-two miles to the south. John Pack and Lisbon Lamb went to try to kill

-him and finally succeeded, on which our ten halted and sent back a

-wagon for the meat which detained us about three hours, after which we

-proceeded again. A little before the road fords the river the second

-time, there is an alkali lake a little north from the road. We joined

-the company and also met J. B. Noble's company where the road

-joins the old one again. Brother Noble's company are all well and not

-so bad off for teams as some of the other companies. We proceeded on a

-few miles farther and met J. M. Grant with Willard Snow's 50 which

-is the last company on the road. Brother Grant had a child die last

-night and his wife is yet very sick and not much expected to recover.

-This company have lost many cattle and are so bad off for teams as not

-to be able to travel more than ten miles a day which would make it some

-day in October before they get through. We went on nearly two miles

-farther, then camped for the night near Bitter Cottonwood creek, having

-traveled fifteen and three quarters miles. Most of the company camped

-back with Brother Snow's company.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, September 4</h3>

-

-<p>We started late this morning and traveled over a very sandy road till

-five o'clock, then camped on Ravine Creek, having traveled sixteen

-miles.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, September 5</h3>

-

-<p>There being alkali springs near, we concluded to go to Independence

-Rock at which place we arrived about three o'clock having traveled

-twelve and a half miles. Soon after we camped, Lamb and Jacob Cloward

-went to chase some buffalo and succeeded in killing one. I walked over

-the rock and had some solemn meditations and felt to humble myself and

-call upon the Lord for myself and family, for this company, the twelve

-and all the companies on the road. Experience has taught me many maxims

-of late and I intend to profit by them. Be not hasty to promise, lest

-thy promise be considered worthless. Make not many promises without

-reflection, lest thou fail to fulfill them and it dampen the confidence

-of thy friend. If thou promise many things and regard not to fulfill

-them and it damp the confidence of thy friend, then be assured that thy

-friends will despise thy promises and have no dependence in them. Seek

-not to speculate out of a good brother.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, September 6</h3>

-

-<p>This morning the cattle were found down the Sweet Water about six miles

-from camp which made it late before we started. While passing the

-alkali lakes, a number of the brethren filled the bags with saleratus.

-We found the road very sandy to Greasewood Creek and after that it was

-somewhat better. About three o'clock the wind began to blow very strong

-and cold and we had heavy rain for about two hours.</p>

-

-<p>We proceeded on and arrived at the Willow Spring a little before dark

-in the midst of a heavy shower of rain. Thomas Cloward left one of the

-old oxen sent back by Wallace on the road. It died before morning.

-All except our ten and William's stayed back at Greasewood Creek. We

-tried in vain to make a fire but finally went to bed wet and cold,

-having eaten nothing since morning. Some of the teamsters have only a

-light summer coat with them and they suffer considerably. We traveled

-twenty-one and a half miles today.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, September 7</h3>

-

-<p>This morning our cattle were all missing and it still rains and snows

-very heavily. Pack and T. Cloward started early on foot to hunt the

-cattle but after following them over seven miles in the storm and

-seeing that they had kept on the road towards the Platte river, they

-returned to camp. It rained and snowed heavily till eleven o'clock at

-which time the balance of the camp arrived. John Pack asked the company

-to let us have some of their loose cattle to bring on our wagons till

-we overtook ours again, but the captains both generously refused for

-some cause or other. However, some of the brethren took their cattle

-out of their teams and let us have them and we moved onward. After

-traveling about thirteen miles we saw our cattle about four miles to

-the left of the road at the foot of a mountain. We halted and Lamb took

-one of the mules to fetch the cattle to the road. Soon after Pack and

-Jackson Redding came up and learning that we had found the cattle, they

-started to them to drive them to camp and Lamb being relieved, returned

-to the wagon. We harnessed up and arrived at the mineral spring about

-six o'clock, having traveled sixteen and a quarter miles. This spring

-has been represented as poisonous but if it is so, it must be in

-consequence of minerals under the water. The water has no bad taste

-till the cattle trample in it. It then becomes almost black as ink and

-this is probably what makes it poisonous.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, September 8</h3>

-

-<p>We started at eight o'clock and arrived at the Upper Platte ferry soon

-after twelve o'clock. We found N. Jacobs and company there hunting.

-We forded the river and found it about two feet deep in the channel.

-We halted on the banks about two hours at which time the whole camp

-arrived. We then proceeded on. The main company went about five miles

-but we went till we found a good camping place in a grove of timber on

-the banks of the river where the road runs through, then halted for

-night, having traveled nineteen miles.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, September 9</h3>

-

-<p>This morning Norton Jacob's company joined us at eight o'clock and

-we moved forward. Found the road rough, it being cut up by the other

-companies in wet weather. We arrived on Deer Creek about sundown and

-camped for the night, having traveled twenty-two and a quarter miles.

-The day fine and very pleasant. Joseph Hancock killed an elk which the

-brethren packed to camp on horseback about sixteen miles.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, September 10</h3>

-

-<p>We have had a strong southwest wind all night and the morning is

-somewhat cool. We started a little before eight o'clock and had good

-traveling. We saw many herds of buffalo but the hunters did not get

-any while passing. We arrived at the river A La Perle at three o'clock

-and camped for the night having traveled seventeen and a half miles.

-A while before dark, some of the men came in with a part of a buffalo

-which they killed. Lewis Barney also killed a young one which was

-considerably fat. The meat was all packed in on horses. One of the men

-killed a wolf out of which we got considerable grease for the wagons.

-It was decided to have a guard each night the remainder of the journey,

-every man to stand in his turn, four each night.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, September 11</h3>

-

-<p>Got up at twelve o'clock and stood guard till daylight. The morning

-very fine and pleasant. Three of the brethren arrived from the camp

-back and said that during the night before last the Indians had

-stolen sixteen or seventeen of their horses and they were in pursuit

-of them. We were detained some on account of several of the horses

-having rambled off, but about nine o'clock we started on and traveled

-to the La Bonte River, distance nineteen and a half miles. There are

-many buffalo around here also and although we have plenty of meat, the

-brethren continue to kill them. We find the feed eaten off bare almost

-every place we come to and it is difficult to find grass to sustain our

-teams.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, September 12</h3>

-

-<p>We traveled this day seventeen and three quarters miles and camped

-by Heber's Spring on Horseshoe Creek. We found the spring had ceased

-running but there was water in the creek a little north. The roadometer

-has broken down today over the same ground it broke as we went west.

-Our bread stuff is now out and we have to live solely on meat the

-balance of the journey. John Pack has got flour enough to last him

-through. We have all messed together until ours was eaten, and now John

-Pack proposes for each man to mess by himself. He has concealed his

-flour and beans together with tea, coffee, sugar, etc., and cooks after

-the rest have gone to bed. Such things seem worthy of remembrance for a

-time to come.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, September 13</h3>

-

-<p>We fixed the roadometer this morning, then traveled to Dead Timber

-Creek, distance fifteen miles. Here we find good feed and plenty of

-wood and water.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, September 14</h3>

-

-<p>Started at nine o'clock and traveled till about five, then camped on

-the Platte River, having traveled twenty-four and a quarter miles. In

-consequence of some things which have passed and some which at present

-exist, I have concluded to go on as fast as circumstances will permit

-to Winter Quarters and I intend to start tomorrow. Some have opposed

-it, but not with a good grace. However, I have no fears that the

-council will censure me when they know the cause. If they do, I will

-bear the censure in preference to what I now bear. Before dark Luke

-Johnson, William A. Empey and Appleton Harmon came up from Laramie,

-having learned from an Indian that wagons were near. They say that a

-party of Sioux warriors have got the brethren's horses, seventeen in

-number, on the Raw Hide, about eighteen miles north. They say that

-about fifty armed men might go and probably get them, but not fewer.

-The Sioux are at war with the Crows and Pawnees and reports say that

-there is a large party of the Pawnees a little down the river.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, September 15</h3>

-

-<p>We started a little after eight, forded the Platte without any

-difficulty and at three o'clock concluded to stop for the night, having

-traveled twenty-one and a quarter miles over very sandy road. The ox

-teams have kept nearly up with us and it is evident they intend to keep

-with us or kill their teams, and being aware that if the teams are

-injured we shall be blamed for it, we have given up going ahead to save

-the teams.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, September 16</h3>

-

-<p>Today we traveled nineteen and a half miles over good road and camped

-near the river amongst good grass.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, September 17</h3>

-

-<p>This morning Thomas Brown, Ezra Beckstead, Mathew Welch, Benjamin

-Roberts, David Perkins and William Bird started to go through to Winter

-Quarters in consequence of having no bread. We traveled nineteen and

-three quarters miles and camped again on the Platte. The road very good.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, September 18</h3>

-

-<p>Last night John Pack's gray horse was stolen from his wagon. He lays

-it to the brethren ahead and with Norton Jacobs and Joseph Hancock has

-heaped a pretty long string of severe abusive language on them which

-I consider to be premature, unjustifiable and wicked. Two Frenchmen

-came to the camp and said they were camped below on a trading excursion

-among the Sioux. Inasmuch as some of the brethren wanted to trade with

-them, it was concluded to move down opposite to them. We accordingly

-traveled four and a quarter miles then again camped on the banks of the

-river and the brethren bought a number of buffalo robes, etc. Norton

-Jacobs bought five robes for seven common calico shirts.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, September 19</h3>

-

-<p>The traders say they will move down the river today to where there are

-plenty of buffalo. Our camp also traveled ten and three quarters miles

-and camped a little below Chimney Rock. There are many herds of buffalo

-around and Lewis Barney killed one which will give us a little fresh

-meat. The weather has been very fine and warm for some days past. This

-evening there are some signs of stormy weather.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, September 20</h3>

-

-<p>Today we traveled seven and a quarter miles, the day very hot. We

-turned off the road to camp at Rubidoos' request while they killed some

-buffalo. They gave us some very nice meat.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, September 21</h3>

-

-<p>We have concluded to wait here until the balance of the company

-arrives. Afternoon went over the river and had a good feast on buffalo

-ribs with the Frenchmen. The victuals were cooked by a squaw but looked

-much cleaner than our men cook it. Evening it became cloudy and soon

-followed by cold rain which continued till two o'clock.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, September 22</h3>

-

-<p>At one o'clock, I got up to stand guard and found the night extremely

-cold and unpleasant on account of rain. The morning is cloudy and cold.

-The wagons have not yet come in sight which makes us think there is

-something the matter with them.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, September 23</h3>

-

-<p>Today Jackson Redding and Sanderson went back to see if they could see

-the other wagons. They returned at night and said the company were

-within a few miles having been detained at Laramie to recover their

-horses, most of which they got. They state that news has come to the

-fort by a Sioux Indian that the twelve and their company had all their

-horses stolen at the Pacific Springs during a snow storm. The Sioux

-stole them supposing them to belong to the Shoshones. The man that

-brought the news stole seventeen but lost eight in the mountains, the

-remainder he brought to Laramie and the brethren there knew some of

-them and demanded them. He gave them up, at least all they could prove

-and four of the brethren started with them to meet the twelve. The

-Indian says there were nine of them who stole the horses.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, September 24</h3>

-

-<p>We resumed our journey this morning and traveled thirteen and a half

-miles, then camped where the road runs close to the river. The weather

-is again fine and hot in the day time but the nights are cold and

-frosty. Joseph Hancock killed a buffalo cow and John Norton an antelope

-which will supply the company with a little meat each, most of whom are

-without.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, September 25</h3>

-

-<p>The day cloudy and some like for a storm. We made an early start and

-traveled to Crab Creek, distance twenty and a quarter miles then

-camped for the night. The land on both sides the river is literally

-spotted with vast herds of buffalo, but our hunters are not very lucky

-as yet. From the fact of there being so many buffalo in this region,

-we are inclined to believe we shall see but few lower down and this

-is probably the best chance we will have to lay in a supply to last

-us home. During the afternoon, Joseph Hancock killed a buffalo cow

-and Captain Rappleyee sent a wagon to fetch the meat to camp. When it

-arrived John Pack took the hind quarters and the best meat off the rest

-of the cow, together with all the tallow, then sent for Rappleyee to

-take what he had left and divide it amongst the company. When Rappleyee

-saw what he had done, he felt angry and Pack and he had some high words

-on the subject. Brother Pack's conduct has caused many unpleasant

-feelings against him among the brethren. He takes all the tallow he can

-lay his hands on, and all the best meat and has now got more than will

-serve him home while many of the rest have scarcely any and that of

-the poorest pieces. He has plenty of flour, meal, beans, tea, coffee,

-sugar, etc., while most of the camp are destitute of everything but

-meat, and while he continues to take the tallow and best of the meat

-there will be hard feelings against him. He has disgraced himself in

-the estimation of many within the past few days. I do not think I can

-ever forget him for his treatment of me, but I cherish no malice nor

-feelings of revenge, but I hope and pray that I may forever have wisdom

-to keep from under his power. There have been six or eight buffalo

-killed by the camp and it is intended to stay here tomorrow and try to

-get meat to last us through as it is not likely we shall have another

-privilege as good as this. Most of the camp now begin to feel that it

-is necessary for us to make our way home as fast as possible to save

-our teams and escape the cold rain and snowstorms.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, September 26</h3>

-

-<p>Many of the brethren are gone out hunting. The weather continues fine

-and warm. In the afternoon we had a strong northwest wind. During the

-day the second division killed more than enough meat to last them home,

-but were totally unwilling to let the first division have any although

-they killed none, not having but two or three guns in the division.

-This also has tended to increase the feeling of envy and bitterness

-which already exists too much. Thomas Cloward has manifested feelings

-and conduct worse than the general run of gentiles and unworthy of a

-saint. He seems to have drunk into Pack's spirit for they act very much

-alike.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, September 27</h3>

-

-<p>Those of the first division who have no meat have concluded to move

-on a few miles to where there are more buffalo as they have mostly

-left here, but the second division will not move till they have dried

-their meat some. We went on three miles and then camped where there

-are plenty of buffalo over the river. Lisbon Lamb, Lewis Barney and

-John Norton volunteered to go and kill what meat they can for those who

-have none. They have got enough to last them through. It is said that

-our coming down here has given feelings but it is plain and evident

-that there are several men who will find fault and deal out wholesale

-censure whatever is done, and for my part I shall remember John Pack,

-Thomas Cloward, Norton Jacobs and Joseph Hancock for some time to come.

-Such little, selfish, unmanly conduct as has been manifested by them,

-is rarely exhibited except by the meanest classes of society. A man who

-will openly and boldly steal is honorable when compared with some of

-their underhanded conduct. During the day the brethren killed five cows

-and one bull which are considered sufficient to last the first division

-home.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, September 28</h3>

-

-<p>We waited till after nine o'clock for the second division to come up

-but not being yet in sight we moved onward, traveled seventeen and a

-half miles, then camped on Sand Hill Creek about a mile from the river.

-We have seen more buffalo today than I ever saw in one day, supposed to

-be not less than 200,000. We had some trouble to make a road through

-them safely. We also saw two horses with the herd. Jackson Redding went

-to try and catch them but found them perfectly wild.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, September 29</h3>

-

-<p>We got an early start this morning and traveled till four o'clock,

-distance twenty and a quarter miles. We camped near the river in high

-grass. The road has run close to the river all day except a few miles

-beyond Castle Creek and although the ground is perfectly dry, it is

-very rough, it having been cut up in wet weather. Watch and Wolfe

-Creeks had abundance of water in them, as much as when we went up.

-Castle River was about a foot deep. We have not seen many buffalo today

-but after we camped, John Norton shot two at one shot. L. Barney also

-killed a young cow. The weather is yet fine and very warm.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, September 30</h3>

-

-<p>This day we traveled only sixteen and a quarter miles, then camped a

-quarter of a mile east of Rattlesnake Creek on the banks of the river.

-In this creek, there is still a very heavy current of water running. It

-appears that some of the brethren left their fires burning this morning

-and the prairie has caught fire and is still burning furiously.</p>

-

-<h2 id=calibre_link-23>October 1847</h2>

-

-<h3>Friday, October 1</h3>

-

-<p>This morning I wrote a short letter and left it in a post for the

-company behind. We traveled twenty miles and camped on Bluff Creek. The

-day fine and very warm.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, October 2</h3>

-

-<p>This morning we calculated to travel eleven miles, but on arriving at

-the North Bluff fork, we found no grass and were compelled to continue

-on. We traveled till the road strikes the river and some grass, then

-camped, having traveled eighteen and a half miles. Three buffalo have

-been killed today and there are considerable in this region. Two of the

-oxen gave out and had to be left on the road.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, October 3</h3>

-

-<p>This morning we traveled four and a quarter miles, then camped opposite

-some islands where there is pretty good feed and willows. The day has

-been exceedingly warm and the brethren have dried a good quantity of

-meat. Considerable anxiety and feeling has originated in the breasts

-of two or three brethren in consequence of a rumor being circulated

-which deeply concerns one individual but it is not known whom. In the

-evening, a strong north wind blew up which made it turn very cool.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, October 4</h3>

-

-<p>Cool and pleasant. We traveled twenty and three quarters miles and

-found that the last company have made a new road near the bluffs to

-avoid a very bad slough. We went a little on the old road and then

-struck across to the new road but had considerable difficulty in

-crossing the slough. We camped beside a small lake of not very good

-water and several miles from timber.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, October 5</h3>

-

-<p>Pleasant day. We traveled nineteen miles, then turned off the road

-about a half a mile to camp near a small bunch of timber. The brethren

-have killed a good many buffalo today. They are very plentiful here,

-and wolves abundant.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, October 6</h3>

-

-<p>The largest part of the company again concluded to tarry a day again

-although there is little feed here. Some determined to go on a piece

-and amongst the rest, I felt more willing to go on than to tarry.

-Accordingly eleven wagons started, viz. Jackson Redding, William

-A. Empey, Lewis Barney, Roswell Stevens, Cummings, Joseph Hancock,

-H. W. Sanderson, John Pack, Thos. Cloward, Zebedee Coltrin and

-Norton Jacobs. We traveled seventeen and a half miles and then turned

-off the road about a half a mile to camp.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, October 7</h3>

-

-<p>We started a little before 10:00 a.m. and traveled till nearly dark and

-had then to run over a mile from the road to camp. We traveled nineteen

-and a quarter miles. Wind very strong from the north and a very cold

-day.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, October 8</h3>

-

-<p>Just as we started this morning, twelve or fifteen Indians were seen

-running over the river towards us. They soon came up to the wagons

-which were somewhat scattered and although they shook hands, they

-showed savage hostility. Four of the oxen were not yet yoked up; these

-they drove off from the wagons which now began to draw together.

-They soon satisfied us that they were bent on robbing us and without

-ceremony took Jack Redding's horse from behind the wagon. Lamb went to

-take it from them and seized the lariat which another immediately cut

-with his knife. Lamb then got on the horse, but no sooner on than two

-Indians pulled him off and marched off with the horse. They stole Jack

-Redding's knife out of its sheath and one from John Pack. They also

-tried to get Jack off the horse he was riding, but he kept his seat.

-They tried Skeen's horse but he kicked one of them over. The Indians

-then tried to get the men out of their wagons so that they might get

-in and plunder, but every man kept in his wagon to guard it and we

-concluded to turn about and go back to the company. We accordingly

-started and the Indians turned back towards the timber with the horse,

-four oxen, two knives and a sack of salt. After traveling back about

-six miles, we met the company, told the story and bore their slang and

-insults without saying much, but not without thinking a great deal.

-The whole company were then formed in two lines. All the arms were

-loaded and each man that could raise a gun was ordered to walk beside

-the wagons, the horsemen to go ahead. We then proceeded on and when

-we came opposite to where we met with the Indians, the horsemen went

-down and found the oxen where we left them. They brought them and we

-traveled till dark, then camped near the river, having traveled five

-and a quarter miles from last night, exclusive of the distance we went

-back. A strong guard was placed around the cattle and camp and kept up

-through the night. Many hard speeches have passed among the brethren,

-such as "damned hypocrites," "damned liars," "mutineers," etc., and

-most of those who started ahead are ordered to travel in the rear all

-the time. This savage, tyrannical conduct was one thing which induced

-some to leave and undertake to go through alone and more peaceably

-and it will still leave feelings of revenge and hatred which will

-require some time to cover up. Young Babcock shook his fist in Zebedee

-Coltrin's face and damned him and said he could whip him. For my part,

-I shall be glad when I get in more peaceable society, and I think I

-shall not easily be caught in such a scrape again.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, October 9</h3>

-

-<p>We have had no disturbance from Indians. We started at six o'clock and

-went on five miles to get better feed. We then halted for breakfast.

-The remainder of the day's travel was mostly over dog towns. A United

-States soldier came up to the wagons and went with us a few miles. He

-says there are ninety of them on the island surveying and looking out a

-place to build a fort. We traveled seventeen and a quarter miles today,

-then camped near a low bench of land where there is plenty of grass and

-water and willows for fuel. A number of the soldiers came over to camp.

-They say the Pawnees are perfectly enraged and savage and that the

-worst band of between four and five hundred are on the north side the

-Platte about forty miles below.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, October 10</h3>

-

-<p>Morning fine but cold wind. The captains called the camp together and

-asked whether we shall wait here three days or a week for the twelve,

-or shall we continue on to Winter Quarters. Thirty men voted to go on,

-seventeen voted to wait and the remainder did not vote. The majority

-having voted to go on, we started and traveled very slowly till about

-five o'clock, then turned off to the river to camp, having traveled

-sixteen miles. There are many new tracks of Indians on the sand bar,

-but we have seen none today.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, October 11</h3>

-

-<p>Morning, cloudy and cold. We have had a little very cold rain and

-there is great appearance for more. We started on but it continued to

-rain heavily till near noon. The afternoon was fair but very cold. We

-traveled twenty-one and a quarter miles and camped amongst high grass

-close to timber. There is every chance for Indians tonight if any are

-near. The camp in general are much dissatisfied with the camping place.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, October 12</h3>

-

-<p>This morning the weather was severely cold with strong wind. Some of

-the cattle were missing and the owners not going to hunt them till the

-rest were ready to start on, we were detained till eleven o'clock and

-then proceeded. We found plenty of water in Wood River but did not lose

-much time crossing. We took one of the late wagon trails and arrived

-on Prairie Creek a little before sundown, having traveled fifteen and

-three quarters miles. We have seen no Indians yet and all goes well but

-the cold weather.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, October 13</h3>

-

-<p>Morning very cold indeed with strong northwest wind. We found the creek

-difficult to cross, it being soft and miry, but all soon got over

-safely and we proceeded on. The road is sandy about five or six miles

-on the bluffs and very crooked all the way. We arrived and camped on

-the Loup Fork at dark, having traveled twenty-one and three quarters

-miles. The day has been excessively cold.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, October 14</h3>

-

-<p>Much time was lost this morning in hunting for a place to cross the

-river. It was finally concluded to cross a mile higher up and we

-proceeded to the place. While going up we saw a company of horsemen and

-two wagons on the other side the river, which we soon recognized to be

-our brethren from Winter Quarters. All the wagons got over safely and

-camped on the hill, having traveled two miles. The company is a part of

-the old police going to meet the next company. We were gladdened with

-the news they bring from Winter Quarters.</p>

-

-<h3>Friday, October 15</h3>

-

-<p>The brethren of the police started early this morning to go on and meet

-the next company. They got well over the river but not without getting

-into the water to lift at the wagon wheels. It was late when we started

-on account of some oxen being missing and there are some who will not

-look for their cattle till all the rest are ready to start. We traveled

-till a little after three and camped on the banks of the Loup Fork,

-distance twelve and three quarters miles, day warmer.</p>

-

-<h3>Saturday, October 16</h3>

-

-<p>The night has been very stormy, there being a strong wind, rain, and

-very cold. We made an early start and by noon arrived at the mission

-station. We found the Pawnees busy gathering corn, probably nearly a

-thousand of men, women and children. They soon began to come to the

-wagons and their chiefs made inquiries by signs about the Chirrarots

-or Sioux. Some of the brethren gave them to understand that the Sioux

-were within five days of them. The chief immediately gave the word to

-the rest and in half an hour the squaws had loaded their corn on ponies

-and mules and then began to march towards the river. They show great

-fear of the Sioux. They were very anxious to have us camp with them

-tonight but we kept moving on. One of the wagons was upset crossing

-a ravine. Several of the brethren traded for corn. At three o'clock,

-we arrived and turned out the teams on Beaver River, having traveled

-seventeen and a quarter miles. Soon after we arrived, some of the

-Indians came up, having followed with the idea of trading. They have

-conducted themselves peaceably so far, but they are not to be trusted.

-In consequence of their following us, it was the feeling of most of the

-brethren to go on a few miles after dark. At 5:45 we started on and

-traveled till 8:30 being six and a half miles, then camped beside the

-lakes. Evening very fine and pleasant. We have traveled twenty-three

-and three quarters miles today.</p>

-

-<h3>Sunday, October 17</h3>

-

-<p>We started early and traveled to Looking Glass, then halted for

-breakfast. Morning windy and cold. After breakfast, we started on again

-and traveled till four o'clock, distance sixteen and a quarter miles,

-then camped at a point of timber near a creek or lake and not far from

-the Loup Fork.</p>

-

-<h3>Monday, October 18</h3>

-

-<p>Started at eight o'clock and traveled to Shell Creek distance eighteen

-and three quarters miles, day pleasant but cool.</p>

-

-<h3>Tuesday, October 19</h3>

-

-<p>The night was excessively cold and this morning there is considerable

-ice. We got an early start and traveled to where the road leaves the

-river and crosses to the Horn. At this place there is a liberty pole

-set up by some of the brethren. We have traveled today twenty-three and

-a quarter miles and we now find that the grass is all burned off ahead

-of us as far as we can see, probably to the Elk Horn. We are cheered by

-a view of the timber on that stream.</p>

-

-<h3>Wednesday, October 20</h3>

-

-<p>We started early and found the prairie all burned off to the Elk Horn

-except in small patches. We arrived at the Horn about noon and soon

-after commenced crossing where Hosea Stout and company crossed. The

-water was nearly three feet deep and the bottom somewhat soft, but we

-were soon all over without accident except John Pack, who broke his

-wagon tongue. We then had to make a road through high, strong grass for

-upwards of half a mile and found a very bad creek or slough to cross.

-When we again struck the main road, we found it good and started for

-the Papea where we arrived soon after dark, all except one wagon which

-was left a mile back. The evening cool and windy.</p>

-

-<h3>Thursday, October 21</h3>

-

-<p>This morning, Brother Empey, Lamb and myself started early accompanied

-by six horsemen and arrived in Winter Quarters a little before noon.

-I found my family all well except Moroni who is very sick and his

-mother is somewhat sick. Their circumstances are not good, but in

-other respects they have been prosperous for which I thank my God.

-There has been much sickness here and many deaths during the fall

-and many are now suffering for lack of some of the comforts of life.

-We have been prosperous on our journey home and have arrived in nine

-weeks and three days, including a week's delay waiting for the twelve

-and killing buffalo. Our health has been remarkably good, but we have

-lacked provisions, many of us having nothing but dry buffalo meat. I

-have succeeded in measuring the whole distance from the City of the

-Great Salt Lake to this place, except a few miles between Horse Creek

-and the A La Bonte River which was taken from the measurement going

-up. I find the whole distance to be 1,032 miles and am now prepared

-to make a complete traveler's guide from here to the Great Salt Lake,

-having been careful in taking the distance from creek to creek, over

-bluffs, mountains, etc. It has required much time and care and I have

-continually labored under disadvantages in consequence of the companies

-feeling no interest in it. The health of my family has encouraged me

-for all that is past and my secret gratitude shall ascend to Heaven for

-the unbounded kindness and mercies which the Almighty has continually

-poured upon them in my absence.</p>

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-<pre>

-

-

-

-

-

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+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of William Clayton's Journal by William Clayton</title>
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+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 45051 ***</div>
+
+<h1>William Clayton's Journal</h1>
+
+<p>A Daily Record of the Journey of the Original Company of "Mormon"
+Pioneers from Nauvoo, Illinois, to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake</p>
+
+<p>Copyright 1921 by Lawrence Clayton, trustee for the Clayton Family
+Association.</p>
+
+<p>Electronic edition produced by the Mormon Texts Project. To report
+typos or formatting errors, you can email mormontextsproject@gmail.com.</p>
+
+<p>Volunteers who helped with this book: Eric Heaps, Meridith Crowder, Ben
+Crowder, Tod Robbins, David Van Leeuwen, Lili DeForest, Jude Ogzewalla,
+Byron Clark.</p>
+
+<p>Version 1.0</p>
+
+<h2>Foreword</h2>
+
+<p>William Clayton was one of the remarkable characters of early Utah
+history. Born in the county of Lancashire, England, July 17, 1814,
+he was educated in one of the schools of his native town, and grew
+to manhood with a love for books and nature. An early convert of
+the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, he conducted one
+of the first companies from England to Nauvoo, and there became one
+of the trusted secretaries of the Prophet Joseph Smith. With the
+exodus from Nauvoo, he was Clerk of the Camp of Israel, and when the
+Mormon pioneers left Winter Quarters in April, 1847, he was appointed
+by Brigham Young one of the historians of that noted company. His
+journal of that memorable expedition over the plains is one of the
+most valuable diaries we have of that early period of western history.
+He kept careful account of the distances traveled each day, and his
+writings are full of descriptions of the country over which they
+traveled. He has noted the topography, the fauna and flora of the
+trail; and his descriptions of the activities of the company indicate
+a well trained intellect in social study. His language is simple and
+direct, and his care in keeping each day's distance and important facts
+of the journey show order and method.</p>
+
+<p>His hymn, "Come, come, ye Saints" takes its place as one of the most
+beautiful hymns of western history, for it is full of joyfulness,
+and expresses an optimism and faith in God that will always be an
+inspiration to the one who sings it. It indicates that William Clayton
+had much of the artistic in him, although we do know that he took a
+virile part in the activities of life.</p>
+
+<p>His journal should be read by all people who are interested in the
+west's development. It is certainly one of the distinct contributions
+of that early day, and shows that a man of strength of character wrote
+it. It will inspire many people to a greater love and regard for the
+work of the pioneers of Utah.</p>
+
+<p>Levi Edgar Young<br> Salt Lake City, Utah<br> April 1921</p>
+
+<h2>William Clayton</h2>
+
+<h3>Born in England, 1814; died in Utah, 1879</h3>
+
+<p>The Claytons of England originally came from France. During the time
+when William the Conqueror and King Harold were quarreling, a call came
+from the former for volunteers among his chieftains to go to war. A man
+named Robert was among those who responded. Robert was skilled in arms.</p>
+
+<p>After the Battle of Hastings in 1066, in which Robert rendered heroic
+service, William the Conqueror conferred upon him the English Manor of
+Clayton as a mark of merit. Robert was afterwards known as Robert de
+Clayton and Lord of the Manor of Clayton. From Lord Robert Clayton came
+all the Claytons of England and America and by genealogical research,
+the line has been brought down to the subject of this sketch.</p>
+
+<p>William Clayton was born July 17, 1814, in the village of Charock
+Moss, Township of Penwortham, County Palatine of Lancaster, England.
+He was the son of Thomas and Ann Critchley Clayton, who were born in
+Lancashire, England. William was the eldest of fourteen children. Three
+of these children died in infancy and were buried in England. Through
+the influence of the eldest son, the father, mother and surviving
+children joined the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and
+came to America. The mother died in Nauvoo, Illinois, July 15, 1848,
+and the father in St. Louis, Missouri, June 16, 1849. A brother James
+died in Winter Quarters, November 28, 1847. The remainder of his
+brothers and sisters survived the persecutions of mobs and the early
+privations of the Church and came to the valley of the Great Salt Lake
+with the pioneers of Utah.</p>
+
+<p>William Clayton first heard the Gospel preached in England by Heber
+C. Kimball and Orson Hyde. With his wife, Ruth Moon Clayton, whom he
+married in England, October 9, 1836, he listened to the teachings of
+these missionaries, but he was not easy to convert. His wife received
+the Gospel first, and many evenings had to be spent before William
+Clayton became a believer in "Mormonism." He was ordained a Priest
+December 25, 1837, and a High Priest, April 1, 1838, at which time he
+was appointed with Willard Richards, Counselor to Joseph Fielding who
+presided over the Church in Europe.</p>
+
+<p>September 8, 1840, he left England in the packet ship <em>North America</em>,
+arriving in New York, October 11, 1840, and in Nauvoo, November 24,
+1840. In this city, he became a trusted friend of the founders of
+the Church, so much so that on February 10, 1842, he was appointed
+secretary to Joseph Smith the Prophet. October 7, 1842, he became
+Temple Recorder and Recorder of Revelations. In 1842, he became
+Treasurer of the City of Nauvoo. These appointments are indicative of
+the zeal with which William Clayton served the Church throughout his
+life.</p>
+
+<p>What of the personal characteristics of our subject? As will appear
+from his portrait on the frontispiece, William Clayton did not tend
+to frivolity or mirth but rather to seriousness and earnestness. Yet
+he was witty and had a keen sense of humor. In the home he was not
+demonstrative; although he had great love for his home and family and
+provided well for their comfort. He was methodical, always sitting in
+his own arm chair, having a certain place at the table and otherwise
+showing his love for order, which he believed the first law of heaven.
+His person was clean and tidy; his hands small and dimpled. He wore
+very little jewelry but what little he had was the best money could
+buy. He would not carry a watch that was not accurate, and his clothing
+was made from the best material. His children remember him best in
+black velvet coat and grey trousers and, in cold weather, a broad-cloth
+cloak in place of overcoat.</p>
+
+<p>The man-timber in William Clayton came from sturdy trees. His character
+was above all littleness. He believed that what was good for him was
+good for all men, and that the measurement of our lives was based upon
+our daily conduct towards each other. To him that was God's standard.
+He believed in perfect equity in the adjustment of the affairs of
+life. Had he loved money, he could probably have had it because of his
+education and executive ability. But he cared little for material gain,
+centering his zeal in the pursuit of honor and right.</p>
+
+<p>William Clayton was honest and nothing to him could justify an untruth.
+He deplored waste or extravagance, yet he never withheld from a
+neighbor in distress, or from the widow or orphan. Many are those who
+knew his generosity. When his harvest was gathered, bushels of grain
+and fruit found place among those of scanty store. And many pairs of
+shoes and much warm clothing were given to comfort the needy. Nor was
+the homeless forgotten, but the orphan was given a home and joy by his
+own fireside.</p>
+
+<p>His religion was deeply rooted and nurtured by association with and
+testimony of an eye witness to the living God. His love for Joseph
+Smith was love seldom shown in man for man. Few men possessed stronger
+faith and courage. These qualities alone could inspire a man under
+heart-rending circumstances, to write such hymns of faith and comfort
+as "Come, come, ye Saints," and "The Resurrection Day."</p>
+
+<p>The record of William Clayton in Utah kept pace with that of previous
+years. His home was open always to his friends who loved to gather
+there for social hours. Civic welfare always interested him. He was a
+musician and played in the pioneer orchestra and that of the Salt Lake
+Theatre. He was a lover of community features and took part in dramatic
+functions.</p>
+
+<p>He was treasurer of Zion's Cooperative Mercantile Institution, Recorder
+of Marks and Brands, Receiver of Weights and Measures, and was
+Territorial Auditor. His love for education prompted many sacrifices
+and he tried hard to give his children the essentials of good schooling.</p>
+
+<p>He had a strong will, although a tender conscience. Cowardice had no
+place in him. Truly he could say, "My heart is fixed. I know in whom I
+trust." Joseph Smith believed that they should meet and associate in
+the Celestial Kingdom of God as they had here.</p>
+
+<p>William Clayton died December 4, 1879, in Salt Lake City. Services were
+held in the Seventeenth Ward Chapel at which his own funeral hymn was
+sung. He left a large posterity.</p>
+
+<p>Victoria C. McCune<br> Salt Lake City, Utah, June, 1921</p>
+
+<h2>Editor's Note</h2>
+
+<p>The descendants of William Clayton have in recent years formed
+themselves into an organization known as the Clayton Family
+Association. This book is offered to the public by the Association
+with the thought that a document of such faithful description and fine
+spirit would be welcomed by all people who might be interested either
+in the Pioneer Period of Western History or more particularly in the
+exodus of the Mormon people from Missouri to the valley of the Great
+Salt Lake. It is difficult to understand why the <em>Journal</em> was not
+published years ago and it seems to require somewhat of an apology
+that this interesting record should have remained so long unknown and
+be now brought out with considerable haste. In the effort to have it
+ready for distribution to the members of the Clayton Family Association
+on the anniversary of the birth of their forefather on July 17th,
+there has been a sacrifice of care and deliberation in the preparation
+of this first edition which is hoped the reader will overlook upon
+consideration of the facts. This lack of time and care will show itself
+more in the text than in any other particular. Much of the proof
+reading was done by the undersigned on board train between Salt Lake
+and California. To say the least, such surroundings are not conducive
+to the most finished work. It is hoped that this circumstance will also
+make the reader more tolerant when encountering mistakes in the text,
+obviously the result of hasty proof reading. At a later date a second
+edition will do better justice to the author of the <em>Journal</em> and will
+show more consideration for the fine taste of the reader.</p>
+
+<p>Lawrence Clayton<br> Salt Lake City, Utah, June, 1921</p>
+
+<h2>Table of Contents</h2>
+
+<p><a href="#Feb1846">February 1846</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-21">March 1846</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-22">April 1846</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-1">May 1846</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-2">June 1846</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-3">July 1846</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-4">August 1846</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-5">September 1846</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-0">November 1846</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-6">January 1847</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-7">February 1847</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-9">April 1847</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-11">May 1847</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-12">June 1847</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-13">July 1847</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-16">August 1847</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-18">September 1847</a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#calibre_link-23">October 1847</a></p>
+
+<h2 id=Feb1846>February 1846</h2>
+
+<p><em>Nauvoo, Illinois</em></p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, February 8</h3>
+
+<p>At the office all day packing public goods, evening at Farr's writing
+out a letter of instruction to trustees.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, February 9</h3>
+
+<p>At the office packing. At 3:30 the temple was seen on fire. Women
+carrying water.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, February 10</h3>
+
+<p>At the temple packing, also Wednesday 11th.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, February 12</h3>
+
+<p>At home preparing to move.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, February 13</h3>
+
+<p>Sent four loads of goods over the river. Loading and packing.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, February 14</h3>
+
+<p>Packing and seeking letters.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, February 15</h3>
+
+<p>Riding around to get teams and things together. Sent two teams over the
+river.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, February 16</h3>
+
+<p>Still loading teams, also Tuesday 17th.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, February 18</h3>
+
+<p>Got about ready to go over the river. Evening President Brigham Young,
+Heber C. Kimball, J. M. Grant and some of the pioneers came to hurry
+us over. N. K. Whitney also came in. We conversed together some. They
+state the brethren have made a perfect waste of food and property in
+the camp.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, February 19</h3>
+
+<p>This morning the ground is covered with snow. It is so windy they
+cannot cross the river. Continued to snow all day. Evening went to
+Elder Babbit's to supper with Elder Kimball. President Young was there,
+Backenstos, J. M. Grant and some others.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, February 20</h3>
+
+<p>The weather is very cold and windy. Impossible to cross the river.
+Spent the day running after things to get ready, fixing wagons and
+chopping fire wood.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, February 27</h3>
+
+<p>We have spent the past week waiting for crossing over the [Mississippi]
+river. It has been hard frost and much snow. This morning I concluded
+to start over the river and began early to send my teams. About noon I
+crossed with my family and then rested the teams and soon after went
+on to the camp where we arrived a little before four o'clock. Bishop
+Whitney concluded to stay at the river until morning because some of
+his teams could not get over. When we got to the camp we were received
+with joy and formed in the company of the band. The weather is still
+very cold especially during the night. The distance from Nauvoo to this
+place is called seven and a half miles.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, February 28</h3>
+
+<p>A.M. arranging my tents, etc. At twelve was sent for to council and
+about two the band was requested to go and meet bishop Whitney and his
+teams. We went and met him five miles from the camp. We played some
+time and then returned to the camp. President Young, Heber C. Kimball,
+P. P. Pratt, Orson Pratt and others accompanied us. At night played
+with the band.</p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-21>March 1846</h2>
+
+<h3>Sunday, March 1</h3>
+
+<p>A.M. preparing to march to the next encampment. At ten a lecture was
+given by Elder Kimball and about one the company proceeded to the next
+camp about four and a half miles, where we arrived in good season.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, March 2</h3>
+
+<p>Started this morning for another camp about eight miles where we
+arrived about five p.m., the roads being somewhat hilly and muddy. The
+band played at night. During the day the artillery company broke into
+our ranks several times and broke a number of our wagon boxes. At night
+they complained of us at headquarters, but after hearing our story the
+matter stood about right.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, March 3</h3>
+
+<p>Proceeded on our journey through Farmington about eight miles to a
+place where bishop Miller was encamped and arrived in good season. The
+band played at night.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, March 4</h3>
+
+<p>This morning we concluded to stay a day and fix up some wagons which
+were broken. A number of the citizens from Farmington came to the camp
+and gave a very pressing invitation for the band to go to Farmington
+and play some. Accordingly about three o'clock, the band started and
+arrived at Farmington about 4:30 p.m. We played at the principal hotel
+and then went to the school house and played till nearly dark. The
+house was filled with men and women, the leading people of the place.
+We then returned to the hotel where they had provided us with a good
+supper. They also gave us $5 in money. John Kay sang a number of songs.
+At eight o'clock we returned and when we left they gave us three
+cheers. When we arrived at the camp we met thirty of the guard just
+starting out to meet us. The President felt uneasy at our staying so
+long and was sending the men to protect us.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, March 5</h3>
+
+<p>Proceeded on our journey. Crossed the Des Moines river at Bonaparte and
+afterwards had a very bad road up the bluff for several miles which
+detained us until late in the afternoon. We stopped awhile to feed the
+band teams inasmuch as they had none this morning. We then started and
+went to the next camping ground, making the day's journey about sixteen
+miles.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, March 7</h3>
+
+<p>Proceeded about eight miles to a camp ground near to a Dr. Elberts
+where the band camped. President Young was behind and when he arrived
+he went on about eight miles farther. The band went to work splitting
+rails for corn and made before dark, about 1:30. In the evening Dr.
+Elbert and some others came to hear the band play. Kay sang some songs
+which pleased them.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, March 8</h3>
+
+<p>Waited for orders from headquarters. Many of the citizens came to hear
+the band play and gave us a very pressing invitation to go to Keosaugua
+and give a concert. About noon word came that we should follow on to
+the camp. We immediately struck tents and started and we arrived at
+the main camp about five o'clock. Some of the citizens from Keosaugua
+followed us waiting for an answer whether we would give a concert as
+soon as we arrived at the camp. I asked the President whether the band
+should go to Keosaugua to give a concert. He advised us to go and I
+immediately sent out the appointment and then we pitched our tents
+forming a line on the road opposite to the President's company.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, March 9</h3>
+
+<p>Spent the day chiefly preparing for the concert and attending on my
+family.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, March 10</h3>
+
+<p>The weather still continues fine. Spent the morning preparing for
+the concert and about one o'clock p.m. started in company with the
+brass band for Keosaugua. I rode in Elder Kimball's wagon with
+William Kimball, J. Smithies and Wm. Pitt. The distance from the camp
+to Keosaugua is about ten miles, the camp being at a place called
+Richardson's point. We arrived at Keosaugua about three o'clock and
+being requested we went through the town and played some. One of the
+grocery keepers invited us to play him a tune which we did. He then
+invited us in and offered to treat us to anything he had. We each took
+a little and then the next grocery keeper sent an invitation for us
+to play him a tune. We did so and he also gave us anything he had. A
+beer keeper next sent word that he did not want us to slight him and
+we went and played him a tune and then took some of his cake and beer.
+We then marched up to the Des Moines hotel near the court-house where
+we had ordered supper and after eating we went to the courthouse to
+prepare for the concert. At seven o'clock the house was crowded and we
+commenced, playing and singing till about 9:30. The audience seemed
+highly pleased and gave loud applause. About the close one of the
+citizens got up and said it was the wish of many that we should repeat
+the concert the following evening and he took a vote of all who wished
+us to go again. The vote was unanimous. We made nearly $25.00 clear of
+all expenses. We started back for the camp soon after ten and arrived
+about one o'clock all well and pleased.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, March 11</h3>
+
+<p>In the morning I reported to President Young our success and the
+request of the citizens of Keosaugua and he advised us to go again. We
+accordingly started about eleven o'clock. I again rode with William
+Kimball, Horace Whitney and James Smithies. When we arrived we were
+welcomed again with the same kind feelings as yesterday. Pitt had a
+severe chill all the way and when we got there it commenced raining
+and made it very unpleasant. The house was again filled but we only
+made $20.00 besides all expenses. We learned that there is a party of
+socialists there and they and the priests are much opposed to each
+other. We also learned that a man named McCully was in jail close by
+under sentence to be hung on the 4th of April for murdering a man and a
+child. I did not feel so well at the concert as on the night previous
+on several accounts. We started back between eleven and twelve and got
+to the camp about three o'clock.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, March 12</h3>
+
+<p>The band moved to better ground about one quarter of a mile farther.
+The heavy rains had made it very muddy and unpleasant, all our bedding
+and things being wet.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, March 13</h3>
+
+<p>Went hunting.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, March 14</h3>
+
+<p>Wrote a letter to Diantha.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, March 15</h3>
+
+<p>In camp all day.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, March 16</h3>
+
+<p>Some of the citizens of Keosaugua came again to request us to give
+another concert. We agreed to go tomorrow evening.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, March 17</h3>
+
+<p>Started for Keosaugua with Pitt, Hutchinson, Kay, Smithies and Egan.
+I took my music box and china to try and sell them. We arrived in
+good season and soon learned that the priests had been hard at work
+preventing the sectarians from coming to the concert, saying that it
+was an infidel move consequently there were not many present. We had
+far the best concert which lasted till nine o'clock. We then went over
+to the hotel, took supper and played for a private party till about
+three o'clock. We only cleared from both, about $7.00 over expenses but
+were well treated.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, March 18</h3>
+
+<p>It rained last night and this morning again and we almost concluded
+to go to Fairfield, but finally determined to return to camp. We
+visited with a Mr. Bridgman who treated us very kindly. Bought about
+eight bushels of beans and some articles for President Young and then
+returned to camp. It rained some again today. We got back about five
+o'clock. After dark Dr. Elbert came to see my china and said if I would
+take it over tomorrow he would buy it.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, March 19</h3>
+
+<p>Went to ask council whether I should go to sell my china. Saw Heber who
+advised me to go. A few of us started and soon met President Young who
+said we had better go back and go with the camp who were then starting
+on their way. We accordingly turned back our horses and struck tents in
+a hurry. At twelve o'clock we started on our journey. After traveling
+about six or seven miles we had to go up a very bad bluff which took
+us till five o'clock. President Young's company went ahead of us and
+camped three miles from the bluff. Some of our teams gave out and we
+only went about a mile from the bluff and camped in a little point of
+timber a little from the road. Our teams were very tired.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, March 21</h3>
+
+<p>We started early in the morning and soon came up with the main body of
+the camp. I rode ahead about three miles to hunt my cow. We did not
+have her last night being with the main camp. We traveled nine or ten
+miles and then rested our teams. We started again and traveled three
+miles farther where we found the President and Heber camped on the
+brink of a long bluff. We concluded to go to the other bank which we
+did and camped in a good place. In the evening the band went and played
+for the President and Heber and then went to a farmer's house at the
+owner's request about three quarters of a mile from camp to play for
+his family. He promised to give us some honey if we would play for
+him. We played about an hour and then left but neither saw nor heard
+anything of the honey. We learned afterwards, however, that Hutchinson
+had a pail under his cloak and got it full of honey after the rest had
+left the house and kept it to himself, very slyly.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, March 22</h3>
+
+<p>Started again and soon came to the Shariton bottoms which is a very low
+land for about four miles. The road was bad and it took us sometime to
+cross. While on the bottom Root and Davis came again. Root had asked
+permission of President Young to go back to his family some days ago
+but it seems things did not go to suit him and he followed his team
+again. It took sometime to go up the bluff. We had to let the teams
+down into the Shariton river by ropes and also helped them up again by
+the same means. Our company got over in good season but we concluded
+to camp after getting up the bluff as it would take till night for the
+whole to get up. I spent the day helping the teams till I was so sore
+and tired I could scarcely walk.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, March 23</h3>
+
+<p>In council with Brigham, Heber, and others. We found that Miller's
+company had gone still farther about eight miles instead of waiting
+till we overtook them so that we could organize. I wrote a letter to
+them saying if they did not wait or return to organize, the camp would
+organize without and they be disfellowshiped. We concluded to stay at
+this place a few days to buy corn to last to Grand river but we found
+corn scarce and 26c a bushel, the farmers having advanced on account of
+a disposition to speculate.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, March 24 and Wednesday, March 25</h3>
+
+<p>At the camp writing, etc. It rained considerably.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, March 26</h3>
+
+<p>Evening in council. Wrote a long letter to be sent to Emmet's company
+by John Butler and James W. Cummings. This morning wrote another
+letter to P. P. Pratt, Orson Pratt, George Miller telling them
+they must wait for us or come back to organize. The letters were sent
+by Smithies. He met them on the way and about noon P. P. Pratt,
+Orson Pratt, John Kay and G. Miller came into camp and at 1:00 p.m.
+the council met. The brethren plead that the charges in the letters
+were unjust. They had not striven to keep out of the way but had done
+all for the best. The whole camp accordingly was organized, A. P.
+Rockwood over 1st 50; Stephen Markham, 2nd 50; Young, 3rd 50; Howard
+E. Kimball, 4th 50; Charles C. Rich, 5th 50; Charles Crisman, 6th 50.
+Each fifty had also appointed a contracting commissary for the purpose
+of contracting for work and grain as follows: Henry Sherwood 1st 50;
+David H. Kimball 2nd; Wm. H. Edwards 3rd; Peter Haws 4th; Joseph
+Worthen 5th; Samuel Gully 6th. It was understood that I continue to
+preside over the band and in the absence of Brother Haws over the whole
+fifty. After this there was appointed for each fifty a distributing
+commissary to distribute feed in camp as follows: Charles Kennedy for
+1st 50; J. M. Grant 2nd 50; Nathan Tanner 3rd 50; Orson B. Adams
+4th 50; James Allred 5th 50; Isaac Allred 6th 50. The brethren then
+gave the following instructions for the whole camp with orders that
+same be observed hereafter, viz. No man to set fire to prairies. No man
+to shoot off a gun in camp without orders. No man to go hunting unless
+he is sent and all to keep guns, swords and pistols out of sight. There
+was then appointed a clerk for each fifty as follows: John D. Lee
+Young, 1st 50; John Pack 2nd 50; Lorenzo Snow 3rd 50; Geo. H. Hales 4th
+50; John Oakley 5th 50; A. Lathrop 6th 50. The council then adjourned
+to meet at Shariton Ford camp on Monday at 10 a.m. We then returned to
+our camp where we arrived just at dark.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, March 28</h3>
+
+<p>In camp making out forms for clerks of 50's and also copied letter to
+James Emmet.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, March 29</h3>
+
+<p>Making forms for clerks of 50's and felt quite unwell all day with bad
+cold.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, March 30</h3>
+
+<p>Met with the council. The guard and pioneers were divided and
+distributed amongst the several companies of 50's. It was also agreed
+that company No. 4 should go on to the next camp tomorrow and the
+remainder of the day following. Jackson Redding sold one of Keller's
+horses for one yoke of oxen, leaving me as bad off for teams as before.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, March 31</h3>
+
+<p>It was concluded we could not get ready to move until tomorrow.
+O. P. Rockwell arrived with the mail. I received a letter from
+Diantha and father. President Young received one from the trustees,
+one from Matlock and one from E. Pratt which I read in council. I was
+ordered to write an answer to the trustees' and Matlock's letter, but
+being late I left it till morning when I was quite unwell. I got two
+new teamsters, Levi Kendall and Swap.</p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-22>April 1846</h2>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, April 1</h3>
+
+<p>President Young also sent me two yoke of oxen, wagon, and Brother
+Jones, the owner, to assist me. We divided the load out of the spare
+wagons putting a yoke of oxen to each and about 11:00 started on our
+journey. Mother was very sick, and could not bear to ride. She walked
+all the way. I felt very unwell myself, having much pain in my limbs.
+The roads were bad, but we arrived in camp about 2:00 and got on good
+ground. After getting our tents fixed, fires made, etc., I went to
+wrestling, jumping etc., to try to get well. I over-exerted myself
+without any symptoms of perspiration and was so sick after I had to go
+to bed.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, April 2</h3>
+
+<p>I was very sick all day and unable to write the letters or meet with
+the council. O. P. Rockwell started back to Nauvoo with letters.
+One of the Brother Hales arrived to say to his brother who drives team
+for Pitt that his family is very sick and wants him to go back but
+we cannot spare the team and he says it is no use for him to go back
+without it. At night I wrote again to Diantha and sent it by Brother
+Hale who returns tomorrow.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, April 3</h3>
+
+<p>This morning it was decided to start early so as to get over the bad
+roads and also travel about fifteen miles. We had to send a wagon and
+team to fetch the eight bushels of corn which some of the band earned
+by playing last night. We started, however, about eight o'clock. The
+roads were very bad and when we had traveled about three miles it began
+to thunder and rain. The clouds gathered fast and it soon showed signs
+for heavy rain the whole day. We reached Bishop Whitney's camp about
+noon and rested our teams while the rest came up. We then started again
+in the heavy rain and bad roads and traveled about three miles to
+Bishop Miller's camp. We had a very bad bluff to rise and had to double
+teams to get up. On the top I met Heber camped. He selected a camping
+ground for us and advised us to go no farther. President Young has gone
+on six or seven miles. It was about 5:00 before all our teams got up
+and it rained heavily all the time. Mother walked all day again in the
+rain. I was very sick myself and unable to do anything. Yesterday the
+portion of the guard detailed to our company joined in with us, being
+Orvil M. Allen and eight men. They reported themselves destitute of
+everything and said they had lived a week on corn meal gruel, Stout and
+Hunter having made them serve as their body guard and used them very
+hard. I dealt out some of my own flour and bacon to them, determined
+to comfort them some if I could and not being willing to see anyone in
+our company suffer while I have anything left. It continued to rain all
+night very hard.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, April 4</h3>
+
+<p>This morning all our clothing, beds and bed clothing were drenched
+and it has continued to rain all day. I have been sick again all day
+especially towards night. I was so distressed with pain it seemed as
+though I could not live. I went to bed and put a bag of hot salt on my
+chest which seemed to give me some ease but I suffered much through
+the night, and it continued to rain until after midnight. We put an
+extra cover on our sleeping wagon, which kept out the rain. We have
+only slept in the wagon three nights but have slept under a tent on the
+wet ground. Haws' company are now formed with us, making our 50 nearly
+complete. A number of the company feel unwell on account of the rain
+and wet.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, April 5</h3>
+
+<p>This morning I feel a little better and the day is fine and pleasant.
+I have spent the day writing in this journal, having written from
+memory all since the date of March 9th. Some of the dates may not be
+correct but the matters recorded are true. It is now 1:00 p.m. There
+is a meeting at Elder Kimball's camp but I am sent here in this wagon
+to fetch up this record. My health is somewhat better for which I
+feel thankful. Elder Kimball says we had better not attempt to move
+tomorrow. We can get corn within ten miles from here and he will help
+us to means. We have now to lay in corn to last till we get to Grand
+River about fifty miles farther, there being no farms on the road. On
+Friday evening I appointed Charles Terry captain of my ten and Henry
+A. Terry clerk and my brother James to attend on my family agreeable
+with the orders of the President that I may be able to spend my time
+writing for the council and camp and attend councils. Elder Kimball
+instructed the captains of tens to call their companies together at
+4:00. Agreeable with this, the band assembled in front of my tent and
+administered the sacrament. Wm. F. Cahoon and Charles A. Terry
+officiated. I spoke about three quarters of an hour on various subjects
+touching on our journey and the policy we ought to use, etc. After I
+had done Elder Haws spoke on some subjects and the meeting adjourned.
+The captains then went over to Elder Kimball's camp about sending for
+corn. We concluded to send four teams for our 50, Captain Egan and Haws
+then went through the camp to see if they could obtain some money. Haws
+obtained $31.45 and Egan $9.00. I sent $14.00 by Egan for some. Wrote
+to Diantha.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, April 6</h3>
+
+<p>It has rained again the last night and continued to rain all day very
+heavily. The camp is very disagreeable and muddy. I spent the day
+reading. About 5:00 the clouds began to break and it looks more likely
+for being fair. In the evening Elder Kimball came over and the band met
+opposite Hutchinson's wagon and played some. After that the quadrille
+band met in my tent and played on the violins. All the time we were
+playing the lightning occasionally broke forth from the northwest and
+at 8:00 we dispersed just as the storm approached. Before I got to my
+tent the wind arrived and soon blew a perfect gale with heavy rain,
+hail, lightning and thunder. It continued for an hour and then abated
+some. All the tents in our company except mine and Pack's were blown
+down. The rain beat through the wagon covers and drenched the families
+and effects. It was the most severe storm we have experienced and with
+such wind it seems impossible to preserve our little clothing and
+provisions from being spoiled. But in the midst of all, the camp seems
+cheerful and happy and there are but few sick.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, April 7</h3>
+
+<p>This morning it is fair but cold and windy. The ground is frozen stiff
+and considerable ice. Many of the tents are still lying flat and
+everything around shows that the storm was very severe. A number of the
+band have no meat and some no flour nor in fact scarcely any provisions
+and several have had little, only what I have given them out of the
+stock I laid in for my family. I have this morning given the guard
+the bag of flour Miller left and a piece of pork and also a piece to
+Redding. The day continued fine but roads almost impassable. Evening
+the band played some.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, April 8</h3>
+
+<p>This morning the ground was hard again. But the weather looks more for
+rain. I went out with Captain Cahoon and President Haws to look out a
+better camp ground and we concluded to move on a little farther west
+about a quarter of a mile. It took the company all day to move, it
+being almost impossible to move the loads even with tripling teams.
+About five o'clock Egan and the teams came back with fifty-seven
+bushels of corn. He had to give 21c a bushel for nearly all of it.
+Elder Kimball came over soon after to see if he could not get some of
+it. While we were talking President Pratt and his company arrived and
+reported that their teams have had no corn since yesterday morning
+neither could they get any. Heber remarked that he would say no more
+about us letting him have any although we had only enough to feed five
+ears a feed every three days, and a journey of about fifty miles before
+we can get any more with bad roads. We let Parley have one load. Heber
+came with me to our camp and handed me a letter from President Young
+requesting us all to go on which I read to the company. I felt very
+unwell again and went to bed early.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, April 9</h3>
+
+<p>This morning we concluded to pursue our journey, President Kimball and
+his company started out about seven o'clock. President Pratt started
+out with his company. Our company waited for the latter to start in
+its place till after eight o'clock and then we went on. The roads were
+very bad indeed. About noon it commenced raining heavily which made
+the roads still worse. We had calculated to go about eight miles to
+timber but after toiling till about four o'clock and having traveled
+only about five miles and our teams being entirely worn down we turned
+out of the road to a little branch of water to camp. Several of my
+teams stuck and we had to work till dark to get part of them to camp
+and two wagons we were compelled to leave over night. Quite a number
+were obliged to stay back on the prairie and Charles Hale did not come
+more than a quarter of a mile from where we started this morning. Elder
+Kimball has camped one and a half miles farther on the open prairie and
+many of his teams are yet behind. P. P. Pratt's company are here
+with us as well as George Miller's company except those behind on the
+prairie. It continued to rain very heavily until night. We could not
+make a fire and had little for supper, our provisions being in one of
+the wagons back. This is the most severe time we have had but yet the
+camp seems in good spirits.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, April 10</h3>
+
+<p>The weather is yet very wet and gloomy. I spent the morning talking to
+Margaret. At seven o'clock a gale struck up and blew our tents over.
+We then concluded to move a few rods lower out of the wind. Before we
+got moved the wind moved to the west and it grew very cold. Our teams
+are gone back to fetch some of the wagons left last night. It rains and
+blows very badly and is very severe on our women and teams. Margaret
+and Lidia are out all the time and continually wetting both feet and
+all over. We expect Robert Burton's, one of Peck's, Peart's and my
+wagons in tonight. One of mine was fetched early in the morning. Our
+teams fare hard with wet and cold, having very little corn.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, April 11</h3>
+
+<p>This morning rode with Egan to help to get Brother Peart's wagon out of
+the slough. It took five yoke of oxen and twelve men to draw it out.
+The roads are yet very bad but it is fair and very cold. We sent twelve
+yoke of oxen to bring up Peck's and Charles Hale's wagon. They got in
+late at night.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, April 12</h3>
+
+<p>This morning before I got up, P. P. Pratt called and said that
+President Young wants the council to meet at Heber's camp at ten
+o'clock. I started out with Captain Egan on foot and arrived in
+season. Had some conversation with Ellen Sanders Kimball and then
+went to council. It was decided to change our route and take a more
+northern one to avoid the settlements. We will go to Grand River and
+there enclose a space of land about two miles square and put up some
+twenty log houses for a resting place for the companies. A company
+starts out in a day or two to seek out the location amongst whom are
+the President, Heber and others of the twelve. A company will also be
+sent west to Judge Miller's to go to work for feed, etc. After council
+I took dinner with Heber, the President being with us. I then wrote a
+letter to the trustees and returned with Captain Egan to our camp and
+soon after went to bed. The day has been fine but cold.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, April 13</h3>
+
+<p>Finished my letter to Diantha and then went over to Peck's blacksmith
+shop. We had concluded not to leave till morning. While there a message
+arrived saying that Haws has sent eight yoke of cattle to help us on.
+We then concluded to start forthwith, being noon. But although we had
+so many extra teams, we had to leave three wagons in camp over night.
+Four of my folks walked all the way but still it was hard for me to get
+along. Keller had to stay back over night. I arrived at Locust Creek,
+being about four miles journey, about six o'clock and sent the cattle
+back for Peck and Steven Hales but they did not return till morning.
+In the evening the band played some. James broke his wagon tongue. We
+camped a little north of President Heber's camp.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, April 14</h3>
+
+<p>The weather is again very fine. Because some of the wagons did not
+come, Egan and I concluded to go and meet them and not start farther
+until tomorrow. We met the teams close by and then took a northern
+course a hunting. We saw only squirrels and I got five of them. About
+noon we returned and found the camp mostly gone. Orders had come from
+the President for the whole to move to his camp today. Charles Terry
+and Henry were gone a hunting which detained me till about three
+o'clock. James and I then started with the four wagons. They overtook
+us when we had got about one half mile. We found the road very bad and
+had to double teams, our horses being so badly worn down. Charles Terry
+broke a wagon tongue.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, April 15</h3>
+
+<p>Last night I got up to watch, there being no guard. The cattle and
+horses breaking into the tents and wagons. I tarried up then called S.
+Hales and Kimball. This morning Ellen Kimball came to me and wishes me
+much joy. She said Diantha has a son. I told her I was afraid it was
+not so, but she said Brother Pond had received a letter. I went over
+to Pond's and he read that she had a fine fat boy on the 30th ult.,
+but she was very sick with ague and mumps. Truly I feel to rejoice at
+this intelligence but feel sorry to hear of her sickness. Spent the day
+chiefly reading. In the afternoon President Young came over and found
+some fault about our wagons, etc. In the evening the band played and
+after we dismissed the following persons retired to my tent to have a
+social christening, viz. William Pitt, Hutchinson, Smithies, Kay, Egan,
+Duzett, Redding, William Cahoon, James Clayton and Charles A. Terry and
+myself. We had a very pleasant time playing and singing until about
+twelve o'clock and drank health to my son. We named him William Adriel
+Benoni Clayton. The weather has been fine but rains a little tonight.
+Henry Terry's horses are missing and have been hunted today but not
+found. This morning I composed a new song--"All is well." I feel
+to thank my heavenly father for my boy and pray that he will spare and
+preserve his life and that of his mother and so order it so that we
+may soon meet again. O Lord bless thine handmaid and fill her with thy
+spirit, make her healthy that her life may be prolonged and that we
+may live upon the earth and honor the cause of truth. In the evening I
+asked the President if he would not suffer me to send for Diantha. He
+consented and said we would send when we got to Grand River.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, April 16</h3>
+
+<p>This morning prepared to proceed on our journey but a span of horses in
+our company in care of Henry Terry being missing we concluded not to
+start. I sent out three men to hunt them. Soon after they were brought
+into camp by another person. I then sent Henry Terry to hunt for the
+men but it was after two o'clock before they returned. We fed a little
+corn and then started. The company is far ahead of us. We traveled very
+slowly our teams were so weak. However, we soon came into sight of the
+camp but it was six o'clock before we got there, having traveled about
+seven miles. The camp was formed on a beautiful prairie, President
+Young's camp being on a little eminence. President Kimball's about
+three quarters of a mile north of his and ours about a quarter of a
+mile east. There is some little grass for our cattle here, but little.
+We sent those of our company about a mile southeast and had a guard
+over them through the night. President Haws, Captains Egan and Kay and
+Jackson Redding went out a hunting. George Hale's cattle were so worn
+down that they could not get along and when within about a mile of
+camp about fifteen of the brethren went to help. They took a rope and
+fixed it on the wagon, loosed the cattle and brought it in themselves,
+singing all the way. At night the band played and then I retired to bed.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, April 17</h3>
+
+<p>This morning very fine. Some of the camp started very early on the way.
+I was ready about eight o'clock but was detained on account of Captain
+Haws, Egan and others having gone hunting. I left Margaret to drive my
+team and sent them on and I drove the cattle on foot. We formed our
+encampment on a high dry place.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, April 19</h3>
+
+<p>While the rest are gone to meeting I turned to unpacking and took an
+inventory of church property. It took till about four o'clock to get
+through. Daniel Spencer's company had arrived about five o'clock.
+Porter Rockwell and Edwin Cutler arrived with the mail. Received a
+letter from Diantha confirming the birth of my son, also a letter from
+A. W. Babbit on some business. Went to see the President to show
+him the inventory but could not find him. About dark he sent for me and
+I went again but he was gone and I did not see him. My mare got in a
+mud hole last night and is very badly strained. Evening went to council
+and read many letters and wrote one to Elder Hyde.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, April 20</h3>
+
+<p>At nine o'clock went to council. Had to read some letters and several
+pieces from papers. A report was read of all those who are able to fit
+themselves for the mountains. A law was made on motion of President
+Young that any person who interrupts the council hereafter by talking
+or otherwise, shall be deprived the privilege of the council till
+the council see proper to admit him. The public teams being brought
+together, the bishops took a list of them to be disposed of at Grand
+River. After council I went to work to assort the articles to be sold,
+etc. Wrote to Diantha.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, April 21</h3>
+
+<p>This morning the main body of the camp are gone, but I am obliged
+to tarry and pack up the public goods again and re-load my wagons.
+I weighed most of our loads and it took until night to get through.
+Charles Terry's horse and one of mine are unable to drag any.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, April 22</h3>
+
+<p>I had intended to start early this morning but our horses were away
+which detained us till nearly nine o'clock. About that time we started
+and traveled slowly about four and a half miles. We then stopped at
+11:30 and thought we would rest our teams and get them cooled off.
+The sun was very warm and they sweat considerably. Word came that
+O. P. Rockwell was on his way and would call for letters. We
+intended to wait until he came. I wrote a short letter to A. W.
+Babbit and one to father but Porter failed to call, and at two o'clock
+we started again. We traveled until about three o'clock when we passed
+Orson Pratt who had concluded to stay a piece east of where the camp
+had tarried last night. He said all the grass was eaten up for several
+miles around. We concluded to go beyond the timber where the main camp
+stayed last night but tried to find grass for our teams. We started
+onward. At the creek watered our teams and rested awhile. We then went
+on about a mile and a half and found good grass and much of it. We at
+once concluded to tarry there. We had put a little wood into our wagons
+to cook with. We arrived on the ground about six o'clock and then got
+the best camp ground we have had for some time.</p>
+
+<p>Three of our teams were behind when we arrived. Horlick got in about
+a half an hour after us and then afterwards Swap and Jones arrived at
+7:30. We are all comfortable but very tired, having traveled about ten
+miles. My wife Ruth walked all the way and myself also. The rest walked
+by turns. We have seen many rattlesnakes today. The weather is very
+fine.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, April 23</h3>
+
+<p>This last night has been very stormy with heavy thunder, hail, rain
+and wind. The thunder and lightning was very loud and the rain fell in
+torrents. The weather continues cold and cloudy with some fine showers.
+There appears some heavy rain in the east and north. Grass looks green
+and the cattle have filled themselves well. We started about ten
+o'clock and soon found that last night's rain had made the roads much
+worse. After traveling about four miles we stopped to graze our teams,
+being one o'clock. While resting Elders Taylor and Orson Pratt passed
+on horseback. At three o'clock we started again and about four came to
+the President's camp. He was just returning from an exploring tour to
+find out better roads. His camp was on the east of a piece of timber.
+He gave orders to move to the other side of the timber about a mile
+from where he then was. We concluded to move on and finally camped on
+the next ridge southwest of his. Our teams are tired and there is not
+much grass. A number of the horses have been bitten by rattlesnakes
+and one is dead. There are a great number of these snakes on these
+prairies. The President says the road to the next timber is all ridges
+and hollows and will be hard on teams. We got camped about 5:30 p.m.,
+and before we got fixed a thunder storm came on with heavy rain but it
+was soon over and the evening afterwards was fine.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, April 24</h3>
+
+<p>This morning the President's company made a bridge over a creek and
+started again on their journey. Four of my horses were missing and
+I sent men to hunt them and went myself. They were found about ten
+o'clock. We tarried until about twelve to rest and then started. We
+went about two miles and stayed until four o'clock to graze our teams
+and then went on again and about six o'clock got to timber. I went to
+hunt a camping spot with Egan. We saw some women who told us Grand
+River was only a mile ahead and that the other companies were required
+to go down there. We started and soon arrived at the main body of the
+camp. We formed on the south side of the camp. The ground here is rich,
+timber good, and the prospects good for heavy crops. Here we calculated
+to tarry a while, fence in a piece of land and those who are not
+prepared to go through to tarry and raise crops. Wild onions grow in
+abundance. The weather has been fine today. Evening those of the band
+who are here went to Bishop Miller's tent and played for the President
+and a Mr. Bryant who lives about thirty miles from here. Pitt, George,
+Charles and Steven Hales and William F. Cahoon are way back as yet as
+well as Heber's company.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, April 25</h3>
+
+<p>This morning started by daybreak fishing. About 7:30 the President
+sent for me. I came back but he was gone. President Haws is regulating
+the company to watch our teams and also go to making rails, etc. The
+morning is fine. About nine o'clock Kendall, one of my teamsters,
+brought one of the horses he drives into camp which had been bitten by
+a rattlesnake. His nose had begun to swell badly. We got some spirits
+of turpentine and bathed the wound, washed his face in salt and water
+and gave him some snakes master root boiled in milk. He yet seems very
+sick. Our men have made a pen for the cattle at night. I feel quite
+unwell today. Spent the day chiefly reading. Evening Kennedy came to
+look at our horse and says they have given sufficient of the master
+root to kill four well horses. The horse looks very sick and is already
+scarcely able to stand. The band played a few tunes at night. About
+nine o'clock it rained somewhat and continued to shower through the
+night. Pitt arrived in camp this afternoon.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, April 26</h3>
+
+<p>The first news I heard this morning was that the horse was dead. This
+is a very unlucky circumstance for me for I am already very deficient
+in teams. Moreover, three of my teams leave me here, viz. Horlick,
+Chas. A. Terry and Jones with their wagons and teams. I shall then
+have about quarter teams enough to draw the loads. I have about three
+thousand pounds of church property besides my own goods. I see little
+chance of my moving from here at present. The morning was wet but it
+cleared off and continued so all day. I spent the day reading and
+writing while the rest went to meeting. Evening was sent for to go to
+council. Read a letter from O. Hyde stating that they had had an offer
+of two hundred thousand dollars for the temple. He writes of hard
+times in Nauvoo. The council selected one hundred men to make rails,
+forty-eight to build houses; twelve to dig wells; ten to build a bridge
+and the rest to go to farming.</p>
+
+<p>Steven Markham, C. C. Rich, L. C. Wilson, James Pace to
+oversee the rail cutting. Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, P. P.
+Pratt and Geo. A. Smith the house building. A. P. Rockwood to boss
+bridge building. President Young to boss him and the whole camp and
+Jacob Peart to boss well digging. The council decided to wait until
+morning to decide relative to selling the temple. After we adjourned I
+went into my wagon. I wrote a long letter to Diantha. It was about ten
+o'clock when I got through.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, April 27</h3>
+
+<p>Rained all day. At 6:00 a.m., went to meeting. The men were divided out
+to work and commenced operations and had to quit on account of rain.
+After breakfast went to council, when it was voted to sell the temple,
+signifying as to the reason, it will be more likely to be preserved.
+It is as lawful to sell it to help the poor saints as to sell our
+inheritance. We do it because we are compelled to do it. I was ordered
+to write an answer to Elder Hyde's letter which I did, saying finally,
+if the temple was sold, $25,000 must be sent for the benefit of the
+camp. The balance to be left at the disposal of elder Hyde, Woodruff
+and the trustees and to be appropriated to help away those who have
+labored hard to build the temple and the faithful poor of the saints.
+Spent the balance of the day packing up china and crockery to be sent
+by Egan.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, April 28</h3>
+
+<p>Weather very wet. Moved up on higher ground. Spent the morning
+unpacking chests for files and supplies. Afternoon unloading wagon
+to send a-trading. The weather very wet until night. President Young
+called over and said we had better not send Egan until the weather
+settles. The quadrille band have gone to give concerts in the Platte.
+They had to draw their wagons across the river by ropes the water was
+so high.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, April 29</h3>
+
+<p>It still continues to rain and the ground is getting quite soft and
+muddy. Spent the day setting men to fixing yokes and bows. Walked out
+about a mile to the bluff west of us. It ceased raining about eleven
+o'clock and continued fair through the day.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, April 30</h3>
+
+<p>Unpacking and re-packing chests all the day. It continues to rain more
+or less and the weather looks bad. Ruth is quite unwell.</p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-1>May 1846</h2>
+
+<h3>Friday, May 1</h3>
+
+<p>This month brings the damp wet weather. Chas. Shumway and George
+Langley start for George Herring this morning being instructed to bring
+him on to Council Bluffs. Spent the day preparing for Egan to start
+trading. He has gone with Jackson Redding and has taken $288.00 of
+church property besides two span of horses and harness and near $60.00
+of mine. Afternoon packing chests, etc. The weather finer and fairer.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, May 2</h3>
+
+<p>The day is fine. Preparing some for Horlick's return to Nauvoo on
+Monday. Wrote to Diantha. Selling shoes.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, May 3</h3>
+
+<p>The morning fair, windy and cloudy, southeast wind. Spent the morning
+making a list of all the company who have made their reports, also
+fixing tents. At ten o'clock went to meeting. O. Spencer talked a while
+and was followed by President Young who exhorted the camp to diligence
+in getting in crops for that will be our salvation the next winter. He
+said no company should start from here until the south field was made
+and some houses built. It commenced raining as the meeting closed and
+about three o'clock a thunder storm came on which lasted till near five
+o'clock. I spent the afternoon reading. Soon after five it cleared off
+some and the sun shone again. While at supper President Young called
+and stated that he wished that I should go to council with him. I
+started and the council met opposite his tent. It was decided that his
+fifty build the bridge tomorrow and all the rest to make rails and also
+that Sherwood and Orson Pratt go about twenty-five or thirty miles
+southwest to seek out another section.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, May 4</h3>
+
+<p>Finished my letter to Diantha and sent it by John Richards. Horlick has
+concluded to tarry till my wagons are fixed. I spent the day examining
+my flour and crackers and helping to fix the tent as considerable of
+my crackers and flour are damaged on account of having poor wagons.
+I dreamed last night that I saw Diantha and her babe. Her babe was
+dressed in white and appeared to be lying down with its eyes closed.
+She was bent over it apparently in sorrow. When I went to her she flew
+to me earnestly but the babe seemed to be kept still and asleep, and I
+awoke. This dream has troubled me considerably. Evening met the clerks
+of 50's in my tent and instructed them how to make their reports, etc.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, May 5</h3>
+
+<p>The weather very fine. I spent the day preparing to enter the reports
+on the record. Went over to J. D. Lee's and learned that some of
+the clerks had been to the President and told him that I had ordered
+that they should include in their reports each wife a man has. I did
+not do any such thing, only requested each name should be in full
+according to the order of a previous council. The President said it
+did not matter about the names being in full but I think in after days
+it will prove it does. Dr. Richards thinks as I do. The President,
+I understand, appeared quite angry. Many of the band are entirely
+destitute of provisions and my flour is so nearly down I have concluded
+to eat biscuit. I have given the band considerable of my biscuit
+already. At nine o'clock fixing my wagons. Expected a storm which soon
+afterwards commenced, raining and thundering very hard. Raining most of
+the night.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, May 6</h3>
+
+<p>Writing in the camp record. In the afternoon a storm arose emitting
+very violent wind, thunder, lightning, rain and hail. Many tents blew
+over. One of mine blew over and most of our articles were wet and some
+nearly spoiled. I have been informed that Esther Kay has been offering
+bitter complaints because they do not fare as well as some others. The
+hint was thrown at Margaret and she understood that it was for me.
+I have today let Miss Kay a pair of shoes and took down a large bag
+of biscuits and divided it amongst those who are needy. I have all
+the time let them have flour, sugar, bacon and other things as I had
+them and to hear of dissatisfaction because I will not let them have
+the last I have grieves me. I have given to the band as near as I can
+estimate, twelve hundred pounds of flour, about four or five hundred
+pounds of bacon besides much of other things. Towards evening it did
+not rain so much but continued hard after we went to bed. The wind was
+very severe, almost as bad as I ever saw it for about a half an hour.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, May 7</h3>
+
+<p>This morning it is dull, cloudy and cold. About nine o'clock commenced
+raining again. I have again given Sister Kay a quart cup full of sugar.
+I have spent the day entering reports on record.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, May 8</h3>
+
+<p>The weather fine and pleasant. Spent the day fixing wagon covers and
+wagons. Andrew Cahoon arrived from Nauvoo with the mail but no letter
+from Diantha or father. He says the troops arrested O. P. Rockwell
+last Thursday evening and took him to Carthage and thence to Quincy
+jail. It is doubtful whether he will now escape their cruel vengeance.
+This morning the mare had a colt. I have felt quite unwell all day.
+Evening went to President Young's to get records to look for a deed
+from Hiram Kimball to Ira S. Miles. Searched till near ten o'clock
+but the deed is not on record. Kimball seems disposed to take all the
+advantages he can from everyone.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, May 9</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fixing wagon cover, counseling with Wm. Cahoon and then was
+called aside by the President to read two letters from Sister Harris
+and her son. Dr. Richards, John Smith and Heber were present. Afternoon
+went fishing. The weather fine and no wind.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, May 10</h3>
+
+<p>Wrote a letter to Diantha, one to trustees, one to father, one to
+Brother Burdick, one to Thos. Moore and one to John Everett. Keller
+returned with thirteen bushels of meal and 250 pounds of bacon from
+the guard, having been gone twelve days. Evening went to council to
+Heber's tent. Samuel Bent having been appointed at today's meeting to
+preside over those left on his arm, he chose David Fullmer and Ezra T.
+Benson for counselors. P. P. Pratt was advised to start as soon as
+possible for Platte River to take all who were prepared to go.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, May 11</h3>
+
+<p>Morning distributing meal and bacon to the band. Afterwards the
+President, Heber, and Dr. Richards came and took some cordage.
+Afternoon weighing and loading.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, May 12</h3>
+
+<p>Sent Keller and Corbite to the mills to try and get flour, meal and two
+cows. Weighing and packing. About nine was sent for to go to council.
+I waited about two hours before anything was done. The vote for Ezra
+T. Benson to stay as counselor for father Bent was rescinded and it
+was voted to take Aron Johnson in his place. A letter of authority
+was written for father Bent by Dr. Richards but he made me copy it,
+and afterwards when the President spoke to him to write to O. P.
+Rockwell he favored me to do that although I left three men waiting to
+weigh my loading and load my wagon. The fact is I can scarcely ever
+go to council but Dr. Richards wants me to do his writing, although I
+have more writing to do as clerk of the camp than I can possibly do.
+Moreover I have to unpack the chest and wait on all of them with the
+public goods in my charge which keeps me busy all the time. President
+Young, Heber, Dr. Richards and Bishop Whitney have all made out to get
+lumber sawed to make their wagons comfortable but I can't get enough
+to make a hind board for one of my wagons, which has none. They are
+tolerably well prepared with wagons and teams but I am here with about
+five tons of stuff and only six wagons and five yoke of oxen to take
+it. I have dealt out nearly all of my provisions and have to get more
+before I can go on. It looks as if I had to be a slave and take slave's
+fare all the journey for it has worked that way so far. After council I
+was weighing and loading, etc., until night. We had some rain at night.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, May 13</h3>
+
+<p>The morning fair, but cloudy. Still loading my wagons and preparing to
+move. President Young and Heber's companies have gone and left me. I
+asked Jones and Terry what provisions I should have to leave them while
+they put in the crops. They concluded that 25 lbs. of corn meal each,
+and from 25 to 50 lbs. of bacon for three of them would be enough for
+twenty days. I think so, for we do not use as much meat in the same
+time in my whole family and as to 25 lbs. of corn meal each for so long
+a time, it is far more than my family can have. I have also to supply
+Horlick with provisions to take him back to Nauvoo and have kept four
+of them since they came here while they are to work for themselves. All
+this continues to weaken my hands for the journey. I have to get three
+new teamsters and also feed them while the others are living on my
+food. Markham came in the evening and said the President had sent word
+to father Bent to raise cattle enough to take my load to the new place
+tomorrow morning but I cannot go because my horses have gone to the
+mill for meal. Evening it commenced raining again and rained nearly all
+night.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, May 14</h3>
+
+<p>This morning is fair, but cloudy and like for more rain. Jones has
+concluded to leave for Nauvoo this morning and leave his son to
+plant for him. I have given him and Charles A. Terry a letter of
+recommendation. Jones asked me and said I would have to leave him some
+provisions while he put in his crops but I do not feel to do it for I
+think it is far more reasonable that the company for whom he has been
+working should supply him instead of me doing it out of the little
+provisions I have. I have left Charles and Henry Terry 50 lbs. of meal
+and 14 lbs. of bacon besides boarding them two weeks while they have
+been working on their farm. I went to see Brother Bent about the teams
+and from him learned that he could only raise three yoke of oxen and
+no wagon. I went to see Crisman who had promised two yoke and told him
+I should start in the morning then went and spent the day fixing the
+loads, etc.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, May 15</h3>
+
+<p>This morning Crisman called and said he should not let his cattle go
+until Brother Miller returned. I then concluded to take what teams I
+had and take my wagons and go on a few miles. I borrowed two yoke of
+oxen from Sister Kay and started. We got the wagons over the river and
+on the bluff about a mile and then stopped to let the teams feed. I
+walked on and met Brothers Miller, Pitt, Kay, and Hutchinson with a
+large drove of cows and cattle. I told Brother Miller my situation and
+the request of the President but I could get no satisfaction. We moved
+on with half of the wagons and I selected a spot over a quarter of a
+mile from timber. They then went back for the other wagons and got them
+all up about six o'clock. Reddings have come here also, and Sister Egan
+with one or two others.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, May 16</h3>
+
+<p>This morning is fine but the weather doesn't look like being fair long.
+I have concluded to send two wagons through and wait until the teams
+return before I can move farther. Swap and Conrad are gone with all the
+teams I have and I have sent A. Johnson's cattle back because they were
+useless unless I could have more. The day was very warm. I spent the
+day mostly reading. Afternoon Duzett, Hutchinson and Pitt arrived with
+their wagons.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, May 17</h3>
+
+<p>Spent the day mostly reading. Weather very warm. Afternoon Bishop
+Miller's company passed but he did not leave me any cattle although he
+has plenty and many cows. This agrees with his course, for from about
+two months before we left Nauvoo to the present, he has done nothing
+but for himself.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, May 18</h3>
+
+<p>Morning went on the road about two miles to see if I could meet Keller
+and Corbitt. It rained and thundered some and continued cloudy through
+the day.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, May 19</h3>
+
+<p>Spent the morning reading, afterwards went fishing. Some teams returned
+from camp and said that some from Nauvoo had arrived there which
+started two weeks ago last Saturday and that Elder Hyde had advised all
+the saints to move over the river as fast as possible from Nauvoo, and
+they have their ferry boats constantly employed. A number are already
+on their way here.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, May 20</h3>
+
+<p>This morning is very rainy and cold. Spun twenty yards of fish line
+and tied on eleven hooks. Swap and Conrad returned soon after eleven
+o'clock. They say the camp is about thirty miles ahead. They confirm
+the report of some having arrived from Nauvoo and say they were told
+that my father is on his way here. The roads are lined with teams,
+etc., on the other road north of this. Horlick came this afternoon for
+more victuals. Although he is a good wagon maker and carpenter, he is
+either unwilling to work or the camp at the farms is unwilling to board
+him for his work which I hardly believe. It seems as though teamsters
+are resolved to live on me till they eat all I have and I now lack
+about three thousand lbs. of provisions to proceed with. I can learn of
+no one who has fed his teamsters as long as I have after they stopped
+teaming and moreover, the teamsters started with church property but I
+have sustained them out of my own provisions. Towards evening it was
+fair but still threatens to rain again. I cannot yet learn a word from
+Diantha but think she must be on her way. My family is yet in good
+health except Margaret who looks sick but doesn't complain.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, May 21</h3>
+
+<p>Continued raining this morning but about noon it began to be fine.
+About five o'clock a heavy thunder storm came up and it started raining
+heavily. Storm after storm kept coming far into the night. Wilham F.
+Gaboon called on his way up between the two companies. He wanted some
+salt but I had none for him.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, May 22</h3>
+
+<p>This morning fine but cloudy, ground wet and soft. Wrote some in the
+camp record. About nine o'clock started on the road to look for a
+good camp ground. James started at the same time on horseback to see
+if he could meet Keller. I went about three miles and waited till he
+returned but no news from Keller. I concluded to move my camp about
+three miles and sent James back to load up and come on. I waited until
+they came. It was after five o'clock before they came up, the loads
+being heavy and the teams weak, the loads being too heavy for them. We
+are now camped on a very pleasant spot not far from timber. We have
+camped near the summit of a ridge where we can see a long way on both
+the roads leading to Miller's mill and to the next camp. Soon after we
+arrived Horace Whitney passed. I sent word to the President to send me
+more teams. I told Horlick we could not board him any longer and gave
+him a line to father asking him to board him until he returns. Have
+borrowed some meal from Edward Martin to get along. If Keller doesn't
+come soon we shall have to obtain something to eat somewhere or go
+short. We have nothing left to eat but some corn, and being short of
+milk we can not cook it to our advantage. James and I were consulting
+just at dusk as to the wisdom of one of us starting out to try and meet
+Keller and Corbitt or see if we could learn something of them. We both
+felt positive they had lost their horses. While we were talking we
+saw Keller and Horlick riding up from the first farm. From Keller we
+learned they had got horses and loads and were coming on the other road
+and would wait till we came up to meet them if we thought best. He said
+the guard had all returned and were with the wagons. This was joyful
+news to us and I felt my heart much relieved.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, May 23</h3>
+
+<p>James started out early to meet the wagons. After breakfast we started
+on the road and while standing Keller came up and said it was about
+four and a half miles to where the other road joins the main road. I
+started ahead on foot and after traveling about three miles came up to
+the teams where they had waited on the road. When I got up the guard
+seemed pleased to see me. Captain Allen had bought about thirty-six
+bushels of meal and 200 lbs. of bacon. They would not receive any
+pay for it. They have been faithful and diligent and have done much.
+There is yet $12.00 due them from the meal and they are determined
+I shall have that too. When my teams came up we put the meal in the
+wagons and started on. We went about a mile farther to Peter's Bridge
+where we concluded to camp for the night. We arranged our loading and
+I concluded to let Brother Allen have the wagon and team in his hands
+which is church property to send back to Nauvoo for his family. The
+guard made out a list of provisions which they wished me to leave them
+which was indeed very little. I gave them four pairs of shoes and
+probably three bushels of meal which is all the remuneration they would
+accept for all they had brought. They seemed well satisfied.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, May 24</h3>
+
+<p>This morning I gave certificates of discharge to A. Keller, John
+Horlick, Orville Allen, M. A. Dodge, Tollman, Starks, Mecham,
+Bartlet and P. R. Wright. Keller and Horlick started immediately
+for Nauvoo and Wright and Dodge soon after. I concluded to move on
+about two miles to where Hutchinson and Duzett were in camp. I started
+out on foot and most of my family soon after. It soon began to rain
+and rained till I was wet through. I traveled on about four and a half
+miles but could see no camp near timber. I stopped to rest at a post
+put up by Stewart where the Raccoon fork led off. While there Josiah
+Arnold passed on his way to Miller's. From him I learned that there
+was a camp ground about a half a mile farther. I went on and waited.
+Before any of the wagons arrived James came up. Soon after news arrived
+that Swap had broke his wagon tongue. I sent James to help bring on
+the loads. We only started with three wagons and left three back with
+Corbitt and Martin. The teams worked hard all day and at half past nine
+the last team arrived having taken all day to travel about five miles.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, May 25</h3>
+
+<p>This morning I sent James and Corbitt to go and trade three horses
+and some harness for cows. About noon I started out with two wagons
+and left one and about three loads of stuff in care of two of the
+guard. After we had traveled about three miles I met a messenger from
+the camp who handed me two letters, one was from Diantha and one from
+Brother Whitaker concerning a piece of land. We went on about a mile
+and crossed a creek where we waited to rest our teams. When I read
+Diantha's letter it gave me painful feelings to hear of her situation.
+After resting about an hour we went on about four miles farther and
+camped near Father Baker's camp on a creek. It was night before we
+got supper over. I found several men going back to Nauvoo for their
+families.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, May 26</h3>
+
+<p>Wrote an answer to Whitaker's letter and also one to Diantha. We
+started on about eight o'clock and found the road bad and many bad
+creeks where the bridges had been washed away. After traveling two
+miles one of my wagons loaded with corn meal was upset in a hole. But
+after about an hour's labor we got the loading in. The wagon was not
+much damaged. We proceeded about three miles farther and met two men
+with six yoke of oxen which President Young had sent to meet us. This
+was a great relief to us for we saw that we could not get to camp today
+because of our teams being so worn down. We rested our teams about an
+hour and then started on at a good pace. We found several more very
+bad creeks to pass but we did not have much difficulty. Duzett and
+myself drove the cows. Edward Martin drove his horses. About sundown
+we arrived in camp, having traveled about thirteen miles. This place
+is called Mt. Pisgah and is a very beautiful situation, the prairie
+rolling and rich, skirted with beautiful groves of timber on the main
+fork of the Grand river. Soon after we arrived Elder Kimball came
+to welcome us to camp and then came Elder Richards and family and
+President Young who all seemed glad to see us in camp.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, May 27</h3>
+
+<p>This morning my horses and one cow and several of the oxen are missing.
+I went to see Bishop Whitney about getting teams to send back for the
+loads remaining but could get no satisfaction from him. I went back
+and unloaded two wagons on the ground and about the same time saw the
+President who said he would send for them. Elder Kimball sent one
+wagon and the President sent two. President Young said they intended
+to take the church property in their wagons and take it on to Council
+Bluffs but I must go with them and leave James and Corbitt and Egan to
+bring on the wagons they have, etc. I cannot think they understand my
+situation in regard to the teams or they would make some definite move
+about it. They intend to start in a day or two and I tried to fix the
+wagons in good order but had no chance to get even one fixed. Spent the
+day fixing up my tent and had to get a new pole. Heber took my other
+one. Afternoon it commenced gathering for a storm and we had barely
+time to get the tent up and the things under it before it began to rain
+and continued till I went to sleep. George Herring and Shumway arrived
+here last night. I spoke with them today.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, May 28</h3>
+
+<p>The morning dull and foggy, ground wet, etc. Went fishing some. Evening
+played with Hutchinson and Pitt. All my oxen, horses and the cow were
+found. I went out this morning hunting for them on foot. Evening
+raining.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, May 29</h3>
+
+<p>The weather fine, cool, and windy. Talked with Heber some. He says I
+shall have teams. One of my wagons came in this morning.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, May 30</h3>
+
+<p>Went and borrowed a robe and ornaments from Aaron Farr then rode
+with Dr. Richards about three miles on the prairie. There were five
+others and among them President Young. Two tents were brought and
+we fixed them up and then met and clothed. There were President
+Young, P. P. Pratt, J. Taylor, Geo. A. Smith, A. Lyman, John
+Smith, N. K. Whitney, D. Spencer, O. Spencer, C. C. Rich,
+E. T. Benson, Wm. Huntington and myself. Clothed and having
+offered up the signs, offered up prayer, Heber C. Kimball being mouth.
+We then conversed awhile and appeared again, Geo. A. Smith being
+mouth--A. P. Rockwood and Wm. Kimball were guarding the tent.
+Prayers were offered that we might be delivered from our enemies and
+have teams to go on our journey, etc. About two o'clock we returned to
+camp. Many of the teams were coming in and among the rest, the teams
+sent back for my loading which all arrived tonight.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, May 31</h3>
+
+<p>Having heard that Egan was near I started out to meet him. The morning
+was fine but about eleven o'clock it began to thunder. I went about
+two miles and before I got back without seeing Egan it rained heavily.
+I was wet through. I called at the meeting while President Young was
+speaking. It rained nearly all the afternoon. Noal Richards died.</p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-2>June 1846</h2>
+
+<h3>Monday, June 1</h3>
+
+<p>Was wet in the morning and windy all day. The council got me four
+wagons and seven yoke of oxen to take church property.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, June 2</h3>
+
+<p>Still windy but fair. President Young has again stated I lack some
+cattle yet. Fixing my wagon, etc. Have about teams enough but lack
+teamsters.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, June 3</h3>
+
+<p>Fixing my wagons. Concluded to start on. My teams were scattered but we
+started with what we had. We got over the river at three o'clock, one
+yoke of cattle still missing. I sent the men hunting for them but they
+were not found.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, June 4</h3>
+
+<p>Again sent the men hunting cattle. The day was very cold and windy,
+almost as cold as winter. I spent the day fixing a wagon for Diantha
+expecting her on in about two weeks. Lucy Walker called in this
+afternoon and expressed sorrow on account of the treatment of Heber's
+family toward her. Amos Fielding called on his way to the President's
+camp. Towards evening it rained and there was one of the most beautiful
+rainbows I ever saw in my life. We could see its brilliant reflection
+within a few rods of us. In the evening Douzett came for his cow which
+had tarried with ours. He concluded to stay over night. My teamsters
+returned without finding the cattle.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, June 5</h3>
+
+<p>Sent all the men except James Douglas to hunt the cattle. About nine
+o'clock my adopted son Thomas Corbich returned with them. I then waited
+till two o'clock for the men to return, three of them being still
+absent. I have now eleven wagons, sixteen yoke of oxen, six cows,
+five horses, and six teamsters, besides my brother James, whose names
+are Conrad Neil, Levi N. Kendall, James Douglas, Milton F. Bartlett,
+Willard Smith, and A. E. Hinkel, four of the latter are new to me
+and do not seem to know much about teaming. At two o'clock I concluded
+to start on and after about an hour's preparation we started. The men
+took two teams each. I drove the cows on foot. The roads are a great
+deal better. We traveled about six miles and camped on a hill beyond
+nice timber. Pitt is here and Brother Taylor's camp. Amos called on his
+way back to England. He stayed and conversed a while. I will here say
+that the oxen put in by Brothers Olive and Rich to take church property
+are very poor and some of them scarcely of any use. We arrived here
+about half past six o'clock. The day has been cold, fine and fair.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, June 6</h3>
+
+<p>The morning very fine. We started out at eight o'clock; Pitt joined
+with us. I went on foot to drive the cows. About ten o'clock we had a
+little rain. After traveling about seven miles we arrived at a piece
+of timber where the patriarch John Smith was resting. We concluded to
+rest our teams here and stopped at half past eleven. At one o'clock we
+started again and soon after had a heavy thunder shower. I was about
+a mile ahead of the wagons and having no shelter was soon completely
+drenched with rain. It got very cold while raining. As soon as the
+wagons came up we stopped till the shower was over which did not last
+long. We then pursued our journey and at six o'clock camped on the open
+prairie a long way from timber, having traveled about sixteen miles.
+After the shower the day was fine. I was very tired and wet and after
+eating a little went to bed. Vilate Ruth is weaning from the breast
+today which makes her cry.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, June 7</h3>
+
+<p>Inasmuch as we were not near timber we concluded to travel on till we
+found some. We started at eight o'clock and traveled till two, being
+about nine miles, when we came to a little grove of timber and just
+beyond a bad bottom of prairies. I concluded to pass this and camp on
+the adjoining ridge. I drove the cows all day on foot. My feet were
+sore and blistered. The day was very fine. Sometime after we arrived
+Father John Smith came and camped just below us.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, June 8</h3>
+
+<p>The weather fine. Traveled about ten miles, the roads being very hilly
+and uneven. We camped on a bottom near timber. I went fishing and had
+good success. I drove the cows till noon then rode with family.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, June 9</h3>
+
+<p>Weather fine and hot. Went fishing at daybreak with James and had
+good luck. At nine we went on. I rode again. Afternoon three Indians
+overtook us and begged some bread. We camped on a bottom beside Coleman
+and others, having traveled about twelve miles. Two Indians are here
+and we have learned their camp is only three miles from us. President
+Young left word to go in companies from here to avoid being plundered
+by the Indians. We had our cattle tied up and a guard over them through
+the night.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, June 10</h3>
+
+<p>Went fishing at daybreak and caught thirty-six. Weather hot. We started
+about nine o'clock and found the roads good but over hills and ravines
+all the day. At six o'clock we camped in sight of the Pottawattamie
+Indian village. When about two miles from it they discovered us coming
+and we soon saw a number of them riding towards us. Some had bells
+on their horses which frightened our horses and cattle. James and I
+took the horses and let the others take the oxen the best way they
+could. Some of the Indians followed our wagons and inquired often for
+whiskey. We had to pass some timber and a river before we arrived at
+their village which is situated on a very beautiful ridge skirted
+by timber and beautiful rolling prairie. Before we arrived at the
+timber it seemed that the whole village had turned out, men, women,
+and children, some on horses and many on foot. Their musicians came
+and played while we passed them. They seemed to escort our wagons and
+asked if we were Mormons. When we told them we were they seemed highly
+pleased. It took us some time to cross the bridge over the river and
+then we were perfectly surrounded by Indians apparently from curiosity
+and friendship. They watched us cross the bridge and others followed
+on with us. The boys seemed to learn the words our teamsters used to
+drive the cattle and would run and in their way help to drive. They
+manifested every feeling of friendship and nothing unkind or unfriendly
+transpired. Soon after we passed the bridge we were met by Jas. W.
+Cummings and the brethren from Shariton Ford with John L. Butler to
+bring Emmet's company to meet us. The cattle have been with Emmet's
+company from the time they left Nauvoo. The road leads within about
+two hundred yards of the Indians and I wanted to go about two miles
+farther to save the necessity of having a guard but soon after we left
+the village we had to ford a stream which was deep and bad to cross.
+I then concluded to camp on the ridge above the ford and in sight
+of the village, being about a half or three quarters of a mile from
+them. Many of them followed us, men, women and children and watched
+all our movements but about dark all departed in peace. They seemed
+well pleased with their visit. They certainly showed every mark of
+friendship and kindness imaginable and treated us as brothers. We
+learned that the chief's daughter was buried today. We have traveled
+about fifteen miles. From Cummings we learned that Emmet had left his
+things belonging to the company with him. Part of the company has
+crossed at St. Louis and are now on the line here. The agent of the
+U. S. refuses to let them pass. The other part of the company are
+thirty miles below the bluffs expecting us to cross there.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, June 11</h3>
+
+<p>Many of the Indians again came to the camp with the same friendly
+feeling. Some squaws came to trade. We started soon after nine, the
+weather being very hot. We traveled over about five miles of very
+uneven road. The rest was good. We had to travel till late before we
+came to water. We camped on a small creek where Coleman and Tanner were
+camped, having traveled about fourteen miles.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, June 12</h3>
+
+<p>Traveled about three miles, the weather being very hot. We camped on
+a beautiful ridge where the main body had evidently left but little
+before, beside a large rapid stream. I concluded to stay here until
+Monday to rest our teams and give their shoulders a chance to heal,
+several of which were very sore.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, June 13</h3>
+
+<p>Fixing a wagon, etc. The weather very hot. Evening killed one of our
+cows. The mosquitoes here began to be very troublesome, there being so
+many of them and so bloodthirsty.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, June 14</h3>
+
+<p>The weather very hot and the mosquitoes tremendously bad. This morning
+I weighed bread for each man at the rate of a half a pound a day.
+They seem very much dissatisfied and growl to each other very much. I
+weighed for my family of ten as much as I weighed for six teamsters.
+They were dissatisfied but we had some left. They have hitherto had
+all they wanted three times a day and above this have eaten up a bag
+of crackers unknown to me which I had reserved for the mountains.
+The mosquitoes being so bad, I concluded to go on a little piece. We
+started at 1:00 p.m. and traveled until four when we arrived at a small
+clear stream having traveled about six miles. I camped here and in the
+evening told the men a part of what I thought of their conduct.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, June 15</h3>
+
+<p>The morning cooler but mosquitoes bad. Our horses were missing and
+we were detained till ten o'clock before we could start. The horses
+had gone back to where we left yesterday. We traveled till sundown
+before we came to water, being about twelve miles. We camped near to
+C. L. Whitney.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, June 16</h3>
+
+<p>Started at 7:30 and traveled about twelve miles when we came in sight
+of the Missouri river and the main camp about five miles farther. We
+soon learned that some of the camp were coming back to find water.
+There being no water where we were, we moved back about two miles to a
+spring and there camped expecting to stay until we should learn what to
+do.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, June 17</h3>
+
+<p>This morning Kay and Duzett rode up and said they were anxiously
+expecting us at the camp and wanted us to go immediately. I went to
+the camp with them to look out a place while my men yoked up and
+brought the wagons. When I arrived I saw Heber. He seemed pleased to
+see me and went with me to look out a place to camp. I fixed a spot
+between President Young's camp and Bishop Miller's. Heber said the
+twelve had an invitation to go to the village to the agent's to dinner
+and they wanted the band to go with them. I went back to meet the
+wagons which had been detained on account of some of the cattle being
+missing. As soon as my wagons arrived I got ready and started in Heber
+s carriage with Heber, Bishop Whitney, and Smithies. Edward Martin,
+Pitt, Hutchinsoo, Kay and Duzett rode in the other carriage. When we
+arrived at Mr. Mitchell's, the agent's place, we were introduced to him
+one by one. We then played and Kay sang until about five o'clock when
+we returned. This village is situated but a little distance from the
+river, probably fifty rods. It is composed of twelve or fifteen blocks,
+houses without glass in the windows, and is the noted place where the
+Lamanites for years held their council. The inhabitants are composed of
+Lamanites, half breeds and a few white folks. I had an introduction to
+Sarrapee an Indian trader. We arrived home just at dusk.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, June 18</h3>
+
+<p>Fixing a wagon all day. Evening went fishing. Spoke to Bishop Whitney
+about some more teams.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, June 19</h3>
+
+<p>Fixing wagons and preparing to send off some things to trade. Evening
+went fishing. Went with the band to hold a concert at the village. Many
+went from the camp. The Indians and half breeds collected $10.10 and
+gave it to us and the agent Mr. Mitchel gave a dinner to all that came.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, June 21</h3>
+
+<p>At home until evening. At 5:00 met with the brethren of the camp and
+acted as clerk while they selected men to build the boat.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, June 22</h3>
+
+<p>Fixing my wagons. The day was windy and cold. I was informed yesterday
+that Diantha is twenty miles back from Mt. Pisgah with her father still
+farther back. They have sent her chest on to Pisgah and she is with
+Loren. I partly made up my mind to start in the morning and bring her.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, June 23</h3>
+
+<p>This morning I got my food ready to start after Diantha but Vilate Ruth
+seemed quite sick and I concluded not to start. We took the teams and
+went to the village to pick gooseberries but it rained nearly all the
+time we were gone. I bought a scythe and some other things and tried
+to trade a watch for a yoke of cattle. Major Mitchel offered me three
+yoke for the gold watch. We got home about 3:00. I then went and told
+the President about Mitchel's offer and he told me to sell it. It was
+so cold and wet and windy we went to bed early and soon after we got
+to bed, Heber and Dr. Richards came to my wagon with two letters from
+Diantha, one dated Nauvoo, May 17, 1846, the other Big Prairie, June
+18th. She tells that she is sent on by her father and is with Loren and
+is very anxious that I should bring her or send for her. I made up my
+mind to start tomorrow. The night was very stormy with strong winds and
+heavy rains.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, June 24</h3>
+
+<p>The morning wet and cold. I went over to President Young and told him
+where I was going and what for. He said he would get the cattle for me.
+I also spoke to Heber and he said: "Go and prosper." At 11:00 I went
+to council and President Young, Kimball and Taylor concluded also to
+go to Pisgah after the cannon. I started at two o'clock it then being
+fair. At five o'clock I passed Father Knowlton's company thirteen miles
+from camp and at seven passed Laharpe's company and inquired of Brother
+Burgham and Freeman about Diantha but could not learn much from them.
+Brother Ezra Bickford was here on his way back to Nauvoo. He said he
+was tired from riding on horseback and asked if I would let him go with
+me to Pisgah and use his horse in the wagon. I told him to come on. I
+soon found it made a difference in the load. We went on about two miles
+and stopped at dark on the middle of the prairie near no water. After
+feeding we lay down to rest. We had several heavy showers through the
+night.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, June 25</h3>
+
+<p>This morning arose at four o'clock and moved our wagon a little to
+fresh grass to let the horses feed, they being tied to it. It is fair,
+but cloudy. We started again at 5:30 a.m., traveled till 10:00 then
+rested till 2:00 and then traveled until dark, making thirty-one miles.
+We camped just beyond the Indian village in the midst of a severe
+thunder storm. It rained most of the day and the roads were bad.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, June 26</h3>
+
+<p>Did not start until after seven. Morning fair, roads bad. After
+traveling about six miles we found Horace Clark and others camped on
+one side of a small stream and Orson Spencer on the other side. The
+creek was full of water to the bank and in the deepest place about six
+feet over the bridge and a part of the bridge washed away. We tarried
+until 3:00 and then concluded to try to get over. Walter L. Davis and
+Wm. D. Huntington volunteered to help us over. We unloaded the wagon
+box for a boat, taking a few of our things over at a time. When we got
+them all over we swam the horses over, loaded up, and at 5:00 started
+again and went till near nine having traveled about sixteen miles.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, June 27</h3>
+
+<p>The day was fine and we traveled about thirty-eight miles and camped
+on the prairie about eight miles from Pisgah. During the day we passed
+some U. S. officers on their way to see President Young and the
+council. We afterwards learned that they professed to be going to the
+authorities of the church by order of the President of the United
+States to raise five hundred volunteer Mormons to defend Santa Fe, etc.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, June 28</h3>
+
+<p>At daybreak it rained again. We started at four o'clock and arrived
+at Pisgah at eight. Had some conversation with Father Huntington and
+C. C. Rich. We fed and at nine o'clock started again. We soon
+saw Brother Woodruff. He was glad to see me and we conversed together
+some time. From him I learned that Missouri had sent up a committee to
+Pisgah to search for forts and cannon, etc. He says the Missourians
+are terrified and many are moving from the back to the interior
+settlements. He also stated that we have a friend in the British
+Parliament and the British had held a private council in relation to
+the treatment of the U. S. towards us. Britain is making great
+preparations for war. They have sent ten thousand troops to Canada
+and a fleet around Cape Horn to Oregon. They are intending to arm
+the slaves of the south and have their agents in the Indian country
+trying to bring them in war to fight the U. S. After we left
+Elder Woodruff we passed on and soon met Sister Durpee and Brother
+Lott and his company. He said Diantha was back about four miles. Soon
+after we met Orville Allen and from him learned that Diantha was back
+at least twelve miles. We continued on and at two o'clock fed. We
+arrived at Father Chase's between four and five o'clock. Diantha was
+very glad to see me and burst into tears. My little boy is far beyond
+all my expectations. He is very fat and well formed and has a noble
+countenance. They are both well and I feel to thank my heavenly Father
+for his mercies to them and Father Chase and to his family and may the
+Lord bless them for it, and oh Lord, bless my family and preserve them
+forever. Bless my Diantha and my boy and preserve their lives on the
+earth to bring honor to Thy name and give us a prosperous journey back
+again is the prayer of thy servant William. Amen. At night we had a
+heavy thunder storm. It rained very heavily.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, June 29</h3>
+
+<p>The morning is cool and cloudy, the ground very wet. Brother Bickford
+is gone to Nauvoo. Left Father Chase's company about 10:30 a.m. They
+kindly furnished us with bread stuffs sufficient to last us to camp. We
+arrived at Mt. Pisgah and stayed near Father Huntington's.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, June 30</h3>
+
+<p>This morning in council with President Huntington, Rich and Benson
+until nine o'clock a.m. Took breakfast with Elder Rich and then started
+on. We passed Brothers Woodruff, and Lott and their companies about
+twelve miles from Pisgah. After traveling about twenty-six miles we
+turned onto the big prairie for the night. The weather fine and roads
+good.</p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-3>July 1846</h2>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, July 1</h3>
+
+<p>P. P. Pratt passed about six o'clock. We afterwards learned that
+he was going on express to Pisgah to raise the 500 volunteers to go to
+Santa Fee. After traveling about seven miles we rested with Brother
+Weeks and ate breakfast, then went on till two o'clock and stopped to
+feed. We continued on till dark, having traveled about seventeen miles.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, July 2</h3>
+
+<p>Having lost the horses during the night I went back four miles to hunt
+them. I met someone and enquired about them, asking if he had not seen
+them. Went back to camp and ate a little and afterwards found them
+about a mile west. We started about ten o'clock and at sundown passed
+the Indian village and the stream at which we previously camped. We
+camped about two miles west of the Indian village.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, July 3</h3>
+
+<p>Started early and went about four miles to a creek where we ate
+breakfast. The day very hot but we traveled about twenty-five miles.
+We met President Young, Heber Kimball, and Dr. Richards going back
+to raise volunteers. They feel that this is a good prospect for our
+deliverance and if we do not do it we are downed. We went on and camped
+near Hiram Clark and took supper with him.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, July 4</h3>
+
+<p>This morning my horses were missing and five from Clark's company
+were missing. I found them a little west of the camp and started on.
+Diantha having eaten nothing this morning I tried to buy some bread but
+could not get it till I got home. I arrived at three o'clock and found
+my little Vilate sick, the rest all well. I went over to Council at
+Captain Allen's tent.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, July 5</h3>
+
+<p>At home all day. Conrad has left and gone to Elder Hyde's. The weather
+is very hot. My traders have got back and brought twenty bushels of
+corn, but only one of wheat.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, July 6</h3>
+
+<p>Spent the day fixing wagons. Day very hot. Bishop Whitney called to see
+us. They are getting over the river as fast as possible but it is slow
+work.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, July 9</h3>
+
+<p>Spent the two previous days fixing wagons and today went down to the
+river to see about crossing, etc. Took my family with me.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, July 10</h3>
+
+<p>Fixing my wagons, also Saturday unpacked the dry goods wagon and
+repacked it.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, July 12</h3>
+
+<p>Went to the meeting at Elder Taylor's camp. In the evening President
+Young, Kimball and Richards returned. They requested me to go to
+Taylor's to council. I went and tarried till dark, wrote a letter to
+the Quadrille band to meet tomorrow also wrote orders for all the men
+in camp to meet.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, July 13</h3>
+
+<p>Went to the general meeting and played with the band and then kept
+minutes. They got three companies of 43 each and half of a fourth
+company. All my teamsters have enlisted. I am now destitute of help.
+Edward Martin is advised to go and leave his family in my charge. I
+have still four yoke of oxen missing and I do not know where to find
+them. Last night James was seized with a fit and is quite unwell today,
+mostly insensible. Vilate Ruth is quite sick and on the whole my
+situation is rather gloomy. The meeting adjourned at five till tomorrow
+at eight, after which the company danced till dark.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, July 14</h3>
+
+<p>I went over to meeting this morning and told the President my
+situation. He consented for me to go back to my camp to see to things.
+I came back but feel very unwell. Martin's youngest child died at 1:30
+p.m.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, July 15</h3>
+
+<p>Went with Edward Martin to bury his child on a high bluff south of the
+camp. We buried it between two small oak trees, a little east of them,
+the babe's head to the east. After returning Heber sent word for us to
+cross the creek to the other bluff where Elder Taylor is camped. We
+got some of the cattle together and took part of the wagons over and
+then returned for the remainder. As soon as we got there a message came
+that the President wished the band to go to the village. We accordingly
+started but when we got there we found nobody there and after a little
+trading we returned home.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, July 16</h3>
+
+<p>Hunting my horses to take Diantha to see her father's folks who arrived
+yesterday. In the afternoon we started out and went about three miles
+from here. They appeared very glad to see us. We got home again at dark.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, July 17</h3>
+
+<p>Went fishing.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, July 18</h3>
+
+<p>Went to the village to play with the band for the volunteers. They
+danced till near sundown when we returned home.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, July 19</h3>
+
+<p>In the wagon till evening. Sister Farr came to see us. Diantha and I
+went home with her in the evening.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, July 20</h3>
+
+<p>In the morning fixing for our concert. Afternoon the band came with
+their wives and we played and danced till dark. President Young made
+some appropriate remarks exhorting the saints to prayer, etc.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, July 21</h3>
+
+<p>This morning it rained very heavily. Went to council at Elder Pratt's
+camp. The council appointed a council of twelve to preside here, viz.
+Isaac Morley, Geo. W. Harris, James Allred, Thos. Grover, Phineas
+Richards, Herman Hyde, Wm. Peck, Andrew H. Perkins, Henry W. Miller,
+Daniel Spencer, J. H. Hales and John Murdock. I wrote a letter
+informing them of their appointment also instructing them not to let
+any pass over the river unless they could be in time to go to Grand
+Island and cut hay, to watch over the church, establish schools for the
+winter, etc. I spent the remainder of the day at the creek. I asked
+the President what I should do but could get no answer. I have not
+been able to get any satisfaction from any of the council as to what I
+should do and am totally at a loss to know whether to tarry here or go
+on. My provisions are nearly out and my teamsters all gone and nearly
+all the cattle strayed away, and no one to hunt them except James and
+Corbitt and they are sick.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, July 22</h3>
+
+<p>Fixing a wagon for Margaret and re-loading some wagons.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, July 23</h3>
+
+<p>Unpacking church property. Found considerable of it very much damaged
+with wet. I put it out and dried it well and repacked it. Evening went
+with Diantha to see her folks.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, July 24</h3>
+
+<p>Regulating the loading, etc.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, July 25</h3>
+
+<p>Bought 357 pounds of flour at $2.50 per hundred and carried it about
+three hundred yards to my wagons then spent the day fixing wagon
+covers. Evening went to Brother Farr's. About 11:00 a storm arose
+and it soon began to rain heavily and a while after blew a perfect
+hurricane. The thunder was awful and the rain poured in torrents for
+about a half an hour.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, July 26</h3>
+
+<p>This morning the tent is down, wagons drenched and everything looks
+gloomy enough. Scarcely a tent in the camp was left standing and many
+wagon covers torn. A report is circulated that a cow was killed by
+lightning. Much damage is done to wagons, provisions, etc. The cow was
+killed about 200 yards west of my wagons. There was a tent struck also
+but no persons hurt. I went to meeting and heard Benson and Taylor
+preach. Afternoon at my wagons. Evening Bishop Whitney, President Young
+and Kimball called. I made out a bill of goods for them to send east by
+Robert Pierce. They ordered me to go down to the river tomorrow.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, July 27</h3>
+
+<p>Loading wagons, packing, etc., preparing to start. Last night I engaged
+Pelatiah Brown as a teamster. We started soon after noon. I drove the
+cows and James, Corbitt and Brown the teams with twelve wagons. We had
+to leave one cow four yoke of oxen and two horses on the ridge, being
+missing. We got down about six o'clock. Bishop Whitney passed and said
+I should not get over the river tomorrow and I suppose we shall have
+to wait some days. James and Corbitt are both sick and discouraged on
+account of having so little help and so many cattle, etc., to look
+after. They have a hard time of it but I can see no prospects of its
+being better.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, July 28</h3>
+
+<p>James and Corbitt started back to hunt the cattle. I went to the
+village and received $12.00 of Larpey for the cordage I sold to Allen,
+$3.50 is yet my due. I then went and bought some flour of Tanner. While
+we were weighing it a storm arose and it rained and thundered and
+lightninged throughout the day and nearly all night. I have not seen
+more rain fall in a long time.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, July 29</h3>
+
+<p>Got the balance of the flour making 889 lbs., most of it at $2.50 and
+200 lbs. at $2.00. Afternoon went to the village with Alice, Diantha,
+and Margaret. There saw President Young and Heber. They have just
+bought a pony and some cloth, etc., and seem to have money enough but
+there is none to buy me flour. I yet lack about a ton.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, July 30</h3>
+
+<p>At home all day. Unpacked mother's wagon and found many things wet and
+damaged.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, July 31</h3>
+
+<p>Attending to wagons, cattle, etc., all day.</p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-4>August 1846</h2>
+
+<h3>Saturday, August 1</h3>
+
+<p>This morning I went to the river to see how soon we could cross and
+learned there was a prospect of our crossing this evening or tomorrow
+morning. I then went back to my camp and we started with the wagons a
+few at a time. My brother James is lame in bed. Pitt is lame. Brown
+is lame and Corbitt nearly spent. About noon we got all the wagons to
+the river and Corbitt returned to take the cattle to grass. I went to
+Larpey's and got the balance of the money then went to Mitchel's to try
+to trade my music box for a cow but did not succeed.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, August 2</h3>
+
+<p>Preparing to cross the river. Pelatiah Brown went swimming all the
+forenoon and when Corbitt asked him to help with the teams he swore he
+would not if Jesus Christ would ask him. I told him if he did not feel
+like helping us he could go somewhere else, I did not want him. He went
+and I am again left without a teamster. I will here say that Brown will
+not work only when he has a mind to and during the last week when James
+and Corbitt and Pitt were all gone he would go to the river swimming
+instead of attending to the cattle and I may as well be without a
+teamster as have a man who will go away in a cramp. About noon we
+crossed three wagons over and kept to work until we had got them all
+over which took us till dark. We had to crowd our wagons together in
+the road just above the river on account of its being stopped up by
+other wagons. We could not get our cattle to grass and they have had
+none since last night, but having a few bushels of corn we gave them
+five ears a piece. After supper I went fishing with Wm. F. Cahoon and
+others until two o'clock but had very poor luck.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, August 3</h3>
+
+<p>Started this morning to get our wagons on the prairie. The road is very
+narrow and bad, up steep bluffs and very muddy. It took four yoke of
+oxen to take a very light load. When we had got four of the wagons up
+eight yoke of Bishop Whitney's cattle came to help us and afterwards
+nine yoke of President Young's and Kimball's. We got to the prairie
+about noon and stopped to feed our cattle. I sent on five wagons with
+the teams sent to help us and after feeding about an hour started with
+the remainder. I drove the spare cattle and horses. We got the wagons
+to camp about six o'clock. One of President Young's oxen killed himself
+when going to drink, being so eager he pitched into the creek and broke
+his neck. When we got to camp we were all completely tired. My feet
+were sore and my limbs ached and had to go to bed. We camped on the
+north end of Heber's company. We have left nine head of cattle over the
+river yet and there is little prospect of being able to find some of
+them.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, August 4</h3>
+
+<p>This morning Heber's company have moved on about two days journey and
+again left me here alone. I loaned C. L. Whitney three yoke of
+oxen to help him through. They are gone to find a place within thirty
+miles of here to winter. I spent the day doing little, being so unwell.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, August 5</h3>
+
+<p>Moved down a little nearer water. There spent the day fixing Ruth's
+wagon. Corbitt has gone over the river to hunt cattle and in the
+evening returned with one yoke.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, August 6</h3>
+
+<p>Putting covers on Margaret's and mother's wagons, etc. Afternoon
+writing copy of the returns of companies.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, August 7</h3>
+
+<p>Spent the forenoon writing copy of return of companies of the
+U. S. army. About noon two of Heber's teamsters came with some
+cattle to help me to the main camp. I left off writing and went to
+putting the wagons in order. While fixing a chicken coop I struck my
+forehead with a hammer which disabled me from work the remainder of the
+day.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, August 8</h3>
+
+<p>This morning we arose about three o'clock and while some took the
+cattle to graze the rest got the wagons loaded, etc., ready to start.
+We got away soon after sunrise. I rode a mule and drove the cows. We
+traveled about nine miles before we came to any water. Here we took the
+teams from the wagons to a spring about a quarter of a mile from the
+road. The cattle seemed tired but one of the teamsters said it was only
+about three miles farther and should soon be there. We concluded to go
+on without stopping to feed. But before we had proceeded far some of
+the cattle gave out, the day being very hot, and before we got to camp
+several yoke gave up entirely and were left on the road and brought
+afterwards. One of the cattle died almost as soon as they took him from
+the wagon, being about a mile from camp. Two or three others were not
+expected to live. When we arrived Heber wanted us to form on his north
+line but we could only get half of our wagons into the space left for
+the whole of them. I then moved over to the south side and formed next
+to D. Russell. We got our tent up but can have no fire until Monday.
+The cattle are so tired we will not use them. I feel about sick myself.
+Heber's camp is formed in a kind of parallelogram, each wagon camped
+in a perfect line with the others. The square in the center is about
+twenty-five rods long and fifteen rods wide.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, August 9</h3>
+
+<p>Writing copy of return of companies of U. S. army all day.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, August 10</h3>
+
+<p>Attending to various business about the wagons all day.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, August 11</h3>
+
+<p>Last night I had a severe chill and felt sick all day mostly with high
+fever. Quite unable to work.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, August 12</h3>
+
+<p>Quite sick, very bad fever all day.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, August 16</h3>
+
+<p>Since Wednesday have scarcely even been out of bed, but kept with
+raging fever all the time. Twice Heber has rebuked my fever but it has
+returned. Through fear and persuasion of my family I have taken some
+pills and medicine given by Dr. Sprague, but seem to grow worse all the
+time. Today I have been very sick. Towards evening my folks concluded
+to get me out of the wagon into the tent where they had prepared a
+bed. Soon after I got into the tent President Young, Dr. Richards,
+G. A. Smith, Orson Pratt, Lorenzo Young and others called to
+see me. When they had been in a few moments President Young called
+O. P. Rockwell into the tent and the feelings we had on seeing him
+cannot be described. He has been in prison some time but when his trial
+came on there was no one to accuse him and the judge discharged him.
+The brethren all laid hands on me and rebuked my disease in the name of
+the Lord, President Young being mouth. I immediately felt easier and
+slept well all night being the first sleep I had had of any account for
+three days and nights.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, August 23</h3>
+
+<p>During the past week I have gained slowly and have been able to walk
+about some. I, however, feel very weak and broken down.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, August 24</h3>
+
+<p>Reading some and fixing a little at my violin. Feel very little better
+but have a better appetite.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, August 25</h3>
+
+<p>We had a thunder storm last night. I do not feel so well this morning
+but took a walk into the woods. I had a very sick day all day.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, August 26</h3>
+
+<p>The morning very cool and cloudy. Let T. Corbitt have a pair of shoes.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, August 27</h3>
+
+<p>Diantha was taken very sick and continued for four or five days.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, August 29</h3>
+
+<p>At night I was seized with fever again and very sick.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, August 30</h3>
+
+<p>Had chill and fever, the chill held me four or five days.</p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-5>September 1846</h2>
+
+<h3>Thursday, September 10</h3>
+
+<p>I still continue very weak and troubled with pain in stomach, etc.
+President Young and Dr. Richards called and brought me a letter from
+David; also said they had got me employment writing at a dollar a day
+or 3c on every hundred words copying.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, September 12</h3>
+
+<p>Still quite unwell. President Young brought me $8.00 in money, one half
+dollar bogus and soon after Dr. Richards sent me some letters to copy
+which I did.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, September 15</h3>
+
+<p>This evening I copied a letter to Joseph F. Herring and having no one
+to send it by I took it to council myself. Before I got half way there
+my knees failed me and it was with great difficulty I got there and
+home again. When I got back to Pitt's shanty my spirit failed me for I
+was not aware of my weakness.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, September 19</h3>
+
+<p>Since Tuesday I have scarcely been out of bed, but today I feel
+somewhat better again.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, September 20</h3>
+
+<p>A little better. I have been told that President Young has virtually
+cursed all who have gone to Missouri or those who shall go hereafter.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, September 21</h3>
+
+<p>This evening about ten o'clock all the men of the camp were ordered
+up armed to meet in this square forthwith. I got up and after a very
+little while quite a company of the brethren got together. President
+Hales informed them that the President had received a letter from Mr.
+Sarpey informing him that two gentlemen from Missouri had informed him
+confidentially that the Missourians had got out writs for the twelve
+and others and were coming with a large force on the west side of the
+river to attack the camp by surprise, etc. He advised the brethren to
+have their arms clean and their ammunition ready at a moment's warning,
+to pray with their families, keep dogs tied up at nights, etc., etc.
+The company was then dismissed except a guard for the camp.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, September 22</h3>
+
+<p>This morning the brethren were ordered to meet at the springs below
+here at nine o'clock. At the sound of the drum the brethren met and
+here organized into four battalions, one of artillery, and three
+of infantry. There were about three hundred brethren present. The
+President then stated that he had received a letter from Sarpey
+informing him that two gentlemen, confidentially, from Missouri had
+informed him that the Missourians were collecting with the sheriff
+of Missouri, their head designing to attack the saints, that they
+had writs, etc., for the twelve and others. He had ordered out the
+brethren that they might be ready in case of necessity and advised
+them to organize and be prepared. Markham was elected Colonel over the
+battalions. Hosea Stout, Lieutenant Colonel over the battalions and
+over the first battalions and over the first battalions of infantry.
+John Scott was elected 1st major and major over the artillery. Henry
+Herriman 2nd major to take command of the 2nd battalion of infantry and
+John S. Gleason 3rd major over the 3rd battalion of infantry. After
+organizing the President addressed the companies and then dismissed
+them. It was advised to quit leaving and move the encampment to the
+fort on the river. A number of teams moved this afternoon.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, September 23</h3>
+
+<p>This morning President Young and many others have moved down to the
+river. Heber told me to wait till the lots were selected and he would
+let me know when to move. My health is improving.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, September 24</h3>
+
+<p>Very cold all day. I did not feel so well. I have been told that Daniel
+H. Wells and William Cutler have arrived in camp and brought a report
+that there has been a battle fought in Nauvoo and some of the brethren
+killed.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, September 25</h3>
+
+<p>I learned today that the mob had made it known that they were coming
+to drive out the "Mormons." The Governor sent an officer to raise
+volunteers to disperse the mob, but the mob learning this they came
+sooner than they had calculated. The brethren being apprised of
+the intentions of the mob prepared to meet them as well as their
+circumstances would permit. Some of the new citizens also made
+preparations to join the brethren. They made five cannon shot of an
+old steam boat shaft. They also filled some barrels with powder, old
+iron, etc., which were buried in the pass to the city which could
+be fired by a slow match but this was of no avail as some traitors
+informed the mob of it, hence they did not come into the settled part
+of the city. On Saturday the 12th inst., the mob made their appearance
+being about twelve hundred in number. The brethren and some of the
+new citizens in the whole about one hundred and sixty went to give
+them battle, but many of the new citizens and some of the brethren
+when they saw the numbers of the mob fled and left about one hundred,
+nearly all brethren, to fight the enemy. The mob had pieces of cannon.
+They met near Boscow's store on Winchester street. The cannon of the
+mob were two blocks from the brethren and the other part of rifle men
+one block from them. The mob fired a number of times into Barlow's old
+barn expecting many of the brethren were concealed there but in this
+they were disappointed, the brethren chiefly lying down on the ground
+behind some shelter and fired in that position. They fought one hour
+and twenty minutes when the mob offered terms of compromise which were
+these, that all the "Mormons" should leave the city within five days
+leaving ten families to finish the unsettled business. The brethren
+consented to this inasmuch as they had been well informed that 1,500
+more were coming to join the mob and they had nothing to expect from
+the authorities of the state. Lyman Johnson, one of the twelve, headed
+a party of the mob from Keokuk, Iowa territory. Three of the brethren
+were killed, viz. William Anderson, his son, and Norris, a blacksmith.
+Three others wounded. The mob would not own to any of their party being
+killed but one person saw them put sixteen men into one wagon and
+handled them more like dead persons than wounded. The ground where they
+stood was pretty much covered with blood, so that there is no doubt
+they had many slain or wounded. They had 150 baggage wagons. Esquire
+Wells took command of the brethren and rode to and fro during the whole
+battle without receiving injury, although the balls whistled by him on
+every side. Amos Davis fought bravely. While running across a plowed
+field he stumbled and fell on his left arm which formed a triangle with
+his head. As he fell a cannon ball passed through the angle of his
+arm between that and his head. Hiram Kimball received a slight wound
+with a musket ball on the forehead. The mob fired sixty-two shots with
+the cannon and ten rounds with the muskets making 12,000 musket balls
+only killing three and wounding three. The brethren did not fire so
+much in proportion but did much more execution. Truly, the Lord fights
+the battles of his saints. The cannon of the brethren was not of much
+service, they would not carry more than a quarter of a mile, whereas
+those of the mob would hold well a half a mile. They shot nine balls
+through a small smith shop, one through Wells' barn and one at his
+house but the ball struck the ground in front of his house and glanced
+through the well curb. The mayor of Quincy watched the battle from the
+tower of the temple and owned that history never afforded a parallel.
+The brethren then began to get their families and effects over the
+river where they remain in a suffering and destitute condition until
+wagons and means are sent from the saints to their relief. On the
+Thursday following, the mob, 1,200 strong, entered the city. 'Tis said
+from good authority that such is the distress and sufferings of the
+saints as actually to draw tears from this mob.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, September 26</h3>
+
+<p>Russell told me that he had selected three lots for us and we could go
+as soon as we had a mind to. He saw Heber on the subject. I made up my
+mind to start on Monday for Winter Quarters.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, September 27</h3>
+
+<p>This morning Brother Smithies came with six yoke of Heber's cattle
+and said we must be ready to start in five minutes while he went to
+water his cattle and although we had everything unprepared we were
+ready before he got back. I felt well enough to drive a team. We
+took six wagons down and camped on the same block with Heber in Cape
+Disappointment. James and Pitt went back to wait for Corbitt who was
+herding cows and in the evening returned with three more wagons.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, September 28</h3>
+
+<p>Got the balance of the wagons and poles, etc., down. I copied three
+letters for Dr. Richards.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, September 29</h3>
+
+<p>Corbitt has started down into the country to fetch potatoes, etc.</p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-0>November 1846</h2>
+
+<h3>Sunday, November 1</h3>
+
+<p>During the last month several times I have been very sick and then
+again would be somewhat better. I still continue to be feeble and
+unable to work. I have one house nearly finished and shall in a few
+days occupy it. Thomas Corbitt has been down the river to fetch a
+load of corn on shares but President Young told me to take the whole
+of it for which I feel very grateful. I have sent my cattle to the
+rushes to be wintered, having but eight tons of hay although James and
+Corbitt worked from twenty-six to thirty days but Russell and Rolfe
+have contrived to work it into their hands, taking as Rolfe said, half
+of Corbitt's hay for herding my cattle while he was in the hay field.
+I think this is as wrong a piece of business as has been played on me
+through the journey.</p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-6>January 1847</h2>
+
+<p><em>Winter Quarters</em></p>
+
+<h3>Friday, January 1</h3>
+
+<p>Morning at the store. At 2:00 p.m. went with Diantha to her father's
+and partook of a roast turkey for dinner. At 4:00 met the band at the
+Basket Shop and played about an hour and a half. The basket makers
+made each of us a present of a new basket and showed their gratitude
+various ways. At 6:00 met with the band at Father Kimball's and played
+for a party till after one o'clock. President Young and Kimball danced
+considerable and all seemed to feel well.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, January 2</h3>
+
+<p>At the store regulating the books and making out Whitney and Woolley's
+account current, etc. About 2:00 p.m. Sarah came and said her mother
+wanted me. Moroni had fallen into the fire and burned himself very
+badly. I went home and found as she said. All over the left side of
+his head burned, his face very badly burned, large blisters round his
+left eye. I immediately applied some consecrated oil and ordered them
+to keep it on all the time. I then returned to the store. Evening
+President Young came and took his hardware bill, domestic drilling,
+etc. About 8:00 p.m. I went home.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, January 3</h3>
+
+<p>Moroni's face seems much better, all except around his left eye which
+looks very bad. I was at the store all day working at Whitney's account
+current which seems very bad to regulate. Evening Heber, his wife
+Ellen, Sarah Ann and Sister Whitney came in to trade and remained till
+about ten o'clock.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, January 4</h3>
+
+<p>At the store all day. Evening waiting on Orson Pratt and Amasa Lyman.
+Paid my tax today, $2.17½ to I. C. Wright.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, January 5</h3>
+
+<p>At the store all day. Evening the band met at my house.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, January 6</h3>
+
+<p>At the store all day, the weather extremely cold.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, January 7</h3>
+
+<p>At the store, the weather still colder than yesterday. Evening went to
+Sister Buel's and took supper of turkey. Afterwards went to Leonard's
+and played for them with Hutchinson and Smithies till 12:00.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, January 8</h3>
+
+<p>At the store again, the weather still colder. Evening the band met at
+my house and played some.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, January 9</h3>
+
+<p>At the store all day. Quite unwell till 9:00 p.m.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, January 10</h3>
+
+<p>At home mostly all day. About 2:00 p.m. went to Hutchinson's to dinner.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, January 11</h3>
+
+<p>At the store all day, the weather more moderate. Margaret and her boy
+doing well. Last night Pitt returned from Missouri.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, January 12</h3>
+
+<p>This morning Ruth began to feel unwell. I went to the store and
+continued settlements as usual. Brothers Lee and Russell returned
+from Missouri, having obtained change for the checks. About 4:00 p.m.
+President Young and J. D. Lee came to Bishop Whitney's and I
+received in gold $496.17, and in silver $1,080.52 out of three checks
+which Lee took value $2,447.32, the balance to be accounted for
+hereafter. Soon as I was through receiving the money, I was informed
+that my folks had sent for me and I went home soon after, found that
+Ruth had brought forth a son twenty minutes after 5:00 p.m. She had a
+pretty hard time, but feels comfortable as can be expected. The boy is
+named Newel Horace. Evening I met with the band at Johnson's and played
+till about 11:00 p.m. The house was very much crowded and not much room
+to dance, but they kept it up freely.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, January 13</h3>
+
+<p>This morning Ruth feels more comfortable. At the store all day waiting
+for Lee and Russel to settle. Evening Russel came and I received from
+him in gold $177.50, and in silver $363.19. He also accounted for
+$150.00 paid to Heber and $30.00 to Daniel Russel out of a check value
+$732.53 leaving him deficit $11.84. Spent the evening at home.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, January 14</h3>
+
+<p>At the store paying out a pair of the money, expecting before I made
+final payments to settle with Lee and Egan.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, January 15</h3>
+
+<p>Spent an hour with Lee and Egan at my house but did not accomplish
+much towards a settlement. Afterwards at the store paying out money,
+settling, etc., filled bills for Pisgah &amp; Garden Grove.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, January 16</h3>
+
+<p>At the store again paying, settling, etc., all day. The weather very
+cold. My folks doing well.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, January 17</h3>
+
+<p>At home mostly all day.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, January 18</h3>
+
+<p>At the store all day, mostly paying money to the soldiers' wives.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, January 19</h3>
+
+<p>At the store paying money, etc.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, January 20</h3>
+
+<p>At the store paying money, etc.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, January 21</h3>
+
+<p>At the store paying money, etc.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, January 22</h3>
+
+<p>At the store paying money, etc. Evening went with Hutchinson to
+Packer's party and played for the party in the smoke till near midnight.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, January 23</h3>
+
+<p>At the store all day paying money, etc. Evening met with Pitt and
+Hutchinson at the council house.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, January 24</h3>
+
+<p>Headache all day having taken cold last evening. Mostly at home. A few
+hours at the store over the river and back. Night played with Pitt
+awhile.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, January 25</h3>
+
+<p>At the store, very busy paying money, etc. Snowed some and is cold.
+Whitney let me have some goods. Evening walked alone.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, January 26</h3>
+
+<p>At the store till 2:00 p.m. Afterward went with the Quadrille Band to
+the Council House agreeably to previous notice and played for a party
+of men (70's) and their families who had assisted in building the
+house. They danced till about midnight. We had plenty to eat and drink
+through the interview and a very pleasant party.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, January 27</h3>
+
+<p>At the store again till noon. At 2:00 p.m. at the Council House with
+the Quadrille Band and played for another company of those who had
+assisted in building the house. We had plenty of refreshments and a
+very sociable party as on yesterday. Broke up again about midnight.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, January 28</h3>
+
+<p>At the store till noon, and then at the Council House with the
+Quadrille Band playing for the third party of those who had assisted in
+building the house, together with the poor basket makers.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, January 29</h3>
+
+<p>At home and the store. Felt quite unwell.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, January 30</h3>
+
+<p>At the store all day settling and paying money to soldiers' wives.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, January 31</h3>
+
+<p>At home all day. Dined with Diantha, Ruth, Margaret and mother Farr on
+a turkey.</p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-7>February 1847</h2>
+
+<h3>Monday, February 1</h3>
+
+<p>At the store all day settling accounts, paying money, etc.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, February 2</h3>
+
+<p>At the store till noon. Afterwards at the Council House with the
+Quadrille Band playing for Brigham's family generally.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, February 3</h3>
+
+<p>At the store till noon. Afterwards at the Council House with the
+Quadrille Band to play for a family meeting of the Young family.
+President Brigham Young was quite sick and seemed very low spirited.
+After the meeting had been opened by prayer, the President called on
+his brothers to stand up by him in the center of the room which they
+did according to age. John Young took his place at the head, then
+Phineas, Joseph, Brigham and Lorenzo. The President then called on
+Heber to take his place in the line inasmuch as he had been recognized
+about fifteen years as a member of the Young family. He took his place
+between Joseph and Brigham. The President then said this was the first
+time that father Young's boys had been together in the same capacity
+for a number of years, etc. After a few remarks the remainder of the
+evening was spent by partaking of a good supper and cheerful dancing
+till about two in the morning, when the party broke up in the best of
+spirits and good feeling.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, February 4</h3>
+
+<p>At the store mostly, evening at home.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, February 5</h3>
+
+<p>At the store till noon, then with the Quadrille Band to play for the
+Silver Greys till midnight.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, February 6</h3>
+
+<p>At the store all day.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, February 7</h3>
+
+<p>At home.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, February 8</h3>
+
+<p>At the store all day.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, February 9</h3>
+
+<p>At the store till 10:00 a.m. Then went with the Quadrille Band in
+Eldridge's carriage to play round the city, but the weather was so cold
+we could not play much. At 2:00 p.m., met with--</p>
+
+<p><em>[No pages from here until April.]</em></p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-9>April 1847</h2>
+
+<p>...into camp from England which will probably detain the camp a few days.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, April 9</h3>
+
+<p>Went with the Quadrille Band over the River as the twelve do not
+start for the Horn today. We played in the boat as we crossed, but in
+returning the wind was high, the boat heavily loaded with cattle and
+dangerous crossing.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, April 10</h3>
+
+<p>At home nearly all day.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, April 11</h3>
+
+<p>At home and Farr's. I told Winslow Farr concerning Hosea Stout's
+threats to take my life after the Twelve are gone, etc. He called at
+night on his return from the Council and told me to be on my guard.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, April 12</h3>
+
+<p>At home all day. Thomas and James had planted a number of garden seeds
+on Saturday. Today, they are cutting wood and preparing to go to the
+farm tomorrow. I have no hay, neither can I get any for my cows and
+horses.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, April 13</h3>
+
+<p>At home most of the day. Thomas and James started for the farm. Evening
+went to the store and told Brigham and Heber about Hosea Stout's
+calculations, etc.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, April 14</h3>
+
+<p>This morning severely pained with rheumatism in my face. At 11:00 a.m.
+Brigham and Dr. Richards came. Brigham told me to rise up and start
+with the pioneers in half an hour's notice. I delivered to him the
+records of the K. of G. and set my folks to work to get my clothes
+together to start with the pioneers. At two o'clock I left my family
+and started in Heber's carriage with Heber and Wm. Kimball and Ellen
+Sanders. Bishop Whitney and Lyman went out with us in another wagon.
+We went about 19 miles and camped on the prairie. After supper Heber
+prayed and we retired to rest.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, April 15</h3>
+
+<p>After eating and prayers by Bishop Whitney, started at half past seven
+and got to the Elk Horn at 11:30. We were all across at 12:00 and there
+we overtook Brigham, G. A. Smith, E. T. Benson and Amasa
+Lyman. We arrived at the pioneers' Camp about 3:00 p.m. This camp is
+about twelve miles from the Elk Horn and about 47 from Winter Quarters.
+I spent the evening with Aaron Farr, Horace Whitney and Jackson Redding.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, April 16</h3>
+
+<p>This day is gloomy, windy and cold. About 8:00 a.m. the camp was called
+together, and organized two captains of 100's viz. Stephen Markham
+and A. P. Rockwood were appointed, also five captains of 50's
+and 14 captains of 10's. There are 143 men and boys on the list of
+the pioneer company, three women and Lorenzo Young's two children.
+There are 73 wagons. C. P. Rockwell has gone back to camp with
+J. C. Little. Bishop Whitney, Lyman, Wm. Kimball and J. B.
+Noble returned from here to Winter Quarters. The following is a list of
+all the names of this pioneer company. To wit:</p>
+
+<p>Wilford Woodruff, John S. Fowler, Jacob Burnham, Orson Pratt, Joseph
+Egbert, John N. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, George A. Smith, George
+Wardle, Thomas Grover, Ezra T. Benson, Barnabas L. Adams, Roswell
+Stevens, Amasa Lyman, Sterling Driggs, Albert Carrington, Thomas
+Bullock, George Brown, Willard Richards, Jesse C. Little, Phineas H.
+Young, John Y. Greene, Thomas Tanner, Brigham Young, Addison Everett,
+Truman O. Angel, Lorenzo Young and wife, Bryant Stringham, Albert
+P. Rockwood, Joseph L. Schofield, Luke Johnson, John Holman, Edmund
+Elsworth, Alvarnus Hanks, George R. Grant, Millen Atwood, Samuel Fox,
+Tunis Rappleyee, Harvey Pierce, William Dykes, Jacob Weiler, Stephen H.
+Goddard, Tarlton Lewis, Henry G. Sherwood, Zebedee Coltrin, Sylvester
+H. Earl, John Dixon, Samuel H. Marble, George Scholes, William Henrie,
+William A. Empey, Charles Shumway, Thomas Woolsey, Chancy Loveland,
+Erastus Snow, Andrew Shumway, James Craig, William Wordsworth, William
+Vance, Simeon Howd, Seeley Owen, James Case, Artemas Johnson, William
+A. Smoot, Franklin B. Dewey, William Carter, Franklin G. Losee, Burr
+Frost, Datus Ensign, Franklin B. Stewart, Monroe Frink, Eric Glines,
+Ozro Eastman, Seth Taft, Horace Thornton, Stephen Kelsey, John S.
+Eldredge, Charles D. Barnum, Alma M. Williams, Rufus Allen, Robert T.
+Thomas, James W. Stuart, Elijah Newman, Levi N. Kendall, Francis Boggs,
+David Grant, Heber C. Kimball, Howard Egan, William A. King, Thomas
+Cloward, Hosea Cushing, Robert Byard, George Billings, Edson Whipple,
+Philo Johnson, William Clayton, Appleton M. Harmon, Carlos Murray,
+Horace K. Whitney, Orson K. Whitney, Orrin P. Rockwell, Nathaniel
+Thomas Brown, R. Jackson Redding, John Pack, Francis M. Pomroy, Aaron
+Farr, Nathaniel Fairbanks, John S. Higbee, John Wheeler, Solomon
+Chamberlain, Conrad Kleinman, Joseph Rooker, Perry Fitzgerald, John H.
+Tippets, James Davenport, Henson Walker, Benjamin Rolfe, Norton Jacobs,
+Charles A. Harper, George Woodard, Stephen Markham, Lewis Barney,
+George Mills, Andrew Gibbons, Joseph Hancock, John W. Norton, Shadrach
+Roundy, Hans C. Hanson, Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, John Brown, Mathew
+Ivory, David Powell, (Hark Lay, Oscar Crosby, blacks) Joseph Mathews,
+Gilbroid Summe, John Gleason, Charles Burke, Alexander P. Chessley,
+Rodney Badger, Norman Taylor, (Green Flake, black) Ellis Eames.</p>
+
+<p>There were 72 wagons, 93 horses, 52 mules, 66 oxen, 19 cows, and 17
+dogs, and chickens.</p>
+
+<p>The names of the females in this camp are: Harriet Page Young, Clarissa
+Decker, and Ellen Sanders. The names of the children are Isaac Perry
+Decker Young and Sabisky L. Young, making a total of 148 souls who have
+started to go west of the mountains as pioneers to find a home where
+the saints can live in peace and enjoy the fruits of their labors,
+and where we shall not be under the dominion of gentile governments,
+subject to the wrath of mobs and where the standards of peace can be
+raised, the Ensign to nations reared and the kingdom of God flourish
+until truth shall prevail, and the saints enjoy the fulness of the
+gospel.</p>
+
+<p>The following are the names of the captains of 50's as appointed at
+this organization, viz. Addison Everett, Tarlton Lewis, James Case,
+John Pack and Shadrack Roundy. The captains of 10's are as follows:</p>
+
+<p>Wilford Woodruff, Ezra T. Benson, Phineas H. Young, Luke Johnson,
+Stephen H. Goddard, Charles Shumway, James Case, Seth Taft, Howard
+Egan, Appleton M. Harmon, John S. Higbee, Norton Jacobs, John Brown,
+Joseph Mathews. For the names of the guard and the gun division see
+under date of April 30th.</p>
+
+<p>Stephen Markham was appointed the Captain of the Guard and ordered to
+select out of the camp, fifty men for guard, such as he had confidence
+in who are to be considered as a standing guard, to attend to the
+wagons each night, twelve of them to stand at a time, and to have
+two sets each night, that is, 12 each watch to stand half the night.
+In cases where the horses and cattle are tied some distance from the
+wagons at night, an extra guard is to be selected from the balance of
+the company or camp, the standing guard not being permitted to leave
+the immediate neighborhood of the wagons. After the organization was
+over, I wrote a letter to Diantha, and put it into the hands of Bishop
+Whitney, together with the one I received yesterday from father and
+I. McEwan, also the one from Ellen to James. Up to 12:00 a.m. I had
+no place to put my trunk and clothing, and did not know what to do
+with them. However, soon after Heber told me to put them in Appleton
+M. Harmon's wagon, which was done. At 2:00 p m. the camp started out
+to proceed on the journey. I bid farewell to to Bishop Whitney and
+his brother Lyman and son Joshua, who all returned from this place,
+also Wm. H. Kimball and Joseph B. Noble. We traveled about three miles
+and encamped in a line about six hundred yards from timber, where
+there is plenty of cottonwood and some rushes. This night I slept
+with Philo Johnson, but having only one quilt, and the night severely
+cold, I suffered much, and took a very bad cold. The country in the
+neighborhood of the Elk Horn is one of the most beautiful I ever saw.
+The bluffs on the east are nicely rolling and beautifully lined with
+timber, and some very nice cedar groves. From these bluffs a little
+above the ferry you can see the meanderings of the Platte River, and
+the beautiful level bottom on the north of it, about fifteen miles wide
+for many miles up the river. The Horn is a beautiful river about 150
+feet wide and about four feet deep.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, April 17</h3>
+
+<p>This morning the weather is severely cold, with a strong wind from the
+north and northwest. We started out at nine o'clock and traveled till
+near 12:00 the distance being about seven miles. We camped close by a
+cottonwood grove, and the brethren fell hundreds of them to feed their
+teams and save corn. There is a small lake close by but the water is
+not good and the brethren go to the river about a half a mile. At 5:00
+p.m. the camps were called together and organized in military order as
+follows:</p>
+
+<p>Brigham Young, Lieutenant General.</p>
+
+<p>Stephen Markham, Colonel.</p>
+
+<p>John Pack and Shadrack Roundy, Majors.</p>
+
+<p>The captains of 10's to be captains of 10's in this order, except John
+Pack, who being appointed major, Appleton M. Harmon was appointed
+captain in his stead.</p>
+
+<p>Thomas Bullock, clerk of the camp. Thomas Tanner captain of the cannon
+with the privilege of choosing eight men to manage it in case of
+necessity. The President then said: "After we start from here, every
+man must keep his loaded gun in his hand, or in the wagon where he
+can put his hand on it at a moment's warning. If they are cap locks,
+take off the cap and put on a little leather to keep wet and etc. out.
+If flint locks, take out the priming and fill the pan with twine or
+cotton," etc.</p>
+
+<p>The wagons must keep together when traveling, and not separate as they
+have previously done, and every man to walk beside his own wagon, and
+not leave it only by permission. A while before evening one of the
+trader's wagons came from the Pawnee village, loaded with furs and
+peltry, and camped about one quarter of a mile below us. At night Eames
+and Hanson played some on their violins. All peace and quietness. At
+night I slept with Egan in Heber's wagon, Heber being gone to sleep
+with President Young.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, April 18</h3>
+
+<p>This morning I wrote a letter for Heber to his wife Vilate, which was
+sent by Brother Ellis Eames who has concluded to go back on account of
+poor health, spitting blood, etc. He started back with the trader's
+wagon about eight o'clock a.m. The wind this morning east and southeast
+and very cold, with a slight shower of snow. At 10:00 a.m. seven more
+traders' wagons came in and stopped about one quarter of a mile below
+us, soon after six mules loaded with robes and furs. These traders
+say they have come from the Pawnee village in two days. Brother
+Roundy got some Buffalo meat from them and gave me a little, which
+I thought tasted very good. I commenced writing Heber's journal and
+wrote considerable. He wants me to write his journal all the journey.
+I also wrote considerable in this book. Afternoon the weather more
+moderate and pleasant, the wind has changed near south and the sun
+shines. I walked with Horace Whitney to the river which is about a
+half a mile. At 4:30 p.m. father James Case was cutting a cottonwood
+tree to brouse his horses, and just as it fell the wind struck it and
+threw it directly contrary to the direction he intended it to fall. The
+consequence was, one of the limbs struck an ox on the neck and knocked
+him down. His right eye was knocked down in the socket out of sight.
+The ox doesn't seem seriously hurt otherwise. About 10 minutes after it
+was done, the eye turned back to its place, and the ox seems to have
+sustained little injury. At 5:00 p.m., the officers of the camp met
+with President Young, and he told the order for traveling and camping
+hereafter, which was communicated to the companies by the captains of
+10's as follows:</p>
+
+<p>At 5:00 in the morning the bugle is to be sounded as a signal for
+every man to arise and attend prayers before he leaves his wagon. Then
+cooking, eating, feeding teams, etc., till seven o'clock, at which time
+the camp is to move at the sound of the bugle. Each teamster to keep
+beside his team, with his loaded gun in his hands or in his wagon where
+he can get it in a moment. The extra men, each to walk opposite his
+wagon with his loaded gun on his shoulder, and no man to be permitted
+to leave his wagon unless he obtains permission from his officer. In
+case of an attack from Indians or hostile appearances, the wagons to
+travel in double file. The order of encampment to be in a circle with
+the mouth of the wagon to the outside, and the horses and stock tied
+inside the circle. At 8:30 p.m. the bugle to be sounded again at which
+time all to have prayers in their wagons and to retire to rest by nine
+o'clock. Tonight I went to bed about seven-thirty o'clock suffering
+severely with pain in my head and face. I slept with Philo Johnson.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, April 19</h3>
+
+<p>At 5:00 a.m., at the sound of the bugle I arose, my face still paining
+me very badly. After eating breakfast, I started out on foot, before
+the wagons started, with my rifle on my shoulder. At 7:15 the wagons
+began to move and at 7:30 were all formed in double file and proceeded
+on. After traveling about eight miles we arrived at a number of small
+lakes, where were many ducks. A number of the brethren shot at them and
+killed several. At 1:15 p.m. we arrived at a bend in the river where a
+small stream runs around an island.</p>
+
+<p>We stayed here to feed awhile, having traveled about fifteen miles
+mostly a western course with the wind south. The roads very good and
+the country very level on these flat bottoms of the Platte river
+which bottoms appear to be from ten to fifteen miles wide. Soon
+after the camp was formed, O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding, and
+J. C. Little came in from Winter Quarters. They arrived at 2:10.
+They have found Dr. Richard's mare which was lost east of the Elk
+Horn and brought her to camp. They brought me a line from Diantha
+and one from Ruth and Margaret. In the last was a very gentle piece
+of information which has caused me to reflect much, and proves to me
+that Ruth and Margaret's virtue and integrity have for the last year
+been far superior to mine. In my letter to them I requested them to
+attend to family prayer in my absence, a thing which I have neglected
+since leaving Nauvoo. They informed me that they had done that when I
+was at home but unknown to me, and they had then, and still continue
+to bear me up before their Heavenly Father. Oh, what integrity, what
+faithfulness. I feel unworthy to possess two such treasures, but still
+feel to try to reward them for it, and may my Father in heaven bless
+them, and all my family and let his angels guard them, and me during
+my absence that we may all be permitted to meet again and enjoy each
+other's society in this world for many years to come, and eternal
+in the world to come. O! Lord, grant this prayer of thine unworthy
+servant, and fill my family with peace and union, and open a way that
+they may have the necessaries and comforts of life, and Thy name shall
+have the praise, even so, amen.</p>
+
+<p>I received by Porter, some few fish hooks and lines, a ball of fish
+line and three pencils, but no small hooks nor knives or wafers. At
+twenty minutes after 3:00 p.m. the wagons began to move again, in the
+same order as this morning and traveled until 6:00 p.m. when we arrived
+at a very pretty open view of the Platte river, and the encampment was
+formed in a semi-circle on its banks, having traveled since noon, about
+five miles, and in the whole day 20 miles, over the same kind of dry,
+level, sandy bottom. The river here appears to be about a mile wide
+but very shoal. There is not much timber where we are camped, and the
+water is pretty muddy. I walked some this afternoon in company with
+Orson Pratt and suggested to him the idea of fixing a set of wooden cog
+wheels to the hub of a wagon wheel, in such order as to tell the exact
+number of miles we travel each day. He seemed to agree with me that it
+could be easily done at a trifling expense. After the encampment was
+formed, I went to Brother Luke Johnson and asked him to draw my tooth
+which has pained me so much for a long time. While I was speaking to
+him Stephen Markham came up, and wanted him to take his team and the
+Revenue Cutter the name by which the leather boat is called back about
+two miles, as they designed to seine in one of the lakes. Brother Luke
+Johnson drives the team which draws the boat and rides in the boat as
+in a wagon. I concluded I would go and watch them fish and started out
+on foot. I overtook Markham and John S. Higbee and in our conversation
+I mentioned to Brother John S. Higbee the same idea I had advanced to
+Orson Pratt, and he also seemed to coincide fully. After arriving at
+the lake they launched the boat and made three hauls. They only caught
+a snapping turtle, four small turtles, one duck, two small cat fish,
+and two creek suckers. They then concluded to return and I started on
+foot again with two rifles to carry. I got back to camp before they
+overtook me and being perfectly tired and very footsore, went to bed,
+but had no rest on account of the severe pain in my head and face.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, April 20</h3>
+
+<p>Arose at 5:30, my head and face very bad indeed. I ate but little
+breakfast, although we had a couple of ducks and a snipe. We started
+out at 7:30, the morning pleasant except a strong west wind. At 9:15
+arrived at Shell creek, which is about six or eight feet wide, and a
+poor bridge over it, but all the wagons got well over. This is about
+five miles from where we camped last night. We then passed through a
+small grove of timber, and entered again upon the wide, open prairie
+bottom. At 11:30 we stopped beside a small slough or lake to feed and
+eat, etc., being five miles from Shell creek. While stopping here,
+three deer passed about half a mile west of the wagons. O. P.
+Rockwell and Thomas Brown chased them on horses four or five miles, but
+did not succeed in taking any of them. The wind has fallen considerably
+and it is very warm and dusty. At 1:00 p.m. started again, the horse
+teams taking the lead, traveled about ten miles farther and encamped
+near a cotton wood grove on the banks of the river. The encampment was
+formed about half past five. Tanner's bellows and anvil were set up and
+a number of tires set before dark.</p>
+
+<p>John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, S. Markham, and some others, started
+ahead of the camp about noon, and went about two miles farther than
+this place to a lake with the boat and seine. They took over 200 very
+nice fish, and arrived with them about the time the camp was formed.
+The fish were distributed around the camp according to the number of
+persons in each wagon, generally two to a wagon, and the brethren
+enjoyed a good supper on fish. I went to the river and washed my feet
+which were very dusty and sore. I also washed my socks as well as I
+could in cold water without soap. After Brother Luke Johnson had got
+through distributing fish, I went and asked him to draw my tooth. He
+willingly agreed and getting his instruments, I sat down in a chair,
+he lanced the gum, then took his nippers and jerked it out. The whole
+operation did not take more than one minute. He only got half the
+original tooth, the balance being left in the jaw. After this my head
+and face pained me much more than before. I ate but little supper and
+then lay down, but could not sleep for pain till near morning. The
+evening was very calm and pleasant.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, April 21</h3>
+
+<p>Arose at 5:00, my face easier, but swollen and my gums raw. Took
+breakfast on fish and coffee, but ate no bread, it being very dry and
+hard. I could not bear to put it in my mouth. At seven started on
+foot; the ox teams being gone ahead. Some appearances of rain, and a
+slight shower fell. Wind northeast and pretty cool. At ten minutes to
+nine an Indian rode up to the first wagon and appeared very friendly.
+Soon after six or eight others came running on foot. They came from
+the timber about a mile to the left. At 10:00 we arrived at a fork in
+the road, the one on the left leading to the new Pawnee village, and
+the one to the right leaving the village some distance to the south. A
+consultation was held by President Young with father Case relative to
+the roads crossing the river, etc., when it was concluded to take the
+right hand road. We proceeded accordingly and at 12:00 came in sight
+of the new Pawnee village, in an open spot on the south bank of the
+Loop Fork, between two bodies of timber. The village appeared to be
+about three quarters of a mile south of the road we were on. At 12:30
+we were opposite the village, and could then see distinctly upwards
+of 100 lodges set pretty close together, and appeared to be ranged in
+several lines, and set in good order. We proceeded until we arrived at
+a long narrow lake by the side of the timber and near to the river. At
+1:00 p.m. the encampment was formed on the bank of the lake and a guard
+instantly placed at the passes, as many of the Indians had followed us,
+although they had to wade the river, but it is very shoal. One of the
+Indians presented several certificates from persons who had previously
+traveled through their village, all certifying that the Grand Chief of
+the Pawnees was friendly disposed, and they had made him presents of
+a little powder, lead, salt, etc. Heber gave them a little tobacco,
+and a little salt. President Young gave to the chief, some powder,
+lead, salt and a number of the brethren gave a little flour each. The
+old chief, however, did not seem to think the presents sufficient,
+and said he did not like us to go west through their country, he was
+afraid we should kill their buffalo and drive them off. Brother Shumway
+told him we did not like buffalo, but this does not appear to give
+him much satisfaction. However, there was no appearance of hostility.
+In fact, all that came to camp seemed highly pleased to shake hands
+with our brethren and would run from one side to another so as not
+to miss one. A number of the squaws were on the opposite side of the
+lake with mattocks digging roots. Brother Shumway says there are
+about twelve thousand of the Pawnees in this neighborhood, and it is
+reported that there are five thousand warriors. We did not see many of
+them. Larpy is at their village trading, and it is uncertain whether
+he will endeavor to use an influence for us or against us. We have no
+fear, however, because their only object appears to be plunder, and it
+is the calculation to be well prepared by night and day. During the
+resting hour I spent the time writing in my journal. At 2:15 p.m. the
+ox teams started out again and the horse teams soon after. The weather
+had been calm and pleasant for a few hours, but about 2:00 or a little
+before, some heavy clouds began to gather, and thunder was heard at a
+distance. About 2:30 the rain began to descend heavily, accompanied by
+heavy peals of thunder and vivid lightning which continued till about
+4:00. A strong north wind blew up, the rain and thunder ceased and the
+weather grew very cold. We traveled till 5:30 and the encampment was
+formed on the Loop Fork of the Platte river. After the encampment was
+formed and teams turned out, the brethren were all called together and
+some remarks made by President Young, advising them to have a strong
+guard round the camps tonight. He called for volunteers to stand guard
+and about 100 volunteered amongst whom were all the twelve except Dr.
+Richards. This guard was divided into two companies of fifty each, one
+company to stand the first half the night, and the remainder the last
+half. Those of the twelve who stood took the first watch till 1:00.
+Brigham and Heber both stood on guard. Out of the companies a party
+were stationed as a picket guard some distance from the camp, the
+balance stood near the camp. The night was very cold, with a strong
+wind from the northeast, and in the middle of the night, it rained
+considerable. Our course this morning was about west. This afternoon,
+northwest. We are now within three miles from the bluffs on the north.
+We have traveled today about twenty miles, the roads being good and
+very level. The grass here is short but looks good. The buffalo grass
+is very short and curly like the hair on a buffalo robe. The spring
+grass doesn't seem to be as early here as at the Elk Horn, and the last
+year's growth not being burnt off, will be rather a disadvantage to
+the spring companies. I have noticed all the way on this bottom from
+the Elk Horn, that the ground is full of wild onions which appear far
+richer and larger than any wild onions I ever saw. I have no idea that
+corn would grow here for the land is very dry and loose and sandy, and
+appears poor. The country is beautiful and pleasing to the eye of the
+traveler, although you can only see one kind of scenery for several
+days.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, April 22</h3>
+
+<p>Arose soon after 5:00 a.m., my face very painful again caused by the
+cold. There has been no trouble from the Indians and all is peace and
+safe. The cannon was prepared for action, and stood all night just
+outside the wagons. There was considerable joking this morning on
+account of two of the picket guard having their guns stolen and Colonel
+Markham having his hat stolen. The owners were found asleep while on
+guard and those who found them so, took their guns to be a warning
+to them, but it is difficult for men to keep awake night after night
+after traveling 20 miles in the day, taking care of teams, cooking,
+etc. At 7:30 the camp proceeded again. I went ahead on foot. About one
+quarter of a mile from where we camped is one of the prettiest beds
+of nettle I have seen for some time. Our road this morning lay beside
+pretty heavy timber, and about a westerly course. After traveling two
+miles, crossed Looking Glass creek, a small stream about a rod wide,
+but easily forded. I still went ahead on foot and at 9:45 sat down on
+an Indian grave, on top of a mound from whence is a splendid view of
+the surrounding country for many miles. From southeast to southwest you
+can see the course of the Loop Fork for a number of miles. Northwest a
+level prairie about four miles and then a range of timber. The bluffs
+on the north about seven miles distant, and on the east a level prairie
+for about twenty miles. At this place there is a range of what appears
+to be mounds about a quarter of a mile long, running from northeast to
+southwest. At 12:15 we arrived on the east bank of Beaver River, having
+traveled about ten miles. This stream is about twenty to twenty-five
+feet wide; swift, clear water and pleasant tasting. The banks are
+tolerably well lined with timber. Here we stopped to feed. Some of the
+brethren went to fix the fording place a little, the banks are steep
+on each side and the water a little over two feet deep. At 2:00 p.m.
+started again, the ox teams first. When passing the river a number of
+the brethren stood on the west bank with a long rope which was hooked
+to the wagon tongue and they assisted the teams up the bank. The wagon
+I rode in crossed at two minutes after 2:00, and in a little while all
+were safely over. We proceeded on till half past five, when we arrived
+at the Pawnee Missionary station which is about seven miles from Beaver
+River. The country this afternoon was more uneven, there being many
+steep ditches and rises. The grass appears longer and there is much
+rosing weed. The soil looks black and no doubt would yield a good crop
+of corn. This missionary station was deserted last fall, and Brother
+Miller's company being camped here, they carried the missionaries
+and their effects to Bellview on the Missouri river. This is a very
+beautiful place for a location. On the north and west it is surrounded
+by bluffs, on the south by the Loop Fork at about three quarters of a
+mile distance. On the east by descending prairie. The Plumb Creek runs
+through it, and but a few rods from the missionaries' house. Its banks
+are lined with a little timber. There is also a steep bank on each
+side, and between these banks in the valley which is a few rods wide,
+the Sioux have practiced coming down when they have made their attacks
+on the Pawnees. The ravine is certainly well calculated to shelter
+an enemy from observation when designing to make a sudden attack.
+There are a number of good log houses here, considerable land under
+improvement enclosed by rail fences, and a good quantity of hay and
+fodder, large lots of iron, old and new, several plows and a drag. All
+apparently left to rot. There are also two stoves, etc. The government
+station is a quarter of a mile below, or south where father Case lived
+as government farmer and received $300.00 a year for it, but when Major
+Harvey learned at the last payday, which was last November, that father
+Case had joined the "Mormons" he very politely dismissed him from the
+government service. The Sioux came down sometime ago and burned up
+the government station houses, blacksmith shop and everything, but
+the missionary station they did not touch. This place according to
+my account is 134 miles from Winter Quarters, and a lovely place to
+live. Before dark the President called the camp together, and told
+them they might use the fodder and hay for their teams, but forbade
+any man carrying anything away, even to the value of one cent. He said
+he had no fears of the Pawnees troubling us here, but we had better be
+prepared lest the Sioux should come down and try to steal horses. A
+guard was selected and a picket guard to watch the ravine to the north.
+The cannon was also prepared and Brother Tanner drilled his men to use
+it till dark. At 9:00 p.m. I retired to rest and slept well through the
+night. The variation of the compass is about 12 degrees at this place.</p>
+
+<p>I again introduced the subject of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to
+tell the distance we travel, describing the machinery and time it would
+take to make it, etc., several caught, the idea and feel confident of
+its success.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, April 23</h3>
+
+<p>Arose this morning at 5:30, my face bad again through sleeping cold.
+The air chilly but a very pleasant morning. President Young, Heber and
+others are gone to the river to ascertain where we can best ford it.
+There is a ford a little distance from here, and another about four
+miles above, but the latter is in the neighborhood of another band of
+the Pawnees and they are desirous to avoid it if possible. They started
+out on horseback at a quarter to eight and the camp remained here till
+they returned. Some are working, some fixing wagons, etc. The day is
+now warm and very pleasant. I went to Plumb creek and washed my feet
+which are very sore. The brethren returned at a quarter to 12:00 and
+reported that we would have to go about four miles and there build
+a raft. Tarlton Lewis was appointed to superintend the building of
+the raft. President Young then stated in regard to the plows, iron,
+etc., which lies around here, for the government is owing father Case
+considerable for services, and he has the privilege of taking this for
+his pay. He will do it and if the brethren want the iron, etc., they
+can have by hauling it, one half, and father Case the other half, and
+he (Case) will write and inform them what he has done. I started on
+foot about 12:00 and viewed the ruins of buildings, etc., which the
+Sioux have burned. There is a large quantity of good bar iron, and a
+number of plows, which the brethren put into their wagons on the terms
+proposed by father Case. Two miles from Plumb creek, passed another
+creek not very good to ford, although it is narrow but sandy. Two miles
+farther arrived at the intended crossing place, but the prospect looks
+dull for rafting on account of sandbars and very rapid current. My feet
+were so sore and blistered I could not walk for some time after I got
+there. The sun is very hot and no wind. At 3:20 the wagons arrived and
+prepared to ford the river. Luke Johnson was the first who went over,
+leaving the boat on this side, and although he had no load, nor even a
+wagon box, it was with difficulty he got over. Orson Pratt started next
+with a part of his load. When he had got in about a rod, his horses
+began to sink some in the sand and they could not draw. A number of the
+brethren jumped in and lifted at the wheels, etc., till they got him to
+the bar in the middle. He then started for the other bar and about half
+way across his horses sank in the quicksand so badly that one of them
+fell down. A number of the men immediately went to his assistance and
+took them off the wagon and led them across to the sand bar. President
+Young went over in the boat and took the loading out of the carriage
+into the boat. The carriage was drawn to the sand bar by men with a
+long rope. The brethren then assisted Elder Woodruff's team over in
+the same way, also John Pack's and Wordsworth's. President Young then
+ordered that no more wagons should go over that way, but move up the
+river about a quarter of a mile and camp until morning. The camp was
+formed about 5:30 p.m. The river is not more than two feet deep, but
+there are a great many beds of quicksand which are dangerous to teams,
+and calculated to shake a wagon to pieces. They make a noise when
+crossing the quicksands as if they were going over a stone pavement.</p>
+
+<p>The country here is indeed beautiful and appears rich, but there is
+very little timber. After crossing Plumb creek, there is plowed land
+for nearly two miles on the right but not fenced. It appears to have
+yielded a good crop of corn. The land on the left to the river is level
+and beautiful for a farm. We are now camped about a quarter of a mile
+from the old Pawnee village on a splendid table of land, level and
+pleasant as heart could desire. It is not much over three quarters of
+a mile wide and shielded on the north by beautiful rolling bluffs and
+on the south by the Loop Fork of the Platte. From this bank can be seen
+the timber on the banks of the main Platte, the bottom from here to it
+appears very level. There is something romantic in the scenery around
+here, and the prospect cannot well be exaggerated.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening the captains of tens were called together and a vote
+taken to build two light rafts, Tarlton Lewis to superintend one and
+Thomas Woolsey the other. As many loads of property as can be carried
+over in the boat will be done, and the teams with empty wagons will
+ford it. It is said that by going over several times with teams the
+sand will pack down and be good crossing, several of those who have
+been across believe this from today's experience and they calculate to
+give it a fair trial tomorrow. Amongst the rest of those who waded the
+river to help the wagons over, Brother Kimball joined and assisted one
+team to the other side, and then returned in the boat with President
+Young.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, April 24</h3>
+
+<p>Arose soon after 5:00. Morning fine, but cool. One of Phineas Young's
+horses was choked to death last night. It appears he was tied to a
+stake with a chain near a steep hole in the ravine, and either stepped
+back or lay down and rolled over into the hole, and the chain being
+short he was choked to death, having no power to extricate himself.
+This is a grievous loss for there are no more teams in the camp than
+what are absolutely necessary, and in fact, there are hardly enough to
+get along very comfortably. By request of Brother Kimball, I went up to
+the old Indian village immediately after breakfast to take a view of
+it, and write a description as near as circumstances would permit which
+is as follows:</p>
+
+<p>This village is situated on the north bank of the Loop Fork of the
+Nebraska or Platte river, about four miles southwest of the mission
+station on Plumb creek and 138 miles from Winter Quarters. The Pawnee
+nation is divided into four bands. The names of the bands are the Grand
+Pawnee, the Loop, the Tappas, and the Republican. When the nation
+settled in this region the Grand Pawnees and the Tappas located on the
+west bank of Plumb creek and the Loops located on this spot and were
+afterwards joined by the Republicans. When the Sioux made war on the
+Indians at the first settlement and destroyed their village, the Grand
+Chief saw that his party were unable to cope with their hostile foes
+alone, and it was concluded that the four bands should locate together
+on this spot, but notwithstanding this, the Sioux succeeded in burning
+this village last summer during the absence of the Pawnees when on
+their hunt. They rebuilt most of it again, but last fall the Sioux
+made another attack and burned the whole village except one dwelling
+or lodge, which is not harmed. There are three or four others but
+partially destroyed, the rest are entirely demolished and levelled with
+the ground. The Pawnees then moved to the place where we passed them a
+few days ago, and are dwelling in their lodges made of hides, etc. The
+name of the Grand Chief is Shefmolan, who is also the superior chief
+of the Pawnee band. All documents or treaties made by the nation are
+signed by this chief and the nation is then bound by them. The head
+chief of the Loup band is named Siscatup, the other chiefs, father Case
+did not recollect their names. From him I obtained this information.
+There is a part of the Loup band on the main Platte, some distance from
+here, who have never yielded to the government treaties, but stand out
+from the rest of the nation and spend their time mostly in plundering
+other tribes as well as travelers. They frequently go as far as the
+Cherokee nation to rob and plunder. All the Pawnee nation are noted for
+their love of plundering travelers of their horses and mules, but not
+often anything else.</p>
+
+<p>On the east and west of the village is a beautiful level bench of
+prairie extending many miles, and to the ridge of bluffs which run
+east and west touching within a mile of the village. On the top of the
+bluffs can be seen a number of Indian graves. To the northwest about
+a mile distant, and at the foot of the bluffs is an extensive corn
+field, the stalks still standing. On the south is a beautiful view of
+the nice level prairie extending to the main branch of the Platte, the
+timber on the banks can be faintly, but plainly seen. The Loup Fork
+is probably about 400 yards wide at this place and very shoal, except
+a narrow channel near the shore on this side which is probably three
+feet deep. The bottom is mostly quicksand and not safe fording. About
+half the surface from bank to bank is sand bars which appear above the
+surface of the water mostly on the south side. There are several small
+islands and a little timber to the right or west. The village occupies
+a space of about 40 acres of land, and is mostly enclosed by a ditch
+about five feet wide, and a bank inside the ditch about four feet high,
+running from the bank of the river around the village till it again
+strikes the bank, and when perfect, has formed a good fortification. A
+number of lodges are built outside the ditch on the east and on account
+of want of room inside when the bands from the other village joined
+them. The village is composed of about 200 houses or lodges varying
+in size but all similarly constructed, as appears from the remnants
+of some left standing. While I take this sketch, I sit in the one
+left unharmed, which it is said was owned by the chief Siscatup, and
+as the lodges are all constructed in the same manner, only differing
+in size, I will endeavor to describe the way in which this is built.
+In the first place, the earth is dug out a little, slanting to the
+depth of about 18 inches in the form of a perfect circle about 44 feet
+in diameter. This forms the floor of the dwelling. Then there are 17
+crotch posts let into the floor in a direction slanting outward so that
+the top of the crotch is about perpendicular with the outside of the
+circle, the foot being set about 18 or 20 inches from the base of the
+circle. These posts are arranged at about equal distances from each
+other around the circle. In the crotches, poles are laid across from
+crotch to crotch, and are sufficiently high for the tallest man to
+stand upright under them. At the distance of 18 or 20 inches from the
+outside of the circle are many smaller poles let into the surface of
+the ground, on an average of about a foot apart and leaning inward so
+that the top of the poles rest on the cross pieces which are supported
+by the crotches. The space between the foot of these poles and the edge
+of the circle forms a bench for seats entirely around the house, and
+there is room sufficient for more than a hundred men to seat themselves
+on it very comfortably. On the outside of these last mentioned poles
+are laid a number of still smaller poles horizontally from bottom to
+top from about 9 inches to a foot apart, these are lashed fast to
+the upright poles by strings made of bark. On the outside of these
+is laid a thick layer of long prairie grass and occasionally lashed
+through to the upright poles also. The whole is then covered with
+earth about two feet in thickness at the bottom and gradually thinner
+towards the top. This forms an enclosure when completed around the
+whole area about seven feet high, a place being left sufficiently large
+for the door. The next process is to place erect ten upright poles or
+crotches, very stout, being about a foot in diameter about seven feet
+nearer the center of the circle than the first crotches. These are set
+perpendicular, deep in the ground and also arranged at about equal
+distances from each other, and form a strong foundation which is the
+design and use to which they are appropriated. On the top of these
+pillars are also horizontal poles laid strong and firm, the top of the
+pillars being about eleven or twelve feet above the floor. Long small
+poles are then laid from the outside horizontal poles over the inner
+ones and sufficiently long to meet at the top within about two feet
+of each other, forming a hole for the smoke from the fire to ascend
+through. These long poles are laid pretty close together all around
+the building, and across them smaller ones are lashed with bark as in
+the first instance, only they are much closer together. The operation
+of lashing on a layer of long grass and finally covering the whole
+with earth, completes the roof of the building. The door or entrance
+is a long porch formed by placing in the earth four upright posts or
+crotches far enough apart to extend outwards from the circle, about 18
+or 20 feet. There are four upright crotches on each side the porch and
+in the crotches, poles are laid horizontally as in the other parts of
+the building. The process of lashing sticks across, then a thick coat
+of long grass and lastly a stout coat of earth, is the same as the
+other parts of the building. The roof of the porch is flat and is about
+seven feet high and six feet wide. The porch is dug down about half
+as deep as the main building, making a short step at the mouth of the
+porch and another one at the entrance into the house. The fire has been
+made in the center of the house directly under the hole in the roof.</p>
+
+<p>At the farther side of the building, exactly opposite the porch, is
+a projection of sod left about a foot from the outside of the circle
+which is said to have been the seat of the chief, and over which hung
+his medicine bag and other implements.</p>
+
+<p>The crotches are arranged so that there is a free passage to the center
+of the hall from the porch one standing on each side at the entrance
+about six feet apart and the others appear to be arranged from them.
+The smaller houses have not so many pillars as this one. Some have
+eight in the center and sixteen outside the circle. Others have four
+in the center and ten outside. The entrances are also smaller in
+proportion, but all are constructed on the same principle. It looks a
+little singular to note that nearly all the entrances to these lodges
+front to the southeast, except in one or two instances where they front
+in other directions for lack of room. It is probable that this is done
+to avoid the effects of the severe cold northwest winds so prevalent in
+winter.</p>
+
+<p>Adjacent to each lodge is a stable or pen, which has been designed for
+keeping horses in. These are mostly left unharmed. They are constructed
+by placing poles upright in the ground from two to three inches in
+diameter as close together as possible and about ten feet high. About
+five or six feet above the ground cross poles are laid horizontally,
+and each of the upright poles are firmly lashed to the cross poles by
+strips of bark, so as to make them firm and secure them from being
+moved out of their place. The stables are mostly built square, with
+a door left on one side sufficiently large to admit a horse. There
+are some circular stables but not so many as the square ones. The
+horses appear to have been penned in by placing loose poles across the
+doorway, for there is no other sign of a door visible.</p>
+
+<p>Around each lodge there are also several cachets where corn and other
+necessities are deposited. The cachets are large holes dug in the
+ground, or rather under the ground, the entrance being only just large
+enough to admit a common sized man. They are made pretty much after the
+shape of a large demijon. The cachets are generally about six feet high
+inside and about fifteen feet in diameter; there is a gradual slope
+from the mouth to the extreme corner and a little bowing, which forms
+the roof. The surface of the earth above, at the mouth, is about two
+and a half or three feet deep. Some of these are said to be capable of
+holding a hundred bushels of corn, and when filled there is a thick
+coat of grass laid on the top and the mouth then filled up nicely with
+earth, and when finished a stranger would not have the least suspicion
+that there was a storehouse full of corn under his feet.</p>
+
+<p>I finished taking the foregoing sketch soon after noon, and then had
+intended to go on the bluffs and examine the Indian graves, but it
+being very warm, and perceiving the teams crossing the river very
+rapidly, I returned, and found most of the teams over. They commenced
+crossing about eight o'clock, some unloaded their goods on the bank
+which were carried in the boat to the sand bar, the teams going down to
+the ferry to cross. After a few wagons had gone over, it was perceived
+that they went over with less difficulty, and by doubling teams they
+soon took over the loaded wagons without much difficulty. I prepared
+to wade over the river, inasmuch as the wagon I am with was gone over,
+and in fact, all Heber's wagons were over except one, but Jackson
+Redding brought me Porter Rockwell's horse to ride over, and I mounted
+and proceeded. I found the current strong indeed, and about as much as
+a horse could do to ford it without a load. I soon got over safe and
+wet only my feet. At 3:00 p.m. the last wagon was over on the solid
+sand bar, and about four o'clock all the wagons and teams were safely
+landed on the bank on the south side of the Loop Fork without any loss
+or accident, which made the brethren feel thankful indeed. A little
+before four, the wagons started on to find a better place to camp and
+feed for our teams, where we can stay comfortable until Monday and give
+the teams a chance to rest, for they as well as the men are very tired
+by wading against the strong current on the quick sand. The bottom
+land on this side is more sandy than on the other side, but the grass
+appears higher but not so thick on the ground. The bluffs on the other
+side look beautiful from here, and the Indian graves show very plain.
+We went on about three miles and camped beside a small lake near the
+river. I traveled this on foot. Soon as we arrived Porter Rockwell
+discovered that there were many sun fish in the lake. I took a couple
+of hooks and lines, handed some to him, and went to fishing myself
+with the others and we had some fine sport. I caught a nice mess which
+Brother Egan cooked for supper, and although they were small they made
+a good dish. Many of the brethren caught a good mess each. Brother
+Higbee came down with the seine and made two hauls but caught none on
+account of the grass in the bottom of the lake. We have good reasons
+to suspect that we are watched by the Indians as their footsteps have
+been seen on the bluffs south, apparently very fresh, but the guard are
+faithful and we have no fear. The cannon was prepared again so as to be
+ready in case there should be an attack. Evening I walked over to Orson
+Pratt's wagon, and through his telescope saw Jupiter's four moons very
+distinctly never having seen them before. I went over to my wagon and
+looked through my glass and could see them with it, but not so distinct
+as with Orson's. The evening was very fine and pleasant. About ten
+o'clock retired to rest in good health and spirits, thankful for the
+mercies of the day that is past.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, April 25</h3>
+
+<p>Arose soon after five, shaved and changed some of my clothing. The
+morning very pleasant, wind west. Our course for the last seven miles
+has been about southwest. We are about 14 miles from the main branch
+of the Platte river and it is said that if we travel on this fork one
+hundred miles farther, we shall then be not over thirty miles from the
+main branch. This morning saw four antelope on the other bank of the
+river about a mile and a half northwest. Afternoon Elijah Newman was
+baptized by Tarlton Lewis in the lake for the benefit of his health.
+Brother Newman has been afflicted with the black scurvy in his legs and
+has not been able to walk without sticks, but after being baptized and
+hands laid on him he returned to his wagon without any kind of help
+seemingly much better. Soon after 5:00 p.m. a meeting was called at the
+wagon of President Young, and remarks made by several, and instructions
+by President Young chiefly in reference to the guard and the folly
+of conforming to gentile military customs on an expedition of this
+nature. After dark the twelve and some others met together opposite
+the President's wagon to select men to go a hunting buffalo, etc., as
+we proceed on the journey. It was ascertained that there are eight
+horses in the company which are not attached to teams. Then eight men
+were selected to ride on horseback, viz., Thomas Woolsey, Thomas Brown,
+John Brown, O. P. Rockwell, John S. Higbee, Joseph Mathews. Then
+there were selected eleven men to hunt also on foot, viz., John Pack,
+Phineas H. Young, Tarlton Lewis, Joseph Hancock, Edmund Ellsworth,
+Roswell Stevens, Edson Whipple, Barnabas L. Adams, Benjamin F. Stewart,
+Jackson Redding and Eric Glines. It was also voted that the twelve have
+the privilege of hunting when they have a mind to. After some remarks
+and cautions in regard to chasing the wild buffalo, the company was
+dismissed, and I retired to rest soon after nine o'clock, the evening
+being very fine and pleasant.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, April 26</h3>
+
+<p>This morning about 3:30 an alarm was sounded. I immediately got out of
+the wagon and learned that three of the guard who were stationed to the
+northeast of the camp had discovered some Indians crawling up towards
+the wagons. They first received alarm from the motions of one of our
+horses, and noticing this they went towards the spot and listening,
+heard something rustle in the grass; they first suspected they were
+wolves and fired at them. Only one gun went off and six Indians sprang
+up and ran from within a few rods of where they stood, another gun was
+then fired at them and the camp alarmed. A strong guard was placed all
+around, and a charge of cannister put in the cannon. The day was just
+breaking when this took place and the moon had just gone down. The
+air being extremely cold and fires put out, I retired into the wagon
+till morning and arose again at half past five. After daylight, the
+footsteps of the Indians could be plainly seen where they had come down
+under the bank and sometimes stepped into the water. No doubt their
+object was to steal horses, and they had a fair privilege if the guard
+had been found asleep, for the camp was only formed in a half circle
+and some horses were tied outside. However, the prompt reception they
+met with will have a tendency to show them that we keep a good watch
+and may deter them from making another attempt. Orders were given for
+the tens to assemble for prayers this morning, instead of two in each
+wagon, which was done. President Young told me this morning that as
+soon as my health will permit, he wants me to assist Brother Bullock in
+keeping minutes, etc., as Brother Bullock is hard run, having to take
+care of a team and attend to other chores.</p>
+
+<p>The camp started out about 8:00 a.m. I started at 7:30 on foot and
+traveled four miles, then waited for the wagons. There is no road here,
+consequently, President Young, Kimball, G. A. Smith, A. Lyman and
+others went ahead on horseback to point out the road. The horse teams
+traveled first to break the strong grass so that it will not hurt the
+oxen's feet. The hunters started out in different directions keeping
+only a few miles from the wagons. We traveled about seven miles and
+then stopped at 11:30 beside a few little holes of water to rest and
+feed teams, etc. From this place which is somewhat elevated, can be
+seen the remains of an old village or Indian fort, over the river about
+northwest from here. The country looks beautiful, somewhat rolling and
+bounded by uneven bluffs. The land looks poor and sandy. The sun is
+very hot and not much wind. I find it has a great tendency to make sore
+lips, parched up and feverish. At 1:45 all the wagons were on the way
+again. We traveled about seven miles. We crossed two slough or soft
+places though not very bad. They are the first since we left Winter
+Quarters. The roads are more uneven than on the other side the river.
+We had to make a new road all day. At 6:15 the encampment was formed on
+the east banks of a small creek with a very gravelly bottom. The wagons
+are formed in a deep hollow and so low that they cannot be seen at a
+quarter of a mile distance. There is no fresh grass here, neither has
+the old grass been burnt off. We have crossed a number of trails today
+which some say are buffalo trails. They all run towards the river, and
+in some places there are 8 or 9, others, not more than two, and so on,
+together running about a half a yard apart. The hunters have seen no
+buffalo. Woolsey killed a goose. There is no timber here, only a few
+small willows. We are about a half a mile from the river, and there
+doesn't seem to be much timber on the river. Our course today has been
+about southwest. About a mile back from this place situated on a high
+bench of land on the banks of the river is the remains of an Indian
+village, the houses or lodges being all down and no appearance of
+timber left. The entrances to these lodges all face to the southeast,
+the same as those back at the other village. There has evidently been a
+garden around the village as the land has been broken and bears marks
+of cultivation. This morning Brother Benson discovered that one of the
+iron axles of his wagon was broken, and he moved the load so that there
+was no weight on the part which was broken, and traveled with it all
+day. This evening the wagon was unloaded, the axle taken off, Brother
+Tanner's forge set up, and the axle welded and fixed ready to put to
+the wagon again. This was done in the short space of one hour after the
+encampment was formed. The welding was performed by Brother Burr Fost.
+About eight o'clock Joseph Mathews came into camp from seeking his
+horses and stated that an Indian had rode a horse off a little before
+and he supposed it was Brother Little's horse, which was missing. Dr.
+Richards' mare was also missing. Brother Mathews stated that he went
+out to seek for his black man who was out watching his teams, and as
+he arrived he saw Brother Little's horse as he supposed going towards
+the river. He ran towards it to turn it back to camp, but as soon as he
+commenced running the horse sprang to a gallop, which made him suppose
+there was an Indian on him although he could not see the Indian. As
+soon as he gave the alarm five or six of the brethren mounted their
+horses, and pursued on the course pointed out to the river, but could
+neither see nor hear a horse or Indian. When they returned, President
+Young and Kimball and a number of others went out on horseback and
+searched till near eleven o'clock, but likewise proved unsuccessful.
+The brethren have been repeatedly warned not to let their horses go far
+from their wagons, but every time we stop they can be seen around for
+more than two miles. These are two good horses and the owners feel bad
+enough, but it will be a warning to others to be more careful.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, April 27</h3>
+
+<p>Arose soon after five. The morning fine and pleasant. During the night
+the guard fired twice but they supposed they were wolves they fired
+at. I went back to the old Indian village before breakfast, and also
+with O. P. Rockwell, to see if any tracks of the lost horses could
+be found. He followed one track some way into a bunch of willows, but
+having no arms we returned. At 7:45 the wagons commenced moving and
+traveled till 2:15 being about twelve miles nearly a south course, the
+design being to go to the main branch of the Platte. President Young,
+Kimball and others went forward again to point out the road. O. P.
+Rockwell and some others started back to hunt the horses about the time
+we started. The land today has been very rolling and uneven. It is also
+very sandy and dry. After traveling about four miles through dead grass
+we found a large space where the grass had been burned off. Here it is
+quite green, and there are quantities of buffalo dung, which proves
+that we are not far distant from some of them. The hunters have been
+out again but have not discovered any. There are a great many lizards
+on these sand ridges, but they are of a small size. President Young and
+Kimball discovered a dog town a piece back, and many little prairie
+dogs. In one hole was a very large rattlesnake, and around the holes
+many small owls which seem to correspond with what travelers have said
+previously, that the prairie dog, rattlesnakes, and owls all live in
+the same hole together. The sun is very hot but there is a nice west
+wind although it is dry and parches our lips. When we stopped at noon
+the brethren dug several holes and obtained a little water, as there is
+none here above the surface. They could not obtain any for the cattle
+and horses. At 3:15 the teams commenced to move again. Just as they
+started, John Brown, Roswell Stevens and Brother Woodruff all shot
+at an antelope. They all hit him and killed him. Having skinned it,
+they put it into one of the wagons. The afternoon was very hot and the
+roads very dusty. After traveling about two miles some of the ox teams
+gave out and had to stop and feed. The rest went on till they found
+a small branch of water and the grass being very good we stopped for
+the night at half past five, having traveled about four miles, course
+about south. President Young and several others went back with mules
+and horses to assist the teams up which are behind. Luke Johnson shot
+a very large rattlesnake and brought it to camp for the oil. Roswell
+Stevens killed a hare, the nearest like the English hare of any I have
+seen in this country. Soon after we arrived here it began to lightning
+and thunder and we had a light shower with a very strong wind. There is
+an appearance of more rain which is very much needed indeed. At 6:30
+O. P. Rockwell, Joseph Mathews, John Eldridge and Thomas Brown
+returned from hunting the two lost horses. They reported that they
+went back to within about two miles of where we encamped on Sunday and
+looking off towards the river they saw something move in the grass at
+the foot of a high mole. They proceeded towards it thinking it was a
+wolf, when within about twelve or fourteen rods Porter stopped to shoot
+at the supposed wolf. The moment he elevated his rifle, fifteen Indians
+sprang to their feet, all naked except the breech cloth, and armed
+with rifles and bows and arrows. Each man having a rifle slung on his
+back, and his bow strung tight in his hand and about twenty arrows.
+The Indians advanced towards them but the brethren motioned and told
+them to stop and held their rifles and pistols ready to meet them. When
+the Indians saw this they began to holler "bacco! bacco!" The brethren
+told them they had not tobacco. One of the Indians came close beside
+J. Mathew's horse to shake hands with Mathews but kept his eye on the
+horse's bridle. When nearly within reach of the bridle, Brown cocked
+his pistol and pointed at the Indian shouting if he did not leave he
+would kill him. At which, the Indian seeing the pistol ready to fire,
+retreated. The Indians made signs to get the brethren lower down the
+river, but the brethren turned their horses to come to camp, thinking
+it unsafe to go near to the timber where they expected more Indians
+lay in ambush. When the brethren turned to come back the Indians fired
+six shots at them with their rifles and the brethren immediately faced
+about at which the Indians fled towards the timber below. The brethren
+did not shoot at the Indians, even when the Indians shot at them. They
+saw the tracks of the horses which are missing and returned satisfied
+that Pawnees have got them, and no doubt intended to get the horses on
+which the brethren rode, but they met with too stern a reception to
+risk an attempt. Some of these same Indians were amongst those who came
+into camp when we stopped for dinner near their village, and proves
+that they eyed the horses pretty close, and also proves that they have
+followed us close ever since. The brethren ran great risks indeed, but
+got back safe to camp without harm.</p>
+
+<p>About the same time the brethren returned, a gun accidentally went
+off and broke the nigh fore leg of Brother Mathew's horse. Those who
+saw the accident state that when the rain came on, some of the men
+put their guns in John Brown's wagon, loaded and with the caps on.
+Brother Brown threw his coat on the guns, and soon after went to get
+his coat and plucking it up, some part of the coat caught the cock
+of the gun and raised it so that when the coat slipped off, the gun
+went off, and the ball struck the horse's leg on the back side about
+half way between the knee and upper joint. The bone was broke entirely
+off. There were several men and horses close by the wagon at the time.
+The wagon was set on fire, but soon put out with little damage. This
+makes four of the best horses lost within the last four days, but the
+last circumstance is by far the most painful, and breaks up Brother
+Markham's team. Brother Brown made Heber a present of a little antelope
+meat. About dark the wind moved to the north and blew strong a little
+while and we had a little more rain.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, April 28</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine and pleasant, no Indians. The wind blew strong from
+the northeast which makes it much cooler. There are many wolves and
+antelope around here, but no buffalo have been seen as yet. Orders were
+given this morning for no man to leave the wagons except the hunters.
+The brethren had to make a road down to the small creek near which
+we camped. This occupied till about nine o'clock, when the wagons
+commenced crossing; the last wagon crossed at ten o'clock and then the
+camp proceeded on, President Young, Kimball, and several others going
+before to point out the road while the wagons were crossing the creek.
+Brother Luke Johnson shot the horse dead which had his leg broke last
+night. The horse belonged to Brother Barney, but was in Markham's team
+and was a good one, but they concluded it was better to shoot her than
+leave her alone to the mercy of the Indians. Our course for the first
+seven miles was a little east of south over a very level prairie and
+green with grass. The largest wild onions grow here I have ever seen.
+After traveling about seven miles we turned southwest, being within
+a mile of the main Platte and opposite to Grand Island. We traveled
+till 2:30 and then stopped to feed, having come about eleven miles
+today. The roads are extremely dusty and the strong wind blows it into
+the wagons and everything is covered. We are now near to timber and a
+good chance for grass for the cattle. At 4:00 p.m. we moved again and
+traveled till six, having traveled about four miles, and during the
+day, about fifteen miles. We have camped about a quarter of a mile from
+the timber and there is plenty of grass to fill the stock tonight. The
+water is also clear and cool and good tasting. The evening is cloudy
+and very cool, which affects my head some. Suppered on some antelope
+and went to bed early.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, April 29</h3>
+
+<p>The wagons started at five o'clock this morning before breakfast, to
+find more grass as this is all eaten off. We traveled till 6:30 being
+about three miles, and then turned out the teams to feed. The morning
+very cool. There seems to be very little rain in this country and no
+dew. Breakfasted on goose and mouldy bread. At twenty minutes after
+eight, the teams started again and after traveling about two miles
+came to a very pretty stream of good water, (Wood River) about ten
+feet wide on an average, but at the fording place about a rod wide. We
+were detained some here, but all got over safely. We then traveled on
+a table or prairie gently ascending for four or five miles but very
+even and good traveling. At 1:00 p.m. we stopped beside a small lake to
+rest and feed teams, having traveled about ten miles today. The wind
+south and strong. One of Orson Pratt's horses is very sick, supposed
+to be the bots. He has lain down several times in the harness within
+the last three hours. I am not astonished, as the wagons and everything
+else is shrinking up, for the wind is perfectly dry and parching;
+there is no moisture in it. Even my writing desk is splitting with the
+drought. At 2:30 p.m. we started again and traveled till about 6:30
+over tolerable level prairie, distance about eight miles, and nearly a
+southwest course. The wind was strong from southwest till sundown and
+then turned to northeast. The clouds of dust were almost sufficient to
+suffocate everyone. I rode Heber's horse this afternoon and went before
+the wagons. Saw many antelope, and the brethren had a good chance to
+kill one, but they missed it, although three of them shot at it. We
+camped at night close to Grand Island where there is an abundance of
+rushes for cattle. There is also a white substance that seems to ooze
+out of the ground around here, and tastes like salt, but not so strong
+as common salt. Brother Orson Pratt's horse is better and the day has
+passed without accident.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, April 30</h3>
+
+<p>Arose at half past five. Morning cool and pleasant. The teams have
+filled themselves with rushes. Started at 7:40 and soon after the camp
+started, I started ahead on foot and have traveled about five miles.
+The prairie level and green with grass. We travel on the first bench
+about three quarters of a mile north of the timber on Grand Island.
+There are many wild geese on the prairie, also buffalo dung, but
+none very recent. There are immense patches of blue grass which from
+appearances, the buffalo are fond of. There are also numerous patches
+of buffalo grass which is very short, thick on the ground, and curly
+like the hair on a buffalo's hide, and much resembling it, except in
+color. About a mile from where we camped last night, we passed a place
+where the Indians have camped no doubt during their hunt. They must
+have been very numerous for their camp has covered a number of acres of
+ground. President Young, Kimball and Lyman are gone ahead on horseback
+to look out the road. We have thus far followed the Indian trail, but
+it is now so grown over and so old it is scarce discernible. The wind
+blows strong from the north and the dust is very bad. The atmosphere is
+dull and cloudy. Our course today has been about west. At a quarter to
+twelve we stopped to feed beside a small creek of clear, good, water,
+having traveled about eight miles. The grass along this creek is long
+and plentiful. We are about a half a mile from Grand Island.</p>
+
+<p>Having the privilege of copying from Brother Bullock's journal, I will
+now record the names of the standing guard as organized April 16th,
+also the men selected by Brother Tanner to form the gun division as
+ordered Saturday, April 17th.</p>
+
+<p>Tarlton Lewis, Stephen H. Goddard, Seeley Owens, Thomas Woolsey, John
+G. Luce, Horace Thorton, Charles D. Barnam, Sylvester H. Earl, George
+Scholes, Rufus Allen, William Empey, John Holman, George R. Grant,
+William P. Vance, James Craig, Datus Ensign, William Dykes, John Dixon,
+Samuel H. Marble, Artemus Johnson, Norton Jacobs, Addison Everett,
+William Wordsworth, John W. Norton, Francis M. Pomroy, Lyman Curtis,
+Horace M. Frink, Erastus Snow, Hans C. Hanson, William C. A.
+Smoot, Barnabas L. Adams, Rodney Badger, Charles Burk, Alexander
+P. Chesley, Appleton M. Harmon, David Powell, Joseph Mathews, John
+Wheeler, Gillrid Summe, Mathew Ivory, Edson Whipple, Conrad Klineman,
+Joseph Rooker, Nathaniel Fairbanks, Ozro Eastman, Andrew S. Gibbons,
+William A. King, Thomas Tanner, Hosea Cushing, and John H. Tippets.</p>
+
+<p>The names of the gun detachment are as follows:</p>
+
+<p>Thomas Tanner, Captain; Stephen H. Goddard, Seeley Owens, Thomas
+Woolsey, John G. Luce, Horace Thornton, Charles D. Barnam, Sylvester H.
+Earl, George Scholes and Rufus Allen.</p>
+
+<p>At twenty minutes after ten o'clock started again, the wind blowing
+from the north tremendously strong, and clouds of dust arose from under
+the wagon wheels. It has turned very cold and gloomy. We traveled
+again over a level prairie some distance from the river and turned off
+to camp under the bench soon after 5:00 p.m. having traveled about
+eight miles, our course a little southwest. The wagons were formed in
+an imperfect circle in such a manner as to have all the wagon mouths
+from the wind, which took near an hour to form the encampment. We are
+about a mile from water and a mile and a half from timber, with very
+little grass for our teams. It is now so cold that every man wants his
+overcoat on and a buffalo robe over it. We have had no accident and the
+brethren feel well, some are wrestling to keep themselves warm. Some
+have had the good luck to bring a little wood with them but it seems
+as if many will have a cold supper. And some perhaps little or nothing
+as they have no bread cooked. Eight p.m., the camp have found a good
+substitute for wood in the dried buffalo dung which lies on the ground
+here in great plenty, and makes a good fire when properly managed.
+Brother Kimball invented a new way of building a fire to cook on and
+which is well adapted to the use of this kind of fuel. He dug a hole
+in the ground about 8 inches deep, 15 inches long and 8 inches wide.
+Then at each end of this hole he dug another about the same dimensions
+as the first leaving about 3 inches of earth standing between the
+middle and two end holes. At the end of these partitions he made a
+hole through about 3 inches in diameter to serve as a draught. In the
+bottom of the middle hole the fire and fuel was placed, and across the
+top two wagon hammers to set the pots and pans on, so that the fire
+could have free circulation underneath. By this method much cooking
+was done with very little fuel. To save the trouble of carrying water
+so far a well was dug in a short time about 4 feet deep and good water
+obtained. After supper I went and gathered some dried buffalo dung
+(politely called buffalo chips) to cook with in the morning. Brother
+Hanson played some on his violin and some of the brethren danced to
+warm themselves. I went to bed early to get warm but having only one
+quilt for covering, I suffered much with cold. Brother Kimball rode
+ahead again on horseback and suffered some from cold.</p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-11>May 1847</h2>
+
+<h3>Saturday, May 1</h3>
+
+<p>The morning very cold indeed. Inasmuch as there is little grass for the
+cattle, the camp started out at 5:40 and traveled till a quarter after
+eight, six miles before breakfast. Soon after we started this morning
+three buffalo were seen grazing on the bluff about six miles distance.
+I could see them very plain with my glass. O. P. Rockwell, Thomas
+Brown and Luke Johnson started on horseback to try to kill some. Soon
+after they went, another herd of buffalo were seen to the northwest at
+the foot of the bluffs about eight miles off. I counted with my glass,
+72, and Orson Pratt counted 74. Three of the brethren went on their
+horses after the latter herd. I watched the movement with the glass
+and saw that sometime before the brethren got to them, the buffalo
+fled and were soon after out of sight. We stopped for breakfast close
+to Grand Island and at 10:15 proceeded again. After traveling four
+miles we arrived at a small lake on our right at twelve o'clock which
+evidently connects with the river in high water. A little previous to
+this time the hunters returned and reported that Luke Johnson shot at
+one and dropped him on his knees, but he got up again and ran after the
+herd. They did not get any, but saw more farther west and went to give
+chase to the latter herd. When they got near them, they turned down
+under the bluffs and joined the herd chased by the last hunting party.
+Luke lost his cap and could not find it again. Brother Higbee said he
+could have shot one, but Woolsey told him to hold on and pick out a
+good one. They being pretty near, selected a cow and designed both to
+shoot at her, but while they were making their plans the herd started
+and they missed their chance. About the time the hunters returned,
+another still larger herd was discovered still farther west, also at
+the foot of the bluffs. The President stopped near the above mentioned
+lake and selected eleven men to go and give chase to the last seen
+herd and he gave them their instructions. Although they were at least
+eight miles from us, I distinctly counted 101 with my glass and amongst
+them many calves. This being the first day buffalo has been seen on
+our journey and in fact the first ever seen by any except about five
+or six of the brethren, it excited considerable interest and pleasure
+in the breasts of the brethren, and as may be guessed, the teams moved
+slowly and frequently stopped to watch their movement. When the hunters
+were within a mile or two from the herd, two of the dogs gave chase
+to an antelope, which made directly towards the buffalo. One of the
+dogs chased it till it went into the midst of the herd and when the
+buffalo saw the dog, they commenced to canter into a closer huddle.
+The dog, however, evidently frightened with their savage appearance,
+stopped and retraced his steps. About this time Elder Kimball seemed to
+get inspired with the idea of chasing the buffalo and he immediately
+called for Egan's fifteen shooter and started with it on full gallop.
+After the dog returned the buffalo did not move much from the place
+and the hunters moved gently along till they got pretty near them, at
+which time Heber joined, just as the herd discovered them and commenced
+galloping off. The brethren's feelings who were left with the wagons
+were now strung up to the highest pitch, a feeling of exciting interest
+appeared to prevail throughout the camp, they having heard and read
+so much of the mad ferocity of the buffalo when hotly pursued, and
+knowing that all the hunters were inexperienced in regard to hunting
+the wild buffalo. While they felt for the safety of the hunters, they
+still desired to see as much of the chase as the distance would allow,
+and were wishful that the chase might be successful as a number have
+no meat and a piece of fresh meat would taste good to all men and save
+our bread stuff, and the desire to taste the much famed buffalo meat
+created a longing desire to see some of the herd fall. Soon as the herd
+commenced galloping off, the hunters followed in pursuit at full gallop
+and soon closed in with them. At this time I got my glass and rested
+it on Brother Aaron Farr's shoulder, determined to see as much of the
+chase as possible. I soon discovered O. P. Rockwell ride into
+the midst of the herd which then appeared to number over 200, others
+having come in sight when the herd commenced to run. Porter was soon
+enveloped in the cloud of dust caused by the heavy tramp of the buffalo
+on the dry sandy ground, but in a very short time the herd began to
+separate and scatter in every direction, a small party coming down
+the bluff again and some running west under the bluffs, others going
+over. The hunters closed in on the first party and commenced their
+fire, especially at one cow which they finally succeeded in separating
+from all the rest, and determined to keep to her until they killed
+her, except Porter, who as soon as he had wounded her, left her with
+the hunters and pursued some of the rest. The cow was now in close
+quarters and after she had been shot through two or three times, Elder
+Kimball rode close to her with his fifteen shooter and fired over his
+horse's head, she dropped helpless and was soon dispatched. At the
+report of the gun which was very heavy loaded, Elder Kimball's horse
+sprang and flew down the bluff like lightning and he having let go the
+lines to shoot, her sudden motion overbalanced him and his situation
+was precarious to the extreme. The other hunters saw his situation and
+trembled for his safety but could render him no assistance. However,
+being a good horseman, he maintained his position in the saddle and
+soon succeeded in gaining the lines and by a vigorous effort succeeded
+after some time in reining in his horse and returned to the rest
+unharmed and without accident. All this movement passed about as quick
+as thought, and as soon as they saw the cow dead and all right they
+again followed in pursuit of the remaining buffalo. About this time
+three of the herd separated from the rest and came in a direction
+towards the camp on a gallop. President Young seeing this, ordered a
+halt, and the wagons to get close together lest the buffalo should,
+in their fury and excitement, venture to go between the wagons and do
+much mischief. However, they were discovered by some of the hunters
+nearer the camp and some foot men who gave chase to them changed their
+course when within about a mile from the camp. At this time I had a
+very good view of their shape, color and appearance when running which
+I shall endeavor to describe hereafter. Elder Kimball arrived in time
+to aid in the chase of these three which lasted some time. The hunters
+made choice of a large and very furious bull, and worked with him
+some time, shooting him through several times but all this did not
+seem to impede his progress. O. P. Rockwell said he had heard it
+said that a buffalo could not be hurt with a ball shot at his head.
+Having a fair chance with this one, he determined to satisfy himself,
+and (previous to his being wounded) gaining a little in advance came
+right in front within about a rod of him and discharged his rifle
+pistol which struck the center of his head, but with no other effect
+than to make it smoke a little, some dust fly and the raving animal
+shake savagely. The brethren, John S. Higbee and John Pack, soon after
+succeeded in dropping him and laid him dead at their feet, John Pack
+being the one that dropped him. During all this, other scenes were
+passing of equal interest. One of the calves was discovered within a
+few rods of the wagons, a shot fired at it and it was soon caught by
+the dogs, killed and put into a feed box. Porter chased another calf
+to within a mile of the camp previous to his chasing the bull. Some
+of the footmen surrounded and dispatched it, and soon after brought
+and put it in one of the wagons. Other brethren were still away at the
+bluffs, but we had no certainty of their success until Elder Kimball,
+John Pack, and several others came up to the camp after dispatching
+the bull and reported two other cows killed and three calves. This
+was a little before 5:00 p.m. When it was ascertained for a certainty
+that one was killed, the revenue cutter was unloaded and sent to fetch
+it to camp. It was reported that two other cows and three calves were
+killed. When Elder Kimball and others came up to the camp, President
+Young requested some of the brethren to unload their wagons and go and
+fetch the others reported to be killed, while the wagons would strike
+towards the river and camp for the night. The chase lasted from soon
+after 1:00 until 4:00 p.m. Soon four wagons were unloaded, the brethren
+having their loads on the ground in care of a guard, and were ready
+to start out. Having a great desire to see a buffalo in his natural
+state, my feet being very sore, and the distance to the bluffs being
+over three miles, I got into Brother Aaron Farr's wagon, he being one
+who unloaded to fetch in the meat, and we started for the one shot down
+by Elder Kimball, he and O. P. Rockwell following on horseback.
+On our route, we met Luke Johnson and two other hunters returning.
+Luke had a calf tied on his horse, himself on foot. When we arrived at
+the cow, we found that three of the brethren had come on foot and had
+already got the hide off, except the head. She was soon cut in two, put
+in the wagon with the rest of the meat, hide and head, and we started
+for the next cow which was about three quarters of a mile distant. This
+cow would probably weigh on foot, about 700 pounds. She was not very
+fat, but the meat looked nice and clean. When we arrived at the next
+cow, we found several of the brethren at work with her, they had got
+her hide off and soon had her in the wagon. We then proceeded to camp
+and got in soon after sundown. The meat was unloaded in the semi-circle
+opposite the President's wagon and placed on the hide which was spread
+on the ground for the purpose of keeping it clean. The brethren's
+faces beamed with joy to see the meat begin to come into camp, and
+with some astonishment to view the size and ferocious appearance of
+the head, which still had the hide on. Soon after the other wagons
+came in and each deposited its load in the same place. Joseph Mathews
+came in about the same time and reported that he had killed another
+calf after chasing it three miles, making the total number killed in
+the first day's buffalo hunt by the Camp of the Latter-day Saints,
+already reported as follows: one bull, three cows and six calves, a
+circumstance far exceeding our expectations and best hopes, and all
+without the slightest accident or loss to man or property, except Luke
+Johnson's cap and a ramrod to a rifle. There is, however, one shade
+of suspense caused by the intelligence that Joseph Hancock has not
+returned to camp. He started out on foot when the three buffalo were
+first discovered this morning and has not been seen or heard of for
+sometime. Considerable fear is entertained for his safety from the fact
+that he is lame, and it is evident, or at least considered so, that
+there are Indians near because a large smoke as of prairie burning has
+been seen all the afternoon within some six or eight miles to the west
+and must have been set on fire by somebody and the probability is, it
+is Indians, although none has been seen for several days. The meat was
+cut up into quarters and distributed one quarter to each company of
+ten, leaving some to be distributed in the morning, and in a short time
+every fire was loaded with it, and the camp had a good feast on the
+fruits of today's labors.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after the hunters started out at noon we came to a long range
+of dog towns and saw many of the little prairie dogs playing around
+their holes. The extent of this dog town is yet unknown, for we have
+traveled over, and parallel with it about five miles this afternoon,
+and they seem to extend still farther west. In some places the town
+is nearly two miles broad, in others not so much, and must contain
+thousands of the little dogs. I could not get near enough to see their
+form distinctly, for they are so quick into their holes when anything
+approaches, you can only have a partial view of them. They appear to be
+about as long as a common grey squirrel but more chunky, a larger body
+and chubbed head. The tail is short, more resembling that of a dog,
+their color light brown. Their bark resembles the chirp of an English
+throstle, and something like the chirp of a squirrel. They appear to
+live on grass as it is all eaten off close to the ground throughout
+the extent of their dog town, and the ground looks naked and barren
+as a desert. Several of the brethren shot at the dogs but failed in
+killing any. We had a north wind this afternoon and cold weather, our
+course being nearly west over a level prairie, not far distant from the
+island. Since noon we traveled about eight miles, and the encampment
+was formed at half past six o'clock near a small lake about a mile
+above the head of Grand Island. The grass is not so good here as it
+has been back, and but a poor chance for the cattle, etc., to fill
+themselves.</p>
+
+<p>The appearance of the wild buffalo at a distance is somewhat singular.
+The color of the back and about half way down the sides is a light
+brown, the rest is a very dark brown. The shoulder appears slightly
+rounding and humped. When running, the large shaggy head hangs low
+down, about half way in height between the ground and the top of
+the shoulder. They canter like any ox or cow, but appear far more
+cumbersome and heavy, especially about the fore parts, which look
+larger than they really are on account of the long, thick matty hair.
+They run tolerably fast, but a good horse will easily gain on them.
+They will run a long time without diminishing their speed. Their meat
+is very sweet and tender as veal.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, May 2</h3>
+
+<p>This morning is fine but cold. Ice about half an inch thick. Sometime
+in the night a buffalo and calf came within a short distance of the
+wagons. The guard discovered them and shot at the calf, wounding it
+in the hind leg. They caught it alive and tied it up near the wagons
+but concluded finally to kill and dress it. About six o'clock we
+were gladdened to see Joseph Hancock come into camp with a piece of
+buffalo meat. He reported that he killed a buffalo yesterday back on
+the bluffs, and there being no one with him he concluded to stay by it
+over night. He made a fire and scattered a little powder around his
+buffalo to keep off the wolves. Some visited him during the night, but
+were awed by the fire. After he had told his story and taken breakfast,
+Brother Hancock started in company with four or five other brethren to
+fetch in the meat on horseback, as no wagons could get over the bluffs
+to it. They found that the wolves had devoured much of it, but the
+balance they brought along with them. They also killed two antelope and
+brought them into camp. The total number of buffalo now caught is five
+large ones and seven calves. Edmund Ellsworth killed one of the prairie
+dogs, and brought it to camp. It looks much like a squirrel, only the
+body is thicker and the tail short and no bush on it. The day grew
+pleasant till about noon, when it became cloudy and cold. President
+Young, Kimball and others started out to look out a camp ground where
+better feed can be obtained for our stock. They returned a little after
+two and gave orders to go on a few miles. There have been a number of
+buffalo seen in different directions, one grazing within three quarters
+of a mile from camp, but orders were not to hunt or shoot today. At
+three-fifteen the camp started and traveled two miles over dog towns
+as yesterday. At a little after four p.m. we camped beside a long lake
+of shoal, clear water near the banks of the Platte. This lake is about
+three rods wide and connects with the river. The Platte appears about
+two miles wide at this place but very shoal and muddy. There is no
+timber but plenty of grass, mostly last year's growth. The weather is
+more temperate and the wind ceased. President Young, Kimball and others
+went on to look out a crossing place over this lake, etc. On their way,
+they fell in with a buffalo cow and calf and chased them some to get
+a view of them but not to kill. On their return they said we should
+tarry here tomorrow and have some blacksmith work done and probably
+hunt some. Half of the hide off the bull's face was brought into camp.
+On examination I found the mark where Porter shot at his head. The ball
+made a small hole, barely cutting through the outer surface or grain
+of the hide which was near an inch thick. The hair near the top of the
+head is about a foot long.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, May 3</h3>
+
+<p>This morning cold and ice in the water pails. The hunters are going
+out on foot. Tanner and Davenport are fixing their forges to do some
+repairing, shoeing, etc. At about nine the hunters, twenty in number,
+started out with two wagons which had been unloaded for the purpose.
+At the same time, fifteen of the brethren on horseback started west
+to examine the route, etc. At two-thirty the party who went to look
+out the route returned and reported that Brother Empey had discovered
+a large war party of Indians while he was chasing an antelope. The
+Indians are in a hollow about twelve miles distance and about three
+hundred in number, some on their horses and some standing beside them
+holding the bridle. The company also saw nearly twenty scattered
+Indians about four miles from here. When this report was made, orders
+were given to dispatch a number of the brethren on horses, well armed
+to warn the hunters and tell them to come to camp. In about half an
+hour, twenty-three men started out on this mission. Before they reached
+the bluffs which are about four miles from here, some of the hunters
+were on their way to camp, having seen only one buffalo during the day.
+In a little time all the hunters were notified and were on their way
+back. They arrived about six o'clock, having got three antelope, and
+the horsemen who went after them got two calves which were all brought
+in and the day passed without accident. Some of the brethren saw some
+objects at a distance, which, by their motions they were satisfied were
+Indians. The day has been fine but cool and cloudy, with occasionally
+a few drops of rain. A number of wagon tires have been set and other
+blacksmithing, washing, drying meat, etc., done. The wind near south.
+The cannon was unlimbered at night and prepared for action in case it
+should be needed.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, May 4</h3>
+
+<p>The morning fine but cool, wind about southwest. Two horses ran east as
+much as six or eight miles and were pursued by the brethren and brought
+back. William Smoot was thrown from a horse and his senses knocked out
+of him by the fall. He soon recovered and appears to have sustained no
+injury.</p>
+
+<p>At seven-thirty the camp was called and received instructions from
+President Young, especially in regard to leaving the wagons and
+scattering off hunting without counsel. He strongly urged the brethren
+not to do it any more and said if they did, some of them would be
+caught by the Indians and if not killed would be severely abused. The
+instructions and regulations given April 17th were read and enjoined
+upon the camp to be observed more strictly. It was decided that the
+cannon wagon should be unloaded, the box put on another wagon so
+that the cannon can be always ready for action. An addition of ten
+volunteers was made to the standing guard and ordered that all horses
+and mules should be tied inside the circle at night, and the cattle
+and cows outside within a few rods of the wagons. A guard to be placed
+around the cattle when turned out to graze. It is thought best to
+travel with the wagons four abreast and the cannon to go in the rear.</p>
+
+<p>At nine o'clock the wagons commenced moving and passed over the lake
+near its junction with the river, at which place it is about ten or
+twelve feet wide.</p>
+
+<p>After traveling about a half a mile the camp stopped some time, waiting
+for some wagons behind. While stopping, three wagons were discovered on
+the opposite bank of the river, considered to be traders going back to
+Council Bluffs. The river is about two miles wide and no person here
+acquainted with it, consequently no one attempted to go over, which
+many desired. About eleven o'clock we proceeded, five wagons abreast
+so as to be better prepared for defense should the Indians attack us.
+After traveling about two miles, one of the men from the wagons on the
+other side the river overtook us and we halted to see him. He said
+there are only nine of them. They have been to Fort Laramie for furs
+and are going to Council Bluffs. This is the sixteenth day since they
+left the fort with ox teams. He says the road is good on the other
+side and the river easily forded, being not more than knee deep in
+the deepest place and a good bottom. He cheerfully agreed to carry
+letters back for us but could not wait long. I wrote one to my family
+and in about half an hour a pretty large mail was made up to send back
+to Winter Quarters, and may the Lord grant that it may arrive safely.
+Brother Johnson bought a buffalo robe of the man for about a pound and
+a half of coffee, and another brother bought one for a pound of sugar
+and a little pork. I feel my mind relieved by this unexpected privilege
+of writing back to my dear family and hope they will have the pleasure
+of perusing the contents.</p>
+
+<p>At twenty minutes after one the bugle sounded for a march, and the
+messenger is returning with the letters and a bag of provisions on his
+shoulder which the brethren have given him for carrying the letters.
+We traveled about four miles farther and at three-thirty, stopped to
+let the teams feed on a small spot where the fire has not touched, the
+rest having all been burned off within a few days. We have traveled
+today only about six miles, having stopped much. The country is still
+very level and nice traveling only for the dust. The wind south and our
+course nearly west. When the trader went back over the river, Thomas
+Woolsey, John Brown and John Pack accompanied him on horses to speak
+with a person whom Brother Woolsey is acquainted with. They returned
+soon after we stopped to feed and say that the river is very good to
+cross, not being more than two feet deep in the deepest place, and the
+bottom good. The horses broke through but very little. The traders
+say furthermore, that if we continue on this side, we shall have to
+cross the river twice where the water is much deeper and cannot be
+crossed only in a ferry. There is a good traveled road also, which
+would be an advantage we have not got on this side. During the time we
+stopped to feed, a guard was placed around the cattle and horses to
+keep them from straying far from the wagons. Then men were called out
+and drilled with their loaded guns in the circle formed by the wagons.
+Some objects are seen grazing about four miles west of us thought to be
+buffalo. Thirteen in number. Some of the hunters are going out to give
+them a chase, and try to kill some of them. At a quarter after five
+o'clock, the camp was called together and Brother Brown reported what
+the traders said about the route, etc., as above. The subject was then
+talked over and when it was considered that we are making a road for
+thousands of saints to follow, and they cannot ford the river when the
+snow melts from the mountains, it was unanimously voted to keep on this
+side as far as Fort Laramie at least. Soon after this we started on
+again. Saw a lone buffalo but a short distance from us but it galloped
+across the river. Saw also a number of antelope and some deer. About
+seven o'clock we passed a spot where the Indians have camped and must
+have been many of them. A while after sundown we arrived at a creek of
+good water and camped for the night, having traveled about nine miles
+today. The prairie level but all the grass burned off, except in small
+patches. We have camped on a small spot which has escaped the fire.
+Elder Kimball, who was one of the hunters who started out at four
+o'clock, said the objects seen from camp were antelope, but he had seen
+a herd of buffalo about a mile ahead of where we now are. He named this
+creek, Buffalo creek.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, May 5</h3>
+
+<p>The morning fine and very pleasant. Saw two small herds of buffalo a
+few miles from camp. At seven-thirty continued our journey. I went
+on foot about two miles and then stopped to count the horses, mules,
+oxen, etc., and afterwards walked on again to the first wagons. Here
+Elder Kimball offered me his horse to ride. I then went ahead with the
+horsemen. We soon after came to a very bad slough and had to bear off
+to the north to find a place to cross it. The prairie after we crossed
+this slough about a mile wide from the river was very soft and it was
+necessary to bear still farther to the north. The horses' feet cut
+through the sod and the ground appeared wet under, although there has
+been no rain for some time. At eleven-thirty we stopped to feed on a
+small patch of unburnt grass, having come about nine miles, course
+about west, with a very strong south wind. There were two buffalo
+within about a half a mile from camp, grazing. Some of the brethren
+went to view them, but the orders of the day are not to kill anything
+which the men cannot carry to camp. There are no appearances of Indians
+near except the prairie which is still burning ahead of us, supposed
+to be set on fire by them. About one p.m. continued our journey and
+traveled till three p.m., when some of the hunters came in, bringing a
+live buffalo calf, also one they had killed. They reported that John
+Brown, Jackson Redding and John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson had each killed
+a calf, the one killed by Brother Higbee having previously been shot by
+Amasa Lyman. Joseph Mathews killed a cow and Elder Kimball, O. P.
+Rockwell and John S. Higbee chased the one brought in alive until a dog
+seized it and Porter left his horse and caught it without shooting at
+it and led it to camp. The revenue cutter was unloaded and sent after
+the cow and calf left, they being about three miles off. We traveled on
+about a half an hour and found the prairie all in a blaze. President
+Young and Kimball thinking it unsafe to risk the wagons near the fire,
+ordered the camp to go back a half a mile to an island where we can
+have water for our teams and be secure from the fire. The prairie is
+all burned bare and the black ashes fly bad, making the brethren look
+more like Indians than white folks. There is some feed on the island,
+and the cattle easily ford the stream to it. The calf is tied in the
+circle. When a dog goes near it, it will attack the largest and they
+flee from it, though not more than six or eight weeks old. About half
+past six the revenue cutter arrived with the meat, which was fatter
+than any we have had. They also brought in another calf which they
+killed while out for the cow, making a total of one cow and six calves
+brought into camp today. The meat was divided amongst the companies of
+ten, each having either a calf or half a quarter of a cow.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, May 6</h3>
+
+<p>This morning at five-fifteen, President Young called to the camp and
+proposed to go on to where we can find feed for the teams. The brethren
+assented and he gave orders to start as quickly as possible. However,
+some must feed their teams a little corn, some milk their cows, etc.,
+and it took till near six-thirty to get started. During the night the
+Lord sent a light shower of rain which has put the fire out except in
+one or two places and made it perfectly safe traveling. We have had a
+strong southeast wind through the night but the morning is calm and
+pleasant. We traveled about two miles and stopped on the unburned grass
+to feed at a quarter to seven. Several antelope were surrounded by
+the brethren and some shot at them, killing one. The rest made their
+escape. We can see several large herds of buffalo within about two
+miles of the camp and many calves amongst them. President Young and
+Kimball rode ahead to find a place to stop for feed. The ground is
+hard and good traveling. At a quarter to nine, proceeded on, President
+Young and Kimball going ahead to point out the road. Our course about
+northwest, the wind strong from west. We traveled near the river. Saw
+thirteen elk together, also many antelope and numerous herds of buffalo
+on both sides of the river. Jackson Redding shot an antelope which Luke
+Johnson chased near the wagons.</p>
+
+<p>A young buffalo calf followed Luke to camp, but the President advised
+him to leave it as it is only a few days old. We stopped near the river
+at a quarter to twelve, having traveled about six miles. We find a
+little more grass here, but the numerous herds of buffalo keep it eaten
+off close to the ground nearly all the way we have traveled today. The
+President gave orders that no more game should be killed until further
+orders. It appears we have got as much meat in camp as can be taken
+care of. While we were stopping for noon, some of the cows moved off
+towards a large buffalo herd, and when President Young and Kimball
+started ahead after dinner they discovered the cows near the buffalo.
+Brother Woolsey went to turn them back, but he had to run his mule
+some distance before he could prevent the cows from mingling with the
+buffalo. They brought the cows back to the wagons and then proceeded
+ahead again. One part of the horsemen's business today has been to
+drive the buffalo out of our track, judging it unsafe to risk them
+between the wagons and the river. The camp proceeded on at one-thirty
+and in about two miles distance found a lake of clear water. Here we
+discovered the horsemen coming back, and found that the President had
+lost his large spy glass, while chasing the cows from the buffalo herd,
+a second time. He did not find it. We traveled slowly this afternoon,
+some of the horses and oxen having given out in consequence of lack
+of feed to sustain them. We traveled till six-thirty and camped near
+some islands in the river, having traveled about seven miles this
+afternoon and fifteen through the day, our course a little west of
+northwest. Wind about west. Some think we have traveled eighteen, some
+twenty and some even twenty-five miles today, but from the number of
+times we stopped and the slowness with which the teams moved, I feel
+satisfied that fifteen miles is plenty. About three quarters of a mile
+back we saw a buffalo cow which appears to be sick. She fought the dogs
+some time and then lay down, and the brethren went close to her, some
+venturing to feel and handle her. I was within six or eight feet of her
+and had a good view, as much as I wanted. She has lost all her hair
+and looks very poor and weak. The President ordered that the brethren
+leave her and not disturb her and she was left lying down, but it is
+doubtful the wolves will kill and eat her before morning. When the
+brethren went back to hunt the spy glass they found that the wolves
+had killed the calf and nearly eaten it up. What they had not eaten,
+they carried off with them. We have never been out of sight of herds of
+buffalo today, and from where we are camped, I am satisfied we can see
+over five thousand with the glass. The largest herd we have yet seen is
+still ahead of us. The prairie looks black with them, both on this and
+the other side of the river. Some think we have passed fifty, and some
+even a hundred thousand during the day, or have seen them. It is truly
+a sight wonderful to behold, and can scarcely be credited by those who
+have not actually seen them.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, May 7</h3>
+
+<p>This morning the wind northwest and almost as cold as winter. The
+buffalo vastly numerous all around. About eight a.m. the camp was
+called together and measures taken to raise more teams to put to the
+canyon as some of the horses and even cattle have given out. The
+President chastised Elder Snow for not attending to the cows yesterday
+causing the President to lose his spy glass, it being Brother Snow's
+turn to drive the cows according to his own voluntary agreement. At a
+little before eleven o'clock, Porter Rockwell, Thomas Brown and Joseph
+Mathews started back to hunt the spy glass, and soon after they left,
+the camp proceeded onward. The day was cloudy and very cold. Our course
+about northwest. We traveled about seven miles and camped at two-thirty
+near several small islands, on the banks of the river. About four p.m.,
+Porter and the others returned, having found the spy glass, which was
+a source of joy to all the brethren. At six-thirty the companies were
+called out to drill. I have been very sick all day with a complaint and
+have suffered much.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, May 8</h3>
+
+<p>Morning cold but fine. Started out at nine o'clock and traveled till
+one p.m., distance seven and a half miles, course a little west
+of northwest. The prairie on both sides of the river is literally
+black with buffalo, and to try to say as to what number we have seen
+this morning would be folly. I should imagine that at a moderate
+calculation, we have seen over fifty thousand. They are more tame than
+they have been, and will stand till the wagons come within two hundred
+yards of them. Porter has shot one about two years old, the meat looks
+nice. There is no difficulty in getting meat enough. It is with some
+difficulty that the horsemen can drive them away from the track as
+fast as the wagons come up. It is very warm today, and no wind. I have
+counted the revolutions of a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance
+we have traveled. The reason why I have taken this method which is
+somewhat tedious, is because there is generally a difference of two and
+sometimes four miles in a day's travel between my estimation and that
+of some others, and they have all thought I underrated it. This morning
+I determined to take pains to know for a certainty how far we travel
+today. Accordingly I measured the circumference of the nigh hind wheel
+of one of Brother Kimball's wagons being the one I sleep in, in charge
+of Philo Johnson. I found the wheel 14 feet 8 inches in circumference,
+not varying one eighth of an inch. I then calculated how many
+revolutions it would require for one mile and found it precisely 360
+not varying one fraction which somewhat astonished me. I have counted
+the whole revolutions during the day's travel and I find it to be a
+little over eleven and a quarter miles, twenty revolutions over. The
+overplus I shall add to the next day's travel. According to my previous
+calculations we were two hundred eighty-five miles from Winter Quarters
+this morning before we started. After traveling ten miles I placed a
+small cedar post in the ground with these words written on it with
+a pencil. "From Winter Quarters, two hundred ninety-five miles, May
+8, '47. Camp all well. Wm. Clayton." Some have past the day's travel
+at thirteen and some fourteen miles, which serves to convince more
+strongly that the distances are overrated. I have repeatedly suggested
+a plan of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance
+we travel in a day, and many begin to be sanguine for carrying it into
+effect, and I hope it will be done. Our course this afternoon has been
+northwest, no wind and the prairie as bare as a poor English pasture,
+the grass being eaten off by uncountable herds of buffalo. No pen nor
+tongue can give an idea of the multitude now in sight continually, and
+it appears difficult to keep them away from the wagons. Two calves
+have been killed and brought to camp and multitudes would be killed
+if the President did not prohibit the brethren from killing them only
+as we need the meat. Truly, the Lord's cattle upon the thousand hills
+are numerous. We are now camped on the banks of the river within a
+quarter of a mile from where the range of bluffs, which have appeared
+exceedingly ragged all day, strike the river, and when we move again we
+have got to cross over them. President Young and Kimball have been back
+on the bluffs on foot some distance and report that as far as they can
+see the grass is eaten perfectly bare and the prospect for feed for our
+teams is poor indeed. There are several buffalo lying dead around here,
+whether dead from old age or by the hands of hunters or of starvation,
+it is unknown. Many of the brethren have to cook their victuals on dry
+buffalo dung, there being no wood near.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, May 9</h3>
+
+<p>The morning very cold with wind southeast. At seven-fifty we proceeded
+on three and a half miles, going a little around some of the bluffs
+until we turned down on a low bottom and very sandy. We have camped
+near some islands and can get wood and water, but poor feed for the
+teams. We arrived here at nine-fifty and shall stay till morning.
+Soon as the camp was formed, I went about three quarters of a mile
+below to the river and washed my socks, towel and handkerchief as well
+as I could in cold water without soap. I then stripped my clothing
+off and washed from head to foot, which has made me feel much more
+comfortable for I was covered with dust. After washing and putting on
+clean clothing I sat down on the banks of the river and gave way to a
+long train of solemn reflections respecting many things, especially in
+regard to my family and their welfare for time and eternity. I shall
+not write my thoughts here, inasmuch as I expect this journal will have
+to pass through other hands besides my own or that of my family but if
+I can carry my plans into operation, they will be written in a manner
+that my family will each get their portion, whether before my death or
+after, it matters not.</p>
+
+<p>The day is very warm and the wind has moved to the west. According to
+my calculations, we are now 300 miles from Winter Quarters, lacking a
+few rods. I got a small board and wrote on it: "From Winter Quarters
+three hundred miles, May 9, 1847. Pioneer Camp all well. Distance
+according to the reckoning of Wm. Clayton." This was nailed on a post
+and in the evening I went and set it up about three hundred yards from
+here on a bend of the river. Spent the afternoon reading and writing
+in Elder Kimball's journal. At three p.m. a meeting was called and the
+camp addressed by several. President Young took tea with Elder Kimball,
+and afterwards they started out together with one or two others to
+look at the country ahead of us. They went a few miles and found a
+small stream which we shall have to cross. Here they saw multitudes of
+buffalo coming to water. Porter and Phineas Young went within six or
+eight rods of them to try to get one, but in the whole herd, they could
+not find one fit to kill. They are very poor, for there is no feed for
+them, and in fact they are so numerous that they eat the grass as fast
+as it springs. There are, however, some good cottonwood groves and
+good water at the stream. After sundown the wind blew strong from the
+northwest and the evening was cold and chilly.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, May 10</h3>
+
+<p>The morning fine but cool. The wind nearly ceased. Last night I
+dreamed that I was in company with the camp which was stopping beside
+a considerable river of deep water. Our horses and cattle were tied
+to stakes all around the camp to the distance of a quarter of a mile,
+some good timber thinly scattered around. I thought President Young,
+Kimball and several others started up the river in a flat boat without
+stating their object, leaving the brethren to guard the camp, cattle,
+etc. in their absence. When they had been gone sometime I thought a
+large herd of buffalo came on full gallop right amongst our horses and
+cattle, causing them to break their ropes and fly in every direction.
+The brethren seemed thunderstruck and did not know what to do. Seeing a
+small skiff in the river, I sprang into it, and a paddle lying in it,
+I commenced rowing in pursuit of the President. It seemed as though I
+literally flew through the water passing everything on the way like a
+railway carriage. In a few minutes I overtook the brethren in the flat
+boat, took the skiff and threw it on shore and to my astonishment I
+saw that the skiff was made only of barks and cracked all over, and
+it seemed impossible to put it in the water without sinking it. The
+paddle with which I had rowed proved to be a very large feather and I
+had another feather in my left hand with which I steered the skiff.
+When I got into the flat boat, I made known what had passed in the
+camp, but the brethren seemed no ways alarmed. I awoke and behold, it
+was all a dream. Dr. Richards is going to deposit a letter in a stick
+of wood prepared for the purpose near this place in such a manner that
+the next company will discover it. He fixed it on a long pole and being
+assisted by President Young and others raised it and fixed it firm in
+the ground. His distance from Winter Quarters three hundred and sixteen
+miles. At nine five the camp proceeded onward. After traveling two
+miles we crossed a small creek which Elder Kimball named Skunk creek,
+easily forded, though the ground was soft on the west side. About this
+time the brethren at the head of the camp discovered a strange horse
+alone on the prairie. Porter and Thomas Brown gave chase to try to
+catch it. Brother John Brown states that when the Mississippi company
+passed on the other side last season, one of the brethren lost a mare
+and two colts, and this is supposed to be the oldest of the two. When
+Brother Woolsey and Tippets came through from the battalion last winter
+they saw the same horse near here. We traveled till twelve five and
+finding a little better feed stopped for dinner having traveled a few
+rods over six miles. The last two miles was over very soft prairie and
+although the last year's grass has not been burned, the wheels cut
+through the sod frequently. At the creek four miles back, some of the
+brethren shot a buffalo which was brought into camp in the revenue
+cutter. The meat is said to be good and the fattest we have had. At
+two we continued our journey. About the same time Porter and Brown
+returned having failed to catch the horse. After traveling about half
+a mile we crossed a very bad slough, and beyond that for a mile the
+ground was wet and soft. The teams began to give out, and at half past
+four o'clock, the President ordered the wagons to strike for the timber
+which was a little out of our course, but necessary to favor the teams
+and obtain wood and water. We arrived near the timber and camped at
+four fifty, having traveled since my last guide post a little over
+nine and three-fourths miles, the last two miles the ground being dry
+and good traveling. Some of the hunters killed a deer and we had some
+venison for supper. Our course a little north of west. Light wind from
+northwest. The day warm and pleasant. We have a little better feed for
+cattle, and on the island plenty of brouse for horses, better timber
+than we have had for some time past. It appears plain that vast herds
+of buffalo have wintered here, but have mostly left and gone eastward
+sometime ago, and we have the full growth of this year's grass which
+is small indeed. The grass evidently springs later the farther west we
+travel, and nature seems to have taught the wild cattle this lesson,
+hence their eastward progress. There are some scattering herds of
+buffalo around, but not nearly so numerous as they were some thirty
+miles back. The face of the country here is indeed beautiful, the soil
+rich on the bottoms, the ragged bluffs on each side of the river have
+a splendid appearance, and at about ten miles distance, west of where
+we now are, they seem to circle around until they form a junction. It
+appears evident also, that we are above the junction of the north and
+south forks of the Platte, the north fork running nearly northwest and
+the south fork southwest. Brother Woolsey says these are the forks
+in reality, but are connected some miles higher up by a slough, and
+consequently the land between is set down by travelers as the main land
+rather than as an island.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, May 11</h3>
+
+<p>The morning cold. Wind east; camp well. At 7:00 a.m. went with a number
+of the brethren who were going to dig some wolves out of a hole about a
+quarter of a mile from camp. They dug out four and brought them alive
+to camp. They are probably six or eight weeks old and about the size
+of an English hare, very vicious. At half past nine the camp moved
+onward over a very nice level, dry prairie for five miles. Amongst the
+timber on the island could be seen many small cedar trees. At the end
+of five miles, we had to pass over a small ridge of low, sandy bluffs,
+which extended to the river. After passing nearly over the bluffs we
+stopped half an hour to water the teams and eat a little dinner, then
+proceeded on three miles farther and passed over a creek of clear
+water, but this could not be very good in consequence of so many dead
+buffalo lying in it. We proceeded on half a mile, and finding tolerably
+good feed, stopped for the night, having traveled eight and half miles
+today. Weather fine, wind south and southeast; course a little west
+or northwest. We have seen few buffalo today, but there are signs
+of thousands having wintered in the neighborhood. The country looks
+beautiful, soil rich, only lacking timber. After the camp was formed,
+it being half a mile to water, the brethren dug two wells, and about
+four feet deep found plenty of good water. One of the wells is reported
+to run a pail full a minute. Brother Appleton Harmon is working at the
+machinery for the wagon to tell the distance we travel and expects
+to have it in operation tomorrow, which will save me the trouble of
+counting, as I have done, during the last four days. Took supper on
+some duck presented to Elder Kimball by George Billings.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, May 12</h3>
+
+<p>Morning cool, weather fine. Brother Appleton Harmon has completed the
+machinery on the wagon so far that I shall only have to count the
+number of miles, instead of the revolution of the wagon wheel. We
+started at 9:10, the first mile pretty soft, the rest tolerably hard
+and very good traveling. We have passed over vast beds of salt, or
+rather dust with a salt taste. It looks something like dirty flour.
+Traveled eight miles in four hours and two minutes, and stopped at
+12:48 to feed, nearly opposite two small islands. The feed tolerably
+good. Our course northwest. Considerable strong wind from southeast
+covering everything in the wagons with dust and sand. No timber on the
+bank of the river and but little on the islands. The hunters report
+that they have seen many dead buffalo between here and the bluff with
+the hides off and tongues taken out, a strong proof that Indians have
+been here very recently, as the flesh looks fresh and lately killed.
+The range of bluffs on each side the river extend much farther apart,
+and near the foot of the south range can be seen timber scattering
+along, which is an evidence that the south fork ranges in that
+direction, although some are sanguine that we have not yet arrived at
+the junction.</p>
+
+<p>At half past three we moved on again and traveled four miles, camped
+at a quarter to six near a bunch of small islands, and a kind of bayou
+projecting from the river. Our course this afternoon a little south of
+west, having come around a considerable bend in the river. The land
+good and good traveling. Wind southeast. Several of the brethren caught
+a number of small fish in the bayou or lake. The feed here is rather
+scanty. Heavy clouds are rising in the west and northwest, and a fair
+prospect for some rain which is much needed. It is now certain that we
+are about fourteen and a half miles above the junction of the north and
+south forks of the Platte, and although we have to make a new road all
+the way, we find no obstacles so far. Brother Woodruff reports that he
+has been beyond the bluffs north of the camp and saw upwards of 200
+wickeups where the Indians have camped very recently.</p>
+
+<p>He found a cured buffalo skin and some pieces of other skins also. The
+hunters killed a two year old buffalo and brought it to camp. Brother
+Orson Pratt reports that when we were five and a half miles back, we
+were in latitude 41° 9' 44".</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, May 13</h3>
+
+<p>This morning cold and cloudy, cold enough for overcoats and buffalo
+robes. The buffalo which was killed yesterday was cut up and divided
+this morning amongst the companies of tens. Some feelings are manifest
+this morning between Brothers Thomas Tanner and Aaron Farr on account
+of the former taking the latter prisoner and putting him under a
+guard part of the night. Perhaps Aaron was a little out of order in
+conversing loud after the horn blew for prayers, but I think Brother
+Tanner's angry spirit more blameable. At 9:00 we moved onward nearly
+a west course four miles and at 11:00 stopped to feed teams at a spot
+which is a little better than we generally have. The wind strong from
+north and northeast.</p>
+
+<p>At half past twelve we proceeded on again and traveled till four
+o'clock, distance six and three quarters miles. At this distance we
+arrived at a stream about six rods wide which appears to come from
+the northeast, the water in appearance like the Platte, the bottom of
+the river quick sand. Water in the middle about two feet deep; at the
+sides quite shoal. It appears that travelers have never discovered this
+stream for it is not noticed in any works that we have seen. We crossed
+it without difficulty and camped on its banks. The weather cloudy and
+very cold, with a strong north wind. Presidents Young and Kimball rode
+ahead as usual to look out the road. They report that the bluffs half a
+mile west come clear to the river and are considerably high. They found
+several ranges of them and finally found a valley running between some
+of the ranges through which we can pass by going about a mile around
+from our course. This stream according to measurement, twenty-five and
+one quarter miles above the junction of the two forks and 341 miles
+from Winter Quarters, by estimation. President Young named it the North
+Bluff Fork. A while before we arrived here four of the brethren went to
+chase a few buffalo which were lying down at the foot of the bluffs,
+but they did not get any. Presidents Young and Kimball saw a very large
+rattlesnake near the river. Brother Kimball says the largest he ever
+saw in his life. I saw a small green snake today, very pretty, the back
+light green and the belly a pale yellow. Presidents Young and Kimball
+suffered severely with cold while riding over the bluffs to look for a
+road. Had to use buffalo dung for cooking, there being no timber.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, May 14</h3>
+
+<p>The morning cloudy and very cold. In the west could occasionally be
+seen streaks of lightning and distant thunder heard. At 8:00 a.m. the
+dark clouds having approached nearer, it commenced raining pretty
+hard, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The President ordered the
+horses got up just before the rain commenced; and after the storm
+ceased, we started onward at a quarter past ten. After traveling about
+a mile we passed among and around the high bluffs, our course lying
+nearly in a north direction for some time, then turning south and
+on again approaching the river, nearly southeast. When within about
+three quarters of a mile from the river, we stopped to feed at twenty
+minutes to two, having traveled six and a quarter miles. We have got
+on the level bottom again and are probably not more than three miles
+in a direct line from where we started this morning. Presidents Young
+and Kimball went forward to point out the route, which is very good to
+travel, although considerably uneven. Brother Higbee killed an antelope
+and wounded another which made its escape while he was loading his
+rifle. We have better feed here than we have had for some time. We had
+a little more rain just as we came to a halt. We have not had much wind
+this morning but it is now increasing from the north. It is somewhat
+warmer than this morning. The atmosphere cloudy and looks as if we
+might have more rain. The land between the two forks for about 25 miles
+is perfectly flat and very level without timber.</p>
+
+<p>The bluffs there rise suddenly, apparently in a line from fork to
+fork. There are many buffalo back in the valleys between the bluffs,
+and although there is no sign of the prairie having been burned, it
+is evident the buffalo have kept it eaten clean off, but have moved
+back and east, probably since the Indians have been hunting them. Some
+of the brethren have discovered fresh tracks where the Indians have
+gone up this north stream, evidently very lately. But we are satisfied
+the Lord hears the prayers of his servants and sends them out of the
+way before we come up to them. At three o'clock we proceeded on our
+journey, keeping above the lower prairie, which appeared soft and
+swampy. Our road was very uneven. We went two and a half miles and
+at half past four stopped to learn the report of those gone ahead to
+look out the road. There is another high range of bluffs about half
+a mile west of us, extending to the river. Elder Kimball went across
+the several ranges of bluffs to the west side, and hunted for a road
+in various directions, but there did not appear to be any possibility
+of finding a road between the bluffs, without going many miles around.
+President Young and he concluded it would be best to camp where the
+wagons are and in the morning cross right over the bluffs by doubling
+teams. Accordingly the encampment was formed about five-thirty, the
+train having traveled eight and three quarters miles today. Our course
+this afternoon nearly west, wind southeast. The feed for our teams
+grows much better, and on one of these high sandy bluffs I saw a large
+bed of flowers, not unlike the violet, and very rich. The sand on the
+bluffs in some places looks like large drifts of snow, and in other
+places seems to have deep chasms as if wasted by heavy rains. The
+atmosphere is still cloudy but not so cold as it has been. The hunters
+have killed two buffalo, three antelope and one badger during the day,
+which will be very acceptable. It was dark when the hunters returned to
+give the information. The revenue cutter was sent after the meat which
+was reported to be a mile and a half distant. It was late when they
+returned. There was an alarm made by the guard in the night supposing
+the Indians were near. The camp were aroused to secure their horses,
+but we had no further trouble about them.</p>
+
+<p>I discovered that Brother Appleton Harmon is trying to have it
+understood that he invented the machinery to tell the distance we
+travel, which makes me think less of him than I formerly did. He is not
+the inventor of it by a long way, but he has made the machinery, after
+being told how to do it. What little souls work.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, May 15</h3>
+
+<p>This morning is very cloudy and very cold, more like a January morning
+than a May morning. The wind blows strong from the northeast. The
+brethren who killed the buffalo did not bring it to camp last night,
+but put it in the boat and left it till morning. About half past seven
+they brought it in and divided it to the captains of ten. At eight
+o'clock it commenced raining again but abated a little before nine. At
+nine o'clock we commenced moving and after traveling three-quarters of
+a mile began to ascend the sandy bluffs. It commenced raining again and
+it looks like rain for all day. It is very cold, the wind continues
+strong. The road was much of a zig zag over the bluffs, but only about
+a mile before we descended to the bottom. We traveled a piece farther
+and at half past ten o'clock it was considered best to turn out the
+teams until it ceases raining, after traveling two and a quarter miles.
+We found it unnecessary to double teams while crossing the bluffs and
+we got over without difficulty, much better than we had anticipated.
+About noon it again ceased raining and the signal was given to harness
+up teams. At half past twelve we proceeded and traveled till a quarter
+to three, distance four and a half miles, then formed the encampment
+in a circle about a quarter of a mile from the river. The road has
+been level but soft and wet, however not bad traveling. The bluffs are
+about half a mile to the north and several herds of buffalo grazing on
+them. Some of the hunters are gone to try and get some meat. The wind
+still keeps up, and is cold, damp and uncomfortable. The feed appears
+better here than we have had for some days, and the cattle soon fill
+themselves which is a comfort and blessing to the camp. Some of the
+brethren have been lucky enough to pick up a few sticks and dead wood
+but our chief dependence for fuel is dry buffalo dung which abounds
+everywhere, but the rain has injured it some for burning. About two
+miles back we passed a place where the Indians have lately camped
+during their hunt. It is plain that whole families are amongst their
+number as the foot prints and moccasins of children have several times
+been seen. They evidently make use of the buffalo dung for fuel, and
+for seats, they dig up sods and lay them in a circle around their
+fire which is in the center. We have passed a number of these little
+temporary camping spots this afternoon. The reason why we did not
+travel farther was that Elder Kimball being gone ahead to look out the
+road, etc., he found as he came near the next bluffs that the feed is
+all eaten off by the numerous herds of buffalo and found also, that we
+shall have to travel over the bluffs and they appear wide and would be
+impossible for the teams to get over them tonight, hence the necessity
+of stopping here where we have good feed. The soil on this prairie
+looks good and rich but there is no timber. In fact there is none in
+sight, except a small grove on the other side the river about two miles
+west of the camp. Late at night Porter Rockwell came in and reported
+that he killed a buffalo. The cutter was sent for it to bring it to
+camp. Our course this afternoon nearly west.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, May 16</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine, but chilly and cold. Wind north. Eric Glines killed an
+antelope near the camp which was cut up and distributed. Soon after
+breakfast, President Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff and Benson went on
+horseback to look out the best road over the bluffs. They returned at
+half past twelve and reported that we can pass through a valley between
+and around the bluffs, which will be about four miles across them.
+About 5:00 p.m. several buffalo were seen making their way from the
+bluffs towards our horses, some of which were very near them. Brother
+Eric Glines started out with the intention of driving the buffalo away,
+and bringing the horses nearer camp. When he got near, the buffalo did
+not seem much disposed to move and he shot at one of them and wounded
+him. He moved a little farther and Brother Glines followed him and shot
+three times more at him. The buffalo then ran about forty rods, fell,
+and soon expired. I went to look at him. He is a large one, judged to
+weigh about 700 pounds, and in pretty good order. I left the brethren
+skinning him and returned to camp where a meeting had been called at
+5:00 p.m., and the brethren addressed by Elders Richards, Markham,
+Rockwood and Kimball, chiefly on the subject of obeying counsel, and
+Elder Kimball remarked in regard to hunting on the Sabbath. He would
+not do it even in case of necessity, but he did not feel disposed to
+find fault with the brethren. The laws and regulations for the camp of
+April 18th were then read by Brother Bullock and the meeting dismissed.
+About noon today Brother Appleton Harmon completed the machinery on
+the wagon called a "roadometer" by adding a wheel to revolve once in
+ten miles, showing each mile and also each quarter mile we travel, and
+then casing the whole over so as to secure it from the weather. We are
+now prepared to tell accurately, the distance we travel from day to
+day which will supersede the idea of guessing, and be a satisfaction
+not only to this camp, but to all who hereafter travel this way. I
+have prepared another board to put up here on which the distance from
+Winter Quarters is marked at 356¾ miles. I have also written on it that
+the last seventy miles are measured, and we shall continue to measure
+and put up guide posts as often as circumstances will permit through
+the journey. The whole machinery consists of a shaft about 18 inches
+long placed on gudgeons, one in the axle tree of the wagon, near which
+are six arms placed at equal distances around it, and in which a cog
+works which is fastened on the hub of the wagon wheel, turning the
+shaft once round at every six revolutions of the wagon wheel. The upper
+gudgeon plays in a piece of wood nailed to the wagon box, and near this
+gudgeon on the shaft a screw is cut. The shaft lays at an angle of
+about forty-five degrees. In this screw, a wheel of sixty cogs works on
+an axle fixed in the side of the wagon, and which makes one revolution
+each mile. In the shaft on which this wheel runs, four cogs are cut
+on the fore part which plays in another wheel of forty cogs which
+shows the miles and quarters to ten miles. The whole is cased over and
+occupies a space of about 18 inches long, 15 inches high and 3 inches
+thick.</p>
+
+<p>After the meeting was dismissed, the cutter was sent to fetch the
+meat in, killed by Brother Glines. They soon returned and the meat
+was distributed as usual. Presidents Young and Kimball have walked
+out together towards the bluffs. After supper Elder Whipple made me
+a present of a half a candle made from buffalo tallow, by the light
+of which I continue this journal. Although, as may be expected, the
+buffalo are generally poorer at this season of the year, yet Brother
+Whipple has obtained sufficient to make two candles from his portion
+of meat received yesterday morning. The candle burns very clear and
+pleasant. The tallow smells sweet and rich. I imagine it has a more
+pleasant smell than the tallow of domestic cattle.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, May 17</h3>
+
+<p>The morning very cold and chilly, wind northwest. Dr. Richards left
+another letter on the camp ground for the benefit of the next company.
+The letter is secured from the weather by a wooden case, and placed so
+that the brethren can hardly miss finding it.</p>
+
+<p>We started on our journey at 8:13 a.m. After traveling a mile and a
+half, we arrived at the foot of another range of bluffs which extend to
+the river, and began to ascend about a quarter of a mile north from the
+river, the road also turning to the north. A quarter of a mile farther,
+we crossed a stream of spring water about three feet wide. The road for
+a little distance on both sides the stream is rough, sandy and crooked.
+We then turned westward, and passed over a number of bluffs as there
+was no chance to go around them without going miles out of our course.
+On these sandy bluffs, there are very many small lizards about four or
+five inches long from nose to the end of the tail, which is an inch and
+a half long. The body looks short and chunky and is of a light grey
+color with two rows of dark brown spots on each side of the body which
+make it appear striped. The head is shaped something like the head of
+a snake. They appear perfectly harmless and are pretty in appearance.
+After traveling two and a quarter miles beyond the last mentioned
+stream, we arrived at the west foot of the bluffs. The last part of the
+road very sandy and there are several very steep places of descent.
+However all the teams got safely over without difficulty. At the west
+foot of the bluffs, there appears more grass than anywhere we have
+yet been, although the buffalo have eaten it off considerably. Within
+a quarter of a mile from the bluffs, we crossed two small streams of
+spring water and at a mile from the foot of the bluffs, we crossed a
+stream of spring water about four feet wide with a very rapid current.
+The whole of this bottom seems full of springs and we have to keep near
+the bluffs to make a good road to travel, and in fact, we find it more
+or less soft and springy even close to the bluffs. A mile and a quarter
+west of the last mentioned spring is another small stream of very clear
+spring water. The others are rather muddy by running over sandy land.
+They all appear to have their rise in the bluffs a short distance from
+our road. At 11:35 we stopped to feed having traveled this morning,
+six and three quarters miles. Our course west, weather fine, warm, and
+little wind. While we were resting, one of President Young's horses
+(in care of Phineas) mired down in a soft slough. A number of men soon
+collected and with a rope dragged it out, washed and rubbed it, and all
+was well again. Latitude 41° 12' 50".</p>
+
+<p>At two o'clock, we proceeded onward. After traveling a half a mile, we
+arrived at a very shoal stream of clear water about thirty feet wide
+but not over three inches deep in the channel which is about three feet
+wide. We forded it very easily and then passed over a short range of
+low sandy bluffs about a quarter of a mile wide and then entered on
+level prairie again, but we found it very soft and springy. Within two
+and a half miles from the last mentioned stream we passed two others,
+one very small, the other about four feet wide. They both doubtless
+rise from springs at the foot of the bluffs. About ten minutes after
+three o'clock, word arrived that a buffalo was killed by the hunters
+about a mile from the road. Two men were sent to skin and dress it.
+About the same time the revenue cutter arrived with two more buffalo,
+one said to have been killed by Luke Johnson and the other by John
+Brown, also an antelope killed by Amasa Lyman. The wagons halted at
+a quarter to four, took the meat out of the boat, which immediately
+returned to fetch the other buffalo which was killed by Porter
+Rockwell. The meat was cut in quarters and put into the wagons and at
+half past four o'clock we again moved onward and traveled till 5:50
+p.m. and camped on a nice dry bottom prairie where the grass is shorter
+than that we have passed all day. We traveled this afternoon six miles
+and during the day twelve and three quarters, about a west course. We
+are some distance from water but several wells were soon dug and good
+water obtained at about four feet deep. Soon after we camped the boat
+came in with the other buffalo and the meat was all distributed equally
+around the camp, but it appears that some have already got more than
+they need and feel unwilling to take a good forequarter. The bluffs
+on the opposite side the river project to the river for some distance
+opposite this place. Latitude 41° 13' 20".</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, May 18</h3>
+
+<p>The morning fine and very pleasant. At seven o'clock the President
+called the captains of tens to his wagons and gave them a pretty severe
+lecture. He referred to some who had left meat on the ground and would
+not use it because it was not hind quarter. Some would murmur because
+a fore quarter of meat was alloted to them, etc., which is not right,
+for God has given us a commandment that we should not waste meat, nor
+take life unless it is needful, but he can see a disposition in this
+camp to slaughter everything before them, yea if all the buffalo and
+game there is on our route were brought together to the camp, there are
+some who would never cease until they had destroyed the whole. Some men
+will shoot as much as thirty times at a rabbit if they did not kill it,
+and are continually wasting their ammunition, but when they have used
+all they have got, they may have the pleasure of carrying their empty
+guns to the mountains and back, for he will not furnish them. We have
+now meat enough to last some time if we will take proper care of it. As
+to the horsemen, there are none with the exception of Brothers Kimball,
+Woodruff and Benson, that ever take the trouble to look out a good road
+for the wagons but all they seem to care about is to wait till their
+breakfast is cooked for them, and when they have eaten it, they mount
+their horses and scatter away, and if an antelope comes across the
+track, the whole of us must be stopped perhaps half an hour while they
+try to creep up near enough to kill it, but when we come to a bad place
+on the route, all the interest they have is to get across the best
+they can and leave myself and one or two others to pick out a crossing
+place and guide the camp all the time. Such things are not right, and
+he wants them to cease and all take an interest in the welfare of the
+camp, be united, and receive the meat as a blessing from God and not as
+a stink offering from the devil. It is not necessary to preach to the
+elders in this camp, they know what is right as well as he does, and he
+will not preach to them all the time. Let the captains do the best they
+know how and teach their men to do likewise. The meeting dispersed,
+the meat was taken care of and at a quarter past eight we started out
+again, and traveled three and a quarter miles nearly a west course
+over a very hard prairie and good traveling and then arrived at a nice
+stream, Rattlesnake creek, about twenty or twenty-five feet wide, a
+foot or 18 inches deep and a very strong current. This stream must take
+its rise some distance back in the bluffs or else is supplied from many
+strong springs, for there is much water comes down it. We traveled on
+from this near the bank of the river about a northwest course over
+tolerably rough land till 11:10 and then stopped to feed having come
+six and a half miles this morning, the weather very hot. Opposite the
+stream last mentioned on the south side the river, are several pine
+groves, or rather cedar groves. There is some little pine wood, such
+as knots and dead branches that can be picked up on the banks of the
+river. It has floated from above. This, with a little buffalo chips,
+makes a good fire for cooking. Latitude noon 41° 3' 44". Rattlesnake
+creek was so named from the following incident: President Young, as he
+rode up to the banks of the creek discovered that his horse stepped
+within a foot of a very large rattlesnake. He turned his horse away
+without harming it. Soon afterward, one of the brethren came up on foot
+and stepped within two feet and a half of it. It immediately coiled up
+and sprang at him and would have struck him (as it sprang 2½ feet) had
+he not jumped to one side. He took his rifle and shot the snake dead.</p>
+
+<p>The head of Cedar Bluffs, as named by Fremont, is three miles west of
+where we camped last night. At 1:05 p.m. we continued our journey.
+Our route lay near the banks of the river which seems narrower here.
+After traveling three and a half miles, we crossed a stream about six
+feet wide, and three quarters of a mile farther another stream of
+tolerably deep, clear water about five feet wide. This stream is very
+crooked and seems to run from the bluffs to the river in a perfect
+serpentine or zig zag direction. Soon after starting this afternoon, we
+discovered some dog towns, the grass eaten perfectly bare all around.
+The feed is growing worse again, evidently eaten up by the buffalo. At
+noon, a heavy black cloud arose in the west and we had a little rain,
+accompanied by lightning and distant thunder. After passing the last
+mentioned creek about a mile, we had to change our course to nearly
+northwest on account of a bend in the river. We traveled till 5:30
+and formed our encampment on the west bank of a running stream about
+eight feet wide and one foot deep which is five miles from the crooked
+creek, making our afternoon's travel nine and a quarter miles and the
+day's travel fifteen and three quarters. The bluffs and the river here
+are about a quarter of a mile apart, the river very wide, feed poor,
+plenty of float wood, pine and cedar, for fuel. The weather calm and
+warm, though cloudy. After encampment was formed, went with Elder Orson
+Pratt to Dr. Richards' wagon to enter into arrangements for making
+a map of our route. The doctor wants me to do it, assisted by Elder
+Pratt's observations. He handed me Fremont's map, and I retired to my
+wagon to commence operations, but soon found that the map does not
+agree with my scale nor Elder Pratt's calculations. I then proposed to
+Elder Pratt to wait until we get through the journey and take all the
+necessary data and then make a new one instead of making our route on
+Fremont's. The subject is left here till morning. After supper I took
+my candle and finished this day's journal. At dark Colonel Markham
+called the camp together to tell the brethren their duty in regard
+to traveling, guarding teams, and standing guard at nights. The old
+laws of April 18th were talked over and additional by-laws added, but
+not being present I did not hear them, neither can I learn anything
+from those who were present, for they all say that there were so many
+little matters touched upon, and so many resolutions passed that they
+remembered only one--and that is, when any man goes out of the
+sound of the horn to fetch in his team, and sees another man's horse
+or mule or ox, a little beyond or near his, he shall drive it also to
+camp, and if he neglect to do so, he shall be sent back to do it even
+if it requires an escort to make him. About seven o'clock the wind
+shifted around to the north and blew strong and cold.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, May 19</h3>
+
+<p>It has rained a little most of the night and still looks gloomy, cloudy
+and like for a rainy day. Inasmuch as the feed is not good here, it
+was thought best to move on before breakfast a few miles and seek
+better feed. We started out at 5:05, the second division having the
+right to lead, but a part of the first division being ready a little
+before all the second were ready, they rushed on their teams, drove
+fast and those of the second division behind had to leave the track
+and run their teams to take their places. We traveled two and three
+quarters miles, our course eleven and one fourth degrees north of west,
+and then crossed a stream three feet wide, and one quarter of a mile
+farther crossed another four feet wide. Our route lay within about
+one quarter of a mile from the bluffs and a mile from the river which
+takes a bend south from where we camped last night and runs close to
+the bluffs on the south side. We then turned our course to a little
+west of northwest as the river bends again to the bluffs on this side,
+and traveled a quarter of a mile farther and halted for breakfast at
+6:20, having traveled three and a quarter miles. The main body of the
+camp have stopped a quarter of a mile back, being three miles from
+where we started this morning. The road is mostly sandy, tall grass of
+last year's growth. The two streams we passed seem to form many ponds
+of clear water extending at short distances from each other from the
+bluffs to the river. Elder Kimball has been ahead over the bluffs to
+look out the road. It continues to rain a little occasionally with
+light north wind. Elder Kimball found that the bluffs project entirely
+to the river and are very sandy, but we can cross them without going
+out of our course. At twenty minutes to nine, we proceeded onward a
+little and then waited till the rest of the wagons came up. At the
+distance of nearly a mile and a half, we crossed a stream about twenty
+feet wide, not very deep, neither very good to cross, and exactly at
+the distance of a mile and a half, we arrived at the foot of the bluffs
+and began to ascend without doubling teams. Some of the teams stuck by,
+but by the assistance of the extra men, they all got up. The bluffs
+are very high, sandy and rough, and the sand cuts down considerably,
+making it heavy on teams. These bluffs are three quarters of a mile
+from the east foot to the west foot following our trail which is nearly
+straight. About 200 yards from the west foot of the bluffs, we crossed
+another stream five feet wide. It has rained heavily all the time
+since we started after breakfast and continues. Consequently at half
+past ten the camp formed into platoons and then halted to wait for
+more favorable weather, having traveled six miles today over the worst
+road we have had from Winter Quarters, rendered worse, doubtless, by
+the heavy rains. About half past two the weather looked a little more
+favorable and orders were given to move on. We started at five minutes
+to three, about which time it again rained heavily. We traveled two
+miles and then formed our encampment in a semi-circle on the banks of
+the river, having traveled two miles and through the day, eight miles.
+The first mile this evening was over very soft prairie, the last hard
+and good. The rain still continues to pour down heavily and this has
+been the most uncomfortable day we have had and the hardest on our
+teams. The brethren, however, feel well and cheerful. The ox teams are
+improving in their condition, but the horses do not stand it as well.
+The stream at the east foot of the last mentioned bluffs was named
+Wolf creek from the following circumstance: When Elder Kimball went
+ahead this morning to search out a road, he went up the creek about a
+mile and around over the bluffs to find, if possible, a better road
+than the one close to the river. While he was searching, about a mile
+north from the river he went down into a deep hollow surrounded by high
+bluffs and as he was riding along at the bottom, he turned his head
+to the left and saw two very large wolves at about five rods distance
+gazing at him. One of them he said was nearly as large as a two year
+old steer. When he saw these he looked around on the other side and saw
+several others about the same distance from him, very large ones, and
+all gazing fiercely at him. This startled him considerably, and more
+especially when he reflected that he had no arms. He made a noise to
+try to scare them away but they still stood, and he concluded to move
+away as soon as he could. They did not follow him and he saw a dead
+carcass near, which satisfied him that he had interrupted their repast.
+On mentioning this circumstance to President Young, they named the
+creek "Wolf Creek." He traveled back and forth over ten miles searching
+out a road before breakfast. He also went out again afterwards and
+got badly wet. He then concluded to change his clothing and remain
+in his wagon. The evening is very cool and cloudy with wind from the
+northeast. The rain had ceased about six o'clock, but it still looks
+stormy.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, May 20</h3>
+
+<p>The morning fair, but cloudy, light wind from northwest and cold. At
+7:45 we started out again but had not traveled over a quarter of a
+mile before the roadometer gave way on account of the rain yesterday
+having caused the wood to swell and stick fast. One of the cogs in
+the small wheel broke. We stopped about a half an hour and Appleton
+Harmon took it to pieces and put it up again without the small wheel.
+I had to count each mile after this. Three quarters of a mile from
+where we camped, we crossed a creek eight feet wide and two and a half
+feet deep. We then changed our course to about southwest a mile or so
+following the banks of the river, as the ground was wet and swampy
+nearer the bluffs. The river then winds around about three miles in a
+bend and then strikes a little north of west. The bluffs on the north
+appear to be about two miles from the river. We traveled till 11:15 and
+then halted to feed, having traveled seven and three quarters miles
+over tolerably good road, though at the commencement somewhat soft. On
+the opposite side the river, the bluffs project near its banks. They
+are rocky and almost perpendicular, beautified for miles by groves of
+cedar. Opposite to where we are halted, we can see a ravine running up
+the bluffs and at the foot, a flat bottom of about fifteen acres. At
+the farther side of this bottom is a grove of trees not yet in leaf.
+Brother Brown thinks they are ash and that the place is what is called
+Ash Hollow and on Fremont's map, Ash Creek. We all felt anxious to
+ascertain the fact whether this is Ash Hollow or not, for if it is,
+the Oregon trail strikes the river at this place, and if it can be
+ascertained that such is the fact, we then have a better privilege of
+testing Fremont's distances to Laramie. We have already discovered that
+his map is not altogether correct in several respects, and particularly
+in showing the windings of the river and the distance of the bluffs
+from it. I suggested the propriety of some persons going over in the
+boat and Brother John Brown suggested it to President Young. The
+boat was soon hauled by the brethren to the river, and Orson Pratt,
+Amasa Lyman, Luke Johnson and John Brown started to row over, but the
+current was so exceedingly strong the oars had no effect. John Brown
+then jumped into the river which was about two and a half feet deep
+and dragged the boat over, the others assisting with the oars. After
+some hard labor they arrived on the opposite shore and went to the
+hollow. They soon found the Oregon trail and ascertained that this is
+Ash Hollow, Brother Brown having traveled on that road to near Laramie
+last season with the Mississippi company and knew the place perfectly
+well. They gathered some branches of wild cherry in full bloom, rambled
+over the place a little while and then returned to camp. About the same
+time the camp prepared to pursue their journey. The brethren arrived
+and made their report, and at 1:45 p.m. we proceeded onward. From the
+appearance of the bluffs ahead, our course this afternoon will be west
+and northwest. A light breeze from northwest. Soon after we started,
+one of the brethren killed a large rattlesnake within a rod of the road
+made by the wagons and on the side where the cows travel. He killed it
+to prevent its injuring the cows and threw it away from the road. In
+the river one and a quarter miles above Ash Hollow, there are several
+small islands on which grow many trees of cedar. One of these islands
+is perfectly green over with cedar and looks beautiful. The bluffs also
+on the south side the river continue to be lined with cedar apparently
+for two miles yet and are very high and almost perpendicular, running
+pretty close to the river. On this side the river, the bluffs seem to
+bear farther to the north, being apparently about three miles from the
+river, and a few miles farther west they are as much as five miles from
+the river. After traveling three and a quarter miles from the noon
+stop, we crossed a tributary stream running into the Platte, in a very
+crooked direction, being from four to eight rods wide and two and a
+half feet deep most of the way across, the bottom quick sand, current
+rapid and water of sandy color like the Platte. Some had to double
+teams to get over, but all got over safely. We proceeded on about four
+miles farther and found that the river bends considerably to the north.
+The bluffs also bend to the south, so that the low bluffs in front
+almost reach the banks only barely leaving room for a road. We went
+a little farther and camped for the night at half past five, having
+traveled this afternoon eight miles, making fifteen and three quarters
+miles during the day. Elder Kimball and several others went forward
+on horses to pick out our road as usual. I have seen several kinds of
+herbs growing today which appear new to me. One looks like penny royal,
+smells almost like it, but tastes hot and like the oil of cloves.
+Elder Kimball and others saw a very large wolf about half a mile west,
+and he appeared to be following them to camp. They turned and rode up
+to him and round him, struck their pistols at him, but they did not
+go off, being damp. He finally made his escape. The large stream we
+crossed this afternoon is named Castle Creek from the bluffs on the
+opposite side which much resemble the rock on which Lancaster Castle is
+built. The bluffs are named Castle Bluffs. We had a light shower this
+afternoon, but the evening is fine though very cool.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, May 21</h3>
+
+<p>The morning very fine and pleasant though tolerably cold. I put up
+a guide board at this place with the following inscriptions on it:
+"From Winter Quarters 409 miles. From the junction of the North and
+South Forks, 93¼ miles. From Cedar Bluffs, south side the river, 36½
+miles. Ash Hollow, south side the river, 8 miles. Camp of Pioneers May
+21, 1847. According to Fremont, this place is 132 miles from Laramie.
+N. B. The bluffs opposite are named Castle Bluffs." At 7:35 we
+continued our journey. We found the prairie tolerably wet, many ponds
+of water standing which must have been caused by a heavy fall of
+rain, much more heavy than we had back. However, it was not very bad
+traveling. We made a pretty straight road this morning at about the
+distance of a mile from the river. The bluffs on the north appear to
+be five miles or over from our road. At 11:15 we halted for dinner,
+having traveled nearly seven and three quarters miles, course north
+of northwest, very warm and no wind. Presidents Young and Kimball
+rode forward to pick the road, and near this place they saw a nest of
+wolves, caught and killed two with sticks. Four or five others escaped
+to their hole. At half past one we proceeded onward and found the
+prairie wet, and grass high of last year's growth. After traveling four
+and three quarters miles we arrived at a range of low bluffs projecting
+to the river, which at this place bends to the north. There is,
+however, bottom of about a rod wide between the bluffs and the river,
+but as it is wet and soft, it was preferred to cross over the bluffs by
+bending a little more to the north. We traveled on the bluffs a little
+over a quarter of a mile and then turned on the bottom again. The
+bluffs are low and almost as level as the bottom. After we crossed the
+bluffs we found the road better. We saw about a mile this side of the
+foot of the bluffs, a very large bone almost petrified into stone. Most
+of the brethren believe it to be the shoulder bone of a mammoth, and is
+very large indeed. About this time a badger was brought to the wagons
+which Brother Woodruff had killed. As I was walking along and looking
+over the river, I heard a rattlesnake, and looking down saw that I had
+stepped within a foot of it. It rattled hard but seemed to make away.
+We threw it away from the track without killing it. At five o'clock
+Elder Kimball rode up and stopped the forward teams till the last ones
+got nearer saying that some Indians had come down from the bluffs to
+the brethren ahead. When the rest of the wagons came up we moved on a
+quarter of a mile farther and at half past five formed our encampment
+in a circle with the wagons close together as possible, having traveled
+seven and three quarters miles this afternoon, making fifteen and a
+half through the day. As the camp was forming the two Indians came
+nearer, being a man and his squaw. They represented by signs that they
+were Sioux and that a party of them are now on the bluffs north of us
+and not far distant. By the aid of glasses we could see several on
+the bluffs with their ponies, evidently watching our movements. This
+man was hunting when first seen and appeared afraid when he saw the
+brethren. The squaw fled for the bluffs as fast as her horse could go,
+but by signs made to them they gathered courage and came up. President
+Young gave orders not to bring them into camp, and they soon rode off
+to the bluffs. The man has got a good cloth coat on and appears well
+dressed. The horses they rode are said to be work horses which makes
+us suspect they have stolen them from travelers. The day has been
+very warm and some of the teams gave out. We can see some timber on
+the bluffs on the other side of the river some miles ahead which is
+the first timber we have seen for more than a week, except some small
+cedar and the timber in Ash Hollow, all on the south side the river.
+We are nearly a mile from water and the brethren have to dig wells to
+obtain a supply for cooking. The feed here is very poor, not much but
+old grass. Our course this afternoon has been a little north of west.
+Lorenzo Young shot two very large ducks with one ball and brought them
+to camp. Elder Kimball proposed tonight that I should leave a number of
+pages for so much of his journal as I am behind in copying and start
+from the present and keep it up daily. He furnished me a candle and I
+wrote the journal of this day's travel by candle light in his journal,
+leaving fifty-six pages blank. The evening was very fine and pleasant.
+The latitude at noon halt 41° 24' 5".</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, May 22</h3>
+
+<p>Morning beautiful, no wind and warm. We have not been disturbed by
+the Indians; all is peace in the camp. At eight o'clock we continued
+our journey, making a more crooked road than usual, having to bend
+south to near the banks of the river. The prairie somewhat soft and a
+little uneven. After traveling five and a half miles we crossed a very
+shoal creek about twenty feet wide. The bluffs and river about a mile
+apart, but on the other side, the bluffs recede two miles back from
+the river and have lost their craggy and steep appearance, the ascent
+being gradual, while on this side they begin to be rocky, cragged and
+almost perpendicular though not very high. We traveled till half past
+eleven and then halted for noon, having traveled seven and a quarter
+miles, the road on this side the creek being better. Our course about
+west of northwest with a light breeze from the east. Elder Kimball and
+others ahead as usual. The creek above mentioned was named Crab Creek
+because some of the brethren saw a very large crab in it. A mile east
+of this creek is a dry creek, down which, from appearances, a heavy
+stream runs at some seasons of the year, perhaps during heavy storms.
+The water running from the bluffs swells it to a considerable height
+and it is certain there are tremendous storms here. A while after we
+halted, Porter Rockwell came in and said he had been on the high bluff
+about a mile northwest of us and had seen the rock called Chimney Rock
+which appeared a long distance off. We have been in hopes to come in
+sight of it today and feel anxious in order to ascertain more certainly
+the correctness of Fremont's distance. In order to satisfy myself,
+although my feet were blistered and very sore, I determined to take my
+telescope and go on the bluff to ascertain for myself whether the noted
+rock could be seen or not. At half past twelve I started out alone. I
+found the distance to the foot of the bluff a good mile, the ascent
+gradual. From the foot the bluff looks very high and rough, many huge
+rocks having broken from the summit from time to time and rolled down a
+long distance. I found the ascent very steep and lengthy in comparison
+to its appearance from camp. When I arrived on the top I found a nice
+slightly arched surface of about a quarter of an acre in extent, but
+barren and very little grass on it. Huge comparatively smooth rocks
+peeped through the surface on one of which I wrote with red chalk:
+"Wm. Clayton. May 22, 1847." On the highest point I sat down and took
+a view of the surrounding country which is magnificent indeed. On the
+south at the distance of two miles from the river, there is a range of
+cedar trees on the bluffs which very much resemble some of the parks
+and seats of gentry in England. East I could see where we camped last
+night, the high grass still burning. Northeast, north, and northwest,
+alternately, appeared high swelling bluffs and valleys as far as the
+eye could see or the glass magnify. West, the course of the Platte for
+ten or fifteen miles and at about four or five miles distance, a large
+bend to the north brings it in contact with the bluffs on this side.
+At the distance, I should judge of about twenty miles, I could see
+Chimney Rock very plainly with the naked eye, which from here very much
+resembles the large factory chimneys in England, although I could not
+see the form of its base. The rock lay about due west from here. After
+gratifying my curiosity, and seeing the men collecting their teams
+for a march, I descended on the west side of the bluff. The descent
+at this point looks more alarming than on the other. The side being
+very steep and all along huge rocks standing so critically, that to
+all appearance, a waft of wind would precipitate them to the prairie
+below with tremendous force. In one place in particular, a ponderous
+mass of rock appears to hang from the edge of the bluff without any
+visible means of being retained in its position, and by gazing at it
+a little while, it is easy to imagine you can see it move and ready
+to overwhelm you instantly. At a little distance from the base of the
+bluff, I turned to gaze on the romantic scenery above and was struck at
+the appearance of a large rock projecting from one corner, which very
+much resembled a frog's head of immense size with its mouth part open.
+The thought was, those bluffs ought to be named and what name more
+appropriate than Frog's Head Bluffs. After this reflection, I walked on
+to where I thought the wagons would come which started out at half past
+one. After traveling three and a quarter miles we crossed a dry creek
+about six rods wide, and a quarter of a mile farther, another about
+five feet wide and a half a mile farther, still another about six rods
+wide on an average. These all appear to be the sources of heavy streams
+of water at some seasons of the year. Soon as we crossed this last
+one, I saw Elder Kimball wave his hat for the wagons to turn off to
+the north in order to cross the bluffs which struck the river a little
+farther. But a little to the west was a very high ridge and I concluded
+to walk on to it. Found it to be a perfect ridge of gravel, very high
+and rounding on the top, not more than four or five feet wide and from
+north to south about 150 feet long. Elder Pratt names this Cobble
+Hills, the gravel or cobbles varying in size of from fifty pounds in
+weight to the smallest pebble. At the north foot of this hill is what
+might be named a clay bank, being composed of a light colored kind of
+sandy clay and forms a kind of large table. A little distance farther,
+we crossed another dry creek about eight rods wide and then ascended
+the bluffs. The ascent is pretty steep for nearly half a mile, but
+hard and not difficult to travel. The wagon had to wind about some to
+keep around the foot of the bluffs, crossing the dry creek three times
+before we emerged from the bluffs to the banks of the river. We crossed
+another dry creek pretty steep on each side and then found ourselves
+once more on the prairie bottom. The bluffs are two and a quarter
+miles from the east to the west foot following our trail. The wind has
+blown from the southeast all day until lately, when a dead calm has
+succeeded. In the west a heavy thunder cloud has been gathering for
+two hours and vivid streaks of lightning observed in the distance. At
+twenty minutes to five the wind struck suddenly from the northwest, the
+blackest part of the cloud then lying in that direction. We had a few
+drops of rain only. Then it seemed to turn off to the east. The scenery
+after this was indeed sublime, the sun peering out from under the heavy
+clouds reflecting long rays upwards which were imitated in the east.
+The romantic bluffs on the north and the lightning playing in the
+southeast all tended to fill my mind with pleasant reflections, on the
+goodness and majesty of the Creator and Governor of the universe, and
+the beauty of the works of his hands. At 5:45 we formed our encampment
+in a circle within a quarter of a mile of the banks of the river,
+having traveled this afternoon, eight and a quarter miles and through
+the day fifteen and a half, making the distance from Winter Quarters
+440 miles in five weeks and three and a half days. The feed on the
+lower bench of the prairie is tolerably good, while the higher land is
+quite bare. We have noticed today a great many petrified bones, some
+very large. All are turned into solid, hard stone, which proves that
+the atmosphere is pure and the country would doubtless be healthy, but
+is not adapted for farming purposes on account of the poor sandy soil
+and no timber at all on this side the river. I have noticed a variety
+of shrubs, plants and flowers all new to me today, many of which have
+a very pleasant smell and in some places the air appears impregnated
+with the rich odors arising from them. Among the rest are numerous
+beds of the southern wood. There are also vast beds of flinty pebbles
+of various colors, some as white as alabaster. About 6:30 I observed a
+group of brethren standing together inside the camp. I went up and saw
+a young eagle which had been taken out of its nest on one of these high
+bluffs by George R. Grant and Orson Whitney. Although it is very young
+and its feathers have scarcely commenced growing, it measures from the
+tips of its wings when stretched, forty-six inches. Its head is nearly
+the size of my fist and looks very ferocious. After this I went with
+John Pack and Horace Whitney to the bluffs. On our way we saw a large
+wolf about as large as the largest dog in camp. He was within a quarter
+of a mile from camp. After traveling about a mile we arrived at the
+foot of a stupendous mass of rocks almost perpendicular, with only one
+place where it was possible to ascend. We went up with difficulty and
+by using our hands and knees, gained the top. We had to walk over a
+little space which was only about three feet wide and on the east side
+a perpendicular fall of about sixty feet. Although from the camp this
+peak looks only large enough for a man to stand upon we found it large
+enough to seat comfortably about twenty persons. The top is composed of
+large rocks and very uneven. The prairie below looks a long distance
+under foot from this peak. Descending we viewed the surrounding scenery
+which looks more like the ruins of an ancient city with its castles,
+towers, fortifications, etc., on all sides, and a dry stream coming
+through the center. We proceeded to the next high rock and found it
+very difficult of ascent. The top is nearly level and very pleasant. We
+discovered several other varieties of shrubbery, all smelling pleasant
+and strong. We saw that a horse has sometime stood on the top, but how
+he got there, we could not easily determine. At the east end there is
+a cedar tree flat on the top and on the underside almost looks like an
+umbrella. We made a calculation of the height of this bluff as well as
+we could and concluded it must be at least 200 feet higher than the
+river. The surrounding country can be seen for many miles from its
+summit, and Chimney Rock shows very plainly. We descended at the east
+end and arrived in camp at dark well satisfied with our journey. Some
+of the brethren have discovered a cave in one of these bluffs, and one
+went into it a little distance, but it being very dark and having no
+torch, he did not venture far. Elder Pratt reports that he saw on the
+top of one of the bluffs, a hole in a rock 15 inches in diameter and a
+foot deep with five inches of very cold good water in it. He supposed
+it to be a spring. Between the bluffs they also discovered a spring of
+pure cold water of a very good taste. Dr. Richards names these bluffs
+"Bluff Ruins" from their appearance being that of the ruins of castles,
+cities, etc. A little to the left is a small perpendicular rock much
+resembling Chimney Rock but smaller. The whole of the scenery around
+is one of romantic beauty which cannot be described with either pen or
+tongue. Last night a large black dog, half wolf, supposed to belong to
+the Indians, came to the camp. He has kept within two hundred yards of
+the wagons all day, and has followed us to this place. There have been
+many rattlesnakes seen today and six or seven killed. In fact, this
+place seems to abound with them. The evening was spent very joyfully by
+most of the brethren, it being very pleasant and moonlight. A number
+danced till the bugle sounded for bed time at nine o'clock. A mock
+trial was also prosecuted in the case of the camp vs. James Davenport
+for blockading the highway and turning ladies out of their course.
+Jackson Redding acted as the presiding judge. Elder Whipple attorney
+for defendant and Luke Johnson attorney for the people. We have many
+such trials in the camp which are amusing enough and tend among other
+things to pass away the time cheerfully during leisure moments. It was
+remarked this evening that we have one man in camp who is entitled to
+the credit of being more even tempered than any of the others, and that
+is Father Chamberlain. He is invariably cross and quarrelsome, but the
+brethren all take it as a joke and he makes considerable amusement for
+the camp. Opposite the encampment there are quite a number of small
+islands, but no timber on any of them.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, May 23</h3>
+
+<p>The morning very fine and pleasant. Brother Egan commenced washing
+very early on the banks of the river. He kindly volunteered to wash my
+dirty clothing which I accepted as a favor. After breakfast President
+Young, Elders Kimball, Richards, Pratt, Woodruff, Smith and Benson and
+Lyman walked out to view Bluff Ruins and returned at half past eleven.
+A while ago I went out a little distance to view an adder which George
+Billings had discovered. It was a dark brown color about 18 inches
+long and three quarters of an inch thick through the body. They are
+represented as very poisonous. About eleven o'clock Nathaniel Fairbanks
+came into camp having been bitten in the leg by a rattlesnake. He went
+on the bluffs with Aaron Farr and Brother Rolf and as they jumped off
+from the bluff, the snake bit him, the others having jumped over him
+farther. He said that in two minutes after he was bitten his tongue
+began to prick and feel numb. When he got to camp his tongue and
+hands pricked and felt numb as a person feels their feet sometimes
+when they are said to be asleep. The brethren immediately applied
+some tobacco juice and leaves, also turpentine, and bound tobacco on
+his leg which was considerably swollen. We laid hands on him and Luke
+Johnson administered a dose of lobelia in number six after he had taken
+a strong drink of alcohol and water. The lobelia soon vomitted him
+powerfully. He complains much of sickness at his stomach and dimness
+in his eyes. He appears to be in much pain. While the brethren of the
+quorum of the twelve were on one of the high detached bluffs they found
+the skeleton of a buffalo's head. Brother Woodruff wrote the names of
+all the quorum of the twelve present and set it upon the southwest
+corner of the bluff. John Brown also wrote his name on it. Elder Pratt
+took the altitude of the bluff and found it to be 235 feet above the
+surface of the river. He did not calculate the height above the sea,
+owing to the state of the atmosphere. He, however, predicted wind from
+the same cause. At twelve o'clock the camp was called together for
+meeting, and after singing and praying we were addressed by Elder Snow,
+followed by President Young. The latter said there were many items of
+doctrine which he often felt like teaching to the brethren, but as
+to administering sealing ordinances, etc., this is no time or place
+for them, they belong to the house of God and when we get located we
+shall have an opportunity to build a house, etc. He expressed himself
+satisfied with the conduct of the camp in general. He is pleased to
+see so much union and disposition to obey council among the brethren
+and hoped and prayed that it may continue and increase. He wants the
+brethren to seek after knowledge and be faithful to acknowledge God in
+all things but never take his name in vain nor use profane language.
+If all the knowledge in this camp were put together and brother Joseph
+were here in our midst, he could comprehend the whole of it and wind it
+around his little finger. And then think of the knowledge of angels,
+and above that, the knowledge of the Lord. There is much for us to
+learn and a faithful man who desires eternal glory will seek after
+knowledge all the time and his ideas never suffered to rust but are
+always bright. He will not throw away the knowledge of small things
+because they are familiar, but grasp all he can and keep doing so and
+by retaining many small things he will thus gain a large pile, etc.
+He expressed his feelings warmly towards all the brethren and prayed
+them to be faithful, diligent and upright, for we are now sowing seed,
+the fruit of which will be plucked in after days whether good or
+bad. G. A. Smith made a few remarks, also several others of the
+brethren. The president then stated that on Sunday next he wants the
+brethren to understand that there will be meeting at eleven o'clock and
+the sacrament administered, and he wants the brethren to attend, all
+that can, and not ramble off and fatigue themselves but use the Sabbath
+as a day of rest. He enjoined it upon Bishops T. Lewis, S. Roundy,
+J. S. Higbee and A. Everett to see that the proper necessities
+were prepared for the sacrament. The meeting was then dismissed. A
+while after meeting I walked out with Elder Kimball a piece from
+the camp. We sat down and I read to him my journal of the last four
+days, with which he seemed well pleased. We then knelt down together
+and poured out our souls to God for ourselves, the camp and our dear
+families in Winter Quarters. While we were engaged in prayer the wind
+rose suddenly from the northwest, a heavy cloud having been gathering
+from the west all the afternoon. A sudden gust struck Elder Kimball's
+hat and carried it off. After we got through, his hat was nowhere in
+sight, but following the direction of the wind we soon saw it at a
+distance on the bottom of the prairie still flying swiftly. We both ran
+and chased it about three quarters of a mile and caught it a little
+from the river. While we were out together I remarked that the buffalo
+gnat had bitten us very severely. Elder Kimball said they bit him very
+badly last evening. Their bite is very poisonous, and although they
+are extremely small, they punish a person very much with an itching,
+aching pain like a mosquito bite. About five o'clock the wind blew a
+perfect gale and continued till seven when it commenced to rain very
+heavily, large drops descending, accompanied with hail, which however,
+did not continue very long but the wind continued nearly all night.
+The lightning and thunder continued some time but not very severe. We
+saw the necessity of having good stout bows to our wagons, and the
+covers well fastened down, for the very stoutest seemed in danger of
+being torn to pieces and the wagons blown over. When the wind commenced
+blowing so strongly it turned very cold and long before dark I went to
+bed to keep warm. Brother Fairbanks seems considerably better. This
+evening President Young, Kimball and Benson laid hands on him and he
+seemed much better afterwards.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, May 24</h3>
+
+<p>The morning very cold indeed, strong wind from northwest. At 8:25 we
+continued our journey and traveled over level prairie ten miles, then
+halted to feed at 12:45. The bluffs on the north about two miles from
+us and the river one mile. About noon the weather began to moderate
+and grow warmer. While we were resting two Indians came to camp, their
+object evidently being to get the dog which has followed us to this
+place. They tarried a little while and then went away taking the dog
+with them. At 3:00 p.m., we again proceeded and traveled till 6:00
+p.m., distance six and a half miles, during the day 16½. Several of
+the horse teams gave out and they are evidently failing but the oxen
+are gaining daily. The mules stand the journey well and in fact all
+the teams, considering the scarcity of grass. About 5:30 we discovered
+a party of Indians on the opposite side the river moving west. When
+we formed our encampment they crossed over the river. Some of the
+brethren went to meet them carrying a white flag with them. When the
+Indians saw the flag, some of them began to sing, and their chief held
+up a U. S. flag. It was soon ascertained that their object was to
+obtain something to eat. A number of them came to the camp and were
+conducted around by Colonels Markham and Rockwood. They were shown a
+six and fifteen shooter also the cannon and the gunners went through
+the evolutions a number of times which seemed to please them much.
+They are all well dressed and very noble looking, some having good
+clean blankets, others nice robes artfully ornamented with beads and
+paintings. All had many ornaments on their clothing and ears, some had
+nice painted shells suspended from the ear. All appeared to be well
+armed with muskets. Their moccasins were indeed clean and beautiful.
+One had a pair of moccasins of a clear white, ornamented with beads,
+etc. They fit very tight to the foot. For cleanness and neatness,
+they will vie with the most tasteful whites. They are thirty-five
+in number, about half squaws and children. They are Sioux and have
+two recommends certifying as to their friendship, etc. The brethren
+contributed something to eat which was sent to them. Our course today
+has been nearly west, with a cool wind. The evening fine but cold
+enough to freeze clothing stiff when laid on the grass to dry. Elder
+Kimball has been quite unwell all day and mostly kept to his wagon.
+Opposite the camp on the south side the river is a very large rock very
+much resembling a castle of four stories high, but in a state of ruin.
+A little to the east a rock stands which looks like a fragment of a
+very thick wall. A few miles to the west Chimney Rock appears in full
+view. The scenery around is pleasant and romantic. After the Indians
+had viewed the camp, they returned to their horses and the rest of the
+party who have camped on the banks of the river about a quarter of
+a mile west of us. Elder Sherwood returned with them and soon after
+came back accompanied by the chief and his squaw who signified a wish
+to abide with our camp tonight. The brethren fixed up a tent for them
+to sleep under; Porter Rockwell made them some coffee, and they were
+furnished with some victuals. The old chief amused himself very much by
+looking at the moon through a telescope for as much as twenty minutes.
+Brother Fairbanks is much better this evening. Last night Luke Johnson
+discovered a very large petrified bone in the neighborhood of the
+bluffs as much as two feet wide, but he could not ascertain the length
+of it. After laboring sometime ineffectually to dig it up, he broke off
+two pieces and brought them to camp. They are very white and hard. It
+is now eleven o'clock. I have been writing in Elder Kimball's journal
+since dark, and have but little chance to write as much as I want in
+my own and his both, but I feel determined to do all I can to keep a
+journal of this expedition which will be interesting to my children
+in after days, and perhaps to many of the Saints. The evening is very
+fine but cool and I retire to rest with the feeling: "God bless my dear
+family."</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, May 25</h3>
+
+<p>The morning fine and very pleasant. Most of the Indians, men, women
+and children came early to camp on their ponies and marched around
+mostly trying to obtain something to eat. Several little barters were
+made with them for moccasins, skins, etc. John S. Higbee traded ponies
+with one of them. They have some good ponies and some inferior ones,
+but both male and females are neatly dressed and very tidy. They look
+cheerful and pleased to witness the camp, etc. At 8:20 we proceeded
+onward. After we started, the Indians left us and went over the river.
+One mile from where we started, we began to ascend a low range of
+bluffs to avoid a large, high sandy ridge which projects to the river.
+We traveled three quarters of a mile and descended again to the level
+prairie. At 9:40 we halted to let the cattle and teams graze, the feed
+being good and plentiful, having traveled two and a half miles, mostly
+northwest around a bend of the river. The sun is very hot, the roads
+sandy and hard teaming. The river is probably three quarters of a mile
+wide here and on this side there are many small islands. At 11:15
+continued our journey and traveled till half past one, distance four
+and three quarters miles over a very soft, wet, level prairie. We then
+halted to feed and rest our teams, as they have been hard drawn nearly
+all day. We have seen no game for several days except a few antelope
+and hares. The buffalo appear to have left this region and in fact
+there are little signs of many having been here. The feed is poor,
+mostly last year's growth and very short. One of the hunters killed
+an antelope, which was brought to camp and divided to the captains of
+tens. At 3:00 p.m. we started again and traveled till a quarter to
+six, distance four and three quarters miles, and during the day twelve
+miles. For three miles of the first of this afternoon we had a good
+road, but the last part has been very wet and soft, numerous ponds
+of water standing all around caused by heavy rains. We have camped
+on a very wet spot, but the feed being poor where it was drier, it
+was decided to stay for the benefit of the teams. Our course has been
+about northwest, very little wind and the day very warm. Chimney Rock
+shows very plain and appears not more than two miles distance but is no
+doubt five miles distance or over. Another antelope has been killed and
+brought in by the hunters. Elder Orson Pratt is taking an observation
+to ascertain the height of Chimney Rock. The evening was very pleasant
+and the brethren passed away their time till after nine o'clock
+dancing. Porter Rockwell shot the two antelope spoken of above. He also
+shot two wolves. Latitude six and a quarter miles back, 41° 41' 46".</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, May 26</h3>
+
+<p>The morning very fine and pleasant. I have spent the morning working
+on Dr. Richards' map. At eight o'clock continued on our journey. Elder
+Pratt taking observations to tell the distance our road lies from
+Chimney Rock. Yesterday morning Stephen Markham traded a mule which was
+foundered and unable to work to one of the Indians for a pony. They put
+him in the harness a little towards evening and again this morning.
+When crossing a very soft place the whipple tree unhitched and struck
+against his heels. He ran full gallop towards the head teams and twice
+through the line of wagons causing several teams, horses and oxen both,
+to spring from the road and run some distance before the men could
+stop them. After running nearly a mile some of the brethren caught
+the pony, brought him back and put him to the wagon again without any
+accident, except a little injury to the harness. After traveling four
+and five-eighths miles, we arrived at a point directly north of Chimney
+Rock which we ascertained by the compass, having traveled since it
+was first discovered 41½ miles. We proceeded till twelve o'clock and
+halted to feed, having traveled seven and a quarter miles, a northwest
+course, the road very straight and hard excepting a few spots where the
+water stands caused by late heavy rains. We turned south a little to
+get to grass as the higher prairie is barren, and scarcely any grass on
+it. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope and John Brown one which
+were brought into camp and are being divided amongst the companies as
+usual. Elder Pratt found that Chimney Rock is 260 feet high from its
+base to its summit and the distance from our road at the nearest point
+three miles. The latitude at noon halt 41° 45' 58". At 2:25 resumed our
+journey making our road nearer the river than this morning. The road
+somewhat crooked but good traveling. After traveling five miles, turned
+directly south to avoid a bad slough and went a quarter of a mile and
+then formed our encampment at five o'clock on the banks of the river.
+The last quarter of a mile was not reckoned in the day's travel which
+exclusive of that is 12¼ miles, course north of northwest. The feed
+here is good and sufficient to fill our teams well. Joseph Hancock
+killed an antelope which was brought into camp and distributed. Soon
+after we camped, walked out to the bank of the river with Presidents
+Young and Kimball to read to them some of the minutes of the old
+council. We were joined by Dr. Richards and tarried till seven o'clock,
+at which time a heavy black cloud was fast approaching from the west
+and was soon followed by a strong wind and a little rain which lasted
+only a short time. The evening afterwards warm and pleasant though
+somewhat cloudy. Carloss Murray has been trying to rear the young eagle
+caught on Saturday. After stopping tonight, he put it under a wagon and
+a while afterwards the men ran the wagon back, one of the wheels ran
+over its head and killed it. I wrote in Heber's journal till half past
+ten and then went to rest.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, May 27</h3>
+
+<p>The morning very fine. We have seen a number of romantic spots on our
+journey, but I consider our view this morning more sublime than any
+other. Chimney Rock lies southeast, opposite detached bluffs of various
+shapes and sizes. To the southwest, Scott's Bluffs look majestic and
+sublime. The prairie over which our route lies is very level and green
+as far as we can see. The bluffs on the north low, and about three
+miles distant. The scenery is truly delightful beyond imagination. I
+have finished making Dr. Richards' map to Chimney Rock. Elder Pratt
+has measured the width of the river at this place by the sextant and
+found it to be exactly 792 yards. At ten minutes to eight we continued
+our journey and traveled near the banks of the river till 11:45, being
+eight miles. The route very good, hard and good traveling, although
+a little crooked. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope and Amasa
+Lyman one, which were brought to the wagons and distributed. There
+are some heavy thunder clouds in the south and west and a nice breeze
+from northeast. At two o'clock we continued our journey over the same
+kind of dry level prairie, keeping not far distant from the banks of
+the river and making a straight road. At the distance of four and an
+eighth miles passed the meridian of the northernmost peak of Scott's
+Bluffs being 19¾ miles from the meridian of Chimney Rock. These bluffs
+are very high, steep, and broken like many others, resembling ancient
+ruins. They are probably two miles from north to south extremity, but
+not very wide. We traveled till 4:45 and formed our encampment in a
+circle near the banks of the river which from this place seems to bend
+for some distance to the north, having traveled this afternoon five and
+three quarters miles and during the day thirteen and three quarters,
+mostly northwest. Elders Kimball and Woodruff pointed out the road
+this forenoon. Afternoon Elder Kimball rode with me in Johnson's wagon
+while I read some of his journal to him. The evening is very cold, wind
+northeast, and raining some. Feed is good and the camp generally well.
+Another antelope was brought in by the hunters. The latitude of the
+northernmost peak of Scott's Bluffs 41° 50' 52".</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, May 28</h3>
+
+<p>The morning cool, damp, cloudy and some rain. Wind northeast. At about
+eight o'clock the brethren were called together and the question
+asked: shall we go on in the rain or wait until it is fair? All agreed
+to stay until it was fair. I went to writing in Heber's journal and
+wrote till nearly eleven o'clock. Elder Kimball came to the next wagon
+where some of the boys were playing cards. He told them his views and
+disapprobation of their spending time gaming and dancing and mock
+trying, etc., and especially the profane language frequently uttered
+by some. He reasoned with them on the subject and showed them that it
+would lead from bad to worse if persisted in until the consequences
+would become serious. He exhorted them to be more sober and wise. It
+growing fair, we started out at eleven o'clock, our first four miles
+being north of northwest in consequence of a bend in the river. We
+traveled beside a creek of very clear water about a mile. It rises
+about four miles northwest of where we camped last night and runs in
+a crooked direction till it empties into the river about a mile west
+of the camp. It rises from springs as was proved by Horace Whitney
+who traced it to its source where there is a spring rising out of a
+circular kind of wet swamp about six feet in diameter. The creek is
+about eight feet wide but not deep, the bottom is gravelly. Near where
+it empties into the river, they discovered a number of large spotted
+trout, suckers and dais of a good size. The water tasted very good and
+cold. At the distance of four miles we arrived and traveled at the foot
+of the bluffs, the road sandy and heavy on teams. We soon turned from
+the bluffs on a level barren prairie, hard and good traveling. At nine
+miles descended on a lower bench of prairie where we found it wet and
+soft though not bad rolling. At 4:45 formed our encampment near the
+river, having traveled eleven and a half miles, the last seven a little
+south of west. The feed here is not very good. Driftwood tolerably
+plentiful. We have seen a few small trees on the islands today but
+none on the north bank. Vast quantities of southern wood and prickley
+pear grow on these sandy prairies where there is no grass. The evening
+cloudy and dull with cold northeast wind. While Thomas Brown and Porter
+Rockwell were out hunting about five miles north of here, the former
+saw five or six Indians about a quarter of a mile from him. They also
+saw many new footprints of horses, which shows that there is a hunting
+party near.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, May 29</h3>
+
+<p>The morning cold, wet and cloudy with wind from northeast. We shall not
+travel unless it grows fair and better weather. I spent the morning
+writing in Elder Kimball's journal, but felt very unwell having
+taken cold yesterday and been sick all night. About ten o'clock, the
+weather looked a little better and at half past ten the bugle sounded
+as a signal for the teams to be got together. After the teams were
+harnessed, the brethren were called together to the boat in the circle.
+President Young taking his station in the boat, ordered each captain of
+ten to lead out his respective company and get all his men together. He
+then called on the clerk to call over the names of the camp to see if
+all were present. Joseph Hancock and Andrew Gibbons were reported to
+be absent hunting. Brothers Elijah Newman and Nathaniel Fairbanks were
+confined to their wagons but answered to their names, the remainder all
+present. President Young then addressed the meeting in substance as
+follows:</p>
+
+<p>"I remarked last Sunday that I had not felt much like preaching to the
+brethren on this mission. This morning I feel like preaching a little,
+and shall take for my text, 'That as to pursuing our journey with this
+company with the spirit they possess, I am about to revolt against it.'
+This is the text I feel like preaching on this morning, consequently
+I am in no hurry. In the first place, before we left Winter Quarters,
+it was told to the brethren and many knew it by experience, that we
+had to leave our homes, our houses, our land and our all because we
+believed in the Gospel as revealed to the Saints in these last days.
+The rise of the persecutions against the Church was in consequence of
+the doctrines of eternal truth taught by Joseph. Many knew this by
+experience. Some lost their husbands, some lost their wives, and some
+their children through persecution, and yet we have not been disposed
+to forsake the truth and turn and mingle with the gentiles, except a
+few who have turned aside and gone away from us, and we have learned
+in a measure, the difference between a professor of religion and a
+possessor of religion. Before we left Winter Quarters it was told to
+the brethren that we were going to look out a home for the Saints
+where they would be free from persecution by the gentiles, where we
+could dwell in peace and serve God according to the Holy Priesthood,
+where we could build up the kingdom so that the nations would begin to
+flock to our standard. I have said many things to the brethren about
+the strictness of their walk and conduct when we left the gentiles,
+and told them that we would have to walk upright or the law would be
+put in force, etc. Many have left and turned aside through fear, but
+no good upright, honest man will fear. The Gospel does not bind a good
+man down and deprive him of his rights and privileges. It does not
+prevent him from enjoying the fruits of his labors. It does not rob
+him of blessings. It does not stop his increase. It does not diminish
+his kingdom, but it is calculated to enlarge his kingdom as well as to
+enlarge his heart. It is calculated to give him privileges and power,
+and honor, and exaltation and everything which his heart can desire
+in righteousness all the days of his life, and then, when he gets
+exalted into the eternal world he can still turn around and say it
+hath not entered into the heart of man to conceive the glory and honor
+and blessings which God hath in store for those that love and serve
+Him. I want the brethren to understand and comprehend the principles
+of eternal life, and to watch the spirit, be wide awake and not be
+overcome by the adversary. You can see the fruits of the spirit, but
+you cannot see the spirit itself with the natural eye, you behold it
+not. You can see the result of yielding to the evil spirit and what
+it will lead you to, but you do not see the spirit itself nor its
+operations, only by the spirit that's in you. Nobody has told me what
+has been going on in the camp, but I have known it all the while. I
+have been watching its movements, its influence, its effects, and I
+know the result if it is not put a stop to. I want you to understand
+that inasmuch as we are beyond the power of the gentiles where the
+devil has tabernacles in the priests and the people, we are beyond
+their reach, we are beyond their power. We are beyond their grasp,
+and what has the devil now to work upon? Upon the spirits of men in
+this camp, and if you do not open your hearts so that the Spirit of
+God can enter your hearts and teach you the right way, I know that you
+are a ruined people and will be destroyed and that without remedy,
+and unless there is a change and a different course of conduct, a
+different spirit to what is now in this camp, I go no farther. I am in
+no hurry. Give me the man of prayers, give me the man of faith, give
+me the man of meditation, a sober-minded man, and I would far rather
+go amongst the savages with six or eight such men than to trust myself
+with the whole of this camp with the spirit they now possess. Here is
+an opportunity for every man to prove himself, to know whether he will
+pray and remember his God without being asked to do it every day; to
+know whether he will have confidence enough to ask of God that he may
+receive without my telling him to do it. If this camp was composed of
+men who had newly received the Gospel, men who had not received the
+priesthood, men who had not been through the ordinances in the temple
+and who had not had years of experience, enough to have learned the
+influence of the spirits and the difference between a good and an evil
+spirit, I should feel like preaching to them and watching over them
+and telling them all the time, day by day. But here are the Elders of
+Israel, men who have had years of experience, men who have had the
+priesthood for years--and have they got faith enough to rise up
+and stop a mean, low, groveling, covetous, quarrelsome spirit? No, they
+have not, nor would they try to stop it, unless I rise up in the power
+of God and put it down. I do not mean to bow down to the spirit that
+is in this camp, and which is rankling in the bosoms of the brethren,
+and which will lead to knock downs and perhaps to the use of the knife
+to cut each other's throats if it is not put a stop to. I do not mean
+to bow down to the spirit which causes the brethren to quarrel. When I
+wake up in the morning, the first thing I hear is some of the brethren
+jawing each other and quarreling because a horse has got loose in the
+night. I have let the brethren dance and fiddle and act the nigger
+night after night to see what they will do, and what extremes they
+would go to, if suffered to go as far as they would. I do not love to
+see it. The brethren say they want a little exercise to pass away time
+in the evenings, but if you can't tire yourselves bad enough with a
+day's journey without, dancing every night, carry your guns on your
+shoulders and walk, carry your wood to camp instead of lounging and
+lying asleep in your wagons, increasing the load until your teams are
+tired to death and ready to drop to the earth. Help your teams over
+mud holes and bad places instead of lounging in your wagons and that
+will give you exercise enough without dancing. Well, they will play
+cards, they will play checkers, they will play dominoes, and if they
+had the privilege and were where they could get whiskey, they would
+be drunk half their time, and in one week they would quarrel, get to
+high words and draw their knives to kill each other. This is what such
+a course of things would lead to. Don't you know it? Yes. Well, then,
+why don't you try to put it down? I have played cards once in my life
+since I became a Mormon to see what kind of spirit would attend it,
+and I was so well satisfied, that I would rather see in your hands the
+dirtiest thing you could find on the earth, than a pack of cards. You
+never read of gambling, playing cards, checkers, dominoes, etc., in
+the scriptures, but you do read of men praising the Lord in the dance,
+but who ever read of praising the Lord in a game at cards? If any man
+had sense enough to play a game at cards, or dance a little without
+wanting to keep it up all the time, but exercise a little and then quit
+it and think no more of it, it would do well enough, but you want to
+keep it up till midnight and every night, and all the time. You don't
+know how to control your senses. Last winter when we had our seasons of
+recreation in the council house, I went forth in the dance frequently,
+but did my mind run on it? No! To be sure, when I was dancing, my mind
+was on the dance, but the moment I stopped in the middle or the end
+of a tune, my mind was engaged in prayer and praise to my Heavenly
+Father and whatever I engage in, my mind is on it while engaged in it,
+but the moment I am done with it, my mind is drawn up to my God. The
+devils which inhabit the gentiles' priests are here. The tabernacles
+are not here, we are out of their power, we are beyond their grasp, we
+are beyond the reach of their persecutions, but the devils are here,
+and the first thing you'll know if you don't open your eyes and your
+hearts, they will cause divisions in our camp and perhaps war, as they
+did with the Lamanites as you read in the Book of Mormon. Do we suppose
+that we are going to look out a home for the Saints, a resting place, a
+place of peace where they can build up the kingdom and bid the nations
+welcome, with a low, mean, dirty, trifling, covetous, wicked spirit
+dwelling in our bosoms? It is vain! vain! Some of you are very fond of
+passing jokes, and will carry your jokes very far. But will you take
+a joke? If you do not want to take a joke, don't give a joke to your
+brethren. Joking, nonsense, profane language, trifling conversation and
+loud laughter do not belong to us. Suppose the angels were witnessing
+the hoe down the other evening, and listening to the haw haws the other
+evening, would they not be ashamed of it? I am ashamed of it. I have
+not given a joke to any man on this journey nor felt like it; neither
+have I insulted any man's feelings but I have hollowed pretty loud and
+spoken sharply to the brethren when I have seen their awkwardness at
+coming to camp. The revelations in the Bible, in the Book of Mormon,
+and Doctrine and Covenants, teach us to be sober; and let me ask you
+elders that have been through the ordinances in the temple, what were
+your covenants there? I say you should remember them. When I laugh I
+see my folly and nothingness and weakness and am ashamed of myself. I
+think meaner and worse of myself than any man can think of me; but I
+delight in God, and in His commandments and delight to meditate on Him
+and to serve Him and I mean that everything in me shall be subjected
+to Him. Now let every man repent of his weakness, of his follies, of
+his meanness, and every kind of wickedness, and stop your swearing and
+profane language, for it is in this camp and I know it, and have known
+it. I have said nothing about it, but I now tell you, if you don't stop
+it you shall be cursed by the Almighty and shall dwindle away and be
+damned. Such things shall not be suffered in this camp. You shall honor
+God, and confess His name or else you shall suffer the penalty. Most
+of this camp belong to the Church, nearly all; and I would say to you
+brethren, and to the Elders of Israel, if you are faithful, you will
+yet be sent to preach this Gospel to the nations of the earth and bid
+all welcome whether they believe the Gospel or not, and this kingdom
+will reign over many who do not belong to the Church, over thousands
+who do not believe in the Gospel. Bye and bye every knee shall bow and
+every tongue confess and acknowledge and reverence and honor the name
+of God and His priesthood and observe the laws of the kingdom whether
+they belong to the Church and obey the Gospel or not, and I mean that
+every man in this camp shall do it. That is what the scripture means by
+every knee shall bow, etc., and you cannot make anything else out of
+it. I understand there are several in this camp who do not belong to
+the Church. I am the man who will stand up for them and protect them in
+all their rights. And they shall not trample on our rights nor on the
+priesthood. They shall reverence and acknowledge the name of God and
+His priesthood, and if they set up their heads and seek to introduce
+iniquity into this camp and to trample on the priesthood, I swear to
+them, they shall never go back to tell the tale. I will leave them
+where they will be safe. If they want to retreat they can now have the
+privilege, and any man who chooses to go back rather than abide the law
+of God can now have the privilege of doing so before we go any farther.
+Here are the Elders of Israel who have the priesthood, who have got
+to preach the Gospel, who have to gather the nations of the earth,
+who have to build up the kingdom so that the nations can come to it,
+they will stop to dance as niggers. I don't mean this as debasing the
+negroes by any means; they will hoe down all, turn summersets, dance on
+their knees, and haw, haw, out loud; they will play cards, they will
+play checkers and dominoes, they will use profane language, they will
+swear! Suppose when you go to preach, the people should ask you what
+you did when you went on this mission to seek out a home for the whole
+Church, what was your course of conduct? Did you dance? Yes. Did you
+hoe down all? Yes. Did you play cards? Yes. Did you play checkers? Yes.
+Did you use profane language? Yes. Did you swear? Yes. Did you quarrel
+with each other and threaten each other? Why yes. How would you feel?
+What would you say for yourselves? Would you not want to go and hide
+up? Your mouths would be stopped and you would want to creep away in
+disgrace. I am one of the last to ask my brethren to enter into solemn
+covenants, but if they will not enter into a covenant to put away their
+iniquity and turn to the Lord and serve Him and acknowledge and honor
+His name, I want them to take their wagons and retreat back, for I
+shall go no farther under such a state of things. If we don't repent
+and quit our wickedness we will have more hinderances than we have
+had, and worse storms to encounter. I want the brethren to be ready
+for meeting tomorrow at the time appointed, instead of rambling off,
+and hiding in their wagons to play cards, etc. I think it will be good
+for us to have a fast meeting tomorrow and a prayer meeting to humble
+ourselves and turn to the Lord and he will forgive us."</p>
+
+<p>He then called upon all the High Priests to step forth in a line in
+front of the wagon and then the bishops to step in front of the High
+Priests, which being done, he counted them and found their number to
+be four bishops and fifteen high priests. He then called upon all the
+seventies to form a line in the rear of the high priests. On being
+counted, they were ascertained to number seventy-eight. Next he called
+on the elders to form a line in the rear of the wagon. They were eight
+in number. There were also eight of the quorum of the twelve. He then
+asked the brethren of the quorum of the twelve if they were willing to
+covenant, to turn to the Lord with all their hearts, to repent of all
+their follies, to cease from all their evils and serve God according
+to His laws. If they were willing, to manifest it by holding up their
+right hand. Every man held up his hand in token that he covenanted. He
+then put the same question to the high priests and bishops; next to the
+seventies, and then to the elders, and lastly to the other brethren.
+All covenanted with uplifted hands without a dissenting voice. He then
+addressed those who are not members of the Church and told them they
+should be protected in their rights and privileges while they would
+conduct themselves well and not seek to trample on the priesthood nor
+blaspheme the name of God, etc. He then referred to the conduct of
+Benjamin Rolfe's two younger brothers, in joining with the Higbees and
+John C. Bennett in sowing discord and strife among the Saints in Nauvoo
+and remarked that there will be no more Bennett scrapes suffered here.
+He spoke highly of Benjamin Rolfe's conduct, although not a member of
+the Church and also referred to the esteem in which his father and
+mother were held by the Saints generally. He then very tenderly blessed
+the brethren and prayed that God would enable them to fulfill their
+covenants and then withdrew to give opportunity for others to speak
+if they felt like it. Elder Kimball arose to say that he agreed with
+all that President Young had said. He receives it as the word of the
+Lord to him and it is the word of the Lord to this camp if they will
+receive it. He has been watching the motion of things and the conduct
+of the brethren for some time and has seen what it would lead to. He
+has said little but thought a great deal. It has made him shudder
+when he has seen the Elders of Israel descend to the lowest, dirtiest
+things imaginable, the tail end of everything, but what has passed this
+morning will make it an everlasting blessing to the brethren, if they
+will repent and be faithful and keep their covenant. He never can rest
+satisfied until his family is liberated from the gentiles and their
+company and established in a land where they can plant and reap the
+fruits of their labors, but he has never had the privilege of eating
+the fruits of his labors yet, neither has his family, but when this is
+done he can sleep in peace if necessary but not till then. If we will
+serve the Lord, remember His name to call upon Him, and be faithful, we
+shall not one of us be left under the sod, but shall be permitted to
+return and meet our families in peace and enjoy their society again;
+but if this camp continues the course of conduct it has done, the
+judgment of God will overtake us. He hopes the brethren will take heed
+to what President Young has said and let it sink deep in their hearts.</p>
+
+<p>Elder Pratt wanted to add a word to what has been said. "Much good
+advice has been given to teach us how we may spend our time profitably
+by prayer, and meditation, etc." But there is another idea which
+he wants to add. "There are many books in the camp and worlds of
+knowledge before us which we have not obtained, and if the brethren
+would devote all their leisure time to seeking after knowledge, they
+would never need to say they had nothing with which to pass away their
+time. If we could spend 23 hours out of the 24 in gaining knowledge
+and only sleep one hour of the 24 all the days of our life, there
+would still be worlds of knowledge in store for us yet to learn. He
+knows it is difficult to bring our minds to diligent and constant
+studies, in pursuit of knowledge all at once, but by steady practice
+and perseverance we shall become habituated to it, and it will become a
+pleasure to us. He would recommend to the brethren, besides prayer, and
+obedience, to seek after knowledge continually. And it will help us to
+overcome our follies and nonsense; we shall have no time for it.</p>
+
+<p>Elder Woodruff said he remembered the time when the camp went up to
+Missouri to redeem Zion, when Brother Joseph stood up on a wagon wheel
+and told the brethren that the decree had passed and could not be
+revoked, and the destroying angel would visit the camp and we should
+die like sheep with the rot. He had repeatedly warned the brethren of
+their evil conduct and what it would lead to, but they still continued
+in their course. It was not long before the destroying angel did visit
+the camp and the brethren began to fall as Brother Joseph had said. We
+buried eighteen in a short time and a more sorrowful time I never saw.
+There are nine here who were in that camp and they all recollect the
+circumstance well and will never forget it. He has been thinking while
+the President was speaking, that if he was one who had played checkers
+or cards, he would take every pack of cards and every checker board and
+burn them up so that they would no longer be in the way to tempt us.</p>
+
+<p>Colonel Markham acknowledged that he had done wrong in many things.
+He had always indulged himself, before he came into the Church, with
+everything he desired and he knows he has done wrong on this journey,
+he knows his mind has become darkened since he left Winter Quarters.
+He hopes the brethren will forgive him and he will pray to be forgiven
+and try to do better. While he was speaking he was very much affected
+indeed and wept like a child. Many of the brethren felt much affected
+and all seemed to realize for the first time, the excess to which they
+had yielded and the awful consequence of such things if persisted in.
+Many were in tears and felt humbled. President Young returned to the
+boat as Brother Markham closed his remarks and said in reply, that he
+knew the brethren would forgive him, and the Lord will forgive us all
+if we turn to Him with all our hearts and cease to do evil. The meeting
+was then dismissed, each man retiring to his wagon. And being half past
+one o'clock we again pursued our journey in peace, all reflecting on
+what has passed today, and many expressing their gratitude for what
+has transpired. It seemed as though we were just commencing on this
+important mission, and all realizing the responsibility resting upon
+us to conduct ourselves in such a manner that the journey may be an
+everlasting blessing to us, instead of an everlasting disgrace. No loud
+laughter was heard, no swearing, no quarreling, no profane language, no
+hard speeches to man or beast, and it truly seemed as though the cloud
+had burst and we had emerged into a new element, a new atmosphere, and
+a new society. We traveled six and three quarters miles about a north
+of northwest course and then arrived at the foot of the low bluffs
+which extend within about ten rods of the river, the latter forming a
+large bend northward at this point. At the foot of the bluffs the road
+was sandy and very heavy on our teams. Like all other sandy places,
+it was perfectly barren, being only a tuft of grass here and there.
+After passing over the sand we changed our course to a little north of
+west, not, however, leaving the bluffs very far. The river bends again
+to the south. We then found the ground hard and good to travel over,
+but perfectly bare of grass for upwards of a mile. At five o'clock it
+commenced raining very hard accompanied by lightning and thunder and
+strong northeast wind. It also changed considerably cooler again. At
+five thirty o'clock we formed our encampment on the edge of the higher
+bench of prairie. The feed is tolerably good on the bottom but here
+there is none at all. We have passed a small grove of fair sized trees,
+all green, growing on the islands in the river which are tolerably many
+near here, but there is no timber yet on this side of the river. The
+brethren pick up drift wood enough to do their cooking. I spent the
+evening writing in this journal till half past twelve o'clock, but felt
+quite unwell. The distance we have traveled today is eight and a half
+miles, during the week seventy-four and a half, making us 514½ miles
+from Winter Quarters. There is a creek of clear water about 200 yards
+to the south from which the camp obtains what they want.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, May 30</h3>
+
+<p>The morning fair and somewhat more pleasant, although there is yet
+appearance for more rain. I felt quite unwell through the night and
+also this morning, having severe pain. At nine o'clock most of the
+brethren retired a little south of the camp and had a prayer meeting,
+and as many as chose to, expressed their feelings. At a little before
+twelve they met again in the same spot to partake of the sacrament.
+Soon afterwards all the members of the council of the K. of G. in the
+camp, except Brother Thomas Bullock, went onto the bluffs and selecting
+a small, circular, level spot surrounded by bluffs and out of sight,
+we clothed ourselves in the priestly garments and offered up prayer to
+God for ourselves, this camp and all pertaining to it, the brethren
+in the army, our families and all the Saints, President Young being
+mouth. We all felt well and glad for this privilege. The members of the
+above council are Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, Willard Richards,
+Orson Pratt, George A. Smith, Wilford Woodruff, Amasa Lyman, Ezra T.
+Benson, Phineas H. Young, John Pack, Charles Shumway, Shadrack Roundy,
+Albert P. Rockwood, Erastus Snow, myself, Albert Carrington and Porter
+Rockwell. The two latter, having no clothing with them, stood guard
+at a little distance from us to prevent interruption. When we started
+for the bluffs, there was a heavy black thunder cloud rising from
+the southwest, and from all appearance it might rain any minute, but
+the brethren believed it would not rain till we got through and if
+it did we chose rather to take a wetting than to be disappointed of
+the privilege. It kept off remarkably till we got through and got our
+clothing on, but soon after it began to rain and after we got to camp
+it rained considerably, accompanied by strong wind. I never noticed
+the brethren so still and sober on a Sunday since we started as today.
+There is no jesting nor laughing, nor nonsense. All appear to be sober
+and feel to remember their covenant which makes things look far more
+pleasant than they have done heretofore. I spent most of the afternoon
+in Elder Kimball's wagon with Elder Kimball, President Young, Lorenzo
+and Phineas Young. Read the minutes of President Young's discourse of
+yesterday. About five o'clock President Young, Kimball, Benson and
+others walked out together to the bluffs. They invited me to go with
+them but I was so afflicted with cramps I could scarcely walk, and
+after drinking a cup of tea prepared by Ellen Sanders I went to my
+wagon and retired to bed early. The evening more pleasant with a light
+shower occasionally. Elder Kimball, President Young, and others saw the
+Black Hills in the distance from a high bluff.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, May 31</h3>
+
+<p>The morning fine but cool. I feel quite unwell yet and have been sick
+all night. At a quarter past eight we proceeded onward, found good
+level traveling, the day cool and pleasant. We soon struck a wagon
+trail which evidently leads direct to Fort Laramie. At four miles,
+passed some high sandy bluffs. Traveled till after twelve and then
+turned off a little to the southwest and at half past twelve o'clock
+halted for noon at the edge of lower land where there is some short
+green grass for our teams. The land we have traveled over this morning
+is naked and barren, course west of northwest, distance nine and a
+half miles. A high wind from northwest. Latitude 42° 04' 30". Started
+again at 3:00 p.m., weather warm and wind ceased. At 6:45 p.m. formed
+our encampment on the east bank of a shoal stream about ten feet wide,
+having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter miles, and during
+the day sixteen and three quarters. Our course this afternoon a little
+north of west. About four miles back, passed some timber on this side
+of the river which is the first since the 10th inst, being a distance
+of 215 miles without wood for fire, except driftwood, and much of the
+time nothing but buffalo chips. The last four or five miles have been
+sandy, the ground uneven and very heavy on our teams. The country looks
+perfectly barren; in some places there is nothing but a few weeds and
+garlick. Some of the brethren picked considerable of the latter to eat.
+The feed is very poor indeed, but a little better than four miles back.
+John S. Higbee has killed a deer and some of the brethren wounded two
+others. This deer which Brother Higbee killed is of the long tailed
+species, having a tail more than a half a yard long, and is the first
+one I ever saw of the kind. A while after we camped, President Young
+and Kimball went to the bluffs and again saw the Black Hills in the
+distance. They bowed before the Lord and offered up their prayers
+together.</p>
+
+<p>The month of May has passed over and we have been permitted to proceed
+so far on our journey, being 531¼ miles from our families in Winter
+Quarters, with the camp generally enjoying good health and good
+spirits, and although some things have passed which have merited
+chastisement, we have the privilege at the closing of the month of
+seeing a better feeling, a more noble spirit, and a more general desire
+to do right than we have before witnessed. I feel to humble myself and
+give God thanks for his continued mercies to me and my brethren and
+may His spirit fill our hearts and may His angels administer comfort,
+health, peace and prosperity to all our families and all the Saints
+henceforth and forever. Amen.</p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-12>June 1847</h2>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, June 1</h3>
+
+<p>The morning very fine, warm and pleasant. All is still and quiet as a
+summer's morning, the camp well and in good spirits and a feeling of
+peace, union and brotherly love seems to dwell in every breast. My mind
+revolves back upon by-gone days and then to the present, and I truly
+feel thankful to my God for His mercies to me and for the privilege
+I now daily enjoy. The idea of dwelling with my family in a land of
+peace, in the midst of the Saints of God is better felt than described,
+but the mild, still scenery of this morning puts me in mind of it.
+At nine o'clock we pursued our journey, the stream we passed over is
+called by Grosclaude: "The Raw Hide." Elder Kimball let me have his
+horse to ride. I went in company with George A. Smith who was on foot
+carrying his gun in fulfillment of President Young's prophecy at the
+Pawnee Mission station. The wagons went on till half past eleven and
+then halted for noon. We were about a mile ahead of them. The distance
+they traveled was four and a half miles. At half past one, started
+out again and traveled till a little after four o'clock and saw Fort
+Laramie about four miles to the southwest. Elder Kimball and President
+Young then came up to where Brother Woodruff and I were looking out
+for feed and we started on, President Young having stopped the wagons,
+and went to the ford opposite to the fort. It was finally concluded to
+form our encampment here on the banks of the river. Several men soon
+came down from the fort which is about two miles from here and made
+themselves known as a part of the Mississippi company from Pueblo. They
+have been here two weeks. It caused us much joy to meet with brethren
+in this wild region of country and also because we should have some
+news from the brethren in the army. Luke Johnson being up here with
+the boat and several others coming up, they got the boat into the
+river to go over and see the brethren. And Luke Johnson, John Brown,
+Joseph Mathews and Porter Rockwell started over and about the same
+time, Presidents Young and Kimball started back to bring the camp up.
+When the brethren got over the river Brother Brown met several whom he
+knew and soon returned bringing Brother Crow and his son-in-law over
+to this side. The brethren seemed pleased to meet us. Brother Crow
+reports deaths in the Pueblo detachment since Brothers Tippets and
+Woolsey left, viz. Melcher Oyler, Arnold Stevens. They also state that
+Soloman Tindall was on the point of death. The other portion of the
+battalion they had not heard from. The Pueblo brethren are expected to
+receive their pay and start for this point, at latest by this date,
+and will probably be here in about two weeks. They also recorded that
+three traders from the mountains arrived here six days ago, having
+come from Sweet Water in six days and nights. They traveled day and
+night with horses and mules to prevent their starving to death as there
+is no feed up there. Two of their oxen had died already, etc. The
+snow was two feet deep at Sweet Water when they left, so that we are
+evidently plenty soon enough for feed. At 5:45 the wagons arrived and
+formed encampment on the banks of the river in the form of a V, having
+traveled this afternoon, seven and a half miles and during the day,
+twelve, making a total from Winter Quarters to Fort Laramie 543¼ miles
+and we have traveled it in seven weeks lacking a half a day, but we
+have traveled but a few miles on Sundays. We have arrived so far on our
+journey without accident except the loss of two horses by Indians and
+two killed. We have been prosperous on our journey, the camp are all in
+better health than when we left Winter Quarters and we see daily that
+the Lord blesses us and directs the movements of this camp as seemeth
+Him good and as is for our good and prosperity. The road today has been
+mostly sandy and heavy on teams with but little feed in any place. The
+country begins to have a more hilly and mountainous appearance. Some
+of the Black Hills show very plain from here. The timber is mostly ash
+and cottonwood on the low bottoms near the river. There is some cedar
+on the bluffs. In one of the large ash trees in the middle of the camp
+is an Indian babe or papoose. It cannot be said to be buried, but
+deposited, being first wrapped with a skin and then tied between two
+of the highest limbs of the tree. This is said to be the way they bury
+their dead. The bark is all peeled off the tree below, I suppose to
+prevent the wolves from getting up.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, June 2</h3>
+
+<p>The morning pleasant. About nine o'clock started over the river in
+company with the Twelve and others to view the fort and also learn
+something in regard to our journey, etc. Elder Pratt measured the
+distance across the river at this spot and found it to be 108 yards.
+The water is deep in the channel and the current runs about four miles
+an hour. After crossing we went up to the remains of an old fort called
+Fort Platte which is near the banks of the river, the outside walls
+still standing, but the inside is in ruins, having been burned up.
+The walls are built of adobes or Spanish brick, being large pieces
+of tempered clay dried in the sun and apparently laid one on another
+without mortar or cement. The dimensions of this fort outside are 144
+feet east to west, and from north to south 103 feet. There is a large
+door fronting to the south which has led to the dwellings which have
+been fourteen in number, built in the form of a parallelogram, leaving
+a large space in the center. The space occupied by the dwelling is not
+quite half of the whole fort. Fronting to the east is another large
+door which opens upon a large open space 98¾ feet by 47 feet where it
+is supposed they used to keep horses, etc. At the northwest corner is
+a tower projecting out from the line of the walls six feet each way,
+or, in other words it is twelve feet square with port holes for cannon.
+At the northeast corner has been another projection extending eastward
+29½ feet and is 19½ feet wide. The walls are 11 feet high and 30
+inches thick. We took the dimensions of this with a tape line and then
+proceeded to Fort Laramie about two miles farther west. This latter
+fort was first built of wood about thirteen years since, and named
+Fort William, but being destroyed was afterwards built seven years
+ago with adobes and named John. It stands on the bank of the Laramie
+fork. Laramie fork is a stream forty-one yards wide, a very swift
+current, but not deep. We tarried a little while with the Mississippi
+brethren who have camped close by the fort and then went inside. We
+were politely welcomed by Mr. Bordeau who appears to be the principal
+officer. He conducted us up a flight of stairs into a comfortable room
+and being furnished with seats, we rested ourselves. President Young
+and others entered into conversation with Mr. Bordeau. From him we
+learned that we cannot travel over four miles farther on the north
+side the Platte before we come to bluffs which cannot be crossed with
+loaded wagons. The road is better on this side than the one we have
+traveled, it being hard and not sandy. Feed scarce mostly lying in
+little patches near the river. They send their furs to Fort Pierre on
+the Missouri river a distance of 400 miles by land and receive all
+their stores and provisions back by the same teams, except their meat
+which they kill, there being buffalo within two days' drive. They
+have tried making a garden and planting corn which did well enough
+the first year, but afterwards they could raise nothing for want of
+rain. They have had no rain for two years until a few days ago. They
+have got a flat boat which will carry two wagons easily which we can
+have for fifteen dollars or he will ferry us over for $18.00 or 25c a
+wagon. From the door of this room one can see the same black hill seen
+on Sunday evening and which is Laramie Peak. We could see the snow
+lying on it very plainly. We can also see several ranges of high hills
+in the distance which are no doubt parts of the Black Hills. We went
+across the square to the trading house which lies on the north side
+of the western entrance. The trader opened his store and President
+Young entered into conversation with him. They trade solely with the
+Sioux. The Crows come here for nothing but to steal. A few weeks ago
+a party came down and stole twenty-five horses, all that they had at
+the fort, although they were within 300 yards of the fort at the time
+and a guard around them. The Sioux will not steal on their own land.
+A pair of moccasins are worth a dollar, a lariat a dollar, a pound of
+tobacco a dollar and a half, and a gallon of whiskey $32.00. They have
+no sugar, coffee or spices as their spring stores have not yet arrived.
+They have lately sent to Fort Pierre, 600 bales of robes with ten robes
+in each bale. Their wagons have been gone forty-five days, etc. The
+blacksmith shop lies on the south side of the western entrance. There
+are dwellings inside the fort beside that of Mr. Bordeau's. The south
+end is divided off and occupied for stables, etc. There are many souls
+at this fort, mostly French, half-breeds, and a few Sioux Indians.
+Elder Pratt measured the river and found it forty-one yards. He also
+took the latitude which was 42° 12' 13". Brother Bullock told me that
+several of the brethren had picked up a number of beads off the ant
+hills. Curiosity led me to go and examine and I found it even so. It
+appears that the ants gather all the small pebbles they can carry and
+build them over their hills to prevent the strong winds from blowing
+them away, and amongst the rest, they picked up beads which have been
+lost off the Indians' moccasins and robes, etc. I picked up quite a
+number. Brother Bullock and I took the dimensions of the fort which
+will be given in another place. We then got on board the boat and had
+a pleasant ride about three miles down the Laramie fork to its mouth,
+the current being very swift. At the mouth, the brethren mostly got on
+shore and towed the boat up to camp. After dinner I went over again in
+the cutter which was going to fish with the seine in the Laramie fork.
+They caught sixty or seventy small fish, salmon, suckers, etc. About
+six o'clock we returned to camp. The Twelve have decided that Amasa
+Lyman shall go with Brothers Woolsey, Tippets and Stevens to Pueblo.
+They start tomorrow. Longitude at Fort Laramie 104° 11' 53". I have
+seen three birds here which very much resemble the English magpie in
+size, shape and color, in fact I know of no difference between the two.
+We passed a number of currant bushes about four miles back, quite thick
+with young, green currants. On the morning of the 4th of June, I put
+up a guide board on the north side of the river at the ferry with the
+following inscription on it, viz. Winter Quarters 543¼ miles, junction
+of the forks 227½ miles. Ash Hollow 142¼ miles, Chimney Rock 70¼ miles,
+Scott's Bluffs 50½ miles. Wm. Clayton, June 4, 1847. Elder Pratt took
+the altitude of Fort Laramie and found it to be 4,090 feet above the
+level of the sea. Fremont makes 4,470, differing 380 feet.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, June 3</h3>
+
+<p>The morning cold with strong southeast wind. The first division
+commenced ferrying over the river at five o'clock and took a wagon over
+every fifteen minutes. After breakfast I went over and wrote a letter
+for Elder Kimball to James Brown at Pueblo, then walked up to a high
+bluff on the northwest to view the country, but not being able to see
+far from it, I went to another over a mile farther northwest. Although
+this last was very high I could see nothing but a succession of high
+ranges of bluffs as far as I could see, except the narrow space through
+which the river winds its course. Seeing some heavy thunder clouds
+rising very rapidly from the northwest I returned to camp and arrived
+just before the rain commenced. Elders A. Lyman, Thomas Woolsey, John
+H. Tippets and Roswell Stevens started at 11:15 on horses and mules for
+Pueblo. President Young, Kimball, Richards and Pratt accompanied them
+to the Laramie fork and then held a council, kneeled down and dedicated
+them to God and blessed them. The four then forded the river and went
+on their journey, the others returned to camp. At half past 1:00 p.m.
+it commenced raining heavily accompanied by hail, lightning and very
+loud thunder, which lasted till 3:30 p.m. During the storm, the horses
+were mostly secured in the old fort. The ferrying ceased till it was
+fair again, and about five o'clock the first division were all over.
+The boat was then manned by the second division, John S. Higbee,
+captain. They averaged a wagon across in eleven minutes and one in ten
+minutes and one in ten minutes and twenty seconds. The quickest trip
+made by the first division was thirteen minutes. About seven o'clock
+it commenced raining again from the southeast and rained heavily,
+consequently the brethren quit ferrying, leaving three companies of
+about fifteen wagons on the other side. All the wagons would have been
+taken over today if it had not been stormy.</p>
+
+<p>There is a report come in that there are 2,000 wagons on the road to
+Oregon, but a little distance behind, but we are satisfied the report
+is exaggerated. There are eighteen wagons camped about three miles
+below and one of the men who has come to the fort says that they have
+counted over 500 wagons. They have lost four horses by the Indians.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, June 4</h3>
+
+<p>Morning very fine. Laramie peak shows very plain. The brethren
+commenced ferrying at 4:40 a.m., and at eight o'clock the last wagon
+was over. I walked up to a high bluff with Carlos Murray and picked up
+some stalactites clear as crystal supposed to be isinglass. The bluff
+is very high and almost perpendicular and it is dangerous to get to the
+crystals.</p>
+
+<p>At nine o'clock President Young, Kimball, W. Richards, A. P.
+Rockwood and T. Bullock walked up to Fort Laramie and returned soon
+after eleven o'clock. They have learned very favorable reports about
+Bear River Valley, being well timbered, plenty of good grass, light
+winters, little snow and abundance of fish, especially spotted trout,
+in the streams. About half past eleven o'clock Brother Crow's company
+came down and joined in with the second division and at twelve we
+started on our journey again, following the Oregon road. We traveled
+three miles and at 20 minutes past 1:00, halted near some good grass to
+let our teams feed. The weather is very warm though many light clouds
+are flying. The bluffs come near the river and are very high, steep,
+and look like sand. During the halt I went up on a very high bluff
+near by with my glass. I found it very difficult of ascent. From the
+top I could see Laramie peak very plainly and also some hills a long
+way off to the northwest. The country looks very hilly as far as can
+be seen and the snow on the peak shows quite plain. At half past two
+we continued our journey and found the road sandy and very uneven. At
+the distance of seven and three quarters miles from Fort Laramie we
+descended a very steep pitch or hill. All the wagons had to be locked
+and we were some time getting down. We went on half a mile farther and
+formed our encampment in a circle at half past five, having traveled
+eight and a quarter miles today. At half past five we had a shower
+accompanied by a little lightning and heavy thunder. I will now give
+the list of names of Brother Crow's company who have joined the camp
+today to go with this pioneer camp. They are as follows:</p>
+
+<p>Robert Crow, Elizabeth Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, Elizabeth Jane Crow,
+John McHenry Crow, Walter H. Crow, Geo. W. Therlkill, Matilla Jane
+Therlkill, Milton Howard Therlkill, James William Therlkill, William
+Parker Crow, Isa Vinda Exene Crow, Ira Minda Almarene Crow, Archibald
+Little, James Chesney and Lewis B. Myers, seventeen in number, making
+the total number of souls in this pioneer camp, after deducting four
+gone to Pueblo, 161.</p>
+
+<p>Lewis B. Myers is represented as knowing the country to the mountains,
+having traveled it, and I am told that he came as a guide to Brother
+Crow. They have five wagons, one cart, eleven horses, twenty-four oxen,
+twenty-two cows, three bulls and seven calves.</p>
+
+<p>Inasmuch as there have been some changes in horses and mules, I will
+endeavor to state them and give the number we started with from Fort
+Laramie. Two horses killed by accident. Two horses stolen by the
+Pawnees at Gravel creek; one mule traded for a pony by Brother Markham;
+three horses and one mule gone with the brethren to Pueblo; one horse
+traded by O. P. Rockwell for three cows and two calves; one horse
+traded by John Pack for three buffalo robes; one horse traded by T.
+Brown for a pony at Laramie; one pony traded by J. S. Higbee to
+the Sioux for a pony. These changes with the addition made by Brother
+Crow's company make the number as follows: horses 95, mules 51, head of
+oxen 100, cows 41, bulls 3, calves 7, dogs and chickens, and 77 wagons
+and 1 cart.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, June 5</h3>
+
+<p>The morning pleasant though somewhat cloudy. Elder Kimball gave George
+Billings a lecture about abusing his team, kicking them, etc. He gave
+George some very good advice. The horn sounded early to start but we
+were detained till half past eight on account of several oxen being
+missing. About that time they were found and we pursued our journey.
+After traveling a little over four miles we ascended a steep bluff.
+The road runs on the top of it a little distance in a very crooked
+direction, the surface in some places being hard, uneven rock, which
+shakes and jars the wagons very much. In one place there is a little
+descent and at the bottom a very sharp turn in the road over rough
+rock. Here Brother Crow's cart turned over. However, it was soon
+righted and no injury done to anything. At the west foot is a steep,
+sandy descent but not difficult. The bluff is a half a mile across.
+About a half a mile from the west foot we turned from the river nearly
+a west course and crossed a low gravelly channel where it appears the
+river has run sometime and perhaps does now in high water.</p>
+
+<p>The road after this is considerably crooked and uneven. About a mile
+and a quarter farther we descended again on the same gravelly channel
+and traveled up it a piece and at 11:35 halted for noon opposite a
+very large spring noticed by Fremont. The water of this spring is
+very clear and soft, but considerably warmer than the river water. We
+have traveled this morning six and a half miles. Just as we halted,
+two men came down from the other road on mules to water. They are in
+company with eleven wagons and bound for west of the mountains. They
+say the other road from Laramie is only ten miles to the spring while
+our road has been 14¾ miles. About a half an hour after we stopped, we
+had a nice shower. The 1st division halted about a quarter of a mile
+back from here. Latitude at the warm springs 42° 15' 6". While we were
+halting, the company above referred to passed down the bluffs and went
+ahead of us. They have got many cows, etc., with them. At 1:40 p.m.
+we resumed our journey. After traveling a mile we turned in a narrow
+pass to the northwest between two high bluffs and traveled a quarter of
+a mile farther, then came to where the road rises a very high, steep
+bluff. At the foot is a short sudden pitch and then a rugged ascent
+for a quarter of a mile. The bluff is rocky and many large cobble
+stones lay in the road which made it hard on teams. Appleton Harmon
+took one of his yoke of cattle and assisted George Billings to the top
+and Brother Johnson took Appleton's steers and put them forward of his
+and brought up his wagon. Appleton and Johnson then took the three
+yoke of oxen and fetched up Appleton's wagon which threw us nearly in
+the rear of all the wagons, none of the rest doubling teams. After
+arriving on the top the road was good but still rising for a quarter of
+a mile farther. We traveled on this high land five and a quarter miles
+which was very good traveling although it was considerably rolling.
+Four and a half miles from the top of the last mentioned bluff, we
+passed a large lone rock, standing far away from any other. At five
+and a quarter miles we descended again from the bluff, the descent
+being steep and lengthy but sandy and good to travel. At the foot of
+the bluff we again crossed the gravelly channel and traveled on and
+alongside about a mile, then descended a little to the bottom prairie
+again. At 6:30 we formed our encampment on the west bank of a small
+stream and near a very good spring of cold water, having traveled this
+afternoon 10½ miles and during the day seventeen.</p>
+
+<p>I have put up two guide boards today. One at 10 and the other at 20
+miles from Fort John or Laramie, but the former name is on the guide
+boards. The bluffs we have passed today are mostly very high, rocky and
+broken, with pine growing on most or nearly all of them. We have pretty
+good feed here and plenty of wood and good water. The gentile camp is a
+little east of us. They say that there were two more companies arrived
+at Fort Laramie this morning as they left, and three other companies
+within twenty miles of Laramie. They left this morning. They left
+Independence on the 22nd of April. They are expecting the mail soon
+on mules, but they anticipate keeping ahead of all the companies. We
+find the road very crooked, but not bad traveling. About dark it rained
+some, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The camp was notified that
+tomorrow will be a day for fasting and prayer as last Sunday.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, June 6</h3>
+
+<p>Morning cloudy, cool, and like for rain. At eight o'clock the eleven
+wagons passed us again. At nine the brethren assembled for prayer
+meeting a little from the camp, but many kept about their wagons, some
+washing and some at other things. At eleven o'clock, four Missourians
+came up mounted, being part of a company a little behind. Some of
+these are recognized by the brethren and they seem a little afraid and
+not fond of our company. They say the old settlers have all fled from
+Shariton, Missouri, except two tavern keepers, and I feel to wish that
+their fears may follow them even to Oregon. At half past eleven just
+as the brethren again assembled for meeting it commenced raining hard,
+accompanied by lightning and heavy thunder which caused the meeting to
+break up abruptly. During the storm, the Missouri company passed by us,
+having nineteen wagons and two carriages. Most of their wagons have
+five yoke of cattle to each, and few less than four. They have many
+cows, horses and young cattle with them. They have a guide with them
+who lives on the St. Mary's River at the Columbia. He says we shall
+find water again about six miles from here and then no more for fifteen
+miles farther. It was then considered wise to move on this afternoon as
+we cannot well reach the second watering place in one day. Soon after
+twelve o'clock the weather cleared off, the sun shone and looks like
+for being fine. The wind blows strong from the west. At half past 2:00
+p.m. the camp began to move forward. About three quarters of a mile
+we crossed the same small stream again, and two miles further arrived
+at a sudden bend in the road to the south about two hundred yards and
+then as sudden to the north the same distance occasioned by the water
+having washed a deep gulf where the road ought to run. A mile beyond
+this the wagons came to a halt in a body of timber and brushwood at
+four o'clock, and halted while the brethren on horseback, viz. Elder
+Young, Kimball and Woodruff, went ahead to look for a camping ground.
+They returned at 4:40 and the camp proceeded on. Having proceeded a
+quarter of a mile we passed the camp of the nineteen wagons close by
+the timber a little south of the road. Several of the men came to look
+at the roadometer, having heard from some of the brethren that we had
+one. They expressed a wish to each other to see inside and looked upon
+it as a curiosity. I paid no attention to them inasmuch as they did
+not address themselves to me. At a quarter past 5:00 p.m. we formed
+our encampment in an oblong circle, at the foot of a low bluff on the
+west and close by water, having traveled five miles. The feed here is
+very good and plentiful. Wind strong from the west. Road very crooked,
+mostly a southwest and west course. There is plenty of timber all along
+and the soil looks good on the low lands. One of the men in the company
+of the nineteen wagons told G. A. Smith that he had broken his
+carriage spring and seemed much troubled to know what to do to get
+along. He asked George if there was any man in our company who could
+fix it. George told him there was. After we were camped, Burr Frost set
+up his forge and welded the spring ready to put on before dark.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, June 7</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine. Elder Pratt gave me some instructions on the use of the
+sextant and showed me how to take an observation. He has promised to
+teach me to take observations and calculate latitude and longitude
+and I intend to improve the opportunity. At 6:30 the Missouri company
+passed through again. And at ten minutes past seven we commenced our
+onward course. Dr. Richards left a letter in a guide board 30¼ miles
+to Fort John. I walked about five miles mostly in company with Elder
+Pratt conversing on astronomy and philosophical subjects. Elder Kimball
+then let me have his horse to ride. We traveled till eleven o'clock
+and then halted to feed on the west bank of a small stream and spring
+of clear water, having traveled 7¾ miles, mostly a north of northwest
+course. The road more even and good traveling. Soon after we halted,
+another company of Missourians passed us, having thirteen wagons and
+mostly four yoke of oxen to each. They say they are from Andrew County,
+Missouri. At 12:35 we moved forward. At a quarter of a mile began to
+ascend a bluff which was a quarter of a mile from the bottom to the
+top, the ascent gradual and tolerably steep. From the top of this hill
+we had as pleasant a view of the surrounding country as I have ever
+witnessed. Laramie peak appears only a few miles to the southwest, and
+from that around to the west, north, and northeast, a very extensive
+view of a beautiful country for many miles, indeed, as far as the
+eye could survey. From a fair view of the peak I am satisfied that
+the Black Hills, of which this is a prominent part, are so named
+from the vast forests of pine trees covering their surface and being
+of a dark green color within a few miles of them. The pine grows in
+the most rocky places and abounds on the highest hills, while on the
+lower bluffs it is sparsely scattered and in the bottom land, which
+looks rich and good, there are none. We have passed many noble trees
+and there is no lack of good pine timber in this region. The peak is
+very high, and very broken and craggy, the snow still lying on its
+summit and plainly visible with the naked eye. The ridge over which
+we passed was a half a mile over from the southeast to the northwest
+foot. At that distance we began to descend and had to lock the wagons
+in several places. The descent was rendered unpleasant by the many
+large cobble stones scattered in the road. Many of the brethren threw
+them out of the road as we went along and the road is much improved.
+They have also dug down some places and leveled others, which will
+make the road much better for other companies. At half past three we
+arrived at Horse Creek and formed our encampment on the bottom land
+near the timber or rather in the midst of a grove of ash, cottonwood,
+etc., having traveled five and a quarter miles this afternoon over
+crooked road and during the day, thirteen miles. On this camp ground
+is one of the clearest and largest springs of water I have seen for a
+long time. Elder Kimball having discovered it, he calls it his spring
+or Heber's spring. The creek is also clear and said to have trout in
+it. The feed is much better and more plentiful than we have ever met
+with on this journey. There is abundance of wild mint and sage growing
+here; the mint seems to perfume the air. The sage grows in abundance on
+all this sandy land. There are also many wild currant bushes in full
+bloom and prickley pears all along the road. The other companies were
+all within two miles when we arrived here, but mostly going on a few
+miles farther. A little before we stopped, we had a thunder storm which
+lasted upwards of an hour. During the latter part of it, it rained very
+heavily accompanied by hail and thunder and lightning. Our hunters have
+killed a long-tailed deer and an antelope, which were distributed as
+usual. Brother Crow's hunter also killed a deer, but they are unwilling
+to conform to the rules of the camp in dividing and reserve it all
+to themselves. Brother Crow observed that if they got more than they
+could use they would be willing to let the camp have some. Some of the
+other companies killed an antelope, took off the quarters and left the
+balance on the ground. Brother Pack picked it up and brought it along.
+After we stopped Brother Crow came near meeting with an accident while
+endeavoring to yoke up a pair of wild steers. It took a number of
+men to hold them, having lariats on their saddle-horns. They got the
+lariats entangled round their legs and Brother Crow also, throwing one
+of the steers down and he fast with it. They cut the rope and he was
+liberated without injury. Myers, the hunter, roasts the young antlers
+of the deer and eats them. In regard to Brother Crow's meat, etc., I
+afterwards learned that the whole family had to depend on Myers for
+what they eat, having no bread stuff, nor anything only what he kills,
+and the little flour and meal paid to him for a part of the ferryage,
+he having a small claim on Bordeau. After supper, walked out with Elder
+Kimball and was joined by George A. Smith. Brother Smith told me of a
+good opportunity of sending a letter to my family by some traders who
+are expected down every day and I feel to improve the opportunity. We
+had a very strong wind at night, so much that I could not write.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, June 8</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine though cool. At half past seven we proceeded on our
+journey crossing the Horseshoe creek, which is about a rod wide. We
+traveled two and a quarter miles, winding around the foot of high
+bluffs and then began to ascend them. We found this ascent the worst
+we have ever had, being three quarters of a mile up, and having in
+that distance seven very steep rises. On most of them the teams had to
+double. We saw a buffalo about a half a mile to the south which is the
+first we have seen since about the 21st of May. Two and a half miles
+from the east foot of the last bluff we passed over a small creek,
+nearly dry, and then ascended another high bluff but not nearly so
+bad a rise as the other one. At 11:45 we halted for noon near a very
+small creek with but little water in it, having traveled six and three
+quarters miles over hills and valleys, the roads being very crooked.
+About half an hour before we halted, Harriet Crow got run over with one
+of their wagons. The teams had stopped near the descent from the bluffs
+and she stepped on the wagon tongue to get a drink. The cattle started
+suddenly, threw her under the wheel which passed over her leg below the
+knee and downwards, passing over her foot above the toes. She screamed
+and appeared in great agony. We thought her leg was broken, but were
+soon satisfied to the contrary. Her foot was badly bruised but I think
+there was nothing broken. One of the women washed it with camphor. She
+was then put into a wagon and we proceeded on. Latitude 42° 29' 58".</p>
+
+<p>At 1:40 we proceeded. After traveling a little over a mile and a
+half we passed another small creek, and again ascended a high bluff.
+We found this ridge more uneven than the other, it being a perfect
+succession of hills and hollows for five miles. The road was good
+and hard. While traveling on the top the wind blew very strong from
+the west and it was so cold that we suffered some. The road over was
+indeed very crooked but mostly bending to the north. We could see a
+long distance from the top. The country to the north looks more even
+but south and southwest very hilly and broken. At five miles we began
+to descend gradually, and while watching the roadometer I discovered
+it did not work right which made me pay more attention to it. At ten
+minutes past six we crossed a stream about thirty feet wide and nearly
+two feet deep with a very swift current. It is named on Fremont's map
+as La Bonte river. We formed our encampment on the west bank in the
+timber having traveled this afternoon 8¾ miles and during the day 15½.
+The evening is very cold and much appearance of rain. Porter Rockwell
+has killed a deer and someone else an antelope. Porter says he has been
+on the Platte which is about four miles from here following the La
+Bonte. Soon after we stopped, the men came into camp who were expected
+to carry a letter. They are camped about a mile west of us. I finished
+my letter to my family by candle light, as it is contemplated to start
+in the morning before breakfast and go a few miles to better feed.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, June 9</h3>
+
+<p>Arose at 4:20 and at 5:15 a.m. we moved onward, keeping near the La
+Bonte. At 5:45 halted for breakfast beside the traders' camp, having
+come a mile and a quarter. I sent my letter to them by Aaron Farr, a
+number of the brethren also sending letters. While we halted I got
+the roadometer fixed again and also put up a guide board marked "To
+Fort John 60 miles." These traders or mountaineers said they had left
+a kind of ferry made of three buffalo skins hung in a tree on the
+Platte and wanted Brother Crow's company to have it. It was decided
+to send a company ahead to overreach the Missouri companies and get
+the ferry before they could arrive, and also build a raft for us to
+cross on, kill game, etc. The men say it is about seventy miles to
+where we cross the river. Nineteen wagons were sent ahead and about
+forty men to attend to this business. All of Brother Crow's company
+went, Aaron Farr, J. Redding, the cutter, etc., being five wagons from
+the 1st division and fourteen from the 2nd. They started about half
+an hour before we started. We proceeded at 7:45 and immediately after
+starting had to cross a very steep gulf, being difficult for teams to
+get up, though it was not long. Soon after this, four men passed us
+with pack horses and mules. They say they are from Pueblo and going
+to Green River; they told others they were from Santa Fe and going to
+San Francisco. We found the road very hilly and uneven and crooked as
+yesterday. At three and three quarters miles passed over a branch of
+the La Bonte, a stream about ten feet wide but not deep. The descent
+and ascent being very steep, most of the teams required assistance to
+get up. For half a mile before we crossed this stream and three and a
+half miles after, our road lay over a kind of red earth or sand about
+the color of red precipitate. Most of the rocks and bluffs are of the
+same red color, only a deeper red. It affected my eyes much from its
+brightness and strange appearance. About one and a quarter miles west
+of the creek President Young and Kimball saw a large toad which had
+horns on its head and a tail. It did not jump like a toad but crawled
+like a mouse. This was seen near a large pile of rock or rather a hill.
+At 12:40 we halted for noon having come ten miles since breakfast.
+There is little water here for the teams. The day fine and nice west
+breeze. The road is very crooked, hilly, and mostly rocky, many large
+cobble stones covering the bluffs, the land barren and little grass.
+The ground here is covered with large crickets which are so numerous,
+to walk without stepping on them is almost impossible.</p>
+
+<p>At half past two o'clock we were on the move again. I put up another
+guide board a little east of the creek: "70 miles." We found the road
+much better this afternoon, not being so uneven, and tolerably straight
+excepting a bluff to climb a mile from the creek. At the foot of this
+bluff I saw a toad with a tail like a lizard, about three inches long.
+It had no horns but there was the appearance of horns just coming on
+each side of the head. It resembles a lizard in color, tail, and motion
+when running swiftly through the grass. Its hide appeared hard and on
+its sides appeared numerous little sharp pointed fins or pricks. In
+other respects it resembled any common toad. At a quarter past one we
+formed our encampment on the east banks of a stream about a rod wide,
+two feet deep and swift current. It is named the A La Pierre. We have
+traveled eight miles this afternoon and during the day 19¼. We have a
+good place for feed but the higher land is barren, abounding only in
+wild sage. There are still some high bluffs around but the country west
+appears much more level. The evening fine but cool. After traveling six
+and a quarter miles from noon halt, passed a small creek, and again
+three quarters of a mile farther passed the same creek. Sterling Driggs
+killed an antelope and a deer.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, June 10</h3>
+
+<p>The morning calm and very pleasant. There is wild mint growing on the
+bank of this stream in great plenty and abundance of wild sage on all
+the higher land. The mint smells natural, but the sage smells strong
+of turpentine and a little like camphor. Started at half past seven
+and found good roads. At four and a half miles passed over a small
+creek about three feet wide but not much water, being only a few inches
+deep. A mile farther passed another creek about five feet wide, clear
+water and plentiful. At 11:20 we halted on the east bank of a stream
+about thirty feet wide and tolerably deep with a rapid current, having
+come eight and three quarters miles. We have had several long, steep
+bluffs to ascend and descend and two places at the creeks where it was
+hard for the teams to get up without help. We saw one of the Missouri
+companies a few miles ahead of us. Edmund Elsworth killed an antelope.
+There is good feed here and plentiful. Our road has been crooked mostly
+winding northward. The creek on which we camped last night is named
+A La Pierre and about a mile from where the road crosses, it runs
+through a tunnel from ten to twenty rods under the high rocky bluffs.
+The tunnel is high enough for a man to stand upright in it, and when
+standing at the entrance one can see the light through on the other
+side. It seems as though this tunnel has been formed by some strange
+feat of nature. Several of the brethren went to see it. Lewis Barney
+and another brother each killed an antelope which were brought into
+camp during the halt and divided. The brethren carried the two last
+about five miles on their shoulders. We have learned today from one
+of the travelers that there is one man living and making a farm in
+the Bear River valley. At a quarter to 2:00 we continued our journey.
+Found the road somewhat more even and good traveling. I put a guide
+board this morning at 80 miles from Fort John, and this afternoon after
+traveling three and a quarter miles from noon halt I put up another
+mark at 90 miles. Just as I finished setting it, I looked forward and
+saw the Platte river again. After descending a half a mile we were on
+its banks, being 77 miles since we left it on Saturday last, after
+having wound around among the hills and bluffs all the way. When we
+arrived near the river the road was more level but sandy and harder
+on our teams. There are also some low places where the water stands,
+making it soft, but scarcely any feed for teams since we left the creek
+at noon. At a quarter to six we passed another stream about thirty feet
+wide and two feet deep, swift current and clear water. Name is Deer
+Creek. There is plenty of timber on its banks and abundance of good,
+rich grass for our teams. We formed our encampment on the west bank
+in a grove of large timber. About a mile back we passed a sick horse
+supposed to be left by some of the companies ahead. Brother Markham
+bled it in its mouth, but could not get it along and had to leave it.
+The distance we have traveled this afternoon was nine miles and during
+the day 17¾ miles, the last five miles being nearly a west course. Soon
+after we camped, Horace Whitney went to fishing in this stream. We were
+soon satisfied that there are plenty of fish in it. I got a line and
+went to fishing also and in a few minutes caught two which would weigh
+a half a pound each. We then went a piece below the ford and by fishing
+till a little after dark I caught twenty-four nice fish which would
+average over a half a pound each, and some of them would weigh over a
+pound each. The ones I caught were of a very bright color and very much
+resembled the herring, but much larger. Horace caught a cat fish and
+two suckers. A number of brethren also caught more and some less. There
+is abundance of fish in this stream and we might have caught enough
+for all the camp with the sein but it is ahead with those who are gone
+to build a raft. The Twelve and some others walked out together to the
+river about a quarter of a mile up the stream. Some of the brethren
+discovered a rich bed of stone coal where any quantity might easily be
+dug, and it is said to look good and is a fine quality. The land here
+on the bottom is rich and would doubtless yield good crops of grain and
+potatoes, etc. Lewis Barney killed an antelope this afternoon which was
+distributed as he saw fit, inasmuch as he was not appointed a hunter.
+The evening is very fine, calm and pleasant indeed.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, June 11</h3>
+
+<p>Arose at four o'clock to try and get some more fish. Morning fine and
+warm, but caught only four. I procured a sample of the stone coal from
+G. A. Smith. It looks good. This place reminds me of England. The
+calm, still morning with the warbling of many birds, the rich grass,
+good streams, and plenty of timber, make it pleasant. At 7:35 we again
+continued our journey along the banks of the river which appears
+somewhat wider here than at Laramie. At two and a half miles we passed
+a deep hollow, the banks on both sides being very steep. At four and a
+quarter miles put up a guide board at 100 miles from Laramie, having
+traveled it in a week lacking two and a quarter hours. At 11:50 we
+halted for noon in a grove of timber where there is plenty of good
+feed for a large company. The land since morning has been generally
+level, but sandy and no grass. The road somewhat crooked. About a mile
+back we came around a bend to the south caused by a deep ravine. We
+had to travel more than a mile to make a quarter of a mile direct.
+William Empey, Edmund Elsworth, and Francis M. Pomeroy, each killed an
+antelope. Several of the brethren have taken an interest in the guide
+boards and wherever they see a piece of board sufficiently large, they
+pick it up and preserve it. By this means we have now got enough to
+last 200 miles. The distance we have traveled since morning is nine and
+a quarter miles, being 105 miles in the week including Sunday, or 100
+miles in six days. About half an hour after we halted, Brother Joseph
+Hancock came in with the hind quarters of an antelope which he killed
+about three miles back. He could not carry the remainder and left it on
+the ground. At two o'clock we started again. After traveling one mile,
+we crossed a very crooked, muddy creek, about twelve feet wide and over
+a foot deep. The descent and ascent were both bad on account of a crook
+from one to the other. There is plenty of feed on its banks, but no
+wood. Five and three-quarters miles farther another muddy creek about
+three feet wide and bad to cross on account of the clay being very soft
+in its banks. The balance of the road good, but considerably crooked.
+At half past five o'clock we came to a halt on account of seeing a
+number of wagons about a half mile ahead which proved to be two of
+the Missouri companies camped on the banks of the river and preparing
+to cross here. It was also ascertained that there is no camping place
+beyond them unless we go some distance. It was decided to turn off to
+the river opposite where we are and camp for the night and the wagons
+proceeded accordingly. We went a half a mile from the road and at six
+o'clock formed our encampment near the river where there is plenty of
+timber, having come on the road this afternoon seven and three-quarters
+miles and during the day seventeen miles, exclusive of the distance we
+turned off to camp. The feed here is good and plentiful. The region on
+the banks of the river is pretty level, but a few miles to the south
+there are very high bluffs. Very little chance for feed except in
+places on the banks of the river and generally where there is timber.
+These Missourian companies inform us that the regular crossing place is
+twelve miles farther and that our brethren are gone on there and also
+the balance of the Missourian companies. These men have got a light
+flat boat with them and have already got one load over. They say they
+have killed three bears between here and the bluffs. They have also
+killed a buffalo. There have been signs of bears seen by our brethren
+a number of times, but no bears for a certainty. We have only seen
+one buffalo since we left Laramie until today, when several have been
+seen. One of the Missourians brought a snow ball from the hill on the
+south. He gave Rockwood a piece of it, and he brought it to camp. Elder
+Kimball and several others saw it which now convinces us snow is yet
+lying on these high bluffs. Henson Walker, Charles Barnum and Brother
+Owens have each killed an antelope this afternoon, making eight during
+the day.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, June 12</h3>
+
+<p>Morning very fine with nice east breeze. Brother Markham has learned
+this morning that Obadiah Jennings was the principal in killing Bowman
+in Missouri. Bowman was one of the guard who let Joseph and Hyrum and
+the others get away when prisoners in Missouri. The mob suspected him
+and rode him on a bar of iron till they killed him. At a quarter past
+eight o'clock we continued our journey. At one and a half miles crossed
+a deep gulch pretty difficult to descend but not bad to ascend. One and
+three-quarters miles farther, we crossed a small creek about two feet
+wide on a bridge which the brethren fixed, they having started ahead
+of the wagons for that purpose. One mile beyond the last mentioned
+creek we crossed another muddy stream about five feet wide, and one
+and a half feet deep. At a quarter to 12:00, we halted after crossing
+another large ravine, having traveled seven and three-quarters miles
+over a sandy, barren prairie. In some places it is soft, although the
+soil is much like clay in appearance. The road somewhat crooked, and
+the day fine and warm. During the halt, Brother Rockwood called upon
+the brethren to help fix another ravine immediately west of us. Many
+turned out and it was soon done. James Case and S. Markham went to the
+river opposite here to see if it could be forded. They waded their
+horses over and found the water about four feet six inches deep in the
+channel and the current very swift. Of course it could not be forded
+with loads in the wagons, but the loading would have to be ferried in
+the boat. They made a report of this kind on their return to camp and
+about the same time Brother Chesley came down from the brethren ahead
+and reported their progress and the nature of the crossing place, etc.
+A number of the brethren in company with Elder Kimball and Chesley
+went to the river opposite the camp to decide whether to cross here or
+go on. Brother Markham and Case again went over, but it was finally
+concluded to go up to the other ferry. We accordingly started at half
+past two. I went ahead on foot. At three and a quarter miles, crossed
+a creek about five feet wide. At half past four the encampment was
+formed on the banks of the river, having come four miles, and during
+the day eleven and a quarter. It is about a half a mile from our camp
+to the place where they ferry. I arrived at the brethren's camp at four
+o'clock and learned that they arrived here yesterday about noon. Two
+of the Missourian companies arrived about the same time. The brethren
+concluded that a raft would be of no use on account of the swiftness of
+the current. The Missourian company offered to pay them well if they
+would carry their company over in the boat and a contract was made to
+do so for $1.50 per load, the brethren to receive their pay in flour at
+$2.50 per hundred. They commenced soon after and this evening finished
+their work, and received the pay mostly in flour, a little meal and
+some bacon. They have made $34.00 with the cutter all in provisions
+which is a great blessing to the camp inasmuch as a number of the
+brethren have had no bread stuff for some days. During the afternoon
+yesterday, one of the men of the Missourian company undertook to swim
+across the river with his clothes on. When he reached the current
+he became frightened and began to moan. Some of our men went to him
+with the cutter and arrived in time to save his life. The Missourian
+company seem to feel well toward us and express their joy at having got
+across the river so soon. Rodney Badger exchanged wagons with one of
+them and got a wagon as good as his own, only the tire wants setting.
+He got a horse, 100 lbs. flour, 25 lbs. of bacon and some crackers
+to boot. The provisions and horse are considered to be worth as much
+as his wagon. Since the brethren arrived here they have killed three
+buffalo, a grizzly bear and three cubs, and two antelope. The buffalo
+are very fat and the meat is good and sweet. According to the idea of
+some French travelers camped here, the buffalo are making down east
+behind the hills opposite here, which they say is a certain sign that
+the Indians are on Sweet Water hunting them. The brethren say that the
+buffalo are very plentiful back of these hills. When I returned to camp
+I learned that Tunis Rappleyee and Artemas Johnson were missing, the
+former having started for the hills to get a little snow; the latter
+having been hunting all day. A company were sent out with the bugle to
+find them. Brother Rappleyee returned about eleven o'clock. Johnson was
+found by the brethren who returned still later. All agreeing with the
+report that the hills are eight or ten miles distance, although they do
+not appear more than one mile. There were four antelope killed by the
+brethren but divided according to the feelings of those who killed them.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, June 13</h3>
+
+<p>The morning fine and pleasant. At nine o'clock the brethren assembled
+in the circle for prayer and after they had spent some time, Elder
+Kimball arose and addressed them exhorting them to be watchful and
+humble, to remember their covenants and above all things avoid
+everything that will lead to division, etc. He made use of the
+similitude of the potter and the clay to show that every man had the
+privilege of being exalted to honor and glory if he did not mar in
+the hands of the potter, but would continue passive, etc. His remarks
+were very touching and appropriate to our circumstances. President
+Young followed next on the "Liberty of the Gospel" showing that it
+guarantees all fullness of liberty to every man which fact will tend to
+his salvation and increase, but does not give us liberty to break the
+laws of God, to wander off to the mountains and get lost, nor to kill
+the works of God's hands to waste it, etc. He was followed by Elder
+Pratt on the subject of our avoiding all excesses of folly of every
+description, inasmuch as it disqualifies from the society of just men
+and angels. He exhorted the brethren to be watchful and to seek after
+wisdom and knowledge. The meeting was dismissed at half past twelve
+and a company were then dispatched to get poles to lash the wagons
+together to prevent their rolling over when crossing. Another company
+were sent over the river to build a raft to cross over provisions, etc.
+The brethren are gone to work and are diligently preparing to cross the
+river tomorrow. The day has been very hot, more like a summer day than
+any we have yet had on the journey. The ground seems to be alive with
+the large crickets, and it is said that the bears feed on them and pick
+them up very fast. A person who has never seen them could form no idea
+of the vast numbers of crickets in this region. I spent the day writing
+in Elder Kimball's journal. Phineas Young came in from the mountain,
+having killed a deer.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, June 14</h3>
+
+<p>Morning cloudy and cool. At four o'clock the first division commenced
+ferrying their goods over the river in the cutter and some time
+afterwards commenced taking the wagons across on a raft which proved
+to be very slow work. The second division also began to take their
+goods over on a raft but the current was so strong they only took two
+loads over in it and then quit. The second division then got a rope
+stretched across the river from shore to shore and lashing two wagons
+fast together to keep them from rolling over, they dragged them over
+by the rope, letting them drift with the current to save breaking the
+rope. When the wagons struck on the sand on the other side the upper
+one keeled over, and finally rolled over the other one, breaking the
+bows considerably and losing iron, etc., in the wagon to the amount of
+$30.00 belonging to John Pack. The other wagon had the reach broken
+and some of the bows. They next lashed four wagons together abreast
+and dragged them over the same way. All got over well except the upper
+one which turned on its side, but it was righted again without damage.
+They next tried one wagon alone, but as soon as it got into the current
+it rolled over and over, breaking the bows pretty badly. The plan of
+taking one wagon at a time on a raft is the safest, no accident having
+occurred with it and the wagons got over dry but it is very slow and
+would take us three or four days to get all the wagons across. The wind
+blows strong from the southwest which is much to our disadvantage. At
+3:30 we had a very heavy thunder storm. The rain was heavy indeed,
+accompanied by hail and as strong a wind as I ever witnessed. After
+the storm was over the ferrying was continued, getting my trunk, etc.,
+and the loads in Brother Johnson and Harmon's wagons over, and also
+Harmon's wagon, Johnson's being got over just before the storm. It took
+till nearly ten o'clock to get the loading into the wagons and get
+regulated. The river has been rising all day and has risen very fast
+since the storm. The men have tried hard, much of the time being in the
+water and sometimes up to their armpits which is very fatiguing indeed.
+When they quit at night the first division had got eleven wagons over,
+the second division twelve, making twenty-three wagons after a very
+hard day's labor. There was no difficulty in getting the freight over
+for one man can carry it in the cutter faster than all the rest of the
+camp can get the wagons over.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, June 15</h3>
+
+<p>The morning fine but very windy. The brethren continued ferrying wagons
+over on the raft and also built two other rafts. The wind being so high
+they could not get along very fast. In the afternoon they commenced
+driving over some of the horses and cattle belonging to Brother Crow's
+company. They neglected to take the lariats off the horses and the
+buffalo horse was soon seen to be drowning. Some of the men immediately
+went to it with the skiff and dragged him to the shore but could not
+succeed in bringing him to life. His natural make seemed to hurt him
+from swimming. The rest all got over safely. The cattle got over
+safely also; the current was very strong, the wind high and the river
+rising which made it look dangerous to swim the cattle across. It was
+concluded today to leave several brethren here to make a boat and
+keep a ferry till the next company comes up. By that means they will
+probably make enough to supply a large company with provisions. We have
+learned from a Missourian that there is a large company of emigrants
+coming up on the north side of the Platt above Grand Island. There are
+doubtless some of our brethren and if so they will probably reach us
+before we get through. The day continued windy and somewhat inclined to
+storm, but they succeeded in getting nearly twenty wagons over before
+night.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, June 16</h3>
+
+<p>The morning fine but strong west wind. The brethren continue ferrying.
+A company have gone back about three miles to make two canoes on which
+they intend to build a boat to be used here till the next company
+comes up. Another company also went about half a mile up the river to
+make slabs or puncheons to lay on the canoes. A while before dark the
+brethren returned from below with two good canoes twenty-five feet
+long each and nearly finished and ready to put together. The ferrying
+continued all day but with great difficulty on account of the strong
+wind blowing down stream. When they started over with Brother Goddard's
+wagon the wind was blowing strong. James Craig and Wordsworth were on
+the raft with poles and when they got nearly half way across Brother
+Craig's pole stuck in the sand and threw him overboard. He swam back
+to shore and in spite of Brother Wordsworth's exertions, the wind
+and current carried the raft about two miles down the river. It was
+finally landed by the help of the cutter and without accident. They
+have had three rafts working today, two of which they now work by oars
+which are proving to be far superior to poles in this strong current.
+At the close of day there were still a number of wagons on the south
+shore. Those which had been brought over could not be easily counted on
+account of their being scattered all along the banks of the river for
+about a mile in length. It was now contemplated to leave a company of
+brethren at this ferry to ferry over the gentile companies for a dollar
+and a half a load till the next company of our brethren arrive. This is
+the object for which the new boat is being built. They will thus earn
+a good stock of provisions for themselves and be prepared to set the
+brethren of the next company over without delay and will also be able
+to preserve the boat for our use, for it is the instructions of the
+President that when they have ferried our brethren over to cache the
+boat and come on with them.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, June 17</h3>
+
+<p>The morning fine but windy and cold. The brethren renewed the ferrying
+early and soon after noon they had got the last wagon safely over
+which was a matter of rejoicing to all the camp. Two companies of the
+Missourians had arrived and made application to be set over at a dollar
+and a half a load. When the contract was made with the first company to
+be sent across as soon as our wagons were over, the other company of
+ten wagons offered to pay the brethren 50c per man extra if they would
+set them over first, making $5.00 over the stated price for ferriage
+being ten of the brethren to work at it. Colonel Rockwood had made a
+contract to the above effect with the first company and did not like to
+break it. However, he received a hint that this was Colonel Markham's
+day for the use of the boat and consequently Colonel Markham had a
+right to take the last offer if he chose. He took the hint and they
+went to work forthwith at a dollar and a half a wagon in provisions
+at Missouri prices and 50c extra per man in what they preferred for
+themselves. The afternoon and evening was very cold indeed with a very
+strong wind. After President Young and Kimball got their wagons over,
+being about the last, orders were given for the camp to come together
+and form the wagons in a circle near the ferry. It took till near dark
+before all the wagons got up. The ferrying was continued all night and
+till daylight at which time many of the Missourians' wagons in the two
+companies were over.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, June 18</h3>
+
+<p>Morning very cold and windy. The brethren continued working at the
+new boat, others continued ferrying the Missourians' wagons over. It
+was concluded not to start today but wait and assist in finishing the
+boat and also to take the provisions on which will be realized from
+these two companies. After dinner, I went with brother Pack to fish
+in the last creek we crossed about a mile and a half distance. We
+found the fish numerous and had good luck. I caught sixty-five very
+nice ones which would average half a pound weight each. About six
+o'clock I started back but found I had got more than I could easily
+carry to camp. However, when I got about half way, Brother Cloward
+met me and helped to carry them. We arrived at the camp about sundown
+pretty well tired. The afternoon was very warm and pleasant. When we
+arrived the Twelve and some others were going to council. I went with
+them. The names of those who are appointed to tarry were read over as
+follows: Thomas Grover, John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, Appleton Harmon,
+Edmund Ellsworth, Francis M. Pomeroy, William Empey, James Davenport,
+and Benjamin F. Stewart. Thomas Grover was appointed captain. The
+President then referred to Brother Glines who was wishful to stay
+but the president said he had no council for him to tarry, but he
+might do as he had a mind to. Some explanations followed by Glines,
+but the unanimous feeling of the brethren was to have him go on. The
+President preached a short sermon for the benefit of the young elders.
+He represented them as being continually grasping at things ahead
+of them which belong to others. He said the way for young elders to
+enlarge their dominion and power is to go to the world and preach and
+then they can get a train and bring it up to the house of the Lord with
+them, etc. The letter of instructions was then read and approved by the
+brethren and the council was then dismissed.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, June 19</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine but cool. At 7:50 the camp started out again in good
+health and spirits and the teams in very good order. It was remarked
+by several that their stock had fattened so much while stopping at
+the ferry, they hardly knew them. The grass appears to be rich and
+good. The first six miles of the road was nearly in a west direction
+over several considerably high bluffs. At that distance the road turns
+suddenly to the south and rises up a very high bluff which is upwards
+of a mile from the foot to the summit. There is some interesting
+scenery on the top of this bluff, especially a range of rough, coarse,
+sandy rocks of a dark brown color, rising abruptly above the surface
+of the land in huge masses and ranging east and west. The descent
+on the south side was rough, crooked and uneven, and about half way
+down was a bed of white earth mixed with black in places and others
+yellow. In one place you can pick up small fragments of rock of each
+color within a yard of each other. Towards the foot, the road is still
+more uneven and there are several steep pitches and rises. At one
+o'clock we halted for noon on a spot of good grass about a quarter of
+a mile from a small spring which is the first water we have come to
+since leaving the ferry which is eleven and a quarter miles. There
+is no timber nearer than the bluffs probably two miles away and that
+is small cedar and little of it. The Red Buttes are nearly opposite
+to this place towards the southeast and appear to be two high bluffs
+of red earth or sand, presenting a very triangular, yet interesting
+appearance. After stopping about an hour it was decided to move on
+to the spring and we started accordingly and found it to be a small
+stream of water rising out of the quick sands. At the distance of
+twelve miles from the ferry there is quite a lake of water supposed
+to be supplied by a spring. Indeed we could see the water boil up out
+of the mud in several places. The grass on the banks of this lake is
+good and plentiful but no timber within two miles or upwards. After
+watering teams at the lake, at ten minutes to three we continued our
+journey, bearing near a southwest course over rolling prairie. At the
+distance of eight miles from the spring there is a steep descent from
+a bluff and at the foot there is a high ridge of sharp pointed rocks
+running parallel with the road for near a quarter of a mile, leaving
+only sufficient space for wagons to pass. At the south point there is a
+very large rock lying close to where the road makes a bend, making it
+somewhat difficult to get by without striking it. The road is also very
+rough with cobble stones. At 7:40 we formed our encampment in a small
+spot surrounded by high bluffs, having traveled this afternoon ten
+and a quarter miles and during the day twenty-one and a half which is
+the longest distance we have traveled in one day since we left Winter
+Quarters, and this is considered by all to be the worst camping ground
+we have had on the journey, but we were obliged to take it for there
+is neither wood, grass, nor water since we left the spring. The land
+being perfectly sandy and barren, and nothing growing but wild sage and
+a small prickly shrub something like those on the moors in Lancashire,
+England. There is some grass in this place for our teams but no wood.
+The brethren have to make use of the wild sage and buffalo chips to do
+their cooking. There are two small streams of water, one appears to
+come from the northwest and is not very bad water; the other is from
+the southwest and is so bad that cattle will not drink it. It is strong
+of salt or rather saleratus and smells extremely filthy. Its banks are
+so perfectly soft that a horse or ox cannot go down to drink without
+sinking immediately nearly overhead in thick, filthy mud, and is one
+of the most horrid, swampy, stinking places I ever saw. It was found
+necessary to keep a guard out to prevent the cattle from getting into
+it and orders were given to drive them down a little east where feed is
+pretty good and it is not so dangerous of their miring. The mosquitoes
+are very bad indeed at this place which adds to the loathsome, solitary
+scenery around. Porter Rockwell returned from hunting soon after we had
+camped and reported that he had killed a fat buffalo about two miles
+off. A team was sent to fetch in the meat which they did not return
+till long after dark. Elder Kimball saw six buffalo while riding ahead
+to look out a camp ground. They are represented as being more tame.
+Myers killed two buffalo, but took only the tallow and tongues and left
+the rest to rot on the ground. John Norton and Andrew Gibbons left the
+camp at the springs and went out to hunt, expecting we should stay
+there till Monday. Gibbons has not been seen or heard of since. Norton
+has returned and reports that he has killed a buffalo and left it back
+not far from the spring. About nine o'clock there was an alarm that an
+ox had mired. He was nearly covered but soon got out again.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, June 20</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine, mosquitoes very bad. Two more oxen found almost buried
+in the mud and all hands appeared wishful to leave this place and
+at a quarter past five o'clock we moved out. The first mile was bad
+traveling, there being several steep pitches in the road making it
+dangerous for axletrees. A number of the brethren went ahead with picks
+and spades and improved the road somewhat. After traveling three and
+three quarters miles we halted for breakfast at seven o'clock beside a
+small clear stream of spring water about a foot wide, but plenty for
+camping purposes. The feed on its banks good and plentiful but no wood
+yet. Elder Kimball states that when he and Elder Benson were riding
+ahead last evening to look out a camping ground they came within a
+quarter of a mile of this place but were not near enough to discover
+the water. A while before they arrived here, as they were riding
+slowly along, they saw six men suddenly spring up from the grass to
+the left of the road. The men were clothed in blankets some white and
+some blue and had every appearance of being Indians and the brethren
+thought they were Indians. The six mounted their horses and started on
+in a direction parallel with the road. The brethren also kept on their
+course. In a little while one of the supposed Indians left the rest
+and rode towards the brethren and motioned with his hand for them to
+go back. They, however, kept on and paid no attention to his motion.
+When he saw them still coming, he wheeled round and joined the others
+who all put spurs to their horses and were soon out of sight behind a
+higher piece of land. Soon as they were out of sight Elder Kimball and
+Benson spurred their horses and rode to the ridge and as they arrived
+there they discovered a camp of the Missourians about a quarter of a
+mile to the left of the road and the six Indians were just entering
+the camp. The brethren were now satisfied that these Indians were
+Missourians and had taken this plan to keep us back from this good camp
+ground. It is considered as an old Missouri trick and an insult to
+the camp, and if they undertake to play Indian again, it is more than
+likely they will meet with Indian treatment. Their camp left here a
+little before we arrived this morning and it is now President Young's
+intention to press on a little faster and crowd them up a little. We
+have learned from one of the emigrants a few miles in our rear that
+Andrew Gibbons tarried with their camp over night. When he returned to
+the spring and found our camp gone and the Missourians' camp there, he
+told them of the dead buffalo killed by Norton. They went and fetched
+what meat they wanted and feasted on it, he joining with them and
+faring well. At a quarter past nine we proceeded on our journey. After
+traveling three miles, we arrived at the Willow spring and halted a
+little while to get water. This spring is about two feet wide and the
+water ten inches deep, perfectly clear, cold as ice water, and very
+good tasting. There is a willow grove extending for some distance
+above and below it which will answer very well for firing purposes.
+The grass is good and plentiful and it is one of the loveliest camping
+spots I have seen on the journey, though the land where the stream runs
+below the spring is soft and some danger of cattle miring. The spring
+is situated between two very high hills and is about three rods west
+of the road and shielded from the sun by a bank about eight feet high
+and the willow grove. A little piece before we arrived at the spring
+there are two very deep ravines to cross, which requires some care
+on the part of the teamsters to prevent accidents. At a quarter of a
+mile beyond the spring we began to ascend a very high hill which was
+one mile from the foot to the top and the ascent pretty steep. The
+summit of this hill is nicely rounding and considered to be much the
+highest we have traveled over. From the top can be seen a vast extent
+of country to the south, west, and north. For about twenty or thirty
+miles to the south there appears to be a tolerably level bottom over
+which our future road runs. Beyond this there are vast ranges of high
+hills whose summits are spotted with snow. In the distance to the
+southwest can be seen a small body of water which we suppose to be a
+part of the Sweet Water river. To the west the ridges of rocks or hills
+appear nearer. They are probably not over fifteen miles from us. On the
+north we can see hills a long distance. The one opposite Red Buttes,
+near the spring where we halted yesterday noon, appears only a few
+miles distance. The view from this hill is one of romantic beauty which
+cannot easily be surpassed and as President Young remarked, would be a
+splendid place for a summer mansion to keep tavern. We then descended
+on the southwest corner of the hill and found it to be just one mile
+farther to the foot. At the distance of three quarters of a mile
+farther we found a good place for feed, being plenty of grass, but no
+water nor wood. At a mile and a quarter still farther we crossed a very
+bad slough which is about a rod across and following the road, nearly
+three feet deep in water and stiff mud. Most of the wagons crossed a
+little to the right of the road and found it not so difficult to cross,
+yet very soft. There is also plenty of good grass at this spot. A mile
+beyond this slough we ascended a very steep bluff though not very high
+and the descent on the southwest is also very steep. At 2:45 we halted
+to feed in a ravine where there is plenty of grass and a good stream
+of water about three hundred yards south from the road but destitute
+of wood. We have traveled this forenoon nine miles over barren, sandy
+land being no grass only in the spots above mentioned. During the halt
+it was decided that President Young take the lead with his wagon and
+try to proceed a little faster. At five o'clock we again proceeded, the
+President's wagon going first; all the others keeping their places.
+I will here remark that it is the order of our traveling for each
+company of ten to go forward in their turn. The first ten in the first
+division taking the lead one day, then on the second day it falls in
+the rear of the first division, the second ten takes the lead and this
+continues till each company of ten have taken the lead one day a piece.
+Then the first division falls in the rear of the second division which
+also begins by companies of ten to take the lead of the road as stated
+above and when each ten have had their day, the second division again
+falls in the rear of the first which continues in the same order. Thus
+every man has his equal privilege of traveling one with another. After
+traveling two and a half miles we descended to the bottom land again
+and saw a small stream a little to the left of the road where there
+is plenty of grass. One and three quarters miles farther we crossed a
+creek of tolerably clear water about six feet wide and one foot deep,
+but neither grass nor timber on its banks. After traveling seven miles
+this afternoon we turned off from the road to the left and at 8:20
+formed our encampment on a ridge near the last mentioned creek where
+there is good feed, having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter
+miles, exclusive of allowance for turning from the road, and during the
+day twenty miles. We had been in hopes of reaching the Sweet Water but
+it appears we are yet some miles from it. The whole country around is
+entirely destitute of timber, not a tree to be seen, nor a shrub larger
+than the wild sage which abounds in all this region of country and will
+answer for cooking when nothing else can be found. Some anxiety is
+felt on account of the absence of Elder Woodruff and John Brown. They
+started ahead this morning with instructions to go on about fifteen
+miles and if they found a good place to camp, to stay. They have not
+been seen or heard of since. It is supposed they have fallen in with
+some of the companies either forward or back and have concluded to
+tarry with them over night.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, June 21</h3>
+
+<p>Morning very fine and warm. From this place we can see a huge pile
+of rocks to the southwest a few miles. We have supposed this to be
+the rock of Independence. After breakfast I went to view it and found
+that it was a vast pile of rocks extending from south to north about
+five hundred feet and in width, one hundred feet. The rocks are large
+and seem piled on one another with the edges up. There is no earth
+on the ridge but a little drift sand in which there are currant and
+rose bushes growing. I saw a large mouse on the top which had a long
+bushy tail like a squirrel. It sat up and acted in every respect like
+a squirrel, but in size and color resembled a mouse. At 8:35 the camp
+proceeded onward. After traveling three and a quarter miles we arrived
+on a bed of saleratus which was a quarter of a mile across and on which
+were several lakes of salt water. This place looks swampy and smells
+bad. The beds of saleratus smell like lime, but the saleratus itself
+is said to raise bread equal to the best bought in eastern markets.
+Lorenzo Young gathered a pail full in a short time with a view to test
+its qualities. Large quantities may be gathered in a short time and
+when pulverized it looks clean and nice. We are now satisfied that the
+water we saw from the hills yesterday must have been some of these
+lakes as the Sweet Water is not yet in sight, but these being high,
+show at a long distance. The water is not very salty but brackish and
+tastes sickly. It is reported by travelers that these are poisonous,
+but it is probable that all the poison there is about them is their
+salt causing cattle to drink freely when they can get no other water,
+and the more they drink, the more thirsty they get till they burst
+themselves, which is said to be the effect of drinking the poison,
+viz., to burst. As we passed along a little farther we saw another
+large lake to the left and one to the right of the same nature, their
+banks mostly white with saleratus. At twelve o'clock we arrived on
+the banks of the Sweet Water, having traveled seven and a half miles
+over a very sandy road destitute of wood, water or grass. The distance
+from the upper ferry of the Platte river to this place is forty-nine
+miles by the roadometer. There has formerly been a ford here but lately
+emigrants have found a better ford higher up the river. At this place
+the river is probably seven or eight rods wide and over three feet deep
+at the ford, but in some places it is much deeper still. The current
+is very swift, the water a little muddy, but pleasant tasting. By
+watching it closely it is easy to see on the surface numerous small
+bright particles floating which at first sight might be supposed to be
+salt, however the water itself has not the least saline taste. On the
+banks of the river there is plenty of good grass but destitute of wood
+there being only one solitary tree to be seen and that stands beside
+this fording place. The only chance for fuel appears to be the wild
+sage and other small shrubbery occasionally growing in spots on the low
+banks. After we halted, Sister Harriet Young made some bread using the
+lake saleratus and when baked was pronounced to raise the bread and
+taste equal to the best she had ever used and it requires less of this
+than the common saleratus. A number of the brethren went back during
+the halt and filled their pails with it calculating to make use of it
+during our future journey. The day has been very hot and no wind which
+makes it unpleasant traveling. Elder Woodruff and Brown again joined
+the camp on our arrival here and reported that they had spent the night
+in one of the gentile camps which are now some miles ahead of us. There
+are many high hills or ridges of the granite rock in the neighborhood,
+especially in the east and west, all entirely destitute of vegetation
+and which present a very wild and desolate as well as romantic aspect.
+I can describe their appearance only by saying that it seems as though
+giants had in by-gone days taken them in wheelbarrows of tremendous
+size and wheeled up in large heaps, masses of heavy clay which has
+consolidated and become solid, hard rock. The rock Independence lies
+a little west of where we have halted and after dinner I went to view
+it as well as many others. It lies on the north bank of the river in
+this shape: The extreme southeast corner reaches to within about three
+rods of the river and runs in a direction northwest while the river
+at this place runs nearly a west course. It is composed of the same
+barren granite as other masses in this region and is probably 400 yards
+long, 80 yards wide and 100 yards in perpendicular height as near as
+I could guess. The ascent is difficult all around. Travelers appear
+to have ascended it mostly at the southeast corner where there are
+some hundreds of names of persons who have visited it, both male and
+female, painted on the projecting surfaces with black, red, and some
+with yellow paint. About half way up there is a cavern about twelve
+feet long and three feet wide at the bottom but at the top about ten
+feet wide and eight feet high, formed by a very large heavy mass of
+rock having sometime fallen over an opening or cavity leaving scarcely
+room enough for a man to enter. However there are three places by which
+it may be entered though not without difficulty. There are a number
+of names inside the cavern put on with black paint, doubtless being
+the names of persons who have visited it. On the top of the rock the
+surface is a little rounding something like a large mound with large
+masses of loose rock lying scattered around. Proceeding forward you
+descend, when nearly half way of the length, to a considerably lower
+surface which continues some distance and then rises high again to
+about the same height as the first section. On the top there are a
+number of small pools of water, no doubt collected during heavy rains
+and having no chance to run off, they stand until evaporated into the
+atmosphere. Some of the pools are eight inches deep and taste like rain
+water. It is more difficult descending from the rock than to ascend
+it on account of its being hard and slippery and nothing to hang on,
+and a visitor has to be careful or he will arrive on the ground with
+bruised limbs. At three o'clock p.m. they started on and on arriving
+at the rock found it to be one and a quarter miles from noon halt. We
+put up a guide board opposite the rock with this inscription on it.
+"To Fort John 175¼ miles. Pioneers, June 21, 1847. W. R." The
+letters W. R. are branded on all the guide boards at the doctor's
+request so as to have a mark that the Saints might know; and his
+brand is generally known by the Saints. After traveling on the banks
+of the river one mile beyond the rock, we forded over and found it
+nearly three feet deep in the channel. All the wagons got over without
+difficulty or much loss of time. We then continued a southwest course
+four and a half miles farther and arrived opposite Devil's Gate which
+lies a little to the west of the road; and a quarter of a mile beyond
+this, the road passes between two high ridges of granite, leaving a
+surface of about two rods of level ground on each side the road. The
+road then bends to the west and a quarter of a mile farther, passes
+over a small creek two feet wide but bad crossing on account of its
+being deep and muddy, requiring caution in the teamsters to prevent
+accident. President Young, Kimball and others went to view the north
+side of Devil's Gate and returning reported that the devils would not
+let them pass, or meaning that it was impossible to go through the
+gateway so called. We proceeded on a little farther and at 6:35 formed
+our encampment on the bank of the river having traveled this afternoon
+seven and three quarters miles, and during the day fifteen and a
+quarter. The feed here is good and plentiful and a little cedar can
+be obtained at the foot of one of the rocky ridges about a quarter of
+a mile back. After we had camped I went back to view the Devil's Gate
+where the river runs between two high rocky ridges for the distance of
+about 200 yards. The rock on the east side is perpendicular and was
+found by a barometrical measurements by Elder Pratt to be 399 feet 4¼
+inches high. The one on the west side is about the same height but
+not perpendicular bending a little from the river gradually to the
+top. The river has a channel of about three rods in width through this
+pass which increases its swiftness and, dashing furiously against the
+huge fragments of rock which have fallen from the mountain, makes
+a roar which can be heard plainly in the camp. One of the brethren
+fired off his rifle at the foot of the rock and the report resembled
+much like that of a cannon. Others tumbled fragments of rocks from a
+projection at the entrance about 150 feet high, which made a very loud
+rumbling sound caused by the echoes. The scenery is one of romantic
+grandeur and it seems wonderful how the river could ever find a channel
+through such a mass of heavy, solid rock. The view from this evening's
+encampment over the surrounding country is sublime. To the east, south,
+and southwest the Sweet Water mountains tower high and appear spotted
+with snow; and about twenty to thirty miles distance from the river to
+the west are also hills and ridges interspersed as far as the eye can
+reach, except the land immediately on the river which appears even for
+many miles. These high, barren, rocky ridges on the north side of the
+river seem to continue for many miles.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, June 22</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine. At 7:20 we continued our journey and about 200 yards
+from where we camped, crossed a very crooked creek about six feet wide
+descending from the southwest. After traveling three miles over heavy,
+sandy roads, we crossed another creek about six feet wide; and three
+and three quarters miles farther, a creek two feet wide. Somewhere near
+this last creek, Brother Lorenzo Young broke one of his axle trees
+which detained him some time. One of the Missourian companies came up
+soon after the accident and took his load into one of their wagons and
+by splicing a piece of wood on his axle tree, he was enabled to follow
+our camp. At 11:55 we halted on the banks of the river, having traveled
+ten miles over a very sandy, barren land, there being no grass only
+on the creeks and river banks. During the halt, Elder Pratt took an
+observation and found the latitude of this place 42° 28' 25". President
+Young went back to meet Lorenzo but soon found he was coming on with
+the Missourian company who were approaching near us. He immediately
+turned about and on arriving back gave orders to get up the teams and
+proceed so as to keep ahead of the other company who say they have
+traveled from Independence Rock without halting. However, they passed
+before we could start and got ahead of us. The day has been hot and
+a little wind. At 2:25 we continued, finding the road again leaving
+the river. At half a mile, we passed a very large lake on our left
+which covers an area of over 80 acres of land. Its banks are mostly
+white with the alkali or saleratus. After passing this lake the road
+runs south, passing between high sandy bluffs after which it again
+turns around gradually towards the west and descending a steep bluff
+over very heavy, sandy land. After traveling five and three quarters
+miles crossed a creek about six feet wide and a foot deep. The bank on
+each side is very steep and sandy, making it difficult for teams to
+get up. Here Sterling Driggs had his harness broken to pieces by his
+horses springing suddenly when attempting to rise out of the creek.
+They cleared themselves from the wagon which was hauled up by a yoke
+of oxen so as not to hinder the rest from crossing. The banks of this
+creek are well lined with sage instead of grass which is very large and
+thick on the ground on account of which Elder Kimball named this Sage
+creek. After passing this creek one and three quarters miles we again
+arrived on the banks of the river and continued to travel near to it.
+At two and a quarter miles farther crossed a creek three feet wide, but
+not much to be depended on for water. At 7:50 we formed our encampment
+at the foot of a very high gravelly bluff and near the river, having
+traveled this afternoon ten and three quarters miles and during the day
+twenty and three quarters miles over mostly a very sandy road. This
+is a very good camp ground, there being plenty of grass for our teams
+which is well worth traveling a few miles extra. From this place the
+country seems fortified by hills and mountains especially on the west.
+Lewis Barney and Joseph Hancock have each killed an antelope during the
+day, but there appears to be no buffalo in the neighborhood.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, June 23</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine and warm. After breakfast I went to the top of the
+high bluff expecting to get a good view of the country west but
+was disappointed in consequence of the many ridges or bluffs but a
+little distance beyond us. At seven o'clock the camp moved forward
+and immediately after saw a graveyard on the left of the road with a
+board stuck up with these words written on it: "Matilda Crowley. B.
+July 16th, 1830, and D. July 7, 1846." On reflecting afterward that
+some of the numerous emigrants who had probably started with a view
+to spend the remainder of their days in the wild Oregon, had fallen
+by the way and their remains had to be left by their friends far from
+the place of destination, I felt a renewed anxiety that the Lord will
+kindly preserve the lives of all my family, that they may be permitted
+to gather to the future home of the Saints, enjoy the society of the
+people of God for many years to come, and when their days are numbered
+that their remains may be deposited at the feet of the servants of God,
+rather than be left far away in a wild country. And oh, Lord, grant
+this sincere desire of thy servant in the name of Thy Son Jesus. Amen.
+After traveling one and a half miles we crossed a very shoal stream of
+clear, cold water about five feet wide. There is but little grass here
+although a number of bitter cottonwood trees grow on the banks. There
+being no name on the map for this creek, it was named Bitter Cottonwood
+Creek to designate it in our future travel. It is probable that this
+stream is caused by the melting of the snow on the mountains and if
+so, could not be depended on for a camp ground late in the summer.
+After passing this creek, the river runs between some of the high
+rocky ridges, the road at the same time bending a little southwest to
+pass around them. After traveling five miles beyond the last mentioned
+creek, we again descended to the banks of the river where would be a
+pretty good camp ground although the grass is not so plentiful as in
+many other places on the banks of the river. We traveled till 11:05 on
+the river banks then halted for noon where the road and river separated
+a little farther and hence we would probably not find grass again for a
+number of miles. The land continues very sandy making it hard on teams;
+our course about west, the day very warm with a light south breeze.
+We traveled eight and a half miles this morning. There are some small
+cedar trees on the rocky bluffs which is the only timber seen since we
+passed the Bitter Cottonwood. Latitude of this place 42° 31' 20". At
+1:10 we continued our journey and after proceeding half a mile, found
+the river turns between the granite ridges in a northwest direction and
+seems to have but a narrow space to pass through in several places. The
+road at the same place turns south to avoid the ridges for over a mile
+and then bends to the southwest for some distance farther. The road at
+the foot of these rocky hills is extremely sandy and heavy traveling.
+On arriving at the south side of the hills, we were suddenly cheered
+with a very plain view of the Wind river chain of the Rocky Mountains
+towering high up in the air and perfectly white with snow. Some of
+the peaks appear to run up very high, but we are evidently many miles
+from them yet. After we passed this place, the road gradually bends to
+the west and northwest and at the distance of six and three quarters
+miles from our noon halt brings us to the banks of the river again. We
+continued on the banks of the river till 6:20, at which time we formed
+our encampment, having traveled this afternoon eight and a half miles
+and during the day seventeen. As usual there is plenty of grass on the
+river banks but no wood. There are some dry buffalo chips and wild sage
+which answer tolerably well for cooking. The land over which we have
+traveled, except in the several places above mentioned, is perfectly
+barren except for wild sage which abounds, but there is scarcely a
+spear of grass to be seen. These granite ridges continue from the Rock
+Independence to this place, mostly on the north side the river. Here
+they recede from the river a few miles and then cease. There are two of
+the Missourian companies camped, one about a half a mile and the other
+a mile west of us and we are given to understand we have got a long
+distance to travel without grass or water. It is stated that a man from
+one of these companies left his company a few days ago and went ahead
+to examine the route, etc. On their arrival here they found him in one
+of these rocky hills hid up for fear of the Indians. He reports that he
+has been to the pass and that we shall find water about fourteen miles
+from here. He has come from the pass in two nights and hid up in the
+day time to avoid Indians, but has seen none. He says it is not over
+twenty-eight miles to the pass from here. After we camped, Burr Frost
+set up his forge and set some wagon tires and repaired the wheels of
+the wagons for one of the Missourians. There are no buffalo to be seen
+yet and not much game of any kind. Lewis Barney killed two antelope
+and the brethren mostly killed one or two every day. The Sweet Water
+mountains do not appear very high but have considerable snow lying on
+them in some places. They appear to run nearly parallel with the river
+to about from twenty to thirty miles distance to the south.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, June 24</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine but cool. It was calculated to make an early start so as
+to pass the two companies of the Missourians and get the best chance
+for feed at night, but they started out a half an hour before we were
+ready. We proceeded onward at 6:15 and a little over a mile from where
+we camped, found the river again bending northwest while the road
+continues near a west course and soon rises a high bluff. On the top of
+this, we appear to have a level road for many miles. After traveling
+five miles from morning, we arrived at a level strip of land on the
+north side of the road where there is plenty of grass and apparently
+swampy and soft. It extends in the same direction with the road a
+mile and a half and appears to terminate where the road crosses the
+lower land although the grass and hollow continue southward for some
+distance. Just above where the road crosses at the west end there is
+some water standing around a small, circular, swampy spot of land
+probably about a half an acre. Near the edge at the northwest corner is
+a hole dug which is called the Ice Spring. The water in the hole smells
+strong of sulphur or alkali and is not pleasant tasting, but under the
+water which is over a foot deep there is as clear ice as I ever saw and
+good tasting. Some of the brethren had broken some pieces off which
+floated and I ate some of it which tasted sweet and pleasant. The ice
+is said to be four inches thick. The water is very cold although the
+weather is warm. A quarter of a mile farther than the spring, there is
+a small lake or spring of alkali on the left of the road and a little
+farther, still another lake. The latter is more pleasant tasting than
+the other, not being so strong of sulphur. It tastes very much like
+lye water mixed with salt. The ground around these lakes is white with
+alkali or saleratus and a number of the brethren picked up their pails
+full but we have learned that it ought to be used with care, it being
+so much stronger than common saleratus, if the same quantity is used
+it makes the bread quite green. After traveling from the ice spring
+ten and a quarter miles over a very uneven road, we descended a very
+steep bluff close in the rear of one of the Missourian companies. The
+other had halted a few miles ahead and we passed by them. While winding
+around and descending from this bluff we came in sight of the river
+again and about the same time. Elder Kimball picked up an Indian arrow
+point made of flint stone and nearly perfect. It was almost as white
+as alabaster. At 3:30 we tarried a little south from the road and
+formed our encampment in a line so as to enclose a bend in the river,
+having traveled seventeen and three quarters miles without halting on
+account of there being no water fit for cattle to drink. The feed here
+is very good and plenty of willow bushes for fuel. The river is about
+three rods wide and clearer and very cool. The last five or six miles
+of the road were not so sandy but hard and good traveling. One of the
+Missourian companies have gone on, but the other camped a piece down
+the river at the fording place. A while before dark when the brethren
+were fetching up their teams, John Holman, while bringing up President
+Young's best horse, having his loaded rifle in his hand, the horse
+undertook to run back past him and to prevent his running back, he
+jammed his gun at him. The cock caught in his clothes, the gun went off
+lodging the ball in the animal's body. It entered a little forward of
+the nigh hind leg on the under side of his belly making quite a large
+hole. The horse walked to camp but it is the opinion of many he cannot
+survive long. He appears to be in great pain, the sweat falling from
+his forehead in large drops. President Young is evidently filled with
+deep sorrow on account of this accident but attaches no blame to John
+who seems grieved very much. The brethren generally feel sorrowful,
+this being the second horse shot by accident on this mission.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, June 25</h3>
+
+<p>President Young's horse is dead. The morning is fine but very cool. At
+twenty minutes to seven o'clock, we pursued our journey fording the
+river a quarter of a mile below where AVC left the road last night.
+We found it still nearly three feet deep and the current very swift.
+After proceeding a half a mile beyond the ford, we crossed a stream
+about a rod wide which appears to come from the northeast and empties
+into the river a little farther up. Half a mile beyond this stream, we
+turned from the river to the northwest and began to ascend a very high
+bluff which we found pretty steep and over a mile and a half to the
+top. The road then gradually bends around towards the river and begins
+to descend over hill and hollow and at four and a quarter miles from
+where we camped, strikes the river again and continues a quarter of a
+mile on its banks. Here would be a pretty good place to camp, there
+being sufficient grass for a large company. After traveling a quarter
+of a mile near the river we encountered another high sandy ridge, the
+road again winding to the north to cross it. The descent on the west
+side is very steep and unpleasant. We strike the river again after
+traveling one and a quarter miles from where we last left it, but it
+is the opinion of many that by fording the river twice at the foot of
+the ridge we could save a mile and they think it can be forded. Colonel
+Rockwood has paid particular attention to the place and reports that
+one hour's labor for 100 men would dig down the foot of the ridge so as
+to make it good passing and save rising the ridge and a mile's travel
+without fording the river. After leaving the west foot of this ridge,
+we crossed a stream about twenty-five feet wide and again a quarter of
+a mile farther the same, only about six feet wide. On examining it, we
+found it to be a branch of the river running around a piece of land
+about a quarter of a mile across and forming a semi-circular island.
+The last crossing was soft on both banks. The high sandy bluffs on
+each side the river seem to approach much nearer to each other and
+leave only a small strip of low land on each bank. At 11:20 passed
+a creek two feet wide and halted for noon having traveled eight and
+three quarters miles, the wind blowing very strong from the northwest
+and making it cold and unpleasant traveling and filling the wagons
+with dust. The latitude at this halt by Elder Pratt's observation
+is 42° 28' 36". At 1:20 we proceeded again, our road running on the
+river banks two miles then turning to the northwest and ascending a
+succession of hills one after another for three miles farther, winding
+around and over hill and valley in some places over a good hard road,
+and in other places over rocks and broken fragments of rock, making it
+severe on wagons and requiring great care in teamsters. About a half
+mile north of the road at the top of this ridge there is a heavy bank
+of snow which some of the brethren went to visit and amused themselves
+by snowballing each other. Brother Carrington says there is every
+appearance of a rich lead mine in the same place, he having examined
+the place minutely. The brethren brought some snow to the wagons and we
+ate some of it which tasted refreshing in the heat of the day. After
+arriving on the top of these ridges we began to descend gradually over
+rolling land, but the descent is not nearly equal to the ascent. At
+the distance of seven and a quarter miles from noon halt, we crossed
+a narrow wet swamp quite difficult for teams to get the loads over
+without help and one and a quarter miles beyond the swamp a creek a
+foot wide and a quarter of a mile farther still another one two feet
+wide. These all unite in one about 200 yards to the left below the
+middle creek and then appear to pass under a snow bank which at present
+forms a kind of bridge over the creek. At 6:45 we formed our encampment
+on the north banks of a creek about five feet wide, having traveled
+this afternoon eleven and a half miles and during the day twenty and a
+quarter. This creek is very clear and cold. Its banks are well lined
+with willows and about a mile below the camp there is a grove of white
+poplar in which house logs may be obtained sixteen feet long and a foot
+through. There are several banks of snow a little to the north and some
+of the brethren have found ice four or five inches thick and brought
+a quantity of it to camp. On the banks of the creek there are some
+groves of gooseberry bushes with small green berries on them. There are
+also some strawberry roots and flowers and a little white clover has
+been found, but there is yet no appearance of the great abundance of
+such things as travelers have represented. The land appears somewhat
+more likely to yield the nearer we approach to the mountains, but all
+calculations for farming in this region would be likely to fail on
+account of the scarcity of timber. It would only be natural to suppose
+that the nights are very cold here, while so much snow lies around. It
+requires considerable clothing to keep comfortable, but in the middle
+of the day it is equally hot. Some of the brethren have traveled up the
+banks of the Sweet Water river and represent it as tumbling and foaming
+over rocks and descending very rapidly on account of the great rise of
+the ground from noon halt to this place. They say it runs within a mile
+and a half south of this but it is probable it is only a branch of it
+as we are evidently not near the main branch yet. There is one of the
+gentile companies camped about a mile below, making the third company
+we have passed lately and it is the intention to keep ahead of them and
+have the advantage of the good feed and camping grounds.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, June 26</h3>
+
+<p>Morning very cold and considerable ice froze in the water pails during
+the night. At 7:40 we crossed the creek and pursued our journey. At one
+mile we passed a small creek which rises from springs a little south
+of the road where there is a small grove of small timber. Elder Pratt
+has gone ahead with the barometer to try to find the culminating point
+or highest dividing ridge of the South Pass as we are evidently at the
+east foot of the pass. Fremont represents that he did not discover the
+highest point on account of the ascent being so gradual that they were
+beyond it before they were aware of it, although in company with a man
+who has traveled it back and forth for seventeen years. At two and
+three-quarters miles beyond the last small creek, we crossed the branch
+of the Sweet Water about two rods wide and two feet deep, the water
+clear and cold. This would be a good camp ground were it not so cold,
+as it must be from the fact that large deep banks of snow are now lying
+on its banks both above and below the road. Where the snow doesn't lie,
+there is good grass and plenty of willow groves for fuel. Two and a
+quarter miles beyond this branch we crossed another stream about eight
+feet wide on an average, though where the ford is, it is nearly three
+rods wide and two feet deep. This water is also very clear and the
+banks well lined with willows and grass. It is considered a superior
+camping ground to the one back. There seem to be a great many antelope
+at the foot of the mountains which is about all the game to be seen.
+After crossing the last stream, we climb another high range of hills
+over a good road, gently rolling. From the top of this is a pleasant
+view of the surrounding country but all entirely destitute of timber
+except on and at the base of the mountains many miles distance from the
+road. We have also a good view of Table Rock to the southwest as well
+as the high, broken, white capped chain of the Wind River mountains on
+the north. At 12:40 we halted on the main branch of the Sweet Water
+having traveled eleven miles. The river here is about three rods wide,
+three feet deep and current very swift. The water is clear and cold as
+the snow which lies on its banks in places six or eight feet deep. This
+is a lovely place for a camp ground, there being abundance of good,
+rich grass about eight inches high and plenty of willows for fuel.
+Some of the boys and girls amused themselves by snowballing each other
+on one of the large snow banks a few rods below the camp. Soon after
+we halted Eric Glines came up, having left the brethren at the upper
+ferry on the Platte River on Wednesday morning. He camped one night
+alone, the other nights he camped with Missourians. He does not assign
+any reason why he followed us, but evidently considering to repent and
+obey council than to continue obstinate and rebellious. The weather is
+now warm and pleasant and but little wind. At 2:20 we moved onward,
+ascending again on pretty high land where we found good traveling. The
+latitude at our noon halt was 42° 22' 42". After traveling seven miles
+this afternoon we arrived on a level spot of lower land and some grass,
+and inasmuch as we have found no stream as laid down on Fremont's map
+since leaving the Sweet Water, neither is there much appearance of any
+for some miles farther, the wagons halted while President Young and
+some others went over the ridge to the north to look for a camp ground
+as some of the brethren said the Sweet Water was close by. President
+Young soon sent a message for the camp to proceed, leaving the road
+and taking a northwest course. At 6:45 we formed our encampment on the
+banks of the Sweet Water, at the distance of a little over a quarter
+of a mile from the road, having traveled this afternoon seven and a
+quarter miles, and during the day eighteen and a quarter. This is a
+good place to camp, there being plenty of grass and willows. There
+are many small pebbles of hard flint rock on the flat land a little
+back and some almost as clear as glass. Elders Kimball, Pratt and
+some others are some miles ahead and not having returned at dark, a
+number of the brethren were sent to meet them. They soon returned in
+company with Elder Kimball who reported that he had been on as much as
+six miles to where the head waters of the Atlantic divide from those
+of the Pacific--that Elder Pratt was camped there with a small
+party of men direct from Oregon and bound for the U. S. It is now
+a certainty that we are yet two miles short of the dividing ridge of
+the South Pass by the road. This ridge divides the headwaters of the
+Atlantic from those of the Pacific and although not the highest land
+we have traveled over, it may with propriety be said to be the summit
+of the South Pass. The Wind River mountains appear very high from this
+place but on the south there is very little appearance of mountains,
+Table Rock itself appearing but a little elevated.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, June 27</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine but cold. The ox teams started at five minutes to eight
+and the remainder shortly after. We soon met eight of the Oregon men
+on their way back having over twenty horses and mules with them mostly
+laden with packs of robes, skins, etc. Several of the brethren sent
+letters back by them. At two and three-quarters miles, arrived at the
+dividing ridge where Elder Pratt took a barometrical observation and
+found the altitude 7,085 feet above the level of the sea. This spot
+is 278½ miles from Fort John and is supposed to divide the Oregon
+and Indian Territory by a line running north and south. At two miles
+farther we arrived at where Elder Pratt camped last night on the head
+waters of the Green River and although the stream is small, we have
+the satisfaction of seeing the current run west instead of east. The
+face of the country west looks level except far in the distance where
+a range of mountains peers up, their surface white with snow. There
+is good grass here but no timber nor in fact any in sight except on
+the mountains. Since leaving the pass we have descended considerably,
+winding around and between high bluffs or hills, but the road is good.
+One of the Oregon men is returning with us today and then intends to
+wait for the next companies, etc., and act as a pilot for them. His
+name is Harris and he appears to be extensively known in Oregon and
+the subject of much dispute on account of his having found out a new
+route to Oregon much south of the old one. He appears to be a man of
+intelligence and well acquainted with the western country. He presented
+a file of the Oregon papers commencing with February 11, 1847, and five
+following numbers for our perusal during the day. He also presented
+a number of the California Star published at Yerba Buena by Samuel
+Brannan and edited by E. P. Jones. I had the privilege of perusing
+several of these papers during the day but found little interesting
+news. Mr. Harris says he is well acquainted with the Bear River valley
+and the region around the salt lake. From his description, which is
+very discouraging, we have little chance to hope for even a moderately
+good country anywhere in those regions. He speaks of the whole region
+as being sandy and destitute of timber and vegetation except the wild
+sage. He gives the most favorable account of a small region under the
+Bear River mountains called the Cache Valley where they have practiced
+caching their robes, etc., to hide them from the Indians. He represents
+this as being a fine place to winter cattle. After halting some time
+we proceeded onward and crossed the stream which is about three feet
+wide, then halted on its banks at twelve o'clock, having traveled six
+and a quarter miles, the day warm. The latitude at this halt was 42°
+18' 58". At 2:25 we started again and proceeded over gently rolling
+land and good hard road till 6:40 when we formed our encampment on the
+west banks of the Dry Sandy, having traveled this afternoon nine miles
+and during the day fifteen and a quarter. The country west for many
+miles appears destitute of timber and the view is very extensive. There
+is very little grass to be seen anywhere and not much near this creek.
+There is but little water in the creek at first sight, but by digging
+and tramping on the quick sand, sufficient can easily be obtained to
+supply a large company. Elder Kimball has been on the road nearly two
+miles farther but discovered no chance for a camping ground better
+than this. Mr. Harris has described a valley forty miles above the
+mouth of the Bear River, and thirty miles below the Bear Springs which
+might answer our purpose pretty well if the report is true. It is about
+thirty miles long and fifteen miles wide and tolerably well timbered.
+We generally feel that we shall know best by going ourselves for the
+reports of travelers are so contradictory it is impossible to know
+which is the truth without going to prove it. It is three years today
+since our brethren Joseph and Hyrum were taken from us and it was the
+general feeling to spend the day in fasting and prayer but the gentile
+companies being close in our rear and feed scarce, it was considered
+necessary to keep ahead of them for the benefit of our teams, but many
+minds have reverted back to the scenes at Carthage jail, and it is a
+gratification that we have so far prospered in our endeavors to get
+from under the grasp of our enemies.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, June 28</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine but cool. Many of the brethren are trading with Mr. Harris
+for pants, jackets, shirts, etc., made of buckskins and also the skins
+themselves. He sells them high. The skins at $1.50 and $2.00; a pair
+of pants $3.00, etc. He will take rifles, powder, lead, caps or calico
+and domestic shirts in exchange but puts his own price on both sides
+and it is difficult to obtain even a fair trade. At half past seven we
+proceeded on our journey, Mr. Harris waiting for the other companies.
+After traveling six miles the road forks, one continuing a west course,
+the other taking a southwest course. We took the left hand road which
+leads to California. This junction of the road is 297½ miles from Fort
+John. We then continued to travel over a desert land yielding nothing
+but wild sage and occasionally a grass root and weeds until 1:30 when
+we arrived and halted for noon on the banks of the Little Sandy,
+having traveled thirteen and a half miles without signs of wood, water
+or feed for our teams. This stream is about twenty feet wide on an
+average but at the fording place over three rods, two and a half feet
+deep, muddy water and swift current. There is not much grass and no
+timber except willow bushes. There is a variety of roots bearing very
+handsome colored flowers. One of the brethren has picked up a large
+piece of petrified wood. It resembles the outside layer of a cottonwood
+tree next to the bark, and appears to have rotted and broken off short
+then petrified and turned to a solid, heavy, hard, flint stone, but
+retaining its original shape and appearance. At 4:15 we commenced
+fording the river and found it in no way difficult until a number of
+the wagons had gotten over and the banks began to be soft and muddy.
+Several of the latter teams required help. At 4:45 all were safely
+over with no loss except two tar buckets considered to be of no worth.
+We then proceeded on, expecting to go about eight miles farther, but
+after traveling a little over a mile we were met by Elder G. A.
+Smith who introduced us to Mr. Bridger of Bridger's Fort on his way to
+Fort John in company with two of his men. Mr. Bridger being informed
+that we had designed to call at his place to make some inquiries
+about the country, etc., he said if we would turn off the road here
+and camp, he would stay with us till morning. A camping place being
+selected we turned off from the road about a quarter of a mile and
+formed our encampment near the Sandy at six o'clock, having traveled
+this afternoon one and three-quarters miles, exclusive of allowance
+for leaving the road, and during the day fifteen and a quarter miles.
+We have pretty good feed here, enough to fill the teams well. A while
+after we camped, the twelve and several others went to Mr. Bridger to
+make some inquiries concerning our future route, the country, etc. It
+was impossible to form a correct idea of either from the very imperfect
+and irregular way he gave his descriptions, but the general items are
+in substance as follows:</p>
+
+<p>We will find better grass as we proceed farther on. His business is to
+Fort Laramie. His traders have gone there with robes, skins, etc., to
+fill a contract, but having started later than they intended the men at
+Laramie have taken advantage of the delay and he is going to see to the
+business himself. There is no blacksmith shop at his fort at present.
+There was one but it was destroyed. There have been nearly a hundred
+wagons gone on the Hastings route through Weber's Fork. They cross the
+Blacks Fork and go a little south of west from his place and pass below
+the mountains which cross Green river. The Green river runs over an
+extent of country of 400 miles. It is impossible for wagons to follow
+down Green river, neither can it be followed with boats. Some have gone
+down with canoes, but had great difficulty getting back on account of
+the rapid current and rough channel. Cannot pass the mountains close
+to the river even with horses. For some distance beyond this chain of
+mountains, the country is level and beyond that it is hard black rock
+which looks as if it were glazed when the sun shines on it, and so
+hard and sharp it will cut a horse's feet to pieces. When we get below
+the mountains, the Green River falls into a level country for some
+distance after which it winds through a mountainous country perfectly
+barren to the Gulf of California. From Bridger's fort to the salt lake,
+Hastings said was about one hundred miles. He has been through fifty
+times but can form no correct idea of the distance. Mr. Hastings' route
+leaves the Oregon route at his place. We can pass the mountains farther
+south, but in some places we would meet with heavy bodies of timber
+and would have to cut our way through. In the Bear River valley there
+is oak timber, sugar trees, cottonwood, pine and maple. There is not
+an abundance of sugar maple but plenty of as splendid pine as he ever
+saw. There is no timber on the Utah Lake only on the streams which
+empty into it. In the outlet of the Utah Lake which runs into the salt
+lake there is an abundance of blue grass and red and white clover. The
+outlet of the Utah Lake does not form a large river, neither a rapid
+current but the water is muddy and low banks. Some of his men have been
+around the salt lake in canoes. They went out hunting and had their
+horses stolen by the Indians. They then went around the lake in canoes
+hunting beaver and were three months going around it. They said it
+was 550 miles around it. The Utah tribe of Indians inhabit the region
+around the Utah Lake and are a bad people. If they catch a man alone
+they are sure to rob and abuse him if they don't kill him, but parties
+of men are in no danger. They are mostly armed with guns. There was
+a man opened a farm in the Bear River valley. The soil is good and
+likely to produce corn were it not for the excessive cold nights which
+he thinks would prevent the growth of corn. There is a good country
+south of the Utah Lake or southeast of the great basin. There are three
+large rivers which enter into the Sevier Lake unknown to travelers.
+There is also a splendid range of country on the north side of the
+California mountains calculated to produce every kind of grain and
+fruit and there are several places where a man might pass from it over
+the mountains to the California settlements in one day. There is a vast
+abundance of timber and plenty of coal. There is also plenty of coal
+in this region near the mountains. North of the California mountains
+there is walnut, oak, ash, hickory, and various kinds of good timber on
+and in the neighborhood of the mountains and streams southeast of the
+great basin. There can be a wagon road made through to it and no lack
+of water. The great desert extends from the salt lake to the Gulf of
+California which is perfectly barren. He supposes it to have been an
+arm of the sea. The three rivers before mentioned are southwest of the
+desert. There is a tribe of Indians in that country who are unknown to
+either travelers or geographers. They make farms and raise abundance
+of grain of various kinds. He can buy any quantity of the very best of
+wheat there. This country lies southeast of the salt lake. There is one
+mountain in that region and the country adjoining in which he considers
+if ever there was a promised land, that must be it. There is a kind of
+cedar grows on it which bears fruit something like juniper berries of
+a yellow color about the size of an ordinary plum. The Indians grind
+the fruit and it makes the best kind of meal. He could easily gather a
+hundred bushels off one tree. He has lived on this fruit and used to
+pick his hat full in a very short time. There are a great many little
+streams head in this mountain and many good springs. It is about twenty
+days' travel with horses from the salt lake, but the country to it is
+bad to get through and over a great part of it, nothing for animals to
+subsist on. He supposes there might be access to it from Texas. On one
+of the rivers there is a splendid copper mine, a whole mountain of it.
+It also abounds in gold, silver and has a good quick silver mine. There
+is iron, coal, etc. The land is good; the soil rich. All the valleys
+abound with persimmons and grapes which will make the best kind of
+wines. He never saw any grapes on the Utah Lake, but there are plenty
+of cherries and berries of several kinds. He thinks the Utah Lake is
+the best country in the vicinity of the Salt Lake and the country is
+still better the farther south we go until we meet the desert which
+is upwards of 200 miles south from the Utah Lake. There is plenty of
+timber on all the streams and mountains and abundance of fish in the
+streams. There is timber all around the Utah Lake and plenty of good
+grass; not much of the wild sage only in small patches. Wild flax
+grows in most of the valleys and they are the richest lands. He passed
+through that country a year ago last summer in the month of July, and
+they generally had one or two showers every day, sometimes a very
+heavy thunder shower but not accompanied by strong wind. By following
+under the mountain south of the Utah Lake we find another river which
+enters into another lake about fifty miles south of the Utah Lake. We
+shall find plenty of water from here to Bridger's Fort except after
+we cross Green River and travel five miles beyond it where we shall
+have to travel eighteen or twenty miles without water, but there is
+plenty of grass. After crossing Green River we follow down it four or
+five miles to the old station then cross over to a stream which heads
+in the mountains west. The station is more than half way from here to
+his place. We shall have no streams to ferry between here and the fort
+except Green River. The Indians south of the Utah Lake and this side
+the desert raise corn, wheat and other kinds of grain and produce in
+abundance. The Utah's abound more on the west of the mountains near the
+salt lake than on the east side, ten to one, but we have no need to
+fear them for we can drive the whole of them in twenty-four hours but
+he would not kill them, he would make slaves of them. The Indians south
+of the Utah Lake raise as good corn, wheat, and pumpkins as were ever
+raised in old Kentucky. He knows of a lead mine between the mountains
+and Laramie on a timbered creek near the Horseshoe creek. He has found
+lead there and thinks there is considerable silver in it. It can be
+found in a cave on the side of the mountain not far from the road.</p>
+
+<p>Such was the information we obtained from Mr. Bridger, but we shall
+know more about things and have a better understanding when we have
+seen the country ourselves. Supper had been provided for Mr. Bridger
+and his men and the latter having eaten, the council dismissed, Mr.
+Bridger going with President Young to supper, the remainder retiring to
+their wagons conversing over the subject touched upon. The evening was
+very fine but mosquitoes numerous.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, June 29</h3>
+
+<p>Morning very pleasant till the sun got up a little, then it was very
+hot. We started at 7:40 and traveled over very good roads through
+barren land till 10:45 then halted for noon on the banks of the Big
+Sandy, having traveled six and three-quarters miles. The second
+division have passed over the river but the first division halted on
+the north side. This stream appears to be about seven rods wide at this
+place and about two feet deep in the channel, but it is not generally
+so wide, but deeper. There is some timber on its banks and plenty
+of grass in places for teams. At 1:30 we again proceeded, President
+Young and some others going ahead in the cutter wagon to look out a
+camp ground for the night. Our course still lies about southwest, the
+road generally good over gently rolling, hard, sandy land and in some
+places the surface is covered with loose fragments of hard rock. After
+traveling nine and a half miles President Young rode up and reported
+that we would have to go at least six miles farther before we could
+get feed. It was then a quarter after six, but the teamsters spurred
+up in order to get through. Most of the road after this for four miles
+was very hilly and uneven and in places the loose fragments of rocks
+made it very bad traveling, but many were thrown from the road by the
+spare men. The weather grew cooler towards evening, some large clouds
+rising in the west which favored the teams considerably. At 9:05 we
+found ourselves on the lowlands on the banks of the river again and
+formed our encampment, having traveled since noon seventeen miles and
+during the day twenty-three and three-quarters, which is the greatest
+day's journey we have made since leaving Winter Quarters. The camp was
+formed by moonlight. There seems to be plenty of feed for teams but
+no wood for fuel. Many of the brethren have gone down sick within the
+past three days and a number more this evening. They generally begin
+with headache, succeeded by violent fever, and some go delirious for
+a while. Brother Fowler was seized this afternoon and this evening is
+raving. It is supposed by some that this sickness is caused by the use
+of the mineral saleratus or alkali picked up on the lakes and surface
+of the land and it is considered poisonous. Some consider also that we
+inhale the effluvium arising from it, which has the like effect. It
+appears to be an article which ought to be used with great care if used
+at all. There has been no case considered dangerous yet, nor any of
+long duration.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, June 30</h3>
+
+<p>Morning hot. We resumed our journey at 8:15, several others of the
+brethren being reported sick. President Young, Kimball and others rode
+ahead again. We found the roads very good but sandy and filling the
+wagons with dust. At 11:30 we arrived on the banks of Green River,
+having traveled eight miles and formed our encampment in a line under
+the shade of the cottonwood timber. This river is about sixteen to
+eighteen rods wide and altogether too deep to be forded. Its banks
+are well lined with cottonwood but none large enough to make a canoe.
+There are also many patches of wild apple trees, and rose bushes
+abound bearing pretty roses. This river is 338½ miles from Fort John
+or Laramie. There is a narrow strip of land which might answer for
+farming on each bank of the river. The grass grows good and plentiful
+but still not so much as has been represented. After dinner the
+brethren commenced making two rafts, one for each division, and a while
+afterwards Elder Samuel Brannan arrived, having come from the Pacific
+to meet us, obtain council, etc. He is accompanied by Smith of the
+firm of Jackson Heaton &amp; Bonney, bogus snakers of Nauvoo. There
+is another young man in company with them. They have come by way of
+Fort Hall and brought with them several files of the California Star.
+They had eleven deaths on board their ship during their voyage over,
+the others I understand are doing well, raising grain, etc. Towards
+evening a storm blew up from the west and although we had no rain we
+had tremendous wind. The first division finished their raft before
+dark. There is a slough a little down the river where some of the
+brethren have caught some very nice fish, but the mosquitoes are so
+very troublesome it is difficult abiding out of doors.</p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-13>July 1847</h2>
+
+<h3>Thursday, July 1</h3>
+
+<p>This morning found myself laboring under a severe attack of the fever,
+accompanied with violent aching in my head and limbs. The brethren
+commenced ferrying but got only fourteen wagons over on account of the
+very high wind.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, July 2</h3>
+
+<p>The day was more pleasant and the ferrying continued more rapidly. I
+got over the river before noon but remained very sick. Afternoon the
+twelve had a council and decided to send three or four men back to
+serve as guides to the next company.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, July 3</h3>
+
+<p>The morning more unfavorable. The brethren got the last wagon over
+before noon, no accident having happened, and about the time they
+finished it commenced raining, accompanied by thunder and wind. It was
+concluded for some of the brethren to go on and look out a camp ground
+a few miles ahead so as to shorten the distance of the next day's
+travel. The brethren returned about noon and gave orders to harness up
+and proceed, and at 3:15 we moved forward and went on three miles, then
+formed encampment in the midst of an army of mosquitoes. These insects
+are more numerous here than I ever saw them anywhere, everything was
+covered with them, making the teams restive in the wagons. There
+is plenty of grass for teams and it is the intention to tarry here
+till Monday morning. At night President Young gave the brethren some
+instructions about trading at Fort Bridger and advised them to be wise,
+etc. Five men were selected to go back and meet the next company, viz.,
+Phineas Young, George Woodard, Aaron Farr, Eric Glines and Rodney
+Badger. They are to take the cutter wagon instead of each taking a
+horse which cannot be spared by the camp.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, July 4</h3>
+
+<p>The morning fine and warm. The five brethren have started back to meet
+the other company. President Young, Kimball and others went back with
+them to ferry them over Green River. Some of the brethren assembled
+for meeting in the circle. At 2:30 p.m. the brethren returned from the
+ferry accompanied by twelve of the Pueblo brethren from the army. They
+have got their discharge and by riding hard overtaken us. They feel
+well and on arriving in camp gave three cheers, after which President
+Young moved that we give glory to God which was done by hosannas.
+William Walker was with them but has gone back with the five brethren
+to meet his wife. The spot where we are now camped is opposite to
+the junction of the Big Sandy and Green River. On the other side the
+river there is a range of singular sandy buttes perfectly destitute
+of vegetation, and on the sides can be seen from here, two caves
+which are probably inhabited by wild bears. The view is pleasant and
+interesting. During the afternoon one of Brother Crow's oxen was found
+to be poisoned through eating some kind of a weed and was much swollen.
+I understand it was dead when they found it.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, July 5</h3>
+
+<p>At eight o'clock we pursued our journey, many of the brethren still
+being sick though generally improving. After traveling three and a
+half miles on the bank of the river the road then leaves it bending
+westward. We have now a very pleasant view of the Bear River mountains
+far to the southwest, their summits capped with snow. We found the land
+somewhat rolling, destitute of grass and several very steep places of
+descent. At 4:45 we arrived on the banks of Blacks Fork and formed
+our encampment, having traveled twenty miles, the last sixteen and a
+half without sight of water. This stream is about six rods wide, very
+swift current but not deep. The bottoms on each side are very pleasant
+but not much grass for teams. There is one place in the road where we
+might have saved a crook of nearly a mile by digging down bank which
+would probably have detained us about twenty minutes, but it was not
+discovered till most of the wagons had passed over.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, July 6</h3>
+
+<p>Morning very pleasant. We started on our journey at 7:50 and after
+traveling three and three-quarters miles, crossed Hams Fork, a rapid
+stream about three rods wide and two feet deep; and this would be a
+good place to camp, there being an abundance of high bunch grass on
+the banks. One and a half miles farther we crossed Blacks Fork which
+appears to be about eight rods wide and two and a half feet deep, but
+little grass near it. We then leave the river and wind over uneven
+road with many pitches caused by heavy rains washing the land, which
+is generally barren. After traveling eleven miles beyond the last
+stream, crossed a small creek about two feet wide but no grass. At four
+o'clock we crossed back over Blacks Fork and formed our encampment on
+its banks, having traveled eighteen and a quarter miles. At this place
+there is a fine specimen of the wild flax which grows all around. It
+is considered equal to any cultivated, bears a delicate blue flower.
+There is also an abundance of the rich bunch grass in the neighborhood
+of the river back and many wild currants. The prairies are lined with
+beautiful flowers of various colors--chiefly blue, red and yellow,
+which have a rich appearance and would serve to adorn and beautify an
+eastern flower garden.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, July 7</h3>
+
+<p>This morning we proceeded at 7:35 and after traveling two and a half
+miles, forded Black's Fork once more. Here also is abundance of
+good grass, wild flax and handsome flowers. After traveling two and
+three-quarters miles farther, forded a stream about two rods wide and
+two feet deep, very swift current, also lined on its banks with bunch
+grass. At twelve o'clock we halted for noon on the banks of the last
+stream, having traveled nine miles over pretty rough road. The day
+very windy and filling the wagons with dust. Some of the wagons have
+gone on expecting to reach Bridger's Fort before they halt. At 1:40
+we moved forward and found the road more even, though in many places
+rendered bad by the cobble stones. After traveling seven and a half
+miles we arrived opposite to nine Indian lodges erected on the south
+of the road. Here we halted a while and found Tim Goodale here, one
+of the trappers who passed us at the Platte ferry. There are not many
+Indians here but they appear to have a great many handsome ponies. We
+then continued on and after fording four creeks on an average about a
+rod wide, we arrived at Fort Bridger which is proved by the roadometer
+to be 397 miles from Fort John. We went half a mile beyond the fort
+and formed our encampment after crossing three more creeks, having
+traveled this afternoon eight and three-quarters miles and during the
+day seventeen and three-quarters. The grass is very plentiful in this
+neighborhood and much higher than we have generally seen it. The whole
+region seems filled with rapid streams all bending their way to the
+principal fork. They doubtless originate from the melting of the snow
+on the mountains and roar down their cobbly beds till they join Black's
+Fork. Bridger's Fort is composed of two double log houses about forty
+feet long each and joined by a pen for horses about ten feet high
+constructed by placing poles upright in the ground close together,
+which is all the appearance of a fort in sight. There are several
+Indian lodges close by and a full crop of young children playing around
+the door. These Indians are said to be of the Snake tribe, the Utahs
+inhabiting beyond the mountains. The latitude of Fort Bridget is 41°
+19' 13" and its height above the level of the sea according to Elder
+Pratt's observations is 6,665 feet. It is doubtless a very cold region
+and little calculated for farming purposes. To the west is a pretty
+high mountain which appears well covered with timber. The country all
+around looks bleak and cold.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, July 8</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine but high wind. It is concluded to stay a day here to
+set some wagon tires, etc. Many have gone to trade their rifles and
+some clothing for buckskins. H. Egan traded two rifles and got twenty
+pretty good skins for them. The day continued warm with high wind.
+Evening there was a council and some complaints listened to from George
+Mills against Andrew Gibbons. It was decided for Thomas Williams and
+S. Brannan to return from here and meet Captain Brown's company from
+Pueblo. Inasmuch as the brethren have not received their discharge nor
+their paw from the United States, Brother Brannan goes to tender his
+services as pilot to conduct a company of fifteen or twenty to San
+Francisco if they feel disposed to go there and try to get their pay.
+Williams came clothed with authority to arrest Tim Goodale or one of
+his men for stealing a horse at Pueblo, but he can get no encouragement
+from President Young to make the attempt.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, July 9</h3>
+
+<p>We started at eight o'clock, the brethren who go back bidding good
+bye to the camp and proceeding on their back journey while we moved
+westward over pretty rough roads. After traveling six and a quarter
+miles, we arrived at the springs and halted a while to rest our teams.
+We then proceeded on three-quarters of a mile and began to ascend
+a long steep hill, near the top of which and eight miles from Fort
+Bridger, Elder Pratt took an observation and found the latitude 41° 16'
+11". Arriving on the top we found the table tolerably level for several
+miles then began to descend to the bottom again. The descent from this
+hill is the steepest and most difficult we have ever met with, being
+long and almost perpendicular. At three o'clock we crossed the Muddy
+Fork, a stream about twelve feet wide, and formed our encampment on the
+west bank, having traveled since the halt six and three-quarters miles
+and during the day thirteen. Here is plenty of tall bunch grass and
+a pretty good chance for our teams. The day has been windy, warm and
+dusty.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, July 10</h3>
+
+<p>Started this morning at eight o'clock, weather warm with tolerably
+high wind. After traveling three and a half miles we passed a small
+copperas spring at the foot of a mountain a little to the left of
+the road. The water is very clear but tastes very strong of copperas
+and alum and has a somewhat singular effect on the mouth. It runs a
+little distance over the red sand which abounds in this region and
+where it is saturated with water almost looks like blood at a little
+distance. After passing this spring the road winds around the foot of
+mountains gradually ascending for some distance till finally arriving
+on the summit of a high ridge. Here Elder Pratt took a barometrical
+observation and found the height to be 7,315 feet above the level of
+the sea. On arriving at the west side of the ridge two and a half miles
+from the last mentioned spring we found a very steep, rough place to
+descend and found it necessary to halt and fix the road. About half
+way down there is a place over huge rocks, leaving barely enough room
+for a wagon to get down, but by labor it was soon made passable. A
+little farther, the brethren had to dig a place considerably to make a
+pass between the mountains. President Young and Kimball labored hard
+with a number of others and in about a half an hour made a good road.
+At twenty miles from Fort Bridger, passed another spring and a little
+farther after arriving on the bottom land, the road turns nearly south
+through a beautiful low bottom filled with grass. At 1:45 we halted
+for noon, having traveled nine miles. Latitude 41° 14' 21". After
+halting an hour and a half we proceeded again and after traveling
+three and a half miles began to ascend the dividing ridge between the
+Colorado waters and the great basin. This mountain is very high and
+the ascent steep, rendering it necessary to make a crooked road to
+gain the summit. The height is 7,700 feet according to Elder Pratt's
+observations. The surface at the top is narrow. Here three bears were
+seen to run over a still higher mountain on the left. The descent was
+very steep, having to lock the wagons for half a mile. We then descend
+and travel on the bottom a few miles between high rugged mountains
+till the road seems suddenly to be shut up by a high mountain ahead.
+The road here turns suddenly to the left and goes east about 200 yards
+then winds again southwest. After ascending and descending another high
+ridge, we crossed a small creek about ten feet wide and at 7:45 formed
+our encampment on the southwest banks, having traveled this afternoon
+nine miles and during the day eighteen over the most mountainous course
+we have yet seen. After camping, Mr. Miles Goodyear came into camp. He
+is the man who is making a farm in the Bear River valley. He says it
+is yet seventy-five miles to his place, although we are now within two
+miles of Bear River. His report of the valley is more favorable than
+some we have heard but we have an idea he is anxious to have us make
+a road to his place through selfish motives. Elder Pratt has found a
+beautiful spring of clear, sweet, cold water about a hundred yards
+southwest from the camp. Water excellent.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, July 11</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine with ice a quarter of an inch thick on the water pails.
+Walked on the mountain east with President Young and Kimball, from
+whence we had a pleasing view of the surrounding valley which is
+about ten miles wide. Abundance of timber on the mountains south
+and southwest and beyond that plenty of snow. After having prayers,
+we again descended and at the foot discovered a very strong sulphur
+spring. The surface of the water is covered with flour of sulphur and
+where it oozes from the rocks is perfectly black. The water in the
+creek shows sulphur very clearly and smells bad. During the day some of
+the brethren discovered an oil spring about a mile south. The substance
+which rises out of the ground resembles tar and is very oily. Some
+have oiled their gun stocks with it and oiled their shoes, others have
+gone to fill their tar buckets and are sanguine it will answer well to
+grease wagons. It is somewhat singular to find such a great contrast
+of substances within so short a distance. Here is pure water, sulphur,
+and oily tar within a mile of each other, and matter of curiosity all
+around for the contemplation of the curious. Porter, Brother Little
+and others have been out with Goodyear to view the route he wishes us
+to take. They represent it as being bad enough, but we are satisfied
+it leads too far out of our course to be tempted to try it. There are
+some in camp who are getting discouraged about the looks of the country
+but thinking minds are not much disappointed, and we have no doubt of
+finding a place where the Saints can live which is all we ought to
+ask or expect. It is evident the country grows better as we proceed
+west, and vegetation is more plentiful and looks richer. After dark, a
+meeting was called to decide which of the two roads we shall take from
+here. It was voted to take the right hand or northern road, but the
+private feelings of all the twelve were that the other would be better.
+But such matters are left to the choice of the camp so that none may
+have room to murmur at the twelve hereafter.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, July 12</h3>
+
+<p>Morning cloudy and cool. We pursued our journey at 7:15. At one and a
+quarter miles rose a very steep, low hill, narrow but very steep on
+both sides. One half a mile farther crossed the Bear River, a very
+rapid stream about six rods wide and two feet deep, bottom full of
+large cobble stones, water clear, banks lined with willows and a little
+timber, good grass, many strawberry vines and the soil looks pretty
+good. About a half a mile beyond the ford, proceeded over another ridge
+and again descended into and traveled up a beautiful narrow bottom
+covered with grass and fertile but no timber. Four and three-quarters
+of a mile beyond Bear River, passed a small spring of good clear
+cold water. At 11:50 halted for noon in the same narrow bottom near
+a ridge of high, rough rocks to the right, having traveled nine and
+three-quarters miles. There is scarcely any wagon track to be seen,
+only a few wagons of Hasting's company having come this route; the
+balance went the other road and many of them perished in the snow; it
+being late in the season and much time was lost quarreling who would
+improve the roads, etc. There is a creek of clear water close by, deep
+but scarcely any current. President Young was taken very sick awhile
+before we halted. After resting two hours the camp moved on again,
+except President Young and Kimball's wagons, who concluded to remain
+there today on account of the President's sickness. After traveling one
+and a half miles we crossed the creek at the foot of a high mountain
+and a little farther crossed back again. A mile farther, began to
+ascend a long steep hill, narrow on the summit and steep descent. We
+then wound around between high hills till arriving again on a narrow
+rich bottom. At the foot of the hill we crossed last, there is a spring
+of very good cold water, and in fact, there are many good springs all
+along the road. At six o'clock we formed our encampment near a very
+small creek and a good spring, having traveled this afternoon six and
+three-quarters miles and during the day sixteen and a half. There is an
+abundance of grass here and the country appears to grow still richer as
+we proceed west, but very mountainous. There are many antelope on these
+mountains and the country is lovely enough but destitute of timber.
+About a quarter of a mile west from the camp is a cave in the rock
+about thirty feet long, fifteen feet wide and from four to six feet
+high. There are many martins at the entrance and on observing closely,
+can be seen myriads of small bugs. It is supposed from appearances that
+there is some property cached in the cave. Soon after we camped, we had
+a light shower accompanied by thunder. This country evidently lacks
+rain, even the grass appears parched.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, July 13</h3>
+
+<p>Awhile before noon, Elder Kimball and Howard Egan arrived from the
+company back. A meeting was called but suddenly dispersed by a thunder
+shower. After the rain ceased, Elder Kimball proposed that a company
+start from the camp with Elder Pratt to proceed to the Weber River
+canyon and ascertain if we can pass through safely, if not, to try and
+find a pass over the mountains. He reported that President Young is a
+little better this morning, but last evening was insensible and raving.
+Colonel Rockwood is also very sick and quite deranged. A company of
+twenty-two wagons, mostly ox teams, started on soon after dinner, in
+company with Elder Pratt, and soon after, Elders Kimball and Egan
+returned to the back company. The day has been very hot and sultry, and
+mosquitoes are very troublesome.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, July 14</h3>
+
+<p>The day has been very hot, with occasionally a light breeze. Several
+of the brethren have been out hunting, and brought in several antelope
+which appear to abound in this region. Brothers Woodruff and Barnabas
+Adams went back to the other wagons this morning. They returned at
+night and reported that President Young is considerably better, but
+Brother Rockwood remains very sick. There are one or two new cases of
+sickness in our camp, mostly with fever which is very severe on the
+first attack, generally rendering its victims delirious for some hours,
+and then leaving them in a languid, weakly condition. It appears that a
+good dose of pills or medicine is good to break the fever. The patient
+then needs some kind of stimulant to brace his nerves and guard him
+against another attack. I am satisfied that diluted spirits is good in
+this disease after breaking up the fever. At night had a light shower.
+The following is a list of the names of those who are gone on to look
+out and make a road, etc., viz.: Orson Pratt, commander of company,
+O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding, Stephen Markham, Nathaniel
+Fairbanks, Joseph Egbert, John S. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, Robert
+Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, John Crow, Walter H. Crow, Walter Crow, George
+W. Therlkill, James Chesney, Jewis B. Myers, John Brown, Shadrack
+Roundy, Hans C. Hanson, Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, David Powell, Oscar
+Crosby, Hark Lay, Joseph Mathews, Gilbert Summe, Green Flake, John
+S. Gleason, Charles Burke, Norman Taylor, A. P. Chesley, Seth
+Taft, Horace Thornton, Stephen Kelsey, James Stewart, Robert Thomas,
+C. D. Barnham, John S. Eldridge, Elijah Newman, Francis Boggs,
+Levi N. Kendall, David Grant. First division: seven wagons, fifteen
+men; second division: sixteen wagons, twenty-seven men besides Crow's
+family of women and children. Total, twenty-three wagons and forty-two
+men.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, July 15</h3>
+
+<p>Morning pleasant but cloudy. At twelve o'clock President Young, Kimball
+and all the rear wagons arrived, eight in number. The President is much
+better. Brother Rockwood is considerably better. Orders were given for
+this company to harness up, and during the time till we started onward
+at half-past one we had a very refreshing shower. After traveling two
+miles we passed another spring of good water at the foot of a high hill
+a little to the right of the road. At half-past three we formed our
+encampment at the foot of some high red bluffs, having traveled four
+and a half miles, and enjoyed two more pleasant showers. Feed here good
+and a beautiful spring of good, clear, cold water a little to the left
+of the road. The evening fine and pleasant.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, July 16</h3>
+
+<p>This morning we have had two pleasant showers accompanied by pretty
+loud thunder. At 8:45, we proceeded onward, passing through a narrow
+ravine between very high mountains. After traveling one and a quarter
+miles passed a deep ravine, where most of the teams had to double to
+get up. One-half mile farther, crossed the creek and found the crossing
+place very bad. Harvey Pierce broke his wagon reach and bolster. The
+wagon had to be unloaded, but with little delay was soon repaired,
+during which time a number of the brethren fixed a new place to cross
+the creek. After passing this place, following the course of the
+creek, the mountains seem to increase in height, and come so near
+together in some places as to leave merely room enough for a crooked
+road. At half past twelve we halted to feed, having traveled six and
+three-quarters miles and are yet surrounded by high mountains. As we
+halted, O. P. Rockwell came up from Elder Pratt's company. He
+reports that it is about twenty-five or thirty miles to the canyon.
+They have found the road leading over the mountains to avoid the canyon
+and expect to be on top today at noon. The day is pleasant with a nice
+breeze. Grass plentiful and pretty high, but no timber yet, except
+small cedar on the sides of the mountains. Numerous springs of clear
+water all along the base of the mountains. During the halt two of the
+brethren went to the top of the mountain on the north of the camp. They
+looked like babes in size. At 1:40, we proceeded onward and found the
+pass between the mountains growing narrower, until it seemed strange
+that a road could ever have been made through. We crossed creek a
+number of times, and in several places found the crossing difficult.
+After proceeding a few miles, we saw patches of oak shrubbery though
+small in size. In the same place and for several miles there are many
+patches or groves of the wild currant, hop vines, alder and black
+birch. Willows are abundant and high. The currants are yet green and
+taste most like a gooseberry, thick rind and rather bitter. The hops
+are in blossom and seem likely to yield a good crop. The elder-berries,
+which are not very plentiful, are in bloom. In some places we had to
+pass close to the foot of high, perpendicular red mountains of rock
+supposed to be from six hundred to a thousand feet high. At a quarter
+to seven we formed our encampment, having traveled this afternoon nine
+and a half miles, and during the day sixteen and a quarter. We are yet
+enclosed by high mountains on each side, and this is the first good
+camping place we have seen since noon, not for lack of grass or water,
+but on account of the narrow gap between the mountains. Grass is pretty
+plentiful most of the distance and seems to grow higher the farther we
+go west. At this place the grass is about six feet high, and on the
+creek eight or ten feet high. There is one kind of grass which bears
+a head almost like wheat and grows pretty high, some of it six feet.
+There is a very singular echo in this ravine, the rattling of wagons
+resembles carpenters hammering at boards inside the highest rocks. The
+report of a rifle resembles a sharp crack of thunder and echoes from
+rock to rock for some time. The lowing of cattle and braying of mules
+seem to be answered beyond the mountains. Music, especially brass
+instruments, have a very pleasing effect and resemble a person standing
+inside the rock imitating every note. The echo, the high rocks on the
+north, high mountains on the south with the narrow ravine for a road,
+form a scenery at once romantic and more interesting than I have ever
+witnessed. Soon after we camped, I walked up the highest mountain on
+the south. The ascent is so steep that there is scarce a place to be
+found to place the foot flat and firm, and the visitor is every moment,
+if he makes the least slip or stumbles, in danger of being precipitated
+down to the bottom and once overbalanced, there is no possibility of
+stopping himself till he gets to the bottom, in which case he would
+doubtless be dashed to pieces. After resting about half a dozen times I
+arrived at the top and found the ascent equally steep all the way up.
+In many places I had to go on my hands and feet to keep from falling
+backwards. From this mountain I could see the fork of Weber River about
+a mile west of the camp; looking back I could see the road we had come
+for several miles, but in every other direction nothing but ranges of
+mountains still as much higher than the one I was on as it is above the
+creek. The scenery is truly wild and melancholy. After surveying the
+face of the country a little while, I began to descend and found the
+task much more difficult than ascending, but by using great care and
+taking time, I got down without accident a little before dark. Solomon
+Chamberlain broke his forward axle tree about two miles back. A wagon
+was unloaded and sent back to fetch him up. He is yet very sick.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, July 17</h3>
+
+<p>Arose to behold a fine pleasant morning, my health much better. This
+is my thirty-third birthday. My mind naturally reverts back to my
+family and my heart is filled with blessings on their heads more than
+my tongue is able to express. The richest blessings that ever were
+bestowed upon the head of woman or child could not be more than I
+desire for them, whatever be my lot. President Young is reported as
+having had a very sick night. A forge was set up and some repairs done
+to wagons and Brother Chamberlain's repaired also. The cattle and mules
+seem very uneasy and continue lowing and braying all the morning. I
+suppose it is in consequence of the singular echoes, they no doubt
+thinking they are answered by others over the mountains. At 9:40 the
+camp renewed the journey and one mile farther arrived at the Red fork
+of the Weber River. We also seem to have a wide space to travel through
+and now turn to the right in a western course, the ravine having run
+mostly southwest. The distance we have traveled through this narrow
+pass is twenty-three miles. Yesterday was the first day we have been
+out of sight of snow a whole day since we arrived at Fort John. We
+could not see it for the high mountains although surrounded by it. On
+arriving at this stream we see it again on the mountains to the east.
+This stream is about four rods wide, very clear water and apparently
+about three feet deep on an average. Its banks lined with cottonwood
+and birch and also dense patches of brush wood, willows, rose bushes,
+briers, etc. By stepping to the top of a small mound at the bend of
+the road, the mouth of the canyon can be seen very plainly, as also
+the mountains between which we pass to avoid it. The canyon appears
+to be about eight or ten miles west of us. I should judge not over
+that. President Young being so very sick found he could not endure
+to travel farther. Accordingly Elder Kimball and some others went
+to select a camping ground and soon returning reported a place a
+little farther. The camp moved on and formed encampment on the banks
+of the river having traveled two and a half miles, the day very hot
+and mosquitoes plentiful. Several of the brethren have caught some
+fine trout in this stream which appears to have many in it. In the
+afternoon Elders Kimball, Richards, Smith, Benson and others went onto
+a mountain to clothe and pray for President Young who continues very
+sick. On returning they rolled down many large rocks from the top of
+the mountain to witness the velocity of their descent, etc. Some would
+roll over half a mile and frequently break to pieces. John Nixon found
+and brought to camp a very singular kind of thistle which I have never
+seen before nor recollect of ever reading of the like. He found it on
+the low land near the camp and says there are many more like it. It is
+a great curiosity and worthy of description. The stem is about four
+feet long, about six inches wide and a quarter of an inch thick. It is
+formed of a double leaf or case and when broken is hollow, although
+the stem lies close together, perfectly flat. It is ornamented with
+prickles from bottom to top. These leaves are but sparsely scattered
+all along up the stem. The top is a kind of crown and bush formed by
+the same kind of prickly leaves and is about ten inches long by five
+inches broad, forming a very handsome head or crown. But the great
+curiosity of this thistle is a perfect resemblance of a snake coiled
+around the crown as though in the act of guarding it against foes.
+The head of the snake lies on the top of the crown at one end and is
+ornamented by a small bunch of flowers like common thistle flowers on
+the snake's head. At the extremity of the tail is a bunch of small
+burrs covered with prickles something resembling the rattles on a
+rattlesnake's tail. The body of the snake is formed of the same kind of
+substance as the thistle itself and has a very singular appearance. It
+seems that two of the great enemies of mankind have combined, the most
+bitter and destructive guarding the more innocent. The serpent tempted
+the woman causing her to sin, in consequence of which the earth was
+cursed and decreed to produce thorns and thistles, etc., but this is
+the first time I ever saw the snake guard the thistle. In the evening
+Elders Kimball, G. A. Smith and Howard Egan rode down the river
+to visit the canyon. They returned about ten o'clock and said they had
+been eight miles down the river but at that distance did not arrive at
+the canyon and being late they concluded to return to camp.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, July 18</h3>
+
+<p>This morning the camp was called together and addressed by Elder
+Kimball. He reports President Young as being a very sick man. He
+proposed to the brethren that instead of their scattering off, some
+hunting, some fishing, and some climbing mountains, etc., that they
+should meet together and pray and exhort each other that the Lord may
+turn away sickness from our midst and from our President that we may
+proceed on our journey. It was decided to assemble at ten o'clock
+and at the sound of the bugle the brethren met in a small grove of
+shrubbery which they have made for the purpose opposite the wagons.
+During the meeting, Elder Kimball proposed to the brethren that all
+the camp, except President Young's and eight or ten other wagons with
+brethren enough to take care of him, etc., proceed on tomorrow and go
+through, find a good place, begin to plant potatoes, etc., as we have
+little time to spare. The proposition was acceeded to by unanimous vote
+and after a number had expressed their feelings the meeting adjourned
+till two o'clock at which time they again assembled and listened to
+remarks from a number of the brethren. Elder Kimball again gave much
+good instruction and prophesied of good things concerning the camp. The
+bishops broke bread and the sacrament was administered. Good feelings
+seem to prevail and the brethren desire to do right. A number yet
+continue sick, but we expect all will soon recover. The day is very hot
+with very little air moving. Elder Kimball consented for me to go on
+tomorrow with the company that goes ahead.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, July 19</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine and warm, President Young considerably better. At 7:45 we
+started onward leaving President Young and Kimball's wagons and several
+others. We found the road very rough on account of loose rocks and
+cobble stones. After traveling two and a quarter miles, we forded the
+river and found it about eighteen inches deep but proceeded without
+difficulty. Soon after we were over, Elder Snow came up and said the
+camp were requested to halt awhile till Dr. Richards came. One of
+his oxen is missing and he wished to go on. We concluded to move on
+a little to where the road should turn off between the mountains to
+avoid the canyon. Elder Pratt went three miles out of his road and had
+to return again. Three-quarters of a mile from the ford we found the
+place to make the cutoff and there halted awhile. I put a guide board
+up at this place marked as follows: "Pratt's Pass to avoid canyon. To
+Fort Bridger 74¼ miles." Brother Pack, having charge of the company,
+concluded to move on slowly and be making our way up the mountains. We
+accordingly started and after traveling a mile from the forks began to
+ascend and wind around the mountains. We found the road exceedingly
+rough and crooked and very dangerous on wagons. Three and a half miles
+from the forks of the road the brethren made a bridge over a small
+creek over which we crossed having passed a number of springs near the
+road. Two and a quarter miles farther we arrived on the summit of the
+dividing ridge and put a guide board up, "80 miles to Fort Bridger."
+At this place Elders Kimball, Woodruff, G. A. Smith and H. Egan
+rode up to view the road, etc. The descent is not very steep but
+exceedingly dangerous to wagons being mostly on the side hill over
+large cobble stones, causing the wagons to slide very badly. After
+traveling a little way, G. A. Smith's wagon wheels gave way going
+down a steep pitch. The spokes are loose in the hub, and worked about
+so that when the wagon slides they dish inward, etc. At two o'clock, we
+halted beside a small creek to water teams, having traveled ten and a
+half miles over exceedingly rough road. A wagon was unloaded, and sent
+for G. A. Smith's loading which is reported to be two miles back.
+While they were gone, many turned out their teams to graze. At 3:30 the
+men returned with the wagons, putting the loading into several so as
+to proceed and at 3:35 we started forward, the road turning suddenly
+to the right for about three-quarters of a mile and then a southwest
+course again. Here we ascend a very long steep hill for nearly a mile,
+then descend by a very crooked road. I think a better road might be
+made here and this high hill avoided and save a mile's travel. After
+traveling a little over three miles, we crossed a creek about a rod
+wide and eighteen inches deep, pretty steep going down but good going
+out. We went on a little farther and at half past five camped on a
+small spot surrounded by willow bushes full of mosquitoes, having
+traveled this afternoon three and a quarter miles and during the day
+thirteen and three-quarters. The day has been hot and no wind. Teams
+sweat much and it has been a pretty hard day's travel. There is not
+much grass here, but is said to be more plentiful a little farther.
+Several accidents have happened to wagons today but nothing serious
+except Brother G. A. Smith's. Dr. Richards' wagons arrived in camp
+at the same time the rest did. The sick are getting better. In the
+evening the brethren picked up a lot of dry willows and made a coal
+pit to set G. A. Smith's tire before we can leave tomorrow. The
+evening and night were very cold.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, July 20</h3>
+
+<p>This morning fine and warm. The coal pit is burned and Burr Frost set
+Elder Smith's wagon tire and did various other repairs to a number of
+other wagons which took till nearly eleven o'clock, about which time
+the camp started onward. One of Brother Crow's men returned from Elder
+Pratt's company and reported that their camp is about nine miles from
+here. He is hunting stray cattle. He says the road is very rough from
+here and about a mile beyond where they are camped the road begins to
+ascend over a high range of mountains. Elder Pratt has been to the top
+but cannot see the Salt Lake from there. Their company is gone on. I
+walked ahead of the camp nearly four miles and picked many gooseberries
+nearly ripe. They are very plentiful on this bottom. The brethren spent
+much time cutting brush wood and improving the road. After traveling
+four miles, halted about half an hour to water teams and eat dinner.
+The road over which we have traveled is through an uneven gap between
+high mountains and is exceedingly rough and crooked. Not a place to
+be met with scarcely where there would be room to camp for the dense
+willow groves all along the bottom. We then proceeded on and traveled
+over the same kind of rough road till a little after 5:00 p.m. then
+camped on a ridge, having traveled today seven and a quarter miles. The
+last three miles has been the worst road of the two, it being through
+willow bushes over twenty feet high, also rose and gooseberry bushes
+and shaking poplar and birch timber. Although there has been a road
+cut through, it is yet scarcely possible to travel without tearing
+the wagon covers. We have crossed this creek which Elder Pratt names
+Canyon Creek eleven times during the day and the road is one of the
+most crooked I ever saw, many sharp turns in it and the willow stubs
+standing making it very severe on wagons. As we proceed up, the gap
+between the mountains seems to grow still narrower until arriving at
+this place where there is room to camp, but little grass for teams.
+There are many springs along the road but the water is not very good.
+In one place about a mile back there is a very bad swamp where the
+brethren spent some time cutting willows and laying them in to improve
+it. We have got along today without much damage which is somewhat
+favorable for the road is awful. At this place the ground around is
+represented as being swampy and dangerous for cattle. It is reported
+that there is no place to camp beyond this till where Elder Pratt's
+company camped and this is so small they have to huddle the wagons
+together. The soil continues sandy, except in the low moist places
+where it looks black and good. There is some pine occasionally in sight
+on the mountains, but timber here is scarce. We have passed through
+some small patches today where a few house logs might be cut, but this
+is truly a wild looking place.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, July 21</h3>
+
+<p>We started onward at half past six, the morning fine and pleasant.
+We crossed the creek once more and about a half a mile from where we
+camped, the road turns to the right leaving the creek and ascending
+the mountains gradually. Much time was necessarily spent cutting down
+stumps, heaving out rocks and leveling the road. It is an exceedingly
+rough place. There are several springs at the foot of the mountain and
+one a mile from the top which runs above the ground a little distance,
+then sinks under again. The last half mile of the ascent is very steep
+and the nearer the top the steeper it grows. There is considerable
+timber up this gap but mostly destroyed by fire. We saw a prairie
+pheasant while going up and some wild gooseberries. At eleven o'clock,
+the teams began to arrive on the dividing ridge and in less than an
+hour, all were safely up. From this ridge we can see an extensive
+valley to the west but on every other side high mountains, many of
+them white with snow. It seems as though a few hours' travel might
+bring us out from the mountains on good road again. We halted on the
+ridge a little while and then prepared to descend, many locking both
+hind wheels, a precaution not at all unnecessary. We found the road
+down exceedingly steep and rendered dangerous by the many stumps of
+trees left standing in the road. The brethren cut up many of them which
+delayed us much. About a mile down is a bridge formed of small trees
+laid one on another to fill up a deep ravine. It is steep on both sides
+and here Joseph Rooker turned his wagon over, however, without much
+damage. A mile and a half from the top is a spring and small stream of
+very good cold water where we halted to let teams drink. This would
+make a tolerably good camp ground in case of necessity. After this, the
+road is not so steep but is very rough and winds between high hills or
+mountains through willows and brush wood and over soft places, crossing
+the creek a number of times. At four and a half miles from the top of
+the ridge, we arrived at a good spring of cold water, plenty of grass
+and a good place to camp. Our teams have now been in the harness about
+ten hours without eating and the feeling of many was to stay here, but
+some wanted to go on and we continued. Turning suddenly to the right
+a little below this spring we began to ascend another high ridge and
+while ascending some of the teams began to fail. There are a great many
+service berries on this ridge growing on what we supposed to be wild
+apple trees. The berries are good and rich when ripe. The descent from
+this ridge is not nearly so steep as the other one, yet many locked
+both hind wheels. After descending, we found another small creek and
+a very rough road again. At 7:30, we formed our encampment near the
+creek, having traveled fourteen miles in thirteen hours. There is but
+little grass here and a poor chance for cattle. Orson Pratt's company
+are camped a half a mile ahead of us and our camp was formed by Colonel
+Markham. He says they have had many new cases of sickness but mostly
+getting better. The cannon is left back on the other side of the
+mountains. About a mile back from this place there is a small grove of
+sugar maple and considerable other timber along the creek. There are
+also beds of nice green rushes in several places.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, July 22</h3>
+
+<p>This morning is cloudy and some like for rain. We started on at 8:30
+and soon came up with Elder Pratt's company. There were several bad
+places in the road where the brethren spent considerable time fixing
+them. As we near the mouth of the canyon, there is a small grove of
+elder bushes in bloom and considerable oak shrubbery. We named this a
+canyon because of the very high mountains on each side leaving but a
+few rods of a bottom for the creek to pass through and hardly room for
+a road. It is evident that the emigrants who passed this way last year
+must have spent a great deal of time cutting a road through the thickly
+set timber and heavy brush wood. It is reported that they spent sixteen
+days in making a road through from Weber River which is thirty-five
+miles but as the men did not work a quarter of their time much less
+would have sufficed. However, it has taken us over three days after the
+road is made although a great many hours have been spent in improving
+it. In this thick brush wood and around here there are many very large
+rattlesnakes lurking, making it necessary to use caution while passing
+through. After traveling one and three-quarters miles, we found the
+road crossing the creek again to the north side and then ascending up a
+very steep, high hill. It is so very steep as to be almost impossible
+for heavy wagons to ascend and so narrow that the least accident might
+precipitate a wagon down a bank three or four hundred feet, in which
+case it would certainly be dashed to pieces. Colonel Markham and
+another man went over the hill and returned up the canyon to see if
+a road cannot be cut through and avoid this hill. While passing up,
+a bear started near them but soon was out of sight amongst the very
+high grass. Brother Markham says a good road can soon be made down the
+canyon by digging a little and cutting through the bushes some ten or
+fifteen rods. A number of men went to work immediately to make the road
+which will be much better than to attempt crossing the hill and will be
+sooner done.</p>
+
+<p>Agreeable to President Young's instructions, Elder Pratt accompanied by
+George A. Smith, John Brown, Joseph Mathews, John Pack, O.P. Rockwell
+and J. C. Little started on this morning on horses to seek out
+a suitable place to plant some potatoes, turnips, etc., so as to
+preserve the seed at least. While the brethren were cutting the road,
+I followed the old one to the top of the hill and on arriving there
+was much cheered by a handsome view of the Great Salt Lake lying, as I
+should judge, from twenty-five to thirty miles to the west of us; and
+at eleven o'clock I sat down to contemplate and view the surrounding
+scenery. There is an extensive, beautiful, level looking valley from
+here to the lake which I should judge from the numerous deep green
+patches must be fertile and rich. The valley extends to the south
+probably fifty miles where it is again surrounded by high mountains.
+To the southwest across the valley at about twenty to twenty-five
+miles distance is a high mountain, extending from the south end of the
+valley to about opposite this place where it ceases abruptly leaving a
+pleasant view of the dark waters of the lake. Standing on the lake and
+about due west there are two mountains and far in the distance another
+one which I suppose is on the other side the lake, probably from sixty
+to eighty miles distance. To the northwest is another mountain at the
+base of which is a lone ridge of what I should consider to be rock salt
+from its white and shining appearance. The lake does not show at this
+distance a very extensive surface, but its dark blue shade resembling
+the calm sea looks very handsome. The intervening valley appears to
+be well supplied with streams, creeks and lakes, some of the latter
+are evidently salt. There is but little timber in sight anywhere, and
+that is mostly on the banks of creeks and streams of water which is
+about the only objection which could be raised in my estimation to this
+being one of the most beautiful valleys and pleasant places for a home
+for the Saints which could be found. Timber is evidently lacking but
+we have not expected to find a timbered country. There may be timber
+on the mountains which the long distance would render impossible to
+be seen with the naked eye, but the mountains through which we have
+passed have very little on them. In some places may be seen a grove
+of small fir or cedar or pine and in the valleys some cottonwood and
+other small timber. There is doubtless timber in all passes and ravines
+where streams descend from the mountains. There is no prospect for
+building log houses without spending a vast amount of time and labor,
+but we can make Spanish brick and dry them in the sun; or we can build
+lodges as the Pawnee Indians do in their villages. For my own part I
+am happily disappointed in the appearance of the valley of the Salt
+Lake, but if the land be as rich as it has the appearance of being, I
+have no fears but the Saints can live here and do well while we will
+do right. When I commune with my own heart and ask myself whether I
+would choose to dwell here in this wild looking country amongst the
+Saints surrounded by friends, though poor, enjoying the privileges
+and blessings of the everlasting priesthood, with God for our King
+and Father; or dwell amongst the gentiles with all their wealth and
+good things of the earth, to be eternally mobbed, harassed, hunted,
+our best men murdered and every good man's life continually in danger,
+the soft whisper echoes loud and reverberates back in tones of stern
+determination; give me the quiet wilderness and my family to associate
+with, surrounded by the Saints and adieu to the gentile world till God
+says return and avenge you of your enemies. If I had my family with me,
+how happy could I be, for I dread nothing so much as the journey back
+again and when I think of the many dangers from accident which families
+traveling this road are continually liable to and especially this last
+mountain road from Weber River, it makes me almost shudder to think of
+it and I could almost envy those who have got safely through, having
+their families with them, yet they will doubtless have a hard time of
+it the coming winter. Brother Crow's family especially have very little
+bread stuff with them, they say enough to last them two months and they
+are dependent on the success of their hunter for support through the
+winter. This valley appears to be fortified by mountains, except on the
+banks of the lake, on many of which there is still snow lying in large
+quantities. It is certain that good limestone abounds in these ridges
+and it is supposed coal can be found with little labor. From this hill
+I passed down the creek which we named the Last Creek about a mile and
+there saw a bed of bull rushes of the largest kind I ever saw, some
+of them being fifteen feet high and an inch and a half in diameter
+at the bottom. The grass on this creek grows from six to twelve feet
+high and appears very rank. There are some ducks around and sand hill
+cranes. Many signs of deer, antelope, and bears, but not many have been
+seen here. There have been fresh buffalo signs seen a few days' travel
+back, but those animals evidently do not stay in this region unless
+some come to winter. The ground seems literally alive with the very
+large black crickets crawling around up grass and bushes. They look
+loathsome but are said to be excellent for fattening hogs which would
+feed on them voraciously. The bears evidently live mostly on them at
+this season of the year. After spending about four hours' labor the
+brethren succeeded in cutting a pretty good road along the creek and
+the wagons proceeded on, taking near a southwest course. We found the
+last descent even but very rapid all the way. At half past five, we
+formed our encampment on a creek supposed to be Brown's Creek, having
+traveled seven and a quarter miles today. We are now five and a quarter
+miles from the mouth of this canyon making the whole distance of rough
+mountain road from the Weber River to the mouth of the canyon on this
+side a little less than thirty-five miles and decidedly the worst
+piece of road on the whole journey. At this place, the land is black
+and looks rich, sandy enough to make it good to work. The grass grows
+high and thick on the ground and is well mixed with nice green rushes.
+Feed here for our teams is very plentiful and good and the water is
+also good. There are many rattlesnakes of a large size in this valley
+and it is supposed they have dens in the mountains. The land looks dry
+and lacks rain, but the numerous creeks and springs must necessarily
+tend to moisten it much. The grass looks rich and good. A while after
+we camped, Elder Pratt and company returned and reported that they had
+been about fifteen miles north from here and this region is as suitable
+a place to put in our seeds as they have seen. Approaching nearer the
+lake, the land is mostly sunken and many small lakes in it. A few
+miles north of this, is a good spot to break up and plant potatoes,
+sow our seeds, etc. There is a little timber on the creek. From twelve
+to fifteen miles north at the foot of the mountain they saw many hot
+sulphur springs issuing from the rocks, as many as fifty in number.
+One of them, the largest, falls out of the rocks and then forms a pool
+apparently ten feet deep and a rock is in the center. The water of this
+is so hot a person cannot bear his hand in it but a very few seconds.
+It is strong of salt and sulphur and the bottom appears green as though
+it was covered with verdigris. A council was held at the Doctor's wagon
+and it was decided to move early tomorrow to the place designated;
+also, to send two men back to the President and company to report our
+progress, etc., then to commence forthwith and plow and plant about ten
+acres with potatoes this week if possible and thus continue till the
+seed is secured. John Pack and Joseph Mathews were selected to return
+to President Young's company. The evening was fine and pleasant and the
+night feels much warmer than in the ravines of the mountains.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, July 23</h3>
+
+<p>This morning Elders Pack and Mathews started to meet the President and
+at the same time the camp moved on to the final location. We traveled
+two miles and then formed our encampment on the banks of the creek in
+an oblong circle. The grass here appears even richer and thicker on the
+ground than where we left this morning. The soil looks indeed rich,
+black and a little sandy. The grass is about four feet high and very
+thick on the ground and well mixed with rushes. If we stay here three
+weeks and our teams have any rest they will be in good order to return.
+As soon as the camp was formed a meeting was called and the brethren
+addressed by Elder Richards, mostly on the necessity and propriety of
+working faithfully and diligently to get potatoes, turnips, etc., in
+the ground. Elder Pratt reported their mission yesterday and after
+some remarks the meeting was dismissed. At the opening, the brethren
+united in prayer and asked the Lord to send rain on the land, etc. The
+brethren immediately rigged three plows and went to plowing a little
+northeast of the camp; another party went with spades, etc., to make a
+dam on one of the creeks so as to throw the water at pleasure on the
+field, designing to irrigate the land in case rain should not come
+sufficiently. This land is beautifully situated for irrigation, many
+nice streams descending from the mountains which can be turned in every
+direction so as to water any portion of the lands at pleasure. During
+the afternoon, heavy clouds began to collect in the southwest and at
+five o'clock we had a light shower with thunder. We had rains for about
+two hours. The brethren have plowed up considerable land and broken
+several of their plows, but there have been three plows going nearly
+all day. At night, the camp was called together and addressed by Elder
+Richards on a subject which seemed little welcome to many from the way
+it was handled. It was a sermon of ---- from end to end. Some
+felt a little insulted but it all passed off well and jokingly.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, July 24</h3>
+
+<p>The plowing is renewed and many are gone to planting potatoes. There
+is one drag going. Others are still at work on the dams. John Pack and
+Joseph Mathews returned at dark last night and reported the President
+and company a few miles up Last Creek. They have gone back this morning
+to fix two bridges at the mouth of the canyon. The day is fine and hot
+with a nice breeze. At a quarter to twelve, President Young and Kimball
+arrived and the wagons also began to arrive at the same time. The
+President seems much better and the sick generally are getting better.
+Most of the brethren express themselves well; pleased with the place,
+but some complain because there is no timber. There appears to be a
+unanimous agreement in regard to the richness of the soil and there are
+good prospects of sustaining and fattening stock with little trouble.
+The only objection is a lack of timber and rain. The latter God will
+send in its season if the Saints are faithful and I think yesterday was
+a proof that He listens to and answers the prayers of the Saints. We
+can easily irrigate the land at all events which will be an unfailing
+and certain source of water, for the springs are numerous and the water
+appears good. About 5:00 p.m. we were favored with another nice shower
+accompanied by thunder and some wind. It continued raining till nearly
+dark; the balance of the evening fine. Elder Kimball says that it is
+contemplated to send out an exploring party to start on Monday and
+proceed north to the Bear River and Cache valleys. They design taking
+several wagons with them and Presidents Young and Kimball accompany the
+expedition. Another company is to start at the same time and go west to
+the lake, then south to the Utah lake and return down this valley.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, July 25</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine and pleasant. At ten o'clock a meeting was held in the
+camp and the brethren addressed successively by Elders G. A.
+Smith, H. C. Kimball and E. T. Benson, these mostly
+expressing their feeling of gratification for the prospects of this
+country, each being highly satisfied with the soil, etc. Elder Kimball
+referred especially to the manifold blessings we have been favored
+with during the journey. Not a man, woman, or child has died on the
+journey, not even a horse, mule, ox, cow or chicken has died during
+the whole journey. Many exhortations were given to the brethren to
+be faithful, obey the council of those in authority and we shall be
+blessed and prosperous. At 1:00 p.m. by request of Elder Kimball, the
+following persons viz.: Howard Egan, Hans C. Hanson, Jackson Redding,
+Carlos Murray, Thomas Cloward, George Billings, Philo Johnson, Charles
+Harper, Edson Whipple, Wm. A. King, Hosea Cusing, Robert Byard, Orson
+K. Whitney and Horace Whitney, assembled themselves in a willow grove
+adjacent to the camp where Elder Kimball addressed them in substance as
+follows [the whole reported by Horace Whitney]:</p>
+
+<p>"Most of you here present have become adopted into my family, except
+a very few calling them by name and Horace, who has become connected
+with my family by marriage, but I do not care for that, you are all the
+same to me, and your interest is my interest for what's mine is yours
+and what's yours is your own. If I have the privilege of building a
+house, I want you to help me and I will help you. Horace will want to
+build a house for some of his father's family if they should come up
+and there is plenty of timber in the hills. When my family comes up,
+we may conclude to settle somewhere else. If so, there will be plenty
+to buy us out if we shall have made any improvements. I want you all
+to be prudent and take care of your horses, cattle and everything
+entrusted to your care. It would be a good plan and probably will be
+done for those who stay here, to go back on the Sweet Water and kill
+buffalo, etc., for winter consumption. We shall go tomorrow if Brigham
+is well enough, in search of a better location--if indeed, such
+can be found--if not, we shall remain here. There should be an
+enclosure made for the purpose of keeping the horses and cattle in
+nights for there are plenty of Indians in the vicinity. I should
+advise you to keep the Sabbath day holy whether others do or not. I
+want you to put all the seed into the ground that you think will come
+to maturity. I am satisfied that buckwheat will do as well here as
+any other seed we can grow. I want also some peach stones and apple
+seeds to be planted forthwith. Brother Byard and Hans I would like
+to have immediately engage in making garments of buck skins, Brother
+Cloward in making shoes and Brother Johnson in making hats as soon as
+practicable. If you wish to go hunting, fishing, or to see the country,
+select a week day and not the Lord's day for that purpose. Do not let
+us get giddy and light minded as the Nephites did of old, but strive to
+work righteousness in the beginning, inasmuch as we have reached the
+promised land. If it is advisable to work in a family capacity, we will
+do so; and if in a church capacity, we should be equally willing to do
+that. I am going out on a scout with the brethren and I shall probably
+want one or two of you to go with me and also one or two wagons. I
+am not going to take anything back with me to Winter Quarters except
+what is actually necessary--even some of my clothes I shall leave
+behind. I shall leave Bishop Whipple with you. He is quite a steady
+and economical man, and as such I recommend him to you. I want every
+man to be as industrious as possible while I am gone and get into the
+ground all the turnips, cabbage and other seeds you can. In case a
+storm of snow should come on, it would be advisable to drive all the
+cattle among the willows where they can remain until the snow goes off.
+I want you all to work together until such time as every man can have
+his inheritance set off to him. I feel towards you as a father towards
+his children and I want you to banish all peevishness from your midst
+and accommodate yourselves as much as possible to each other's wishes.
+I have it to say that my boys have been faithful to their various
+duties on this journey and other people have noticed it and expressed
+the opinion that they never saw such an attentive set of men in their
+lives, and I consider that their conduct is worthy of imitation. I want
+you to be sober and prayerful and remember me and my family in your
+prayers." A number of other good ideas were advanced by Brother Heber
+and then we closed the meeting by prayer.</p>
+
+<p>At 2:00 p.m. the brethren again assembled within the camp and were
+successively addressed by Elders Woodruff, Orson Pratt and W. Richards
+sustaining the ideas advanced by the other brethren this morning. Some
+remarks followed from Lorenzo Young, John Pack and others and the
+meeting was dismissed. It is contemplated to send some wagons back to
+lighten the loads and assist the next company over these rough roads.
+It is now certain that there is considerable timber in the ravines and
+valleys between the mountains, several large bodies having been seen
+by the brethren since our arrival. There is a mountain lying northeast
+from here on which is considerably large timber. It is supposed to be
+about ten miles distance. The northern expedition is given up for the
+present on account of President Young's health. A company intend to
+go tomorrow to the lake and survey that region. If they go, they will
+probably be gone a day or two.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, July 26</h3>
+
+<p>Morning cloudy and pleasant. The brethren commenced plowing early,
+others are gone to planting, etc., and the brethren appear to feel
+well. Some of the sick have been to bathe in one of the hot springs
+and pronounce the effects wonderfully beneficial. Others are going
+this morning to try the same experiment. Another company are gone to
+make a road to the timber through a ravine a little north of this.
+About ten o'clock, President Young sent me a horse with instructions
+to join him and some others going on a short exploring expedition.
+I immediately started and found the company consisted of President
+Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff, G. A. Smith, Benson, Richards
+and Carrington. We took a course northward passing by the land where
+the brethren are plowing and planting. The land indeed looks rich and
+light. About three-quarters of a mile north of the camp, we arrived on
+a beautiful table land, level and nicely sloping to the west. Here we
+halted to view it and the more we viewed, the better we were satisfied
+that it is as handsome a place for a city as can be imagined. At the
+east part there is a considerable creek of clear cold water descending
+from the mountains and just above this place it branches into two
+forks, one running northwest, the other southwest, and the two nicely
+surrounding this place, and so well arranged that should a city be
+built here the water can be turned into every street at pleasure. We
+passed on and began to ascend the mountains, the President signifying
+a wish to ascend a high peak to the north of us. After some hard toil
+and time we succeeded in gaining the summit, leaving our horses about
+two-thirds the way up. President Young felt pretty well fatigued when
+he got up. Some of the brethren feel like naming this Ensign Peak. From
+this place, we had a good view of the Salt Lake and could see that the
+waters extend for a great many miles to the north of us. There appears
+to be land, although white with salt, all the way to the mountain
+on the northwest which we had previously supposed was surrounded by
+water. We can see a pretty large stream winding from the south to the
+north through the valley but keeping not many miles distant from these
+mountains towards the lake. After satisfying ourselves we began to
+descend, President Young and Lorenzo, who joined us a while before we
+went up, going down on the east side where they were joined by Elders
+Woodruff, Benson, and Richards with the horses. Elders Kimball, Smith,
+Carrington and myself descended on the northwest corner and found the
+descent very lengthy and difficult. These hills are mostly rocky of a
+kind of soft stone in some places, in others a harder kind of flint
+stone. On arriving on the level again, we wound our way southward to
+meet the other brethren and after passing a little way saw one of the
+sulphur springs where a pretty large stream of sulphur water boils out
+of the rock at the foot of the mountain and thence branches out into
+several smaller streams for some distance till these enter a small
+lake. This water is about as warm as dish water and very salty. There
+is much filthy kind of substance collected on it and the smell arising
+from it is truly nauseating and sickly, though generally supposed to
+be in no way unhealthy. Elder Kimball left us here on seeing Elder
+Woodruff's carriage and the other brethren returning back towards the
+camp. In the meantime, Elders Smith, Carrington and myself went lower
+down towards the lake in search of some fresh water to quench our
+thirst. We found a nice clear stream of cold water but a little way
+from the sulphur spring and having drunk of it, we concluded to go
+on and see the river which we had noticed from the mountain. We took
+nearly a west course and soon struck the old road made by emigrants
+last year. We found the land exceedingly rich all along, good grass and
+abundance of rushes. We found many wet places but no signs of swamps,
+nor danger of miring. After traveling about two miles, we arrived at
+the river having followed the road to the ford. This river is about
+five rods wide on an average, three and a half feet deep at the ford
+but in other places much deeper. The current is slow and the water of
+a dark lead color. The banks are about five feet high and the soil to
+the water level of a rich, black alluvial. There is no timber on the
+banks here and not many willow bushes. We went over the river and found
+the soil equally good on the other side. While here we observed Elder
+Woodruff's carriage and the brethren again proceeding northward. We
+started back to meet them, it being the intention to go to the large,
+hot sulphur spring. We could but remark all along, the richness of
+the soil and the abundance of high, good looking grass. On arriving
+at the foot of the mountain beside another sulphur spring, we saw the
+carriage come on to the first spring but apparently judging it unsafe
+to cross, they wheeled around and returned back to camp. Elders Smith,
+Carrington and myself then concluded to go on and view the big spring
+which we found to be about two miles farther. Before arriving at it,
+there is a large shoal salt lake and on the banks are numerous sulphur
+springs varying in the appearance of the surface and losing themselves
+in the lake. There were many plovers on and around this lake. We
+arrived at the big spring about four o'clock and making our horses
+fast, we went down to where it boils out of the rock. This spring is
+also situated at the foot of the mountains and at the base of a large
+rock, perpendicular on the west side and gradually losing itself on
+the east in the mountain. The spring, as I have said, is at the base
+of this rock. There is a circular hole about four feet wide and a yard
+high from the top to the surface of the water from whence the water
+boils out in a considerable stream. The water itself in the spring
+seems to be about two feet deep. There is a rock at the mouth of the
+spring where a person can stand and see inside. Standing on this rock
+with your face near the mouth of the spring a strong warm sulphurous
+air is felt to come in gusts out of the rock and it is so hot that it
+requires only a few minutes to start the perspiration. On putting my
+hand in the spring, I was startled with the heat and found I could not
+bear to hold my hand in five seconds. It is as hot as the hottest dish
+water ever used for dishes. Immediately on emerging from the rock, the
+water forms a lake about three rods in diameter and evidently pretty
+deep. The water is exceedingly clear and nice to look at but very salty
+indeed. We could see the water boil up in many parts of the lake. The
+water escapes at the north side of the lake at the base of the rock and
+there forms a stream about four feet wide and eighteen inches deep. We
+concluded we would go down the stream six or eight rods to wash our
+feet, naturally expecting the water to be cooler, but on taking off
+our boots and socks we found it impossible to hold our feet in it a
+moment and could barely wash by dashing the water on with our hands
+and suddenly dipping them in and out. It is supposed this would boil
+an egg in about ten minutes. At five o'clock we returned back to camp
+and supposed that the spring is about four miles distance. We arrived
+in camp at six o'clock. The brethren have planted about three acres of
+potatoes, some peas, beans, and are now planting four or five acres
+of corn. Elder Kimball stated that on returning with the carriage to
+the creek near the camp to get some water, he discovered that he had
+lost his spy glass. He retraced his steps on foot to the top of the
+peak and back without finding it, and on arriving at the bottom he saw
+Elders Richards and Benson bathing in one of the warm sulphur springs.
+Although wet with perspiration he took off his clothes and plunged in
+and found the effects very pleasant and beneficial. After bathing they
+started back for camp and but a few rods distance found the glass near
+the road. Some of the brethren have commenced making a garden about two
+miles to the southeast and indeed their operations and industry are
+truly pleasing and noble. The more I view the country, the better I am
+satisfied that the Saints can live here and raise abundant crops. Elder
+Kimball has kindly offered me a horse to ride and view the country
+as much and when I have a mind to while we stay here. This morning
+Joseph Mathews and John Brown started west to go to the mountain. They
+returned this evening and report that they have been at the foot of
+the mountain and judge it to be about sixteen miles distance. They say
+the wild sage is very plentiful on the other side the valley, showing
+that the land is not so rich there as here. They found a horse, near
+the mountain and have brought it to camp, supposed to have strayed from
+emigrants who have previously passed this way. Towards sundown heavy
+clouds were noticed in the south and southwest. We expected a shower,
+but it passed off to the east.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, July 27</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine and warm. The atmosphere appears very different here to
+what it did amongst the mountains. The evenings and nights are very
+warm and pleasant and the air appears pure. Two of the Utah Indians
+came to camp early this morning to trade. Two ponies were bought of
+them for a rifle and musket. These two are but of moderate size,
+pleasing countenance and dressed in skins. At half past eight Amasa
+Lyman, Rodney Badger, Roswell Stevens, and Brother Brannan arrived in
+camp. They report that the Pueblo company will be in tomorrow or the
+day after. The brethren are still busy plowing and planting. Burr Frost
+has his forge up and quite a number of plows have been rigged up by the
+assistance of the carpenters. Elder Lyman, I understand, reports that
+they heard of a large company on their way and he thinks we may expect
+them in 15 or 20 days. Elders Lyman and Brannan joined the exploring
+party with President Young and Kimball and the company started off soon
+after their arrival. A company of brethren have been to the mountains
+to get more lumber to build a skiff. They returned this evening
+bringing a very handsome pine log about twenty inches through and
+which, probably, when whole, would measure sixty feet long. The day has
+been very fine and warm. The horses and cattle seem in good spirits and
+are getting fat. They are full of life and ambition. Presidents Young
+and Kimball have had their wagons moved a little distance from the camp
+to the other side the creek. During the afternoon, two more Indians
+came in to trade. Some of the brethren are making unwise trades, giving
+twenty charges of powder and balls for a buck skin, while the usual
+price is three charges. This is wrong.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, July 28</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine and warm. Several of the Indians have remained in camp
+over night. They seem very peaceable and gentle and anxious to trade.
+The brethren are making a saw pit to saw lumber for a skiff. Joseph
+Hancock and Lewis Barney have been off hunting in the mountains two
+days. They state there is abundance of good timber for building in the
+mountains but difficult to get at it. The timber is mostly balsam fir
+and poplar and many sticks will make two good logs. At half past three
+President Young and company returned. They have been at the Salt Lake
+and report it to be about twenty-five miles distance. No water after
+they leave the river except salt water. The lake is very clear and the
+water heavy, so much so, that a man cannot possibly sink. Even not
+where more than four feet deep and they tried to fall down on their
+knees but could not touch the bottom. They can sit or lie in the water
+perfectly easily without touching the bottom. One of the brethren lay
+down on the water and another got on him but could not sink him. They
+suppose the water will yield 35% pure salt. They gathered some off the
+rocks which is as pure, white and fine as the best that can be bought
+in market.</p>
+
+<p>There is a cave in the mountain west of the camp which is sixty feet
+from the entrance to the far end. The Indians appear to have frequently
+visited it and there are yet the remains of their fires.</p>
+
+<p>There appears to be no fresh water beyond the river and the brethren
+are more and more satisfied that we are already on the right spot.
+At eight o'clock the brethren were called together and addressed by
+President Young on various subjects, pointing out items of law which
+would be put in force here, his feelings towards the gentiles, etc. He
+said they intended to divide the city into blocks of ten acres each
+with eight lots in a block of one and a quarter acres each. The streets
+to be wide. No house will be permitted to be built on the corners of
+the streets, neither petty shops. Each house will have to be built so
+many feet back from the street and all the houses parallel with each
+other. The fronts are to be beautified with fruit trees, etc. No filth
+will be allowed to stand in the city but the water will be conducted
+through in such a manner as to carry all the filth off to the River
+Jordan. No man will be suffered to cut up his lot and sell a part to
+speculate out of his brethren. Each man must keep his lot whole, for
+the Lord has given it to us without price. The temple lot will be
+forty acres and adorned with trees, ponds, etc. The whole subject was
+interesting to the brethren and the items will probably be given more
+fully hereafter. The Twelve were appointed a committee to lay off the
+city, etc.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, July 29</h3>
+
+<p>We have had a very strong cold, east wind all the night and the morning
+is tolerably cool. At eleven o'clock I was moved up to the other camp
+about three-quarters of a mile. At ten o'clock we had a light shower.
+It rained pretty heavily all around but mostly passed by here. At three
+o'clock, the Pueblo brethren came in sight, the soldiers appearing in
+military order, many of them mounted. They have twenty-nine wagons in
+the company and one carriage. Presidents Young, Kimball and the Twelve
+went to meet the brethren and met them in the canyon. They report that
+they had very heavy rain there, the water rising in the creek three
+feet in a very short time, caused by the rush from the mountains. The
+brethren arrived at the lower camp at half past three and marched in
+headed by the fifes and side drum. They have camped a little west
+of the other camp. The brethren are represented as feeling well and
+cheerful. At five o'clock the Twelve returned here and an hour later
+went over north to the mountains, I suppose to hold a council.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, July 30</h3>
+
+<p>Day warm. Twelve held a council with the officer of the battalion,
+then rode up to the hot spring. Evening a general meeting of the camp
+and addressed by President Young. He told his feelings concerning the
+soldiers, they have saved the people by going when required, etc. He
+rejoiced that they are here. He expressed his feelings warmly towards
+the brethren and also told his feelings towards the gentiles. The
+meeting was opened by hosannas three times and closed by requesting
+the battalion to build a bower tomorrow on the temple lot where we can
+assemble for meetings, etc.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, July 31</h3>
+
+<p>This morning the brethren commenced making the bower on the temple lot
+a little southwest from our camp. They will make it about forty feet
+long and twenty-eight feet wide. Walked with President Young, Kimball,
+Richards and others to the Mississippi camp. Brother Thomas Richardson
+is very sick and several others of the soldiers. Soloman Tindal is yet
+alive but looks feeble. Elder Kimball conversed sometime with Captain
+James Brown. There are from twenty to thirty of the Utah Indians here
+and some squaws trading with the brethren. They are generally of low
+stature, pleasing countenance but poorly clad. While we were there, a
+dispute arose between two of the young men and they went to fighting
+very fiercely. One broke his gun stock on the other's head and I
+expected to see a pretty serious affray, many of the others gathering
+around. Soon an old man came up, father to one of the young men engaged
+in the quarrel and he used his heavy whip very freely about both their
+heads and faces. The antagonist of the son struck the old man and he
+immediately gathered a long pole and broke it over the young man's
+head. He succeeded in quelling the broil and gave them a long lecture.
+They then mostly left and resumed their trading a little distance from
+the camp. In the afternoon, we had a pretty smart thunder shower and
+considerable wind. In the evening I walked down to the Pueblo camp and
+there learned the following particulars:</p>
+
+<p>These Indians who are now here are of the Shoshones, about fifteen or
+twenty in number, and several women among them. There were four or five
+of the Utahs here this morning when the Shoshones came up. One of the
+Utahs had stolen a horse from one of the Shoshones and the latter party
+saw him with the horse here. He had traded the horse for a rifle but
+was unwilling either to give up the horse or rifle hence the quarrel
+spoken of above. When the old man separated them, the thief went down
+and hid himself in the camp below. Soon after, he saw another horse
+walking by, which he knew to belong to the Shoshones. He sprang on his
+own horse and drove the other one before him towards the mountains on
+the southeast as hard as he could ride. The Shoshones being informed
+of it, four of them started in pursuit and as he got in between the
+mountains they closed in on him, one of the pursuers shooting him dead
+while another one shot his horse. They returned and made this report
+to the others of the tribe at the camp at the same time exhibiting
+fresh blood on one of the rifles. They appear to be much excited and
+continually on the watch. When the men returned, they sat down and made
+a meal of some of these large crickets. They appear to be crisped over
+the fire which is all the cooking required. Many of the brethren have
+traded muskets and rifles for horses and ordinary muskets will buy a
+pretty good horse. They appear to be displeased because we have traded
+with the Utahs and say they own this land, that that the Utahs have
+come over the line, etc. They signified by signs that they wanted to
+sell us the land for powder and lead. The Shoshones are poorer clad
+than the Utahs. They are about the same in stature and there are many
+pleasing countenances among them. Colonel Markham reports that there
+are three lots of land already broke. One lot of thirty-five acres of
+which two-thirds is already planted with buckwheat, corn, oats, etc.
+One lot of eight acres which is all planted with corn, potatoes, beans,
+etc. And a garden of ten acres, four acres of which is sown with garden
+seed. He says there are about three acres of corn already up about two
+inches above the ground and some beans and potatoes up too. This is
+the result of eight days' labor, besides making a road to the timber,
+hauling and sawing timber for a boat, making and repairing plows, etc.
+There have been thirteen plows and three harrows worked during the week.</p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-16>August 1847</h2>
+
+<h3>Sunday, August 1</h3>
+
+<p>We have had another cool windy night. At ten o'clock in the morning
+the brethren assembled for meeting under the bower on the temple lot,
+all the members of the quorum of the Twelve being present except
+President Young who is quite sick again. After the meeting had been
+opened by singing and prayer by Elder G. A. Smith, Elder Kimball
+arose and made some remarks to the following effect, as reported by
+Brother Bullock: "I would enquire whether there is a guard out around
+our cattle; if not, let one be placed immediately. The Indians left
+here very suddenly this morning and we don't know their object. If we
+don't take good care of what we have, we will not have any more. It is
+all in the world we shall ever have, for 'to him that receiveth I will
+give more.' We are the sons of God and He will do with us as we would
+do to our children, and inasmuch as I am faithful in taking care of my
+neighbors' goods, I shall be entitled to the same from them, for we
+are commanded to do unto others as we want others to do to us. Every
+penurious man who takes advantage of others will come down to poverty.
+If we have to follow the steps of our Savior we have to follow and
+experience the same things; you will have to feel for men so as to know
+how to sympathize with them and then you can feel for them. I feel for
+this people and grow more feeling for them every day. Our Father in
+Heaven is more tender to us than any mother to her little child. If I
+am faithful to serve others, others will be willing to serve me."</p>
+
+<p>Orson Pratt requested the prayers of the Saints in his behalf: "It
+is with peculiar feelings that I arise before so many of the Saints
+in this uncultivated region inhabited by savages. My mind is full
+of reflection on the scenes through which we have passed and being
+brought through the deserts of sage to this distant region. God's ways
+are not as our ways. It is not wisdom that the Saints should always
+foresee the difficulties they have to encounter for then they would
+not be trials. We expected some revelations to take place and behold
+they are revealed in the Book of Mormon and Doctrine and Covenants,
+for we are to congregate among the remnants of Joseph. We did think
+our wives and children would be built up among the strongholds of the
+gentiles, we thought we should be as Missourians to them. Jehovah had
+different purposes. He designed that this people should be brought
+out almost as an entire people. The Book of Mormon never would have
+been fulfilled if the Saints had not left the gentiles as a people,
+for when the gentiles rejected the Gospel it was to be taken among the
+Lamanites. So long as the Gospel, the Priesthood and the main body of
+the people remained with them, the fullness of the Gospel was not taken
+away from the gentiles. This movement is one of the greatest that has
+taken place among this people. I feel thankful as one of the Twelve for
+the privilege of coming out as one of the pioneers to this glorious
+valley where we can build up a city to the Lord. For many years I have
+not read that good old book, but I remember the predictions in it and
+some that are now very nearly fulfilled by us. Isaiah says, (Chapter
+62) speaking of the City of Zion, it shall be 'Sought out, a city not
+forsaken,' etc. Many in this congregation know what is meant by the
+garments of salvation and the robe of righteousness. Righteousness and
+praise shall spring forth before all the nations of the earth and they
+will not hold their peace. There are many of you that feel you can cry
+day and night to the people in the cause of righteousness until it
+shall triumph. 'For as a young man marrieth a virgin,' etc.--this
+belongs and refers to us. 'I will no longer give thy corn to be meat
+for thine enemy.' This has not been fulfilled heretofore but will be.
+The corn that we toil to raise from the earth, it shall not be given
+to our enemies, they that gather it shall eat it, and they shall drink
+in the courts of His holiness. This wine is also to be drunk in the
+courts of the Lord's house. We have gathered out the stones out of the
+road and thousands will yet fulfil this prophecy. It has reference
+to the latter times that were to dawn upon the world in the last
+dispensation. 'Thou shalt be called, Sought out, A city not forsaken.'
+If ever there was a place sought out it is this, we have enquired
+diligently and have found it. This cannot refer to Jerusalem, but to
+this very place, point and spot that the pioneers have found where a
+city shall be built unto the Lord, where righteousness will reign and
+iniquity not be allowed. Isaiah and Joel both spake very plainly on
+this subject. 'It shall come to pass in the last days that the house of
+the Lord shall be established,' etc. In what part of the earth could
+it be established more than in this place where this congregation is
+gathered. In the midst of the spires of the mountains we have found
+a place large enough to gather a few thousand of the Saints. You may
+travel Europe, Asia, Africa and America but you cannot find a place
+much higher where any people can raise crops and sustain themselves.
+The house of the Lord will be established on the tops of the mountains
+when we shall have once reared here. The experience of the Saints
+proves that there was no house of the Lord, and we can say: travel over
+this earth but you cannot find the house of the Lord. The Lord must
+give the pattern of the building and order it, and give directions to
+His servants. The Lord wants His house built precisely to the pattern
+that He gives and He is bound to speak to and bless and make them His
+own children in that house and I verily believe I shall see it and see
+thousands come flocking to the house to learn the way of salvation.
+And I want to see the time that I shall see thousands raising their
+voices on this consecrated land. There are many testimonies in the
+prophets all bearing upon this subject. Joseph, in the Book of Doctrine
+and Covenants speaks of this very subject and it appears there will be
+some sinners in Zion who will be afraid and a devouring fire will rest
+upon every dwelling place in Zion. 'He that walketh righteously' etc.,
+'He shall dwell on high, bread shall be given him, his water shall
+be sure.' Isaiah was on the eastern continent when he spoke this and
+was speaking of a very distant place. It will be pretty difficult to
+get a ship of war up to this place. When we get used to this healthy
+climate, the people will not say, I am sick, but will be able to smite
+the gentiles. They will grow up strong and will not be in jeopardy
+from sickness. The wilderness shall become as a fruitful field and a
+fruitful field as a forest. We know the time will come that the great
+Jehovah will cause springs of water to gush out of the desert lands
+and we shall see the lands survive that the gentiles have defiled.
+Isaiah speaks of the heritage of Jacob being in a high place. This
+is about four thousand feet above the level of the sea and the high
+mountains will still catch the hail and we shall be in a low place. We
+will not feel discouraged but will feel full of vigor and circumscribe
+all things to the very heavens, for this is what we desire above all
+things. Let us endeavor to covenant in our hearts, that we will serve
+the Lord; that we will keep His commandments and obey His counsel. I
+wish that all of us should be faithful and as President Young said the
+other evening, every man is expected to do his duty. The Lord will be
+with us still; He will shield, guard and defend us by day and be our
+refuge by night, and our salvation. I feel to say in the name of the
+Lord Jesus Christ, you shall be blest if you keep the commandments of
+God. Amen."</p>
+
+<p>Elder Kimball hopes the brethren will be attentive to what they hear
+for if you bring an evil upon this people you will bring destruction
+upon yourself. If you do things according to counsel and they are
+wrong, the consequences will fall on the heads of those who counseled
+you, so don't be troubled. I do not want to be wrapt in the skins of
+some men who have taken a course that has brought destruction upon
+themselves and others, and they will have to answer for it. I am a man
+that would not speak to a man's daughter to marry her until I have
+first spoken to her father and mother also, and then it is done by
+common consent. But I preach the truth, every word of it. President
+Young instructed the Battalion last evening and counseled them for
+their comfort and the counsel is for the brethren to keep their guns
+and their powder and their balls and lead and not let the Indians have
+it for they will shoot down our cattle. They stole guns yesterday and
+had them under their blankets and if you don't attend to this you are
+heating a kettle of boiling water to scald your own feet. If you listen
+to counsel you will let them alone and let them eat the crickets,
+there's a plenty of them. I understand they offered to sell the land
+and we were to buy it of them, the Utahs would want to pay for it too.
+The land belongs to our Father in Heaven and we calculate to plow and
+plant it and no man will have power to sell his inheritance for he
+cannot remove it; it belongs to the Lord. I am glad I have come to a
+place where I feel free. I am satisfied and we are in a goodly land. My
+family is back, my teams are helping on several families and leaving
+ours. If my family were here I would not go over that road again. I
+believe in Brother Joseph's religion which he said was a key that would
+save every man or woman, and that it is for every man to mind his own
+business and let other people's business alone. We will all have farms
+and cultivate them and plant vineyards, and if we are faithful, five
+years will not pass away before we are better off than we ever were
+in Nauvoo. If we had brought our families along everybody else would
+have come; and we must lose another year. We could not bring all the
+soldiers' families for the same reason that we did not bring our own
+families. I thank the Lord that there are so many of the soldiers here.
+If they had tarried in Winter Quarters there would have been many more
+deaths among them. We brought many of these pioneers to save their
+lives, many of them were very sick and were carried out of their beds
+and put into the wagons. They have mostly recovered their health and
+we have been prosperous and have been permitted to arrive here alive.
+There has not one died on the journey, nor an ox nor horse nor anything
+except one of Brother Crow's oxen which was poisoned. We lost several
+horses by accident and we shall be prosperous on our journey back again
+if we are faithful, those of us who go, and we shall see and enjoy
+the society of our families again. We will one day have a house built
+here and have the forts and go into the house and administer for our
+dead. Elder Richards then read an order from Lieut. Cooke of the Mormon
+Battalion on the Pacific, after which Elder Bullock read a letter from
+Jefferson Hunt to James Brown, dated July 6, 1847, after which and a
+few other remarks, the meeting was dismissed.</p>
+
+<p>At 2:25 the congregation assembled and opened by singing and prayer by
+Elder Woodruff. Bread and water were then administered by the bishops
+after which Elder Richards, after a few preliminary remarks, read the
+"Word and will of the Lord," as given in Winter Quarters. Elder Kimball
+made some remarks and the brethren manifested that they received and
+would obey the revelations by uplifted hand. He was followed by remarks
+by Elder Amasa Lyman, mostly sustaining the positions taken by the
+previous speakers. Elder Kimball again rose to lay before the brethren
+some items of business, whereupon it was decided that the three
+companies form into one camp and labor together that the officers be a
+committee to form the corral, and that the corral be formed tomorrow.
+That horses and mules be tied near the camp at nights; that we build
+houses instead of living in wagons this winter; that we go to work
+immediately putting up houses; that we work unitedly; that the houses
+form a stockade or fort to keep out the Indians; that our women and
+children be not abused and that we let the Indians alone.</p>
+
+<p>Colonel Rockwood remarked that a log house 16 by 15 would cost forty
+dollars and one of adobes half as much. Captain Brown was in favor of
+setting men to work building both log and adobe houses to hasten the
+work. Captain Lewis said that inasmuch as timber is scarce and we have
+spades and shovels and tools enough, as many as can be used, he is in
+favor of building adobe houses and saving the timber. Lieutenant Willis
+said you can put up an adobe house before a man could get the logs for
+a log house. Adobe houses are healthy and are the best for equinoxial
+gales. Elder Brannan has a man in California who will take three men,
+make adobes for a thirty foot house, build the house and put a family
+in it in a week. His printing office was put up in fourteen days and a
+paper printed. Elder Richards said we want brick made and lime burned.
+If wood is put into houses it will be a waste of it. We want all the
+timber to make floors and roofs. We want the walls up and we are men
+enough to put them up in a few days and have the women protected.
+It was voted to put up a stockade of adobe houses. Samuel Gould and
+James Drum reported themselves as lime burners. Sylvester H. Earl,
+Joel J. Terrill, Ralph Douglas and Joseph Hancock reported themselves
+as brick makers. Elder Kimball then remarked that those who intend
+to send ox teams back to Winter Quarters must be ready a week from
+tomorrow morning. If the cattle's feet are too tender, have them shod,
+or have new shoes in the wagons. Those oxen to rest and be released
+from plowing, etc. Do not get the Indians around here. I want you to
+have nothing to do with them. After a few remarks on general items, the
+meeting dismissed.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, August 2</h3>
+
+<p>We have had another cool night, but morning fine. The other companies
+commenced moving their wagons up and we also moved a little farther
+east. During the day the whole camp was formed in an oblong circle.
+About noon Ezra T. Benson and several others started back to meet the
+next company. They carried a letter, the following being a copy of the
+same:</p>
+
+<p>"Pioneer camp. Valley of the Great Salt Lake, August 2, 1847. To
+General Chas. C. Rich and the Presidents and Officers of the emigrating
+company. Beloved Brethren: We have delegated our beloved Brother Ezra
+T. Benson and escort to communicate to you by express the cheering
+intelligence that we have arrived in the most beautiful valley of the
+Great Salt Lake, that every soul who left Winter Quarters with us
+is alive and almost everyone enjoying good health. That portion of
+the battalion that was at Pueblo is here with us together with the
+Mississippi company that accompanied them and they are generally well.
+We number about 450 souls and we know of no one but who is pleased with
+our situation. We have commenced the survey of a city this morning. We
+feel that the time is fast approaching when those teams that are going
+to Winter Quarters this fall should be on the way. Every individual
+here would be glad to tarry if his friends were here, but as many of
+the battalion, as well as the pioneers, have not their families here
+and do not expect that they are in your camp, we wish to learn by
+express from you, the situation of your camp as speedily as possible
+that we may be prepared to counsel and act in the whole matter. We
+want you to send us the names of every individual in your camp, or in
+other words, a copy of your camp roll, including the names, number of
+wagons, horses, mules, oxen, cows, etc., and the health of your camp,
+your location, prospects, etc. If your teams are worn out, if your camp
+is sick and not able to take care of themselves, if you are short of
+teamsters or any other circumstance impeding your progress. We want to
+know it immediately for we have help for you, and if your teams are in
+good plight and will be able to return to Winter Quarters this season
+or any portion of them, we want to know it. We also want the mail,
+which will include all letters and papers, and packages belonging to
+our camp, general and particular. Should circumstances permit, we would
+gladly meet you some distance from this, but our time is very much
+occupied. Notwithstanding, we think you will see us before you see our
+valley. Let all the brethren and sisters cheer up their hearts and know
+assuredly that God has heard and answered their prayers and ours and
+led us to a goodly land, and our souls are satisfied therewith. Brother
+Benson can give you many particulars that will be gratifying and
+cheering to you which we have not time to write, and we feel to bless
+all the Saints. In behalf of the council. Willard Richards, Clerk.
+Brigham Young, President.</p>
+
+<p>This morning, Elders Pratt and Sherwood commenced surveying the city
+to lay it off in lots but finally concluded to wait until the chain
+could be tested by a standard pole which will have to be gotten from
+the mountains. Some of the brethren are preparing to make moulds
+for adobes. In the evening, Elder Kimball's teams returned from the
+mountains with some good house logs and poles for measuring, etc.
+The day has been very warm but the nights begin to be very cool. The
+northeast winds seem to prevail here at this season and coming from the
+mountains of snow are cold when the sun is down. After dark President
+Young sent for me to come to his wagon and told his calculations about
+our starting back. He wants me to start with the ox teams next Monday
+so as to have a better privilege of taking the distances, etc. He
+calculates the horse teams to start two weeks later, and if the first
+company arrives at Grand Island before the other comes up to wait for
+them there, kill and dry buffalo, etc. He wants the roadometer fixed
+this week and Elder Kimball has selected William King to do the work.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, August 3</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine, but cool. Elder Carrington starts for the mountains to
+look for limestone. During the day I went and bathed at Bullock's
+bathing place in one of the warm sulphur springs. I found the effects
+very refreshing and beneficial. Spent most of the day making a table of
+distances, etc. The day very hot.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, August 4</h3>
+
+<p>This morning William A. King has commenced making a new roadometer. The
+day very hot and close.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, August 5</h3>
+
+<p>Again at the roadometer, day very warm. J. C. Little and others
+have returned and report that they have been at the Utah Lake. As they
+went up they saw bodies of two dead Indians lying on the ground proving
+that there was one of each tribe killed the other day. They consider
+it to be about forty miles to the Utah Lake and on the east side is a
+handsome valley about six or eight miles wide. They are now convinced
+that the stream which runs a few miles below here is the Utah outlet,
+they having followed it to its junction with the lake.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, August 6</h3>
+
+<p>The day very warm.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, August 7</h3>
+
+<p>Today William A. King has finished the roadometer which will now tell
+the distance for one thousand miles without keeping any account. About
+noon a very large whirlwind struck the south side of the camp forming
+a cloud of dust about twenty feet in diameter and making a loud roar.
+It carried a chicken up some distance, tore up the bowers, and shook
+the wagons violently in its course. It passed off to the northeast and
+seemed to break at the mountains. This morning fifteen of the brethren
+commenced building a dam a little above the camp so as to bring the
+water around and inside the camp. They finished early in the afternoon
+and we have now a pleasant little stream of cold water running on
+each side the wagons all around the camp. Where the water runs off or
+overflows the gutters, it soon becomes miry and cattle will sink a half
+a yard in mud. This is owing to the lightness of the soil, it being
+very light and rich. In the evening, many of the brethren went and were
+baptized in the dam by Elder Kimball for the remission of sins, Elders
+Pratt, Woodruff, and Smith attending to confirmation. I went and was
+baptized amongst the rest. It has been recommended for all the camp to
+be baptized and this evening they have commenced it.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, August 8</h3>
+
+<p>Morning cloudy with strong northeast wind. The brethren have resumed
+baptizing and a number have obeyed the ordinance both male and female.
+At ten o'clock, a meeting was held in the bowery and instructions given
+to the brethren. At two o'clock, sacrament was administered and 110 of
+the brethren selected to make adobes. Wrote a letter for Heber to Elder
+Martin and others.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, August 9</h3>
+
+<p>At eleven o'clock, Brannan, Captain James Brown and several others
+started for San Francisco. Elder J. C. Little accompanies them to
+Fort Hall. I spent three hours taking observations with the barometer
+with Elder Pratt to ascertain the height of the land on the creek above
+the city. Ensign Peak, etc. The twelve had decided on a name for this
+place and a caption for all letters and documents issued from this
+place, which is as follows: Salt Lake City, Great Basin, North America.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, August 10</h3>
+
+<p>This morning, President Young and Kimball have gone to the adobe yard
+to commence building some houses in that region. They have already got
+many good logs on the ground. Colonel Markham reports that in addition
+to the plowing done week before last, they have plowed about thirty
+acres which is mostly planted, making a total of about eighty acres.
+The plowing ceased last week and the brethren are now making adobes,
+hauling logs, etc. Elder Sherwood continues surveying the city. Tanner
+and Frost are setting wagon tires and have set fifty-two today. The
+brethren who went to the lake on Monday to boil down salt have returned
+this evening and report that they have found a bed of beautiful salt
+ready to load into wagons. It lies between two sand bars and is about
+six inches thick. They suppose they can easily load ten wagons without
+boiling. I have received from Elder Kimball a pair of buckskin pants,
+as a present I suppose, but as I have on similar occasions been
+branded with the idea of receiving a great many kindnesses without
+consideration, I will for this once state a little particular on the
+other side the question. I acknowledge that I have had the privilege of
+riding in a wagon and sleeping in it, of having my victuals cooked and
+some meat and milk, and occasionally a little tea or coffee furnished.
+My flour I furnished myself. I have had no team to take care of. Howard
+Egan has done most of my washing until a month ago in consideration of
+the privilege of copying from my journal, using my desk, ink, etc. The
+balance of my washing I have hired. Now what have I done for Brother
+Kimball? Am I justly indebted on this journey? Answer: I have written
+in his journal 124 pages of close matter on an average of 600 words
+to a page, which if paid at the price of recording deeds in Illinois
+would amount to over $110.00. I have collected the matter myself,
+besides writing letters, etc. This has been for his special benefit.
+I have kept an account of the distance we have traveled for over 800
+miles of the journey, attended to the measurement of the road, kept
+the distances from creek to creek and from one encampment to another;
+put up a guide board every ten miles from Fort John to this place with
+the assistance of Philo Johnson. I have mapped some for Dr. Richards
+and keeping my own journal forms the whole benefit to be derived by
+my family by this mission. I have yet considerable to write in Elder
+Kimball's journal before I return. I am expected to keep a table of
+distances of the whole route returning from here to Winter Quarters and
+make a map when I get through, and this for public benefit. Now how
+much am I considered to be in debt, and how often will it be said that
+I was furnished by others with victuals, clothing, etc., that I might
+enjoy this journey as a mission of pleasure. I have spent most of this
+day calculating the height of this spot above the level of the sea for
+Elder Pratt.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, August 11</h3>
+
+<p>Early this morning, a large company of the Utah Indians came to
+visit the camp and it was with difficulty they could be kept outside
+the wagons. There are few of them who have any clothing on except
+the breech clout and are mostly of low stature. They have scarcely
+anything to trade and not many women and children with them. They are
+camped about three miles north of west and supposed to be going north
+hunting. One of them was detected stealing some clothing which lay
+on the bushes to dry, but was made to leave it. When they found they
+were not permitted inside the circle, they soon moved off to their
+camp. The brethren have commenced laying the adobe wall today which
+will be twenty-seven inches thick and nine feet high. The adobes are
+18 inches long, 9 inches broad and 4½ inches thick. The brethren in
+camp have finished the skiff and launched her in the creek to soak.
+About five o'clock, a child of Therlkill's was found in the creek
+south of the camp drowned. Various efforts were made to restore it but
+unsuccessfully. The child was about three years old and its parents
+mourn the accident bitterly. The day has been very hot, but as usual,
+at sundown we have a strong, cool wind from the northeast.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, August 12</h3>
+
+<p>Spent the forenoon with Elder Pratt in taking observations to ascertain
+the height of the temple block above the Utah outlet which he found to
+be sixty-five feet. The altitude one mile up the creek above the temple
+block is 214 feet and the altitude of the temple block above the level
+of the sea is 4,300 feet. The latitude 40° 45' 50". The blacksmiths are
+very busy shoeing oxen and there is prospect that the ox teams will
+start back on Monday or Tuesday. The soldiers are getting dissatisfied
+at being kept here so long from their families and yesterday several of
+them left the camp secretly to go to Winter Quarters and this morning
+others are gone, but it is probable that President Young knows nothing
+of it yet although about a dozen are already gone and others are
+preparing to follow them. On Tuesday President Young laid a foundation
+for four houses; Elder Kimball four, Colonel Markham one, Dr. Richards
+one, and Lorenzo Young two, and today Dr. Richards has laid the
+foundation of another, George A. Smith two and Wilford Woodruff two,
+making a total of seventeen houses mostly fourteen feet wide and from
+twelve to seventeen long. Elder Kimball has his house four logs high.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, August 13</h3>
+
+<p>Spent the day mostly writing. The brethren have got 130 bushels of salt
+with twenty-four hours labor.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, August 14</h3>
+
+<p>Started at 8:40 in company with a number of others for the Salt Lake.
+We arrived at three o'clock and estimated the distance twenty-two
+miles. We all bathed in it and found the reports of those who had
+previously bathed in no ways exaggerated. We returned back to the river
+where we arrived at eleven o'clock at the beginning of a light thunder
+shower. There is no pure fresh water between the river and the lake.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, August 15</h3>
+
+<p>President Young preached on the death of little children, etc. Evening
+the company composing those who are returning with the ox teams met
+and voted that Shadrach Roundy and Tunis Rappleyee be captains. They
+received instructions to start tomorrow and travel leisurely to Grand
+Island and there wait for the last company of horse teams. J. C.
+Little and company returned yesterday from Utah Lake, and this morning
+the exploring company returned.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, August 16</h3>
+
+<p>Spent most of the day fixing the roadometer, also finished marking the
+distances, camping places,, etc., on Dr. Richards' map from Devil's
+gate to Little Sandy. Evening took the wagon in company with Jackson
+Redding and Howard Egan to the warm spring to try the roadometer. We
+found the distance to be one and a half miles. Most of the company of
+ox teams have started today for Winter Quarters. They will go to the
+canyon and wait there till morning. After dark, Elder Kimball called a
+number of us together in the tent and each one present selected a lot
+for himself and family. I had previously selected lots 1, 7 and 8 on
+block 95, but President Young broke into our arrangements and wished 7
+and 8 reserved, consequently I made choice of lots 1, 2 and 3 on block
+95.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, August 17</h3>
+
+<p>Started out at 8:10 and found the distance to the mouth of the canyon
+five miles, the difference arising from making a road across instead
+of following the first one. One and three quarters of a mile farther
+arrived at where the company had camped for the night and found them
+all ready to start, only waiting for President Young to arrive and give
+some instructions, but he sent word he should not come and we started
+forward. Elders Kimball and Richards soon overtook the company, gave
+some instructions, then returned and the company moved on. On arriving
+at Birch Spring, we encamped for the night, having traveled thirteen
+and a half miles. There is considerable danger of cattle miring near
+the spring and several have already had to be pulled out. This company
+consists of seventy-one men with thirty-three wagons. After camping,
+the brethren were called together by Captain Roundy for the purpose
+of organizing. He briefly stated the manner of the organization of
+the camp when we left Winter Quarters and it was unanimously voted to
+organize after the same pattern which was done as follows:</p>
+
+<h3>1st Division</h3>
+
+<p>1st Ten</p>
+
+<p>Joseph Skeen, Captain<br>
+  Wm. Burt<br>
+  Artemas Johnson<br>
+  James Dunn<br>
+  James Cazier<br>
+  Joseph Shipley<br>
+  Geo. Cummings<br>
+  Samuel Badham<br>
+  Thos. Richardson<br>
+  Roswell Stevens</p>
+
+<p>2nd Ten</p>
+
+<p>Zebedee Coltrin, Captain<br>
+  Wm. Bird<br>
+  Chester Loveland<br>
+  Josiah Curtis<br>
+  Lorenzo Babcock<br>
+  John S. Eldridge<br>
+  Samuel H. Marble<br>
+  Horace Thornton<br>
+  Geo. Scholes</p>
+
+<p>3rd Ten</p>
+
+<p>Francis Boggs, Captain<br>
+  Geo. Wardle<br>
+  Sylvester H. Earl<br>
+  Seeley Owens<br>
+  Almon M. Williams<br>
+  Clark Stillman</p>
+
+<p>Tunis Rappleyee, Captain of 1st Division. James Cazier Captain of Guard
+in 1st Division.</p>
+
+<h3>2nd Division</h3>
+
+<p>1st Ten</p>
+
+<p>Jackson Redding, Captain<br>
+  Robert Biard<br>
+  Wm. Carpenter<br>
+  Benj. W. Rolfe<br>
+  Henry W. Sanderson<br>
+  Thos. Cloward<br>
+  Bailey Jacobs<br>
+  Lisbon Lamb<br>
+  John Pack<br>
+  Wm. Clayton</p>
+
+<p>2nd Ten</p>
+
+<p>John H. Tippets, Captain<br>
+  Lyman Stevens<br>
+  Francis T. Whitney<br>
+  Lyman Curtis<br>
+  James Stewart<br>
+  John S. Gleason<br>
+  Chas. A. Burke<br>
+  Myron Tanner<br>
+  Wm. McLellan<br>
+  Rufus Allen<br>
+  Norman Taylor</p>
+
+<p>3rd Ten</p>
+
+<p>Allen Cumpton, Captain<br>
+  Franklin Allen<br>
+  John Bybee<br>
+  David Garner<br>
+  J. Averett<br>
+  Harmon D. Persons<br>
+  John G. Smith<br>
+  Solomon Tindal<br>
+  Philip Garner<br>
+  Chas. Hopkins<br>
+  Barnabas Lake</p>
+
+<p>4th Ten</p>
+
+<p>Andrew J. Shoop, Captain<br>
+  Albert Clark<br>
+  Francillo Durfee<br>
+  James Hendrickson<br>
+  Erastus Bingham<br>
+  John Calvert<br>
+  Loren Kenney<br>
+  Daniel Miller<br>
+  Benj. Roberts<br>
+  Luther W. Glazier<br>
+  Jarvis Johnson<br>
+  Thos. Bingham</p>
+
+<p>Shadrack Roundy, Captain of 2nd Division. John Gleason, Captain of
+Guard.</p>
+
+<p>The soldiers were numbered with the 2nd Division, 3rd and 4th tens.</p>
+
+<p>Those who have horses to ride were then numbered and their duty pointed
+out, which is to lead the way and fix the road where it needs it; look
+out camping places; drive the loose cattle and hunt for the camp. Their
+names are as follows: John Pack, Captain, Samuel Badham, Francillo
+Durfee, Benj. Roberts, Thomas Bingham, James Hendrickson, John
+Eldridge, R. I. Redding, Seeley Owens, Barnabas Lake, Wm. Bird,
+Daniel Miller, James Cazier.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, August 18</h3>
+
+<p>We had a little rain this morning and the air very cool. We started at
+8:00 a.m. and found the road rough indeed. When ascending the mountain
+from Brown's Creek, most of the teams had to double, it generally
+requiring six yoke of oxen to bring up an empty wagon. The descent is
+also very rough and especially where the road crosses the dry creek
+which is a great many times. Canyon Creek appeared rougher than when we
+first went up it and it took till near night to get to the end of the
+creek, having traveled only fifteen and three quarters miles during the
+day.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, August 19</h3>
+
+<p>We got started again about 8:00 a.m., all except Chas. A. Burke. One of
+his oxen was missing. Before noon several of the loose cattle gave out
+through being over driven. We arrived and camped on Red Mountain Creek
+at six o'clock, having traveled sixteen and a quarter miles. The day
+has been very hot but nights are very cold.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, August 20</h3>
+
+<p>Morning very cold. Started out at seven and traveled till 12:30, the
+day being cool, then rested and baited an hour. At 1:30 proceeded again
+and arrived at Cache or Reddings Cave at 5:00 p.m., having traveled
+twenty and a half miles, but it was nearly seven o'clock before the
+company arrived.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, August 21</h3>
+
+<p>Started at 7:30 a.m. and traveled till 12:00 then baited an hour. We
+found Bear River not over fifteen inches deep. We camped on Sulphur
+Creek at five o'clock having traveled sixteen and a half miles and
+after camping I went with the brethren to fill their tar buckets at
+the oil spring. We followed a wagon trail made by a part of Hasting's
+company last year about a mile and found the spring situated in a
+ravine a little to the left of the road just at the edge of a high
+bench of land. The ground is black over with the oil for several rods
+but it is baked hard by exposure to the sun. It is difficult to get
+the clear oil, most of it being filled with dust and gravel. It smells
+much like British oil and is said to do well for greasing wagons. John
+Gleason has found a coal bed in the edge of the mountain across the
+creek. The coal looks good and burns freely.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, August 22</h3>
+
+<p>Many of the cattle were missing this morning but after much search were
+found about four miles southwest from camp. We started at nine o'clock
+and traveled till one, then halted an hour at the copperas spring. Most
+of the wagons halted at the spring four miles back. The water of this
+spring is not bad, cattle drink it freely. At two o'clock we began to
+ascend the ridge and at five formed our camp near the Muddy fork having
+traveled seventeen and three quarters miles, the day cool and cloudy.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, August 23</h3>
+
+<p>We started early this morning and arrived at Fort Bridger at one
+o'clock. We found the grass pretty much eaten off and only stayed an
+hour and a half while some of the brethren traded some, then went
+on eight miles farther and camped on a stream two rods wide, having
+traveled twenty-one and a half miles, the day very cool.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, August 24</h3>
+
+<p>This morning many of the cattle had strayed several miles from camp
+which prevented our starting till eight o'clock. We traveled eight and
+a half miles, then halted an hour on Black's Fork. We proceeded again
+and had a pretty heavy thunder shower and arrived at Ham's Fork at
+5:20, then camped for the night, having traveled twenty-three miles.
+Most of the wagons did not arrive till nearly night, but we had no
+place to camp short of this and here we have good range for cattle.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, August 25</h3>
+
+<p>We traveled today twenty-three miles and camped on Green River. We
+found several places where the road is shortened some, but it is yet
+about sixteen miles from water to water.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, August 26</h3>
+
+<p>Started at eight o'clock and went on to the Big Sandy and before the
+majority of the company arrived, E. T. Benson and escort came up
+with letters from the companies. They say there are nine companies
+between here and the Platte with 566 wagons and about 5,000 head of
+stock. They report the companies well and getting along tolerably fast,
+some they expect we shall meet within three days. After eating they
+proceeded on. After sundown a large party of mounted Indians came up,
+and camped on the opposite side the river. They have been on the Sweet
+Water hunting and are said to be of the Shoshone tribe.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, August 27</h3>
+
+<p>Many of the brethren traded sugar, powder, lead, etc., to the Indians
+for robes and skins and meat. We started soon after seven and traveled
+to the crossing of the Big Sandy. Then after halting an hour, continued
+to the Little Sandy, making twenty-five and a quarter miles today, but
+it was nine o'clock before some of the wagons arrived. The feed is
+mostly eaten up on the creeks near the road and there is none except on
+the banks of streams. Bailey Jacobs killed a large antelope which is a
+matter of rejoicing as we are nearly out of bread stuff and had little
+meat for several days. We started back from the valley with 8 lbs. of
+flour, 9 lbs. of meal and a few beans each, and we have to depend on
+getting meat on the road for the rest. I was told there were 25 lbs. of
+flour put up for me, but I find it is not so.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, August 28</h3>
+
+<p>Started at eight o'clock and traveled till half past three before
+halting when we arrived at the crossing of the Pacific creek and halted
+to camp for the night having traveled twenty-three miles. There is no
+grass from Little Sandy to this place except a very little on Dry Sandy
+but the water there has some taste of alkali and teams do not like it.
+Here there is considerable grass along the creek and very good water
+but no wood except wild sage. We had a heavy thunder shower about four
+o'clock and considerable hail. It was dark before the ox teams arrived.
+Some of the men had killed a buffalo a few miles back, but it is very
+poor.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, August 29</h3>
+
+<p>It was decided to remain here today to rest the teams, but our ten
+obtained leave to go on to Sweet Water, expecting to meet the company,
+and after reading the letter of instructions from the council to
+this camp, my wagon proceeded on slowly. At the Springs, we saw
+an aged Indian squaw near the road dwelling in a shelter composed
+merely of wild sage and apparently dependent on passing emigrants
+for subsistence. She is doubtless left to perish on account of age
+and infirmity, but it is likely she will live some time on what she
+receives from those who pass by. When we arrived near the summit of the
+dividing ridge or south pass, two Indians rode towards us and motioned
+for us to stop. Not seeing the other wagons coming after, we stopped to
+wait for the wagons and the Indians soon arrived. They made signs that
+a large party of them were over the mountain north and they wanted to
+"swap." While they were conversing a number more rode over the ridge
+and soon after a still larger number. About this time the wagons came
+in sight and when the brethren saw so many Indians they were alarmed.
+John Pack rode back to the main camp to get some of the brethren to
+come up, but J. R. said he would not budge a foot. The brethren
+behind were much alarmed, some expecting to be scalped and one W. Carr
+ran and hid himself in the sage bushes. No one returned with John Pack
+but Norman Taylor and the wagons proceeded towards us. In the meantime,
+after learning the object for which the Indians sought us, that none of
+them were armed except two, and by a certificate that the first visitor
+was a Shoshone chief, Brother Lamb and myself signified that we would
+trade with them and soon some of them returned with antelope, buck and
+elk skins and robes to trade. I traded some balls and a little powder
+for one robe, one elk skin, two buckskins and nine antelope skins and
+a pair of moccasins. Lamb bought five antelope skins. While we were
+trading, the other wagons arrived and also commenced trading. The
+Indians, about sixty in number, about twenty of them boys, all mounted,
+seemed highly pleased to trade with us which we did mostly through the
+chief. By request of the chief, I gave him a certificate stating that
+he appeared friendly and wanted to trade with the whites, etc. The
+chief gave us a very strong invitation to go to their camp to trade and
+made signs that they would feed us well and we should sleep with them.
+I answered him by signs that we should camp when we arrived where the
+road crossed the Sweet Water but they were very anxious to have us then
+turn off the road and camp. After we started, the chief came up and
+wanted to swap a good mule for my spy glass but I refused. I had let
+him look through it and he seemed very wishful to try it. When they saw
+we were determined to go on, they left us and returned to their camp
+while we pursued our journey to the first crossing of Sweet Water where
+we arrived and camped at six o'clock, having traveled fourteen miles.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, August 30</h3>
+
+<p>This morning the cattle belonging to the camp behind came to us early,
+having strayed away. John Pack and Bailey Jacobs went to drive them
+back and to trade some with the Indians. We calculated to go on about
+eleven miles but before we started, Father Eldridge came up with his
+wagon and said he expected Spencer's 1st 50 company up soon. We then
+concluded to stay here until they arrived and about three o'clock,
+their wagons began to cross the creek. I was glad to find Aaron and
+Loren Farr, and William Walker in this company with their families all
+well and in good spirits. From Sister Olivia, I received some articles
+sent by my family which were very acceptable indeed and made me feel
+grateful. This company all appear well and cheerful and are not much
+troubled on account of lack of teams. I spent the evening with Loren
+and their families. The balance of our camp arrived before dark.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, August 31</h3>
+
+<p>Our camp except this ten has started on, but Brother Spencer has
+concluded to halt here today and I spent the day copying tables of
+distances for Loren and also gave him a plot of the city.</p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-18>September 1847</h2>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, September 1</h3>
+
+<p>We bid farewell to Brother Spencer's company and proceeded on. After
+traveling about a mile, we met P. P. Pratt going to see Brother
+Spencer and to get some cattle. He says some of the back companies
+have lost many head and can scarcely move. A few miles farther we met
+the 2nd 50 of Spencer's company. We traveled till nearly dark and
+camped with the returning pioneers at the cold spring, having traveled
+twenty-two and a quarter miles. The day fine and pleasant. We find the
+grass pretty much eaten off all the way. John G. Smith was appointed
+captain of the 2nd division in place of Shadrach Roundy who returns.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, September 2</h3>
+
+<p>Started about eight o'clock and after traveling two miles passed
+Russell's company of 50 and about five miles farther we passed Elder
+Rich's 50 and G. B. Wallace's 50. They all agree to the health and
+prosperity of their companies but have lost many cattle and have had
+hard work to get along. We passed Captains Foutz and Hone on this long
+drive with their companies all well, but complaining much for lack of
+teams. I conversed some with Edward Hunter and Elder Taylor. Brother
+Hunter will give cash for some cattle if he can buy them. We arrived on
+Sweet Water at six o'clock but the ox teams did not get in till eight
+o'clock, having traveled twenty-four and a half miles. The evening was
+very cold, windy and like for rain. Brother Roundy returned back to the
+valley this morning, having met his family.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, September 3</h3>
+
+<p>We started on this morning following the new road at the north side
+of the Sweet Water, the road sandy in places but much better than the
+old road. After traveling about two miles, we saw a lone buffalo about
+two miles to the south. John Pack and Lisbon Lamb went to try to kill
+him and finally succeeded, on which our ten halted and sent back a
+wagon for the meat which detained us about three hours, after which we
+proceeded again. A little before the road fords the river the second
+time, there is an alkali lake a little north from the road. We joined
+the company and also met J. B. Noble's company where the road
+joins the old one again. Brother Noble's company are all well and not
+so bad off for teams as some of the other companies. We proceeded on a
+few miles farther and met J. M. Grant with Willard Snow's 50 which
+is the last company on the road. Brother Grant had a child die last
+night and his wife is yet very sick and not much expected to recover.
+This company have lost many cattle and are so bad off for teams as not
+to be able to travel more than ten miles a day which would make it some
+day in October before they get through. We went on nearly two miles
+farther, then camped for the night near Bitter Cottonwood creek, having
+traveled fifteen and three quarters miles. Most of the company camped
+back with Brother Snow's company.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, September 4</h3>
+
+<p>We started late this morning and traveled over a very sandy road till
+five o'clock, then camped on Ravine Creek, having traveled sixteen
+miles.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, September 5</h3>
+
+<p>There being alkali springs near, we concluded to go to Independence
+Rock at which place we arrived about three o'clock having traveled
+twelve and a half miles. Soon after we camped, Lamb and Jacob Cloward
+went to chase some buffalo and succeeded in killing one. I walked over
+the rock and had some solemn meditations and felt to humble myself and
+call upon the Lord for myself and family, for this company, the twelve
+and all the companies on the road. Experience has taught me many maxims
+of late and I intend to profit by them. Be not hasty to promise, lest
+thy promise be considered worthless. Make not many promises without
+reflection, lest thou fail to fulfill them and it dampen the confidence
+of thy friend. If thou promise many things and regard not to fulfill
+them and it damp the confidence of thy friend, then be assured that thy
+friends will despise thy promises and have no dependence in them. Seek
+not to speculate out of a good brother.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, September 6</h3>
+
+<p>This morning the cattle were found down the Sweet Water about six miles
+from camp which made it late before we started. While passing the
+alkali lakes, a number of the brethren filled the bags with saleratus.
+We found the road very sandy to Greasewood Creek and after that it was
+somewhat better. About three o'clock the wind began to blow very strong
+and cold and we had heavy rain for about two hours.</p>
+
+<p>We proceeded on and arrived at the Willow Spring a little before dark
+in the midst of a heavy shower of rain. Thomas Cloward left one of the
+old oxen sent back by Wallace on the road. It died before morning.
+All except our ten and William's stayed back at Greasewood Creek. We
+tried in vain to make a fire but finally went to bed wet and cold,
+having eaten nothing since morning. Some of the teamsters have only a
+light summer coat with them and they suffer considerably. We traveled
+twenty-one and a half miles today.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, September 7</h3>
+
+<p>This morning our cattle were all missing and it still rains and snows
+very heavily. Pack and T. Cloward started early on foot to hunt the
+cattle but after following them over seven miles in the storm and
+seeing that they had kept on the road towards the Platte river, they
+returned to camp. It rained and snowed heavily till eleven o'clock at
+which time the balance of the camp arrived. John Pack asked the company
+to let us have some of their loose cattle to bring on our wagons till
+we overtook ours again, but the captains both generously refused for
+some cause or other. However, some of the brethren took their cattle
+out of their teams and let us have them and we moved onward. After
+traveling about thirteen miles we saw our cattle about four miles to
+the left of the road at the foot of a mountain. We halted and Lamb took
+one of the mules to fetch the cattle to the road. Soon after Pack and
+Jackson Redding came up and learning that we had found the cattle, they
+started to them to drive them to camp and Lamb being relieved, returned
+to the wagon. We harnessed up and arrived at the mineral spring about
+six o'clock, having traveled sixteen and a quarter miles. This spring
+has been represented as poisonous but if it is so, it must be in
+consequence of minerals under the water. The water has no bad taste
+till the cattle trample in it. It then becomes almost black as ink and
+this is probably what makes it poisonous.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, September 8</h3>
+
+<p>We started at eight o'clock and arrived at the Upper Platte ferry soon
+after twelve o'clock. We found N. Jacobs and company there hunting.
+We forded the river and found it about two feet deep in the channel.
+We halted on the banks about two hours at which time the whole camp
+arrived. We then proceeded on. The main company went about five miles
+but we went till we found a good camping place in a grove of timber on
+the banks of the river where the road runs through, then halted for
+night, having traveled nineteen miles.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, September 9</h3>
+
+<p>This morning Norton Jacob's company joined us at eight o'clock and
+we moved forward. Found the road rough, it being cut up by the other
+companies in wet weather. We arrived on Deer Creek about sundown and
+camped for the night, having traveled twenty-two and a quarter miles.
+The day fine and very pleasant. Joseph Hancock killed an elk which the
+brethren packed to camp on horseback about sixteen miles.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, September 10</h3>
+
+<p>We have had a strong southwest wind all night and the morning is
+somewhat cool. We started a little before eight o'clock and had good
+traveling. We saw many herds of buffalo but the hunters did not get
+any while passing. We arrived at the river A La Perle at three o'clock
+and camped for the night having traveled seventeen and a half miles.
+A while before dark, some of the men came in with a part of a buffalo
+which they killed. Lewis Barney also killed a young one which was
+considerably fat. The meat was all packed in on horses. One of the men
+killed a wolf out of which we got considerable grease for the wagons.
+It was decided to have a guard each night the remainder of the journey,
+every man to stand in his turn, four each night.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, September 11</h3>
+
+<p>Got up at twelve o'clock and stood guard till daylight. The morning
+very fine and pleasant. Three of the brethren arrived from the camp
+back and said that during the night before last the Indians had
+stolen sixteen or seventeen of their horses and they were in pursuit
+of them. We were detained some on account of several of the horses
+having rambled off, but about nine o'clock we started on and traveled
+to the La Bonte River, distance nineteen and a half miles. There are
+many buffalo around here also and although we have plenty of meat, the
+brethren continue to kill them. We find the feed eaten off bare almost
+every place we come to and it is difficult to find grass to sustain our
+teams.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, September 12</h3>
+
+<p>We traveled this day seventeen and three quarters miles and camped
+by Heber's Spring on Horseshoe Creek. We found the spring had ceased
+running but there was water in the creek a little north. The roadometer
+has broken down today over the same ground it broke as we went west.
+Our bread stuff is now out and we have to live solely on meat the
+balance of the journey. John Pack has got flour enough to last him
+through. We have all messed together until ours was eaten, and now John
+Pack proposes for each man to mess by himself. He has concealed his
+flour and beans together with tea, coffee, sugar, etc., and cooks after
+the rest have gone to bed. Such things seem worthy of remembrance for a
+time to come.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, September 13</h3>
+
+<p>We fixed the roadometer this morning, then traveled to Dead Timber
+Creek, distance fifteen miles. Here we find good feed and plenty of
+wood and water.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, September 14</h3>
+
+<p>Started at nine o'clock and traveled till about five, then camped on
+the Platte River, having traveled twenty-four and a quarter miles. In
+consequence of some things which have passed and some which at present
+exist, I have concluded to go on as fast as circumstances will permit
+to Winter Quarters and I intend to start tomorrow. Some have opposed
+it, but not with a good grace. However, I have no fears that the
+council will censure me when they know the cause. If they do, I will
+bear the censure in preference to what I now bear. Before dark Luke
+Johnson, William A. Empey and Appleton Harmon came up from Laramie,
+having learned from an Indian that wagons were near. They say that a
+party of Sioux warriors have got the brethren's horses, seventeen in
+number, on the Raw Hide, about eighteen miles north. They say that
+about fifty armed men might go and probably get them, but not fewer.
+The Sioux are at war with the Crows and Pawnees and reports say that
+there is a large party of the Pawnees a little down the river.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, September 15</h3>
+
+<p>We started a little after eight, forded the Platte without any
+difficulty and at three o'clock concluded to stop for the night, having
+traveled twenty-one and a quarter miles over very sandy road. The ox
+teams have kept nearly up with us and it is evident they intend to keep
+with us or kill their teams, and being aware that if the teams are
+injured we shall be blamed for it, we have given up going ahead to save
+the teams.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, September 16</h3>
+
+<p>Today we traveled nineteen and a half miles over good road and camped
+near the river amongst good grass.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, September 17</h3>
+
+<p>This morning Thomas Brown, Ezra Beckstead, Mathew Welch, Benjamin
+Roberts, David Perkins and William Bird started to go through to Winter
+Quarters in consequence of having no bread. We traveled nineteen and
+three quarters miles and camped again on the Platte. The road very good.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, September 18</h3>
+
+<p>Last night John Pack's gray horse was stolen from his wagon. He lays
+it to the brethren ahead and with Norton Jacobs and Joseph Hancock has
+heaped a pretty long string of severe abusive language on them which
+I consider to be premature, unjustifiable and wicked. Two Frenchmen
+came to the camp and said they were camped below on a trading excursion
+among the Sioux. Inasmuch as some of the brethren wanted to trade with
+them, it was concluded to move down opposite to them. We accordingly
+traveled four and a quarter miles then again camped on the banks of the
+river and the brethren bought a number of buffalo robes, etc. Norton
+Jacobs bought five robes for seven common calico shirts.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, September 19</h3>
+
+<p>The traders say they will move down the river today to where there are
+plenty of buffalo. Our camp also traveled ten and three quarters miles
+and camped a little below Chimney Rock. There are many herds of buffalo
+around and Lewis Barney killed one which will give us a little fresh
+meat. The weather has been very fine and warm for some days past. This
+evening there are some signs of stormy weather.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, September 20</h3>
+
+<p>Today we traveled seven and a quarter miles, the day very hot. We
+turned off the road to camp at Rubidoos' request while they killed some
+buffalo. They gave us some very nice meat.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, September 21</h3>
+
+<p>We have concluded to wait here until the balance of the company
+arrives. Afternoon went over the river and had a good feast on buffalo
+ribs with the Frenchmen. The victuals were cooked by a squaw but looked
+much cleaner than our men cook it. Evening it became cloudy and soon
+followed by cold rain which continued till two o'clock.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, September 22</h3>
+
+<p>At one o'clock, I got up to stand guard and found the night extremely
+cold and unpleasant on account of rain. The morning is cloudy and cold.
+The wagons have not yet come in sight which makes us think there is
+something the matter with them.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, September 23</h3>
+
+<p>Today Jackson Redding and Sanderson went back to see if they could see
+the other wagons. They returned at night and said the company were
+within a few miles having been detained at Laramie to recover their
+horses, most of which they got. They state that news has come to the
+fort by a Sioux Indian that the twelve and their company had all their
+horses stolen at the Pacific Springs during a snow storm. The Sioux
+stole them supposing them to belong to the Shoshones. The man that
+brought the news stole seventeen but lost eight in the mountains, the
+remainder he brought to Laramie and the brethren there knew some of
+them and demanded them. He gave them up, at least all they could prove
+and four of the brethren started with them to meet the twelve. The
+Indian says there were nine of them who stole the horses.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, September 24</h3>
+
+<p>We resumed our journey this morning and traveled thirteen and a half
+miles, then camped where the road runs close to the river. The weather
+is again fine and hot in the day time but the nights are cold and
+frosty. Joseph Hancock killed a buffalo cow and John Norton an antelope
+which will supply the company with a little meat each, most of whom are
+without.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, September 25</h3>
+
+<p>The day cloudy and some like for a storm. We made an early start and
+traveled to Crab Creek, distance twenty and a quarter miles then
+camped for the night. The land on both sides the river is literally
+spotted with vast herds of buffalo, but our hunters are not very lucky
+as yet. From the fact of there being so many buffalo in this region,
+we are inclined to believe we shall see but few lower down and this
+is probably the best chance we will have to lay in a supply to last
+us home. During the afternoon, Joseph Hancock killed a buffalo cow
+and Captain Rappleyee sent a wagon to fetch the meat to camp. When it
+arrived John Pack took the hind quarters and the best meat off the rest
+of the cow, together with all the tallow, then sent for Rappleyee to
+take what he had left and divide it amongst the company. When Rappleyee
+saw what he had done, he felt angry and Pack and he had some high words
+on the subject. Brother Pack's conduct has caused many unpleasant
+feelings against him among the brethren. He takes all the tallow he can
+lay his hands on, and all the best meat and has now got more than will
+serve him home while many of the rest have scarcely any and that of
+the poorest pieces. He has plenty of flour, meal, beans, tea, coffee,
+sugar, etc., while most of the camp are destitute of everything but
+meat, and while he continues to take the tallow and best of the meat
+there will be hard feelings against him. He has disgraced himself in
+the estimation of many within the past few days. I do not think I can
+ever forget him for his treatment of me, but I cherish no malice nor
+feelings of revenge, but I hope and pray that I may forever have wisdom
+to keep from under his power. There have been six or eight buffalo
+killed by the camp and it is intended to stay here tomorrow and try to
+get meat to last us through as it is not likely we shall have another
+privilege as good as this. Most of the camp now begin to feel that it
+is necessary for us to make our way home as fast as possible to save
+our teams and escape the cold rain and snowstorms.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, September 26</h3>
+
+<p>Many of the brethren are gone out hunting. The weather continues fine
+and warm. In the afternoon we had a strong northwest wind. During the
+day the second division killed more than enough meat to last them home,
+but were totally unwilling to let the first division have any although
+they killed none, not having but two or three guns in the division.
+This also has tended to increase the feeling of envy and bitterness
+which already exists too much. Thomas Cloward has manifested feelings
+and conduct worse than the general run of gentiles and unworthy of a
+saint. He seems to have drunk into Pack's spirit for they act very much
+alike.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, September 27</h3>
+
+<p>Those of the first division who have no meat have concluded to move
+on a few miles to where there are more buffalo as they have mostly
+left here, but the second division will not move till they have dried
+their meat some. We went on three miles and then camped where there
+are plenty of buffalo over the river. Lisbon Lamb, Lewis Barney and
+John Norton volunteered to go and kill what meat they can for those who
+have none. They have got enough to last them through. It is said that
+our coming down here has given feelings but it is plain and evident
+that there are several men who will find fault and deal out wholesale
+censure whatever is done, and for my part I shall remember John Pack,
+Thomas Cloward, Norton Jacobs and Joseph Hancock for some time to come.
+Such little, selfish, unmanly conduct as has been manifested by them,
+is rarely exhibited except by the meanest classes of society. A man who
+will openly and boldly steal is honorable when compared with some of
+their underhanded conduct. During the day the brethren killed five cows
+and one bull which are considered sufficient to last the first division
+home.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, September 28</h3>
+
+<p>We waited till after nine o'clock for the second division to come up
+but not being yet in sight we moved onward, traveled seventeen and a
+half miles, then camped on Sand Hill Creek about a mile from the river.
+We have seen more buffalo today than I ever saw in one day, supposed to
+be not less than 200,000. We had some trouble to make a road through
+them safely. We also saw two horses with the herd. Jackson Redding went
+to try and catch them but found them perfectly wild.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, September 29</h3>
+
+<p>We got an early start this morning and traveled till four o'clock,
+distance twenty and a quarter miles. We camped near the river in high
+grass. The road has run close to the river all day except a few miles
+beyond Castle Creek and although the ground is perfectly dry, it is
+very rough, it having been cut up in wet weather. Watch and Wolfe
+Creeks had abundance of water in them, as much as when we went up.
+Castle River was about a foot deep. We have not seen many buffalo today
+but after we camped, John Norton shot two at one shot. L. Barney also
+killed a young cow. The weather is yet fine and very warm.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, September 30</h3>
+
+<p>This day we traveled only sixteen and a quarter miles, then camped a
+quarter of a mile east of Rattlesnake Creek on the banks of the river.
+In this creek, there is still a very heavy current of water running. It
+appears that some of the brethren left their fires burning this morning
+and the prairie has caught fire and is still burning furiously.</p>
+
+<h2 id=calibre_link-23>October 1847</h2>
+
+<h3>Friday, October 1</h3>
+
+<p>This morning I wrote a short letter and left it in a post for the
+company behind. We traveled twenty miles and camped on Bluff Creek. The
+day fine and very warm.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, October 2</h3>
+
+<p>This morning we calculated to travel eleven miles, but on arriving at
+the North Bluff fork, we found no grass and were compelled to continue
+on. We traveled till the road strikes the river and some grass, then
+camped, having traveled eighteen and a half miles. Three buffalo have
+been killed today and there are considerable in this region. Two of the
+oxen gave out and had to be left on the road.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, October 3</h3>
+
+<p>This morning we traveled four and a quarter miles, then camped opposite
+some islands where there is pretty good feed and willows. The day has
+been exceedingly warm and the brethren have dried a good quantity of
+meat. Considerable anxiety and feeling has originated in the breasts
+of two or three brethren in consequence of a rumor being circulated
+which deeply concerns one individual but it is not known whom. In the
+evening, a strong north wind blew up which made it turn very cool.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, October 4</h3>
+
+<p>Cool and pleasant. We traveled twenty and three quarters miles and
+found that the last company have made a new road near the bluffs to
+avoid a very bad slough. We went a little on the old road and then
+struck across to the new road but had considerable difficulty in
+crossing the slough. We camped beside a small lake of not very good
+water and several miles from timber.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, October 5</h3>
+
+<p>Pleasant day. We traveled nineteen miles, then turned off the road
+about a half a mile to camp near a small bunch of timber. The brethren
+have killed a good many buffalo today. They are very plentiful here,
+and wolves abundant.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, October 6</h3>
+
+<p>The largest part of the company again concluded to tarry a day again
+although there is little feed here. Some determined to go on a piece
+and amongst the rest, I felt more willing to go on than to tarry.
+Accordingly eleven wagons started, viz. Jackson Redding, William
+A. Empey, Lewis Barney, Roswell Stevens, Cummings, Joseph Hancock,
+H. W. Sanderson, John Pack, Thos. Cloward, Zebedee Coltrin and
+Norton Jacobs. We traveled seventeen and a half miles and then turned
+off the road about a half a mile to camp.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, October 7</h3>
+
+<p>We started a little before 10:00 a.m. and traveled till nearly dark and
+had then to run over a mile from the road to camp. We traveled nineteen
+and a quarter miles. Wind very strong from the north and a very cold
+day.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, October 8</h3>
+
+<p>Just as we started this morning, twelve or fifteen Indians were seen
+running over the river towards us. They soon came up to the wagons
+which were somewhat scattered and although they shook hands, they
+showed savage hostility. Four of the oxen were not yet yoked up; these
+they drove off from the wagons which now began to draw together.
+They soon satisfied us that they were bent on robbing us and without
+ceremony took Jack Redding's horse from behind the wagon. Lamb went to
+take it from them and seized the lariat which another immediately cut
+with his knife. Lamb then got on the horse, but no sooner on than two
+Indians pulled him off and marched off with the horse. They stole Jack
+Redding's knife out of its sheath and one from John Pack. They also
+tried to get Jack off the horse he was riding, but he kept his seat.
+They tried Skeen's horse but he kicked one of them over. The Indians
+then tried to get the men out of their wagons so that they might get
+in and plunder, but every man kept in his wagon to guard it and we
+concluded to turn about and go back to the company. We accordingly
+started and the Indians turned back towards the timber with the horse,
+four oxen, two knives and a sack of salt. After traveling back about
+six miles, we met the company, told the story and bore their slang and
+insults without saying much, but not without thinking a great deal.
+The whole company were then formed in two lines. All the arms were
+loaded and each man that could raise a gun was ordered to walk beside
+the wagons, the horsemen to go ahead. We then proceeded on and when
+we came opposite to where we met with the Indians, the horsemen went
+down and found the oxen where we left them. They brought them and we
+traveled till dark, then camped near the river, having traveled five
+and a quarter miles from last night, exclusive of the distance we went
+back. A strong guard was placed around the cattle and camp and kept up
+through the night. Many hard speeches have passed among the brethren,
+such as "damned hypocrites," "damned liars," "mutineers," etc., and
+most of those who started ahead are ordered to travel in the rear all
+the time. This savage, tyrannical conduct was one thing which induced
+some to leave and undertake to go through alone and more peaceably
+and it will still leave feelings of revenge and hatred which will
+require some time to cover up. Young Babcock shook his fist in Zebedee
+Coltrin's face and damned him and said he could whip him. For my part,
+I shall be glad when I get in more peaceable society, and I think I
+shall not easily be caught in such a scrape again.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, October 9</h3>
+
+<p>We have had no disturbance from Indians. We started at six o'clock and
+went on five miles to get better feed. We then halted for breakfast.
+The remainder of the day's travel was mostly over dog towns. A United
+States soldier came up to the wagons and went with us a few miles. He
+says there are ninety of them on the island surveying and looking out a
+place to build a fort. We traveled seventeen and a quarter miles today,
+then camped near a low bench of land where there is plenty of grass and
+water and willows for fuel. A number of the soldiers came over to camp.
+They say the Pawnees are perfectly enraged and savage and that the
+worst band of between four and five hundred are on the north side the
+Platte about forty miles below.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, October 10</h3>
+
+<p>Morning fine but cold wind. The captains called the camp together and
+asked whether we shall wait here three days or a week for the twelve,
+or shall we continue on to Winter Quarters. Thirty men voted to go on,
+seventeen voted to wait and the remainder did not vote. The majority
+having voted to go on, we started and traveled very slowly till about
+five o'clock, then turned off to the river to camp, having traveled
+sixteen miles. There are many new tracks of Indians on the sand bar,
+but we have seen none today.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, October 11</h3>
+
+<p>Morning, cloudy and cold. We have had a little very cold rain and
+there is great appearance for more. We started on but it continued to
+rain heavily till near noon. The afternoon was fair but very cold. We
+traveled twenty-one and a quarter miles and camped amongst high grass
+close to timber. There is every chance for Indians tonight if any are
+near. The camp in general are much dissatisfied with the camping place.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, October 12</h3>
+
+<p>This morning the weather was severely cold with strong wind. Some of
+the cattle were missing and the owners not going to hunt them till the
+rest were ready to start on, we were detained till eleven o'clock and
+then proceeded. We found plenty of water in Wood River but did not lose
+much time crossing. We took one of the late wagon trails and arrived
+on Prairie Creek a little before sundown, having traveled fifteen and
+three quarters miles. We have seen no Indians yet and all goes well but
+the cold weather.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, October 13</h3>
+
+<p>Morning very cold indeed with strong northwest wind. We found the creek
+difficult to cross, it being soft and miry, but all soon got over
+safely and we proceeded on. The road is sandy about five or six miles
+on the bluffs and very crooked all the way. We arrived and camped on
+the Loup Fork at dark, having traveled twenty-one and three quarters
+miles. The day has been excessively cold.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, October 14</h3>
+
+<p>Much time was lost this morning in hunting for a place to cross the
+river. It was finally concluded to cross a mile higher up and we
+proceeded to the place. While going up we saw a company of horsemen and
+two wagons on the other side the river, which we soon recognized to be
+our brethren from Winter Quarters. All the wagons got over safely and
+camped on the hill, having traveled two miles. The company is a part of
+the old police going to meet the next company. We were gladdened with
+the news they bring from Winter Quarters.</p>
+
+<h3>Friday, October 15</h3>
+
+<p>The brethren of the police started early this morning to go on and meet
+the next company. They got well over the river but not without getting
+into the water to lift at the wagon wheels. It was late when we started
+on account of some oxen being missing and there are some who will not
+look for their cattle till all the rest are ready to start. We traveled
+till a little after three and camped on the banks of the Loup Fork,
+distance twelve and three quarters miles, day warmer.</p>
+
+<h3>Saturday, October 16</h3>
+
+<p>The night has been very stormy, there being a strong wind, rain, and
+very cold. We made an early start and by noon arrived at the mission
+station. We found the Pawnees busy gathering corn, probably nearly a
+thousand of men, women and children. They soon began to come to the
+wagons and their chiefs made inquiries by signs about the Chirrarots
+or Sioux. Some of the brethren gave them to understand that the Sioux
+were within five days of them. The chief immediately gave the word to
+the rest and in half an hour the squaws had loaded their corn on ponies
+and mules and then began to march towards the river. They show great
+fear of the Sioux. They were very anxious to have us camp with them
+tonight but we kept moving on. One of the wagons was upset crossing
+a ravine. Several of the brethren traded for corn. At three o'clock,
+we arrived and turned out the teams on Beaver River, having traveled
+seventeen and a quarter miles. Soon after we arrived, some of the
+Indians came up, having followed with the idea of trading. They have
+conducted themselves peaceably so far, but they are not to be trusted.
+In consequence of their following us, it was the feeling of most of the
+brethren to go on a few miles after dark. At 5:45 we started on and
+traveled till 8:30 being six and a half miles, then camped beside the
+lakes. Evening very fine and pleasant. We have traveled twenty-three
+and three quarters miles today.</p>
+
+<h3>Sunday, October 17</h3>
+
+<p>We started early and traveled to Looking Glass, then halted for
+breakfast. Morning windy and cold. After breakfast, we started on again
+and traveled till four o'clock, distance sixteen and a quarter miles,
+then camped at a point of timber near a creek or lake and not far from
+the Loup Fork.</p>
+
+<h3>Monday, October 18</h3>
+
+<p>Started at eight o'clock and traveled to Shell Creek distance eighteen
+and three quarters miles, day pleasant but cool.</p>
+
+<h3>Tuesday, October 19</h3>
+
+<p>The night was excessively cold and this morning there is considerable
+ice. We got an early start and traveled to where the road leaves the
+river and crosses to the Horn. At this place there is a liberty pole
+set up by some of the brethren. We have traveled today twenty-three and
+a quarter miles and we now find that the grass is all burned off ahead
+of us as far as we can see, probably to the Elk Horn. We are cheered by
+a view of the timber on that stream.</p>
+
+<h3>Wednesday, October 20</h3>
+
+<p>We started early and found the prairie all burned off to the Elk Horn
+except in small patches. We arrived at the Horn about noon and soon
+after commenced crossing where Hosea Stout and company crossed. The
+water was nearly three feet deep and the bottom somewhat soft, but we
+were soon all over without accident except John Pack, who broke his
+wagon tongue. We then had to make a road through high, strong grass for
+upwards of half a mile and found a very bad creek or slough to cross.
+When we again struck the main road, we found it good and started for
+the Papea where we arrived soon after dark, all except one wagon which
+was left a mile back. The evening cool and windy.</p>
+
+<h3>Thursday, October 21</h3>
+
+<p>This morning, Brother Empey, Lamb and myself started early accompanied
+by six horsemen and arrived in Winter Quarters a little before noon.
+I found my family all well except Moroni who is very sick and his
+mother is somewhat sick. Their circumstances are not good, but in
+other respects they have been prosperous for which I thank my God.
+There has been much sickness here and many deaths during the fall
+and many are now suffering for lack of some of the comforts of life.
+We have been prosperous on our journey home and have arrived in nine
+weeks and three days, including a week's delay waiting for the twelve
+and killing buffalo. Our health has been remarkably good, but we have
+lacked provisions, many of us having nothing but dry buffalo meat. I
+have succeeded in measuring the whole distance from the City of the
+Great Salt Lake to this place, except a few miles between Horse Creek
+and the A La Bonte River which was taken from the measurement going
+up. I find the whole distance to be 1,032 miles and am now prepared
+to make a complete traveler's guide from here to the Great Salt Lake,
+having been careful in taking the distance from creek to creek, over
+bluffs, mountains, etc. It has required much time and care and I have
+continually labored under disadvantages in consequence of the companies
+feeling no interest in it. The health of my family has encouraged me
+for all that is past and my secret gratitude shall ascend to Heaven for
+the unbounded kindness and mercies which the Almighty has continually
+poured upon them in my absence.</p>
+
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 45051 ***</div>
+</body>
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of William Clayton's Journal, by William Clayton

-

-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with

-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or

-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included

-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org

-

-

-Title: William Clayton's Journal

-       A Daily Record of the Journey of the Original Company of

-       "Mormon" Pioneers from Nauvoo, Illinois, to the Valley of

-       the Great Salt Lake

-

-Author: William Clayton

-

-Editor: Lawrence Clayton

-

-Release Date: March 2, 2014 [EBook #45051]

-

-Language: English

-

-Character set encoding: ASCII

-

-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WILLIAM CLAYTON'S JOURNAL ***

-

-

-

-

-Produced by the Mormon Texts Project. See

-http://mormontextsproject.org/ for a complete list of

-Mormon texts available on Project Gutenberg, to help

-proofread similar books, or to report typos.

-

-

-

-

-

-

-William Clayton's Journal

-

-A Daily Record of the Journey of the Original Company of "Mormon"

-Pioneers from Nauvoo, Illinois, to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake

-

-

-Copyright 1921 by Lawrence Clayton, trustee for the Clayton Family

-Association.

-

-

-Electronic edition produced by the Mormon Texts Project. To report

-typos or formatting errors, you can email mormontextsproject@gmail.com.

-

-Volunteers who helped with this book: Eric Heaps, Meridith Crowder, Ben

-Crowder, Tod Robbins, David Van Leeuwen, Lili DeForest, Jude Ogzewalla,

-Byron Clark.

-

-Version 1.0

-

-

-

-Foreword

-

-William Clayton was one of the remarkable characters of early Utah

-history. Born in the county of Lancashire, England, July 17, 1814,

-he was educated in one of the schools of his native town, and grew

-to manhood with a love for books and nature. An early convert of

-the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, he conducted one

-of the first companies from England to Nauvoo, and there became one

-of the trusted secretaries of the Prophet Joseph Smith. With the

-exodus from Nauvoo, he was Clerk of the Camp of Israel, and when the

-Mormon pioneers left Winter Quarters in April, 1847, he was appointed

-by Brigham Young one of the historians of that noted company. His

-journal of that memorable expedition over the plains is one of the

-most valuable diaries we have of that early period of western history.

-He kept careful account of the distances traveled each day, and his

-writings are full of descriptions of the country over which they

-traveled. He has noted the topography, the fauna and flora of the

-trail; and his descriptions of the activities of the company indicate

-a well trained intellect in social study. His language is simple and

-direct, and his care in keeping each day's distance and important facts

-of the journey show order and method.

-

-His hymn, "Come, come, ye Saints" takes its place as one of the most

-beautiful hymns of western history, for it is full of joyfulness,

-and expresses an optimism and faith in God that will always be an

-inspiration to the one who sings it. It indicates that William Clayton

-had much of the artistic in him, although we do know that he took a

-virile part in the activities of life.

-

-His journal should be read by all people who are interested in the

-west's development. It is certainly one of the distinct contributions

-of that early day, and shows that a man of strength of character wrote

-it. It will inspire many people to a greater love and regard for the

-work of the pioneers of Utah.

-

- Levi Edgar Young

- Salt Lake City, Utah

- April 1921

-

-

-

-William Clayton

-

-Born in England, 1814; died in Utah, 1879

-

-The Claytons of England originally came from France. During the time

-when William the Conqueror and King Harold were quarreling, a call came

-from the former for volunteers among his chieftains to go to war. A man

-named Robert was among those who responded. Robert was skilled in arms.

-

-After the Battle of Hastings in 1066, in which Robert rendered heroic

-service, William the Conqueror conferred upon him the English Manor of

-Clayton as a mark of merit. Robert was afterwards known as Robert de

-Clayton and Lord of the Manor of Clayton. From Lord Robert Clayton came

-all the Claytons of England and America and by genealogical research,

-the line has been brought down to the subject of this sketch.

-

-William Clayton was born July 17, 1814, in the village of Charock

-Moss, Township of Penwortham, County Palatine of Lancaster, England.

-He was the son of Thomas and Ann Critchley Clayton, who were born in

-Lancashire, England. William was the eldest of fourteen children. Three

-of these children died in infancy and were buried in England. Through

-the influence of the eldest son, the father, mother and surviving

-children joined the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and

-came to America. The mother died in Nauvoo, Illinois, July 15, 1848,

-and the father in St. Louis, Missouri, June 16, 1849. A brother James

-died in Winter Quarters, November 28, 1847. The remainder of his

-brothers and sisters survived the persecutions of mobs and the early

-privations of the Church and came to the valley of the Great Salt Lake

-with the pioneers of Utah.

-

-William Clayton first heard the Gospel preached in England by Heber

-C. Kimball and Orson Hyde. With his wife, Ruth Moon Clayton, whom he

-married in England, October 9, 1836, he listened to the teachings of

-these missionaries, but he was not easy to convert. His wife received

-the Gospel first, and many evenings had to be spent before William

-Clayton became a believer in "Mormonism." He was ordained a Priest

-December 25, 1837, and a High Priest, April 1, 1838, at which time he

-was appointed with Willard Richards, Counselor to Joseph Fielding who

-presided over the Church in Europe.

-

-September 8, 1840, he left England in the packet ship _North America_,

-arriving in New York, October 11, 1840, and in Nauvoo, November 24,

-1840. In this city, he became a trusted friend of the founders of

-the Church, so much so that on February 10, 1842, he was appointed

-secretary to Joseph Smith the Prophet. October 7, 1842, he became

-Temple Recorder and Recorder of Revelations. In 1842, he became

-Treasurer of the City of Nauvoo. These appointments are indicative of

-the zeal with which William Clayton served the Church throughout his

-life.

-

-What of the personal characteristics of our subject? As will appear

-from his portrait on the frontispiece, William Clayton did not tend

-to frivolity or mirth but rather to seriousness and earnestness. Yet

-he was witty and had a keen sense of humor. In the home he was not

-demonstrative; although he had great love for his home and family and

-provided well for their comfort. He was methodical, always sitting in

-his own arm chair, having a certain place at the table and otherwise

-showing his love for order, which he believed the first law of heaven.

-His person was clean and tidy; his hands small and dimpled. He wore

-very little jewelry but what little he had was the best money could

-buy. He would not carry a watch that was not accurate, and his clothing

-was made from the best material. His children remember him best in

-black velvet coat and grey trousers and, in cold weather, a broad-cloth

-cloak in place of overcoat.

-

-The man-timber in William Clayton came from sturdy trees. His character

-was above all littleness. He believed that what was good for him was

-good for all men, and that the measurement of our lives was based upon

-our daily conduct towards each other. To him that was God's standard.

-He believed in perfect equity in the adjustment of the affairs of

-life. Had he loved money, he could probably have had it because of his

-education and executive ability. But he cared little for material gain,

-centering his zeal in the pursuit of honor and right.

-

-William Clayton was honest and nothing to him could justify an untruth.

-He deplored waste or extravagance, yet he never withheld from a

-neighbor in distress, or from the widow or orphan. Many are those who

-knew his generosity. When his harvest was gathered, bushels of grain

-and fruit found place among those of scanty store. And many pairs of

-shoes and much warm clothing were given to comfort the needy. Nor was

-the homeless forgotten, but the orphan was given a home and joy by his

-own fireside.

-

-His religion was deeply rooted and nurtured by association with and

-testimony of an eye witness to the living God. His love for Joseph

-Smith was love seldom shown in man for man. Few men possessed stronger

-faith and courage. These qualities alone could inspire a man under

-heart-rending circumstances, to write such hymns of faith and comfort

-as "Come, come, ye Saints," and "The Resurrection Day."

-

-The record of William Clayton in Utah kept pace with that of previous

-years. His home was open always to his friends who loved to gather

-there for social hours. Civic welfare always interested him. He was a

-musician and played in the pioneer orchestra and that of the Salt Lake

-Theatre. He was a lover of community features and took part in dramatic

-functions.

-

-He was treasurer of Zion's Cooperative Mercantile Institution, Recorder

-of Marks and Brands, Receiver of Weights and Measures, and was

-Territorial Auditor. His love for education prompted many sacrifices

-and he tried hard to give his children the essentials of good schooling.

-

-He had a strong will, although a tender conscience. Cowardice had no

-place in him. Truly he could say, "My heart is fixed. I know in whom I

-trust." Joseph Smith believed that they should meet and associate in

-the Celestial Kingdom of God as they had here.

-

-William Clayton died December 4, 1879, in Salt Lake City. Services were

-held in the Seventeenth Ward Chapel at which his own funeral hymn was

-sung. He left a large posterity.

-

- Victoria C. McCune

- Salt Lake City, Utah, June, 1921

-

-

-

-Editor's Note

-

-The descendants of William Clayton have in recent years formed

-themselves into an organization known as the Clayton Family

-Association. This book is offered to the public by the Association

-with the thought that a document of such faithful description and fine

-spirit would be welcomed by all people who might be interested either

-in the Pioneer Period of Western History or more particularly in the

-exodus of the Mormon people from Missouri to the valley of the Great

-Salt Lake. It is difficult to understand why the _Journal_ was not

-published years ago and it seems to require somewhat of an apology

-that this interesting record should have remained so long unknown and

-be now brought out with considerable haste. In the effort to have it

-ready for distribution to the members of the Clayton Family Association

-on the anniversary of the birth of their forefather on July 17th,

-there has been a sacrifice of care and deliberation in the preparation

-of this first edition which is hoped the reader will overlook upon

-consideration of the facts. This lack of time and care will show itself

-more in the text than in any other particular. Much of the proof

-reading was done by the undersigned on board train between Salt Lake

-and California. To say the least, such surroundings are not conducive

-to the most finished work. It is hoped that this circumstance will also

-make the reader more tolerant when encountering mistakes in the text,

-obviously the result of hasty proof reading. At a later date a second

-edition will do better justice to the author of the _Journal_ and will

-show more consideration for the fine taste of the reader.

-

- Lawrence Clayton

- Salt Lake City, Utah, June, 1921

-

-

-

-Table of Contents

-

-February 1846

-

-March 1846

-

-April 1846

-

-May 1846

-

-June 1846

-

-July 1846

-

-August 1846

-

-September 1846

-

-November 1846

-

-January 1847

-

-February 1847

-

-April 1847

-

-May 1847

-

-June 1847

-

-July 1847

-

-August 1847

-

-September 1847

-

-October 1847

-

-

-

-February 1846

-

-_Nauvoo, Illinois_

-

-Sunday, February 8

-

-At the office all day packing public goods, evening at Farr's writing

-out a letter of instruction to trustees.

-

-Monday, February 9

-

-At the office packing. At 3:30 the temple was seen on fire. Women

-carrying water.

-

-Tuesday, February 10

-

-At the temple packing, also Wednesday 11th.

-

-Thursday, February 12

-

-At home preparing to move.

-

-Friday, February 13

-

-Sent four loads of goods over the river. Loading and packing.

-

-Saturday, February 14

-

-Packing and seeking letters.

-

-Sunday, February 15

-

-Riding around to get teams and things together. Sent two teams over the

-river.

-

-Monday, February 16

-

-Still loading teams, also Tuesday 17th.

-

-Wednesday, February 18

-

-Got about ready to go over the river. Evening President Brigham Young,

-Heber C. Kimball, J. M. Grant and some of the pioneers came to hurry

-us over. N. K. Whitney also came in. We conversed together some. They

-state the brethren have made a perfect waste of food and property in

-the camp.

-

-Thursday, February 19

-

-This morning the ground is covered with snow. It is so windy they

-cannot cross the river. Continued to snow all day. Evening went to

-Elder Babbit's to supper with Elder Kimball. President Young was there,

-Backenstos, J. M. Grant and some others.

-

-Friday, February 20

-

-The weather is very cold and windy. Impossible to cross the river.

-Spent the day running after things to get ready, fixing wagons and

-chopping fire wood.

-

-Friday, February 27

-

-We have spent the past week waiting for crossing over the [Mississippi]

-river. It has been hard frost and much snow. This morning I concluded

-to start over the river and began early to send my teams. About noon I

-crossed with my family and then rested the teams and soon after went

-on to the camp where we arrived a little before four o'clock. Bishop

-Whitney concluded to stay at the river until morning because some of

-his teams could not get over. When we got to the camp we were received

-with joy and formed in the company of the band. The weather is still

-very cold especially during the night. The distance from Nauvoo to this

-place is called seven and a half miles.

-

-Saturday, February 28

-

-A.M. arranging my tents, etc. At twelve was sent for to council and

-about two the band was requested to go and meet bishop Whitney and his

-teams. We went and met him five miles from the camp. We played some

-time and then returned to the camp. President Young, Heber C. Kimball,

-P. P. Pratt, Orson Pratt and others accompanied us. At night played

-with the band.

-

-

-

-March 1846

-

-Sunday, March 1

-

-A.M. preparing to march to the next encampment. At ten a lecture was

-given by Elder Kimball and about one the company proceeded to the next

-camp about four and a half miles, where we arrived in good season.

-

-Monday, March 2

-

-Started this morning for another camp about eight miles where we

-arrived about five p.m., the roads being somewhat hilly and muddy. The

-band played at night. During the day the artillery company broke into

-our ranks several times and broke a number of our wagon boxes. At night

-they complained of us at headquarters, but after hearing our story the

-matter stood about right.

-

-Tuesday, March 3

-

-Proceeded on our journey through Farmington about eight miles to a

-place where bishop Miller was encamped and arrived in good season. The

-band played at night.

-

-Wednesday, March 4

-

-This morning we concluded to stay a day and fix up some wagons which

-were broken. A number of the citizens from Farmington came to the camp

-and gave a very pressing invitation for the band to go to Farmington

-and play some. Accordingly about three o'clock, the band started and

-arrived at Farmington about 4:30 p.m. We played at the principal hotel

-and then went to the school house and played till nearly dark. The

-house was filled with men and women, the leading people of the place.

-We then returned to the hotel where they had provided us with a good

-supper. They also gave us $5 in money. John Kay sang a number of songs.

-At eight o'clock we returned and when we left they gave us three

-cheers. When we arrived at the camp we met thirty of the guard just

-starting out to meet us. The President felt uneasy at our staying so

-long and was sending the men to protect us.

-

-Thursday, March 5

-

-Proceeded on our journey. Crossed the Des Moines river at Bonaparte and

-afterwards had a very bad road up the bluff for several miles which

-detained us until late in the afternoon. We stopped awhile to feed the

-band teams inasmuch as they had none this morning. We then started and

-went to the next camping ground, making the day's journey about sixteen

-miles.

-

-Saturday, March 7

-

-Proceeded about eight miles to a camp ground near to a Dr. Elberts

-where the band camped. President Young was behind and when he arrived

-he went on about eight miles farther. The band went to work splitting

-rails for corn and made before dark, about 1:30. In the evening Dr.

-Elbert and some others came to hear the band play. Kay sang some songs

-which pleased them.

-

-Sunday, March 8

-

-Waited for orders from headquarters. Many of the citizens came to hear

-the band play and gave us a very pressing invitation to go to Keosaugua

-and give a concert. About noon word came that we should follow on to

-the camp. We immediately struck tents and started and we arrived at

-the main camp about five o'clock. Some of the citizens from Keosaugua

-followed us waiting for an answer whether we would give a concert as

-soon as we arrived at the camp. I asked the President whether the band

-should go to Keosaugua to give a concert. He advised us to go and I

-immediately sent out the appointment and then we pitched our tents

-forming a line on the road opposite to the President's company.

-

-Monday, March 9

-

-Spent the day chiefly preparing for the concert and attending on my

-family.

-

-Tuesday, March 10

-

-The weather still continues fine. Spent the morning preparing for

-the concert and about one o'clock p.m. started in company with the

-brass band for Keosaugua. I rode in Elder Kimball's wagon with

-William Kimball, J. Smithies and Wm. Pitt. The distance from the camp

-to Keosaugua is about ten miles, the camp being at a place called

-Richardson's point. We arrived at Keosaugua about three o'clock and

-being requested we went through the town and played some. One of the

-grocery keepers invited us to play him a tune which we did. He then

-invited us in and offered to treat us to anything he had. We each took

-a little and then the next grocery keeper sent an invitation for us

-to play him a tune. We did so and he also gave us anything he had. A

-beer keeper next sent word that he did not want us to slight him and

-we went and played him a tune and then took some of his cake and beer.

-We then marched up to the Des Moines hotel near the court-house where

-we had ordered supper and after eating we went to the courthouse to

-prepare for the concert. At seven o'clock the house was crowded and we

-commenced, playing and singing till about 9:30. The audience seemed

-highly pleased and gave loud applause. About the close one of the

-citizens got up and said it was the wish of many that we should repeat

-the concert the following evening and he took a vote of all who wished

-us to go again. The vote was unanimous. We made nearly $25.00 clear of

-all expenses. We started back for the camp soon after ten and arrived

-about one o'clock all well and pleased.

-

-Wednesday, March 11

-

-In the morning I reported to President Young our success and the

-request of the citizens of Keosaugua and he advised us to go again. We

-accordingly started about eleven o'clock. I again rode with William

-Kimball, Horace Whitney and James Smithies. When we arrived we were

-welcomed again with the same kind feelings as yesterday. Pitt had a

-severe chill all the way and when we got there it commenced raining

-and made it very unpleasant. The house was again filled but we only

-made $20.00 besides all expenses. We learned that there is a party of

-socialists there and they and the priests are much opposed to each

-other. We also learned that a man named McCully was in jail close by

-under sentence to be hung on the 4th of April for murdering a man and a

-child. I did not feel so well at the concert as on the night previous

-on several accounts. We started back between eleven and twelve and got

-to the camp about three o'clock.

-

-Thursday, March 12

-

-The band moved to better ground about one quarter of a mile farther.

-The heavy rains had made it very muddy and unpleasant, all our bedding

-and things being wet.

-

-Friday, March 13

-

-Went hunting.

-

-Saturday, March 14

-

-Wrote a letter to Diantha.

-

-Sunday, March 15

-

-In camp all day.

-

-Monday, March 16

-

-Some of the citizens of Keosaugua came again to request us to give

-another concert. We agreed to go tomorrow evening.

-

-Tuesday, March 17

-

-Started for Keosaugua with Pitt, Hutchinson, Kay, Smithies and Egan.

-I took my music box and china to try and sell them. We arrived in

-good season and soon learned that the priests had been hard at work

-preventing the sectarians from coming to the concert, saying that it

-was an infidel move consequently there were not many present. We had

-far the best concert which lasted till nine o'clock. We then went over

-to the hotel, took supper and played for a private party till about

-three o'clock. We only cleared from both, about $7.00 over expenses but

-were well treated.

-

-Wednesday, March 18

-

-It rained last night and this morning again and we almost concluded

-to go to Fairfield, but finally determined to return to camp. We

-visited with a Mr. Bridgman who treated us very kindly. Bought about

-eight bushels of beans and some articles for President Young and then

-returned to camp. It rained some again today. We got back about five

-o'clock. After dark Dr. Elbert came to see my china and said if I would

-take it over tomorrow he would buy it.

-

-Thursday, March 19

-

-Went to ask council whether I should go to sell my china. Saw Heber who

-advised me to go. A few of us started and soon met President Young who

-said we had better go back and go with the camp who were then starting

-on their way. We accordingly turned back our horses and struck tents in

-a hurry. At twelve o'clock we started on our journey. After traveling

-about six or seven miles we had to go up a very bad bluff which took

-us till five o'clock. President Young's company went ahead of us and

-camped three miles from the bluff. Some of our teams gave out and we

-only went about a mile from the bluff and camped in a little point of

-timber a little from the road. Our teams were very tired.

-

-Saturday, March 21

-

-We started early in the morning and soon came up with the main body of

-the camp. I rode ahead about three miles to hunt my cow. We did not

-have her last night being with the main camp. We traveled nine or ten

-miles and then rested our teams. We started again and traveled three

-miles farther where we found the President and Heber camped on the

-brink of a long bluff. We concluded to go to the other bank which we

-did and camped in a good place. In the evening the band went and played

-for the President and Heber and then went to a farmer's house at the

-owner's request about three quarters of a mile from camp to play for

-his family. He promised to give us some honey if we would play for

-him. We played about an hour and then left but neither saw nor heard

-anything of the honey. We learned afterwards, however, that Hutchinson

-had a pail under his cloak and got it full of honey after the rest had

-left the house and kept it to himself, very slyly.

-

-Sunday, March 22

-

-Started again and soon came to the Shariton bottoms which is a very low

-land for about four miles. The road was bad and it took us sometime to

-cross. While on the bottom Root and Davis came again. Root had asked

-permission of President Young to go back to his family some days ago

-but it seems things did not go to suit him and he followed his team

-again. It took sometime to go up the bluff. We had to let the teams

-down into the Shariton river by ropes and also helped them up again by

-the same means. Our company got over in good season but we concluded

-to camp after getting up the bluff as it would take till night for the

-whole to get up. I spent the day helping the teams till I was so sore

-and tired I could scarcely walk.

-

-Monday, March 23

-

-In council with Brigham, Heber, and others. We found that Miller's

-company had gone still farther about eight miles instead of waiting

-till we overtook them so that we could organize. I wrote a letter to

-them saying if they did not wait or return to organize, the camp would

-organize without and they be disfellowshiped. We concluded to stay at

-this place a few days to buy corn to last to Grand river but we found

-corn scarce and 26c a bushel, the farmers having advanced on account of

-a disposition to speculate.

-

-Tuesday, March 24 and Wednesday, March 25

-

-At the camp writing, etc. It rained considerably.

-

-Thursday, March 26

-

-Evening in council. Wrote a long letter to be sent to Emmet's company

-by John Butler and James W. Cummings. This morning wrote another

-letter to P. P. Pratt, Orson Pratt, George Miller telling them

-they must wait for us or come back to organize. The letters were sent

-by Smithies. He met them on the way and about noon P. P. Pratt,

-Orson Pratt, John Kay and G. Miller came into camp and at 1:00 p.m.

-the council met. The brethren plead that the charges in the letters

-were unjust. They had not striven to keep out of the way but had done

-all for the best. The whole camp accordingly was organized, A. P.

-Rockwood over 1st 50; Stephen Markham, 2nd 50; Young, 3rd 50; Howard

-E. Kimball, 4th 50; Charles C. Rich, 5th 50; Charles Crisman, 6th 50.

-Each fifty had also appointed a contracting commissary for the purpose

-of contracting for work and grain as follows: Henry Sherwood 1st 50;

-David H. Kimball 2nd; Wm. H. Edwards 3rd; Peter Haws 4th; Joseph

-Worthen 5th; Samuel Gully 6th. It was understood that I continue to

-preside over the band and in the absence of Brother Haws over the whole

-fifty. After this there was appointed for each fifty a distributing

-commissary to distribute feed in camp as follows: Charles Kennedy for

-1st 50; J. M. Grant 2nd 50; Nathan Tanner 3rd 50; Orson B. Adams

-4th 50; James Allred 5th 50; Isaac Allred 6th 50. The brethren then

-gave the following instructions for the whole camp with orders that

-same be observed hereafter, viz. No man to set fire to prairies. No man

-to shoot off a gun in camp without orders. No man to go hunting unless

-he is sent and all to keep guns, swords and pistols out of sight. There

-was then appointed a clerk for each fifty as follows: John D. Lee

-Young, 1st 50; John Pack 2nd 50; Lorenzo Snow 3rd 50; Geo. H. Hales 4th

-50; John Oakley 5th 50; A. Lathrop 6th 50. The council then adjourned

-to meet at Shariton Ford camp on Monday at 10 a.m. We then returned to

-our camp where we arrived just at dark.

-

-Saturday, March 28

-

-In camp making out forms for clerks of 50's and also copied letter to

-James Emmet.

-

-Sunday, March 29

-

-Making forms for clerks of 50's and felt quite unwell all day with bad

-cold.

-

-Monday, March 30

-

-Met with the council. The guard and pioneers were divided and

-distributed amongst the several companies of 50's. It was also agreed

-that company No. 4 should go on to the next camp tomorrow and the

-remainder of the day following. Jackson Redding sold one of Keller's

-horses for one yoke of oxen, leaving me as bad off for teams as before.

-

-Tuesday, March 31

-

-It was concluded we could not get ready to move until tomorrow.

-O. P. Rockwell arrived with the mail. I received a letter from

-Diantha and father. President Young received one from the trustees,

-one from Matlock and one from E. Pratt which I read in council. I was

-ordered to write an answer to the trustees' and Matlock's letter, but

-being late I left it till morning when I was quite unwell. I got two

-new teamsters, Levi Kendall and Swap.

-

-

-

-April 1846

-

-Wednesday, April 1

-

-President Young also sent me two yoke of oxen, wagon, and Brother

-Jones, the owner, to assist me. We divided the load out of the spare

-wagons putting a yoke of oxen to each and about 11:00 started on our

-journey. Mother was very sick, and could not bear to ride. She walked

-all the way. I felt very unwell myself, having much pain in my limbs.

-The roads were bad, but we arrived in camp about 2:00 and got on good

-ground. After getting our tents fixed, fires made, etc., I went to

-wrestling, jumping etc., to try to get well. I over-exerted myself

-without any symptoms of perspiration and was so sick after I had to go

-to bed.

-

-Thursday, April 2

-

-I was very sick all day and unable to write the letters or meet with

-the council. O. P. Rockwell started back to Nauvoo with letters.

-One of the Brother Hales arrived to say to his brother who drives team

-for Pitt that his family is very sick and wants him to go back but

-we cannot spare the team and he says it is no use for him to go back

-without it. At night I wrote again to Diantha and sent it by Brother

-Hale who returns tomorrow.

-

-Friday, April 3

-

-This morning it was decided to start early so as to get over the bad

-roads and also travel about fifteen miles. We had to send a wagon and

-team to fetch the eight bushels of corn which some of the band earned

-by playing last night. We started, however, about eight o'clock. The

-roads were very bad and when we had traveled about three miles it began

-to thunder and rain. The clouds gathered fast and it soon showed signs

-for heavy rain the whole day. We reached Bishop Whitney's camp about

-noon and rested our teams while the rest came up. We then started again

-in the heavy rain and bad roads and traveled about three miles to

-Bishop Miller's camp. We had a very bad bluff to rise and had to double

-teams to get up. On the top I met Heber camped. He selected a camping

-ground for us and advised us to go no farther. President Young has gone

-on six or seven miles. It was about 5:00 before all our teams got up

-and it rained heavily all the time. Mother walked all day again in the

-rain. I was very sick myself and unable to do anything. Yesterday the

-portion of the guard detailed to our company joined in with us, being

-Orvil M. Allen and eight men. They reported themselves destitute of

-everything and said they had lived a week on corn meal gruel, Stout and

-Hunter having made them serve as their body guard and used them very

-hard. I dealt out some of my own flour and bacon to them, determined

-to comfort them some if I could and not being willing to see anyone in

-our company suffer while I have anything left. It continued to rain all

-night very hard.

-

-Saturday, April 4

-

-This morning all our clothing, beds and bed clothing were drenched

-and it has continued to rain all day. I have been sick again all day

-especially towards night. I was so distressed with pain it seemed as

-though I could not live. I went to bed and put a bag of hot salt on my

-chest which seemed to give me some ease but I suffered much through

-the night, and it continued to rain until after midnight. We put an

-extra cover on our sleeping wagon, which kept out the rain. We have

-only slept in the wagon three nights but have slept under a tent on the

-wet ground. Haws' company are now formed with us, making our 50 nearly

-complete. A number of the company feel unwell on account of the rain

-and wet.

-

-Sunday, April 5

-

-This morning I feel a little better and the day is fine and pleasant.

-I have spent the day writing in this journal, having written from

-memory all since the date of March 9th. Some of the dates may not be

-correct but the matters recorded are true. It is now 1:00 p.m. There

-is a meeting at Elder Kimball's camp but I am sent here in this wagon

-to fetch up this record. My health is somewhat better for which I

-feel thankful. Elder Kimball says we had better not attempt to move

-tomorrow. We can get corn within ten miles from here and he will help

-us to means. We have now to lay in corn to last till we get to Grand

-River about fifty miles farther, there being no farms on the road. On

-Friday evening I appointed Charles Terry captain of my ten and Henry

-A. Terry clerk and my brother James to attend on my family agreeable

-with the orders of the President that I may be able to spend my time

-writing for the council and camp and attend councils. Elder Kimball

-instructed the captains of tens to call their companies together at

-4:00. Agreeable with this, the band assembled in front of my tent and

-administered the sacrament. Wm. F. Cahoon and Charles A. Terry

-officiated. I spoke about three quarters of an hour on various subjects

-touching on our journey and the policy we ought to use, etc. After I

-had done Elder Haws spoke on some subjects and the meeting adjourned.

-The captains then went over to Elder Kimball's camp about sending for

-corn. We concluded to send four teams for our 50, Captain Egan and Haws

-then went through the camp to see if they could obtain some money. Haws

-obtained $31.45 and Egan $9.00. I sent $14.00 by Egan for some. Wrote

-to Diantha.

-

-Monday, April 6

-

-It has rained again the last night and continued to rain all day very

-heavily. The camp is very disagreeable and muddy. I spent the day

-reading. About 5:00 the clouds began to break and it looks more likely

-for being fair. In the evening Elder Kimball came over and the band met

-opposite Hutchinson's wagon and played some. After that the quadrille

-band met in my tent and played on the violins. All the time we were

-playing the lightning occasionally broke forth from the northwest and

-at 8:00 we dispersed just as the storm approached. Before I got to my

-tent the wind arrived and soon blew a perfect gale with heavy rain,

-hail, lightning and thunder. It continued for an hour and then abated

-some. All the tents in our company except mine and Pack's were blown

-down. The rain beat through the wagon covers and drenched the families

-and effects. It was the most severe storm we have experienced and with

-such wind it seems impossible to preserve our little clothing and

-provisions from being spoiled. But in the midst of all, the camp seems

-cheerful and happy and there are but few sick.

-

-Tuesday, April 7

-

-This morning it is fair but cold and windy. The ground is frozen stiff

-and considerable ice. Many of the tents are still lying flat and

-everything around shows that the storm was very severe. A number of the

-band have no meat and some no flour nor in fact scarcely any provisions

-and several have had little, only what I have given them out of the

-stock I laid in for my family. I have this morning given the guard

-the bag of flour Miller left and a piece of pork and also a piece to

-Redding. The day continued fine but roads almost impassable. Evening

-the band played some.

-

-Wednesday, April 8

-

-This morning the ground was hard again. But the weather looks more for

-rain. I went out with Captain Cahoon and President Haws to look out a

-better camp ground and we concluded to move on a little farther west

-about a quarter of a mile. It took the company all day to move, it

-being almost impossible to move the loads even with tripling teams.

-About five o'clock Egan and the teams came back with fifty-seven

-bushels of corn. He had to give 21c a bushel for nearly all of it.

-Elder Kimball came over soon after to see if he could not get some of

-it. While we were talking President Pratt and his company arrived and

-reported that their teams have had no corn since yesterday morning

-neither could they get any. Heber remarked that he would say no more

-about us letting him have any although we had only enough to feed five

-ears a feed every three days, and a journey of about fifty miles before

-we can get any more with bad roads. We let Parley have one load. Heber

-came with me to our camp and handed me a letter from President Young

-requesting us all to go on which I read to the company. I felt very

-unwell again and went to bed early.

-

-Thursday, April 9

-

-This morning we concluded to pursue our journey, President Kimball and

-his company started out about seven o'clock. President Pratt started

-out with his company. Our company waited for the latter to start in

-its place till after eight o'clock and then we went on. The roads were

-very bad indeed. About noon it commenced raining heavily which made

-the roads still worse. We had calculated to go about eight miles to

-timber but after toiling till about four o'clock and having traveled

-only about five miles and our teams being entirely worn down we turned

-out of the road to a little branch of water to camp. Several of my

-teams stuck and we had to work till dark to get part of them to camp

-and two wagons we were compelled to leave over night. Quite a number

-were obliged to stay back on the prairie and Charles Hale did not come

-more than a quarter of a mile from where we started this morning. Elder

-Kimball has camped one and a half miles farther on the open prairie and

-many of his teams are yet behind. P. P. Pratt's company are here

-with us as well as George Miller's company except those behind on the

-prairie. It continued to rain very heavily until night. We could not

-make a fire and had little for supper, our provisions being in one of

-the wagons back. This is the most severe time we have had but yet the

-camp seems in good spirits.

-

-Friday, April 10

-

-The weather is yet very wet and gloomy. I spent the morning talking to

-Margaret. At seven o'clock a gale struck up and blew our tents over.

-We then concluded to move a few rods lower out of the wind. Before we

-got moved the wind moved to the west and it grew very cold. Our teams

-are gone back to fetch some of the wagons left last night. It rains and

-blows very badly and is very severe on our women and teams. Margaret

-and Lidia are out all the time and continually wetting both feet and

-all over. We expect Robert Burton's, one of Peck's, Peart's and my

-wagons in tonight. One of mine was fetched early in the morning. Our

-teams fare hard with wet and cold, having very little corn.

-

-Saturday, April 11

-

-This morning rode with Egan to help to get Brother Peart's wagon out of

-the slough. It took five yoke of oxen and twelve men to draw it out.

-The roads are yet very bad but it is fair and very cold. We sent twelve

-yoke of oxen to bring up Peck's and Charles Hale's wagon. They got in

-late at night.

-

-Sunday, April 12

-

-This morning before I got up, P. P. Pratt called and said that

-President Young wants the council to meet at Heber's camp at ten

-o'clock. I started out with Captain Egan on foot and arrived in

-season. Had some conversation with Ellen Sanders Kimball and then

-went to council. It was decided to change our route and take a more

-northern one to avoid the settlements. We will go to Grand River and

-there enclose a space of land about two miles square and put up some

-twenty log houses for a resting place for the companies. A company

-starts out in a day or two to seek out the location amongst whom are

-the President, Heber and others of the twelve. A company will also be

-sent west to Judge Miller's to go to work for feed, etc. After council

-I took dinner with Heber, the President being with us. I then wrote a

-letter to the trustees and returned with Captain Egan to our camp and

-soon after went to bed. The day has been fine but cold.

-

-Monday, April 13

-

-Finished my letter to Diantha and then went over to Peck's blacksmith

-shop. We had concluded not to leave till morning. While there a message

-arrived saying that Haws has sent eight yoke of cattle to help us on.

-We then concluded to start forthwith, being noon. But although we had

-so many extra teams, we had to leave three wagons in camp over night.

-Four of my folks walked all the way but still it was hard for me to get

-along. Keller had to stay back over night. I arrived at Locust Creek,

-being about four miles journey, about six o'clock and sent the cattle

-back for Peck and Steven Hales but they did not return till morning.

-In the evening the band played some. James broke his wagon tongue. We

-camped a little north of President Heber's camp.

-

-Tuesday, April 14

-

-The weather is again very fine. Because some of the wagons did not

-come, Egan and I concluded to go and meet them and not start farther

-until tomorrow. We met the teams close by and then took a northern

-course a hunting. We saw only squirrels and I got five of them. About

-noon we returned and found the camp mostly gone. Orders had come from

-the President for the whole to move to his camp today. Charles Terry

-and Henry were gone a hunting which detained me till about three

-o'clock. James and I then started with the four wagons. They overtook

-us when we had got about one half mile. We found the road very bad and

-had to double teams, our horses being so badly worn down. Charles Terry

-broke a wagon tongue.

-

-Wednesday, April 15

-

-Last night I got up to watch, there being no guard. The cattle and

-horses breaking into the tents and wagons. I tarried up then called S.

-Hales and Kimball. This morning Ellen Kimball came to me and wishes me

-much joy. She said Diantha has a son. I told her I was afraid it was

-not so, but she said Brother Pond had received a letter. I went over

-to Pond's and he read that she had a fine fat boy on the 30th ult.,

-but she was very sick with ague and mumps. Truly I feel to rejoice at

-this intelligence but feel sorry to hear of her sickness. Spent the day

-chiefly reading. In the afternoon President Young came over and found

-some fault about our wagons, etc. In the evening the band played and

-after we dismissed the following persons retired to my tent to have a

-social christening, viz. William Pitt, Hutchinson, Smithies, Kay, Egan,

-Duzett, Redding, William Cahoon, James Clayton and Charles A. Terry and

-myself. We had a very pleasant time playing and singing until about

-twelve o'clock and drank health to my son. We named him William Adriel

-Benoni Clayton. The weather has been fine but rains a little tonight.

-Henry Terry's horses are missing and have been hunted today but not

-found. This morning I composed a new song--"All is well." I feel

-to thank my heavenly father for my boy and pray that he will spare and

-preserve his life and that of his mother and so order it so that we

-may soon meet again. O Lord bless thine handmaid and fill her with thy

-spirit, make her healthy that her life may be prolonged and that we

-may live upon the earth and honor the cause of truth. In the evening I

-asked the President if he would not suffer me to send for Diantha. He

-consented and said we would send when we got to Grand River.

-

-Thursday, April 16

-

-This morning prepared to proceed on our journey but a span of horses in

-our company in care of Henry Terry being missing we concluded not to

-start. I sent out three men to hunt them. Soon after they were brought

-into camp by another person. I then sent Henry Terry to hunt for the

-men but it was after two o'clock before they returned. We fed a little

-corn and then started. The company is far ahead of us. We traveled very

-slowly our teams were so weak. However, we soon came into sight of the

-camp but it was six o'clock before we got there, having traveled about

-seven miles. The camp was formed on a beautiful prairie, President

-Young's camp being on a little eminence. President Kimball's about

-three quarters of a mile north of his and ours about a quarter of a

-mile east. There is some little grass for our cattle here, but little.

-We sent those of our company about a mile southeast and had a guard

-over them through the night. President Haws, Captains Egan and Kay and

-Jackson Redding went out a hunting. George Hale's cattle were so worn

-down that they could not get along and when within about a mile of

-camp about fifteen of the brethren went to help. They took a rope and

-fixed it on the wagon, loosed the cattle and brought it in themselves,

-singing all the way. At night the band played and then I retired to bed.

-

-Friday, April 17

-

-This morning very fine. Some of the camp started very early on the way.

-I was ready about eight o'clock but was detained on account of Captain

-Haws, Egan and others having gone hunting. I left Margaret to drive my

-team and sent them on and I drove the cattle on foot. We formed our

-encampment on a high dry place.

-

-Sunday, April 19

-

-While the rest are gone to meeting I turned to unpacking and took an

-inventory of church property. It took till about four o'clock to get

-through. Daniel Spencer's company had arrived about five o'clock.

-Porter Rockwell and Edwin Cutler arrived with the mail. Received a

-letter from Diantha confirming the birth of my son, also a letter from

-A. W. Babbit on some business. Went to see the President to show

-him the inventory but could not find him. About dark he sent for me and

-I went again but he was gone and I did not see him. My mare got in a

-mud hole last night and is very badly strained. Evening went to council

-and read many letters and wrote one to Elder Hyde.

-

-Monday, April 20

-

-At nine o'clock went to council. Had to read some letters and several

-pieces from papers. A report was read of all those who are able to fit

-themselves for the mountains. A law was made on motion of President

-Young that any person who interrupts the council hereafter by talking

-or otherwise, shall be deprived the privilege of the council till

-the council see proper to admit him. The public teams being brought

-together, the bishops took a list of them to be disposed of at Grand

-River. After council I went to work to assort the articles to be sold,

-etc. Wrote to Diantha.

-

-Tuesday, April 21

-

-This morning the main body of the camp are gone, but I am obliged

-to tarry and pack up the public goods again and re-load my wagons.

-I weighed most of our loads and it took until night to get through.

-Charles Terry's horse and one of mine are unable to drag any.

-

-Wednesday, April 22

-

-I had intended to start early this morning but our horses were away

-which detained us till nearly nine o'clock. About that time we started

-and traveled slowly about four and a half miles. We then stopped at

-11:30 and thought we would rest our teams and get them cooled off.

-The sun was very warm and they sweat considerably. Word came that

-O. P. Rockwell was on his way and would call for letters. We

-intended to wait until he came. I wrote a short letter to A. W.

-Babbit and one to father but Porter failed to call, and at two o'clock

-we started again. We traveled until about three o'clock when we passed

-Orson Pratt who had concluded to stay a piece east of where the camp

-had tarried last night. He said all the grass was eaten up for several

-miles around. We concluded to go beyond the timber where the main camp

-stayed last night but tried to find grass for our teams. We started

-onward. At the creek watered our teams and rested awhile. We then went

-on about a mile and a half and found good grass and much of it. We at

-once concluded to tarry there. We had put a little wood into our wagons

-to cook with. We arrived on the ground about six o'clock and then got

-the best camp ground we have had for some time.

-

-Three of our teams were behind when we arrived. Horlick got in about

-a half an hour after us and then afterwards Swap and Jones arrived at

-7:30. We are all comfortable but very tired, having traveled about ten

-miles. My wife Ruth walked all the way and myself also. The rest walked

-by turns. We have seen many rattlesnakes today. The weather is very

-fine.

-

-Thursday, April 23

-

-This last night has been very stormy with heavy thunder, hail, rain

-and wind. The thunder and lightning was very loud and the rain fell in

-torrents. The weather continues cold and cloudy with some fine showers.

-There appears some heavy rain in the east and north. Grass looks green

-and the cattle have filled themselves well. We started about ten

-o'clock and soon found that last night's rain had made the roads much

-worse. After traveling about four miles we stopped to graze our teams,

-being one o'clock. While resting Elders Taylor and Orson Pratt passed

-on horseback. At three o'clock we started again and about four came to

-the President's camp. He was just returning from an exploring tour to

-find out better roads. His camp was on the east of a piece of timber.

-He gave orders to move to the other side of the timber about a mile

-from where he then was. We concluded to move on and finally camped on

-the next ridge southwest of his. Our teams are tired and there is not

-much grass. A number of the horses have been bitten by rattlesnakes

-and one is dead. There are a great number of these snakes on these

-prairies. The President says the road to the next timber is all ridges

-and hollows and will be hard on teams. We got camped about 5:30 p.m.,

-and before we got fixed a thunder storm came on with heavy rain but it

-was soon over and the evening afterwards was fine.

-

-Friday, April 24

-

-This morning the President's company made a bridge over a creek and

-started again on their journey. Four of my horses were missing and

-I sent men to hunt them and went myself. They were found about ten

-o'clock. We tarried until about twelve to rest and then started. We

-went about two miles and stayed until four o'clock to graze our teams

-and then went on again and about six o'clock got to timber. I went to

-hunt a camping spot with Egan. We saw some women who told us Grand

-River was only a mile ahead and that the other companies were required

-to go down there. We started and soon arrived at the main body of the

-camp. We formed on the south side of the camp. The ground here is rich,

-timber good, and the prospects good for heavy crops. Here we calculated

-to tarry a while, fence in a piece of land and those who are not

-prepared to go through to tarry and raise crops. Wild onions grow in

-abundance. The weather has been fine today. Evening those of the band

-who are here went to Bishop Miller's tent and played for the President

-and a Mr. Bryant who lives about thirty miles from here. Pitt, George,

-Charles and Steven Hales and William F. Cahoon are way back as yet as

-well as Heber's company.

-

-Saturday, April 25

-

-This morning started by daybreak fishing. About 7:30 the President

-sent for me. I came back but he was gone. President Haws is regulating

-the company to watch our teams and also go to making rails, etc. The

-morning is fine. About nine o'clock Kendall, one of my teamsters,

-brought one of the horses he drives into camp which had been bitten by

-a rattlesnake. His nose had begun to swell badly. We got some spirits

-of turpentine and bathed the wound, washed his face in salt and water

-and gave him some snakes master root boiled in milk. He yet seems very

-sick. Our men have made a pen for the cattle at night. I feel quite

-unwell today. Spent the day chiefly reading. Evening Kennedy came to

-look at our horse and says they have given sufficient of the master

-root to kill four well horses. The horse looks very sick and is already

-scarcely able to stand. The band played a few tunes at night. About

-nine o'clock it rained somewhat and continued to shower through the

-night. Pitt arrived in camp this afternoon.

-

-Sunday, April 26

-

-The first news I heard this morning was that the horse was dead. This

-is a very unlucky circumstance for me for I am already very deficient

-in teams. Moreover, three of my teams leave me here, viz. Horlick,

-Chas. A. Terry and Jones with their wagons and teams. I shall then

-have about quarter teams enough to draw the loads. I have about three

-thousand pounds of church property besides my own goods. I see little

-chance of my moving from here at present. The morning was wet but it

-cleared off and continued so all day. I spent the day reading and

-writing while the rest went to meeting. Evening was sent for to go to

-council. Read a letter from O. Hyde stating that they had had an offer

-of two hundred thousand dollars for the temple. He writes of hard

-times in Nauvoo. The council selected one hundred men to make rails,

-forty-eight to build houses; twelve to dig wells; ten to build a bridge

-and the rest to go to farming.

-

-Steven Markham, C. C. Rich, L. C. Wilson, James Pace to

-oversee the rail cutting. Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, P. P.

-Pratt and Geo. A. Smith the house building. A. P. Rockwood to boss

-bridge building. President Young to boss him and the whole camp and

-Jacob Peart to boss well digging. The council decided to wait until

-morning to decide relative to selling the temple. After we adjourned I

-went into my wagon. I wrote a long letter to Diantha. It was about ten

-o'clock when I got through.

-

-Monday, April 27

-

-Rained all day. At 6:00 a.m., went to meeting. The men were divided out

-to work and commenced operations and had to quit on account of rain.

-After breakfast went to council, when it was voted to sell the temple,

-signifying as to the reason, it will be more likely to be preserved.

-It is as lawful to sell it to help the poor saints as to sell our

-inheritance. We do it because we are compelled to do it. I was ordered

-to write an answer to Elder Hyde's letter which I did, saying finally,

-if the temple was sold, $25,000 must be sent for the benefit of the

-camp. The balance to be left at the disposal of elder Hyde, Woodruff

-and the trustees and to be appropriated to help away those who have

-labored hard to build the temple and the faithful poor of the saints.

-Spent the balance of the day packing up china and crockery to be sent

-by Egan.

-

-Tuesday, April 28

-

-Weather very wet. Moved up on higher ground. Spent the morning

-unpacking chests for files and supplies. Afternoon unloading wagon

-to send a-trading. The weather very wet until night. President Young

-called over and said we had better not send Egan until the weather

-settles. The quadrille band have gone to give concerts in the Platte.

-They had to draw their wagons across the river by ropes the water was

-so high.

-

-Wednesday, April 29

-

-It still continues to rain and the ground is getting quite soft and

-muddy. Spent the day setting men to fixing yokes and bows. Walked out

-about a mile to the bluff west of us. It ceased raining about eleven

-o'clock and continued fair through the day.

-

-Thursday, April 30

-

-Unpacking and re-packing chests all the day. It continues to rain more

-or less and the weather looks bad. Ruth is quite unwell.

-

-

-

-May 1846

-

-Friday, May 1

-

-This month brings the damp wet weather. Chas. Shumway and George

-Langley start for George Herring this morning being instructed to bring

-him on to Council Bluffs. Spent the day preparing for Egan to start

-trading. He has gone with Jackson Redding and has taken $288.00 of

-church property besides two span of horses and harness and near $60.00

-of mine. Afternoon packing chests, etc. The weather finer and fairer.

-

-Saturday, May 2

-

-The day is fine. Preparing some for Horlick's return to Nauvoo on

-Monday. Wrote to Diantha. Selling shoes.

-

-Sunday, May 3

-

-The morning fair, windy and cloudy, southeast wind. Spent the morning

-making a list of all the company who have made their reports, also

-fixing tents. At ten o'clock went to meeting. O. Spencer talked a while

-and was followed by President Young who exhorted the camp to diligence

-in getting in crops for that will be our salvation the next winter. He

-said no company should start from here until the south field was made

-and some houses built. It commenced raining as the meeting closed and

-about three o'clock a thunder storm came on which lasted till near five

-o'clock. I spent the afternoon reading. Soon after five it cleared off

-some and the sun shone again. While at supper President Young called

-and stated that he wished that I should go to council with him. I

-started and the council met opposite his tent. It was decided that his

-fifty build the bridge tomorrow and all the rest to make rails and also

-that Sherwood and Orson Pratt go about twenty-five or thirty miles

-southwest to seek out another section.

-

-Monday, May 4

-

-Finished my letter to Diantha and sent it by John Richards. Horlick has

-concluded to tarry till my wagons are fixed. I spent the day examining

-my flour and crackers and helping to fix the tent as considerable of

-my crackers and flour are damaged on account of having poor wagons.

-I dreamed last night that I saw Diantha and her babe. Her babe was

-dressed in white and appeared to be lying down with its eyes closed.

-She was bent over it apparently in sorrow. When I went to her she flew

-to me earnestly but the babe seemed to be kept still and asleep, and I

-awoke. This dream has troubled me considerably. Evening met the clerks

-of 50's in my tent and instructed them how to make their reports, etc.

-

-Tuesday, May 5

-

-The weather very fine. I spent the day preparing to enter the reports

-on the record. Went over to J. D. Lee's and learned that some of

-the clerks had been to the President and told him that I had ordered

-that they should include in their reports each wife a man has. I did

-not do any such thing, only requested each name should be in full

-according to the order of a previous council. The President said it

-did not matter about the names being in full but I think in after days

-it will prove it does. Dr. Richards thinks as I do. The President,

-I understand, appeared quite angry. Many of the band are entirely

-destitute of provisions and my flour is so nearly down I have concluded

-to eat biscuit. I have given the band considerable of my biscuit

-already. At nine o'clock fixing my wagons. Expected a storm which soon

-afterwards commenced, raining and thundering very hard. Raining most of

-the night.

-

-Wednesday, May 6

-

-Writing in the camp record. In the afternoon a storm arose emitting

-very violent wind, thunder, lightning, rain and hail. Many tents blew

-over. One of mine blew over and most of our articles were wet and some

-nearly spoiled. I have been informed that Esther Kay has been offering

-bitter complaints because they do not fare as well as some others. The

-hint was thrown at Margaret and she understood that it was for me.

-I have today let Miss Kay a pair of shoes and took down a large bag

-of biscuits and divided it amongst those who are needy. I have all

-the time let them have flour, sugar, bacon and other things as I had

-them and to hear of dissatisfaction because I will not let them have

-the last I have grieves me. I have given to the band as near as I can

-estimate, twelve hundred pounds of flour, about four or five hundred

-pounds of bacon besides much of other things. Towards evening it did

-not rain so much but continued hard after we went to bed. The wind was

-very severe, almost as bad as I ever saw it for about a half an hour.

-

-Thursday, May 7

-

-This morning it is dull, cloudy and cold. About nine o'clock commenced

-raining again. I have again given Sister Kay a quart cup full of sugar.

-I have spent the day entering reports on record.

-

-Friday, May 8

-

-The weather fine and pleasant. Spent the day fixing wagon covers and

-wagons. Andrew Cahoon arrived from Nauvoo with the mail but no letter

-from Diantha or father. He says the troops arrested O. P. Rockwell

-last Thursday evening and took him to Carthage and thence to Quincy

-jail. It is doubtful whether he will now escape their cruel vengeance.

-This morning the mare had a colt. I have felt quite unwell all day.

-Evening went to President Young's to get records to look for a deed

-from Hiram Kimball to Ira S. Miles. Searched till near ten o'clock

-but the deed is not on record. Kimball seems disposed to take all the

-advantages he can from everyone.

-

-Saturday, May 9

-

-Morning fixing wagon cover, counseling with Wm. Cahoon and then was

-called aside by the President to read two letters from Sister Harris

-and her son. Dr. Richards, John Smith and Heber were present. Afternoon

-went fishing. The weather fine and no wind.

-

-Sunday, May 10

-

-Wrote a letter to Diantha, one to trustees, one to father, one to

-Brother Burdick, one to Thos. Moore and one to John Everett. Keller

-returned with thirteen bushels of meal and 250 pounds of bacon from

-the guard, having been gone twelve days. Evening went to council to

-Heber's tent. Samuel Bent having been appointed at today's meeting to

-preside over those left on his arm, he chose David Fullmer and Ezra T.

-Benson for counselors. P. P. Pratt was advised to start as soon as

-possible for Platte River to take all who were prepared to go.

-

-Monday, May 11

-

-Morning distributing meal and bacon to the band. Afterwards the

-President, Heber, and Dr. Richards came and took some cordage.

-Afternoon weighing and loading.

-

-Tuesday, May 12

-

-Sent Keller and Corbite to the mills to try and get flour, meal and two

-cows. Weighing and packing. About nine was sent for to go to council.

-I waited about two hours before anything was done. The vote for Ezra

-T. Benson to stay as counselor for father Bent was rescinded and it

-was voted to take Aron Johnson in his place. A letter of authority

-was written for father Bent by Dr. Richards but he made me copy it,

-and afterwards when the President spoke to him to write to O. P.

-Rockwell he favored me to do that although I left three men waiting to

-weigh my loading and load my wagon. The fact is I can scarcely ever

-go to council but Dr. Richards wants me to do his writing, although I

-have more writing to do as clerk of the camp than I can possibly do.

-Moreover I have to unpack the chest and wait on all of them with the

-public goods in my charge which keeps me busy all the time. President

-Young, Heber, Dr. Richards and Bishop Whitney have all made out to get

-lumber sawed to make their wagons comfortable but I can't get enough

-to make a hind board for one of my wagons, which has none. They are

-tolerably well prepared with wagons and teams but I am here with about

-five tons of stuff and only six wagons and five yoke of oxen to take

-it. I have dealt out nearly all of my provisions and have to get more

-before I can go on. It looks as if I had to be a slave and take slave's

-fare all the journey for it has worked that way so far. After council I

-was weighing and loading, etc., until night. We had some rain at night.

-

-Wednesday, May 13

-

-The morning fair, but cloudy. Still loading my wagons and preparing to

-move. President Young and Heber's companies have gone and left me. I

-asked Jones and Terry what provisions I should have to leave them while

-they put in the crops. They concluded that 25 lbs. of corn meal each,

-and from 25 to 50 lbs. of bacon for three of them would be enough for

-twenty days. I think so, for we do not use as much meat in the same

-time in my whole family and as to 25 lbs. of corn meal each for so long

-a time, it is far more than my family can have. I have also to supply

-Horlick with provisions to take him back to Nauvoo and have kept four

-of them since they came here while they are to work for themselves. All

-this continues to weaken my hands for the journey. I have to get three

-new teamsters and also feed them while the others are living on my

-food. Markham came in the evening and said the President had sent word

-to father Bent to raise cattle enough to take my load to the new place

-tomorrow morning but I cannot go because my horses have gone to the

-mill for meal. Evening it commenced raining again and rained nearly all

-night.

-

-Thursday, May 14

-

-This morning is fair, but cloudy and like for more rain. Jones has

-concluded to leave for Nauvoo this morning and leave his son to

-plant for him. I have given him and Charles A. Terry a letter of

-recommendation. Jones asked me and said I would have to leave him some

-provisions while he put in his crops but I do not feel to do it for I

-think it is far more reasonable that the company for whom he has been

-working should supply him instead of me doing it out of the little

-provisions I have. I have left Charles and Henry Terry 50 lbs. of meal

-and 14 lbs. of bacon besides boarding them two weeks while they have

-been working on their farm. I went to see Brother Bent about the teams

-and from him learned that he could only raise three yoke of oxen and

-no wagon. I went to see Crisman who had promised two yoke and told him

-I should start in the morning then went and spent the day fixing the

-loads, etc.

-

-Friday, May 15

-

-This morning Crisman called and said he should not let his cattle go

-until Brother Miller returned. I then concluded to take what teams I

-had and take my wagons and go on a few miles. I borrowed two yoke of

-oxen from Sister Kay and started. We got the wagons over the river and

-on the bluff about a mile and then stopped to let the teams feed. I

-walked on and met Brothers Miller, Pitt, Kay, and Hutchinson with a

-large drove of cows and cattle. I told Brother Miller my situation and

-the request of the President but I could get no satisfaction. We moved

-on with half of the wagons and I selected a spot over a quarter of a

-mile from timber. They then went back for the other wagons and got them

-all up about six o'clock. Reddings have come here also, and Sister Egan

-with one or two others.

-

-Saturday, May 16

-

-This morning is fine but the weather doesn't look like being fair long.

-I have concluded to send two wagons through and wait until the teams

-return before I can move farther. Swap and Conrad are gone with all the

-teams I have and I have sent A. Johnson's cattle back because they were

-useless unless I could have more. The day was very warm. I spent the

-day mostly reading. Afternoon Duzett, Hutchinson and Pitt arrived with

-their wagons.

-

-Sunday, May 17

-

-Spent the day mostly reading. Weather very warm. Afternoon Bishop

-Miller's company passed but he did not leave me any cattle although he

-has plenty and many cows. This agrees with his course, for from about

-two months before we left Nauvoo to the present, he has done nothing

-but for himself.

-

-Monday, May 18

-

-Morning went on the road about two miles to see if I could meet Keller

-and Corbitt. It rained and thundered some and continued cloudy through

-the day.

-

-Tuesday, May 19

-

-Spent the morning reading, afterwards went fishing. Some teams returned

-from camp and said that some from Nauvoo had arrived there which

-started two weeks ago last Saturday and that Elder Hyde had advised all

-the saints to move over the river as fast as possible from Nauvoo, and

-they have their ferry boats constantly employed. A number are already

-on their way here.

-

-Wednesday, May 20

-

-This morning is very rainy and cold. Spun twenty yards of fish line

-and tied on eleven hooks. Swap and Conrad returned soon after eleven

-o'clock. They say the camp is about thirty miles ahead. They confirm

-the report of some having arrived from Nauvoo and say they were told

-that my father is on his way here. The roads are lined with teams,

-etc., on the other road north of this. Horlick came this afternoon for

-more victuals. Although he is a good wagon maker and carpenter, he is

-either unwilling to work or the camp at the farms is unwilling to board

-him for his work which I hardly believe. It seems as though teamsters

-are resolved to live on me till they eat all I have and I now lack

-about three thousand lbs. of provisions to proceed with. I can learn of

-no one who has fed his teamsters as long as I have after they stopped

-teaming and moreover, the teamsters started with church property but I

-have sustained them out of my own provisions. Towards evening it was

-fair but still threatens to rain again. I cannot yet learn a word from

-Diantha but think she must be on her way. My family is yet in good

-health except Margaret who looks sick but doesn't complain.

-

-Thursday, May 21

-

-Continued raining this morning but about noon it began to be fine.

-About five o'clock a heavy thunder storm came up and it started raining

-heavily. Storm after storm kept coming far into the night. Wilham F.

-Gaboon called on his way up between the two companies. He wanted some

-salt but I had none for him.

-

-Friday, May 22

-

-This morning fine but cloudy, ground wet and soft. Wrote some in the

-camp record. About nine o'clock started on the road to look for a

-good camp ground. James started at the same time on horseback to see

-if he could meet Keller. I went about three miles and waited till he

-returned but no news from Keller. I concluded to move my camp about

-three miles and sent James back to load up and come on. I waited until

-they came. It was after five o'clock before they came up, the loads

-being heavy and the teams weak, the loads being too heavy for them. We

-are now camped on a very pleasant spot not far from timber. We have

-camped near the summit of a ridge where we can see a long way on both

-the roads leading to Miller's mill and to the next camp. Soon after we

-arrived Horace Whitney passed. I sent word to the President to send me

-more teams. I told Horlick we could not board him any longer and gave

-him a line to father asking him to board him until he returns. Have

-borrowed some meal from Edward Martin to get along. If Keller doesn't

-come soon we shall have to obtain something to eat somewhere or go

-short. We have nothing left to eat but some corn, and being short of

-milk we can not cook it to our advantage. James and I were consulting

-just at dusk as to the wisdom of one of us starting out to try and meet

-Keller and Corbitt or see if we could learn something of them. We both

-felt positive they had lost their horses. While we were talking we

-saw Keller and Horlick riding up from the first farm. From Keller we

-learned they had got horses and loads and were coming on the other road

-and would wait till we came up to meet them if we thought best. He said

-the guard had all returned and were with the wagons. This was joyful

-news to us and I felt my heart much relieved.

-

-Saturday, May 23

-

-James started out early to meet the wagons. After breakfast we started

-on the road and while standing Keller came up and said it was about

-four and a half miles to where the other road joins the main road. I

-started ahead on foot and after traveling about three miles came up to

-the teams where they had waited on the road. When I got up the guard

-seemed pleased to see me. Captain Allen had bought about thirty-six

-bushels of meal and 200 lbs. of bacon. They would not receive any

-pay for it. They have been faithful and diligent and have done much.

-There is yet $12.00 due them from the meal and they are determined

-I shall have that too. When my teams came up we put the meal in the

-wagons and started on. We went about a mile farther to Peter's Bridge

-where we concluded to camp for the night. We arranged our loading and

-I concluded to let Brother Allen have the wagon and team in his hands

-which is church property to send back to Nauvoo for his family. The

-guard made out a list of provisions which they wished me to leave them

-which was indeed very little. I gave them four pairs of shoes and

-probably three bushels of meal which is all the remuneration they would

-accept for all they had brought. They seemed well satisfied.

-

-Sunday, May 24

-

-This morning I gave certificates of discharge to A. Keller, John

-Horlick, Orville Allen, M. A. Dodge, Tollman, Starks, Mecham,

-Bartlet and P. R. Wright. Keller and Horlick started immediately

-for Nauvoo and Wright and Dodge soon after. I concluded to move on

-about two miles to where Hutchinson and Duzett were in camp. I started

-out on foot and most of my family soon after. It soon began to rain

-and rained till I was wet through. I traveled on about four and a half

-miles but could see no camp near timber. I stopped to rest at a post

-put up by Stewart where the Raccoon fork led off. While there Josiah

-Arnold passed on his way to Miller's. From him I learned that there

-was a camp ground about a half a mile farther. I went on and waited.

-Before any of the wagons arrived James came up. Soon after news arrived

-that Swap had broke his wagon tongue. I sent James to help bring on

-the loads. We only started with three wagons and left three back with

-Corbitt and Martin. The teams worked hard all day and at half past nine

-the last team arrived having taken all day to travel about five miles.

-

-Monday, May 25

-

-This morning I sent James and Corbitt to go and trade three horses

-and some harness for cows. About noon I started out with two wagons

-and left one and about three loads of stuff in care of two of the

-guard. After we had traveled about three miles I met a messenger from

-the camp who handed me two letters, one was from Diantha and one from

-Brother Whitaker concerning a piece of land. We went on about a mile

-and crossed a creek where we waited to rest our teams. When I read

-Diantha's letter it gave me painful feelings to hear of her situation.

-After resting about an hour we went on about four miles farther and

-camped near Father Baker's camp on a creek. It was night before we

-got supper over. I found several men going back to Nauvoo for their

-families.

-

-Tuesday, May 26

-

-Wrote an answer to Whitaker's letter and also one to Diantha. We

-started on about eight o'clock and found the road bad and many bad

-creeks where the bridges had been washed away. After traveling two

-miles one of my wagons loaded with corn meal was upset in a hole. But

-after about an hour's labor we got the loading in. The wagon was not

-much damaged. We proceeded about three miles farther and met two men

-with six yoke of oxen which President Young had sent to meet us. This

-was a great relief to us for we saw that we could not get to camp today

-because of our teams being so worn down. We rested our teams about an

-hour and then started on at a good pace. We found several more very

-bad creeks to pass but we did not have much difficulty. Duzett and

-myself drove the cows. Edward Martin drove his horses. About sundown

-we arrived in camp, having traveled about thirteen miles. This place

-is called Mt. Pisgah and is a very beautiful situation, the prairie

-rolling and rich, skirted with beautiful groves of timber on the main

-fork of the Grand river. Soon after we arrived Elder Kimball came

-to welcome us to camp and then came Elder Richards and family and

-President Young who all seemed glad to see us in camp.

-

-Wednesday, May 27

-

-This morning my horses and one cow and several of the oxen are missing.

-I went to see Bishop Whitney about getting teams to send back for the

-loads remaining but could get no satisfaction from him. I went back

-and unloaded two wagons on the ground and about the same time saw the

-President who said he would send for them. Elder Kimball sent one

-wagon and the President sent two. President Young said they intended

-to take the church property in their wagons and take it on to Council

-Bluffs but I must go with them and leave James and Corbitt and Egan to

-bring on the wagons they have, etc. I cannot think they understand my

-situation in regard to the teams or they would make some definite move

-about it. They intend to start in a day or two and I tried to fix the

-wagons in good order but had no chance to get even one fixed. Spent the

-day fixing up my tent and had to get a new pole. Heber took my other

-one. Afternoon it commenced gathering for a storm and we had barely

-time to get the tent up and the things under it before it began to rain

-and continued till I went to sleep. George Herring and Shumway arrived

-here last night. I spoke with them today.

-

-Thursday, May 28

-

-The morning dull and foggy, ground wet, etc. Went fishing some. Evening

-played with Hutchinson and Pitt. All my oxen, horses and the cow were

-found. I went out this morning hunting for them on foot. Evening

-raining.

-

-Friday, May 29

-

-The weather fine, cool, and windy. Talked with Heber some. He says I

-shall have teams. One of my wagons came in this morning.

-

-Saturday, May 30

-

-Went and borrowed a robe and ornaments from Aaron Farr then rode

-with Dr. Richards about three miles on the prairie. There were five

-others and among them President Young. Two tents were brought and

-we fixed them up and then met and clothed. There were President

-Young, P. P. Pratt, J. Taylor, Geo. A. Smith, A. Lyman, John

-Smith, N. K. Whitney, D. Spencer, O. Spencer, C. C. Rich,

-E. T. Benson, Wm. Huntington and myself. Clothed and having

-offered up the signs, offered up prayer, Heber C. Kimball being mouth.

-We then conversed awhile and appeared again, Geo. A. Smith being

-mouth--A. P. Rockwood and Wm. Kimball were guarding the tent.

-Prayers were offered that we might be delivered from our enemies and

-have teams to go on our journey, etc. About two o'clock we returned to

-camp. Many of the teams were coming in and among the rest, the teams

-sent back for my loading which all arrived tonight.

-

-Sunday, May 31

-

-Having heard that Egan was near I started out to meet him. The morning

-was fine but about eleven o'clock it began to thunder. I went about

-two miles and before I got back without seeing Egan it rained heavily.

-I was wet through. I called at the meeting while President Young was

-speaking. It rained nearly all the afternoon. Noal Richards died.

-

-

-

-June 1846

-

-Monday, June 1

-

-Was wet in the morning and windy all day. The council got me four

-wagons and seven yoke of oxen to take church property.

-

-Tuesday, June 2

-

-Still windy but fair. President Young has again stated I lack some

-cattle yet. Fixing my wagon, etc. Have about teams enough but lack

-teamsters.

-

-Wednesday, June 3

-

-Fixing my wagons. Concluded to start on. My teams were scattered but we

-started with what we had. We got over the river at three o'clock, one

-yoke of cattle still missing. I sent the men hunting for them but they

-were not found.

-

-Thursday, June 4

-

-Again sent the men hunting cattle. The day was very cold and windy,

-almost as cold as winter. I spent the day fixing a wagon for Diantha

-expecting her on in about two weeks. Lucy Walker called in this

-afternoon and expressed sorrow on account of the treatment of Heber's

-family toward her. Amos Fielding called on his way to the President's

-camp. Towards evening it rained and there was one of the most beautiful

-rainbows I ever saw in my life. We could see its brilliant reflection

-within a few rods of us. In the evening Douzett came for his cow which

-had tarried with ours. He concluded to stay over night. My teamsters

-returned without finding the cattle.

-

-Friday, June 5

-

-Sent all the men except James Douglas to hunt the cattle. About nine

-o'clock my adopted son Thomas Corbich returned with them. I then waited

-till two o'clock for the men to return, three of them being still

-absent. I have now eleven wagons, sixteen yoke of oxen, six cows,

-five horses, and six teamsters, besides my brother James, whose names

-are Conrad Neil, Levi N. Kendall, James Douglas, Milton F. Bartlett,

-Willard Smith, and A. E. Hinkel, four of the latter are new to me

-and do not seem to know much about teaming. At two o'clock I concluded

-to start on and after about an hour's preparation we started. The men

-took two teams each. I drove the cows on foot. The roads are a great

-deal better. We traveled about six miles and camped on a hill beyond

-nice timber. Pitt is here and Brother Taylor's camp. Amos called on his

-way back to England. He stayed and conversed a while. I will here say

-that the oxen put in by Brothers Olive and Rich to take church property

-are very poor and some of them scarcely of any use. We arrived here

-about half past six o'clock. The day has been cold, fine and fair.

-

-Saturday, June 6

-

-The morning very fine. We started out at eight o'clock; Pitt joined

-with us. I went on foot to drive the cows. About ten o'clock we had a

-little rain. After traveling about seven miles we arrived at a piece

-of timber where the patriarch John Smith was resting. We concluded to

-rest our teams here and stopped at half past eleven. At one o'clock we

-started again and soon after had a heavy thunder shower. I was about

-a mile ahead of the wagons and having no shelter was soon completely

-drenched with rain. It got very cold while raining. As soon as the

-wagons came up we stopped till the shower was over which did not last

-long. We then pursued our journey and at six o'clock camped on the open

-prairie a long way from timber, having traveled about sixteen miles.

-After the shower the day was fine. I was very tired and wet and after

-eating a little went to bed. Vilate Ruth is weaning from the breast

-today which makes her cry.

-

-Sunday, June 7

-

-Inasmuch as we were not near timber we concluded to travel on till we

-found some. We started at eight o'clock and traveled till two, being

-about nine miles, when we came to a little grove of timber and just

-beyond a bad bottom of prairies. I concluded to pass this and camp on

-the adjoining ridge. I drove the cows all day on foot. My feet were

-sore and blistered. The day was very fine. Sometime after we arrived

-Father John Smith came and camped just below us.

-

-Monday, June 8

-

-The weather fine. Traveled about ten miles, the roads being very hilly

-and uneven. We camped on a bottom near timber. I went fishing and had

-good success. I drove the cows till noon then rode with family.

-

-Tuesday, June 9

-

-Weather fine and hot. Went fishing at daybreak with James and had

-good luck. At nine we went on. I rode again. Afternoon three Indians

-overtook us and begged some bread. We camped on a bottom beside Coleman

-and others, having traveled about twelve miles. Two Indians are here

-and we have learned their camp is only three miles from us. President

-Young left word to go in companies from here to avoid being plundered

-by the Indians. We had our cattle tied up and a guard over them through

-the night.

-

-Wednesday, June 10

-

-Went fishing at daybreak and caught thirty-six. Weather hot. We started

-about nine o'clock and found the roads good but over hills and ravines

-all the day. At six o'clock we camped in sight of the Pottawattamie

-Indian village. When about two miles from it they discovered us coming

-and we soon saw a number of them riding towards us. Some had bells

-on their horses which frightened our horses and cattle. James and I

-took the horses and let the others take the oxen the best way they

-could. Some of the Indians followed our wagons and inquired often for

-whiskey. We had to pass some timber and a river before we arrived at

-their village which is situated on a very beautiful ridge skirted

-by timber and beautiful rolling prairie. Before we arrived at the

-timber it seemed that the whole village had turned out, men, women,

-and children, some on horses and many on foot. Their musicians came

-and played while we passed them. They seemed to escort our wagons and

-asked if we were Mormons. When we told them we were they seemed highly

-pleased. It took us some time to cross the bridge over the river and

-then we were perfectly surrounded by Indians apparently from curiosity

-and friendship. They watched us cross the bridge and others followed

-on with us. The boys seemed to learn the words our teamsters used to

-drive the cattle and would run and in their way help to drive. They

-manifested every feeling of friendship and nothing unkind or unfriendly

-transpired. Soon after we passed the bridge we were met by Jas. W.

-Cummings and the brethren from Shariton Ford with John L. Butler to

-bring Emmet's company to meet us. The cattle have been with Emmet's

-company from the time they left Nauvoo. The road leads within about

-two hundred yards of the Indians and I wanted to go about two miles

-farther to save the necessity of having a guard but soon after we left

-the village we had to ford a stream which was deep and bad to cross.

-I then concluded to camp on the ridge above the ford and in sight

-of the village, being about a half or three quarters of a mile from

-them. Many of them followed us, men, women and children and watched

-all our movements but about dark all departed in peace. They seemed

-well pleased with their visit. They certainly showed every mark of

-friendship and kindness imaginable and treated us as brothers. We

-learned that the chief's daughter was buried today. We have traveled

-about fifteen miles. From Cummings we learned that Emmet had left his

-things belonging to the company with him. Part of the company has

-crossed at St. Louis and are now on the line here. The agent of the

-U. S. refuses to let them pass. The other part of the company are

-thirty miles below the bluffs expecting us to cross there.

-

-Thursday, June 11

-

-Many of the Indians again came to the camp with the same friendly

-feeling. Some squaws came to trade. We started soon after nine, the

-weather being very hot. We traveled over about five miles of very

-uneven road. The rest was good. We had to travel till late before we

-came to water. We camped on a small creek where Coleman and Tanner were

-camped, having traveled about fourteen miles.

-

-Friday, June 12

-

-Traveled about three miles, the weather being very hot. We camped on

-a beautiful ridge where the main body had evidently left but little

-before, beside a large rapid stream. I concluded to stay here until

-Monday to rest our teams and give their shoulders a chance to heal,

-several of which were very sore.

-

-Saturday, June 13

-

-Fixing a wagon, etc. The weather very hot. Evening killed one of our

-cows. The mosquitoes here began to be very troublesome, there being so

-many of them and so bloodthirsty.

-

-Sunday, June 14

-

-The weather very hot and the mosquitoes tremendously bad. This morning

-I weighed bread for each man at the rate of a half a pound a day.

-They seem very much dissatisfied and growl to each other very much. I

-weighed for my family of ten as much as I weighed for six teamsters.

-They were dissatisfied but we had some left. They have hitherto had

-all they wanted three times a day and above this have eaten up a bag

-of crackers unknown to me which I had reserved for the mountains.

-The mosquitoes being so bad, I concluded to go on a little piece. We

-started at 1:00 p.m. and traveled until four when we arrived at a small

-clear stream having traveled about six miles. I camped here and in the

-evening told the men a part of what I thought of their conduct.

-

-Monday, June 15

-

-The morning cooler but mosquitoes bad. Our horses were missing and

-we were detained till ten o'clock before we could start. The horses

-had gone back to where we left yesterday. We traveled till sundown

-before we came to water, being about twelve miles. We camped near to

-C. L. Whitney.

-

-Tuesday, June 16

-

-Started at 7:30 and traveled about twelve miles when we came in sight

-of the Missouri river and the main camp about five miles farther. We

-soon learned that some of the camp were coming back to find water.

-There being no water where we were, we moved back about two miles to a

-spring and there camped expecting to stay until we should learn what to

-do.

-

-Wednesday, June 17

-

-This morning Kay and Duzett rode up and said they were anxiously

-expecting us at the camp and wanted us to go immediately. I went to

-the camp with them to look out a place while my men yoked up and

-brought the wagons. When I arrived I saw Heber. He seemed pleased to

-see me and went with me to look out a place to camp. I fixed a spot

-between President Young's camp and Bishop Miller's. Heber said the

-twelve had an invitation to go to the village to the agent's to dinner

-and they wanted the band to go with them. I went back to meet the

-wagons which had been detained on account of some of the cattle being

-missing. As soon as my wagons arrived I got ready and started in Heber

-s carriage with Heber, Bishop Whitney, and Smithies. Edward Martin,

-Pitt, Hutchinsoo, Kay and Duzett rode in the other carriage. When we

-arrived at Mr. Mitchell's, the agent's place, we were introduced to him

-one by one. We then played and Kay sang until about five o'clock when

-we returned. This village is situated but a little distance from the

-river, probably fifty rods. It is composed of twelve or fifteen blocks,

-houses without glass in the windows, and is the noted place where the

-Lamanites for years held their council. The inhabitants are composed of

-Lamanites, half breeds and a few white folks. I had an introduction to

-Sarrapee an Indian trader. We arrived home just at dusk.

-

-Thursday, June 18

-

-Fixing a wagon all day. Evening went fishing. Spoke to Bishop Whitney

-about some more teams.

-

-Friday, June 19

-

-Fixing wagons and preparing to send off some things to trade. Evening

-went fishing. Went with the band to hold a concert at the village. Many

-went from the camp. The Indians and half breeds collected $10.10 and

-gave it to us and the agent Mr. Mitchel gave a dinner to all that came.

-

-Sunday, June 21

-

-At home until evening. At 5:00 met with the brethren of the camp and

-acted as clerk while they selected men to build the boat.

-

-Monday, June 22

-

-Fixing my wagons. The day was windy and cold. I was informed yesterday

-that Diantha is twenty miles back from Mt. Pisgah with her father still

-farther back. They have sent her chest on to Pisgah and she is with

-Loren. I partly made up my mind to start in the morning and bring her.

-

-Tuesday, June 23

-

-This morning I got my food ready to start after Diantha but Vilate Ruth

-seemed quite sick and I concluded not to start. We took the teams and

-went to the village to pick gooseberries but it rained nearly all the

-time we were gone. I bought a scythe and some other things and tried

-to trade a watch for a yoke of cattle. Major Mitchel offered me three

-yoke for the gold watch. We got home about 3:00. I then went and told

-the President about Mitchel's offer and he told me to sell it. It was

-so cold and wet and windy we went to bed early and soon after we got

-to bed, Heber and Dr. Richards came to my wagon with two letters from

-Diantha, one dated Nauvoo, May 17, 1846, the other Big Prairie, June

-18th. She tells that she is sent on by her father and is with Loren and

-is very anxious that I should bring her or send for her. I made up my

-mind to start tomorrow. The night was very stormy with strong winds and

-heavy rains.

-

-Wednesday, June 24

-

-The morning wet and cold. I went over to President Young and told him

-where I was going and what for. He said he would get the cattle for me.

-I also spoke to Heber and he said: "Go and prosper." At 11:00 I went

-to council and President Young, Kimball and Taylor concluded also to

-go to Pisgah after the cannon. I started at two o'clock it then being

-fair. At five o'clock I passed Father Knowlton's company thirteen miles

-from camp and at seven passed Laharpe's company and inquired of Brother

-Burgham and Freeman about Diantha but could not learn much from them.

-Brother Ezra Bickford was here on his way back to Nauvoo. He said he

-was tired from riding on horseback and asked if I would let him go with

-me to Pisgah and use his horse in the wagon. I told him to come on. I

-soon found it made a difference in the load. We went on about two miles

-and stopped at dark on the middle of the prairie near no water. After

-feeding we lay down to rest. We had several heavy showers through the

-night.

-

-Thursday, June 25

-

-This morning arose at four o'clock and moved our wagon a little to

-fresh grass to let the horses feed, they being tied to it. It is fair,

-but cloudy. We started again at 5:30 a.m., traveled till 10:00 then

-rested till 2:00 and then traveled until dark, making thirty-one miles.

-We camped just beyond the Indian village in the midst of a severe

-thunder storm. It rained most of the day and the roads were bad.

-

-Friday, June 26

-

-Did not start until after seven. Morning fair, roads bad. After

-traveling about six miles we found Horace Clark and others camped on

-one side of a small stream and Orson Spencer on the other side. The

-creek was full of water to the bank and in the deepest place about six

-feet over the bridge and a part of the bridge washed away. We tarried

-until 3:00 and then concluded to try to get over. Walter L. Davis and

-Wm. D. Huntington volunteered to help us over. We unloaded the wagon

-box for a boat, taking a few of our things over at a time. When we got

-them all over we swam the horses over, loaded up, and at 5:00 started

-again and went till near nine having traveled about sixteen miles.

-

-Saturday, June 27

-

-The day was fine and we traveled about thirty-eight miles and camped

-on the prairie about eight miles from Pisgah. During the day we passed

-some U. S. officers on their way to see President Young and the

-council. We afterwards learned that they professed to be going to the

-authorities of the church by order of the President of the United

-States to raise five hundred volunteer Mormons to defend Santa Fe, etc.

-

-Sunday, June 28

-

-At daybreak it rained again. We started at four o'clock and arrived

-at Pisgah at eight. Had some conversation with Father Huntington and

-C. C. Rich. We fed and at nine o'clock started again. We soon

-saw Brother Woodruff. He was glad to see me and we conversed together

-some time. From him I learned that Missouri had sent up a committee to

-Pisgah to search for forts and cannon, etc. He says the Missourians

-are terrified and many are moving from the back to the interior

-settlements. He also stated that we have a friend in the British

-Parliament and the British had held a private council in relation to

-the treatment of the U. S. towards us. Britain is making great

-preparations for war. They have sent ten thousand troops to Canada

-and a fleet around Cape Horn to Oregon. They are intending to arm

-the slaves of the south and have their agents in the Indian country

-trying to bring them in war to fight the U. S. After we left

-Elder Woodruff we passed on and soon met Sister Durpee and Brother

-Lott and his company. He said Diantha was back about four miles. Soon

-after we met Orville Allen and from him learned that Diantha was back

-at least twelve miles. We continued on and at two o'clock fed. We

-arrived at Father Chase's between four and five o'clock. Diantha was

-very glad to see me and burst into tears. My little boy is far beyond

-all my expectations. He is very fat and well formed and has a noble

-countenance. They are both well and I feel to thank my heavenly Father

-for his mercies to them and Father Chase and to his family and may the

-Lord bless them for it, and oh Lord, bless my family and preserve them

-forever. Bless my Diantha and my boy and preserve their lives on the

-earth to bring honor to Thy name and give us a prosperous journey back

-again is the prayer of thy servant William. Amen. At night we had a

-heavy thunder storm. It rained very heavily.

-

-Monday, June 29

-

-The morning is cool and cloudy, the ground very wet. Brother Bickford

-is gone to Nauvoo. Left Father Chase's company about 10:30 a.m. They

-kindly furnished us with bread stuffs sufficient to last us to camp. We

-arrived at Mt. Pisgah and stayed near Father Huntington's.

-

-Tuesday, June 30

-

-This morning in council with President Huntington, Rich and Benson

-until nine o'clock a.m. Took breakfast with Elder Rich and then started

-on. We passed Brothers Woodruff, and Lott and their companies about

-twelve miles from Pisgah. After traveling about twenty-six miles we

-turned onto the big prairie for the night. The weather fine and roads

-good.

-

-

-

-July 1846

-

-Wednesday, July 1

-

-P. P. Pratt passed about six o'clock. We afterwards learned that

-he was going on express to Pisgah to raise the 500 volunteers to go to

-Santa Fee. After traveling about seven miles we rested with Brother

-Weeks and ate breakfast, then went on till two o'clock and stopped to

-feed. We continued on till dark, having traveled about seventeen miles.

-

-Thursday, July 2

-

-Having lost the horses during the night I went back four miles to hunt

-them. I met someone and enquired about them, asking if he had not seen

-them. Went back to camp and ate a little and afterwards found them

-about a mile west. We started about ten o'clock and at sundown passed

-the Indian village and the stream at which we previously camped. We

-camped about two miles west of the Indian village.

-

-Friday, July 3

-

-Started early and went about four miles to a creek where we ate

-breakfast. The day very hot but we traveled about twenty-five miles.

-We met President Young, Heber Kimball, and Dr. Richards going back

-to raise volunteers. They feel that this is a good prospect for our

-deliverance and if we do not do it we are downed. We went on and camped

-near Hiram Clark and took supper with him.

-

-Saturday, July 4

-

-This morning my horses were missing and five from Clark's company

-were missing. I found them a little west of the camp and started on.

-Diantha having eaten nothing this morning I tried to buy some bread but

-could not get it till I got home. I arrived at three o'clock and found

-my little Vilate sick, the rest all well. I went over to Council at

-Captain Allen's tent.

-

-Sunday, July 5

-

-At home all day. Conrad has left and gone to Elder Hyde's. The weather

-is very hot. My traders have got back and brought twenty bushels of

-corn, but only one of wheat.

-

-Monday, July 6

-

-Spent the day fixing wagons. Day very hot. Bishop Whitney called to see

-us. They are getting over the river as fast as possible but it is slow

-work.

-

-Thursday, July 9

-

-Spent the two previous days fixing wagons and today went down to the

-river to see about crossing, etc. Took my family with me.

-

-Friday, July 10

-

-Fixing my wagons, also Saturday unpacked the dry goods wagon and

-repacked it.

-

-Sunday, July 12

-

-Went to the meeting at Elder Taylor's camp. In the evening President

-Young, Kimball and Richards returned. They requested me to go to

-Taylor's to council. I went and tarried till dark, wrote a letter to

-the Quadrille band to meet tomorrow also wrote orders for all the men

-in camp to meet.

-

-Monday, July 13

-

-Went to the general meeting and played with the band and then kept

-minutes. They got three companies of 43 each and half of a fourth

-company. All my teamsters have enlisted. I am now destitute of help.

-Edward Martin is advised to go and leave his family in my charge. I

-have still four yoke of oxen missing and I do not know where to find

-them. Last night James was seized with a fit and is quite unwell today,

-mostly insensible. Vilate Ruth is quite sick and on the whole my

-situation is rather gloomy. The meeting adjourned at five till tomorrow

-at eight, after which the company danced till dark.

-

-Tuesday, July 14

-

-I went over to meeting this morning and told the President my

-situation. He consented for me to go back to my camp to see to things.

-I came back but feel very unwell. Martin's youngest child died at 1:30

-p.m.

-

-Wednesday, July 15

-

-Went with Edward Martin to bury his child on a high bluff south of the

-camp. We buried it between two small oak trees, a little east of them,

-the babe's head to the east. After returning Heber sent word for us to

-cross the creek to the other bluff where Elder Taylor is camped. We

-got some of the cattle together and took part of the wagons over and

-then returned for the remainder. As soon as we got there a message came

-that the President wished the band to go to the village. We accordingly

-started but when we got there we found nobody there and after a little

-trading we returned home.

-

-Thursday, July 16

-

-Hunting my horses to take Diantha to see her father's folks who arrived

-yesterday. In the afternoon we started out and went about three miles

-from here. They appeared very glad to see us. We got home again at dark.

-

-Friday, July 17

-

-Went fishing.

-

-Saturday, July 18

-

-Went to the village to play with the band for the volunteers. They

-danced till near sundown when we returned home.

-

-Sunday, July 19

-

-In the wagon till evening. Sister Farr came to see us. Diantha and I

-went home with her in the evening.

-

-Monday, July 20

-

-In the morning fixing for our concert. Afternoon the band came with

-their wives and we played and danced till dark. President Young made

-some appropriate remarks exhorting the saints to prayer, etc.

-

-Tuesday, July 21

-

-This morning it rained very heavily. Went to council at Elder Pratt's

-camp. The council appointed a council of twelve to preside here, viz.

-Isaac Morley, Geo. W. Harris, James Allred, Thos. Grover, Phineas

-Richards, Herman Hyde, Wm. Peck, Andrew H. Perkins, Henry W. Miller,

-Daniel Spencer, J. H. Hales and John Murdock. I wrote a letter

-informing them of their appointment also instructing them not to let

-any pass over the river unless they could be in time to go to Grand

-Island and cut hay, to watch over the church, establish schools for the

-winter, etc. I spent the remainder of the day at the creek. I asked

-the President what I should do but could get no answer. I have not

-been able to get any satisfaction from any of the council as to what I

-should do and am totally at a loss to know whether to tarry here or go

-on. My provisions are nearly out and my teamsters all gone and nearly

-all the cattle strayed away, and no one to hunt them except James and

-Corbitt and they are sick.

-

-Wednesday, July 22

-

-Fixing a wagon for Margaret and re-loading some wagons.

-

-Thursday, July 23

-

-Unpacking church property. Found considerable of it very much damaged

-with wet. I put it out and dried it well and repacked it. Evening went

-with Diantha to see her folks.

-

-Friday, July 24

-

-Regulating the loading, etc.

-

-Saturday, July 25

-

-Bought 357 pounds of flour at $2.50 per hundred and carried it about

-three hundred yards to my wagons then spent the day fixing wagon

-covers. Evening went to Brother Farr's. About 11:00 a storm arose

-and it soon began to rain heavily and a while after blew a perfect

-hurricane. The thunder was awful and the rain poured in torrents for

-about a half an hour.

-

-Sunday, July 26

-

-This morning the tent is down, wagons drenched and everything looks

-gloomy enough. Scarcely a tent in the camp was left standing and many

-wagon covers torn. A report is circulated that a cow was killed by

-lightning. Much damage is done to wagons, provisions, etc. The cow was

-killed about 200 yards west of my wagons. There was a tent struck also

-but no persons hurt. I went to meeting and heard Benson and Taylor

-preach. Afternoon at my wagons. Evening Bishop Whitney, President Young

-and Kimball called. I made out a bill of goods for them to send east by

-Robert Pierce. They ordered me to go down to the river tomorrow.

-

-Monday, July 27

-

-Loading wagons, packing, etc., preparing to start. Last night I engaged

-Pelatiah Brown as a teamster. We started soon after noon. I drove the

-cows and James, Corbitt and Brown the teams with twelve wagons. We had

-to leave one cow four yoke of oxen and two horses on the ridge, being

-missing. We got down about six o'clock. Bishop Whitney passed and said

-I should not get over the river tomorrow and I suppose we shall have

-to wait some days. James and Corbitt are both sick and discouraged on

-account of having so little help and so many cattle, etc., to look

-after. They have a hard time of it but I can see no prospects of its

-being better.

-

-Tuesday, July 28

-

-James and Corbitt started back to hunt the cattle. I went to the

-village and received $12.00 of Larpey for the cordage I sold to Allen,

-$3.50 is yet my due. I then went and bought some flour of Tanner. While

-we were weighing it a storm arose and it rained and thundered and

-lightninged throughout the day and nearly all night. I have not seen

-more rain fall in a long time.

-

-Wednesday, July 29

-

-Got the balance of the flour making 889 lbs., most of it at $2.50 and

-200 lbs. at $2.00. Afternoon went to the village with Alice, Diantha,

-and Margaret. There saw President Young and Heber. They have just

-bought a pony and some cloth, etc., and seem to have money enough but

-there is none to buy me flour. I yet lack about a ton.

-

-Thursday, July 30

-

-At home all day. Unpacked mother's wagon and found many things wet and

-damaged.

-

-Friday, July 31

-

-Attending to wagons, cattle, etc., all day.

-

-

-

-August 1846

-

-Saturday, August 1

-

-This morning I went to the river to see how soon we could cross and

-learned there was a prospect of our crossing this evening or tomorrow

-morning. I then went back to my camp and we started with the wagons a

-few at a time. My brother James is lame in bed. Pitt is lame. Brown

-is lame and Corbitt nearly spent. About noon we got all the wagons to

-the river and Corbitt returned to take the cattle to grass. I went to

-Larpey's and got the balance of the money then went to Mitchel's to try

-to trade my music box for a cow but did not succeed.

-

-Sunday, August 2

-

-Preparing to cross the river. Pelatiah Brown went swimming all the

-forenoon and when Corbitt asked him to help with the teams he swore he

-would not if Jesus Christ would ask him. I told him if he did not feel

-like helping us he could go somewhere else, I did not want him. He went

-and I am again left without a teamster. I will here say that Brown will

-not work only when he has a mind to and during the last week when James

-and Corbitt and Pitt were all gone he would go to the river swimming

-instead of attending to the cattle and I may as well be without a

-teamster as have a man who will go away in a cramp. About noon we

-crossed three wagons over and kept to work until we had got them all

-over which took us till dark. We had to crowd our wagons together in

-the road just above the river on account of its being stopped up by

-other wagons. We could not get our cattle to grass and they have had

-none since last night, but having a few bushels of corn we gave them

-five ears a piece. After supper I went fishing with Wm. F. Cahoon and

-others until two o'clock but had very poor luck.

-

-Monday, August 3

-

-Started this morning to get our wagons on the prairie. The road is very

-narrow and bad, up steep bluffs and very muddy. It took four yoke of

-oxen to take a very light load. When we had got four of the wagons up

-eight yoke of Bishop Whitney's cattle came to help us and afterwards

-nine yoke of President Young's and Kimball's. We got to the prairie

-about noon and stopped to feed our cattle. I sent on five wagons with

-the teams sent to help us and after feeding about an hour started with

-the remainder. I drove the spare cattle and horses. We got the wagons

-to camp about six o'clock. One of President Young's oxen killed himself

-when going to drink, being so eager he pitched into the creek and broke

-his neck. When we got to camp we were all completely tired. My feet

-were sore and my limbs ached and had to go to bed. We camped on the

-north end of Heber's company. We have left nine head of cattle over the

-river yet and there is little prospect of being able to find some of

-them.

-

-Tuesday, August 4

-

-This morning Heber's company have moved on about two days journey and

-again left me here alone. I loaned C. L. Whitney three yoke of

-oxen to help him through. They are gone to find a place within thirty

-miles of here to winter. I spent the day doing little, being so unwell.

-

-Wednesday, August 5

-

-Moved down a little nearer water. There spent the day fixing Ruth's

-wagon. Corbitt has gone over the river to hunt cattle and in the

-evening returned with one yoke.

-

-Thursday, August 6

-

-Putting covers on Margaret's and mother's wagons, etc. Afternoon

-writing copy of the returns of companies.

-

-Friday, August 7

-

-Spent the forenoon writing copy of return of companies of the

-U. S. army. About noon two of Heber's teamsters came with some

-cattle to help me to the main camp. I left off writing and went to

-putting the wagons in order. While fixing a chicken coop I struck my

-forehead with a hammer which disabled me from work the remainder of the

-day.

-

-Saturday, August 8

-

-This morning we arose about three o'clock and while some took the

-cattle to graze the rest got the wagons loaded, etc., ready to start.

-We got away soon after sunrise. I rode a mule and drove the cows. We

-traveled about nine miles before we came to any water. Here we took the

-teams from the wagons to a spring about a quarter of a mile from the

-road. The cattle seemed tired but one of the teamsters said it was only

-about three miles farther and should soon be there. We concluded to go

-on without stopping to feed. But before we had proceeded far some of

-the cattle gave out, the day being very hot, and before we got to camp

-several yoke gave up entirely and were left on the road and brought

-afterwards. One of the cattle died almost as soon as they took him from

-the wagon, being about a mile from camp. Two or three others were not

-expected to live. When we arrived Heber wanted us to form on his north

-line but we could only get half of our wagons into the space left for

-the whole of them. I then moved over to the south side and formed next

-to D. Russell. We got our tent up but can have no fire until Monday.

-The cattle are so tired we will not use them. I feel about sick myself.

-Heber's camp is formed in a kind of parallelogram, each wagon camped

-in a perfect line with the others. The square in the center is about

-twenty-five rods long and fifteen rods wide.

-

-Sunday, August 9

-

-Writing copy of return of companies of U. S. army all day.

-

-Monday, August 10

-

-Attending to various business about the wagons all day.

-

-Tuesday, August 11

-

-Last night I had a severe chill and felt sick all day mostly with high

-fever. Quite unable to work.

-

-Wednesday, August 12

-

-Quite sick, very bad fever all day.

-

-Sunday, August 16

-

-Since Wednesday have scarcely even been out of bed, but kept with

-raging fever all the time. Twice Heber has rebuked my fever but it has

-returned. Through fear and persuasion of my family I have taken some

-pills and medicine given by Dr. Sprague, but seem to grow worse all the

-time. Today I have been very sick. Towards evening my folks concluded

-to get me out of the wagon into the tent where they had prepared a

-bed. Soon after I got into the tent President Young, Dr. Richards,

-G. A. Smith, Orson Pratt, Lorenzo Young and others called to

-see me. When they had been in a few moments President Young called

-O. P. Rockwell into the tent and the feelings we had on seeing him

-cannot be described. He has been in prison some time but when his trial

-came on there was no one to accuse him and the judge discharged him.

-The brethren all laid hands on me and rebuked my disease in the name of

-the Lord, President Young being mouth. I immediately felt easier and

-slept well all night being the first sleep I had had of any account for

-three days and nights.

-

-Sunday, August 23

-

-During the past week I have gained slowly and have been able to walk

-about some. I, however, feel very weak and broken down.

-

-Monday, August 24

-

-Reading some and fixing a little at my violin. Feel very little better

-but have a better appetite.

-

-Tuesday, August 25

-

-We had a thunder storm last night. I do not feel so well this morning

-but took a walk into the woods. I had a very sick day all day.

-

-Wednesday, August 26

-

-The morning very cool and cloudy. Let T. Corbitt have a pair of shoes.

-

-Thursday, August 27

-

-Diantha was taken very sick and continued for four or five days.

-

-Saturday, August 29

-

-At night I was seized with fever again and very sick.

-

-Sunday, August 30

-

-Had chill and fever, the chill held me four or five days.

-

-

-

-September 1846

-

-Thursday, September 10

-

-I still continue very weak and troubled with pain in stomach, etc.

-President Young and Dr. Richards called and brought me a letter from

-David; also said they had got me employment writing at a dollar a day

-or 3c on every hundred words copying.

-

-Saturday, September 12

-

-Still quite unwell. President Young brought me $8.00 in money, one half

-dollar bogus and soon after Dr. Richards sent me some letters to copy

-which I did.

-

-Tuesday, September 15

-

-This evening I copied a letter to Joseph F. Herring and having no one

-to send it by I took it to council myself. Before I got half way there

-my knees failed me and it was with great difficulty I got there and

-home again. When I got back to Pitt's shanty my spirit failed me for I

-was not aware of my weakness.

-

-Saturday, September 19

-

-Since Tuesday I have scarcely been out of bed, but today I feel

-somewhat better again.

-

-Sunday, September 20

-

-A little better. I have been told that President Young has virtually

-cursed all who have gone to Missouri or those who shall go hereafter.

-

-Monday, September 21

-

-This evening about ten o'clock all the men of the camp were ordered

-up armed to meet in this square forthwith. I got up and after a very

-little while quite a company of the brethren got together. President

-Hales informed them that the President had received a letter from Mr.

-Sarpey informing him that two gentlemen from Missouri had informed him

-confidentially that the Missourians had got out writs for the twelve

-and others and were coming with a large force on the west side of the

-river to attack the camp by surprise, etc. He advised the brethren to

-have their arms clean and their ammunition ready at a moment's warning,

-to pray with their families, keep dogs tied up at nights, etc., etc.

-The company was then dismissed except a guard for the camp.

-

-Tuesday, September 22

-

-This morning the brethren were ordered to meet at the springs below

-here at nine o'clock. At the sound of the drum the brethren met and

-here organized into four battalions, one of artillery, and three

-of infantry. There were about three hundred brethren present. The

-President then stated that he had received a letter from Sarpey

-informing him that two gentlemen, confidentially, from Missouri had

-informed him that the Missourians were collecting with the sheriff

-of Missouri, their head designing to attack the saints, that they

-had writs, etc., for the twelve and others. He had ordered out the

-brethren that they might be ready in case of necessity and advised

-them to organize and be prepared. Markham was elected Colonel over the

-battalions. Hosea Stout, Lieutenant Colonel over the battalions and

-over the first battalions and over the first battalions of infantry.

-John Scott was elected 1st major and major over the artillery. Henry

-Herriman 2nd major to take command of the 2nd battalion of infantry and

-John S. Gleason 3rd major over the 3rd battalion of infantry. After

-organizing the President addressed the companies and then dismissed

-them. It was advised to quit leaving and move the encampment to the

-fort on the river. A number of teams moved this afternoon.

-

-Wednesday, September 23

-

-This morning President Young and many others have moved down to the

-river. Heber told me to wait till the lots were selected and he would

-let me know when to move. My health is improving.

-

-Thursday, September 24

-

-Very cold all day. I did not feel so well. I have been told that Daniel

-H. Wells and William Cutler have arrived in camp and brought a report

-that there has been a battle fought in Nauvoo and some of the brethren

-killed.

-

-Friday, September 25

-

-I learned today that the mob had made it known that they were coming

-to drive out the "Mormons." The Governor sent an officer to raise

-volunteers to disperse the mob, but the mob learning this they came

-sooner than they had calculated. The brethren being apprised of

-the intentions of the mob prepared to meet them as well as their

-circumstances would permit. Some of the new citizens also made

-preparations to join the brethren. They made five cannon shot of an

-old steam boat shaft. They also filled some barrels with powder, old

-iron, etc., which were buried in the pass to the city which could

-be fired by a slow match but this was of no avail as some traitors

-informed the mob of it, hence they did not come into the settled part

-of the city. On Saturday the 12th inst., the mob made their appearance

-being about twelve hundred in number. The brethren and some of the

-new citizens in the whole about one hundred and sixty went to give

-them battle, but many of the new citizens and some of the brethren

-when they saw the numbers of the mob fled and left about one hundred,

-nearly all brethren, to fight the enemy. The mob had pieces of cannon.

-They met near Boscow's store on Winchester street. The cannon of the

-mob were two blocks from the brethren and the other part of rifle men

-one block from them. The mob fired a number of times into Barlow's old

-barn expecting many of the brethren were concealed there but in this

-they were disappointed, the brethren chiefly lying down on the ground

-behind some shelter and fired in that position. They fought one hour

-and twenty minutes when the mob offered terms of compromise which were

-these, that all the "Mormons" should leave the city within five days

-leaving ten families to finish the unsettled business. The brethren

-consented to this inasmuch as they had been well informed that 1,500

-more were coming to join the mob and they had nothing to expect from

-the authorities of the state. Lyman Johnson, one of the twelve, headed

-a party of the mob from Keokuk, Iowa territory. Three of the brethren

-were killed, viz. William Anderson, his son, and Norris, a blacksmith.

-Three others wounded. The mob would not own to any of their party being

-killed but one person saw them put sixteen men into one wagon and

-handled them more like dead persons than wounded. The ground where they

-stood was pretty much covered with blood, so that there is no doubt

-they had many slain or wounded. They had 150 baggage wagons. Esquire

-Wells took command of the brethren and rode to and fro during the whole

-battle without receiving injury, although the balls whistled by him on

-every side. Amos Davis fought bravely. While running across a plowed

-field he stumbled and fell on his left arm which formed a triangle with

-his head. As he fell a cannon ball passed through the angle of his

-arm between that and his head. Hiram Kimball received a slight wound

-with a musket ball on the forehead. The mob fired sixty-two shots with

-the cannon and ten rounds with the muskets making 12,000 musket balls

-only killing three and wounding three. The brethren did not fire so

-much in proportion but did much more execution. Truly, the Lord fights

-the battles of his saints. The cannon of the brethren was not of much

-service, they would not carry more than a quarter of a mile, whereas

-those of the mob would hold well a half a mile. They shot nine balls

-through a small smith shop, one through Wells' barn and one at his

-house but the ball struck the ground in front of his house and glanced

-through the well curb. The mayor of Quincy watched the battle from the

-tower of the temple and owned that history never afforded a parallel.

-The brethren then began to get their families and effects over the

-river where they remain in a suffering and destitute condition until

-wagons and means are sent from the saints to their relief. On the

-Thursday following, the mob, 1,200 strong, entered the city. 'Tis said

-from good authority that such is the distress and sufferings of the

-saints as actually to draw tears from this mob.

-

-Saturday, September 26

-

-Russell told me that he had selected three lots for us and we could go

-as soon as we had a mind to. He saw Heber on the subject. I made up my

-mind to start on Monday for Winter Quarters.

-

-Sunday, September 27

-

-This morning Brother Smithies came with six yoke of Heber's cattle

-and said we must be ready to start in five minutes while he went to

-water his cattle and although we had everything unprepared we were

-ready before he got back. I felt well enough to drive a team. We

-took six wagons down and camped on the same block with Heber in Cape

-Disappointment. James and Pitt went back to wait for Corbitt who was

-herding cows and in the evening returned with three more wagons.

-

-Monday, September 28

-

-Got the balance of the wagons and poles, etc., down. I copied three

-letters for Dr. Richards.

-

-Tuesday, September 29

-

-Corbitt has started down into the country to fetch potatoes, etc.

-

-

-

-November 1846

-

-Sunday, November 1

-

-During the last month several times I have been very sick and then

-again would be somewhat better. I still continue to be feeble and

-unable to work. I have one house nearly finished and shall in a few

-days occupy it. Thomas Corbitt has been down the river to fetch a

-load of corn on shares but President Young told me to take the whole

-of it for which I feel very grateful. I have sent my cattle to the

-rushes to be wintered, having but eight tons of hay although James and

-Corbitt worked from twenty-six to thirty days but Russell and Rolfe

-have contrived to work it into their hands, taking as Rolfe said, half

-of Corbitt's hay for herding my cattle while he was in the hay field.

-I think this is as wrong a piece of business as has been played on me

-through the journey.

-

-

-

-January 1847

-

-_Winter Quarters_

-

-Friday, January 1

-

-Morning at the store. At 2:00 p.m. went with Diantha to her father's

-and partook of a roast turkey for dinner. At 4:00 met the band at the

-Basket Shop and played about an hour and a half. The basket makers

-made each of us a present of a new basket and showed their gratitude

-various ways. At 6:00 met with the band at Father Kimball's and played

-for a party till after one o'clock. President Young and Kimball danced

-considerable and all seemed to feel well.

-

-Saturday, January 2

-

-At the store regulating the books and making out Whitney and Woolley's

-account current, etc. About 2:00 p.m. Sarah came and said her mother

-wanted me. Moroni had fallen into the fire and burned himself very

-badly. I went home and found as she said. All over the left side of

-his head burned, his face very badly burned, large blisters round his

-left eye. I immediately applied some consecrated oil and ordered them

-to keep it on all the time. I then returned to the store. Evening

-President Young came and took his hardware bill, domestic drilling,

-etc. About 8:00 p.m. I went home.

-

-Sunday, January 3

-

-Moroni's face seems much better, all except around his left eye which

-looks very bad. I was at the store all day working at Whitney's account

-current which seems very bad to regulate. Evening Heber, his wife

-Ellen, Sarah Ann and Sister Whitney came in to trade and remained till

-about ten o'clock.

-

-Monday, January 4

-

-At the store all day. Evening waiting on Orson Pratt and Amasa Lyman.

-Paid my tax today, $2.171/2 to I. C. Wright.

-

-Tuesday, January 5

-

-At the store all day. Evening the band met at my house.

-

-Wednesday, January 6

-

-At the store all day, the weather extremely cold.

-

-Thursday, January 7

-

-At the store, the weather still colder than yesterday. Evening went to

-Sister Buel's and took supper of turkey. Afterwards went to Leonard's

-and played for them with Hutchinson and Smithies till 12:00.

-

-Friday, January 8

-

-At the store again, the weather still colder. Evening the band met at

-my house and played some.

-

-Saturday, January 9

-

-At the store all day. Quite unwell till 9:00 p.m.

-

-Sunday, January 10

-

-At home mostly all day. About 2:00 p.m. went to Hutchinson's to dinner.

-

-Monday, January 11

-

-At the store all day, the weather more moderate. Margaret and her boy

-doing well. Last night Pitt returned from Missouri.

-

-Tuesday, January 12

-

-This morning Ruth began to feel unwell. I went to the store and

-continued settlements as usual. Brothers Lee and Russell returned

-from Missouri, having obtained change for the checks. About 4:00 p.m.

-President Young and J. D. Lee came to Bishop Whitney's and I

-received in gold $496.17, and in silver $1,080.52 out of three checks

-which Lee took value $2,447.32, the balance to be accounted for

-hereafter. Soon as I was through receiving the money, I was informed

-that my folks had sent for me and I went home soon after, found that

-Ruth had brought forth a son twenty minutes after 5:00 p.m. She had a

-pretty hard time, but feels comfortable as can be expected. The boy is

-named Newel Horace. Evening I met with the band at Johnson's and played

-till about 11:00 p.m. The house was very much crowded and not much room

-to dance, but they kept it up freely.

-

-Wednesday, January 13

-

-This morning Ruth feels more comfortable. At the store all day waiting

-for Lee and Russel to settle. Evening Russel came and I received from

-him in gold $177.50, and in silver $363.19. He also accounted for

-$150.00 paid to Heber and $30.00 to Daniel Russel out of a check value

-$732.53 leaving him deficit $11.84. Spent the evening at home.

-

-Thursday, January 14

-

-At the store paying out a pair of the money, expecting before I made

-final payments to settle with Lee and Egan.

-

-Friday, January 15

-

-Spent an hour with Lee and Egan at my house but did not accomplish

-much towards a settlement. Afterwards at the store paying out money,

-settling, etc., filled bills for Pisgah & Garden Grove.

-

-Saturday, January 16

-

-At the store again paying, settling, etc., all day. The weather very

-cold. My folks doing well.

-

-Sunday, January 17

-

-At home mostly all day.

-

-Monday, January 18

-

-At the store all day, mostly paying money to the soldiers' wives.

-

-Tuesday, January 19

-

-At the store paying money, etc.

-

-Wednesday, January 20

-

-At the store paying money, etc.

-

-Thursday, January 21

-

-At the store paying money, etc.

-

-Friday, January 22

-

-At the store paying money, etc. Evening went with Hutchinson to

-Packer's party and played for the party in the smoke till near midnight.

-

-Saturday, January 23

-

-At the store all day paying money, etc. Evening met with Pitt and

-Hutchinson at the council house.

-

-Sunday, January 24

-

-Headache all day having taken cold last evening. Mostly at home. A few

-hours at the store over the river and back. Night played with Pitt

-awhile.

-

-Monday, January 25

-

-At the store, very busy paying money, etc. Snowed some and is cold.

-Whitney let me have some goods. Evening walked alone.

-

-Tuesday, January 26

-

-At the store till 2:00 p.m. Afterward went with the Quadrille Band to

-the Council House agreeably to previous notice and played for a party

-of men (70's) and their families who had assisted in building the

-house. They danced till about midnight. We had plenty to eat and drink

-through the interview and a very pleasant party.

-

-Wednesday, January 27

-

-At the store again till noon. At 2:00 p.m. at the Council House with

-the Quadrille Band and played for another company of those who had

-assisted in building the house. We had plenty of refreshments and a

-very sociable party as on yesterday. Broke up again about midnight.

-

-Thursday, January 28

-

-At the store till noon, and then at the Council House with the

-Quadrille Band playing for the third party of those who had assisted in

-building the house, together with the poor basket makers.

-

-Friday, January 29

-

-At home and the store. Felt quite unwell.

-

-Saturday, January 30

-

-At the store all day settling and paying money to soldiers' wives.

-

-Sunday, January 31

-

-At home all day. Dined with Diantha, Ruth, Margaret and mother Farr on

-a turkey.

-

-

-

-February 1847

-

-Monday, February 1

-

-At the store all day settling accounts, paying money, etc.

-

-Tuesday, February 2

-

-At the store till noon. Afterwards at the Council House with the

-Quadrille Band playing for Brigham's family generally.

-

-Wednesday, February 3

-

-At the store till noon. Afterwards at the Council House with the

-Quadrille Band to play for a family meeting of the Young family.

-President Brigham Young was quite sick and seemed very low spirited.

-After the meeting had been opened by prayer, the President called on

-his brothers to stand up by him in the center of the room which they

-did according to age. John Young took his place at the head, then

-Phineas, Joseph, Brigham and Lorenzo. The President then called on

-Heber to take his place in the line inasmuch as he had been recognized

-about fifteen years as a member of the Young family. He took his place

-between Joseph and Brigham. The President then said this was the first

-time that father Young's boys had been together in the same capacity

-for a number of years, etc. After a few remarks the remainder of the

-evening was spent by partaking of a good supper and cheerful dancing

-till about two in the morning, when the party broke up in the best of

-spirits and good feeling.

-

-Thursday, February 4

-

-At the store mostly, evening at home.

-

-Friday, February 5

-

-At the store till noon, then with the Quadrille Band to play for the

-Silver Greys till midnight.

-

-Saturday, February 6

-

-At the store all day.

-

-Sunday, February 7

-

-At home.

-

-Monday, February 8

-

-At the store all day.

-

-Tuesday, February 9

-

-At the store till 10:00 a.m. Then went with the Quadrille Band in

-Eldridge's carriage to play round the city, but the weather was so cold

-we could not play much. At 2:00 p.m., met with--

-

-_[No pages from here until April.]_

-

-

-

-April 1847

-

-...into camp from England which will probably detain the camp a few days.

-

-Friday, April 9

-

-Went with the Quadrille Band over the River as the twelve do not

-start for the Horn today. We played in the boat as we crossed, but in

-returning the wind was high, the boat heavily loaded with cattle and

-dangerous crossing.

-

-Saturday, April 10

-

-At home nearly all day.

-

-Sunday, April 11

-

-At home and Farr's. I told Winslow Farr concerning Hosea Stout's

-threats to take my life after the Twelve are gone, etc. He called at

-night on his return from the Council and told me to be on my guard.

-

-Monday, April 12

-

-At home all day. Thomas and James had planted a number of garden seeds

-on Saturday. Today, they are cutting wood and preparing to go to the

-farm tomorrow. I have no hay, neither can I get any for my cows and

-horses.

-

-Tuesday, April 13

-

-At home most of the day. Thomas and James started for the farm. Evening

-went to the store and told Brigham and Heber about Hosea Stout's

-calculations, etc.

-

-Wednesday, April 14

-

-This morning severely pained with rheumatism in my face. At 11:00 a.m.

-Brigham and Dr. Richards came. Brigham told me to rise up and start

-with the pioneers in half an hour's notice. I delivered to him the

-records of the K. of G. and set my folks to work to get my clothes

-together to start with the pioneers. At two o'clock I left my family

-and started in Heber's carriage with Heber and Wm. Kimball and Ellen

-Sanders. Bishop Whitney and Lyman went out with us in another wagon.

-We went about 19 miles and camped on the prairie. After supper Heber

-prayed and we retired to rest.

-

-Thursday, April 15

-

-After eating and prayers by Bishop Whitney, started at half past seven

-and got to the Elk Horn at 11:30. We were all across at 12:00 and there

-we overtook Brigham, G. A. Smith, E. T. Benson and Amasa

-Lyman. We arrived at the pioneers' Camp about 3:00 p.m. This camp is

-about twelve miles from the Elk Horn and about 47 from Winter Quarters.

-I spent the evening with Aaron Farr, Horace Whitney and Jackson Redding.

-

-Friday, April 16

-

-This day is gloomy, windy and cold. About 8:00 a.m. the camp was called

-together, and organized two captains of 100's viz. Stephen Markham

-and A. P. Rockwood were appointed, also five captains of 50's

-and 14 captains of 10's. There are 143 men and boys on the list of

-the pioneer company, three women and Lorenzo Young's two children.

-There are 73 wagons. C. P. Rockwell has gone back to camp with

-J. C. Little. Bishop Whitney, Lyman, Wm. Kimball and J. B.

-Noble returned from here to Winter Quarters. The following is a list of

-all the names of this pioneer company. To wit:

-

-Wilford Woodruff, John S. Fowler, Jacob Burnham, Orson Pratt, Joseph

-Egbert, John N. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, George A. Smith, George

-Wardle, Thomas Grover, Ezra T. Benson, Barnabas L. Adams, Roswell

-Stevens, Amasa Lyman, Sterling Driggs, Albert Carrington, Thomas

-Bullock, George Brown, Willard Richards, Jesse C. Little, Phineas H.

-Young, John Y. Greene, Thomas Tanner, Brigham Young, Addison Everett,

-Truman O. Angel, Lorenzo Young and wife, Bryant Stringham, Albert

-P. Rockwood, Joseph L. Schofield, Luke Johnson, John Holman, Edmund

-Elsworth, Alvarnus Hanks, George R. Grant, Millen Atwood, Samuel Fox,

-Tunis Rappleyee, Harvey Pierce, William Dykes, Jacob Weiler, Stephen H.

-Goddard, Tarlton Lewis, Henry G. Sherwood, Zebedee Coltrin, Sylvester

-H. Earl, John Dixon, Samuel H. Marble, George Scholes, William Henrie,

-William A. Empey, Charles Shumway, Thomas Woolsey, Chancy Loveland,

-Erastus Snow, Andrew Shumway, James Craig, William Wordsworth, William

-Vance, Simeon Howd, Seeley Owen, James Case, Artemas Johnson, William

-A. Smoot, Franklin B. Dewey, William Carter, Franklin G. Losee, Burr

-Frost, Datus Ensign, Franklin B. Stewart, Monroe Frink, Eric Glines,

-Ozro Eastman, Seth Taft, Horace Thornton, Stephen Kelsey, John S.

-Eldredge, Charles D. Barnum, Alma M. Williams, Rufus Allen, Robert T.

-Thomas, James W. Stuart, Elijah Newman, Levi N. Kendall, Francis Boggs,

-David Grant, Heber C. Kimball, Howard Egan, William A. King, Thomas

-Cloward, Hosea Cushing, Robert Byard, George Billings, Edson Whipple,

-Philo Johnson, William Clayton, Appleton M. Harmon, Carlos Murray,

-Horace K. Whitney, Orson K. Whitney, Orrin P. Rockwell, Nathaniel

-Thomas Brown, R. Jackson Redding, John Pack, Francis M. Pomroy, Aaron

-Farr, Nathaniel Fairbanks, John S. Higbee, John Wheeler, Solomon

-Chamberlain, Conrad Kleinman, Joseph Rooker, Perry Fitzgerald, John H.

-Tippets, James Davenport, Henson Walker, Benjamin Rolfe, Norton Jacobs,

-Charles A. Harper, George Woodard, Stephen Markham, Lewis Barney,

-George Mills, Andrew Gibbons, Joseph Hancock, John W. Norton, Shadrach

-Roundy, Hans C. Hanson, Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, John Brown, Mathew

-Ivory, David Powell, (Hark Lay, Oscar Crosby, blacks) Joseph Mathews,

-Gilbroid Summe, John Gleason, Charles Burke, Alexander P. Chessley,

-Rodney Badger, Norman Taylor, (Green Flake, black) Ellis Eames.

-

-There were 72 wagons, 93 horses, 52 mules, 66 oxen, 19 cows, and 17

-dogs, and chickens.

-

-The names of the females in this camp are: Harriet Page Young, Clarissa

-Decker, and Ellen Sanders. The names of the children are Isaac Perry

-Decker Young and Sabisky L. Young, making a total of 148 souls who have

-started to go west of the mountains as pioneers to find a home where

-the saints can live in peace and enjoy the fruits of their labors,

-and where we shall not be under the dominion of gentile governments,

-subject to the wrath of mobs and where the standards of peace can be

-raised, the Ensign to nations reared and the kingdom of God flourish

-until truth shall prevail, and the saints enjoy the fulness of the

-gospel.

-

-The following are the names of the captains of 50's as appointed at

-this organization, viz. Addison Everett, Tarlton Lewis, James Case,

-John Pack and Shadrack Roundy. The captains of 10's are as follows:

-

-Wilford Woodruff, Ezra T. Benson, Phineas H. Young, Luke Johnson,

-Stephen H. Goddard, Charles Shumway, James Case, Seth Taft, Howard

-Egan, Appleton M. Harmon, John S. Higbee, Norton Jacobs, John Brown,

-Joseph Mathews. For the names of the guard and the gun division see

-under date of April 30th.

-

-Stephen Markham was appointed the Captain of the Guard and ordered to

-select out of the camp, fifty men for guard, such as he had confidence

-in who are to be considered as a standing guard, to attend to the

-wagons each night, twelve of them to stand at a time, and to have

-two sets each night, that is, 12 each watch to stand half the night.

-In cases where the horses and cattle are tied some distance from the

-wagons at night, an extra guard is to be selected from the balance of

-the company or camp, the standing guard not being permitted to leave

-the immediate neighborhood of the wagons. After the organization was

-over, I wrote a letter to Diantha, and put it into the hands of Bishop

-Whitney, together with the one I received yesterday from father and

-I. McEwan, also the one from Ellen to James. Up to 12:00 a.m. I had

-no place to put my trunk and clothing, and did not know what to do

-with them. However, soon after Heber told me to put them in Appleton

-M. Harmon's wagon, which was done. At 2:00 p m. the camp started out

-to proceed on the journey. I bid farewell to to Bishop Whitney and

-his brother Lyman and son Joshua, who all returned from this place,

-also Wm. H. Kimball and Joseph B. Noble. We traveled about three miles

-and encamped in a line about six hundred yards from timber, where

-there is plenty of cottonwood and some rushes. This night I slept

-with Philo Johnson, but having only one quilt, and the night severely

-cold, I suffered much, and took a very bad cold. The country in the

-neighborhood of the Elk Horn is one of the most beautiful I ever saw.

-The bluffs on the east are nicely rolling and beautifully lined with

-timber, and some very nice cedar groves. From these bluffs a little

-above the ferry you can see the meanderings of the Platte River, and

-the beautiful level bottom on the north of it, about fifteen miles wide

-for many miles up the river. The Horn is a beautiful river about 150

-feet wide and about four feet deep.

-

-Saturday, April 17

-

-This morning the weather is severely cold, with a strong wind from the

-north and northwest. We started out at nine o'clock and traveled till

-near 12:00 the distance being about seven miles. We camped close by a

-cottonwood grove, and the brethren fell hundreds of them to feed their

-teams and save corn. There is a small lake close by but the water is

-not good and the brethren go to the river about a half a mile. At 5:00

-p.m. the camps were called together and organized in military order as

-follows:

-

-Brigham Young, Lieutenant General.

-

-Stephen Markham, Colonel.

-

-John Pack and Shadrack Roundy, Majors.

-

-The captains of 10's to be captains of 10's in this order, except John

-Pack, who being appointed major, Appleton M. Harmon was appointed

-captain in his stead.

-

-Thomas Bullock, clerk of the camp. Thomas Tanner captain of the cannon

-with the privilege of choosing eight men to manage it in case of

-necessity. The President then said: "After we start from here, every

-man must keep his loaded gun in his hand, or in the wagon where he

-can put his hand on it at a moment's warning. If they are cap locks,

-take off the cap and put on a little leather to keep wet and etc. out.

-If flint locks, take out the priming and fill the pan with twine or

-cotton," etc.

-

-The wagons must keep together when traveling, and not separate as they

-have previously done, and every man to walk beside his own wagon, and

-not leave it only by permission. A while before evening one of the

-trader's wagons came from the Pawnee village, loaded with furs and

-peltry, and camped about one quarter of a mile below us. At night Eames

-and Hanson played some on their violins. All peace and quietness. At

-night I slept with Egan in Heber's wagon, Heber being gone to sleep

-with President Young.

-

-Sunday, April 18

-

-This morning I wrote a letter for Heber to his wife Vilate, which was

-sent by Brother Ellis Eames who has concluded to go back on account of

-poor health, spitting blood, etc. He started back with the trader's

-wagon about eight o'clock a.m. The wind this morning east and southeast

-and very cold, with a slight shower of snow. At 10:00 a.m. seven more

-traders' wagons came in and stopped about one quarter of a mile below

-us, soon after six mules loaded with robes and furs. These traders

-say they have come from the Pawnee village in two days. Brother

-Roundy got some Buffalo meat from them and gave me a little, which

-I thought tasted very good. I commenced writing Heber's journal and

-wrote considerable. He wants me to write his journal all the journey.

-I also wrote considerable in this book. Afternoon the weather more

-moderate and pleasant, the wind has changed near south and the sun

-shines. I walked with Horace Whitney to the river which is about a

-half a mile. At 4:30 p.m. father James Case was cutting a cottonwood

-tree to brouse his horses, and just as it fell the wind struck it and

-threw it directly contrary to the direction he intended it to fall. The

-consequence was, one of the limbs struck an ox on the neck and knocked

-him down. His right eye was knocked down in the socket out of sight.

-The ox doesn't seem seriously hurt otherwise. About 10 minutes after it

-was done, the eye turned back to its place, and the ox seems to have

-sustained little injury. At 5:00 p.m., the officers of the camp met

-with President Young, and he told the order for traveling and camping

-hereafter, which was communicated to the companies by the captains of

-10's as follows:

-

-At 5:00 in the morning the bugle is to be sounded as a signal for

-every man to arise and attend prayers before he leaves his wagon. Then

-cooking, eating, feeding teams, etc., till seven o'clock, at which time

-the camp is to move at the sound of the bugle. Each teamster to keep

-beside his team, with his loaded gun in his hands or in his wagon where

-he can get it in a moment. The extra men, each to walk opposite his

-wagon with his loaded gun on his shoulder, and no man to be permitted

-to leave his wagon unless he obtains permission from his officer. In

-case of an attack from Indians or hostile appearances, the wagons to

-travel in double file. The order of encampment to be in a circle with

-the mouth of the wagon to the outside, and the horses and stock tied

-inside the circle. At 8:30 p.m. the bugle to be sounded again at which

-time all to have prayers in their wagons and to retire to rest by nine

-o'clock. Tonight I went to bed about seven-thirty o'clock suffering

-severely with pain in my head and face. I slept with Philo Johnson.

-

-Monday, April 19

-

-At 5:00 a.m., at the sound of the bugle I arose, my face still paining

-me very badly. After eating breakfast, I started out on foot, before

-the wagons started, with my rifle on my shoulder. At 7:15 the wagons

-began to move and at 7:30 were all formed in double file and proceeded

-on. After traveling about eight miles we arrived at a number of small

-lakes, where were many ducks. A number of the brethren shot at them and

-killed several. At 1:15 p.m. we arrived at a bend in the river where a

-small stream runs around an island.

-

-We stayed here to feed awhile, having traveled about fifteen miles

-mostly a western course with the wind south. The roads very good and

-the country very level on these flat bottoms of the Platte river

-which bottoms appear to be from ten to fifteen miles wide. Soon

-after the camp was formed, O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding, and

-J. C. Little came in from Winter Quarters. They arrived at 2:10.

-They have found Dr. Richard's mare which was lost east of the Elk

-Horn and brought her to camp. They brought me a line from Diantha

-and one from Ruth and Margaret. In the last was a very gentle piece

-of information which has caused me to reflect much, and proves to me

-that Ruth and Margaret's virtue and integrity have for the last year

-been far superior to mine. In my letter to them I requested them to

-attend to family prayer in my absence, a thing which I have neglected

-since leaving Nauvoo. They informed me that they had done that when I

-was at home but unknown to me, and they had then, and still continue

-to bear me up before their Heavenly Father. Oh, what integrity, what

-faithfulness. I feel unworthy to possess two such treasures, but still

-feel to try to reward them for it, and may my Father in heaven bless

-them, and all my family and let his angels guard them, and me during

-my absence that we may all be permitted to meet again and enjoy each

-other's society in this world for many years to come, and eternal

-in the world to come. O! Lord, grant this prayer of thine unworthy

-servant, and fill my family with peace and union, and open a way that

-they may have the necessaries and comforts of life, and Thy name shall

-have the praise, even so, amen.

-

-I received by Porter, some few fish hooks and lines, a ball of fish

-line and three pencils, but no small hooks nor knives or wafers. At

-twenty minutes after 3:00 p.m. the wagons began to move again, in the

-same order as this morning and traveled until 6:00 p.m. when we arrived

-at a very pretty open view of the Platte river, and the encampment was

-formed in a semi-circle on its banks, having traveled since noon, about

-five miles, and in the whole day 20 miles, over the same kind of dry,

-level, sandy bottom. The river here appears to be about a mile wide

-but very shoal. There is not much timber where we are camped, and the

-water is pretty muddy. I walked some this afternoon in company with

-Orson Pratt and suggested to him the idea of fixing a set of wooden cog

-wheels to the hub of a wagon wheel, in such order as to tell the exact

-number of miles we travel each day. He seemed to agree with me that it

-could be easily done at a trifling expense. After the encampment was

-formed, I went to Brother Luke Johnson and asked him to draw my tooth

-which has pained me so much for a long time. While I was speaking to

-him Stephen Markham came up, and wanted him to take his team and the

-Revenue Cutter the name by which the leather boat is called back about

-two miles, as they designed to seine in one of the lakes. Brother Luke

-Johnson drives the team which draws the boat and rides in the boat as

-in a wagon. I concluded I would go and watch them fish and started out

-on foot. I overtook Markham and John S. Higbee and in our conversation

-I mentioned to Brother John S. Higbee the same idea I had advanced to

-Orson Pratt, and he also seemed to coincide fully. After arriving at

-the lake they launched the boat and made three hauls. They only caught

-a snapping turtle, four small turtles, one duck, two small cat fish,

-and two creek suckers. They then concluded to return and I started on

-foot again with two rifles to carry. I got back to camp before they

-overtook me and being perfectly tired and very footsore, went to bed,

-but had no rest on account of the severe pain in my head and face.

-

-Tuesday, April 20

-

-Arose at 5:30, my head and face very bad indeed. I ate but little

-breakfast, although we had a couple of ducks and a snipe. We started

-out at 7:30, the morning pleasant except a strong west wind. At 9:15

-arrived at Shell creek, which is about six or eight feet wide, and a

-poor bridge over it, but all the wagons got well over. This is about

-five miles from where we camped last night. We then passed through a

-small grove of timber, and entered again upon the wide, open prairie

-bottom. At 11:30 we stopped beside a small slough or lake to feed and

-eat, etc., being five miles from Shell creek. While stopping here,

-three deer passed about half a mile west of the wagons. O. P.

-Rockwell and Thomas Brown chased them on horses four or five miles, but

-did not succeed in taking any of them. The wind has fallen considerably

-and it is very warm and dusty. At 1:00 p.m. started again, the horse

-teams taking the lead, traveled about ten miles farther and encamped

-near a cotton wood grove on the banks of the river. The encampment was

-formed about half past five. Tanner's bellows and anvil were set up and

-a number of tires set before dark.

-

-John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, S. Markham, and some others, started

-ahead of the camp about noon, and went about two miles farther than

-this place to a lake with the boat and seine. They took over 200 very

-nice fish, and arrived with them about the time the camp was formed.

-The fish were distributed around the camp according to the number of

-persons in each wagon, generally two to a wagon, and the brethren

-enjoyed a good supper on fish. I went to the river and washed my feet

-which were very dusty and sore. I also washed my socks as well as I

-could in cold water without soap. After Brother Luke Johnson had got

-through distributing fish, I went and asked him to draw my tooth. He

-willingly agreed and getting his instruments, I sat down in a chair,

-he lanced the gum, then took his nippers and jerked it out. The whole

-operation did not take more than one minute. He only got half the

-original tooth, the balance being left in the jaw. After this my head

-and face pained me much more than before. I ate but little supper and

-then lay down, but could not sleep for pain till near morning. The

-evening was very calm and pleasant.

-

-Wednesday, April 21

-

-Arose at 5:00, my face easier, but swollen and my gums raw. Took

-breakfast on fish and coffee, but ate no bread, it being very dry and

-hard. I could not bear to put it in my mouth. At seven started on

-foot; the ox teams being gone ahead. Some appearances of rain, and a

-slight shower fell. Wind northeast and pretty cool. At ten minutes to

-nine an Indian rode up to the first wagon and appeared very friendly.

-Soon after six or eight others came running on foot. They came from

-the timber about a mile to the left. At 10:00 we arrived at a fork in

-the road, the one on the left leading to the new Pawnee village, and

-the one to the right leaving the village some distance to the south. A

-consultation was held by President Young with father Case relative to

-the roads crossing the river, etc., when it was concluded to take the

-right hand road. We proceeded accordingly and at 12:00 came in sight

-of the new Pawnee village, in an open spot on the south bank of the

-Loop Fork, between two bodies of timber. The village appeared to be

-about three quarters of a mile south of the road we were on. At 12:30

-we were opposite the village, and could then see distinctly upwards

-of 100 lodges set pretty close together, and appeared to be ranged in

-several lines, and set in good order. We proceeded until we arrived at

-a long narrow lake by the side of the timber and near to the river. At

-1:00 p.m. the encampment was formed on the bank of the lake and a guard

-instantly placed at the passes, as many of the Indians had followed us,

-although they had to wade the river, but it is very shoal. One of the

-Indians presented several certificates from persons who had previously

-traveled through their village, all certifying that the Grand Chief of

-the Pawnees was friendly disposed, and they had made him presents of

-a little powder, lead, salt, etc. Heber gave them a little tobacco,

-and a little salt. President Young gave to the chief, some powder,

-lead, salt and a number of the brethren gave a little flour each. The

-old chief, however, did not seem to think the presents sufficient,

-and said he did not like us to go west through their country, he was

-afraid we should kill their buffalo and drive them off. Brother Shumway

-told him we did not like buffalo, but this does not appear to give

-him much satisfaction. However, there was no appearance of hostility.

-In fact, all that came to camp seemed highly pleased to shake hands

-with our brethren and would run from one side to another so as not

-to miss one. A number of the squaws were on the opposite side of the

-lake with mattocks digging roots. Brother Shumway says there are

-about twelve thousand of the Pawnees in this neighborhood, and it is

-reported that there are five thousand warriors. We did not see many of

-them. Larpy is at their village trading, and it is uncertain whether

-he will endeavor to use an influence for us or against us. We have no

-fear, however, because their only object appears to be plunder, and it

-is the calculation to be well prepared by night and day. During the

-resting hour I spent the time writing in my journal. At 2:15 p.m. the

-ox teams started out again and the horse teams soon after. The weather

-had been calm and pleasant for a few hours, but about 2:00 or a little

-before, some heavy clouds began to gather, and thunder was heard at a

-distance. About 2:30 the rain began to descend heavily, accompanied by

-heavy peals of thunder and vivid lightning which continued till about

-4:00. A strong north wind blew up, the rain and thunder ceased and the

-weather grew very cold. We traveled till 5:30 and the encampment was

-formed on the Loop Fork of the Platte river. After the encampment was

-formed and teams turned out, the brethren were all called together and

-some remarks made by President Young, advising them to have a strong

-guard round the camps tonight. He called for volunteers to stand guard

-and about 100 volunteered amongst whom were all the twelve except Dr.

-Richards. This guard was divided into two companies of fifty each, one

-company to stand the first half the night, and the remainder the last

-half. Those of the twelve who stood took the first watch till 1:00.

-Brigham and Heber both stood on guard. Out of the companies a party

-were stationed as a picket guard some distance from the camp, the

-balance stood near the camp. The night was very cold, with a strong

-wind from the northeast, and in the middle of the night, it rained

-considerable. Our course this morning was about west. This afternoon,

-northwest. We are now within three miles from the bluffs on the north.

-We have traveled today about twenty miles, the roads being good and

-very level. The grass here is short but looks good. The buffalo grass

-is very short and curly like the hair on a buffalo robe. The spring

-grass doesn't seem to be as early here as at the Elk Horn, and the last

-year's growth not being burnt off, will be rather a disadvantage to

-the spring companies. I have noticed all the way on this bottom from

-the Elk Horn, that the ground is full of wild onions which appear far

-richer and larger than any wild onions I ever saw. I have no idea that

-corn would grow here for the land is very dry and loose and sandy, and

-appears poor. The country is beautiful and pleasing to the eye of the

-traveler, although you can only see one kind of scenery for several

-days.

-

-Thursday, April 22

-

-Arose soon after 5:00 a.m., my face very painful again caused by the

-cold. There has been no trouble from the Indians and all is peace and

-safe. The cannon was prepared for action, and stood all night just

-outside the wagons. There was considerable joking this morning on

-account of two of the picket guard having their guns stolen and Colonel

-Markham having his hat stolen. The owners were found asleep while on

-guard and those who found them so, took their guns to be a warning

-to them, but it is difficult for men to keep awake night after night

-after traveling 20 miles in the day, taking care of teams, cooking,

-etc. At 7:30 the camp proceeded again. I went ahead on foot. About one

-quarter of a mile from where we camped is one of the prettiest beds

-of nettle I have seen for some time. Our road this morning lay beside

-pretty heavy timber, and about a westerly course. After traveling two

-miles, crossed Looking Glass creek, a small stream about a rod wide,

-but easily forded. I still went ahead on foot and at 9:45 sat down on

-an Indian grave, on top of a mound from whence is a splendid view of

-the surrounding country for many miles. From southeast to southwest you

-can see the course of the Loop Fork for a number of miles. Northwest a

-level prairie about four miles and then a range of timber. The bluffs

-on the north about seven miles distant, and on the east a level prairie

-for about twenty miles. At this place there is a range of what appears

-to be mounds about a quarter of a mile long, running from northeast to

-southwest. At 12:15 we arrived on the east bank of Beaver River, having

-traveled about ten miles. This stream is about twenty to twenty-five

-feet wide; swift, clear water and pleasant tasting. The banks are

-tolerably well lined with timber. Here we stopped to feed. Some of the

-brethren went to fix the fording place a little, the banks are steep

-on each side and the water a little over two feet deep. At 2:00 p.m.

-started again, the ox teams first. When passing the river a number of

-the brethren stood on the west bank with a long rope which was hooked

-to the wagon tongue and they assisted the teams up the bank. The wagon

-I rode in crossed at two minutes after 2:00, and in a little while all

-were safely over. We proceeded on till half past five, when we arrived

-at the Pawnee Missionary station which is about seven miles from Beaver

-River. The country this afternoon was more uneven, there being many

-steep ditches and rises. The grass appears longer and there is much

-rosing weed. The soil looks black and no doubt would yield a good crop

-of corn. This missionary station was deserted last fall, and Brother

-Miller's company being camped here, they carried the missionaries

-and their effects to Bellview on the Missouri river. This is a very

-beautiful place for a location. On the north and west it is surrounded

-by bluffs, on the south by the Loop Fork at about three quarters of a

-mile distance. On the east by descending prairie. The Plumb Creek runs

-through it, and but a few rods from the missionaries' house. Its banks

-are lined with a little timber. There is also a steep bank on each

-side, and between these banks in the valley which is a few rods wide,

-the Sioux have practiced coming down when they have made their attacks

-on the Pawnees. The ravine is certainly well calculated to shelter

-an enemy from observation when designing to make a sudden attack.

-There are a number of good log houses here, considerable land under

-improvement enclosed by rail fences, and a good quantity of hay and

-fodder, large lots of iron, old and new, several plows and a drag. All

-apparently left to rot. There are also two stoves, etc. The government

-station is a quarter of a mile below, or south where father Case lived

-as government farmer and received $300.00 a year for it, but when Major

-Harvey learned at the last payday, which was last November, that father

-Case had joined the "Mormons" he very politely dismissed him from the

-government service. The Sioux came down sometime ago and burned up

-the government station houses, blacksmith shop and everything, but

-the missionary station they did not touch. This place according to

-my account is 134 miles from Winter Quarters, and a lovely place to

-live. Before dark the President called the camp together, and told

-them they might use the fodder and hay for their teams, but forbade

-any man carrying anything away, even to the value of one cent. He said

-he had no fears of the Pawnees troubling us here, but we had better be

-prepared lest the Sioux should come down and try to steal horses. A

-guard was selected and a picket guard to watch the ravine to the north.

-The cannon was also prepared and Brother Tanner drilled his men to use

-it till dark. At 9:00 p.m. I retired to rest and slept well through the

-night. The variation of the compass is about 12 degrees at this place.

-

-I again introduced the subject of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to

-tell the distance we travel, describing the machinery and time it would

-take to make it, etc., several caught, the idea and feel confident of

-its success.

-

-Friday, April 23

-

-Arose this morning at 5:30, my face bad again through sleeping cold.

-The air chilly but a very pleasant morning. President Young, Heber and

-others are gone to the river to ascertain where we can best ford it.

-There is a ford a little distance from here, and another about four

-miles above, but the latter is in the neighborhood of another band of

-the Pawnees and they are desirous to avoid it if possible. They started

-out on horseback at a quarter to eight and the camp remained here till

-they returned. Some are working, some fixing wagons, etc. The day is

-now warm and very pleasant. I went to Plumb creek and washed my feet

-which are very sore. The brethren returned at a quarter to 12:00 and

-reported that we would have to go about four miles and there build

-a raft. Tarlton Lewis was appointed to superintend the building of

-the raft. President Young then stated in regard to the plows, iron,

-etc., which lies around here, for the government is owing father Case

-considerable for services, and he has the privilege of taking this for

-his pay. He will do it and if the brethren want the iron, etc., they

-can have by hauling it, one half, and father Case the other half, and

-he (Case) will write and inform them what he has done. I started on

-foot about 12:00 and viewed the ruins of buildings, etc., which the

-Sioux have burned. There is a large quantity of good bar iron, and a

-number of plows, which the brethren put into their wagons on the terms

-proposed by father Case. Two miles from Plumb creek, passed another

-creek not very good to ford, although it is narrow but sandy. Two miles

-farther arrived at the intended crossing place, but the prospect looks

-dull for rafting on account of sandbars and very rapid current. My feet

-were so sore and blistered I could not walk for some time after I got

-there. The sun is very hot and no wind. At 3:20 the wagons arrived and

-prepared to ford the river. Luke Johnson was the first who went over,

-leaving the boat on this side, and although he had no load, nor even a

-wagon box, it was with difficulty he got over. Orson Pratt started next

-with a part of his load. When he had got in about a rod, his horses

-began to sink some in the sand and they could not draw. A number of the

-brethren jumped in and lifted at the wheels, etc., till they got him to

-the bar in the middle. He then started for the other bar and about half

-way across his horses sank in the quicksand so badly that one of them

-fell down. A number of the men immediately went to his assistance and

-took them off the wagon and led them across to the sand bar. President

-Young went over in the boat and took the loading out of the carriage

-into the boat. The carriage was drawn to the sand bar by men with a

-long rope. The brethren then assisted Elder Woodruff's team over in

-the same way, also John Pack's and Wordsworth's. President Young then

-ordered that no more wagons should go over that way, but move up the

-river about a quarter of a mile and camp until morning. The camp was

-formed about 5:30 p.m. The river is not more than two feet deep, but

-there are a great many beds of quicksand which are dangerous to teams,

-and calculated to shake a wagon to pieces. They make a noise when

-crossing the quicksands as if they were going over a stone pavement.

-

-The country here is indeed beautiful and appears rich, but there is

-very little timber. After crossing Plumb creek, there is plowed land

-for nearly two miles on the right but not fenced. It appears to have

-yielded a good crop of corn. The land on the left to the river is level

-and beautiful for a farm. We are now camped about a quarter of a mile

-from the old Pawnee village on a splendid table of land, level and

-pleasant as heart could desire. It is not much over three quarters of

-a mile wide and shielded on the north by beautiful rolling bluffs and

-on the south by the Loop Fork of the Platte. From this bank can be seen

-the timber on the banks of the main Platte, the bottom from here to it

-appears very level. There is something romantic in the scenery around

-here, and the prospect cannot well be exaggerated.

-

-In the evening the captains of tens were called together and a vote

-taken to build two light rafts, Tarlton Lewis to superintend one and

-Thomas Woolsey the other. As many loads of property as can be carried

-over in the boat will be done, and the teams with empty wagons will

-ford it. It is said that by going over several times with teams the

-sand will pack down and be good crossing, several of those who have

-been across believe this from today's experience and they calculate to

-give it a fair trial tomorrow. Amongst the rest of those who waded the

-river to help the wagons over, Brother Kimball joined and assisted one

-team to the other side, and then returned in the boat with President

-Young.

-

-Saturday, April 24

-

-Arose soon after 5:00. Morning fine, but cool. One of Phineas Young's

-horses was choked to death last night. It appears he was tied to a

-stake with a chain near a steep hole in the ravine, and either stepped

-back or lay down and rolled over into the hole, and the chain being

-short he was choked to death, having no power to extricate himself.

-This is a grievous loss for there are no more teams in the camp than

-what are absolutely necessary, and in fact, there are hardly enough to

-get along very comfortably. By request of Brother Kimball, I went up to

-the old Indian village immediately after breakfast to take a view of

-it, and write a description as near as circumstances would permit which

-is as follows:

-

-This village is situated on the north bank of the Loop Fork of the

-Nebraska or Platte river, about four miles southwest of the mission

-station on Plumb creek and 138 miles from Winter Quarters. The Pawnee

-nation is divided into four bands. The names of the bands are the Grand

-Pawnee, the Loop, the Tappas, and the Republican. When the nation

-settled in this region the Grand Pawnees and the Tappas located on the

-west bank of Plumb creek and the Loops located on this spot and were

-afterwards joined by the Republicans. When the Sioux made war on the

-Indians at the first settlement and destroyed their village, the Grand

-Chief saw that his party were unable to cope with their hostile foes

-alone, and it was concluded that the four bands should locate together

-on this spot, but notwithstanding this, the Sioux succeeded in burning

-this village last summer during the absence of the Pawnees when on

-their hunt. They rebuilt most of it again, but last fall the Sioux

-made another attack and burned the whole village except one dwelling

-or lodge, which is not harmed. There are three or four others but

-partially destroyed, the rest are entirely demolished and levelled with

-the ground. The Pawnees then moved to the place where we passed them a

-few days ago, and are dwelling in their lodges made of hides, etc. The

-name of the Grand Chief is Shefmolan, who is also the superior chief

-of the Pawnee band. All documents or treaties made by the nation are

-signed by this chief and the nation is then bound by them. The head

-chief of the Loup band is named Siscatup, the other chiefs, father Case

-did not recollect their names. From him I obtained this information.

-There is a part of the Loup band on the main Platte, some distance from

-here, who have never yielded to the government treaties, but stand out

-from the rest of the nation and spend their time mostly in plundering

-other tribes as well as travelers. They frequently go as far as the

-Cherokee nation to rob and plunder. All the Pawnee nation are noted for

-their love of plundering travelers of their horses and mules, but not

-often anything else.

-

-On the east and west of the village is a beautiful level bench of

-prairie extending many miles, and to the ridge of bluffs which run

-east and west touching within a mile of the village. On the top of the

-bluffs can be seen a number of Indian graves. To the northwest about

-a mile distant, and at the foot of the bluffs is an extensive corn

-field, the stalks still standing. On the south is a beautiful view of

-the nice level prairie extending to the main branch of the Platte, the

-timber on the banks can be faintly, but plainly seen. The Loup Fork

-is probably about 400 yards wide at this place and very shoal, except

-a narrow channel near the shore on this side which is probably three

-feet deep. The bottom is mostly quicksand and not safe fording. About

-half the surface from bank to bank is sand bars which appear above the

-surface of the water mostly on the south side. There are several small

-islands and a little timber to the right or west. The village occupies

-a space of about 40 acres of land, and is mostly enclosed by a ditch

-about five feet wide, and a bank inside the ditch about four feet high,

-running from the bank of the river around the village till it again

-strikes the bank, and when perfect, has formed a good fortification. A

-number of lodges are built outside the ditch on the east and on account

-of want of room inside when the bands from the other village joined

-them. The village is composed of about 200 houses or lodges varying

-in size but all similarly constructed, as appears from the remnants

-of some left standing. While I take this sketch, I sit in the one

-left unharmed, which it is said was owned by the chief Siscatup, and

-as the lodges are all constructed in the same manner, only differing

-in size, I will endeavor to describe the way in which this is built.

-In the first place, the earth is dug out a little, slanting to the

-depth of about 18 inches in the form of a perfect circle about 44 feet

-in diameter. This forms the floor of the dwelling. Then there are 17

-crotch posts let into the floor in a direction slanting outward so that

-the top of the crotch is about perpendicular with the outside of the

-circle, the foot being set about 18 or 20 inches from the base of the

-circle. These posts are arranged at about equal distances from each

-other around the circle. In the crotches, poles are laid across from

-crotch to crotch, and are sufficiently high for the tallest man to

-stand upright under them. At the distance of 18 or 20 inches from the

-outside of the circle are many smaller poles let into the surface of

-the ground, on an average of about a foot apart and leaning inward so

-that the top of the poles rest on the cross pieces which are supported

-by the crotches. The space between the foot of these poles and the edge

-of the circle forms a bench for seats entirely around the house, and

-there is room sufficient for more than a hundred men to seat themselves

-on it very comfortably. On the outside of these last mentioned poles

-are laid a number of still smaller poles horizontally from bottom to

-top from about 9 inches to a foot apart, these are lashed fast to

-the upright poles by strings made of bark. On the outside of these

-is laid a thick layer of long prairie grass and occasionally lashed

-through to the upright poles also. The whole is then covered with

-earth about two feet in thickness at the bottom and gradually thinner

-towards the top. This forms an enclosure when completed around the

-whole area about seven feet high, a place being left sufficiently large

-for the door. The next process is to place erect ten upright poles or

-crotches, very stout, being about a foot in diameter about seven feet

-nearer the center of the circle than the first crotches. These are set

-perpendicular, deep in the ground and also arranged at about equal

-distances from each other, and form a strong foundation which is the

-design and use to which they are appropriated. On the top of these

-pillars are also horizontal poles laid strong and firm, the top of the

-pillars being about eleven or twelve feet above the floor. Long small

-poles are then laid from the outside horizontal poles over the inner

-ones and sufficiently long to meet at the top within about two feet

-of each other, forming a hole for the smoke from the fire to ascend

-through. These long poles are laid pretty close together all around

-the building, and across them smaller ones are lashed with bark as in

-the first instance, only they are much closer together. The operation

-of lashing on a layer of long grass and finally covering the whole

-with earth, completes the roof of the building. The door or entrance

-is a long porch formed by placing in the earth four upright posts or

-crotches far enough apart to extend outwards from the circle, about 18

-or 20 feet. There are four upright crotches on each side the porch and

-in the crotches, poles are laid horizontally as in the other parts of

-the building. The process of lashing sticks across, then a thick coat

-of long grass and lastly a stout coat of earth, is the same as the

-other parts of the building. The roof of the porch is flat and is about

-seven feet high and six feet wide. The porch is dug down about half

-as deep as the main building, making a short step at the mouth of the

-porch and another one at the entrance into the house. The fire has been

-made in the center of the house directly under the hole in the roof.

-

-At the farther side of the building, exactly opposite the porch, is

-a projection of sod left about a foot from the outside of the circle

-which is said to have been the seat of the chief, and over which hung

-his medicine bag and other implements.

-

-The crotches are arranged so that there is a free passage to the center

-of the hall from the porch one standing on each side at the entrance

-about six feet apart and the others appear to be arranged from them.

-The smaller houses have not so many pillars as this one. Some have

-eight in the center and sixteen outside the circle. Others have four

-in the center and ten outside. The entrances are also smaller in

-proportion, but all are constructed on the same principle. It looks a

-little singular to note that nearly all the entrances to these lodges

-front to the southeast, except in one or two instances where they front

-in other directions for lack of room. It is probable that this is done

-to avoid the effects of the severe cold northwest winds so prevalent in

-winter.

-

-Adjacent to each lodge is a stable or pen, which has been designed for

-keeping horses in. These are mostly left unharmed. They are constructed

-by placing poles upright in the ground from two to three inches in

-diameter as close together as possible and about ten feet high. About

-five or six feet above the ground cross poles are laid horizontally,

-and each of the upright poles are firmly lashed to the cross poles by

-strips of bark, so as to make them firm and secure them from being

-moved out of their place. The stables are mostly built square, with

-a door left on one side sufficiently large to admit a horse. There

-are some circular stables but not so many as the square ones. The

-horses appear to have been penned in by placing loose poles across the

-doorway, for there is no other sign of a door visible.

-

-Around each lodge there are also several cachets where corn and other

-necessities are deposited. The cachets are large holes dug in the

-ground, or rather under the ground, the entrance being only just large

-enough to admit a common sized man. They are made pretty much after the

-shape of a large demijon. The cachets are generally about six feet high

-inside and about fifteen feet in diameter; there is a gradual slope

-from the mouth to the extreme corner and a little bowing, which forms

-the roof. The surface of the earth above, at the mouth, is about two

-and a half or three feet deep. Some of these are said to be capable of

-holding a hundred bushels of corn, and when filled there is a thick

-coat of grass laid on the top and the mouth then filled up nicely with

-earth, and when finished a stranger would not have the least suspicion

-that there was a storehouse full of corn under his feet.

-

-I finished taking the foregoing sketch soon after noon, and then had

-intended to go on the bluffs and examine the Indian graves, but it

-being very warm, and perceiving the teams crossing the river very

-rapidly, I returned, and found most of the teams over. They commenced

-crossing about eight o'clock, some unloaded their goods on the bank

-which were carried in the boat to the sand bar, the teams going down to

-the ferry to cross. After a few wagons had gone over, it was perceived

-that they went over with less difficulty, and by doubling teams they

-soon took over the loaded wagons without much difficulty. I prepared

-to wade over the river, inasmuch as the wagon I am with was gone over,

-and in fact, all Heber's wagons were over except one, but Jackson

-Redding brought me Porter Rockwell's horse to ride over, and I mounted

-and proceeded. I found the current strong indeed, and about as much as

-a horse could do to ford it without a load. I soon got over safe and

-wet only my feet. At 3:00 p.m. the last wagon was over on the solid

-sand bar, and about four o'clock all the wagons and teams were safely

-landed on the bank on the south side of the Loop Fork without any loss

-or accident, which made the brethren feel thankful indeed. A little

-before four, the wagons started on to find a better place to camp and

-feed for our teams, where we can stay comfortable until Monday and give

-the teams a chance to rest, for they as well as the men are very tired

-by wading against the strong current on the quick sand. The bottom

-land on this side is more sandy than on the other side, but the grass

-appears higher but not so thick on the ground. The bluffs on the other

-side look beautiful from here, and the Indian graves show very plain.

-We went on about three miles and camped beside a small lake near the

-river. I traveled this on foot. Soon as we arrived Porter Rockwell

-discovered that there were many sun fish in the lake. I took a couple

-of hooks and lines, handed some to him, and went to fishing myself

-with the others and we had some fine sport. I caught a nice mess which

-Brother Egan cooked for supper, and although they were small they made

-a good dish. Many of the brethren caught a good mess each. Brother

-Higbee came down with the seine and made two hauls but caught none on

-account of the grass in the bottom of the lake. We have good reasons

-to suspect that we are watched by the Indians as their footsteps have

-been seen on the bluffs south, apparently very fresh, but the guard are

-faithful and we have no fear. The cannon was prepared again so as to be

-ready in case there should be an attack. Evening I walked over to Orson

-Pratt's wagon, and through his telescope saw Jupiter's four moons very

-distinctly never having seen them before. I went over to my wagon and

-looked through my glass and could see them with it, but not so distinct

-as with Orson's. The evening was very fine and pleasant. About ten

-o'clock retired to rest in good health and spirits, thankful for the

-mercies of the day that is past.

-

-Sunday, April 25

-

-Arose soon after five, shaved and changed some of my clothing. The

-morning very pleasant, wind west. Our course for the last seven miles

-has been about southwest. We are about 14 miles from the main branch

-of the Platte river and it is said that if we travel on this fork one

-hundred miles farther, we shall then be not over thirty miles from the

-main branch. This morning saw four antelope on the other bank of the

-river about a mile and a half northwest. Afternoon Elijah Newman was

-baptized by Tarlton Lewis in the lake for the benefit of his health.

-Brother Newman has been afflicted with the black scurvy in his legs and

-has not been able to walk without sticks, but after being baptized and

-hands laid on him he returned to his wagon without any kind of help

-seemingly much better. Soon after 5:00 p.m. a meeting was called at the

-wagon of President Young, and remarks made by several, and instructions

-by President Young chiefly in reference to the guard and the folly

-of conforming to gentile military customs on an expedition of this

-nature. After dark the twelve and some others met together opposite

-the President's wagon to select men to go a hunting buffalo, etc., as

-we proceed on the journey. It was ascertained that there are eight

-horses in the company which are not attached to teams. Then eight men

-were selected to ride on horseback, viz., Thomas Woolsey, Thomas Brown,

-John Brown, O. P. Rockwell, John S. Higbee, Joseph Mathews. Then

-there were selected eleven men to hunt also on foot, viz., John Pack,

-Phineas H. Young, Tarlton Lewis, Joseph Hancock, Edmund Ellsworth,

-Roswell Stevens, Edson Whipple, Barnabas L. Adams, Benjamin F. Stewart,

-Jackson Redding and Eric Glines. It was also voted that the twelve have

-the privilege of hunting when they have a mind to. After some remarks

-and cautions in regard to chasing the wild buffalo, the company was

-dismissed, and I retired to rest soon after nine o'clock, the evening

-being very fine and pleasant.

-

-Monday, April 26

-

-This morning about 3:30 an alarm was sounded. I immediately got out of

-the wagon and learned that three of the guard who were stationed to the

-northeast of the camp had discovered some Indians crawling up towards

-the wagons. They first received alarm from the motions of one of our

-horses, and noticing this they went towards the spot and listening,

-heard something rustle in the grass; they first suspected they were

-wolves and fired at them. Only one gun went off and six Indians sprang

-up and ran from within a few rods of where they stood, another gun was

-then fired at them and the camp alarmed. A strong guard was placed all

-around, and a charge of cannister put in the cannon. The day was just

-breaking when this took place and the moon had just gone down. The

-air being extremely cold and fires put out, I retired into the wagon

-till morning and arose again at half past five. After daylight, the

-footsteps of the Indians could be plainly seen where they had come down

-under the bank and sometimes stepped into the water. No doubt their

-object was to steal horses, and they had a fair privilege if the guard

-had been found asleep, for the camp was only formed in a half circle

-and some horses were tied outside. However, the prompt reception they

-met with will have a tendency to show them that we keep a good watch

-and may deter them from making another attempt. Orders were given for

-the tens to assemble for prayers this morning, instead of two in each

-wagon, which was done. President Young told me this morning that as

-soon as my health will permit, he wants me to assist Brother Bullock in

-keeping minutes, etc., as Brother Bullock is hard run, having to take

-care of a team and attend to other chores.

-

-The camp started out about 8:00 a.m. I started at 7:30 on foot and

-traveled four miles, then waited for the wagons. There is no road here,

-consequently, President Young, Kimball, G. A. Smith, A. Lyman and

-others went ahead on horseback to point out the road. The horse teams

-traveled first to break the strong grass so that it will not hurt the

-oxen's feet. The hunters started out in different directions keeping

-only a few miles from the wagons. We traveled about seven miles and

-then stopped at 11:30 beside a few little holes of water to rest and

-feed teams, etc. From this place which is somewhat elevated, can be

-seen the remains of an old village or Indian fort, over the river about

-northwest from here. The country looks beautiful, somewhat rolling and

-bounded by uneven bluffs. The land looks poor and sandy. The sun is

-very hot and not much wind. I find it has a great tendency to make sore

-lips, parched up and feverish. At 1:45 all the wagons were on the way

-again. We traveled about seven miles. We crossed two slough or soft

-places though not very bad. They are the first since we left Winter

-Quarters. The roads are more uneven than on the other side the river.

-We had to make a new road all day. At 6:15 the encampment was formed on

-the east banks of a small creek with a very gravelly bottom. The wagons

-are formed in a deep hollow and so low that they cannot be seen at a

-quarter of a mile distance. There is no fresh grass here, neither has

-the old grass been burnt off. We have crossed a number of trails today

-which some say are buffalo trails. They all run towards the river, and

-in some places there are 8 or 9, others, not more than two, and so on,

-together running about a half a yard apart. The hunters have seen no

-buffalo. Woolsey killed a goose. There is no timber here, only a few

-small willows. We are about a half a mile from the river, and there

-doesn't seem to be much timber on the river. Our course today has been

-about southwest. About a mile back from this place situated on a high

-bench of land on the banks of the river is the remains of an Indian

-village, the houses or lodges being all down and no appearance of

-timber left. The entrances to these lodges all face to the southeast,

-the same as those back at the other village. There has evidently been a

-garden around the village as the land has been broken and bears marks

-of cultivation. This morning Brother Benson discovered that one of the

-iron axles of his wagon was broken, and he moved the load so that there

-was no weight on the part which was broken, and traveled with it all

-day. This evening the wagon was unloaded, the axle taken off, Brother

-Tanner's forge set up, and the axle welded and fixed ready to put to

-the wagon again. This was done in the short space of one hour after the

-encampment was formed. The welding was performed by Brother Burr Fost.

-About eight o'clock Joseph Mathews came into camp from seeking his

-horses and stated that an Indian had rode a horse off a little before

-and he supposed it was Brother Little's horse, which was missing. Dr.

-Richards' mare was also missing. Brother Mathews stated that he went

-out to seek for his black man who was out watching his teams, and as

-he arrived he saw Brother Little's horse as he supposed going towards

-the river. He ran towards it to turn it back to camp, but as soon as he

-commenced running the horse sprang to a gallop, which made him suppose

-there was an Indian on him although he could not see the Indian. As

-soon as he gave the alarm five or six of the brethren mounted their

-horses, and pursued on the course pointed out to the river, but could

-neither see nor hear a horse or Indian. When they returned, President

-Young and Kimball and a number of others went out on horseback and

-searched till near eleven o'clock, but likewise proved unsuccessful.

-The brethren have been repeatedly warned not to let their horses go far

-from their wagons, but every time we stop they can be seen around for

-more than two miles. These are two good horses and the owners feel bad

-enough, but it will be a warning to others to be more careful.

-

-Tuesday, April 27

-

-Arose soon after five. The morning fine and pleasant. During the night

-the guard fired twice but they supposed they were wolves they fired

-at. I went back to the old Indian village before breakfast, and also

-with O. P. Rockwell, to see if any tracks of the lost horses could

-be found. He followed one track some way into a bunch of willows, but

-having no arms we returned. At 7:45 the wagons commenced moving and

-traveled till 2:15 being about twelve miles nearly a south course, the

-design being to go to the main branch of the Platte. President Young,

-Kimball and others went forward again to point out the road. O. P.

-Rockwell and some others started back to hunt the horses about the time

-we started. The land today has been very rolling and uneven. It is also

-very sandy and dry. After traveling about four miles through dead grass

-we found a large space where the grass had been burned off. Here it is

-quite green, and there are quantities of buffalo dung, which proves

-that we are not far distant from some of them. The hunters have been

-out again but have not discovered any. There are a great many lizards

-on these sand ridges, but they are of a small size. President Young and

-Kimball discovered a dog town a piece back, and many little prairie

-dogs. In one hole was a very large rattlesnake, and around the holes

-many small owls which seem to correspond with what travelers have said

-previously, that the prairie dog, rattlesnakes, and owls all live in

-the same hole together. The sun is very hot but there is a nice west

-wind although it is dry and parches our lips. When we stopped at noon

-the brethren dug several holes and obtained a little water, as there is

-none here above the surface. They could not obtain any for the cattle

-and horses. At 3:15 the teams commenced to move again. Just as they

-started, John Brown, Roswell Stevens and Brother Woodruff all shot

-at an antelope. They all hit him and killed him. Having skinned it,

-they put it into one of the wagons. The afternoon was very hot and the

-roads very dusty. After traveling about two miles some of the ox teams

-gave out and had to stop and feed. The rest went on till they found

-a small branch of water and the grass being very good we stopped for

-the night at half past five, having traveled about four miles, course

-about south. President Young and several others went back with mules

-and horses to assist the teams up which are behind. Luke Johnson shot

-a very large rattlesnake and brought it to camp for the oil. Roswell

-Stevens killed a hare, the nearest like the English hare of any I have

-seen in this country. Soon after we arrived here it began to lightning

-and thunder and we had a light shower with a very strong wind. There is

-an appearance of more rain which is very much needed indeed. At 6:30

-O. P. Rockwell, Joseph Mathews, John Eldridge and Thomas Brown

-returned from hunting the two lost horses. They reported that they

-went back to within about two miles of where we encamped on Sunday and

-looking off towards the river they saw something move in the grass at

-the foot of a high mole. They proceeded towards it thinking it was a

-wolf, when within about twelve or fourteen rods Porter stopped to shoot

-at the supposed wolf. The moment he elevated his rifle, fifteen Indians

-sprang to their feet, all naked except the breech cloth, and armed

-with rifles and bows and arrows. Each man having a rifle slung on his

-back, and his bow strung tight in his hand and about twenty arrows.

-The Indians advanced towards them but the brethren motioned and told

-them to stop and held their rifles and pistols ready to meet them. When

-the Indians saw this they began to holler "bacco! bacco!" The brethren

-told them they had not tobacco. One of the Indians came close beside

-J. Mathew's horse to shake hands with Mathews but kept his eye on the

-horse's bridle. When nearly within reach of the bridle, Brown cocked

-his pistol and pointed at the Indian shouting if he did not leave he

-would kill him. At which, the Indian seeing the pistol ready to fire,

-retreated. The Indians made signs to get the brethren lower down the

-river, but the brethren turned their horses to come to camp, thinking

-it unsafe to go near to the timber where they expected more Indians

-lay in ambush. When the brethren turned to come back the Indians fired

-six shots at them with their rifles and the brethren immediately faced

-about at which the Indians fled towards the timber below. The brethren

-did not shoot at the Indians, even when the Indians shot at them. They

-saw the tracks of the horses which are missing and returned satisfied

-that Pawnees have got them, and no doubt intended to get the horses on

-which the brethren rode, but they met with too stern a reception to

-risk an attempt. Some of these same Indians were amongst those who came

-into camp when we stopped for dinner near their village, and proves

-that they eyed the horses pretty close, and also proves that they have

-followed us close ever since. The brethren ran great risks indeed, but

-got back safe to camp without harm.

-

-About the same time the brethren returned, a gun accidentally went

-off and broke the nigh fore leg of Brother Mathew's horse. Those who

-saw the accident state that when the rain came on, some of the men

-put their guns in John Brown's wagon, loaded and with the caps on.

-Brother Brown threw his coat on the guns, and soon after went to get

-his coat and plucking it up, some part of the coat caught the cock

-of the gun and raised it so that when the coat slipped off, the gun

-went off, and the ball struck the horse's leg on the back side about

-half way between the knee and upper joint. The bone was broke entirely

-off. There were several men and horses close by the wagon at the time.

-The wagon was set on fire, but soon put out with little damage. This

-makes four of the best horses lost within the last four days, but the

-last circumstance is by far the most painful, and breaks up Brother

-Markham's team. Brother Brown made Heber a present of a little antelope

-meat. About dark the wind moved to the north and blew strong a little

-while and we had a little more rain.

-

-Wednesday, April 28

-

-Morning fine and pleasant, no Indians. The wind blew strong from

-the northeast which makes it much cooler. There are many wolves and

-antelope around here, but no buffalo have been seen as yet. Orders were

-given this morning for no man to leave the wagons except the hunters.

-The brethren had to make a road down to the small creek near which

-we camped. This occupied till about nine o'clock, when the wagons

-commenced crossing; the last wagon crossed at ten o'clock and then the

-camp proceeded on, President Young, Kimball, and several others going

-before to point out the road while the wagons were crossing the creek.

-Brother Luke Johnson shot the horse dead which had his leg broke last

-night. The horse belonged to Brother Barney, but was in Markham's team

-and was a good one, but they concluded it was better to shoot her than

-leave her alone to the mercy of the Indians. Our course for the first

-seven miles was a little east of south over a very level prairie and

-green with grass. The largest wild onions grow here I have ever seen.

-After traveling about seven miles we turned southwest, being within

-a mile of the main Platte and opposite to Grand Island. We traveled

-till 2:30 and then stopped to feed, having come about eleven miles

-today. The roads are extremely dusty and the strong wind blows it into

-the wagons and everything is covered. We are now near to timber and a

-good chance for grass for the cattle. At 4:00 p.m. we moved again and

-traveled till six, having traveled about four miles, and during the

-day, about fifteen miles. We have camped about a quarter of a mile from

-the timber and there is plenty of grass to fill the stock tonight. The

-water is also clear and cool and good tasting. The evening is cloudy

-and very cool, which affects my head some. Suppered on some antelope

-and went to bed early.

-

-Thursday, April 29

-

-The wagons started at five o'clock this morning before breakfast, to

-find more grass as this is all eaten off. We traveled till 6:30 being

-about three miles, and then turned out the teams to feed. The morning

-very cool. There seems to be very little rain in this country and no

-dew. Breakfasted on goose and mouldy bread. At twenty minutes after

-eight, the teams started again and after traveling about two miles

-came to a very pretty stream of good water, (Wood River) about ten

-feet wide on an average, but at the fording place about a rod wide. We

-were detained some here, but all got over safely. We then traveled on

-a table or prairie gently ascending for four or five miles but very

-even and good traveling. At 1:00 p.m. we stopped beside a small lake to

-rest and feed teams, having traveled about ten miles today. The wind

-south and strong. One of Orson Pratt's horses is very sick, supposed

-to be the bots. He has lain down several times in the harness within

-the last three hours. I am not astonished, as the wagons and everything

-else is shrinking up, for the wind is perfectly dry and parching;

-there is no moisture in it. Even my writing desk is splitting with the

-drought. At 2:30 p.m. we started again and traveled till about 6:30

-over tolerable level prairie, distance about eight miles, and nearly a

-southwest course. The wind was strong from southwest till sundown and

-then turned to northeast. The clouds of dust were almost sufficient to

-suffocate everyone. I rode Heber's horse this afternoon and went before

-the wagons. Saw many antelope, and the brethren had a good chance to

-kill one, but they missed it, although three of them shot at it. We

-camped at night close to Grand Island where there is an abundance of

-rushes for cattle. There is also a white substance that seems to ooze

-out of the ground around here, and tastes like salt, but not so strong

-as common salt. Brother Orson Pratt's horse is better and the day has

-passed without accident.

-

-Friday, April 30

-

-Arose at half past five. Morning cool and pleasant. The teams have

-filled themselves with rushes. Started at 7:40 and soon after the camp

-started, I started ahead on foot and have traveled about five miles.

-The prairie level and green with grass. We travel on the first bench

-about three quarters of a mile north of the timber on Grand Island.

-There are many wild geese on the prairie, also buffalo dung, but

-none very recent. There are immense patches of blue grass which from

-appearances, the buffalo are fond of. There are also numerous patches

-of buffalo grass which is very short, thick on the ground, and curly

-like the hair on a buffalo's hide, and much resembling it, except in

-color. About a mile from where we camped last night, we passed a place

-where the Indians have camped no doubt during their hunt. They must

-have been very numerous for their camp has covered a number of acres of

-ground. President Young, Kimball and Lyman are gone ahead on horseback

-to look out the road. We have thus far followed the Indian trail, but

-it is now so grown over and so old it is scarce discernible. The wind

-blows strong from the north and the dust is very bad. The atmosphere is

-dull and cloudy. Our course today has been about west. At a quarter to

-twelve we stopped to feed beside a small creek of clear, good, water,

-having traveled about eight miles. The grass along this creek is long

-and plentiful. We are about a half a mile from Grand Island.

-

-Having the privilege of copying from Brother Bullock's journal, I will

-now record the names of the standing guard as organized April 16th,

-also the men selected by Brother Tanner to form the gun division as

-ordered Saturday, April 17th.

-

-Tarlton Lewis, Stephen H. Goddard, Seeley Owens, Thomas Woolsey, John

-G. Luce, Horace Thorton, Charles D. Barnam, Sylvester H. Earl, George

-Scholes, Rufus Allen, William Empey, John Holman, George R. Grant,

-William P. Vance, James Craig, Datus Ensign, William Dykes, John Dixon,

-Samuel H. Marble, Artemus Johnson, Norton Jacobs, Addison Everett,

-William Wordsworth, John W. Norton, Francis M. Pomroy, Lyman Curtis,

-Horace M. Frink, Erastus Snow, Hans C. Hanson, William C. A.

-Smoot, Barnabas L. Adams, Rodney Badger, Charles Burk, Alexander

-P. Chesley, Appleton M. Harmon, David Powell, Joseph Mathews, John

-Wheeler, Gillrid Summe, Mathew Ivory, Edson Whipple, Conrad Klineman,

-Joseph Rooker, Nathaniel Fairbanks, Ozro Eastman, Andrew S. Gibbons,

-William A. King, Thomas Tanner, Hosea Cushing, and John H. Tippets.

-

-The names of the gun detachment are as follows:

-

-Thomas Tanner, Captain; Stephen H. Goddard, Seeley Owens, Thomas

-Woolsey, John G. Luce, Horace Thornton, Charles D. Barnam, Sylvester H.

-Earl, George Scholes and Rufus Allen.

-

-At twenty minutes after ten o'clock started again, the wind blowing

-from the north tremendously strong, and clouds of dust arose from under

-the wagon wheels. It has turned very cold and gloomy. We traveled

-again over a level prairie some distance from the river and turned off

-to camp under the bench soon after 5:00 p.m. having traveled about

-eight miles, our course a little southwest. The wagons were formed in

-an imperfect circle in such a manner as to have all the wagon mouths

-from the wind, which took near an hour to form the encampment. We are

-about a mile from water and a mile and a half from timber, with very

-little grass for our teams. It is now so cold that every man wants his

-overcoat on and a buffalo robe over it. We have had no accident and the

-brethren feel well, some are wrestling to keep themselves warm. Some

-have had the good luck to bring a little wood with them but it seems

-as if many will have a cold supper. And some perhaps little or nothing

-as they have no bread cooked. Eight p.m., the camp have found a good

-substitute for wood in the dried buffalo dung which lies on the ground

-here in great plenty, and makes a good fire when properly managed.

-Brother Kimball invented a new way of building a fire to cook on and

-which is well adapted to the use of this kind of fuel. He dug a hole

-in the ground about 8 inches deep, 15 inches long and 8 inches wide.

-Then at each end of this hole he dug another about the same dimensions

-as the first leaving about 3 inches of earth standing between the

-middle and two end holes. At the end of these partitions he made a

-hole through about 3 inches in diameter to serve as a draught. In the

-bottom of the middle hole the fire and fuel was placed, and across the

-top two wagon hammers to set the pots and pans on, so that the fire

-could have free circulation underneath. By this method much cooking

-was done with very little fuel. To save the trouble of carrying water

-so far a well was dug in a short time about 4 feet deep and good water

-obtained. After supper I went and gathered some dried buffalo dung

-(politely called buffalo chips) to cook with in the morning. Brother

-Hanson played some on his violin and some of the brethren danced to

-warm themselves. I went to bed early to get warm but having only one

-quilt for covering, I suffered much with cold. Brother Kimball rode

-ahead again on horseback and suffered some from cold.

-

-

-

-May 1847

-

-Saturday, May 1

-

-The morning very cold indeed. Inasmuch as there is little grass for the

-cattle, the camp started out at 5:40 and traveled till a quarter after

-eight, six miles before breakfast. Soon after we started this morning

-three buffalo were seen grazing on the bluff about six miles distance.

-I could see them very plain with my glass. O. P. Rockwell, Thomas

-Brown and Luke Johnson started on horseback to try to kill some. Soon

-after they went, another herd of buffalo were seen to the northwest at

-the foot of the bluffs about eight miles off. I counted with my glass,

-72, and Orson Pratt counted 74. Three of the brethren went on their

-horses after the latter herd. I watched the movement with the glass

-and saw that sometime before the brethren got to them, the buffalo

-fled and were soon after out of sight. We stopped for breakfast close

-to Grand Island and at 10:15 proceeded again. After traveling four

-miles we arrived at a small lake on our right at twelve o'clock which

-evidently connects with the river in high water. A little previous to

-this time the hunters returned and reported that Luke Johnson shot at

-one and dropped him on his knees, but he got up again and ran after the

-herd. They did not get any, but saw more farther west and went to give

-chase to the latter herd. When they got near them, they turned down

-under the bluffs and joined the herd chased by the last hunting party.

-Luke lost his cap and could not find it again. Brother Higbee said he

-could have shot one, but Woolsey told him to hold on and pick out a

-good one. They being pretty near, selected a cow and designed both to

-shoot at her, but while they were making their plans the herd started

-and they missed their chance. About the time the hunters returned,

-another still larger herd was discovered still farther west, also at

-the foot of the bluffs. The President stopped near the above mentioned

-lake and selected eleven men to go and give chase to the last seen

-herd and he gave them their instructions. Although they were at least

-eight miles from us, I distinctly counted 101 with my glass and amongst

-them many calves. This being the first day buffalo has been seen on

-our journey and in fact the first ever seen by any except about five

-or six of the brethren, it excited considerable interest and pleasure

-in the breasts of the brethren, and as may be guessed, the teams moved

-slowly and frequently stopped to watch their movement. When the hunters

-were within a mile or two from the herd, two of the dogs gave chase

-to an antelope, which made directly towards the buffalo. One of the

-dogs chased it till it went into the midst of the herd and when the

-buffalo saw the dog, they commenced to canter into a closer huddle.

-The dog, however, evidently frightened with their savage appearance,

-stopped and retraced his steps. About this time Elder Kimball seemed to

-get inspired with the idea of chasing the buffalo and he immediately

-called for Egan's fifteen shooter and started with it on full gallop.

-After the dog returned the buffalo did not move much from the place

-and the hunters moved gently along till they got pretty near them, at

-which time Heber joined, just as the herd discovered them and commenced

-galloping off. The brethren's feelings who were left with the wagons

-were now strung up to the highest pitch, a feeling of exciting interest

-appeared to prevail throughout the camp, they having heard and read

-so much of the mad ferocity of the buffalo when hotly pursued, and

-knowing that all the hunters were inexperienced in regard to hunting

-the wild buffalo. While they felt for the safety of the hunters, they

-still desired to see as much of the chase as the distance would allow,

-and were wishful that the chase might be successful as a number have

-no meat and a piece of fresh meat would taste good to all men and save

-our bread stuff, and the desire to taste the much famed buffalo meat

-created a longing desire to see some of the herd fall. Soon as the herd

-commenced galloping off, the hunters followed in pursuit at full gallop

-and soon closed in with them. At this time I got my glass and rested

-it on Brother Aaron Farr's shoulder, determined to see as much of the

-chase as possible. I soon discovered O. P. Rockwell ride into

-the midst of the herd which then appeared to number over 200, others

-having come in sight when the herd commenced to run. Porter was soon

-enveloped in the cloud of dust caused by the heavy tramp of the buffalo

-on the dry sandy ground, but in a very short time the herd began to

-separate and scatter in every direction, a small party coming down

-the bluff again and some running west under the bluffs, others going

-over. The hunters closed in on the first party and commenced their

-fire, especially at one cow which they finally succeeded in separating

-from all the rest, and determined to keep to her until they killed

-her, except Porter, who as soon as he had wounded her, left her with

-the hunters and pursued some of the rest. The cow was now in close

-quarters and after she had been shot through two or three times, Elder

-Kimball rode close to her with his fifteen shooter and fired over his

-horse's head, she dropped helpless and was soon dispatched. At the

-report of the gun which was very heavy loaded, Elder Kimball's horse

-sprang and flew down the bluff like lightning and he having let go the

-lines to shoot, her sudden motion overbalanced him and his situation

-was precarious to the extreme. The other hunters saw his situation and

-trembled for his safety but could render him no assistance. However,

-being a good horseman, he maintained his position in the saddle and

-soon succeeded in gaining the lines and by a vigorous effort succeeded

-after some time in reining in his horse and returned to the rest

-unharmed and without accident. All this movement passed about as quick

-as thought, and as soon as they saw the cow dead and all right they

-again followed in pursuit of the remaining buffalo. About this time

-three of the herd separated from the rest and came in a direction

-towards the camp on a gallop. President Young seeing this, ordered a

-halt, and the wagons to get close together lest the buffalo should,

-in their fury and excitement, venture to go between the wagons and do

-much mischief. However, they were discovered by some of the hunters

-nearer the camp and some foot men who gave chase to them changed their

-course when within about a mile from the camp. At this time I had a

-very good view of their shape, color and appearance when running which

-I shall endeavor to describe hereafter. Elder Kimball arrived in time

-to aid in the chase of these three which lasted some time. The hunters

-made choice of a large and very furious bull, and worked with him

-some time, shooting him through several times but all this did not

-seem to impede his progress. O. P. Rockwell said he had heard it

-said that a buffalo could not be hurt with a ball shot at his head.

-Having a fair chance with this one, he determined to satisfy himself,

-and (previous to his being wounded) gaining a little in advance came

-right in front within about a rod of him and discharged his rifle

-pistol which struck the center of his head, but with no other effect

-than to make it smoke a little, some dust fly and the raving animal

-shake savagely. The brethren, John S. Higbee and John Pack, soon after

-succeeded in dropping him and laid him dead at their feet, John Pack

-being the one that dropped him. During all this, other scenes were

-passing of equal interest. One of the calves was discovered within a

-few rods of the wagons, a shot fired at it and it was soon caught by

-the dogs, killed and put into a feed box. Porter chased another calf

-to within a mile of the camp previous to his chasing the bull. Some

-of the footmen surrounded and dispatched it, and soon after brought

-and put it in one of the wagons. Other brethren were still away at the

-bluffs, but we had no certainty of their success until Elder Kimball,

-John Pack, and several others came up to the camp after dispatching

-the bull and reported two other cows killed and three calves. This

-was a little before 5:00 p.m. When it was ascertained for a certainty

-that one was killed, the revenue cutter was unloaded and sent to fetch

-it to camp. It was reported that two other cows and three calves were

-killed. When Elder Kimball and others came up to the camp, President

-Young requested some of the brethren to unload their wagons and go and

-fetch the others reported to be killed, while the wagons would strike

-towards the river and camp for the night. The chase lasted from soon

-after 1:00 until 4:00 p.m. Soon four wagons were unloaded, the brethren

-having their loads on the ground in care of a guard, and were ready

-to start out. Having a great desire to see a buffalo in his natural

-state, my feet being very sore, and the distance to the bluffs being

-over three miles, I got into Brother Aaron Farr's wagon, he being one

-who unloaded to fetch in the meat, and we started for the one shot down

-by Elder Kimball, he and O. P. Rockwell following on horseback.

-On our route, we met Luke Johnson and two other hunters returning.

-Luke had a calf tied on his horse, himself on foot. When we arrived at

-the cow, we found that three of the brethren had come on foot and had

-already got the hide off, except the head. She was soon cut in two, put

-in the wagon with the rest of the meat, hide and head, and we started

-for the next cow which was about three quarters of a mile distant. This

-cow would probably weigh on foot, about 700 pounds. She was not very

-fat, but the meat looked nice and clean. When we arrived at the next

-cow, we found several of the brethren at work with her, they had got

-her hide off and soon had her in the wagon. We then proceeded to camp

-and got in soon after sundown. The meat was unloaded in the semi-circle

-opposite the President's wagon and placed on the hide which was spread

-on the ground for the purpose of keeping it clean. The brethren's

-faces beamed with joy to see the meat begin to come into camp, and

-with some astonishment to view the size and ferocious appearance of

-the head, which still had the hide on. Soon after the other wagons

-came in and each deposited its load in the same place. Joseph Mathews

-came in about the same time and reported that he had killed another

-calf after chasing it three miles, making the total number killed in

-the first day's buffalo hunt by the Camp of the Latter-day Saints,

-already reported as follows: one bull, three cows and six calves, a

-circumstance far exceeding our expectations and best hopes, and all

-without the slightest accident or loss to man or property, except Luke

-Johnson's cap and a ramrod to a rifle. There is, however, one shade

-of suspense caused by the intelligence that Joseph Hancock has not

-returned to camp. He started out on foot when the three buffalo were

-first discovered this morning and has not been seen or heard of for

-sometime. Considerable fear is entertained for his safety from the fact

-that he is lame, and it is evident, or at least considered so, that

-there are Indians near because a large smoke as of prairie burning has

-been seen all the afternoon within some six or eight miles to the west

-and must have been set on fire by somebody and the probability is, it

-is Indians, although none has been seen for several days. The meat was

-cut up into quarters and distributed one quarter to each company of

-ten, leaving some to be distributed in the morning, and in a short time

-every fire was loaded with it, and the camp had a good feast on the

-fruits of today's labors.

-

-Soon after the hunters started out at noon we came to a long range

-of dog towns and saw many of the little prairie dogs playing around

-their holes. The extent of this dog town is yet unknown, for we have

-traveled over, and parallel with it about five miles this afternoon,

-and they seem to extend still farther west. In some places the town

-is nearly two miles broad, in others not so much, and must contain

-thousands of the little dogs. I could not get near enough to see their

-form distinctly, for they are so quick into their holes when anything

-approaches, you can only have a partial view of them. They appear to be

-about as long as a common grey squirrel but more chunky, a larger body

-and chubbed head. The tail is short, more resembling that of a dog,

-their color light brown. Their bark resembles the chirp of an English

-throstle, and something like the chirp of a squirrel. They appear to

-live on grass as it is all eaten off close to the ground throughout

-the extent of their dog town, and the ground looks naked and barren

-as a desert. Several of the brethren shot at the dogs but failed in

-killing any. We had a north wind this afternoon and cold weather, our

-course being nearly west over a level prairie, not far distant from the

-island. Since noon we traveled about eight miles, and the encampment

-was formed at half past six o'clock near a small lake about a mile

-above the head of Grand Island. The grass is not so good here as it

-has been back, and but a poor chance for the cattle, etc., to fill

-themselves.

-

-The appearance of the wild buffalo at a distance is somewhat singular.

-The color of the back and about half way down the sides is a light

-brown, the rest is a very dark brown. The shoulder appears slightly

-rounding and humped. When running, the large shaggy head hangs low

-down, about half way in height between the ground and the top of

-the shoulder. They canter like any ox or cow, but appear far more

-cumbersome and heavy, especially about the fore parts, which look

-larger than they really are on account of the long, thick matty hair.

-They run tolerably fast, but a good horse will easily gain on them.

-They will run a long time without diminishing their speed. Their meat

-is very sweet and tender as veal.

-

-Sunday, May 2

-

-This morning is fine but cold. Ice about half an inch thick. Sometime

-in the night a buffalo and calf came within a short distance of the

-wagons. The guard discovered them and shot at the calf, wounding it

-in the hind leg. They caught it alive and tied it up near the wagons

-but concluded finally to kill and dress it. About six o'clock we

-were gladdened to see Joseph Hancock come into camp with a piece of

-buffalo meat. He reported that he killed a buffalo yesterday back on

-the bluffs, and there being no one with him he concluded to stay by it

-over night. He made a fire and scattered a little powder around his

-buffalo to keep off the wolves. Some visited him during the night, but

-were awed by the fire. After he had told his story and taken breakfast,

-Brother Hancock started in company with four or five other brethren to

-fetch in the meat on horseback, as no wagons could get over the bluffs

-to it. They found that the wolves had devoured much of it, but the

-balance they brought along with them. They also killed two antelope and

-brought them into camp. The total number of buffalo now caught is five

-large ones and seven calves. Edmund Ellsworth killed one of the prairie

-dogs, and brought it to camp. It looks much like a squirrel, only the

-body is thicker and the tail short and no bush on it. The day grew

-pleasant till about noon, when it became cloudy and cold. President

-Young, Kimball and others started out to look out a camp ground where

-better feed can be obtained for our stock. They returned a little after

-two and gave orders to go on a few miles. There have been a number of

-buffalo seen in different directions, one grazing within three quarters

-of a mile from camp, but orders were not to hunt or shoot today. At

-three-fifteen the camp started and traveled two miles over dog towns

-as yesterday. At a little after four p.m. we camped beside a long lake

-of shoal, clear water near the banks of the Platte. This lake is about

-three rods wide and connects with the river. The Platte appears about

-two miles wide at this place but very shoal and muddy. There is no

-timber but plenty of grass, mostly last year's growth. The weather is

-more temperate and the wind ceased. President Young, Kimball and others

-went on to look out a crossing place over this lake, etc. On their way,

-they fell in with a buffalo cow and calf and chased them some to get

-a view of them but not to kill. On their return they said we should

-tarry here tomorrow and have some blacksmith work done and probably

-hunt some. Half of the hide off the bull's face was brought into camp.

-On examination I found the mark where Porter shot at his head. The ball

-made a small hole, barely cutting through the outer surface or grain

-of the hide which was near an inch thick. The hair near the top of the

-head is about a foot long.

-

-Monday, May 3

-

-This morning cold and ice in the water pails. The hunters are going

-out on foot. Tanner and Davenport are fixing their forges to do some

-repairing, shoeing, etc. At about nine the hunters, twenty in number,

-started out with two wagons which had been unloaded for the purpose.

-At the same time, fifteen of the brethren on horseback started west

-to examine the route, etc. At two-thirty the party who went to look

-out the route returned and reported that Brother Empey had discovered

-a large war party of Indians while he was chasing an antelope. The

-Indians are in a hollow about twelve miles distance and about three

-hundred in number, some on their horses and some standing beside them

-holding the bridle. The company also saw nearly twenty scattered

-Indians about four miles from here. When this report was made, orders

-were given to dispatch a number of the brethren on horses, well armed

-to warn the hunters and tell them to come to camp. In about half an

-hour, twenty-three men started out on this mission. Before they reached

-the bluffs which are about four miles from here, some of the hunters

-were on their way to camp, having seen only one buffalo during the day.

-In a little time all the hunters were notified and were on their way

-back. They arrived about six o'clock, having got three antelope, and

-the horsemen who went after them got two calves which were all brought

-in and the day passed without accident. Some of the brethren saw some

-objects at a distance, which, by their motions they were satisfied were

-Indians. The day has been fine but cool and cloudy, with occasionally

-a few drops of rain. A number of wagon tires have been set and other

-blacksmithing, washing, drying meat, etc., done. The wind near south.

-The cannon was unlimbered at night and prepared for action in case it

-should be needed.

-

-Tuesday, May 4

-

-The morning fine but cool, wind about southwest. Two horses ran east as

-much as six or eight miles and were pursued by the brethren and brought

-back. William Smoot was thrown from a horse and his senses knocked out

-of him by the fall. He soon recovered and appears to have sustained no

-injury.

-

-At seven-thirty the camp was called and received instructions from

-President Young, especially in regard to leaving the wagons and

-scattering off hunting without counsel. He strongly urged the brethren

-not to do it any more and said if they did, some of them would be

-caught by the Indians and if not killed would be severely abused. The

-instructions and regulations given April 17th were read and enjoined

-upon the camp to be observed more strictly. It was decided that the

-cannon wagon should be unloaded, the box put on another wagon so

-that the cannon can be always ready for action. An addition of ten

-volunteers was made to the standing guard and ordered that all horses

-and mules should be tied inside the circle at night, and the cattle

-and cows outside within a few rods of the wagons. A guard to be placed

-around the cattle when turned out to graze. It is thought best to

-travel with the wagons four abreast and the cannon to go in the rear.

-

-At nine o'clock the wagons commenced moving and passed over the lake

-near its junction with the river, at which place it is about ten or

-twelve feet wide.

-

-After traveling about a half a mile the camp stopped some time, waiting

-for some wagons behind. While stopping, three wagons were discovered on

-the opposite bank of the river, considered to be traders going back to

-Council Bluffs. The river is about two miles wide and no person here

-acquainted with it, consequently no one attempted to go over, which

-many desired. About eleven o'clock we proceeded, five wagons abreast

-so as to be better prepared for defense should the Indians attack us.

-After traveling about two miles, one of the men from the wagons on the

-other side the river overtook us and we halted to see him. He said

-there are only nine of them. They have been to Fort Laramie for furs

-and are going to Council Bluffs. This is the sixteenth day since they

-left the fort with ox teams. He says the road is good on the other

-side and the river easily forded, being not more than knee deep in

-the deepest place and a good bottom. He cheerfully agreed to carry

-letters back for us but could not wait long. I wrote one to my family

-and in about half an hour a pretty large mail was made up to send back

-to Winter Quarters, and may the Lord grant that it may arrive safely.

-Brother Johnson bought a buffalo robe of the man for about a pound and

-a half of coffee, and another brother bought one for a pound of sugar

-and a little pork. I feel my mind relieved by this unexpected privilege

-of writing back to my dear family and hope they will have the pleasure

-of perusing the contents.

-

-At twenty minutes after one the bugle sounded for a march, and the

-messenger is returning with the letters and a bag of provisions on his

-shoulder which the brethren have given him for carrying the letters.

-We traveled about four miles farther and at three-thirty, stopped to

-let the teams feed on a small spot where the fire has not touched, the

-rest having all been burned off within a few days. We have traveled

-today only about six miles, having stopped much. The country is still

-very level and nice traveling only for the dust. The wind south and our

-course nearly west. When the trader went back over the river, Thomas

-Woolsey, John Brown and John Pack accompanied him on horses to speak

-with a person whom Brother Woolsey is acquainted with. They returned

-soon after we stopped to feed and say that the river is very good to

-cross, not being more than two feet deep in the deepest place, and the

-bottom good. The horses broke through but very little. The traders

-say furthermore, that if we continue on this side, we shall have to

-cross the river twice where the water is much deeper and cannot be

-crossed only in a ferry. There is a good traveled road also, which

-would be an advantage we have not got on this side. During the time we

-stopped to feed, a guard was placed around the cattle and horses to

-keep them from straying far from the wagons. Then men were called out

-and drilled with their loaded guns in the circle formed by the wagons.

-Some objects are seen grazing about four miles west of us thought to be

-buffalo. Thirteen in number. Some of the hunters are going out to give

-them a chase, and try to kill some of them. At a quarter after five

-o'clock, the camp was called together and Brother Brown reported what

-the traders said about the route, etc., as above. The subject was then

-talked over and when it was considered that we are making a road for

-thousands of saints to follow, and they cannot ford the river when the

-snow melts from the mountains, it was unanimously voted to keep on this

-side as far as Fort Laramie at least. Soon after this we started on

-again. Saw a lone buffalo but a short distance from us but it galloped

-across the river. Saw also a number of antelope and some deer. About

-seven o'clock we passed a spot where the Indians have camped and must

-have been many of them. A while after sundown we arrived at a creek of

-good water and camped for the night, having traveled about nine miles

-today. The prairie level but all the grass burned off, except in small

-patches. We have camped on a small spot which has escaped the fire.

-Elder Kimball, who was one of the hunters who started out at four

-o'clock, said the objects seen from camp were antelope, but he had seen

-a herd of buffalo about a mile ahead of where we now are. He named this

-creek, Buffalo creek.

-

-Wednesday, May 5

-

-The morning fine and very pleasant. Saw two small herds of buffalo a

-few miles from camp. At seven-thirty continued our journey. I went

-on foot about two miles and then stopped to count the horses, mules,

-oxen, etc., and afterwards walked on again to the first wagons. Here

-Elder Kimball offered me his horse to ride. I then went ahead with the

-horsemen. We soon after came to a very bad slough and had to bear off

-to the north to find a place to cross it. The prairie after we crossed

-this slough about a mile wide from the river was very soft and it was

-necessary to bear still farther to the north. The horses' feet cut

-through the sod and the ground appeared wet under, although there has

-been no rain for some time. At eleven-thirty we stopped to feed on a

-small patch of unburnt grass, having come about nine miles, course

-about west, with a very strong south wind. There were two buffalo

-within about a half a mile from camp, grazing. Some of the brethren

-went to view them, but the orders of the day are not to kill anything

-which the men cannot carry to camp. There are no appearances of Indians

-near except the prairie which is still burning ahead of us, supposed

-to be set on fire by them. About one p.m. continued our journey and

-traveled till three p.m., when some of the hunters came in, bringing a

-live buffalo calf, also one they had killed. They reported that John

-Brown, Jackson Redding and John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson had each killed

-a calf, the one killed by Brother Higbee having previously been shot by

-Amasa Lyman. Joseph Mathews killed a cow and Elder Kimball, O. P.

-Rockwell and John S. Higbee chased the one brought in alive until a dog

-seized it and Porter left his horse and caught it without shooting at

-it and led it to camp. The revenue cutter was unloaded and sent after

-the cow and calf left, they being about three miles off. We traveled on

-about a half an hour and found the prairie all in a blaze. President

-Young and Kimball thinking it unsafe to risk the wagons near the fire,

-ordered the camp to go back a half a mile to an island where we can

-have water for our teams and be secure from the fire. The prairie is

-all burned bare and the black ashes fly bad, making the brethren look

-more like Indians than white folks. There is some feed on the island,

-and the cattle easily ford the stream to it. The calf is tied in the

-circle. When a dog goes near it, it will attack the largest and they

-flee from it, though not more than six or eight weeks old. About half

-past six the revenue cutter arrived with the meat, which was fatter

-than any we have had. They also brought in another calf which they

-killed while out for the cow, making a total of one cow and six calves

-brought into camp today. The meat was divided amongst the companies of

-ten, each having either a calf or half a quarter of a cow.

-

-Thursday, May 6

-

-This morning at five-fifteen, President Young called to the camp and

-proposed to go on to where we can find feed for the teams. The brethren

-assented and he gave orders to start as quickly as possible. However,

-some must feed their teams a little corn, some milk their cows, etc.,

-and it took till near six-thirty to get started. During the night the

-Lord sent a light shower of rain which has put the fire out except in

-one or two places and made it perfectly safe traveling. We have had a

-strong southeast wind through the night but the morning is calm and

-pleasant. We traveled about two miles and stopped on the unburned grass

-to feed at a quarter to seven. Several antelope were surrounded by

-the brethren and some shot at them, killing one. The rest made their

-escape. We can see several large herds of buffalo within about two

-miles of the camp and many calves amongst them. President Young and

-Kimball rode ahead to find a place to stop for feed. The ground is

-hard and good traveling. At a quarter to nine, proceeded on, President

-Young and Kimball going ahead to point out the road. Our course about

-northwest, the wind strong from west. We traveled near the river. Saw

-thirteen elk together, also many antelope and numerous herds of buffalo

-on both sides of the river. Jackson Redding shot an antelope which Luke

-Johnson chased near the wagons.

-

-A young buffalo calf followed Luke to camp, but the President advised

-him to leave it as it is only a few days old. We stopped near the river

-at a quarter to twelve, having traveled about six miles. We find a

-little more grass here, but the numerous herds of buffalo keep it eaten

-off close to the ground nearly all the way we have traveled today. The

-President gave orders that no more game should be killed until further

-orders. It appears we have got as much meat in camp as can be taken

-care of. While we were stopping for noon, some of the cows moved off

-towards a large buffalo herd, and when President Young and Kimball

-started ahead after dinner they discovered the cows near the buffalo.

-Brother Woolsey went to turn them back, but he had to run his mule

-some distance before he could prevent the cows from mingling with the

-buffalo. They brought the cows back to the wagons and then proceeded

-ahead again. One part of the horsemen's business today has been to

-drive the buffalo out of our track, judging it unsafe to risk them

-between the wagons and the river. The camp proceeded on at one-thirty

-and in about two miles distance found a lake of clear water. Here we

-discovered the horsemen coming back, and found that the President had

-lost his large spy glass, while chasing the cows from the buffalo herd,

-a second time. He did not find it. We traveled slowly this afternoon,

-some of the horses and oxen having given out in consequence of lack

-of feed to sustain them. We traveled till six-thirty and camped near

-some islands in the river, having traveled about seven miles this

-afternoon and fifteen through the day, our course a little west of

-northwest. Wind about west. Some think we have traveled eighteen, some

-twenty and some even twenty-five miles today, but from the number of

-times we stopped and the slowness with which the teams moved, I feel

-satisfied that fifteen miles is plenty. About three quarters of a mile

-back we saw a buffalo cow which appears to be sick. She fought the dogs

-some time and then lay down, and the brethren went close to her, some

-venturing to feel and handle her. I was within six or eight feet of her

-and had a good view, as much as I wanted. She has lost all her hair

-and looks very poor and weak. The President ordered that the brethren

-leave her and not disturb her and she was left lying down, but it is

-doubtful the wolves will kill and eat her before morning. When the

-brethren went back to hunt the spy glass they found that the wolves

-had killed the calf and nearly eaten it up. What they had not eaten,

-they carried off with them. We have never been out of sight of herds of

-buffalo today, and from where we are camped, I am satisfied we can see

-over five thousand with the glass. The largest herd we have yet seen is

-still ahead of us. The prairie looks black with them, both on this and

-the other side of the river. Some think we have passed fifty, and some

-even a hundred thousand during the day, or have seen them. It is truly

-a sight wonderful to behold, and can scarcely be credited by those who

-have not actually seen them.

-

-Friday, May 7

-

-This morning the wind northwest and almost as cold as winter. The

-buffalo vastly numerous all around. About eight a.m. the camp was

-called together and measures taken to raise more teams to put to the

-canyon as some of the horses and even cattle have given out. The

-President chastised Elder Snow for not attending to the cows yesterday

-causing the President to lose his spy glass, it being Brother Snow's

-turn to drive the cows according to his own voluntary agreement. At a

-little before eleven o'clock, Porter Rockwell, Thomas Brown and Joseph

-Mathews started back to hunt the spy glass, and soon after they left,

-the camp proceeded onward. The day was cloudy and very cold. Our course

-about northwest. We traveled about seven miles and camped at two-thirty

-near several small islands, on the banks of the river. About four p.m.,

-Porter and the others returned, having found the spy glass, which was

-a source of joy to all the brethren. At six-thirty the companies were

-called out to drill. I have been very sick all day with a complaint and

-have suffered much.

-

-Saturday, May 8

-

-Morning cold but fine. Started out at nine o'clock and traveled till

-one p.m., distance seven and a half miles, course a little west

-of northwest. The prairie on both sides of the river is literally

-black with buffalo, and to try to say as to what number we have seen

-this morning would be folly. I should imagine that at a moderate

-calculation, we have seen over fifty thousand. They are more tame than

-they have been, and will stand till the wagons come within two hundred

-yards of them. Porter has shot one about two years old, the meat looks

-nice. There is no difficulty in getting meat enough. It is with some

-difficulty that the horsemen can drive them away from the track as

-fast as the wagons come up. It is very warm today, and no wind. I have

-counted the revolutions of a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance

-we have traveled. The reason why I have taken this method which is

-somewhat tedious, is because there is generally a difference of two and

-sometimes four miles in a day's travel between my estimation and that

-of some others, and they have all thought I underrated it. This morning

-I determined to take pains to know for a certainty how far we travel

-today. Accordingly I measured the circumference of the nigh hind wheel

-of one of Brother Kimball's wagons being the one I sleep in, in charge

-of Philo Johnson. I found the wheel 14 feet 8 inches in circumference,

-not varying one eighth of an inch. I then calculated how many

-revolutions it would require for one mile and found it precisely 360

-not varying one fraction which somewhat astonished me. I have counted

-the whole revolutions during the day's travel and I find it to be a

-little over eleven and a quarter miles, twenty revolutions over. The

-overplus I shall add to the next day's travel. According to my previous

-calculations we were two hundred eighty-five miles from Winter Quarters

-this morning before we started. After traveling ten miles I placed a

-small cedar post in the ground with these words written on it with

-a pencil. "From Winter Quarters, two hundred ninety-five miles, May

-8, '47. Camp all well. Wm. Clayton." Some have past the day's travel

-at thirteen and some fourteen miles, which serves to convince more

-strongly that the distances are overrated. I have repeatedly suggested

-a plan of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance

-we travel in a day, and many begin to be sanguine for carrying it into

-effect, and I hope it will be done. Our course this afternoon has been

-northwest, no wind and the prairie as bare as a poor English pasture,

-the grass being eaten off by uncountable herds of buffalo. No pen nor

-tongue can give an idea of the multitude now in sight continually, and

-it appears difficult to keep them away from the wagons. Two calves

-have been killed and brought to camp and multitudes would be killed

-if the President did not prohibit the brethren from killing them only

-as we need the meat. Truly, the Lord's cattle upon the thousand hills

-are numerous. We are now camped on the banks of the river within a

-quarter of a mile from where the range of bluffs, which have appeared

-exceedingly ragged all day, strike the river, and when we move again we

-have got to cross over them. President Young and Kimball have been back

-on the bluffs on foot some distance and report that as far as they can

-see the grass is eaten perfectly bare and the prospect for feed for our

-teams is poor indeed. There are several buffalo lying dead around here,

-whether dead from old age or by the hands of hunters or of starvation,

-it is unknown. Many of the brethren have to cook their victuals on dry

-buffalo dung, there being no wood near.

-

-Sunday, May 9

-

-The morning very cold with wind southeast. At seven-fifty we proceeded

-on three and a half miles, going a little around some of the bluffs

-until we turned down on a low bottom and very sandy. We have camped

-near some islands and can get wood and water, but poor feed for the

-teams. We arrived here at nine-fifty and shall stay till morning.

-Soon as the camp was formed, I went about three quarters of a mile

-below to the river and washed my socks, towel and handkerchief as well

-as I could in cold water without soap. I then stripped my clothing

-off and washed from head to foot, which has made me feel much more

-comfortable for I was covered with dust. After washing and putting on

-clean clothing I sat down on the banks of the river and gave way to a

-long train of solemn reflections respecting many things, especially in

-regard to my family and their welfare for time and eternity. I shall

-not write my thoughts here, inasmuch as I expect this journal will have

-to pass through other hands besides my own or that of my family but if

-I can carry my plans into operation, they will be written in a manner

-that my family will each get their portion, whether before my death or

-after, it matters not.

-

-The day is very warm and the wind has moved to the west. According to

-my calculations, we are now 300 miles from Winter Quarters, lacking a

-few rods. I got a small board and wrote on it: "From Winter Quarters

-three hundred miles, May 9, 1847. Pioneer Camp all well. Distance

-according to the reckoning of Wm. Clayton." This was nailed on a post

-and in the evening I went and set it up about three hundred yards from

-here on a bend of the river. Spent the afternoon reading and writing

-in Elder Kimball's journal. At three p.m. a meeting was called and the

-camp addressed by several. President Young took tea with Elder Kimball,

-and afterwards they started out together with one or two others to

-look at the country ahead of us. They went a few miles and found a

-small stream which we shall have to cross. Here they saw multitudes of

-buffalo coming to water. Porter and Phineas Young went within six or

-eight rods of them to try to get one, but in the whole herd, they could

-not find one fit to kill. They are very poor, for there is no feed for

-them, and in fact they are so numerous that they eat the grass as fast

-as it springs. There are, however, some good cottonwood groves and

-good water at the stream. After sundown the wind blew strong from the

-northwest and the evening was cold and chilly.

-

-Monday, May 10

-

-The morning fine but cool. The wind nearly ceased. Last night I

-dreamed that I was in company with the camp which was stopping beside

-a considerable river of deep water. Our horses and cattle were tied

-to stakes all around the camp to the distance of a quarter of a mile,

-some good timber thinly scattered around. I thought President Young,

-Kimball and several others started up the river in a flat boat without

-stating their object, leaving the brethren to guard the camp, cattle,

-etc. in their absence. When they had been gone sometime I thought a

-large herd of buffalo came on full gallop right amongst our horses and

-cattle, causing them to break their ropes and fly in every direction.

-The brethren seemed thunderstruck and did not know what to do. Seeing a

-small skiff in the river, I sprang into it, and a paddle lying in it,

-I commenced rowing in pursuit of the President. It seemed as though I

-literally flew through the water passing everything on the way like a

-railway carriage. In a few minutes I overtook the brethren in the flat

-boat, took the skiff and threw it on shore and to my astonishment I

-saw that the skiff was made only of barks and cracked all over, and

-it seemed impossible to put it in the water without sinking it. The

-paddle with which I had rowed proved to be a very large feather and I

-had another feather in my left hand with which I steered the skiff.

-When I got into the flat boat, I made known what had passed in the

-camp, but the brethren seemed no ways alarmed. I awoke and behold, it

-was all a dream. Dr. Richards is going to deposit a letter in a stick

-of wood prepared for the purpose near this place in such a manner that

-the next company will discover it. He fixed it on a long pole and being

-assisted by President Young and others raised it and fixed it firm in

-the ground. His distance from Winter Quarters three hundred and sixteen

-miles. At nine five the camp proceeded onward. After traveling two

-miles we crossed a small creek which Elder Kimball named Skunk creek,

-easily forded, though the ground was soft on the west side. About this

-time the brethren at the head of the camp discovered a strange horse

-alone on the prairie. Porter and Thomas Brown gave chase to try to

-catch it. Brother John Brown states that when the Mississippi company

-passed on the other side last season, one of the brethren lost a mare

-and two colts, and this is supposed to be the oldest of the two. When

-Brother Woolsey and Tippets came through from the battalion last winter

-they saw the same horse near here. We traveled till twelve five and

-finding a little better feed stopped for dinner having traveled a few

-rods over six miles. The last two miles was over very soft prairie and

-although the last year's grass has not been burned, the wheels cut

-through the sod frequently. At the creek four miles back, some of the

-brethren shot a buffalo which was brought into camp in the revenue

-cutter. The meat is said to be good and the fattest we have had. At

-two we continued our journey. About the same time Porter and Brown

-returned having failed to catch the horse. After traveling about half

-a mile we crossed a very bad slough, and beyond that for a mile the

-ground was wet and soft. The teams began to give out, and at half past

-four o'clock, the President ordered the wagons to strike for the timber

-which was a little out of our course, but necessary to favor the teams

-and obtain wood and water. We arrived near the timber and camped at

-four fifty, having traveled since my last guide post a little over

-nine and three-fourths miles, the last two miles the ground being dry

-and good traveling. Some of the hunters killed a deer and we had some

-venison for supper. Our course a little north of west. Light wind from

-northwest. The day warm and pleasant. We have a little better feed for

-cattle, and on the island plenty of brouse for horses, better timber

-than we have had for some time past. It appears plain that vast herds

-of buffalo have wintered here, but have mostly left and gone eastward

-sometime ago, and we have the full growth of this year's grass which

-is small indeed. The grass evidently springs later the farther west we

-travel, and nature seems to have taught the wild cattle this lesson,

-hence their eastward progress. There are some scattering herds of

-buffalo around, but not nearly so numerous as they were some thirty

-miles back. The face of the country here is indeed beautiful, the soil

-rich on the bottoms, the ragged bluffs on each side of the river have

-a splendid appearance, and at about ten miles distance, west of where

-we now are, they seem to circle around until they form a junction. It

-appears evident also, that we are above the junction of the north and

-south forks of the Platte, the north fork running nearly northwest and

-the south fork southwest. Brother Woolsey says these are the forks

-in reality, but are connected some miles higher up by a slough, and

-consequently the land between is set down by travelers as the main land

-rather than as an island.

-

-Tuesday, May 11

-

-The morning cold. Wind east; camp well. At 7:00 a.m. went with a number

-of the brethren who were going to dig some wolves out of a hole about a

-quarter of a mile from camp. They dug out four and brought them alive

-to camp. They are probably six or eight weeks old and about the size

-of an English hare, very vicious. At half past nine the camp moved

-onward over a very nice level, dry prairie for five miles. Amongst the

-timber on the island could be seen many small cedar trees. At the end

-of five miles, we had to pass over a small ridge of low, sandy bluffs,

-which extended to the river. After passing nearly over the bluffs we

-stopped half an hour to water the teams and eat a little dinner, then

-proceeded on three miles farther and passed over a creek of clear

-water, but this could not be very good in consequence of so many dead

-buffalo lying in it. We proceeded on half a mile, and finding tolerably

-good feed, stopped for the night, having traveled eight and half miles

-today. Weather fine, wind south and southeast; course a little west

-or northwest. We have seen few buffalo today, but there are signs

-of thousands having wintered in the neighborhood. The country looks

-beautiful, soil rich, only lacking timber. After the camp was formed,

-it being half a mile to water, the brethren dug two wells, and about

-four feet deep found plenty of good water. One of the wells is reported

-to run a pail full a minute. Brother Appleton Harmon is working at the

-machinery for the wagon to tell the distance we travel and expects

-to have it in operation tomorrow, which will save me the trouble of

-counting, as I have done, during the last four days. Took supper on

-some duck presented to Elder Kimball by George Billings.

-

-Wednesday, May 12

-

-Morning cool, weather fine. Brother Appleton Harmon has completed the

-machinery on the wagon so far that I shall only have to count the

-number of miles, instead of the revolution of the wagon wheel. We

-started at 9:10, the first mile pretty soft, the rest tolerably hard

-and very good traveling. We have passed over vast beds of salt, or

-rather dust with a salt taste. It looks something like dirty flour.

-Traveled eight miles in four hours and two minutes, and stopped at

-12:48 to feed, nearly opposite two small islands. The feed tolerably

-good. Our course northwest. Considerable strong wind from southeast

-covering everything in the wagons with dust and sand. No timber on the

-bank of the river and but little on the islands. The hunters report

-that they have seen many dead buffalo between here and the bluff with

-the hides off and tongues taken out, a strong proof that Indians have

-been here very recently, as the flesh looks fresh and lately killed.

-The range of bluffs on each side the river extend much farther apart,

-and near the foot of the south range can be seen timber scattering

-along, which is an evidence that the south fork ranges in that

-direction, although some are sanguine that we have not yet arrived at

-the junction.

-

-At half past three we moved on again and traveled four miles, camped

-at a quarter to six near a bunch of small islands, and a kind of bayou

-projecting from the river. Our course this afternoon a little south of

-west, having come around a considerable bend in the river. The land

-good and good traveling. Wind southeast. Several of the brethren caught

-a number of small fish in the bayou or lake. The feed here is rather

-scanty. Heavy clouds are rising in the west and northwest, and a fair

-prospect for some rain which is much needed. It is now certain that we

-are about fourteen and a half miles above the junction of the north and

-south forks of the Platte, and although we have to make a new road all

-the way, we find no obstacles so far. Brother Woodruff reports that he

-has been beyond the bluffs north of the camp and saw upwards of 200

-wickeups where the Indians have camped very recently.

-

-He found a cured buffalo skin and some pieces of other skins also. The

-hunters killed a two year old buffalo and brought it to camp. Brother

-Orson Pratt reports that when we were five and a half miles back, we

-were in latitude 41 deg. 9' 44".

-

-Thursday, May 13

-

-This morning cold and cloudy, cold enough for overcoats and buffalo

-robes. The buffalo which was killed yesterday was cut up and divided

-this morning amongst the companies of tens. Some feelings are manifest

-this morning between Brothers Thomas Tanner and Aaron Farr on account

-of the former taking the latter prisoner and putting him under a

-guard part of the night. Perhaps Aaron was a little out of order in

-conversing loud after the horn blew for prayers, but I think Brother

-Tanner's angry spirit more blameable. At 9:00 we moved onward nearly

-a west course four miles and at 11:00 stopped to feed teams at a spot

-which is a little better than we generally have. The wind strong from

-north and northeast.

-

-At half past twelve we proceeded on again and traveled till four

-o'clock, distance six and three quarters miles. At this distance we

-arrived at a stream about six rods wide which appears to come from

-the northeast, the water in appearance like the Platte, the bottom of

-the river quick sand. Water in the middle about two feet deep; at the

-sides quite shoal. It appears that travelers have never discovered this

-stream for it is not noticed in any works that we have seen. We crossed

-it without difficulty and camped on its banks. The weather cloudy and

-very cold, with a strong north wind. Presidents Young and Kimball rode

-ahead as usual to look out the road. They report that the bluffs half a

-mile west come clear to the river and are considerably high. They found

-several ranges of them and finally found a valley running between some

-of the ranges through which we can pass by going about a mile around

-from our course. This stream according to measurement, twenty-five and

-one quarter miles above the junction of the two forks and 341 miles

-from Winter Quarters, by estimation. President Young named it the North

-Bluff Fork. A while before we arrived here four of the brethren went to

-chase a few buffalo which were lying down at the foot of the bluffs,

-but they did not get any. Presidents Young and Kimball saw a very large

-rattlesnake near the river. Brother Kimball says the largest he ever

-saw in his life. I saw a small green snake today, very pretty, the back

-light green and the belly a pale yellow. Presidents Young and Kimball

-suffered severely with cold while riding over the bluffs to look for a

-road. Had to use buffalo dung for cooking, there being no timber.

-

-Friday, May 14

-

-The morning cloudy and very cold. In the west could occasionally be

-seen streaks of lightning and distant thunder heard. At 8:00 a.m. the

-dark clouds having approached nearer, it commenced raining pretty

-hard, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The President ordered the

-horses got up just before the rain commenced; and after the storm

-ceased, we started onward at a quarter past ten. After traveling about

-a mile we passed among and around the high bluffs, our course lying

-nearly in a north direction for some time, then turning south and

-on again approaching the river, nearly southeast. When within about

-three quarters of a mile from the river, we stopped to feed at twenty

-minutes to two, having traveled six and a quarter miles. We have got

-on the level bottom again and are probably not more than three miles

-in a direct line from where we started this morning. Presidents Young

-and Kimball went forward to point out the route, which is very good to

-travel, although considerably uneven. Brother Higbee killed an antelope

-and wounded another which made its escape while he was loading his

-rifle. We have better feed here than we have had for some time. We had

-a little more rain just as we came to a halt. We have not had much wind

-this morning but it is now increasing from the north. It is somewhat

-warmer than this morning. The atmosphere cloudy and looks as if we

-might have more rain. The land between the two forks for about 25 miles

-is perfectly flat and very level without timber.

-

-The bluffs there rise suddenly, apparently in a line from fork to

-fork. There are many buffalo back in the valleys between the bluffs,

-and although there is no sign of the prairie having been burned, it

-is evident the buffalo have kept it eaten clean off, but have moved

-back and east, probably since the Indians have been hunting them. Some

-of the brethren have discovered fresh tracks where the Indians have

-gone up this north stream, evidently very lately. But we are satisfied

-the Lord hears the prayers of his servants and sends them out of the

-way before we come up to them. At three o'clock we proceeded on our

-journey, keeping above the lower prairie, which appeared soft and

-swampy. Our road was very uneven. We went two and a half miles and

-at half past four stopped to learn the report of those gone ahead to

-look out the road. There is another high range of bluffs about half

-a mile west of us, extending to the river. Elder Kimball went across

-the several ranges of bluffs to the west side, and hunted for a road

-in various directions, but there did not appear to be any possibility

-of finding a road between the bluffs, without going many miles around.

-President Young and he concluded it would be best to camp where the

-wagons are and in the morning cross right over the bluffs by doubling

-teams. Accordingly the encampment was formed about five-thirty, the

-train having traveled eight and three quarters miles today. Our course

-this afternoon nearly west, wind southeast. The feed for our teams

-grows much better, and on one of these high sandy bluffs I saw a large

-bed of flowers, not unlike the violet, and very rich. The sand on the

-bluffs in some places looks like large drifts of snow, and in other

-places seems to have deep chasms as if wasted by heavy rains. The

-atmosphere is still cloudy but not so cold as it has been. The hunters

-have killed two buffalo, three antelope and one badger during the day,

-which will be very acceptable. It was dark when the hunters returned to

-give the information. The revenue cutter was sent after the meat which

-was reported to be a mile and a half distant. It was late when they

-returned. There was an alarm made by the guard in the night supposing

-the Indians were near. The camp were aroused to secure their horses,

-but we had no further trouble about them.

-

-I discovered that Brother Appleton Harmon is trying to have it

-understood that he invented the machinery to tell the distance we

-travel, which makes me think less of him than I formerly did. He is not

-the inventor of it by a long way, but he has made the machinery, after

-being told how to do it. What little souls work.

-

-Saturday, May 15

-

-This morning is very cloudy and very cold, more like a January morning

-than a May morning. The wind blows strong from the northeast. The

-brethren who killed the buffalo did not bring it to camp last night,

-but put it in the boat and left it till morning. About half past seven

-they brought it in and divided it to the captains of ten. At eight

-o'clock it commenced raining again but abated a little before nine. At

-nine o'clock we commenced moving and after traveling three-quarters of

-a mile began to ascend the sandy bluffs. It commenced raining again and

-it looks like rain for all day. It is very cold, the wind continues

-strong. The road was much of a zig zag over the bluffs, but only about

-a mile before we descended to the bottom. We traveled a piece farther

-and at half past ten o'clock it was considered best to turn out the

-teams until it ceases raining, after traveling two and a quarter miles.

-We found it unnecessary to double teams while crossing the bluffs and

-we got over without difficulty, much better than we had anticipated.

-About noon it again ceased raining and the signal was given to harness

-up teams. At half past twelve we proceeded and traveled till a quarter

-to three, distance four and a half miles, then formed the encampment

-in a circle about a quarter of a mile from the river. The road has

-been level but soft and wet, however not bad traveling. The bluffs are

-about half a mile to the north and several herds of buffalo grazing on

-them. Some of the hunters are gone to try and get some meat. The wind

-still keeps up, and is cold, damp and uncomfortable. The feed appears

-better here than we have had for some days, and the cattle soon fill

-themselves which is a comfort and blessing to the camp. Some of the

-brethren have been lucky enough to pick up a few sticks and dead wood

-but our chief dependence for fuel is dry buffalo dung which abounds

-everywhere, but the rain has injured it some for burning. About two

-miles back we passed a place where the Indians have lately camped

-during their hunt. It is plain that whole families are amongst their

-number as the foot prints and moccasins of children have several times

-been seen. They evidently make use of the buffalo dung for fuel, and

-for seats, they dig up sods and lay them in a circle around their

-fire which is in the center. We have passed a number of these little

-temporary camping spots this afternoon. The reason why we did not

-travel farther was that Elder Kimball being gone ahead to look out the

-road, etc., he found as he came near the next bluffs that the feed is

-all eaten off by the numerous herds of buffalo and found also, that we

-shall have to travel over the bluffs and they appear wide and would be

-impossible for the teams to get over them tonight, hence the necessity

-of stopping here where we have good feed. The soil on this prairie

-looks good and rich but there is no timber. In fact there is none in

-sight, except a small grove on the other side the river about two miles

-west of the camp. Late at night Porter Rockwell came in and reported

-that he killed a buffalo. The cutter was sent for it to bring it to

-camp. Our course this afternoon nearly west.

-

-Sunday, May 16

-

-Morning fine, but chilly and cold. Wind north. Eric Glines killed an

-antelope near the camp which was cut up and distributed. Soon after

-breakfast, President Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff and Benson went on

-horseback to look out the best road over the bluffs. They returned at

-half past twelve and reported that we can pass through a valley between

-and around the bluffs, which will be about four miles across them.

-About 5:00 p.m. several buffalo were seen making their way from the

-bluffs towards our horses, some of which were very near them. Brother

-Eric Glines started out with the intention of driving the buffalo away,

-and bringing the horses nearer camp. When he got near, the buffalo did

-not seem much disposed to move and he shot at one of them and wounded

-him. He moved a little farther and Brother Glines followed him and shot

-three times more at him. The buffalo then ran about forty rods, fell,

-and soon expired. I went to look at him. He is a large one, judged to

-weigh about 700 pounds, and in pretty good order. I left the brethren

-skinning him and returned to camp where a meeting had been called at

-5:00 p.m., and the brethren addressed by Elders Richards, Markham,

-Rockwood and Kimball, chiefly on the subject of obeying counsel, and

-Elder Kimball remarked in regard to hunting on the Sabbath. He would

-not do it even in case of necessity, but he did not feel disposed to

-find fault with the brethren. The laws and regulations for the camp of

-April 18th were then read by Brother Bullock and the meeting dismissed.

-About noon today Brother Appleton Harmon completed the machinery on

-the wagon called a "roadometer" by adding a wheel to revolve once in

-ten miles, showing each mile and also each quarter mile we travel, and

-then casing the whole over so as to secure it from the weather. We are

-now prepared to tell accurately, the distance we travel from day to

-day which will supersede the idea of guessing, and be a satisfaction

-not only to this camp, but to all who hereafter travel this way. I

-have prepared another board to put up here on which the distance from

-Winter Quarters is marked at 3563/4 miles. I have also written on it that

-the last seventy miles are measured, and we shall continue to measure

-and put up guide posts as often as circumstances will permit through

-the journey. The whole machinery consists of a shaft about 18 inches

-long placed on gudgeons, one in the axle tree of the wagon, near which

-are six arms placed at equal distances around it, and in which a cog

-works which is fastened on the hub of the wagon wheel, turning the

-shaft once round at every six revolutions of the wagon wheel. The upper

-gudgeon plays in a piece of wood nailed to the wagon box, and near this

-gudgeon on the shaft a screw is cut. The shaft lays at an angle of

-about forty-five degrees. In this screw, a wheel of sixty cogs works on

-an axle fixed in the side of the wagon, and which makes one revolution

-each mile. In the shaft on which this wheel runs, four cogs are cut

-on the fore part which plays in another wheel of forty cogs which

-shows the miles and quarters to ten miles. The whole is cased over and

-occupies a space of about 18 inches long, 15 inches high and 3 inches

-thick.

-

-After the meeting was dismissed, the cutter was sent to fetch the

-meat in, killed by Brother Glines. They soon returned and the meat

-was distributed as usual. Presidents Young and Kimball have walked

-out together towards the bluffs. After supper Elder Whipple made me

-a present of a half a candle made from buffalo tallow, by the light

-of which I continue this journal. Although, as may be expected, the

-buffalo are generally poorer at this season of the year, yet Brother

-Whipple has obtained sufficient to make two candles from his portion

-of meat received yesterday morning. The candle burns very clear and

-pleasant. The tallow smells sweet and rich. I imagine it has a more

-pleasant smell than the tallow of domestic cattle.

-

-Monday, May 17

-

-The morning very cold and chilly, wind northwest. Dr. Richards left

-another letter on the camp ground for the benefit of the next company.

-The letter is secured from the weather by a wooden case, and placed so

-that the brethren can hardly miss finding it.

-

-We started on our journey at 8:13 a.m. After traveling a mile and a

-half, we arrived at the foot of another range of bluffs which extend to

-the river, and began to ascend about a quarter of a mile north from the

-river, the road also turning to the north. A quarter of a mile farther,

-we crossed a stream of spring water about three feet wide. The road for

-a little distance on both sides the stream is rough, sandy and crooked.

-We then turned westward, and passed over a number of bluffs as there

-was no chance to go around them without going miles out of our course.

-On these sandy bluffs, there are very many small lizards about four or

-five inches long from nose to the end of the tail, which is an inch and

-a half long. The body looks short and chunky and is of a light grey

-color with two rows of dark brown spots on each side of the body which

-make it appear striped. The head is shaped something like the head of

-a snake. They appear perfectly harmless and are pretty in appearance.

-After traveling two and a quarter miles beyond the last mentioned

-stream, we arrived at the west foot of the bluffs. The last part of the

-road very sandy and there are several very steep places of descent.

-However all the teams got safely over without difficulty. At the west

-foot of the bluffs, there appears more grass than anywhere we have

-yet been, although the buffalo have eaten it off considerably. Within

-a quarter of a mile from the bluffs, we crossed two small streams of

-spring water and at a mile from the foot of the bluffs, we crossed a

-stream of spring water about four feet wide with a very rapid current.

-The whole of this bottom seems full of springs and we have to keep near

-the bluffs to make a good road to travel, and in fact, we find it more

-or less soft and springy even close to the bluffs. A mile and a quarter

-west of the last mentioned spring is another small stream of very clear

-spring water. The others are rather muddy by running over sandy land.

-They all appear to have their rise in the bluffs a short distance from

-our road. At 11:35 we stopped to feed having traveled this morning,

-six and three quarters miles. Our course west, weather fine, warm, and

-little wind. While we were resting, one of President Young's horses

-(in care of Phineas) mired down in a soft slough. A number of men soon

-collected and with a rope dragged it out, washed and rubbed it, and all

-was well again. Latitude 41 deg. 12' 50".

-

-At two o'clock, we proceeded onward. After traveling a half a mile, we

-arrived at a very shoal stream of clear water about thirty feet wide

-but not over three inches deep in the channel which is about three feet

-wide. We forded it very easily and then passed over a short range of

-low sandy bluffs about a quarter of a mile wide and then entered on

-level prairie again, but we found it very soft and springy. Within two

-and a half miles from the last mentioned stream we passed two others,

-one very small, the other about four feet wide. They both doubtless

-rise from springs at the foot of the bluffs. About ten minutes after

-three o'clock, word arrived that a buffalo was killed by the hunters

-about a mile from the road. Two men were sent to skin and dress it.

-About the same time the revenue cutter arrived with two more buffalo,

-one said to have been killed by Luke Johnson and the other by John

-Brown, also an antelope killed by Amasa Lyman. The wagons halted at

-a quarter to four, took the meat out of the boat, which immediately

-returned to fetch the other buffalo which was killed by Porter

-Rockwell. The meat was cut in quarters and put into the wagons and at

-half past four o'clock we again moved onward and traveled till 5:50

-p.m. and camped on a nice dry bottom prairie where the grass is shorter

-than that we have passed all day. We traveled this afternoon six miles

-and during the day twelve and three quarters, about a west course. We

-are some distance from water but several wells were soon dug and good

-water obtained at about four feet deep. Soon after we camped the boat

-came in with the other buffalo and the meat was all distributed equally

-around the camp, but it appears that some have already got more than

-they need and feel unwilling to take a good forequarter. The bluffs

-on the opposite side the river project to the river for some distance

-opposite this place. Latitude 41 deg. 13' 20".

-

-Tuesday, May 18

-

-The morning fine and very pleasant. At seven o'clock the President

-called the captains of tens to his wagons and gave them a pretty severe

-lecture. He referred to some who had left meat on the ground and would

-not use it because it was not hind quarter. Some would murmur because

-a fore quarter of meat was alloted to them, etc., which is not right,

-for God has given us a commandment that we should not waste meat, nor

-take life unless it is needful, but he can see a disposition in this

-camp to slaughter everything before them, yea if all the buffalo and

-game there is on our route were brought together to the camp, there are

-some who would never cease until they had destroyed the whole. Some men

-will shoot as much as thirty times at a rabbit if they did not kill it,

-and are continually wasting their ammunition, but when they have used

-all they have got, they may have the pleasure of carrying their empty

-guns to the mountains and back, for he will not furnish them. We have

-now meat enough to last some time if we will take proper care of it. As

-to the horsemen, there are none with the exception of Brothers Kimball,

-Woodruff and Benson, that ever take the trouble to look out a good road

-for the wagons but all they seem to care about is to wait till their

-breakfast is cooked for them, and when they have eaten it, they mount

-their horses and scatter away, and if an antelope comes across the

-track, the whole of us must be stopped perhaps half an hour while they

-try to creep up near enough to kill it, but when we come to a bad place

-on the route, all the interest they have is to get across the best

-they can and leave myself and one or two others to pick out a crossing

-place and guide the camp all the time. Such things are not right, and

-he wants them to cease and all take an interest in the welfare of the

-camp, be united, and receive the meat as a blessing from God and not as

-a stink offering from the devil. It is not necessary to preach to the

-elders in this camp, they know what is right as well as he does, and he

-will not preach to them all the time. Let the captains do the best they

-know how and teach their men to do likewise. The meeting dispersed,

-the meat was taken care of and at a quarter past eight we started out

-again, and traveled three and a quarter miles nearly a west course

-over a very hard prairie and good traveling and then arrived at a nice

-stream, Rattlesnake creek, about twenty or twenty-five feet wide, a

-foot or 18 inches deep and a very strong current. This stream must take

-its rise some distance back in the bluffs or else is supplied from many

-strong springs, for there is much water comes down it. We traveled on

-from this near the bank of the river about a northwest course over

-tolerably rough land till 11:10 and then stopped to feed having come

-six and a half miles this morning, the weather very hot. Opposite the

-stream last mentioned on the south side the river, are several pine

-groves, or rather cedar groves. There is some little pine wood, such

-as knots and dead branches that can be picked up on the banks of the

-river. It has floated from above. This, with a little buffalo chips,

-makes a good fire for cooking. Latitude noon 41 deg. 3' 44". Rattlesnake

-creek was so named from the following incident: President Young, as he

-rode up to the banks of the creek discovered that his horse stepped

-within a foot of a very large rattlesnake. He turned his horse away

-without harming it. Soon afterward, one of the brethren came up on foot

-and stepped within two feet and a half of it. It immediately coiled up

-and sprang at him and would have struck him (as it sprang 21/2 feet) had

-he not jumped to one side. He took his rifle and shot the snake dead.

-

-The head of Cedar Bluffs, as named by Fremont, is three miles west of

-where we camped last night. At 1:05 p.m. we continued our journey.

-Our route lay near the banks of the river which seems narrower here.

-After traveling three and a half miles, we crossed a stream about six

-feet wide, and three quarters of a mile farther another stream of

-tolerably deep, clear water about five feet wide. This stream is very

-crooked and seems to run from the bluffs to the river in a perfect

-serpentine or zig zag direction. Soon after starting this afternoon, we

-discovered some dog towns, the grass eaten perfectly bare all around.

-The feed is growing worse again, evidently eaten up by the buffalo. At

-noon, a heavy black cloud arose in the west and we had a little rain,

-accompanied by lightning and distant thunder. After passing the last

-mentioned creek about a mile, we had to change our course to nearly

-northwest on account of a bend in the river. We traveled till 5:30

-and formed our encampment on the west bank of a running stream about

-eight feet wide and one foot deep which is five miles from the crooked

-creek, making our afternoon's travel nine and a quarter miles and the

-day's travel fifteen and three quarters. The bluffs and the river here

-are about a quarter of a mile apart, the river very wide, feed poor,

-plenty of float wood, pine and cedar, for fuel. The weather calm and

-warm, though cloudy. After encampment was formed, went with Elder Orson

-Pratt to Dr. Richards' wagon to enter into arrangements for making

-a map of our route. The doctor wants me to do it, assisted by Elder

-Pratt's observations. He handed me Fremont's map, and I retired to my

-wagon to commence operations, but soon found that the map does not

-agree with my scale nor Elder Pratt's calculations. I then proposed to

-Elder Pratt to wait until we get through the journey and take all the

-necessary data and then make a new one instead of making our route on

-Fremont's. The subject is left here till morning. After supper I took

-my candle and finished this day's journal. At dark Colonel Markham

-called the camp together to tell the brethren their duty in regard

-to traveling, guarding teams, and standing guard at nights. The old

-laws of April 18th were talked over and additional by-laws added, but

-not being present I did not hear them, neither can I learn anything

-from those who were present, for they all say that there were so many

-little matters touched upon, and so many resolutions passed that they

-remembered only one--and that is, when any man goes out of the

-sound of the horn to fetch in his team, and sees another man's horse

-or mule or ox, a little beyond or near his, he shall drive it also to

-camp, and if he neglect to do so, he shall be sent back to do it even

-if it requires an escort to make him. About seven o'clock the wind

-shifted around to the north and blew strong and cold.

-

-Wednesday, May 19

-

-It has rained a little most of the night and still looks gloomy, cloudy

-and like for a rainy day. Inasmuch as the feed is not good here, it

-was thought best to move on before breakfast a few miles and seek

-better feed. We started out at 5:05, the second division having the

-right to lead, but a part of the first division being ready a little

-before all the second were ready, they rushed on their teams, drove

-fast and those of the second division behind had to leave the track

-and run their teams to take their places. We traveled two and three

-quarters miles, our course eleven and one fourth degrees north of west,

-and then crossed a stream three feet wide, and one quarter of a mile

-farther crossed another four feet wide. Our route lay within about

-one quarter of a mile from the bluffs and a mile from the river which

-takes a bend south from where we camped last night and runs close to

-the bluffs on the south side. We then turned our course to a little

-west of northwest as the river bends again to the bluffs on this side,

-and traveled a quarter of a mile farther and halted for breakfast at

-6:20, having traveled three and a quarter miles. The main body of the

-camp have stopped a quarter of a mile back, being three miles from

-where we started this morning. The road is mostly sandy, tall grass of

-last year's growth. The two streams we passed seem to form many ponds

-of clear water extending at short distances from each other from the

-bluffs to the river. Elder Kimball has been ahead over the bluffs to

-look out the road. It continues to rain a little occasionally with

-light north wind. Elder Kimball found that the bluffs project entirely

-to the river and are very sandy, but we can cross them without going

-out of our course. At twenty minutes to nine, we proceeded onward a

-little and then waited till the rest of the wagons came up. At the

-distance of nearly a mile and a half, we crossed a stream about twenty

-feet wide, not very deep, neither very good to cross, and exactly at

-the distance of a mile and a half, we arrived at the foot of the bluffs

-and began to ascend without doubling teams. Some of the teams stuck by,

-but by the assistance of the extra men, they all got up. The bluffs

-are very high, sandy and rough, and the sand cuts down considerably,

-making it heavy on teams. These bluffs are three quarters of a mile

-from the east foot to the west foot following our trail which is nearly

-straight. About 200 yards from the west foot of the bluffs, we crossed

-another stream five feet wide. It has rained heavily all the time

-since we started after breakfast and continues. Consequently at half

-past ten the camp formed into platoons and then halted to wait for

-more favorable weather, having traveled six miles today over the worst

-road we have had from Winter Quarters, rendered worse, doubtless, by

-the heavy rains. About half past two the weather looked a little more

-favorable and orders were given to move on. We started at five minutes

-to three, about which time it again rained heavily. We traveled two

-miles and then formed our encampment in a semi-circle on the banks of

-the river, having traveled two miles and through the day, eight miles.

-The first mile this evening was over very soft prairie, the last hard

-and good. The rain still continues to pour down heavily and this has

-been the most uncomfortable day we have had and the hardest on our

-teams. The brethren, however, feel well and cheerful. The ox teams are

-improving in their condition, but the horses do not stand it as well.

-The stream at the east foot of the last mentioned bluffs was named

-Wolf creek from the following circumstance: When Elder Kimball went

-ahead this morning to search out a road, he went up the creek about a

-mile and around over the bluffs to find, if possible, a better road

-than the one close to the river. While he was searching, about a mile

-north from the river he went down into a deep hollow surrounded by high

-bluffs and as he was riding along at the bottom, he turned his head

-to the left and saw two very large wolves at about five rods distance

-gazing at him. One of them he said was nearly as large as a two year

-old steer. When he saw these he looked around on the other side and saw

-several others about the same distance from him, very large ones, and

-all gazing fiercely at him. This startled him considerably, and more

-especially when he reflected that he had no arms. He made a noise to

-try to scare them away but they still stood, and he concluded to move

-away as soon as he could. They did not follow him and he saw a dead

-carcass near, which satisfied him that he had interrupted their repast.

-On mentioning this circumstance to President Young, they named the

-creek "Wolf Creek." He traveled back and forth over ten miles searching

-out a road before breakfast. He also went out again afterwards and

-got badly wet. He then concluded to change his clothing and remain

-in his wagon. The evening is very cool and cloudy with wind from the

-northeast. The rain had ceased about six o'clock, but it still looks

-stormy.

-

-Thursday, May 20

-

-The morning fair, but cloudy, light wind from northwest and cold. At

-7:45 we started out again but had not traveled over a quarter of a

-mile before the roadometer gave way on account of the rain yesterday

-having caused the wood to swell and stick fast. One of the cogs in

-the small wheel broke. We stopped about a half an hour and Appleton

-Harmon took it to pieces and put it up again without the small wheel.

-I had to count each mile after this. Three quarters of a mile from

-where we camped, we crossed a creek eight feet wide and two and a half

-feet deep. We then changed our course to about southwest a mile or so

-following the banks of the river, as the ground was wet and swampy

-nearer the bluffs. The river then winds around about three miles in a

-bend and then strikes a little north of west. The bluffs on the north

-appear to be about two miles from the river. We traveled till 11:15 and

-then halted to feed, having traveled seven and three quarters miles

-over tolerably good road, though at the commencement somewhat soft. On

-the opposite side the river, the bluffs project near its banks. They

-are rocky and almost perpendicular, beautified for miles by groves of

-cedar. Opposite to where we are halted, we can see a ravine running up

-the bluffs and at the foot, a flat bottom of about fifteen acres. At

-the farther side of this bottom is a grove of trees not yet in leaf.

-Brother Brown thinks they are ash and that the place is what is called

-Ash Hollow and on Fremont's map, Ash Creek. We all felt anxious to

-ascertain the fact whether this is Ash Hollow or not, for if it is,

-the Oregon trail strikes the river at this place, and if it can be

-ascertained that such is the fact, we then have a better privilege of

-testing Fremont's distances to Laramie. We have already discovered that

-his map is not altogether correct in several respects, and particularly

-in showing the windings of the river and the distance of the bluffs

-from it. I suggested the propriety of some persons going over in the

-boat and Brother John Brown suggested it to President Young. The

-boat was soon hauled by the brethren to the river, and Orson Pratt,

-Amasa Lyman, Luke Johnson and John Brown started to row over, but the

-current was so exceedingly strong the oars had no effect. John Brown

-then jumped into the river which was about two and a half feet deep

-and dragged the boat over, the others assisting with the oars. After

-some hard labor they arrived on the opposite shore and went to the

-hollow. They soon found the Oregon trail and ascertained that this is

-Ash Hollow, Brother Brown having traveled on that road to near Laramie

-last season with the Mississippi company and knew the place perfectly

-well. They gathered some branches of wild cherry in full bloom, rambled

-over the place a little while and then returned to camp. About the same

-time the camp prepared to pursue their journey. The brethren arrived

-and made their report, and at 1:45 p.m. we proceeded onward. From the

-appearance of the bluffs ahead, our course this afternoon will be west

-and northwest. A light breeze from northwest. Soon after we started,

-one of the brethren killed a large rattlesnake within a rod of the road

-made by the wagons and on the side where the cows travel. He killed it

-to prevent its injuring the cows and threw it away from the road. In

-the river one and a quarter miles above Ash Hollow, there are several

-small islands on which grow many trees of cedar. One of these islands

-is perfectly green over with cedar and looks beautiful. The bluffs also

-on the south side the river continue to be lined with cedar apparently

-for two miles yet and are very high and almost perpendicular, running

-pretty close to the river. On this side the river, the bluffs seem to

-bear farther to the north, being apparently about three miles from the

-river, and a few miles farther west they are as much as five miles from

-the river. After traveling three and a quarter miles from the noon

-stop, we crossed a tributary stream running into the Platte, in a very

-crooked direction, being from four to eight rods wide and two and a

-half feet deep most of the way across, the bottom quick sand, current

-rapid and water of sandy color like the Platte. Some had to double

-teams to get over, but all got over safely. We proceeded on about four

-miles farther and found that the river bends considerably to the north.

-The bluffs also bend to the south, so that the low bluffs in front

-almost reach the banks only barely leaving room for a road. We went

-a little farther and camped for the night at half past five, having

-traveled this afternoon eight miles, making fifteen and three quarters

-miles during the day. Elder Kimball and several others went forward

-on horses to pick out our road as usual. I have seen several kinds of

-herbs growing today which appear new to me. One looks like penny royal,

-smells almost like it, but tastes hot and like the oil of cloves.

-Elder Kimball and others saw a very large wolf about half a mile west,

-and he appeared to be following them to camp. They turned and rode up

-to him and round him, struck their pistols at him, but they did not

-go off, being damp. He finally made his escape. The large stream we

-crossed this afternoon is named Castle Creek from the bluffs on the

-opposite side which much resemble the rock on which Lancaster Castle is

-built. The bluffs are named Castle Bluffs. We had a light shower this

-afternoon, but the evening is fine though very cool.

-

-Friday, May 21

-

-The morning very fine and pleasant though tolerably cold. I put up

-a guide board at this place with the following inscriptions on it:

-"From Winter Quarters 409 miles. From the junction of the North and

-South Forks, 931/4 miles. From Cedar Bluffs, south side the river, 361/2

-miles. Ash Hollow, south side the river, 8 miles. Camp of Pioneers May

-21, 1847. According to Fremont, this place is 132 miles from Laramie.

-N. B. The bluffs opposite are named Castle Bluffs." At 7:35 we

-continued our journey. We found the prairie tolerably wet, many ponds

-of water standing which must have been caused by a heavy fall of

-rain, much more heavy than we had back. However, it was not very bad

-traveling. We made a pretty straight road this morning at about the

-distance of a mile from the river. The bluffs on the north appear to

-be five miles or over from our road. At 11:15 we halted for dinner,

-having traveled nearly seven and three quarters miles, course north

-of northwest, very warm and no wind. Presidents Young and Kimball

-rode forward to pick the road, and near this place they saw a nest of

-wolves, caught and killed two with sticks. Four or five others escaped

-to their hole. At half past one we proceeded onward and found the

-prairie wet, and grass high of last year's growth. After traveling four

-and three quarters miles we arrived at a range of low bluffs projecting

-to the river, which at this place bends to the north. There is,

-however, bottom of about a rod wide between the bluffs and the river,

-but as it is wet and soft, it was preferred to cross over the bluffs by

-bending a little more to the north. We traveled on the bluffs a little

-over a quarter of a mile and then turned on the bottom again. The

-bluffs are low and almost as level as the bottom. After we crossed the

-bluffs we found the road better. We saw about a mile this side of the

-foot of the bluffs, a very large bone almost petrified into stone. Most

-of the brethren believe it to be the shoulder bone of a mammoth, and is

-very large indeed. About this time a badger was brought to the wagons

-which Brother Woodruff had killed. As I was walking along and looking

-over the river, I heard a rattlesnake, and looking down saw that I had

-stepped within a foot of it. It rattled hard but seemed to make away.

-We threw it away from the track without killing it. At five o'clock

-Elder Kimball rode up and stopped the forward teams till the last ones

-got nearer saying that some Indians had come down from the bluffs to

-the brethren ahead. When the rest of the wagons came up we moved on a

-quarter of a mile farther and at half past five formed our encampment

-in a circle with the wagons close together as possible, having traveled

-seven and three quarters miles this afternoon, making fifteen and a

-half through the day. As the camp was forming the two Indians came

-nearer, being a man and his squaw. They represented by signs that they

-were Sioux and that a party of them are now on the bluffs north of us

-and not far distant. By the aid of glasses we could see several on

-the bluffs with their ponies, evidently watching our movements. This

-man was hunting when first seen and appeared afraid when he saw the

-brethren. The squaw fled for the bluffs as fast as her horse could go,

-but by signs made to them they gathered courage and came up. President

-Young gave orders not to bring them into camp, and they soon rode off

-to the bluffs. The man has got a good cloth coat on and appears well

-dressed. The horses they rode are said to be work horses which makes

-us suspect they have stolen them from travelers. The day has been

-very warm and some of the teams gave out. We can see some timber on

-the bluffs on the other side of the river some miles ahead which is

-the first timber we have seen for more than a week, except some small

-cedar and the timber in Ash Hollow, all on the south side the river.

-We are nearly a mile from water and the brethren have to dig wells to

-obtain a supply for cooking. The feed here is very poor, not much but

-old grass. Our course this afternoon has been a little north of west.

-Lorenzo Young shot two very large ducks with one ball and brought them

-to camp. Elder Kimball proposed tonight that I should leave a number of

-pages for so much of his journal as I am behind in copying and start

-from the present and keep it up daily. He furnished me a candle and I

-wrote the journal of this day's travel by candle light in his journal,

-leaving fifty-six pages blank. The evening was very fine and pleasant.

-The latitude at noon halt 41 deg. 24' 5".

-

-Saturday, May 22

-

-Morning beautiful, no wind and warm. We have not been disturbed by

-the Indians; all is peace in the camp. At eight o'clock we continued

-our journey, making a more crooked road than usual, having to bend

-south to near the banks of the river. The prairie somewhat soft and a

-little uneven. After traveling five and a half miles we crossed a very

-shoal creek about twenty feet wide. The bluffs and river about a mile

-apart, but on the other side, the bluffs recede two miles back from

-the river and have lost their craggy and steep appearance, the ascent

-being gradual, while on this side they begin to be rocky, cragged and

-almost perpendicular though not very high. We traveled till half past

-eleven and then halted for noon, having traveled seven and a quarter

-miles, the road on this side the creek being better. Our course about

-west of northwest with a light breeze from the east. Elder Kimball and

-others ahead as usual. The creek above mentioned was named Crab Creek

-because some of the brethren saw a very large crab in it. A mile east

-of this creek is a dry creek, down which, from appearances, a heavy

-stream runs at some seasons of the year, perhaps during heavy storms.

-The water running from the bluffs swells it to a considerable height

-and it is certain there are tremendous storms here. A while after we

-halted, Porter Rockwell came in and said he had been on the high bluff

-about a mile northwest of us and had seen the rock called Chimney Rock

-which appeared a long distance off. We have been in hopes to come in

-sight of it today and feel anxious in order to ascertain more certainly

-the correctness of Fremont's distance. In order to satisfy myself,

-although my feet were blistered and very sore, I determined to take my

-telescope and go on the bluff to ascertain for myself whether the noted

-rock could be seen or not. At half past twelve I started out alone. I

-found the distance to the foot of the bluff a good mile, the ascent

-gradual. From the foot the bluff looks very high and rough, many huge

-rocks having broken from the summit from time to time and rolled down a

-long distance. I found the ascent very steep and lengthy in comparison

-to its appearance from camp. When I arrived on the top I found a nice

-slightly arched surface of about a quarter of an acre in extent, but

-barren and very little grass on it. Huge comparatively smooth rocks

-peeped through the surface on one of which I wrote with red chalk:

-"Wm. Clayton. May 22, 1847." On the highest point I sat down and took

-a view of the surrounding country which is magnificent indeed. On the

-south at the distance of two miles from the river, there is a range of

-cedar trees on the bluffs which very much resemble some of the parks

-and seats of gentry in England. East I could see where we camped last

-night, the high grass still burning. Northeast, north, and northwest,

-alternately, appeared high swelling bluffs and valleys as far as the

-eye could see or the glass magnify. West, the course of the Platte for

-ten or fifteen miles and at about four or five miles distance, a large

-bend to the north brings it in contact with the bluffs on this side.

-At the distance, I should judge of about twenty miles, I could see

-Chimney Rock very plainly with the naked eye, which from here very much

-resembles the large factory chimneys in England, although I could not

-see the form of its base. The rock lay about due west from here. After

-gratifying my curiosity, and seeing the men collecting their teams

-for a march, I descended on the west side of the bluff. The descent

-at this point looks more alarming than on the other. The side being

-very steep and all along huge rocks standing so critically, that to

-all appearance, a waft of wind would precipitate them to the prairie

-below with tremendous force. In one place in particular, a ponderous

-mass of rock appears to hang from the edge of the bluff without any

-visible means of being retained in its position, and by gazing at it

-a little while, it is easy to imagine you can see it move and ready

-to overwhelm you instantly. At a little distance from the base of the

-bluff, I turned to gaze on the romantic scenery above and was struck at

-the appearance of a large rock projecting from one corner, which very

-much resembled a frog's head of immense size with its mouth part open.

-The thought was, those bluffs ought to be named and what name more

-appropriate than Frog's Head Bluffs. After this reflection, I walked on

-to where I thought the wagons would come which started out at half past

-one. After traveling three and a quarter miles we crossed a dry creek

-about six rods wide, and a quarter of a mile farther, another about

-five feet wide and a half a mile farther, still another about six rods

-wide on an average. These all appear to be the sources of heavy streams

-of water at some seasons of the year. Soon as we crossed this last

-one, I saw Elder Kimball wave his hat for the wagons to turn off to

-the north in order to cross the bluffs which struck the river a little

-farther. But a little to the west was a very high ridge and I concluded

-to walk on to it. Found it to be a perfect ridge of gravel, very high

-and rounding on the top, not more than four or five feet wide and from

-north to south about 150 feet long. Elder Pratt names this Cobble

-Hills, the gravel or cobbles varying in size of from fifty pounds in

-weight to the smallest pebble. At the north foot of this hill is what

-might be named a clay bank, being composed of a light colored kind of

-sandy clay and forms a kind of large table. A little distance farther,

-we crossed another dry creek about eight rods wide and then ascended

-the bluffs. The ascent is pretty steep for nearly half a mile, but

-hard and not difficult to travel. The wagon had to wind about some to

-keep around the foot of the bluffs, crossing the dry creek three times

-before we emerged from the bluffs to the banks of the river. We crossed

-another dry creek pretty steep on each side and then found ourselves

-once more on the prairie bottom. The bluffs are two and a quarter

-miles from the east to the west foot following our trail. The wind has

-blown from the southeast all day until lately, when a dead calm has

-succeeded. In the west a heavy thunder cloud has been gathering for

-two hours and vivid streaks of lightning observed in the distance. At

-twenty minutes to five the wind struck suddenly from the northwest, the

-blackest part of the cloud then lying in that direction. We had a few

-drops of rain only. Then it seemed to turn off to the east. The scenery

-after this was indeed sublime, the sun peering out from under the heavy

-clouds reflecting long rays upwards which were imitated in the east.

-The romantic bluffs on the north and the lightning playing in the

-southeast all tended to fill my mind with pleasant reflections, on the

-goodness and majesty of the Creator and Governor of the universe, and

-the beauty of the works of his hands. At 5:45 we formed our encampment

-in a circle within a quarter of a mile of the banks of the river,

-having traveled this afternoon, eight and a quarter miles and through

-the day fifteen and a half, making the distance from Winter Quarters

-440 miles in five weeks and three and a half days. The feed on the

-lower bench of the prairie is tolerably good, while the higher land is

-quite bare. We have noticed today a great many petrified bones, some

-very large. All are turned into solid, hard stone, which proves that

-the atmosphere is pure and the country would doubtless be healthy, but

-is not adapted for farming purposes on account of the poor sandy soil

-and no timber at all on this side the river. I have noticed a variety

-of shrubs, plants and flowers all new to me today, many of which have

-a very pleasant smell and in some places the air appears impregnated

-with the rich odors arising from them. Among the rest are numerous

-beds of the southern wood. There are also vast beds of flinty pebbles

-of various colors, some as white as alabaster. About 6:30 I observed a

-group of brethren standing together inside the camp. I went up and saw

-a young eagle which had been taken out of its nest on one of these high

-bluffs by George R. Grant and Orson Whitney. Although it is very young

-and its feathers have scarcely commenced growing, it measures from the

-tips of its wings when stretched, forty-six inches. Its head is nearly

-the size of my fist and looks very ferocious. After this I went with

-John Pack and Horace Whitney to the bluffs. On our way we saw a large

-wolf about as large as the largest dog in camp. He was within a quarter

-of a mile from camp. After traveling about a mile we arrived at the

-foot of a stupendous mass of rocks almost perpendicular, with only one

-place where it was possible to ascend. We went up with difficulty and

-by using our hands and knees, gained the top. We had to walk over a

-little space which was only about three feet wide and on the east side

-a perpendicular fall of about sixty feet. Although from the camp this

-peak looks only large enough for a man to stand upon we found it large

-enough to seat comfortably about twenty persons. The top is composed of

-large rocks and very uneven. The prairie below looks a long distance

-under foot from this peak. Descending we viewed the surrounding scenery

-which looks more like the ruins of an ancient city with its castles,

-towers, fortifications, etc., on all sides, and a dry stream coming

-through the center. We proceeded to the next high rock and found it

-very difficult of ascent. The top is nearly level and very pleasant. We

-discovered several other varieties of shrubbery, all smelling pleasant

-and strong. We saw that a horse has sometime stood on the top, but how

-he got there, we could not easily determine. At the east end there is

-a cedar tree flat on the top and on the underside almost looks like an

-umbrella. We made a calculation of the height of this bluff as well as

-we could and concluded it must be at least 200 feet higher than the

-river. The surrounding country can be seen for many miles from its

-summit, and Chimney Rock shows very plainly. We descended at the east

-end and arrived in camp at dark well satisfied with our journey. Some

-of the brethren have discovered a cave in one of these bluffs, and one

-went into it a little distance, but it being very dark and having no

-torch, he did not venture far. Elder Pratt reports that he saw on the

-top of one of the bluffs, a hole in a rock 15 inches in diameter and a

-foot deep with five inches of very cold good water in it. He supposed

-it to be a spring. Between the bluffs they also discovered a spring of

-pure cold water of a very good taste. Dr. Richards names these bluffs

-"Bluff Ruins" from their appearance being that of the ruins of castles,

-cities, etc. A little to the left is a small perpendicular rock much

-resembling Chimney Rock but smaller. The whole of the scenery around

-is one of romantic beauty which cannot be described with either pen or

-tongue. Last night a large black dog, half wolf, supposed to belong to

-the Indians, came to the camp. He has kept within two hundred yards of

-the wagons all day, and has followed us to this place. There have been

-many rattlesnakes seen today and six or seven killed. In fact, this

-place seems to abound with them. The evening was spent very joyfully by

-most of the brethren, it being very pleasant and moonlight. A number

-danced till the bugle sounded for bed time at nine o'clock. A mock

-trial was also prosecuted in the case of the camp vs. James Davenport

-for blockading the highway and turning ladies out of their course.

-Jackson Redding acted as the presiding judge. Elder Whipple attorney

-for defendant and Luke Johnson attorney for the people. We have many

-such trials in the camp which are amusing enough and tend among other

-things to pass away the time cheerfully during leisure moments. It was

-remarked this evening that we have one man in camp who is entitled to

-the credit of being more even tempered than any of the others, and that

-is Father Chamberlain. He is invariably cross and quarrelsome, but the

-brethren all take it as a joke and he makes considerable amusement for

-the camp. Opposite the encampment there are quite a number of small

-islands, but no timber on any of them.

-

-Sunday, May 23

-

-The morning very fine and pleasant. Brother Egan commenced washing

-very early on the banks of the river. He kindly volunteered to wash my

-dirty clothing which I accepted as a favor. After breakfast President

-Young, Elders Kimball, Richards, Pratt, Woodruff, Smith and Benson and

-Lyman walked out to view Bluff Ruins and returned at half past eleven.

-A while ago I went out a little distance to view an adder which George

-Billings had discovered. It was a dark brown color about 18 inches

-long and three quarters of an inch thick through the body. They are

-represented as very poisonous. About eleven o'clock Nathaniel Fairbanks

-came into camp having been bitten in the leg by a rattlesnake. He went

-on the bluffs with Aaron Farr and Brother Rolf and as they jumped off

-from the bluff, the snake bit him, the others having jumped over him

-farther. He said that in two minutes after he was bitten his tongue

-began to prick and feel numb. When he got to camp his tongue and

-hands pricked and felt numb as a person feels their feet sometimes

-when they are said to be asleep. The brethren immediately applied

-some tobacco juice and leaves, also turpentine, and bound tobacco on

-his leg which was considerably swollen. We laid hands on him and Luke

-Johnson administered a dose of lobelia in number six after he had taken

-a strong drink of alcohol and water. The lobelia soon vomitted him

-powerfully. He complains much of sickness at his stomach and dimness

-in his eyes. He appears to be in much pain. While the brethren of the

-quorum of the twelve were on one of the high detached bluffs they found

-the skeleton of a buffalo's head. Brother Woodruff wrote the names of

-all the quorum of the twelve present and set it upon the southwest

-corner of the bluff. John Brown also wrote his name on it. Elder Pratt

-took the altitude of the bluff and found it to be 235 feet above the

-surface of the river. He did not calculate the height above the sea,

-owing to the state of the atmosphere. He, however, predicted wind from

-the same cause. At twelve o'clock the camp was called together for

-meeting, and after singing and praying we were addressed by Elder Snow,

-followed by President Young. The latter said there were many items of

-doctrine which he often felt like teaching to the brethren, but as

-to administering sealing ordinances, etc., this is no time or place

-for them, they belong to the house of God and when we get located we

-shall have an opportunity to build a house, etc. He expressed himself

-satisfied with the conduct of the camp in general. He is pleased to

-see so much union and disposition to obey council among the brethren

-and hoped and prayed that it may continue and increase. He wants the

-brethren to seek after knowledge and be faithful to acknowledge God in

-all things but never take his name in vain nor use profane language.

-If all the knowledge in this camp were put together and brother Joseph

-were here in our midst, he could comprehend the whole of it and wind it

-around his little finger. And then think of the knowledge of angels,

-and above that, the knowledge of the Lord. There is much for us to

-learn and a faithful man who desires eternal glory will seek after

-knowledge all the time and his ideas never suffered to rust but are

-always bright. He will not throw away the knowledge of small things

-because they are familiar, but grasp all he can and keep doing so and

-by retaining many small things he will thus gain a large pile, etc.

-He expressed his feelings warmly towards all the brethren and prayed

-them to be faithful, diligent and upright, for we are now sowing seed,

-the fruit of which will be plucked in after days whether good or

-bad. G. A. Smith made a few remarks, also several others of the

-brethren. The president then stated that on Sunday next he wants the

-brethren to understand that there will be meeting at eleven o'clock and

-the sacrament administered, and he wants the brethren to attend, all

-that can, and not ramble off and fatigue themselves but use the Sabbath

-as a day of rest. He enjoined it upon Bishops T. Lewis, S. Roundy,

-J. S. Higbee and A. Everett to see that the proper necessities

-were prepared for the sacrament. The meeting was then dismissed. A

-while after meeting I walked out with Elder Kimball a piece from

-the camp. We sat down and I read to him my journal of the last four

-days, with which he seemed well pleased. We then knelt down together

-and poured out our souls to God for ourselves, the camp and our dear

-families in Winter Quarters. While we were engaged in prayer the wind

-rose suddenly from the northwest, a heavy cloud having been gathering

-from the west all the afternoon. A sudden gust struck Elder Kimball's

-hat and carried it off. After we got through, his hat was nowhere in

-sight, but following the direction of the wind we soon saw it at a

-distance on the bottom of the prairie still flying swiftly. We both ran

-and chased it about three quarters of a mile and caught it a little

-from the river. While we were out together I remarked that the buffalo

-gnat had bitten us very severely. Elder Kimball said they bit him very

-badly last evening. Their bite is very poisonous, and although they

-are extremely small, they punish a person very much with an itching,

-aching pain like a mosquito bite. About five o'clock the wind blew a

-perfect gale and continued till seven when it commenced to rain very

-heavily, large drops descending, accompanied with hail, which however,

-did not continue very long but the wind continued nearly all night.

-The lightning and thunder continued some time but not very severe. We

-saw the necessity of having good stout bows to our wagons, and the

-covers well fastened down, for the very stoutest seemed in danger of

-being torn to pieces and the wagons blown over. When the wind commenced

-blowing so strongly it turned very cold and long before dark I went to

-bed to keep warm. Brother Fairbanks seems considerably better. This

-evening President Young, Kimball and Benson laid hands on him and he

-seemed much better afterwards.

-

-Monday, May 24

-

-The morning very cold indeed, strong wind from northwest. At 8:25 we

-continued our journey and traveled over level prairie ten miles, then

-halted to feed at 12:45. The bluffs on the north about two miles from

-us and the river one mile. About noon the weather began to moderate

-and grow warmer. While we were resting two Indians came to camp, their

-object evidently being to get the dog which has followed us to this

-place. They tarried a little while and then went away taking the dog

-with them. At 3:00 p.m., we again proceeded and traveled till 6:00

-p.m., distance six and a half miles, during the day 161/2. Several of

-the horse teams gave out and they are evidently failing but the oxen

-are gaining daily. The mules stand the journey well and in fact all

-the teams, considering the scarcity of grass. About 5:30 we discovered

-a party of Indians on the opposite side the river moving west. When

-we formed our encampment they crossed over the river. Some of the

-brethren went to meet them carrying a white flag with them. When the

-Indians saw the flag, some of them began to sing, and their chief held

-up a U. S. flag. It was soon ascertained that their object was to

-obtain something to eat. A number of them came to the camp and were

-conducted around by Colonels Markham and Rockwood. They were shown a

-six and fifteen shooter also the cannon and the gunners went through

-the evolutions a number of times which seemed to please them much.

-They are all well dressed and very noble looking, some having good

-clean blankets, others nice robes artfully ornamented with beads and

-paintings. All had many ornaments on their clothing and ears, some had

-nice painted shells suspended from the ear. All appeared to be well

-armed with muskets. Their moccasins were indeed clean and beautiful.

-One had a pair of moccasins of a clear white, ornamented with beads,

-etc. They fit very tight to the foot. For cleanness and neatness,

-they will vie with the most tasteful whites. They are thirty-five

-in number, about half squaws and children. They are Sioux and have

-two recommends certifying as to their friendship, etc. The brethren

-contributed something to eat which was sent to them. Our course today

-has been nearly west, with a cool wind. The evening fine but cold

-enough to freeze clothing stiff when laid on the grass to dry. Elder

-Kimball has been quite unwell all day and mostly kept to his wagon.

-Opposite the camp on the south side the river is a very large rock very

-much resembling a castle of four stories high, but in a state of ruin.

-A little to the east a rock stands which looks like a fragment of a

-very thick wall. A few miles to the west Chimney Rock appears in full

-view. The scenery around is pleasant and romantic. After the Indians

-had viewed the camp, they returned to their horses and the rest of the

-party who have camped on the banks of the river about a quarter of

-a mile west of us. Elder Sherwood returned with them and soon after

-came back accompanied by the chief and his squaw who signified a wish

-to abide with our camp tonight. The brethren fixed up a tent for them

-to sleep under; Porter Rockwell made them some coffee, and they were

-furnished with some victuals. The old chief amused himself very much by

-looking at the moon through a telescope for as much as twenty minutes.

-Brother Fairbanks is much better this evening. Last night Luke Johnson

-discovered a very large petrified bone in the neighborhood of the

-bluffs as much as two feet wide, but he could not ascertain the length

-of it. After laboring sometime ineffectually to dig it up, he broke off

-two pieces and brought them to camp. They are very white and hard. It

-is now eleven o'clock. I have been writing in Elder Kimball's journal

-since dark, and have but little chance to write as much as I want in

-my own and his both, but I feel determined to do all I can to keep a

-journal of this expedition which will be interesting to my children

-in after days, and perhaps to many of the Saints. The evening is very

-fine but cool and I retire to rest with the feeling: "God bless my dear

-family."

-

-Tuesday, May 25

-

-The morning fine and very pleasant. Most of the Indians, men, women

-and children came early to camp on their ponies and marched around

-mostly trying to obtain something to eat. Several little barters were

-made with them for moccasins, skins, etc. John S. Higbee traded ponies

-with one of them. They have some good ponies and some inferior ones,

-but both male and females are neatly dressed and very tidy. They look

-cheerful and pleased to witness the camp, etc. At 8:20 we proceeded

-onward. After we started, the Indians left us and went over the river.

-One mile from where we started, we began to ascend a low range of

-bluffs to avoid a large, high sandy ridge which projects to the river.

-We traveled three quarters of a mile and descended again to the level

-prairie. At 9:40 we halted to let the cattle and teams graze, the feed

-being good and plentiful, having traveled two and a half miles, mostly

-northwest around a bend of the river. The sun is very hot, the roads

-sandy and hard teaming. The river is probably three quarters of a mile

-wide here and on this side there are many small islands. At 11:15

-continued our journey and traveled till half past one, distance four

-and three quarters miles over a very soft, wet, level prairie. We then

-halted to feed and rest our teams, as they have been hard drawn nearly

-all day. We have seen no game for several days except a few antelope

-and hares. The buffalo appear to have left this region and in fact

-there are little signs of many having been here. The feed is poor,

-mostly last year's growth and very short. One of the hunters killed

-an antelope, which was brought to camp and divided to the captains of

-tens. At 3:00 p.m. we started again and traveled till a quarter to

-six, distance four and three quarters miles, and during the day twelve

-miles. For three miles of the first of this afternoon we had a good

-road, but the last part has been very wet and soft, numerous ponds

-of water standing all around caused by heavy rains. We have camped

-on a very wet spot, but the feed being poor where it was drier, it

-was decided to stay for the benefit of the teams. Our course has been

-about northwest, very little wind and the day very warm. Chimney Rock

-shows very plain and appears not more than two miles distance but is no

-doubt five miles distance or over. Another antelope has been killed and

-brought in by the hunters. Elder Orson Pratt is taking an observation

-to ascertain the height of Chimney Rock. The evening was very pleasant

-and the brethren passed away their time till after nine o'clock

-dancing. Porter Rockwell shot the two antelope spoken of above. He also

-shot two wolves. Latitude six and a quarter miles back, 41 deg. 41' 46".

-

-Wednesday, May 26

-

-The morning very fine and pleasant. I have spent the morning working

-on Dr. Richards' map. At eight o'clock continued on our journey. Elder

-Pratt taking observations to tell the distance our road lies from

-Chimney Rock. Yesterday morning Stephen Markham traded a mule which was

-foundered and unable to work to one of the Indians for a pony. They put

-him in the harness a little towards evening and again this morning.

-When crossing a very soft place the whipple tree unhitched and struck

-against his heels. He ran full gallop towards the head teams and twice

-through the line of wagons causing several teams, horses and oxen both,

-to spring from the road and run some distance before the men could

-stop them. After running nearly a mile some of the brethren caught

-the pony, brought him back and put him to the wagon again without any

-accident, except a little injury to the harness. After traveling four

-and five-eighths miles, we arrived at a point directly north of Chimney

-Rock which we ascertained by the compass, having traveled since it

-was first discovered 411/2 miles. We proceeded till twelve o'clock and

-halted to feed, having traveled seven and a quarter miles, a northwest

-course, the road very straight and hard excepting a few spots where the

-water stands caused by late heavy rains. We turned south a little to

-get to grass as the higher prairie is barren, and scarcely any grass on

-it. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope and John Brown one which

-were brought into camp and are being divided amongst the companies as

-usual. Elder Pratt found that Chimney Rock is 260 feet high from its

-base to its summit and the distance from our road at the nearest point

-three miles. The latitude at noon halt 41 deg. 45' 58". At 2:25 resumed our

-journey making our road nearer the river than this morning. The road

-somewhat crooked but good traveling. After traveling five miles, turned

-directly south to avoid a bad slough and went a quarter of a mile and

-then formed our encampment at five o'clock on the banks of the river.

-The last quarter of a mile was not reckoned in the day's travel which

-exclusive of that is 121/4 miles, course north of northwest. The feed

-here is good and sufficient to fill our teams well. Joseph Hancock

-killed an antelope which was brought into camp and distributed. Soon

-after we camped, walked out to the bank of the river with Presidents

-Young and Kimball to read to them some of the minutes of the old

-council. We were joined by Dr. Richards and tarried till seven o'clock,

-at which time a heavy black cloud was fast approaching from the west

-and was soon followed by a strong wind and a little rain which lasted

-only a short time. The evening afterwards warm and pleasant though

-somewhat cloudy. Carloss Murray has been trying to rear the young eagle

-caught on Saturday. After stopping tonight, he put it under a wagon and

-a while afterwards the men ran the wagon back, one of the wheels ran

-over its head and killed it. I wrote in Heber's journal till half past

-ten and then went to rest.

-

-Thursday, May 27

-

-The morning very fine. We have seen a number of romantic spots on our

-journey, but I consider our view this morning more sublime than any

-other. Chimney Rock lies southeast, opposite detached bluffs of various

-shapes and sizes. To the southwest, Scott's Bluffs look majestic and

-sublime. The prairie over which our route lies is very level and green

-as far as we can see. The bluffs on the north low, and about three

-miles distant. The scenery is truly delightful beyond imagination. I

-have finished making Dr. Richards' map to Chimney Rock. Elder Pratt

-has measured the width of the river at this place by the sextant and

-found it to be exactly 792 yards. At ten minutes to eight we continued

-our journey and traveled near the banks of the river till 11:45, being

-eight miles. The route very good, hard and good traveling, although

-a little crooked. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope and Amasa

-Lyman one, which were brought to the wagons and distributed. There

-are some heavy thunder clouds in the south and west and a nice breeze

-from northeast. At two o'clock we continued our journey over the same

-kind of dry level prairie, keeping not far distant from the banks of

-the river and making a straight road. At the distance of four and an

-eighth miles passed the meridian of the northernmost peak of Scott's

-Bluffs being 193/4 miles from the meridian of Chimney Rock. These bluffs

-are very high, steep, and broken like many others, resembling ancient

-ruins. They are probably two miles from north to south extremity, but

-not very wide. We traveled till 4:45 and formed our encampment in a

-circle near the banks of the river which from this place seems to bend

-for some distance to the north, having traveled this afternoon five and

-three quarters miles and during the day thirteen and three quarters,

-mostly northwest. Elders Kimball and Woodruff pointed out the road

-this forenoon. Afternoon Elder Kimball rode with me in Johnson's wagon

-while I read some of his journal to him. The evening is very cold, wind

-northeast, and raining some. Feed is good and the camp generally well.

-Another antelope was brought in by the hunters. The latitude of the

-northernmost peak of Scott's Bluffs 41 deg. 50' 52".

-

-Friday, May 28

-

-The morning cool, damp, cloudy and some rain. Wind northeast. At about

-eight o'clock the brethren were called together and the question

-asked: shall we go on in the rain or wait until it is fair? All agreed

-to stay until it was fair. I went to writing in Heber's journal and

-wrote till nearly eleven o'clock. Elder Kimball came to the next wagon

-where some of the boys were playing cards. He told them his views and

-disapprobation of their spending time gaming and dancing and mock

-trying, etc., and especially the profane language frequently uttered

-by some. He reasoned with them on the subject and showed them that it

-would lead from bad to worse if persisted in until the consequences

-would become serious. He exhorted them to be more sober and wise. It

-growing fair, we started out at eleven o'clock, our first four miles

-being north of northwest in consequence of a bend in the river. We

-traveled beside a creek of very clear water about a mile. It rises

-about four miles northwest of where we camped last night and runs in

-a crooked direction till it empties into the river about a mile west

-of the camp. It rises from springs as was proved by Horace Whitney

-who traced it to its source where there is a spring rising out of a

-circular kind of wet swamp about six feet in diameter. The creek is

-about eight feet wide but not deep, the bottom is gravelly. Near where

-it empties into the river, they discovered a number of large spotted

-trout, suckers and dais of a good size. The water tasted very good and

-cold. At the distance of four miles we arrived and traveled at the foot

-of the bluffs, the road sandy and heavy on teams. We soon turned from

-the bluffs on a level barren prairie, hard and good traveling. At nine

-miles descended on a lower bench of prairie where we found it wet and

-soft though not bad rolling. At 4:45 formed our encampment near the

-river, having traveled eleven and a half miles, the last seven a little

-south of west. The feed here is not very good. Driftwood tolerably

-plentiful. We have seen a few small trees on the islands today but

-none on the north bank. Vast quantities of southern wood and prickley

-pear grow on these sandy prairies where there is no grass. The evening

-cloudy and dull with cold northeast wind. While Thomas Brown and Porter

-Rockwell were out hunting about five miles north of here, the former

-saw five or six Indians about a quarter of a mile from him. They also

-saw many new footprints of horses, which shows that there is a hunting

-party near.

-

-Saturday, May 29

-

-The morning cold, wet and cloudy with wind from northeast. We shall not

-travel unless it grows fair and better weather. I spent the morning

-writing in Elder Kimball's journal, but felt very unwell having

-taken cold yesterday and been sick all night. About ten o'clock, the

-weather looked a little better and at half past ten the bugle sounded

-as a signal for the teams to be got together. After the teams were

-harnessed, the brethren were called together to the boat in the circle.

-President Young taking his station in the boat, ordered each captain of

-ten to lead out his respective company and get all his men together. He

-then called on the clerk to call over the names of the camp to see if

-all were present. Joseph Hancock and Andrew Gibbons were reported to

-be absent hunting. Brothers Elijah Newman and Nathaniel Fairbanks were

-confined to their wagons but answered to their names, the remainder all

-present. President Young then addressed the meeting in substance as

-follows:

-

-"I remarked last Sunday that I had not felt much like preaching to the

-brethren on this mission. This morning I feel like preaching a little,

-and shall take for my text, 'That as to pursuing our journey with this

-company with the spirit they possess, I am about to revolt against it.'

-This is the text I feel like preaching on this morning, consequently

-I am in no hurry. In the first place, before we left Winter Quarters,

-it was told to the brethren and many knew it by experience, that we

-had to leave our homes, our houses, our land and our all because we

-believed in the Gospel as revealed to the Saints in these last days.

-The rise of the persecutions against the Church was in consequence of

-the doctrines of eternal truth taught by Joseph. Many knew this by

-experience. Some lost their husbands, some lost their wives, and some

-their children through persecution, and yet we have not been disposed

-to forsake the truth and turn and mingle with the gentiles, except a

-few who have turned aside and gone away from us, and we have learned

-in a measure, the difference between a professor of religion and a

-possessor of religion. Before we left Winter Quarters it was told to

-the brethren that we were going to look out a home for the Saints

-where they would be free from persecution by the gentiles, where we

-could dwell in peace and serve God according to the Holy Priesthood,

-where we could build up the kingdom so that the nations would begin to

-flock to our standard. I have said many things to the brethren about

-the strictness of their walk and conduct when we left the gentiles,

-and told them that we would have to walk upright or the law would be

-put in force, etc. Many have left and turned aside through fear, but

-no good upright, honest man will fear. The Gospel does not bind a good

-man down and deprive him of his rights and privileges. It does not

-prevent him from enjoying the fruits of his labors. It does not rob

-him of blessings. It does not stop his increase. It does not diminish

-his kingdom, but it is calculated to enlarge his kingdom as well as to

-enlarge his heart. It is calculated to give him privileges and power,

-and honor, and exaltation and everything which his heart can desire

-in righteousness all the days of his life, and then, when he gets

-exalted into the eternal world he can still turn around and say it

-hath not entered into the heart of man to conceive the glory and honor

-and blessings which God hath in store for those that love and serve

-Him. I want the brethren to understand and comprehend the principles

-of eternal life, and to watch the spirit, be wide awake and not be

-overcome by the adversary. You can see the fruits of the spirit, but

-you cannot see the spirit itself with the natural eye, you behold it

-not. You can see the result of yielding to the evil spirit and what

-it will lead you to, but you do not see the spirit itself nor its

-operations, only by the spirit that's in you. Nobody has told me what

-has been going on in the camp, but I have known it all the while. I

-have been watching its movements, its influence, its effects, and I

-know the result if it is not put a stop to. I want you to understand

-that inasmuch as we are beyond the power of the gentiles where the

-devil has tabernacles in the priests and the people, we are beyond

-their reach, we are beyond their power. We are beyond their grasp,

-and what has the devil now to work upon? Upon the spirits of men in

-this camp, and if you do not open your hearts so that the Spirit of

-God can enter your hearts and teach you the right way, I know that you

-are a ruined people and will be destroyed and that without remedy,

-and unless there is a change and a different course of conduct, a

-different spirit to what is now in this camp, I go no farther. I am in

-no hurry. Give me the man of prayers, give me the man of faith, give

-me the man of meditation, a sober-minded man, and I would far rather

-go amongst the savages with six or eight such men than to trust myself

-with the whole of this camp with the spirit they now possess. Here is

-an opportunity for every man to prove himself, to know whether he will

-pray and remember his God without being asked to do it every day; to

-know whether he will have confidence enough to ask of God that he may

-receive without my telling him to do it. If this camp was composed of

-men who had newly received the Gospel, men who had not received the

-priesthood, men who had not been through the ordinances in the temple

-and who had not had years of experience, enough to have learned the

-influence of the spirits and the difference between a good and an evil

-spirit, I should feel like preaching to them and watching over them

-and telling them all the time, day by day. But here are the Elders of

-Israel, men who have had years of experience, men who have had the

-priesthood for years--and have they got faith enough to rise up

-and stop a mean, low, groveling, covetous, quarrelsome spirit? No, they

-have not, nor would they try to stop it, unless I rise up in the power

-of God and put it down. I do not mean to bow down to the spirit that

-is in this camp, and which is rankling in the bosoms of the brethren,

-and which will lead to knock downs and perhaps to the use of the knife

-to cut each other's throats if it is not put a stop to. I do not mean

-to bow down to the spirit which causes the brethren to quarrel. When I

-wake up in the morning, the first thing I hear is some of the brethren

-jawing each other and quarreling because a horse has got loose in the

-night. I have let the brethren dance and fiddle and act the nigger

-night after night to see what they will do, and what extremes they

-would go to, if suffered to go as far as they would. I do not love to

-see it. The brethren say they want a little exercise to pass away time

-in the evenings, but if you can't tire yourselves bad enough with a

-day's journey without, dancing every night, carry your guns on your

-shoulders and walk, carry your wood to camp instead of lounging and

-lying asleep in your wagons, increasing the load until your teams are

-tired to death and ready to drop to the earth. Help your teams over

-mud holes and bad places instead of lounging in your wagons and that

-will give you exercise enough without dancing. Well, they will play

-cards, they will play checkers, they will play dominoes, and if they

-had the privilege and were where they could get whiskey, they would

-be drunk half their time, and in one week they would quarrel, get to

-high words and draw their knives to kill each other. This is what such

-a course of things would lead to. Don't you know it? Yes. Well, then,

-why don't you try to put it down? I have played cards once in my life

-since I became a Mormon to see what kind of spirit would attend it,

-and I was so well satisfied, that I would rather see in your hands the

-dirtiest thing you could find on the earth, than a pack of cards. You

-never read of gambling, playing cards, checkers, dominoes, etc., in

-the scriptures, but you do read of men praising the Lord in the dance,

-but who ever read of praising the Lord in a game at cards? If any man

-had sense enough to play a game at cards, or dance a little without

-wanting to keep it up all the time, but exercise a little and then quit

-it and think no more of it, it would do well enough, but you want to

-keep it up till midnight and every night, and all the time. You don't

-know how to control your senses. Last winter when we had our seasons of

-recreation in the council house, I went forth in the dance frequently,

-but did my mind run on it? No! To be sure, when I was dancing, my mind

-was on the dance, but the moment I stopped in the middle or the end

-of a tune, my mind was engaged in prayer and praise to my Heavenly

-Father and whatever I engage in, my mind is on it while engaged in it,

-but the moment I am done with it, my mind is drawn up to my God. The

-devils which inhabit the gentiles' priests are here. The tabernacles

-are not here, we are out of their power, we are beyond their grasp, we

-are beyond the reach of their persecutions, but the devils are here,

-and the first thing you'll know if you don't open your eyes and your

-hearts, they will cause divisions in our camp and perhaps war, as they

-did with the Lamanites as you read in the Book of Mormon. Do we suppose

-that we are going to look out a home for the Saints, a resting place, a

-place of peace where they can build up the kingdom and bid the nations

-welcome, with a low, mean, dirty, trifling, covetous, wicked spirit

-dwelling in our bosoms? It is vain! vain! Some of you are very fond of

-passing jokes, and will carry your jokes very far. But will you take

-a joke? If you do not want to take a joke, don't give a joke to your

-brethren. Joking, nonsense, profane language, trifling conversation and

-loud laughter do not belong to us. Suppose the angels were witnessing

-the hoe down the other evening, and listening to the haw haws the other

-evening, would they not be ashamed of it? I am ashamed of it. I have

-not given a joke to any man on this journey nor felt like it; neither

-have I insulted any man's feelings but I have hollowed pretty loud and

-spoken sharply to the brethren when I have seen their awkwardness at

-coming to camp. The revelations in the Bible, in the Book of Mormon,

-and Doctrine and Covenants, teach us to be sober; and let me ask you

-elders that have been through the ordinances in the temple, what were

-your covenants there? I say you should remember them. When I laugh I

-see my folly and nothingness and weakness and am ashamed of myself. I

-think meaner and worse of myself than any man can think of me; but I

-delight in God, and in His commandments and delight to meditate on Him

-and to serve Him and I mean that everything in me shall be subjected

-to Him. Now let every man repent of his weakness, of his follies, of

-his meanness, and every kind of wickedness, and stop your swearing and

-profane language, for it is in this camp and I know it, and have known

-it. I have said nothing about it, but I now tell you, if you don't stop

-it you shall be cursed by the Almighty and shall dwindle away and be

-damned. Such things shall not be suffered in this camp. You shall honor

-God, and confess His name or else you shall suffer the penalty. Most

-of this camp belong to the Church, nearly all; and I would say to you

-brethren, and to the Elders of Israel, if you are faithful, you will

-yet be sent to preach this Gospel to the nations of the earth and bid

-all welcome whether they believe the Gospel or not, and this kingdom

-will reign over many who do not belong to the Church, over thousands

-who do not believe in the Gospel. Bye and bye every knee shall bow and

-every tongue confess and acknowledge and reverence and honor the name

-of God and His priesthood and observe the laws of the kingdom whether

-they belong to the Church and obey the Gospel or not, and I mean that

-every man in this camp shall do it. That is what the scripture means by

-every knee shall bow, etc., and you cannot make anything else out of

-it. I understand there are several in this camp who do not belong to

-the Church. I am the man who will stand up for them and protect them in

-all their rights. And they shall not trample on our rights nor on the

-priesthood. They shall reverence and acknowledge the name of God and

-His priesthood, and if they set up their heads and seek to introduce

-iniquity into this camp and to trample on the priesthood, I swear to

-them, they shall never go back to tell the tale. I will leave them

-where they will be safe. If they want to retreat they can now have the

-privilege, and any man who chooses to go back rather than abide the law

-of God can now have the privilege of doing so before we go any farther.

-Here are the Elders of Israel who have the priesthood, who have got

-to preach the Gospel, who have to gather the nations of the earth,

-who have to build up the kingdom so that the nations can come to it,

-they will stop to dance as niggers. I don't mean this as debasing the

-negroes by any means; they will hoe down all, turn summersets, dance on

-their knees, and haw, haw, out loud; they will play cards, they will

-play checkers and dominoes, they will use profane language, they will

-swear! Suppose when you go to preach, the people should ask you what

-you did when you went on this mission to seek out a home for the whole

-Church, what was your course of conduct? Did you dance? Yes. Did you

-hoe down all? Yes. Did you play cards? Yes. Did you play checkers? Yes.

-Did you use profane language? Yes. Did you swear? Yes. Did you quarrel

-with each other and threaten each other? Why yes. How would you feel?

-What would you say for yourselves? Would you not want to go and hide

-up? Your mouths would be stopped and you would want to creep away in

-disgrace. I am one of the last to ask my brethren to enter into solemn

-covenants, but if they will not enter into a covenant to put away their

-iniquity and turn to the Lord and serve Him and acknowledge and honor

-His name, I want them to take their wagons and retreat back, for I

-shall go no farther under such a state of things. If we don't repent

-and quit our wickedness we will have more hinderances than we have

-had, and worse storms to encounter. I want the brethren to be ready

-for meeting tomorrow at the time appointed, instead of rambling off,

-and hiding in their wagons to play cards, etc. I think it will be good

-for us to have a fast meeting tomorrow and a prayer meeting to humble

-ourselves and turn to the Lord and he will forgive us."

-

-He then called upon all the High Priests to step forth in a line in

-front of the wagon and then the bishops to step in front of the High

-Priests, which being done, he counted them and found their number to

-be four bishops and fifteen high priests. He then called upon all the

-seventies to form a line in the rear of the high priests. On being

-counted, they were ascertained to number seventy-eight. Next he called

-on the elders to form a line in the rear of the wagon. They were eight

-in number. There were also eight of the quorum of the twelve. He then

-asked the brethren of the quorum of the twelve if they were willing to

-covenant, to turn to the Lord with all their hearts, to repent of all

-their follies, to cease from all their evils and serve God according

-to His laws. If they were willing, to manifest it by holding up their

-right hand. Every man held up his hand in token that he covenanted. He

-then put the same question to the high priests and bishops; next to the

-seventies, and then to the elders, and lastly to the other brethren.

-All covenanted with uplifted hands without a dissenting voice. He then

-addressed those who are not members of the Church and told them they

-should be protected in their rights and privileges while they would

-conduct themselves well and not seek to trample on the priesthood nor

-blaspheme the name of God, etc. He then referred to the conduct of

-Benjamin Rolfe's two younger brothers, in joining with the Higbees and

-John C. Bennett in sowing discord and strife among the Saints in Nauvoo

-and remarked that there will be no more Bennett scrapes suffered here.

-He spoke highly of Benjamin Rolfe's conduct, although not a member of

-the Church and also referred to the esteem in which his father and

-mother were held by the Saints generally. He then very tenderly blessed

-the brethren and prayed that God would enable them to fulfill their

-covenants and then withdrew to give opportunity for others to speak

-if they felt like it. Elder Kimball arose to say that he agreed with

-all that President Young had said. He receives it as the word of the

-Lord to him and it is the word of the Lord to this camp if they will

-receive it. He has been watching the motion of things and the conduct

-of the brethren for some time and has seen what it would lead to. He

-has said little but thought a great deal. It has made him shudder

-when he has seen the Elders of Israel descend to the lowest, dirtiest

-things imaginable, the tail end of everything, but what has passed this

-morning will make it an everlasting blessing to the brethren, if they

-will repent and be faithful and keep their covenant. He never can rest

-satisfied until his family is liberated from the gentiles and their

-company and established in a land where they can plant and reap the

-fruits of their labors, but he has never had the privilege of eating

-the fruits of his labors yet, neither has his family, but when this is

-done he can sleep in peace if necessary but not till then. If we will

-serve the Lord, remember His name to call upon Him, and be faithful, we

-shall not one of us be left under the sod, but shall be permitted to

-return and meet our families in peace and enjoy their society again;

-but if this camp continues the course of conduct it has done, the

-judgment of God will overtake us. He hopes the brethren will take heed

-to what President Young has said and let it sink deep in their hearts.

-

-Elder Pratt wanted to add a word to what has been said. "Much good

-advice has been given to teach us how we may spend our time profitably

-by prayer, and meditation, etc." But there is another idea which

-he wants to add. "There are many books in the camp and worlds of

-knowledge before us which we have not obtained, and if the brethren

-would devote all their leisure time to seeking after knowledge, they

-would never need to say they had nothing with which to pass away their

-time. If we could spend 23 hours out of the 24 in gaining knowledge

-and only sleep one hour of the 24 all the days of our life, there

-would still be worlds of knowledge in store for us yet to learn. He

-knows it is difficult to bring our minds to diligent and constant

-studies, in pursuit of knowledge all at once, but by steady practice

-and perseverance we shall become habituated to it, and it will become a

-pleasure to us. He would recommend to the brethren, besides prayer, and

-obedience, to seek after knowledge continually. And it will help us to

-overcome our follies and nonsense; we shall have no time for it.

-

-Elder Woodruff said he remembered the time when the camp went up to

-Missouri to redeem Zion, when Brother Joseph stood up on a wagon wheel

-and told the brethren that the decree had passed and could not be

-revoked, and the destroying angel would visit the camp and we should

-die like sheep with the rot. He had repeatedly warned the brethren of

-their evil conduct and what it would lead to, but they still continued

-in their course. It was not long before the destroying angel did visit

-the camp and the brethren began to fall as Brother Joseph had said. We

-buried eighteen in a short time and a more sorrowful time I never saw.

-There are nine here who were in that camp and they all recollect the

-circumstance well and will never forget it. He has been thinking while

-the President was speaking, that if he was one who had played checkers

-or cards, he would take every pack of cards and every checker board and

-burn them up so that they would no longer be in the way to tempt us.

-

-Colonel Markham acknowledged that he had done wrong in many things.

-He had always indulged himself, before he came into the Church, with

-everything he desired and he knows he has done wrong on this journey,

-he knows his mind has become darkened since he left Winter Quarters.

-He hopes the brethren will forgive him and he will pray to be forgiven

-and try to do better. While he was speaking he was very much affected

-indeed and wept like a child. Many of the brethren felt much affected

-and all seemed to realize for the first time, the excess to which they

-had yielded and the awful consequence of such things if persisted in.

-Many were in tears and felt humbled. President Young returned to the

-boat as Brother Markham closed his remarks and said in reply, that he

-knew the brethren would forgive him, and the Lord will forgive us all

-if we turn to Him with all our hearts and cease to do evil. The meeting

-was then dismissed, each man retiring to his wagon. And being half past

-one o'clock we again pursued our journey in peace, all reflecting on

-what has passed today, and many expressing their gratitude for what

-has transpired. It seemed as though we were just commencing on this

-important mission, and all realizing the responsibility resting upon

-us to conduct ourselves in such a manner that the journey may be an

-everlasting blessing to us, instead of an everlasting disgrace. No loud

-laughter was heard, no swearing, no quarreling, no profane language, no

-hard speeches to man or beast, and it truly seemed as though the cloud

-had burst and we had emerged into a new element, a new atmosphere, and

-a new society. We traveled six and three quarters miles about a north

-of northwest course and then arrived at the foot of the low bluffs

-which extend within about ten rods of the river, the latter forming a

-large bend northward at this point. At the foot of the bluffs the road

-was sandy and very heavy on our teams. Like all other sandy places,

-it was perfectly barren, being only a tuft of grass here and there.

-After passing over the sand we changed our course to a little north of

-west, not, however, leaving the bluffs very far. The river bends again

-to the south. We then found the ground hard and good to travel over,

-but perfectly bare of grass for upwards of a mile. At five o'clock it

-commenced raining very hard accompanied by lightning and thunder and

-strong northeast wind. It also changed considerably cooler again. At

-five thirty o'clock we formed our encampment on the edge of the higher

-bench of prairie. The feed is tolerably good on the bottom but here

-there is none at all. We have passed a small grove of fair sized trees,

-all green, growing on the islands in the river which are tolerably many

-near here, but there is no timber yet on this side of the river. The

-brethren pick up drift wood enough to do their cooking. I spent the

-evening writing in this journal till half past twelve o'clock, but felt

-quite unwell. The distance we have traveled today is eight and a half

-miles, during the week seventy-four and a half, making us 5141/2 miles

-from Winter Quarters. There is a creek of clear water about 200 yards

-to the south from which the camp obtains what they want.

-

-Sunday, May 30

-

-The morning fair and somewhat more pleasant, although there is yet

-appearance for more rain. I felt quite unwell through the night and

-also this morning, having severe pain. At nine o'clock most of the

-brethren retired a little south of the camp and had a prayer meeting,

-and as many as chose to, expressed their feelings. At a little before

-twelve they met again in the same spot to partake of the sacrament.

-Soon afterwards all the members of the council of the K. of G. in the

-camp, except Brother Thomas Bullock, went onto the bluffs and selecting

-a small, circular, level spot surrounded by bluffs and out of sight,

-we clothed ourselves in the priestly garments and offered up prayer to

-God for ourselves, this camp and all pertaining to it, the brethren

-in the army, our families and all the Saints, President Young being

-mouth. We all felt well and glad for this privilege. The members of the

-above council are Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, Willard Richards,

-Orson Pratt, George A. Smith, Wilford Woodruff, Amasa Lyman, Ezra T.

-Benson, Phineas H. Young, John Pack, Charles Shumway, Shadrack Roundy,

-Albert P. Rockwood, Erastus Snow, myself, Albert Carrington and Porter

-Rockwell. The two latter, having no clothing with them, stood guard

-at a little distance from us to prevent interruption. When we started

-for the bluffs, there was a heavy black thunder cloud rising from

-the southwest, and from all appearance it might rain any minute, but

-the brethren believed it would not rain till we got through and if

-it did we chose rather to take a wetting than to be disappointed of

-the privilege. It kept off remarkably till we got through and got our

-clothing on, but soon after it began to rain and after we got to camp

-it rained considerably, accompanied by strong wind. I never noticed

-the brethren so still and sober on a Sunday since we started as today.

-There is no jesting nor laughing, nor nonsense. All appear to be sober

-and feel to remember their covenant which makes things look far more

-pleasant than they have done heretofore. I spent most of the afternoon

-in Elder Kimball's wagon with Elder Kimball, President Young, Lorenzo

-and Phineas Young. Read the minutes of President Young's discourse of

-yesterday. About five o'clock President Young, Kimball, Benson and

-others walked out together to the bluffs. They invited me to go with

-them but I was so afflicted with cramps I could scarcely walk, and

-after drinking a cup of tea prepared by Ellen Sanders I went to my

-wagon and retired to bed early. The evening more pleasant with a light

-shower occasionally. Elder Kimball, President Young, and others saw the

-Black Hills in the distance from a high bluff.

-

-Monday, May 31

-

-The morning fine but cool. I feel quite unwell yet and have been sick

-all night. At a quarter past eight we proceeded onward, found good

-level traveling, the day cool and pleasant. We soon struck a wagon

-trail which evidently leads direct to Fort Laramie. At four miles,

-passed some high sandy bluffs. Traveled till after twelve and then

-turned off a little to the southwest and at half past twelve o'clock

-halted for noon at the edge of lower land where there is some short

-green grass for our teams. The land we have traveled over this morning

-is naked and barren, course west of northwest, distance nine and a

-half miles. A high wind from northwest. Latitude 42 deg. 04' 30". Started

-again at 3:00 p.m., weather warm and wind ceased. At 6:45 p.m. formed

-our encampment on the east bank of a shoal stream about ten feet wide,

-having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter miles, and during

-the day sixteen and three quarters. Our course this afternoon a little

-north of west. About four miles back, passed some timber on this side

-of the river which is the first since the 10th inst, being a distance

-of 215 miles without wood for fire, except driftwood, and much of the

-time nothing but buffalo chips. The last four or five miles have been

-sandy, the ground uneven and very heavy on our teams. The country looks

-perfectly barren; in some places there is nothing but a few weeds and

-garlick. Some of the brethren picked considerable of the latter to eat.

-The feed is very poor indeed, but a little better than four miles back.

-John S. Higbee has killed a deer and some of the brethren wounded two

-others. This deer which Brother Higbee killed is of the long tailed

-species, having a tail more than a half a yard long, and is the first

-one I ever saw of the kind. A while after we camped, President Young

-and Kimball went to the bluffs and again saw the Black Hills in the

-distance. They bowed before the Lord and offered up their prayers

-together.

-

-The month of May has passed over and we have been permitted to proceed

-so far on our journey, being 5311/4 miles from our families in Winter

-Quarters, with the camp generally enjoying good health and good

-spirits, and although some things have passed which have merited

-chastisement, we have the privilege at the closing of the month of

-seeing a better feeling, a more noble spirit, and a more general desire

-to do right than we have before witnessed. I feel to humble myself and

-give God thanks for his continued mercies to me and my brethren and

-may His spirit fill our hearts and may His angels administer comfort,

-health, peace and prosperity to all our families and all the Saints

-henceforth and forever. Amen.

-

-

-

-June 1847

-

-Tuesday, June 1

-

-The morning very fine, warm and pleasant. All is still and quiet as a

-summer's morning, the camp well and in good spirits and a feeling of

-peace, union and brotherly love seems to dwell in every breast. My mind

-revolves back upon by-gone days and then to the present, and I truly

-feel thankful to my God for His mercies to me and for the privilege

-I now daily enjoy. The idea of dwelling with my family in a land of

-peace, in the midst of the Saints of God is better felt than described,

-but the mild, still scenery of this morning puts me in mind of it.

-At nine o'clock we pursued our journey, the stream we passed over is

-called by Grosclaude: "The Raw Hide." Elder Kimball let me have his

-horse to ride. I went in company with George A. Smith who was on foot

-carrying his gun in fulfillment of President Young's prophecy at the

-Pawnee Mission station. The wagons went on till half past eleven and

-then halted for noon. We were about a mile ahead of them. The distance

-they traveled was four and a half miles. At half past one, started

-out again and traveled till a little after four o'clock and saw Fort

-Laramie about four miles to the southwest. Elder Kimball and President

-Young then came up to where Brother Woodruff and I were looking out

-for feed and we started on, President Young having stopped the wagons,

-and went to the ford opposite to the fort. It was finally concluded to

-form our encampment here on the banks of the river. Several men soon

-came down from the fort which is about two miles from here and made

-themselves known as a part of the Mississippi company from Pueblo. They

-have been here two weeks. It caused us much joy to meet with brethren

-in this wild region of country and also because we should have some

-news from the brethren in the army. Luke Johnson being up here with

-the boat and several others coming up, they got the boat into the

-river to go over and see the brethren. And Luke Johnson, John Brown,

-Joseph Mathews and Porter Rockwell started over and about the same

-time, Presidents Young and Kimball started back to bring the camp up.

-When the brethren got over the river Brother Brown met several whom he

-knew and soon returned bringing Brother Crow and his son-in-law over

-to this side. The brethren seemed pleased to meet us. Brother Crow

-reports deaths in the Pueblo detachment since Brothers Tippets and

-Woolsey left, viz. Melcher Oyler, Arnold Stevens. They also state that

-Soloman Tindall was on the point of death. The other portion of the

-battalion they had not heard from. The Pueblo brethren are expected to

-receive their pay and start for this point, at latest by this date,

-and will probably be here in about two weeks. They also recorded that

-three traders from the mountains arrived here six days ago, having

-come from Sweet Water in six days and nights. They traveled day and

-night with horses and mules to prevent their starving to death as there

-is no feed up there. Two of their oxen had died already, etc. The

-snow was two feet deep at Sweet Water when they left, so that we are

-evidently plenty soon enough for feed. At 5:45 the wagons arrived and

-formed encampment on the banks of the river in the form of a V, having

-traveled this afternoon, seven and a half miles and during the day,

-twelve, making a total from Winter Quarters to Fort Laramie 5431/4 miles

-and we have traveled it in seven weeks lacking a half a day, but we

-have traveled but a few miles on Sundays. We have arrived so far on our

-journey without accident except the loss of two horses by Indians and

-two killed. We have been prosperous on our journey, the camp are all in

-better health than when we left Winter Quarters and we see daily that

-the Lord blesses us and directs the movements of this camp as seemeth

-Him good and as is for our good and prosperity. The road today has been

-mostly sandy and heavy on teams with but little feed in any place. The

-country begins to have a more hilly and mountainous appearance. Some

-of the Black Hills show very plain from here. The timber is mostly ash

-and cottonwood on the low bottoms near the river. There is some cedar

-on the bluffs. In one of the large ash trees in the middle of the camp

-is an Indian babe or papoose. It cannot be said to be buried, but

-deposited, being first wrapped with a skin and then tied between two

-of the highest limbs of the tree. This is said to be the way they bury

-their dead. The bark is all peeled off the tree below, I suppose to

-prevent the wolves from getting up.

-

-Wednesday, June 2

-

-The morning pleasant. About nine o'clock started over the river in

-company with the Twelve and others to view the fort and also learn

-something in regard to our journey, etc. Elder Pratt measured the

-distance across the river at this spot and found it to be 108 yards.

-The water is deep in the channel and the current runs about four miles

-an hour. After crossing we went up to the remains of an old fort called

-Fort Platte which is near the banks of the river, the outside walls

-still standing, but the inside is in ruins, having been burned up.

-The walls are built of adobes or Spanish brick, being large pieces

-of tempered clay dried in the sun and apparently laid one on another

-without mortar or cement. The dimensions of this fort outside are 144

-feet east to west, and from north to south 103 feet. There is a large

-door fronting to the south which has led to the dwellings which have

-been fourteen in number, built in the form of a parallelogram, leaving

-a large space in the center. The space occupied by the dwelling is not

-quite half of the whole fort. Fronting to the east is another large

-door which opens upon a large open space 983/4 feet by 47 feet where it

-is supposed they used to keep horses, etc. At the northwest corner is

-a tower projecting out from the line of the walls six feet each way,

-or, in other words it is twelve feet square with port holes for cannon.

-At the northeast corner has been another projection extending eastward

-291/2 feet and is 191/2 feet wide. The walls are 11 feet high and 30

-inches thick. We took the dimensions of this with a tape line and then

-proceeded to Fort Laramie about two miles farther west. This latter

-fort was first built of wood about thirteen years since, and named

-Fort William, but being destroyed was afterwards built seven years

-ago with adobes and named John. It stands on the bank of the Laramie

-fork. Laramie fork is a stream forty-one yards wide, a very swift

-current, but not deep. We tarried a little while with the Mississippi

-brethren who have camped close by the fort and then went inside. We

-were politely welcomed by Mr. Bordeau who appears to be the principal

-officer. He conducted us up a flight of stairs into a comfortable room

-and being furnished with seats, we rested ourselves. President Young

-and others entered into conversation with Mr. Bordeau. From him we

-learned that we cannot travel over four miles farther on the north

-side the Platte before we come to bluffs which cannot be crossed with

-loaded wagons. The road is better on this side than the one we have

-traveled, it being hard and not sandy. Feed scarce mostly lying in

-little patches near the river. They send their furs to Fort Pierre on

-the Missouri river a distance of 400 miles by land and receive all

-their stores and provisions back by the same teams, except their meat

-which they kill, there being buffalo within two days' drive. They

-have tried making a garden and planting corn which did well enough

-the first year, but afterwards they could raise nothing for want of

-rain. They have had no rain for two years until a few days ago. They

-have got a flat boat which will carry two wagons easily which we can

-have for fifteen dollars or he will ferry us over for $18.00 or 25c a

-wagon. From the door of this room one can see the same black hill seen

-on Sunday evening and which is Laramie Peak. We could see the snow

-lying on it very plainly. We can also see several ranges of high hills

-in the distance which are no doubt parts of the Black Hills. We went

-across the square to the trading house which lies on the north side

-of the western entrance. The trader opened his store and President

-Young entered into conversation with him. They trade solely with the

-Sioux. The Crows come here for nothing but to steal. A few weeks ago

-a party came down and stole twenty-five horses, all that they had at

-the fort, although they were within 300 yards of the fort at the time

-and a guard around them. The Sioux will not steal on their own land.

-A pair of moccasins are worth a dollar, a lariat a dollar, a pound of

-tobacco a dollar and a half, and a gallon of whiskey $32.00. They have

-no sugar, coffee or spices as their spring stores have not yet arrived.

-They have lately sent to Fort Pierre, 600 bales of robes with ten robes

-in each bale. Their wagons have been gone forty-five days, etc. The

-blacksmith shop lies on the south side of the western entrance. There

-are dwellings inside the fort beside that of Mr. Bordeau's. The south

-end is divided off and occupied for stables, etc. There are many souls

-at this fort, mostly French, half-breeds, and a few Sioux Indians.

-Elder Pratt measured the river and found it forty-one yards. He also

-took the latitude which was 42 deg. 12' 13". Brother Bullock told me that

-several of the brethren had picked up a number of beads off the ant

-hills. Curiosity led me to go and examine and I found it even so. It

-appears that the ants gather all the small pebbles they can carry and

-build them over their hills to prevent the strong winds from blowing

-them away, and amongst the rest, they picked up beads which have been

-lost off the Indians' moccasins and robes, etc. I picked up quite a

-number. Brother Bullock and I took the dimensions of the fort which

-will be given in another place. We then got on board the boat and had

-a pleasant ride about three miles down the Laramie fork to its mouth,

-the current being very swift. At the mouth, the brethren mostly got on

-shore and towed the boat up to camp. After dinner I went over again in

-the cutter which was going to fish with the seine in the Laramie fork.

-They caught sixty or seventy small fish, salmon, suckers, etc. About

-six o'clock we returned to camp. The Twelve have decided that Amasa

-Lyman shall go with Brothers Woolsey, Tippets and Stevens to Pueblo.

-They start tomorrow. Longitude at Fort Laramie 104 deg. 11' 53". I have

-seen three birds here which very much resemble the English magpie in

-size, shape and color, in fact I know of no difference between the two.

-We passed a number of currant bushes about four miles back, quite thick

-with young, green currants. On the morning of the 4th of June, I put

-up a guide board on the north side of the river at the ferry with the

-following inscription on it, viz. Winter Quarters 5431/4 miles, junction

-of the forks 2271/2 miles. Ash Hollow 1421/4 miles, Chimney Rock 701/4 miles,

-Scott's Bluffs 501/2 miles. Wm. Clayton, June 4, 1847. Elder Pratt took

-the altitude of Fort Laramie and found it to be 4,090 feet above the

-level of the sea. Fremont makes 4,470, differing 380 feet.

-

-Thursday, June 3

-

-The morning cold with strong southeast wind. The first division

-commenced ferrying over the river at five o'clock and took a wagon over

-every fifteen minutes. After breakfast I went over and wrote a letter

-for Elder Kimball to James Brown at Pueblo, then walked up to a high

-bluff on the northwest to view the country, but not being able to see

-far from it, I went to another over a mile farther northwest. Although

-this last was very high I could see nothing but a succession of high

-ranges of bluffs as far as I could see, except the narrow space through

-which the river winds its course. Seeing some heavy thunder clouds

-rising very rapidly from the northwest I returned to camp and arrived

-just before the rain commenced. Elders A. Lyman, Thomas Woolsey, John

-H. Tippets and Roswell Stevens started at 11:15 on horses and mules for

-Pueblo. President Young, Kimball, Richards and Pratt accompanied them

-to the Laramie fork and then held a council, kneeled down and dedicated

-them to God and blessed them. The four then forded the river and went

-on their journey, the others returned to camp. At half past 1:00 p.m.

-it commenced raining heavily accompanied by hail, lightning and very

-loud thunder, which lasted till 3:30 p.m. During the storm, the horses

-were mostly secured in the old fort. The ferrying ceased till it was

-fair again, and about five o'clock the first division were all over.

-The boat was then manned by the second division, John S. Higbee,

-captain. They averaged a wagon across in eleven minutes and one in ten

-minutes and one in ten minutes and twenty seconds. The quickest trip

-made by the first division was thirteen minutes. About seven o'clock

-it commenced raining again from the southeast and rained heavily,

-consequently the brethren quit ferrying, leaving three companies of

-about fifteen wagons on the other side. All the wagons would have been

-taken over today if it had not been stormy.

-

-There is a report come in that there are 2,000 wagons on the road to

-Oregon, but a little distance behind, but we are satisfied the report

-is exaggerated. There are eighteen wagons camped about three miles

-below and one of the men who has come to the fort says that they have

-counted over 500 wagons. They have lost four horses by the Indians.

-

-Friday, June 4

-

-Morning very fine. Laramie peak shows very plain. The brethren

-commenced ferrying at 4:40 a.m., and at eight o'clock the last wagon

-was over. I walked up to a high bluff with Carlos Murray and picked up

-some stalactites clear as crystal supposed to be isinglass. The bluff

-is very high and almost perpendicular and it is dangerous to get to the

-crystals.

-

-At nine o'clock President Young, Kimball, W. Richards, A. P.

-Rockwood and T. Bullock walked up to Fort Laramie and returned soon

-after eleven o'clock. They have learned very favorable reports about

-Bear River Valley, being well timbered, plenty of good grass, light

-winters, little snow and abundance of fish, especially spotted trout,

-in the streams. About half past eleven o'clock Brother Crow's company

-came down and joined in with the second division and at twelve we

-started on our journey again, following the Oregon road. We traveled

-three miles and at 20 minutes past 1:00, halted near some good grass to

-let our teams feed. The weather is very warm though many light clouds

-are flying. The bluffs come near the river and are very high, steep,

-and look like sand. During the halt I went up on a very high bluff

-near by with my glass. I found it very difficult of ascent. From the

-top I could see Laramie peak very plainly and also some hills a long

-way off to the northwest. The country looks very hilly as far as can

-be seen and the snow on the peak shows quite plain. At half past two

-we continued our journey and found the road sandy and very uneven. At

-the distance of seven and three quarters miles from Fort Laramie we

-descended a very steep pitch or hill. All the wagons had to be locked

-and we were some time getting down. We went on half a mile farther and

-formed our encampment in a circle at half past five, having traveled

-eight and a quarter miles today. At half past five we had a shower

-accompanied by a little lightning and heavy thunder. I will now give

-the list of names of Brother Crow's company who have joined the camp

-today to go with this pioneer camp. They are as follows:

-

-Robert Crow, Elizabeth Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, Elizabeth Jane Crow,

-John McHenry Crow, Walter H. Crow, Geo. W. Therlkill, Matilla Jane

-Therlkill, Milton Howard Therlkill, James William Therlkill, William

-Parker Crow, Isa Vinda Exene Crow, Ira Minda Almarene Crow, Archibald

-Little, James Chesney and Lewis B. Myers, seventeen in number, making

-the total number of souls in this pioneer camp, after deducting four

-gone to Pueblo, 161.

-

-Lewis B. Myers is represented as knowing the country to the mountains,

-having traveled it, and I am told that he came as a guide to Brother

-Crow. They have five wagons, one cart, eleven horses, twenty-four oxen,

-twenty-two cows, three bulls and seven calves.

-

-Inasmuch as there have been some changes in horses and mules, I will

-endeavor to state them and give the number we started with from Fort

-Laramie. Two horses killed by accident. Two horses stolen by the

-Pawnees at Gravel creek; one mule traded for a pony by Brother Markham;

-three horses and one mule gone with the brethren to Pueblo; one horse

-traded by O. P. Rockwell for three cows and two calves; one horse

-traded by John Pack for three buffalo robes; one horse traded by T.

-Brown for a pony at Laramie; one pony traded by J. S. Higbee to

-the Sioux for a pony. These changes with the addition made by Brother

-Crow's company make the number as follows: horses 95, mules 51, head of

-oxen 100, cows 41, bulls 3, calves 7, dogs and chickens, and 77 wagons

-and 1 cart.

-

-Saturday, June 5

-

-The morning pleasant though somewhat cloudy. Elder Kimball gave George

-Billings a lecture about abusing his team, kicking them, etc. He gave

-George some very good advice. The horn sounded early to start but we

-were detained till half past eight on account of several oxen being

-missing. About that time they were found and we pursued our journey.

-After traveling a little over four miles we ascended a steep bluff.

-The road runs on the top of it a little distance in a very crooked

-direction, the surface in some places being hard, uneven rock, which

-shakes and jars the wagons very much. In one place there is a little

-descent and at the bottom a very sharp turn in the road over rough

-rock. Here Brother Crow's cart turned over. However, it was soon

-righted and no injury done to anything. At the west foot is a steep,

-sandy descent but not difficult. The bluff is a half a mile across.

-About a half a mile from the west foot we turned from the river nearly

-a west course and crossed a low gravelly channel where it appears the

-river has run sometime and perhaps does now in high water.

-

-The road after this is considerably crooked and uneven. About a mile

-and a quarter farther we descended again on the same gravelly channel

-and traveled up it a piece and at 11:35 halted for noon opposite a

-very large spring noticed by Fremont. The water of this spring is

-very clear and soft, but considerably warmer than the river water. We

-have traveled this morning six and a half miles. Just as we halted,

-two men came down from the other road on mules to water. They are in

-company with eleven wagons and bound for west of the mountains. They

-say the other road from Laramie is only ten miles to the spring while

-our road has been 143/4 miles. About a half an hour after we stopped, we

-had a nice shower. The 1st division halted about a quarter of a mile

-back from here. Latitude at the warm springs 42 deg. 15' 6". While we were

-halting, the company above referred to passed down the bluffs and went

-ahead of us. They have got many cows, etc., with them. At 1:40 p.m.

-we resumed our journey. After traveling a mile we turned in a narrow

-pass to the northwest between two high bluffs and traveled a quarter of

-a mile farther, then came to where the road rises a very high, steep

-bluff. At the foot is a short sudden pitch and then a rugged ascent

-for a quarter of a mile. The bluff is rocky and many large cobble

-stones lay in the road which made it hard on teams. Appleton Harmon

-took one of his yoke of cattle and assisted George Billings to the top

-and Brother Johnson took Appleton's steers and put them forward of his

-and brought up his wagon. Appleton and Johnson then took the three

-yoke of oxen and fetched up Appleton's wagon which threw us nearly in

-the rear of all the wagons, none of the rest doubling teams. After

-arriving on the top the road was good but still rising for a quarter of

-a mile farther. We traveled on this high land five and a quarter miles

-which was very good traveling although it was considerably rolling.

-Four and a half miles from the top of the last mentioned bluff, we

-passed a large lone rock, standing far away from any other. At five

-and a quarter miles we descended again from the bluff, the descent

-being steep and lengthy but sandy and good to travel. At the foot of

-the bluff we again crossed the gravelly channel and traveled on and

-alongside about a mile, then descended a little to the bottom prairie

-again. At 6:30 we formed our encampment on the west bank of a small

-stream and near a very good spring of cold water, having traveled this

-afternoon 101/2 miles and during the day seventeen.

-

-I have put up two guide boards today. One at 10 and the other at 20

-miles from Fort John or Laramie, but the former name is on the guide

-boards. The bluffs we have passed today are mostly very high, rocky and

-broken, with pine growing on most or nearly all of them. We have pretty

-good feed here and plenty of wood and good water. The gentile camp is a

-little east of us. They say that there were two more companies arrived

-at Fort Laramie this morning as they left, and three other companies

-within twenty miles of Laramie. They left this morning. They left

-Independence on the 22nd of April. They are expecting the mail soon

-on mules, but they anticipate keeping ahead of all the companies. We

-find the road very crooked, but not bad traveling. About dark it rained

-some, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The camp was notified that

-tomorrow will be a day for fasting and prayer as last Sunday.

-

-Sunday, June 6

-

-Morning cloudy, cool, and like for rain. At eight o'clock the eleven

-wagons passed us again. At nine the brethren assembled for prayer

-meeting a little from the camp, but many kept about their wagons, some

-washing and some at other things. At eleven o'clock, four Missourians

-came up mounted, being part of a company a little behind. Some of

-these are recognized by the brethren and they seem a little afraid and

-not fond of our company. They say the old settlers have all fled from

-Shariton, Missouri, except two tavern keepers, and I feel to wish that

-their fears may follow them even to Oregon. At half past eleven just

-as the brethren again assembled for meeting it commenced raining hard,

-accompanied by lightning and heavy thunder which caused the meeting to

-break up abruptly. During the storm, the Missouri company passed by us,

-having nineteen wagons and two carriages. Most of their wagons have

-five yoke of cattle to each, and few less than four. They have many

-cows, horses and young cattle with them. They have a guide with them

-who lives on the St. Mary's River at the Columbia. He says we shall

-find water again about six miles from here and then no more for fifteen

-miles farther. It was then considered wise to move on this afternoon as

-we cannot well reach the second watering place in one day. Soon after

-twelve o'clock the weather cleared off, the sun shone and looks like

-for being fine. The wind blows strong from the west. At half past 2:00

-p.m. the camp began to move forward. About three quarters of a mile

-we crossed the same small stream again, and two miles further arrived

-at a sudden bend in the road to the south about two hundred yards and

-then as sudden to the north the same distance occasioned by the water

-having washed a deep gulf where the road ought to run. A mile beyond

-this the wagons came to a halt in a body of timber and brushwood at

-four o'clock, and halted while the brethren on horseback, viz. Elder

-Young, Kimball and Woodruff, went ahead to look for a camping ground.

-They returned at 4:40 and the camp proceeded on. Having proceeded a

-quarter of a mile we passed the camp of the nineteen wagons close by

-the timber a little south of the road. Several of the men came to look

-at the roadometer, having heard from some of the brethren that we had

-one. They expressed a wish to each other to see inside and looked upon

-it as a curiosity. I paid no attention to them inasmuch as they did

-not address themselves to me. At a quarter past 5:00 p.m. we formed

-our encampment in an oblong circle, at the foot of a low bluff on the

-west and close by water, having traveled five miles. The feed here is

-very good and plentiful. Wind strong from the west. Road very crooked,

-mostly a southwest and west course. There is plenty of timber all along

-and the soil looks good on the low lands. One of the men in the company

-of the nineteen wagons told G. A. Smith that he had broken his

-carriage spring and seemed much troubled to know what to do to get

-along. He asked George if there was any man in our company who could

-fix it. George told him there was. After we were camped, Burr Frost set

-up his forge and welded the spring ready to put on before dark.

-

-Monday, June 7

-

-Morning fine. Elder Pratt gave me some instructions on the use of the

-sextant and showed me how to take an observation. He has promised to

-teach me to take observations and calculate latitude and longitude

-and I intend to improve the opportunity. At 6:30 the Missouri company

-passed through again. And at ten minutes past seven we commenced our

-onward course. Dr. Richards left a letter in a guide board 301/4 miles

-to Fort John. I walked about five miles mostly in company with Elder

-Pratt conversing on astronomy and philosophical subjects. Elder Kimball

-then let me have his horse to ride. We traveled till eleven o'clock

-and then halted to feed on the west bank of a small stream and spring

-of clear water, having traveled 73/4 miles, mostly a north of northwest

-course. The road more even and good traveling. Soon after we halted,

-another company of Missourians passed us, having thirteen wagons and

-mostly four yoke of oxen to each. They say they are from Andrew County,

-Missouri. At 12:35 we moved forward. At a quarter of a mile began to

-ascend a bluff which was a quarter of a mile from the bottom to the

-top, the ascent gradual and tolerably steep. From the top of this hill

-we had as pleasant a view of the surrounding country as I have ever

-witnessed. Laramie peak appears only a few miles to the southwest, and

-from that around to the west, north, and northeast, a very extensive

-view of a beautiful country for many miles, indeed, as far as the

-eye could survey. From a fair view of the peak I am satisfied that

-the Black Hills, of which this is a prominent part, are so named

-from the vast forests of pine trees covering their surface and being

-of a dark green color within a few miles of them. The pine grows in

-the most rocky places and abounds on the highest hills, while on the

-lower bluffs it is sparsely scattered and in the bottom land, which

-looks rich and good, there are none. We have passed many noble trees

-and there is no lack of good pine timber in this region. The peak is

-very high, and very broken and craggy, the snow still lying on its

-summit and plainly visible with the naked eye. The ridge over which

-we passed was a half a mile over from the southeast to the northwest

-foot. At that distance we began to descend and had to lock the wagons

-in several places. The descent was rendered unpleasant by the many

-large cobble stones scattered in the road. Many of the brethren threw

-them out of the road as we went along and the road is much improved.

-They have also dug down some places and leveled others, which will

-make the road much better for other companies. At half past three we

-arrived at Horse Creek and formed our encampment on the bottom land

-near the timber or rather in the midst of a grove of ash, cottonwood,

-etc., having traveled five and a quarter miles this afternoon over

-crooked road and during the day, thirteen miles. On this camp ground

-is one of the clearest and largest springs of water I have seen for a

-long time. Elder Kimball having discovered it, he calls it his spring

-or Heber's spring. The creek is also clear and said to have trout in

-it. The feed is much better and more plentiful than we have ever met

-with on this journey. There is abundance of wild mint and sage growing

-here; the mint seems to perfume the air. The sage grows in abundance on

-all this sandy land. There are also many wild currant bushes in full

-bloom and prickley pears all along the road. The other companies were

-all within two miles when we arrived here, but mostly going on a few

-miles farther. A little before we stopped, we had a thunder storm which

-lasted upwards of an hour. During the latter part of it, it rained very

-heavily accompanied by hail and thunder and lightning. Our hunters have

-killed a long-tailed deer and an antelope, which were distributed as

-usual. Brother Crow's hunter also killed a deer, but they are unwilling

-to conform to the rules of the camp in dividing and reserve it all

-to themselves. Brother Crow observed that if they got more than they

-could use they would be willing to let the camp have some. Some of the

-other companies killed an antelope, took off the quarters and left the

-balance on the ground. Brother Pack picked it up and brought it along.

-After we stopped Brother Crow came near meeting with an accident while

-endeavoring to yoke up a pair of wild steers. It took a number of

-men to hold them, having lariats on their saddle-horns. They got the

-lariats entangled round their legs and Brother Crow also, throwing one

-of the steers down and he fast with it. They cut the rope and he was

-liberated without injury. Myers, the hunter, roasts the young antlers

-of the deer and eats them. In regard to Brother Crow's meat, etc., I

-afterwards learned that the whole family had to depend on Myers for

-what they eat, having no bread stuff, nor anything only what he kills,

-and the little flour and meal paid to him for a part of the ferryage,

-he having a small claim on Bordeau. After supper, walked out with Elder

-Kimball and was joined by George A. Smith. Brother Smith told me of a

-good opportunity of sending a letter to my family by some traders who

-are expected down every day and I feel to improve the opportunity. We

-had a very strong wind at night, so much that I could not write.

-

-Tuesday, June 8

-

-Morning fine though cool. At half past seven we proceeded on our

-journey crossing the Horseshoe creek, which is about a rod wide. We

-traveled two and a quarter miles, winding around the foot of high

-bluffs and then began to ascend them. We found this ascent the worst

-we have ever had, being three quarters of a mile up, and having in

-that distance seven very steep rises. On most of them the teams had to

-double. We saw a buffalo about a half a mile to the south which is the

-first we have seen since about the 21st of May. Two and a half miles

-from the east foot of the last bluff we passed over a small creek,

-nearly dry, and then ascended another high bluff but not nearly so

-bad a rise as the other one. At 11:45 we halted for noon near a very

-small creek with but little water in it, having traveled six and three

-quarters miles over hills and valleys, the roads being very crooked.

-About half an hour before we halted, Harriet Crow got run over with one

-of their wagons. The teams had stopped near the descent from the bluffs

-and she stepped on the wagon tongue to get a drink. The cattle started

-suddenly, threw her under the wheel which passed over her leg below the

-knee and downwards, passing over her foot above the toes. She screamed

-and appeared in great agony. We thought her leg was broken, but were

-soon satisfied to the contrary. Her foot was badly bruised but I think

-there was nothing broken. One of the women washed it with camphor. She

-was then put into a wagon and we proceeded on. Latitude 42 deg. 29' 58".

-

-At 1:40 we proceeded. After traveling a little over a mile and a

-half we passed another small creek, and again ascended a high bluff.

-We found this ridge more uneven than the other, it being a perfect

-succession of hills and hollows for five miles. The road was good

-and hard. While traveling on the top the wind blew very strong from

-the west and it was so cold that we suffered some. The road over was

-indeed very crooked but mostly bending to the north. We could see a

-long distance from the top. The country to the north looks more even

-but south and southwest very hilly and broken. At five miles we began

-to descend gradually, and while watching the roadometer I discovered

-it did not work right which made me pay more attention to it. At ten

-minutes past six we crossed a stream about thirty feet wide and nearly

-two feet deep with a very swift current. It is named on Fremont's map

-as La Bonte river. We formed our encampment on the west bank in the

-timber having traveled this afternoon 83/4 miles and during the day 151/2.

-The evening is very cold and much appearance of rain. Porter Rockwell

-has killed a deer and someone else an antelope. Porter says he has been

-on the Platte which is about four miles from here following the La

-Bonte. Soon after we stopped, the men came into camp who were expected

-to carry a letter. They are camped about a mile west of us. I finished

-my letter to my family by candle light, as it is contemplated to start

-in the morning before breakfast and go a few miles to better feed.

-

-Wednesday, June 9

-

-Arose at 4:20 and at 5:15 a.m. we moved onward, keeping near the La

-Bonte. At 5:45 halted for breakfast beside the traders' camp, having

-come a mile and a quarter. I sent my letter to them by Aaron Farr, a

-number of the brethren also sending letters. While we halted I got

-the roadometer fixed again and also put up a guide board marked "To

-Fort John 60 miles." These traders or mountaineers said they had left

-a kind of ferry made of three buffalo skins hung in a tree on the

-Platte and wanted Brother Crow's company to have it. It was decided

-to send a company ahead to overreach the Missouri companies and get

-the ferry before they could arrive, and also build a raft for us to

-cross on, kill game, etc. The men say it is about seventy miles to

-where we cross the river. Nineteen wagons were sent ahead and about

-forty men to attend to this business. All of Brother Crow's company

-went, Aaron Farr, J. Redding, the cutter, etc., being five wagons from

-the 1st division and fourteen from the 2nd. They started about half

-an hour before we started. We proceeded at 7:45 and immediately after

-starting had to cross a very steep gulf, being difficult for teams to

-get up, though it was not long. Soon after this, four men passed us

-with pack horses and mules. They say they are from Pueblo and going

-to Green River; they told others they were from Santa Fe and going to

-San Francisco. We found the road very hilly and uneven and crooked as

-yesterday. At three and three quarters miles passed over a branch of

-the La Bonte, a stream about ten feet wide but not deep. The descent

-and ascent being very steep, most of the teams required assistance to

-get up. For half a mile before we crossed this stream and three and a

-half miles after, our road lay over a kind of red earth or sand about

-the color of red precipitate. Most of the rocks and bluffs are of the

-same red color, only a deeper red. It affected my eyes much from its

-brightness and strange appearance. About one and a quarter miles west

-of the creek President Young and Kimball saw a large toad which had

-horns on its head and a tail. It did not jump like a toad but crawled

-like a mouse. This was seen near a large pile of rock or rather a hill.

-At 12:40 we halted for noon having come ten miles since breakfast.

-There is little water here for the teams. The day fine and nice west

-breeze. The road is very crooked, hilly, and mostly rocky, many large

-cobble stones covering the bluffs, the land barren and little grass.

-The ground here is covered with large crickets which are so numerous,

-to walk without stepping on them is almost impossible.

-

-At half past two o'clock we were on the move again. I put up another

-guide board a little east of the creek: "70 miles." We found the road

-much better this afternoon, not being so uneven, and tolerably straight

-excepting a bluff to climb a mile from the creek. At the foot of this

-bluff I saw a toad with a tail like a lizard, about three inches long.

-It had no horns but there was the appearance of horns just coming on

-each side of the head. It resembles a lizard in color, tail, and motion

-when running swiftly through the grass. Its hide appeared hard and on

-its sides appeared numerous little sharp pointed fins or pricks. In

-other respects it resembled any common toad. At a quarter past one we

-formed our encampment on the east banks of a stream about a rod wide,

-two feet deep and swift current. It is named the A La Pierre. We have

-traveled eight miles this afternoon and during the day 191/4. We have a

-good place for feed but the higher land is barren, abounding only in

-wild sage. There are still some high bluffs around but the country west

-appears much more level. The evening fine but cool. After traveling six

-and a quarter miles from noon halt, passed a small creek, and again

-three quarters of a mile farther passed the same creek. Sterling Driggs

-killed an antelope and a deer.

-

-Thursday, June 10

-

-The morning calm and very pleasant. There is wild mint growing on the

-bank of this stream in great plenty and abundance of wild sage on all

-the higher land. The mint smells natural, but the sage smells strong

-of turpentine and a little like camphor. Started at half past seven

-and found good roads. At four and a half miles passed over a small

-creek about three feet wide but not much water, being only a few inches

-deep. A mile farther passed another creek about five feet wide, clear

-water and plentiful. At 11:20 we halted on the east bank of a stream

-about thirty feet wide and tolerably deep with a rapid current, having

-come eight and three quarters miles. We have had several long, steep

-bluffs to ascend and descend and two places at the creeks where it was

-hard for the teams to get up without help. We saw one of the Missouri

-companies a few miles ahead of us. Edmund Elsworth killed an antelope.

-There is good feed here and plentiful. Our road has been crooked mostly

-winding northward. The creek on which we camped last night is named

-A La Pierre and about a mile from where the road crosses, it runs

-through a tunnel from ten to twenty rods under the high rocky bluffs.

-The tunnel is high enough for a man to stand upright in it, and when

-standing at the entrance one can see the light through on the other

-side. It seems as though this tunnel has been formed by some strange

-feat of nature. Several of the brethren went to see it. Lewis Barney

-and another brother each killed an antelope which were brought into

-camp during the halt and divided. The brethren carried the two last

-about five miles on their shoulders. We have learned today from one

-of the travelers that there is one man living and making a farm in

-the Bear River valley. At a quarter to 2:00 we continued our journey.

-Found the road somewhat more even and good traveling. I put a guide

-board this morning at 80 miles from Fort John, and this afternoon after

-traveling three and a quarter miles from noon halt I put up another

-mark at 90 miles. Just as I finished setting it, I looked forward and

-saw the Platte river again. After descending a half a mile we were on

-its banks, being 77 miles since we left it on Saturday last, after

-having wound around among the hills and bluffs all the way. When we

-arrived near the river the road was more level but sandy and harder

-on our teams. There are also some low places where the water stands,

-making it soft, but scarcely any feed for teams since we left the creek

-at noon. At a quarter to six we passed another stream about thirty feet

-wide and two feet deep, swift current and clear water. Name is Deer

-Creek. There is plenty of timber on its banks and abundance of good,

-rich grass for our teams. We formed our encampment on the west bank

-in a grove of large timber. About a mile back we passed a sick horse

-supposed to be left by some of the companies ahead. Brother Markham

-bled it in its mouth, but could not get it along and had to leave it.

-The distance we have traveled this afternoon was nine miles and during

-the day 173/4 miles, the last five miles being nearly a west course. Soon

-after we camped, Horace Whitney went to fishing in this stream. We were

-soon satisfied that there are plenty of fish in it. I got a line and

-went to fishing also and in a few minutes caught two which would weigh

-a half a pound each. We then went a piece below the ford and by fishing

-till a little after dark I caught twenty-four nice fish which would

-average over a half a pound each, and some of them would weigh over a

-pound each. The ones I caught were of a very bright color and very much

-resembled the herring, but much larger. Horace caught a cat fish and

-two suckers. A number of brethren also caught more and some less. There

-is abundance of fish in this stream and we might have caught enough

-for all the camp with the sein but it is ahead with those who are gone

-to build a raft. The Twelve and some others walked out together to the

-river about a quarter of a mile up the stream. Some of the brethren

-discovered a rich bed of stone coal where any quantity might easily be

-dug, and it is said to look good and is a fine quality. The land here

-on the bottom is rich and would doubtless yield good crops of grain and

-potatoes, etc. Lewis Barney killed an antelope this afternoon which was

-distributed as he saw fit, inasmuch as he was not appointed a hunter.

-The evening is very fine, calm and pleasant indeed.

-

-Friday, June 11

-

-Arose at four o'clock to try and get some more fish. Morning fine and

-warm, but caught only four. I procured a sample of the stone coal from

-G. A. Smith. It looks good. This place reminds me of England. The

-calm, still morning with the warbling of many birds, the rich grass,

-good streams, and plenty of timber, make it pleasant. At 7:35 we again

-continued our journey along the banks of the river which appears

-somewhat wider here than at Laramie. At two and a half miles we passed

-a deep hollow, the banks on both sides being very steep. At four and a

-quarter miles put up a guide board at 100 miles from Laramie, having

-traveled it in a week lacking two and a quarter hours. At 11:50 we

-halted for noon in a grove of timber where there is plenty of good

-feed for a large company. The land since morning has been generally

-level, but sandy and no grass. The road somewhat crooked. About a mile

-back we came around a bend to the south caused by a deep ravine. We

-had to travel more than a mile to make a quarter of a mile direct.

-William Empey, Edmund Elsworth, and Francis M. Pomeroy, each killed an

-antelope. Several of the brethren have taken an interest in the guide

-boards and wherever they see a piece of board sufficiently large, they

-pick it up and preserve it. By this means we have now got enough to

-last 200 miles. The distance we have traveled since morning is nine and

-a quarter miles, being 105 miles in the week including Sunday, or 100

-miles in six days. About half an hour after we halted, Brother Joseph

-Hancock came in with the hind quarters of an antelope which he killed

-about three miles back. He could not carry the remainder and left it on

-the ground. At two o'clock we started again. After traveling one mile,

-we crossed a very crooked, muddy creek, about twelve feet wide and over

-a foot deep. The descent and ascent were both bad on account of a crook

-from one to the other. There is plenty of feed on its banks, but no

-wood. Five and three-quarters miles farther another muddy creek about

-three feet wide and bad to cross on account of the clay being very soft

-in its banks. The balance of the road good, but considerably crooked.

-At half past five o'clock we came to a halt on account of seeing a

-number of wagons about a half mile ahead which proved to be two of

-the Missouri companies camped on the banks of the river and preparing

-to cross here. It was also ascertained that there is no camping place

-beyond them unless we go some distance. It was decided to turn off to

-the river opposite where we are and camp for the night and the wagons

-proceeded accordingly. We went a half a mile from the road and at six

-o'clock formed our encampment near the river where there is plenty of

-timber, having come on the road this afternoon seven and three-quarters

-miles and during the day seventeen miles, exclusive of the distance we

-turned off to camp. The feed here is good and plentiful. The region on

-the banks of the river is pretty level, but a few miles to the south

-there are very high bluffs. Very little chance for feed except in

-places on the banks of the river and generally where there is timber.

-These Missourian companies inform us that the regular crossing place is

-twelve miles farther and that our brethren are gone on there and also

-the balance of the Missourian companies. These men have got a light

-flat boat with them and have already got one load over. They say they

-have killed three bears between here and the bluffs. They have also

-killed a buffalo. There have been signs of bears seen by our brethren

-a number of times, but no bears for a certainty. We have only seen

-one buffalo since we left Laramie until today, when several have been

-seen. One of the Missourians brought a snow ball from the hill on the

-south. He gave Rockwood a piece of it, and he brought it to camp. Elder

-Kimball and several others saw it which now convinces us snow is yet

-lying on these high bluffs. Henson Walker, Charles Barnum and Brother

-Owens have each killed an antelope this afternoon, making eight during

-the day.

-

-Saturday, June 12

-

-Morning very fine with nice east breeze. Brother Markham has learned

-this morning that Obadiah Jennings was the principal in killing Bowman

-in Missouri. Bowman was one of the guard who let Joseph and Hyrum and

-the others get away when prisoners in Missouri. The mob suspected him

-and rode him on a bar of iron till they killed him. At a quarter past

-eight o'clock we continued our journey. At one and a half miles crossed

-a deep gulch pretty difficult to descend but not bad to ascend. One and

-three-quarters miles farther, we crossed a small creek about two feet

-wide on a bridge which the brethren fixed, they having started ahead

-of the wagons for that purpose. One mile beyond the last mentioned

-creek we crossed another muddy stream about five feet wide, and one

-and a half feet deep. At a quarter to 12:00, we halted after crossing

-another large ravine, having traveled seven and three-quarters miles

-over a sandy, barren prairie. In some places it is soft, although the

-soil is much like clay in appearance. The road somewhat crooked, and

-the day fine and warm. During the halt, Brother Rockwood called upon

-the brethren to help fix another ravine immediately west of us. Many

-turned out and it was soon done. James Case and S. Markham went to the

-river opposite here to see if it could be forded. They waded their

-horses over and found the water about four feet six inches deep in the

-channel and the current very swift. Of course it could not be forded

-with loads in the wagons, but the loading would have to be ferried in

-the boat. They made a report of this kind on their return to camp and

-about the same time Brother Chesley came down from the brethren ahead

-and reported their progress and the nature of the crossing place, etc.

-A number of the brethren in company with Elder Kimball and Chesley

-went to the river opposite the camp to decide whether to cross here or

-go on. Brother Markham and Case again went over, but it was finally

-concluded to go up to the other ferry. We accordingly started at half

-past two. I went ahead on foot. At three and a quarter miles, crossed

-a creek about five feet wide. At half past four the encampment was

-formed on the banks of the river, having come four miles, and during

-the day eleven and a quarter. It is about a half a mile from our camp

-to the place where they ferry. I arrived at the brethren's camp at four

-o'clock and learned that they arrived here yesterday about noon. Two

-of the Missourian companies arrived about the same time. The brethren

-concluded that a raft would be of no use on account of the swiftness of

-the current. The Missourian company offered to pay them well if they

-would carry their company over in the boat and a contract was made to

-do so for $1.50 per load, the brethren to receive their pay in flour at

-$2.50 per hundred. They commenced soon after and this evening finished

-their work, and received the pay mostly in flour, a little meal and

-some bacon. They have made $34.00 with the cutter all in provisions

-which is a great blessing to the camp inasmuch as a number of the

-brethren have had no bread stuff for some days. During the afternoon

-yesterday, one of the men of the Missourian company undertook to swim

-across the river with his clothes on. When he reached the current

-he became frightened and began to moan. Some of our men went to him

-with the cutter and arrived in time to save his life. The Missourian

-company seem to feel well toward us and express their joy at having got

-across the river so soon. Rodney Badger exchanged wagons with one of

-them and got a wagon as good as his own, only the tire wants setting.

-He got a horse, 100 lbs. flour, 25 lbs. of bacon and some crackers

-to boot. The provisions and horse are considered to be worth as much

-as his wagon. Since the brethren arrived here they have killed three

-buffalo, a grizzly bear and three cubs, and two antelope. The buffalo

-are very fat and the meat is good and sweet. According to the idea of

-some French travelers camped here, the buffalo are making down east

-behind the hills opposite here, which they say is a certain sign that

-the Indians are on Sweet Water hunting them. The brethren say that the

-buffalo are very plentiful back of these hills. When I returned to camp

-I learned that Tunis Rappleyee and Artemas Johnson were missing, the

-former having started for the hills to get a little snow; the latter

-having been hunting all day. A company were sent out with the bugle to

-find them. Brother Rappleyee returned about eleven o'clock. Johnson was

-found by the brethren who returned still later. All agreeing with the

-report that the hills are eight or ten miles distance, although they do

-not appear more than one mile. There were four antelope killed by the

-brethren but divided according to the feelings of those who killed them.

-

-Sunday, June 13

-

-The morning fine and pleasant. At nine o'clock the brethren assembled

-in the circle for prayer and after they had spent some time, Elder

-Kimball arose and addressed them exhorting them to be watchful and

-humble, to remember their covenants and above all things avoid

-everything that will lead to division, etc. He made use of the

-similitude of the potter and the clay to show that every man had the

-privilege of being exalted to honor and glory if he did not mar in

-the hands of the potter, but would continue passive, etc. His remarks

-were very touching and appropriate to our circumstances. President

-Young followed next on the "Liberty of the Gospel" showing that it

-guarantees all fullness of liberty to every man which fact will tend to

-his salvation and increase, but does not give us liberty to break the

-laws of God, to wander off to the mountains and get lost, nor to kill

-the works of God's hands to waste it, etc. He was followed by Elder

-Pratt on the subject of our avoiding all excesses of folly of every

-description, inasmuch as it disqualifies from the society of just men

-and angels. He exhorted the brethren to be watchful and to seek after

-wisdom and knowledge. The meeting was dismissed at half past twelve

-and a company were then dispatched to get poles to lash the wagons

-together to prevent their rolling over when crossing. Another company

-were sent over the river to build a raft to cross over provisions, etc.

-The brethren are gone to work and are diligently preparing to cross the

-river tomorrow. The day has been very hot, more like a summer day than

-any we have yet had on the journey. The ground seems to be alive with

-the large crickets, and it is said that the bears feed on them and pick

-them up very fast. A person who has never seen them could form no idea

-of the vast numbers of crickets in this region. I spent the day writing

-in Elder Kimball's journal. Phineas Young came in from the mountain,

-having killed a deer.

-

-Monday, June 14

-

-Morning cloudy and cool. At four o'clock the first division commenced

-ferrying their goods over the river in the cutter and some time

-afterwards commenced taking the wagons across on a raft which proved

-to be very slow work. The second division also began to take their

-goods over on a raft but the current was so strong they only took two

-loads over in it and then quit. The second division then got a rope

-stretched across the river from shore to shore and lashing two wagons

-fast together to keep them from rolling over, they dragged them over

-by the rope, letting them drift with the current to save breaking the

-rope. When the wagons struck on the sand on the other side the upper

-one keeled over, and finally rolled over the other one, breaking the

-bows considerably and losing iron, etc., in the wagon to the amount of

-$30.00 belonging to John Pack. The other wagon had the reach broken

-and some of the bows. They next lashed four wagons together abreast

-and dragged them over the same way. All got over well except the upper

-one which turned on its side, but it was righted again without damage.

-They next tried one wagon alone, but as soon as it got into the current

-it rolled over and over, breaking the bows pretty badly. The plan of

-taking one wagon at a time on a raft is the safest, no accident having

-occurred with it and the wagons got over dry but it is very slow and

-would take us three or four days to get all the wagons across. The wind

-blows strong from the southwest which is much to our disadvantage. At

-3:30 we had a very heavy thunder storm. The rain was heavy indeed,

-accompanied by hail and as strong a wind as I ever witnessed. After

-the storm was over the ferrying was continued, getting my trunk, etc.,

-and the loads in Brother Johnson and Harmon's wagons over, and also

-Harmon's wagon, Johnson's being got over just before the storm. It took

-till nearly ten o'clock to get the loading into the wagons and get

-regulated. The river has been rising all day and has risen very fast

-since the storm. The men have tried hard, much of the time being in the

-water and sometimes up to their armpits which is very fatiguing indeed.

-When they quit at night the first division had got eleven wagons over,

-the second division twelve, making twenty-three wagons after a very

-hard day's labor. There was no difficulty in getting the freight over

-for one man can carry it in the cutter faster than all the rest of the

-camp can get the wagons over.

-

-Tuesday, June 15

-

-The morning fine but very windy. The brethren continued ferrying wagons

-over on the raft and also built two other rafts. The wind being so high

-they could not get along very fast. In the afternoon they commenced

-driving over some of the horses and cattle belonging to Brother Crow's

-company. They neglected to take the lariats off the horses and the

-buffalo horse was soon seen to be drowning. Some of the men immediately

-went to it with the skiff and dragged him to the shore but could not

-succeed in bringing him to life. His natural make seemed to hurt him

-from swimming. The rest all got over safely. The cattle got over

-safely also; the current was very strong, the wind high and the river

-rising which made it look dangerous to swim the cattle across. It was

-concluded today to leave several brethren here to make a boat and

-keep a ferry till the next company comes up. By that means they will

-probably make enough to supply a large company with provisions. We have

-learned from a Missourian that there is a large company of emigrants

-coming up on the north side of the Platt above Grand Island. There are

-doubtless some of our brethren and if so they will probably reach us

-before we get through. The day continued windy and somewhat inclined to

-storm, but they succeeded in getting nearly twenty wagons over before

-night.

-

-Wednesday, June 16

-

-The morning fine but strong west wind. The brethren continue ferrying.

-A company have gone back about three miles to make two canoes on which

-they intend to build a boat to be used here till the next company

-comes up. Another company also went about half a mile up the river to

-make slabs or puncheons to lay on the canoes. A while before dark the

-brethren returned from below with two good canoes twenty-five feet

-long each and nearly finished and ready to put together. The ferrying

-continued all day but with great difficulty on account of the strong

-wind blowing down stream. When they started over with Brother Goddard's

-wagon the wind was blowing strong. James Craig and Wordsworth were on

-the raft with poles and when they got nearly half way across Brother

-Craig's pole stuck in the sand and threw him overboard. He swam back

-to shore and in spite of Brother Wordsworth's exertions, the wind

-and current carried the raft about two miles down the river. It was

-finally landed by the help of the cutter and without accident. They

-have had three rafts working today, two of which they now work by oars

-which are proving to be far superior to poles in this strong current.

-At the close of day there were still a number of wagons on the south

-shore. Those which had been brought over could not be easily counted on

-account of their being scattered all along the banks of the river for

-about a mile in length. It was now contemplated to leave a company of

-brethren at this ferry to ferry over the gentile companies for a dollar

-and a half a load till the next company of our brethren arrive. This is

-the object for which the new boat is being built. They will thus earn

-a good stock of provisions for themselves and be prepared to set the

-brethren of the next company over without delay and will also be able

-to preserve the boat for our use, for it is the instructions of the

-President that when they have ferried our brethren over to cache the

-boat and come on with them.

-

-Thursday, June 17

-

-The morning fine but windy and cold. The brethren renewed the ferrying

-early and soon after noon they had got the last wagon safely over

-which was a matter of rejoicing to all the camp. Two companies of the

-Missourians had arrived and made application to be set over at a dollar

-and a half a load. When the contract was made with the first company to

-be sent across as soon as our wagons were over, the other company of

-ten wagons offered to pay the brethren 50c per man extra if they would

-set them over first, making $5.00 over the stated price for ferriage

-being ten of the brethren to work at it. Colonel Rockwood had made a

-contract to the above effect with the first company and did not like to

-break it. However, he received a hint that this was Colonel Markham's

-day for the use of the boat and consequently Colonel Markham had a

-right to take the last offer if he chose. He took the hint and they

-went to work forthwith at a dollar and a half a wagon in provisions

-at Missouri prices and 50c extra per man in what they preferred for

-themselves. The afternoon and evening was very cold indeed with a very

-strong wind. After President Young and Kimball got their wagons over,

-being about the last, orders were given for the camp to come together

-and form the wagons in a circle near the ferry. It took till near dark

-before all the wagons got up. The ferrying was continued all night and

-till daylight at which time many of the Missourians' wagons in the two

-companies were over.

-

-Friday, June 18

-

-Morning very cold and windy. The brethren continued working at the

-new boat, others continued ferrying the Missourians' wagons over. It

-was concluded not to start today but wait and assist in finishing the

-boat and also to take the provisions on which will be realized from

-these two companies. After dinner, I went with brother Pack to fish

-in the last creek we crossed about a mile and a half distance. We

-found the fish numerous and had good luck. I caught sixty-five very

-nice ones which would average half a pound weight each. About six

-o'clock I started back but found I had got more than I could easily

-carry to camp. However, when I got about half way, Brother Cloward

-met me and helped to carry them. We arrived at the camp about sundown

-pretty well tired. The afternoon was very warm and pleasant. When we

-arrived the Twelve and some others were going to council. I went with

-them. The names of those who are appointed to tarry were read over as

-follows: Thomas Grover, John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, Appleton Harmon,

-Edmund Ellsworth, Francis M. Pomeroy, William Empey, James Davenport,

-and Benjamin F. Stewart. Thomas Grover was appointed captain. The

-President then referred to Brother Glines who was wishful to stay

-but the president said he had no council for him to tarry, but he

-might do as he had a mind to. Some explanations followed by Glines,

-but the unanimous feeling of the brethren was to have him go on. The

-President preached a short sermon for the benefit of the young elders.

-He represented them as being continually grasping at things ahead

-of them which belong to others. He said the way for young elders to

-enlarge their dominion and power is to go to the world and preach and

-then they can get a train and bring it up to the house of the Lord with

-them, etc. The letter of instructions was then read and approved by the

-brethren and the council was then dismissed.

-

-Saturday, June 19

-

-Morning fine but cool. At 7:50 the camp started out again in good

-health and spirits and the teams in very good order. It was remarked

-by several that their stock had fattened so much while stopping at

-the ferry, they hardly knew them. The grass appears to be rich and

-good. The first six miles of the road was nearly in a west direction

-over several considerably high bluffs. At that distance the road turns

-suddenly to the south and rises up a very high bluff which is upwards

-of a mile from the foot to the summit. There is some interesting

-scenery on the top of this bluff, especially a range of rough, coarse,

-sandy rocks of a dark brown color, rising abruptly above the surface

-of the land in huge masses and ranging east and west. The descent

-on the south side was rough, crooked and uneven, and about half way

-down was a bed of white earth mixed with black in places and others

-yellow. In one place you can pick up small fragments of rock of each

-color within a yard of each other. Towards the foot, the road is still

-more uneven and there are several steep pitches and rises. At one

-o'clock we halted for noon on a spot of good grass about a quarter of

-a mile from a small spring which is the first water we have come to

-since leaving the ferry which is eleven and a quarter miles. There

-is no timber nearer than the bluffs probably two miles away and that

-is small cedar and little of it. The Red Buttes are nearly opposite

-to this place towards the southeast and appear to be two high bluffs

-of red earth or sand, presenting a very triangular, yet interesting

-appearance. After stopping about an hour it was decided to move on

-to the spring and we started accordingly and found it to be a small

-stream of water rising out of the quick sands. At the distance of

-twelve miles from the ferry there is quite a lake of water supposed

-to be supplied by a spring. Indeed we could see the water boil up out

-of the mud in several places. The grass on the banks of this lake is

-good and plentiful but no timber within two miles or upwards. After

-watering teams at the lake, at ten minutes to three we continued our

-journey, bearing near a southwest course over rolling prairie. At the

-distance of eight miles from the spring there is a steep descent from

-a bluff and at the foot there is a high ridge of sharp pointed rocks

-running parallel with the road for near a quarter of a mile, leaving

-only sufficient space for wagons to pass. At the south point there is a

-very large rock lying close to where the road makes a bend, making it

-somewhat difficult to get by without striking it. The road is also very

-rough with cobble stones. At 7:40 we formed our encampment in a small

-spot surrounded by high bluffs, having traveled this afternoon ten

-and a quarter miles and during the day twenty-one and a half which is

-the longest distance we have traveled in one day since we left Winter

-Quarters, and this is considered by all to be the worst camping ground

-we have had on the journey, but we were obliged to take it for there

-is neither wood, grass, nor water since we left the spring. The land

-being perfectly sandy and barren, and nothing growing but wild sage and

-a small prickly shrub something like those on the moors in Lancashire,

-England. There is some grass in this place for our teams but no wood.

-The brethren have to make use of the wild sage and buffalo chips to do

-their cooking. There are two small streams of water, one appears to

-come from the northwest and is not very bad water; the other is from

-the southwest and is so bad that cattle will not drink it. It is strong

-of salt or rather saleratus and smells extremely filthy. Its banks are

-so perfectly soft that a horse or ox cannot go down to drink without

-sinking immediately nearly overhead in thick, filthy mud, and is one

-of the most horrid, swampy, stinking places I ever saw. It was found

-necessary to keep a guard out to prevent the cattle from getting into

-it and orders were given to drive them down a little east where feed is

-pretty good and it is not so dangerous of their miring. The mosquitoes

-are very bad indeed at this place which adds to the loathsome, solitary

-scenery around. Porter Rockwell returned from hunting soon after we had

-camped and reported that he had killed a fat buffalo about two miles

-off. A team was sent to fetch in the meat which they did not return

-till long after dark. Elder Kimball saw six buffalo while riding ahead

-to look out a camp ground. They are represented as being more tame.

-Myers killed two buffalo, but took only the tallow and tongues and left

-the rest to rot on the ground. John Norton and Andrew Gibbons left the

-camp at the springs and went out to hunt, expecting we should stay

-there till Monday. Gibbons has not been seen or heard of since. Norton

-has returned and reports that he has killed a buffalo and left it back

-not far from the spring. About nine o'clock there was an alarm that an

-ox had mired. He was nearly covered but soon got out again.

-

-Sunday, June 20

-

-Morning fine, mosquitoes very bad. Two more oxen found almost buried

-in the mud and all hands appeared wishful to leave this place and

-at a quarter past five o'clock we moved out. The first mile was bad

-traveling, there being several steep pitches in the road making it

-dangerous for axletrees. A number of the brethren went ahead with picks

-and spades and improved the road somewhat. After traveling three and

-three quarters miles we halted for breakfast at seven o'clock beside a

-small clear stream of spring water about a foot wide, but plenty for

-camping purposes. The feed on its banks good and plentiful but no wood

-yet. Elder Kimball states that when he and Elder Benson were riding

-ahead last evening to look out a camping ground they came within a

-quarter of a mile of this place but were not near enough to discover

-the water. A while before they arrived here, as they were riding

-slowly along, they saw six men suddenly spring up from the grass to

-the left of the road. The men were clothed in blankets some white and

-some blue and had every appearance of being Indians and the brethren

-thought they were Indians. The six mounted their horses and started on

-in a direction parallel with the road. The brethren also kept on their

-course. In a little while one of the supposed Indians left the rest

-and rode towards the brethren and motioned with his hand for them to

-go back. They, however, kept on and paid no attention to his motion.

-When he saw them still coming, he wheeled round and joined the others

-who all put spurs to their horses and were soon out of sight behind a

-higher piece of land. Soon as they were out of sight Elder Kimball and

-Benson spurred their horses and rode to the ridge and as they arrived

-there they discovered a camp of the Missourians about a quarter of a

-mile to the left of the road and the six Indians were just entering

-the camp. The brethren were now satisfied that these Indians were

-Missourians and had taken this plan to keep us back from this good camp

-ground. It is considered as an old Missouri trick and an insult to

-the camp, and if they undertake to play Indian again, it is more than

-likely they will meet with Indian treatment. Their camp left here a

-little before we arrived this morning and it is now President Young's

-intention to press on a little faster and crowd them up a little. We

-have learned from one of the emigrants a few miles in our rear that

-Andrew Gibbons tarried with their camp over night. When he returned to

-the spring and found our camp gone and the Missourians' camp there, he

-told them of the dead buffalo killed by Norton. They went and fetched

-what meat they wanted and feasted on it, he joining with them and

-faring well. At a quarter past nine we proceeded on our journey. After

-traveling three miles, we arrived at the Willow spring and halted a

-little while to get water. This spring is about two feet wide and the

-water ten inches deep, perfectly clear, cold as ice water, and very

-good tasting. There is a willow grove extending for some distance

-above and below it which will answer very well for firing purposes.

-The grass is good and plentiful and it is one of the loveliest camping

-spots I have seen on the journey, though the land where the stream runs

-below the spring is soft and some danger of cattle miring. The spring

-is situated between two very high hills and is about three rods west

-of the road and shielded from the sun by a bank about eight feet high

-and the willow grove. A little piece before we arrived at the spring

-there are two very deep ravines to cross, which requires some care

-on the part of the teamsters to prevent accidents. At a quarter of a

-mile beyond the spring we began to ascend a very high hill which was

-one mile from the foot to the top and the ascent pretty steep. The

-summit of this hill is nicely rounding and considered to be much the

-highest we have traveled over. From the top can be seen a vast extent

-of country to the south, west, and north. For about twenty or thirty

-miles to the south there appears to be a tolerably level bottom over

-which our future road runs. Beyond this there are vast ranges of high

-hills whose summits are spotted with snow. In the distance to the

-southwest can be seen a small body of water which we suppose to be a

-part of the Sweet Water river. To the west the ridges of rocks or hills

-appear nearer. They are probably not over fifteen miles from us. On the

-north we can see hills a long distance. The one opposite Red Buttes,

-near the spring where we halted yesterday noon, appears only a few

-miles distance. The view from this hill is one of romantic beauty which

-cannot easily be surpassed and as President Young remarked, would be a

-splendid place for a summer mansion to keep tavern. We then descended

-on the southwest corner of the hill and found it to be just one mile

-farther to the foot. At the distance of three quarters of a mile

-farther we found a good place for feed, being plenty of grass, but no

-water nor wood. At a mile and a quarter still farther we crossed a very

-bad slough which is about a rod across and following the road, nearly

-three feet deep in water and stiff mud. Most of the wagons crossed a

-little to the right of the road and found it not so difficult to cross,

-yet very soft. There is also plenty of good grass at this spot. A mile

-beyond this slough we ascended a very steep bluff though not very high

-and the descent on the southwest is also very steep. At 2:45 we halted

-to feed in a ravine where there is plenty of grass and a good stream

-of water about three hundred yards south from the road but destitute

-of wood. We have traveled this forenoon nine miles over barren, sandy

-land being no grass only in the spots above mentioned. During the halt

-it was decided that President Young take the lead with his wagon and

-try to proceed a little faster. At five o'clock we again proceeded, the

-President's wagon going first; all the others keeping their places.

-I will here remark that it is the order of our traveling for each

-company of ten to go forward in their turn. The first ten in the first

-division taking the lead one day, then on the second day it falls in

-the rear of the first division, the second ten takes the lead and this

-continues till each company of ten have taken the lead one day a piece.

-Then the first division falls in the rear of the second division which

-also begins by companies of ten to take the lead of the road as stated

-above and when each ten have had their day, the second division again

-falls in the rear of the first which continues in the same order. Thus

-every man has his equal privilege of traveling one with another. After

-traveling two and a half miles we descended to the bottom land again

-and saw a small stream a little to the left of the road where there

-is plenty of grass. One and three quarters miles farther we crossed a

-creek of tolerably clear water about six feet wide and one foot deep,

-but neither grass nor timber on its banks. After traveling seven miles

-this afternoon we turned off from the road to the left and at 8:20

-formed our encampment on a ridge near the last mentioned creek where

-there is good feed, having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter

-miles, exclusive of allowance for turning from the road, and during the

-day twenty miles. We had been in hopes of reaching the Sweet Water but

-it appears we are yet some miles from it. The whole country around is

-entirely destitute of timber, not a tree to be seen, nor a shrub larger

-than the wild sage which abounds in all this region of country and will

-answer for cooking when nothing else can be found. Some anxiety is

-felt on account of the absence of Elder Woodruff and John Brown. They

-started ahead this morning with instructions to go on about fifteen

-miles and if they found a good place to camp, to stay. They have not

-been seen or heard of since. It is supposed they have fallen in with

-some of the companies either forward or back and have concluded to

-tarry with them over night.

-

-Monday, June 21

-

-Morning very fine and warm. From this place we can see a huge pile

-of rocks to the southwest a few miles. We have supposed this to be

-the rock of Independence. After breakfast I went to view it and found

-that it was a vast pile of rocks extending from south to north about

-five hundred feet and in width, one hundred feet. The rocks are large

-and seem piled on one another with the edges up. There is no earth

-on the ridge but a little drift sand in which there are currant and

-rose bushes growing. I saw a large mouse on the top which had a long

-bushy tail like a squirrel. It sat up and acted in every respect like

-a squirrel, but in size and color resembled a mouse. At 8:35 the camp

-proceeded onward. After traveling three and a quarter miles we arrived

-on a bed of saleratus which was a quarter of a mile across and on which

-were several lakes of salt water. This place looks swampy and smells

-bad. The beds of saleratus smell like lime, but the saleratus itself

-is said to raise bread equal to the best bought in eastern markets.

-Lorenzo Young gathered a pail full in a short time with a view to test

-its qualities. Large quantities may be gathered in a short time and

-when pulverized it looks clean and nice. We are now satisfied that the

-water we saw from the hills yesterday must have been some of these

-lakes as the Sweet Water is not yet in sight, but these being high,

-show at a long distance. The water is not very salty but brackish and

-tastes sickly. It is reported by travelers that these are poisonous,

-but it is probable that all the poison there is about them is their

-salt causing cattle to drink freely when they can get no other water,

-and the more they drink, the more thirsty they get till they burst

-themselves, which is said to be the effect of drinking the poison,

-viz., to burst. As we passed along a little farther we saw another

-large lake to the left and one to the right of the same nature, their

-banks mostly white with saleratus. At twelve o'clock we arrived on

-the banks of the Sweet Water, having traveled seven and a half miles

-over a very sandy road destitute of wood, water or grass. The distance

-from the upper ferry of the Platte river to this place is forty-nine

-miles by the roadometer. There has formerly been a ford here but lately

-emigrants have found a better ford higher up the river. At this place

-the river is probably seven or eight rods wide and over three feet deep

-at the ford, but in some places it is much deeper still. The current

-is very swift, the water a little muddy, but pleasant tasting. By

-watching it closely it is easy to see on the surface numerous small

-bright particles floating which at first sight might be supposed to be

-salt, however the water itself has not the least saline taste. On the

-banks of the river there is plenty of good grass but destitute of wood

-there being only one solitary tree to be seen and that stands beside

-this fording place. The only chance for fuel appears to be the wild

-sage and other small shrubbery occasionally growing in spots on the low

-banks. After we halted, Sister Harriet Young made some bread using the

-lake saleratus and when baked was pronounced to raise the bread and

-taste equal to the best she had ever used and it requires less of this

-than the common saleratus. A number of the brethren went back during

-the halt and filled their pails with it calculating to make use of it

-during our future journey. The day has been very hot and no wind which

-makes it unpleasant traveling. Elder Woodruff and Brown again joined

-the camp on our arrival here and reported that they had spent the night

-in one of the gentile camps which are now some miles ahead of us. There

-are many high hills or ridges of the granite rock in the neighborhood,

-especially in the east and west, all entirely destitute of vegetation

-and which present a very wild and desolate as well as romantic aspect.

-I can describe their appearance only by saying that it seems as though

-giants had in by-gone days taken them in wheelbarrows of tremendous

-size and wheeled up in large heaps, masses of heavy clay which has

-consolidated and become solid, hard rock. The rock Independence lies

-a little west of where we have halted and after dinner I went to view

-it as well as many others. It lies on the north bank of the river in

-this shape: The extreme southeast corner reaches to within about three

-rods of the river and runs in a direction northwest while the river

-at this place runs nearly a west course. It is composed of the same

-barren granite as other masses in this region and is probably 400 yards

-long, 80 yards wide and 100 yards in perpendicular height as near as

-I could guess. The ascent is difficult all around. Travelers appear

-to have ascended it mostly at the southeast corner where there are

-some hundreds of names of persons who have visited it, both male and

-female, painted on the projecting surfaces with black, red, and some

-with yellow paint. About half way up there is a cavern about twelve

-feet long and three feet wide at the bottom but at the top about ten

-feet wide and eight feet high, formed by a very large heavy mass of

-rock having sometime fallen over an opening or cavity leaving scarcely

-room enough for a man to enter. However there are three places by which

-it may be entered though not without difficulty. There are a number

-of names inside the cavern put on with black paint, doubtless being

-the names of persons who have visited it. On the top of the rock the

-surface is a little rounding something like a large mound with large

-masses of loose rock lying scattered around. Proceeding forward you

-descend, when nearly half way of the length, to a considerably lower

-surface which continues some distance and then rises high again to

-about the same height as the first section. On the top there are a

-number of small pools of water, no doubt collected during heavy rains

-and having no chance to run off, they stand until evaporated into the

-atmosphere. Some of the pools are eight inches deep and taste like rain

-water. It is more difficult descending from the rock than to ascend

-it on account of its being hard and slippery and nothing to hang on,

-and a visitor has to be careful or he will arrive on the ground with

-bruised limbs. At three o'clock p.m. they started on and on arriving

-at the rock found it to be one and a quarter miles from noon halt. We

-put up a guide board opposite the rock with this inscription on it.

-"To Fort John 1751/4 miles. Pioneers, June 21, 1847. W. R." The

-letters W. R. are branded on all the guide boards at the doctor's

-request so as to have a mark that the Saints might know; and his

-brand is generally known by the Saints. After traveling on the banks

-of the river one mile beyond the rock, we forded over and found it

-nearly three feet deep in the channel. All the wagons got over without

-difficulty or much loss of time. We then continued a southwest course

-four and a half miles farther and arrived opposite Devil's Gate which

-lies a little to the west of the road; and a quarter of a mile beyond

-this, the road passes between two high ridges of granite, leaving a

-surface of about two rods of level ground on each side the road. The

-road then bends to the west and a quarter of a mile farther, passes

-over a small creek two feet wide but bad crossing on account of its

-being deep and muddy, requiring caution in the teamsters to prevent

-accident. President Young, Kimball and others went to view the north

-side of Devil's Gate and returning reported that the devils would not

-let them pass, or meaning that it was impossible to go through the

-gateway so called. We proceeded on a little farther and at 6:35 formed

-our encampment on the bank of the river having traveled this afternoon

-seven and three quarters miles, and during the day fifteen and a

-quarter. The feed here is good and plentiful and a little cedar can

-be obtained at the foot of one of the rocky ridges about a quarter of

-a mile back. After we had camped I went back to view the Devil's Gate

-where the river runs between two high rocky ridges for the distance of

-about 200 yards. The rock on the east side is perpendicular and was

-found by a barometrical measurements by Elder Pratt to be 399 feet 41/4

-inches high. The one on the west side is about the same height but

-not perpendicular bending a little from the river gradually to the

-top. The river has a channel of about three rods in width through this

-pass which increases its swiftness and, dashing furiously against the

-huge fragments of rock which have fallen from the mountain, makes

-a roar which can be heard plainly in the camp. One of the brethren

-fired off his rifle at the foot of the rock and the report resembled

-much like that of a cannon. Others tumbled fragments of rocks from a

-projection at the entrance about 150 feet high, which made a very loud

-rumbling sound caused by the echoes. The scenery is one of romantic

-grandeur and it seems wonderful how the river could ever find a channel

-through such a mass of heavy, solid rock. The view from this evening's

-encampment over the surrounding country is sublime. To the east, south,

-and southwest the Sweet Water mountains tower high and appear spotted

-with snow; and about twenty to thirty miles distance from the river to

-the west are also hills and ridges interspersed as far as the eye can

-reach, except the land immediately on the river which appears even for

-many miles. These high, barren, rocky ridges on the north side of the

-river seem to continue for many miles.

-

-Tuesday, June 22

-

-Morning fine. At 7:20 we continued our journey and about 200 yards

-from where we camped, crossed a very crooked creek about six feet wide

-descending from the southwest. After traveling three miles over heavy,

-sandy roads, we crossed another creek about six feet wide; and three

-and three quarters miles farther, a creek two feet wide. Somewhere near

-this last creek, Brother Lorenzo Young broke one of his axle trees

-which detained him some time. One of the Missourian companies came up

-soon after the accident and took his load into one of their wagons and

-by splicing a piece of wood on his axle tree, he was enabled to follow

-our camp. At 11:55 we halted on the banks of the river, having traveled

-ten miles over a very sandy, barren land, there being no grass only

-on the creeks and river banks. During the halt, Elder Pratt took an

-observation and found the latitude of this place 42 deg. 28' 25". President

-Young went back to meet Lorenzo but soon found he was coming on with

-the Missourian company who were approaching near us. He immediately

-turned about and on arriving back gave orders to get up the teams and

-proceed so as to keep ahead of the other company who say they have

-traveled from Independence Rock without halting. However, they passed

-before we could start and got ahead of us. The day has been hot and

-a little wind. At 2:25 we continued, finding the road again leaving

-the river. At half a mile, we passed a very large lake on our left

-which covers an area of over 80 acres of land. Its banks are mostly

-white with the alkali or saleratus. After passing this lake the road

-runs south, passing between high sandy bluffs after which it again

-turns around gradually towards the west and descending a steep bluff

-over very heavy, sandy land. After traveling five and three quarters

-miles crossed a creek about six feet wide and a foot deep. The bank on

-each side is very steep and sandy, making it difficult for teams to

-get up. Here Sterling Driggs had his harness broken to pieces by his

-horses springing suddenly when attempting to rise out of the creek.

-They cleared themselves from the wagon which was hauled up by a yoke

-of oxen so as not to hinder the rest from crossing. The banks of this

-creek are well lined with sage instead of grass which is very large and

-thick on the ground on account of which Elder Kimball named this Sage

-creek. After passing this creek one and three quarters miles we again

-arrived on the banks of the river and continued to travel near to it.

-At two and a quarter miles farther crossed a creek three feet wide, but

-not much to be depended on for water. At 7:50 we formed our encampment

-at the foot of a very high gravelly bluff and near the river, having

-traveled this afternoon ten and three quarters miles and during the day

-twenty and three quarters miles over mostly a very sandy road. This

-is a very good camp ground, there being plenty of grass for our teams

-which is well worth traveling a few miles extra. From this place the

-country seems fortified by hills and mountains especially on the west.

-Lewis Barney and Joseph Hancock have each killed an antelope during the

-day, but there appears to be no buffalo in the neighborhood.

-

-Wednesday, June 23

-

-Morning fine and warm. After breakfast I went to the top of the

-high bluff expecting to get a good view of the country west but

-was disappointed in consequence of the many ridges or bluffs but a

-little distance beyond us. At seven o'clock the camp moved forward

-and immediately after saw a graveyard on the left of the road with a

-board stuck up with these words written on it: "Matilda Crowley. B.

-July 16th, 1830, and D. July 7, 1846." On reflecting afterward that

-some of the numerous emigrants who had probably started with a view

-to spend the remainder of their days in the wild Oregon, had fallen

-by the way and their remains had to be left by their friends far from

-the place of destination, I felt a renewed anxiety that the Lord will

-kindly preserve the lives of all my family, that they may be permitted

-to gather to the future home of the Saints, enjoy the society of the

-people of God for many years to come, and when their days are numbered

-that their remains may be deposited at the feet of the servants of God,

-rather than be left far away in a wild country. And oh, Lord, grant

-this sincere desire of thy servant in the name of Thy Son Jesus. Amen.

-After traveling one and a half miles we crossed a very shoal stream of

-clear, cold water about five feet wide. There is but little grass here

-although a number of bitter cottonwood trees grow on the banks. There

-being no name on the map for this creek, it was named Bitter Cottonwood

-Creek to designate it in our future travel. It is probable that this

-stream is caused by the melting of the snow on the mountains and if

-so, could not be depended on for a camp ground late in the summer.

-After passing this creek, the river runs between some of the high

-rocky ridges, the road at the same time bending a little southwest to

-pass around them. After traveling five miles beyond the last mentioned

-creek, we again descended to the banks of the river where would be a

-pretty good camp ground although the grass is not so plentiful as in

-many other places on the banks of the river. We traveled till 11:05 on

-the river banks then halted for noon where the road and river separated

-a little farther and hence we would probably not find grass again for a

-number of miles. The land continues very sandy making it hard on teams;

-our course about west, the day very warm with a light south breeze.

-We traveled eight and a half miles this morning. There are some small

-cedar trees on the rocky bluffs which is the only timber seen since we

-passed the Bitter Cottonwood. Latitude of this place 42 deg. 31' 20". At

-1:10 we continued our journey and after proceeding half a mile, found

-the river turns between the granite ridges in a northwest direction and

-seems to have but a narrow space to pass through in several places. The

-road at the same place turns south to avoid the ridges for over a mile

-and then bends to the southwest for some distance farther. The road at

-the foot of these rocky hills is extremely sandy and heavy traveling.

-On arriving at the south side of the hills, we were suddenly cheered

-with a very plain view of the Wind river chain of the Rocky Mountains

-towering high up in the air and perfectly white with snow. Some of

-the peaks appear to run up very high, but we are evidently many miles

-from them yet. After we passed this place, the road gradually bends to

-the west and northwest and at the distance of six and three quarters

-miles from our noon halt brings us to the banks of the river again. We

-continued on the banks of the river till 6:20, at which time we formed

-our encampment, having traveled this afternoon eight and a half miles

-and during the day seventeen. As usual there is plenty of grass on the

-river banks but no wood. There are some dry buffalo chips and wild sage

-which answer tolerably well for cooking. The land over which we have

-traveled, except in the several places above mentioned, is perfectly

-barren except for wild sage which abounds, but there is scarcely a

-spear of grass to be seen. These granite ridges continue from the Rock

-Independence to this place, mostly on the north side the river. Here

-they recede from the river a few miles and then cease. There are two of

-the Missourian companies camped, one about a half a mile and the other

-a mile west of us and we are given to understand we have got a long

-distance to travel without grass or water. It is stated that a man from

-one of these companies left his company a few days ago and went ahead

-to examine the route, etc. On their arrival here they found him in one

-of these rocky hills hid up for fear of the Indians. He reports that he

-has been to the pass and that we shall find water about fourteen miles

-from here. He has come from the pass in two nights and hid up in the

-day time to avoid Indians, but has seen none. He says it is not over

-twenty-eight miles to the pass from here. After we camped, Burr Frost

-set up his forge and set some wagon tires and repaired the wheels of

-the wagons for one of the Missourians. There are no buffalo to be seen

-yet and not much game of any kind. Lewis Barney killed two antelope

-and the brethren mostly killed one or two every day. The Sweet Water

-mountains do not appear very high but have considerable snow lying on

-them in some places. They appear to run nearly parallel with the river

-to about from twenty to thirty miles distance to the south.

-

-Thursday, June 24

-

-Morning fine but cool. It was calculated to make an early start so as

-to pass the two companies of the Missourians and get the best chance

-for feed at night, but they started out a half an hour before we were

-ready. We proceeded onward at 6:15 and a little over a mile from where

-we camped, found the river again bending northwest while the road

-continues near a west course and soon rises a high bluff. On the top of

-this, we appear to have a level road for many miles. After traveling

-five miles from morning, we arrived at a level strip of land on the

-north side of the road where there is plenty of grass and apparently

-swampy and soft. It extends in the same direction with the road a

-mile and a half and appears to terminate where the road crosses the

-lower land although the grass and hollow continue southward for some

-distance. Just above where the road crosses at the west end there is

-some water standing around a small, circular, swampy spot of land

-probably about a half an acre. Near the edge at the northwest corner is

-a hole dug which is called the Ice Spring. The water in the hole smells

-strong of sulphur or alkali and is not pleasant tasting, but under the

-water which is over a foot deep there is as clear ice as I ever saw and

-good tasting. Some of the brethren had broken some pieces off which

-floated and I ate some of it which tasted sweet and pleasant. The ice

-is said to be four inches thick. The water is very cold although the

-weather is warm. A quarter of a mile farther than the spring, there is

-a small lake or spring of alkali on the left of the road and a little

-farther, still another lake. The latter is more pleasant tasting than

-the other, not being so strong of sulphur. It tastes very much like

-lye water mixed with salt. The ground around these lakes is white with

-alkali or saleratus and a number of the brethren picked up their pails

-full but we have learned that it ought to be used with care, it being

-so much stronger than common saleratus, if the same quantity is used

-it makes the bread quite green. After traveling from the ice spring

-ten and a quarter miles over a very uneven road, we descended a very

-steep bluff close in the rear of one of the Missourian companies. The

-other had halted a few miles ahead and we passed by them. While winding

-around and descending from this bluff we came in sight of the river

-again and about the same time. Elder Kimball picked up an Indian arrow

-point made of flint stone and nearly perfect. It was almost as white

-as alabaster. At 3:30 we tarried a little south from the road and

-formed our encampment in a line so as to enclose a bend in the river,

-having traveled seventeen and three quarters miles without halting on

-account of there being no water fit for cattle to drink. The feed here

-is very good and plenty of willow bushes for fuel. The river is about

-three rods wide and clearer and very cool. The last five or six miles

-of the road were not so sandy but hard and good traveling. One of the

-Missourian companies have gone on, but the other camped a piece down

-the river at the fording place. A while before dark when the brethren

-were fetching up their teams, John Holman, while bringing up President

-Young's best horse, having his loaded rifle in his hand, the horse

-undertook to run back past him and to prevent his running back, he

-jammed his gun at him. The cock caught in his clothes, the gun went off

-lodging the ball in the animal's body. It entered a little forward of

-the nigh hind leg on the under side of his belly making quite a large

-hole. The horse walked to camp but it is the opinion of many he cannot

-survive long. He appears to be in great pain, the sweat falling from

-his forehead in large drops. President Young is evidently filled with

-deep sorrow on account of this accident but attaches no blame to John

-who seems grieved very much. The brethren generally feel sorrowful,

-this being the second horse shot by accident on this mission.

-

-Friday, June 25

-

-President Young's horse is dead. The morning is fine but very cool. At

-twenty minutes to seven o'clock, we pursued our journey fording the

-river a quarter of a mile below where AVC left the road last night.

-We found it still nearly three feet deep and the current very swift.

-After proceeding a half a mile beyond the ford, we crossed a stream

-about a rod wide which appears to come from the northeast and empties

-into the river a little farther up. Half a mile beyond this stream, we

-turned from the river to the northwest and began to ascend a very high

-bluff which we found pretty steep and over a mile and a half to the

-top. The road then gradually bends around towards the river and begins

-to descend over hill and hollow and at four and a quarter miles from

-where we camped, strikes the river again and continues a quarter of a

-mile on its banks. Here would be a pretty good place to camp, there

-being sufficient grass for a large company. After traveling a quarter

-of a mile near the river we encountered another high sandy ridge, the

-road again winding to the north to cross it. The descent on the west

-side is very steep and unpleasant. We strike the river again after

-traveling one and a quarter miles from where we last left it, but it

-is the opinion of many that by fording the river twice at the foot of

-the ridge we could save a mile and they think it can be forded. Colonel

-Rockwood has paid particular attention to the place and reports that

-one hour's labor for 100 men would dig down the foot of the ridge so as

-to make it good passing and save rising the ridge and a mile's travel

-without fording the river. After leaving the west foot of this ridge,

-we crossed a stream about twenty-five feet wide and again a quarter of

-a mile farther the same, only about six feet wide. On examining it, we

-found it to be a branch of the river running around a piece of land

-about a quarter of a mile across and forming a semi-circular island.

-The last crossing was soft on both banks. The high sandy bluffs on

-each side the river seem to approach much nearer to each other and

-leave only a small strip of low land on each bank. At 11:20 passed

-a creek two feet wide and halted for noon having traveled eight and

-three quarters miles, the wind blowing very strong from the northwest

-and making it cold and unpleasant traveling and filling the wagons

-with dust. The latitude at this halt by Elder Pratt's observation

-is 42 deg. 28' 36". At 1:20 we proceeded again, our road running on the

-river banks two miles then turning to the northwest and ascending a

-succession of hills one after another for three miles farther, winding

-around and over hill and valley in some places over a good hard road,

-and in other places over rocks and broken fragments of rock, making it

-severe on wagons and requiring great care in teamsters. About a half

-mile north of the road at the top of this ridge there is a heavy bank

-of snow which some of the brethren went to visit and amused themselves

-by snowballing each other. Brother Carrington says there is every

-appearance of a rich lead mine in the same place, he having examined

-the place minutely. The brethren brought some snow to the wagons and we

-ate some of it which tasted refreshing in the heat of the day. After

-arriving on the top of these ridges we began to descend gradually over

-rolling land, but the descent is not nearly equal to the ascent. At

-the distance of seven and a quarter miles from noon halt, we crossed

-a narrow wet swamp quite difficult for teams to get the loads over

-without help and one and a quarter miles beyond the swamp a creek a

-foot wide and a quarter of a mile farther still another one two feet

-wide. These all unite in one about 200 yards to the left below the

-middle creek and then appear to pass under a snow bank which at present

-forms a kind of bridge over the creek. At 6:45 we formed our encampment

-on the north banks of a creek about five feet wide, having traveled

-this afternoon eleven and a half miles and during the day twenty and a

-quarter. This creek is very clear and cold. Its banks are well lined

-with willows and about a mile below the camp there is a grove of white

-poplar in which house logs may be obtained sixteen feet long and a foot

-through. There are several banks of snow a little to the north and some

-of the brethren have found ice four or five inches thick and brought

-a quantity of it to camp. On the banks of the creek there are some

-groves of gooseberry bushes with small green berries on them. There are

-also some strawberry roots and flowers and a little white clover has

-been found, but there is yet no appearance of the great abundance of

-such things as travelers have represented. The land appears somewhat

-more likely to yield the nearer we approach to the mountains, but all

-calculations for farming in this region would be likely to fail on

-account of the scarcity of timber. It would only be natural to suppose

-that the nights are very cold here, while so much snow lies around. It

-requires considerable clothing to keep comfortable, but in the middle

-of the day it is equally hot. Some of the brethren have traveled up the

-banks of the Sweet Water river and represent it as tumbling and foaming

-over rocks and descending very rapidly on account of the great rise of

-the ground from noon halt to this place. They say it runs within a mile

-and a half south of this but it is probable it is only a branch of it

-as we are evidently not near the main branch yet. There is one of the

-gentile companies camped about a mile below, making the third company

-we have passed lately and it is the intention to keep ahead of them and

-have the advantage of the good feed and camping grounds.

-

-Saturday, June 26

-

-Morning very cold and considerable ice froze in the water pails during

-the night. At 7:40 we crossed the creek and pursued our journey. At one

-mile we passed a small creek which rises from springs a little south

-of the road where there is a small grove of small timber. Elder Pratt

-has gone ahead with the barometer to try to find the culminating point

-or highest dividing ridge of the South Pass as we are evidently at the

-east foot of the pass. Fremont represents that he did not discover the

-highest point on account of the ascent being so gradual that they were

-beyond it before they were aware of it, although in company with a man

-who has traveled it back and forth for seventeen years. At two and

-three-quarters miles beyond the last small creek, we crossed the branch

-of the Sweet Water about two rods wide and two feet deep, the water

-clear and cold. This would be a good camp ground were it not so cold,

-as it must be from the fact that large deep banks of snow are now lying

-on its banks both above and below the road. Where the snow doesn't lie,

-there is good grass and plenty of willow groves for fuel. Two and a

-quarter miles beyond this branch we crossed another stream about eight

-feet wide on an average, though where the ford is, it is nearly three

-rods wide and two feet deep. This water is also very clear and the

-banks well lined with willows and grass. It is considered a superior

-camping ground to the one back. There seem to be a great many antelope

-at the foot of the mountains which is about all the game to be seen.

-After crossing the last stream, we climb another high range of hills

-over a good road, gently rolling. From the top of this is a pleasant

-view of the surrounding country but all entirely destitute of timber

-except on and at the base of the mountains many miles distance from the

-road. We have also a good view of Table Rock to the southwest as well

-as the high, broken, white capped chain of the Wind River mountains on

-the north. At 12:40 we halted on the main branch of the Sweet Water

-having traveled eleven miles. The river here is about three rods wide,

-three feet deep and current very swift. The water is clear and cold as

-the snow which lies on its banks in places six or eight feet deep. This

-is a lovely place for a camp ground, there being abundance of good,

-rich grass about eight inches high and plenty of willows for fuel.

-Some of the boys and girls amused themselves by snowballing each other

-on one of the large snow banks a few rods below the camp. Soon after

-we halted Eric Glines came up, having left the brethren at the upper

-ferry on the Platte River on Wednesday morning. He camped one night

-alone, the other nights he camped with Missourians. He does not assign

-any reason why he followed us, but evidently considering to repent and

-obey council than to continue obstinate and rebellious. The weather is

-now warm and pleasant and but little wind. At 2:20 we moved onward,

-ascending again on pretty high land where we found good traveling. The

-latitude at our noon halt was 42 deg. 22' 42". After traveling seven miles

-this afternoon we arrived on a level spot of lower land and some grass,

-and inasmuch as we have found no stream as laid down on Fremont's map

-since leaving the Sweet Water, neither is there much appearance of any

-for some miles farther, the wagons halted while President Young and

-some others went over the ridge to the north to look for a camp ground

-as some of the brethren said the Sweet Water was close by. President

-Young soon sent a message for the camp to proceed, leaving the road

-and taking a northwest course. At 6:45 we formed our encampment on the

-banks of the Sweet Water, at the distance of a little over a quarter

-of a mile from the road, having traveled this afternoon seven and a

-quarter miles, and during the day eighteen and a quarter. This is a

-good place to camp, there being plenty of grass and willows. There

-are many small pebbles of hard flint rock on the flat land a little

-back and some almost as clear as glass. Elders Kimball, Pratt and

-some others are some miles ahead and not having returned at dark, a

-number of the brethren were sent to meet them. They soon returned in

-company with Elder Kimball who reported that he had been on as much as

-six miles to where the head waters of the Atlantic divide from those

-of the Pacific--that Elder Pratt was camped there with a small

-party of men direct from Oregon and bound for the U. S. It is now

-a certainty that we are yet two miles short of the dividing ridge of

-the South Pass by the road. This ridge divides the headwaters of the

-Atlantic from those of the Pacific and although not the highest land

-we have traveled over, it may with propriety be said to be the summit

-of the South Pass. The Wind River mountains appear very high from this

-place but on the south there is very little appearance of mountains,

-Table Rock itself appearing but a little elevated.

-

-Sunday, June 27

-

-Morning fine but cold. The ox teams started at five minutes to eight

-and the remainder shortly after. We soon met eight of the Oregon men

-on their way back having over twenty horses and mules with them mostly

-laden with packs of robes, skins, etc. Several of the brethren sent

-letters back by them. At two and three-quarters miles, arrived at the

-dividing ridge where Elder Pratt took a barometrical observation and

-found the altitude 7,085 feet above the level of the sea. This spot

-is 2781/2 miles from Fort John and is supposed to divide the Oregon

-and Indian Territory by a line running north and south. At two miles

-farther we arrived at where Elder Pratt camped last night on the head

-waters of the Green River and although the stream is small, we have

-the satisfaction of seeing the current run west instead of east. The

-face of the country west looks level except far in the distance where

-a range of mountains peers up, their surface white with snow. There

-is good grass here but no timber nor in fact any in sight except on

-the mountains. Since leaving the pass we have descended considerably,

-winding around and between high bluffs or hills, but the road is good.

-One of the Oregon men is returning with us today and then intends to

-wait for the next companies, etc., and act as a pilot for them. His

-name is Harris and he appears to be extensively known in Oregon and

-the subject of much dispute on account of his having found out a new

-route to Oregon much south of the old one. He appears to be a man of

-intelligence and well acquainted with the western country. He presented

-a file of the Oregon papers commencing with February 11, 1847, and five

-following numbers for our perusal during the day. He also presented

-a number of the California Star published at Yerba Buena by Samuel

-Brannan and edited by E. P. Jones. I had the privilege of perusing

-several of these papers during the day but found little interesting

-news. Mr. Harris says he is well acquainted with the Bear River valley

-and the region around the salt lake. From his description, which is

-very discouraging, we have little chance to hope for even a moderately

-good country anywhere in those regions. He speaks of the whole region

-as being sandy and destitute of timber and vegetation except the wild

-sage. He gives the most favorable account of a small region under the

-Bear River mountains called the Cache Valley where they have practiced

-caching their robes, etc., to hide them from the Indians. He represents

-this as being a fine place to winter cattle. After halting some time

-we proceeded onward and crossed the stream which is about three feet

-wide, then halted on its banks at twelve o'clock, having traveled six

-and a quarter miles, the day warm. The latitude at this halt was 42 deg.

-18' 58". At 2:25 we started again and proceeded over gently rolling

-land and good hard road till 6:40 when we formed our encampment on the

-west banks of the Dry Sandy, having traveled this afternoon nine miles

-and during the day fifteen and a quarter. The country west for many

-miles appears destitute of timber and the view is very extensive. There

-is very little grass to be seen anywhere and not much near this creek.

-There is but little water in the creek at first sight, but by digging

-and tramping on the quick sand, sufficient can easily be obtained to

-supply a large company. Elder Kimball has been on the road nearly two

-miles farther but discovered no chance for a camping ground better

-than this. Mr. Harris has described a valley forty miles above the

-mouth of the Bear River, and thirty miles below the Bear Springs which

-might answer our purpose pretty well if the report is true. It is about

-thirty miles long and fifteen miles wide and tolerably well timbered.

-We generally feel that we shall know best by going ourselves for the

-reports of travelers are so contradictory it is impossible to know

-which is the truth without going to prove it. It is three years today

-since our brethren Joseph and Hyrum were taken from us and it was the

-general feeling to spend the day in fasting and prayer but the gentile

-companies being close in our rear and feed scarce, it was considered

-necessary to keep ahead of them for the benefit of our teams, but many

-minds have reverted back to the scenes at Carthage jail, and it is a

-gratification that we have so far prospered in our endeavors to get

-from under the grasp of our enemies.

-

-Monday, June 28

-

-Morning fine but cool. Many of the brethren are trading with Mr. Harris

-for pants, jackets, shirts, etc., made of buckskins and also the skins

-themselves. He sells them high. The skins at $1.50 and $2.00; a pair

-of pants $3.00, etc. He will take rifles, powder, lead, caps or calico

-and domestic shirts in exchange but puts his own price on both sides

-and it is difficult to obtain even a fair trade. At half past seven we

-proceeded on our journey, Mr. Harris waiting for the other companies.

-After traveling six miles the road forks, one continuing a west course,

-the other taking a southwest course. We took the left hand road which

-leads to California. This junction of the road is 2971/2 miles from Fort

-John. We then continued to travel over a desert land yielding nothing

-but wild sage and occasionally a grass root and weeds until 1:30 when

-we arrived and halted for noon on the banks of the Little Sandy,

-having traveled thirteen and a half miles without signs of wood, water

-or feed for our teams. This stream is about twenty feet wide on an

-average but at the fording place over three rods, two and a half feet

-deep, muddy water and swift current. There is not much grass and no

-timber except willow bushes. There is a variety of roots bearing very

-handsome colored flowers. One of the brethren has picked up a large

-piece of petrified wood. It resembles the outside layer of a cottonwood

-tree next to the bark, and appears to have rotted and broken off short

-then petrified and turned to a solid, heavy, hard, flint stone, but

-retaining its original shape and appearance. At 4:15 we commenced

-fording the river and found it in no way difficult until a number of

-the wagons had gotten over and the banks began to be soft and muddy.

-Several of the latter teams required help. At 4:45 all were safely

-over with no loss except two tar buckets considered to be of no worth.

-We then proceeded on, expecting to go about eight miles farther, but

-after traveling a little over a mile we were met by Elder G. A.

-Smith who introduced us to Mr. Bridger of Bridger's Fort on his way to

-Fort John in company with two of his men. Mr. Bridger being informed

-that we had designed to call at his place to make some inquiries

-about the country, etc., he said if we would turn off the road here

-and camp, he would stay with us till morning. A camping place being

-selected we turned off from the road about a quarter of a mile and

-formed our encampment near the Sandy at six o'clock, having traveled

-this afternoon one and three-quarters miles, exclusive of allowance

-for leaving the road, and during the day fifteen and a quarter miles.

-We have pretty good feed here, enough to fill the teams well. A while

-after we camped, the twelve and several others went to Mr. Bridger to

-make some inquiries concerning our future route, the country, etc. It

-was impossible to form a correct idea of either from the very imperfect

-and irregular way he gave his descriptions, but the general items are

-in substance as follows:

-

-We will find better grass as we proceed farther on. His business is to

-Fort Laramie. His traders have gone there with robes, skins, etc., to

-fill a contract, but having started later than they intended the men at

-Laramie have taken advantage of the delay and he is going to see to the

-business himself. There is no blacksmith shop at his fort at present.

-There was one but it was destroyed. There have been nearly a hundred

-wagons gone on the Hastings route through Weber's Fork. They cross the

-Blacks Fork and go a little south of west from his place and pass below

-the mountains which cross Green river. The Green river runs over an

-extent of country of 400 miles. It is impossible for wagons to follow

-down Green river, neither can it be followed with boats. Some have gone

-down with canoes, but had great difficulty getting back on account of

-the rapid current and rough channel. Cannot pass the mountains close

-to the river even with horses. For some distance beyond this chain of

-mountains, the country is level and beyond that it is hard black rock

-which looks as if it were glazed when the sun shines on it, and so

-hard and sharp it will cut a horse's feet to pieces. When we get below

-the mountains, the Green River falls into a level country for some

-distance after which it winds through a mountainous country perfectly

-barren to the Gulf of California. From Bridger's fort to the salt lake,

-Hastings said was about one hundred miles. He has been through fifty

-times but can form no correct idea of the distance. Mr. Hastings' route

-leaves the Oregon route at his place. We can pass the mountains farther

-south, but in some places we would meet with heavy bodies of timber

-and would have to cut our way through. In the Bear River valley there

-is oak timber, sugar trees, cottonwood, pine and maple. There is not

-an abundance of sugar maple but plenty of as splendid pine as he ever

-saw. There is no timber on the Utah Lake only on the streams which

-empty into it. In the outlet of the Utah Lake which runs into the salt

-lake there is an abundance of blue grass and red and white clover. The

-outlet of the Utah Lake does not form a large river, neither a rapid

-current but the water is muddy and low banks. Some of his men have been

-around the salt lake in canoes. They went out hunting and had their

-horses stolen by the Indians. They then went around the lake in canoes

-hunting beaver and were three months going around it. They said it

-was 550 miles around it. The Utah tribe of Indians inhabit the region

-around the Utah Lake and are a bad people. If they catch a man alone

-they are sure to rob and abuse him if they don't kill him, but parties

-of men are in no danger. They are mostly armed with guns. There was

-a man opened a farm in the Bear River valley. The soil is good and

-likely to produce corn were it not for the excessive cold nights which

-he thinks would prevent the growth of corn. There is a good country

-south of the Utah Lake or southeast of the great basin. There are three

-large rivers which enter into the Sevier Lake unknown to travelers.

-There is also a splendid range of country on the north side of the

-California mountains calculated to produce every kind of grain and

-fruit and there are several places where a man might pass from it over

-the mountains to the California settlements in one day. There is a vast

-abundance of timber and plenty of coal. There is also plenty of coal

-in this region near the mountains. North of the California mountains

-there is walnut, oak, ash, hickory, and various kinds of good timber on

-and in the neighborhood of the mountains and streams southeast of the

-great basin. There can be a wagon road made through to it and no lack

-of water. The great desert extends from the salt lake to the Gulf of

-California which is perfectly barren. He supposes it to have been an

-arm of the sea. The three rivers before mentioned are southwest of the

-desert. There is a tribe of Indians in that country who are unknown to

-either travelers or geographers. They make farms and raise abundance

-of grain of various kinds. He can buy any quantity of the very best of

-wheat there. This country lies southeast of the salt lake. There is one

-mountain in that region and the country adjoining in which he considers

-if ever there was a promised land, that must be it. There is a kind of

-cedar grows on it which bears fruit something like juniper berries of

-a yellow color about the size of an ordinary plum. The Indians grind

-the fruit and it makes the best kind of meal. He could easily gather a

-hundred bushels off one tree. He has lived on this fruit and used to

-pick his hat full in a very short time. There are a great many little

-streams head in this mountain and many good springs. It is about twenty

-days' travel with horses from the salt lake, but the country to it is

-bad to get through and over a great part of it, nothing for animals to

-subsist on. He supposes there might be access to it from Texas. On one

-of the rivers there is a splendid copper mine, a whole mountain of it.

-It also abounds in gold, silver and has a good quick silver mine. There

-is iron, coal, etc. The land is good; the soil rich. All the valleys

-abound with persimmons and grapes which will make the best kind of

-wines. He never saw any grapes on the Utah Lake, but there are plenty

-of cherries and berries of several kinds. He thinks the Utah Lake is

-the best country in the vicinity of the Salt Lake and the country is

-still better the farther south we go until we meet the desert which

-is upwards of 200 miles south from the Utah Lake. There is plenty of

-timber on all the streams and mountains and abundance of fish in the

-streams. There is timber all around the Utah Lake and plenty of good

-grass; not much of the wild sage only in small patches. Wild flax

-grows in most of the valleys and they are the richest lands. He passed

-through that country a year ago last summer in the month of July, and

-they generally had one or two showers every day, sometimes a very

-heavy thunder shower but not accompanied by strong wind. By following

-under the mountain south of the Utah Lake we find another river which

-enters into another lake about fifty miles south of the Utah Lake. We

-shall find plenty of water from here to Bridger's Fort except after

-we cross Green River and travel five miles beyond it where we shall

-have to travel eighteen or twenty miles without water, but there is

-plenty of grass. After crossing Green River we follow down it four or

-five miles to the old station then cross over to a stream which heads

-in the mountains west. The station is more than half way from here to

-his place. We shall have no streams to ferry between here and the fort

-except Green River. The Indians south of the Utah Lake and this side

-the desert raise corn, wheat and other kinds of grain and produce in

-abundance. The Utah's abound more on the west of the mountains near the

-salt lake than on the east side, ten to one, but we have no need to

-fear them for we can drive the whole of them in twenty-four hours but

-he would not kill them, he would make slaves of them. The Indians south

-of the Utah Lake raise as good corn, wheat, and pumpkins as were ever

-raised in old Kentucky. He knows of a lead mine between the mountains

-and Laramie on a timbered creek near the Horseshoe creek. He has found

-lead there and thinks there is considerable silver in it. It can be

-found in a cave on the side of the mountain not far from the road.

-

-Such was the information we obtained from Mr. Bridger, but we shall

-know more about things and have a better understanding when we have

-seen the country ourselves. Supper had been provided for Mr. Bridger

-and his men and the latter having eaten, the council dismissed, Mr.

-Bridger going with President Young to supper, the remainder retiring to

-their wagons conversing over the subject touched upon. The evening was

-very fine but mosquitoes numerous.

-

-Tuesday, June 29

-

-Morning very pleasant till the sun got up a little, then it was very

-hot. We started at 7:40 and traveled over very good roads through

-barren land till 10:45 then halted for noon on the banks of the Big

-Sandy, having traveled six and three-quarters miles. The second

-division have passed over the river but the first division halted on

-the north side. This stream appears to be about seven rods wide at this

-place and about two feet deep in the channel, but it is not generally

-so wide, but deeper. There is some timber on its banks and plenty

-of grass in places for teams. At 1:30 we again proceeded, President

-Young and some others going ahead in the cutter wagon to look out a

-camp ground for the night. Our course still lies about southwest, the

-road generally good over gently rolling, hard, sandy land and in some

-places the surface is covered with loose fragments of hard rock. After

-traveling nine and a half miles President Young rode up and reported

-that we would have to go at least six miles farther before we could

-get feed. It was then a quarter after six, but the teamsters spurred

-up in order to get through. Most of the road after this for four miles

-was very hilly and uneven and in places the loose fragments of rocks

-made it very bad traveling, but many were thrown from the road by the

-spare men. The weather grew cooler towards evening, some large clouds

-rising in the west which favored the teams considerably. At 9:05 we

-found ourselves on the lowlands on the banks of the river again and

-formed our encampment, having traveled since noon seventeen miles and

-during the day twenty-three and three-quarters, which is the greatest

-day's journey we have made since leaving Winter Quarters. The camp was

-formed by moonlight. There seems to be plenty of feed for teams but

-no wood for fuel. Many of the brethren have gone down sick within the

-past three days and a number more this evening. They generally begin

-with headache, succeeded by violent fever, and some go delirious for

-a while. Brother Fowler was seized this afternoon and this evening is

-raving. It is supposed by some that this sickness is caused by the use

-of the mineral saleratus or alkali picked up on the lakes and surface

-of the land and it is considered poisonous. Some consider also that we

-inhale the effluvium arising from it, which has the like effect. It

-appears to be an article which ought to be used with great care if used

-at all. There has been no case considered dangerous yet, nor any of

-long duration.

-

-Wednesday, June 30

-

-Morning hot. We resumed our journey at 8:15, several others of the

-brethren being reported sick. President Young, Kimball and others rode

-ahead again. We found the roads very good but sandy and filling the

-wagons with dust. At 11:30 we arrived on the banks of Green River,

-having traveled eight miles and formed our encampment in a line under

-the shade of the cottonwood timber. This river is about sixteen to

-eighteen rods wide and altogether too deep to be forded. Its banks

-are well lined with cottonwood but none large enough to make a canoe.

-There are also many patches of wild apple trees, and rose bushes

-abound bearing pretty roses. This river is 3381/2 miles from Fort John

-or Laramie. There is a narrow strip of land which might answer for

-farming on each bank of the river. The grass grows good and plentiful

-but still not so much as has been represented. After dinner the

-brethren commenced making two rafts, one for each division, and a while

-afterwards Elder Samuel Brannan arrived, having come from the Pacific

-to meet us, obtain council, etc. He is accompanied by Smith of the

-firm of Jackson Heaton & Bonney, bogus snakers of Nauvoo. There

-is another young man in company with them. They have come by way of

-Fort Hall and brought with them several files of the California Star.

-They had eleven deaths on board their ship during their voyage over,

-the others I understand are doing well, raising grain, etc. Towards

-evening a storm blew up from the west and although we had no rain we

-had tremendous wind. The first division finished their raft before

-dark. There is a slough a little down the river where some of the

-brethren have caught some very nice fish, but the mosquitoes are so

-very troublesome it is difficult abiding out of doors.

-

-

-

-July 1847

-

-Thursday, July 1

-

-This morning found myself laboring under a severe attack of the fever,

-accompanied with violent aching in my head and limbs. The brethren

-commenced ferrying but got only fourteen wagons over on account of the

-very high wind.

-

-Friday, July 2

-

-The day was more pleasant and the ferrying continued more rapidly. I

-got over the river before noon but remained very sick. Afternoon the

-twelve had a council and decided to send three or four men back to

-serve as guides to the next company.

-

-Saturday, July 3

-

-The morning more unfavorable. The brethren got the last wagon over

-before noon, no accident having happened, and about the time they

-finished it commenced raining, accompanied by thunder and wind. It was

-concluded for some of the brethren to go on and look out a camp ground

-a few miles ahead so as to shorten the distance of the next day's

-travel. The brethren returned about noon and gave orders to harness up

-and proceed, and at 3:15 we moved forward and went on three miles, then

-formed encampment in the midst of an army of mosquitoes. These insects

-are more numerous here than I ever saw them anywhere, everything was

-covered with them, making the teams restive in the wagons. There

-is plenty of grass for teams and it is the intention to tarry here

-till Monday morning. At night President Young gave the brethren some

-instructions about trading at Fort Bridger and advised them to be wise,

-etc. Five men were selected to go back and meet the next company, viz.,

-Phineas Young, George Woodard, Aaron Farr, Eric Glines and Rodney

-Badger. They are to take the cutter wagon instead of each taking a

-horse which cannot be spared by the camp.

-

-Sunday, July 4

-

-The morning fine and warm. The five brethren have started back to meet

-the other company. President Young, Kimball and others went back with

-them to ferry them over Green River. Some of the brethren assembled

-for meeting in the circle. At 2:30 p.m. the brethren returned from the

-ferry accompanied by twelve of the Pueblo brethren from the army. They

-have got their discharge and by riding hard overtaken us. They feel

-well and on arriving in camp gave three cheers, after which President

-Young moved that we give glory to God which was done by hosannas.

-William Walker was with them but has gone back with the five brethren

-to meet his wife. The spot where we are now camped is opposite to

-the junction of the Big Sandy and Green River. On the other side the

-river there is a range of singular sandy buttes perfectly destitute

-of vegetation, and on the sides can be seen from here, two caves

-which are probably inhabited by wild bears. The view is pleasant and

-interesting. During the afternoon one of Brother Crow's oxen was found

-to be poisoned through eating some kind of a weed and was much swollen.

-I understand it was dead when they found it.

-

-Monday, July 5

-

-At eight o'clock we pursued our journey, many of the brethren still

-being sick though generally improving. After traveling three and a

-half miles on the bank of the river the road then leaves it bending

-westward. We have now a very pleasant view of the Bear River mountains

-far to the southwest, their summits capped with snow. We found the land

-somewhat rolling, destitute of grass and several very steep places of

-descent. At 4:45 we arrived on the banks of Blacks Fork and formed

-our encampment, having traveled twenty miles, the last sixteen and a

-half without sight of water. This stream is about six rods wide, very

-swift current but not deep. The bottoms on each side are very pleasant

-but not much grass for teams. There is one place in the road where we

-might have saved a crook of nearly a mile by digging down bank which

-would probably have detained us about twenty minutes, but it was not

-discovered till most of the wagons had passed over.

-

-Tuesday, July 6

-

-Morning very pleasant. We started on our journey at 7:50 and after

-traveling three and three-quarters miles, crossed Hams Fork, a rapid

-stream about three rods wide and two feet deep; and this would be a

-good place to camp, there being an abundance of high bunch grass on

-the banks. One and a half miles farther we crossed Blacks Fork which

-appears to be about eight rods wide and two and a half feet deep, but

-little grass near it. We then leave the river and wind over uneven

-road with many pitches caused by heavy rains washing the land, which

-is generally barren. After traveling eleven miles beyond the last

-stream, crossed a small creek about two feet wide but no grass. At four

-o'clock we crossed back over Blacks Fork and formed our encampment on

-its banks, having traveled eighteen and a quarter miles. At this place

-there is a fine specimen of the wild flax which grows all around. It

-is considered equal to any cultivated, bears a delicate blue flower.

-There is also an abundance of the rich bunch grass in the neighborhood

-of the river back and many wild currants. The prairies are lined with

-beautiful flowers of various colors--chiefly blue, red and yellow,

-which have a rich appearance and would serve to adorn and beautify an

-eastern flower garden.

-

-Wednesday, July 7

-

-This morning we proceeded at 7:35 and after traveling two and a half

-miles, forded Black's Fork once more. Here also is abundance of

-good grass, wild flax and handsome flowers. After traveling two and

-three-quarters miles farther, forded a stream about two rods wide and

-two feet deep, very swift current, also lined on its banks with bunch

-grass. At twelve o'clock we halted for noon on the banks of the last

-stream, having traveled nine miles over pretty rough road. The day

-very windy and filling the wagons with dust. Some of the wagons have

-gone on expecting to reach Bridger's Fort before they halt. At 1:40

-we moved forward and found the road more even, though in many places

-rendered bad by the cobble stones. After traveling seven and a half

-miles we arrived opposite to nine Indian lodges erected on the south

-of the road. Here we halted a while and found Tim Goodale here, one

-of the trappers who passed us at the Platte ferry. There are not many

-Indians here but they appear to have a great many handsome ponies. We

-then continued on and after fording four creeks on an average about a

-rod wide, we arrived at Fort Bridger which is proved by the roadometer

-to be 397 miles from Fort John. We went half a mile beyond the fort

-and formed our encampment after crossing three more creeks, having

-traveled this afternoon eight and three-quarters miles and during the

-day seventeen and three-quarters. The grass is very plentiful in this

-neighborhood and much higher than we have generally seen it. The whole

-region seems filled with rapid streams all bending their way to the

-principal fork. They doubtless originate from the melting of the snow

-on the mountains and roar down their cobbly beds till they join Black's

-Fork. Bridger's Fort is composed of two double log houses about forty

-feet long each and joined by a pen for horses about ten feet high

-constructed by placing poles upright in the ground close together,

-which is all the appearance of a fort in sight. There are several

-Indian lodges close by and a full crop of young children playing around

-the door. These Indians are said to be of the Snake tribe, the Utahs

-inhabiting beyond the mountains. The latitude of Fort Bridget is 41 deg.

-19' 13" and its height above the level of the sea according to Elder

-Pratt's observations is 6,665 feet. It is doubtless a very cold region

-and little calculated for farming purposes. To the west is a pretty

-high mountain which appears well covered with timber. The country all

-around looks bleak and cold.

-

-Thursday, July 8

-

-Morning fine but high wind. It is concluded to stay a day here to

-set some wagon tires, etc. Many have gone to trade their rifles and

-some clothing for buckskins. H. Egan traded two rifles and got twenty

-pretty good skins for them. The day continued warm with high wind.

-Evening there was a council and some complaints listened to from George

-Mills against Andrew Gibbons. It was decided for Thomas Williams and

-S. Brannan to return from here and meet Captain Brown's company from

-Pueblo. Inasmuch as the brethren have not received their discharge nor

-their paw from the United States, Brother Brannan goes to tender his

-services as pilot to conduct a company of fifteen or twenty to San

-Francisco if they feel disposed to go there and try to get their pay.

-Williams came clothed with authority to arrest Tim Goodale or one of

-his men for stealing a horse at Pueblo, but he can get no encouragement

-from President Young to make the attempt.

-

-Friday, July 9

-

-We started at eight o'clock, the brethren who go back bidding good

-bye to the camp and proceeding on their back journey while we moved

-westward over pretty rough roads. After traveling six and a quarter

-miles, we arrived at the springs and halted a while to rest our teams.

-We then proceeded on three-quarters of a mile and began to ascend

-a long steep hill, near the top of which and eight miles from Fort

-Bridger, Elder Pratt took an observation and found the latitude 41 deg. 16'

-11". Arriving on the top we found the table tolerably level for several

-miles then began to descend to the bottom again. The descent from this

-hill is the steepest and most difficult we have ever met with, being

-long and almost perpendicular. At three o'clock we crossed the Muddy

-Fork, a stream about twelve feet wide, and formed our encampment on the

-west bank, having traveled since the halt six and three-quarters miles

-and during the day thirteen. Here is plenty of tall bunch grass and

-a pretty good chance for our teams. The day has been windy, warm and

-dusty.

-

-Saturday, July 10

-

-Started this morning at eight o'clock, weather warm with tolerably

-high wind. After traveling three and a half miles we passed a small

-copperas spring at the foot of a mountain a little to the left of

-the road. The water is very clear but tastes very strong of copperas

-and alum and has a somewhat singular effect on the mouth. It runs a

-little distance over the red sand which abounds in this region and

-where it is saturated with water almost looks like blood at a little

-distance. After passing this spring the road winds around the foot of

-mountains gradually ascending for some distance till finally arriving

-on the summit of a high ridge. Here Elder Pratt took a barometrical

-observation and found the height to be 7,315 feet above the level of

-the sea. On arriving at the west side of the ridge two and a half miles

-from the last mentioned spring we found a very steep, rough place to

-descend and found it necessary to halt and fix the road. About half

-way down there is a place over huge rocks, leaving barely enough room

-for a wagon to get down, but by labor it was soon made passable. A

-little farther, the brethren had to dig a place considerably to make a

-pass between the mountains. President Young and Kimball labored hard

-with a number of others and in about a half an hour made a good road.

-At twenty miles from Fort Bridger, passed another spring and a little

-farther after arriving on the bottom land, the road turns nearly south

-through a beautiful low bottom filled with grass. At 1:45 we halted

-for noon, having traveled nine miles. Latitude 41 deg. 14' 21". After

-halting an hour and a half we proceeded again and after traveling

-three and a half miles began to ascend the dividing ridge between the

-Colorado waters and the great basin. This mountain is very high and

-the ascent steep, rendering it necessary to make a crooked road to

-gain the summit. The height is 7,700 feet according to Elder Pratt's

-observations. The surface at the top is narrow. Here three bears were

-seen to run over a still higher mountain on the left. The descent was

-very steep, having to lock the wagons for half a mile. We then descend

-and travel on the bottom a few miles between high rugged mountains

-till the road seems suddenly to be shut up by a high mountain ahead.

-The road here turns suddenly to the left and goes east about 200 yards

-then winds again southwest. After ascending and descending another high

-ridge, we crossed a small creek about ten feet wide and at 7:45 formed

-our encampment on the southwest banks, having traveled this afternoon

-nine miles and during the day eighteen over the most mountainous course

-we have yet seen. After camping, Mr. Miles Goodyear came into camp. He

-is the man who is making a farm in the Bear River valley. He says it

-is yet seventy-five miles to his place, although we are now within two

-miles of Bear River. His report of the valley is more favorable than

-some we have heard but we have an idea he is anxious to have us make

-a road to his place through selfish motives. Elder Pratt has found a

-beautiful spring of clear, sweet, cold water about a hundred yards

-southwest from the camp. Water excellent.

-

-Sunday, July 11

-

-Morning fine with ice a quarter of an inch thick on the water pails.

-Walked on the mountain east with President Young and Kimball, from

-whence we had a pleasing view of the surrounding valley which is

-about ten miles wide. Abundance of timber on the mountains south

-and southwest and beyond that plenty of snow. After having prayers,

-we again descended and at the foot discovered a very strong sulphur

-spring. The surface of the water is covered with flour of sulphur and

-where it oozes from the rocks is perfectly black. The water in the

-creek shows sulphur very clearly and smells bad. During the day some of

-the brethren discovered an oil spring about a mile south. The substance

-which rises out of the ground resembles tar and is very oily. Some

-have oiled their gun stocks with it and oiled their shoes, others have

-gone to fill their tar buckets and are sanguine it will answer well to

-grease wagons. It is somewhat singular to find such a great contrast

-of substances within so short a distance. Here is pure water, sulphur,

-and oily tar within a mile of each other, and matter of curiosity all

-around for the contemplation of the curious. Porter, Brother Little

-and others have been out with Goodyear to view the route he wishes us

-to take. They represent it as being bad enough, but we are satisfied

-it leads too far out of our course to be tempted to try it. There are

-some in camp who are getting discouraged about the looks of the country

-but thinking minds are not much disappointed, and we have no doubt of

-finding a place where the Saints can live which is all we ought to

-ask or expect. It is evident the country grows better as we proceed

-west, and vegetation is more plentiful and looks richer. After dark, a

-meeting was called to decide which of the two roads we shall take from

-here. It was voted to take the right hand or northern road, but the

-private feelings of all the twelve were that the other would be better.

-But such matters are left to the choice of the camp so that none may

-have room to murmur at the twelve hereafter.

-

-Monday, July 12

-

-Morning cloudy and cool. We pursued our journey at 7:15. At one and a

-quarter miles rose a very steep, low hill, narrow but very steep on

-both sides. One half a mile farther crossed the Bear River, a very

-rapid stream about six rods wide and two feet deep, bottom full of

-large cobble stones, water clear, banks lined with willows and a little

-timber, good grass, many strawberry vines and the soil looks pretty

-good. About a half a mile beyond the ford, proceeded over another ridge

-and again descended into and traveled up a beautiful narrow bottom

-covered with grass and fertile but no timber. Four and three-quarters

-of a mile beyond Bear River, passed a small spring of good clear

-cold water. At 11:50 halted for noon in the same narrow bottom near

-a ridge of high, rough rocks to the right, having traveled nine and

-three-quarters miles. There is scarcely any wagon track to be seen,

-only a few wagons of Hasting's company having come this route; the

-balance went the other road and many of them perished in the snow; it

-being late in the season and much time was lost quarreling who would

-improve the roads, etc. There is a creek of clear water close by, deep

-but scarcely any current. President Young was taken very sick awhile

-before we halted. After resting two hours the camp moved on again,

-except President Young and Kimball's wagons, who concluded to remain

-there today on account of the President's sickness. After traveling one

-and a half miles we crossed the creek at the foot of a high mountain

-and a little farther crossed back again. A mile farther, began to

-ascend a long steep hill, narrow on the summit and steep descent. We

-then wound around between high hills till arriving again on a narrow

-rich bottom. At the foot of the hill we crossed last, there is a spring

-of very good cold water, and in fact, there are many good springs all

-along the road. At six o'clock we formed our encampment near a very

-small creek and a good spring, having traveled this afternoon six and

-three-quarters miles and during the day sixteen and a half. There is an

-abundance of grass here and the country appears to grow still richer as

-we proceed west, but very mountainous. There are many antelope on these

-mountains and the country is lovely enough but destitute of timber.

-About a quarter of a mile west from the camp is a cave in the rock

-about thirty feet long, fifteen feet wide and from four to six feet

-high. There are many martins at the entrance and on observing closely,

-can be seen myriads of small bugs. It is supposed from appearances that

-there is some property cached in the cave. Soon after we camped, we had

-a light shower accompanied by thunder. This country evidently lacks

-rain, even the grass appears parched.

-

-Tuesday, July 13

-

-Awhile before noon, Elder Kimball and Howard Egan arrived from the

-company back. A meeting was called but suddenly dispersed by a thunder

-shower. After the rain ceased, Elder Kimball proposed that a company

-start from the camp with Elder Pratt to proceed to the Weber River

-canyon and ascertain if we can pass through safely, if not, to try and

-find a pass over the mountains. He reported that President Young is a

-little better this morning, but last evening was insensible and raving.

-Colonel Rockwood is also very sick and quite deranged. A company of

-twenty-two wagons, mostly ox teams, started on soon after dinner, in

-company with Elder Pratt, and soon after, Elders Kimball and Egan

-returned to the back company. The day has been very hot and sultry, and

-mosquitoes are very troublesome.

-

-Wednesday, July 14

-

-The day has been very hot, with occasionally a light breeze. Several

-of the brethren have been out hunting, and brought in several antelope

-which appear to abound in this region. Brothers Woodruff and Barnabas

-Adams went back to the other wagons this morning. They returned at

-night and reported that President Young is considerably better, but

-Brother Rockwood remains very sick. There are one or two new cases of

-sickness in our camp, mostly with fever which is very severe on the

-first attack, generally rendering its victims delirious for some hours,

-and then leaving them in a languid, weakly condition. It appears that a

-good dose of pills or medicine is good to break the fever. The patient

-then needs some kind of stimulant to brace his nerves and guard him

-against another attack. I am satisfied that diluted spirits is good in

-this disease after breaking up the fever. At night had a light shower.

-The following is a list of the names of those who are gone on to look

-out and make a road, etc., viz.: Orson Pratt, commander of company,

-O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding, Stephen Markham, Nathaniel

-Fairbanks, Joseph Egbert, John S. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, Robert

-Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, John Crow, Walter H. Crow, Walter Crow, George

-W. Therlkill, James Chesney, Jewis B. Myers, John Brown, Shadrack

-Roundy, Hans C. Hanson, Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, David Powell, Oscar

-Crosby, Hark Lay, Joseph Mathews, Gilbert Summe, Green Flake, John

-S. Gleason, Charles Burke, Norman Taylor, A. P. Chesley, Seth

-Taft, Horace Thornton, Stephen Kelsey, James Stewart, Robert Thomas,

-C. D. Barnham, John S. Eldridge, Elijah Newman, Francis Boggs,

-Levi N. Kendall, David Grant. First division: seven wagons, fifteen

-men; second division: sixteen wagons, twenty-seven men besides Crow's

-family of women and children. Total, twenty-three wagons and forty-two

-men.

-

-Thursday, July 15

-

-Morning pleasant but cloudy. At twelve o'clock President Young, Kimball

-and all the rear wagons arrived, eight in number. The President is much

-better. Brother Rockwood is considerably better. Orders were given for

-this company to harness up, and during the time till we started onward

-at half-past one we had a very refreshing shower. After traveling two

-miles we passed another spring of good water at the foot of a high hill

-a little to the right of the road. At half-past three we formed our

-encampment at the foot of some high red bluffs, having traveled four

-and a half miles, and enjoyed two more pleasant showers. Feed here good

-and a beautiful spring of good, clear, cold water a little to the left

-of the road. The evening fine and pleasant.

-

-Friday, July 16

-

-This morning we have had two pleasant showers accompanied by pretty

-loud thunder. At 8:45, we proceeded onward, passing through a narrow

-ravine between very high mountains. After traveling one and a quarter

-miles passed a deep ravine, where most of the teams had to double to

-get up. One-half mile farther, crossed the creek and found the crossing

-place very bad. Harvey Pierce broke his wagon reach and bolster. The

-wagon had to be unloaded, but with little delay was soon repaired,

-during which time a number of the brethren fixed a new place to cross

-the creek. After passing this place, following the course of the

-creek, the mountains seem to increase in height, and come so near

-together in some places as to leave merely room enough for a crooked

-road. At half past twelve we halted to feed, having traveled six and

-three-quarters miles and are yet surrounded by high mountains. As we

-halted, O. P. Rockwell came up from Elder Pratt's company. He

-reports that it is about twenty-five or thirty miles to the canyon.

-They have found the road leading over the mountains to avoid the canyon

-and expect to be on top today at noon. The day is pleasant with a nice

-breeze. Grass plentiful and pretty high, but no timber yet, except

-small cedar on the sides of the mountains. Numerous springs of clear

-water all along the base of the mountains. During the halt two of the

-brethren went to the top of the mountain on the north of the camp. They

-looked like babes in size. At 1:40, we proceeded onward and found the

-pass between the mountains growing narrower, until it seemed strange

-that a road could ever have been made through. We crossed creek a

-number of times, and in several places found the crossing difficult.

-After proceeding a few miles, we saw patches of oak shrubbery though

-small in size. In the same place and for several miles there are many

-patches or groves of the wild currant, hop vines, alder and black

-birch. Willows are abundant and high. The currants are yet green and

-taste most like a gooseberry, thick rind and rather bitter. The hops

-are in blossom and seem likely to yield a good crop. The elder-berries,

-which are not very plentiful, are in bloom. In some places we had to

-pass close to the foot of high, perpendicular red mountains of rock

-supposed to be from six hundred to a thousand feet high. At a quarter

-to seven we formed our encampment, having traveled this afternoon nine

-and a half miles, and during the day sixteen and a quarter. We are yet

-enclosed by high mountains on each side, and this is the first good

-camping place we have seen since noon, not for lack of grass or water,

-but on account of the narrow gap between the mountains. Grass is pretty

-plentiful most of the distance and seems to grow higher the farther we

-go west. At this place the grass is about six feet high, and on the

-creek eight or ten feet high. There is one kind of grass which bears

-a head almost like wheat and grows pretty high, some of it six feet.

-There is a very singular echo in this ravine, the rattling of wagons

-resembles carpenters hammering at boards inside the highest rocks. The

-report of a rifle resembles a sharp crack of thunder and echoes from

-rock to rock for some time. The lowing of cattle and braying of mules

-seem to be answered beyond the mountains. Music, especially brass

-instruments, have a very pleasing effect and resemble a person standing

-inside the rock imitating every note. The echo, the high rocks on the

-north, high mountains on the south with the narrow ravine for a road,

-form a scenery at once romantic and more interesting than I have ever

-witnessed. Soon after we camped, I walked up the highest mountain on

-the south. The ascent is so steep that there is scarce a place to be

-found to place the foot flat and firm, and the visitor is every moment,

-if he makes the least slip or stumbles, in danger of being precipitated

-down to the bottom and once overbalanced, there is no possibility of

-stopping himself till he gets to the bottom, in which case he would

-doubtless be dashed to pieces. After resting about half a dozen times I

-arrived at the top and found the ascent equally steep all the way up.

-In many places I had to go on my hands and feet to keep from falling

-backwards. From this mountain I could see the fork of Weber River about

-a mile west of the camp; looking back I could see the road we had come

-for several miles, but in every other direction nothing but ranges of

-mountains still as much higher than the one I was on as it is above the

-creek. The scenery is truly wild and melancholy. After surveying the

-face of the country a little while, I began to descend and found the

-task much more difficult than ascending, but by using great care and

-taking time, I got down without accident a little before dark. Solomon

-Chamberlain broke his forward axle tree about two miles back. A wagon

-was unloaded and sent back to fetch him up. He is yet very sick.

-

-Saturday, July 17

-

-Arose to behold a fine pleasant morning, my health much better. This

-is my thirty-third birthday. My mind naturally reverts back to my

-family and my heart is filled with blessings on their heads more than

-my tongue is able to express. The richest blessings that ever were

-bestowed upon the head of woman or child could not be more than I

-desire for them, whatever be my lot. President Young is reported as

-having had a very sick night. A forge was set up and some repairs done

-to wagons and Brother Chamberlain's repaired also. The cattle and mules

-seem very uneasy and continue lowing and braying all the morning. I

-suppose it is in consequence of the singular echoes, they no doubt

-thinking they are answered by others over the mountains. At 9:40 the

-camp renewed the journey and one mile farther arrived at the Red fork

-of the Weber River. We also seem to have a wide space to travel through

-and now turn to the right in a western course, the ravine having run

-mostly southwest. The distance we have traveled through this narrow

-pass is twenty-three miles. Yesterday was the first day we have been

-out of sight of snow a whole day since we arrived at Fort John. We

-could not see it for the high mountains although surrounded by it. On

-arriving at this stream we see it again on the mountains to the east.

-This stream is about four rods wide, very clear water and apparently

-about three feet deep on an average. Its banks lined with cottonwood

-and birch and also dense patches of brush wood, willows, rose bushes,

-briers, etc. By stepping to the top of a small mound at the bend of

-the road, the mouth of the canyon can be seen very plainly, as also

-the mountains between which we pass to avoid it. The canyon appears

-to be about eight or ten miles west of us. I should judge not over

-that. President Young being so very sick found he could not endure

-to travel farther. Accordingly Elder Kimball and some others went

-to select a camping ground and soon returning reported a place a

-little farther. The camp moved on and formed encampment on the banks

-of the river having traveled two and a half miles, the day very hot

-and mosquitoes plentiful. Several of the brethren have caught some

-fine trout in this stream which appears to have many in it. In the

-afternoon Elders Kimball, Richards, Smith, Benson and others went onto

-a mountain to clothe and pray for President Young who continues very

-sick. On returning they rolled down many large rocks from the top of

-the mountain to witness the velocity of their descent, etc. Some would

-roll over half a mile and frequently break to pieces. John Nixon found

-and brought to camp a very singular kind of thistle which I have never

-seen before nor recollect of ever reading of the like. He found it on

-the low land near the camp and says there are many more like it. It is

-a great curiosity and worthy of description. The stem is about four

-feet long, about six inches wide and a quarter of an inch thick. It is

-formed of a double leaf or case and when broken is hollow, although

-the stem lies close together, perfectly flat. It is ornamented with

-prickles from bottom to top. These leaves are but sparsely scattered

-all along up the stem. The top is a kind of crown and bush formed by

-the same kind of prickly leaves and is about ten inches long by five

-inches broad, forming a very handsome head or crown. But the great

-curiosity of this thistle is a perfect resemblance of a snake coiled

-around the crown as though in the act of guarding it against foes.

-The head of the snake lies on the top of the crown at one end and is

-ornamented by a small bunch of flowers like common thistle flowers on

-the snake's head. At the extremity of the tail is a bunch of small

-burrs covered with prickles something resembling the rattles on a

-rattlesnake's tail. The body of the snake is formed of the same kind of

-substance as the thistle itself and has a very singular appearance. It

-seems that two of the great enemies of mankind have combined, the most

-bitter and destructive guarding the more innocent. The serpent tempted

-the woman causing her to sin, in consequence of which the earth was

-cursed and decreed to produce thorns and thistles, etc., but this is

-the first time I ever saw the snake guard the thistle. In the evening

-Elders Kimball, G. A. Smith and Howard Egan rode down the river

-to visit the canyon. They returned about ten o'clock and said they had

-been eight miles down the river but at that distance did not arrive at

-the canyon and being late they concluded to return to camp.

-

-Sunday, July 18

-

-This morning the camp was called together and addressed by Elder

-Kimball. He reports President Young as being a very sick man. He

-proposed to the brethren that instead of their scattering off, some

-hunting, some fishing, and some climbing mountains, etc., that they

-should meet together and pray and exhort each other that the Lord may

-turn away sickness from our midst and from our President that we may

-proceed on our journey. It was decided to assemble at ten o'clock

-and at the sound of the bugle the brethren met in a small grove of

-shrubbery which they have made for the purpose opposite the wagons.

-During the meeting, Elder Kimball proposed to the brethren that all

-the camp, except President Young's and eight or ten other wagons with

-brethren enough to take care of him, etc., proceed on tomorrow and go

-through, find a good place, begin to plant potatoes, etc., as we have

-little time to spare. The proposition was acceeded to by unanimous vote

-and after a number had expressed their feelings the meeting adjourned

-till two o'clock at which time they again assembled and listened to

-remarks from a number of the brethren. Elder Kimball again gave much

-good instruction and prophesied of good things concerning the camp. The

-bishops broke bread and the sacrament was administered. Good feelings

-seem to prevail and the brethren desire to do right. A number yet

-continue sick, but we expect all will soon recover. The day is very hot

-with very little air moving. Elder Kimball consented for me to go on

-tomorrow with the company that goes ahead.

-

-Monday, July 19

-

-Morning fine and warm, President Young considerably better. At 7:45 we

-started onward leaving President Young and Kimball's wagons and several

-others. We found the road very rough on account of loose rocks and

-cobble stones. After traveling two and a quarter miles, we forded the

-river and found it about eighteen inches deep but proceeded without

-difficulty. Soon after we were over, Elder Snow came up and said the

-camp were requested to halt awhile till Dr. Richards came. One of

-his oxen is missing and he wished to go on. We concluded to move on

-a little to where the road should turn off between the mountains to

-avoid the canyon. Elder Pratt went three miles out of his road and had

-to return again. Three-quarters of a mile from the ford we found the

-place to make the cutoff and there halted awhile. I put a guide board

-up at this place marked as follows: "Pratt's Pass to avoid canyon. To

-Fort Bridger 741/4 miles." Brother Pack, having charge of the company,

-concluded to move on slowly and be making our way up the mountains. We

-accordingly started and after traveling a mile from the forks began to

-ascend and wind around the mountains. We found the road exceedingly

-rough and crooked and very dangerous on wagons. Three and a half miles

-from the forks of the road the brethren made a bridge over a small

-creek over which we crossed having passed a number of springs near the

-road. Two and a quarter miles farther we arrived on the summit of the

-dividing ridge and put a guide board up, "80 miles to Fort Bridger."

-At this place Elders Kimball, Woodruff, G. A. Smith and H. Egan

-rode up to view the road, etc. The descent is not very steep but

-exceedingly dangerous to wagons being mostly on the side hill over

-large cobble stones, causing the wagons to slide very badly. After

-traveling a little way, G. A. Smith's wagon wheels gave way going

-down a steep pitch. The spokes are loose in the hub, and worked about

-so that when the wagon slides they dish inward, etc. At two o'clock, we

-halted beside a small creek to water teams, having traveled ten and a

-half miles over exceedingly rough road. A wagon was unloaded, and sent

-for G. A. Smith's loading which is reported to be two miles back.

-While they were gone, many turned out their teams to graze. At 3:30 the

-men returned with the wagons, putting the loading into several so as

-to proceed and at 3:35 we started forward, the road turning suddenly

-to the right for about three-quarters of a mile and then a southwest

-course again. Here we ascend a very long steep hill for nearly a mile,

-then descend by a very crooked road. I think a better road might be

-made here and this high hill avoided and save a mile's travel. After

-traveling a little over three miles, we crossed a creek about a rod

-wide and eighteen inches deep, pretty steep going down but good going

-out. We went on a little farther and at half past five camped on a

-small spot surrounded by willow bushes full of mosquitoes, having

-traveled this afternoon three and a quarter miles and during the day

-thirteen and three-quarters. The day has been hot and no wind. Teams

-sweat much and it has been a pretty hard day's travel. There is not

-much grass here, but is said to be more plentiful a little farther.

-Several accidents have happened to wagons today but nothing serious

-except Brother G. A. Smith's. Dr. Richards' wagons arrived in camp

-at the same time the rest did. The sick are getting better. In the

-evening the brethren picked up a lot of dry willows and made a coal

-pit to set G. A. Smith's tire before we can leave tomorrow. The

-evening and night were very cold.

-

-Tuesday, July 20

-

-This morning fine and warm. The coal pit is burned and Burr Frost set

-Elder Smith's wagon tire and did various other repairs to a number of

-other wagons which took till nearly eleven o'clock, about which time

-the camp started onward. One of Brother Crow's men returned from Elder

-Pratt's company and reported that their camp is about nine miles from

-here. He is hunting stray cattle. He says the road is very rough from

-here and about a mile beyond where they are camped the road begins to

-ascend over a high range of mountains. Elder Pratt has been to the top

-but cannot see the Salt Lake from there. Their company is gone on. I

-walked ahead of the camp nearly four miles and picked many gooseberries

-nearly ripe. They are very plentiful on this bottom. The brethren spent

-much time cutting brush wood and improving the road. After traveling

-four miles, halted about half an hour to water teams and eat dinner.

-The road over which we have traveled is through an uneven gap between

-high mountains and is exceedingly rough and crooked. Not a place to

-be met with scarcely where there would be room to camp for the dense

-willow groves all along the bottom. We then proceeded on and traveled

-over the same kind of rough road till a little after 5:00 p.m. then

-camped on a ridge, having traveled today seven and a quarter miles. The

-last three miles has been the worst road of the two, it being through

-willow bushes over twenty feet high, also rose and gooseberry bushes

-and shaking poplar and birch timber. Although there has been a road

-cut through, it is yet scarcely possible to travel without tearing

-the wagon covers. We have crossed this creek which Elder Pratt names

-Canyon Creek eleven times during the day and the road is one of the

-most crooked I ever saw, many sharp turns in it and the willow stubs

-standing making it very severe on wagons. As we proceed up, the gap

-between the mountains seems to grow still narrower until arriving at

-this place where there is room to camp, but little grass for teams.

-There are many springs along the road but the water is not very good.

-In one place about a mile back there is a very bad swamp where the

-brethren spent some time cutting willows and laying them in to improve

-it. We have got along today without much damage which is somewhat

-favorable for the road is awful. At this place the ground around is

-represented as being swampy and dangerous for cattle. It is reported

-that there is no place to camp beyond this till where Elder Pratt's

-company camped and this is so small they have to huddle the wagons

-together. The soil continues sandy, except in the low moist places

-where it looks black and good. There is some pine occasionally in sight

-on the mountains, but timber here is scarce. We have passed through

-some small patches today where a few house logs might be cut, but this

-is truly a wild looking place.

-

-Wednesday, July 21

-

-We started onward at half past six, the morning fine and pleasant.

-We crossed the creek once more and about a half a mile from where we

-camped, the road turns to the right leaving the creek and ascending

-the mountains gradually. Much time was necessarily spent cutting down

-stumps, heaving out rocks and leveling the road. It is an exceedingly

-rough place. There are several springs at the foot of the mountain and

-one a mile from the top which runs above the ground a little distance,

-then sinks under again. The last half mile of the ascent is very steep

-and the nearer the top the steeper it grows. There is considerable

-timber up this gap but mostly destroyed by fire. We saw a prairie

-pheasant while going up and some wild gooseberries. At eleven o'clock,

-the teams began to arrive on the dividing ridge and in less than an

-hour, all were safely up. From this ridge we can see an extensive

-valley to the west but on every other side high mountains, many of

-them white with snow. It seems as though a few hours' travel might

-bring us out from the mountains on good road again. We halted on the

-ridge a little while and then prepared to descend, many locking both

-hind wheels, a precaution not at all unnecessary. We found the road

-down exceedingly steep and rendered dangerous by the many stumps of

-trees left standing in the road. The brethren cut up many of them which

-delayed us much. About a mile down is a bridge formed of small trees

-laid one on another to fill up a deep ravine. It is steep on both sides

-and here Joseph Rooker turned his wagon over, however, without much

-damage. A mile and a half from the top is a spring and small stream of

-very good cold water where we halted to let teams drink. This would

-make a tolerably good camp ground in case of necessity. After this, the

-road is not so steep but is very rough and winds between high hills or

-mountains through willows and brush wood and over soft places, crossing

-the creek a number of times. At four and a half miles from the top of

-the ridge, we arrived at a good spring of cold water, plenty of grass

-and a good place to camp. Our teams have now been in the harness about

-ten hours without eating and the feeling of many was to stay here, but

-some wanted to go on and we continued. Turning suddenly to the right

-a little below this spring we began to ascend another high ridge and

-while ascending some of the teams began to fail. There are a great many

-service berries on this ridge growing on what we supposed to be wild

-apple trees. The berries are good and rich when ripe. The descent from

-this ridge is not nearly so steep as the other one, yet many locked

-both hind wheels. After descending, we found another small creek and

-a very rough road again. At 7:30, we formed our encampment near the

-creek, having traveled fourteen miles in thirteen hours. There is but

-little grass here and a poor chance for cattle. Orson Pratt's company

-are camped a half a mile ahead of us and our camp was formed by Colonel

-Markham. He says they have had many new cases of sickness but mostly

-getting better. The cannon is left back on the other side of the

-mountains. About a mile back from this place there is a small grove of

-sugar maple and considerable other timber along the creek. There are

-also beds of nice green rushes in several places.

-

-Thursday, July 22

-

-This morning is cloudy and some like for rain. We started on at 8:30

-and soon came up with Elder Pratt's company. There were several bad

-places in the road where the brethren spent considerable time fixing

-them. As we near the mouth of the canyon, there is a small grove of

-elder bushes in bloom and considerable oak shrubbery. We named this a

-canyon because of the very high mountains on each side leaving but a

-few rods of a bottom for the creek to pass through and hardly room for

-a road. It is evident that the emigrants who passed this way last year

-must have spent a great deal of time cutting a road through the thickly

-set timber and heavy brush wood. It is reported that they spent sixteen

-days in making a road through from Weber River which is thirty-five

-miles but as the men did not work a quarter of their time much less

-would have sufficed. However, it has taken us over three days after the

-road is made although a great many hours have been spent in improving

-it. In this thick brush wood and around here there are many very large

-rattlesnakes lurking, making it necessary to use caution while passing

-through. After traveling one and three-quarters miles, we found the

-road crossing the creek again to the north side and then ascending up a

-very steep, high hill. It is so very steep as to be almost impossible

-for heavy wagons to ascend and so narrow that the least accident might

-precipitate a wagon down a bank three or four hundred feet, in which

-case it would certainly be dashed to pieces. Colonel Markham and

-another man went over the hill and returned up the canyon to see if

-a road cannot be cut through and avoid this hill. While passing up,

-a bear started near them but soon was out of sight amongst the very

-high grass. Brother Markham says a good road can soon be made down the

-canyon by digging a little and cutting through the bushes some ten or

-fifteen rods. A number of men went to work immediately to make the road

-which will be much better than to attempt crossing the hill and will be

-sooner done.

-

-Agreeable to President Young's instructions, Elder Pratt accompanied by

-George A. Smith, John Brown, Joseph Mathews, John Pack, O.P. Rockwell

-and J. C. Little started on this morning on horses to seek out

-a suitable place to plant some potatoes, turnips, etc., so as to

-preserve the seed at least. While the brethren were cutting the road,

-I followed the old one to the top of the hill and on arriving there

-was much cheered by a handsome view of the Great Salt Lake lying, as I

-should judge, from twenty-five to thirty miles to the west of us; and

-at eleven o'clock I sat down to contemplate and view the surrounding

-scenery. There is an extensive, beautiful, level looking valley from

-here to the lake which I should judge from the numerous deep green

-patches must be fertile and rich. The valley extends to the south

-probably fifty miles where it is again surrounded by high mountains.

-To the southwest across the valley at about twenty to twenty-five

-miles distance is a high mountain, extending from the south end of the

-valley to about opposite this place where it ceases abruptly leaving a

-pleasant view of the dark waters of the lake. Standing on the lake and

-about due west there are two mountains and far in the distance another

-one which I suppose is on the other side the lake, probably from sixty

-to eighty miles distance. To the northwest is another mountain at the

-base of which is a lone ridge of what I should consider to be rock salt

-from its white and shining appearance. The lake does not show at this

-distance a very extensive surface, but its dark blue shade resembling

-the calm sea looks very handsome. The intervening valley appears to

-be well supplied with streams, creeks and lakes, some of the latter

-are evidently salt. There is but little timber in sight anywhere, and

-that is mostly on the banks of creeks and streams of water which is

-about the only objection which could be raised in my estimation to this

-being one of the most beautiful valleys and pleasant places for a home

-for the Saints which could be found. Timber is evidently lacking but

-we have not expected to find a timbered country. There may be timber

-on the mountains which the long distance would render impossible to

-be seen with the naked eye, but the mountains through which we have

-passed have very little on them. In some places may be seen a grove

-of small fir or cedar or pine and in the valleys some cottonwood and

-other small timber. There is doubtless timber in all passes and ravines

-where streams descend from the mountains. There is no prospect for

-building log houses without spending a vast amount of time and labor,

-but we can make Spanish brick and dry them in the sun; or we can build

-lodges as the Pawnee Indians do in their villages. For my own part I

-am happily disappointed in the appearance of the valley of the Salt

-Lake, but if the land be as rich as it has the appearance of being, I

-have no fears but the Saints can live here and do well while we will

-do right. When I commune with my own heart and ask myself whether I

-would choose to dwell here in this wild looking country amongst the

-Saints surrounded by friends, though poor, enjoying the privileges

-and blessings of the everlasting priesthood, with God for our King

-and Father; or dwell amongst the gentiles with all their wealth and

-good things of the earth, to be eternally mobbed, harassed, hunted,

-our best men murdered and every good man's life continually in danger,

-the soft whisper echoes loud and reverberates back in tones of stern

-determination; give me the quiet wilderness and my family to associate

-with, surrounded by the Saints and adieu to the gentile world till God

-says return and avenge you of your enemies. If I had my family with me,

-how happy could I be, for I dread nothing so much as the journey back

-again and when I think of the many dangers from accident which families

-traveling this road are continually liable to and especially this last

-mountain road from Weber River, it makes me almost shudder to think of

-it and I could almost envy those who have got safely through, having

-their families with them, yet they will doubtless have a hard time of

-it the coming winter. Brother Crow's family especially have very little

-bread stuff with them, they say enough to last them two months and they

-are dependent on the success of their hunter for support through the

-winter. This valley appears to be fortified by mountains, except on the

-banks of the lake, on many of which there is still snow lying in large

-quantities. It is certain that good limestone abounds in these ridges

-and it is supposed coal can be found with little labor. From this hill

-I passed down the creek which we named the Last Creek about a mile and

-there saw a bed of bull rushes of the largest kind I ever saw, some

-of them being fifteen feet high and an inch and a half in diameter

-at the bottom. The grass on this creek grows from six to twelve feet

-high and appears very rank. There are some ducks around and sand hill

-cranes. Many signs of deer, antelope, and bears, but not many have been

-seen here. There have been fresh buffalo signs seen a few days' travel

-back, but those animals evidently do not stay in this region unless

-some come to winter. The ground seems literally alive with the very

-large black crickets crawling around up grass and bushes. They look

-loathsome but are said to be excellent for fattening hogs which would

-feed on them voraciously. The bears evidently live mostly on them at

-this season of the year. After spending about four hours' labor the

-brethren succeeded in cutting a pretty good road along the creek and

-the wagons proceeded on, taking near a southwest course. We found the

-last descent even but very rapid all the way. At half past five, we

-formed our encampment on a creek supposed to be Brown's Creek, having

-traveled seven and a quarter miles today. We are now five and a quarter

-miles from the mouth of this canyon making the whole distance of rough

-mountain road from the Weber River to the mouth of the canyon on this

-side a little less than thirty-five miles and decidedly the worst

-piece of road on the whole journey. At this place, the land is black

-and looks rich, sandy enough to make it good to work. The grass grows

-high and thick on the ground and is well mixed with nice green rushes.

-Feed here for our teams is very plentiful and good and the water is

-also good. There are many rattlesnakes of a large size in this valley

-and it is supposed they have dens in the mountains. The land looks dry

-and lacks rain, but the numerous creeks and springs must necessarily

-tend to moisten it much. The grass looks rich and good. A while after

-we camped, Elder Pratt and company returned and reported that they had

-been about fifteen miles north from here and this region is as suitable

-a place to put in our seeds as they have seen. Approaching nearer the

-lake, the land is mostly sunken and many small lakes in it. A few

-miles north of this, is a good spot to break up and plant potatoes,

-sow our seeds, etc. There is a little timber on the creek. From twelve

-to fifteen miles north at the foot of the mountain they saw many hot

-sulphur springs issuing from the rocks, as many as fifty in number.

-One of them, the largest, falls out of the rocks and then forms a pool

-apparently ten feet deep and a rock is in the center. The water of this

-is so hot a person cannot bear his hand in it but a very few seconds.

-It is strong of salt and sulphur and the bottom appears green as though

-it was covered with verdigris. A council was held at the Doctor's wagon

-and it was decided to move early tomorrow to the place designated;

-also, to send two men back to the President and company to report our

-progress, etc., then to commence forthwith and plow and plant about ten

-acres with potatoes this week if possible and thus continue till the

-seed is secured. John Pack and Joseph Mathews were selected to return

-to President Young's company. The evening was fine and pleasant and the

-night feels much warmer than in the ravines of the mountains.

-

-Friday, July 23

-

-This morning Elders Pack and Mathews started to meet the President and

-at the same time the camp moved on to the final location. We traveled

-two miles and then formed our encampment on the banks of the creek in

-an oblong circle. The grass here appears even richer and thicker on the

-ground than where we left this morning. The soil looks indeed rich,

-black and a little sandy. The grass is about four feet high and very

-thick on the ground and well mixed with rushes. If we stay here three

-weeks and our teams have any rest they will be in good order to return.

-As soon as the camp was formed a meeting was called and the brethren

-addressed by Elder Richards, mostly on the necessity and propriety of

-working faithfully and diligently to get potatoes, turnips, etc., in

-the ground. Elder Pratt reported their mission yesterday and after

-some remarks the meeting was dismissed. At the opening, the brethren

-united in prayer and asked the Lord to send rain on the land, etc. The

-brethren immediately rigged three plows and went to plowing a little

-northeast of the camp; another party went with spades, etc., to make a

-dam on one of the creeks so as to throw the water at pleasure on the

-field, designing to irrigate the land in case rain should not come

-sufficiently. This land is beautifully situated for irrigation, many

-nice streams descending from the mountains which can be turned in every

-direction so as to water any portion of the lands at pleasure. During

-the afternoon, heavy clouds began to collect in the southwest and at

-five o'clock we had a light shower with thunder. We had rains for about

-two hours. The brethren have plowed up considerable land and broken

-several of their plows, but there have been three plows going nearly

-all day. At night, the camp was called together and addressed by Elder

-Richards on a subject which seemed little welcome to many from the way

-it was handled. It was a sermon of ---- from end to end. Some

-felt a little insulted but it all passed off well and jokingly.

-

-Saturday, July 24

-

-The plowing is renewed and many are gone to planting potatoes. There

-is one drag going. Others are still at work on the dams. John Pack and

-Joseph Mathews returned at dark last night and reported the President

-and company a few miles up Last Creek. They have gone back this morning

-to fix two bridges at the mouth of the canyon. The day is fine and hot

-with a nice breeze. At a quarter to twelve, President Young and Kimball

-arrived and the wagons also began to arrive at the same time. The

-President seems much better and the sick generally are getting better.

-Most of the brethren express themselves well; pleased with the place,

-but some complain because there is no timber. There appears to be a

-unanimous agreement in regard to the richness of the soil and there are

-good prospects of sustaining and fattening stock with little trouble.

-The only objection is a lack of timber and rain. The latter God will

-send in its season if the Saints are faithful and I think yesterday was

-a proof that He listens to and answers the prayers of the Saints. We

-can easily irrigate the land at all events which will be an unfailing

-and certain source of water, for the springs are numerous and the water

-appears good. About 5:00 p.m. we were favored with another nice shower

-accompanied by thunder and some wind. It continued raining till nearly

-dark; the balance of the evening fine. Elder Kimball says that it is

-contemplated to send out an exploring party to start on Monday and

-proceed north to the Bear River and Cache valleys. They design taking

-several wagons with them and Presidents Young and Kimball accompany the

-expedition. Another company is to start at the same time and go west to

-the lake, then south to the Utah lake and return down this valley.

-

-Sunday, July 25

-

-Morning fine and pleasant. At ten o'clock a meeting was held in the

-camp and the brethren addressed successively by Elders G. A.

-Smith, H. C. Kimball and E. T. Benson, these mostly

-expressing their feeling of gratification for the prospects of this

-country, each being highly satisfied with the soil, etc. Elder Kimball

-referred especially to the manifold blessings we have been favored

-with during the journey. Not a man, woman, or child has died on the

-journey, not even a horse, mule, ox, cow or chicken has died during

-the whole journey. Many exhortations were given to the brethren to

-be faithful, obey the council of those in authority and we shall be

-blessed and prosperous. At 1:00 p.m. by request of Elder Kimball, the

-following persons viz.: Howard Egan, Hans C. Hanson, Jackson Redding,

-Carlos Murray, Thomas Cloward, George Billings, Philo Johnson, Charles

-Harper, Edson Whipple, Wm. A. King, Hosea Cusing, Robert Byard, Orson

-K. Whitney and Horace Whitney, assembled themselves in a willow grove

-adjacent to the camp where Elder Kimball addressed them in substance as

-follows [the whole reported by Horace Whitney]:

-

-"Most of you here present have become adopted into my family, except

-a very few calling them by name and Horace, who has become connected

-with my family by marriage, but I do not care for that, you are all the

-same to me, and your interest is my interest for what's mine is yours

-and what's yours is your own. If I have the privilege of building a

-house, I want you to help me and I will help you. Horace will want to

-build a house for some of his father's family if they should come up

-and there is plenty of timber in the hills. When my family comes up,

-we may conclude to settle somewhere else. If so, there will be plenty

-to buy us out if we shall have made any improvements. I want you all

-to be prudent and take care of your horses, cattle and everything

-entrusted to your care. It would be a good plan and probably will be

-done for those who stay here, to go back on the Sweet Water and kill

-buffalo, etc., for winter consumption. We shall go tomorrow if Brigham

-is well enough, in search of a better location--if indeed, such

-can be found--if not, we shall remain here. There should be an

-enclosure made for the purpose of keeping the horses and cattle in

-nights for there are plenty of Indians in the vicinity. I should

-advise you to keep the Sabbath day holy whether others do or not. I

-want you to put all the seed into the ground that you think will come

-to maturity. I am satisfied that buckwheat will do as well here as

-any other seed we can grow. I want also some peach stones and apple

-seeds to be planted forthwith. Brother Byard and Hans I would like

-to have immediately engage in making garments of buck skins, Brother

-Cloward in making shoes and Brother Johnson in making hats as soon as

-practicable. If you wish to go hunting, fishing, or to see the country,

-select a week day and not the Lord's day for that purpose. Do not let

-us get giddy and light minded as the Nephites did of old, but strive to

-work righteousness in the beginning, inasmuch as we have reached the

-promised land. If it is advisable to work in a family capacity, we will

-do so; and if in a church capacity, we should be equally willing to do

-that. I am going out on a scout with the brethren and I shall probably

-want one or two of you to go with me and also one or two wagons. I

-am not going to take anything back with me to Winter Quarters except

-what is actually necessary--even some of my clothes I shall leave

-behind. I shall leave Bishop Whipple with you. He is quite a steady

-and economical man, and as such I recommend him to you. I want every

-man to be as industrious as possible while I am gone and get into the

-ground all the turnips, cabbage and other seeds you can. In case a

-storm of snow should come on, it would be advisable to drive all the

-cattle among the willows where they can remain until the snow goes off.

-I want you all to work together until such time as every man can have

-his inheritance set off to him. I feel towards you as a father towards

-his children and I want you to banish all peevishness from your midst

-and accommodate yourselves as much as possible to each other's wishes.

-I have it to say that my boys have been faithful to their various

-duties on this journey and other people have noticed it and expressed

-the opinion that they never saw such an attentive set of men in their

-lives, and I consider that their conduct is worthy of imitation. I want

-you to be sober and prayerful and remember me and my family in your

-prayers." A number of other good ideas were advanced by Brother Heber

-and then we closed the meeting by prayer.

-

-At 2:00 p.m. the brethren again assembled within the camp and were

-successively addressed by Elders Woodruff, Orson Pratt and W. Richards

-sustaining the ideas advanced by the other brethren this morning. Some

-remarks followed from Lorenzo Young, John Pack and others and the

-meeting was dismissed. It is contemplated to send some wagons back to

-lighten the loads and assist the next company over these rough roads.

-It is now certain that there is considerable timber in the ravines and

-valleys between the mountains, several large bodies having been seen

-by the brethren since our arrival. There is a mountain lying northeast

-from here on which is considerably large timber. It is supposed to be

-about ten miles distance. The northern expedition is given up for the

-present on account of President Young's health. A company intend to

-go tomorrow to the lake and survey that region. If they go, they will

-probably be gone a day or two.

-

-Monday, July 26

-

-Morning cloudy and pleasant. The brethren commenced plowing early,

-others are gone to planting, etc., and the brethren appear to feel

-well. Some of the sick have been to bathe in one of the hot springs

-and pronounce the effects wonderfully beneficial. Others are going

-this morning to try the same experiment. Another company are gone to

-make a road to the timber through a ravine a little north of this.

-About ten o'clock, President Young sent me a horse with instructions

-to join him and some others going on a short exploring expedition.

-I immediately started and found the company consisted of President

-Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff, G. A. Smith, Benson, Richards

-and Carrington. We took a course northward passing by the land where

-the brethren are plowing and planting. The land indeed looks rich and

-light. About three-quarters of a mile north of the camp, we arrived on

-a beautiful table land, level and nicely sloping to the west. Here we

-halted to view it and the more we viewed, the better we were satisfied

-that it is as handsome a place for a city as can be imagined. At the

-east part there is a considerable creek of clear cold water descending

-from the mountains and just above this place it branches into two

-forks, one running northwest, the other southwest, and the two nicely

-surrounding this place, and so well arranged that should a city be

-built here the water can be turned into every street at pleasure. We

-passed on and began to ascend the mountains, the President signifying

-a wish to ascend a high peak to the north of us. After some hard toil

-and time we succeeded in gaining the summit, leaving our horses about

-two-thirds the way up. President Young felt pretty well fatigued when

-he got up. Some of the brethren feel like naming this Ensign Peak. From

-this place, we had a good view of the Salt Lake and could see that the

-waters extend for a great many miles to the north of us. There appears

-to be land, although white with salt, all the way to the mountain

-on the northwest which we had previously supposed was surrounded by

-water. We can see a pretty large stream winding from the south to the

-north through the valley but keeping not many miles distant from these

-mountains towards the lake. After satisfying ourselves we began to

-descend, President Young and Lorenzo, who joined us a while before we

-went up, going down on the east side where they were joined by Elders

-Woodruff, Benson, and Richards with the horses. Elders Kimball, Smith,

-Carrington and myself descended on the northwest corner and found the

-descent very lengthy and difficult. These hills are mostly rocky of a

-kind of soft stone in some places, in others a harder kind of flint

-stone. On arriving on the level again, we wound our way southward to

-meet the other brethren and after passing a little way saw one of the

-sulphur springs where a pretty large stream of sulphur water boils out

-of the rock at the foot of the mountain and thence branches out into

-several smaller streams for some distance till these enter a small

-lake. This water is about as warm as dish water and very salty. There

-is much filthy kind of substance collected on it and the smell arising

-from it is truly nauseating and sickly, though generally supposed to

-be in no way unhealthy. Elder Kimball left us here on seeing Elder

-Woodruff's carriage and the other brethren returning back towards the

-camp. In the meantime, Elders Smith, Carrington and myself went lower

-down towards the lake in search of some fresh water to quench our

-thirst. We found a nice clear stream of cold water but a little way

-from the sulphur spring and having drunk of it, we concluded to go

-on and see the river which we had noticed from the mountain. We took

-nearly a west course and soon struck the old road made by emigrants

-last year. We found the land exceedingly rich all along, good grass and

-abundance of rushes. We found many wet places but no signs of swamps,

-nor danger of miring. After traveling about two miles, we arrived at

-the river having followed the road to the ford. This river is about

-five rods wide on an average, three and a half feet deep at the ford

-but in other places much deeper. The current is slow and the water of

-a dark lead color. The banks are about five feet high and the soil to

-the water level of a rich, black alluvial. There is no timber on the

-banks here and not many willow bushes. We went over the river and found

-the soil equally good on the other side. While here we observed Elder

-Woodruff's carriage and the brethren again proceeding northward. We

-started back to meet them, it being the intention to go to the large,

-hot sulphur spring. We could but remark all along, the richness of

-the soil and the abundance of high, good looking grass. On arriving

-at the foot of the mountain beside another sulphur spring, we saw the

-carriage come on to the first spring but apparently judging it unsafe

-to cross, they wheeled around and returned back to camp. Elders Smith,

-Carrington and myself then concluded to go on and view the big spring

-which we found to be about two miles farther. Before arriving at it,

-there is a large shoal salt lake and on the banks are numerous sulphur

-springs varying in the appearance of the surface and losing themselves

-in the lake. There were many plovers on and around this lake. We

-arrived at the big spring about four o'clock and making our horses

-fast, we went down to where it boils out of the rock. This spring is

-also situated at the foot of the mountains and at the base of a large

-rock, perpendicular on the west side and gradually losing itself on

-the east in the mountain. The spring, as I have said, is at the base

-of this rock. There is a circular hole about four feet wide and a yard

-high from the top to the surface of the water from whence the water

-boils out in a considerable stream. The water itself in the spring

-seems to be about two feet deep. There is a rock at the mouth of the

-spring where a person can stand and see inside. Standing on this rock

-with your face near the mouth of the spring a strong warm sulphurous

-air is felt to come in gusts out of the rock and it is so hot that it

-requires only a few minutes to start the perspiration. On putting my

-hand in the spring, I was startled with the heat and found I could not

-bear to hold my hand in five seconds. It is as hot as the hottest dish

-water ever used for dishes. Immediately on emerging from the rock, the

-water forms a lake about three rods in diameter and evidently pretty

-deep. The water is exceedingly clear and nice to look at but very salty

-indeed. We could see the water boil up in many parts of the lake. The

-water escapes at the north side of the lake at the base of the rock and

-there forms a stream about four feet wide and eighteen inches deep. We

-concluded we would go down the stream six or eight rods to wash our

-feet, naturally expecting the water to be cooler, but on taking off

-our boots and socks we found it impossible to hold our feet in it a

-moment and could barely wash by dashing the water on with our hands

-and suddenly dipping them in and out. It is supposed this would boil

-an egg in about ten minutes. At five o'clock we returned back to camp

-and supposed that the spring is about four miles distance. We arrived

-in camp at six o'clock. The brethren have planted about three acres of

-potatoes, some peas, beans, and are now planting four or five acres

-of corn. Elder Kimball stated that on returning with the carriage to

-the creek near the camp to get some water, he discovered that he had

-lost his spy glass. He retraced his steps on foot to the top of the

-peak and back without finding it, and on arriving at the bottom he saw

-Elders Richards and Benson bathing in one of the warm sulphur springs.

-Although wet with perspiration he took off his clothes and plunged in

-and found the effects very pleasant and beneficial. After bathing they

-started back for camp and but a few rods distance found the glass near

-the road. Some of the brethren have commenced making a garden about two

-miles to the southeast and indeed their operations and industry are

-truly pleasing and noble. The more I view the country, the better I am

-satisfied that the Saints can live here and raise abundant crops. Elder

-Kimball has kindly offered me a horse to ride and view the country

-as much and when I have a mind to while we stay here. This morning

-Joseph Mathews and John Brown started west to go to the mountain. They

-returned this evening and report that they have been at the foot of

-the mountain and judge it to be about sixteen miles distance. They say

-the wild sage is very plentiful on the other side the valley, showing

-that the land is not so rich there as here. They found a horse, near

-the mountain and have brought it to camp, supposed to have strayed from

-emigrants who have previously passed this way. Towards sundown heavy

-clouds were noticed in the south and southwest. We expected a shower,

-but it passed off to the east.

-

-Tuesday, July 27

-

-Morning fine and warm. The atmosphere appears very different here to

-what it did amongst the mountains. The evenings and nights are very

-warm and pleasant and the air appears pure. Two of the Utah Indians

-came to camp early this morning to trade. Two ponies were bought of

-them for a rifle and musket. These two are but of moderate size,

-pleasing countenance and dressed in skins. At half past eight Amasa

-Lyman, Rodney Badger, Roswell Stevens, and Brother Brannan arrived in

-camp. They report that the Pueblo company will be in tomorrow or the

-day after. The brethren are still busy plowing and planting. Burr Frost

-has his forge up and quite a number of plows have been rigged up by the

-assistance of the carpenters. Elder Lyman, I understand, reports that

-they heard of a large company on their way and he thinks we may expect

-them in 15 or 20 days. Elders Lyman and Brannan joined the exploring

-party with President Young and Kimball and the company started off soon

-after their arrival. A company of brethren have been to the mountains

-to get more lumber to build a skiff. They returned this evening

-bringing a very handsome pine log about twenty inches through and

-which, probably, when whole, would measure sixty feet long. The day has

-been very fine and warm. The horses and cattle seem in good spirits and

-are getting fat. They are full of life and ambition. Presidents Young

-and Kimball have had their wagons moved a little distance from the camp

-to the other side the creek. During the afternoon, two more Indians

-came in to trade. Some of the brethren are making unwise trades, giving

-twenty charges of powder and balls for a buck skin, while the usual

-price is three charges. This is wrong.

-

-Wednesday, July 28

-

-Morning fine and warm. Several of the Indians have remained in camp

-over night. They seem very peaceable and gentle and anxious to trade.

-The brethren are making a saw pit to saw lumber for a skiff. Joseph

-Hancock and Lewis Barney have been off hunting in the mountains two

-days. They state there is abundance of good timber for building in the

-mountains but difficult to get at it. The timber is mostly balsam fir

-and poplar and many sticks will make two good logs. At half past three

-President Young and company returned. They have been at the Salt Lake

-and report it to be about twenty-five miles distance. No water after

-they leave the river except salt water. The lake is very clear and the

-water heavy, so much so, that a man cannot possibly sink. Even not

-where more than four feet deep and they tried to fall down on their

-knees but could not touch the bottom. They can sit or lie in the water

-perfectly easily without touching the bottom. One of the brethren lay

-down on the water and another got on him but could not sink him. They

-suppose the water will yield 35% pure salt. They gathered some off the

-rocks which is as pure, white and fine as the best that can be bought

-in market.

-

-There is a cave in the mountain west of the camp which is sixty feet

-from the entrance to the far end. The Indians appear to have frequently

-visited it and there are yet the remains of their fires.

-

-There appears to be no fresh water beyond the river and the brethren

-are more and more satisfied that we are already on the right spot.

-At eight o'clock the brethren were called together and addressed by

-President Young on various subjects, pointing out items of law which

-would be put in force here, his feelings towards the gentiles, etc. He

-said they intended to divide the city into blocks of ten acres each

-with eight lots in a block of one and a quarter acres each. The streets

-to be wide. No house will be permitted to be built on the corners of

-the streets, neither petty shops. Each house will have to be built so

-many feet back from the street and all the houses parallel with each

-other. The fronts are to be beautified with fruit trees, etc. No filth

-will be allowed to stand in the city but the water will be conducted

-through in such a manner as to carry all the filth off to the River

-Jordan. No man will be suffered to cut up his lot and sell a part to

-speculate out of his brethren. Each man must keep his lot whole, for

-the Lord has given it to us without price. The temple lot will be

-forty acres and adorned with trees, ponds, etc. The whole subject was

-interesting to the brethren and the items will probably be given more

-fully hereafter. The Twelve were appointed a committee to lay off the

-city, etc.

-

-Thursday, July 29

-

-We have had a very strong cold, east wind all the night and the morning

-is tolerably cool. At eleven o'clock I was moved up to the other camp

-about three-quarters of a mile. At ten o'clock we had a light shower.

-It rained pretty heavily all around but mostly passed by here. At three

-o'clock, the Pueblo brethren came in sight, the soldiers appearing in

-military order, many of them mounted. They have twenty-nine wagons in

-the company and one carriage. Presidents Young, Kimball and the Twelve

-went to meet the brethren and met them in the canyon. They report that

-they had very heavy rain there, the water rising in the creek three

-feet in a very short time, caused by the rush from the mountains. The

-brethren arrived at the lower camp at half past three and marched in

-headed by the fifes and side drum. They have camped a little west

-of the other camp. The brethren are represented as feeling well and

-cheerful. At five o'clock the Twelve returned here and an hour later

-went over north to the mountains, I suppose to hold a council.

-

-Friday, July 30

-

-Day warm. Twelve held a council with the officer of the battalion,

-then rode up to the hot spring. Evening a general meeting of the camp

-and addressed by President Young. He told his feelings concerning the

-soldiers, they have saved the people by going when required, etc. He

-rejoiced that they are here. He expressed his feelings warmly towards

-the brethren and also told his feelings towards the gentiles. The

-meeting was opened by hosannas three times and closed by requesting

-the battalion to build a bower tomorrow on the temple lot where we can

-assemble for meetings, etc.

-

-Saturday, July 31

-

-This morning the brethren commenced making the bower on the temple lot

-a little southwest from our camp. They will make it about forty feet

-long and twenty-eight feet wide. Walked with President Young, Kimball,

-Richards and others to the Mississippi camp. Brother Thomas Richardson

-is very sick and several others of the soldiers. Soloman Tindal is yet

-alive but looks feeble. Elder Kimball conversed sometime with Captain

-James Brown. There are from twenty to thirty of the Utah Indians here

-and some squaws trading with the brethren. They are generally of low

-stature, pleasing countenance but poorly clad. While we were there, a

-dispute arose between two of the young men and they went to fighting

-very fiercely. One broke his gun stock on the other's head and I

-expected to see a pretty serious affray, many of the others gathering

-around. Soon an old man came up, father to one of the young men engaged

-in the quarrel and he used his heavy whip very freely about both their

-heads and faces. The antagonist of the son struck the old man and he

-immediately gathered a long pole and broke it over the young man's

-head. He succeeded in quelling the broil and gave them a long lecture.

-They then mostly left and resumed their trading a little distance from

-the camp. In the afternoon, we had a pretty smart thunder shower and

-considerable wind. In the evening I walked down to the Pueblo camp and

-there learned the following particulars:

-

-These Indians who are now here are of the Shoshones, about fifteen or

-twenty in number, and several women among them. There were four or five

-of the Utahs here this morning when the Shoshones came up. One of the

-Utahs had stolen a horse from one of the Shoshones and the latter party

-saw him with the horse here. He had traded the horse for a rifle but

-was unwilling either to give up the horse or rifle hence the quarrel

-spoken of above. When the old man separated them, the thief went down

-and hid himself in the camp below. Soon after, he saw another horse

-walking by, which he knew to belong to the Shoshones. He sprang on his

-own horse and drove the other one before him towards the mountains on

-the southeast as hard as he could ride. The Shoshones being informed

-of it, four of them started in pursuit and as he got in between the

-mountains they closed in on him, one of the pursuers shooting him dead

-while another one shot his horse. They returned and made this report

-to the others of the tribe at the camp at the same time exhibiting

-fresh blood on one of the rifles. They appear to be much excited and

-continually on the watch. When the men returned, they sat down and made

-a meal of some of these large crickets. They appear to be crisped over

-the fire which is all the cooking required. Many of the brethren have

-traded muskets and rifles for horses and ordinary muskets will buy a

-pretty good horse. They appear to be displeased because we have traded

-with the Utahs and say they own this land, that that the Utahs have

-come over the line, etc. They signified by signs that they wanted to

-sell us the land for powder and lead. The Shoshones are poorer clad

-than the Utahs. They are about the same in stature and there are many

-pleasing countenances among them. Colonel Markham reports that there

-are three lots of land already broke. One lot of thirty-five acres of

-which two-thirds is already planted with buckwheat, corn, oats, etc.

-One lot of eight acres which is all planted with corn, potatoes, beans,

-etc. And a garden of ten acres, four acres of which is sown with garden

-seed. He says there are about three acres of corn already up about two

-inches above the ground and some beans and potatoes up too. This is

-the result of eight days' labor, besides making a road to the timber,

-hauling and sawing timber for a boat, making and repairing plows, etc.

-There have been thirteen plows and three harrows worked during the week.

-

-

-

-August 1847

-

-Sunday, August 1

-

-We have had another cool windy night. At ten o'clock in the morning

-the brethren assembled for meeting under the bower on the temple lot,

-all the members of the quorum of the Twelve being present except

-President Young who is quite sick again. After the meeting had been

-opened by singing and prayer by Elder G. A. Smith, Elder Kimball

-arose and made some remarks to the following effect, as reported by

-Brother Bullock: "I would enquire whether there is a guard out around

-our cattle; if not, let one be placed immediately. The Indians left

-here very suddenly this morning and we don't know their object. If we

-don't take good care of what we have, we will not have any more. It is

-all in the world we shall ever have, for 'to him that receiveth I will

-give more.' We are the sons of God and He will do with us as we would

-do to our children, and inasmuch as I am faithful in taking care of my

-neighbors' goods, I shall be entitled to the same from them, for we

-are commanded to do unto others as we want others to do to us. Every

-penurious man who takes advantage of others will come down to poverty.

-If we have to follow the steps of our Savior we have to follow and

-experience the same things; you will have to feel for men so as to know

-how to sympathize with them and then you can feel for them. I feel for

-this people and grow more feeling for them every day. Our Father in

-Heaven is more tender to us than any mother to her little child. If I

-am faithful to serve others, others will be willing to serve me."

-

-Orson Pratt requested the prayers of the Saints in his behalf: "It

-is with peculiar feelings that I arise before so many of the Saints

-in this uncultivated region inhabited by savages. My mind is full

-of reflection on the scenes through which we have passed and being

-brought through the deserts of sage to this distant region. God's ways

-are not as our ways. It is not wisdom that the Saints should always

-foresee the difficulties they have to encounter for then they would

-not be trials. We expected some revelations to take place and behold

-they are revealed in the Book of Mormon and Doctrine and Covenants,

-for we are to congregate among the remnants of Joseph. We did think

-our wives and children would be built up among the strongholds of the

-gentiles, we thought we should be as Missourians to them. Jehovah had

-different purposes. He designed that this people should be brought

-out almost as an entire people. The Book of Mormon never would have

-been fulfilled if the Saints had not left the gentiles as a people,

-for when the gentiles rejected the Gospel it was to be taken among the

-Lamanites. So long as the Gospel, the Priesthood and the main body of

-the people remained with them, the fullness of the Gospel was not taken

-away from the gentiles. This movement is one of the greatest that has

-taken place among this people. I feel thankful as one of the Twelve for

-the privilege of coming out as one of the pioneers to this glorious

-valley where we can build up a city to the Lord. For many years I have

-not read that good old book, but I remember the predictions in it and

-some that are now very nearly fulfilled by us. Isaiah says, (Chapter

-62) speaking of the City of Zion, it shall be 'Sought out, a city not

-forsaken,' etc. Many in this congregation know what is meant by the

-garments of salvation and the robe of righteousness. Righteousness and

-praise shall spring forth before all the nations of the earth and they

-will not hold their peace. There are many of you that feel you can cry

-day and night to the people in the cause of righteousness until it

-shall triumph. 'For as a young man marrieth a virgin,' etc.--this

-belongs and refers to us. 'I will no longer give thy corn to be meat

-for thine enemy.' This has not been fulfilled heretofore but will be.

-The corn that we toil to raise from the earth, it shall not be given

-to our enemies, they that gather it shall eat it, and they shall drink

-in the courts of His holiness. This wine is also to be drunk in the

-courts of the Lord's house. We have gathered out the stones out of the

-road and thousands will yet fulfil this prophecy. It has reference

-to the latter times that were to dawn upon the world in the last

-dispensation. 'Thou shalt be called, Sought out, A city not forsaken.'

-If ever there was a place sought out it is this, we have enquired

-diligently and have found it. This cannot refer to Jerusalem, but to

-this very place, point and spot that the pioneers have found where a

-city shall be built unto the Lord, where righteousness will reign and

-iniquity not be allowed. Isaiah and Joel both spake very plainly on

-this subject. 'It shall come to pass in the last days that the house of

-the Lord shall be established,' etc. In what part of the earth could

-it be established more than in this place where this congregation is

-gathered. In the midst of the spires of the mountains we have found

-a place large enough to gather a few thousand of the Saints. You may

-travel Europe, Asia, Africa and America but you cannot find a place

-much higher where any people can raise crops and sustain themselves.

-The house of the Lord will be established on the tops of the mountains

-when we shall have once reared here. The experience of the Saints

-proves that there was no house of the Lord, and we can say: travel over

-this earth but you cannot find the house of the Lord. The Lord must

-give the pattern of the building and order it, and give directions to

-His servants. The Lord wants His house built precisely to the pattern

-that He gives and He is bound to speak to and bless and make them His

-own children in that house and I verily believe I shall see it and see

-thousands come flocking to the house to learn the way of salvation.

-And I want to see the time that I shall see thousands raising their

-voices on this consecrated land. There are many testimonies in the

-prophets all bearing upon this subject. Joseph, in the Book of Doctrine

-and Covenants speaks of this very subject and it appears there will be

-some sinners in Zion who will be afraid and a devouring fire will rest

-upon every dwelling place in Zion. 'He that walketh righteously' etc.,

-'He shall dwell on high, bread shall be given him, his water shall

-be sure.' Isaiah was on the eastern continent when he spoke this and

-was speaking of a very distant place. It will be pretty difficult to

-get a ship of war up to this place. When we get used to this healthy

-climate, the people will not say, I am sick, but will be able to smite

-the gentiles. They will grow up strong and will not be in jeopardy

-from sickness. The wilderness shall become as a fruitful field and a

-fruitful field as a forest. We know the time will come that the great

-Jehovah will cause springs of water to gush out of the desert lands

-and we shall see the lands survive that the gentiles have defiled.

-Isaiah speaks of the heritage of Jacob being in a high place. This

-is about four thousand feet above the level of the sea and the high

-mountains will still catch the hail and we shall be in a low place. We

-will not feel discouraged but will feel full of vigor and circumscribe

-all things to the very heavens, for this is what we desire above all

-things. Let us endeavor to covenant in our hearts, that we will serve

-the Lord; that we will keep His commandments and obey His counsel. I

-wish that all of us should be faithful and as President Young said the

-other evening, every man is expected to do his duty. The Lord will be

-with us still; He will shield, guard and defend us by day and be our

-refuge by night, and our salvation. I feel to say in the name of the

-Lord Jesus Christ, you shall be blest if you keep the commandments of

-God. Amen."

-

-Elder Kimball hopes the brethren will be attentive to what they hear

-for if you bring an evil upon this people you will bring destruction

-upon yourself. If you do things according to counsel and they are

-wrong, the consequences will fall on the heads of those who counseled

-you, so don't be troubled. I do not want to be wrapt in the skins of

-some men who have taken a course that has brought destruction upon

-themselves and others, and they will have to answer for it. I am a man

-that would not speak to a man's daughter to marry her until I have

-first spoken to her father and mother also, and then it is done by

-common consent. But I preach the truth, every word of it. President

-Young instructed the Battalion last evening and counseled them for

-their comfort and the counsel is for the brethren to keep their guns

-and their powder and their balls and lead and not let the Indians have

-it for they will shoot down our cattle. They stole guns yesterday and

-had them under their blankets and if you don't attend to this you are

-heating a kettle of boiling water to scald your own feet. If you listen

-to counsel you will let them alone and let them eat the crickets,

-there's a plenty of them. I understand they offered to sell the land

-and we were to buy it of them, the Utahs would want to pay for it too.

-The land belongs to our Father in Heaven and we calculate to plow and

-plant it and no man will have power to sell his inheritance for he

-cannot remove it; it belongs to the Lord. I am glad I have come to a

-place where I feel free. I am satisfied and we are in a goodly land. My

-family is back, my teams are helping on several families and leaving

-ours. If my family were here I would not go over that road again. I

-believe in Brother Joseph's religion which he said was a key that would

-save every man or woman, and that it is for every man to mind his own

-business and let other people's business alone. We will all have farms

-and cultivate them and plant vineyards, and if we are faithful, five

-years will not pass away before we are better off than we ever were

-in Nauvoo. If we had brought our families along everybody else would

-have come; and we must lose another year. We could not bring all the

-soldiers' families for the same reason that we did not bring our own

-families. I thank the Lord that there are so many of the soldiers here.

-If they had tarried in Winter Quarters there would have been many more

-deaths among them. We brought many of these pioneers to save their

-lives, many of them were very sick and were carried out of their beds

-and put into the wagons. They have mostly recovered their health and

-we have been prosperous and have been permitted to arrive here alive.

-There has not one died on the journey, nor an ox nor horse nor anything

-except one of Brother Crow's oxen which was poisoned. We lost several

-horses by accident and we shall be prosperous on our journey back again

-if we are faithful, those of us who go, and we shall see and enjoy

-the society of our families again. We will one day have a house built

-here and have the forts and go into the house and administer for our

-dead. Elder Richards then read an order from Lieut. Cooke of the Mormon

-Battalion on the Pacific, after which Elder Bullock read a letter from

-Jefferson Hunt to James Brown, dated July 6, 1847, after which and a

-few other remarks, the meeting was dismissed.

-

-At 2:25 the congregation assembled and opened by singing and prayer by

-Elder Woodruff. Bread and water were then administered by the bishops

-after which Elder Richards, after a few preliminary remarks, read the

-"Word and will of the Lord," as given in Winter Quarters. Elder Kimball

-made some remarks and the brethren manifested that they received and

-would obey the revelations by uplifted hand. He was followed by remarks

-by Elder Amasa Lyman, mostly sustaining the positions taken by the

-previous speakers. Elder Kimball again rose to lay before the brethren

-some items of business, whereupon it was decided that the three

-companies form into one camp and labor together that the officers be a

-committee to form the corral, and that the corral be formed tomorrow.

-That horses and mules be tied near the camp at nights; that we build

-houses instead of living in wagons this winter; that we go to work

-immediately putting up houses; that we work unitedly; that the houses

-form a stockade or fort to keep out the Indians; that our women and

-children be not abused and that we let the Indians alone.

-

-Colonel Rockwood remarked that a log house 16 by 15 would cost forty

-dollars and one of adobes half as much. Captain Brown was in favor of

-setting men to work building both log and adobe houses to hasten the

-work. Captain Lewis said that inasmuch as timber is scarce and we have

-spades and shovels and tools enough, as many as can be used, he is in

-favor of building adobe houses and saving the timber. Lieutenant Willis

-said you can put up an adobe house before a man could get the logs for

-a log house. Adobe houses are healthy and are the best for equinoxial

-gales. Elder Brannan has a man in California who will take three men,

-make adobes for a thirty foot house, build the house and put a family

-in it in a week. His printing office was put up in fourteen days and a

-paper printed. Elder Richards said we want brick made and lime burned.

-If wood is put into houses it will be a waste of it. We want all the

-timber to make floors and roofs. We want the walls up and we are men

-enough to put them up in a few days and have the women protected.

-It was voted to put up a stockade of adobe houses. Samuel Gould and

-James Drum reported themselves as lime burners. Sylvester H. Earl,

-Joel J. Terrill, Ralph Douglas and Joseph Hancock reported themselves

-as brick makers. Elder Kimball then remarked that those who intend

-to send ox teams back to Winter Quarters must be ready a week from

-tomorrow morning. If the cattle's feet are too tender, have them shod,

-or have new shoes in the wagons. Those oxen to rest and be released

-from plowing, etc. Do not get the Indians around here. I want you to

-have nothing to do with them. After a few remarks on general items, the

-meeting dismissed.

-

-Monday, August 2

-

-We have had another cool night, but morning fine. The other companies

-commenced moving their wagons up and we also moved a little farther

-east. During the day the whole camp was formed in an oblong circle.

-About noon Ezra T. Benson and several others started back to meet the

-next company. They carried a letter, the following being a copy of the

-same:

-

-"Pioneer camp. Valley of the Great Salt Lake, August 2, 1847. To

-General Chas. C. Rich and the Presidents and Officers of the emigrating

-company. Beloved Brethren: We have delegated our beloved Brother Ezra

-T. Benson and escort to communicate to you by express the cheering

-intelligence that we have arrived in the most beautiful valley of the

-Great Salt Lake, that every soul who left Winter Quarters with us

-is alive and almost everyone enjoying good health. That portion of

-the battalion that was at Pueblo is here with us together with the

-Mississippi company that accompanied them and they are generally well.

-We number about 450 souls and we know of no one but who is pleased with

-our situation. We have commenced the survey of a city this morning. We

-feel that the time is fast approaching when those teams that are going

-to Winter Quarters this fall should be on the way. Every individual

-here would be glad to tarry if his friends were here, but as many of

-the battalion, as well as the pioneers, have not their families here

-and do not expect that they are in your camp, we wish to learn by

-express from you, the situation of your camp as speedily as possible

-that we may be prepared to counsel and act in the whole matter. We

-want you to send us the names of every individual in your camp, or in

-other words, a copy of your camp roll, including the names, number of

-wagons, horses, mules, oxen, cows, etc., and the health of your camp,

-your location, prospects, etc. If your teams are worn out, if your camp

-is sick and not able to take care of themselves, if you are short of

-teamsters or any other circumstance impeding your progress. We want to

-know it immediately for we have help for you, and if your teams are in

-good plight and will be able to return to Winter Quarters this season

-or any portion of them, we want to know it. We also want the mail,

-which will include all letters and papers, and packages belonging to

-our camp, general and particular. Should circumstances permit, we would

-gladly meet you some distance from this, but our time is very much

-occupied. Notwithstanding, we think you will see us before you see our

-valley. Let all the brethren and sisters cheer up their hearts and know

-assuredly that God has heard and answered their prayers and ours and

-led us to a goodly land, and our souls are satisfied therewith. Brother

-Benson can give you many particulars that will be gratifying and

-cheering to you which we have not time to write, and we feel to bless

-all the Saints. In behalf of the council. Willard Richards, Clerk.

-Brigham Young, President.

-

-This morning, Elders Pratt and Sherwood commenced surveying the city

-to lay it off in lots but finally concluded to wait until the chain

-could be tested by a standard pole which will have to be gotten from

-the mountains. Some of the brethren are preparing to make moulds

-for adobes. In the evening, Elder Kimball's teams returned from the

-mountains with some good house logs and poles for measuring, etc.

-The day has been very warm but the nights begin to be very cool. The

-northeast winds seem to prevail here at this season and coming from the

-mountains of snow are cold when the sun is down. After dark President

-Young sent for me to come to his wagon and told his calculations about

-our starting back. He wants me to start with the ox teams next Monday

-so as to have a better privilege of taking the distances, etc. He

-calculates the horse teams to start two weeks later, and if the first

-company arrives at Grand Island before the other comes up to wait for

-them there, kill and dry buffalo, etc. He wants the roadometer fixed

-this week and Elder Kimball has selected William King to do the work.

-

-Tuesday, August 3

-

-Morning fine, but cool. Elder Carrington starts for the mountains to

-look for limestone. During the day I went and bathed at Bullock's

-bathing place in one of the warm sulphur springs. I found the effects

-very refreshing and beneficial. Spent most of the day making a table of

-distances, etc. The day very hot.

-

-Wednesday, August 4

-

-This morning William A. King has commenced making a new roadometer. The

-day very hot and close.

-

-Thursday, August 5

-

-Again at the roadometer, day very warm. J. C. Little and others

-have returned and report that they have been at the Utah Lake. As they

-went up they saw bodies of two dead Indians lying on the ground proving

-that there was one of each tribe killed the other day. They consider

-it to be about forty miles to the Utah Lake and on the east side is a

-handsome valley about six or eight miles wide. They are now convinced

-that the stream which runs a few miles below here is the Utah outlet,

-they having followed it to its junction with the lake.

-

-Friday, August 6

-

-The day very warm.

-

-Saturday, August 7

-

-Today William A. King has finished the roadometer which will now tell

-the distance for one thousand miles without keeping any account. About

-noon a very large whirlwind struck the south side of the camp forming

-a cloud of dust about twenty feet in diameter and making a loud roar.

-It carried a chicken up some distance, tore up the bowers, and shook

-the wagons violently in its course. It passed off to the northeast and

-seemed to break at the mountains. This morning fifteen of the brethren

-commenced building a dam a little above the camp so as to bring the

-water around and inside the camp. They finished early in the afternoon

-and we have now a pleasant little stream of cold water running on

-each side the wagons all around the camp. Where the water runs off or

-overflows the gutters, it soon becomes miry and cattle will sink a half

-a yard in mud. This is owing to the lightness of the soil, it being

-very light and rich. In the evening, many of the brethren went and were

-baptized in the dam by Elder Kimball for the remission of sins, Elders

-Pratt, Woodruff, and Smith attending to confirmation. I went and was

-baptized amongst the rest. It has been recommended for all the camp to

-be baptized and this evening they have commenced it.

-

-Sunday, August 8

-

-Morning cloudy with strong northeast wind. The brethren have resumed

-baptizing and a number have obeyed the ordinance both male and female.

-At ten o'clock, a meeting was held in the bowery and instructions given

-to the brethren. At two o'clock, sacrament was administered and 110 of

-the brethren selected to make adobes. Wrote a letter for Heber to Elder

-Martin and others.

-

-Monday, August 9

-

-At eleven o'clock, Brannan, Captain James Brown and several others

-started for San Francisco. Elder J. C. Little accompanies them to

-Fort Hall. I spent three hours taking observations with the barometer

-with Elder Pratt to ascertain the height of the land on the creek above

-the city. Ensign Peak, etc. The twelve had decided on a name for this

-place and a caption for all letters and documents issued from this

-place, which is as follows: Salt Lake City, Great Basin, North America.

-

-Tuesday, August 10

-

-This morning, President Young and Kimball have gone to the adobe yard

-to commence building some houses in that region. They have already got

-many good logs on the ground. Colonel Markham reports that in addition

-to the plowing done week before last, they have plowed about thirty

-acres which is mostly planted, making a total of about eighty acres.

-The plowing ceased last week and the brethren are now making adobes,

-hauling logs, etc. Elder Sherwood continues surveying the city. Tanner

-and Frost are setting wagon tires and have set fifty-two today. The

-brethren who went to the lake on Monday to boil down salt have returned

-this evening and report that they have found a bed of beautiful salt

-ready to load into wagons. It lies between two sand bars and is about

-six inches thick. They suppose they can easily load ten wagons without

-boiling. I have received from Elder Kimball a pair of buckskin pants,

-as a present I suppose, but as I have on similar occasions been

-branded with the idea of receiving a great many kindnesses without

-consideration, I will for this once state a little particular on the

-other side the question. I acknowledge that I have had the privilege of

-riding in a wagon and sleeping in it, of having my victuals cooked and

-some meat and milk, and occasionally a little tea or coffee furnished.

-My flour I furnished myself. I have had no team to take care of. Howard

-Egan has done most of my washing until a month ago in consideration of

-the privilege of copying from my journal, using my desk, ink, etc. The

-balance of my washing I have hired. Now what have I done for Brother

-Kimball? Am I justly indebted on this journey? Answer: I have written

-in his journal 124 pages of close matter on an average of 600 words

-to a page, which if paid at the price of recording deeds in Illinois

-would amount to over $110.00. I have collected the matter myself,

-besides writing letters, etc. This has been for his special benefit.

-I have kept an account of the distance we have traveled for over 800

-miles of the journey, attended to the measurement of the road, kept

-the distances from creek to creek and from one encampment to another;

-put up a guide board every ten miles from Fort John to this place with

-the assistance of Philo Johnson. I have mapped some for Dr. Richards

-and keeping my own journal forms the whole benefit to be derived by

-my family by this mission. I have yet considerable to write in Elder

-Kimball's journal before I return. I am expected to keep a table of

-distances of the whole route returning from here to Winter Quarters and

-make a map when I get through, and this for public benefit. Now how

-much am I considered to be in debt, and how often will it be said that

-I was furnished by others with victuals, clothing, etc., that I might

-enjoy this journey as a mission of pleasure. I have spent most of this

-day calculating the height of this spot above the level of the sea for

-Elder Pratt.

-

-Wednesday, August 11

-

-Early this morning, a large company of the Utah Indians came to

-visit the camp and it was with difficulty they could be kept outside

-the wagons. There are few of them who have any clothing on except

-the breech clout and are mostly of low stature. They have scarcely

-anything to trade and not many women and children with them. They are

-camped about three miles north of west and supposed to be going north

-hunting. One of them was detected stealing some clothing which lay

-on the bushes to dry, but was made to leave it. When they found they

-were not permitted inside the circle, they soon moved off to their

-camp. The brethren have commenced laying the adobe wall today which

-will be twenty-seven inches thick and nine feet high. The adobes are

-18 inches long, 9 inches broad and 41/2 inches thick. The brethren in

-camp have finished the skiff and launched her in the creek to soak.

-About five o'clock, a child of Therlkill's was found in the creek

-south of the camp drowned. Various efforts were made to restore it but

-unsuccessfully. The child was about three years old and its parents

-mourn the accident bitterly. The day has been very hot, but as usual,

-at sundown we have a strong, cool wind from the northeast.

-

-Thursday, August 12

-

-Spent the forenoon with Elder Pratt in taking observations to ascertain

-the height of the temple block above the Utah outlet which he found to

-be sixty-five feet. The altitude one mile up the creek above the temple

-block is 214 feet and the altitude of the temple block above the level

-of the sea is 4,300 feet. The latitude 40 deg. 45' 50". The blacksmiths are

-very busy shoeing oxen and there is prospect that the ox teams will

-start back on Monday or Tuesday. The soldiers are getting dissatisfied

-at being kept here so long from their families and yesterday several of

-them left the camp secretly to go to Winter Quarters and this morning

-others are gone, but it is probable that President Young knows nothing

-of it yet although about a dozen are already gone and others are

-preparing to follow them. On Tuesday President Young laid a foundation

-for four houses; Elder Kimball four, Colonel Markham one, Dr. Richards

-one, and Lorenzo Young two, and today Dr. Richards has laid the

-foundation of another, George A. Smith two and Wilford Woodruff two,

-making a total of seventeen houses mostly fourteen feet wide and from

-twelve to seventeen long. Elder Kimball has his house four logs high.

-

-Friday, August 13

-

-Spent the day mostly writing. The brethren have got 130 bushels of salt

-with twenty-four hours labor.

-

-Saturday, August 14

-

-Started at 8:40 in company with a number of others for the Salt Lake.

-We arrived at three o'clock and estimated the distance twenty-two

-miles. We all bathed in it and found the reports of those who had

-previously bathed in no ways exaggerated. We returned back to the river

-where we arrived at eleven o'clock at the beginning of a light thunder

-shower. There is no pure fresh water between the river and the lake.

-

-Sunday, August 15

-

-President Young preached on the death of little children, etc. Evening

-the company composing those who are returning with the ox teams met

-and voted that Shadrach Roundy and Tunis Rappleyee be captains. They

-received instructions to start tomorrow and travel leisurely to Grand

-Island and there wait for the last company of horse teams. J. C.

-Little and company returned yesterday from Utah Lake, and this morning

-the exploring company returned.

-

-Monday, August 16

-

-Spent most of the day fixing the roadometer, also finished marking the

-distances, camping places,, etc., on Dr. Richards' map from Devil's

-gate to Little Sandy. Evening took the wagon in company with Jackson

-Redding and Howard Egan to the warm spring to try the roadometer. We

-found the distance to be one and a half miles. Most of the company of

-ox teams have started today for Winter Quarters. They will go to the

-canyon and wait there till morning. After dark, Elder Kimball called a

-number of us together in the tent and each one present selected a lot

-for himself and family. I had previously selected lots 1, 7 and 8 on

-block 95, but President Young broke into our arrangements and wished 7

-and 8 reserved, consequently I made choice of lots 1, 2 and 3 on block

-95.

-

-Tuesday, August 17

-

-Started out at 8:10 and found the distance to the mouth of the canyon

-five miles, the difference arising from making a road across instead

-of following the first one. One and three quarters of a mile farther

-arrived at where the company had camped for the night and found them

-all ready to start, only waiting for President Young to arrive and give

-some instructions, but he sent word he should not come and we started

-forward. Elders Kimball and Richards soon overtook the company, gave

-some instructions, then returned and the company moved on. On arriving

-at Birch Spring, we encamped for the night, having traveled thirteen

-and a half miles. There is considerable danger of cattle miring near

-the spring and several have already had to be pulled out. This company

-consists of seventy-one men with thirty-three wagons. After camping,

-the brethren were called together by Captain Roundy for the purpose

-of organizing. He briefly stated the manner of the organization of

-the camp when we left Winter Quarters and it was unanimously voted to

-organize after the same pattern which was done as follows:

-

-1st Division

-

-  1st Ten

-

-  Joseph Skeen, Captain

-  Wm. Burt

-  Artemas Johnson

-  James Dunn

-  James Cazier

-  Joseph Shipley

-  Geo. Cummings

-  Samuel Badham

-  Thos. Richardson

-  Roswell Stevens

-

-  2nd Ten

-

-  Zebedee Coltrin, Captain

-  Wm. Bird

-  Chester Loveland

-  Josiah Curtis

-  Lorenzo Babcock

-  John S. Eldridge

-  Samuel H. Marble

-  Horace Thornton

-  Geo. Scholes

-

-  3rd Ten

-

-  Francis Boggs, Captain

-  Geo. Wardle

-  Sylvester H. Earl

-  Seeley Owens

-  Almon M. Williams

-  Clark Stillman

-

-Tunis Rappleyee, Captain of 1st Division. James Cazier Captain of Guard

-in 1st Division.

-

-2nd Division

-

-  1st Ten

-

-  Jackson Redding, Captain

-  Robert Biard

-  Wm. Carpenter

-  Benj. W. Rolfe

-  Henry W. Sanderson

-  Thos. Cloward

-  Bailey Jacobs

-  Lisbon Lamb

-  John Pack

-  Wm. Clayton

-

-  2nd Ten

-

-  John H. Tippets, Captain

-  Lyman Stevens

-  Francis T. Whitney

-  Lyman Curtis

-  James Stewart

-  John S. Gleason

-  Chas. A. Burke

-  Myron Tanner

-  Wm. McLellan

-  Rufus Allen

-  Norman Taylor

-

-  3rd Ten

-

-  Allen Cumpton, Captain

-  Franklin Allen

-  John Bybee

-  David Garner

-  J. Averett

-  Harmon D. Persons

-  John G. Smith

-  Solomon Tindal

-  Philip Garner

-  Chas. Hopkins

-  Barnabas Lake

-

-  4th Ten

-

-  Andrew J. Shoop, Captain

-  Albert Clark

-  Francillo Durfee

-  James Hendrickson

-  Erastus Bingham

-  John Calvert

-  Loren Kenney

-  Daniel Miller

-  Benj. Roberts

-  Luther W. Glazier

-  Jarvis Johnson

-  Thos. Bingham

-

-Shadrack Roundy, Captain of 2nd Division. John Gleason, Captain of

-Guard.

-

-The soldiers were numbered with the 2nd Division, 3rd and 4th tens.

-

-Those who have horses to ride were then numbered and their duty pointed

-out, which is to lead the way and fix the road where it needs it; look

-out camping places; drive the loose cattle and hunt for the camp. Their

-names are as follows: John Pack, Captain, Samuel Badham, Francillo

-Durfee, Benj. Roberts, Thomas Bingham, James Hendrickson, John

-Eldridge, R. I. Redding, Seeley Owens, Barnabas Lake, Wm. Bird,

-Daniel Miller, James Cazier.

-

-Wednesday, August 18

-

-We had a little rain this morning and the air very cool. We started at

-8:00 a.m. and found the road rough indeed. When ascending the mountain

-from Brown's Creek, most of the teams had to double, it generally

-requiring six yoke of oxen to bring up an empty wagon. The descent is

-also very rough and especially where the road crosses the dry creek

-which is a great many times. Canyon Creek appeared rougher than when we

-first went up it and it took till near night to get to the end of the

-creek, having traveled only fifteen and three quarters miles during the

-day.

-

-Thursday, August 19

-

-We got started again about 8:00 a.m., all except Chas. A. Burke. One of

-his oxen was missing. Before noon several of the loose cattle gave out

-through being over driven. We arrived and camped on Red Mountain Creek

-at six o'clock, having traveled sixteen and a quarter miles. The day

-has been very hot but nights are very cold.

-

-Friday, August 20

-

-Morning very cold. Started out at seven and traveled till 12:30, the

-day being cool, then rested and baited an hour. At 1:30 proceeded again

-and arrived at Cache or Reddings Cave at 5:00 p.m., having traveled

-twenty and a half miles, but it was nearly seven o'clock before the

-company arrived.

-

-Saturday, August 21

-

-Started at 7:30 a.m. and traveled till 12:00 then baited an hour. We

-found Bear River not over fifteen inches deep. We camped on Sulphur

-Creek at five o'clock having traveled sixteen and a half miles and

-after camping I went with the brethren to fill their tar buckets at

-the oil spring. We followed a wagon trail made by a part of Hasting's

-company last year about a mile and found the spring situated in a

-ravine a little to the left of the road just at the edge of a high

-bench of land. The ground is black over with the oil for several rods

-but it is baked hard by exposure to the sun. It is difficult to get

-the clear oil, most of it being filled with dust and gravel. It smells

-much like British oil and is said to do well for greasing wagons. John

-Gleason has found a coal bed in the edge of the mountain across the

-creek. The coal looks good and burns freely.

-

-Sunday, August 22

-

-Many of the cattle were missing this morning but after much search were

-found about four miles southwest from camp. We started at nine o'clock

-and traveled till one, then halted an hour at the copperas spring. Most

-of the wagons halted at the spring four miles back. The water of this

-spring is not bad, cattle drink it freely. At two o'clock we began to

-ascend the ridge and at five formed our camp near the Muddy fork having

-traveled seventeen and three quarters miles, the day cool and cloudy.

-

-Monday, August 23

-

-We started early this morning and arrived at Fort Bridger at one

-o'clock. We found the grass pretty much eaten off and only stayed an

-hour and a half while some of the brethren traded some, then went

-on eight miles farther and camped on a stream two rods wide, having

-traveled twenty-one and a half miles, the day very cool.

-

-Tuesday, August 24

-

-This morning many of the cattle had strayed several miles from camp

-which prevented our starting till eight o'clock. We traveled eight and

-a half miles, then halted an hour on Black's Fork. We proceeded again

-and had a pretty heavy thunder shower and arrived at Ham's Fork at

-5:20, then camped for the night, having traveled twenty-three miles.

-Most of the wagons did not arrive till nearly night, but we had no

-place to camp short of this and here we have good range for cattle.

-

-Wednesday, August 25

-

-We traveled today twenty-three miles and camped on Green River. We

-found several places where the road is shortened some, but it is yet

-about sixteen miles from water to water.

-

-Thursday, August 26

-

-Started at eight o'clock and went on to the Big Sandy and before the

-majority of the company arrived, E. T. Benson and escort came up

-with letters from the companies. They say there are nine companies

-between here and the Platte with 566 wagons and about 5,000 head of

-stock. They report the companies well and getting along tolerably fast,

-some they expect we shall meet within three days. After eating they

-proceeded on. After sundown a large party of mounted Indians came up,

-and camped on the opposite side the river. They have been on the Sweet

-Water hunting and are said to be of the Shoshone tribe.

-

-Friday, August 27

-

-Many of the brethren traded sugar, powder, lead, etc., to the Indians

-for robes and skins and meat. We started soon after seven and traveled

-to the crossing of the Big Sandy. Then after halting an hour, continued

-to the Little Sandy, making twenty-five and a quarter miles today, but

-it was nine o'clock before some of the wagons arrived. The feed is

-mostly eaten up on the creeks near the road and there is none except on

-the banks of streams. Bailey Jacobs killed a large antelope which is a

-matter of rejoicing as we are nearly out of bread stuff and had little

-meat for several days. We started back from the valley with 8 lbs. of

-flour, 9 lbs. of meal and a few beans each, and we have to depend on

-getting meat on the road for the rest. I was told there were 25 lbs. of

-flour put up for me, but I find it is not so.

-

-Saturday, August 28

-

-Started at eight o'clock and traveled till half past three before

-halting when we arrived at the crossing of the Pacific creek and halted

-to camp for the night having traveled twenty-three miles. There is no

-grass from Little Sandy to this place except a very little on Dry Sandy

-but the water there has some taste of alkali and teams do not like it.

-Here there is considerable grass along the creek and very good water

-but no wood except wild sage. We had a heavy thunder shower about four

-o'clock and considerable hail. It was dark before the ox teams arrived.

-Some of the men had killed a buffalo a few miles back, but it is very

-poor.

-

-Sunday, August 29

-

-It was decided to remain here today to rest the teams, but our ten

-obtained leave to go on to Sweet Water, expecting to meet the company,

-and after reading the letter of instructions from the council to

-this camp, my wagon proceeded on slowly. At the Springs, we saw

-an aged Indian squaw near the road dwelling in a shelter composed

-merely of wild sage and apparently dependent on passing emigrants

-for subsistence. She is doubtless left to perish on account of age

-and infirmity, but it is likely she will live some time on what she

-receives from those who pass by. When we arrived near the summit of the

-dividing ridge or south pass, two Indians rode towards us and motioned

-for us to stop. Not seeing the other wagons coming after, we stopped to

-wait for the wagons and the Indians soon arrived. They made signs that

-a large party of them were over the mountain north and they wanted to

-"swap." While they were conversing a number more rode over the ridge

-and soon after a still larger number. About this time the wagons came

-in sight and when the brethren saw so many Indians they were alarmed.

-John Pack rode back to the main camp to get some of the brethren to

-come up, but J. R. said he would not budge a foot. The brethren

-behind were much alarmed, some expecting to be scalped and one W. Carr

-ran and hid himself in the sage bushes. No one returned with John Pack

-but Norman Taylor and the wagons proceeded towards us. In the meantime,

-after learning the object for which the Indians sought us, that none of

-them were armed except two, and by a certificate that the first visitor

-was a Shoshone chief, Brother Lamb and myself signified that we would

-trade with them and soon some of them returned with antelope, buck and

-elk skins and robes to trade. I traded some balls and a little powder

-for one robe, one elk skin, two buckskins and nine antelope skins and

-a pair of moccasins. Lamb bought five antelope skins. While we were

-trading, the other wagons arrived and also commenced trading. The

-Indians, about sixty in number, about twenty of them boys, all mounted,

-seemed highly pleased to trade with us which we did mostly through the

-chief. By request of the chief, I gave him a certificate stating that

-he appeared friendly and wanted to trade with the whites, etc. The

-chief gave us a very strong invitation to go to their camp to trade and

-made signs that they would feed us well and we should sleep with them.

-I answered him by signs that we should camp when we arrived where the

-road crossed the Sweet Water but they were very anxious to have us then

-turn off the road and camp. After we started, the chief came up and

-wanted to swap a good mule for my spy glass but I refused. I had let

-him look through it and he seemed very wishful to try it. When they saw

-we were determined to go on, they left us and returned to their camp

-while we pursued our journey to the first crossing of Sweet Water where

-we arrived and camped at six o'clock, having traveled fourteen miles.

-

-Monday, August 30

-

-This morning the cattle belonging to the camp behind came to us early,

-having strayed away. John Pack and Bailey Jacobs went to drive them

-back and to trade some with the Indians. We calculated to go on about

-eleven miles but before we started, Father Eldridge came up with his

-wagon and said he expected Spencer's 1st 50 company up soon. We then

-concluded to stay here until they arrived and about three o'clock,

-their wagons began to cross the creek. I was glad to find Aaron and

-Loren Farr, and William Walker in this company with their families all

-well and in good spirits. From Sister Olivia, I received some articles

-sent by my family which were very acceptable indeed and made me feel

-grateful. This company all appear well and cheerful and are not much

-troubled on account of lack of teams. I spent the evening with Loren

-and their families. The balance of our camp arrived before dark.

-

-Tuesday, August 31

-

-Our camp except this ten has started on, but Brother Spencer has

-concluded to halt here today and I spent the day copying tables of

-distances for Loren and also gave him a plot of the city.

-

-

-

-September 1847

-

-Wednesday, September 1

-

-We bid farewell to Brother Spencer's company and proceeded on. After

-traveling about a mile, we met P. P. Pratt going to see Brother

-Spencer and to get some cattle. He says some of the back companies

-have lost many head and can scarcely move. A few miles farther we met

-the 2nd 50 of Spencer's company. We traveled till nearly dark and

-camped with the returning pioneers at the cold spring, having traveled

-twenty-two and a quarter miles. The day fine and pleasant. We find the

-grass pretty much eaten off all the way. John G. Smith was appointed

-captain of the 2nd division in place of Shadrach Roundy who returns.

-

-Thursday, September 2

-

-Started about eight o'clock and after traveling two miles passed

-Russell's company of 50 and about five miles farther we passed Elder

-Rich's 50 and G. B. Wallace's 50. They all agree to the health and

-prosperity of their companies but have lost many cattle and have had

-hard work to get along. We passed Captains Foutz and Hone on this long

-drive with their companies all well, but complaining much for lack of

-teams. I conversed some with Edward Hunter and Elder Taylor. Brother

-Hunter will give cash for some cattle if he can buy them. We arrived on

-Sweet Water at six o'clock but the ox teams did not get in till eight

-o'clock, having traveled twenty-four and a half miles. The evening was

-very cold, windy and like for rain. Brother Roundy returned back to the

-valley this morning, having met his family.

-

-Friday, September 3

-

-We started on this morning following the new road at the north side

-of the Sweet Water, the road sandy in places but much better than the

-old road. After traveling about two miles, we saw a lone buffalo about

-two miles to the south. John Pack and Lisbon Lamb went to try to kill

-him and finally succeeded, on which our ten halted and sent back a

-wagon for the meat which detained us about three hours, after which we

-proceeded again. A little before the road fords the river the second

-time, there is an alkali lake a little north from the road. We joined

-the company and also met J. B. Noble's company where the road

-joins the old one again. Brother Noble's company are all well and not

-so bad off for teams as some of the other companies. We proceeded on a

-few miles farther and met J. M. Grant with Willard Snow's 50 which

-is the last company on the road. Brother Grant had a child die last

-night and his wife is yet very sick and not much expected to recover.

-This company have lost many cattle and are so bad off for teams as not

-to be able to travel more than ten miles a day which would make it some

-day in October before they get through. We went on nearly two miles

-farther, then camped for the night near Bitter Cottonwood creek, having

-traveled fifteen and three quarters miles. Most of the company camped

-back with Brother Snow's company.

-

-Saturday, September 4

-

-We started late this morning and traveled over a very sandy road till

-five o'clock, then camped on Ravine Creek, having traveled sixteen

-miles.

-

-Sunday, September 5

-

-There being alkali springs near, we concluded to go to Independence

-Rock at which place we arrived about three o'clock having traveled

-twelve and a half miles. Soon after we camped, Lamb and Jacob Cloward

-went to chase some buffalo and succeeded in killing one. I walked over

-the rock and had some solemn meditations and felt to humble myself and

-call upon the Lord for myself and family, for this company, the twelve

-and all the companies on the road. Experience has taught me many maxims

-of late and I intend to profit by them. Be not hasty to promise, lest

-thy promise be considered worthless. Make not many promises without

-reflection, lest thou fail to fulfill them and it dampen the confidence

-of thy friend. If thou promise many things and regard not to fulfill

-them and it damp the confidence of thy friend, then be assured that thy

-friends will despise thy promises and have no dependence in them. Seek

-not to speculate out of a good brother.

-

-Monday, September 6

-

-This morning the cattle were found down the Sweet Water about six miles

-from camp which made it late before we started. While passing the

-alkali lakes, a number of the brethren filled the bags with saleratus.

-We found the road very sandy to Greasewood Creek and after that it was

-somewhat better. About three o'clock the wind began to blow very strong

-and cold and we had heavy rain for about two hours.

-

-We proceeded on and arrived at the Willow Spring a little before dark

-in the midst of a heavy shower of rain. Thomas Cloward left one of the

-old oxen sent back by Wallace on the road. It died before morning.

-All except our ten and William's stayed back at Greasewood Creek. We

-tried in vain to make a fire but finally went to bed wet and cold,

-having eaten nothing since morning. Some of the teamsters have only a

-light summer coat with them and they suffer considerably. We traveled

-twenty-one and a half miles today.

-

-Tuesday, September 7

-

-This morning our cattle were all missing and it still rains and snows

-very heavily. Pack and T. Cloward started early on foot to hunt the

-cattle but after following them over seven miles in the storm and

-seeing that they had kept on the road towards the Platte river, they

-returned to camp. It rained and snowed heavily till eleven o'clock at

-which time the balance of the camp arrived. John Pack asked the company

-to let us have some of their loose cattle to bring on our wagons till

-we overtook ours again, but the captains both generously refused for

-some cause or other. However, some of the brethren took their cattle

-out of their teams and let us have them and we moved onward. After

-traveling about thirteen miles we saw our cattle about four miles to

-the left of the road at the foot of a mountain. We halted and Lamb took

-one of the mules to fetch the cattle to the road. Soon after Pack and

-Jackson Redding came up and learning that we had found the cattle, they

-started to them to drive them to camp and Lamb being relieved, returned

-to the wagon. We harnessed up and arrived at the mineral spring about

-six o'clock, having traveled sixteen and a quarter miles. This spring

-has been represented as poisonous but if it is so, it must be in

-consequence of minerals under the water. The water has no bad taste

-till the cattle trample in it. It then becomes almost black as ink and

-this is probably what makes it poisonous.

-

-Wednesday, September 8

-

-We started at eight o'clock and arrived at the Upper Platte ferry soon

-after twelve o'clock. We found N. Jacobs and company there hunting.

-We forded the river and found it about two feet deep in the channel.

-We halted on the banks about two hours at which time the whole camp

-arrived. We then proceeded on. The main company went about five miles

-but we went till we found a good camping place in a grove of timber on

-the banks of the river where the road runs through, then halted for

-night, having traveled nineteen miles.

-

-Thursday, September 9

-

-This morning Norton Jacob's company joined us at eight o'clock and

-we moved forward. Found the road rough, it being cut up by the other

-companies in wet weather. We arrived on Deer Creek about sundown and

-camped for the night, having traveled twenty-two and a quarter miles.

-The day fine and very pleasant. Joseph Hancock killed an elk which the

-brethren packed to camp on horseback about sixteen miles.

-

-Friday, September 10

-

-We have had a strong southwest wind all night and the morning is

-somewhat cool. We started a little before eight o'clock and had good

-traveling. We saw many herds of buffalo but the hunters did not get

-any while passing. We arrived at the river A La Perle at three o'clock

-and camped for the night having traveled seventeen and a half miles.

-A while before dark, some of the men came in with a part of a buffalo

-which they killed. Lewis Barney also killed a young one which was

-considerably fat. The meat was all packed in on horses. One of the men

-killed a wolf out of which we got considerable grease for the wagons.

-It was decided to have a guard each night the remainder of the journey,

-every man to stand in his turn, four each night.

-

-Saturday, September 11

-

-Got up at twelve o'clock and stood guard till daylight. The morning

-very fine and pleasant. Three of the brethren arrived from the camp

-back and said that during the night before last the Indians had

-stolen sixteen or seventeen of their horses and they were in pursuit

-of them. We were detained some on account of several of the horses

-having rambled off, but about nine o'clock we started on and traveled

-to the La Bonte River, distance nineteen and a half miles. There are

-many buffalo around here also and although we have plenty of meat, the

-brethren continue to kill them. We find the feed eaten off bare almost

-every place we come to and it is difficult to find grass to sustain our

-teams.

-

-Sunday, September 12

-

-We traveled this day seventeen and three quarters miles and camped

-by Heber's Spring on Horseshoe Creek. We found the spring had ceased

-running but there was water in the creek a little north. The roadometer

-has broken down today over the same ground it broke as we went west.

-Our bread stuff is now out and we have to live solely on meat the

-balance of the journey. John Pack has got flour enough to last him

-through. We have all messed together until ours was eaten, and now John

-Pack proposes for each man to mess by himself. He has concealed his

-flour and beans together with tea, coffee, sugar, etc., and cooks after

-the rest have gone to bed. Such things seem worthy of remembrance for a

-time to come.

-

-Monday, September 13

-

-We fixed the roadometer this morning, then traveled to Dead Timber

-Creek, distance fifteen miles. Here we find good feed and plenty of

-wood and water.

-

-Tuesday, September 14

-

-Started at nine o'clock and traveled till about five, then camped on

-the Platte River, having traveled twenty-four and a quarter miles. In

-consequence of some things which have passed and some which at present

-exist, I have concluded to go on as fast as circumstances will permit

-to Winter Quarters and I intend to start tomorrow. Some have opposed

-it, but not with a good grace. However, I have no fears that the

-council will censure me when they know the cause. If they do, I will

-bear the censure in preference to what I now bear. Before dark Luke

-Johnson, William A. Empey and Appleton Harmon came up from Laramie,

-having learned from an Indian that wagons were near. They say that a

-party of Sioux warriors have got the brethren's horses, seventeen in

-number, on the Raw Hide, about eighteen miles north. They say that

-about fifty armed men might go and probably get them, but not fewer.

-The Sioux are at war with the Crows and Pawnees and reports say that

-there is a large party of the Pawnees a little down the river.

-

-Wednesday, September 15

-

-We started a little after eight, forded the Platte without any

-difficulty and at three o'clock concluded to stop for the night, having

-traveled twenty-one and a quarter miles over very sandy road. The ox

-teams have kept nearly up with us and it is evident they intend to keep

-with us or kill their teams, and being aware that if the teams are

-injured we shall be blamed for it, we have given up going ahead to save

-the teams.

-

-Thursday, September 16

-

-Today we traveled nineteen and a half miles over good road and camped

-near the river amongst good grass.

-

-Friday, September 17

-

-This morning Thomas Brown, Ezra Beckstead, Mathew Welch, Benjamin

-Roberts, David Perkins and William Bird started to go through to Winter

-Quarters in consequence of having no bread. We traveled nineteen and

-three quarters miles and camped again on the Platte. The road very good.

-

-Saturday, September 18

-

-Last night John Pack's gray horse was stolen from his wagon. He lays

-it to the brethren ahead and with Norton Jacobs and Joseph Hancock has

-heaped a pretty long string of severe abusive language on them which

-I consider to be premature, unjustifiable and wicked. Two Frenchmen

-came to the camp and said they were camped below on a trading excursion

-among the Sioux. Inasmuch as some of the brethren wanted to trade with

-them, it was concluded to move down opposite to them. We accordingly

-traveled four and a quarter miles then again camped on the banks of the

-river and the brethren bought a number of buffalo robes, etc. Norton

-Jacobs bought five robes for seven common calico shirts.

-

-Sunday, September 19

-

-The traders say they will move down the river today to where there are

-plenty of buffalo. Our camp also traveled ten and three quarters miles

-and camped a little below Chimney Rock. There are many herds of buffalo

-around and Lewis Barney killed one which will give us a little fresh

-meat. The weather has been very fine and warm for some days past. This

-evening there are some signs of stormy weather.

-

-Monday, September 20

-

-Today we traveled seven and a quarter miles, the day very hot. We

-turned off the road to camp at Rubidoos' request while they killed some

-buffalo. They gave us some very nice meat.

-

-Tuesday, September 21

-

-We have concluded to wait here until the balance of the company

-arrives. Afternoon went over the river and had a good feast on buffalo

-ribs with the Frenchmen. The victuals were cooked by a squaw but looked

-much cleaner than our men cook it. Evening it became cloudy and soon

-followed by cold rain which continued till two o'clock.

-

-Wednesday, September 22

-

-At one o'clock, I got up to stand guard and found the night extremely

-cold and unpleasant on account of rain. The morning is cloudy and cold.

-The wagons have not yet come in sight which makes us think there is

-something the matter with them.

-

-Thursday, September 23

-

-Today Jackson Redding and Sanderson went back to see if they could see

-the other wagons. They returned at night and said the company were

-within a few miles having been detained at Laramie to recover their

-horses, most of which they got. They state that news has come to the

-fort by a Sioux Indian that the twelve and their company had all their

-horses stolen at the Pacific Springs during a snow storm. The Sioux

-stole them supposing them to belong to the Shoshones. The man that

-brought the news stole seventeen but lost eight in the mountains, the

-remainder he brought to Laramie and the brethren there knew some of

-them and demanded them. He gave them up, at least all they could prove

-and four of the brethren started with them to meet the twelve. The

-Indian says there were nine of them who stole the horses.

-

-Friday, September 24

-

-We resumed our journey this morning and traveled thirteen and a half

-miles, then camped where the road runs close to the river. The weather

-is again fine and hot in the day time but the nights are cold and

-frosty. Joseph Hancock killed a buffalo cow and John Norton an antelope

-which will supply the company with a little meat each, most of whom are

-without.

-

-Saturday, September 25

-

-The day cloudy and some like for a storm. We made an early start and

-traveled to Crab Creek, distance twenty and a quarter miles then

-camped for the night. The land on both sides the river is literally

-spotted with vast herds of buffalo, but our hunters are not very lucky

-as yet. From the fact of there being so many buffalo in this region,

-we are inclined to believe we shall see but few lower down and this

-is probably the best chance we will have to lay in a supply to last

-us home. During the afternoon, Joseph Hancock killed a buffalo cow

-and Captain Rappleyee sent a wagon to fetch the meat to camp. When it

-arrived John Pack took the hind quarters and the best meat off the rest

-of the cow, together with all the tallow, then sent for Rappleyee to

-take what he had left and divide it amongst the company. When Rappleyee

-saw what he had done, he felt angry and Pack and he had some high words

-on the subject. Brother Pack's conduct has caused many unpleasant

-feelings against him among the brethren. He takes all the tallow he can

-lay his hands on, and all the best meat and has now got more than will

-serve him home while many of the rest have scarcely any and that of

-the poorest pieces. He has plenty of flour, meal, beans, tea, coffee,

-sugar, etc., while most of the camp are destitute of everything but

-meat, and while he continues to take the tallow and best of the meat

-there will be hard feelings against him. He has disgraced himself in

-the estimation of many within the past few days. I do not think I can

-ever forget him for his treatment of me, but I cherish no malice nor

-feelings of revenge, but I hope and pray that I may forever have wisdom

-to keep from under his power. There have been six or eight buffalo

-killed by the camp and it is intended to stay here tomorrow and try to

-get meat to last us through as it is not likely we shall have another

-privilege as good as this. Most of the camp now begin to feel that it

-is necessary for us to make our way home as fast as possible to save

-our teams and escape the cold rain and snowstorms.

-

-Sunday, September 26

-

-Many of the brethren are gone out hunting. The weather continues fine

-and warm. In the afternoon we had a strong northwest wind. During the

-day the second division killed more than enough meat to last them home,

-but were totally unwilling to let the first division have any although

-they killed none, not having but two or three guns in the division.

-This also has tended to increase the feeling of envy and bitterness

-which already exists too much. Thomas Cloward has manifested feelings

-and conduct worse than the general run of gentiles and unworthy of a

-saint. He seems to have drunk into Pack's spirit for they act very much

-alike.

-

-Monday, September 27

-

-Those of the first division who have no meat have concluded to move

-on a few miles to where there are more buffalo as they have mostly

-left here, but the second division will not move till they have dried

-their meat some. We went on three miles and then camped where there

-are plenty of buffalo over the river. Lisbon Lamb, Lewis Barney and

-John Norton volunteered to go and kill what meat they can for those who

-have none. They have got enough to last them through. It is said that

-our coming down here has given feelings but it is plain and evident

-that there are several men who will find fault and deal out wholesale

-censure whatever is done, and for my part I shall remember John Pack,

-Thomas Cloward, Norton Jacobs and Joseph Hancock for some time to come.

-Such little, selfish, unmanly conduct as has been manifested by them,

-is rarely exhibited except by the meanest classes of society. A man who

-will openly and boldly steal is honorable when compared with some of

-their underhanded conduct. During the day the brethren killed five cows

-and one bull which are considered sufficient to last the first division

-home.

-

-Tuesday, September 28

-

-We waited till after nine o'clock for the second division to come up

-but not being yet in sight we moved onward, traveled seventeen and a

-half miles, then camped on Sand Hill Creek about a mile from the river.

-We have seen more buffalo today than I ever saw in one day, supposed to

-be not less than 200,000. We had some trouble to make a road through

-them safely. We also saw two horses with the herd. Jackson Redding went

-to try and catch them but found them perfectly wild.

-

-Wednesday, September 29

-

-We got an early start this morning and traveled till four o'clock,

-distance twenty and a quarter miles. We camped near the river in high

-grass. The road has run close to the river all day except a few miles

-beyond Castle Creek and although the ground is perfectly dry, it is

-very rough, it having been cut up in wet weather. Watch and Wolfe

-Creeks had abundance of water in them, as much as when we went up.

-Castle River was about a foot deep. We have not seen many buffalo today

-but after we camped, John Norton shot two at one shot. L. Barney also

-killed a young cow. The weather is yet fine and very warm.

-

-Thursday, September 30

-

-This day we traveled only sixteen and a quarter miles, then camped a

-quarter of a mile east of Rattlesnake Creek on the banks of the river.

-In this creek, there is still a very heavy current of water running. It

-appears that some of the brethren left their fires burning this morning

-and the prairie has caught fire and is still burning furiously.

-

-

-

-October 1847

-

-Friday, October 1

-

-This morning I wrote a short letter and left it in a post for the

-company behind. We traveled twenty miles and camped on Bluff Creek. The

-day fine and very warm.

-

-Saturday, October 2

-

-This morning we calculated to travel eleven miles, but on arriving at

-the North Bluff fork, we found no grass and were compelled to continue

-on. We traveled till the road strikes the river and some grass, then

-camped, having traveled eighteen and a half miles. Three buffalo have

-been killed today and there are considerable in this region. Two of the

-oxen gave out and had to be left on the road.

-

-Sunday, October 3

-

-This morning we traveled four and a quarter miles, then camped opposite

-some islands where there is pretty good feed and willows. The day has

-been exceedingly warm and the brethren have dried a good quantity of

-meat. Considerable anxiety and feeling has originated in the breasts

-of two or three brethren in consequence of a rumor being circulated

-which deeply concerns one individual but it is not known whom. In the

-evening, a strong north wind blew up which made it turn very cool.

-

-Monday, October 4

-

-Cool and pleasant. We traveled twenty and three quarters miles and

-found that the last company have made a new road near the bluffs to

-avoid a very bad slough. We went a little on the old road and then

-struck across to the new road but had considerable difficulty in

-crossing the slough. We camped beside a small lake of not very good

-water and several miles from timber.

-

-Tuesday, October 5

-

-Pleasant day. We traveled nineteen miles, then turned off the road

-about a half a mile to camp near a small bunch of timber. The brethren

-have killed a good many buffalo today. They are very plentiful here,

-and wolves abundant.

-

-Wednesday, October 6

-

-The largest part of the company again concluded to tarry a day again

-although there is little feed here. Some determined to go on a piece

-and amongst the rest, I felt more willing to go on than to tarry.

-Accordingly eleven wagons started, viz. Jackson Redding, William

-A. Empey, Lewis Barney, Roswell Stevens, Cummings, Joseph Hancock,

-H. W. Sanderson, John Pack, Thos. Cloward, Zebedee Coltrin and

-Norton Jacobs. We traveled seventeen and a half miles and then turned

-off the road about a half a mile to camp.

-

-Thursday, October 7

-

-We started a little before 10:00 a.m. and traveled till nearly dark and

-had then to run over a mile from the road to camp. We traveled nineteen

-and a quarter miles. Wind very strong from the north and a very cold

-day.

-

-Friday, October 8

-

-Just as we started this morning, twelve or fifteen Indians were seen

-running over the river towards us. They soon came up to the wagons

-which were somewhat scattered and although they shook hands, they

-showed savage hostility. Four of the oxen were not yet yoked up; these

-they drove off from the wagons which now began to draw together.

-They soon satisfied us that they were bent on robbing us and without

-ceremony took Jack Redding's horse from behind the wagon. Lamb went to

-take it from them and seized the lariat which another immediately cut

-with his knife. Lamb then got on the horse, but no sooner on than two

-Indians pulled him off and marched off with the horse. They stole Jack

-Redding's knife out of its sheath and one from John Pack. They also

-tried to get Jack off the horse he was riding, but he kept his seat.

-They tried Skeen's horse but he kicked one of them over. The Indians

-then tried to get the men out of their wagons so that they might get

-in and plunder, but every man kept in his wagon to guard it and we

-concluded to turn about and go back to the company. We accordingly

-started and the Indians turned back towards the timber with the horse,

-four oxen, two knives and a sack of salt. After traveling back about

-six miles, we met the company, told the story and bore their slang and

-insults without saying much, but not without thinking a great deal.

-The whole company were then formed in two lines. All the arms were

-loaded and each man that could raise a gun was ordered to walk beside

-the wagons, the horsemen to go ahead. We then proceeded on and when

-we came opposite to where we met with the Indians, the horsemen went

-down and found the oxen where we left them. They brought them and we

-traveled till dark, then camped near the river, having traveled five

-and a quarter miles from last night, exclusive of the distance we went

-back. A strong guard was placed around the cattle and camp and kept up

-through the night. Many hard speeches have passed among the brethren,

-such as "damned hypocrites," "damned liars," "mutineers," etc., and

-most of those who started ahead are ordered to travel in the rear all

-the time. This savage, tyrannical conduct was one thing which induced

-some to leave and undertake to go through alone and more peaceably

-and it will still leave feelings of revenge and hatred which will

-require some time to cover up. Young Babcock shook his fist in Zebedee

-Coltrin's face and damned him and said he could whip him. For my part,

-I shall be glad when I get in more peaceable society, and I think I

-shall not easily be caught in such a scrape again.

-

-Saturday, October 9

-

-We have had no disturbance from Indians. We started at six o'clock and

-went on five miles to get better feed. We then halted for breakfast.

-The remainder of the day's travel was mostly over dog towns. A United

-States soldier came up to the wagons and went with us a few miles. He

-says there are ninety of them on the island surveying and looking out a

-place to build a fort. We traveled seventeen and a quarter miles today,

-then camped near a low bench of land where there is plenty of grass and

-water and willows for fuel. A number of the soldiers came over to camp.

-They say the Pawnees are perfectly enraged and savage and that the

-worst band of between four and five hundred are on the north side the

-Platte about forty miles below.

-

-Sunday, October 10

-

-Morning fine but cold wind. The captains called the camp together and

-asked whether we shall wait here three days or a week for the twelve,

-or shall we continue on to Winter Quarters. Thirty men voted to go on,

-seventeen voted to wait and the remainder did not vote. The majority

-having voted to go on, we started and traveled very slowly till about

-five o'clock, then turned off to the river to camp, having traveled

-sixteen miles. There are many new tracks of Indians on the sand bar,

-but we have seen none today.

-

-Monday, October 11

-

-Morning, cloudy and cold. We have had a little very cold rain and

-there is great appearance for more. We started on but it continued to

-rain heavily till near noon. The afternoon was fair but very cold. We

-traveled twenty-one and a quarter miles and camped amongst high grass

-close to timber. There is every chance for Indians tonight if any are

-near. The camp in general are much dissatisfied with the camping place.

-

-Tuesday, October 12

-

-This morning the weather was severely cold with strong wind. Some of

-the cattle were missing and the owners not going to hunt them till the

-rest were ready to start on, we were detained till eleven o'clock and

-then proceeded. We found plenty of water in Wood River but did not lose

-much time crossing. We took one of the late wagon trails and arrived

-on Prairie Creek a little before sundown, having traveled fifteen and

-three quarters miles. We have seen no Indians yet and all goes well but

-the cold weather.

-

-Wednesday, October 13

-

-Morning very cold indeed with strong northwest wind. We found the creek

-difficult to cross, it being soft and miry, but all soon got over

-safely and we proceeded on. The road is sandy about five or six miles

-on the bluffs and very crooked all the way. We arrived and camped on

-the Loup Fork at dark, having traveled twenty-one and three quarters

-miles. The day has been excessively cold.

-

-Thursday, October 14

-

-Much time was lost this morning in hunting for a place to cross the

-river. It was finally concluded to cross a mile higher up and we

-proceeded to the place. While going up we saw a company of horsemen and

-two wagons on the other side the river, which we soon recognized to be

-our brethren from Winter Quarters. All the wagons got over safely and

-camped on the hill, having traveled two miles. The company is a part of

-the old police going to meet the next company. We were gladdened with

-the news they bring from Winter Quarters.

-

-Friday, October 15

-

-The brethren of the police started early this morning to go on and meet

-the next company. They got well over the river but not without getting

-into the water to lift at the wagon wheels. It was late when we started

-on account of some oxen being missing and there are some who will not

-look for their cattle till all the rest are ready to start. We traveled

-till a little after three and camped on the banks of the Loup Fork,

-distance twelve and three quarters miles, day warmer.

-

-Saturday, October 16

-

-The night has been very stormy, there being a strong wind, rain, and

-very cold. We made an early start and by noon arrived at the mission

-station. We found the Pawnees busy gathering corn, probably nearly a

-thousand of men, women and children. They soon began to come to the

-wagons and their chiefs made inquiries by signs about the Chirrarots

-or Sioux. Some of the brethren gave them to understand that the Sioux

-were within five days of them. The chief immediately gave the word to

-the rest and in half an hour the squaws had loaded their corn on ponies

-and mules and then began to march towards the river. They show great

-fear of the Sioux. They were very anxious to have us camp with them

-tonight but we kept moving on. One of the wagons was upset crossing

-a ravine. Several of the brethren traded for corn. At three o'clock,

-we arrived and turned out the teams on Beaver River, having traveled

-seventeen and a quarter miles. Soon after we arrived, some of the

-Indians came up, having followed with the idea of trading. They have

-conducted themselves peaceably so far, but they are not to be trusted.

-In consequence of their following us, it was the feeling of most of the

-brethren to go on a few miles after dark. At 5:45 we started on and

-traveled till 8:30 being six and a half miles, then camped beside the

-lakes. Evening very fine and pleasant. We have traveled twenty-three

-and three quarters miles today.

-

-Sunday, October 17

-

-We started early and traveled to Looking Glass, then halted for

-breakfast. Morning windy and cold. After breakfast, we started on again

-and traveled till four o'clock, distance sixteen and a quarter miles,

-then camped at a point of timber near a creek or lake and not far from

-the Loup Fork.

-

-Monday, October 18

-

-Started at eight o'clock and traveled to Shell Creek distance eighteen

-and three quarters miles, day pleasant but cool.

-

-Tuesday, October 19

-

-The night was excessively cold and this morning there is considerable

-ice. We got an early start and traveled to where the road leaves the

-river and crosses to the Horn. At this place there is a liberty pole

-set up by some of the brethren. We have traveled today twenty-three and

-a quarter miles and we now find that the grass is all burned off ahead

-of us as far as we can see, probably to the Elk Horn. We are cheered by

-a view of the timber on that stream.

-

-Wednesday, October 20

-

-We started early and found the prairie all burned off to the Elk Horn

-except in small patches. We arrived at the Horn about noon and soon

-after commenced crossing where Hosea Stout and company crossed. The

-water was nearly three feet deep and the bottom somewhat soft, but we

-were soon all over without accident except John Pack, who broke his

-wagon tongue. We then had to make a road through high, strong grass for

-upwards of half a mile and found a very bad creek or slough to cross.

-When we again struck the main road, we found it good and started for

-the Papea where we arrived soon after dark, all except one wagon which

-was left a mile back. The evening cool and windy.

-

-Thursday, October 21

-

-This morning, Brother Empey, Lamb and myself started early accompanied

-by six horsemen and arrived in Winter Quarters a little before noon.

-I found my family all well except Moroni who is very sick and his

-mother is somewhat sick. Their circumstances are not good, but in

-other respects they have been prosperous for which I thank my God.

-There has been much sickness here and many deaths during the fall

-and many are now suffering for lack of some of the comforts of life.

-We have been prosperous on our journey home and have arrived in nine

-weeks and three days, including a week's delay waiting for the twelve

-and killing buffalo. Our health has been remarkably good, but we have

-lacked provisions, many of us having nothing but dry buffalo meat. I

-have succeeded in measuring the whole distance from the City of the

-Great Salt Lake to this place, except a few miles between Horse Creek

-and the A La Bonte River which was taken from the measurement going

-up. I find the whole distance to be 1,032 miles and am now prepared

-to make a complete traveler's guide from here to the Great Salt Lake,

-having been careful in taking the distance from creek to creek, over

-bluffs, mountains, etc. It has required much time and care and I have

-continually labored under disadvantages in consequence of the companies

-feeling no interest in it. The health of my family has encouraged me

-for all that is past and my secret gratitude shall ascend to Heaven for

-the unbounded kindness and mercies which the Almighty has continually

-poured upon them in my absence.

-

-

-

-

-

-End of Project Gutenberg's William Clayton's Journal, by William Clayton

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