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diff --git a/45865-0.txt b/45865-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7be2562 --- /dev/null +++ b/45865-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6601 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Tourist’s Guide through the Country of +Caernarvon, by P. B. Williams + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: The Tourist’s Guide through the Country of Caernarvon + containing a short sketch of its History, Antiquities, &c. + + +Author: P. B. Williams + + + +Release Date: June 2, 2014 [eBook #45865] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TOURIST’S GUIDE THROUGH THE +COUNTRY OF CAERNARVON*** + + +Transcribed from the 1821 J. Hulme edition by David Price, email +ccx074@pglaf.org + + + + + + THE + TOURIST’S GUIDE + THROUGH THE + Country of Caernarvon, + CONTAINING A SHORT SKETCH + OF ITS + HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, &c. + + + * * * * * + + By the Rev. P. B. Williams, A.B. + + _RECTOR OF LLANRUG AND LLANBERIS_. + + * * * * * + + _CAERNARVON_: + + PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY J. HULME, + + _Bookbinder & Stationer_, _Turf-Square_. + + AND MAY BE HAD OF POOLE & HARDING, CHESTER; R. TAYLOR, + LIVERPOOL; AND ALL OTHER BOOKSELLERS + + —_o_— + + 1821. + + * * * * * + + TO + + THOMAS JAMES WARREN BULKELEY, + + Lord Viscount Bulkeley + + OF CASHEL, IN THE KINGDOM OF IRELAND; + + _AND BARON BULKELEY_, + + OF BEAUMARIS, IN THE KINGDOM OF ENGLAND; + + PEER OF THE REALM; + + LORD LIEUTENANT, & CUSTOS HOTULORUM, OF THE COUNTY OF CAERNARVON + + CHANCELLOR AND CHAMBERLAIN OF NORTH WALES; + + CONSTABLE OF BEAUMARIS CASTLE, &c. &c. + +A Nobleman, whose sole study is to do Good, and to promote the Happiness +and Welfare of his Fellow Creatures; and who is highly Esteemed, and +greatly and justly Beloved in this part of the Principality; and has +repeatedly and deservedly received the Thanks of the Bench of +Magistrates, as well as those of the Established Militia, under their +gallant Commander, Col. EDWARDS, and the other Officers, for the +Admirable Method with which he has Organized the County, and his ready +Attention and Assistance at all Times when requisite,—This little +Publication, is most Respectfully inscribed, by + + His Lordship’s + + Most obedient, + + And most devoted + + Humble Servant, + + _P. B. WILLIAMS_. + +Llanrug, April 9, 1821. + + + + +ADVERTISEMENT. + + +THE following small compilation (for it claims no higher title) was made +at the request of several friends, as the want of such a little Manuel +principally for the use of Strangers, was generally known and +acknowledged. The Writer would not have permitted his name to appear, +had he not been persuaded by the Publisher, that the countenance of even +such an obscure individual would in some degree tend to promote the sale +of the work. Some of the Subscribers, there is reason to apprehend, +expect a full and complete History of the County, but surely they do not +suppose that such a work could be compressed within the compass of an +octavo volume, or sold for such a small sum. + +At some future period, the Writer would not be unwilling to undertake +such a Publication, (should he meet with proper encouragement, and his +life be spared) as he has for many years been collecting materials for +such a work. + + + + +Subscribers’ Names. + + +Most Noble the Marquis of Anglesey, 6 copies + +Rev. Thomas Alban, Llandrillo’n rhos 3 copies, bound + +Mr. Ambrose, Penrhyn Arms Inn + + * * * * * + +Viscount Warren Bulkeley, 6 copies bound + +Lord Bishop of Bangor, 4 copies + +— Beresford, Esq. Carnarvon + +J. Bradley, Esq. Plastirion + +Harwood Banner, Esq. Liverpool + +C. Brown, Esq. Manchester + +Mr. Bettiss, Hotel, Carnarvon, 6 copies 1 bound + +.. Black, Organist, Carnarvon + +.. Broster, Bangor + +.. T. Bowers, Chester + + * * * * * + +Rev. J. H. Cotton, Bangor, 2 copies + +Edward Carreg, Esq. Carnarvon, bd + +R. T. Carreg, Esq. Cefn mine, bound + + * * * * * + +Very Rev. The Dean of Bangor + +— Dawson, Esq. Bangor + +Mr. Davies, Crown & Anchor Inn, Bangor, 2 copies + +.. Day, Schoolmaster, Carnarvon + +.. J. Davies, Slate Merchant, do. + +.. Davies, Mercer, Carnarvon + +.. William Dalrymple, Liverpool + +.. Davies, Bee Inn, Abergeleu + + * * * * * + +Colonel Edwards, Nanhoron, 6 copies + +Miss Edwards, Nanhoron + +J. Evans, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon + +J. G. Evans, Esq. Carnarvon + +Hugh Evans, Esq. Henblas + +John Ellis, Esq. Solicitor, Pwllheli + +Rev. T. Ellis, near Llanrwst + +Mr. Evan Evans, Solicitor, Carnarvon + +.. E. Evans, Shopkeeper, do. + +.. R. Evans, Grocer, do. + +.. Owen Ellis, do. + +.. T. Evans, Brazier, Bangor + +.. Ellis, Surveyor of Customs, Beaumaris + +.. Evans, Tanner, Dolydd + +.. Eyres, Druggist, Liverpool + +.. J. Evans, Ty’n y coed, Abereirch bound + + * * * * * + +Right Honorable Maurice Fitzgerald, M.P. Knight of Kerry, bound + +Mr. Fleming, Green, Carnarvon + +.. Edmund Francis, do. + +.. H. Field, Castle Inn, Bangor + +.. Fletcher, Bangor + + * * * * * + +R. Garnons, Esq. Carnarvon, 1 dozen + +John Griffith, Esq. Llanfair, 4 copies + +W. G. Griffith, Esq. Bodegroes, 2 copies 1 bound + +Joseph Goddard, Esq. Carnarvon + +Holland Griffith, Esq. Garreglwyd + +R. Griffith, Esq. Solicitor, Pwllheli, bd + +J. Griffith, Esq. Solicitor, Llanrwst + +Rev. D. Griffith, Llanfair, Anglesey, bd + +Rev. W. Griffith, Rector of Llandwrog, and Chaplain of H. M. Dock Yard, +Pembroke + +Miss Griffith, 78 Aungier Street, Dublin + +Miss M. A. Gething, Holyhead + +Mr. Philip Gale, Stationer, Liverpool + +.. H. Griffith, Druggist, Carnarvon, bd + +.. O. Griffith, Tryfan + +.. J. Griffith, Clynog, Anglesey + +.. G. Griffith, Four-mile bridge + + * * * * * + +Captain Haslam, Carnarvon, 6 copies + +— Hewitt, Esq. Bangor + +Thomas Hughes, Esq. Solicitor, L—pool + +Rev. J. Hamer, Bangor + +.... Morris Hughes, Llandegai + +.... J. Holland, Dolbenmaen + +.... L. Hughes, Llanllechid + +.... Richard Hughes, Brynllwyd + +.... E. Herbert, Llanfair fechen + +.... G. Herbert, Amlwch + +.... H. Hughes, Llanfaethle, bound + +Dr. Hughes, Pwllheli + +Lieutenant Hughes, Carnarvon + +Miss Howard, Conway, 3 copies + +Mr. Hughes, Waterloo Tavern, Bangor 3 copies + +.. R. Hughes, Shopkeeper, do bd + +.. R. Hughes, Boot-maker, do bd + +.. Hughes; Merchant, Carnarvon, bd + +.. Hughes, Goat Inn, do + +.. J. Hughes, Currier, Llanrwst + +.. Hyman, Jeweller, Bangor, bd + +Mrs. Hartwell, Post Office, Carnarvon, bound + +Mr. Humphreys, Customs, ditto + +.. Hobson, Factor, Birmingham + +.. Hughes, Draper, Pwllheli, bd + +.. Hughes, Timber Merchant, Pwllheli + + * * * * * + +Thomas Jones, Esq. Bryntirion 2 cop. 1 bound + +John Jonas, Esq. Solicitor, Beaumaris + +Robert Jones, Esq. Pen y bryn, bound + +Rev. H. W. Jones, Treiorwerth, three copies + +.... Henry Jones, Ty coch + +.... J. Jones, Mynydd Ednyfed + +.... Mr. Jones, Rector of Criciaeth + +.... J. Jones, Llanllyfni, bound + +.... Robert Jones, Boduan + +.... J. Jones, Llanbedr goch + +Rev. D. Jones, Llandoged + +Mr. J. Jackson, Capel Curig Inn, six copies, 1 bound + +.. Edward Jones, Ty’n y maes, 6 cop + +Dr. Jones, Pwllheli, bound + +Captain Jones, Pant howel + +Mrs. Jones, Castellmai + +Miss Jones, ditto + +.... Jervoise, Litchfield + +.... Jump, Liverpool + +Mr. William Jones, Attorney, Carnarvon + +Mr. Robert Jones, Shopkeeper, Ditto + +.. Owen Jones, Merchant, Ditto + +.. Jones, Currier, Ditto + +.. Thomas Jones, Customs, Beaumaris + +.. John Jonas, Goaler, Carnarvon + +.. Jones, Pen y bryn, Eglwys bach + +.. Richard Jones, Union, Carnarvon, bound + +.. Jones, Eagles Inn, Llanrwst, bd + +.. J. Jones, Surgeon, do + +.. Robert Jones, Timber Merchant, St. Asaph + +.. Jones, Machine Tavern, Rhudlan + +.. H. Jones, Grocer, Abergeleu + +.. William Jones, Mine Agent, Llandudno + + * * * * * + +Rev. J. Kyffin, Bangor, bound + +.... J. Kyffin, Llanystyndwy, bound + +Mr. William Kyffin, Eglwys fach, bd + +.. M‘Kergow, Boduan + + * * * * * + +John Lloyd, Esq. Pen y glannau, Maentwrog, 6 copies + +Colonel Lloyd, Marle, bound + +T. Lloyd, Esq. Glangwna + +Mrs. Lloyd, do + +Miss F. Lloyd, do + +J. T. Lloyd, Esq. Shrewsbury + +Mrs. J. T. Lloyd, do + +John Lane, Esq. Staffordshire + +R. Llwyd, Esq. (Author of ‘Beaumaris Bay,’) Bank Place, Chester + +J. E. Lloyd, Esq. Trallwyn + +— Ludgate, Esq. Liverpool + +Rev. William Lloyd, Festiniog + +Miss Lewis, Mount Hazle + +Mr. Lloyd, Collector of Excise, Carnarvon + +.. L. Louis, Schoolmaster, Abergeleu + +.. John Lloyd, Architect, Carnarvon + +Miss A. Lewis, Bangor + +Mr. Lewis, Bull’s-head Inn, Aber, bd + +.. Lloyd, Druggist, Liverpool, bound + +.. Lloyd, Brynkir, bound + +.. Richard Leister, Llanrhos + + * * * * * + +Mr. M‘Lean, Gwynfryn + +.. Lenthal, Maenan + +Colonel Mc Gregor + +Rev. H. Majendie, Bangor, 2 copies + +Captain Majendie + +W. Mason, Esq. M. D. Carnarvon + +Rev. T. G. Moulsdale, Llanfair Talhaiarn + +Mr. Morgan, Bank, Carnarvon + +.. Millington, do + +.. Mumford, Supervisor, Conway + +.. H. Morris, Ty gwyn, Llanrug + + * * * * * + +O. J. E. Nanney, Esq. Gwynfryn, 2 copies, 1 bound + +Rev. Mr. Nanney, Belmont + +Mr. Nembard, Plasmadoc + +.. Nichols, Tan yr allt Nursery + + * * * * * + +E. Owen, Esq. Carnarvon + +Captain Robert Owen, Carnarvon + +Rev. G. Owen, Carnarvon, 6 copies + +.... E. Owen, Llaniestyn + +.... E. A. Owen, Holyhead + +.... J. Owen, Conway + +Mr. Owen, Attorney, Carnarvon + +.. Owen, Druggist, do + +.. W. Owen, Shopkeeper, do + +.. Humphrey Owen, Rhyddgaer, Anglesey + +.. Ormerod, Gwyndu + +Miss M. Owen, Inn, Festiniog + + * * * * * + +G. H. Dawkins Pennant, Esq. M.P. + +Mrs. Pennant + +T. P. I. Parry, Esq. Madryn, 3 copies + +Colonel Parry, do bound + +Captain Parry, R. N. Carnarvon + +W. St. George Pelisier, Esq. Priory + +Paul Panton, Esq. Plasgwyn + +O. A. Poole, Esq. Gorphwysfa + +Colonel Peacock, Anglesey + +Iohn Price, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon 2 copies + +Messrs. Poole and Harding, Chester 6 copies + +Dr. Pring, Bangor + +Rev. H. Price, Friars, Bangor + +.... T. Parry, Treborth + +.... H. Pugh, Llansaintffraid + +.... O. Parry, Llanfair yn nghornwy + +Mr. I. Prichard, Beddgelert, 2 copies + +.. Edward Price, Carnarvon + +.. Parry, Treborth, bound + +.. Paul, Bangor + +.. Powell, Customs, Carnarvon + +.. Preece, Schoolmaster, do + +.. Payne, Liquor Merchant, do + +.. Robert Pritchard, Liverpool + +Mr. Parry, Harp, Carnarvon, bound + +.. R. Price, Traeth coch + +.. O. H. Parry, Cromlech + +.. Preston, Four-mile bridge + + * * * * * + +Hugh Rowlands, Esq. Ty mawr, Clynog + +Iohn Rowlands, Esq. Plastirion + +E. Griffith Roberts, Esq. Aber + +W. Roberts, Esq. Oakland, Llanrwst + +Robert Roberts, Esq. Bank, Carnarvon + +Iohn Roberts, Esq. Dep. Reg. Bangor + +Rev. Mr. Roberts, Hendre, 2 copies + +.... I. Roberts, Llanengan. 2 copies + +.... Owen Reynolds, Aber, bound + +.... T. Read, Beaumaris + +.... Ellis Roberts, Bangor, bound + +.... H. Rowlands, Beaumaris + +.... W. Roberts, Gallt y beren + +Mr. Redding, Bull’s Head Inn, Beaumaris, 6 copies + +.. Iohn Roberts, Surgeon, Carnarvon + +.. W. Roberts, Surgeon, Green, do + +.. H. Roberts, Carnarvon, bound + +.. Roberts, Surgeon, Bangor + +.. Rathbone, Druggist, do + +.. Rouse, Harp Inn, Conway + +.. Roberts, Surgeon, Llanrwst + +.. Roberts, Watch-maker, Bangor + +.. Richards, Tailor, Carnarvon + +.. Richardson, Factor, Birmingham + +.. Rhodes, Attorney, Liverpool + +.. Rasbrook, Post Office, Bangor + +.. Richardson, Carnarvon + +.. G. Roberts, Clynog + +.. Rice, Crown and Anchor, Pwllheli bound + +.. Roberts, Attorney, Pwllheli + +.. Roberts, Liquor merchant, do + +.. Radford, Guard of the Prince Regent Coach + +.. Robert Roberts, Holyhead + +.. Read, Attorney, Llanrwst + +Mrs. Roberts, Glass Shop, Carnarvon + +.... Roberts, Ty hen, Llwyngwnadl + + * * * * * + +T. A. Smith, Esq. Vaynol, 4 copies + +Captain Sewell, Carnarvon + + * * * * * + +Rice Thomas, Esq. Coed helen + +William Turner, Esq. Parkia, near Carnarvon + +Rev. J. W. Trevor, do + +.... I. Titley, Llanrwst + +.... W. Thomas, Trefor, Beamaris + +Mr. Titterton, Carnarvon, bound + +.. Thomas, Surgeon, bound + +.. Thomas, Druggist, Llanrwst + +Mr. Toleman, Watch-maker, Carnarvon + +.. Richard Taylor, Bookseller, Liverpool, 2 copies + +.. David Thomas, Bard of Snowdon + +Miss Thomas, Port Penrhyn, Bangor bound + + * * * * * + +I Utterson, Esq. Bangor, bound + + * * * * * + +C. W. W. Wynne, Esq. M.P. Llangedwin + +H. R. Williams, Esq. Penrhos + +R. Lloyd Williams, Esq. Denbigh 2 copies + +W. Williams, Esq. Solicitor, Pwllheli bound + +Iames Wyatt, Esq. Lime Grove, two copies + +Archibald Worthington, Esq. Bangor + +I. Williams, Esq. Pant, Anglesey + +Thomas Williams, Esq. Beaumaris + +William Williams, Esq. Hendrewaelod + +Iohn Williams, Esq. Tregarnedd + +Richard Williams, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon + +W. Williams, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon + +Rev. W. Williams, Bangor Street, do + +Robert Williams, Esq. Solicitor, do bd + +Rev. R. Williams, Friars, Bangor bd + +.... D. Williams, Llandwrog + +.... Iames Williams, Treffos, Anglesey + +.... Hugh Williams, Clynog, 2 copies + +.... Dr. Williams, Llanbedrog + +.... W. Williams, Trawsfynydd + +.... E. Williams, Llanrhaiadr + +.... G. Williams, Weeg + +.... Mr. Williams, Treffos + +.... Gethin Williams, Rhiwlas, bd + +.... I. Williams, Llanbedr + +Captain Walker, Bangor + +Mr. Williams, Castle Inn, do. 3 copies + +.. E. Williams, Strand, London, two dozen + +.. Williams, Druggist, Carnarvon bd + +.. Williams, Land Surveyor, Bangor + +.. Williams, Solicitor, do + +.. I. Willians, Shopkeeper, Carnarvon + +.. Robert Williams, do do + +.. Williams, Pool Street do + +.. Williams, Plumber do + +.. Wakeman do bd + +.. Owen Wynne, do bd + +.. Williams, Druggist, Pwllheli + +.. I. Watkin, Tanner, Abereirch + +.. H. D. Williams, Surgeon, Llansaintffraid + + + + +HISTORY +OF +_CARNARVONSHIRE_. + + +CARNARVONSHIRE, one of the six Counties of North Wales, is bounded on the +West by the Irish sea, on the North by the strait called Menai, which +divides it from Anglesey; Merionethshire extends along the Southern +coast, and Denbighshire limits the Eastern. + +As Travellers generally enter this County either along the Conway or +Capel Curig Road, it may be more convenient, for their sakes, to commence +its History with a short account of the Town and neighbourhood of + + + +CONWAY. + + +But before we proceed to a description of the Town, it may be necessary +to inform the stranger that there is a District of this County, on the +Denbighshire, or East side of the River Conway; and whether he be a +Botanist, a Mineralogist, a Naturalist, or Antiquary, he may, if he have +leisure, spend a few days on this side of the water with pleasure and +advantage. This detached part of the County of Carnarvon is called +_Creuddin yn Rhos_, and is celebrated for producing very excellent wheat; +it contains three Parishes, Llangwstenin, Llan Rhôs, or more properly +Llanfair yn Rhôs, and Llandudno.—In and about the ruins of old Diganwy, +or Dingonwy, now called _y Faerdre_, and in Gloddaith woods, the Botanist +will find a great number of rare Plants, while the Mineralogist will be +tempted to examine the Copper Mines at Llandudno, and the Historian and +Antiquary be induced to visit the curious collection of old Books and +Manuscripts, in the libraries of Gloddaith and Bodysgallen, (Bod +Caswallawn) two old family seats, belonging to Sir Thomas Mostyn Bart. +the former built in the time of Queen Elizabeth, since which period it +has undergone very little or no alteration, and almost all the old +furniture is preserved in the same state. Marle has also been a fine old +house, but was nearly burnt down about seventy years ago; it was at one +time the property of the Hollands, then of Sir Gryffydd Williams, of +Penrhyn, and on the death of his grandson Sir Robert, it devolved to Sir +Thomas Prendergast, an Irish Gentleman, in right of his Lady, Anne, +sister to Sir Robert, but at present this house, as well as the Ferry of +Conway, art in the possession of Owen Williams, Esq. M.P. for Great +Marlow. + +On the very summit of the high Promontory of Ormshead, or Gogarth, is +situated the small Church of Llandudno, dedicated to St. Tudno, whose +rocking stone (Maen sigl or Cryd-Tudno) is not very far distant. On the +Western side of this Mountain is a tremendous precipice, over-hanging the +sea, and these rocks are frequented in the summer season by great numbers +of birds of passage; the Gulls occupy the lowest range, above them are +the Razor-bills and Guillemots, over these croak the Corvorants, and the +Herons possess the uppermost projections and ledges of this stupendous +rock; the Peregrine Falcon also builds his nest in these impending crags. +In the days of Falconry these birds were considered so excellent, that +the great minister BURLEIGH, sent a letter of thanks to an ancestor of +Sir Thomas MOSTYN’S, for a present of a cast of Hawks from this place. +The British name of this hill, _Gogarth_, seems to be derived from ogo, +or gogo, a Cave, and Garth, a Promontory, for there are several caves +under this rock, and particularly one very large, inaccessible except by +water; not far from it are the ruins of an old Palace, belonging to the +Bishops of Bangor; there is also a farm house near the spot, known by the +above name, Gogarth. Mr. Pennant says, (but upon what authority is not +known) that this tract of Land was an appendage of the Abbey of Conway. + +The Castle of Deganwy, or Dingonwy, called by the English, Ganoe, and +afterwards, by the fault of transcribers, corrupted into Gannock, was +celebrated in the wars, between the two nations; the small remains of it +are on two hills, not far from the shore of the river, nearly opposite +the Town of Conway, but nearer to the sea; there is a house a little +below it, which still bears the name, and was lately inhabited by Lord +Kirkwall; the walls of the old Castle surrounded these two rocks, and on +the summit of one of them is the vestige of a round Tower;—In all +probability this, as well as most Welsh Castles, was originally +constructed of _timber_, as it is asserted in our Histories, that it was +destroyed by lightning, in the year 810, {12}—the founder of it is not +known. It was afterwards rebuilt, and was for some time in the +possession of the Earls of Chester, when it was again destroyed by +Llewelyn the Great;—Randle de Blondeville then repaired it, and King John +encamped under its walls in the year 1211, and was reduced to great +distress by the skill and prudence of Llewelyn, who contrived to cut off +his supplies. Henry III. suffered still greater calamities near this +place, in the year 1245, at which time John de Grey, of Wilton, was +Constable; one of his courtiers most pathetically describes their +miseries. At length Diganwy was in 1260 totally dismantled by our last +Prince, Llewelyn ap Gryffydd. + +Not far from hence, on the top of a hill, is an ancient Tower; its form +is circular, its height about 20 feet, the diameter 12; its walls compose +only two thirds of a circle, the rest is open. In all probability it was +a Watch Tower, and connected with Diganwy as a place of retreat. The +name of this District, Creuddin, seems to be derived from Creu, or Crau, +blood, or gore, and Din, or Dinas, a fortified place; and was so +denominated, in all probability, from the many bloody battles fought here +between the English and Welsh. The fine view of Conway Castle and the +Bennarth woods, from this side of the river, is greatly and deservedly +admired. The original name of Conway was Caer Gyffin, and it probably +was inhabited, and was a place of some strength, prior to the +establishment of a Cistercian Abbey here, in 1185, by Llewelyn ap +Jorwerth, Prince of North Wales, and it then no doubt increased in +opulence and respectability, as the privileges of the members of this +community, like many others of a similar description, were very +considerable; in the first place they were to be exempt in all parts from +Tolls and Pontage, and they had a right to a free passage over the +ferries of the Menai, Conway, Barmouth, and Dyfi, (or Dôfwy) and it was +endowed with Lands to a great extent, both in this County and in +Anglesey; Caput Wedva vawr, (Snowdon) Crib Goch, near Llanberis, and +Morfa Dinlle, are mentioned. The Castle was built by Edward the first, +about the year 1284, who being apprehensive, probably, that he might find +these monks and their attendants very unpleasant and troublesome +neighbours, he removed them to Maenan, about 8 miles higher up on the +Denbighshire side of the river, and not far from Llanrwst, where there is +an old family seat belonging to Lord Newborough, which still retains the +name of the Abbey. The town of Conway has four entrances: The upper +Gate, the lower, or that next to the River, a Portal between that and the +Castle, and another to the Creek called Porth y felin, or the Gate to the +mill. Mr. PENNANT’S observation with respect to this place is this, “a +more ragged Town is scarcely to be seen _within_, or a more beautiful one +_without_;” the form is nearly triangular, surrounded with lofty Walls, +and guarded by 24 round Towers; the lower face of the triangle borders on +the River. The Castle is built on a lofty rock, at the S. E. corner, and +is generally considered (as the same Historian remarks,) a structure of +“matchless magnificence,” and a more beautiful Fortress, perhaps, never +arose. The Architect, Henry Ellerton, or de Elreton, (the person under +whose direction Carnarvon Castle was also built) seems to have exerted +all his skill here. It had two entrances, one up a steep rock from the +River, with winding stairs, and ending in a small advanced work, before +one of the Gates of the Castle, and protected by small round Towers; at +the other extremity is a similar work; from which there was a drawbridge +into the Town.—Over a great Foss, in one of the great Towers, is a +beautiful oriel window. The form of this Fortress is oblong, one side is +bounded by the River, another by a Creek, full of water at every tide; +within are two Courts, and on the outside project eight vast Towers, each +with a slender one of amazing elegance issuing from its top, within which +was a winding staircase. + +The great Hall was very magnificent, and was of a curved form, +conformable to the bend of the outward Walls, including one end with a +large window, which seems to have been the private Chapel; it was one +hundred and thirty feet in length, and thirty broad, and of great height; +the roof was supported by eight noble Arches, six of which still remain +there was a great fireplace at one end, and another on the side, it had +six windows to the country and three to the Court, and beneath it were +vast Vaults and Cellars. The foundation of one of the Towers next the +Creek has been undermined, and it is now denominated the _Hanging Tower_. + +Edward the First made this Town a Free Borough, and ordered that the +Mayor (who was the Constable of the Castle for the time being) should +preserve its privileges. William Sikun was appointed first to that +honor. At present it is governed by one Alderman, a Recorder, Coroner, +Water-bailiff, and two Serjeants at Mace, chosen annually. Its +privileges extended from Carnarvon to the River Clwyd, and no one could +be convicted of any crime within its limits, except by a Jury collected +in that District, and such was the case with all the other English +Garrisons in North Wales. + +Conway is a Contributory Borough, with Carnarvon, Pwllheli, Nevin, and +Crickaeth, in returning a Member to Parliament. The Great Sessions for +the County were formerly held here, alternately with Carnarvon, but the +latter place being more central, enjoys that privilege at present +exclusively. The resident population in this Parish in 1801 was 889. +The Market is on Friday. Conway is 232 miles N.W. from London. The +passage over the river is attended with many inconveniences, and not many +years ago a boat was upset, and several lives lost. The ferrymen are +said to be very uncivil, and are accused of practising great impositions +on strangers. {17} The regular charge ought to be one penny for a foot +passenger, two-pence for a man and horse, and half a crown a wheel for a +carriage, but they generally demand more than double these sums, and then +importune for liquor. + +It is to be hoped that when the improvements now executing on the +Shrewsbury road are completed, Government will pay the same attention to +the Chester line, and that a Bridge will be erected here, over the +Conway; as this is the principal communication between Dublin and the +North of England. + +Plas mawr, (the great mansion) an old house in the centre of the town, +built by Robert Wynne, Esq. a branch of the Gwydir family, in the year +1585, will be likely to attract the traveller’s attention. Over the +gateway are the words Anechou, Apechou, sustine, abstine; and on the +House these capital letters, IHS. X.P.S. being the Ancient method of +inscribing our Saviour’s name. The Church, the ruins of an old Abbey, +and another old House, called the College, also claim a visit from the +stranger. + +Gyffin, a Parish Church, about half a mile off, on the road to Llanrwst, +is a Stipendiary Cure, and is generally annexed to Conway. The late +Doctor Jones, Dean of Bangor, left £100. the interest of which he +directed to be applied to the keeping of a School here. The Vicarage of +Conway, as well as Gyffin, are in the patronage of the Bishop of Bangor. +On the summit of the hill below the town, and nearly opposite to the +bifurcated rock, on which stood the Castle of Diganwy, are the ruins of +an ancient fortification, of a circular form, with only one entrance, and +this probably is the place mentioned by Leland, in his Itinerary, and +which he denominates Sinnodun, and where, he says, there are the remains +of a great work; it is described by him as being a mile out of the town, +but in what direction is not mentioned. Camden also mentions a British +Post, called Caer Lleion, surrounded by Ditches and strong Ramparts, on a +lofty hill, near Conway marsh. The Castle of Sinnodun is also +represented as being situated near this place, in a Map of the County, +annexed to a very old edition of that Author’s Britannia. As this small +work is intended merely as a guide to the Tourist, in his excursion +through the County, it cannot be expected to contain a very _detailed_ or +_particular_ account of every object, which may deserve attention; for +this reason the Compiler must pass over the siege of this Castle, during +the Rebellion, in Oliver Cromwell’s time, and merely observe, that the +custody of it was committed by the King to Archbishop Williams, of the +Penrhyn family, near Bangor, and after the gentlemen and freeholders of +the neighbourhood had placed a number of valuable articles under his +care, and for which he had given them receipts, and thus became +answerable for the property, he was, in 1645, cruelly dispossessed by +Prince Rupert, without assigning any reason for this strange conduct; it +was taken, however, from the Prince in June, 1646, by General Mytton. +The Archbishop was buried in the Church of Llandegai, near Bangor, where +his Monument is still to be seen. + +It would puzzle any one, unacquainted with the mistakes and blunders of +transcribers, to conjecture how TOISOBIUS should become PTOLEMY’S +CONOBIUS, or Conovius, (or Conovium) but when we reflect a little, it may +be supposed, that the initial C, might be easily mistaken for T, and the +v converted into b, so as to form TOINOBIUS, instead of COINOVIUS. The +derivation of the word Cynwy, seems to be, as Mr. Edward Llwyd +conjectures, from _Cyn_, chief or principal, and _Gwy_, or _wy_, water; +the prefix _cyn_, being augmentative, as cyn-gann, very white; cyn-dynn, +very stiff; or signifying first or chief, as cynfyd, the old antediluvian +world; cyn-ddydd, daybreak; and Dr. Davies supposes _cyn_ to be +synonymous with penn, as _cyntaf_, _penaf_, first or chief. Admitting +this, _Cungetorix_ would be _Cyntwrch_, and _Cunobelinus_, _Cynfelyn_, +_&c._ + +The River Conway has been celebrated for ages, for its muscle-pearl +fishery. Pliny informs us, that Julius Cæsar dedicated to Venus +Genetrix, in her temple at Rome, a Breastplate set with British Pearls; +and Suetonius alledges the acquisition of these, as one motive for his +invasion of the Island. Mr. Edward Llwyd asserts that the pearls found +in this river are as large, and as well coloured, as any in Great Britain +or Ireland, and says that he saw several very fine large ones in the +possession of Robert Wynne, Esq. of Bodysgallen. Mr. Pennant +distinguishes this shell-fish by the name of _Mya Margaritifera_. A vein +of Burr, (a species of Mill-stones) was discovered near Conway, about the +year 1800, but being inferior in quality to those brought from France, +there is no great demand for them. + +The ancient _Conovium_, for some time the station of the Tenth Roman +Legion, was no doubt at Caer Rhun, about five miles up the River, and +near the Parish Church of that name; as a Roman Hypocaust, a small +Shield, and a great number of Roman Coins were discovered there, by the +late Rev. Hugh Davies Griffith, late Vicar of the Parish, a gentleman of +great worth and integrity, highly esteemed and respected in his +neighbourhood, and a person who had a great taste for the study of +Antiquities. And what renders this conjecture more probable is this, +that there is a hill not far distant, which is still called Mynydd Caer +Lleon, or the Hill of the Legion. The Rev. W. Brickdale, at that time +Rector of Llanrwst, saw several Roman bricks, dug up near the Church of +Caer Rhun, which were inscribed LEG. X. This Legion was denominated +Antoniana Augusta. The XXth, stationed at Chester, (CAER LLEON GAWR, or +CAER LLEION AR DDYFRDWY) was distinguished by the name VICESSIMA VICTRIX, +and the Second Legion, stationed at CAER LEON, in Monmouthshire, or CAER +LLEON AR WYSC, was known by the title of AUGUSTA BRITANNICA. And there +was (no doubt) a Roman Road from hence to Segontium on the West, and to +Varium or Bodvarri and Caerwys, on the East, and another probably through +Dolyddelen, to Sarn Helen and Tommen y Mur, in Merionethshire; Pen y +street, Dolgelley; Castell y Beri, near Tal y Llynn, to Penal near +Machynlleth, where there was a Roman encampment, and where very +considerable remains were discovered. + +The admirer of picturesque and romantic Scenery would, no doubt, consider +his time well employed, and find his propensity amply gratified, were he +to deviate here, from the direct road to Bangor and Carnarvon, and trace +the Conway to its source, or at least to its junction with the Lledr and +Machno; he would then pass very near Caer Rhun, the ancient Conovium, and +in proceeding along the banks of this beautiful River, would be able to +visit a great number of Water-falls, and he would find the Scenery +constantly changing, and new beauties presenting themselves to his view, +at almost every turn of the road. My limits will merely allow me to +enumerate some of the objects which claim his attention, and ought to be +visited, which are the numerous Cascades on the right, between Llanbedr +(near Caer Rhun) and Trevriw; the old House of Gwydir, and its beautiful +woods; the town of Llanrwst, and particularly the old Monuments in the +Church, to the memory of the Wynne’s, the ancient Proprietors of Gwydir, +and the handsome Bridge over the Conway, supposed to have been erected by +the celebrated Inigo Jones, who is said to have been a native of that +neighbourhood. Near this town are also several Lead Mines. The +traveller will then proceed through the Gwydir woods, up to the Village +of Bettws y Coed, and the new Iron Waterloo Bridge, over the Conway, on +the Great Irish Road; he will next visit the falls of the Conway and +Machno, and then return to Bettws, and proceed up the river Lligwy; when +about half way between that Village and Capel Curig Inn, he will stop to +view Rhaidr y Wennol, a tremendous Cateract, and from the last mentioned +Inn, he may either continue his rout along the Irish road to Bangor, or +direct his course to Bethgelert Village, which is a stage of twelve +miles, or turn off on the right from that road, after he has proceeded +about four miles, for the Village of Llanberris, through its wonderful +pass, and from the new Inn, which we shall have occasion hereafter to +notice, he will be able to procure a guide to the summit of Snowdon. But +as most strangers will no doubt proceed from Conway to Bangor, it shall +be my endeavour to act as their guide, and mention some of the +particulars which are worth their attention along this line of road: For +the first two miles he will proceed up hill, until he comes to an opening +between two rocks, near a place called Sychnant, when all of a sudden a +most magnificent scene presents itself: from hence he commands a full +view of Beaumaris Bay, generally covered with a number of small vessels; +the Puffin, or Priestholm Island, the Village of Llangoed, the Town of +Beaumaris, Baron Hill, and the Friars; the former the beautiful seat of +Lord Viscount Bulkeley, and the latter that of his brother, Sir Robert +Williams, Baronet, M.P. all on the Anglesey shore;—On the Carnarvonshire +side, Bangor and Penrhyn Castle, and last, though not least, the huge +Pen-maen-mawr, protruding its rocky front into the sea, forming a natural +barrier, in such manner (to all appearance) as to cut off every +communication this way, and render any further progress impracticable; +the art of man has, however, at length conquered these difficulties, and +surmounted every obstacle, for about the year 1772 an excellent road was +formed along the edge of this once tremendous and dangerous precipice, +under the direction of the ingenious Mr. Sylvester, Parliament having +generously voted a grant for this purpose. Prior to this event several +fatal accidents had happened here, and one or two nearly miraculous +escapes are recorded in Mr. PENNANT’S Tour through North Wales. At that +time no carriages passed this way, and consequently all the travelling +was either on foot or on horseback. Dean Swift was generally a +Pedestrian, and in one of his rambles he left these lines, written on a +pane of glass at the old Inn, (now a Farm House) near this Mountain:— + + Before you venture here to pass, + Take a good refreshing glass;— + And when you are over, take another, + Your fainting spirits to recover. + +Before the Traveller descends from the top of Sychnant, just mentioned, +to the little Vale of Dwygyfylchi, he should deviate a little to the +left, in order to examine some Antiquities, near a place called Gwddw +Glâs, in that Parish; here are several circles of stones of various +diameters, and large Carneddau, viz. Barrows, or Tumuli, supposed to have +been memorials of those Heroes who fell in the field of battle, as +_Cistfaens_, or Stone Coffins, are frequently discovered in some of these +circular heaps, or collections of stones. The principal Circle now +consists of ten upright stones, at unequal distances, the largest is +eight feet three inches high; on the ground is another, eleven feet two; +the diameter of this Circle is eighty feet. Near this are four other +smaller Circles, in the centre of one is a flat stone, the remains of a +Cromlech, from which it may be conjectured that it was a Druidical or +Bardic Circle. About a quarter of a mile from these is a large Circle, +composed of small stones, and near it another of large stones; and not +far from these another Circle, composed of small ones.—Near the last is a +huge upright stone, called Maen y Campiau, or the Stone of Games; and +nearly contiguous is a Carnedd, and a small Circle of twelve stones; +adjoining to these are also a great number of what are now called in this +country, Cyttiau Gwyddelod, (Woodmen or Irishmen’s Huts) being the +foundations of small buildings, made of rounded stones; and the vestige +of a road is still visible in a direction from hence towards the Conway. +Some of these last might probably have been the summer habitations or +encampment of a small detachment of the Roman legion, stationed at Caer +Rhun or Conovium, for the purpose of protecting their Cattle. Having +mentioned Maen y Campian, it may not perhaps be considered a digression +to enumerate the twenty-four Welsh or British Games, of which there were +ten _Gwrolgampau_, or manly games, viz. 1. To lift up great weights; 2. +Running; 3. Leaping; 4. Swimming; 5. Wrestling; 6. Riding. These six +were stiled _Tadogion_, viz. pertaining to fathers, or grown up persons, +and required only bodily strength and activity; this last, _Marchogaeth_, +is supposed to have included Charioteering, or the skilful driving and +management of different kinds of carriages. The other four were, 1. +Archery; 2. Playing with the Sword and Buckler; 3. Playing with the +Cleddau deuddwrn, or two-handed Sword; 4. Chwarau ffonn ddwybig, or +playing with the two-end Staff or Spear. Next to these were the ten +_Mabolgampau_, or those more peculiarly adapted to young men, viz. 1. +Coursing; 2. Fishing; 3. Fowling; the remaining seven were of the +domestic kind: 1. Barddoniaeth, or Poetical Composition; 2. Chwareu’r +Delyn, or paying upon the Harp; 3. Reading Welsh; 4. Singing with the +Harp; 5. Singing between three or four, most probably in alternate +Stanzas, or Pennillion; 6. Drawing or Painting, particularly Coats of +Arms; 7. Heraldry. After these were four _Gogampiau_, or Minor Games, +viz. 1. Chwarau Gwydd-bwyll, a game similar to that of Draughts; 2. +Chwarau Tawl-Bwrdd, probably Back-gammon, as this word is supposed to be +derived from the Welsh Language, viz. Bach, little, and _Cammawn_, or +Gammon, Battle, and Tewl-Bwrdd, means the toss on the table; 3. Chwarau +Ffristeal, or the Game of the Dice Box, in what manner it was played is +not known at present; 4. Cyweiriaw Telyn, or the Tuning of the Harp. + +After visiting these Circles, the traveller may either proceed to the top +of Pen-maen-mawr, or descend to the high road, near Dwygyfylchi Church, +not far from which, just at the foot of Pen-maen-bach, is Pendyffryn, the +seat of T. Smith, Esq.—In the clefts of the rock, above the +Turnpike-gate, near Pen-maen-mawr, grows the CRATÆGUS ARIA, or White Beam +Tree; Mr. Pennant observes that the Swiss procure a good kind of Ardent +Spirit from the berries. The summit of this mountain seems to have been +fortified by two or three walls, one within the other; and there are +still visible the remains of a great number of Huts, or small buildings, +most probably at one time the habitations of Soldiers; it was no doubt a +strong military Post, and is supposed to have been made use of by the +Britons and Romans. The Roman Road, from Segontium to Conovium, must +have passed near it, probably on the South side; and this high mountain, +so conspicuous and so easily distinguished at a distance, formed a kind +of link, no doubt, in the military chain of communication between this +County and Denbighshire, as it is very visible from Dinorwick, (now +called Pen Dinas) a Roman Encampment in the Parish of Llanddeiniolen, +near Carnarvon, on the West, and from many fortified eminences in the +other County, on the East. The usual signals in ancient times were fires +by night, and a particular kind of flag by day. Having examined _Braich +y Dinas_, which is the name by which the fortified part of the mountain +is distinguished, we now proceed along the high road through the Parish +of Llanfair fechan, and leaving that small Church on an eminence, a +little to the left of the road, and on the right Brynn y Neuadd, an old +neglected family seat, at one time the property of Humphrey Roberts, Esq. +and afterwards conveyed to the Wynne’s of Plas Newydd, near Denbigh, by +the marriage of his daughter to a son of that family, we soon pass +Gorddinog, (Mrs. Crawley’s) also on the left, and soon reach the +beautiful little Village of Aber, situated near a small river, and at the +entrance of a narrow Glenn. Near the Bridge is a Circular Mount, +seemingly artificial, which was the foundation of a small Castle, +probably constructed of timber, as many of our Welsh Fortresses are +stated to have been consumed by fire. Several of the Welsh Princes +resided occasionally at this place, and David ap Llywelyn died here, +about the year 1246, and was buried in the Abbey of Conway. + +Traces of Buildings have been discovered near this spot, which were +probably the remains of the Prince’s Palace, as the inhabitants still +pretend to shew strangers the foundation of the old kitchen. Several +Memorials, &c. appear in our Welsh Histories, dated Aber Garth Celyn, +which is the ancient name by which this place was distinguished. William +de Breos, (son of Reginald, a potent Baron in the Reign of Henry III.) +who had been taken prisoner by the Welsh Prince Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, was +detected in an intrigue with Joan his wife, (daughter to the King of +England). The enraged Prince, upon the discovery of her infidelity, +caused her paramour to be hung on the side of the opposite hill; and +there is a tradition, that the Princess going out the next morning, and +accidentally meeting the Bard of the Palace, the latter (knowing that she +was ignorant of the fate of her lover) accosted her in the following +poetical rhyme: + + Diccyn, doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn, + Beth a roit ti am welad Gwilym? + +that is, “Tell me wife of Llywelyn, what you would give for a sight of +your William?” to which she answered:— + + Cymru, Lloegr a Llywelyn, + Y rown i gyd am weled Gwilym! + + _i.e._ Wales and England, and Llywelyn, + I would give them all to see my William! + +The Bard, on receiving this answer, shewed him to her, hanging on a tree, +on the side of a hill, at a place now called Wern Grogedig. It is added +in Camden, “Tradition buries De Breos in a Cave, in a field called Cae +Gwilym Ddu.” {30} Nearly at the extremity of this romantic Glenn, about +a mile from the Village, the River forms a noble Cataract, precipitating +itself down the front of a bold lofty rock, and making a double fall, the +lowest of which is of very considerable height. This Village is much +frequented in the summer season, and the accommodations at the Inn are +very good. The beach, at high water, is very convenient for sea-bathing, +and many strangers remain here some time for that purpose. There is a +road from hence, over the mountain, by Bwlch y Ddau Faen, to Tal y Cafn +ferry, Llanbedr and Llanrwst; and another over the sands to Beaumaris, +but this latter is not to be attempted by a stranger without a guide. It +is remarked by Mr. Pennant that all the Passes between the mountains were +guarded by Forts and Castles, for besides this at Aber, Craig y Gaer and +Maes y Gaer were fortified; and there was a Fort at Nant Ffranco; (or +Nant Afangcwn) near Pont y Twr, another at Dolbadarn, Nant Pevis; Castell +Cidwm, Nant y Bettws; Craig y Dinas, near Llanllyfni; a Fort near +Dolbenmaen, and an old Cattle at Dolydd Elen, and Dinas Emrys, in Nant +Gwynant, near Bethgelert. Lord Bulkeley is the proprietor of the +greatest part of the Parish of Aber, and he has been a great benefactor +to this Church, as well as to all the others in his Lordship’s Patronage, +having built a tower (or Steeple) to each, at his own expence, and +furnished them with Bells. The distance from hence to Bangor is about +five miles, and as the stranger proceeds he cannot help admiring the +ever-varying Scene, and the beauty of the prospects which present +themselves to his view: On the Anglesey shore, the Town of Beaumaris, +Baron Hill, The Friars, Red Hill, &c. claim his attention; and directly +before him, on the Carnarvonshire side, he will perceive the Village and +much-admired Church of Llandegai, and near it Penrhyn Woods and Castle, +rising in Majestic grandeur. The Church of Llandegai has lately been +very much improved and beautified, by means of a very handsome Legacy, +left by the late Lady Penrhyn for that purpose. The whole of the +interior has been renewed, viz. the Seats, Pulpit, Communion, Ceiling, +Plastering, and Floor, and the Tower raised, in order to admit a Peal of +Six Bells, a Legacy for which having been also left by Lady Penrhyn, as +well as one for the erection of a Monument to her deceased Lord, which is +now fixed up in the Church, and is a most superb and elegant piece of +work; it is made of Statuary Marble, and represents two Figures, one a +Quarryman, with an Iron Bar and Slate knife in his hand, reading the +inscription, and reflecting on the loss of his benefactors, the other is +a female Peasant Girl, weeping over the loss of her deceased Lord and +Lady; there are some other smaller Figures, very descriptive of the +progress of improvement amongst the Peasantry, under the directing +influence of his Lordship. + +Whilst we are speaking of Llandegai Village and Church, we must not omit +here to notice a very great improvement, and accommodation to the public, +which has been effected, at very considerable expence, through the +liberality of Mr. Pennant, we mean the new piece of road, to the left, +made to avoid that dangerous and ugly hill near the Church. This part of +the County has within the last thirty years been abundantly improved by +the late Lord Penrhyn, under the judicious management and direction of +Benjamin Wyatt, Esq. of Lime Grove, his Lordship’s Agent, two individuals +who were real benefactors to the Country, and whose names have every +claim to the grateful recollections not only of the inhabitants of this +neighbourhood, but of all those whom business or pleasure may induce to +enter this County, by way of Capel Curig and Nant Ffrancon, which is now +the great Post Road from Shrewsbury to Holyhead. At the former place, an +Inn, upon a very commodious and extensive scale, has been erected by the +late Lord Penrhyn; and his successor, Mr. Pennant, with the view of +giving greater facility and convenience to Travellers, has lately erected +there a Cottage and Stables near the road, in order to give those who +might find it inconvenient to go down to the Inn, an opportunity of +changing horses at the road, and also for the better accommodation of the +Mail and Stage Coaches; he has likewise built new Stables at Tynymaes, +and made the Inn there into a Posting House, to divide that long and +tedious stage, which used to be from Capel Curig to Bangor-ferry. Capel +Curig is distant from Bangor about 15 miles, S.W.—The road to it is +carried up the romantic and stupendous Valley of Nant Ffrancon. The +formation of such a road, in so rude and unfrequented a region, was one +of the earliest and most important improvements which the late Lord +Penrhyn effected, in this part of the Country; it has since undergone, in +proportion to the increase of pecuniary resources, and to the progress of +other local improvements, frequent alterations, and is now, from the +munificence of Government, who have lately taken this affair into their +own hands, one of the most perfect and magnificent roads, in the kingdom. +But, important as this work was, at its commencement, under the public +spirit of Lord Penrhyn, it is far from being all which was accomplished +or promoted by that patriotic nobleman. The following extract from a +memoir of the late Mr. Wyatt, published in the North Wales Gazette for +January, 1818, will give us a more enlarged view of this matter:— + + “It was by so able an exercise of his judgment and taste, that the + domain of Penrhyn, at that period a very wilderness, disregarded as a + place of residence, and the house in a state of venerable + dilapidation, was heightened into its present circumstances of + dignified and stately elegance—that a wild and unprofitable morass + has since been made to assume, in the admired situation and + arrangements of Lime Grove, the features of comfort, of profit, and + of ornament—that the agricultural properties of the Estate were + promoted into a condition of progressive improvement; the cottage of + the labourer, and the habitation of the tenantry, in many instances, + into dwellings of neatness and comfort to themselves, giving + animation, variety, and interest to the scenery which surrounded + them—that such excellent facilities were effected for bringing into + light and action, the hidden and long neglected treasures of the + slate rock on the banks of the Ogwen; which, through a happy union of + subsequent commercial interests, and the spirited manner in which + those interests are conducted, are now so richly swelled into a + stream of affluence to the proprietor, and of honest industry and + subsistence to many hundreds of the poor.—Such are a few, but far + from being all the testimonies, which this country now exhibits of + the judgment and abilities of the late Mr. Wyatt; nor ought we, + indeed, to have omitted in this short catalogue, as remarkable + monuments of his well-cultivated taste, the noble marine Baths at + Penrhyn, the fascinating and graceful Villa at Ogwen Bank, and the + characteristic order and embellishments of the Dairy farm at + Pen-isa-nant.” + +The Slate Quarry is distant about six miles from Bangor, on the road to +Capel Curig, and is in every respect worthy of a visit from the Tourist; +it exhibits a most interesting and surprising display of art and +industry, from 7 to 800 men being in constant employment there, and the +vast excavation, which from near thirty years labour at it, is now made +into the heart of the mountain, presents to the view a variety of +picturesque and magnificent scenery, richly deserving the inspection of +the artist. Within half a mile of the Slate Quarry is Ogwen Bank, an +elegant and romantic little retreat—a perfect _bijou_, designed by the +late Lord Penrhyn, and still used by the family, as an occasional resort +for refreshment and recreation, on paying a morning visit to the Quarry, +or other objects of curiosity in the vicinity. Near to this is +Pen-issa-nant, formerly intended as a Dairy and Poultry Farm to Penrhyn +Castle, for which purposes, the most ample, elegant, and ingenious +arrangements were made, and the house designed and fitted up with +peculiar simplicity and prettiness, perfectly correspondent with the +nature of its object. These two places are accessible to all respectable +visitors; the road to them, from Bangor, abounds in grand and interesting +prospects.—Penrhyn Castle and Woods, at all times a rich and remarkable +feature in the Scenery—the Sea, bounded by the distant Promontory of +Ormes Head—the protruding bulkiness of Pen-maen-mawr—the bold and mighty +barrier of Mountains, forming the most picturesque lines with the +horizon, and extending nearly all round the distant Scene—these are the +chief ingredients of this distinguished and beautiful landscape. The +present proprietor of Penrhyn Castle is G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. to whom +the property was left. This gentleman seems to possess a spirit of +improvement no less active than his noble predecessor. The Park, which +till within these few years formed the domain to this stately residence, +has been very extensively enlarged by the present proprietor, who has +enclosed the same by a wall of considerable length, which is done in a +manner deserving the example of others, for its neat, strong, and +masterly work;—the coping of the wall is peculiarly handsome, and +characteristic of the county, being formed of the waste ends of the Slate +rock, fixed in a rough and uneven manner, giving the whole a bold and +substantial appearance.—Within the precincts of this Park, and protruding +a considerable distance into the sea, is a very handsome building, +containing a large private sea-water bath, with warm baths contiguous to +it. This edifice is understood to have cost the late Lord Penrhyn not +less than £4000. and perhaps not to be equalled for elegance and +commodiousness in the kingdom. Penrhyn Castle is itself a modern +building, (with the exception of one small circular Tower) and was +erected by Lord Penrhyn, from designs of the late Samuel Wyatt, Esq., a +brother of his Lordship’s Agent, before-mentioned. The principal rooms +are commodious and elegant, particularly the Drawing-room, which is a +very stately and handsome apartment, but the Architecture of the house +cannot be said fairly to bear any technical character; being neither of +the Grecian, Roman, Gothic, nor English domestic stile, but an insipid +and unmeaning attempt at all. Rumour however says, that the present +proprietor contemplates some very important improvements. The situation +is one which has every claim to a noble and distinguished edifice. + +Lime Grove, the neat and appropriate residence of Mr. Wyatt, the Agent of +Mr. Pennant, (and son of the former Mr. Wyatt, before alluded to) is +situated in the lower part of Penrhyn Park, to the West; this house was +also planned by the late S. Wyatt, Esq. and in point of chasteness and +technical purity, is more creditable to his taste than the greater work +at Penrhyn Castle. The grounds, and what may be called the rural economy +of Lime Grove, have ever been deservedly admired. + +Contiguous to this part of Penrhyn Park, and to the North West of it, is +Port Penrhyn.—This is a very noble and commodious arrangement, made for +the accommodation of the Merchant Vessels, employed for the conveyance of +the Slate from the afore-mentioned Quarry, to different parts of the +Kingdom, and for receiving and stowing the productions of that Quarry +until they are lodged on board the Vessels waiting to receive them. The +vastly increasing demand for these Slates, {38} necessarily requires a +proportionate scale of the means for supplying it, consequently the Quay, +at Port Penrhyn, has lately undergone very considerable enlargement, by +the present proprietor, G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. which alike does credit to +his liberal spirit in projecting it, as to the builder in its masterly +execution; it will accommodate 50 sail, in addition to the old Quay, and +will greatly facilitate the Trade there. The beautiful Bridge too, which +Mr. Pennant is now building over the Cegin, at Port Penrhyn, will +considerably improve the communication between that place and the Town of +Bangor, and be a great public accommodation in other respects, at the +same time it makes a handsome finish to the Pier, which we understand to +be upwards of 300 yards in length, and we have no hesitation in saying +that when the whole is completed, it will form one of the most complete +Shipping places in the Principality. The Slates are conveyed from the +Quarry, in Nant Ffrancon, to this Port, a distance of 8 miles, by means +of small waggons, linked together in succession, and running upon a +rail-road. The expedition and facility with which the Slates are thus +conveyed from the Quarry to the Ships is very remarkable. + +Proceeding from Port Penrhyn to Bangor, the situation of the Inn, called +the Penrhyn Arms, at less than a quarter of a mile from the Port, on the +brow of the hill, is well worthy of observation. The view from the +Bowling-green, attached to this house, is very celebrated, and deservedly +so. The component parts of this fine picture need not be detailed to the +stranger, who visits and sees it—but in a word it may be said to be a +most majestic, impressive and interesting Scene. + +From this rich and animating display of nature’s works, we must now (as +faithful pioneers through the County of Carnarvon) turn our eyes to the +works of Art in this neighbourhood; the first that presents itself is the +great Post Road, from Shrewsbury to Holyhead, which has been lately much +altered, and in many places in this vicinity entirely diverted from the +old line. It has been found necessary, in order to render the ascent +near the Penrhyn Arms easier, to cut about 12 or 15 feet deep, and one or +two hundred in length, and to throw an Archway over, to preserve the +communication from the above Inn to the Terrace, a handsome mansion, and +in point of Scenery, beautifully situated, but which, from the +above-mentioned excavation, seems to the passing Traveller, to rest on an +insecure foundation. But before we proceed farther, and that we may +preserve uniformity, it will be necessary to present our readers with a +short History of + + + +BANGOR. + + +So called from Bann and Cor, the great or lofty Choir, (and not from +Pen-chor, as Mr. Nicholas Owen supposes); it is an episcopal See, and a +small Market Town, situated in a narrow defile, near a small brook called +_Tor onnen_, (as Leland informs us) opening gradually to the Sea, +Eastward, which comes within less than a quarter of a mile of the Town. +St. Dubricius, (called by the Welsh Dufrig Ben eurog) who was Archbishop +of Caerlleon, upon Usk, in Monmouthshire, is said to have consecrated +Daniel ap Dunod, first Bishop of this See, about the year 550. This +Daniel or Deiniol, according to the Welsh Records, was Abbot of Bangor +Iscoed, in Flintshire, from whence he retired to this place, where he +founded a College, for the instruction of youth, and it is supposed to +have continued a Cell or Member of the other Bangor, until it was +converted into a Bishoprick by Prince Maelgun Gwynedd. The above St. +Dubritius is reported to have resigned in favour of St. David, and to +have retired to the Island of Bardsey, (Enlli) after having assisted at +the Synod of Brevi, (now called Llanddewi Brevi, in Cardiganshire) which +circumstance is commemorated in the following Welsh lines: + + Pan oedd Saint Senedd Brevi, + (Drwy arch y Prophwydi) + Ar ôl gwiw Bregeth Dewi + Yn myned i Ynys Enlli. + + “When the Saints of the Synod of Brevi, after the good sermon of St. + David, were going (by the direction of the Prophets) to the Island of + Bardsey.” + +The extent of this Diocese, at that time, is uncertain; but the present +comprehends all Anglesey and Carnarvonshire, except the following +parishes, situated on the East of the river Conway, viz. Llysvaen, Eglwys +Rhôs, and Llangwstenin, which are in the Diocese of St. Asaph; in +Denbighshire it has fourteen Parishes; seven in Montgomeryshire, and the +greatest part of Merionethshire is also in this Diocese. + +The Cathedral is a venerable Gothic building, spacious and convenient, +but, at present it may be considered, in some measure, in a dilapidated +state, as the Chapter have been waiting some time for the Lord +Chancellor’s decision as to the _quantum_ of Grant, which his Lordship +may consider necessary to allow, in order to put the Fabric in complete +repair. Its dimensions are as follows, the North and South Cross Aisles +are 30 feet 6 inches, North and South, and 25 East and West, so that the +whole length of the Cross Aisle, from North to South, is 86 feet the +inside. From the Arch which opens to the Choir, to the East end of the +Stalls, is 27 feet, from thence to the East end of the Bishop’s Throne 6 +feet, and from thence to the Altar 21 feet, whole length of the Choir 54 +feet, which added to the space of the cross Aisle 25 feet, the Nave 110 +feet, Steeple 19 feet, makes the whole length from East to West, 208. +The breadth of the Choir, from wall to wall, is 26 feet 6 inches, the +breadth of the Stalls 4 feet, 6 inches, that of the Choristers seats +nearly 3 feet; the height of the Choir and Nave 34 feet, of the Aisle 24 +feet; thickness of the Walls which support the Arches in the North and +South Aisles is 4 feet. The Chapter Room was repaired and partly rebuilt +in Bishop Moore’s time, and the Nave new roofed in that of Warren. There +are now belonging to this Cathedral, a Bishop, (H. W. Majendie, D.D.) a +Dean, (J. Warren, B.D.) three Archdeacons, two of which were annexed to +the Bishopric by Act of Parliament, A.D. 1685, a Treasurer, and two +Prebendaries, endowed; a Precentor, {43} Chancellor, and three Canons, +not endowed; two Vicars Choral, an Organist, four Lay Clerks, Choristers, +and other officers.—About the year 975, King Edgar coming into North +Wales, at Bangor confirmed the ancient privileges of the Church, and +bestowed Lands upon it, and caused a new Church to be founded on the +South side of the Cathedral, dedicated to the blessed Virgin, which +Church or Chapel was, by Dean Kyffin, converted into a Chantry of singing +Priests; this place is supposed to have been the same which afterwards +became the residence of the Vicar. Anion, (or Eineon) Archdeacon of +Anglesey, became Bishop about the year 1268, and is reported to have held +a Synod at St. Mary’s de Garth Brannan, the ancient Parish Church of +Bangor, now entirely down, since the year 1291, but which is supposed to +have been about 400 yards from the Cathedral. He also christened Edward +the Second, in Carnarvon Castle, April 25th, 1284, and for this and other +services, had several Manors or Regalities bestowed upon him and his +successors, as the Manor of Treffos, (said to have been afterwards the +residence of the Bishops of Bangor for some years) and some Cantreds in +the Island of Anglesey, the Ferries of Porthaethwy and Cadnant, over the +Menai, the Manors of Bangor, Castellmai and Garth Gogo, (now Gogarth). +In his time also the house in London was given. The offices secundum +usum Bangor, were recovered by Bishop Humphreys, from a private library, +and new bound, by the direction and at the expence of the late Dr. John +Jones; it was compiled by Bishop Anian, (Eineon) or at least given by +him. The Cathedral was destroyed in the year 1071, and was soon +afterwards re-built, for we find that in 1212, King John invaded the +country, forced the Bishop (Robert of Shrewsbury) from before the Altar, +and obliged him to pay two hundred Hawks for his ransom. In the year +1402, it was again reduced to ruin, by the rage of Owen Glyndwr, and +continued neglected for ninety years, when the Choir was restored by +Bishop Dean or Deny. The present body and tower were erected by that +liberal Prelate Bishop Skeffington, as appears by the following +inscription, at the West end, “_Thomas Skevington_, _Episcopus Bangoriæ_, +_hoc campanile et Ecclesiam fieri fecit Ann. partus_ 1532.” The height +of the Tower is about sixty feet, it was to have been raised considerably +higher, but the death of the Bishop prevented the execution of that +design. The windows were made or glazed according to the custom of the +times, by the piety of different persons, among whom may be reckoned Dean +Kyffin, and some of the Griffiths of Penrhyn. Bishop Lloyd gave the +Bells. On the South side of the Choir is a Mural Monument of Bishop +Morgan, who died September, 1673, aged 65, also another in memory of +Anne, daughter of Bishop Humphreys. The Busts of Bishops Vaughan and +Rowlands, which were decapitated, and otherwise disfigured in the +fanatical times of Oliver Cromwell, were removed in 1810. Bishop H. +Rowlands erected the Monument in memory of Bishop Vaughan, as a token of +his affection; he died Bishop of London, A.D. 1607. Bishop Edward +Griffith is supposed to have been buried near this spot. Bishop Rowlands +died July 1616, and is here buried, _ætatis_ 65; here also is buried +Bishop Lloyd ob. 15th Feb. 1688, _ætat._ 78. About the space of two +stones off lie Bishop Nich. Robinson and Bishop Robert Morgan, both in +one grave; the stone is or was partly covered by the rails; Morgan died +September, 1673, aged 65. Bishops Bailey and Meyrick were buried on the +South of the Communion Table. One stone with a plate upon it, is this +inscription: “_Gulielmus __Glynn natus in Insula Mona_, _&c._” he was +Bishop of Bangor in 1555. That wise and valiant Prince, Owen Gwynedd, is +supposed to have been buried beneath an Arch, with a flowery Cross cut on +a flat stone; he died regretted by his countrymen and feared by his foes, +in 1169. On the floor is a mutilated figure, in brass, designed for +Richard Kyffin, the active Dean of the Cathedral, in the Reigns of +Richard III. and Henry VII. He was a strenuous friend to the house of +Lancaster, and when he was Prebendary of Llanddwyn, and resident there as +Rector of the place, he concerted, in conjunction with Sir Rhys (or Rice) +ap Thomas, of Dinevor, and other Welsh Chieftains, a plan for the +bringing in the Duke of Richmond, then in Brittany, to whom they +transmitted, by means of fishing Vessels, all the necessary intelligence. +He died the 13th of August 1502. The place of his interment was till +within these few years (and probably may be so still) distinguished by +the name of _Bedd y Deon Du_, or the grave of the black Dean, who was so +called, in all probability, from his complexion. It appears, from the +Sebright MSS. that our wise and brave Prince Griffith ap Cynan, was +interred on the left side of the great Altar, in the year 1137, and that +an elegant shrine was erected over his grave, of which however not a +vestige now remains. In the Parish Church of Llandegai, +before-mentioned, is still to be seen a mural Monument, with a long Latin +inscription, to the memory of the celebrated John Williams, Archbishop of +York, in the time of Charles the First; he is represented in his +episcopal Dress, kneeling at an Altar. This great Prelate was born at +Conway; his father, _Edmund_, was sixth son of the neighbouring family of +_Cochwillan_, and a branch of that of Penrhyn; his life was written by +Bishop Hackett, and the late Rev. Sneyd Davies, after viewing the +Monument, wrote a beautiful little Poem, which is preserved in Dodsley’s +Collections. Here is also an Alabaster Monument of an armed Man and his +Lady, recumbent; they probably belonged to the neighbouring House, but on +the dissolution were removed from the Friery of Llanvaes in Anglesey, +where the persons represented had been interred. + +The Bishop’s Palace is an irregular building situate on the side of the +Hill, about one hundred yards to the North of the Cathedral; it was +partly re-built by Bishop Warren, and several handsome and commodious +apartments added to it, and it has been in other respects greatly +improved by the present worthy Prelate, Dr. Majendie. The residence of +the Dean is nearly adjoining the Church-yard, at the N. W. end of the +Cathedral. + +Nearly on the same spot where the Bangor Free Grammar School now stands, +a House of Friers Preachers was founded, according to Bishop Tanner, +about the year 1276, by Tudor ap Gronow, Lord of Penmynydd and +Trecastell, in Anglesey, who also enlarged or rebuilt it in 1299, and was +interred here in 1311. Leland’s words are “A Priory of White Freres, by +Bangor, dedicate to Jesu: there were once White Freres at Ruthin Dyffryn +Clwyd.” Edward VI. made a grant of this place to Thomas Brown and +William Bretton, and soon after it was converted into a Free School, by +Geffry Glynn, LL.D. an Advocate in Doctor’s Commons, and brother to +Bishop Glynn. By his Will, proved July 21, 1557, he left the management +of it to his brother, and to Maurice Griffith, Bishop of Rochester; but +the settlement not having been completed prior to their decease, they +delegated the same power to Sir William Petre and others, who agreed on +the Statutes for the Master and Usher, with the concurrence of the +Bishop, Dean, and Chapter, and of Alexander Nowel, Dean of St. Paul’s, +who is said to have composed them.—Mr. Pennant, in his Tour, informs us +that over the chimney piece, in the old School House, there was a +fragment of an ancient Monument, to one Gryffydd, with a long sword +carved on it, and on the staircase another stone, with the words ap +Tudor, probably part of the Tomb of the founder, Tudor ap Gronw ap Tudor. +A new School-room, together with a spacious and convenient dwelling-house +for the Master, adjoining, was erected here in the time of Bishop Warren, +and some new regulations made with regard to the management of the +School. Within the last few years a new house has also been built, a +little to the East of the former, for the residence of the Usher. This +Seminary is at present extremely well conducted, and deservedly held in +great repute: From having been for many years the third in eminence, +(Beaumaris and Ruthin being long considered as superior to it) this +establishment is now the most flourishing place of education in this +portion of the principality. + +Bishop Rowlands, born at Plas Myllteyrn, in Lleyn, founded here an +Hospital, or rather an Alms-house, for six poor men, and also a Free +School, at Bottwnog in this County, about the year 1616. The Dispensary, +a most useful and benevolent Institution was established in this City, +October, 1809, being the 50th Anniversary of our late good King’s +Accession, and the year of Jubilee, under the patronage of that excellent +Nobleman, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, the Lord Bishop of the Diocese, the +worthy Dean, and many other Noblemen and Gentlemen. It is with +heart-felt satisfaction we are able to add, that its Funds continue on +the increase, and every attention is paid to the numerous patients, by +Dr. Mason, the Physician; Mr. Roberts, the Surgeon, and Mr. Pugh, the +House Apothecary. + +The following tribute, to the memory of Mr. Edwards, the celebrated blind +Harper, who died at his sister’s, (Mrs. Jones, Pen yr Allt, Bangor) on +Friday, the 13th January, 1815, aged 65, may not be unacceptable to the +reader, the author is unknown: + + Ah! quench’d is now that Minstrel’s fire, + And mute those strings, whose magic tone + Could once e’en Cambria’s Rocks inspire, + And move to life her mountain stone. + + Cold is the hand, that once could sweep + The native Harp, with Bardic sway; + Could lull each passion rude to sleep, + And drive the steps of care away. + + Ah come ye kindred Minstrels here, + To kiss the Harp your master sway’d, + And o’er it drop the mournful tear, + And let it in his grave be laid. + + For now like him ’tis mute and dead, + Its accents all are hush’d and still; + The power is gone—the spirit fled, + And every nerve in death is chill. + + But shall that spirit rise no more, + And shall its powers no more revive, + And, on this “Muse deserted shore,” + Shall no such Bard hereafter live? + + Oh! Cambria, scorn the hateful dream, + And raise thy drooping downcast head; + Nor longer drop the pearly stream, + Not longer mourn thy Minstrel dead. + + For yet some Heaven-taught child of thine, + In ages yet unborn may rise; + Some sapling of this Minstrel’s line, + And lift thy glory to the skies. + +A new Market House, Town Hall, &c. have lately been built here, which is +at once an improvement to the Town, and a convenience to farmers and +others of the neighbourhood; a good Inn, on a commodious plan, adjoins it +called the Waterloo Tavern. Several mean unsightly dwellings, at the +East end of the Church-yard, have been taken down, and a new House +erected for the residence of one of the Vicars. In short, from the +speculative spirit of the inhabitants, and the increasing demand for +Slates at Port Penrhyn, which, as well as the Quay at Hirael, is +generally crowded not only with small craft, but with Ships of +considerable burthen, Bangor seems advancing rapidly into consequence; it +is also of late years become a place of fashionable resort, particularly +in the Summer season. The population, according to the last _Census_, in +1811, was 2393, and it may now be stated at nearly 3000. The principal +Inns, are the Castle, near the Cathedral, Crown and Anchor, and Waterloo +Tavern in the Centre; the Penrhyn Arms at the East, and the Vaynol Arms +at the West end of the Town. + +Hugh Lupus, in his barbarous inroads into Anglesey, founded a Castle at +Bangor, in order to carry on his ravages with greater security; it was +situated nearly a quarter of a mile Eastward of the Town, on the ridge of +hills which bound the S.E. side of the Vale, and nearly the same distance +from the Port. It was on a rocky, and in many parts a precipitous hill. +Three sides of the Walls are easily to be traced: on the S.E. side, they +extended a hundred and twenty yards; on the S.W. sixty-six, ending at a +precipice; the N.E. may be traced forty yards, and ends in the same +manner. On the fourth side, the natural strength of the place rendered a +farther defence useless; Mounds of Earth, tending to a semicircular form, +with rocks and precipices, connect the N.E. and S.W. walls. The precise +time of its demolition is not known, but probably as soon as the Earl had +effected his design it was suffered to fall to ruin. + +In this Parish, about a mile and a half to the South of the Town, was +discovered about the year 1806, at a place called Ty Coch, belonging to +Captain Taylor, a Stone, with the following inscription; + + NVMNC + IMP CAESAR M + AVRELANTONINVS + PIVS TI IX AVG ARAB + IX + +It is probable, that after the traveller has examined the City of Bangor +and its environs, he may be tempted to cross over to the Island of +Anglesey; and if he be a pedestrian, he would find the passage over +_Garth_, (formerly called Cadnant) Ferry the shortest and pleasantest way +to Beaumaris; but if the party have a horse or carriage, the road to +Porth Aethwy, (otherwise called Bangor Ferry) where the new Iron Bridge +is now erecting, must be pursued. And here it may be proper, before we +proceed any further, to inform the stranger that there are six ferries +across the Menai, which I shall mention here in regular order, beginning +with Beaumaris, over the Lavan Sands, to Aber; 2. Garth, near Bangor, +which is confined solely to foot passengers; 3. Porth Aethwy, {53} +before-mentioned, the best, safest, and most convenient; 4. Moel y Donn, +a very safe good ferry, and sober careful boatmen; 5. Tal y Foel, +opposite Carnarvon; 6. Abermenai, at the extreme Westerly end of the +Straits, about three miles below Carnarvon.—The best rout for any person +who may be inclined to make a tour of the Island, would be to proceed +from Bangor Ferry to Beaumaris, along the delightful new terrace road, +made at the sole expence of that munificent Nobleman, who is an honour to +his Country, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, which may justly be pronounced one +of the most grand and picturesque rides in the kingdom, commanding a full +view of Beaumaris bay, with its winding Shores, projecting Capes and +Promontories, together with the vast and magnificent chain of +Carnarvonshire Hills and Mountains, towering in succession, in majestic +eminence and grandeur, and in variety of shapes, until their summits are +lost in the clouds. After visiting the Castle and other Antiquities in +and about this beautiful Town, the traveller is recommended to proceed +from Beaumaris to Red Wharf, and along the Sea-coast to Amlwch, famous +for its extensive and lucrative Copper Mines, and which are well worthy +the stranger’s attention, and from thence to the town of Holyhead, where +Government has erected, at an immense expence, one of the finest Piers in +Great Britain; at the extremity is a very handsome Light-House, which, +together with the Lamps along the Pier, being lighted up with Gas, +renders the Scene, at night, brilliant and imposing. He may then return +into Carnarvonshire either along the Post Road to Llangefni, and thence +to Moel y Donn ferry, or if he be curious enough to explore the whole of +the Island, along the Western Coast to Aberfraw and Newborough, and +re-cross either at Abermenai, Tal y Foel, or Moel y Donn. + +As the Tourist may probably be desirous to know the names of the +gentlemen’s seats, which appear so conspicuous on the Anglesey shore, +from this side the water, and which seem to claim his attention, as he +proceeds along, I shall here for his satisfaction describe them as they +occur, beginning with the most Easterly, viz. Friers, the seat of Sir +Robert Williams, Baronet, M.P. for the County of Carnarvon; which is +situated a mile beyond Beaumaris, near the Sea coast, not far from the +site of a Religious House of the Franciscan order,—next is Baron Hill, +the seat of Lord Viscount Bulkeley, embosomed in woods, and commanding a +most extensive and enchanting view, having the Town, Castle, and Bay of +Beaumaris in front,—near it is Red Hill, the residence of Colonel +Sparrow,—next in order is Lady Bulkeley’s neat Cottage, on the Beaumaris +new road, and just below it Craig y Donn, the delightful Summer +habitation of Owen Williams, Esq. M.P. for Great Marlow, who is fond of +sailing, and has an elegant Cutter at anchor near his house,—next is +Cadnant, the seat of J. Price, Esq. in a small recess on the side of a +narrow dingle;—these are the principal seats to the East of the great +Irish road. But, before we proceed any further, the stranger cannot +avoid noticing the singular situation of a small Church, on a barren +rock, forming a little Peninsula, about a quarter of a mile to the West +of Bangor-Ferry, called Llandissilio. {55} We then proceed to another +small Church, called Llanfair (or St. Mary’s) Pwll Gwyn Gell,—and near +it, the Vicarage House; and just below that Llanfair Hall, the seat of +Colonel Peacock. And here I must not omit noticing a very elegant +Column, situated on a high rock, behind Llanfair Church, erected by +subscription of £1 each person, (and which was soon filled, so eager were +the gentlemen of the neighbourhood to contribute), and intended to +commemorate the brave, skilful, and intrepid conduct of that gallant +Nobleman, the Marquess of Anglesey, at the Battle of Waterloo. Not far +from hence is that rocky or obstructed part of the Straits or Channel of +the Menai, called by the Welsh Pwll Ceris, {56} and by the English the +Swelly; the fury of the tide, during ebb and flow, is almost +inconceivable, except by the navigator: here are great over-falls and +violent whirl-pools, but at high water all is still. This is a great +obstacle to the navigation of large vessels, which must consult the +critical season, and provide a good Pilot; and as the Merchants of +Carnarvon, and others, were very apprehensive that the erection of a +Bridge at Bangor Ferry, would materially injure the Trade, Government has +proposed to defray the expence of blasting the Rocks, and to render every +other practicable facility to the improvement of the navigation in this +part of the Channel. + +After this short digression, we now proceed to Plas Newydd, the +magnificent Seat of the Marquess of Anglesey, situated on a beautiful +curve of the Menai, and protected on three sides by venerable Oak Trees, +which reminds us of the Groves, in which the Druids are represented by +Tacitus to have concealed themselves from the Roman Army, and also +recalls to our remembrance the ancient name of Anglesey, _Ynys Dywyll_, +the Dark Island, on account of the deep shade of its groves: + + — These woods + Were tenanted by Bards, who nightly thence, + Rob’d in their flowing vests of innocent white, + Issu’d with Harps, that glitter to the moon, + Hymning immortal strains. + + MASON’S CARACTACUS. + +It lies within 80 or 100 yards of the Menai, with a fine lawn in front, +sloping to the edge of the water; it commands a fine view both towards +Carnarvon and Bangor, which is rendered doubly interesting when the tide +is in, and the river covered with Ships of various sizes, together with +his Lordship’s Cutter, and those of T. A. Smith, Esq. of Vaynol, and Owen +Williams, Esq. of Craig y Don, sailing up and down, and contending with +each other, thus rendering the scene more animating. On the contrary, in +boisterous weather, here you behold from your fire side, (if you please,) +the mariner exerting his strength to guide his ship, and contending with +the storm; sweet retreat! delightful abode! + + Suave mari magno, turbantibus æquora ventis, + E terra magnum alterius spectare laborem. + + “Pleasing from danger free, to hear on shore, + The tempests whistle and the billows roar.” + +Behind the House are to be seen two vast _Cromlechs_, the upper stone of +one is twelve feet seven inches long, twelve broad, and four thick, +supported by five tell ones; the other is but barely separated from the +first, is almost a square of five feet and a half, and supported by four +stones. The number of supporters to _Cromlechs_ are supposed to be +merely accidental, and to depend on the size and form of the incumbent +stone. Dr. Borlase, in his History of _Cornwall_, has shewn the +improbability of these stones ever being designed or used as Altars; the +figure proves the impossibility of making fires, or performing sacrifices +on their sloping summits, and almost all which I have seen (observes Mr. +Pennant) have an inclination. It is reasonable to suppose them to have +been sepulchral monuments, (probably of their Arch Druids) and that the +body might be lodged in the space beneath, and near the monument divine +honours might be paid, or sacrifices performed to the manes of the +dead.—This species of monument is to be found in most parts of Europe, in +Scandinavia, in Holland and in France; in the last, the _Pierre Levee_, +near Poitiers, is a stupendous specimen; they extend even farther South, +for Mr. Armstrong gives a drawing of one of this nature in Minorca. They +vary in form, in many the space between the supporters is closed up with +stones of greater or lesser size, and thus formed a sufficient security +to the remains of the deceased therein deposited. Probably all or most +of those which we see in our Island, might originally have been thus +closed up, and the stones since taken away, and applied to other uses; +others are again quite bedded in the _Carnedd_, as is the case with that +at Llanfaelog, in this Island. Not far from the _Cromlech_ is a large +_Carnedd_, part of which has been removed; within was discovered a Cell, +about seven feet long and three wide, covered at the top with two flat +stones, and lined on the sides with others. On the top of the stones +were two semicircular holes, of size sufficient to take in the human +neck; it is conjectured that above might have been another, so that both +together might perform the office of a stocks.—It is indeed conjecture, +yet not an improbable one, that in this place were confined, the wretches +destined for sacrifice, as it is well known that they performed those +execrable rites, and often upon captives who had suffered long +imprisonment, perhaps in Cells similar to this, and the common Welsh +proverb “_Bwrw caeth i Gythraul_,” to offer a captive to the Devil, seems +to confirm this opinion. After the tourist has examined the interior of +Plasnewydd, which he may easily do if he be so disposed, he is +recommended to pay a visit to Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful Cottage, the +_Lodge_, about a quarter of a mile to the East of this Princely mansion, +where his curiosity will no doubt be amply gratified, as that gentleman +has displayed peculiar taste and judgment in the embellishment and +decoration of that singularly elegant and much admired residence. Half a +mile to the West, and within the Park, are the Farm and Parish Church, +_Llan Edwen_, and very near these, in the same direction, is Plas Coch, a +venerable old Mansion, built in the time of Queen Elizabeth, and lately +repaired and improved by the present Proprietor, Sir W. Bulkeley Hughes, +Knight. Next is Porthamel, {60} late the seat of Mrs. Goodman, now of W. +Massey, Esq.; beyond which are Llanidan Church and Hall, the latter the +admired residence of the Hon. Mr. Ireby, eldest son of Lord Boston, and +nearly opposite Carnarvon, Tref-Arthen, Mr. Bogue’s, and Maes y Porth, W. +P. Lloyd, Esq. + +We shall now return to Bangor, and conduct the stranger by Bangor Ferry, +(which, although about a mile further is by far the most interesting +road) to Carnarvon, and as he proceeds he will find the views constantly +changing, and he will frequently be at a loss which most to admire,—the +Sea, the Mountains, or the landscape, up and down the Menai. Gorphwysfa, +{61a} a modern handsome Villa, between the Inn and the intended new +Bridge, built by Lord Lucan, and now the property and residence of O. A. +Poole, Esq. is the first place likely to attract his attention; this +charming spot is much admired—the grounds are laid out with great taste +and judgment. But before we proceed, the reader is to be informed that +£24,000. have been awarded by a jury, and allowed by Government, as an +indemnification to the Proprietor for the loss of the profits of the +Ferry, in consequence of the erection of the Bridge. On his right, after +he has passed the ferry, and as he ascends the Hill, is Treborth, the +seat of G. Barlow, Esq. and about a mile further, on the same side of the +road, surrounded by fine woods, and thriving plantations, is Vaynol, +{61b} the occasional residence, at particular times of the year, of T. A. +Smith, Esq. during a month or two in summer, to enjoy the pleasure of +sailing in his Cutter, and a few weeks in winter, for the amusement of +sporting. His usual abode is at Tedworth, near Andover Hants. This +gentleman is Proprietor of several excellent Slate Quarries, some of +which are considered the most productive of any in this part of the +Principality, next to those of G. H. D. Pennant, Esq.; but the proper +time for visiting these will be during an excursion from Carnarvon to +Llanberris. Vaenol was at one period the residence of a branch of the +Penrhyn Family, who were descended from Ednyfed Fychan. They obtained a +Baronetage June 15, 1622. Sir William Williams, the last of the line, +disposed of his property to Sir Boucher Wrey, with the remainder to King +William in fee, who made a grant of it to an ancestor of the present +proprietor. A curious Seal was discovered near this place, about two or +three years ago, supposed to be that of some Convent or Monastery, with +the image of the Virgin and child, and bearing the following inscription: +S. BEATÆ MARIÆ DE SI. . . . NE BEC . . . + +The next place which deserves to be noticed, in our progress towards +Carnarvon, is Bryn Tirion; the habitation of Thomas Jones, Esq.; this +house, which is nearly opposite Plas Newydd, stands on a beautiful +eminence, and commands an extensive view of the Straits, as far as +Abermenai.—In this neighbourhood, as well as on the opposite shore, are +considerable Lime-stone rocks; and indications of Iron Ore have also been +observed here, and, we understand, in one instance, a late trial has been +attended with success. It is the general opinion, when these two are +found in considerable quantities, that Coal is not far distant, and some +attempts have been made, at different times, to discover the vein, but +hitherto without effecting that object. Near this place is Aber y pwll, +a Harbour belonging to Mr. Smith, where his Slate are shipped off, and to +which a good new road has, within these few years, been made from his +Quarry. Half a mile farther is Moel y Don, a safe and commodious horse +Ferry, where no accident has happened in the memory of any person now +living. In the life of Gryffydd, ap Cynan, (one of our Welsh Princes) it +is said that a Castle was built here, by Aeloedd, King of Dublin, his +grandfather by the mother’s side, and there are still some remains of a +fortification, on a small eminence, close upon the Menai, about three +hundred yards below the Ferry. This place was also rendered memorable on +account of a Bridge of Boats, erected here by King Edward the First, A.D. +1282, {63} in repassing which, a detachment of his Army, together with a +number of _Gascon_ and Spanish troops, commanded by LUKE DE TANY, were +intercepted by the Welsh, who rush’d on them with hideous shouts, slew +numbers, and forced the remainder into the sea. On this occasion +perished the General himself, together with Roger Clifford the younger, +thirteen Knights, seventeen young gentlemen, and two hundred soldiers. +William Latimer alone escaped by the goodness of his horse, which swam +with him to the Bridge. Even if we suppose that a panic had seized the +English forces at this time, yet a considerable degree of praise is still +due to the intrepidity of my countrymen, as, when compared with the +troops of other countries, they fought nearly unarmed; in order to be +convinced of which, a person need only read a description of their +weapons and accoutrements, when they accompanied our valiant Prince +Richard Cœur de Lion into France, as given by William Brito, in Camden’s +Remains. + +When we have proceeded half a mile, we enter the beautiful woods of +Llanfair, the delightful seat of John Griffith, Esq. a gentleman, who +according the example of his ancestors, and the custom of “those good old +times,” resides constantly in the country, and gives employment to a +number of poor persons, who would otherwise, in all probability, be +chargeable to some Parish; he does not dismiss from his service the +super-anuated domestic—relieves the _wants_ of the indigent, and promotes +the comfort of the Cottager, by numerous acts of charity, and is an +indulgent and generous Landlord. The neatness of the fences, the +thriving state of the plantations, the rich appearance of the land, and +the judicious management of the Home-stall, together with the improved +method of farming, must attract the attention of every passenger. Nearer +Carnarvon, on the banks of the Menai, is the small but neat Parish Church +of Llanfair Isgaer, partly re-built at the above gentleman’s expence, and +from which his mansion takes its name. Not far from hence is Crûg, a +house once the property of Sir W. Williams Wynne, but which was purchased +by J. Griffith, Esq. of Llanfair; it deserves notice as being the place +where Meredith ap Jevan ap Robert of Cesail Gyfarch, ancestor of Sir John +Wynne, of _Gwydir_, was nursed, and from whence he removed to the Castle +of Dolydd Helen.—This Meredith (as Sir John Wynne informs us, in the +History of the Gwydir Family) married a daughter-in-law of one _Spicer_, +of Carnarvon, who had an office in the Exchequer in that Town, and was a +person of £50. per annum, and his son, John Spicer, was a Justice of the +Peace, in the first Commissions after the new Ordinance of Wales, as we +learn from the same authority. Within a mile of Carnarvon, and near the +road, is a handsome modern-built house, _Ty Coch_, the residence of the +Rev. H. Jones.—Near this place once stood an old Mansion, called Plas +Bretwn, belonging to the Breretons, a family who probably came to this +country with Edward the First, or soon after; and nearly in this +direction, a new Ferry was established within these few years, and we +lament to state that on the 5th of August, 1820, owing to the very +culpable negligence of the Ferrymen, in over-loading the boat, and +carrying too much sail, (it being a very windy day) it was upset, and out +of 26 persons, one man only was saved.—A similar accident happened about +37 years ago at Tal y Foel, (the Ferry opposite Carnarvon) with this +difference, that in the former instance the boat sunk in the day time, +and the passengers instantly went down, to rise no more, and in the +latter, it struck on a Sand Bank, in the middle of the Channel, during +the ebb of the tide, where these unfortunate people remained for many +hours, calling for that assistance, which, owing to the darkness of the +night; and the violence of the storm, it was impossible to afford them. +{66} Proceeding along the road, the traveller cannot but admire the +singularly beautiful entrance to + + + +CARNARVON, + + +which is rendered more striking by the summits of the Castle Towers, +Coedhelen Summer-house, as well as the extensive Bay and foaming Bar, +being distinctly seen in the rear of the Town.—Caernarvon is situated at +the month of the Seiont, on a small Peninsula, formed by that river and +the brook Cadnant, on the verge of the Straits of the Menai, which +separate this County from the Island of Anglesey; this Town is justly the +boast of North Wales, for beauty of situation—goodness of +buildings—regularity of plan, and above all for the grandeur and +magnificence of its Castle. Here an admirer of nature may forget his +cares, in contemplating the greatness of her works, or rather the +stupendous operations of His hand, whose Almighty _fiat_, and creative +energy, formed this terrestrial Globe, and called into existence the +“_everlasting mountains_.” This place, from its proximity to these +wonderful and impregnable barriers, and its central and salubrious +situation, will be found to be a most eligible station, from which the +stranger may make various and pleasant excursions, some of which will be +pointed out at the end of this article. The town is a square, inclosed +with embattled stone walls on three sides; the Castle defending it on the +South. In the West wall are two round Towers, and two others protecting +the Gate at that point, called by the Welsh _Porth-yr-aur_, where there +it a battery of 7 guns; three on the North, one on the N.E.; two +supporting the Eastern entrance, or _Porth-mawr_, and two to the S.E. +making in the whole twelve Towers. + +The town is well built, the streets being at right angles, with the +principal one, (the High Street). Near the Cross formerly stood the old +Town Hall, which continued many years in ruins, but it has lately been +re-built in a more specious and handsome manner, and is converted into a +commodious Market House, containing Butchers’ Shambles, Fish Stand, and +Corn Market; over these is a large room, which is made use of for the +boys of the National School, until the building now erecting shall be +completed; another containing at present a _Depot_ of Arms, and a smaller +one, where the gentlemen of the Savings Bank Committee, together with +their Clerk and Treasurer, sit from twelve till two o’clock every +Saturday, to receive the weekly deposits; this is a most excellent +institution, and ought to be universally known and encouraged. + +The Castle is founded on a rock, and is almost entire; the enter walls +are of dark grey hewn stone, (a species of lime stone) with an edging of +red ones at the corners and about the windows, as also in several +_fascias_, which gives it a handsome appearance. Edward I. built this +Castle in a singular and elegant style, (and probably the Town likewise, +on the site, and out of the ruins of one more ancient, and bearing the +same name {69}) with the revenue of the See of York, then vacant; a deep +narrow foss or ditch, which has been filled up some years, once defended +it on the North side, or in front, over which there was a drawbridge, +leading to the King’s or principal Gate, which had four Portcullises, and +was a grand and elegant entrance; above it stood the figure of the Royal +Founder, in the act either of drawing or sheathing his sword, probably +the latter, in allusion to the Welsh war being ended,—under his feet is a +defaced shield: this Gate leads into an oblong Court, originally divided +into two parts, the lower, or that end containing the Regal apartments, +seem to have been again protected by another Wall and Gateway, now +demolished. At the West end of this area is a Polygon Tower, with three +hexagon Turrets issuing from its top, on whose battlements were eagles, +one of which only now remains, (which is shamefully mutilated and +disfigured) whence it was called the Eagle Tower;—we have the authority +of Mr. Pennant for saying that the Eagle upon the top of this Tower is +with good reason supposed to be Roman, and that Edward found it at old +Segontium.—In a small room, within this Tower, eleven feet by seven, +Edward the Second is supposed to have been born, April 25th, 1284; a +passage separates it from a similar apartment, called the _nursery_.—The +correctness of this statement is however doubted by many, for if we may +be allowed to judge, from the small dimensions, and present gloomy and +uninviting appearance of this apartment, it does not seem probable, that +the Queen of England would select it for the place of her _accouchement_, +when other parts of the Castle afforded much superior accommodations; on +the other hand it may be objected, that she might have fixed upon it as +the place of greatest security and seclusion,—this however is certain, +that tradition, which is often correct, is in favor of the small room. + +From the top of the Eagle Tower, which most strangers ascend, the +traveller will be able to command a grand, varied and extensive view, +comprehending a great part of the Island of Anglesey, the Straits of the +Menai, Carnarvon Bay, St. George’s Channel, with the whole range of +Carnarvonshire Hills, from the Peaks of the Rivals, on the S.W. to the +huge Pen-maen-mawr, on the N.E. being about 36 miles in extent. On the +South side, next the River Seiont, are three Hexagon and three Octagon +Towers, and others on the North. On the East is a magnificent entrance, +called the Queen’s Gate, and through which she is supposed to have +entered, with a lofty round Arch and small Postern; leading to which +also, there was, no doubt, originally a draw-bridge, over the Moat, which +formed the communication between the Seiont and the brook Cadnant, or +present mill stream. These Towers communicate all round, by noble +galleries, and several of them are surrounded by smaller Towers, peculiar +to this and Conway Castle, which seem to have been the Architect’s two +_Chef d’œuvre_. In the North East Tower is a deep well, half filled up, +and this, or some other is said to have contained a dungeon, where it is +pretended a man being once let down to bring up a dog, found a hammer, +and that he saw a wooden door which he was afraid to open; the common +people have a tradition, that there was a subterraneous passage either +from this place or some other part of the Castle, to Coed Helen wood, on +the other side of the river. Some statements assert that this immense +Fortress was completed in one year; others, with more probability, assure +us that it was twelve years in building. Henry Ellerton, or de Elreton, +was appointed master mason, and perhaps was the Architect, and under him +must have been numbers of other skilful workmen. The Welsh peasants were +employed, no doubt, in waiting upon them, and supplying them with +materials, great part of which was brought from the ruins of Segontium, +and tradition says that much of the limestone, with which it is built, +was conveyed from Twr Kelyn, near Plas Newydd, in Anglesey, and of the +grit stone from Vaenol.—The Menai greatly facilitated the carriage from +both places. The exterior walls are in general about three yards in +thickness; and from its situation and strength, it seems to have been +well adapted to overawe the newly acquired subjects of its founder. + +This noble and venerable pile, from whatever point it is contemplated, or +at whatever distance it is viewed, forms a most interesting object, +particularly when it is considered that it was once the residence of +Royalty, and gave birth to the first Prince of Wales, of the English +line,—what wonder and astonishment must it not have excited in the minds +of the poor peasants, dwelling at the foot of Snowdon, and unused to see +any other habitations than their own humble dwellings, when beholding +this vast and magnificent Castle, advancing by slow degrees, to its +present height and magnitude. When it is considered that it has +withstood the shocks of more than five hundred winters, it seems +wonderful that it should still appear so perfect and entire; for what is +there that does not at last fade and decay, and yield by degrees to the +war of elements, and the siege of time: + + — The Tower, that long hath stood + The crash of Thunder, and the warring Winds, + Shook by the slow but sure destroyer—Time + Now hangs in doubtful ruins o’er its base; + And flinty pyramids, and walls of brass + Descend; the Babylonian Spires are sunk; + Achaia, Rome, and Egypt moulder down. + This huge rotundity, we tread grows old; + And all those Worlds that roll about the Sun, + The Sun himself shall die and ancient night, + Again involve the desolate Abyss. + +After this Monarch had subdued the Welsh, he began to secure his +conquests, by erecting several strong holds, in different parts of Wales, +and it appearing that Carnarvonshire, on account of its Mountains and +Morasses, was a County very likely to encourage insurrections, he +determined to guard as much as possible against such an event, by +erecting this and Conway Castle, two of the completest and strongest +Fortresses in the Principality, and perhaps not inferior to any in the +Kingdom. + +The reason generally assigned for the King’s conduct, in bringing his +beloved Queen, Eleanor, to such a distance, and at such an inclement +season of the year, (for it was in the winter) to lie in, is the +following: viz. that perceiving the Welsh remembered but too keenly the +oppressions of the English Officers, who in former reigns had been placed +over them, they peremptorily informed the King, that they were determined +not to yield obedience to any Prince, except one of their own nation; he +found it necessary to make use of an innocent artifice, and a pardonable +piece of policy: he therefore concealed his intentions for a time, and +secretly dispatched trusty messengers to the English Court, in order to +conduct the Queen into Wales; and it is related, that soon after the +birth of the young Prince, he summoned together the Welsh Nobles, and +persons of the greatest rank and influence in the Principality, and asked +them whether they would submit to be governed by a young man born in +Wales, and one who could not speak of word of English, and that when they +answered him in the affirmative, he presented to them his own son, saying +to them at the same time (as well as he could pronounce the words) _Eich +Dyn_, {74} _i.e._ this is your man—corrupted afterwards into ICH DIEN. +It ought however to have been previously mentioned, that the King was at +Rhuddlan Castle, during the Queen’s confinement, and we are informed by +Leland, that when Griffith Lloyd, of Tregarnedd in Anglesey, brought him +the joyful intelligence of the birth of a son, he was immediately +Knighted, and rewarded with one of the Manors of the Welsh Princes, +called Llys yn Dinorweg, in the Parish of Llanddeiniolen, now the +property of T. A. Smith, of Vaenol, Esq.—The first Governor of this +Castle, appointed by Edward, was John de Havering, with a salary of 200 +Marks; with which he was obliged to maintain constantly, besides his own +family, fourscore men, of which fifteen were to be cross-bowmen, one +Chaplain, one Surgeon, and one Smith; the rest were to do the duty of +keepers of the Gates, Centinels, and other necessary Officers. In 1289, +Adam de Wetenhall was appointed to the same important office. The +establishment for Town and Castle was as follows: The Constable of the +Castle had sometimes £60. at others only £40. The Captain of the Town +had £12. 3s. 4d. for his annual fee; but this office was sometimes +annexed to the former, and then Sixty was the Salary for both. The +Constable and the Captain had Twenty-four Soldiers allowed them for the +defence of the place, at the wages of fourpence per day each. This was +considered as the amount of the establishment during peace. The Porter +of the Gates of the Town had for his annual fee, £3. 10s. The following +are the only instances known, of this place having suffered by the +calamities of war, viz. in the great insurrection of the Welsh, under +Madoc, in 1294, when they surprised the Town, during the time of a Fair, +and put many English to the sword, got possession of this as well as +Conway Castle, and made themselves masters of all Anglesey. During the +rebellion of Owen Glyndwr, about the year 1404, Ieuan (Evan) ap Meredith, +of Eifionydd, and Meredith ap Hwlkyn Llwyd, of Glynn Llifon, had the +charge of the Town of Carnarvon, (as Sir John Wynne informs us), and an +English Captain defended the Castle; when the said Owen Glyndwr and his +party, in revenge at not being able to gain possession, burned Ievan ap +Meredith’s two houses, Cefn y Fann, and Kesail gyfarch. Captain Swanly, +a Parliamentarian Officer, took the Town, in 1644, made 400 prisoners, +and got a great quantity of arms, ammunition, and pillage. The Royalists +afterwards repossessed themselves of the place,—Lord Byron was appointed +Governor,—was besieged by General Mytton, in 1646, and yielded the place +on the most honorable terms. In 1648, the General himself, and Colonel +Mason, were besieged in it, by Sir J. Owen, who, hearing that Colonel +Carter and Colonel Twisselton were on the march to relieve the place, +drew a part of his forces from the siege, in order to attack them on the +way; the parties met at Dalar Hir, near Llandegai, Sir John was defeated, +and made prisoner; after which, all North Wales submitted to the +Parliament. + +After this concise History of the Castle, we shall now endeavour to give +a short description of the Town, within the walls, and then proceed to +the suburbs; the former consists principally of seven streets, viz. The +High Street, 2. King Street, or Castle Street, 3. Market Street, 4. Red +Lion, or Plas-mawr Street, 5. Black Boy Street, 6. Newgate Street, and 7. +Church Street; to which may be added, 8. _Pen y Deits_, or the head, or +end of the Ditch or Moat; 9. Hole in the Wall Street, and, 10. Pepper +Alley. + +The High Street, which is the handsomest, consists principally of Shops +and Lodging-houses, and has in its centre, (or rather at the entrance +into Market Street) the old Town Hall, and, present Market House, already +noticed; and at the upper or East end, over the Gateway called Porth +mawr, is the present Guild-Hall, formerly an Exchequer Office, it was +re-built in the year 1767, at the joint expence of Sir William Wynn, and +Sir John Wynn, Baronet, as appears by an inscription in front of it; in +the interior are handsome Portraits of each, as also of the late Earl of +Uxbridge, father of the present Marquis of Anglesey. Here the Member for +the Borough is elected; their present Representative is the Hon. Captain +Paget. This place is also used as an Assembly Room, where the Michaelmas +and other Balls, such as those given by the High Sheriff, during the +Assizes, and by Members at elections, are held; and in order to light it +up in a handsome manner, the late Lord Uxbridge presented the Corporation +with a beautiful glass lustre. + +The Corporation consists of a Mayor, who is as such Constable of the +Castle; (the appointment is by the King, and continues during +pleasure;—the Office is at present held by the Marquis of Anglesey), +Deputy-Mayor, appointed by the Mayor; Two Bailiffs and a Recorder, +elected annually by the Burgesses; Two Town-Stewards, Two Serjeants at +Mace, One Beadle, Four Sidesmen, and Four Constables, elected annually by +the Mayor and Bailiffs. These go in procession to St. Mary’s Chanel, +29th September, being Michaelmas-day, and after service return to the +Guild-Hall, to elect new Officers for the ensuing year, and admit new +Burgesses. There are Borough Courts held here every fortnight, to +transact business, and to hear and redress grievances; at the second +Court after Michaelmas-day, twelve of the Town Burgesses are sworn as a +Jury, whose business it is to perambulate the liberties of the Town, to +present nuisances and encroachments, as well as to see what repairs are +wanted, and to make a Report of the same. At one of these, the present +entrance to the Castle was presented for consideration, whether it would +not be adviseable to place it in repair, but from the opinion of an +eminent Barrister; who has been consulted on the occasion, it appears +that the Corporation have no authority so to do, the property being +vested in the King, as are also the Town Walls. + +High Street is terminated on the West by Porth yr aur, on the outside of +which is a very pleasant terrace walk, on the shore of the Menai, of +which it commends a full view; this and the Bangor road are considered +the two fashionable promenades, of the inhabitants. Edmund Griffith, of +Penrhyn, lived at Porth-yr-aur. Sir Rowland Brittayne, Constable of +Carnarvon Castle, married Agnes, sister to the above Edmund Griffith; +Rowland Griffith, of Carnarvon and Tref Arthen, was son of Sir William +Griffith.—This last attended Henry VIII. to France, as Lewis Môn, the +Welsh Bard, informs us in one of his Poems. So late as Fifty or Sixty +years ago, and for a long time prior to that period, several of the +principal families of this and the neighbouring County, had a Town House +at Carnarvon, where they generally used to spend the winter, and others +resided here constantly; most of these were persons possessed of good +incomes, and many of them kept their own carriages, had always a goad +table, and lived in the good old hospitable style of their ancestors, so +that when a gentleman happened to come into the town, if he had any +acquaintance with some of these families, he generally went to his +friend’s house, and not to an Inn. Carnarvon was not at that time become +such a commercial place as it is at present. These houses, and indeed +every gentleman’s residence, was then, and is still distinguished by the +name of _Plas_. The above short introduction was thought necessary in +order to notice some of these old Mansions, which have either been taken +down, deserted, or converted to other uses: Plas Issa, at one time the +property of the Coed Helen Family, and Porth yr aur, belonging to the +late Evan Lloyd, of Maes y Porth, Esq. were two old houses of this +description, at the lower end of this street, the one taken down, and the +other in ruins; Plas Bowman, between Church Street and Market Street, was +another, and in King’s Head Street, there is one still left, _Plas +Llanwnda_, where the proprietor, R. Garnons, Esq. resided for several +months in the winter; and with true gentlemanly politeness supports the +ancient credit of the House, for munificence and hospitality, and kind +attention to the wants of the poor. Quirt is another house in this +street, at one time belonging to the Williams’s of Quirt, in Anglesey, +and of Glan yr afon, in this County, which was made use of several years +as an Inn. In this Street also, at the back part of a public house, +called Glan yr afon, is an old building; supposed to have been at one +time either a Chapel belonging to the garrison, or to some private +family. Plas Spicer, in Church Street, is an old house which claims our +attention next, once belonging to a family of that name, but which has +long since been extinct. Plas Mawr, belonging to William Griffith, Esq. +a branch of the Vaenol and Penrhyn families, then resident at Trefarthen, +in Anglesey, and Plas Pilston, the present Red Lion, are the two last we +shall mention. There is a handsome Monument to the memory of the former +at Llanbeblig, which we shall notice when we come to describe that +Church, over the door are the following initials, W.G. M.G.—in another +part, J. G. M. G. date, 1590. With respect to the latter, it is +remarkable only on account of its antiquity, and the fate of its original +Proprietor, Sir Roger de Puleston, a distinguished favourite of Edward I. +He had been appointed Sheriff, and Keeper of the County of Anglesey, in +1284: what office he held here is uncertain; but being directed in 1294, +to levy the subsidy for the French war, a Tax the Welsh had never been +accustomed to, they took up Arms, and hanged De Pulesdon, and several of +his people. This was a signal for a general Insurrection,—Madoc, a +Relation of the late Prince Llywelyn, headed the people of this County. +Edward marched against them in person, and with great difficulty reduced +the country to submit again to his yoke. + +In Newgate Street, is the County Gaol, built about 18 or 20 years ago, by +Mr. Penson of Wrexham; it was then considered by much too large, but we +lament to say that at present it is frequently crowded; adjoining, but +fronting Ditch Street, is the County Hall, at the West end of which is +the Grand Jury Room, both spacious and commodious. In the former, over +the Bench, is the likeness of J. Garnons, Esq. at one time Prothonotary +on this Circuit; in the latter, that of Hugh Leycester, Esq. our highly +respected Chief Justice: a gentleman, who by his upright conduct, +inflexible integrity, just and impartial decisions, and deep legal +knowledge, has deservedly acquired a very high reputation in his +profession; and who by his politeness of manners, and affability of +demeanour, has justly endeared himself to the Inhabitants of this part of +the Principality, and particularly to the Gentlemen of this County, who +wishing to retain among them the resemblance of the person whom they so +highly esteem and respect, and with whom they have been in the habit of +friendly intercourse for many years, have requested him to sit for his +picture, the expence of which was defrayed by voluntary Contributions; +from the eagerness to come forward on the occasion, the Subscription was +completed in a very short time, besides leaving a handsome surplus in the +hands of the Committee, who gave £20 of it to the Widows and Orphans of +those who perished in the Brig Elizabeth, which was upset and lost early +last year, near Carnarvon Bar; the remainder is placed in the Bank, to be +appropriated to the first charitable purpose that offers. Adjoining the +Grand Jury Room are the Offices of the Prothonotary and Clerk of the +Peace, and near to these, outside of the walls, at the extremity of the +Quay or Pier, is the Custom-House, a substantial and convenient modern +Building. + +St. Mary’s Chapel, is situated on the North West, of the Town, adjoining +one of the Towers of the Wall: it is represented by most authors, as +having originally been built for the use of the Garrison, and to have +afterwards been claimed by the Corporation. Some years ago, either the +Curate, or the Clerk by his direction, used to go about the town at +Easter, to collect Donations and Subscriptions, for performing English +Service, in this Chapel. It is now generally called the Town Church, and +is served by the Vicar of Llanbeblig. It was rebuilt in the year 1812, +(with the exception of the old arches) partly by Subscription, assisted +by the Corporation, who annually let a number of Pews as their property. +The Marquis of Anglesey presented them with an excellent Organ, which is +considered a very fine toned Instrument. + +The Suburbs, or Town without the Walls, consists of the following +Streets: viz. Porth-mawr Street; the Bank or Dock Quay, where there are +several good brick houses; Y Pendist, or Turf Square; Crown Street; +Bangor Street; Old Boot Street: North Pen yr allt, or Toot-Hill Street; +South Pen yr allt, formerly called, Stryd y Priciau Saethu; Pont Bridd, +or Bridge Street; Stryt y Llyn, or Pool Street; Treffynon, or Holywell; +Tre’r Gof, or Smithfield; Skinners Lane; Y Maes Glas, or Green; and the +Green Gate Street. + +Carnarvon is greatly improved, and considerably enlarged within these +last thirty years;—at the entrance from Bangor, the Uxbridge Arms Hotel, +a large, handsome, and commodious Inn, was built by the late Lord +Uxbridge, which is kept by Mr. George Bettiss, and where the Traveller +will meet with every attention and civility, and will find the +accommodations excellent, and the charges reasonable.—Within the same +period was erected that handsome row of houses called the Green, +terminated on the East side by the Goat Inn, built by Thomas Jones, Esq., +of Bryntirion, who is the proprietor thereof; here also the Stranger will +meet with every attention, and where the accommodations are good, and the +charges moderate. In front of these houses there was a high bank, some +years ago, which, besides intercepting the view, was very inconvenient to +ascend and descend, particularly at the time of fairs, which are held +here; this was removed about four years ago, partly by Subscription, but +chiefly at the expence of the Parish and Corporation, who employed the +Poor during those dear Times, in removing the earth, and wheeling it down +to the Quay, which also was erected about eighteen years ago, and has +lately been extended, and rendered more spacious and convenient, so that +it now affords every facility and accommodation to Vessels loading and +unloading. The Slate Quarries, (as has before been observed) are the +chief sources of the Wealth and Commerce of this County; and in these, +thousands of the Inhabitants, are constantly employed; and scores, if not +hundreds of Waggons and Carts are engaged in bringing down the +productions of the Quarries to this Town, where they are shipped to +various parts of the World. The average annual Amount of Exports from +Port of Carnarvon, is at present, about £50,000, but there is every +reason to suppose, that, were Rail-roads formed from the several Slate +Quarries in the neighbourhood, the Export Trade would be very much +increased; as then a supply of Sates might always be secured on the +Quays; whereas now, from the uncertainty of such supply, and the +consequent delay, proprietors and masters of Vessels are unwilling to +expose themselves to the risque of incurring a heavy expence, in waiting +their turn to load; this operates more particularly on large Vessels, +their expences being heavy, in proportion to their size; and it is +certain, that many Americans and other foreigners, are deterred by these +circumstances from coming to this Port for Slate. + +The long desired Light on Bardsey Island, the establishment of which is +now decided on, and which it is intended by the Corporation of Trinity +House, shall be exhibited in the ensuing Autumn, is likely to prove of +incalculable benefit; not only to the Coasting Trade of this and the +neighbouring Ports, but to Trade in general. + +Steam Packets might be established between Carnarvon and Dublin. At +times when the tide might not answer for landing at the Town, on account +of the difficulty of passing the Bar, they would always find a safe and +commodious landing place at Llanddwyn Point, about seven miles distant +from Carnarvon; with the capability of a good Carriage Road to the Town +being made, at a small expence. The late improvements at Llanddwyn, have +rendered it particularly eligible for the above purpose, the Trustees of +Carnarvon Harbour having erected a Breakwater, and Beacon, for the safety +and comfort of Navigators. The distance from Carnarvon to Capel Curig, +through the beautiful and romantic Pass of Llanberis, is eighteen miles; +from Holyhead, by Bangor Ferry forty-two miles: The traveller would +therefore save twenty-four miles, by adopting the former line. + +This Town is capable of much improvement, as a place of resort for +strangers, particularly in the Summer season; at which period, it is even +now visited by many, but from the want of sufficient comfortable +accommodation, and other conveniences to induce them to remain, a weekly, +nay almost a daily change is observable, in a continued succession of +visitors. Were comfortable Lodging Houses erected, with Baths attached, +(which might be done with much ease) and the shore cleared, at certain +convenient points, with public Machines, and Attendants, there is little +doubt of this delightfully situated Town, becoming in a short time a +favourite Watering Place, and consequently, improving rapidly. + +Edward I. bestowed on Carnarvon its first Royal Charter, and made it a +free Borough: among other privileges, none of the Burgesses could be +convicted of any crime committed between the Rivers Conway and Dyfi, +unless by a Jury of their own Townsmen. The representative of the place +is elected by its Burgesses, and those of Conway, Pwllheli, and +Crickaeth; the right of voting is in every one, resident, or +non-resident, admitted to their Freedom. Bondsmen in former times, +living in the Town a year and a day, and paying scot and lot, gained +their liberty, and in those days Jews were not permitted to reside here. +The first member was John Puleston; and the second time it sent +representatives, (which was the 1st Edward VI) it chose Robert Puleston, +and the County elected John, as if both Town and County determined to +make reparation to the family, for the cruelty practised on their +ancestor. It gives the title of Marquis to James Brydges, Lord Chandos; +and that of Earl, to Henry Herbert, Baron Porchester, who was created a +Baron Oct. 17, 1780, and advanced to the Earldom June 29, 1793. Leland, +who travelled through this County, in the time of Henry VIII. makes the +following observation, with regard to the situation of Carnarvon, in his +Itinerary, “Cadnant brook, rising three miles off, cometh through the +Town Bridge of Caernarvon, and goeth by itself into the Menai area, so +that Caernarvon standeth betwixt two Rivers, both coming into the said +straits of the Menai.” + +In this Parish there are 700 Houses assessed for Poor’s Rate, 517 of +which are in the Town; adding to these the number of families excused +from poverty, and those who receive parochial Relief, it may reasonably +be inferred, that the Population of Carnarvon is about 6000, exclusive of +Mariners. There needs no other observation on the salubrity of the air, +than the following extract from the Report of the Select Vestry of +Carnarvon, in 1819:—“Among those who receive Parochial Relief, are 19, +aged from 80 to 90 years; 28, from 70 to 80; 42, from 60 to 70; and 39, +from 50 to 60.” + +In the Town are the following Dissenting Chapels, a Presbyterian Chapel +in Bangor Street,—the Calvinist’s at Pen yr allt,—the Wesleyans’ in +Smithfield, or Tre’r gof, and the Baptists’ at Treffynon. There are five +Fairs held annually at Carnarvon, viz. March 12th, May 16th, August 12th, +September 20, and December 5. + +The following beautiful Stanzas, appeared in the North Wales Gazette, +November 27, 1812, signed JUNIUS, which may not be thought out of place +here; they were written by Mr. B. Brocas, at that time residing in this +Town: + + Does thy Harp, O Cambria, Slumber? + Are thy sainted Bards no more? + Once it breath’d a sweeter number + Than e’er sigh’d round Scylla’s shore. + + Where are now those magic wonders, + Which its touch could once inspire? + Where thy Minstrels’ martial thunders, + Glanc’d from hands and lips of fire. + + Are thy glories sunk for ever, + Are they set to rise no more? + Must we henceforth hail them never, + On this muse-deserted shore? + + Yes! prophetic Science hear’s me, + Thus bewail her ancient seat, + Lifts her spoil crown’d head, and cheers me, + Echoing thus the cry of fate:— + + “Thy bless’d shade, O Taliesin! + Waft on soft Elysian gales, + To impart thy heav’n-taught lesson, + To some favour’d child of Wales. + + “Let Thy Spirit hover o’er him, + Strike him with thy hallow’d fire: + Prostrate nations shall adore him, + Deck’d with Thy immortal lyre. + + “Thus shall Cambria once more flourish, + High, as e’er in times of yore; + And her sacred soil, still nourish + Heav’n born bards for evermore.” + +We cannot quit this place without informing the stranger, (if he be not +already aware of the circumstance) that a Society has been lately +established here, as well as in the other Divisions of the Principality, +which has been denominated the “_Cymmrodorion Society in Gwynedd_;” and +whose object is the preservation of Ancient British Literature,—Poetical, +Historical, Antiquarian, Sacred, and Moral, and the encouragement of +National Music. The term Cymmrodorion has been adopted, (as specified by +the Members of the Committee in Powys) more particularly out of respect +to an ancient Society of that name, established in London, 1751, under +the Patronage of his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. An Eisteddfod, +or Congress of Bards, was held at Carmarthen, July 8, 1819, under the +sanction of Lord Dynevor, and the Bishop of St. David’s; and another at +Wrexham, September 13, 1820, under the Patronage of Sir W. W. Wynne. A +similar Meeting is to take place at Carnarvon, sometime in the course of +the ensuing Autumn, when our greatly esteemed and highly respected Lord +Lieutenant, Viscount Warren Bulkeley, it is hoped will preside. Several +Meetings have already been held, a Committee formed, and regulations made +in order to promote its success, and ensure a full attendance. + +Old Segontium occupies the summit of a hill, about a quarter of a mile to +the South East of the present Town, and is intersected by the road +leading to Bethgelert; its ancient British name was Caer Sallawg: {91} it +is about 150 yards in length, and 100 wide; some remains of the Roman +Walls are still visible, (now covered with Ivy) particularly near the +South East corner. Some years back there appeared the remnant of a +building, made with tiles, and plaistered with very hard and smooth +mortar; this is supposed to have been part of a _Hypocaust_. The mortar +in all other parts is very hard, and mixed with much gravel, and sand. +This ancient Station forms an oblong of very considerable extent, +seemingly from four to six Acres. Camden suspects that this might have +been the _Setantiorum_, Porlus of Ptolemy being willing to read it +_Segontiorum_, but the situation of the former is certainly at the mouth +of the Ribble. He is most probably right, in supposing it to have been, +in after times, named Caer Cwstenin, or the Castle of Constantine; and +that _Hugh Lupus_, who certainly invaded Anglesey, in 1098, had here a +temporary post. Mathew of Westminster asserts, (but upon what authority +is not mentioned) that Constantius, father of Constantine, was interred +here, and that Edward caused the body to be taken up, and honourably +reburied in the Church, (probably of St. Publicius). Mr. Rowlands in his +history of Anglesey says, that Helen, the supposed mother of this reputed +Saint had a Chapel {92} here, which, he tells us, was in being in his +days. Near the steep Bank of the Seiont, about one hundred yards from +the end of Pool Street, and divided by the road leading to Clynnog and +Pwllheli, are the ruins of a Roman Fort, connected, no doubt, with Old +Segontium, and intended, as it is conjectured, to protect the landing +from the river.—On two sides the walls are pretty entire, one is +seventy-four yards long, the other sixty-four; height ten feet eight +inches, thickness six feet. A great part of the facing is taken away, +which discovers the peculiarity of the Roman masonry; it consists of +regular courses, the others have the stones disposed in zigzag fashion. +Along the walls are three parallel lines of round holes, not three inches +in diameter (nicely plaistered within) which pass through the whole +thickness. There are other similar holes, which are discovered in the +end of the Wall, and some to run through it lengthways. There are +various conjectures respecting the use for which these were intended, the +most probable is, that they were for the purpose of holding the +scaffolding, which were supported, it is likely, by cylindrical iron +bars, and when taken out, the air was admitted to harden the mortar, +which was poured into the work in a liquid state. Near one corner, some +years ago, the foundation of a round Tower was discovered; it was paved, +and in it were found the horn of a deer, and skeletons of some lesser +animals. There were similar ruins on the opposite shore, and within +these few years, in scouring the channel of the river, large pieces of a +curious old foot Bridge were discovered, supposed to have been Roman.—A +gold coin, of about seventeen shillings weight, was found here, inscribed +T. DIVI AVG FIL AVGVSTVS. And a small one, of mixed metal, with a head, +and the following legend on one side: ANTONINVS AVG PIVS P P TR. P. XXII. +on the other a female figure, leading a small animal with her right hand, +and holding a spear in her left, and the following letters, SALVTI AVG +COS IIII. And a stone with the following Letters, continued for many +years, in a wall near the road, about the centre of Segontium, and which +has lately disappeared, S V C supposed by some to mean, Segontium urbs +Constantine. Cadwallon, one of the Princes of Wales, about A.D. 620, (on +account of Anglesey being infested by the Irish and Pictish Rovers) +removed the British Court from Aberffraw, where it had been placed about +200 years before, by Caswallon law hir, to Segontium. The Roman road +from Segontium to Dinorwig, and thence to Cornovium, was visible on a +part of Rhos Bodrual, till within these few years, when that part of the +Common was cultivated. + +The Mother or Parish Church of Carnarvon, called Llanbeblig, is situated +about one hundred yards beyond, or to the East of old Segontium, and +according to our Historians, is dedicated to St. Publicius, Son of Macsen +Wledig, (Maximus the Tyrant) and his Wife Helen, Daughter of Endef, Duke +of Cornwal.—It is said that he retired from the World, and took a +religious habit. Richard II. bestowed this Church, and the Chapel at +Carnarvon, on the Nuns of St. Mary’s, in Chester, in consideration of +their poverty; and in the recital of another Charter of the same Prince, +it is mentioned that his Grandfather, Edward III. had bestowed on those +Religious, the Advowson of Llangathen, in Carmarthenshire; both which on +the Dissolution, were annexed to the See of Chester, and remain to this +day, under the Patronage of the Bishop of that Diocese. In a recess to +the North of the Communion Table, is an elegant Altar Tomb, with the +following inscription: Here lieth the body of William Griffith, Esq. the +Son of William Griffith, Knight, who died Nov. 28, 1587, and Margaret his +Wife, Daughter of John Wynne ap Meredith, Esq. who built this Tomb, 1593. +{95}—Their figures are in white Marble, lying on a mat, admirably carved; +he is in armour, she has on a short quilled ruff, and ruffles at her +wrists, in a long gown, and a sash around her waist. And in the +Churchyard, some years ago, was the following, which it may be useful to +preserve, as it is very probable that a house in this neighbourhood, _Cae +Bold_, took its name from this family:—Here lyeth the body of Ellin Bold, +Daughter of William Bold, Esq. and Wife to John Ranshcraf, of Breton, +Gent. who died 1st day of April, 1663. And near it the following: Here +lyeth interred the body of John Smyth, of Carnarvon, the elder, who died +the 23d day of May, A.D. 1645. In the late Mr. Foxwist’s pew, in the +said Church, on a brass plate, is the following inscription; + + In quo præ multis, scribend i gloria fulsit, + Ricardus Foxwist, hic pede tritus adest, + Annus Christi tutus fuit M.D: luce patrici + Dum tenet expirans, vulnera quinque tua; + Corporis atque tui, tandem pars, aditur alt’ra, + Dum conjux uno, clauditur in tumulo, + Hæcque Johanna fuit, ac _Spicer_ nata Johanne; + Pauperibus larga, justa, pudica; fuit, + +Several pleasant excursions may be recommended to the Tourist, whilst +resident at Carnarvon: 1st. He may either cross the Strait by the +Carnarvon Ferry, called Tal y Foel, and examine Newborough, (once the +seat of our ancient Princes) and that part of the Anglesey coast, or, +engage a boat, and sail down to Aber Menai; visit the Barracks, called by +the Welsh Y Belan, and proceed from thence to the once celebrated +Peninsula of Llanddwyn, which, though in the time of Edward III. it +contained only eight small houses, (then called _Weles_,) yet in the +reign of Henry VIII. was one of the richest Prebends in the Cathedral of +Bangor; its wealth arose not from the real fertility of the place, but +from the superstition of the common people—from pilgrimages to crosses, +reliques, Holy wells, ordeals, and what Mr. Rowlands calls +_ichthuomania_, or divination from Fishes.—In the time of Owen Glyndwr, +one Yorwerth Vychan, Rector of Llanddoged, made pretentions to the +Offerings, and sacrilegiously seized on them; but Griffith le Yonge, +Chancellor to that Chieftain, interfered, and by a decree of his, put a +stop to the invasion of the rights of the place: Here are still visible +the ruins of the old Church, dedicated to St. Dwywen, Daughter of +Brychan, one of the holy _Colidei_, or primitive Christians of Britain, +who distinguished themselves by living in seclusion and retirement.—Near +it are some of the remains of the prebendal house:—The first appears to +have been no inelegant building; the last is noted for the residence of +Richard Kyffin, Rector of this place, and Dean of Bangor, before +mentioned. The Barracks, above alluded to, were created about 35 or 40 +years ago, by the late Lord Newborough, of Glyn Llifon, when he was +Colonel of the Militia of this County, for the accommodation of the men +when called out on permanent duty. + +Some of the Inhabitants of Carnarvon are frequently employed in fishing, +during the greatest part of the year, both in the Menai and Carnarvon +Bay; the fish principally taken are the following, viz. Cod, Turbot, +Soles, Salmon, Mullet, Bream, Ray, &c. all excellent in their kind; +Oysters are also taken on the Anglesey coast. There is a small Creek, or +Harbour near the point of Llanddwyn, where vessels frequently put in to +await the return of the Tide. A red and a black Buoy, and also a Perch, +have been placed near the entrance of Carnarvon Bar, for the direction of +Navigators. The Botanist, Naturalist, Sailor, or Sportsman, would find +sufficient employment, and meet with considerable amusement during a +short voyage of this description, as there are varieties of Shells on the +sea shore, some scarce Plants on the rocks, and Rabbits in the sand +banks. The Straits of the Menai have frequently been the scene of many a +bloody encounter between the Welsh, Irish; Danes, &c. and the reader may +not probably be displeased with our introducing here, a part of Gray’s +spirited version of the Rev. Evan Evans’s translation of Gwalchmai’s Ode, +{98a} celebrating the victory of Prince Owen Gwynedd, over three fleets +of Irish, Danish, and Norman Pirates, at Tal y Foel, nearly opposite +Carnarvon, on the Anglesey Coast, about the year 1158: “Ardwyrëaf hael o +hil Rodri,” &c. + + Owen’s praise demands my Song, + Owen swift and Owen strong,— + Fairest flower of Roderick’s stem,— + Gwynedd’s shield, and Britain’s gem: + He nor heaps his brooded stone, + Nor on all profusely pours; + Lord of every regal art, + Liberal hand, and open heart. + + Big with hosts of mighty name, + Squadron’s three against him came; + This the force of Erin hiding, + Side by side as proudly riding; + On her shadow, long and gay + Lochlin plows the wat’ry way: + There, the Norman sails afar, + Catch the winds, and join the war; + Black and huge along they sweep, + Burthens of the angry deep. + + Dauntless on his native sands, + The Dragon {98b} son of Mona stands, + In glittering arms and glory drest, + High he rears his ruby crest. + There the thund’ring strokes begin, + There the press, and there the din; + _Tal y Moelfre’s_ {98c} rocky shore + Echoing to the battle’s roar; + Check’d by the torrent tide of blood, + Backward _Menai_ rolls his flood; + While heap’d the Hero’s feet around, + Prostrate warriors gnaw the ground: + Where his glowing eye-balls turn, + Thousand banners round him burn; + Where he points his purple spear, + Hasty, hasty rout is there; + Marking with indignant eye, + Fear to stop, and shame to fly: + There Confusion, Terror’s child, + Conflict fierce, and Ruin wild, + Agony, that pants for breath, + Despair, and honourable death. + +The next expedition we shall recommend is a visit to the Llanllyfni Slate +Quarries, and the Nantlle (or as they were formerly called the Bala +Deulyn) Lakes, then proceed by Drws y Coed, to the Bethgelert road, and +return by Quellyn Lake and Bettws Village to Carnarvon. Part of this +rout, particularly from the Quarries to the main road, leading from +Carnarvon to Bethgelert, will not admit of a four-wheeled Carriage, and +it would be difficult to take even a Gig along that portion of it. The +whole of this circuit, as before described, round the huge Mynydd-mawr, +(a mountain which forms so remarkable a feature in the landscape from +Carnarvon) will make a distance probably of about one and twenty miles. +Persons who may be induced to examine this interesting part of the +County, would do well to hire ponies at Carnarvon, and set off after an +early breakfast; they would then be able to return by three or four +o’clock. The first part of the journey, for two miles and a half, is +along the Pwllheli road; about that distance, (a few yards beyond a small +bridge) the turn on the left must be taken, afterwards the Slate Carts +(of which the stranger will meet with a great number) will be a +sufficient direction. It is thought necessary to mention these +particulars, as there are neither mile stones nor finger posts to point +the way, and but few of the country people understand the English +language; the stranger would therefore act wisely to engage a good +intelligent guide, well recommended by some gentleman resident at +Carnarvon. Pont Seiont (above and below which the Scenery is very +beautiful) is a bridge within a short mile of the town, and between which +and Pont Newydd, (another bridge over the River Gwyrfai, a mile further,) +there is a Manor belonging to the Bishop of Bangor, called _Castellmai_, +the principal Freeholders in which, 1647, were the following, as appears +by the Extent Book: Dr. Williams, late Archbishop of York, W. Glynn, Esq. +John Bodvell, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. John Robins, Esq. William Spicer, +Esq. Sir W. Williams, Bart. Richard Prytherch, Esq.; Parish of +Llanfaglan, ditto, John Bodvell, Esq. Wm. Foxwist, Esq. Thomas Glynn, +Esq. Hugh Griffith, Esq. Richard Prytherch, Esq. John Robins, Esq.: +Llanwnda Parish,—William Foxwist, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. Thomas Williams, +Esq. and Thomas Glynn, Esq. + +There is a called Gwaredog, a little to the S.E. of the last mentioned +bridge, which is celebrated (according to our Welsh Pedigrees) as the +birth-place of the renowned Patrick, the Patron Saint of the Irish; has +genealogy is thus given, in Bonedd y Saint, published in the Myvyrian +Archaiology: Padric Sant ap Alfryd ap Gronwy ap Gwdion ap Dôn o Waredawg +yn Arvon. Several other places contend for this honor, such as +Abergwaun, or Fishguard, in Pembrokeshire; Ystrad Clwyd, (or Clyde’s +Dale) in Scotland, and several places in Ireland. The river _Gorfai_ is +the boundary between the two Commots of Uwch and Is-Gorvai, in the +Hundred or Cantrev of Arvon. About half a mile beyond Pont Newydd, on +the right, is Dinas Dinoethny, the residence of Captain Jones.—This +appears to have been one of the principal Roman Encampments in this +neighbourhood, and to have had several small out-posts connected with it, +which was the case also with Dinas Dinlle, a remarkable _tumulus_, or +eminence, on the sea-coast, about two miles further, as well as with +Craig y Dinas, on the river Llyfni, and Dinorwig, in the parish of +Llanddeiniolen, before mentioned; a list of which, together with the +subordinate Posts, connected with them, we shall hereafter insert. About +a quarter of a mile beyond Dinas Dinoethwy, on the right, is Llanwnda, a +small Church, dedicated to _St. Gwyndaf_. The Rectorial Tithes are +annexed to the Headship of Jesus College, Oxford, and the small Vicarage, +which is discharged and consolidated with the Chapel of Llan Faglan, +dedicated to St. Baglan, situated near Aber menai, is in the Patronage of +the Bishop of Bangor. The population of Llanwnda, in 1801, was 826, and +of Llan Faglan 102. Near a small bridge, (as before-mentioned) called +Glann y Rhyd, the Tourist will follow the left hand road until he arrives +within a mile of the village of Llanllyfni, when he will again turn on +the left, near a smithy, and proceed towards the Slate Quarries; and he +will soon perceive, when he enters this little vale, that the Scenery +here, as well as in most parts of North Wales, unfolds its beauty +gradually as the traveller advances, until at last it displays itself in +all its grandeur and magnificence. This Defile is bounded on the South +and East by mountains of considerable height and magnitude, which assume +a variety of shapes and characters as we proceed. It was from this +narrow vale, which is but little known to strangers, that Wilson took his +celebrated view of Snowdon, which has been so much and so deservedly +admired; the situation was probably near the Nantlle Lakes, where Edward +I. in the summer of 1284, resided for some days; and from thence issued +several of his Edicts, some dated July 17, and others the 20th, and one +from Carnarvon, as late as the 22nd of October in the same year, which +shews what attention he paid to the establishment of governments in his +new Dominions. The place which he occupied here during that time, was +called Bala {103} Deulyn, and had been in the possession of the +descendants of the Welsh Princes, ever since the time of Owen Gwynedd, as +appears from authorities mentioned in Sir John Wynne’s History of the +Gwydir Family, to which we have before alluded. + +The principal Slate Quarries (which are near these lakes) are the Cilgwyn +and Havodlas; here there is a Steam Engine, to supply the place of +another, which lately fell into the quarry, and was broke; they are +situated in the Parish of Llandwrog, (which we soon shall have occasion +to notice in our progress to Clynog) and their produce is conveyed to +Carnarvon. The variation in the size of the Slates took place about 75 +years ago; before that time, they were all nearly of the same dimensions, +and very small; but a larger sort having been introduced, it became +necessary, for the sake of distinction, to give them a new name, and +being _doubled_ in size, and also in price, they were denominated +_Doubles_, and one thousand of these were considered and accounted by the +Workmen as equal to _two_ thousand; the first sort was therefore +distinguished by the name of _Singles_.—Some time after, another sort was +introduced, increasing still in size, so as to double those called +_doubles_, and were therefore called _Double doubles_, and the men +counted every thousand of these as four thousand: afterwards a still +larger sort was found necessary, and General Warburton, the proprietor of +the Penrhyn Estate, being in the country about that time, is said to have +given these last, the honorable name of _Countesses_; and the former, +viz. the double doubles, he denominated _Ladies_; since that time two +others of still greater magnitude have been added, which are +distinguished by the names of _Duchesses_ and _Queens_. The colour of +these States, as well as those of Cefn Du, in the Parishes of Llanbeblig +and Llanrug, though of an equally good, if not better quality, differ a +little from those of Cae Braich y Cafn, or Mr. Pennant’s Quarry, the +former being either of a brown cast, or red tinge, while the latter are +of a dark blue. Some of the Welsh have supposed that an ancient prophecy +of Merddyn ap Morvran, (or Merlinus Caledonius) received its +accomplishment when these Quarries were discovered, and so many men +employed, viz. That the time would come, when the rocks of Carnarvonshire +would be converted into bread. It is to be regretted that the +proprietors of these numerous Slate Quarries, do not unite together, and +form a good Iron Rail Road, or tram-way, to Carnarvon, which though it +may be attended with great expence in the execution, would eventually be +productive of considerable advantage to the adventurers.—And as we are +upon this subject, we cannot help lamenting another circumstance which +proves a considerable diminution of the benefits arising from these +sources of support and employment to the labouring Poor, viz. that so +many accidents, by the sudden explosions of charges of Gunpowder, the +falling of Stones, rubbish, and fragments of Rocks, &c. and breaking of +ropes, whereby many of the workmen are lamed and maimed, and others lose +their sight, and thus become chargable to different Parishes. It would +be desirable therefore, to have a Fund for the relief of these poor +sufferers; and for this purpose, the Proprietors, or their Agents, might +easily establish a Club, or Friendly Society, towards which they should +contribute liberally, themselves, and also make such an arrangement, that +a small sum should be allotted, either weekly or monthly, from the wages +of the Labourers, towards their support when incapacitated, either by +casualties or illness, from following their usual occupation; and also +for the purpose of procuring medical advice. + +Llanllyfni, before mentioned, is a small Village on the road to +Crickaeth, Penmorva, and Tremadoc.—It is a discharged Rectory, valued in +the King’s Books at £7 17_s._ 6_d._ and dedicated to St. Rhediw, a Saint +(says Mr. W. Owen Pughe) whose history is not known; he is supposed to +have been buried here; and his well, his seat, the print of his Horse’s +foot, and the mark of his Thumb on a Stone, are still pretended to be +shewn. Near the upper end of this narrow pass are some Copper Mines, +where some few workmen are employed, but the Vein is small, and the +quantity of Ore hitherto obtained, though of a good quality, has been +very inconsiderable. + +The curious Visitor of these mountainous districts, will be induced, no +doubt, before he descends into the Bethgelert road, to call at +Drws-y-coed, a mountain Farm, near which, in a small Lake, known by the +name of _Llyn y Dywarchen_, is the celebrated Floating Island, mentioned +by Giraldus, and which he denominates _insula erratica_; what is +dignified with the name of Island, is merely a considerable portion of +the Turbery ground, on the side of this small Pool, undermined, and torn +off, and adhering together by the entangling of the Roots, of such Plants +as generally grow on Bogs and Morasses. Here may be found the Nymphœa +lutea & alba, or yellow and white Water Lily, (and other Aquatic Plants) +which are not uncommon in most of the Lakes in the vicinity of Snowdon. +If the Traveller be so disposed, and the weather favourable, he will here +have an opportunity of ascending Snowdon, from the Guide’s House, near +Cawellyn (Quellyn) Lake; from whence there is a tolerable Horse Path till +within a quarter of a mile of the apex, made for the purpose of bringing +down Copper Ore from Bwlch glas, a gap, or opening between the two +summits of Snowdon. This and the one along the side of Cwm Brwynog, in +the Parish of Llanberris, (which we shall hereafter more particularly +describe) are considered the two easiest and safest ascents; and along +either of which, any person, who is a tolerable horseman, may ride a +Welsh Pony, as far as the spot above mentioned. + +We shall now conduct the Stranger to the Village of Llanberis, which on +account of its singular situation, at the end of a Lake, in a narrow +Vale, nearly at the foot of Snowdon, is well worth his attention. The +distance from Carnarvon is about ten miles; the first five of which, so +far as a place called Cwm y Glo, (though rough, uneven, and greatly +injured by the Slate Carts) will admit of a Carriage; and from thence a +Boat may be engaged. After travelling about a mile and a half from +Carnarvon, we obtain a view of the River Seiont, and having proceeded +along its banks a short way, we cross it, over a handsome Arch, built in +1769, by one Henry Parry, as appears by a stone in the Battlement, and +where he is underservedly denominated the modern _Inigo_: afterwards we +turn to the left; on an eminence to the right, at a little distance from +the road, is Llanrug, {108} a small Church, dedicated to St. Michael, and +formerly called Llanfihangel yn Rûg. Some years ago, the following +little Sonnet was written on beholding this small structure, after a few +weeks absence: + + Oft as yon Fane presents its simple form; + That small shrill Bell, that duly tolls aloud + Each day of rest,—to call the rustic croud; + Yon aged Yew-tree, bending with the storm; + The thought recurs—that by indulgent Heaven, + This humble flock, to feed with constant care, + Their morals form, and truths divine declare, + To me unworthy, has the charge been given. + Then let me still, their faithful Pastor prove, + By precepts teach, and bright example lead + My flock the upward road, to bliss; and read + With fervor due His word, whose name is _Love_! + When thus my work is finish’d, and my race is run, + That Great, Good Shepherd may pronounce “well done.” + +The extent of the Parish is about five miles in length, and two in +breadth: the number of Inhabited Houses in 1811, was 158, and of +Inhabitants, 682.—It is a small Rectory, and valued in the King’s Books +at £5 12_s._ 6_d._ When arrived at the foot of a Hill, the road to the +left must be taken, which leads to Cwm y Glo before mentioned, consisting +of a group of Cottages, in a snug romantic situation, greatly and +deservedly admired; and near them a small Harbour, for Boats employed in +fishing, and bringing down Slate and Copper Ore.—On the top of the Hill, +before we descend to this place, there is a circular Rock on the left, +strongly fortified, which was probably a subordinate post to Dinas +Dinlle, Dinas Dinoethwy, and Dinas Dinorwig, before mentioned, and which +being at the entrance of this narrow pass, served to communicate any +signal to Dolbadern Castle, which is situated on a Rock between the two +Lakes, and from whence again, any notice, or intelligence of an enemy’s +approach, was conveyed to the upper end of the Vale, and so on to Capel +Curig, Dolwyddelen, &c. From this Rock there is a most grand and +magnificent view, which on account of its opening suddenly and +unexpectedly, has the effect of enchantment. Snowdon seems to soar in +proud pre-eminence, and to look down upon the surrounding subject Hills +with conscious superiority; some of which however, such as Erlidir, Garn, +and Glydair, on the left, (or North of the Vale) Crib Goch, and Carnedd +Higgon, on the right, appear to rival their Majestic Lord. This grand +scenery,—this wonderful display of the works of the Most High, appears +again to great advantage, as we enter the Lake from the channel of the +River; but before we proceed, it will be proper to give a short account +of a very extra ordinary personage, (_Margaret ferch Evan_,) who lived +near this place, and denominated by Mr. Pennant, Queen of the Lakes.—He +observes further, that when he visited her Cottage, at Penllyn, in 1786, +she was about ninety years of age, and says, that she was the last +specimen of the strength and spirit of the ancient British Fair; but the +correctness of this remark may justly be doubted, as there is a Female, +(Catherine Thomas) now living at Cwm glas, (about a mile above the Church +of Llanberis) who is by no means inferior to Mr. P’s Heroine, either in +strength or agility: the following anecdote related by herself, may be +mentioned as an instance of her uncommon courage; some years age, as she +was one day watching her Sheep on one of the Rocks near her house, she +perceived a Stranger, (to all appearance a very strong, lusty man) enter +in, and having remained there a short time, he departed; Catherine +hastened home, and having examined her Cottage; she discovered that the +Stranger had stolen a Silk Handkerchief, and several other articles of +wearing Apparel; she immediately pursued him, and having taken in her +hand the post of a small gate or wicket, and taking a shorter path, she +overtook him near Gorphwysfa, almost at the upper end of the pass, (a +most lonely situation) and having laid hold of him with one hand, she +shook him well, in order to convince him of her strength, and then struck +him with the club, or rather post, that was in the other, saying at the +same time, You villain! how dare you enter into my house and steal my +property? she then took from him his Wallet, and adding, Let me see what +thou hast got in this bag? then emptying the contents, she took up her +own property, and after giving him one or two more hard strokes, she +charged him at his peril, never to enter that Vale again, otherwise he +would not be suffered to depart without a much severer chastisement. The +following is another instance of her extraordinary strength: Mr. Jones, +the Agent of the Copper Mines at Llanberis, about eighteen years ago, was +superintending the loading of Ore, near the small Quay, at the upper end +of the Lake; and Catherine happening to be one of the Spectators, Mr. J. +went behind her unperceived, and laying hold of her, jocularly said, “now +Catherine, suppose I push you into the Lake;”—presently, she also got +behind him; and though he was a tall, strong, lusty than, she laid hold +of him under the Shoulders, and holding him up nearly at arm’s length, +Now Sir, said she, suppose I drop you in? This extraordinary woman, who +is of a very masculine appearance, and has a pretty long black beard, +lives in a lonely Cottage, situated beyond the usual haunts of her fellow +Creatures, and without a single inmate; and though her appearance is so +unfeminine, yet she is humane, gentle and charitable, esteemed and +respected in her neighbourhood. After this long digression, we hasten to +relate the numerous qualifications, and uncommon exploits of her rival +Amazon, the before mentioned Margaret ferch Evan, whose character I shall +sum up in Mr. Pennant’s own words,—She was the greatest hunter, shooter, +and fisher of her time; she kept a dozen at least, of Dogs, Terriers, +Greyhounds, and Spaniels, all excellent in their kinds.—She killed more +Foxes in one year, than all the confederate Hunts do in ten;—rowed +stoutly, and was Queen of the Lakes;—fiddled excellently, and knew all +our old music;—did not neglect the mechanic arts, for she was a good +Joiner, and made Cards for dressing Wool; and at the age of seventy, was +the best wrestler in the country, few young men daring to try a fall with +her.—Some years ago, she had a Maid of congenial qualities, but Death, +“that mighty hunter,” earthed this faithful companion of her’s; Margaret +was also Blacksmith, Shoemaker, Boat-builder, and maker of Harps:—she +could also mow Hay, shoe her own Horses, make her own Shoes, and build +her own Boats, while she was under contract to convey the Copper ore down +the Lakes. We must not forget, that all the neighbouring Bards paid +their addresses to her, and celebrated the exploits of their beloved +_Margaret_, in pure British verse; at length she gave her hand to the +most effeminate of her admirers, (who was a harper) as if predetermined +to maintain the superiority which nature had bestowed on her. + +About half a mile to the North of Pen y Llynn, (or the lower end of the +Lake) are the remains of _Llys Dinorddwig_, a house said to have been one +of the Palaces of Prince Llewelyn ap Gruffydd; the walls high and strong, +the hall twenty-four yards long, and before the house is a deep ditch, +over which had probably been a drawbridge. Not very far from hence is a +spot called Rhiw’r Cyrn, or the Brow of the Horns, where according to +ancient usage, an Officer stood and blew his horn, to give notice to the +Household of the approach of their Master, or to summon the Vassals to +assemble on all emergent occasions. Near this place was discovered, +about twenty years ago, a Stone, about Four Feet in length, one in +breadth, and about Six Inches thick, with the following inscription, IMP +Q TRO DECIO VS.—Persons going up the Lake may be landed either near the +New Inn, or on the Meadow below Mr. Smith’s Cottage, or they may proceed +to the extremity of the upper Pool, and walk from thence to the Village, +which is about a quarter of a mile distant, and procure refreshment at +Robert Closs’s, who keeps a small Inn there; the Landlord of this House, +as well as Pierce Jones, who lives at the other Inn, are both very civil +and obliging men, and will either act as Guides themselves, or will +procure persons to attend any Gentlemen up Snowdon, or to any of the +neighbouring Villages: Ponies may also be obtained at both these Houses: +and though the accommodations may not be equal to what we generally meet +with in large Towns, and on Public Roads, yet the Botanist, the +Mineralogist, the Artist, the Angler, and in short every person who is an +admirer of Nature, and is fond of the wonderful and sublime, will +contrive to remain a few days in this romantic, though secluded spot. +One Day may be well employed in examining Mr. Smith’s Quarries, yr Allt +Ddu, and Clogwyn y Gigfran, and observing the men while at work, many of +whom descend fifteen or twenty yards, by the assistance of two Ropes, +(one about their middle, and the other in their hands) to a small ledge, +over a dreadful precipice, where they continue engaged for many hours, in +boring, or detaching considerable fragments from the main Rock, and +ascend again in the same manner.—A visit to Twll Du, a stupendous _roche +fendue_, or split Rock, near Llyn y Cwn, about three miles North of the +Village, and mentioned by Mr. Pennant, might be recommended, as a very +rational and pleasing amusement for the second Day: this might also +include a walk over Glydair Fawr, to examine the immense columnar Rocks +on Glydair Bach; and noticed by the same Gentleman, one of which it about +25 Feet long, and six broad; the summit of this Mountain is covered with +groups of these columnar Stones, lying in all directions, and in some +places piled one upon the other. From the two Glydairs’ may be seen +several Lakes, such as Llyn Idwal, Llyn Bochlwyd, and Llyn Ogwen; and +also the Great Irish Road, leading from Bangor Ferry to Capel Curig. +From this eminence may also be surveyed that most singular Mountain +called Trevaen, (trifurcated) which is more conical, more insulated, and +more completely detached from all the surrounding Hills and Rocks, than +perhaps any other in the Principality, and it is so steep on every side, +that it is considered, even by the Shepherds, a Feat of great vigour, +agility, and courage, to ascend this stupendous natural Pyramid; and +there being two columnar Rocks on the very summit, about 8 Feet high, and +nearly 4 from each other, and overhanging a most frightful Precipice, and +the space on the top of each very confined, it is thought a proof of +noble daring, to challenge each other to climb up, and step from one to +the other; these stones, at a particular part of the Road from Ogwen Pool +to Capel Curig, have the appearance of two men, and it is jocularly +related by the Peasants, that a Gentleman once stood a considerable time +expecting them either to move or come down. The Mountains in this part +of Carnarvonshire, (observes Mr. Pennant) are of a stupendous height, +mostly precipitous, the tops of many edged with pointed Rock; I have, +from the depth below, says he, seen the Shepherds skipping from peak to +peak, but the point of contact was so small, that from this distance, +they seemed to my uplifted eyes, like beings of another Order, floating +in the Air. And lastly Snowdon, will no doubt occupy one or two days +more, in a most pleasing and agreeable manner. + +There are three different Routs by which Strangers are generally +conducted up this celebrated Mountain: the best, and most usual, is that +commencing between the New Inn and Dolbadarn Castle, near the Bridge, and +following the course of the River for about a quarter of a mile, and +passing very near the Waterfall called Caunant Mawr, then turning to the +left, and pursuing the Copper Sledge path-way, along the South slope of +the ridge of Hills between the upper vale of Llanberis and Cwm Brwynog, +as far as the Sheep-fold, and the Copper Mine at the upper end of Waun +Cwm Brwynog; then turning to the left, (or North) and winding up the side +of the slope or ridge, cross over till we are in view of the Llanberis +pass, above the Church. During the first part of our progress, the view +was confined, but here on this mountain flat, the prospect is extensive, +particularly to the North West, where the greatest part of the Island of +Anglesey is visible; and to the East, a portion of Denbighshire may be +seen, between the mountains. We now begin to ascend Llechwedd y Re, the +formidable slope above Llyn du yr Arddu, or otherwise, Clogwyn Coch, and +Clogwyn du’r Arddu, the two precipices impending over that once black, +but _now green_ Pool; (from the effects of the Copper) after this last +ascent is surmounted, the progress is easy, and the rise very gradual, +for upwards of half a mile, till we join the Bettws, or Quellyn Copper +Ore path, near Bwlch Glas gap, before mentioned; from thence to the peak +the distance is something more than a quarter of a mile, and the ascent +easy. There was a circular wall formerly on the summit, (which is not +much more than from six to eight yards square) to shelter the visitors +from the cold, but the Bethgelert Guide, named Lloyd, having collected a +sum of money, (about five Pounds as it is supposed) from different +Gentlemen; in order to build a small hut, or shed, he made use of the +Stones for that purpose; but the miserable building which he erected, and +which is nothing more than a heap of stones piled together in the form of +a small Stack of Corn, could not have cost him more than twenty or thirty +Shillings, and is on the east side, about ten yards below the _apex_; but +at present is of no use, as it is nearly coming down:—Here it is usual +for Strangers to leave their names inscribed on the ruins of this small +Building.—Small stones are frequently found near this spot, bearing the +impression of different Shells. From this elevated situation may be +seen, in clear weather, the Wicklow Hills, on the West; the Isle of Man, +and the Cumberland and Westmoreland Mountains, on the North and North +East; and a part of South Wales to the South West: The best time for such +a view are the months of June and July, when it will be necessary to be +on the Mountain before Sun-rise, as mists and fogs generally collect soon +after.—It would not however, be advisable for persons of a tender habit, +or delicate constitution, to attempt such an arduous undertaking, +particularly in the night: at the same time it may be safely asserted, +that no person who is equal to the task, will ever have occasion to +regret having ascended Snowdon, even in cloudy weather; particularly if +the Sun should occasionally appear, as in this aerial region the scenery +and the views are perpetually shifting and changing; and many have been +known to prefer, a partially cloudy or misty, to a hot sultry day, +(though tolerably clear) for such an excursion. We shall here beg leave +to introduce some extracts from a Letter received by a young Lady, in +which her Friend gives a very lively and interesting description of the +pleasure she enjoyed on a visit to Snowden, in such weather as that above +described: “My dear Friend,—I considered myself particularly unfortunate +in not finding you at home, during my visit to North Wales; especially as +I remained so long in your immediate neighbourhood. Perhaps you may +recollect telling me, with what (I must confess) I _then_ thought a +prejudiced affection for your native scenery; ‘that no season or weather, +could deprive Snowdon of its powers of amazing, and delighting.’ The +truth of your remark forced itself into my mind, during two successive +days, on which I ascended its lofty summit. The accounts of those two +days, and the light in which my English feelings regarded your Country +scenes, will, I trust, not be uninteresting. The morning destined for +our first attempt, was ushered in by one of those intense fogs, which +portend a sultry day; the late learned, worthy, and much respected +Counsellor Dancey, was one of the party, and several Ladies and +Gentlemen: I despair of conveying to your mind, any idea of the +high-wrought expectations with which I commenced the ascent of this King +of Hills, and never were expectations more fully answered. The variety, +the constant succession of magnificent scenes, that gradually opened to +our view, are absolutely indiscribable. You may conceive a _group_, (for +we found other parties on the summit) of apparently aerial beings, +standing on an elevated peak, literally above the clouds; for the +glorious source of day, shed his Beams upon our heads, while our feet +were enveloped in mist.—Picture to yourself the Sea, when agitated by a +storm, suddenly arrested by an intense Frost, for such was, absolutely, +the appearance, the congregated mists and clouds, represented to our +astonished and enraptured eyes. In the course of about ten minutes, or a +quarter of an hour, this irregular surface of waves began to break up and +separate; and like an immense Army, sent advanced guards, and columns in +different directions. The commotion, at the first breaking up, and the +regular movements afterwards, were grand and magnificent beyond +description. After these advanced guards (which were generally fleecy, +transparent clouds, with fringes and festoons hanging in different +fantastic shapes, and reflected Beams of the Sun, throwing golden tints +upon their edges) came the main Army. Presently through the mist, +several huge Mountains reared their Leviathan backs, and immense +projections, appearing like so many capes and promontaries, stretching +out into an endless Ocean; while other rocks assumed the appearance of +small conical Islands, in this resplendent abyss. In a short time, these +advancing Armies regularly encamped, or _bovouack’d_ for the night, in +the different passes, and excavations of the mountains; this was not all, +for as we descended, while these beautifully transparent mists were +quietly at rest, some hundreds of yards below us, we suddenly beheld huge +gigantic shadows, thrown athwart the immense abyss. This was about fire +in the evening, for with a reluctance similar to that of our great +progenitors, in leaving Paradise, we lingered on the summit some hours. +We stopped and gazed, our sticks and umbrellas were converted, by the +reflection, into Goliah of Gath’s tremendous club or weaver’s beam;—we +began to brandish these weapons, and to our great amusement and +astonishment, our lengthened bulky shadows gently imitated our different +movements. At length we tore ourselves from these grand and sublime +scenes, and arrived by the dusk of the evening at the pleasant little Inn +of Llanberris. Having been so much delighted the first, I was easily +induced (undeterred by heat and fatigue) to join a party of friends, who +were going up the following day;—about half way, we had a fine distant +view of Anglesey, with the indentures formed in its coast by the Sea; a +thick mist overtook us, and shut the fairy scene from our eyes.—We +reached the summit completely enveloped in clouds, which gradually +opening, the Elyssian Vale of Nanthwynant burst upon the sight; the +clouds soon covered it again, but we were amply compensated by a view of +an extensive tract of Sea and Land, terminated by the faintly marked +outline of South Wales.—Soon another opening presented the romantic +region of Capel Curig, which with the variety of Lakes that appeared on +every side, with the Sun shining upon many of them, afforded a most +enchanting _coup de œil_.—At this moment the attention of the party was +most forcibly arrested by the appearance of our shadows reflected upon +the mists, (but not so lengthened as the day before, as it was earlier in +the afternoon) and encircled by three Rainbows of the most vivid and +distinct colours.—The effect was beyond description. It was then that +the thought of the great Creator of all these Wonders rushed upon the +mind. What an awful, incomprehensible Being must He be, who with one +word, formed these grand and magnificent scenes, and at whose nod, they +shall crumble into dust! + + These are thy glorious works! Parent of good, + Almighty; thine this universal frame, + Thus wondrous fair; Thyself how wondrous then!” + +Parties generally take cold meat with them, and a bottle either of Wine, +or Spirits, and dine at the Spring or Well near the side of the Quellyn +Copper path, about two hundred yards below Bwlch Glas gap, where the +Copper Ore Bin is situated. + +Wyddfa, (pronounced Withva) is the Welsh name of Snowdon; and it is +sometimes, though improperly, called Eryri, which appears to have been +the general appellation in former days, of the whole range of mountains +from Conway to Clynog: Two different derivations are generally given of +the word Eryri, one is Eryr, an Eagle; and the other Eira, or Eiri, Snow; +which is the most correct we will not pretend to determine, but it +appears that the person who originally translated the word, considered +the latter to be the genuine etymology. The distance from Dolbadern +Castle to the summit, may be about six miles; two to the Turbary flat in +Waun Cwm Brwynog, two to Clogwyn Coch Copper mine, and two from thence to +the top. There are two other routs from the Village, which ought not to +be attempted except by active young men; one up the steep declivity just +above the Church, and the other through Hafn (pronounced Haven) Mawr, +near the Old Bridge, (Bont Vawr). The height of Snowdon, above +High-water mark at Carnarvon, is 3591 Feet. + +Llanberis, in the Commot of Isgorfai, and Hundred of Arfon, is a small +Rectory, discharged from paying tenths, and valued in the King’s Books at +£4 18_s._ 9_d._ Patron, the Bishop of Bangor; Church, dedicated to St. +Peris. The number of inhabited Houses in the Parish, in 1811, was 86; +and the resident Population 438. Peris, to whom the Church is dedicated, +is stated in our Welsh MSS. (Bonedd y Saint) to have been a Cardinal from +Rome, who together with Padarn, (Paterninus) another Welsh Saint of +congenial habits and disposition, it is probable, withdrew from the world +to this secluded spot, as a place well adapted, according to the custom +and mistaken ideas of those dark ages, for religious retirement and +devotion: Peris fixed upon the upper Vale, which is still called Nant +Peris; and Padern chose the lower, distinguished in Leland’s time by the +name of Nant Padarn; as the properest situation for the erection of their +respective cells.—Eglwys Padarn, (the ruins of which many persons now +living recollect to have seen) was situated on a meadow, near the lower +Lake, called Llyn Padarn, on the left of the road in going from the Inn +to the old Castle. Cadvan, another religious devotee, came from Armorica +into Wales about the same time, and became Abbot of Bardsey. The upper +Lake is about a mile in length, and a quarter wide, and is said to be +twenty Fathoms deep particularly near a place called Diphwys:—and the +lower Lake, called Llyn Padarn, is about three miles in length, and +upwards of half a mile broad; both the Pools abound in Trout, and Char; +Salmon are also frequently taken in them. Not far from the Church is the +Saint’s Well, where a large Trout has for ages been exhibited to +Strangers; his appearance is considered a fortunate omen, and his +non-appearance the contrary; the present fish is about 20 or 30 years +old; the wonderful Pass, and two Cromlech’s, about two miles above the +Church, are well worth examining.—Some hopes are entertained, that the +beauties of this little Vale, will in time be accessible to strangers, by +the opening of a good Carriage Road this way to Capel Curig. An Old +Woman, many years ago, is said to have made use of the hollow, under one +of the before mentioned Cromlechs, (or fragments of Rocks) as her dairy, +during the Summer months. The distance from the Village to Capel Curig, +is about 8 miles; and to Bethgelert, through Nanthwynant, 11 or 12. The +upper end of the Pass, is called Gorphwysva, or the Resting Place. There +are three other Lakes in the Parish, besides those already mentioned, +viz. Llynn Cwm Dwthwch, in which there are very fine flavored trout, and +on which a small boat is kept for the use of anglers, by Pierce Jones, +the Innkeeper. This pool is the source of the river Hwch, flowing near +the Castle.—Llyn y Cwn, to the North, and Llyn Cwm Ffynnon, to the N.E. +of the village; in the former are some aquatic plants, particularly the +LOBELLIA DORTMANNA—SUBULARIA AQUATICA—ISOETES LACUSTRIS; and Twll Du, +below it, is the habitat of numerous and rare plants: a great variety may +also be discovered on and about Allt wen, above Mr. Smith’s Cottage, +between the two Lakes, as well as on Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, at the upper end +of Waun Cwm Brwynog, and on Clogwyn y Garnedd, which is the tremendous +precipice immediately under Snowdon, to the North. The old Copper Mines, +(Shafts, Levels, &c.) near the S.E. end of the upper Lake, also claim a +visit, particularly from every Mineralogist and Geologist. At some +distance below Llynn Du’r Arddu, nearly at the upper end of Waun Cwm +Brwynog, may be observed a huge black Stone, or fragment of a Rock, +called Y Maen Du yn yr Arddu; under or upon which, according to the +popular superstition, if a person sleep a night, he will awake either a +Poet or a Madman. The Gimlet Rock, near Pwllheli, the Studwall, (or St. +Tudwal,) Islands,—the Promontory of Lleyn, (or Langanum Promontorium)—and +Bardsey Island, at its extremity, may be clearly seen from Snowdon; as +well as Cadair Idris Mountain, near Dolgelley, in Merionethshire, and +Plinlimmon in Montgomeryshire. + +The old Tower, or Castle, called Dolbadern, must at one time have been +considerably larger, as the remains of other Towers, Walls, and Buildings +are still visible.—It is supposed to have been erected about the +beginning of the eleventh Century, or perhaps earlier, by one of the +Welsh Princes, {126} for the defence of this strong Pass, and to be used +occasionally as a hunting and fishing seat; for it is mentioned in the +Welsh Histories, or Chronicles, considerably earlier than Edward the 1st. +and there are some Welsh Poems still extant, which were addressed to Owen +Goch (Rufus) during the time of his imprisonment in this Fortress by his +Brother Llewelyn ap Griffith, last Prince of Wales, of the British line, +which was from the year 1254 to 1277, being 23 years: The following is a +part of an Ode, (Awdl) composed by Howel Voel ap Griffri ap Pwyll +Gwyddel, lamenting the confinement of that Prince: + + Duw mawr amerawdwr dyniadon, + Dillwng dy walch, terwyn-walch tirion, + Dewr Owain, den-rudd liw ffion, + Dur-goch Bâr, llachar, llawch Deon, &c. + +“Great God, the supreme Governor of the World, release from captivity, +the mild, the brave, the Lion-hearted Owen; with the ruddy Cheeks, and +his bright-gleaming steel Lance, tinged with the blood of his enemies; +the defender of all those who come to seek his protection;—he never +dismissed the injured suppliant unredressed,—the reliever of the +oppressed—the generous distributor of costly gifts. The Earth appears +desolate, since he has been in confinement,—the hopes of his dependants +are fled, and grief and disappointment will convey his friends and +adherents to the gloomy mansions of the dead.—Daring, enterprising, +successful, conquering General! He disdained to hoard up useless +treasures.—He was the Idol and Delight of his Countrymen,” &c. See the +remainder in the Myvyrian Archaiology already mentioned. + +Another Poem, by the same Bard, begins thus: + + Gwr sydd yn y twr yn hir westi, + Gwreidd, Teyrneidd, Teyrn-walch Ri, + Gwr a’m dothyw, gwall o’i golli,—o fyw + Gwreidd-liw, a glyw ei glodfori, &c. + +The following attempt at a versification of the commencement, though, +very far inferior to the original, may, nevertheless, give the English +reader some idea of the strength and spirit of the composition: + + In yonder Tower my darling Owen groans, + Oppress’d with grief, I hear his piteous moans; + Ah wretched Prince! within those walls confin’d, + A Brother’s victim—thus to death consign’d; + What mournful sounds, were to my ears convey’d, + As late dejected, o’er these rocks I stray’d; + Brave Owen’s name shall dwell upon my tongue + His matchless deeds, shall by the muse be sung + From ancient Princes, we his Lineage trace, + And valiant Chiefs, adorn his noble race; + No more his gates receive the crouded throng, + His guests no longer hear the minstrel’s song: + In war distinguish’d by his broken shield, + Like valiant Rodri, {128a} he disdain’d to yield: + Shame that a Prince, should thus in bondage pine, + Whose acts, if free, would Rhun’s {128b} fam’d deeds outshine + These lands ne’er saw the Saxon’s fire and sword, + Till he knew durance vile from Snowdon’s Lord, &c. + +The reader is referred for the remainder to the publication before +mentioned. + +Bishop Godfrey Goodman, purchased a Farm (Ty Du) in this Parish, where he +resided during the greatest part of the usurpation of Oliver Cromwell. +He was a native of Ruthin, and left that Farm and Coed Mawr, towards the +maintenance of the poor of his native parish. He died Bishop of +Gloucester, and made a most singular Will, printed in York’s five Royal +Tribes. About 37 years ago, a remarkably strong man, (Foulk Jones) lived +at Ty Du; many wonderful things are related of him, such as his carrying +the largest end of a piece of timber, while it required three men to +support the other;—his holding a bull, with one hand, by the +horns;—carrying a yearling heifer, that was unwell, home from the +field;—throwing a Denbighshire Champion, who had heard of his strength, +and was come over, either to fight or wrestle with him, over a wall from +a field into the road; and he is said to have lifted a strong man, who +insulted him, at Carnarvon, over the battlements of the Bridge, and to +have held him over the water, until he had submitted to make an apology, +for having so attacked him without any provocation. Many persons now +living recollect this man; he was a person of sober, peaceable habits, +and much beloved and respected by all his neighbours. + +The Rev. Evan Evans, alias Prydydd Hir, Author of Dissertatio de Bardis, +Specimens of Ancient British or Welsh Poetry; The Love of our Country, 2 +Vols. of Welsh Sermons, 8vo. &c. was Curate of Llanberis in the year +1771. He was then employed in collecting and transcribing Welsh MSS. and +had access to the libraries of most of the gentlemen of North Wales, +particularly to the valuable collections of Sir W. W. Wynne, Bart. (the +present gentleman’s father, and from whom he received a Pension of £20. +per Annum, which was afterwards withdrawn), those of Hengwrt, near +Dolgelley, Gloddaith, near Conway, and Plas Gwynn, P. Panton’s, Esq. +Anglesey. Mr. Evans born at Gynhawdref, near Aberystwith, in +Cardiganshire, was educated at the Grammar School of Ystrad Meirig, in +the same County, under the celebrated Mr. Richards, many years master of +that School. He shewed an early attachment to the Welsh Muse, and was +soon noticed by Mr. Lewis Morris, the famous Antiquary and Bard, who +conceived a very favorable opinion of his abilities, from some of his +juvenile compositions, in his native language.—Mr. Evans was of Merton +College, Oxford; he is said to have died in great distress and poverty, +at the place of his nativity, August, 1789, in the 58th year of his age. +The inhabitants of Llanberis still shew a pool in the river where he used +to bathe. The late Rev. B. Williams, of Vron, near Bala, Mr. Pennant’s +companion in his Welsh Tour, composed the following lines to his memory, +which may not be unacceptable to our readers, particularly at the present +period, when the love of Welsh Literature seems to be reviving: + + On Snowdon’s haughty brow I stood, + And view’d, afar, old Mona’s flood;— + Carnarvon Castle, Eagle-crown’d, + And all the glorious prospect round. + But soon each gay idea fled, + For Snowdon’s favorite Bard is dead;— + Poor Bard, accept a genuine tear, + And read thy true eulogium _here_; + Here, in my _heart_, that rues the day, + That stole Eryri’s pride away: + But lo! where seen, by fancy’s eye, + His visionary form glides by, + Pale, ghastly pale,—that hollow cheek,— + That frantic look does more than speak, + And tells a tale so full of woe, + My bosom swells, my eyes o’erflow:— + To want and to despair a prey, + He pin’d, and sigh’d his soul away! + Ungrateful countrymen, your _pride_, + Your _glory_, wanted bread and died! + Whilst Ignorance and Vice are fed, + Shall Wit and Genius droop their head? + Shall fawning Sycophants be paid + For flattering fools? while thou art laid + On thy sick bed, the mountain {131} heath, + Waiting the slow approach of Death, + Beneath inhospitable skies, + Without a friend to close thine eyes? + Thus, shall the chief of Bards expire? + The Master of the British Lyre! + And shall thy hapless reliques rot, + Unwept, unhallowed, and forgot? + No, while one grateful Muse remains, + And _Pity_ dwells on _Cambria’s_ plains, + Thy mournful story shall be told, + And wept till Time itself grows old. + + R. WILLIAMS, of Vron, near Bala.—1799. + +About the year 1805, John Closs, son of Robert Closs, the Innkeeper at +Llanberis, a little boy about seven years of age, was persuaded to go and +reside with his grandmother, at Caeau gwynion, in Nant y Bettws, not far +from Quellyn Pool, and his mother having come to see him, the love of +home revived in his memory, and the thoughts of seeing his brothers and +sisters became so powerful, that he resolved to follow his mother to +Llanberis, unknown both to her and his grandmother; he therefore pursued +her up the mountain at some distance: it was in the winter time, late in +the evening, and it began to snow, he lost his way, and after wandering +some time, he perished on the mountain. His mother, (though she once +fancied she heard a child crying) thought he was at his grandmother’s, +and the did woman concluded he was gone home with his mother, thus both +being deceived, it was some time before it was known that he had followed +his mother on that fatal evening; after two or three days painful search, +(numbers of the neighbours having collected together) his body was found +at the verge of a precipice, near the top of Moel Aelia. The following +lines were composed on that melancholy occasion: + + A luckless lad, one winter’s day, + Unknown to Granny, ran away, + Nor longer at her house would stay + Without his mother. + + Unknowing that her child pursu’d, + The gathering storm, unmov’d, she view’d, + The thoughts of home her strength renew’d;— + Alas poor mother! + + With feebler steps, and fainter cry, + Alarm’d, he sees the dark’ning sky, + Yet still he hop’d that she was nigh, + And sobb’d my mother. + + Dark was the night, the snow descends, + Near Aelia’s top his life he ends, + As home his weary way he beads, + Nor longer cries my mother! + +Some of our readers may probably be pleased and amused with the following +extracts from Leland, respecting Llanberis and its neighbourhood: + + “Linne Dolbaterne, 2 miles in length, and a diminutive mile in + breadth; Vallis Monachus, alias Nant Manach, or Peris, is the upper + Valley, in which is Linne Peris, a mile in length, and a dim half in + breadth.—Segent (Seiont) cometh first through Llynn Peris, and a bow + shot off, runneth into Llyn Padarn; there is but a meadow and bridge + between these two pools.—In these two pooles be redde belly fishes, + called thorr gough (Tor goch) id est, thori aut pectoris rubri. + There be also some of these in Linne Tarddynni, (Cawellyn) and in + Linne Bala deulynn, (Llanllyfni Lakes); they be taken in these three + pooles in order, and taken in one and not seen in the other; Linne + Doythock nothing so big as Linne Peris: these three, Linne Peris, + Linne Padarn, and Linne Doythock, are all in the Parish of Llanberis, + and the lowest Lake is five miles E.S.E. from Carnarvon, and lie in + vallies, W.N.W. from Llanberis. Bala Deulynn is in Hugh Gurvai (Uwch + Gorfai) Hundred, and six miles (nine miles) beyond Carnarvon; the + others, viz. Linne Peris, Linne Dolpaterne, Linne Doythock, and Linne + Tarddynni, are in the Commot of Is Gorvai, (_infra_ Gwyrvai) and all + the great Withaw Hill {133} is wholly in this Commot; this hill is + all in the Parish of Peris, and is a _radicibus_ five miles to the + top. Dolbaterne Castle, on a rock, betwixt two Linnes; there is yet + a piece of a Tower, where Owen Gough (Goch) brother to Llywelyn, last + Prince, was in prison; it is in Is Gwrfai Commot. Dolbadarn a five + miles from Carnarvon, by E.S.E. hard by Linne Peris; Segent (Seiont) + as I heard say riseth at Linne Dolbaterne. This Pool is three miles + in length, and in some places a mile broad, and in diverse places + less and less; it lieth by Withaw Hill, (Snowdon) and is distant 5 + miles from Carnarvon, towards S.E.—The best Wood of Carnarvonshire is + by Glynn Cledair, in the Parish of Dolwyddelen, and by Glynn Lligwy, + and by Capel Curig, and at Llanperis,—all Creigiau’r Ryri is Forest. + Metely good wood about Conway Abbey, and Penmachno, and about + Coetmore, and Coet Park, by Bangor, and other places; in Lleyn and + Eivionydd is little wood. Carnarvonshire, about the shore, hath + reasonable good corn, about a mile upward from the shore unto + Carnarvon,—then more upward be Eryri Hills, and in them is very + little corn, except oats in some places, and a little barley, but + scantly rye, if there were the Deer would destroy it; but in Lleyn + and Eifionydd is good corn, both by shore, and almost through upland. + Syr Gul. Griffith hath a fayr House at Penrynn, two miles on this + side Bangor; William vab William, dwelleth at a place called + Gochwillan, a mile on this side Penryn; William Coetmore, dwelleth at + Coetmore, by Tal Lynn Ogwen; Pillsdon, in Caerarvon Town; John vab + Madock vab Poel, dwelleth in Lleen, at Bodvel; John Wynne, vab + Meredith, dwelleth at Gweder, a two bow shots above Llanrwst, on the + Ripe (Bank) of the Conwy River; Elis vab Morris, at Clennenna, in + Penmorva Parish, in Comot Hinioneth (Eifionydd).” + +Should the stranger not be disposed to accompany us in our Tour round the +Promontory of Lleyn, and to the Island of Bardsey, (which, by the bye, we +hope to render both interesting and amusing), he may proceed from +Carnarvon to Bethgelert, and from thence, along the sea coast, to +Barmouth, by Tremadoc and Harlech; or, from Pont Aberglaslyn to Tan y +Bwlch, Meantwrog, Trawsfynydd, and so by Dol y Melynllyn, and the Cain +and Mawddach Waterfalls to Dolgelley. The distance from Carnarvon to +Bethgelert is about 12 miles: we proceed up the Hill, by Llanbeblig, (the +Parish Church) then over Pont Peblig Bridge, about half a mile beyond +which, on the left, is Glangwnna, the beautiful and much-admired seat of +Thomas Lloyd, Esq. standing on a fine eminence, between two rivers, at +the western extremity of the Parish of Llanrug; this place, in point of +situation, possesses many natural advantages, and all the improvements +exhibit evident tokens of a judicious mind, and cultivated taste, as it +contains, within its own limits, all the requisites to form a fine +landscape, and has on one side an extensive sea prospect, on the other, a +range of majestic mountains; upon the whole, this is generally considered +as one of the sweetest and loveliest Villas in this part of the +Principality. On the right, about the same distance from the road, is +Penrhôs, a large, handsome house, lately built by the proprietor, H. R. +Williams, Esq.; it commands a fine view of the Castle, the Menai, +Carnarvon Bay, and the surrounding Scenery. About three miles farther, +we approach the beautiful little vale of Bettws Garmon, watered by the +river Gwyrfai, the source of which is at the foot of Snowdon, and after +running through Quellyn Lake, and under Pont Newydd Bridge, it empties +itself into the Menai, at Abermenai. On the right, Mynydd-mawr forms a +striking feature, its top is smooth, but its front is formed into an +immense precipice, retiring inwards in a semicircular shape. Moel Aelia, +on the left, is another mountain of a stupendous bulk, most regularly +rounded, and of a beautiful verdure; this pass was defended, on one side, +by Castell Cidwm, a great rock at the foot of Mynydd mawr, formerly +fortified, and on the other by a small Fort, the remains of which are +still visible, near Treflan Bettws is a perpetual Curacy; the Church is +very small, and is dedicated to St. Germanus, and the Parish consists +only of six or seven tenements; the corn tithe belongs to the family of +Glyn Llifon; it is in the patronage of the Bishop. About half a mile +beyond Bettws, near a small mill, Melin Cerrig y Rhyd, commonly called +Nant Mill, is a most beautiful cascade, and a small Arch, without any +Battlements, forming a very singular appearance, of which there is a +view, in Mr. Pennant’s Tour, representing a person on horseback, going +home over this little Bridge, with a load from the mill. On the left is +Nant Hall, one of the seats of Sir R. Williams, Bart. Member for this +County.—The present lord Viscount Bulkeley is a descendant (by the +mother’s side) of the Rowland’s of this house.—Soon after passing Nant, +the Vale expands with a magnificent view of Snowdon—travel along the side +of Llyn Cawellyn, pass the Snowdon guide’s house, and proceed to the +junction of the Drws y Coed road, near a small Bridge, about a quarter of +a mile beyond Quellyn Lake, and soon after arrive in view of Llynn Cader, +a small round pool on the right, respecting which the Welsh people relate +a ridiculous tale, that a gentleman’s hounds, in former days, started, on +a rock near this Lake, a strange kind of an animal (Aur Frychyn) with +tufts of hair shining like gold, nearly approaching, according to their +representation, to a species of Buffalo, and that he was pursued for some +time and killed, near a place called Nant y lle, and that he bellowed so +loud when taken that the rocks rent. After travelling about two miles, +we begin to descend towards Bethgelert, and observe, on the right, Moel +Hebog, a lofty conical Hill, which Lord Lyttleton ascended from Brynkir, +when he made the Tour of North Wales. Bethgelert is a neat little +village, in a romantic situation, between high mountains; here is a good +Inn, surrounded with thriving plantations, built about eighteen years +ago, by Thomas Jones, Esq. of Bryn Tirion, before mentioned. The Church +is small, and has been Conventual, belonging to a Priory of _Augustines_, +and dedicated to St. Mary. There is reason to suppose, says Mr. Pennant, +they might have been of that class which was called Gilbertines, and +consisted of both men and women, who lived under the same roof, but +strictly separated from each other by a wall; the cause of his suspicion +is a meadow, near the Church, called Dol y Lleian, the Nun’s meadow. +Bethgelert is supposed to be the most ancient foundation in the Country, +except Bardsey. Tanner ascribes it to our last Prince, but it must have +been long before his days, there being a recital of a Charter, for +certain Lands bestowed on it, by Llewelyn the Great, who began his reign +in 1194. It was favored, in the same manner, by other succeeding +Princes; David ap Llewelyn bestowed on it some Lands in Pennant +Gwernogan, belonging to Tudor ap Madoc, to which the Prince had no right; +this occasioned a suit between the sons of Tudor and Philipp, Prior of +the House, before William de Grandison, and R. de Stanedon, at +Caernarvon, when a verdict was given against the Convent. The Prior had +for his support the Grange of Llecheiddior, in Eifionydd, and part of a +mill; the Grange of Fentidillt, and Village of Gwehelyn; the Grange of +Tre’r Beirdd in Anglesey, one Plough Land, and a certain share of the +bees. The esteem which these insects were held in by the Ancient +Britons, on account of their producing the nectareous Mead, was so great, +that they considered them as created in Paradise, that when they quitted +it on the fall of man, they were blessed by God himself, and therefore no +Mass ought to be celebrated but by the light of their wax, as we read in +the laws of Howel Dda. The Prior had, besides, an allowance of fifty +cows and twenty-two sheep; the expences of the house must have been +considerable, for it was on the great road from England and South Wales +to North Wales, and from Ireland to England. In order to enable this +place to keep up its usual hospitality, after it had suffered in 1283, by +a casual fire, Edward 1st most munificently repaired all the damages; and +Bishop Anian, about the year 1286, for the encouragement of other +benefactors, remitted to all such who truly repented of their sins, forty +days of any penance inflicted on them. In 1535 it was bestowed by Henry +VIII. on the Abbey of Chertsey, in Surrey, and in 1537, it was given, +with the last, as an Appurtenance to that of Bisham, in Berkshire. On +the dissolution, the King gave to the family of the _Bodvels_, all the +Lands in Carnarvonshire, which belonged to this Priory, and all those in +Anglesey, to that of the Prydderchs, excepting the Township of Tre’r +Beirdd. The Revenues of Bethgelert were valued, by Dugdale, at Seventy +Pounds, Three Shillings and Eight-pence; by Speed, at Sixty-nine Pounds, +Three Shillings, and Eight-pence. Edward Conway is mentioned as last +Prior. There are no remains at present of the Convent.—Mr. Pennant had +in his possession a drawing of the Seal of the Priory, dated 1531; on it +was the figure of the Virgin and child, but no part of the Legend except +BETHKELE. Lewis Daron, a Bard of the 15th Century, in a Poem, (the +purport of which is to solicit David the Prior to bestow a fine bay +horse, then in his possession, on John Wynne, of Gwydir, Esq.) extols him +on account of his great learning and liberality.—Hence we are led to +suppose that this Monk was very opulent, and a popular character in his +time. The ground on the South side of the Church, seems to have been the +spot, says Mr. Williams, late of Llandegai, in his “Observations on the +Snowdon Mountain,” whereon stood the buildings which the Monks formerly +inhabited, and we may discover two or three arched doors, now closed up +on that side of the Church, through which these religious persons +probably entered, when they went to their devotions; there is likewise an +ancient Mansion House, near the Church, which probably was the habitation +of the Prior. In this house was shewn, some years ago, an old pewter +mug, which will contain two quarts, or more, and was called the +Bethgelert Pint, and any person who could grasp it in one hand, and drink +up the contents, (which was ale) at one draught, was entitled to the +liquor, _gratis_, and the tenant was to charge the value of it to the +Lord of the Manor, as part payment of his rent. At Bethgelert lie buried +two eminent Bards, Rhys Goch Eryri, and Dafydd Nanmor; the former died +about the year 1420, and it may be inferred, from his writings (many of +which are still extant) that he lived to the great age of 120. He was a +man of property, and lived at Hafod Garegog, situated beyond Pont +Aberglaslyn, on the road to Tan y Bwlch, and consequently in the County +of Merioneth, though within the limits of this Parish. The latter +resided at Nanmor, which is also a district of this Parish, on the same +side of the river. He died about A.D. 1460, and appears to have been a +person of some consequence; they were both learned men, (considering the +age they lived in) as their compositions abundantly testify. + +To the N.E. of the village, is the entrance into the beautiful little +Vale of Nant Gwynant, which, though narrow at first, expands and unfolds +its beauties, as the traveller advances; this valley may be considered, +however, as consisting of two portions or divisions, separated by a +narrow defile; at the upper end of the lower vale is Llynn Dinas Emrys, +and just above it, commanding a delightful view of that Lake, the River, +the Woods, Mountains, &c. and particularly of Snowdon, is Plâs Gwynant, +the romantic Summer residence of D. Vaudrey, Esq. Just below this small +Lake, and nearly in the centre of the Vale, appears the famous Dinas +Emrys, which is a huge insulated rock, clothed with wood, and precipitous +on three sides; on the summit is a large area, but no remains of a +Castle. On the accessible side are three ramparts of stone, within which +is the ruin of a small stone building, about ten yards long, the walls +without any mortar. This place is from early times celebrated in British +story, for here + + Prophetic Merlin sat, when to the British King, + The changes long to come, auspiciously he told. + +The legend is thus told: when Vortigern found himself unable to contend +with the treacherous Saxons, whom he had, in the year 449, invited into +Britain, he determined, by the advice of his Magicians, on building an +impregnable fortress in Snowdon. He collected the materials, which all +disappeared in one night.—The Prince, astonished at this, convened again +his wise men, who assured him his building would never stand, unless it +was sprinkled with the blood of a child, born without the help of a +father; the Realm was ransacked,—at length, one of his emissaries +overheard some boys at play reproach another, and call him an unbegotten +knave. The child and his mother were brought before the King,—she +confessed he was the offspring of an Incubus. The boy, whose name was +Merlin, was ordered to be sacrificed, but on confounding all the +Magicians, with his questions, and explaining the cause of the +miscarriage, got his liberty, and + + To that mighty King, who rashly undertook + A strong wall’d Tower to rear, those earthly spirits that shook + The great foundation still, in Dragon’s horrid shape + That dreaming wizzard told, making the mountain gape + With his most powerful charms, to view those caverns deep + And from the top of _Brith_, so high and wondrous steep, + Where Dinas Emrys stood, shewed where the serpent fought, + The white that tore the red, from whence the Prophet wrought + The Britons sad decay, then shortly to ensue. + +The above is Drayton’s translation of the legend, in his Polyolbion. +Merlin, or Merddin Emrys, or Ambrosius, was in fact the son of a noble +Roman of the same name; his mother, a vestal, to save her life and honor, +invented the fable of his father, which was swallowed by the credulity of +the times. Merlin, or Myrddin, was an able Mathematician and Astronomer, +and deeply read in all the learning of his age. The vulgar, as usual, +ascribed all he did to the art of magic, and his discovery, that +Vortigern had begun to found his Castle on a Morass, was immediately said +to have been attended with most portentous circumstances; numbers of +Prophecies were attributed to him, the repetition of which is said to +have been forbidden, by the Council of Trent; however, since it is +certain that Vortigern, after his misfortunes, retired to the Snowdon +Hills, and died not very remote from them, it is possible he might have +selected this for his strong hold, as it is admirably adapted for that +purpose, and nearly fills the streight of the valley, and Merlin +Ambrosius might have given to it the name of Emris. A place close by, +styled Cell y Dewiniaid, or the Cell of the Diviners, allusive to the +Magicians of Vortigern’s Court, is another circumstance which favors the +history of this celebrated supposed Prophet, and not at a great distance, +are some large stones, which are called Beddau’r Dewiniaid, the Tombs of +the Magicians. There is a tradition also, that within this rock there is +a Cave, the mouth of which is now shut up, where Merddin concealed some +valuable articles, particularly a golden chair, lest they should fall +into the enemy’s hands. The upper Lake is called Llyn Gwynant,—the +distance between the two is something more than a mile, and near the road +are some beautiful thriving plantations, belonging to the Rev. H. Wynne +Jones, and Mr. Vaudrey, before mentioned. On the South side of the Upper +Lake, are the ruins of a small Chapel, called _Capel Nan’hwynen_, and it +would be a great convenience to the inhabitants if it were re-built, as +the distance from hence to Bethgelert is between three and four miles. +There is a tradition that _Madog_, the son of Prince Owen Gwynedd, +resided near this spot, for some time before he left his Country, and set +sail for America, and that he frequented this small Chapel, of which he +is supposed to have been the founder. Mr. Pennant pronounces this to be +the most beautiful Vale in _Snowdonia_, being guarded on each side by +vast Mountains, such as Crib Ddu, or part of Mynydd Nanmor; the Aran, on +the West, Lliwedd to the North; Dduallt and Wenallt, being about five +miles in extent, from its upper extremity to the Village of +Bethgelert,—and varied with woods, lakes, rivers, meadows, waterfalls, +and rocks of the most fantastic and picturesque appearance. The distance +from Bethgelert to Capel Curig is twelve miles, the latter part of which +is over an uninteresting mountain moor, or flat; it improves a little, +however, within a few miles of the last mentioned place, when we arrive +in view of the two Lakes, called Llyniau Mymbir. From Capel Curig to +Bettws y Coed, or Bettws wyrion Iddon, is five miles, along the new Irish +Road. About half way between these two places is the celebrated +Cataract, Rhaiadr y wennol, where the River Llugwy falls, with a +tremendous roar, over some steep lofty rocks, into a deep black chasm, +concealed by large oak, and dark overhanging woods. Considerable remains +of a large Roman building were discovered, some years ago, near this +spot, on the Estate of the Duke of Ancaster, at a place called Bryn y +Gefeiliau. “I distinctly traced,” says Mr. Lysons, “the walls of one +room, the dimensions of which were 60 feet by 20.” This neighbourhood is +supposed to have been much frequented by the Romans, on account of its +Slate Quarries, and valuable Lead and Copper Mines, and it is conjectured +that the Roman Road, from Pen y stryt, and Tommen y Mur, in the Parish of +Trawsfynydd, passed this way to _Conovium_, (Caer Rhun), as it has been +distinctly traced by the Church of Dolydd Helen, Cwm Pen nan’maen, +Pennant, Hafodty Dôl Camman, Llechwedd Bychan, Foel Fras, and above Hafod +Yspytty, &c.—Capel Curig is in the Parish of Llandegai, and was a Chapel +of ease to that Church and Llanllechid, but is now served with Dolydd +Helen; it is dedicated to a reputed saint of the name of Curig, +respecting whom, and some other begging Friars, these Welsh lines were +written: + + Un o honynt, a ddygai + _Curig_ Lwyd, dan gwr ei glôg; + Gwas arall, a ddug Seiriol, + A naw o gaws yn ei gol. + + A certain Friar, to increase his store + Beneath his cloak, grey Curig’s Image bore; + And, to protect good folks from nightly harm, + Another sells St. Seiriol as a charm. + +It may reasonably be supposed that St. Curig resided for some time in +this sequestered spot, as we find many persons of eminence, in the fifth +and sixth Centuries, to have fled from the borders of Scotland, and other +parts of Great Britain, to the Mountains of Wales, to avoid the Saxon +sword. Any person who may be desirous of visiting the old British Castle +of Dolydd Helen, may take a guide from Capel Curig, and cross over near +the foot of that high mountain, Moel Siabod, often conspicuous from most +distant places. This fortress is situated on a high rock, precipitous on +one side and insulated; it consists of two square Towers, one forty feet +by twenty-five, the other thirty-one by twenty; each had formerly three +floors. This was founded by one of our Welsh Princes, but we are +ignorant of its origin.—Iorwerth Drwyn dwn (or with the broken nose) made +this place his residence, and here is said to have been born his son +_Llewelyn the Great_, who began his reign in the time of Richard the +first. Meredydd ap Ievan, before mentioned, and who was brought up at +Crug, near Carnarvon, and who was an ancestor of the Wynne’s of Gwydir, +in the reign of Henry VII. purchased the Lease of this Castle, and the +Inclosures belonging to it, from the Executors of Sir Ralph Berkenet, it +having been excepted among the places granted by Richard III. and resumed +by his successor. Before that time, Howel ap Evan ap Rhys Gethin, a +noted outlaw, resided here. As soon as it came into the possession of +Meredydd, he removed from his habitation in Eifionydd, (a hundred in the +County) to this Castle, giving this excellent reason: “I had rather fight +with outlaws and thieves, than with my own blood and kindred. If I live +in my own house in Eifionydd, I must either kill my own kinsmen, or be +killed by them.” The feuds among the principal gentlemen in Evionedd +occasioned perpetual murders, and Nant-Conwy was filled with banditti. +This gentleman soon reformed the Country; he established colonies of the +most tall and able men he could procure, till at last they amounted to +seven score tall bowmen, every one arrayed in a jacket or armolet coat, a +good steel cap, a short sword and dagger, together with his bow and +arrows; many of them also had horses, and chasing slaves, which were +ready to answer the cry on all occasions. He founded the strong house of +Pen nan’maen, a mile distant from the Castle. He removed the Church, +which before lay in a thicket, to a more open place, by way of security; +for he never dared to quit his house, without leaving in it a strong +guard, and another of twenty tall Archers to attend him, whenever he went +to Church, besides a watchman, on a rock called Carreg y Bîg, to give +notice of the approach of the banditti.—He ended his useful life in 1525, +and left behind him twenty-three legitimate, and three natural +children.—The Church had been an impropriation of the Abbey of +Beddgelert; it is very small, and has in it a monument commemorating such +of the family as were buried in it. After proceeding so far, many +persons may feel inclined to visit Llanrwst, the rout to which we have +before described, not only on account of its celebrated Bridge, built by +Inigo Jones, but in order to visit the ancient Monuments within the +Gwydir Chapel, of which a most correct and beautiful view has lately been +given to the public, by Mr. H. Hughes, of Llan Saint Ffraid, Glann Conwy, +who is now publishing the Beauties of Cambria, and, as a native artist of +genius and merit, deserves the countenance and support of every friend to +his country. + +We shall now return to the Village of Bethgelert, and proceed from thence +to the celebrated Pont Aberglaslyn, by some called (though very +improperly) the Devil’s Bridge, {149} about a mile distant; the first +part of the road is through some thriving plantations, afterwards along +the Banks of the River, when in a short time the mountains approach so +close, as to leave only room for the furious torrent to roll over its +stony bed, above which is a narrow road, formed with incredible labour, +impending over the water; the scenery is the most magnificent that can be +imagined: the mountains rise to very uncommon height, and oppose to us +nothing but a broken series of precipices, one above the other, as high +as the eye can reach. Here is very little appearance of vegetation, yet +there are small patches here and there, sufficient to tempt the poor goat +to its destruction, for it will sometimes leap down to an alluring tuft +of verdure, where, without possibility of return, it must remain to +perish, after it has finished the dear-bought repast. The Bridge +terminates the pass, and consists of a single Arch over a deep chasm, and +supported on each side by a projecting rock,—above is a small cataract, +where the traveller at times may have much amusement, in observing the +Salmon, in great numbers, make their efforts to surmount the heights. +Here had been a Royal weir, in the Reign of Henry IV. which was then +rented by Robert ap Meredydd. It probably belonged, in old times, to our +natural Princes, for it seems to have been a most valuable privilege, as +we read that young Prince Elphin was endowed with one by his Royal +Father; and the celebrated Bard Taliesin, wrote a Poem to console him on +his disappointment in finding one morning an empty weir, which probably +in those times was very seldom the case: + + Elphin deg, taw ath wylo + Na chabled neb yr eiddo + Ni wna les drwg obeithio, &c. + + Elphin, fair as roseate morn, + Cease o lovely youth to mourn &c. + + _See Pennant’s Tour_. + +Not far from this Bridge is shewn a stone, by the road side, called Rhys +Goch o Eryri’s chair, where it is said he used to sit and compose his +Poems; and not far from Meillionen, in this Parish, was discovered in +1784, a curious Shield; supposed to be British. There is an excellent +road from Pont Aberglaslyn to Tremadoc, along the Western Banks of the +Glaslyn, the distance about five miles; as also over the Bridge to Tan y +Bwlch and Festiniog, which is about seven or eight. + +We shall now return once more to Carnarvon, and proceed nearly along the +Sea Coast, round the Promontory of Lleyn.—We have already conducted the +stranger as far as the small Bridge (Pont Afon Rhyd), where the road +branches off for Llanllyfni; having proceeded about a mile further, +observe on the right Mount Hazel, the seat of the Rev. Glynne Bodvel +Lewis, and between it and the sea Llandwrog Church, where there are +several handsome Monuments, to the memory of the Wynne’s of Glynn Llivon, +particularly that of Sir John Wynn, (grandfather of the present Lord +Newborough,) who built that house, which is now much neglected, and +greatly out of repair, owing to the minority of the proprietor. Glynn is +on the left of the road, and near the little river Llifon, issuing from +the Cilgwyn Mountains. _Cilmin_ Droed-ddu, or Kilmin with the _black +foot_, one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales, and nephew to Merfryn +Frych, Prince of Wales, slain 841, was the founder of this family, and is +said to have had his residence near this spot; they bear, in allusion to +the name of their Ancestor, a man’s leg _coupe a la cuisse_, sable: he is +said to have injured his leg in some dangerous encounter, and that it +became discoloured, and that he continued lame in consequence of this +unfortunate circumstance. Glynn Llifon came into possession of the late +Sir John Wynn, by the marriage of his father, Thomas Wynn, Esq. of +Boduan, in Lleyn, with Frances, second daughter to John Glynn, Esq. of +Glynn Llifon.—The Glynns of Lleiar, and Plas Newydd, near Glynn Llifon, +were branches of this family: the latter afterwards became the property +of the Owens of Bodowen, in Anglesey. The principal Roman encampment, in +this neighbourhood, is Dinas Dinlle, situated upon the verge of the Irish +Channel, and almost in the centre of Carnarvon Bay; the Western part of +it is washed by all the higher tides, and it is not more than ten or +fifteen yards above the sea at any other time; it not only commands the +Bay itself, its Creeks and Harbours, but has also a boundless prospect +towards the Main Ocean, or Irish Channel, anciently called Mare +Vergivium, and in Welsh, Môr Werydd, insomuch that no Vessel can pass to +the Southward, without being observed by those who keep a good look out +at their station. The following Roman and British Posts and Encampments, +being not far distant from the road, may be conveniently visited by the +curious Tourist, as he proceeds on his journey.—Many of them appear to +have been out-posts and appendages to the principal _Dinas’s_, and to +have had a regular connection and communication with _Segontium_: + +1. Dinas Dinoethwy, near Pont Newydd, now the residence of Captain +Jones.—Length, 180 paces; Breadth, 60; South side slope, 20; North ditto, +30. + +2. Hen Gastell, on the brook Carrog, half a mile South of the above, and +in the Parish of Llanwnda.—Length, 40 paces; Breadth 30. + +3. Dinas Efrog, or Franog, near Collfryn, in Llandwrog.—Length, 70 +paces; Breadth, 30. + +4. Dinas y Prif, hot far distant from the last, a Square Fort, 50 yards +by 50. + +5. Craig y Ddinas, a considerable Fortification, on the River Llyfni, a +little to the N.W. of Lleiar.—Length, from N. to S. 120 yards; Ditto from +E. to W. 90 yards; Slope of the Inner Rampart, on the North side, 10 +yards; Ditto of the Outer ditto, 8 yards; Slope on the Sooth side, 40 +yards. + +6. Caer Ffridd, a Stone Fort, near Ffrwd Ysgyfarnog, not far from Glynn. + +7. Bwlan, a fortified eminence, near the same place. + +8. Brynn y Gorseddau, an eminence where there are some Druidical +Remains. + +9. Carnedd Angharad, a Grave in Glynn Park, North of the house. + +10. Bedd Gwennen, another Grave, near Ffrwd Ysgyfarnog. + +11. Bettws Gwenrhyw, the ruins of an old family Chapel, belonging to +Glynn. + +12. Muriau Gwilym Ddu, on Tyddyn Tudur Land, the ruins of the habitation +of the old Bard of that name. + +13. Talwrn yr Arch, on Bodaden Land, and behind that house, on Rhos +Tryfan Common, were visible, some years ago, several detached parts of an +old Roman Road. + +Llandwrog is a large extensive Parish, and contains about 10,000 Acres of +Land; the resident population, in 1801, was 1175. The Church is +dedicated to St. Twrog; it is a Rectory, in the patronage of the Bishop, +and is valued in the King’s Books at £11. 11_s._ 5½_d._—Dinas Dinlle is +in this Parish, the Roman Road from which to Segontium, is uncommonly +interesting, as it is carried chiefly over a flat marsh, once a morass, +and broken only in one part by a river, the ford over which is at this +day called _Rhyd y Pedestri_; but Rhyd y Equestri, which is mentioned Mr. +Rowlands, in his History of Anglesey, is now scarcely known.—Many Roman +Coins have been discovered here, particularly those of the Emperors +GALLIENUS, TETRICUS SENIOR, TETRICUS CÆSAR, CARAUSIUS, and ALECTUS. + +After passing Glynn, we cross the Llifon, and about two miles further the +Llyfni, a rapid Stream, flowing out of Llynn Nanlle, and soon afterwards +arrive at CLYNNOG, a neat pleasant Village, beautifully situated on a +plain, near the Sea shore. There is a very handsome venerable looking +old Church, which has greatly the appearance of a Cathedral; it is built +in form of a cross: the length, from East to West, is about one hundred +and thirty-eight feet, and from North to South, seventy. Near the Altar +are three neat Stalls, divided by pillars supporting Gothic Arches, the +seats of the officiating Priests;—the Monuments are not numerous, there +is one however to William Glynn de Lleiar, with his figure and those of +his wife and seven children, another to his son in law George Twisleton, +Esq. of _Aula Barrow_ in Yorkshire, and in right of his wife of Lleiar; +he is generally supposed to be the same with _Colonel_ Twisleton, who was +an active officer under Cromwell, and took the gallant Sir John Owen, of +Clenenney, prisoner.—Adjoining to the Church, is the Chapel of St. Beuno; +the passage to it is a narrow vault, covered with large flat stones, and +of far greater antiquity than either Church, or Chapel, which seem nearly +coeval. The reader will not be displeased to see the following extract +from Leland, respecting this venerable old Fabrick:—“Clunnock Vawr, yn +Arvon, in the Commot of Uwch Gurvay, is a great Parish, and the fairest +Church in all Caernarvonshire, and is better than Bangor, is 15 miles +beyond it, and about the same distance as that town from the +shore.—Clunnock Vawr was some time a Monastery of White Monks, suppressed +many years ago, but the original of this Monastery was by St. Beuno, of +whom mention is made in St. Winifrede’s Life. The White Monks were of a +newer foundation. Gwytheint, uncle to one of the Princes of North Wales, +was the first giver of Clunnock Village and place to Benow. The Church +that is now there, with cross isles, is almost as big as St. David’s, but +it is of a new work; the old Church, where St. Benow lieth, is hard by +the new.” The Chapel was probably built after Leland had visited the +place, in the room of the old Church, which might have fallen to ruin. +In the middle of the Chapel was the tomb of the Saint, plain and altar +shaped, but it was in a great measure demolished, about 20 years ago, +when some workmen were employed by the late Lord Newborough, to dig in +search of the Saint’s bones. Votaries were wont to have great faith in +him, and did not doubt but that by means of a night’s lodging on his +tomb, a cure would be found for all diseases; it was customary to cover +it with rushes, and leave on it till morning sick children, after making +them first undergo ablution, in the neighbouring holy well. St. Beuno, +after he had assumed the Monastic habit, founded a Convent here in +616.—Cadvan, King of North Wales, was his great Patron, and promised him +much Land; his son, Cadwallon, performed the promise, and received from +the Saint a golden Sceptre, worth Sixty Cows; the land was afterwards +claimed, in behalf of a little infant, and his title proved good,—the +King refuses either to give other Land in lieu, or to resign the present, +Beuno cursed him and went away, but was appeased by Gwrddeint, first +cousin to the King, who overtook him, and gave the Town of Celynnog, for +ever, to God and St. Beuno, for his soul’s sake, and that of the wicked +Cadwallon. Long after his time, the Carmelites, or White Monks, had here +an establishment; they were however suppressed, sometime before the +Lincoln Taxation, in the year 1291, as the Church was then Collegiate, +consisting of five portionists or prebendaries, and it so continued to +the Dissolution. The Rectory, valued in the King’s Books at £24. is +annexed to the Headship of Jesus College, Oxford, and the Vicarage, which +is discharged, and valued at £6. is in the gift of the Bishop; here is an +excellent Vicarage House, built by the late Vicar, the Rev. John +Williams. Under the article Tiboeth, in Dr. Davies’s Welsh-Latin and +Latin-Welsh Dictionary, we have an account of a curious old M.S.: which +was preserved in this Church, called _Llyfr Beuno_ Sant, said to have +been written by Twrog, and seen here by Dr. Thomas Williams, of Trefriw, +in 1594.—This curious Relic, which has been missing many years, is said +to have been discovered lately by Mr. Edward Williams, (alias _Iolo +Morganwg_).—There is a tradition, that an Ancient British Town, situated +near this place, called _Caer Arianrhod_, was swallowed up by the Sea, +the ruins of which, it is said, are still visible, during neap tides, and +in fine weather. Many of the Kings, and principal inhabitants of the +Country, appear to have been benefactors to the original religious +establishment at this place: Cadwalader gave Grayanog,—Tegwared gave +Porthamel,—Cadell bestowed Kilcourt,—Prince Mervin, Carnguwch,—Cadwgan ap +Cynfelyn, Bodweiliog and Bodvel, in Lleyn,—Idwal endowed it with Penrhos +and Clynnog Fechan, in Anglesey, and many others, which may be seen in +Dugdale.—The offerings of calves and lambs, which happen to be born with +the NÔD BEUNO, mark of St. Beuno, (a certain natural mark in the ear,) +have now nearly ceased; they used to be brought to the Church on Trinity +Sunday, the anniversary of the Saint, and delivered to the Church +Wardens, who were accustomed to sell and account for them, and put the +value into a great Chest, called _Cyff Beuno_, made of one piece of oak, +secured with three locks, from which circumstance the Welsh in these +parts have a proverb, for attempting any difficult thing, “you may as +well try to break St. Beuno’s Chest.” The little money resulting from +the sacred Beasts, or casual offerings, were either applied to the relief +of the poor, or in aid of repairs. There is a curious antique Chalice, +preserved amongst the Communion Plate, with the following Inscription, on +the lid or cover: + + Tu Nazarenus Rex Judeorum + Fili Dei, miserere mei. + +Those who are curious in Druidical Antiquities, may see a very uncommon +Cromlech, on the Tenement of Bachwen, about half a mile from this place, +between the road and the sea. The inclination of the upper stone is to +the West, on its surface are numbers of small shallow holes, with two or +three larger than the rest, possibly for some purpose of augury; at +thirty paces distance, is an upright stone, placed, as is supposed, to +mark the limits of approach to the people, while the rites were +performing by the _Druid Priest_. On the left, as we proceed towards the +pass or defile, between the mountains, are two lofty conical hills, +called Gern Goch, and Gern Ddu; and, on the right, are those well known +by the name of Rivals (yr Eifl {159}). This Bwlch, or Pass, now called +Bwlch Llanaelhaiarn, is supposed to be the ancient Bwlch Dau Fynydd, +frequently mentioned as the scene of many a bloody battle. Near this +small Church we quit the Pwllheli road, and turn to the right towards +Nevin; but before we leave this celebrated mountain, we shall take an +opportunity of examining Tre’r Ceiri and Vortigern’s Valley; of both +which we have a long, interesting, and circumstantial account in +Pennant’s Tour.—It is very probable that the Districts of Lleyn and +Eifionydd, served as a secure retreat to the Britons in ancient times, as +most of the hills and eminences in both are strongly fortified, the names +of some of which are subjoined: Carn Madryn and Carn Boduan,—Moel Garn +Guwch,—The Rivals, Tre’r Ceiri,—Moel Ben Tyrch, between that and +Penmorva,—Gaer Tyddyn Mawr,—Castell Gwgan, remarkable for a small +circular entrenchment; and Pen y Gaer.—To these many others might be +added, but we are reminded that neither our confined limits nor the +nature of the work, will admit of very detailed or circumstantial +descriptions of either these or any other ancient fortifications, we can +therefore only touch on these subjects very superficially, and throw out +a few hints as we proceed along. + +TRE’R CEIRI.—Across a hollow, from one summit of the Rivals (Eifl) to the +other, extends an immense rampart of stones, or perhaps the ruins of a +wall, which effectually block up the pass; and near this place, on the +summit of these hills, is a most perfect and regularly fortified British +Post, called Tre’r Caerau, the Town of Fortresses, or perhaps Tre’r +Ceiri, the Town of the Giants. The most accessible side is defended by +three walls; the lowest is very imperfect, the next tolerably entire, and +has in it the grand entrance; this wall, in one part, points upwards +towards the third, and runs round the edges of the top of the hill; the +second wall unites with the first, which runs into a point, reverts and +joins the highest, in a place where the hill becomes inaccessible: the +facing on the two upper walls are very entire, especially that of the +uppermost; they are lofty, and exhibit from below a grand and extensive +front; the space on the top is an irregular area, part is steep and part +flat, and is covered with heath, which affords shelter to a few red +grouse;—the whole is almost filled with cells.—To be seen with advantage, +the station should be taken from the summit, about which the cells (which +are the foundations of the huts of the soldiers,) are very distinct, and +disposed with much art: about the middle is a square place, fenced with +stores, a sort of _Prætorium_, surrounded with two rows of cells; numbers +are also scattered about the plain, and others again are contiguous to +the wall, all along the inside. The fortifications on Pen-maen-mawr bear +a great similarity to the mode of defence adopted on this strong Post. +The cells are mostly perfect, of various forms, round, oval, oblong, and +square; some of the round are fifteen feet in diameter, of the oblong, +thirty feet in length, with long entrances, regularly faced with stone; +all of them, when inhabited, were no doubt well protected from the +weather, by roofs covered with thatch and sod. The upper wall was in +many places fifteen feet high on the outside, and often sixteen feet +broad; it consisted of two parallel and contiguous parts, one higher than +the other, serving as a parapet to the lower, which seemed to have its +walk, like that at Chester; there was in one place a cell in the +thickness of the wall, or perhaps a sally port, in part stopped by the +falling in of the stones. There is an excellent plan of this encampment +in Mr. Pennant’s Tour. We shall now descend from these elevated summits, +in order to visit Nant Gwrtheyrn, or Vortigern’s Valley, where that +Prince is said to have fled from the rage of his subjects, and where it +was said he and his Castle were consumed with lightning. His life had +been profligate, the Monks therefore were determined that he should not +die the common death of all men, and accordingly made him perish with +signal marks of the vengeance of Heaven. Fancy cannot frame a place more +fit for a retreat from the knowledge of mankind, or more apt to inspire +one with full hopes of security from any pursuit.—Embosomed in a lofty +mountain, on two sides bounded by stony steeps, on which no vegetables +appear, but the blasted heath and stunted gorse; the third side exhibits +a most tremendous front of black precipice, with the loftiest peak of the +mountain _Eifl_ soaring above, and the only opening to this secluded spot +is towards the sea, a northern aspect; the Glenn is tenanted by a few +families, who raise oats, and keep a few cattle, sheep, and goats. Just +above the sea is a high and verdant mount, natural, but the top and sides +fortified by art; on this might have been the residence of the +unfortunate Prince, of which time has destroyed every other vestige. +Till the beginning of the last century, a _tumulus_ of stone within, and +externally covered with turf, was to be seen here; it was known by the +name of _Bedd Gwrtheyrn_, tradition having regularly delivered down the +report of this having been the place of his interment. The inhabitants +of the Parish dug into the _Carn_, and found in it a stone Coffin, +containing the bones of a tall man. This gives a degree of credibility +to the tradition, especially as no other bones were found with it, no +other _tumuli_ on the spot; a proof at least of respect to the rank of +the person; and that the place was deserted after the death of the Royal +Fugitive, about the year 465. Craig y Llam, near this place, is a +tremendous lofty precipice, impending over the sea, and frequented in the +summer season by numerous flocks of migratory birds, where their nests +are ranged in regular tiers, on the ledges of this singular rock, in the +same manner as at Gogarth, near Conway before-mentioned; underneath is a +curious cave, accessible only by water, and visited in fine weather by +different parties of pleasure, who bring their provisions along with +them, and dine in the recesses of the Cliff. + +From hence we descend again to the road, pass by Pistill, a little +Chapel, annexed to Edern, and soon arrive at NEVIN, a small Town, and +Contributory Borough to Carnarvon; this place was bestowed on _Nigel de +Lohareyn_, by the Black Prince, in the twelfth year of his Principality, +and made a free borough, was allowed a Guild Mercatory with every +privilege attendant on other free Boroughs, and all the liberties and +Customs granted heretofore to that of Newborough, in Anglesey. He also +gave it a grant of two Fairs, annually, and a Market on a Sunday, to +which the Inhabitants of the Commot of Dinlleyn, were obliged to resort. +Here Edward the First, in 1284, held his triumph on the conquest of +Wales, and perhaps to conciliate the affections of his new subjects, in +imitation of our Hero Arthur, held a round table, and celebrated it with +dance and tournament, + + Where throngs of Knights and Barons bold, + In weeds of Peace, high triumphs hold; + With store of Ladies, whose bright eyes + Reign influence, and judge the prize + Of wit or arms, while both contend + To win her grace whom all commend. + +The concourse was prodigious, for not only the chief Nobility of England, +but numbers from foreign parts graced the festival with their presence. +The Gauls, as we are informed, sat at their round tables, to destroy all +dispute about precedence; and every Knight had at his back a Squire with +his Armour, in waiting. The Market is on Saturday, and the Fairs are +holden on the fourth of April, Saturday before Whitsuntide, 25th of +August, and 18th of September. The Church is dedicated to St. Mary; it +is a discharged Rectory and Vicarage, valued in the King’s Books at £2. +13_s._ 4_d._ and is in the patronage of Wynne Finch Griffith, Esq. of +Cefn Amwlch. Nevin is situated upon the Irish Channel, and has a small +Pier, which is found to be very useful for the Herring Fishery, by which +the Inhabitants principally subsist. The Herrings, about the year 1771, +were taken here is vast abundance, from Perth Ysgadan, or the Port of +Herrings, to Bardsey Island, and all along this coast; the capture +amounted usually to the value of about four thousand pounds. These +desultory fish, says Mr. Pennant, about the period above-mentioned, +appeared in July and went away in October; in earlier times, they came in +September and disappeared in November; _Dories_ are also often taken +here: the fishermen, till within these last 20 years, were wont to fling +them away, on account of their ugly appearance, however they at last +discovered that they were accounted a great luxury. Crabs and Lobsters +are also taken on this Coast, in great abundance, particularly about +Bardsey, and are conveyed to the Liverpool Market. After quitting the +small poor town of Nevin, we soon arrive at Porth Dinlleyn, near which is +a Dinas, or fortified eminence, which probably gave name not only to this +excellent harbour, but also to the Commot in which it is situated. An +attempt was made some years ago, by W. A. Madocks, Esq. and some other +gentlemen, to establish a regular communication between this place and +Ireland, and for that purpose, a new road was made from hence to +Tremadoc, and considerable sums of money were expended in erecting a +breakwater or pier-head here, building a new Inn, &c. in hopes that +Government would be prevailed upon to give this harbour the preference, +and bring the Packets here from Holyhead, and consequently that the Mail +Coaches would run this road; however, this plan, for some reasons not +known to the writer, did not succeed. From hence, Garn Madryn, and Garn +Beduan Hills make a very conspicuous appearance, near the former of which +is the seat of Parry Jones Parry, Esq. and not far from the latter is the +Church and Parish of that name, and the neglected seat of the Wynne’s, +ancestors of Lord Newborough. We then pass through the small Village of +Edeyrn or Edern; the living is a Rectory, in the gift of the Bishop, +valued in the King’s Books at £8. 5_s._ the Church is dedicated to St. +Edern. The distance from hence to Tydweiliog, the next little village, +is about three or four miles, this is a small perpetual Curacy, Church +dedicated to St. Gwyfen, a female Saint, whose festival is on the 3d of +June. Not far distant from hence, on the left of the road, are two old +Family Seats; the first is Brynodol, the property of J. Griffith, of +Llanfair, Esq. here it seems Mr. Pennant was most hospitably entertained, +by his friend the late Hugh Griffith, Esq. (father of the last-mentioned +gentleman), when he made the Tour of this part of the County. Brynodol, +by advantage of situation on the side of a hill, commands a vast view of +a flat woodless tract, the sea, and a noble mass of mountains: The Eifl +hills, Garn Boduan, and the huge Garn Madryn rise in the fore-ground, and +beyond these soars all Snowdonia, from those Alps which surround the +Wyddfa, to the most remote in the County of Merioneth. The other is +Cefnamwlch, now the property of Wynne Finch Griffith, Esq. and many years +ago the occasional residence of John Griffith, of Voelas, Esq. a +gentleman whose family, as well as that of Brynnodol, claim descent from +the Princes of Wales. From Tudweiliog to Aberdaron the distance is about +eight miles, over the Common of Rhôs Hirwen, and a flat uninteresting +Country; during this latter part of the journey, the road passes within a +short distance of several small Churches, such as Penllech and Llan +Gwnadle on the right; and Meyllteyrn and Bryncroes on the left: near this +extremity of the Promontory, are also the ruins of several little +Chapels, such as Eglwys Fair, Capel Anelog, Capel Odo, Capel Bodferyn, +Capel Cwm Dylif, &c. which proves that this part of the main land (as +well as the Island of Bardsey) was the retreat of numerous recluses and +devotees, in ancient times.—At Llan Gwnadl (alias Gwynhoydyl) is the +following inscription: S. GWYNHOYDYL IACIT HIC 750: & HÆC ÆDES ÆDIFICATA +&c. On the sea coast are several small Creeks, useful to the fishermen, +who find in them during the Herring fishery, a safe retreat from storms; +the names of some of which we shall here introduce Porth Towyn, Porth +Colman, Porth Gwylan, Porth Ysgadan, Porth Cadlan, (or Cadfan), Porth +Llywennan, Porth Orion, Porth Iago, Porth Feryn, Porth Neudwy, (or +Meudwy) Porth Samddai, &c. At a place called Hen Fonwent, not far from +the ruins of an old town, Tre Dindywydd, in the parish of Bryn croes, +several earthen pots and urns were discovered some years ago, containing +ashes and human bones; and near Ty Engion, an old stone altar was found, +called Cerrig Inco, and another near Monachdy, in the same Parish; and a +stone Coffin, (Cistfaen) on Ty mawr Farm, near the same place. There are +also several British encampments in this neighbourhood, viz. Castell +Caeron, on Mynydd y Rhiw mountain; Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum; and two +on Mynydd Cilan, in the parish of Llan Engan. Several eminences bear the +name of Pen yr Orsedd, i.e. the Throne, or Seat of Judicature, two of +these are not far distant from Nevin; and near Cefnamwlch is a Cromlech, +called Coetan Arthur. The following wells may also be mentioned as +remarkable, on account of their bearing the names of British Saints; viz. +Ffynnon Saint, Ffynnon Ddurdan, Ffynnon Cefn Llaethfaen, Ffynnon Eliw, in +the Parish of Rhiw; Ffynnon Garmon, in Aberdaron, and Ffynnon Lleuddad, +in Bryncroes. + +Aberdaron is a small fishing Village, situated on a sandy Bay, at the +extremity of the Promontory of Lleyn (_Langanum Promontorium_); the mouth +of the Bay is protected by two little Islands, called _Ynys Gwylan_; it +takes its name from the rivulet _Daron_, which here empties itself into +the sea; the inhabitants are mostly fishermen. The Church, which +consists of two aisles, supported by four handsome pillars, is dedicated +to St. Hoywyn; it was a sanctuary, and much frequented by pilgrims; +Leland says it was called Llan Engan Frenin, (_Fanum Niniani Reguli_), +but it is very probable, that the transcribers of his work must have made +a mistake, as _Llan Engan_ is seven or eight miles distant, on the road +to Pwllhely, and where there is a very curious inscription on the +Steeple, copied and explained by Mr. Rowlands. The Rectorial Tithes +belong to St. John’s College, Cambridge; the Vicarage is in the patronage +of the Bishop. This and Porth Meudwy, (a small Creek near it) were the +places where Devotees, in former times, usually embarked for Bardsey +(Enlli), and the curious stranger, who may wish to visit that Island, can +easily procure a boat here, but before he sets sail he should examine the +ruins of St. Mary’s Chapel (Capel Fair), and also our Lady’s Cave and +Well, (Ogof Mair a Ffynnon Fair,) the former is situated in a small +plain, between two hills, Uwch Mynydd a Mynydd y Gwyddel, and the latter +not far distant, nearly at the foot of a dreadful precipice called Maen +Melyn, and from which, no doubt, this Commot (Cwmmwd-maen) takes its +name. There is a most hazardous and circuitous path, down to the Cave +and Well, along which Devotees frequently descended in former days, and +even at the present time many are induced to visit the spot from +curiosity. Maen Melyn is a yellow rock, streaked with white veins, in +the middle of a black precipice, and at a distance has much the +appearance of a large dog or leopard. In the dark ages of Popish +Superstition it was supposed that if a person could descend by this path, +and bring up a mouthful of water from the well, his wish would be +certainly fulfilled; the Cape, at the end of the Promontory is called +_Penyccil_, and the ridge of hills Braich y pwll. This Chapel was placed +here, in all probability, to give the seamen an opportunity of invoking +the tutelar Saint for protection through this dangerous Sound. + +The Convent at Bardsey (Enlli) was one of the most ancient religious +Institutions in North Wales, for Eineon Frenin, one of the Regnli of the +County is said, in conjunction with Emyr Llydaw, to have founded a +College in that Island, about the middle of the 9th Century, and Lleudad +(Landatus) is generally supposed to have been the first Abbot. Dufrig, +(Dubritius) Archbishop of Caerleon, is represented in our Welsh Annals to +have resigned in favour of St. David’s, and to have retired to Bardsey, +where he died about the year 612, from which circumstance, it is evident +that there must have been a religious establishment here prior to that +period. It seems likely to have been a seat of the _Culdees_, or +_Colidei_, the first religious recluses of Great Britain, who sought +Islands and desert places, in which they might in security worship the +true God. It was certainly resorted to in very early times, for we are +assured, from undoubted authority, that it flourished as a Convent in the +days of _Cadvan_, King of Britain, who was coeval with Dubritius, it was +an Abbey, dedicated to St. Mary, and in the _Sebright_ MSS. a petition is +recorded, says Mr. Pennant, from the Abbot to Edward II. in which he sets +forth the injuries he had received from the Sheriff of Carnarvon, who had +extorted from him 68_s._ 6_d._ contrary to his Deed of ffeoffment, on +which the King directed Roger de Mortimer, Justiciary of Wales, to make +enquiry into the matter, who reported that the Abbot held his Lands, in +the County of Carnarvon, in puram et perpetuam elemosynam, without any +service or secular acknowledgment; and further, that David, Lord of +Lleyn, and brother to the last Prince of Wales, had exacted the same sum, +as did his _Pencynydd_, or Master of his Dogs, possibly under pretence of +maintaining them; the King therefore, by his special favor, and by advice +of his Council, does for ever remit the said sum and all arrears, and +directs that no one in future, either on his account or that of his +heirs, ever should molest the Convent. The slaughter of the Monks, at +Bangor Iscoed, about the year 607, is supposed to have contributed to the +population of this Island, for not only the brethren who escaped, but +numbers of other pious Britons fled hither, to avoid the rage of the +Saxons. + +There is a most curious, though superstitious document, still extant, +written in Latin, in which it is asserted, that in consequence of the +prayers of Holy Lleudad (Sanctus Laudatus) one of the first Abbots, and +in consideration of the good and pious lives of the first Members of this +Convent, the Almighty granted them the strange and uncommon privilege of +departing out of this mortal life by seniority, so that like grapes in +the vintage, (as it is there expressed) the most ripe (i.e. the eldest) +was cut down first; and that this continued to be the case for many +years, until these once Holy Brethren became again degenerated, and +relapsed into various sins and vices, so that the Almighty was incensed +against them, and summoned them hence, like the rest of mankind, without +any respect to age or seniority.—This may serve as a specimen of the +numerous tales and legends, invented by these and other idle and bigotted +Monks. + +This small Island, according to the Welsh History, afforded _asylum_, +during life, to twenty thousand reputed Saints, and, after death, graves +to as many of their bodies; well therefore might it be called _Insula +Sanctorum_, Isle of Saints; but, with Dr. Fuller, it must be observed, +that it would be much easier to find graves in Bardsey, for so many +Saints, than Saints for so many graves.—Nine hundred of these Devotees +are said to have fled hither from the Massacre of the Monks, at Bangor +Iscoed, in Flintshire. + +The following are the names of some of the first Abbots, and reputed +Saints, who are said to have been buried there: + +1. Lleudad, (Laudatus) the first Abbot. + +2. Dufrig, (Dubricius) once Arch Bishop of Caerlleon ar Wysg, or +Llandaf. + +3. St. David, who retired hither from the Synod of Brevi, (Llan Ddewi +Brefi). + +4. Cadvan, who came to Wales from Llydaw, or Armorica, attended by the +following persons: Padarn, Hywyn, Sulien, Tanwg, Tydecho, Tecwyn, and +many others. + +5. Dewrdan, or Dwrdan, from whom Bodwrda, in this neighbourhood is +supposed to have been so called, or from Cowrda, to whom Abererch Church +is dedicated. + +6. Daniel, first Bishop of Bangor. + +7. Beuno, to whom Clynnog Fawr is dedicated. + +8. Myrddin ap Morfryn, (or Merlinus Caledonius or Sylvestris). + +9. Hywyn ap Gwnda Hên, Steward to Cadvan, and to the Saints at Bardsey. + +10. Dervel, to whom Llan Dderfel in Merionethshire is dedicated. + +11. Eineon, or Engan Frenin, King of Lleyn. + +12. Cawrdaf St. at Abererch. + +13. Cadwallawn ap Owen Gwynedd, Abbot in the year 1169. + +14. Thomas ap Griffith Nicholas, of Dinevor, in South Wales, who was +killed in a Duel at Penal, in Merionethshire, was buried here. + +15. Griffith ap Thomas, nephew of Griffith ap Nicholas, was interred +here. + +16. Hugh ap Richard ap Sion ap Madog, of Bodwrda, was buried here, in +the time of Queen Elizabeth.—See William Lleyn’s Elegy on his Death. + +This little Inland, at present contains about twelve or fifteen houses, +and about sixty or seventy inhabitants, who are mostly fishermen.—It +produces very good barley, and round its coast are great plenty of fish, +and abundance of Lobsters, which are mostly sent (as before observed) to +the Liverpool Market. + +The revenues of the Monastery, at the general Dissolution, amounted, +according to Dugdale, to £46. 1s. 4d. Tradition says, that Aberdaron, +Bryn-croes, and Nevin, originally belonged to Bardsey, but at present the +Tythes of those three Parishes, are the property of the Cefn Amwlch +Family; and it is very probable that one of their ancestors purchased +them of the King (Henry VIII.) or his Ministers at that time. This +Island was granted by Edward VI. to his Uncle, Sir T. Seymour, and +afterwards to John, Earl of Warwick; and the present proprietor’s father +purchased it from Dr. Wilson of Newark. A tenement, called Court, in the +Parish of Aberdaron, originally belonged to Bardsey, and was granted and +purchased with the Inland, as before described. Part of Lleyn is to this +day, called the Lordship or Manor of Bardsey, and a kind of Leet Court is +still held, occasionally, either at Aberdaron, Bryncroes or Tydweiliog, +which is called the Court of the Lord of the Manor of Bardsey. The +present Lord of the Manor is the Marquis of Anglesey; there are also a +Recorder, Bailiff and Constable, attached to this Lordship. The Court +was probably held, formerly, at the above-mentioned Farm, which still +bears the name of Court; and not far off is another place, called _Secar_ +(Exchequer), and it seems there was a prison or gaol there, for near it +is a hill, called Brynn y Grogbren, or Gallows Hill.—In general, when any +of the Inhabitants die, they are brought to Aberdaron for interment; but +in very stormy weather, the corpse is buried in the old Abbey Church +yard, and the person who is best qualified reads the funeral service. +Many years ago, when some of the Inhabitants had been to a Mill at +Aberdaron, a great tempest arose on their return, and they were blown to +the Coast of Cardiganshire, and landed in safety. A Light House is very +much wanted on this Island, as, for want of such an object to direct +them, Vessels are driven on Sarn Badrig-Goffrydiau-Caswennan, and other +dangerous rocks, and many lives lost every year. We are happy to add, +that such a building is at present in contemplation. There are several +Welsh Poems still extant, addressed to some of the Abbots.—Not far from +hence is Carreg, the seat of Robert Thomas Carreg, Esq. now resident at +Cefn mine. + +The distance from Aberdaron to Pwllheli is about twenty miles; the road +along the sea coast by Llanfaelrhys, Rhiw, Llandegwnning, Llan Engan, and +Llanbedrog, is the most interesting.—On a part of the Promontory, called +_Penrhyn Du_, in former years, have been considerable adventurers for +Lead Ore, and attempts to drain the mines, by means of a fire Engine, but +the expences proved to exceed the profits.—The dangerous Bay, between +Rhiw Mountain (Mynydd y Rhiw) and Penrhyn Du, is called by the Sailors +Hell’s Mouth, being considered the _Scylla_ to the Charybdis of Sarn +Badrig, whose extremity lies nearly opposite; and if the mariners can +pass between these two, there is a very secure anchorage for ships of +large burthen, at a place called the St. Tudwal Roads, near the two +Islands of that name, on the largest of which are the remains of a small +Chapel, dedicated to that reputed Saint.—At Abersoch, near this place, is +also a small but safe harbour, where barley and other articles, the +produce of this part of the County, are exported, and coals, &c. +imported. At Gelliwig, which _was_ (for we greatly regret to hear that +he is lately dead) the residence of Colonel Evan Jones, a gentleman who, +as a brave and enterprizing officer, distinguished himself in several +campaigns, particularly in Egypt, under Sir Ralph Abercrombie; the writer +cannot refrain from paying this tribute to departed worth, for he was +certainly an honor to his country, and greatly beloved by all who knew +him. And at Nanhoron, in this neighbourhood, is the elegant and +hospitable seat of Colonel Edwards, one of the few gentlemen who +constantly reside in the country, and give regular employment to a number +of poor labourers, and set a good example to their tenantry in +Agricultural improvements. The following inscription was transcribed +from a Monument, erected to the memory of his brave father, Captain +Edwards, in the Parish Church of Llan Gian: + + “Sacred to the memory of Timothy Edwards, Esq. of Nanhoron, who, + being appointed to the command of the Cornwall Man of War, of 74 + Guns, in the year 1777, and having, in the course of a twelve-month, + distinguished himself in four successive engagements, in the West + Indies, against the French Fleet, was unfortunately, on his return + home, carried off by a bilious fever, on the 12th of July, 1780, aged + 49, before he had received those honors from his King and Country, + which were destined to be the reward of his gallant and faithful + services.—His disconsolate widow, penetrated with the deepest regret, + for her irreparable loss, caused this Monument to be erected. + + “_In cœlo quies_.” + +Llyn, or Lleyn, is a very extensive Hundred, in general flat, but +interspersed with most characteristic hills or rocks, rising insulated in +several parts; none makes so conspicuous a figure as Carn Madryn, Carn +Boduan, and Mynydd Mynytho, (Mann-noeth-wy); the country, of late years, +is greatly improved, owing to the laudable example of the resident +gentlemen. The chief produce is oats, barley, pigs, and black cattle; it +is supposed that above three thousand of the latter are annually sold out +of these parts; much oats, barley, butter and cheese, are exported.—The +land is good, particularly for grazing, being watered by a thousand +rills; it is in general destitute of trees, except near gentlemen’s +seats,—the example of planting, set by men of property, is however +rapidly spreading; and by an Act, passed some years ago, many of the +commons and waste lands have been enclosed, and brought into a state of +cultivation. Giraldus Cambrensis, in his Itinerarium Cambriæ, says, that +the Cantreds of Lleyn and Eifionydd were the possessions of Owen +Gwynedd’s children, when he passed through Wales, and that they had two +Castles, one at Carn Madryn, and the other at Penrhyn Deudraeth. +Castellmarch, in this neighbourhood, is an old family seat, now the +property of Thomas Asheton Smith, Esq. of Vaenol. Margaret Griffith, +heiress of Plas mawr, in Carnarvon, and Trefarthen, in Anglesey, married +Griffith Jones, of Castellmarch, in Llyn, Esq. and her daughter Margaret +Jones, heiress of Castellmarch, married Sir William Williams, of Vaenol, +Baronet. Not far from the road is Wern fawr, now in ruins, the property +of Parry Jones Parry, Esq. of Madryn. Near Llanbedrog is the Cottage, +the residence of Lloyd Caldecot, Esq. and before we enter Pwllheli, is +Bodegroes, the hospitable seat of Glynn Griffith, Esq. and not far +distant is Bodvel, {179} an old house, which had the honor of giving +birth to the celebrated Mrs. Piotzi. + +PWLLHELI is the principal Town in this part of the County, and the +Magazine of Goods which supplies all this tract; it lies near the sea +shore, and has a tolerable harbour for vessels of about 60 tons: Leland +styles it “statio optima Carinis.” The entrance is by a high rock, +called Carreg y Wimbill, (the Gimlet,) which is near a mile from land, to +which it is joined by a range of sand hills. This place, as well as +Nevin, was made a free Borough, by the Black Prince, by Charter, dated +the 12th year of his Principality, at Carnarvon, in compliment to _Nigel +_{180}_ de Loryng_, or _Lohareyn_, one of the gentlemen of his +bedchamber, on whom he had bestowed, Nevin and Pwllhely, in consideration +of his great service in _Gascony_, and particularly at the Battle of +_Poitiers_. He entitles him to “servitiis quorumcunque tenentium tam +liberorum quam nativorum,” by which it may be presumed, that he did not +include the Welsh in the privileges; what those were we do not learn, but +they were the same which the Burgesses of Rosfair, in Anglesey enjoyed, +and for them Pwllheli was to pay to Nigel fourteen pounds a year, and +Nevin thirty-two. This Borough and Nevin, he freely bestowed on him, +with all its appurtenances, together with four _librates_ of Land, +towards the repairs of his Manors, and for all these he was only to pay +an acknowledgment of a rose, in lieu of all services; if he died without +issue the whole was to revert to the crown. Edward III. afterwards +confirmed these grants to _Sandwich_. Denio, the Parish Church, (or +rather a Chapel to the Vicarage of Llannor) stands on a hill about half a +mile out of the Town; it is dedicated to St. Beuno. The Markets are on +Wednesdays and Saturdays, and the Fairs on the 5th of March, 13th of May, +28th of June, 19th of August, 24th of September, and 11th of November. +Pwllheli is a safe and good harbour, as we before observed, and well +sheltered from all winds, but a Perch is much wanted at the extreme end +of the _Gimlet Rock_. This is one of the Contributory Boroughs with +Carnarvon, in returning one Member to Parliament; it is a Corporate Town, +and is governed by a Mayor, two Bailiffs, and a Recorder. The Petty +Sessions for the District are held here. An Embankment has been made +within these few years, on both sides of the Town, by which several +hundred acres have been recovered, the greatest part of which used to be +overflowed by the high tides. Pwllheli has as excellent beach for Sea +bathing, and is likely to become a place of resort in the Summer season, +for that purpose. The number of inhabitants in 1811, was nearly thirteen +hundred. The Prince (says Leland) had a place here, as yet appeareth. + +The distance from Pwllheli to Tremadoc is about 15 miles; the first +village on the road is Abererch, situated on the river Erch, and partly +in the Cwmwd (Commot) of Dinlleyn, Cantref of Lleyn, and partly in the +Cwmwd of Eifionydd, Cantref of Dunodig. The Church is dedicated to Saint +Cawrdaf; it is a discharged Vicarage, valued in the King’s Books at £6. +Patron, the Bishop of Bangor. The number of inhabitants, in 1811, was +about 1100. In this Church was buried Sir Thomas Pulesten, a +distinguished favorite of Edward 1st. who was killed in 1282.—The next +Parish is Llanarmon, the Church is dedicated to St. Garmon. At Plas Du +in this Parish, was born that celebrated Epigrammatist, John Owen; this +place gave birth also to the Rev. John Evans, S. Th. P. Bishop of Bangor, +in 1715, and afterwards of Meath, in Ireland.—On the road to Carnarvon is +Trallwyn, the seat of J. E. Lloyd, Esq. and not far distant, Glasfryn, +Rev. Thomas Ellis; as we proceed, pass, on the left, Hendre, Rev. Thomas +Roberts, and pretty near it Werglodd fawr, R. Jones, Esq. After passing +the junction of the Pwllheli and Nevin Roads, soon reach Llanystumdwy, a +Church and Village, situated near a river, in a well-sheltered little +Vale, beautifully wooded; the Church is dedicated to St. John the +Baptist.—Near this place are a great number of gentlemen’s seats: Plas +Hen, now the property of Sir Thomas Mostyn, Bart. once the seat of Evan +Lloyd Vaughan, Esq. by marriage with an heiress of the name of Vaughan, a +descendant of _Collwyn ap Tangno_; she afterwards married William Lloyd, +a younger son of Bod-Idris: this William Lloyd was Sheriff in 1648, and +was killed in a skirmish near Bangor, by Sir John Owen. Near it is +Gwynfryn, late the property of David Ellis Nanney, Esq. Attorney-General +on this Circuit, now the residence of his nephew, O. J. E. Nanney, Esq.; +a little nearer Crickaeth, to the left of the road, is Trefan, late the +property of Rev. Z. Hughes, now the seat of Mrs. Priestley.—To these may +be added Sgubor Hen, Aberkin, Ty Newydd, Rev. J. Kyffin; Mynydd Ednyfed, +Rev. Mr. Jones, Rector of Crickaeth; and Brynhir, now unoccupied. In +this neighbourhood are the ruins of a small Chanel, called Bettws; and +not far distant is Chwilog, an old House, which formerly belonged to the +ancestors of Sir Howell y Fwyall, our celebrated Countryman, who attended +the Black Prince to the Battle of _Poitiers_, and, according to our Welsh +Bards, was the person who took the French King prisoner, though that +honor is generally bestowed on _Denis de Morebeque_, a Knight of +_Artois_.—Our brave countryman, however, undoubtedly behaved on the +occasion with distinguished valour, for the Black Prince not only +bestowed on him the Constableship of Crickaeth Castle, which he +afterwards made his residence, but Knighted him, and in perpetual +memorial of his good services, ordered, that from thenceforth, a mess of +meat should be served up before the pole-axe, with which he performed +such great feats; for that reason he bore it in his Coat of Arms, and was +styled (as before-mentioned) Syr Howel y Fwyall, or of the _Axe_. After +the Mess had appeared before the Knight, it was carried down and bestowed +on the poor; Eight Yeomen attendants were constituted to guard the Mess, +and had eight-pence a day, constant wages, at the King’s charge; and +these, under the name of Yeomen of the Crown, were continued on the +establishment till the Reign of Queen Elizabeth, and it is supposed by +many that the Yeomen of the Crown are indebted to these for their origin. +After the death of Sir Howel, the Mess was carried as before, and +bestowed on the poor, for the _sake of his soul_, in the time of Popery, +and probably as low as the period above-mentioned.—Sir John Wynne, in his +History of the Gwydir family; informs us that this Sir Howel was also +Constable of Chester Castle, and had also Dwyfor, and others, the King’s +Mills, to farm, and a grant of the Weirs and Fisheries on this Coast, +besides many other offices of great trust and profit. + +Crickaeth Cattle is situated on conical rock, jutting far into the sea, +and the Isthmus crossed, by way of defence, by two deep ditches; on each +side of the entrance is a great round Tower; the Court is of an irregular +form, and has the remains of a square Tower, beyond is another Court, and +in it, on the verge of the rock, are two others, also square. It is +probable that all the Towers were originally square, for the insides of +the two round Towers are of that form; they have so much the appearance +of the Architecture of Dolyddelen Castle, that it is probable this Castle +was founded by a Welsh Prince, and that Edward the First did no more than +case the Towers, which at present are the two rounders; after the +conquest, Edward appointed William de Leybourne to be Constable, with a +Salary of One Hundred Pounds a year, for which he was to maintain a +garrison of 30 men, one Chaplain, one Surgeon, one Carpenter, and one +Mason. + +On our way to Penmorva and Tremadoc, pass by Stumllyn, formerly the seat +of the Wynnes, now the property of — Jones, Esq. of Machynlleth. Several +Antiquities are scattered over this part of the County; near Dolbenmaen, +is a large Mount, on which might have been, as Mr. Rowlands conjectures, +a Watch Tower. Near Ystum Cegid are three _Cromlechs_, joining to each +other, possibly memorials of three Chieftains slain on the spot. And +near _Clenenney_, on _Bwlch_ Craig Wenn, is a fine Druidical Circle, +consisting, at present, of thirty-eight stones; at a mile’s distance and +within sight of this, above _Penmorva_, is another. On Llysdin Farm, +were lately discovered, some small Urns, containing human bones and +ashes. Not far distant from hence, in the Parish of Llanfihangel y +Pennant, is BRYNKIR, once the seat of a family of that name, now the +property of J. Huddart, Esq. at present Sheriff for this County; Lord +Lyttleton, whose Letters from Wales are well known, and were published at +the end of Bingley’s first Tour, remained here for several days, on a +visit to one of the Brynkirs, and during his stay ascended Moel Hedog, +which divides this Country from the Vale of Bethgelert. The present +proprietor has built a new house here, and made other great improvements. + +In remote days, this part of Eifionydd was possessed by two Clans, one +descended from _Owen Gwywedd_, Prince of North Wales, and consisted of +the houses of _Cessail Gyfarch_, _Ystum Cegid Clenenney_, _Brynker_ and +_Glasfryn_, or _Cwmystrallyn_; the other was derived from _Collwyn ap +Tangno_, and consisted of the houses of _Chwilog_, _Bron y Foel_, +_Berkin_, _Gwynfryn_, _Tal Hen bont_, (now Plas Hen) and _Pennardd_.—The +feuds of these two parties filled the land with blood. The history of +our Country, during that period, is the History of revenge, perfidy, and +slaughter. This consideration induced _Meredith ap Jevan_, ancestor of +the Wynne’s of Gwydir, to quit this his paternal country—“I had rather,” +says he, “fight with out-laws and thieves, than with my own blood and +kindred;—If I live in my own house, in Efionydd, I must either kill my +own kindred, or be killed by them.” There was not a house in the +hundred, as Mr. Pennant observes, that had not its dreadful tale,—they +would quarrel, says Sir John Wynne, if it was but for the mastery of the +country, and the first good morrow; John Owen ap John ap Meredydd, and +Howel ap Madoc Vychan fell out for no other reason: Howel and his people +fought valiantly,—when he fell, his mother placed her hand on his head, +to prevent the fatal blow, and had half her hand and three of her fingers +cut off by some of her nearest kindred. An attempt was made to kill +Howel ap Rhys, in his own house, by the sons of John ap Meredith, for no +other reason but that their servants had quarrelled about a Fishery; they +first set fire to the Mansion, with great bundles of straw,—the besieged, +terrified with the flames, sheltered themselves under forms and benches, +while RHYS, the old Hero, stood, sword in hand, reproaching his men with +cowardice, and telling them he had often seen a greater smoke in that +Hall on Christmas-even. These flagitious deeds seldom met with any other +punishment than what resulted from private revenge, and too often +composition was made for the most horrible murders. There was a +_gwerth_, or price of blood, from the slaughter of a King, to the cutting +off one of his subject’s little fingers. + +The Village of Penmorva is situated in a nook, between some high rocks, +at the end of a tract of meadows, formerly subject to the over-flowing of +the higher tides, till an embankment was made by W. A. Madocks, Esq. a +gentleman to whom this part of the County is greatly indebted for +numerous and great improvements, particularly for the erection of an +embankment, about a mile in length, in order to reclaim some thousand +acres of land, and which now forms a safe and convenient road between the +Counties of Carnarvon and Merionneth, across the Estuary of Traethmawr, +whereas formerly many lives were lost in going over these dangerous +sands. In the Church of Penmorva, which is dedicated to St. Beuno, was +interred that valiant Knight, Sir John Owen, besides the monument to his +memory, there is another to Sir William Morris, of Clenenney, who died +August 11, 1622. Tremadoc, a new Town, which bears the name of its +Founder, is about a mile distant from Penmorva, and contains from Eighty +to a Hundred Houses.—Here is a handsome new Church, a Market-Place, a +comfortable Inn, and a great number of good Shops: near the Town are also +several good Houses built by the same Gentleman, particularly Tan yr +Allt, Morva Lodge, &c.; all of which, as well as every thing in and about +this small Town, evidently prove the individual who planned and conducted +the whole, to be a person of cultivated mind, improved taste, and +superior judgment and ability.—A Market has been established here, and +the Fairs which used to be at Penmorva on the following days, March 6, +May 14, August 20, September 25, and November 12, have mostly deserted +that place, and are held at Tremadoc.—Here is an excellent Salmon +Fishery—a good shore for Bathing—and a safe Harbour for Vessels under 120 +Tons burthen. It is greatly to be lamented, that the beneficial +improvements projected by the before-mentioned public spirited Gentleman +W. A. Madocks, Esq. and carried by him to such a state of forwardness; +should not be completed. In the Year 1625, Sir John Wynne, of Gwydir, +conceived the great design of gaining this immense track, (Traeth mawr) +as well as the lesser one, (Traeth bach) from the Sea, by means of an +Embankment; and for that purpose he implored the assistance of his +illustrious Countryman Sir Hugh Middleton, in a Letter which has been +preserved, and together with that Gentleman’s reply, printed in Mr. +Pennant’s Tour. A Bridge over Traeth bach, and a new line of Road along +the Sea Coast to Barmouth, and a Stage Coach, or some other more regular +mode of conveyance between North and South Wales, particularly during the +Summer Months, are still left among the _desiderata_ of this portion of +the Principality. + + * * * * * + + + + +_Ancient Divisions of the County_. + +_Cantref_, _or _Commots_. (_Cwmmwd_.) +Hundred_. +NANT GONWY, Uwch Conwy, + + Is Conwy, + + Trefrew. +ABER, Llechwedd Ucha, + + Llechwedd Issa. +ARVON, Uwch Gwyrfai, + + Is Gwyrfai. +LLEYN, Cymmytmaen, + + Cyfflogion, or Canologion, + + Dinlleyn. +EIFIONYDD, was one of the Commots of the Cantref of Dunodig, and +Arduwy was the other. +CREUDDIN, is a Commot in the Cantref, or Hundred, of Rhôs. + +APPENDIX. + + + A + _CATALOGUE_ + OF THE + RECTORIES, VICARAGES, AND CHAPELS, + IN THE + County of Caernarvon; + WITH THEIR + _DEDICATIONS_, _SAINT DAYS_, _AND PATRONS_. + +V. BANGOR, St. Daniel Dec. 1 Bishop of + Bangor +C. Pentir, _a._ St. Cedol Nov. 1 Bishop of +Capel Bangor +R. Llanddiniolen St. Diniolen Nov. 23 Lord Chancellor +C. Llanfair Isgaer St. Mary Sept. 8 Lord Newborough +C. Bettws Garmon St. Garmon July 31 Lord Newborough +V. Llanberis St. Peris June 26 Bishop of + Bangor +R. Llanrug St. Michael Sept. 29 Bishop of + Bangor +V. Llanwnda St. Beuno April 21 Bishop of + Bangor +C. Llanfaglan St. Baglan Bishop of + Bangor +R. Llandwrog St. Twrog June 26 Bishop of + Bangor +V. Llanbeblic St. Peblic July 4 Bishop of + Chester +C. Carnarvon St. Mary Feb. 2 Bishop of + Chester +R. Llanllyfni St. Credyw Nov. 11 Bishop of + Bangor +R. Llanaelhaiarn St. Elhaiarn Nov. 1 Bishop of + Bangor +R. Clynnog St. Beuno April 21 Impropriation + Jes. Col. Ox. +C. Llandegai St. Tygai June 16 Tithes + appropriated to + the Archdeacon + of Bangor +C. Capel Curig St. Curig June 16 Tithes + appropriated to + the Archdeacon + of Bangor +R. Llanllechid St. Llechid Dec. 2 Bishop of + Bangor +R. Aber St. Bodvan Jan. 2 Lord Newborough +R. Llanfair Vechan St. Mary Sept. 8 Bishop of + Bangor +C. Dwygyfylche St. Gwnning Jan. 31 Bishop of + Bangor +V. Conway Lord Viscount + Bulkeley +R. Gyffin St. Benedict March 22 Ap. to Deanery + of Bangor +R. Llangelynin St. Celynin Nov. 2 Bishop of + Bangor +R. Llanbedr St. Peter June 29 Bishop of + Bangor +V. Caerhun St. Mary Sept. 8 Bishop of + Bangor +R. Trefryw St. Mary Sept. 8 Bishop of + Bangor +C. Llanrhychwyn St. Rhychwyn June 10 Appropriated to + the + Archdeaconry of + Bangor +C. Bettws y Coed St. Michael Sept. 29 Appropriated to + the + Archdeaconry of + Bangor +C. Dolwyddelen St. Gwyddeien Aug. 22 Appropriated to + the + Archdeaconry of + Bangor +V. Llandudno St. Tudno June 5 Appropriated to + the + Archdeaconry of + Bangor +V. Penmachno St. Tudclyd May 30 Sir R. W. + Vaughan, Bart. +R. Aberdaron St. Howyn Jan. 6 St. John’s + College, +V. Aberdaron Cambridge +C. Llanvaelrhys St. Maelrhys Jan. 1 Bishop of + Bangor +R. Rhyw St. Elrhyw Sept. 9 Bishop of + Bangor +C. Llandudwen St. Tudwen Oct. 27 Bishop of + Bangor +R. Mellteyrn St. Peter Aug. 1 Bishop of + Bangor +C. Bottwnog St. Beuno April 29 Bishop of + Bangor +R. Llan Engan St. Engan Feb. 9 Bishop of + Bangor +V. Llangwynodl St. Gwynodl Jan. 1 Bishop of + Bangor +C. Tydweiliog St. Gwyfan June 3 Bishop of + Bangor +R. Llanbedrog St. Pedroc June 4 Bishop of + Bangor +C. Llangian St. Peris Dec. 11 Bishop of + Bangor +C. Llanfihangel St. Michael Sept. 29 Bishop of + Bangor +R. Bodean St. Buan Aug. 9 Bishop of + Bangor +V. Nevin St. Mary Aug. 15 Bishop of + Bangor +R. Edern St. Edern Dec. 2 Bishop of + Bangor +C. Pistill St. Beuno April 21 Bishop of + Bangor +C. Carnguwch St. Beuno April 21 Bishop of + Bangor +R. Llannor St. Beuno Sept. 14 Appropriated to + the + Archdeaconry of + Bangor +C. Pwllhely St. Beuno April 21 Appropriated to + the + Archdeaconry of + Bangor +V. Abererch St. Courda Dec. 5 Bishop of + Bangor +C. Penrhos St. Cynfil Bishop of + Bangor +R. Llanjestin St. Jestin Oct. 10 Bishop of + Bangor +C. Penllech St. Mary Aug. 5 Bishop of + Bangor +C. Bodveryn St. Meryn Jan. 6 Bishop of + Bangor +C. Llandegwnning St. Gwnning Dec. 31 Bishop of + Bangor +C. Ceidio St. Ceidiaw Nov. 2 W. Bodvil, Esq. +R. Penmorfa St. Beano April 21 Bishop of + Bangor +R. Crickieth St. Catherine Nov. 25 Bishop of + Bangor +R. Llangybi St. Cybi Nov. 5 Appropriated to + the + Archdeaconry of + Merionethsh. +C. Llanarmon St. Garmon July 1 Appropriated to + the + Archdeaconry of + Merionethsh. + + * * * * * + +About the year 525, Daniel ap Dunawd, Abbot of Bangor Is Coed, in +Flintshire, built a College in Caernarvonshire, for the instruction of +youth and support of the Clergy of this part of North Wales; and probably +designed it as a Cell, or member of the other Bangor, and continued so +till Prince Maelgwn, or Maelgwyn Gwynedd, a wicked Prince in his youth, +but reformed in his advanced age, among other works of Piety, created +this College into a Bishoprick, and Archbishop Dubricius, or Dyfrig, +consecrated the said Daniel Bishop thereof, about the year 550; and about +four years after, he died, December 10, and was buried at Bardsey, or +Enlli. There is but a very slender account of Daniel’s successors till +after the Conquest; from which time there seems to be a regular +succession of Prelates in this See, though by reason of the wars, they +had not all of them a quiet enjoyment. The Revenues of this Bishoprick +were valued 25th Henry VIII. at £151 3_s._ 8_d._; the clear value £134 +16_s._ 4_d._ The next account is, that according to Bede, there was a +Bishop here, St. Awstin the Monk, who is called Ellodu, Anno Dom. 601. +However, Elbodius was certainly Bishop of North Wales, and died, as some +say, A.D. 806, others 811. There is no account who succeeded him. +Gildas Cambrensis dedicated his Book to a Bishop of Venetia; he +flourished A.D. 860. Mordaf is mentioned by Wynne to have gone to Rome +about the year 940; about the confirmation of Howel Dda’s Laws. + +Hervey, surnamed Cruste, was consecrated Bishop of Bangor, between the +years 1089 and 1093, by Thomas, Archbishop of York; and so continued for +15 or 16 years; but using too great severity, he was very ill liked by +the Welsh, who at last murdered his Brother, and threatened to do the +same with him, whereupon he retired into England, to Henry I. for +protection, who assigned him the Abbey of Ely, which he got converted +into a Bishoprick, and quitted Bangor A.D. 1109, and died at Ely 1131, +where he was buried. + +Urban, bishop of Landaff, governed this see, and took the care thereof +upon him, probably till 1119, when he began to be fully occupied in +looking after his charge in Landaff, and rebuilding his church. + +David, a Scot, was consecrated April 4, 1120, in which year he consented +to the translation of the reliques of St. Dubricius to Landaff, out of +his own Diocese, at the request of Bishop Urban; he is mentioned 1127, +and his successor was + +Meuruc, or Maurice, consecrated A.D. 1139: he was presented to the +Archdeaconry by Bishop David, and at first refused taking the oath to the +King of England, though afterwards he was with some difficulty persuaded +to it; he died A.D. 1161, and was succeeded by + +William Priors, of St. Austin’s, Bristol, A.D. 1162, a very religious and +pious man; who was succeeded by + +Guy Rufus, Monk of Walham, in the County of Essex, who was consecrated at +Ambrosebury, in July 1177; in the year 1188, he accompanied Baldwyn, +Archbishop of Canterbury, in his progress through Wales, and died about +two years after, 1190: he was succeeded by + +Giraldus Cambrensis, who was elected to the See in 1190, but he refused +to accept of it then; so it continued vacant till the election of + +Alban, or Albanus, Prior of St. John’s, Jerusalem, consecrated April 16, +1195: he died the year following, and was succeeded by + +Robert, of Shrewsbury, who was consecrated the 18th of March. He died in +1213, and was buried by his own appointment in the Market-place at +Shrewsbury; after his death the See became vacant for two years, when + +Martin, Abbot of Albaland, was consecrated June 16, 1215; he sat but a +little time, for in the same year we find + +Cadwgan, who, as Brown Willis says, is the same with Martin, the one +being the name he was known by in England, and the other his original +Welsh name; Godwin, says he was Abbot of Llandefid, and being released +from his Episcopal charge A.D. 1236, he retired to the Abbey of Dover, in +the County of Hereford, and became a Monk, giving the Convent all his +goods: he died in 1241, on the 11th of April, and was buried there. + +Howel’s Cong’ d‘Elire, is dated June 7, 1236: he dedicated a Monastry +built by Llywelyn Prince of Wales, at Llanfaes, in Anglesey; over the +grave of Joan his wife, daughter of John, King of England, whose pleasure +it was to be buried there. + +Richard succeeded, and was consecrated A.D. 1240, or rather 1238 or 1237; +because in his Letter to the Pope to resign his Bishoprick, which was +about 1268, he pleads his having been Bishop 30 years and upwards. + +Anian, Archdeacon of Anglesey, succeeded Richard, and had the +Temporalities restored Dec. 12, 1268. He is reported to have held a +synod 1291, at St. Mary’s, de Garth Brannan, the ancient Parish Church of +Bangor: he also christened Edward II. in Caernarvon Castle, April 25, +1284. + +Cadwgan succeeded Asian in 1306; he enjoyed it but a short time, for we +meet with the consecration of + +Griffith ap Iorwerth, on March 26, 1307, on whose death, which happened +1309 + +Anian Sais, was elected Bishop Sep. 18, 1309, and consecrated Nov. 9th +following; he died Jan. 20, 1327. + +Matthew de Englefield, Son of Iorwerth ap Ririd, Archdeacon of Anglesey, +aged 40, succeeded, being elected Feb. 25, 1327, confirmed April 25, and +consecrated June 12, 1328: he granted Bangor a Charter to keep a Fair on +St. Luke’s Day: he died April 25, 1357. + +Thomas de Ringstead, S. S. T. P. of Oxford, a Dominican, succeeded, being +nominated by the Pope, consecrated Aug. 27, received the Spiritualities +Nov. 1357; he died at the Grey Friers in Shrewsbury, and was buried at +Huntingdon, he is said to have given £100 for the repairs of this +Cathedral. + +Gervase de Castro, (probably the same with Gervase Fitz David, who occurs +Archdeacon A.D. 1351) Canon of Bangor, a Dominican, succeeded Dec. 11, +1366; received the Spiritualities Feb. 17th following, and died Sep. +1370. + +Howel ap Grono, Dean of this Church, seems to have succeeded April 16, +1371; he received the Spiritualities July 31, 1371, and going to settle +matters to Rome, he died there, as Brown Willis says, in _Curia Romana_. + +John Gilbert, a Friar preacher, succeeded March 17, 1371, received the +Spiritualities July 16, 1372; and the 16th of November following made his +profession of obedience to the See of Canterbury Sep. 12, 1375; he was +translated to Hereford, and afterward to St. David’s; he died in London, +July 28, 1397. + +John Swafham, S. Th. P. of Cambridge, a Carmelite of Lynn, in the County +of Norfolk, Bishop of Cloyne in Ireland, A.D. 1363, was translated to +this See July 2, 1376. There was a Charter granted him in 1387, about +appropriating Llan Ynys, and Llan Fair, to the repair of the Church, and +support of four Chaplains, to officiate in the Choir: he continued Bishop +till 1394, and so no doubt till the election of + +Richard Young, L.L.D. Oct. 21, 1399, or May 20, 1400, who had the +Temporalities restored in 1404. He was translated to Rochester, where he +died. + +Benedict Nicholas, called also Nicholas Bennett, Rector of Stapleland, in +the County of Wilts, and of Conyngton, in the County of Huntington, which +he resigned A.D. 1417, he received the Temporalities July 22, at the +request of Arundel, Archbishop of Canterbury, and the Spiritualities, +Aug. 10th following: he was afterwards removed to St. David’s, Dec. 15, +1417, whereby room was made for + +William Barrow, L.L.D. Chancellor of Oxford 1414 and 1415; Canon of +Lincoln, nominated by the Pope, Feb. 16, 1418; made his profession of +obedience April 16, 1418; and received the temporalities June the 5th +following; about June 1423, he was translated to Carlisle, and succeeded +by + +John Clederow, who received the temporalities Jan. 15, 1424, and March +30th he made profession of obedience. His Will bears date March 30, +1434; he died Dec. 12, 1435, and was buried at Crayford. + +Thomas Cheryton, of the order of Friars Preachers, obtained Licence of +consecration Nov. 26, 1436, and died about Dec. 1448, when he was +succeeded by + +John Stanbery, the most learned Carmelite of his time, nominated by the +Pope March 4, 1448; he had before been appointed to Norwich, but the Duke +of Suffolk obtained it for his chaplain, he was of the University of +Oxford, and greatly in favour with Henry VI. and was appointed by him +Provost of his College of Eaton; and also translated to Hereford 1452; he +left in his will dated Feb. 25, 1472, a legacy of £30, to repair the +Church of Bangor, that was burnt in the troubles of Owen Glyndwr: he died +at Hereford, and was succeeded by + +James Blackdon, Bishop of Achad or Achonry in Ireland, and also suffragan +to Bishop Beckington, Wells, which he resigned on his translation to +Bangor, the Temporalities whereof were restored to him March 26, 1452. +The Bull of his translation is dated Feb. 7, 1452; he was also Master of +St. Catherine’s Hospital: he died Oct. 24, 1464, and was succeeded by + +Richard Evynden, S. T. P. Dean of Stoke Clare, in Suffolk, of the order +of Friars Minors; who obtained licence of consecration March 18, 1464. +In 1468 he represented to the Pope that this Bishoprick was not worth +£100 per annum, and so obtained leave to hold other preferments in +commendam, by the Pope’s Diploma, granting that whoever had this See +should hold some other commendam; as the headship of some Abbey, &c. He +died 1496, and was succeeded by + +Henry Dean, or Dennys, an Oxford man, Prior of Lanthony, near Gloucester, +who had the Temporalities restored as appears by the patent, Oct. 6. +1496. He was a very eminent man, and a great benefactor to the church; +he was Chancellor of Ireland and Lord chief Justice 1495, in which office +he acted with so much diligence, that the pretended Duke of York was +expelled by his means out of the kingdom. He began to re-build this +Church and Palace, which had lain in ruins for near one hundred years; +but before he had completed the choir, he was in March 22, 1500 +translated to Salisbury. + +Thomas Pigott, born in Denbighshire, Abbot of Chertsey, and L.L.B. of the +University of Oxford, succeeded him; some of his leases to Bangor, are +dated at Chertsey, where in all probability he died Aug. 15. 1504. + +John Perry, L.L.D. Abbot of Leicester and Prior of Bradley, succeeded +Aug. 30, 1505. He held his Abbacy, _in commendam_ until he became +translated to Carlisle, he was buried at St. Margaret’s in Leicester. + +Thomas Pace, alias Skevington or Sheffington, who was born at Skevington +in Leicestershire, succeeded March 7, 1508. He was brought up at +Merisale, Warwick, where he first became a professed Monk, and went from +thence for further instruction to Bernard, (now St. John’s) College, +Oxford; he afterwards became Abbot of Waverley and Beauley, in the County +of Northampton; which last he held _in commendam_ with this See, till his +death, and resided mostly there and at London; yet notwithstanding this, +he became a very generous benefactor, by rebuilding the Episcopal Palace, +on the porch of which is this inscription still remaining over the door; +“Thomas Skevington, Epis. Bangor fecit.” and also the Cathedral Church, +as we have noticed in another place, he died about the year 1533, and was +succeeded by + +John Salcot, alias Capon, S. T. P. of the University of Cambridge, Abbot +of Holm, in the County of Norfolk, and afterwards of Hyde, in the County +of Southampton; a very forward person in soliciting King Henry VIII’s +divorce; by virtue of which he became elected Bishop of this See, Jan. +30, and was consecrated April 19, 1534. He was afterwards translated to +Salisbury, where he died. + +Joh Bird, S. T. P. of Oxford, provincial of the order of Carmelites’ +Convent at Coventry, and Bishop of Penruth, was elected July 24, 1539, +had the royal assent Sep. 1, confirmed Sep. 18, and had the temporalities +restored Sep. 19th following. In 1535 he waited on Bishop Bonner, at +Fulham, and brought him a dish of apples and a bottle of wine, and was +presented by Bonner to Dunmow living, for a maintenance. In Aug. 1541, +be was made the first Bishop of Chester, on the new erection of that See, +by King Henry VIII. and was succeeded as Bishop of Bangor by + +Arthur Bulkeley, L.L.D. educated at New Inn Hall, Oxford, who was +confirmed Dec. 20. 1541, and consecrated Feb. 1541–2; his first +preferment was the Rectory of Llan Ddeusant, in the county of Anglesey, +to which he was instituted Aug. 18, 1525, and soon after was made canon +of St. Asaph; on Aug. 8, 1537, he was made prebend of Clynnog Fechan; and +July 15, 1538, admitted Rector of St. James’s, Garlick-hithe, in London, +at the presentation of the convent of Westminster, which he quitted Nov. +8, 1544. He died March 14, 1552, and was buried in his own cathedral, in +the place where Bishop Skevington’s heart was deposited; after his death +the See continued vacant till the consecration of + +William Glynn, born at a place called Glynn, in the commot of Malltraeth, +and parish of Hen Eglwys, Anglesey; he was master of Queen Ann’s college +Cambridge. In 1549 he was presented to St. Martins Le Grand, in London, +and made Rector of Hen Eglwys Feb. 3, 1551, and consecrated Bishop of +Bangor Sep. 8, 1555. He died May 21, 1558, and was buried in the Choir +of his own cathedral, in the 54th year of his age. + +Maurice Clennock, L.L.B. a native of Caernarvonshire, Prebendary of York, +was nominated to succeed, by Queen Mary, but he died before his +consecration was completed. The Bishoprick was next conferred on + +Rowland Meyrick, L.L.D. chancellor of St. David’s, and sometime of Wells, +and Principal of New Inn Hall, Oxford, born at Bodorgan, in the Parish of +Llancadwaladr, Anglesey, who was elected Bishop Dec. 1, 1559. He was at +first Rector of Stoke, by Neyland, in the county of Norfolk, and was +Precentor of Llan Ddewi Brefi, in the year 1549. He died Sep. 25, 1565, +and was buried in his own cathedral, on the south side of the communion +table, under the east wall, with an inscription now lost. + +Nicholas Robinson, S. Th. P. born at Conway in the county of Carnarvon; +Fellow of Queen’s college Cambridge, and chaplain to Archbishop Parker, +on March 3, 1556, he was made Dean of Bangor, and in 1562 Archdeacon of +Merioneth and Rector of Northop; confirmed Bishop Oct. 6, 1566, with +leave to hold the Rectory of Whitney, in the county of Oxford, _in +commendam_. He died Feb. 3, 1584–5, and was buried in his own cathedral, +with an inscription on a slate which is effaced, with the exception of +these words, “Hic Jacet Nicholas Robinson,” and his successor was + +Hugh Bellot. S. T. P. fellow of St. John’s college Cambridge, Vicar of +Gresford, and as supposed of Wrexham; elected Bishop Dec. 3, 1585, +confirmed Jan. 25th; he was translated to Chester 1595, where he died, +after he had sat a few months, and was buried at Wrexham, aged 54 years. + +Richard Vaughan, born at Nyffryn, in Lleyn, Carnarvonshire, educated at +St. John’s college Cambridge; Archdeacon of Middlesex and Canon of Wells; +elected Bishop Nov. 22, had the Temporalities restored March 5, 1595–6: +on the 23rd of April 1597, he was translated to Chester, and thence to +London, where he died, and lies buried. + +Henry Rowlands, S. T. P. of New college Oxford, born at Plas Myllteyrn, +in the Parish of Meyllteyrne, Carnarvonshire, of which he became Rector +in 1572, afterwards of Naunton in Oxfordshire in 1581, he was made Rector +of Aberdaron in Lleyn, 1584 Prebendary of Penmynydd, Anglesey, and Dean +of Bangor in 1593. His Conge d‘Elire is dated Aug. 22. During his time, +he became a most munificent benefactor to his cathedral, by purchasing +four (or according to Goodwin five) bells, and also by new roofing the +cathedral; he also founded two fellowships at Jesus college, Oxford; an +hospital for six poor men at Bangor, and a Tree school at Bottwnog, being +a chapel belonging to Myllteyrn. He died July 6, 1616, and was buried in +his own cathedral. + +Lewis Bayly, S. T. P. born in Caernarvonshire, chaplain to Prince Henry, +and Rector of St. Matthew, Friday Street, London; elected Bishop Aug. 28, +1616. He was a married man, and left behind him four sons, some say he +was the author of the “Practice of Piety.” He died Oct. 3, 1631, and was +buried in his own cathedral, in Bishop Meyrick’s grave, he was succeeded +by + +David Dolben, S. T. P. born at Segrwd near Denbigh Prebend of Vaenol in +the church of St. Asaph, which he held _in commendam_ with his +Bishoprick, to which he was elected Nov. 8, 1631. He was a great +benefactor to this See, and was descended from an ancient family in +Denbighshire. He died unmarried, Nov. 27, 1633, at the palace belonging +to his See, in St. Andrews, Holborn, London, and was buried in the church +of Hackney, aged 52. + +Edmund Griffith, S. T. P. born at Cefn Amwlch, Caernarvonshire, in 1570, +succeeded David Dolben, having been elected Dec. 31, 1633: he was canon +July 5, 1600: he was preferred to the Rectory of Llanbedrog in the county +of Caernarvon, Dec. 10, 1604; and Dean of Bangor Sep. 9, 1613. He died +May 26, 1637, and was buried in his own cathedral. + +William Roberts, Sub-Dean of Wells, and Archdeacon of Anglesey, was +consecrated in Sep. 1637, and had the Temporalities restored during the +great rebellion; he suffered much on account of his loyalty, however he +had the happiness to live to be restored in 1660. He gave by Will £100 +towards adorning and beautifying Bangor choir; and £100 to Queen’s +college Cambridge, for maintaining an exhibition for a poor Scholar of +the diocese of Bangor, with several other bequests. + +Robert Price, S. T. P. Bishop of Fern, in Ireland; son of Colonel Price, +of Rhiwlas, in the county of Merioneth, was nominated to succeed; but +dying in Ireland, before his election was completed, he made room for + +Robert Morgan, born at Bronfraith, in the county of Montgomery; chaplain +to Bishop Dolben; he suffered much in the rebellion, prior to his +nomination, which took place June 8, 1666. He died Sep. 1673, aged 95, +and was succeeded by + +Humphrey Lloyd, S. T. P. born at Trawsfynydd, in the county of Merioneth; +he was confirmed Nov. 8, and consecrated Nov. 16, 1673. In 1685 he +procured the Archdeaconries of Bangor and Anglesey, and the sinecure of +Llanrhaiadr, to be annexed to the Bishoprick of Bangor for ever, by Act +of Parliament; and two-thirds of both the comportions of Llandinam, to be +settled for the support of the fabrick of the cathedral, and the other +third for the maintenance of the Vicars of Llandinam. He also new-cast +the four bells given by Bishop Rowlands, and added a fifth bell, bigger +than any of the former, all at his own charge: and dying Jan. 18, 1688, +was buried in Bishop Rowland’s grave, aged 78, and was succeeded by + +Humphrey Humphreys, Dean of Bangor, consecrated Bishop of this See June +30, 1689. In 1701 he was translated to Hereford, where he died, and was +buried in that cathedral. He was succeeded by + +John Evans, S. Th. P. born at Plas du, in the Parish of Llanarmon, +Carnarvonshire: consecrated Jan. 4, 1701. In the year 1715, he was +translated to Meath in Ireland, and was succeeded at Bangor by + +Benjamin Hoadley, D.D. (first English Bishop since the reformation) was +confirmed March 27, 1715, and consecrated the next day. In the year +1721, he was translated to Hereford; in 1723, to Salisbury; and in 1734, +to Winchester, and was succeeded at Bangor by + +Richard Reynolds, L.L.D. consecrated Dec. 3, 1721, and in 1723 translated +to Lincoln, where he died 1744, and was succeeded in this See by + +William Baker, S. Th. P. consecrated Aug. 1, 1723, and in 1727 he was +translated to Norwich, where he died, and was succeeded by + +Thomas Sherlock, S. Th. P. consecrated Feb. 4, 1727, a very learned man +and an eminent preacher; he was translated to Salisbury, and in 1748 to +London. + +Charles Cecil, L.L.D. Bishop of Bristol, was appointed to succeed him +Sep. 24, 1734; he began to repair the Bishop’s Palace at Bangor, but +dying in May 1737 of the Gout in his Stomach; he was succeeded by + +Thomas Herring, S. Th. P. Dean of Rochester; elected Aug. 1737. In 1749 +he was translated to York; and in 1749, on the decease of Archbishop +Potter, to Canterbury, where he died in 1757, and was succeeded at +Bangor, as well as in all his preferments, by + +Matthew Hutton, S. Th. P. who was consecrated 1743. He succeeded +Archbishop Herring in the See of York, and upon his decease to that of +Canterbury, where he died the year following. + +Zachary Pearce, S. Th. P. Dean of Rochester, afterwards of Winchester, +succeeded in 1747, which he resigned in 1756, upon his translation to +Rochester, where he died in 1778, and was succeeded at Bangor by + +John Egerton, L.L.D. Dean of Hereford, of which See his father was +Bishop, who was brother to Scroop Egerton, first Duke of Bridgewater; in +1769 he was translated to Litchfield and Coventry, and from thence to +Durham, when he was succeeded by + +John Ewer, S. Th. P. Bishop of Landaff, Chaplain to the Duke of Rutland, +and Canon of Windsor; he dying in 1775, was succeeded he + +John Moore, S. Th. P. Dean of Canterbury, and Chaplain to the Duke of +Marlborough. He afterwards became Archbishop of Canterbury; when + +Jean Warren, in 1784, was consecrated to the See; who was succeeded by + +William Cleaver Bishop of Chester, who removed to St. Asaph, in 1806. + +Dr. Randolph, Bishop of Oxford, succeeded, and them + +Dr. Majendie, now Bishop. + + + +_DEANS OF BANGOR_, + + Iago ap Beli, circiter, A.D. 603. + Arthur de Bardesey, circiter, 1162. + Adams, occurs as Dean in 1278, being a witness + to a composition between the Bishop of Bangor, + and Lord Grey, of Dyffryn Clwyd + Kynddelw, circiter, 1286 + Williams, occurs in the taxation of Pope + Nicholas, 1291 + Anian Sais, afterwards Bishop of Bangor + Adam, circiter, 1327 + Elias fil. Kenrick, occurs as witness to an + Inspeximus Charter in 1353 + 1359 Howel ap Gronow, afterwards Bishop of Bangor + John, occurs in the Lambeth Register, in 1371 + David Daron, an adherent to Owen Glyndwr; + outlawed in 1406. He was son of Evan ap + Davydd ap Gr. a descendant of Caradog ap + Iestin, a Prince of Wales. His name + frequently occurs in a Dockett Roll at the + Prothonatory’s Office, Caernarvon. + William Pollard, an Englishman, was appointed + to succeed D. Daron, but never obtained + possession +May 5, 1410 Henry Honore, p. c. W. P. He exchanged with + his predecessor for the Vicarage of New + Church, Kent +June 9, 1413 Roger Wadhele, Cler. p. m. H. H. +Sep. 21, 1416 John Vantort, p. c. R. W. He exchanged with + his Predecessor, for the Rectory of St. Mary, + _ad muras Colchester_ + Nigelles Bondeby, circiter, 1436 + John Martyn, circiter, 1445 + Hugh Alcock, circiter 1460. His house at + Bangor, now called “Plas Alcock” + Hugh Morgan, circiter, 1468, son of Davydd ap + Rees, of Presaddfed + Nicholas Rewys, circiter, 1474 + 1480 Richard Kyffin, L.L.B. Rector of Llanddwyn. + He was instrumental in promoting Henry VII. to + the throne of England. His grave stone is + still to be seen at Bangor + 1504 Richard Cowland, S. T. P. + John Glynn, L.L.B. of Hen eglwys, circiter + 1508. His will is presented among the + archieves at the Palace in Bangor +Dec. 12, 1534 Robert Evans, L.L.B. p. m. J. G. he was + deprived of all his preferments in 1554, for + being married + 1554 Rhese Powel, p. dep. R. E. conjugat +Oct. 27, 1557 Robert Evans, B.D. re-instituted +Sep. 26, 1570 Roland Thomas, L.L.D. p. m. R. E. a native of + Anglesey, Fellow of Magdalen College + Cambridge. His will is preserved at the + Deanery of Bangor, in which he bequeathes some + lands for charitable purposes +June 22, 1588 Bishop Bellot, in commendam +Aug. 29, 1593 Henry Rowlands, B.D. p. c. Epi. afterwards + Bishop of Bangor +April 11, 1599 Richard Parry, D.D. p. c. H. R. afterwards + Bishop of St. Asaph +May 8, 1605 John Williams, D.D. p. c. R. P. Principal of + Jesus College, Oxford, &c. +Sep. 9, 1613 Edmund Griffith, B.D. p. m. J. W. afterwards + Bishop of Bangor +March 28, 1634 Griffith Williams, D.D. p. c. E. G. a native + of Llanrug. He was made Bishop of Ossory, and + had the Rectory of Llanllechid. He was a + great sufferer during the Usurpation +May 3, 1673 William Lloyd, D.D. p. m. G. W. afterwards + Bishop of St. Asaph +Dee. 16, 1680 Humphrey Humphreys, D.D. p. c. W. L. + afterwards Bishop of Bangor +Sep. 4, 1689 John Jones, D. D. p. c. H. H. of Plas gwyn, in + the Parish of Pentraeth. He held the + Rectories of Llanllechid, Aber, &c. + 1727 Peter Maurice, A M. p m. J. J. of Maes mawr, + new Corwen +April 26, 1750 Hugh Hughes, A M. p m. P M. of Weeg, near Aber +Sep. 19, 1753 Thomas Lloyd, A M. p m. B H. of Bryn Adda, + near Dolgelley +Nov. 11, 1793 John Warren, A M. p m. T L + +VICARS OF BANGOR, + + +_Vicaria_, _collationis Episcopi_, _cum Rectoria Ecclesæ Parochialis Sii. +Kedoll_, _alias Pentir_, _unit_: _et annexa_. _Festa Dec._ 1, & _Nov._ +1. + + 1660 John Draycot, A. B. p. m. ullt. Vic. He was a + son of Thomas Draycot, principal Registrar of + the Diocese, and held the Rectory of + Llanddeiniolen; the following inscription is + upon his grave, within the Cathedral, “Joh: + Draicot, Vic. Bangor, et Rect: Llanddeiniolen. + Vir probus et pius, obiit Ap. 17, 1667.” + 1688 John Buttred +June 17, 1691 Hugh Johnson, Cler. late Rector of Hen Eglwys. + Upon his grave-stone occurs the following + inscription: “Hugh Johnson, one of the Vicars + of this Cath: Church, who dyed the 4th Feb. + 1694, aged 39” +Oct. 5, 1694 Pierce Lewis, A. M. late Rector of + Llanfacbreth. He held also the Rectory of + Llanfairfechan. +May 15, 1699 Robert Humphreys, A.M. p.m. P.L. He lies + buried at Bangor, with the following Epitaph, + “Roberti Humphreys, A. M. hujus Ecclesiæ + Vicarie Choralis, necnon Parochi de + Llanfairvechan Rectoris: Qui obitt 5 Cal. Sep. + A.D. 1711, Ætat. 49” +Sep. 17, 1708 Henry Williams, A. M. Rector of Llanrug; + afterwards of Llanfaethle +July 28, 1712 Thomas Vincent, A. B. p. m. R. H. he resigned + this for Llan fachreth +June 2, 1713 Bulkeley Hughes, A. M. p. c. T. V. also Rector + of Edern +July 27, 1713 William Evans, A. M. p. c. H. W also Rector of + Llangefni, &c. +April 12, 1740 Thomas Lloyd, Cler. p. m. B. H. afterwards + Dean of Bangor +Nov. 12, 1744 Hugh Hughes, A. B. p. m. W. E. late Rector of + Trefrhyw +March 12, 1749 John Ellis, L.L.B. p. m. H. H. Archdeacon of + Merion. +Dec. 7, 1753 William Lloyd, A. B. p. c. T. L. Precentor of + Bangor +Sept. 2, 1760 James Vincent, A. M. p. c. W. L. late master + of Bangor School, &c. +Sept. 21, 1773 Richard Griffith, A. M. p. c. J. V. master of + Bangor School, &c. +Dec. 5, 1785 John Kyffin, A. M. p. m. J. E. Rector of + Trefdraeth + 1790 Peter Williams, D. D. p. m. R. G. Rector of + Llanbedrog, &c. + 1802 John Jones, A. M. p. c. P. W. Archdeacon of + Mer. &c. + 1810 John Kyffin, p. c. J. K. + 1810 James H. Cotton, L.L.B. p. c. J. K. +July 29, 1819 John Hamer, A. B. p. c. J. J. + +KING CHARLES LETTERS +TO THE +_GENTLEMEN OF CAERNARVONSHIRE_, +[Copied from the original MSS.] + + +CHARLES REX, + +Right truly and well-beloved, and trusty and well-beloved—we greete you +well. Whereas a Rebellion being raysed against us, and forces marching +toward us, we are necessitated for the defence of our person and crowne, +and the religion and laws established, to call upon all our good subjects +to assist us; and whereas we are fully persuaded of the affection and +loyalty of that our countie, and of their readiness to assist us, their +King and Liedge Lord, in this our and their necessary defence, according +to their duty and alleagiance. These are to will and require you for +that, and with all possible speed, to bring to Shrewsbury to our loyal +Standard there to attend our further directions, the trayned bands of +that countie, as well horses and foote, with such other volunteers, as +your interest in them and their owne affection shall persuade to come +with them. And if the necessary occasions of any of our trayned bands +shall withold them, that either themselves or servants or other +volunteers be admitted to serve in their places, with their arms +compleat, which trayned bands and volunteers with these from other of our +counties in our dominion of Wales we intend to serve in our regiments for +a guard for our dearest Son the Prince, and receive them into our pay on +their arrival at Shrewsbury, whither we desire that our countie in this +our greate exigent to furnish them sufficient ammunition for their +journey, and money to bear their charges, which we shall look upon as a +great expression of affection and fidelity, and shall at all tymes +remember to their advantage, and we require all our Justices of the Peace +in that our countie to give their assistance unto us herein and all our +loving subjects of the same to be obedient to your directions, in +pursuance of these our commands, and for soe doing this shall be to you +and every of them a sufficient warrant. Given at our Court at Darby this +15th day of September, 1642. + + _To the Sheriff and Commissioners of Array_, _in the countie of + Carnarvon_ + + * * * * * + +CHARLES REX. + +Right trusty and well-beloved, we greete you well,—We have understood +from the Gentlemen you sent to us, your loyal and unanimous resolutions +for the advancement of our service, and for your sending to our standard +two hundred armed soldiers, and moneys for their conduct and maintenance, +for which soe considerable assistance as we return you hereby our royall +thanks, soe we must desire you to speede the sending hither of those +soldiers unto our standard, all that may be. And least any disaffected +to us and our service should presume to oppose you in this work, we +authorise and command you to use your utmost power and endeavour to +apprehend and bring in safe custodie to us any one or more that shall +appear in opposition or disturbance of you herein. As alsoe for your +more effectual proceeding in this service, and for the security of our +good subjects in that our countie from intestine tumults and danger, to +make use of the magazin now remaining there, and of such further power of +the countie as to you shall seem meete upon all occasions, for which +these our letters shall be your sufficient warrant. Given at our Court +at Shrowsbury, the 28th day of September, in the eighteenth year of our +raigne, 1642. + + _To the Commissioners of Array_, _of the countie of Carnarvon_ + + * * * * * + +CHARLES REX. + +Trusty and well-beloved, having great assurance of your constant and well +affections unto us in this time of iminent danger, when our owne and our +whole kingdom safety is concerned, and being informed and satisfied how +much you have expressed your devotions to our service, We shall at all +times bee ready to remember your cheerefulness thereof, and not doubting +of your continuance to doe all things that may conduce to the furtherance +of our safety, we do hereby give you direction, that for such moneys as +you have or shall raise voluntarily within your countie for our +assistance this time, over and above what is for the conducting of our +owne trayned bands, you do paye the same unto John Owen, of Cleneney, in +our countie of Carnarvon, Esq. one of our Colonells, who is thereby to be +enabled to rayse a regiment to bring his several companies to our +standard. And for so doing this shall be to you and every of you a +sufficient warrant.—Given at our Court at Chester, the five and twentieth +day of September, 1642. + + _To the Commissioners of Array_, _in the countie of Carnarvon_ + + * * * * * + +CHARLES REX. + +Trusty and well beloved, we greete you well. Whereas we have by our +commission under our great seal, authorized and intrusted our trustie and +well-beloved Colonell John Owen to raise in these parts, command, and +unto our royal standard to conduct one regiment of foote, for our special +service, our will and pleasure is, that you issue unto the said Colonell +all such moneys as by you have been for our use received out of the free +subscription or contribution of our good subjects of that our countie, +which money we have assigned him upon the account of the said regiment, +and for your soe doing this, together with his acquittance acknowledging +the receit thereof shall be your sufficient warrant and discharge. Given +under our sign manuel at our Court at Shrewsbury this 28th day of +September, 1642. + + _To our trustie and well-beloved Sir Wm. Williams_, _Bart. and Humphrey + Jones_, _Esq. of the countie of Carnarvon_ + + * * * * * + +CHARLES REX. + +Trustie and well-beloved, we greete you well. Whereas Rebellion is +raysed against us and forces are marching towards us, which hath already +wrought a general distraction throughout this our Realme, to the great +disturbance and grievance of all our good and well-affected subjects of +whose wealth we are as tender as of our owne; we are necessitated for the +defence of own person and of this kingdom and the religion and lawe +established, to use all expedient means for our assistance at this time. +And whereas we have received good testimony of the good affections and +forward zeale of our loving subjects in the Principality of Wales, +particularly in our countie of Carnarvon, and of their readiness to serve +us for the preservation of the kingdom in this extremity, which we looke +upon as an expression of their great fidelity, and shall remember it to +their satisfaction, we shall not doubt of your willingness to give +obedience to our present directions thus sent to each of you for what is +in your power to perform for the furtherance of the publique safety. We +in confidence thereof doe hereby will and require you, and every of you, +that such publique moneys as have been raysed or ought to have been payed +for the safetie and defence of the kingdome within our sayd countie of +Carnarvon, and do remayne in one or any of your hands, that you pay the +same unto the hands of John Owen of Cleneney, in our sayd countie, Esq. +one of the Colonells who is to bring a regiment of volunteers, That +thereby he may be enabled to raise his companies, and to bring them unto +our standard. And this our warrant shall be his discharge unto you and +every of you for soe doing. And we further require that you do +immediately upon receit hereof, return severally answers in writing unto +us, when you and every of you shall be moved thereto, by the said +Colonell Owen or any on his behalf. Given at Wrexham, the 27th of +September, 1642. + + _To our trustie and wel beloved Sir W. Williams_, _Bart. Wm. Glynn_, + _Owen Wynn_, _T. Madryn_, — _Hookes_, _Arthur Williams_, — _Griffith_, +_Esq. and Commissioners of the Peace for the countie of Carnarvon_, _&c._ + + * * * * * + +CHARLES REX. + +Trustie and well-beloved, we greete you well. Whereas we have lately +signified our pleasure unto you that the following contribution money of +our countie of Carnarvon should be payed to Collonell John Owen towards +the charge of that Regiment, which he was appointed by us to rayse. And +we likewise directed our letters to severall persons who had collected +the publique moneys of the same countie, which were collected for the +defence of the kingdome, that they should pave them towards the same +charge as beinge for the common defence of the whole kingdome. +Notwithstanding we understande noe parte of these moneys is payd as we +directed. And that Regiment which by our special appointment is to march +immediately is in danger to disband for want of present supplie which as +it is much contrarie to our expectation, who have always hitherto found +the forwardness and good affections of the countie toward our service, +soe may tend much to our deservice especially at this time, when we have +occasion to make tryall of the Loyalty and forwardness of all our +subjects, and the payment of those moneyes to the said Colonell beinge +more acceptable and of more service unto us, than if they had been payd +unto our owne hands, who must otherwise have sent them towards the +supplyinge of that Regiment. We doe desire to have cause still to +continue our gracious opinion of our gracious opinion of our subjects of +that countie. And we are confident if we have not satisfaction herein, +it is through the coldness or disaffection of some particular persons who +prefer private ends before the publique. And therefore our will is, that +you use all possible diligence that we may have satisfaction herein by +speedy advance of the contribution moneyes, and calling upon those who +keepe the publique moneyes in their hands, that they forthwith pay them +to Colonell Owen, or otherwise that you certifie unto us with all speed, +by whose meanes our service is so much disturbed, that we may knowe and +recompence such persons according to their desert. And for that it much +concerns our service that the forces raysed in that countie should all +march in one body, our will is, that those 500 armed men, which are by +that countie to be sett forth for our service, be joyned with the sayde +Regiment and speedily march with them towards us according to such +directions as we have given to the sayd Collonell Owen. Given at our +Court at Woodstock the 29th day of October, in the eighteenth year of our +Reigne. + + _To the Commissioners of Array_, _&c._ + + * * * * * + +CHARLES REX. + +Trusty and well-beloved we greet you well. Whereas we have constituted +and appointed our deerest sonne the Prince to be our Lieutenant Generall +in our counties of Worcester, Salop, Chester and North Wales, and have +appointed our right trusty and well-beloved Arthur Lord Capell cheefe +Commander of the same under him, and whereas we have resolved to rayse in +our said counties a Regiment of fifteen hundred foote to be the liefe +guard of our said deerest Sonne. These are to will and require you to +make the same known to our good subjects of that countie, and to take +speedy and effectual order for the leavying and arming of the said +Regiment, according to our Commission in that behalf granted to our +trustie and welbeloved Serjeant Major Woodhouse whom we have appointed to +levy and command them. Soe not doubting of your ready assistance herein, +we bid you heartily farewell. Given at our Court att Oxford, the 18th +day of March, 1642. + + _To the Commissioners of Array_, _and Sheriff of Carnarvon_ + + * * * * * + +CHARLES REX. + +Trustye and well-beloved, we greet you well.—Whereas we are informed, +that you have diverse peeces of Artillery, which may be of use and avayle +to our citty of Worcester and towne of Shrowsbury, if they shall be +removed thither respectively, and there mounted for the defence of those +places. And being further assured of your good affections to our person, +and the advancement of our service, we pray you (all private +communications being layd aside) to lend unto us your sayd severall +peeces of Artillery, with all their Appurtenances, to be conveyed +foorthwith unto, and employed in our sayd cittye and towne, at the proper +costs and charges of them respectively, as alsoe, att their like charges, +for the returne of the sayd peeces of Artillery and their appurtenances +home againe, att the end of the service, unless in the interim it shall +be agreed betweene you and the sayd townes, to buy and sell the sayd +peeces, for such price and consideration as they can respectively accord +for them, or any of them. Of this service we desire you not to fayle, +being of much consequence to our affayres, and in performance whereof, +you shall do us a good pleasure, for which these our letters shall be +your warrant. Given under our signett, at our Court at Oxford, the 31st +December, 1642. + + _To John Griffith_, _Esq. &c._ + + * * * * * + +CHARLES REX. + +Trusty and welbeloved, we greete you well.—Whereas we have entrusted and +authorised our right trusty and welbeloved Arthur Lord Capell to be our +Lieutenant General of that and other of our counties, and to provide for +the security and preservation thereof by the best ways and means he can +devise. And whereas it hath been thought requisite and necessary for the +purpose aforesaid to levy a competent number of foote and Dragoons in our +said countie. Our will and pleasure is that in order to our said service +you shall receive and assist any warrants of Commissioners as are or +shall be issued from the said Lord Capell, with the same care and respect +as if they were our owne, since what he hath done or shall doe herein is +done by our command, direction, commission and authority, and for soe +doing this shall be your warrant. Given at our Court att Oxford, the +15th day of June, 1643. + + _To the Commissioners of Array_, _&c._ + + * * * * * + +CHARLES REX. + +Trusty and welbeloved, we greete you well.—Whereas we are informed that +Sir Thos. Middleton, Knt. is made Lieutenant General of North Wales by +Commission from one or both of our Houses of Parliament, and whereas +Edward Vaughan, Gent. hath withdrawn himself from our allegiance, +contrary to our express command, for the prevention of all danger and +mischief that may proceed from either of them to our countie or any part +of North Wales, our will and pleasure is, and we do hereby require you +and every of you to use your utmost power and industrie to apprehend or +seize the persons of the said Sir Thos. Middleton and Edward Vaughan, and +having seized them to keep them in safe custody, until you shall receive +our further order on that behalf. And for so doing this shall be your +sufficient warrant. Given at our Court at Oxford, the 16th of June, +1643. + + _To the Commissioners of Array_, _&c._ + + * * * * * + +CHARLES REX. + +Trusty and well beloved, we greet you well. We are very sensible of your +free and reall expressions of your loyalty and affection to us upon all +occasions, for the advance of our service:—And though we might well +conceive it needlesse to stir you up to the performance of these duties, +whereunto you are already very forward, yet we thought good hereby to put +you in mind of the great necessity of providing moneys for the +maintenance of our forces, for the defence of those parts against the +rebells, and to propose unto you, as that which we think a very fit +course, that you follow the good example of our good subjects of our +countie of Salop, and join with our trusty and well-beloved Arthur, Lord +Capell, in advising upon, and raysing some competent monthly contribution +in that our county, proportionable to what they have levyed, and also in +advancing such considerable sums of money as you can provide, according +as divers of our well-affected subjects of the gentry of Salop have +already done. We also think it very requisite, and have signified so +much to the Lord Capell, that the High Sheriff of that our countie, +should attend him about this affair, and that some person well affected, +may be chosen out of our said countie to be always resident with him, +that may receive advertisement of your proceedings in this business, and +may signifie from time to time to that our countie, the condition of our +affairs there, soe not donating of your ready compliance herein, wee bid +you heartily farewell. Given at our Court at Oxford, the 23rd June, +1643. + + _To the Commissioners of Array_, _of the County of Carnarvon_, _&c._ + + * * * * * + +CHARLES REX. + +Trustie and well beloved, we greete you well. It cannot but be +displeasing to us that any of our subjects, especially such as you, who +should be good examples to others, should neglect our service, and the +authorities of such to whom we have given power to call you hereunto, +such hath been your wilful declining, as we hear, of the Lord Capell’s +summons to you by his Letters, to appear and join with the rest of the +countyes under his command, that we do assure you, if we hear not shortly +of your better complyance with him, we shall have much cause to suspect +your disaffection, for the urgency of our affairs now admits not of +procrastinations, nor our reall service of coldness. Given at our Court +at Oxford, the last day of July, 1643. + + _To the Sheriff and Commissioners of Array_, _of the countie of + Carnarvon_ + + + +A +CATALOGUE +OF +Some of the Rarer Plants +WHICH GROW +_IN CAERNARVONSHIRE_, +WITH THE HABITATS OF THE MOST RARE. + + + _BY MR. J. ROBERTS_, _SURGEON_, _CAERNARVON_. + +Veronica Spicata, _a_ {xxi} + +Salvia verbenaca + +Iris fætidissima + +Schænus albus + +Lycopus europæus + +Poa alpina + +Festuca rubra + +— vivipara + +Rotbollia incurvata + +Galium cruciatum, _a_ + +— boreale, _b_ + +Centunculus minimus + +Rubia peregrina + +Alchemilla alpina, _c_ + +Pulmonaria maritima + +Hottonia palustris + +Convolvulus soldanella + +Campanula hederacea + +Lobelia dortmanna + +Samolus valerandi + +Euonymus europæus + +Viola lutea, _d_ + +Beta maritima + +Salsola kali + +Crithmum maritimum + +Œnanthe pimpinelloides + +Scandix odorata + +Sambucus ebulus + +Parnassia palustris, _e_ + +Drosera longifolia + +Viburnum opulus + +Scilla verna + +Anthericum serotinum, _f_ + +Juncus acutus + +— triglumis, _g_ + +Rumex digynus + +Triglochin maritimum + +Alisma natans, _h_ + +Vaccinium vitis idæa + +Saxifraga stellaris + +— nivalis, _i_ + +— oppositifolia, _i_ + +— cœspitosa, _i_ + +— palmata, _i_ + +— hypnoides, _i_ + +— platypetala, _i_ + +Silene nutans, _k_ + +— acaulis + +Arenaria verna + +— peploides + +Sedum rupestre, _c_ + +Cerastium alpinum, _c_ + +— latifolium, _l_ + +Euphorbia portlandica + +Spiræa filipendula + +Pyrus aria, _m_ + +Rubus saxatalis, _n_ + +— chamæmorus + +Potentilla verna, _a_ + +Geum rivale + +Papaver cambricum + +Nymphæa lutea + +—alba + +Cistus marifolius, _a_ + +Thalictrum minus + +— alpinum, _c_ + +Trollius europæus + +Ajuga alpina + +Galeopsis grandiflora, _o_ + +Galeobdolon luteum, _p_ + +Scutellaria minor + +Antirrhinum orontium + +Scrophularia vernalis, _a_ + +Lamium album + +Crambe maritima + +Subularia aquatica, _q_ + +Draba incana + +Arabia hispida, _l_ + +— thaliana + +Cheiranthus sinuatus + +Erodium cicutarium + +— maritimum + +Geranium sanguineum + +Malva moschata + +Lavatera arborea + +Fumaria claviculata + +Genista tinctoria + +Anthyllis vulneraria + +Orobus sylvaticus + +Lathyrus sylvestris, _r_ + +Vicia sylvatica + +Medicago sativa, _s_ + +Hypericum androsæmum + +— dubium + +Tragopogon pratensis + +Hedypnois taraxaci + +Hieracium alpinum + +Cichorium intybus + +Serratula alpina, _b_ + +Gnaphalium dioicum, _b_ + +Orchis pyramidalis, _a_ + +Orchis conopsea + +Satyrium viride + +— albidum + +Ophrys ovata + +— cordata, _u_ + +Serapias ensifolia, _v_ + +Malaxis paludosa, _w_ + +Sparganium natans, _x_ + +Carex dioica + +— atrata + +— fulva, _c_ + +— rigida + +— vesicaria + +Salix herbacea, _c_ + +Empetrum nigrum + +Juniperus communis + +Rhodiola rosea + +Myrica gale + +Ophioglossum vulgatum + +Osmunda regalis + +— lunaria + +Lycopodium clavatum + +— selaginoides + +— selago + +— annotimum, _g_ + +— alpinum + +Polypodium arvonicum, _y_ + +Aspiduim lonchitis + +— Thelypteris + +— oreopteris + +— aculeatum + +Asplenium marinum + +— viride + +— Septentrionale + +Scolopendruim ceterach + +Pteris crispa + +Cyathea fragile + +— regia + +Hymenophyllum tunbridgense + +Isoetes lacustris, _q_ + + + +_The following are recommended as good Guides_: + + +Thomas Williams, of Glan y Bala, or the Cottage between the Lakes, +Llanberis. + +Thomas Phillips, Thomas Griffith, and all the Boatmen at Cwm y glo, +Llanrug. + + FEET. +Height of SNOWDON, according to the Trigonometrical 3561 +observations for the General Survey of England and Wales +Do. By Mr. Wollaston’s Thermometrical Barometer from 3546,25 +Carnarvon Quay +Trigonometrically, according to General Roy 3555,4 +Barometrically, according to Do. 3548,9 +MOEL ÆLIA, do. do. 2350,55 +— do. do. 2371 +— do. do. 2391,8 +Highest point of the RIVALS 1866 +CADAIR IDRIS 2914 +GARN FADRYN 1233 + +Footnotes + + +{12} It is in this manner, (observes Mr. PENNANT, speaking of Tommen y +Rhodwydd in Yale) that we must account for the total disappearance of +many Welsh Castles, whose names are preserved in History, and whose +vestiges we have sought for in vain.—They were made of wood, as was very +customary with several ancient nations, and with others of later date. +The _Persians_, on the approach of the _Spartans_, secured themselves +within their wooden walls, and Cæsar found great resistance from a Tower, +in the Alpine Castle of Larignum, made of the timber of the Larix, or the +Larch, which was found to be incombustible. In later times, the Castle +of Bamborough was built originally by Ida, with wood; the Burg of Murray +was fortified by the Danes, with the same material.—The people of the +same country, in 1228, had Castles of wood; and a century after these, +more recent instances: William de Melton, Archbishop of York, in 1317, +fortified the Mount in that City, called the _Old Bale_, with planks, +eighteen inches thick. + +{17} The Court of King’s Bench has very lately determined, that stage +Coach passengers cannot legally be required to pay _any demand whatever_, +for being conveyed over the ferry at Conway, and for carriage of their +luggage, over and above the amount of their respective fares in such +Coach. + +{30} Probably at Braich y Bedd, near Hafod Gelyn. There is a Tradition +that in former times there was a Church near that place, and a spot is +still shewn distinguished by the name of Hên Fonwent, (old Church-yard); +and it is not unlikely but the Walsh Princes might nave had their Summer +residence here, if we may be allowed to judge from the name; for Garth +Celyn must have been near this spot. There is also a Tradition, that the +village was set on fire, by Oliver Cromwell’s men, from the Bridge to the +Church-yard, and that they lighted a fire under the Bell rope, in the +Church, which they made use of as a Stable. + +{38} Some idea of the magnitude of this concern may be formed, from the +Proprietor having shipped off, from Port Penrhyn, in the year 1819, +Slates to the amount of Fifty-eight Thousand Pounds. + +{43} The Precentor, though at present unendowed, will in a few years +have a Salary annexed to his Office, in consequence of a Decree lately +made by the Lord Chancellor in his favour. + +{53} This Ferry, probably, took its name from the Hundred or Division of +the Island in which it to situated, viz. Tindaethwy. + +{55} Near this Ferry, on the Anglesey shore, is a Rock known by the name +of _Carreg Iago_, or rather _Carreg yr Iacon_, or _Arch-Iacon_; (the +Archdeacon’s stone) rendered memorable on account of Archbishop Baldwin +having stood up to preach the crusade upon it, at the time of his +peregrinations for that purpose through Wales, 1188; and Alexander, +Archdeacon of Bangor, is said to have interpreted to the people. + +{56} Ceris, appears to be derived either from _Cawr-rys_ (or _rhys_) the +mighty rushing, or _Gyr-rhys_, which conveys nearly the same +meaning;—_Ymryson_, to contend, is compounded, of _ym_ and _rhys_; and +the English word _race_, or course, is probably derived from this word. + +{60} The shore near Porthamel, (_Perth Amelius_, according to Rowlands; +_Porth ym moel_, as others conjecture,) is famed for being the place +where Suetonius landed; his infantry were conveyed over in boats, +probably near a spot still called _Pont yr Ysgraffiau_, and his horse +crossed, partly by swimming and partly fording.—Ready to receive them, +appeared on the shore, a motley army, (as Tacitus informs us) and women, +running wildly about, in black attire, with dishevelled hair, and like +furies, brandishing their torches; and the Druids surrounding them, and +lifting up their hands to Heaven, and pouring forth the most dreadful +imprecations. The Roman soldiers stood astonished with the sight—at +length, animated by their leader, and encouraging each other, being +ashamed to be intimidated by a womanly, and fanatic band, they advanced +with their ensigns, and overthrew all who opposed them, destroying them +in their own fires. After the battle, they placed garrisons in the +towns, and cut down the groves consecrated to their horrid superstitions; +for these people, considered it lawful to offer in sacrifice, the +captives taken in war, and, to consult human entrails.—How thankful ought +we to be for the benign influence of the Gospel of peace, by which we +were delivered from the yoke of superstition, and the abominations of +Heathenism! + +{61a} The meaning of the word is _Resting-place_, a name given it by +Lord Lucan, being descriptive of the purpose for which it was erected; +his Lordship usually spending a few days here, on his why to and from +Ireland. The house stands on a bold eminence, and commands a full view +of the Bridge and Ferry; and the inmates of this sweet retreat, have the +pleasure of beholding the busy bustling scene, without being annoyed or +discommoded, either by the noise of the passengers or the dust of the +highway, as is frequently the case with houses situated near a public +road. + +{61b} _Y Faenol_, is derived from _Maenol_, or _Maenawr_, (from which +probably comes the English word _Manor_, and the vulgar Latin _Manerium_) +meaning as explained in Howel Dda’s laws, either a lowland or upland +district, bounded or marked out by large stones, (singular _maen_, plural +_meini_) the former containing four Vills, and the latter thirteen. The +new house erected by the present proprietor, is at some distance from the +old one, the latter is very ancient, and has a very curious Gothic Family +Chapel nearly adjoining it, dedicated to St. Mary. + +{63} Near the same spot, as it is conjectured, where Agricola pasted +over into the Island. + +{66} This melancholy event took place on the night of the 5th of +December, being the Carnarvon Fair day, and the Boatmen probably in +liquor: the cries of distress were heard from both shores. One +remarkable circumstance deserves to be recorded, that only one person +(out of 69) survived in this instance, as well as the other, and both +their names Hugh Williams. + +{69} _Caer_, the fortified Town; _yn Arvon_, in the District of Arfon, +one of the Hundreds of this County, so called from its situation, +opposite Mona, or Anglesey, which is the is the signification of the +word; viz. _Ar_, upon; _Mona_, Anglesey. + +{74} The writer is aware that a very different account is given the +origin of this motto, viz. that these were the arms of the King of +Bohemia, killed by the Black Prince. + +{91} Carnarvon, does not owe its name to Edward I. as is generally +supposed; for _Giraldus Cambrensis_ mentions it in his memorable journey +with the Archbishop, in 1188; and Llewelyn the Great dates from it a +Charter, in the year 1221: probably the Caernarvon of those times was the +ancient Segontium; whose name the Welch had changed to Caer-ar-Fon. + +{92} A Well near the old Fort, now called _Hen Waliau_, bears the name +of that Princess, and some very slight remains of Ruins, point out the +probable situation of this old Building, not far from the banks of the +Seiont, to the right of the road leading to Pont Saint. + +{95} The above William Griffith, of Carnarvon and Tref-Arthen, was +descended by the Mother’s side, (as Mr. Rowlands informs us) from the +Pilston’s of this Town, and his Grand Daughter, Margaret, conveyed this +property to Griffith Jones, of Castellmarch, in Lleyn; and his Daughter +Margaret marrying Sir William Williams, of Vaenol, Baronet, that +gentleman consequently became possessed of it. + +{98a} Specimens of Ancient Welsh Poetry.—London 1784. 4to. + +{98b} The Red Dragon, was the device of Cedwalladr, which all his +descendants wore on their banners. + +{98c} Supposed to be Tal y Foel, as it is now called. + +{103} The word _Bala_, with regard to a lake, seems to convey the same +meaning as _Aber_, when applied to a river, viz. its _embouchure_. + +{108} David Thomas, the Welsh Bard, better known by the name of Dafydd +Ddu o Eryri, has taken a house in this Parish, as he intends to quit his +present habitation in the Parish of Llandwrog, (where he has resided some +time) about April next. We cannot omit this opportunity of noticing this +favoured Son of the _Awen_, (Muse) who is generally considered as the +first Welsh Bard now living; and is another instance of what may be +achieved by great talents, and a strong natural genius, though unassisted +by the advantages of education. + +{126} A conjecture, partly founded on tradition, attributes the erection +of this fortress to Pardarn Beisrydd, son of Idawl; as we are informed to +Mr. Pennant. + +{128a} Rhodri Mawr, the son of Merfyn Vrych, Prince of Wales, A.D. 843. + +{128b} Rhun ap Maelgwn, A.D. 585. + +{131} It was reported that the Bard had perished on the Cardiganshire +Hills. + +{133} Here we have the testimony of Leland, that _Wyddfa_ is _Snowdon_, +and _Creigiau Ryri Rocks_ were the _Forest of Snowdon_, which +comprehended nearly the whole County. + +{149} The Devil’s Bridge is near Hafod, in Cardiganshire, twelve miles +from Aberystwith. + +{159} Supposed to be derived either from _Gafl_, pl. _Geifl_, Forks; or +from _Yr Ufel_, Fire, from the circumstance of their having been made use +of as signal posts, and been lighted on them for that purpose. + +{179} John Wynn ap Hugh, of the family of Bodvel, was Standard Bearer at +the Battle of Norwich, Temp. Edward VI. for which service he had Bardsey, +and Court, in Aberdaron, and was Sheriff of Carnarvonshire 1551; he +married Elisabeth, daughter of Sir John Puleston, by a daughter of Robert +ap Meredith ap Hwikin Llwyd, of Glyn Llifon. + +{180} It is probably Pwll Nigel might have taken its name from this +Nigel. + +{xxi} _a_ Gloddaeth,—_b_ Rocks above Llyn Idwel,—_c_ Snowdon,—_d_ +Llanberis,—_e_ Cwm Idwel,—_f_ on inaccessible rocks near Twll du, +Snowdon, &c.—_g_ near llyn y Cwn,—_h_ Lake near Dolbadarn Castle,—_i_ +near Twll du,—_k_ near Gloddaeth,—_i_ on Clogwyn du’r Arddu,—_m_ Penmaen +mawr,—_n_ near Glan y Bala,—_o_ near Bangor,—_p_ between Llanrwst and +Conway,—_q_ in the bottom of Llyn y Cwn, and Ffynon Frech,—_r_ near +Conway,—_s_ near St. Helen’s well,—_t_ Creuddyn,—_u_ by the Waterfall +near Aber,—_v_ rare in Fachwen,—_w_ near Dol Ty Du,—_x_ in Llyn Ogwen, +and Llanberis lakes,—_y_ on a black rock near Clogwyn y Garnedd. + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TOURIST’S GUIDE THROUGH THE +COUNTRY OF CAERNARVON*** + + +******* This file should be named 45865-0.txt or 45865-0.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/5/8/6/45865 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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