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diff --git a/46074/46074-8.txt b/46074/46074-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c509946 --- /dev/null +++ b/46074/46074-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2843 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Lausanne, by Francis Henry Gribble,
+Illustrated by J. Hardwicke Lewis and May Hardwicke Lewis
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Lausanne
+
+
+Author: Francis Henry Gribble
+
+
+
+Release Date: June 23, 2014 [eBook #46074]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LAUSANNE***
+
+
+E-text prepared by sp1nd, JoAnn Greenwood, and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made
+available by Internet Archive (https://archive.org)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+ file which includes the original illustrations in color.
+ See 46074-h.htm or 46074-h.zip:
+ (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/46074/46074-h/46074-h.htm)
+ or
+ (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/46074/46074-h.zip)
+
+
+ Images of the original pages are available through
+ Internet Archive. See
+ https://archive.org/details/lausanne00gribiala
+
+
+
+
+
+LAUSANNE
+
+
+ * * * * * *
+
+_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_
+
+
+MONTREUX
+
+ PAINTED BY J. HARDWICKE LEWIS AND
+ MAY HARDWICKE LEWIS
+
+ DESCRIBED BY FRANCIS GRIBBLE
+
+ Containing 20 full-page Illustrations in Colour and a
+ Sketch-Map.
+
+ Square Demy 8vo., cloth, gilt top
+ Price 7/6 net
+ (_Post free, price 7/11_)
+
+GENEVA
+
+ PAINTED BY J. HARDWICKE LEWIS AND
+ MAY HARDWICKE LEWIS
+
+ DESCRIBED BY FRANCIS GRIBBLE
+
+ Containing 20 full-page Illustrations and a
+ Sketch-Map.
+
+ Square Demy 8vo., cloth, gilt top
+ Price 7/6 net
+ (_Post free, price 7/11_)
+
+PUBLISHED BY A. AND C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.
+
+
+ * * * * * *
+
+AGENTS
+
+ AMERICA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
+ 64 & 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK
+
+ AUSTRALASIA OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS
+ 205 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE
+
+ CANADA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD.
+ 27 RICHMOND STREET WEST, TORONTO
+
+ INDIA MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD.
+ MACMILLAN BUILDING, BOMBAY
+ 309 BOW BAZAAR STREET, CALCUTTA
+
+ * * * * * *
+
+
+ [Illustration: LAUSANNE CATHEDRAL FROM MONTBENON]
+
+
+LAUSANNE
+
+Painted by
+
+J. HARDWICKE LEWIS & MAY HARDWICKE LEWIS
+
+Described by
+
+FRANCIS GRIBBLE
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Logo]
+
+London
+Adam and Charles Black
+1909
+
+
+
+
+Contents
+
+
+ PAGE
+ CHAPTER I
+ THE RULE OF SAVOY AND BERNE 1
+
+ CHAPTER II
+ EMIGRANTS AND IMMIGRANTS 11
+
+ CHAPTER III
+ GIBBON 15
+
+ CHAPTER IV
+ MADAME DE MONTOLIEU--DR. TISSOT 39
+
+ CHAPTER V
+ BENJAMIN CONSTANT AND MADAME DE STAËL 45
+
+ CHAPTER VI
+ THE REVOLUTION 61
+
+ CHAPTER VII
+ THE ENGLISH COLONY--THE EDUCATIONAL ADVANTAGES 65
+
+ CHAPTER VIII
+ VINET AND SAINTE-BEUVE--JUSTE OLIVIER 75
+
+ CHAPTER IX
+ NYON 83
+
+ CHAPTER X
+ THE FRENCH SHORE 89
+
+ CHAPTER XI
+ HISTORY OF THE FRENCH SHORE--FELIX V 95
+
+ CHAPTER XII
+ ST. FRANCIS DE SALES 99
+
+ CHAPTER XIII
+ JOSEPH DE MAISTRE 105
+
+ INDEX 109
+
+
+
+
+List of Illustrations
+
+
+ 1. Lausanne Cathedral from Montbenon _Frontispiece_
+
+ FACING PAGE
+ 2. Mont Blanc from above Morges 4
+
+ 3. Morges and the Lake from the Road to Vufflens 8
+
+ 4. Château de Vufflens, above Lausanne 12
+
+ 5. The Spires of St. François, Lausanne 16
+
+ 6. Château de Prangins 20
+
+ 7. Lausanne, looking East 26
+
+ 8. The Market Place, Lausanne 32
+
+ 9. La Tour de Haldimand--Ouchy--Lausanne 38
+
+ 10. Lausanne from the Signal 44
+
+ 11. In the Forest of Sauvabelin, above Lausanne 50
+
+ 12. Château de Blonay 56
+
+ 13. The Rhone Valley from Mont Pelerin 62
+
+ 14. A Street in St. Saphorin 68
+
+ 15. The Dents du Midi and La Tour from "Entre deux Villes" 74
+
+ 16. Lutry 80
+
+ 17. Cully from Epesse--Autumn 86
+
+ 18. Grandvaux from Cully 92
+
+ 19. The Rhone Valley from Chexbres 98
+
+ 20. The Church of St. Martin, Vevey 104
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE RULE OF SAVOY AND BERNE
+
+
+Though Lausanne is so near Geneva, its history, in historical times,
+has been widely different from that of the neighbouring town. Geneva
+enjoyed a modified independence from an early date, and became
+completely independent early in the sixteenth century. Lausanne,
+until nearly 300 years later, endured the domination, first of Savoy,
+and subsequently of Berne.
+
+The early history is obscure and full of vexed questions as well
+as unfamiliar names; but the central fact is that the Counts of
+Savoy--they were not promoted to be Dukes of Savoy until later--took
+possession of the Canton of Vaud, as well as of the Chablais and
+the lower Valais, after the death of the last of the Zaeringen, at
+the beginning of the thirteenth century. For the next 300 years
+they exercised overlordship, limited by the charters of the towns,
+and, in the case of Lausanne, by the jurisdiction of the Bishop--a
+complicated state of things which the Swiss historical societies may
+be left to unravel.
+
+It seems clear, however, that the Savoyards were no hard taskmasters.
+'The country of Vaud,' says its historian, Louis Vulliemin, 'was
+happy and proud to belong to them. They exacted little from it, and
+accorded it their powerful protection. The various States used to
+assemble at Moudon, the central town, summoned by the Council of
+Moudon, or by the Governor of Vaud, acting as the representative of
+the Prince. There was no palace. They met in an inn, or in the house
+of one of the citizens of the neighbourhood. Often they assembled in
+such small numbers that, for lack of a quorum, no decision could be
+taken.... No burdensome or unduly progressive measures were adopted.
+As a rule, the good old customs were confirmed. When a departure
+from them was resolved upon, it became law by receiving the sanction
+of the Prince. The business of the herald was to see that it was
+proclaimed, in the proper places, in a loud and intelligible voice.
+The Prince had sworn an oath to impose no new legislation that was
+not in accordance with the will of the nation as expressed by the
+estates of the realm.'
+
+The most notable of the Governors was Peter of Savoy--the same Peter
+of Savoy whom we meet in English history, fighting in the civil wars
+of the days of Simon de Montfort. His headquarters were in the Castle
+of Chillon, where he not only dispensed justice, but also amended the
+criminal law. It was the barbarous rule of the time that an offender
+who had been fined for a misdemeanour should have his nose cut off if
+he were unable to pay; Peter compelled even the Bishops to abandon
+that cruel custom. For the rest, to quote Vulliemin:
+
+'He received his vassals in the great hall of the Castle, where their
+coats of arms hung on the wall around that of the House of Savoy.
+The blowing of a horn announced that the meal was served. The ladies
+arrived in their emblazoned best. The chaplain read the grace from a
+volume bound in violet and gold--the precious depositary of Divine
+law and ecclesiastical ritual. After the feast came the hour of merry
+recreations. The Court fool and the minstrels took their seats by
+the side of the Prince, and the nobility thus passed their lives in
+junketing.'
+
+This is the same writer's picture of the lives of the burghers:
+
+'At Lausanne the three estates met in the month of May. In 1398 they
+submitted to a fresh drafting of the "Plaid général," which defined
+the respective rights of bishop, canons, and burghers. Three days
+were devoted to the hearing of suits. On the fourth day the Plaid,
+accompanied by elders, went the round of the streets, and ordered the
+necessary repairs. All the citizens were required to follow, carrying
+axes or stakes, so as to be able to lend a hand when required. The
+Bishop regaled the artificers with bread, wine, and eggs. In return,
+the blacksmiths had to shoe his horses, the saddlers to provide him
+with spurs and bridles, and the coachbuilders to supply him with a
+carriage. Three times a year the Seneschal passed in front of the
+cobblers' shops, and touched with his rod the pair of boots which
+he selected for his lordship. In time of war the prelate's army had
+to serve the Prince for a day and a night without pay, and as much
+longer as they might be wanted for wages. The Bishop's business was
+to ransom prisoners, protect the citizens from all injustice, and go
+to war on their behalf if necessary.
+
+ [Illustration: MONT BLANC FROM ABOVE MORGES]
+
+'Each district of the town had its special privileges. The fine
+for assault and battery was sixty livres in the city where the
+Bishop resided, sixty sous in the lower town, and only three sous
+outside the walls. The Bishop could not arrest a citizen without
+informing the burghers, or hold an inquest on the body of a dead man.
+The citizens of the Rue de la Bourg sat in judgment on criminals
+without assessors. Whenever they heard the summons, though they might
+be at the dinner-table, glass in hand, or in their shops measuring
+their cloth, they had to run off and give their opinion on the case.
+In return, they were exempt from certain taxes, had the sole right
+of placing hucksters' barrows in front of their shops, of using
+signboards, and of keeping inns.'
+
+It was the Reformation that terminated this primitive state of
+affairs. A succession of weak Governors had allowed the hold of the
+Dukes of Savoy over the country to be relaxed. It was impossible for
+them to maintain their authority when the people were indoctrinated
+with the new ideas. The end came when the Duke of Savoy threatened
+Geneva, and the Bernese marched through Vaud to the rescue, captured
+Chillon, delivered Bonivard, and kept the Canton for their reward.
+
+From the capture of Chillon onwards, Lausanne, like the rest of
+Vaud, was a Bernese dependency. Bernese governors (or baillis) were
+established in all the strong places, and Protestantism became the
+national religion.
+
+The conversion of the inhabitants was chiefly effected by Viret, a
+tailor's son, from Orbe, an excellent man, and a persuasive rather
+than an eloquent speaker. In 1536, after the fashion of the times,
+he, Calvin, and Farel challenged the Catholic theologians to a great
+debate. The monks, recognizing him as a formidable antagonist, had
+previously tried to get rid of him by surreptitious means. One of
+them had assaulted him at Payerne, and another had attempted to
+poison him at Geneva. At Lausanne they were obliged to argue with
+him, and failed still more conspicuously. The argument lasted for a
+week, and, at the end of the week, the populace, considering that the
+Protestant case was proved, proceeded to the cathedral to desecrate
+the altars and smash the images, while the governors confiscated
+the Church property and offered it for sale. 'It was thus,' writes
+Vulliemin, 'that Jost de Diesbach bought the church and vicarage of
+St. Christophe in order to turn the one into a baking house and the
+other into a country seat, and that Michel Augsburger transformed the
+ancient church of Baulmes into a stable for his cattle.'
+
+At the same time a disciplinary tribunal, somewhat on the lines of
+Calvin's theocracy at Geneva, was instituted to supervise the morals
+of the citizens; and absence from church was made punishable by fine,
+imprisonment, or banishment. Viret, it is true, was driven to resign
+his pastorate and leave Lausanne, because he was not allowed to
+refuse the Holy Communion to notorious evil-livers, and fifty other
+pastors followed his example; but the pastors who remained drafted
+a new moral code of sufficient severity, consisting, in the main,
+of a gloss upon each of the Ten Commandments, giving a list of the
+offences which it must be understood, for the future, to prohibit.
+Under the heading of Seventh Commandment, for example, it was
+written: 'This forbids fornication, drunkenness, baptismal and burial
+banquets, pride, dancing, and the use of tobacco and snuff.'
+
+A number of Sumptuary Laws were also adopted, to check the spread of
+luxury; and here again we cannot do better than quote Vulliemin:
+
+'The regulations prescribed the dress materials which each class of
+society might wear, and permitted none but the nobility to appear
+in gold-embroidered stuffs, brocades, collars of Paris point lace,
+and lace-embellished shoes. The women of the middle classes were
+forbidden to wear caps costing more than ten crowns, or any sort of
+false hair, or more than one petticoat at a time. One regulation
+settled the size of men's wigs, and another determined how low a
+lady's bodice might be cut. There was a continual battle between
+authority and fashion, and fashion was always contriving to evade
+the law. The purpose of the magistracy was not only to maintain
+the privileges of the upper classes, but also to fortify domestic
+morality against the imperious demands of vanity. A special
+government department was instituted to stop the use of tobacco. The
+baillis alone considered that the law did not apply to them; but one
+day, when one of these officials opened his snuff-box in church, the
+preacher interrupted him. "Here," he said, "one only snuffs the Word
+of God." Above all things, however, morality was the object of the
+jealous care of the magistrates of Vaud. So it was with an outburst
+of holy wrath that they heard that there was at Vevey "a dancing
+master, a Catholic, whose presence caused great scandals, at balls,
+in the evenings, between the two sexes." The stranger was banished,
+and the town was censured for its criminal toleration.'
+
+ [Illustration: MORGES AND THE LAKE FROM THE ROAD TO VUFFLENS]
+
+Such was the régime, and though, in externals, it resembled
+the régime at Geneva, there was one very significant difference.
+The Genevan discipline was self-imposed, and at least expressed the
+will of a working majority of the people. The Lausanne discipline
+represented the will of a conqueror imposed upon a subject race, and
+the conqueror had a rough and heavy hand, and rigorously excluded the
+subject people from participation in public affairs. The consequences
+can be traced in their history, habits, and manners.
+
+There was one poor feeble attempt at revolt. A certain Major Davel,
+after whom one of the steamboats on the lake is called--a Pietist,
+and perhaps a religious maniac--a soldier of fortune, whose merits
+had attracted the attention of such good judges as the Duke of
+Marlborough and Prince Eugène, mustered the militia of Cully and
+marched into Lausanne, declaring that he had come to set the Canton
+free. Asked for explanations, he replied that he had been guided by
+direct inspiration from on high. The defence did not save him, and he
+perished on the scaffold in 1723. The revolution at which he aimed
+was not to be accomplished for another eighty years, and the event
+constitutes almost the whole of the political history of Lausanne
+during the period under review.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+EMIGRANTS AND IMMIGRANTS
+
+
+Forbidden to seek careers at home, most of the aristocracy of Vaud
+went abroad to pursue fortune in the service of some foreign Power.
+There was always a good opening for them, whether as mercenary
+soldiers or as instructors of the young, and many of them achieved
+distinction and rose to high positions. Haldimand of Yverdon became
+a Lieutenant-General in the British Army and Governor of Canada.
+Réverdil of Nyon was first tutor to Christian VII. of Denmark, and
+afterwards his secretary. Amédée de Laharpe was one of Napoleon's
+generals; the only General, it is said, in the Army of Italy, who was
+not guilty of rapacity and extortion. Frédéric César de Laharpe held
+high office under Alexander I. of Russia; Dupuget of Yverdon was the
+tutor of the Russian Grand Dukes Nicolas and Michael; J. J. Cart was
+with Admiral Hood in America; Glayre became Polish Minister at St.
+Petersburg; Pache became Mayor of Paris; the list could be almost
+indefinitely extended.
+
+Most of these emigrants, moreover, suffered from the nostalgia which
+is characteristic of the Swiss. It was not enough for them to come
+home to die; they liked to return in middle age, and spend at home
+the money which they had earned abroad. And when they did return,
+they had, of course, no longer the homely wits of the home-keeping
+youths. They were men of experience, men of the world, men of
+polished manners and cosmopolitan culture. Their presence gave a new
+and a broader tone to Lausanne society. They were not to be driven
+to church like a flock of sheep, or forbidden to go to the theatre
+like a pack of schoolboys, or stood in the pillory for playing cards,
+or told by the preachers what they should eat or wherewithal they
+should be clothed. So far as they were concerned the discipline of
+the Consistory broke down, and the Sumptuary Laws did not apply to
+them. Their example liberalized even the clergy. They insisted upon
+making Lausanne a pleasant place to live in. Strangers found out that
+it was pleasant, and came to settle there in large numbers. There was
+already a foreign colony in Lausanne from quite an early date in the
+eighteenth century.
+
+ [Illustration: CHÂTEAU DE VUFFLENS, ABOVE LAUSANNE]
+
+Geneva had had its foreign colonists from a still earlier date, but
+they were exiles--Miles Coverdale, Bishop of Exeter, John Knox, John
+Bodley, William Whittingham, and others, who fled abroad to escape
+persecution by the Bloody Mary. With one accord they thanked their
+hosts for the hospitality bestowed upon them, and departed as soon as
+the accession of Elizabeth made it safe for them to do so. Some of
+the foreigners at Lausanne were also exiles, it is true, but hardly
+for conscience' sake, the opinions which had got them into trouble
+being more often political than religious. But they selected Lausanne
+as their place of residence because they liked it--not because it was
+a 'perfect school of Christ,' but because the site and the society
+were agreeable.
+
+Voltaire himself lived there for a little while before he settled
+down at Ferney, and encountered no theological objection to the
+theatrical performances which he organized. Gibbon, who was there at
+the time, living in the house of Pastor Pavilliard, declared that
+the entertainments, to which he was sometimes invited, 'refined in
+a visible degree the manners of Lausanne';[1] and the philosopher
+himself paid a tribute to those manners in a letter to D'Alembert,
+in which he wrote: 'All the amenities of society and sound philosophy
+have found their way into the part of Switzerland in which the
+climate is most agreeable and wealth abounds. The people here have
+succeeded in grafting the politeness of Athens upon the simplicity of
+Sparta.'
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[1] Gibbon's acquaintance with Voltaire was only slight. _Vidi
+tantum_, he writes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+GIBBON
+
+
+Voltaire belongs to Geneva rather than to Lausanne. The most
+distinguished of the strangers upon whom Lausanne has an exclusive
+claim is Gibbon.
+
+He was sent there, in the first instance, as a punishment for having
+embraced the Roman Catholic faith, and was lodged in the house of
+M. Pavilliard, a Calvinistic minister, whose instructions were to
+educate his pupil if possible, but to convert him at all costs. The
+desired conversion was effected, though it was more thorough than
+had been intended. Gibbon was persuaded to receive the Sacrament
+from a Protestant pastor, but never troubled himself with religion
+afterwards except in the capacity of historian. But, though he was
+at first treated like a schoolboy, and consoled himself for the
+loss of his liberty by getting drunk, he soon fell in love with the
+town--'Fanny Lausanne,' as he called it in a letter--and also fell
+in love with Mademoiselle Suzanne Curchod. That is one of the most
+famous of all literary love-stories, and one may properly pause here
+to relate it at length.
+
+Mademoiselle Curchod was the daughter of a country clergyman--very
+well educated, very beautiful, and very generally admired. Her
+earliest admirers were, naturally, the rising young ministers of the
+Gospel.[2] It amused her to invite them to sign documents, composed
+in playful imitation of legal contracts, binding themselves 'to come
+and preach at Crassier as often as she required, without waiting
+to be solicited, pressed, or entreated, seeing that the greatest
+of their pleasures was to oblige her on every possible occasion.'
+Her female friends, hearing of this, wrote to her expressing their
+disapproval, and strongly advising her to turn the preachers out of
+the house as soon as they had finished their sermons; but there is no
+evidence that she acted on their advice.
+
+ [Illustration: THE SPIRES OF ST. FRANÇOIS, LAUSANNE]
+
+Visiting Lausanne, she extended the circle of her admirers. Her
+bright intelligence enabled her to shine as a member of a certain
+Société du Printemps, and also of a certain Académie des Eaux--a
+debating club given to the discussion of such problems as 'Does
+an element of mystery really make love more agreeable?' or 'Can there
+be friendship between a man and a woman in the same sense as between
+two women or two men?' Her conduct in this connection was such that
+her friends warned her that her desire to make herself agreeable to
+young men was too clearly advertised; but it does not appear that
+the warning made any impression on her. At all events, she was very
+successful in making herself agreeable to Gibbon, then a lad about
+eighteen years of age. 'Saw Mademoiselle Curchod. Omnia vincit
+amor, et nos cedamus amori,' is one of the early entries in his
+diary; and we have a picture of Gibbon, at about the same date, from
+Mademoiselle Curchod's own pen. In middle age--as we can see from his
+portraits--he was an ugly, ungainly, podgy little man; but it is not
+thus that he appears in the portrait drawn by the woman who loved him.
+
+'He has beautiful hair,' Mademoiselle Curchod writes, 'a pretty hand,
+and the air of a man of rank. His face is so intellectual and strange
+that I know no one like him. It has so much expression that one is
+always finding something new in it. His gestures are so appropriate
+that they add much to his speech. In a word, he has one of those
+extraordinary faces that one never tires of trying to depict. He
+knows the respect that is due to women. His courtesy is easy without
+verging on familiarity. He dances moderately well.'
+
+So these two naturally--and rightly and properly--fell in love; they
+must have seemed each other's ideal complements, if ever lovers were.
+But they were not to marry. The story of their attachment, their
+separation, and their subsequent Platonic friendship is one of the
+romances of literature. Gibbon himself has told the story in one of
+the most frequently quoted passages of his autobiography. His version
+of it is inexact and misleading; but it must be quoted, if only in
+order that it may be criticized:
+
+'I need not blush,' he writes, 'at recollecting the object of my
+choice; and though my love was disappointed of success, I am rather
+proud that I was once capable of feeling such a pure and exalted
+sentiment. The personal attractions of Mademoiselle Susan Curchod
+were embellished by the virtues and talents of the mind. Her fortune
+was humble, but her family was respectable. Her mother, a native of
+France, had preferred her religion to her country. The profession
+of her father did not extinguish the moderation and philosophy of
+his temper, and he lived content with a small salary and laborious
+duty in the obscure lot of minister of Crassy, in the mountains
+that separate the Pays de Vaud from the county of Burgundy. In
+the solitude of a sequestered village he bestowed a liberal, and
+even learned, education on his only daughter. She surpassed his
+hopes by her proficiency in the sciences and languages; and in her
+short visits to some relations at Lausanne, the wit, the beauty,
+and erudition of Mademoiselle Curchod were the theme of universal
+applause. The report of such a prodigy awakened my curiosity; I
+saw and loved. I found her learned without pedantry, lively in
+conversation, pure in sentiment, and elegant in manners; and the
+first sudden emotion was fortified by the habits and knowledge of a
+more familiar acquaintance. She permitted me to make two or three
+visits at her father's house. I passed some happy days there, in the
+mountains of Burgundy, and her parents honourably encouraged the
+connection. In a calm retirement the gay vanity of youth no longer
+fluttered in her bosom, and I might presume to hope that I had
+made some impression on a virtuous heart. At Crassy and Lausanne I
+indulged my dream of felicity; but on my return to England I soon
+discovered that my father would not hear of this strange alliance,
+and that, without his consent, I was myself destitute and helpless.
+After a painful struggle I yielded to my fate; I sighed as a lover,
+I obeyed as a son; my wound was insensibly healed by time, absence,
+and the habits of a new life. My cure was accelerated by a faithful
+report of the tranquillity and cheerfulness of the lady herself, and
+my love subsided in friendship and esteem.'
+
+Such is Gibbon's story, which is also the accepted story. It is,
+perhaps, a palliation of its inaccuracies that, at the time when he
+wrote it down, he and Mademoiselle Curchod--then Madame Necker--were
+on such pleasant terms of friendship that neither of them cared to
+remember or be reminded that either had ever treated the other badly.
+We shall come to that matter presently; here it is proper that the
+inaccuracies should be noted.
+
+ [Illustration: CHÂTEAU DE PRANGINS
+ THE STEPS BY WHICH JOSEPH BUONAPARTE ESCAPED IN 1815]
+
+Gibbon's story, it will be observed, gives us the impression that,
+on getting home, he lost no time in opening his heart to his
+father, and, having done this, lost no further time in acquainting
+Mademoiselle Curchod with his father's views. M. d'Haussonville
+tells us that he left Lausanne in 1758, kept Mademoiselle Curchod
+waiting four years for a letter,[3] and then in 1762 sat down and
+wrote, breaking off the engagement. One shrinks from the attempt to
+picture the feelings of the poor girl who, after enduring suspense,
+and trying to frame excuses for silence, broke the seal of the
+long-expected missive, only to read:
+
+'I do not know how to begin this letter. Yet begin it I must. I take
+up my pen, I drop it, I resume it. This commencement shows you what
+it is that I am about to say. Spare me the rest. Yes, Mademoiselle, I
+must renounce you for ever. The sentence is passed; my heart laments
+it; but, in the presence of my duty, every other consideration must
+be silent....
+
+'My father spoke of the cruelty of deserting him, and of sending him
+prematurely to his grave, of the cowardice of trampling underfoot my
+duty to my country. I withdrew to my room and remained there for two
+hours. I will not attempt to picture to you my state of mind. But I
+left my room to tell my father that I agreed to sacrifice to him the
+happiness of my life.
+
+'Mademoiselle, may you be happier than I can ever hope to be! This
+will always be my prayer; this will even be my consolation.... Assure
+M. and Madame Curchod of my respect, my esteem, and my regrets.
+Good-bye. I shall always remember Mademoiselle Curchod as the most
+worthy, the most charming, of women. May she not entirely forget a
+man who does not deserve the despair to which he is a prey.'
+
+Even this, however, was not the end of the story, though one would
+think it was if one had only Gibbon's narrative to go by. In 1763
+he revisited Lausanne, and his own story of his sojourn does not so
+much as mention Mademoiselle Curchod's name. One would gather from
+it either that he did not see her, or that love had already on both
+sides 'subsided in friendship and esteem.' But when the Vicomte
+d'Haussonville was given access to the archives of the Necker family,
+he found letters proving that this was not by any means the case.
+
+Mademoiselle Curchod's father was then dead, and she was living
+at Geneva, supporting her mother by teaching. Some of her
+friends--notably Pastor Moultou--tried to bring Gibbon to a sense of
+the obligations which they felt he owed to her. Rousseau was brought
+into the business, and expressed an opinion which led Gibbon to
+retort, 'That extraordinary man, whom I admire and pity, should have
+been less precipitate in condemning the moral character and conduct
+of a stranger.' It is useless, however, to try to piece the whole
+story together--the materials are inadequate. One can only take the
+letters which the Vicomte d'Haussonville has published, and which, as
+he points out, are by no means the whole of the correspondence, and
+see what sidelights they throw upon it.
+
+First we have one of Mademoiselle Curchod's letters. Whether she
+wrote it because she had met Gibbon and found his manner towards her
+changed, or was perplexed and troubled because he had not sought a
+meeting, we have no means of knowing. But it is quite clear that she
+wrote it under the sense of having been treated badly.
+
+'For five years,' she writes, 'I have, by my unique and, indeed,
+inconceivable behaviour, done sacrifice to this chimera. At last
+my heart, romantic as it is, has been convinced of my mistake. I
+ask you, on my knees, to dissuade me from my madness in loving you.
+Subscribe the full confession of your indifference, and my soul will
+adapt itself to the changed conditions; certainty will bring me the
+tranquillity for which I sigh. You will be the most contemptible of
+men if you refuse to be frank with me. God will punish you, in spite
+of my prayers, if there is the least hypocrisy in your reply.'
+
+The reply is lost. Mademoiselle Curchod presumably destroyed it
+because it pained her. Apparently it contained a proposal of Platonic
+friendship as a substitute for love. At all events, Mademoiselle
+Curchod's answer seems to accept that situation, whether with
+ulterior designs or not, for it begins:
+
+'What is fortune to me? Besides, it is not to you that I have
+sacrificed it, but to an imaginary being which will never exist
+elsewhere than in a silly, romantic head like mine. From the moment
+when your letter disillusioned me, you resumed your place, in my
+eyes, on the same footing as other men; and, after being the only man
+whom I could love, you have become one of those to whom I feel the
+least drawn, because you are the one that bears the least resemblance
+to my chimerical ideal.... Follow out the plan that you propose,
+place your attachment for me on the same footing as that of my other
+friends, and you will find me as confiding, as tender, and, at the
+same time, as indifferent as I am to them.'
+
+And the writer proceeds to take up the Platonic position at once, to
+criticize Gibbon's first essay in literature, to offer him useful
+introductions, and to ask him to advise her whether she would be
+likely to be well treated if she took a situation as 'lady companion'
+in England.
+
+Even in this Platonic correspondence, however, Gibbon, with a
+prudence beyond his years, seems to have scented danger.
+
+'Mademoiselle,' he wrote, 'must you be for ever pressing upon me a
+happiness which sound reason compels me to decline? I have forfeited
+your love. Your friendship is left to me, and it bestows so much
+honour upon me that I cannot hesitate. I accept it, mademoiselle,
+as a precious offering in exchange for my own friendship, which is
+already yours, and as a blessing of which I know the value too well
+to be disposed to lose it.
+
+'But this correspondence, mademoiselle, I am sensible of the
+pleasures which it brings me, but, at the same time, I am conscious
+of its dangers. I feel the dangers that it has for me; I fear the
+dangers that it may have for both of us. Permit me to avoid those
+dangers by my silence. Forgive my fears, mademoiselle; they have
+their origin in my esteem for you.'
+
+And he proceeded to answer her questions concerning the position and
+prospects of 'lady companions' in England, expecting, no doubt, that
+he would hear no more from her.
+
+Even then, however, the story was not ended. The most passionate of
+Mademoiselle Curchod's letters bears a later date. It is the letter
+of a woman who feels that she has been treated shamefully. If it were
+not that Mademoiselle Curchod made a happy marriage so very soon
+afterwards, one would also say that it was the letter of a woman
+whose heart was broken. One gathers from it that, while Mademoiselle
+Curchod appreciated Gibbon's difficulty in marrying her while he was
+dependent upon his father, she was willing to wait for him until his
+father's death should leave him free to follow the impulse of his
+heart. In the meantime she reproaches him for having caused her to
+reject other offers of marriage, and protests that it is not true,
+whatever calumnious gossips may have said, that, in Gibbon's absence,
+she has flirted with other men. Above all, she protests that she has
+not flirted with Gibbon's great friend, M. Deyverdun. Her last words
+are:
+
+ 'I am treating you as an honest man of the world, who is
+ incapable of breaking his promise, of seduction, or of
+ treachery, but who has, instead of that, amused himself in
+ racking my heart with tortures, well prepared, and well carried
+ into effect. I will not threaten you, therefore, with the wrath
+ of heaven--the expression that escaped from me in my first
+ emotion. But I assure you, without laying any claim to the gift
+ of prophecy, that you will one day regret the irreparable loss
+ that you have incurred in alienating for ever the too frank and
+ tender heart of
+
+ 'S. C.'
+
+ [Illustration: LAUSANNE, LOOKING EAST]
+
+The rest is silence; and the presumption is strong that these were
+actually the last words which sealed the estrangement. If it were not
+for Mademoiselle Curchod's subsequent attitude towards him, one would
+be bound to say that Gibbon behaved abominably. But, as we shall see
+presently, her resentment was not enduring. Perhaps she was aware of
+extenuating circumstances that we do not know of. Perhaps, in her
+heart of hearts, she was conscious of having spread her net to catch
+a husband who then seemed a very brilliant match to the daughter of
+the country clergyman. The letter of the friend who begged her not
+to advertise so clearly her desire to make herself agreeable to men
+would certainly lend some colour to the suggestion. At any rate,
+since she herself forgave Gibbon, it seems unfair for anyone else to
+press the case against him.
+
+It was nearly twenty years later--in 1783--that Gibbon decided to
+make Lausanne his home.
+
+A good deal of water had flowed under the bridge in the meantime.
+He had written, and published, half of his History; and that half
+had sufficed to make him famous. He had been an officer in the
+militia and a Member of Parliament. He had been a constant figure in
+fashionable society, and an occasional figure in literary society;
+a fellow-member with Charles James Fox of Boodle's, White's, and
+Brooks's; a fellow-member of the Literary Club with Johnson, Burke,
+Adam Smith, Oliver Goldsmith, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Sir Joseph
+Banks. He had held office in the department of the Board of Trade,
+and lost it at the time of the coalition between Fox and North. His
+applications for employment in the Diplomatic Service--whether as
+Secretary to the Embassy at Paris or as Minister Plenipotentiary at
+Berne--had been politely rejected. And he had become a middle-aged
+bachelor whose income, unless supplemented by the emoluments of some
+public office, hardly sufficed for the demands of his social position.
+
+In these circumstances it occurred to him to propose to his friend,
+M. Deyverdun--the same M. Deyverdun with whom Mademoiselle Curchod
+vowed that she had never flirted--that they should keep house
+together at Lausanne. M. Deyverdun, who was like himself a confirmed
+bachelor of moderate means, and had a larger house than he wanted,
+was delighted with the proposal. All Gibbon's friends and relatives
+told him that he was making a fool of himself; but he knew better.
+He sold all his property, except his library, and 'bade a long
+farewell to the _fumum et opes strepitumque Romæ_.' His first winter,
+as he puts it in his delightful style, 'was given to a general
+embrace without nice discrimination of persons and characters.' The
+comprehensive embrace completed, he settled down to work.
+
+His life at Lausanne is faithfully mirrored in his letters, more
+particularly in his letters to Lord Sheffield. It was at once a
+luxurious and an industrious life. One fact which stands out clearly
+is that Gibbon took no exercise. He boasts that, in a period of five
+years, he never moved five miles from Lausanne; he apologizes for a
+corpulence which makes it absolutely impossible for him to cross the
+Great Saint Bernard; he admits that, when he entertained Mr. Fox, he
+did not go for walks with that statesman, but hired a guide to do so
+on his behalf. He also drank a great deal of Madeira and Malvoisie.
+His letters to Lord Sheffield are full of appeals for pipes of these
+exhilarating beverages. He declares that they are necessary for the
+preservation of his health, and appears to have persuaded himself
+that they were good for gout. The consequence was that he had several
+severe attacks of that distressing malady.
+
+Gout or no gout, however, he freely enjoyed the relaxation of social
+intercourse. He was never tired of pointing out to his correspondents
+that, whereas in London he was nobody in particular, in Lausanne he
+was a leader of society. His position there was, in fact, similar
+in many ways to that of Voltaire at Geneva; though he differed from
+Voltaire in always keeping on good terms with all his neighbours. To
+be invited to his parties was no less a mark of distinction than it
+had been, a generation earlier, to be invited to the philosopher's
+parties at Ferney. One of the letters tells us how he gave a ball,
+and stole away to bed at 2 a.m., leaving the young people, his
+guests, to keep it up till after sunrise. He also gave frequent
+dinners, and still more frequent card-parties. When the gout was very
+bad, he gave card-parties in his bedroom.
+
+Distinguished strangers often came to see him, and gave Lausanne the
+tone of a fashionable resort. 'You talk of Lausanne,' he writes,
+'as a place of retirement, yet, from the situation and freedom of
+the Pays de Vaud, all nations, and all extraordinary characters are
+astonished to meet each other. The Abbé Raynal, the great Gibbon,
+and Mercier, author of the "Tableau de Paris," have been in the same
+room. The other day the Prince and Princesse de Ligne, the Duke
+and Duchess d'Ursel, etc., came from Brussels on purpose to act a
+comedy.' And again: 'A few weeks ago, as I was walking on our terrace
+with M. Tissot, the celebrated physician; M. Mercier, the author
+of the "Tableau de Paris"; the Abbé Raynal; Monsieur, Madame, and
+Mademoiselle Necker; the Abbé de Bourbon, a natural son of Lewis
+the Fifteenth; the Hereditary Prince of Brunswick, Prince Henry of
+Prussia, and a dozen Counts, Barons, and extraordinary persons,' etc.
+
+From time to time he faced the question whether it would be well to
+marry. Madame Necker dissuaded him from the adventure on the ground
+that in order to marry happily it is necessary to marry young. It is
+not certain that her advice was disinterested, but it was good advice
+to give to a man who, after expressing his readiness to adopt 'some
+expedient, even the most desperate, to secure the domestic society
+of a female companion,' summed up his sentiments upon the subject in
+this candid language:
+
+'I am not in love with any of the hyænas of Lausanne, though there
+are some who keep their claws tolerably well pared. Sometimes, in a
+solitary mood, I have fancied myself married to one or another of
+those whose society and conversation are the most pleasing to me;
+but when I have painted in my fancy all the probable consequences of
+such a union, I have started from my dream, rejoiced in my escape,
+and ejaculated a thanksgiving that I was still in possession of my
+natural freedom.'
+
+ [Illustration: THE MARKET-PLACE, LAUSANNE]
+
+This, however, was not written until after the History was finished.
+Gibbon never felt the need of a female companion so long as he had
+his work to occupy him. The fact that he began to feel it
+acutely as soon as ever the work was done gives an added pathos to
+this, the most famous and the most frequently quoted passage of his
+memoirs:
+
+'I have presumed to mark the moment of conception: I shall now
+commemorate the hour of my final deliverance. It was on the day,
+or rather night, of the 27th of June, 1787, between the hours of
+eleven and twelve, that I wrote the last lines of the last page,
+in a summer-house in my garden. After laying down my pen, I took
+several turns in a _berceau_, or covered walk of acacias, which
+commands a prospect of the country, the lake, and the mountains. The
+air was temperate, the sky was serene, the silver orb of the moon
+was reflected from the waters, and all Nature was silent. I will not
+dissemble the first emotions on the recovery of my freedom, and,
+perhaps, the establishment of my fame. But my pride was soon humbled,
+and a sober melancholy was spread over my mind by the idea that I had
+taken an everlasting leave of an old and agreeable companion, and
+that whatsoever might be the future fate of my History, the life of
+the historian must be short and precarious.'
+
+The life of the historian was, in fact, destined to last only for
+another six years--years in which he sometimes was desperately
+anxious to relieve his loneliness, aggravated by the death of
+Deyverdun, by seeking 'the domestic society of a female companion,'
+but inclined, on the whole, to the opinion encouraged by Madame
+Necker, that the remedy would be worse than the disease. We probably
+shall not be wrong in conjecturing that the pleasure which he derived
+from Madame Necker's correspondence and society assisted him in
+coming to this decision. At any rate, we must admit that there are
+few literary romances more remarkable than this story, of the renewal
+of love some thirty years or so after a lovers' quarrel.
+
+The lovers parted, as we have seen, with high-strung feelings--at
+least upon the lady's side. They met again soon after Mademoiselle
+Curchod had accepted the heart and hand of Jacques Necker, the rich
+Parisian banker, destined to become Louis XVI.'s Minister of Finance.
+Gibbon, coming to Paris, called, and was well received. We have
+accounts of the visit from both of them. Madame Necker says that her
+vanity was flattered because Gibbon appeared to be dazzled by the
+contemplation of her wealth. Gibbon complains that he was not taken
+very seriously, that M. Necker invited him to supper every evening,
+and went to bed, leaving him alone with his wife. The philosopher
+Balzac would have called him a fool, and classed him with the
+_prédestinés_; but it does not appear that scandal, or occasion
+for scandal, or anything worse than the interchange of sentimental
+_persiflage_, resulted.
+
+A gap in the history of their friendship follows, but in 1776 we
+find the Neckers visiting Gibbon in Bentinck Street. Gibbon writes
+patronizingly of the husband as 'a sensible, good-natured creature,'
+and of the wife he says: 'I live with her just as I used to do twenty
+years ago, laugh at her Paris varnish, and oblige her to become a
+simple, reasonable Suissesse.'
+
+We need not interpret this statement _au pied de la lettre_, but the
+visit certainly marks a stage in the story of their intimacy. Gibbon
+went to see the Neckers in Paris in the following year, and after his
+return to London Madame du Deffand told him how she had talked to
+Madame Necker about him. 'We talked of M. Gibbon. Of what else? Of M.
+Gibbon--continually of M. Gibbon.' And Madame Necker herself wrote,
+at about the same time, with reference to the publication of the
+first volumes of 'The Decline and Fall':
+
+'Wherever I go your books shall follow me, and give me pleasure and
+happiness. If you write, too, your letters will be welcome and
+appreciated. If you do not write ... but I refuse to contemplate this
+painful possibility.'
+
+Gibbon's migration to Lausanne and the Neckers' purchase of their
+famous country seat at Coppet united them by still closer ties, and
+one cannot help noticing that at this period of their lives--when
+they were both something over fifty years of age--Madame Necker's
+letters to Gibbon became at once more frequent and more affectionate.
+Some of those letters, indeed, can only be distinguished from
+love-letters by reading into them our knowledge of Madame Necker's
+reputation for propriety. We have seen her dissuading Gibbon from
+marriage on the ground that to marry late is to marry unhappily.
+Another reason which she gives is that 'without a miracle it would be
+impossible to find a woman worthy of you.' Of a contemplated visit to
+Lausanne she says: 'I am looking forward with a delightful sentiment
+to the day I am to pass with you.' And afterwards:
+
+'Returning here, and finding only the tombs of those I loved so well,
+I found you, as it were, a solitary tree whose shade still covers the
+desert which separates me from the first years of my life.'
+
+And in another letter, more sentimental still, we read:
+
+'Come back to us when you are free. The moment of your leisure ought
+always to belong to her who has been _your first love and your last_.
+I cannot make up my mind which of these titles is the sweeter and the
+dearer to my heart.'
+
+What are we to make of it all? Nothing, assuredly, that entitles us
+to cast a stone at Madame Necker, or to express for her husband a
+pity which he never felt for himself. Yet one imagines that after M.
+Necker, who kept such early hours, had retired to his well-earned
+repose, there must sometimes have been certain sentimental
+communings, in which the old note of _persiflage_ was no longer to
+be heard. One listens in fancy to the regrets of these two who never
+forgot that they had once been lovers--regrets, no doubt, not openly
+expressed, but only coyly hinted--for the things that might have been.
+
+The regrets, we may take it, were tempered by the lurking
+consciousness that things were really better as they were. The lovers
+must have known that, if they had married on nothing a year, the one
+would never have written his history and the other would never have
+had her salon, but they would have been two struggling nonentities
+whom the world would never have heard of. They must have felt, too,
+that the success in life which they had achieved separately, but
+could not possibly have achieved together, had meant much to them:
+that in winning it they had fulfilled their destinies; that their
+tempers would have soured if they had had to live without it. All
+this they must have admitted to themselves, and even in their most
+candid moments, to each other. And yet--and yet----
+
+ [Illustration: LA TOUR DE HALDIMAND, OUCHY, LAUSANNE]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[2] Poems addressed to her by these young theologians may be found in
+defunct magazines and annuals.
+
+[3] This is not quite accurate. The letter which M. d'Haussonville
+dates 1762 conveys a salutation to Pastor Curchod, who died in 1760.
+It must have been written, therefore, not in 1762, but in 1758 or
+1759.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+MADAME DE MONTOLIEU--DR. TISSOT
+
+
+To us, as we look backwards, Gibbon in Lausanne society figures as
+a Triton among the minnows, but to his contemporaries he probably
+seemed less important. He certainly did to his contemporaries in
+London. Boswell, as we all know, considered him the intellectual
+inferior of Dr. Johnson; and there is the story of the Duke of St.
+Albans accepting a presentation copy of his 'Decline and Fall of the
+Roman Empire' with the genial remark, 'Hallo! Another two d----d
+thick volumes! Always scribble, scribble, scribble, eh, Mr. Gibbon!'
+No one in Lausanne took quite such a Philistine tone as that, but
+it is doubtful whether even Lausanne would have voted him a higher
+position than that of _Primus inter pares_. Lausanne, after all, had
+its native notables, and was too near to its celebrities to see them
+in their true perspective. It had, among others, Madame de Montolieu.
+
+She was a beauty as well as a woman of letters, and Gibbon himself
+admired her in both capacities. He wrote to Lord Sheffield that
+there was 'danger' for him, and he was in danger of making himself
+ridiculous if of nothing worse. The story is told that he fell
+upon his knees to make a declaration of love to Madame Montolieu,
+and being too fat to rise without assistance, had to be helped to
+his feet by a domestic servant summoned for the purpose. He bore
+no malice, however, but even persuaded the lady to publish a novel
+which she had written 'to amuse an aged relative,' offering, when she
+objected, to attest his belief in its merits by printing it under his
+own signature.
+
+The novel in question was 'Caroline de Lichtfield,' which has passed
+through many editions--the first in 1786 and the last in 1846--and
+been translated into English. Its enthusiastic reception launched
+its author upon a career. Her collected works, including a French
+translation of 'The Swiss Family Robinson,' fill 105 volumes; and a
+host of imitators arose. 'Well! are they still turning out novels at
+Lausanne?' was one of the questions that Napoleon asked the Council
+of the Helvetian Republic; and Louis Bridel, brother of the more
+famous Doyen Bridel, writing in 1787, drew a graphic picture of the
+Lausanne ladies, all with one accord engaged in literary toil:
+
+'The romance of "Caroline," and the renown which it has brought its
+author, has caused such a ferment in our feminine heads that, jealous
+of the reputation of one of their number, they cover an incredible
+quantity of paper with ink. They pass their days in writing novels;
+their toilette tables are no longer covered with chiffons, but with
+sheets of notepaper; and, if one unfolds a curlpaper, one is sure
+to find that it is a fragment of a love-letter, or of a romantic
+description.'
+
+Madame de Charrière, a rival craftswoman of whom we shall have to
+speak, the author of 'Lettres de Lausanne,' did not like Madame de
+Montolieu. She called her a 'provincial coquette,' and ridiculed
+her 'pretentions,' maintaining that, though her countrymen were
+attracted by her charms, 'the English who boarded with her stepfather
+considered her a disgustingly dirty and untidy person.' But Gibbon,
+who was not only English but a man of taste, thought otherwise, as we
+have seen; and his judgment may be accepted as the less prejudiced of
+the two. And Madame de Montolieu's literary success, at any rate, is
+not to be disputed. She lived to be an octogenarian, and retained
+her popularity until the last.[4] She and her only child, dying
+simultaneously, were buried in the same grave, on which may be read
+the inscription, 'Here I am, O Lord, with the son whom Thou hast
+given me!'
+
+Dr. Tissot, whom we have already met on the Terrace at Lausanne, is
+another celebrity of the period who merits further mention. He and
+Gibbon once danced a minuet together at an evening party--a penalty
+imposed upon them in a game of 'forfeits.' They thus, says Tissot's
+German biographer, Eynard, 'revived the innocent pleasures of Arcadia
+of old'; but the great physician, is less famous for the way in which
+he took his pleasures than for the way in which he did his work.
+Tronchin of Geneva had been the medical attendant of the cosmopolitan
+aristocracy, had anticipated Rousseau in exhorting mothers to nurse
+their own children, and had ventured, with a rude hand, to open the
+windows of the Palace of Versailles. Tissot of Lausanne aspired to
+be the medical adviser of the common people. 'While,' he wrote, 'we
+are attending the most brilliant portion of humanity in the cities,
+the most useful members of society are perishing miserably in the
+country villages.'
+
+Obviously, he could not do much personally to cure the ailments of a
+scattered rural population; but he did what he might to help them by
+writing popular manuals of hygiene. Some of his advice is not even
+now out of date. He denounced the vice of overfeeding the delicate:
+'The more one loves an invalid, the more one tries to make him eat;
+and that is to kill him with kindness.' He also spoke vigorous words
+against excessive tea-drinking:
+
+'These teapots full of hot water which I find on people's tables
+remind me of the box of Pandora from which all evils issued--but with
+this difference, that they do not even leave hope behind, but, being
+a cause of hypochondria, disseminate melancholy and despair.'
+
+These excellent pamphlets brought Tissot fame and the friendship of
+the great. Joseph II. offered him a medical chair at the University
+of Padua, which he occupied for two years. He was offered, but did
+not accept, the posts of physician at the Courts of Hanover and
+Poland. The Prince of Wurtemberg--he whom Rousseau addressed in the
+famous letter beginning 'If I had had the misfortune to be born a
+Prince'--settled at Lausanne in order to be near him; and many
+interesting people sought his advice by correspondence. In particular
+a certain young gunner wrote from Ajaccio to ask what his uncle, an
+Archdeacon, had better take for the gout. The orthography is curious:
+'S'il asseie de remuer les genoux, des douleurs égus lui font cesser
+son accion.' The signature is 'BUONAPARTE, _Officier au régiment de
+la Fère_.'
+
+ [Illustration: LAUSANNE FROM THE SIGNAL]
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[4] She sheltered Madame de Genlis in her flight from the Revolution.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+BENJAMIN CONSTANT AND MADAME DE STAËL
+
+
+Next, though they do not become interesting until a somewhat later
+date, we may mention the Constants: Rosalie de Constant, the witty
+little hunchback whose sentimental correspondence with Bernardin de
+Saint-Pierre has recently been published, and her more famous cousin,
+Benjamin Constant de Rebecque, the story of whose love for Madame de
+Staël has recently been revived.[5] That is another story which will
+be here in its proper place.
+
+Benjamin was a man of many love-affairs; 'Constant the inconstant'
+was the name that women called him by. He was the son of a Swiss
+soldier of fortune, and had a cosmopolitan education at Oxford and
+Edinburgh, in Belgium and in Germany. In his youth he held the
+post of Chamberlain at the Court of Brunswick, where he acquired
+distingished manners. He was brilliant, though shallow, and there
+was something Wertheresque about him.
+
+Born in 1767, he was married, in 1789, to the ugliest of the Duchess
+of Brunswick's maids of honour. He said afterwards that he had
+married her for no particular reason that he could remember, but that
+his reasons for divorcing her were clear enough. After his separation
+from her, he consoled himself by an intrigue with Madame de
+Charrière--a Dutch lady, married to a Switzer, residing at Colombier,
+near Neuchâtel, and known as the authoress of several sentimental
+novels. It was an affair that could hardly have lasted long in any
+case, seeing that the lady was twenty-seven years older than her
+lover. As a matter of fact it came to a quick end when the lover met
+Madame de Staël.
+
+The details of that meeting are curious. Being at Lausanne, Benjamin
+Constant set out to call on Madame de Staël at Coppet. His relatives
+already knew, and he was interested to make her acquaintance. It
+happened that he met Madame de Staël on the road, driving from
+Coppet to Lausanne. He stopped the carriage and introduced himself.
+She invited him to get in, and drove him back. Finding his company
+agreeable, she pressed him to stay to supper with her. He did so,
+and was farther rewarded by an invitation to breakfast with his
+hostess on the following morning.
+
+It was to Madame de Charrière herself that Benjamin Constant first
+confided the impression that Madame de Staël had made upon him.
+
+'It is the most interesting acquaintance that I have ever made,'
+he wrote. 'Seldom have I seen such a combination of alluring
+and dazzling qualities, such brilliance, and such good sense, a
+friendliness so expansive and so cultivated, such generosity of
+sentiment, and such gentle courtesy. She is the second woman I have
+met for whom I could have counted the world well lost--you know who
+was the first. She is, in fact, a being apart--a superior being, such
+as one meets but once in a century.'
+
+Having read that, Madame de Charrière knew that she had passed for
+ever out of Benjamin Constant's life. His own writings give us a
+glimpse of the early days of the new intimacy. Two passages from his
+diary, the second supplementing the first, supply the picture. Thus
+we read, on one day:
+
+'I had agreed with Madame de Staël that, in order to avoid
+compromising her, I should never stay with her later than midnight.
+Whatever the charm of her conversation, and however passionate my
+desire for something more than her conversation, I had to submit to
+this rule. But this evening, the time having passed more quickly
+than usual, I pulled out my watch to demonstrate that it was not yet
+time for me to go. But the inexorable minute-hand having deceived
+me, in a moment of childish anger I flung the instrument of my
+condemnation on the floor and broke it. "How silly you are!" Madame
+de Staël exclaimed. But what a smile I perceived shining through her
+reproaches! Decidedly my broken watch will do me a good turn.'
+
+And the next day we find the entry:
+
+'I have not bought myself a new watch. I do not need one any more.'
+
+For a time the affair proceeded satisfactorily, no serious cloud
+appearing on the horizon until the death of M. de Staël. Then, of
+course, Madame de Staël was free to marry her lover, and Benjamin
+Constant proposed that she should do so. But she would not. One
+reason was that she did not wish to change a name that her writings
+had made famous; another, and perhaps a weightier one, that, though
+she loved Benjamin, she had no confidence in him--'Constant the
+inconstant' was inconstant still. Though he loved Madame de Staël,
+he loved other women too. His intimacy with Madame Talma, the actor's
+wife, was notorious, and was not the only intimacy of the kind with
+which rumour credited him. Altogether, he was not the sort of man
+whom any woman could marry with any certainty that he would make her
+happy.
+
+So Madame de Staël refused to marry Benjamin Constant, and with her
+refusal their relations entered upon a fresh and interesting phase.
+Henceforward the story is one of subsiding passion on his part,
+and very desperate efforts on hers to fan the dying embers of his
+desire. Again and again he tried to break with her; again and again
+she overwhelmed him with her reproaches, and brought him back, a
+penitent slave, suing for the renewal of her favour. The time when
+these things happened was the time when her salon at Coppet was
+at the zenith of its renown. The story is told for us by Benjamin
+Constant himself, in his 'Journal Intime,' a diary not written for
+publication, but published, long after his death, in the _Revue
+Internationale_,[6] in 1887.
+
+The tone, at first, is that of a man whom lassitude has overtaken
+after elegant debauchery. Benjamin Constant is only thirty-seven,
+yet he already feels himself an old man, whose powers are failing,
+who is no longer capable of strong emotion, or even of taking an
+intelligent interest in life. He writes, in fact, as if he were very
+tired. When something happens to remind him of his old attachment to
+Madame de Charrière, he writes thus:
+
+'It is seven years since I saw her--ten since our intimacy ended. How
+easily I then used to break every tie that bored me! How confident
+I was that I could always form others when I pleased! How clearly
+I felt that my life was mine to do what I liked with, and what a
+difference ten years have made! Now everything seems precarious,
+and ready to fly away from me. Even the privileges that I have do
+not make me happy. But I have passed the age of giving up anything,
+because I feel that I am powerless to replace anything.'
+
+ [Illustration: IN THE FOREST OF SAUVABELIN, ABOVE LAUSANNE]
+
+He describes--sometimes with a languid resignation, and sometimes
+with a peevish resentment--Madame de Staël's repeated endeavours to
+drag him, a more or less reluctant victim, at her chariot wheels.
+This is a very typical entry:
+
+'A lively supper with the Prince de Belmonte. Left alone with Madame
+de Staël. The storm gradually rises. A fearful scene, lasting till
+three o'clock in the morning--on my lack of sensibility, my
+untrustworthiness, the failure of my actions to correspond with
+my sentiments. Alas! I would be glad to escape from monotonous
+lamentations, not over real calamities, but upon the universal laws
+of nature, and upon the advent of old age. I should be glad if she
+would not ask me for love after a _liaison_ of ten years' standing,
+at a time when we are both nearly forty years old, and after I have
+declared, times out of number, that I have no longer any love to give
+her. It is a declaration which I have never withdrawn, except for the
+purpose of calming storms of passion which frightened me.'
+
+So is this:
+
+'A letter from Madame de Staël, who finds my letters melancholy, and
+asks what it is that I require to make me happy. Alas! what I require
+is my liberty, and that is precisely what I am not allowed to have.
+I am reminded of the story of the hussar who took an interest in the
+prisoner whom he had to put to death, and said to him: "Ask me any
+favour you like, except to spare your life."'
+
+And this:
+
+'A fearful scene this evening with Madame de Staël. I announce my
+intention of leaving her definitely. A second scene follows. Frenzy:
+reconciliation impossible; departure difficult. I must go away and
+get married.'
+
+And this:
+
+'Madame de Staël has won me back to her again.'
+
+Until, finally, their relations gradually going from bad to worse, we
+reach this striking piece of eloquence:
+
+'Yes, certainly I am more anxious than ever to break it off. She is
+the most egoistical, the most excitable, the most ungrateful, the
+most vain, and the most vindictive of women. Why didn't I break it
+off long ago? She is odious and intolerable to me. I must have done
+with her or die. She is more volcanic than all the volcanoes in the
+world put together. She is like an old _procureur_, with serpents
+in her hair, demanding the fulfilment of a contract in Alexandrine
+verse.'
+
+It was in marriage that Benjamin Constant gradually decided to seek
+a haven of refuge from these tempestuous passions. But, though he is
+continually touching on the subject in his diary, he generally refers
+to it without enthusiasm. Marriage is 'necessary' for him, but there
+are objections to every particular marriage that suggests itself.
+Sometimes the objections are expressed in general terms:
+
+'Went to a party, where I met several agreeable women. But I am very
+unfortunate. In the women whom I might be able and willing to marry
+there is always a something that does not suit me. Meanwhile my life
+advances.'
+
+Sometimes the objections are particularized:
+
+'Trip to Geneva; called on the Mesdemoiselles de Sellon; saw Amélie
+Fabry again. She is as dark as ever, as lively as ever, as wide awake
+as ever. How I should have hated her, if they had succeeded in making
+me marry her! Yet she is really a very amiable girl. But I am always
+unfortunate in finding some insuperable objection in every woman whom
+I think of marrying. Madame de Hardenberg was tiresome and romantic;
+Mrs. Lindsay was forty, and had two illegitimate children. Madame de
+Staël, who understands me better than anyone else does, will not be
+satisfied with my friendship when I can no longer give her my love.
+This poor Amélie, who would like me to marry her, is thirty-two,
+and portionless, and has ridiculous mannerisms, which become more
+accentuated as she grows older. Antoinette, who is twenty, well off,
+and not particularly ridiculous, is such a common little thing to
+look at.'
+
+But Benjamin Constant finally decided to marry Madame Dutertre.[7]
+He bought her from her husband, who, for a sum of money, was willing
+to divorce her; but it was not without a violent struggle that he
+tore himself away from Madame de Staël. Let us trace the story of the
+struggle in his diary. Madame Dutertre was an old friend:
+
+'Called on Madame Dutertre, who has improved wonderfully in
+appearance. I made advances which she did not repel. The citadel is
+to fall to-night. Two years' resistance is quite long enough.
+
+'Off to the country with Charlotte. She is an angel. I love her
+better every day. She is so sweet, so amiable. What a fool I was to
+refuse to have anything to do with her twelve years ago! What mad
+passion for independence drove me to put my neck under the foot of
+the most imperious woman in the world!
+
+'We are back in Paris. Joyous days; delights of love. What the devil
+is the meaning of it? It is twelve years since I last felt a similar
+emotion. This woman, whom I have refused a hundred times, who has
+always loved me, whom I have sent away, whom I left eighteen months
+ago--this woman now turns my head. Evidently the contrast with Madame
+de Staël is the cause of it all. The contrast of her impetuosity,
+her egoism, and her continual preoccupation with herself, with the
+gentleness, the calm, the humble and modest bearing of Charlotte,
+makes the latter a thousand times more dear to me. I am tired of the
+_man-woman_ whose iron hand has for ten years held me fast, when I
+have a really womanly woman to intoxicate and enchant me. If I can
+marry her, I shall not hesitate. Everything depends on the line M.
+Dutertre takes.'
+
+M. Dutertre, as has been stated, took the line of offering to consent
+to a divorce provided it were made worth his while to do so. Madame
+de Staël was more difficult to deal with. The first entry which gives
+us a glimpse of her feelings is as follows:
+
+'Madame de Staël is back; she will not hear of our relations being
+broken off. The best way will be not to see her again, but to wait at
+Lausanne for orders from Charlotte--my good angel whom I bless for
+saving me. Schlegel writes that Madame de Staël declares that, if I
+leave her, she will kill herself. I don't believe a word of it.'
+
+Followed by:
+
+'Unhappy fool that I am; weakness overcomes me; I start for Coppet.
+Tenderness, despair, and then the trump card, "I shall kill myself."'
+
+He fled to Lausanne, but--
+
+'What was the good of coming here? Madame de Staël has come after me,
+and all my plans are upset. In the evening there was a fearful scene,
+lasting till five o'clock in the morning. I am violent, and put
+myself in the wrong. But, my poor Charlotte, I will not forsake you.'
+
+Yet he had hardly written these lines when he was false to them.
+Madame de Staël came a second time to Lausanne to fetch him, and we
+read:
+
+'She came; she threw herself at my feet; she raised frightful cries
+of pain and desolation. A heart of iron would not have resisted. I
+am back at Coppet with her. I have promised to stay six weeks, and
+Charlotte is expecting me at the end of the month. My God! what am I
+to do? I am trampling my future happiness under my feet....
+
+'I receive a letter from Charlotte, who is more loving and more sure
+of me than ever. Would she forgive me if she knew where I am
+and what I am doing? How slowly the time passes! Into what an abysm
+have I not hurled myself! Last night we had a dreadful scene. Shall I
+ever get out of it all alive? I have to pass my time in falsehood and
+deceptions in order to avoid the furious outbreaks which so terrify
+me. If it were not for the hopes which I build upon Madame de Staël's
+approaching departure to Vienna, this life would be unbearable. To
+console myself I spend my time in picturing how things will go if
+they go well. This is my Castle in Spain. Charlotte finishes her
+arrangements, and makes her preparations secretly. Madame de Staël,
+suspecting nothing, sets out for Vienna. I marry Charlotte, and we
+pass the winter pleasantly at Lausanne.'
+
+ [Illustration: CHÂTEAU DE BLONAY]
+
+Though this was not exactly how things happened, the marriage was
+nevertheless speedily and safely celebrated. But alas! poor Benjamin!
+It was now his turn, in the midst of his domestic bliss, to feel the
+pangs of unrequited love. Having fled from Madame de Staël, he sighed
+for her. His diary is full of his regrets. It is:
+
+'Charlotte is good and sweet. I build myself foolish ideals, and
+throw the blame of my own folly upon others. At bottom Charlotte is
+what women always are. I have blamed individuals where I ought to
+have blamed the species. But for my work, and for the good advice
+that I need, I regret Madame de Staël more than ever.'
+
+Or it is:
+
+'A letter from Madame de Staël, from which I gather that, this time,
+all is really over between us. So be it. It is my own doing. I must
+steer my course alone, but I must take care not to fetter myself with
+other ties which would be infinitely less agreeable.'
+
+Or again:
+
+'I have lost Madame de Staël, and I shall never recover from the
+blow.'
+
+And the truth was, indeed, that Madame de Staël had ceased to care,
+and that another had succeeded to Benjamin Constant's place in her
+heart.
+
+His name was Albert de Rocca, and he was a young French officer who
+had been wounded in the Spanish wars. His personal beauty was such
+that a Spanish woman, finding him left for dead upon a battle-field,
+had taken him home with her, and nursed him back to health, saying
+that it was a pity that such a beautiful young man should die. His
+age was twenty-three, and Madame de Staël's was forty-five. But the
+affection that sprang up between them was deep and genuine. 'I will
+love her,' he said, 'so dearly that she will end by marrying me.'
+And when she protested that she was old enough to be his mother, he
+answered that the mention of that word only gave him a further reason
+for loving her. 'He is fascinated,' Baron de Voght wrote, 'by his
+relations with Madame de Staël, and the tears of his father cannot
+induce him to abandon it.'
+
+So she married him, though, for reasons of her own, she insisted that
+the marriage should be kept a secret. It seemed to her that a young
+husband would make her ridiculous, but that a young lover would not;
+very possibly she was right according to the moral standard of the
+age. At any rate her husband posed as her lover, and in that capacity
+quarrelled with Constant, with whom he nearly fought a duel, and
+travelled with her to Russia, to Sweden, and to England, and lived
+with her in Paris and at Coppet. But it was at this period, when her
+fame was at its zenith, that Madame de Staël wrote: 'Fame is for
+women only a splendid mourning for happiness.'
+
+But the end was drawing near. Madame de Staël had lived all her
+life at high pressure, and her health was undermined. A lingering
+illness, of which the fatal issue was foreseen, overtook her. She
+struggled against it, declaring that she would live for Rocca's
+sake. But all in vain. She died in Paris in 1817. Rocca himself, who
+only survived her a few months, was too ill to be with her. Benjamin
+Constant spent a night of mourning in her death-chamber. They buried
+her at Coppet amid general lamentations.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[5] By the present author in 'Madame de Staël and her Lovers.'
+
+[6] It has since been republished separately.
+
+[7] Madame de Hardenberg, divorced and remarried.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+THE REVOLUTION
+
+
+At Lausanne, as at Geneva, the thunders of the French Revolution
+echoed. Gibbon heard them, and was alarmed, as if at the approach of
+the end of the world. The patriots of Vaud heard them, and rejoiced
+at the hope of a new era about to be begun. Their Excellencies of
+Berne felt the edifice of their dominion crumbling about their ears.
+The burghers of Morges began the trouble by disinterring from their
+archives an old charter, on the strength of which they refused to pay
+for the mending of the roads, while a pastor named Martin exhorted
+his congregation to withhold the tithe that was levied on potatoes.
+Then a fête was held at Rolle to celebrate the anniversary of the
+fall of the Bastille, and 6,000 Bernese invaded the country, arrested
+the ringleaders, and compelled the magistrates to swear allegiance at
+the point of the bayonet. César Laharpe and J. J. Cart appealed to
+the French to intervene.
+
+At first the French hesitated. Robespierre was not ambitious of
+foreign conquests, having his hands full enough at home, but the
+Directorate took larger views. Switzerland was reputed to be
+rich--and _was für plunder_! A division of the army of Italy crossed
+the lake on January 28, 1798, and took possession of Lausanne. For
+a space there was civil war. Vaudois volunteers fought under their
+green flag, while a certain Loyal Legion, under Colonel de Rovéreaz,
+distinguished itself at Fraubrunnen, in defence of Berne. The French,
+however, were so much stronger than the Bernese that the issue could
+not long remain in doubt. It was the Swiss money that the French
+wanted, and the gold found in the vaults of the Treasury of Berne was
+carried off to Paris, while the Canton of Vaud was accorded a new and
+independent constitution.
+
+ [Illustration: THE RHONE VALLEY FROM MONT PELERIN]
+
+There were other revolutions, and revisions, and reconstructions to
+follow. When the Holy Alliance remodelled the map of Europe in 1815,
+the fate of Vaud, like that of so many other minor nationalities,
+hung in the balance. The Bernese fully expected to be allowed to
+re-establish their dominion; but Alexander I., prompted by Laharpe,
+prevented them. 'You have done a great deal for me,' the Emperor
+is reported to have said to the Liberator. 'What can I do for you?'
+And the Liberator's answer was: 'Sire, all that I ask is permission
+to speak to your Majesty of my country whenever I wish.' He spoke
+in 1815, and the Emperor listened; and the claims of Berne were
+rejected; and Laharpe took a house at Lausanne, and looked down on
+the scene of his triumphs, and fought his battles over again, and
+frequented Madame de Staël, whom in more stormy days he had written
+of as 'une infernale gueuse,' and was reverenced by all as the 'Grand
+Old Man' of the Canton.
+
+There were further political changes in 1830, in 1845, and in 1861;
+but of these we need not speak. Their interest is no more than local.
+What the English traveller chiefly sees in the Lausanne of the
+nineteenth century is an increasing English colony, and the loudly
+vaunted educational facilities.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+THE ENGLISH COLONY--THE EDUCATIONAL ADVANTAGES
+
+
+Of the English colony there is not perhaps a great deal to be said,
+except that it fills two churches on Sundays, and at all times
+monopolizes the Ouchy road. It has never consisted of distinguished
+persons like the English colony at Florence; on the other hand, it
+has never included so large a proportion of disreputable persons
+as the English colonies at Brussels and Boulogne. Gibbon cannot
+be said to have belonged to it, since, in his day, it did not yet
+exist; and it can hardly claim Dickens, since his sojourn there
+was of comparatively brief duration. In the main it is composed of
+very young and rather elderly members of the respectable middle
+classes. There is an English club, and there are opportunities of
+playing bridge. The life is inexpensive, not because commodities are
+specially cheap, but because there are no wealthy residents to set
+extravagant standards. A small income goes a long way there; and the
+climate is salubrious for all those whose bronchial tubes are in a
+condition to resist the _bise_.
+
+These are conditions which please a great many people--notably the
+wandering spinsters who 'live in their boxes,' and the retired
+officers and civil servants who have to subsist upon their pensions.
+At Lausanne they can economize without feeling the pinch of poverty,
+and without feeling envious--or perceiving that their wives
+feel envious--of more prosperous neighbours. The sunshine costs
+nothing, and the amusements cost very little; they can go about in
+knickerbockers and wear out their old clothes without fearing that
+their solvency will be suspected. There is no need for them to learn
+a foreign tongue, since they form their own society, and mix very
+little with the Swiss who accept them, but do not pretend to like
+them. They live lazily, but healthily, and, on the whole, contentedly.
+
+Of course, there is another side to the medal, and a price to be
+paid for the advantages. The colonists are exiles who have severed
+old ties, and have a difficulty in forming new ones. Their existence
+is rather animal than human, and rather vegetable than animal. They
+lose their energy and their intelligence; they are like plants no
+longer growing in a garden, but uprooted and flung upon the grass. A
+stranger finds it difficult to converse with them, and fancies that
+they must be terribly bored. Perhaps they are; but perhaps, too, it
+is better to be bored in the sunshine than busy in a London fog.
+So they linger on, persuading themselves that they do so for their
+children's sake rather than their own, and referring the stranger, if
+he happens to question them, to the wonderful educational advantages
+of the town.
+
+But what is the sober truth about those educational advantages? That
+is another branch of the subject which seems to be worth a passing
+word.
+
+Assuredly the Swiss have a great reputation as educators, and that
+reputation stands nowhere higher than in the Canton of Vaud. Yverdon
+is in the Canton of Vaud, and it was there that Pestalozzi kept his
+school. Moreover, just as it has been said that every citizen of
+Ticino is by nature a hotel-keeper, so it has been said that every
+citizen of Vaud is by nature a professor. Professors, as we have
+already seen, were among the Canton's chief 'articles of export'
+during the Bernese domination, and kings preferred the Vaudois
+professors to any others. Yet a sufficient number of professors--and
+perhaps the best of them--have always remained behind, so that
+teaching and learning have continued to be great native industries.
+The question which is left is, How do the Swiss systems of education
+compare with ours?
+
+The answer is commonplace, and sounds platitudinous: they are better
+than ours in some respects, and inferior in others. Let us elaborate
+and particularize.
+
+Scholarship, in the accepted English sense of the word, hardly exists
+in Switzerland. A Swiss Jebb is almost unthinkable, and if anyone
+proposes to find a Swiss Bentley in Casaubon, the answer must be that
+Casaubon was not really Swiss, though he was, for a time, a professor
+at Geneva. In the matter of the classics the German scholars have
+always been more learned than the Swiss, and the English scholars
+have always been both more learned and more graceful; indeed, in
+the sort of scholarship which enables a man to speak and write his
+own language properly the Swiss have always been sadly to seek.
+Swiss French is atrocious, and the French of Lausanne, though a
+shade better than that of Fribourg, is worse than that of Geneva or
+Neuchâtel. When the French themselves wish to say that a man's style
+is clumsy, they liken it to 'a Swiss translation from the Belgian.'
+
+ [Illustration: A STREET IN ST. SAPHORIN]
+
+Nor have the Swiss ever made any notable contribution to original
+philosophic thought. Their principal metaphysicians, like Charles
+Bonnet, have been merely theologians in disguise, who have started
+by assuming the points which they undertook to prove, and have
+been unable to keep their metaphysics and their theology apart,
+as did, for example, Bishop Berkeley and Dean Mansell. The great
+names in the history of speculative thought--such names as those of
+Spinoza, Locke, Hume, Kant, Hegel, Comte, Herbert Spencer, and T.
+H. Green--have been English, or German, or French, or Dutch. One
+does not find a single Swiss name among them. The great Swiss names,
+when we get away from theology, all stand for something scientific,
+practical, concrete. Lavater, Gesner, Saussure, Jomini--such are a
+few of the instances that may be cited to point our moral and lead us
+up to our generalization, which is as follows:
+
+Elementary education is excellent in Switzerland; but the higher
+education is too technical and utilitarian to satisfy those who
+consider that the function of education is to cultivate the mind. The
+elementary schools of the Canton of Vaud are probably better than
+those of the County of London; but the Universities of Geneva and
+Lausanne are a poor substitute for those of Oxford and Cambridge.
+
+Let us by all means give praise where praise is due. The Medical
+Faculties of Berne and Lausanne have a European reputation; and it
+is said that engineering is nowhere taught better than at the Zurich
+Polytechnic. The practical side of the Swiss character is also well
+exemplified in the various schools for waiters, for watch-makers, and
+for bee-keepers. But it is possible--or it seems so to an English
+University man--for education to be too practical; and the Swiss
+have surely committed that excess in devising that educational
+abomination, the School of Commerce. Nothing is ever taught in
+a School of Commerce that a man who has been properly educated
+elsewhere cannot pick up in six weeks; and the curriculum, though it
+may sharpen the wits, can only, at the best, produce a superior kind
+of bagman.
+
+Swiss education, therefore, has its drawbacks even for a Switzer;
+and, for a young Englishman of the better class, it has other
+drawbacks in addition. It is not merely that he learns less than he
+would in England because an unfamiliar language is the medium of
+instruction. He also acquires the wrong tone and the wrong manner,
+misses opportunities of making useful friends, and finds himself,
+when he grows up, a stranger in his own country--a stranger not
+only to the people, but to the ways and modes of thought. That is
+a disadvantage which was pointed out as long ago as the eighteenth
+century, by Dr. John Moore, when a nobleman who had thought of
+sending his son to the University of Geneva asked his advice on
+the subject. 'The boy would return,' said the doctor, 'a kind of a
+Frenchman, and would so be disqualified for success in English life.'
+
+The same criticism still applies. We are better cosmopolitans
+nowadays than were Dr. Moore's contemporaries, but the differences
+between the nations still subsist; and, just as each nation has
+the system of education which it deserves, so it has the system of
+education which best prepares a man to fight the battle of life in
+his own country. In England, more than in any other country, success
+depends comparatively little upon book-learning, and very much upon
+character and the possession of certain qualities which, in our
+insular pride, we vaunt as specially 'British.' These qualities are
+not to be acquired in the Swiss schools. The qualities that are to be
+acquired there may, in some respects, be better and more solid; but
+they are not so useful in Great Britain. An English boy educated in
+a Swiss school is, as a rule, when he leaves, rather a clumsy lout,
+with a smattering of bad French, emancipated from certain prejudices
+which might be useful to him, but steeped in other prejudices which
+are likely to stand in his way. One always has the feeling that more
+might have been made of him at home: not merely at Eton or Harrow,
+but at Clifton or Marlborough, or even at St. Paul's or the Bedford
+Grammar School.
+
+On the whole, therefore, the educational _raison d'être_ of the
+English colony at Lausanne disappears under investigation--at any
+rate, so far as the boys are concerned. The girls, from a certain
+point of view, may be better off there; for the Swiss girls' schools
+are good, and the snobbishness which is the vice of English girls'
+schools is discouraged in them. For the girls, difficulties only
+arise when they reach a marriageable age. There are no husbands
+for them at Lausanne, or anywhere in Switzerland, unless it be at
+Montreux, where Anglo-Indians sometimes come on leave, since all the
+men whom they meet--one is speaking only of their own countrymen--are
+either too young or too old--mere students, or else superannuated
+veterans. They know it, and lament their lot aloud; and the Swiss
+know it, too, and make remarks. The English colony at Lausanne, they
+say, is _une vraie pépinière de vieilles filles_.
+
+But this is an excursus. We must return to Lausanne, and take another
+look at its social and intellectual life.
+
+ [Illustration: THE DENTS DU MIDI AND LA TOUR FROM "ENTRE DEUX
+ VILLES"]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+VINET AND SAINTE-BEUVE--JUSTE OLIVIER
+
+
+The centre of the intellectual life was always the University. It
+could not be otherwise in a country in which every man is born a
+pedagogue. In England the view has come to prevail that literature
+only begins to be vital when it ceases to be academic. In the Canton
+of Vaud the literature is academic or nothing, and even the poets
+are professors, unbending in their hours of sentimental ease; while
+the literature of revolt is the bitter cry of professors who have
+forfeited their chairs on account of their religious or political
+opinions. As the result of each revolution in turn we see a company
+of professors put to flight. The casualties of that sort are at least
+as numerous as the broken heads.
+
+The detailed relation of such professorial vicissitudes belongs,
+however, to the native antiquary. Here it will suffice to recall a
+few more notable names.
+
+A Swiss historian would doubtless say that the greatest of the names
+is that of Alexandre Vinet. In his hot youth he wrote riotous poetry:
+
+ 'O mes amis, vidons bouteille
+ Et laissons faire le destin.
+ Le Dieu qui préside à la treille
+ Est notre unique souverain.'
+
+Afterwards he became austere, and played a great part in theological
+controversy. He hated the Revivalists, whom he described as 'lunatics
+at large'; but he insisted that religious liberty should be the
+heritage of all, and, while opposing established churches, exercised
+a profound spiritual influence. He was a great Broad Churchman, and
+we may class him as the F. W. Robertson or F. D. Maurice of the
+Canton of Vaud. Sainte-Beuve blew his trumpet, and he, on his part,
+almost persuaded Sainte-Beuve to become a Protestant.
+
+Sainte-Beuve, it is hardly too much to say, came to Lausanne in
+search of a religion. St. Simonism had disappointed him, and so had
+the Liberal Catholicism of Lamennais. Lamennais, in fact, had gone
+too fast and too far for him--had, as it were, he said, taken him
+for a drive, and spilt him in a ditch, and left him there and driven
+on. None the less, he earnestly desired to be spiritually-minded
+and a devout believer, feeling, in particular, an inclination
+towards mysticism, though unable to profess himself a mystic. 'I
+have,' he wrote to a friend, 'the sense of these things, but not the
+things themselves.' It seemed to him that he might find 'the things
+themselves' at Lausanne, if he went there in the proper spirit and
+sat at Vinet's feet.
+
+His Swiss friend, Juste Olivier, a professor who was also a poet,
+procured him an engagement to deliver a course of lectures at
+the Lausanne Academy,[8] and he embarked upon his errand with as
+much humility as was compatible with professorship. Left free to
+choose his own subject, he decided to treat of Port Royal and the
+Jansenists--the most spiritually-minded of the Catholics, and those
+who had the closest affinity with the Protestants. By means of his
+lectures he thought to build himself a bridge by which to pass from
+the one camp to the other.
+
+His elocution was defective, and his lectures were not quite such a
+success as he could have wished. The students used to meet in the
+cafés to parody them in the evenings. On the other hand, however,
+serious people eagerly watched the developments of the spiritual
+drama. Not only did it seem to them that the fate of a soul was in
+the balance--they were also hoping to see Protestantism score the
+sort of triumph that would make a noise in Paris. So they asked daily
+for news of Sainte-Beuve, as of a sick man lying at death's door,
+and asked Vinet, whom they regarded as his spiritual physician, to
+issue a bulletin. And Vinet's bulletin was to this effect: 'I think
+he is convinced, but not yet converted.' But Vinet, as he was soon to
+discover, was only partly right.
+
+That Sainte-Beuve was not converted was, indeed, obvious enough,
+seeing that he was making violent love to his neighbour's wife
+at the time--between him and 'conversion' stood the obstructive
+charms of Madame Olivier. But it is equally true that he was not
+convinced; and, by a crowning irony, he found his faith evaporating
+as he got to close quarters with the subject, through the study of
+which he had expected to achieve conviction. The great history of
+Port Royal, begun by a believer, was finished by a sceptic. 'Moral
+bankruptcy,' is M. Michaut's description of his condition, and there
+is a sense in which it might be applied even by those who desire to
+dissociate morality from creeds. It was the end--at any rate, for
+Sainte-Beuve--of all emotion which was not either purely sensual or
+purely intellectual. He could not be a mystic, as he could not be a
+poet, because he lacked the necessary genius; and forms of religion
+which depended, not on intuition, but on authority, were repugnant to
+his sane intelligence. So he said a sad farewell to Christianity, and
+sought no substitute. 'I am mournfully looking on at the death of my
+heart,' he wrote to Vinet; and he went away and resigned himself to
+become a materialist, a voluptuary, and a critic.
+
+And now a word about that Juste Olivier to whom Sainte-Beuve owed
+his appointment, and to whose wife Sainte-Beuve made love. The poet
+and the critic had met at Paris, where Olivier had gone to prepare
+himself for the Chair of Literature at Neuchâtel. He was promoted,
+three years later, to the Chair of History at Lausanne, which he
+occupied for twelve years, acting also, during part of the time, as
+editor of the _Revue Suisse_, to which Sainte-Beuve contributed.
+The Revolution of 1845 unseated him. He went to Paris, where he
+achieved no great success, and was homesick there for five-and-twenty
+years. The Swiss forgot him, and the Parisians did not understand
+him. But, in 1870, when there was no longer a living to be made in
+Paris, he came home again. One may quote the pathetic picture of his
+home-coming, drawn by M. Philippe Godet:
+
+'He had to live. For three winters the poet travelled through
+French Switzerland, lecturing, reading his verses, relating his
+reminiscences, with that melancholy humour which gave his speech its
+charm. The public--I speak of what I saw--was polite, respectful,
+and nothing more. Olivier felt almost a stranger in his own country.
+But he consoled himself, in the summer, at Gryon, "the high village
+facing the Alps of Vaud," which he has so often celebrated. He was to
+sing, at the mid-August fête, his song to the Shepherds of Anzeindaz.
+And there they understood him and applauded. He had his day of
+happiness and glory among these simple mountaineers. He was, for an
+hour, what it had been the dream of his life to be, the national
+singer of the Vaudois country.'
+
+But the end is melancholy. He died in a chalet at Gryon in January,
+1876, a broken and disappointed man, reluctant even to speak of his
+work or hear it spoken of. There is a deep pathos in one of his last
+letters which M. Godet quotes:
+
+'It is a melancholy history--that of our country. It did nothing for
+Viret or Vinet; and, though I do not rank myself with them, I
+too know what neglect means. "Come and have a drink"--that is their
+last word here. I had hoped for better things. What a beautiful dream
+it was! At least I have been loyal to it, even if I have not, as I
+fancy, done all that it was in me to do. Since the day when, in one
+of my first printed poems, I wrote, "Un génie est caché dans tous les
+lieux que j'aime," I have obstinately sought out that genius, and
+tried to make it speak. It has answered me, I think more often than
+its voice has been heard.'
+
+ [Illustration: LUTRY]
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[8] It was not made a University until later.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+NYON
+
+
+Lausanne, for the purposes of this volume, must be taken to include
+such neighbouring lake-side towns as Morges, and Rolle, and Nyon.
+Morges we have already seen distinguishing itself by refusing, on
+principle, to pay for the mending of the roads, and so paving the
+way for the subsequent insurrection. Nowadays it is the seat of an
+arsenal, and is said to have an aristocratic population, interested
+in literature. Rolle was the home of the Laharpes, and boasts a
+statue of César de Laharpe by Pradier. A colony of French and Genevan
+political exiles once flourished there, and Madame de Staël was a
+frequent visitor. Voltaire once proposed to buy an estate in the
+neighbourhood--the Château des Menthon--but the Bernese would not
+let him do so, alleging the curious reason that the philosopher was
+a Roman Catholic. Nyon is the dirtiest town on the Lake--or would
+be if Villeneuve were not dirtier. But it is also one of the most
+picturesque--the castle being nobly situated and in a fine state of
+preservation--and it has its interesting memories.
+
+One of its interesting associations is with the Waldenses. These
+persecuted Protestants had fled, or been driven out, from their
+mountain home above Turin. Switzerland received them hospitably, but
+they were homesick. They resolved to go back; not to slink back in
+twos and threes, but to march back, with their flags flying, like
+courageous Christian soldiers. They mustered at Nyon, and thence
+crossed the lake under the leadership of the fighting pastor,
+Henri Arnaud, and marched across the mountains to effect their
+'glorious re-entry.' It was a great military feat, and no less a
+judge than Napoleon has paid his tribute to the military genius of
+the commander. The returning exiles defeated the soldiers of Savoy
+in more than one pitched battle. One thinks of them generally as
+the 'slaughtered saints, whose bones' inspired one of the finest of
+Milton's sonnets, but theirs were not the only bones that whitened
+the valleys during that notable expedition.
+
+Nyon again recalls the memory of Bonstetten, who governed it for a
+season on behalf of Berne. If all the Bernese Governors had been
+like him, Vaud would have been a contented country, though he is
+chiefly remembered as a wit and a man of culture, who lived to be
+eighty-seven without ever seeming to grow old. In his youth he
+travelled in England, and was the friend of Gray; in his old age
+he lived at Geneva, and was the friend of Byron. In the meantime
+he had been the friend of Madame de Staël, and a pillar of the
+cosmopolitan society at Coppet. He wrote some books, but they are
+dead and buried. What lives is the recollection of the genial old
+gentleman whom everybody liked, and who proved--what needed a great
+deal of proving--that it was possible for a Bernese to be gracious
+and frivolous, and to have a sense of humour. He detested the society
+of his native city, and wrote a delightfully sarcastic description of
+its daily life in a letter to one of the Hallers:
+
+'We are living here, as we always do. We sleep, we breakfast, we
+yawn, we drag through the morning, and we digest our food. And then
+we dine, and then we dress, and then we swagger in the Arcades, and
+say to ourselves: "I am charming and clever, for the spelling of
+my name makes me capable of governing and illuminating two hundred
+thousand souls." And then we accost a lady with a pretty figure
+decently enveloped in a mantle, and then we go to a party and circle
+round a dozen turtle-doves, and deliver ourselves of platitudes with
+the air of saying something clever. Then we have something to eat,
+and, finding our intellectual resources exhausted, amuse ourselves
+with paper games; and then we go to bed, feeling satisfied with
+ourselves--for we have been delightful.'
+
+Out of sympathy with Berne, Bonstetten had a good deal more sympathy
+than Berne liked with the revolutionary party. It is said that
+his sympathies lost him his post; but before that happened he had
+time to render a useful service to one of the most eminent of the
+revolutionists. He was at supper one day with a considerable number
+of guests when his servant whispered in his ear that a mysterious
+stranger was without, asking to speak with him. He stepped into the
+garden, where a man, miserably dressed, was waiting for him in the
+summer-house. He inquired his errand, and the answer was: 'I am
+Carnot, and I am perishing from hunger. I implore you to give me
+shelter for the night.' Bonstetten not only gave him shelter for
+the night, but, on the following morning, gave him a passport under
+an assumed name. One can understand that his superiors at Berne did
+not regard him as a model functionary, but Carnot never forgot his
+kindness. When he became Napoleon's War Minister, he invited him
+to Paris, introduced him to the Emperor, and heaped proofs of his
+gratitude upon him.
+
+ [Illustration: CULLY FROM EPESSE: AUTUMN]
+
+Perhaps it is also worth noting that, in the days before the
+railways, Nyon was on the highroad from France to Switzerland. The
+track descended there from Saint-Cergues, where it crossed the Jura;
+and by it travelled Madame de Staël, and Benjamin Constant, and
+Voltaire, and many another whom we have met in the course of this
+rambling narrative. There is a new road now, with wide, sweeping
+curves, and a gentle gradient; but enough of the old road remains to
+show us how shamefully bad it was--a narrow road, of uneven surface,
+plunging headlong through the pine-forest. The lumbering old coaches,
+with their six horses, must have had a very bad time there, and it is
+no wonder that Napoleon ordered a road to be made over the Col de la
+Faucille to supersede it.
+
+But enough of Nyon and the Canton de Vaud! We must cross the lake
+to the French shore; and, as first impressions are always the most
+graphic, permission has been obtained to print here the writer's own
+first impressions, contributed a few years since, to the columns of
+the _Pall Mall Gazette_.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+THE FRENCH SHORE
+
+
+What strikes the holiday traveller about the French shore is that
+it is so much better managed than the Swiss shore. Its natural
+advantages are fewer--they are, in fact, very few indeed. Evian--and
+when one speaks of the French shore one is principally thinking of
+Evian--stands with its back to the high mountains instead of facing
+them. Consequently it has no views to compare with the views from
+Lausanne, Geneva, and Vevey. Its hinterland is commonplace, except
+for those who make a great effort and go up the Dent d'Oche. The
+mouth of the Dranse, hard by, is a dreary collection of detritus.
+There are hardly any literary landmarks, except the few that recall
+the memory of St. Francis de Sales. Whence English travellers
+have, almost with one accord, drawn the inference that it is not
+worth while to go to Evian. But they are wrong. The French think
+otherwise, and the French are right. They do not go there, as some
+suppose, because they are crippled with diseases and need the waters
+to wash poisons out of their blood and their organs: the Evian water
+is the sort of water that the whole, as well as the sick, can drink
+by the bucketful without feeling a penny the worse for it. Their
+purpose in going to Evian is to live a life of luxury and leisure.
+No doubt they pay through the nose for the privilege. Inquiry at one
+hotel elicited the statement that the worst rooms were let at eight
+and the best at eighty francs a day--with service _à la carte_ on the
+same scale. But other hotels are cheaper, and it is also possible to
+hire a villa, a flat, a lodging; and, in any case, it is right that
+Evian should be introduced to the English tourist as the one place
+on the Lake of Geneva in which the life of leisure and luxury is
+possible.
+
+There is no real luxury at Geneva itself, though there are high
+prices and immense hotels. Instead of having good music at fixed
+hours, they have indifferent music all day long. The whole air is
+full of a continual tinkle-tinkle; louder than the tinkle-tinkle
+rises the hooting of the steamers and the trams; louder still are the
+voices of the trippers, mostly Americans, inquiring the prices of
+things, or complaining that they have lost their luggage. The society
+at the boasted Kursaal is an unpolished horde, mainly composed of
+the Geneva clerks and shop-assistants losing their salaries at
+_petits chevaux_. Nor are things much better elsewhere on the Swiss
+shore. Nyon, for instance, is by nature an earthly paradise, and
+they have formed a society for developing it. What they really want
+is a society for cleaning it, since it is the present practice of
+the inhabitants to empty their dustbins over their garden walls into
+the lake, with results appalling to the nostrils of the stranger. At
+Lausanne, or Vevey, or Montreux--other earthly paradises--you escape
+this nuisance; but even there, in the season, you have the feeling
+that the place is one vast hotel, and that everybody is waiting with
+packed boxes for the omnibus. But cross to Evian. The town is a
+little smaller than Montreux, but just as full. Yet it never seems
+to be crowded. There is no hurrying or bustling. You are in nobody's
+way, and nobody is in your way; which means that Evian is properly
+managed.
+
+They do not encourage you to come to Evian in the capacity of
+tripper. On the contrary, they try to arrange things so that you must
+sacrifice your lunch in order to get there, and your dinner in order
+to get home. But this is a part of the secret of good management,
+as you will appreciate if you stay there. No knickerbockered army,
+headed by a polyglot guide in a straw hat with a label on it, will
+invade your peace, but you will be free to live your lotus-eating
+life in your own way. You will probably live most of it in the
+casino, which is a proper casino, differing from the Geneva Kursaal
+as cheese from chalk. There is so much shade that it is always cool
+there, even on the hottest day. You will lunch there on a shaded
+terrace, assisted by a sympathetic waiter, who understands that a
+good lunch is an end in itself, and not merely a device for keeping
+body and soul together until the evening. You will linger long and
+agreeably over the coffee and liqueurs, without feeling that someone
+else wants your seat. Nor will you be bothered, as in Geneva, by
+the squeaking of a futile fiddle, or by hawkers offering picture
+postcards. But, at the appointed hour, there will be a proper concert
+with a programme, and a well-behaved and well-dressed audience:
+beautiful French ladies looking as if they had stepped out of fashion
+plates; beautiful French children looking as if they had been cut out
+of Aunt Louisa's picture-book; fantastic Frenchmen, looking as
+if they were dressed for amateur theatricals. Then, when the evening
+comes, and you have dined as well as you have lunched, there will be
+a performance in the little theatre, given by artistes from Paris,
+who come on to Evian from Aix-les-Bains: Réjane, Jeanne Granier,
+Charlotte Wiehe, or others. Or there will be a ball in the grand
+style--not in the least like the balls in the Hall-by-the-Sea at
+Margate--given in as good a ballroom as the heart of a dancer could
+wish for. But no hurrying, or hustling, or excitement. At Evian, if
+nowhere else on Lake Leman, life is a leisurely pageant.
+
+ [Illustration: GRANDVAUX FROM CULLY]
+
+For the rest, there is little enough for you to do--nothing, in fact,
+except to stroll up and down the long avenue of linked plane-trees by
+the lake-side, observe how clean they keep the water, and gaze across
+its calm surface to the Swiss shore where the trippers make a noise.
+But this has always been a favourite occupation of the dwellers on
+the French shore, whether in fact or works of fiction. From Meillerie
+St. Preux gazed across at the _bosquet_ of Clarens. From Thonon
+St. Francis de Sales gazed across, pondering plans for working the
+Counter-Reformation in the Canton de Vaud. From Evian itself, Madame
+de Warens gazed across, regretting the home of her youth to which
+she could never return, because, when she left it, she had abandoned
+her religion, and taken with her certain goods and chattels which her
+creditors were about to seize.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+HISTORY OF THE FRENCH SHORE--FELIX V
+
+
+The history of the French shore, which has only recently belonged
+to France, may be told in briefest outline. In the earliest times
+of which we need take cognizance it belonged to the Dukes of Savoy,
+whose domains continued for a considerable distance up the valley of
+the Rhone. Then came the war of 1536, of which we have spoken more
+than once, in which the Bernese took the territory away from them.
+Part of it was recovered by Duke Emanuel Philibert in 1564, and the
+whole was reassigned by treaty in 1593. The inhabitants had, in the
+meantime, been converted to Protestantism, and the first task of
+Savoy was to reconvert them. A mission for that purpose was led by
+St. Francis de Sales, and the principles of the Counter-Reformation
+quickly triumphed. The French Revolution brought a French army to
+Savoy, but the expelled rulers came to their own again when the Holy
+Alliance resettled the map of Europe. Nothing further happened until
+the war which resulted in the consolidation of a United Italy. Savoy
+(together with Nice) was then Napoleon III.'s reward for ejecting the
+Austrian garrison from Italian territory. The country had long been
+French in its language and its sympathies, and the people were quite
+willing, if not actively anxious, to change their allegiance; and
+the history of Savoy has, since that date, belonged to the history
+of France. Its extreme Catholicism, like that of Brittany, gave
+trouble at the time of the expulsion of the Religious Orders, but
+that is a question of modern politics into which it is unnecessary to
+enter here. We will search instead for the historical and literary
+landmarks.
+
+Our first interesting name is that of Duke Amadeus VIII. The death
+of his eldest son caused him profound grief, and 'in 1431,' says
+Bishop Creighton, 'he retired from active life, and built himself
+a luxurious retreat at Ripaille, whither he withdrew with seven
+companions to lead a life of religious seclusion. His abode was
+called the Temple of St. Maurice; he and his followers wore grey
+cloaks, like hermits, with gold crosses round their necks and long
+staffs in their hands.' But though Duke Amadeus dressed as a
+hermit, he hardly lived as one; and as for religious seclusion, he
+interpreted it after a fashion of his own. 'Vitam magis voluptuosam
+quam penitentialem degebat,' is the statement of his biographer,
+Æneas Sylvius; and his jovial proceedings added to the French
+language the new expression 'faire Ripaille.'
+
+Those were the days, however, when the Council of Basle accused Pope
+Eugenius IV. of heresy and schism. An Opposition Pope was wanted, and
+the Council decided to offer the dignity to the ducal hermit, who
+was living a voluptuous rather than a penitential life. A deputation
+was sent to wait upon him at Ripaille. Amadeus, with his hermit
+companions, advanced to meet the visitors, with a cross borne before
+him, and discussed the proposal in a thoroughly business-like spirit.
+'What,' he asked, 'do you expect the Pope to live on? I cannot
+consume my patrimony and disinherit my sons.' He was promised a grant
+of first-fruits of vacant benefices, and that satisfied him, though
+he made the further stipulation that he should not be required to
+shave. As a matter of fact, however, he was presently shamed into
+shaving by the respectful amazement of the devout; and he took the
+name of Felix V. and entered Basle attended by his two sons--'an
+unusual escort for a Pope,' as Creighton justly remarks--and was
+crowned by the Cardinal of Aries, the only Cardinal present, on July
+24, 1440.
+
+The question then arose, Which Pope would be recognized by the other
+European Principalities and Powers? By degrees it was found that the
+balance of opinion was against Felix V., and in favour of Eugenius
+IV. and his successor Nicolas V.; and Felix V. then discovered that
+he did not greatly care about his somewhat shadowy honours. He had
+had much anxiety, and only a small and irregular stipend. So, on
+April 7, 1449, he was persuaded to resign the Papal office, and less
+than two years afterwards he died. 'He was more useful to the Church
+by his death than by his life,' says Æneas Sylvius. But that is as it
+may be. He was, at all events, an interesting figure and a better man
+than Æneas himself, seeing that Æneas, afterwards Pius II., candidly
+confessed that he was 'neither holier than David nor wiser than
+Solomon,' and actually wrote love-letters to help Sigismund, Count
+of Tyrol, 'to overcome the resistance of a girl who shrank from his
+dishonourable proposals.'
+
+ [Illustration: THE RHONE VALLEY FROM CHEXBRES]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+ST. FRANCIS DE SALES
+
+
+A greater figure--perhaps the greatest of all figures in the history
+of Savoy--is that of St. Francis de Sales. It is a little difficult
+to speak of him without appearing to stir the embers of theological
+disputation. But the effort must be made, since he is much too
+notable a man to be passed over; and the task may be made easier
+by the fact that he is a Catholic of whom Protestants speak well,
+even though they have to recognize in him one of the most damaging
+of their opponents. They respect his character even in the act of
+examining his propositions; they perceive that it was just because
+his character was so admirable that he was able to do the cause of
+the Reformation so much harm.
+
+He combined qualities which, in that age, were rarely found
+conjoined, being at once a gentleman and a scholar, a man of saintly
+humility, and yet of energy and courage. Such men were scarce in
+both religious camps. The Reformers had their share of virile
+vigour, and the best of them were among the most learned men of
+their time; but, on the whole, they lacked good manners and 'sweet
+reasonableness.' Their methods were often violent, and their speech
+was often coarse. They upset altars and smashed stained-glass
+windows, and threw sacred images into the rivers, and, as we
+have seen, 'crowned Roman Catholic priests with cow-dung.' Their
+vocabulary, too, was scurrilous, as was natural, seeing that many of
+them had risen to eminence in their church from some very humble rank
+in life. They lacked the grand style in theology, and one could find
+excuses for calling them vulgarians.
+
+No doubt there was more of the grand style among their Catholic
+opponents, but they also fell short in many ways of the Christian
+ideal. Many of them were dissolute debauchees. The case of Æneas
+Sylvius, already cited, shows that the most cynical immorality was
+not incompatible with the highest ecclesiastical advancement, and,
+indeed, it is notorious that the loose lives of ecclesiastical
+dignitaries did more than their unscriptural doctrines to discredit
+the Church of Rome and make the Reformation possible. There were
+prelates of whom it could truly be said that they spared neither men
+in their anger nor women in their lust; and even among those whose
+reputation was sweeter, there were a good many who would have passed
+a very bad quarter of an hour if haled before Calvin's Consistory
+and cross-examined. Even if they had passed the moral standards,
+they would have been found guilty of luxury and arrogance. They were
+unduly addicted to purple and fine linen, and made no pretence to
+live a simple life.
+
+On each side, however, there were exceptions, exempt from the
+characteristic faults of their parties, and these, even in that age
+of vehement polemics, were able to recognize and appreciate one
+another. On the Protestant side there was M. de Bèze--the 'gentleman
+reformer,' as he has been called--who, drawing a useful inspiration
+from the memories of his unregenerate days, was able to speak affably
+with his enemies in the gate. On the Catholic side there was St.
+Francis de Sales, whom the study of the Humane Letters had indeed
+humanized, who was transparently sincere, and who, by the charm of
+his character, disarmed antagonism. In an age in which men of all
+religious opinions (and of none) lived in daily peril of torture
+and the stake, each of these two men believed that the other was
+honestly mistaken, and would have liked to be his friend.
+
+Judged by the historical results of his principal achievement, St.
+Francis can hardly escape condemnation as a maker of mischief and a
+stirrer-up of strife. To him, and to him alone, was due the triumph
+of the Counter-Reformation in Chablais. If he had declined that
+missionary enterprise, or failed in it, the Duke of Savoy would not
+have been encouraged to make the treacherous attempt upon Genevan
+independence known as the Escalade. That plot was actually laid at
+Thonon, at a meeting held to celebrate and rejoice over St. Francis
+de Sales' apostolic achievements. He must have known of it; he was
+in a position to protest against it; he does not appear to have
+done anything of the kind. It went forward, and Spanish soldiers
+were hired to cut Genevan throats in the name of the Church of St.
+Peter. There we have cause and effect--a saintly man interfering with
+freedom of thought, and so bringing, not peace, but a sword.
+
+That is the summing-up of the matter which impartial logic
+compels; but, somehow or other, it does not much interfere with
+the friendliness of one's feelings towards St. Francis de Sales.
+The rude logic of events did not correspond to any syllogism in
+his mind. The narrowness of his outlook was that of his country
+and his age; the sweetness of his temper was his own. He loved his
+erring brothers, as he considered them, and his concern was for
+the salvation of their souls. He did disinterestedly, and at great
+personal sacrifice, the duty which he conceived to lie nearest to
+him; he did it like a soldier, who must not reason why, and with a
+serene and lofty courage.
+
+The courage of missionaries has often, it is true, been the subject
+of exaggerated eulogy. Courage is no uncommon human quality; and it
+is doubtful whether good men are, on an average, any braver than
+bad men. It is not only the soldier who, as a matter of course,
+takes risks quite equal to those of the missionary. The brigand, the
+highwayman, and the beach-comber, to say nothing of the terrorist,
+who is generally an atheist, also do so; and, these things being so,
+much of the talk about the heroism of Christian heroes is almost
+indecently vainglorious. Yet, even when all the necessary deductions
+have been made, there remains something singularly fascinating in the
+courage of St. Francis de Sales.
+
+He was not by nature pugnacious, as was, for example, Farel, who
+took an Irishman's delight in a row, and considered that it was all
+in the day's work when he was fustigated by women, or dragged up and
+down the floor of a church by the beard. His tastes, on the contrary,
+were refined, and his inclinations were for the life of the cloister
+or the study. He went into the wilds of Chablais--and it was really
+a wild country in those days--because he had been called and chosen,
+and because there was work to be done there which he was considered
+specially capable of doing. Men with guns took pot-shots at him in
+the dark places of the forests; and he once spent a whole winter's
+night in a tree-top, while a pack of hungry wolves howled at him from
+below. Such adventures were repugnant to his gentle and sensitive
+nature; but he faced them and persevered, year after year, until at
+last his pertinacity was rewarded. More as a tribute to his unique
+personality than to his arguments--which, of course, were only the
+commonplaces of Catholic apologetics--Chablais surrendered to the
+Church. Even though one wishes that Chablais had held out, one cannot
+help regarding its evangelist as a sympathetic figure. Pope Alexander
+VII. canonized him in 1665.
+
+ [Illustration: THE CHURCH OF ST. MARTIN, VEVEY]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+JOSEPH DE MAISTRE
+
+
+St. Francis de Sales, was not only a missionary, but also a man of
+letters, and--especially--a patron of letters. Thirty years before
+Richelieu founded the French Academy, he founded the Florimontane
+Academy--with the motto _Flores fructusque perennes_--in Savoy, and
+thus forged one of the links between the literature of Savoy and
+that of France. More than one great writer, whom we carelessly class
+as French, was really of Savoyard origin. Vaugelas, described by
+Sainte-Beuve 'as the first of our correct and polished grammarians,'
+was the son of the Vaugelas who helped St. Francis de Sales in the
+formation of his literary society at Annecy. St. Réal, the forerunner
+of Montesquieu, was also a Savoyard; and so were Count Xavier de
+Maistre, author of the widely-read 'Voyage Autour de ma Chambre,' and
+Count Joseph de Maistre, his more distinguished brother.
+
+Joseph de Maistre, indeed, is the greatest of the literary sons of
+Savoy, and a worthy inheritor of the traditions of the saint, his
+predecessor. An aristocrat, and a senator, he was a man of forty when
+the revolutionary storm burst upon his country. For a season he took
+refuge in Lausanne, where he often met, and argued with, Madame de
+Staël, whom he regarded as a woman with a good heart but a perverted
+head. His discussions with her, he said, 'nearly made the Swiss
+die with laughing, though we conducted them without quarrelling.'
+Afterwards he was sent to represent his sovereign at the Court of St.
+Petersburg, where, he complains, he had to get on as best he could,
+'without a salary, without a secretary, and without a fur-lined
+overcoat.' Both there and at Lausanne he wrote.
+
+His date and his circumstances class him with the literary
+_émigrés_--with Madame de Staël, Châteaubriand, and Sénancour;
+but he lacks their melancholy and their sentimentalism. He and
+Châteaubriand, indeed, resemble one another as two champions of
+the Catholic religion; but they support that religion from widely
+different points of view. Châteaubriand is before all things the
+religious æsthete. He deduces the truth of a creed from its beauty,
+and is very little concerned with its bearing upon moral conduct.
+Joseph de Maistre, on the contrary, seems to believe in the authority
+of the Church because he believes in authority generally. He is an
+Absolutist who hates all Radicals, and regards the schismatic as
+the worst kind of Radical. He makes a religion of the principle of
+'keeping people in their place,' and he supports his religion with
+epigrams. The epigrams are very good, though the religion is very
+bad. The French, like the sound critics that they are, have proved
+themselves capable of enjoying the one while refusing to have very
+much to do with the other.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+ Alexander I., 62
+ Amadeus VIII., Duke, 96
+ Arnaud, Henri, 84
+
+ Bèze, M. de, 101
+ Bonivard, 5
+ Bonnet, Charles, 69
+ Bonstetten, 84, 86
+ Bridel, Doyen, 40
+ Bridel, Louis, 40
+ 'Buonaparte,' 44
+ Byron, 85
+
+ Calvin, 6
+ Carnot, 86
+ Cart, C. C., 61
+ Casaubon, 68
+ Charrière, Madame de, 41, 46, 47, 50
+ Châteaubriand, 106
+ Constant de Rebecque, Benjamin, 45, 47, 48, 49, 54, 58, 59, 60, 86
+ Constant, Rosalie de, 45
+ Coppet, 49, 56, 59, 60, 85
+ Curchod, Mademoiselle Suzanne, 16, 17, 18, 20, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27
+
+ D'Alembert, 13
+ Davel, Major, 9
+ Deffand, Madame du, 35
+ Dent d'Oche, 89
+ Deyverdun, 26, 29
+ Dickens, 65
+ Dutertre, Madame, 54, 55, 56, 57
+
+ English Colony, 65, 73
+ Eugenius IV., Pope, 97, 98
+ Evian, 89, 91, 93
+
+ Farel, 6, 104
+ Felix V., 97, 98
+ Florimontane Academy, 105
+ Fox, Charles James, 28, 30
+ Fraubrunnen, 62
+
+ Gesner, 69
+ Gibbon, 13, 17, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 27, 29, 30, 34, 35, 36, 39,
+ 40, 41, 42, 61, 65
+ Godet, M. Philippe, 80
+
+ Hardenberg, Madame de, 53
+ d'Haussonville, Monsieur, 20, 21, 22, 23
+
+ Jomini, 69
+
+ Knox, John, 13
+
+ Laharpe, César, 61, 62, 83
+ Lavater, 69
+ 'Lettres de Lausanne,' 41
+ Ligne, Prince and Princesse de, 31
+ Lindsay, Mrs., 53
+
+ Maistre, Count Joseph de, 105, 106, 107
+ Maistre, Count Xavier de, 105
+ Meillerie, 93
+ Mercier, 31
+ Michaut, M., 78
+ Montolieu, Madame de, 39, 40, 41
+ Moore, Dr. John, 71
+ Morges, 61, 83
+ Moudon, 2
+ Moultou, Pastor, 22
+
+ Necker, Jacques, 31, 34, 37
+ Necker, Madame, 20, 31, 32, 34, 35, 36, 37
+ Necker, M., Madame, and Mademoiselle, 31
+ Nyon, 83, 84, 86
+
+ Olivier, Juste, 77, 79
+ Olivier, Madame, 78
+
+ Pavilliard, Pastor, 13
+ Peter of Savoy, 3
+ Pestalozzi, 67
+ Philibert, Duke Emanuel, 95
+
+ Raynal, Abbé, 31
+ _Revue Suisse_, 79
+ Ripaille, 96, 97
+ Robespierre, 62
+ Rocca, Albert de, 58, 60
+ Rolle, 61, 83
+ Rousseau, 23
+ Rovéreaz, Colonel de, 62
+
+ Sainte-Beuve, 76, 77, 79
+ Saint-Cergues, 87
+ St. Francis de Sales, 89, 93, 95, 98, 101, 102, 103, 105
+ Saint-Pierre, Bernardin de, 45
+ Saussure, 69
+ Schlegel, 55
+ Sénancour, 106
+ Sheffield, Lord, 29, 40
+ Staël, Madame de, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56,
+ 57, 58, 59, 63, 85, 86, 106
+ Staël, M. de, 48
+ Sylvius, Æneas, 97, 98, 100
+
+ Talma, Madame, 49
+ Thonon, 93, 102
+ Tissot, Dr., 31, 42, 43
+
+ Vinet, Alexandre, 76, 77, 79, 80
+ Viret, 6, 7, 80
+ Voght, Baron de, 59
+ Voltaire, 13, 30, 83, 86
+ Vulliemin, Louis, 2, 3, 6, 7
+
+ Waldenses, 84
+ Warens, Madame de, 93
+ Wurtemberg, Prince of, 43
+
+ Zaeringen, 1
+
+
+ BILLING AND SONS, LIMITED, PRINTERS, GUILFORD
+
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+<body>
+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Lausanne, by Francis Henry Gribble,
+Illustrated by J. Hardwicke Lewis and May Hardwicke Lewis</h1>
+<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a
+href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></p>
+<p>Title: Lausanne</p>
+<p>Author: Francis Henry Gribble</p>
+<p>Release Date: June 23, 2014 [eBook #46074]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LAUSANNE***</p>
+<p> </p>
+<h4>E-text prepared by sp1nd, JoAnn Greenwood,<br />
+ and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+ (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br />
+ from page images generously made available by<br />
+ Internet Archive<br />
+ (<a href="https://archive.org">https://archive.org</a>)</h4>
+<p> </p>
+<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10">
+ <tr>
+ <td valign="top">
+ Note:
+ </td>
+ <td>
+ Images of the original pages are available through
+ Internet Archive. See
+ <a href="https://archive.org/details/lausanne00gribiala">
+ https://archive.org/details/lausanne00gribiala</a>
+ </td>
+ </tr>
+</table>
+<p> </p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p> </p>
+<p> </p>
+<p> </p>
+
+<p class="p2 center"><big>LAUSANNE</big></p>
+
+
+<p class="p2 center"><i>UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME</i></p>
+
+<div class="bbox">
+
+<p>MONTREUX</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="smcap">Painted by J. Hardwicke Lewis and
+May Hardwicke Lewis</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Described by Francis Gribble</span><br />
+<br />
+<small>Containing 20 full-page Illustrations in Colour and a
+Sketch-Map.</small><br />
+<br />
+Square Demy 8vo., cloth, gilt top<br />
+<b>Price 7/6 net</b><br />
+(<i>Post free, price 7/11</i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<hr class="r5" />
+
+<p>GENEVA</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="smcap">Painted by J. Hardwicke Lewis and
+May Hardwicke Lewis</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Described by Francis Gribble</span><br />
+<br />
+<small>Containing 20 full-page Illustrations and a
+Sketch-Map.</small><br />
+<br />
+Square Demy 8vo., cloth, gilt top<br />
+<b>Price 7/6 net</b><br />
+(<i>Post free, price 7/11</i>)<br />
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center"><small>PUBLISHED BY A. AND C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.</small></p>
+
+
+<p class="p4 center">AGENTS</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Agents">
+<tr><td align="left"><b>AMERICA</b></td><td align="left">THE MACMILLAN COMPANY</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><span class="smcap indent1">64 & 66 Fifth Avenue, NEW YORK</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><b>AUSTRALASIA</b></td><td align="left">OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><span class="smcap indent1">205 Flinders Lane, MELBOURNE</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><b>CANADA</b></td><td align="left">THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><span class="smcap indent1">27 Richmond Street West, TORONTO</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><b>INDIA</b></td><td align="left">MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><span class="smcap indent1">Macmillan Building, BOMBAY<br />
+ <span class="indent1">309 Bow Bazaar Street, CALCUTTA</span></span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><a name="i_4" id="i_4"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_004.jpg" width="600" height="422" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>LAUSANNE CATHEDRAL FROM
+MONTBENON</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="titlepage">
+<p class="p2"> </p>
+
+<h1>LAUSANNE</h1>
+
+<p>PAINTED BY<br />
+J. HARDWICKE LEWIS &<br />
+MAY HARDWICKE LEWIS<br />
+<br />
+DESCRIBED BY<br />
+FRANCIS GRIBBLE<br />
+<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 100px;">
+<img src="images/title_page_logo.png" width="100" height="103" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>
+LONDON<br />
+ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK<br />
+1909<br />
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<p class="p4 center"><big>Contents</big></p>
+
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CHAPTER I</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_I"><span class="smcap">The Rule of Savoy and Berne</span></a></td><td align="right">1</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CHAPTER II</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_II"><span class="smcap">Emigrants and Immigrants</span></a></td><td align="right">11</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CHAPTER III</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_III"><span class="smcap">Gibbon</span></a></td><td align="right">15</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CHAPTER IV</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><span class="smcap">Madame de Montolieu—Dr. Tissot</span></a></td><td align="right">39</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CHAPTER V</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_V"><span class="smcap">Benjamin Constant and Madame de Staël</span></a></td><td align="right">45</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CHAPTER VI</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><span class="smcap">The Revolution</span></a></td><td align="right">61</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CHAPTER VII</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><span class="smcap">The English Colony—The Educational Advantages</span></a></td><td align="right">65</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CHAPTER VIII<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><span class="smcap">Vinet and Sainte-Beuve—Juste Olivier</span></a></td><td align="right">75</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CHAPTER IX</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><span class="smcap">Nyon</span></a></td><td align="right">83</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CHAPTER X</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_X"><span class="smcap">The French Shore</span></a></td><td align="right">89</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CHAPTER XI</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI"><span class="smcap">History of the French Shore—Felix V</span></a></td><td align="right">95</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CHAPTER XII</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII"><span class="smcap">St. Francis de Sales</span></a></td><td align="right">99</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CHAPTER XIII</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII"><span class="smcap">Joseph de Maistre</span></a></td><td align="right">105</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#INDEX"><span class="smcap">Index</span></a></td><td align="right">109</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p class="p4 break-before center"><big>List of Illustrations</big></p>
+
+
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Illustrations">
+<tr><td align="right">1.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_4">Lausanne Cathedral from Montbenon</a></td><td align="right"><i>Frontispiece</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="right"><small>FACING PAGE</small></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">2.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_19">Mont Blanc from above Morges</a></td><td align="right">4</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">3.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_27">Morges and the Lake from the Road to Vufflens</a></td><td align="right">8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">4.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_35">Château de Vufflens, above Lausanne</a></td><td align="right">12</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">5.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_43">The Spires of St. François, Lausanne</a></td><td align="right">16</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">6.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_51">Château de Prangins</a></td><td align="right">20</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">7.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_61">Lausanne, looking East</a></td><td align="right">26</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">8.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_71">The Market Place, Lausanne</a></td><td align="right">32</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">9.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_81">La Tour de Haldimand—Ouchy—Lausanne</a></td><td align="right">38</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">10.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_91">Lausanne from the Signal</a></td><td align="right">44</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">11.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_101">In the Forest of Sauvabelin, above Lausanne</a></td><td align="right">50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">12.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_111">Château de Blonay</a></td><td align="right">56</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">13.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_121">The Rhone Valley from Mont Pelerin</a></td><td align="right">62</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">14.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_131">A Street in St. Saphorin</a></td><td align="right">68</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">15.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_141">The Dents du Midi and La Tour from "Entre deux Villes"</a></td><td align="right">74</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">16.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_151">Lutry</a></td><td align="right">80</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">17.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_161">Cully from Epesse—Autumn</a></td><td align="right">86</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">18.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_171">Grandvaux from Cully</a></td><td align="right">92</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">19.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_181">The Rhone Valley from Chexbres</a></td><td align="right">98</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">20.</td><td align="left"><a href="#i_191">The Church of St. Martin, Vevey</a></td><td align="right">104</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a><br />
+
+<small>THE RULE OF SAVOY AND BERNE</small></h2>
+
+
+<p>Though Lausanne is so near Geneva, its history,
+in historical times, has been widely different from
+that of the neighbouring town. Geneva enjoyed a
+modified independence from an early date, and
+became completely independent early in the sixteenth
+century. Lausanne, until nearly 300 years
+later, endured the domination, first of Savoy, and
+subsequently of Berne.</p>
+
+<p>The early history is obscure and full of vexed
+questions as well as unfamiliar names; but the
+central fact is that the Counts of Savoy—they were
+not promoted to be Dukes of Savoy until later—took
+possession of the Canton of Vaud, as well as
+of the Chablais and the lower Valais, after the
+death of the last of the Zaeringen, at the beginning
+of the thirteenth century. For the next 300 years
+they exercised overlordship, limited by the charters
+of the towns, and, in the case of Lausanne, by the
+jurisdiction of the Bishop—a complicated state of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span>
+things which the Swiss historical societies may be
+left to unravel.</p>
+
+<p>It seems clear, however, that the Savoyards were
+no hard taskmasters. 'The country of Vaud,' says
+its historian, Louis Vulliemin, 'was happy and
+proud to belong to them. They exacted little
+from it, and accorded it their powerful protection.
+The various States used to assemble at Moudon,
+the central town, summoned by the Council of
+Moudon, or by the Governor of Vaud, acting as
+the representative of the Prince. There was no
+palace. They met in an inn, or in the house of
+one of the citizens of the neighbourhood. Often
+they assembled in such small numbers that, for
+lack of a quorum, no decision could be taken....
+No burdensome or unduly progressive measures
+were adopted. As a rule, the good old customs
+were confirmed. When a departure from them
+was resolved upon, it became law by receiving the
+sanction of the Prince. The business of the herald
+was to see that it was proclaimed, in the proper
+places, in a loud and intelligible voice. The Prince
+had sworn an oath to impose no new legislation
+that was not in accordance with the will of the
+nation as expressed by the estates of the realm.'</p>
+
+<p>The most notable of the Governors was Peter of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span>
+Savoy—the same Peter of Savoy whom we meet
+in English history, fighting in the civil wars of
+the days of Simon de Montfort. His headquarters
+were in the Castle of Chillon, where he not only
+dispensed justice, but also amended the criminal
+law. It was the barbarous rule of the time that
+an offender who had been fined for a misdemeanour
+should have his nose cut off if he were unable
+to pay; Peter compelled even the Bishops to
+abandon that cruel custom. For the rest, to quote
+Vulliemin:</p>
+
+<p>'He received his vassals in the great hall of the
+Castle, where their coats of arms hung on the wall
+around that of the House of Savoy. The blowing
+of a horn announced that the meal was served.
+The ladies arrived in their emblazoned best. The
+chaplain read the grace from a volume bound in
+violet and gold—the precious depositary of Divine
+law and ecclesiastical ritual. After the feast came
+the hour of merry recreations. The Court fool
+and the minstrels took their seats by the side of
+the Prince, and the nobility thus passed their lives
+in junketing.'</p>
+
+<p>This is the same writer's picture of the lives of
+the burghers:</p>
+
+<p>'At Lausanne the three estates met in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span>
+month of May. In 1398 they submitted to a
+fresh drafting of the "Plaid général," which defined
+the respective rights of bishop, canons, and
+burghers. Three days were devoted to the hearing
+of suits. On the fourth day the Plaid, accompanied
+by elders, went the round of the streets, and
+ordered the necessary repairs. All the citizens
+were required to follow, carrying axes or stakes, so
+as to be able to lend a hand when required. The
+Bishop regaled the artificers with bread, wine, and
+eggs. In return, the blacksmiths had to shoe his
+horses, the saddlers to provide him with spurs and
+bridles, and the coachbuilders to supply him with a
+carriage. Three times a year the Seneschal passed
+in front of the cobblers' shops, and touched with
+his rod the pair of boots which he selected for his
+lordship. In time of war the prelate's army had to
+serve the Prince for a day and a night without
+pay, and as much longer as they might be wanted
+for wages. The Bishop's business was to ransom
+prisoners, protect the citizens from all injustice,
+and go to war on their behalf if necessary.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="i_19" id="i_19"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_019.jpg" width="600" height="426" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>MONT BLANC FROM ABOVE MORGES</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>'Each district of the town had its special privileges.
+The fine for assault and battery was sixty
+livres in the city where the Bishop resided, sixty
+sous in the lower town, and only three sous outside<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span>
+the walls. The Bishop could not arrest a citizen
+without informing the burghers, or hold an inquest
+on the body of a dead man. The citizens of the
+Rue de la Bourg sat in judgment on criminals
+without assessors. Whenever they heard the
+summons, though they might be at the dinner-table,
+glass in hand, or in their shops measuring
+their cloth, they had to run off and give their opinion
+on the case. In return, they were exempt from
+certain taxes, had the sole right of placing hucksters'
+barrows in front of their shops, of using signboards,
+and of keeping inns.'</p>
+
+<p>It was the Reformation that terminated this
+primitive state of affairs. A succession of weak
+Governors had allowed the hold of the Dukes
+of Savoy over the country to be relaxed. It was
+impossible for them to maintain their authority
+when the people were indoctrinated with the new
+ideas. The end came when the Duke of Savoy
+threatened Geneva, and the Bernese marched
+through Vaud to the rescue, captured Chillon,
+delivered Bonivard, and kept the Canton for their
+reward.</p>
+
+<p>From the capture of Chillon onwards, Lausanne,
+like the rest of Vaud, was a Bernese dependency.
+Bernese governors (or baillis) were established in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span>
+all the strong places, and Protestantism became the
+national religion.</p>
+
+<p>The conversion of the inhabitants was chiefly
+effected by Viret, a tailor's son, from Orbe, an
+excellent man, and a persuasive rather than an
+eloquent speaker. In 1536, after the fashion of the
+times, he, Calvin, and Farel challenged the Catholic
+theologians to a great debate. The monks, recognizing
+him as a formidable antagonist, had previously
+tried to get rid of him by surreptitious means.
+One of them had assaulted him at Payerne, and
+another had attempted to poison him at Geneva.
+At Lausanne they were obliged to argue with
+him, and failed still more conspicuously. The
+argument lasted for a week, and, at the end of the
+week, the populace, considering that the Protestant
+case was proved, proceeded to the cathedral to
+desecrate the altars and smash the images, while
+the governors confiscated the Church property and
+offered it for sale. 'It was thus,' writes Vulliemin,
+'that Jost de Diesbach bought the church and
+vicarage of St. Christophe in order to turn the one
+into a baking house and the other into a country
+seat, and that Michel Augsburger transformed the
+ancient church of Baulmes into a stable for his
+cattle.'</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At the same time a disciplinary tribunal, somewhat
+on the lines of Calvin's theocracy at Geneva,
+was instituted to supervise the morals of the
+citizens; and absence from church was made
+punishable by fine, imprisonment, or banishment.
+Viret, it is true, was driven to resign his pastorate
+and leave Lausanne, because he was not allowed
+to refuse the Holy Communion to notorious evil-livers,
+and fifty other pastors followed his example;
+but the pastors who remained drafted a new moral
+code of sufficient severity, consisting, in the main,
+of a gloss upon each of the Ten Commandments,
+giving a list of the offences which it must be understood,
+for the future, to prohibit. Under the
+heading of Seventh Commandment, for example,
+it was written: 'This forbids fornication, drunkenness,
+baptismal and burial banquets, pride, dancing,
+and the use of tobacco and snuff.'</p>
+
+<p>A number of Sumptuary Laws were also adopted,
+to check the spread of luxury; and here again we
+cannot do better than quote Vulliemin:</p>
+
+<p>'The regulations prescribed the dress materials
+which each class of society might wear, and permitted
+none but the nobility to appear in gold-embroidered
+stuffs, brocades, collars of Paris point
+lace, and lace-embellished shoes. The women of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span>
+the middle classes were forbidden to wear caps
+costing more than ten crowns, or any sort of
+false hair, or more than one petticoat at a time.
+One regulation settled the size of men's wigs, and
+another determined how low a lady's bodice might
+be cut. There was a continual battle between
+authority and fashion, and fashion was always
+contriving to evade the law. The purpose of the
+magistracy was not only to maintain the privileges
+of the upper classes, but also to fortify domestic
+morality against the imperious demands of vanity.
+A special government department was instituted to
+stop the use of tobacco. The baillis alone considered
+that the law did not apply to them; but one day,
+when one of these officials opened his snuff-box in
+church, the preacher interrupted him. "Here," he
+said, "one only snuffs the Word of God." Above
+all things, however, morality was the object of the
+jealous care of the magistrates of Vaud. So it was
+with an outburst of holy wrath that they heard
+that there was at Vevey "a dancing master, a
+Catholic, whose presence caused great scandals, at
+balls, in the evenings, between the two sexes." The
+stranger was banished, and the town was censured
+for its criminal toleration.'</p>
+
+<p><a name="i_27" id="i_27"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_027.jpg" width="600" height="410" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>MORGES AND THE LAKE FROM THE
+ROAD TO VUFFLENS</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Such was the régime, and though, in externals,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span>
+it resembled the régime at Geneva, there was
+one very significant difference. The Genevan discipline
+was self-imposed, and at least expressed the
+will of a working majority of the people. The
+Lausanne discipline represented the will of a conqueror
+imposed upon a subject race, and the conqueror
+had a rough and heavy hand, and rigorously
+excluded the subject people from participation in
+public affairs. The consequences can be traced in
+their history, habits, and manners.</p>
+
+<p>There was one poor feeble attempt at revolt.
+A certain Major Davel, after whom one of the
+steamboats on the lake is called—a Pietist, and
+perhaps a religious maniac—a soldier of fortune,
+whose merits had attracted the attention of such
+good judges as the Duke of Marlborough and
+Prince Eugène, mustered the militia of Cully and
+marched into Lausanne, declaring that he had come
+to set the Canton free. Asked for explanations,
+he replied that he had been guided by direct
+inspiration from on high. The defence did not
+save him, and he perished on the scaffold in 1723.
+The revolution at which he aimed was not to be
+accomplished for another eighty years, and the
+event constitutes almost the whole of the political
+history of Lausanne during the period under review.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span></p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a><br />
+
+<small>EMIGRANTS AND IMMIGRANTS</small></h2>
+
+
+<p>Forbidden to seek careers at home, most of the
+aristocracy of Vaud went abroad to pursue fortune
+in the service of some foreign Power. There was
+always a good opening for them, whether as mercenary
+soldiers or as instructors of the young, and
+many of them achieved distinction and rose to high
+positions. Haldimand of Yverdon became a Lieutenant-General
+in the British Army and Governor
+of Canada. Réverdil of Nyon was first tutor to
+Christian VII. of Denmark, and afterwards his
+secretary. Amédée de Laharpe was one of Napoleon's
+generals; the only General, it is said, in the
+Army of Italy, who was not guilty of rapacity and
+extortion. Frédéric César de Laharpe held high
+office under Alexander I. of Russia; Dupuget of
+Yverdon was the tutor of the Russian Grand
+Dukes Nicolas and Michael; J. J. Cart was with
+Admiral Hood in America; Glayre became Polish
+Minister at St. Petersburg; Pache became Mayor<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>
+of Paris; the list could be almost indefinitely
+extended.</p>
+
+<p>Most of these emigrants, moreover, suffered from
+the nostalgia which is characteristic of the Swiss.
+It was not enough for them to come home to die;
+they liked to return in middle age, and spend at
+home the money which they had earned abroad.
+And when they did return, they had, of course, no
+longer the homely wits of the home-keeping youths.
+They were men of experience, men of the world,
+men of polished manners and cosmopolitan culture.
+Their presence gave a new and a broader tone to
+Lausanne society. They were not to be driven to
+church like a flock of sheep, or forbidden to go
+to the theatre like a pack of schoolboys, or stood
+in the pillory for playing cards, or told by the
+preachers what they should eat or wherewithal they
+should be clothed. So far as they were concerned
+the discipline of the Consistory broke down, and
+the Sumptuary Laws did not apply to them. Their
+example liberalized even the clergy. They insisted
+upon making Lausanne a pleasant place to live in.
+Strangers found out that it was pleasant, and came
+to settle there in large numbers. There was already
+a foreign colony in Lausanne from quite an early
+date in the eighteenth century.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><a name="i_35" id="i_35"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_035.jpg" width="600" height="432" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>CHÂTEAU DE VUFFLENS, ABOVE
+LAUSANNE</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Geneva had had its foreign colonists from a still
+earlier date, but they were exiles—Miles Coverdale,
+Bishop of Exeter, John Knox, John Bodley,
+William Whittingham, and others, who fled abroad
+to escape persecution by the Bloody Mary. With
+one accord they thanked their hosts for the hospitality
+bestowed upon them, and departed as soon as
+the accession of Elizabeth made it safe for them to
+do so. Some of the foreigners at Lausanne were
+also exiles, it is true, but hardly for conscience'
+sake, the opinions which had got them into trouble
+being more often political than religious. But they
+selected Lausanne as their place of residence because
+they liked it—not because it was a 'perfect
+school of Christ,' but because the site and the
+society were agreeable.</p>
+
+<p>Voltaire himself lived there for a little while
+before he settled down at Ferney, and encountered
+no theological objection to the theatrical performances
+which he organized. Gibbon, who was there
+at the time, living in the house of Pastor Pavilliard,
+declared that the entertainments, to which he was
+sometimes invited, 'refined in a visible degree the
+manners of Lausanne';<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> and the philosopher himself
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>paid a tribute to those manners in a letter to
+D'Alembert, in which he wrote: 'All the amenities
+of society and sound philosophy have found their
+way into the part of Switzerland in which the
+climate is most agreeable and wealth abounds.
+The people here have succeeded in grafting the
+politeness of Athens upon the simplicity of Sparta.'</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a><br />
+
+<small>GIBBON</small></h2>
+
+
+<p>Voltaire belongs to Geneva rather than to Lausanne.
+The most distinguished of the strangers
+upon whom Lausanne has an exclusive claim is
+Gibbon.</p>
+
+<p>He was sent there, in the first instance, as a
+punishment for having embraced the Roman
+Catholic faith, and was lodged in the house of
+M. Pavilliard, a Calvinistic minister, whose instructions
+were to educate his pupil if possible, but
+to convert him at all costs. The desired conversion
+was effected, though it was more thorough than had
+been intended. Gibbon was persuaded to receive
+the Sacrament from a Protestant pastor, but never
+troubled himself with religion afterwards except in
+the capacity of historian. But, though he was at
+first treated like a schoolboy, and consoled himself
+for the loss of his liberty by getting drunk, he soon
+fell in love with the town—'Fanny Lausanne,' as
+he called it in a letter—and also fell in love with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span>
+Mademoiselle Suzanne Curchod. That is one of
+the most famous of all literary love-stories, and one
+may properly pause here to relate it at length.</p>
+
+<p>Mademoiselle Curchod was the daughter of a
+country clergyman—very well educated, very
+beautiful, and very generally admired. Her earliest
+admirers were, naturally, the rising young ministers
+of the Gospel.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> It amused her to invite them to
+sign documents, composed in playful imitation of
+legal contracts, binding themselves 'to come and
+preach at Crassier as often as she required, without
+waiting to be solicited, pressed, or entreated, seeing
+that the greatest of their pleasures was to oblige
+her on every possible occasion.' Her female friends,
+hearing of this, wrote to her expressing their disapproval,
+and strongly advising her to turn the
+preachers out of the house as soon as they had
+finished their sermons; but there is no evidence
+that she acted on their advice.</p>
+
+<p><a name="i_43" id="i_43"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 329px;">
+<img src="images/i_043.jpg" width="329" height="600" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>THE SPIRES OF ST. FRANÇOIS,
+LAUSANNE</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Visiting Lausanne, she extended the circle of her
+admirers. Her bright intelligence enabled her to
+shine as a member of a certain Société du Printemps,
+and also of a certain Académie des Eaux—a debating
+club given to the discussion of such problems as
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>'Does an element of mystery really make love more
+agreeable?' or 'Can there be friendship between a
+man and a woman in the same sense as between
+two women or two men?' Her conduct in this
+connection was such that her friends warned her
+that her desire to make herself agreeable to young
+men was too clearly advertised; but it does not
+appear that the warning made any impression on
+her. At all events, she was very successful in
+making herself agreeable to Gibbon, then a lad
+about eighteen years of age. 'Saw Mademoiselle
+Curchod. Omnia vincit amor, et nos cedamus
+amori,' is one of the early entries in his diary; and
+we have a picture of Gibbon, at about the same
+date, from Mademoiselle Curchod's own pen. In
+middle age—as we can see from his portraits—he
+was an ugly, ungainly, podgy little man; but it
+is not thus that he appears in the portrait drawn
+by the woman who loved him.</p>
+
+<p>'He has beautiful hair,' Mademoiselle Curchod
+writes, 'a pretty hand, and the air of a man of
+rank. His face is so intellectual and strange that
+I know no one like him. It has so much expression
+that one is always finding something new
+in it. His gestures are so appropriate that they
+add much to his speech. In a word, he has one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>
+of those extraordinary faces that one never tires
+of trying to depict. He knows the respect that
+is due to women. His courtesy is easy without
+verging on familiarity. He dances moderately
+well.'</p>
+
+<p>So these two naturally—and rightly and properly—fell
+in love; they must have seemed each other's
+ideal complements, if ever lovers were. But they
+were not to marry. The story of their attachment,
+their separation, and their subsequent Platonic
+friendship is one of the romances of literature.
+Gibbon himself has told the story in one of the
+most frequently quoted passages of his autobiography.
+His version of it is inexact and misleading;
+but it must be quoted, if only in order that
+it may be criticized:</p>
+
+<p>'I need not blush,' he writes, 'at recollecting the
+object of my choice; and though my love was disappointed
+of success, I am rather proud that I was
+once capable of feeling such a pure and exalted
+sentiment. The personal attractions of Mademoiselle
+Susan Curchod were embellished by the
+virtues and talents of the mind. Her fortune was
+humble, but her family was respectable. Her
+mother, a native of France, had preferred her
+religion to her country. The profession of her<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>
+father did not extinguish the moderation and
+philosophy of his temper, and he lived content with
+a small salary and laborious duty in the obscure
+lot of minister of Crassy, in the mountains that
+separate the Pays de Vaud from the county of
+Burgundy. In the solitude of a sequestered village
+he bestowed a liberal, and even learned, education
+on his only daughter. She surpassed his hopes by
+her proficiency in the sciences and languages; and
+in her short visits to some relations at Lausanne,
+the wit, the beauty, and erudition of Mademoiselle
+Curchod were the theme of universal applause. The
+report of such a prodigy awakened my curiosity;
+I saw and loved. I found her learned without
+pedantry, lively in conversation, pure in sentiment,
+and elegant in manners; and the first sudden
+emotion was fortified by the habits and knowledge
+of a more familiar acquaintance. She permitted
+me to make two or three visits at her father's house.
+I passed some happy days there, in the mountains
+of Burgundy, and her parents honourably encouraged
+the connection. In a calm retirement the gay
+vanity of youth no longer fluttered in her bosom,
+and I might presume to hope that I had made
+some impression on a virtuous heart. At Crassy
+and Lausanne I indulged my dream of felicity;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span>
+but on my return to England I soon discovered
+that my father would not hear of this strange
+alliance, and that, without his consent, I was myself
+destitute and helpless. After a painful struggle
+I yielded to my fate; I sighed as a lover, I
+obeyed as a son; my wound was insensibly healed
+by time, absence, and the habits of a new life. My
+cure was accelerated by a faithful report of the
+tranquillity and cheerfulness of the lady herself,
+and my love subsided in friendship and esteem.'</p>
+
+<p>Such is Gibbon's story, which is also the accepted
+story. It is, perhaps, a palliation of its inaccuracies
+that, at the time when he wrote it down, he and
+Mademoiselle Curchod—then Madame Necker—were
+on such pleasant terms of friendship that
+neither of them cared to remember or be reminded
+that either had ever treated the other badly. We
+shall come to that matter presently; here it is
+proper that the inaccuracies should be noted.</p>
+
+<p><a name="i_51" id="i_51"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 414px;">
+<img src="images/i_051.jpg" width="414" height="600" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>CHÂTEAU DE PRANGINS</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Steps by which Joseph Buonaparte
+escaped in 1815</span></p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Gibbon's story, it will be observed, gives us the
+impression that, on getting home, he lost no time
+in opening his heart to his father, and, having
+done this, lost no further time in acquainting
+Mademoiselle Curchod with his father's views.
+M. d'Haussonville tells us that he left Lausanne
+in 1758, kept Mademoiselle Curchod waiting four<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>
+years for a letter,<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> and then in 1762 sat down and
+wrote, breaking off the engagement. One shrinks
+from the attempt to picture the feelings of the poor
+girl who, after enduring suspense, and trying to
+frame excuses for silence, broke the seal of the
+long-expected missive, only to read:</p>
+
+<p>'I do not know how to begin this letter. Yet
+begin it I must. I take up my pen, I drop it, I
+resume it. This commencement shows you what
+it is that I am about to say. Spare me the rest.
+Yes, Mademoiselle, I must renounce you for ever.
+The sentence is passed; my heart laments it; but,
+in the presence of my duty, every other consideration
+must be silent....</p>
+
+<p>'My father spoke of the cruelty of deserting him,
+and of sending him prematurely to his grave, of
+the cowardice of trampling underfoot my duty to
+my country. I withdrew to my room and remained
+there for two hours. I will not attempt to picture
+to you my state of mind. But I left my room to
+tell my father that I agreed to sacrifice to him the
+happiness of my life.</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span></p>
+<p>'Mademoiselle, may you be happier than I can
+ever hope to be! This will always be my prayer;
+this will even be my consolation.... Assure
+M. and Madame Curchod of my respect, my
+esteem, and my regrets. Good-bye. I shall
+always remember Mademoiselle Curchod as the
+most worthy, the most charming, of women. May
+she not entirely forget a man who does not deserve
+the despair to which he is a prey.'</p>
+
+<p>Even this, however, was not the end of the
+story, though one would think it was if one had
+only Gibbon's narrative to go by. In 1763 he
+revisited Lausanne, and his own story of his
+sojourn does not so much as mention Mademoiselle
+Curchod's name. One would gather from it either
+that he did not see her, or that love had already on
+both sides 'subsided in friendship and esteem.'
+But when the Vicomte d'Haussonville was given
+access to the archives of the Necker family, he
+found letters proving that this was not by any
+means the case.</p>
+
+<p>Mademoiselle Curchod's father was then dead,
+and she was living at Geneva, supporting her
+mother by teaching. Some of her friends—notably
+Pastor Moultou—tried to bring Gibbon to a sense
+of the obligations which they felt he owed to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span>
+her. Rousseau was brought into the business,
+and expressed an opinion which led Gibbon to
+retort, 'That extraordinary man, whom I admire
+and pity, should have been less precipitate in condemning
+the moral character and conduct of a
+stranger.' It is useless, however, to try to piece
+the whole story together—the materials are inadequate.
+One can only take the letters which the
+Vicomte d'Haussonville has published, and which,
+as he points out, are by no means the whole of the
+correspondence, and see what sidelights they throw
+upon it.</p>
+
+<p>First we have one of Mademoiselle Curchod's
+letters. Whether she wrote it because she had
+met Gibbon and found his manner towards her
+changed, or was perplexed and troubled because he
+had not sought a meeting, we have no means of
+knowing. But it is quite clear that she wrote it
+under the sense of having been treated badly.</p>
+
+<p>'For five years,' she writes, 'I have, by my
+unique and, indeed, inconceivable behaviour, done
+sacrifice to this chimera. At last my heart,
+romantic as it is, has been convinced of my mistake.
+I ask you, on my knees, to dissuade me
+from my madness in loving you. Subscribe the
+full confession of your indifference, and my soul<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span>
+will adapt itself to the changed conditions; certainty
+will bring me the tranquillity for which I
+sigh. You will be the most contemptible of men
+if you refuse to be frank with me. God will
+punish you, in spite of my prayers, if there is the
+least hypocrisy in your reply.'</p>
+
+<p>The reply is lost. Mademoiselle Curchod
+presumably destroyed it because it pained her.
+Apparently it contained a proposal of Platonic
+friendship as a substitute for love. At all events,
+Mademoiselle Curchod's answer seems to accept
+that situation, whether with ulterior designs or not,
+for it begins:</p>
+
+<p>'What is fortune to me? Besides, it is not to
+you that I have sacrificed it, but to an imaginary
+being which will never exist elsewhere than in a
+silly, romantic head like mine. From the moment
+when your letter disillusioned me, you resumed
+your place, in my eyes, on the same footing as
+other men; and, after being the only man whom I
+could love, you have become one of those to whom
+I feel the least drawn, because you are the one
+that bears the least resemblance to my chimerical
+ideal.... Follow out the plan that you propose,
+place your attachment for me on the same footing
+as that of my other friends, and you will find me<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>
+as confiding, as tender, and, at the same time, as
+indifferent as I am to them.'</p>
+
+<p>And the writer proceeds to take up the Platonic
+position at once, to criticize Gibbon's first essay in
+literature, to offer him useful introductions, and
+to ask him to advise her whether she would be
+likely to be well treated if she took a situation as
+'lady companion' in England.</p>
+
+<p>Even in this Platonic correspondence, however,
+Gibbon, with a prudence beyond his years, seems
+to have scented danger.</p>
+
+<p>'Mademoiselle,' he wrote, 'must you be for ever
+pressing upon me a happiness which sound reason
+compels me to decline? I have forfeited your love.
+Your friendship is left to me, and it bestows so
+much honour upon me that I cannot hesitate. I
+accept it, mademoiselle, as a precious offering in
+exchange for my own friendship, which is already
+yours, and as a blessing of which I know the value
+too well to be disposed to lose it.</p>
+
+<p>'But this correspondence, mademoiselle, I am
+sensible of the pleasures which it brings me, but, at
+the same time, I am conscious of its dangers. I
+feel the dangers that it has for me; I fear the
+dangers that it may have for both of us. Permit
+me to avoid those dangers by my silence. Forgive<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>
+my fears, mademoiselle; they have their origin
+in my esteem for you.'</p>
+
+<p>And he proceeded to answer her questions concerning
+the position and prospects of 'lady companions'
+in England, expecting, no doubt, that he
+would hear no more from her.</p>
+
+<p>Even then, however, the story was not ended.
+The most passionate of Mademoiselle Curchod's
+letters bears a later date. It is the letter of a
+woman who feels that she has been treated shamefully.
+If it were not that Mademoiselle Curchod
+made a happy marriage so very soon afterwards, one
+would also say that it was the letter of a woman
+whose heart was broken. One gathers from it that,
+while Mademoiselle Curchod appreciated Gibbon's
+difficulty in marrying her while he was dependent
+upon his father, she was willing to wait for him
+until his father's death should leave him free to
+follow the impulse of his heart. In the meantime
+she reproaches him for having caused her to reject
+other offers of marriage, and protests that it is not
+true, whatever calumnious gossips may have said,
+that, in Gibbon's absence, she has flirted with other
+men. Above all, she protests that she has not
+flirted with Gibbon's great friend, M. Deyverdun.
+Her last words are:</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p>
+
+<blockquote>
+
+<p>'I am treating you as an honest man of the
+world, who is incapable of breaking his promise, of
+seduction, or of treachery, but who has, instead of
+that, amused himself in racking my heart with
+tortures, well prepared, and well carried into effect.
+I will not threaten you, therefore, with the wrath
+of heaven—the expression that escaped from me in
+my first emotion. But I assure you, without laying
+any claim to the gift of prophecy, that you will one
+day regret the irreparable loss that you have
+incurred in alienating for ever the too frank and
+tender heart of</p>
+
+<p class="signature">
+'S. C.'<br />
+</p></blockquote>
+
+<p><a name="i_61" id="i_61"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_061.jpg" width="600" height="423" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>LAUSANNE, LOOKING EAST</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The rest is silence; and the presumption is
+strong that these were actually the last words
+which sealed the estrangement. If it were not
+for Mademoiselle Curchod's subsequent attitude
+towards him, one would be bound to say that
+Gibbon behaved abominably. But, as we shall
+see presently, her resentment was not enduring.
+Perhaps she was aware of extenuating circumstances
+that we do not know of. Perhaps, in her heart of
+hearts, she was conscious of having spread her net
+to catch a husband who then seemed a very brilliant
+match to the daughter of the country clergyman.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>
+The letter of the friend who begged her not to
+advertise so clearly her desire to make herself
+agreeable to men would certainly lend some colour
+to the suggestion. At any rate, since she herself
+forgave Gibbon, it seems unfair for anyone else to
+press the case against him.</p>
+
+<p>It was nearly twenty years later—in 1783—that
+Gibbon decided to make Lausanne his home.</p>
+
+<p>A good deal of water had flowed under the bridge
+in the meantime. He had written, and published,
+half of his History; and that half had sufficed to
+make him famous. He had been an officer in the
+militia and a Member of Parliament. He had been
+a constant figure in fashionable society, and an
+occasional figure in literary society; a fellow-member
+with Charles James Fox of Boodle's,
+White's, and Brooks's; a fellow-member of the
+Literary Club with Johnson, Burke, Adam Smith,
+Oliver Goldsmith, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Sir
+Joseph Banks. He had held office in the department
+of the Board of Trade, and lost it at the time
+of the coalition between Fox and North. His
+applications for employment in the Diplomatic
+Service—whether as Secretary to the Embassy at
+Paris or as Minister Plenipotentiary at Berne—had
+been politely rejected. And he had become a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>
+middle-aged bachelor whose income, unless supplemented
+by the emoluments of some public office,
+hardly sufficed for the demands of his social
+position.</p>
+
+<p>In these circumstances it occurred to him to
+propose to his friend, M. Deyverdun—the same
+M. Deyverdun with whom Mademoiselle Curchod
+vowed that she had never flirted—that they should
+keep house together at Lausanne. M. Deyverdun,
+who was like himself a confirmed bachelor of
+moderate means, and had a larger house than he
+wanted, was delighted with the proposal. All
+Gibbon's friends and relatives told him that he was
+making a fool of himself; but he knew better. He
+sold all his property, except his library, and 'bade
+a long farewell to the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">fumum et opes strepitumque
+Romæ</i>.' His first winter, as he puts it in his
+delightful style, 'was given to a general embrace
+without nice discrimination of persons and characters.'
+The comprehensive embrace completed,
+he settled down to work.</p>
+
+<p>His life at Lausanne is faithfully mirrored in his
+letters, more particularly in his letters to Lord
+Sheffield. It was at once a luxurious and an industrious
+life. One fact which stands out clearly is
+that Gibbon took no exercise. He boasts that, in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>
+a period of five years, he never moved five miles
+from Lausanne; he apologizes for a corpulence
+which makes it absolutely impossible for him to
+cross the Great Saint Bernard; he admits that, when
+he entertained Mr. Fox, he did not go for walks
+with that statesman, but hired a guide to do so on
+his behalf. He also drank a great deal of Madeira
+and Malvoisie. His letters to Lord Sheffield are
+full of appeals for pipes of these exhilarating
+beverages. He declares that they are necessary for
+the preservation of his health, and appears to have
+persuaded himself that they were good for gout.
+The consequence was that he had several severe
+attacks of that distressing malady.</p>
+
+<p>Gout or no gout, however, he freely enjoyed the
+relaxation of social intercourse. He was never
+tired of pointing out to his correspondents that,
+whereas in London he was nobody in particular, in
+Lausanne he was a leader of society. His position
+there was, in fact, similar in many ways to that
+of Voltaire at Geneva; though he differed from
+Voltaire in always keeping on good terms with
+all his neighbours. To be invited to his parties
+was no less a mark of distinction than it had been,
+a generation earlier, to be invited to the philosopher's
+parties at Ferney. One of the letters tells us how<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span>
+he gave a ball, and stole away to bed at 2 a.m.,
+leaving the young people, his guests, to keep it up
+till after sunrise. He also gave frequent dinners,
+and still more frequent card-parties. When the
+gout was very bad, he gave card-parties in his bedroom.</p>
+
+<p>Distinguished strangers often came to see him,
+and gave Lausanne the tone of a fashionable resort.
+'You talk of Lausanne,' he writes, 'as a place of
+retirement, yet, from the situation and freedom of
+the Pays de Vaud, all nations, and all extraordinary
+characters are astonished to meet each other.
+The Abbé Raynal, the great Gibbon, and Mercier,
+author of the "Tableau de Paris," have been in the
+same room. The other day the Prince and Princesse
+de Ligne, the Duke and Duchess d'Ursel, etc.,
+came from Brussels on purpose to act a comedy.'
+And again: 'A few weeks ago, as I was walking
+on our terrace with M. Tissot, the celebrated
+physician; M. Mercier, the author of the "Tableau
+de Paris"; the Abbé Raynal; Monsieur, Madame,
+and Mademoiselle Necker; the Abbé de Bourbon,
+a natural son of Lewis the Fifteenth; the Hereditary
+Prince of Brunswick, Prince Henry of Prussia,
+and a dozen Counts, Barons, and extraordinary
+persons,' etc.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>From time to time he faced the question whether
+it would be well to marry. Madame Necker dissuaded
+him from the adventure on the ground that
+in order to marry happily it is necessary to marry
+young. It is not certain that her advice was disinterested,
+but it was good advice to give to a man
+who, after expressing his readiness to adopt 'some
+expedient, even the most desperate, to secure the
+domestic society of a female companion,' summed
+up his sentiments upon the subject in this candid
+language:</p>
+
+<p>'I am not in love with any of the hyænas of
+Lausanne, though there are some who keep their
+claws tolerably well pared. Sometimes, in a solitary
+mood, I have fancied myself married to one or
+another of those whose society and conversation
+are the most pleasing to me; but when I have
+painted in my fancy all the probable consequences
+of such a union, I have started from my dream,
+rejoiced in my escape, and ejaculated a thanksgiving
+that I was still in possession of my natural
+freedom.'</p>
+
+<p><a name="i_71" id="i_71"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 439px;">
+<img src="images/i_071.jpg" width="439" height="600" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>THE MARKET-PLACE, LAUSANNE</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>This, however, was not written until after the
+History was finished. Gibbon never felt the need
+of a female companion so long as he had his work
+to occupy him. The fact that he began to feel it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>
+acutely as soon as ever the work was done gives an
+added pathos to this, the most famous and the most
+frequently quoted passage of his memoirs:</p>
+
+<p>'I have presumed to mark the moment of conception:
+I shall now commemorate the hour of
+my final deliverance. It was on the day, or rather
+night, of the 27th of June, 1787, between the hours
+of eleven and twelve, that I wrote the last lines
+of the last page, in a summer-house in my garden.
+After laying down my pen, I took several turns
+in a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">berceau</i>, or covered walk of acacias, which commands
+a prospect of the country, the lake, and the
+mountains. The air was temperate, the sky was
+serene, the silver orb of the moon was reflected
+from the waters, and all Nature was silent. I will
+not dissemble the first emotions on the recovery of
+my freedom, and, perhaps, the establishment of
+my fame. But my pride was soon humbled, and a
+sober melancholy was spread over my mind by the
+idea that I had taken an everlasting leave of an old
+and agreeable companion, and that whatsoever
+might be the future fate of my History, the life of
+the historian must be short and precarious.'</p>
+
+<p>The life of the historian was, in fact, destined to
+last only for another six years—years in which he
+sometimes was desperately anxious to relieve his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>
+loneliness, aggravated by the death of Deyverdun,
+by seeking 'the domestic society of a female companion,'
+but inclined, on the whole, to the opinion
+encouraged by Madame Necker, that the remedy
+would be worse than the disease. We probably
+shall not be wrong in conjecturing that the pleasure
+which he derived from Madame Necker's correspondence
+and society assisted him in coming to
+this decision. At any rate, we must admit that
+there are few literary romances more remarkable
+than this story, of the renewal of love some thirty
+years or so after a lovers' quarrel.</p>
+
+<p>The lovers parted, as we have seen, with high-strung
+feelings—at least upon the lady's side. They
+met again soon after Mademoiselle Curchod had
+accepted the heart and hand of Jacques Necker,
+the rich Parisian banker, destined to become
+Louis XVI.'s Minister of Finance. Gibbon, coming
+to Paris, called, and was well received. We have
+accounts of the visit from both of them. Madame
+Necker says that her vanity was flattered because
+Gibbon appeared to be dazzled by the contemplation
+of her wealth. Gibbon complains that he was
+not taken very seriously, that M. Necker invited
+him to supper every evening, and went to bed,
+leaving him alone with his wife. The philosopher<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span>
+Balzac would have called him a fool, and classed
+him with the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">prédestinés</i>; but it does not appear
+that scandal, or occasion for scandal, or anything
+worse than the interchange of sentimental <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">persiflage</i>,
+resulted.</p>
+
+<p>A gap in the history of their friendship follows,
+but in 1776 we find the Neckers visiting Gibbon in
+Bentinck Street. Gibbon writes patronizingly of
+the husband as 'a sensible, good-natured creature,'
+and of the wife he says: 'I live with her just as I
+used to do twenty years ago, laugh at her Paris
+varnish, and oblige her to become a simple, reasonable
+Suissesse.'</p>
+
+<p>We need not interpret this statement <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">au pied de
+la lettre</i>, but the visit certainly marks a stage in the
+story of their intimacy. Gibbon went to see the
+Neckers in Paris in the following year, and after
+his return to London Madame du Deffand told
+him how she had talked to Madame Necker about
+him. 'We talked of M. Gibbon. Of what else?
+Of M. Gibbon—continually of M. Gibbon.' And
+Madame Necker herself wrote, at about the same
+time, with reference to the publication of the first
+volumes of 'The Decline and Fall':</p>
+
+<p>'Wherever I go your books shall follow me, and
+give me pleasure and happiness. If you write, too,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span>
+your letters will be welcome and appreciated. If
+you do not write ... but I refuse to contemplate
+this painful possibility.'</p>
+
+<p>Gibbon's migration to Lausanne and the Neckers'
+purchase of their famous country seat at Coppet
+united them by still closer ties, and one cannot
+help noticing that at this period of their lives—when
+they were both something over fifty years of
+age—Madame Necker's letters to Gibbon became
+at once more frequent and more affectionate.
+Some of those letters, indeed, can only be distinguished
+from love-letters by reading into them our
+knowledge of Madame Necker's reputation for
+propriety. We have seen her dissuading Gibbon
+from marriage on the ground that to marry late is
+to marry unhappily. Another reason which she
+gives is that 'without a miracle it would be impossible
+to find a woman worthy of you.' Of a contemplated
+visit to Lausanne she says: 'I am looking
+forward with a delightful sentiment to the day I
+am to pass with you.' And afterwards:</p>
+
+<p>'Returning here, and finding only the tombs of
+those I loved so well, I found you, as it were, a
+solitary tree whose shade still covers the desert
+which separates me from the first years of my
+life.'</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>And in another letter, more sentimental still, we
+read:</p>
+
+<p>'Come back to us when you are free. The
+moment of your leisure ought always to belong to
+her who has been <i>your first love and your last</i>. I
+cannot make up my mind which of these titles is
+the sweeter and the dearer to my heart.'</p>
+
+<p>What are we to make of it all? Nothing,
+assuredly, that entitles us to cast a stone at
+Madame Necker, or to express for her husband a
+pity which he never felt for himself. Yet one
+imagines that after M. Necker, who kept such early
+hours, had retired to his well-earned repose, there
+must sometimes have been certain sentimental
+communings, in which the old note of <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">persiflage</i>
+was no longer to be heard. One listens in fancy to
+the regrets of these two who never forgot that they
+had once been lovers—regrets, no doubt, not openly
+expressed, but only coyly hinted—for the things
+that might have been.</p>
+
+<p>The regrets, we may take it, were tempered by
+the lurking consciousness that things were really
+better as they were. The lovers must have known
+that, if they had married on nothing a year, the
+one would never have written his history and the
+other would never have had her salon, but they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>
+would have been two struggling nonentities whom
+the world would never have heard of. They must
+have felt, too, that the success in life which they
+had achieved separately, but could not possibly
+have achieved together, had meant much to them:
+that in winning it they had fulfilled their destinies;
+that their tempers would have soured if they had
+had to live without it. All this they must have
+admitted to themselves, and even in their most
+candid moments, to each other. And yet—and
+yet——</p>
+
+<p><a name="i_81" id="i_81"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 444px;">
+<img src="images/i_081.jpg" width="444" height="600" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>LA TOUR DE HALDIMAND, OUCHY,
+LAUSANNE</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a><br />
+
+<small>MADAME DE MONTOLIEU—DR. TISSOT</small></h2>
+
+
+<p>To us, as we look backwards, Gibbon in Lausanne
+society figures as a Triton among the minnows,
+but to his contemporaries he probably seemed
+less important. He certainly did to his contemporaries
+in London. Boswell, as we all know, considered
+him the intellectual inferior of Dr. Johnson;
+and there is the story of the Duke of St. Albans
+accepting a presentation copy of his 'Decline and
+Fall of the Roman Empire' with the genial remark,
+'Hallo! Another two d——d thick volumes!
+Always scribble, scribble, scribble, eh, Mr. Gibbon!'
+No one in Lausanne took quite such a Philistine
+tone as that, but it is doubtful whether even
+Lausanne would have voted him a higher position
+than that of <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Primus inter pares</i>. Lausanne,
+after all, had its native notables, and was too
+near to its celebrities to see them in their true
+perspective. It had, among others, Madame de
+Montolieu.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>She was a beauty as well as a woman of letters,
+and Gibbon himself admired her in both capacities.
+He wrote to Lord Sheffield that there was 'danger'
+for him, and he was in danger of making himself
+ridiculous if of nothing worse. The story is told
+that he fell upon his knees to make a declaration of
+love to Madame Montolieu, and being too fat to
+rise without assistance, had to be helped to his feet
+by a domestic servant summoned for the purpose.
+He bore no malice, however, but even persuaded
+the lady to publish a novel which she had written
+'to amuse an aged relative,' offering, when she
+objected, to attest his belief in its merits by printing
+it under his own signature.</p>
+
+<p>The novel in question was 'Caroline de Lichtfield,'
+which has passed through many editions—the first
+in 1786 and the last in 1846—and been translated
+into English. Its enthusiastic reception launched
+its author upon a career. Her collected works, including
+a French translation of 'The Swiss Family
+Robinson,' fill 105 volumes; and a host of imitators
+arose. 'Well! are they still turning out novels at
+Lausanne?' was one of the questions that Napoleon
+asked the Council of the Helvetian Republic; and
+Louis Bridel, brother of the more famous Doyen
+Bridel, writing in 1787, drew a graphic picture of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span>
+the Lausanne ladies, all with one accord engaged
+in literary toil:</p>
+
+<p>'The romance of "Caroline," and the renown
+which it has brought its author, has caused such a
+ferment in our feminine heads that, jealous of the
+reputation of one of their number, they cover an
+incredible quantity of paper with ink. They pass
+their days in writing novels; their toilette tables
+are no longer covered with chiffons, but with sheets
+of notepaper; and, if one unfolds a curlpaper, one
+is sure to find that it is a fragment of a love-letter,
+or of a romantic description.'</p>
+
+<p>Madame de Charrière, a rival craftswoman of
+whom we shall have to speak, the author of
+'Lettres de Lausanne,' did not like Madame de
+Montolieu. She called her a 'provincial coquette,'
+and ridiculed her 'pretentions,' maintaining that,
+though her countrymen were attracted by her
+charms, 'the English who boarded with her stepfather
+considered her a disgustingly dirty and
+untidy person.' But Gibbon, who was not only
+English but a man of taste, thought otherwise, as
+we have seen; and his judgment may be accepted
+as the less prejudiced of the two. And Madame
+de Montolieu's literary success, at any rate, is not
+to be disputed. She lived to be an octogenarian,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span>
+and retained her popularity until the last.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> She
+and her only child, dying simultaneously, were
+buried in the same grave, on which may be read the
+inscription, 'Here I am, O Lord, with the son
+whom Thou hast given me!'</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Tissot, whom we have already met on the
+Terrace at Lausanne, is another celebrity of the
+period who merits further mention. He and
+Gibbon once danced a minuet together at an evening
+party—a penalty imposed upon them in a game
+of 'forfeits.' They thus, says Tissot's German
+biographer, Eynard, 'revived the innocent pleasures
+of Arcadia of old'; but the great physician, is
+less famous for the way in which he took his
+pleasures than for the way in which he did his
+work. Tronchin of Geneva had been the medical
+attendant of the cosmopolitan aristocracy, had
+anticipated Rousseau in exhorting mothers to
+nurse their own children, and had ventured, with
+a rude hand, to open the windows of the Palace of
+Versailles. Tissot of Lausanne aspired to be the
+medical adviser of the common people. 'While,'
+he wrote, 'we are attending the most brilliant
+portion of humanity in the cities, the most useful
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>members of society are perishing miserably in the
+country villages.'</p>
+
+<p>Obviously, he could not do much personally to
+cure the ailments of a scattered rural population;
+but he did what he might to help them by writing
+popular manuals of hygiene. Some of his advice is
+not even now out of date. He denounced the vice
+of overfeeding the delicate: 'The more one loves
+an invalid, the more one tries to make him eat; and
+that is to kill him with kindness.' He also spoke
+vigorous words against excessive tea-drinking:</p>
+
+<p>'These teapots full of hot water which I find on
+people's tables remind me of the box of Pandora
+from which all evils issued—but with this difference,
+that they do not even leave hope behind, but, being
+a cause of hypochondria, disseminate melancholy
+and despair.'</p>
+
+<p>These excellent pamphlets brought Tissot fame
+and the friendship of the great. Joseph II. offered
+him a medical chair at the University of Padua,
+which he occupied for two years. He was offered,
+but did not accept, the posts of physician at the
+Courts of Hanover and Poland. The Prince of
+Wurtemberg—he whom Rousseau addressed in the
+famous letter beginning 'If I had had the misfortune
+to be born a Prince'—settled at Lausanne<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>
+in order to be near him; and many interesting
+people sought his advice by correspondence. In
+particular a certain young gunner wrote from
+Ajaccio to ask what his uncle, an Archdeacon, had
+better take for the gout. The orthography is
+curious: '<span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">S'il asseie de remuer les genoux, des
+douleurs égus lui font cesser son accion.</span>' The
+signature is '<span class="smcap">Buonaparte</span>, <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Officier au régiment de
+la Fère</i>.'</p>
+
+<p><a name="i_91" id="i_91"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_091.jpg" width="600" height="469" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>LAUSANNE FROM THE SIGNAL</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a><br />
+
+<small>BENJAMIN CONSTANT AND MADAME DE STAËL</small></h2>
+
+
+<p>Next, though they do not become interesting
+until a somewhat later date, we may mention the
+Constants: Rosalie de Constant, the witty little
+hunchback whose sentimental correspondence with
+Bernardin de Saint-Pierre has recently been
+published, and her more famous cousin, Benjamin
+Constant de Rebecque, the story of whose love for
+Madame de Staël has recently been revived.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> That
+is another story which will be here in its proper
+place.</p>
+
+<p>Benjamin was a man of many love-affairs;
+'Constant the inconstant' was the name that women
+called him by. He was the son of a Swiss soldier
+of fortune, and had a cosmopolitan education at
+Oxford and Edinburgh, in Belgium and in Germany.
+In his youth he held the post of Chamberlain at
+the Court of Brunswick, where he acquired distingished
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>manners. He was brilliant, though
+shallow, and there was something Wertheresque
+about him.</p>
+
+<p>Born in 1767, he was married, in 1789, to the
+ugliest of the Duchess of Brunswick's maids of
+honour. He said afterwards that he had married
+her for no particular reason that he could remember,
+but that his reasons for divorcing her were clear
+enough. After his separation from her, he consoled
+himself by an intrigue with Madame de Charrière—a
+Dutch lady, married to a Switzer, residing at
+Colombier, near Neuchâtel, and known as the
+authoress of several sentimental novels. It was an
+affair that could hardly have lasted long in any
+case, seeing that the lady was twenty-seven years
+older than her lover. As a matter of fact it came to
+a quick end when the lover met Madame de Staël.</p>
+
+<p>The details of that meeting are curious.
+Being at Lausanne, Benjamin Constant set out
+to call on Madame de Staël at Coppet. His
+relatives already knew, and he was interested
+to make her acquaintance. It happened that he
+met Madame de Staël on the road, driving from
+Coppet to Lausanne. He stopped the carriage and
+introduced himself. She invited him to get in, and
+drove him back. Finding his company agreeable,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>
+she pressed him to stay to supper with her. He
+did so, and was farther rewarded by an invitation
+to breakfast with his hostess on the following
+morning.</p>
+
+<p>It was to Madame de Charrière herself that
+Benjamin Constant first confided the impression
+that Madame de Staël had made upon him.</p>
+
+<p>'It is the most interesting acquaintance that I
+have ever made,' he wrote. 'Seldom have I seen
+such a combination of alluring and dazzling qualities,
+such brilliance, and such good sense, a friendliness
+so expansive and so cultivated, such generosity
+of sentiment, and such gentle courtesy. She is the
+second woman I have met for whom I could have
+counted the world well lost—you know who was
+the first. She is, in fact, a being apart—a superior
+being, such as one meets but once in a century.'</p>
+
+<p>Having read that, Madame de Charrière knew
+that she had passed for ever out of Benjamin Constant's
+life. His own writings give us a glimpse of
+the early days of the new intimacy. Two passages
+from his diary, the second supplementing the first,
+supply the picture. Thus we read, on one day:</p>
+
+<p>'I had agreed with Madame de Staël that, in
+order to avoid compromising her, I should never
+stay with her later than midnight. Whatever the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span>
+charm of her conversation, and however passionate
+my desire for something more than her conversation,
+I had to submit to this rule. But this evening,
+the time having passed more quickly than
+usual, I pulled out my watch to demonstrate that
+it was not yet time for me to go. But the inexorable
+minute-hand having deceived me, in a moment
+of childish anger I flung the instrument of my
+condemnation on the floor and broke it. "How
+silly you are!" Madame de Staël exclaimed. But
+what a smile I perceived shining through her reproaches!
+Decidedly my broken watch will do
+me a good turn.'</p>
+
+<p>And the next day we find the entry:</p>
+
+<p>'I have not bought myself a new watch. I do
+not need one any more.'</p>
+
+<p>For a time the affair proceeded satisfactorily,
+no serious cloud appearing on the horizon until the
+death of M. de Staël. Then, of course, Madame
+de Staël was free to marry her lover, and Benjamin
+Constant proposed that she should do so. But she
+would not. One reason was that she did not wish
+to change a name that her writings had made
+famous; another, and perhaps a weightier one, that,
+though she loved Benjamin, she had no confidence
+in him—'Constant the inconstant' was inconstant<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>
+still. Though he loved Madame de Staël, he loved
+other women too. His intimacy with Madame
+Talma, the actor's wife, was notorious, and was not
+the only intimacy of the kind with which rumour
+credited him. Altogether, he was not the sort of
+man whom any woman could marry with any
+certainty that he would make her happy.</p>
+
+<p>So Madame de Staël refused to marry Benjamin
+Constant, and with her refusal their relations
+entered upon a fresh and interesting phase. Henceforward
+the story is one of subsiding passion on his
+part, and very desperate efforts on hers to fan the
+dying embers of his desire. Again and again he
+tried to break with her; again and again she overwhelmed
+him with her reproaches, and brought him
+back, a penitent slave, suing for the renewal of her
+favour. The time when these things happened
+was the time when her salon at Coppet was at the
+zenith of its renown. The story is told for us by
+Benjamin Constant himself, in his 'Journal Intime,'
+a diary not written for publication, but published,
+long after his death, in the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Revue Internationale</i>,<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a>
+in 1887.</p>
+
+<p>The tone, at first, is that of a man whom
+lassitude has overtaken after elegant debauchery.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>Benjamin Constant is only thirty-seven, yet he
+already feels himself an old man, whose powers are
+failing, who is no longer capable of strong emotion,
+or even of taking an intelligent interest in life.
+He writes, in fact, as if he were very tired. When
+something happens to remind him of his old attachment
+to Madame de Charrière, he writes thus:</p>
+
+<p>'It is seven years since I saw her—ten since our
+intimacy ended. How easily I then used to break
+every tie that bored me! How confident I was
+that I could always form others when I pleased!
+How clearly I felt that my life was mine to do
+what I liked with, and what a difference ten years
+have made! Now everything seems precarious,
+and ready to fly away from me. Even the privileges
+that I have do not make me happy. But I
+have passed the age of giving up anything, because
+I feel that I am powerless to replace anything.'</p>
+
+<p><a name="i_101" id="i_101"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;">
+<img src="images/i_101.jpg" width="421" height="600" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>IN THE FOREST OF SAUVABELIN,
+ABOVE LAUSANNE</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>He describes—sometimes with a languid resignation,
+and sometimes with a peevish resentment—Madame
+de Staël's repeated endeavours to drag
+him, a more or less reluctant victim, at her chariot
+wheels. This is a very typical entry:</p>
+
+<p>'A lively supper with the Prince de Belmonte.
+Left alone with Madame de Staël. The storm
+gradually rises. A fearful scene, lasting till three<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span>
+o'clock in the morning—on my lack of sensibility,
+my untrustworthiness, the failure of my actions to
+correspond with my sentiments. Alas! I would
+be glad to escape from monotonous lamentations,
+not over real calamities, but upon the universal
+laws of nature, and upon the advent of old age. I
+should be glad if she would not ask me for love
+after a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">liaison</i> of ten years' standing, at a time when
+we are both nearly forty years old, and after I have
+declared, times out of number, that I have no
+longer any love to give her. It is a declaration
+which I have never withdrawn, except for the purpose
+of calming storms of passion which frightened
+me.'</p>
+
+<p>So is this:</p>
+
+<p>'A letter from Madame de Staël, who finds my
+letters melancholy, and asks what it is that I require
+to make me happy. Alas! what I require is
+my liberty, and that is precisely what I am not
+allowed to have. I am reminded of the story of
+the hussar who took an interest in the prisoner
+whom he had to put to death, and said to him:
+"Ask me any favour you like, except to spare
+your life."'</p>
+
+<p>And this:</p>
+
+<p>'A fearful scene this evening with Madame de<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>
+Staël. I announce my intention of leaving her
+definitely. A second scene follows. Frenzy:
+reconciliation impossible; departure difficult. I
+must go away and get married.'</p>
+
+<p>And this:</p>
+
+<p>'Madame de Staël has won me back to her
+again.'</p>
+
+<p>Until, finally, their relations gradually going
+from bad to worse, we reach this striking piece of
+eloquence:</p>
+
+<p>'Yes, certainly I am more anxious than ever to
+break it off. She is the most egoistical, the most
+excitable, the most ungrateful, the most vain, and
+the most vindictive of women. Why didn't I
+break it off long ago? She is odious and intolerable
+to me. I must have done with her or die.
+She is more volcanic than all the volcanoes in the
+world put together. She is like an old <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">procureur</i>,
+with serpents in her hair, demanding the fulfilment
+of a contract in Alexandrine verse.'</p>
+
+<p>It was in marriage that Benjamin Constant
+gradually decided to seek a haven of refuge from
+these tempestuous passions. But, though he is
+continually touching on the subject in his diary, he
+generally refers to it without enthusiasm. Marriage
+is 'necessary' for him, but there are objections to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span>
+every particular marriage that suggests itself.
+Sometimes the objections are expressed in general
+terms:</p>
+
+<p>'Went to a party, where I met several agreeable
+women. But I am very unfortunate. In the
+women whom I might be able and willing to marry
+there is always a something that does not suit me.
+Meanwhile my life advances.'</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes the objections are particularized:</p>
+
+<p>'Trip to Geneva; called on the Mesdemoiselles de
+Sellon; saw Amélie Fabry again. She is as dark
+as ever, as lively as ever, as wide awake as ever.
+How I should have hated her, if they had succeeded
+in making me marry her! Yet she is really a very
+amiable girl. But I am always unfortunate in
+finding some insuperable objection in every woman
+whom I think of marrying. Madame de Hardenberg
+was tiresome and romantic; Mrs. Lindsay
+was forty, and had two illegitimate children.
+Madame de Staël, who understands me better than
+anyone else does, will not be satisfied with my
+friendship when I can no longer give her my love.
+This poor Amélie, who would like me to marry
+her, is thirty-two, and portionless, and has ridiculous
+mannerisms, which become more accentuated
+as she grows older. Antoinette, who is twenty,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>
+well off, and not particularly ridiculous, is such a
+common little thing to look at.'</p>
+
+<p>But Benjamin Constant finally decided to marry
+Madame Dutertre.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> He bought her from her
+husband, who, for a sum of money, was willing to
+divorce her; but it was not without a violent
+struggle that he tore himself away from Madame
+de Staël. Let us trace the story of the struggle
+in his diary. Madame Dutertre was an old
+friend:</p>
+
+<p>'Called on Madame Dutertre, who has improved
+wonderfully in appearance. I made advances
+which she did not repel. The citadel is to fall
+to-night. Two years' resistance is quite long
+enough.</p>
+
+<p>'Off to the country with Charlotte. She is an
+angel. I love her better every day. She is so
+sweet, so amiable. What a fool I was to refuse to
+have anything to do with her twelve years ago!
+What mad passion for independence drove me to
+put my neck under the foot of the most imperious
+woman in the world!</p>
+
+<p>'We are back in Paris. Joyous days; delights
+of love. What the devil is the meaning of it? It
+is twelve years since I last felt a similar emotion.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span>This woman, whom I have refused a hundred
+times, who has always loved me, whom I have sent
+away, whom I left eighteen months ago—this
+woman now turns my head. Evidently the contrast
+with Madame de Staël is the cause of it all. The
+contrast of her impetuosity, her egoism, and her
+continual preoccupation with herself, with the
+gentleness, the calm, the humble and modest
+bearing of Charlotte, makes the latter a thousand
+times more dear to me. I am tired of the <i>man-woman</i>
+whose iron hand has for ten years held me
+fast, when I have a really womanly woman to
+intoxicate and enchant me. If I can marry her, I
+shall not hesitate. Everything depends on the line
+M. Dutertre takes.'</p>
+
+<p>M. Dutertre, as has been stated, took the line of
+offering to consent to a divorce provided it were
+made worth his while to do so. Madame de Staël
+was more difficult to deal with. The first entry
+which gives us a glimpse of her feelings is as
+follows:</p>
+
+<p>'Madame de Staël is back; she will not hear of
+our relations being broken off. The best way will
+be not to see her again, but to wait at Lausanne
+for orders from Charlotte—my good angel whom
+I bless for saving me. Schlegel writes that Madame<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span>
+de Staël declares that, if I leave her, she will kill
+herself. I don't believe a word of it.'</p>
+
+<p>Followed by:</p>
+
+<p>'Unhappy fool that I am; weakness overcomes
+me; I start for Coppet. Tenderness, despair, and
+then the trump card, "I shall kill myself."'</p>
+
+<p>He fled to Lausanne, but—</p>
+
+<p>'What was the good of coming here? Madame
+de Staël has come after me, and all my plans are
+upset. In the evening there was a fearful scene,
+lasting till five o'clock in the morning. I am
+violent, and put myself in the wrong. But, my
+poor Charlotte, I will not forsake you.'</p>
+
+<p>Yet he had hardly written these lines when he
+was false to them. Madame de Staël came a second
+time to Lausanne to fetch him, and we read:</p>
+
+<p>'She came; she threw herself at my feet; she
+raised frightful cries of pain and desolation. A
+heart of iron would not have resisted. I am back
+at Coppet with her. I have promised to stay six
+weeks, and Charlotte is expecting me at the end
+of the month. My God! what am I to do? I
+am trampling my future happiness under my
+feet....</p>
+
+<p>'I receive a letter from Charlotte, who is more
+loving and more sure of me than ever. Would she<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span>
+forgive me if she knew where I am and what I am
+doing? How slowly the time passes! Into what
+an abysm have I not hurled myself! Last night
+we had a dreadful scene. Shall I ever get out of
+it all alive? I have to pass my time in falsehood
+and deceptions in order to avoid the furious outbreaks
+which so terrify me. If it were not for the
+hopes which I build upon Madame de Staël's
+approaching departure to Vienna, this life would be
+unbearable. To console myself I spend my time
+in picturing how things will go if they go well.
+This is my Castle in Spain. Charlotte finishes her
+arrangements, and makes her preparations secretly.
+Madame de Staël, suspecting nothing, sets out for
+Vienna. I marry Charlotte, and we pass the
+winter pleasantly at Lausanne.'</p>
+
+<p><a name="i_111" id="i_111"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 460px;">
+<img src="images/i_111.jpg" width="460" height="600" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>CHÂTEAU DE BLONAY</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Though this was not exactly how things happened,
+the marriage was nevertheless speedily and
+safely celebrated. But alas! poor Benjamin! It
+was now his turn, in the midst of his domestic bliss,
+to feel the pangs of unrequited love. Having fled
+from Madame de Staël, he sighed for her. His
+diary is full of his regrets. It is:</p>
+
+<p>'Charlotte is good and sweet. I build myself
+foolish ideals, and throw the blame of my own folly
+upon others. At bottom Charlotte is what women<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span>
+always are. I have blamed individuals where I
+ought to have blamed the species. But for my
+work, and for the good advice that I need, I regret
+Madame de Staël more than ever.'</p>
+
+<p>Or it is:</p>
+
+<p>'A letter from Madame de Staël, from which I
+gather that, this time, all is really over between us.
+So be it. It is my own doing. I must steer my
+course alone, but I must take care not to fetter
+myself with other ties which would be infinitely
+less agreeable.'</p>
+
+<p>Or again:</p>
+
+<p>'I have lost Madame de Staël, and I shall never
+recover from the blow.'</p>
+
+<p>And the truth was, indeed, that Madame de
+Staël had ceased to care, and that another had
+succeeded to Benjamin Constant's place in her
+heart.</p>
+
+<p>His name was Albert de Rocca, and he was a
+young French officer who had been wounded in the
+Spanish wars. His personal beauty was such that
+a Spanish woman, finding him left for dead upon a
+battle-field, had taken him home with her, and
+nursed him back to health, saying that it was a
+pity that such a beautiful young man should die.
+His age was twenty-three, and Madame de Staël's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span>
+was forty-five. But the affection that sprang up
+between them was deep and genuine. 'I will love
+her,' he said, 'so dearly that she will end by marrying
+me.' And when she protested that she was
+old enough to be his mother, he answered that the
+mention of that word only gave him a further
+reason for loving her. 'He is fascinated,' Baron de
+Voght wrote, 'by his relations with Madame de
+Staël, and the tears of his father cannot induce him
+to abandon it.'</p>
+
+<p>So she married him, though, for reasons of her
+own, she insisted that the marriage should be kept
+a secret. It seemed to her that a young husband
+would make her ridiculous, but that a young lover
+would not; very possibly she was right according to
+the moral standard of the age. At any rate her
+husband posed as her lover, and in that capacity
+quarrelled with Constant, with whom he nearly
+fought a duel, and travelled with her to Russia, to
+Sweden, and to England, and lived with her in
+Paris and at Coppet. But it was at this period,
+when her fame was at its zenith, that Madame de
+Staël wrote: 'Fame is for women only a splendid
+mourning for happiness.'</p>
+
+<p>But the end was drawing near. Madame de Staël
+had lived all her life at high pressure, and her<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span>
+health was undermined. A lingering illness, of
+which the fatal issue was foreseen, overtook her.
+She struggled against it, declaring that she would
+live for Rocca's sake. But all in vain. She died
+in Paris in 1817. Rocca himself, who only survived
+her a few months, was too ill to be with her.
+Benjamin Constant spent a night of mourning in
+her death-chamber. They buried her at Coppet
+amid general lamentations.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a><br />
+
+<small>THE REVOLUTION</small></h2>
+
+
+<p>At Lausanne, as at Geneva, the thunders of the
+French Revolution echoed. Gibbon heard them,
+and was alarmed, as if at the approach of the end of
+the world. The patriots of Vaud heard them, and
+rejoiced at the hope of a new era about to be begun.
+Their Excellencies of Berne felt the edifice of their
+dominion crumbling about their ears. The burghers
+of Morges began the trouble by disinterring from
+their archives an old charter, on the strength of
+which they refused to pay for the mending of
+the roads, while a pastor named Martin exhorted
+his congregation to withhold the tithe that was
+levied on potatoes. Then a fête was held at Rolle
+to celebrate the anniversary of the fall of the
+Bastille, and 6,000 Bernese invaded the country,
+arrested the ringleaders, and compelled the magistrates
+to swear allegiance at the point of the
+bayonet. César Laharpe and J. J. Cart appealed
+to the French to intervene.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At first the French hesitated. Robespierre was
+not ambitious of foreign conquests, having his
+hands full enough at home, but the Directorate
+took larger views. Switzerland was reputed to be
+rich—and <i lang="de" xml:lang="de">was für plunder</i>! A division of the
+army of Italy crossed the lake on January 28, 1798,
+and took possession of Lausanne. For a space
+there was civil war. Vaudois volunteers fought
+under their green flag, while a certain Loyal Legion,
+under Colonel de Rovéreaz, distinguished itself at
+Fraubrunnen, in defence of Berne. The French,
+however, were so much stronger than the Bernese
+that the issue could not long remain in doubt. It
+was the Swiss money that the French wanted, and
+the gold found in the vaults of the Treasury of
+Berne was carried off to Paris, while the Canton of
+Vaud was accorded a new and independent constitution.</p>
+
+<p><a name="i_121" id="i_121"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_121.jpg" width="600" height="348" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>THE RHONE VALLEY FROM
+MONT PELERIN</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>There were other revolutions, and revisions,
+and reconstructions to follow. When the Holy
+Alliance remodelled the map of Europe in 1815,
+the fate of Vaud, like that of so many other minor
+nationalities, hung in the balance. The Bernese
+fully expected to be allowed to re-establish their
+dominion; but Alexander I., prompted by Laharpe,
+prevented them. 'You have done a great deal for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span>
+me,' the Emperor is reported to have said to the
+Liberator. 'What can I do for you?' And the
+Liberator's answer was: 'Sire, all that I ask is
+permission to speak to your Majesty of my country
+whenever I wish.' He spoke in 1815, and the
+Emperor listened; and the claims of Berne were
+rejected; and Laharpe took a house at Lausanne,
+and looked down on the scene of his triumphs, and
+fought his battles over again, and frequented
+Madame de Staël, whom in more stormy days he
+had written of as '<span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">une infernale gueuse</span>,' and was
+reverenced by all as the 'Grand Old Man' of the
+Canton.</p>
+
+<p>There were further political changes in 1830, in
+1845, and in 1861; but of these we need not speak.
+Their interest is no more than local. What the
+English traveller chiefly sees in the Lausanne of
+the nineteenth century is an increasing English
+colony, and the loudly vaunted educational facilities.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</a><br />
+
+<small>THE ENGLISH COLONY—THE EDUCATIONAL
+ADVANTAGES</small></h2>
+
+
+<p>Of the English colony there is not perhaps a
+great deal to be said, except that it fills two
+churches on Sundays, and at all times monopolizes
+the Ouchy road. It has never consisted of distinguished
+persons like the English colony at
+Florence; on the other hand, it has never included
+so large a proportion of disreputable persons as the
+English colonies at Brussels and Boulogne. Gibbon
+cannot be said to have belonged to it, since, in his
+day, it did not yet exist; and it can hardly claim
+Dickens, since his sojourn there was of comparatively
+brief duration. In the main it is composed of very
+young and rather elderly members of the respectable
+middle classes. There is an English club, and
+there are opportunities of playing bridge. The
+life is inexpensive, not because commodities are
+specially cheap, but because there are no wealthy
+residents to set extravagant standards. A small<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span>
+income goes a long way there; and the climate is
+salubrious for all those whose bronchial tubes are in
+a condition to resist the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">bise</i>.</p>
+
+<p>These are conditions which please a great many
+people—notably the wandering spinsters who 'live
+in their boxes,' and the retired officers and civil servants
+who have to subsist upon their pensions. At
+Lausanne they can economize without feeling the
+pinch of poverty, and without feeling envious—or
+perceiving that their wives feel envious—of more
+prosperous neighbours. The sunshine costs nothing,
+and the amusements cost very little; they can go
+about in knickerbockers and wear out their old
+clothes without fearing that their solvency will be
+suspected. There is no need for them to learn a
+foreign tongue, since they form their own society,
+and mix very little with the Swiss who accept
+them, but do not pretend to like them. They live
+lazily, but healthily, and, on the whole, contentedly.</p>
+
+<p>Of course, there is another side to the medal,
+and a price to be paid for the advantages. The
+colonists are exiles who have severed old ties, and
+have a difficulty in forming new ones. Their existence
+is rather animal than human, and rather vegetable
+than animal. They lose their energy and
+their intelligence; they are like plants no longer<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span>
+growing in a garden, but uprooted and flung upon
+the grass. A stranger finds it difficult to converse
+with them, and fancies that they must be terribly
+bored. Perhaps they are; but perhaps, too, it is
+better to be bored in the sunshine than busy in a
+London fog. So they linger on, persuading themselves
+that they do so for their children's sake
+rather than their own, and referring the stranger,
+if he happens to question them, to the wonderful
+educational advantages of the town.</p>
+
+<p>But what is the sober truth about those educational
+advantages? That is another branch of the
+subject which seems to be worth a passing word.</p>
+
+<p>Assuredly the Swiss have a great reputation as
+educators, and that reputation stands nowhere
+higher than in the Canton of Vaud. Yverdon is
+in the Canton of Vaud, and it was there that Pestalozzi
+kept his school. Moreover, just as it has
+been said that every citizen of Ticino is by nature
+a hotel-keeper, so it has been said that every citizen
+of Vaud is by nature a professor. Professors, as
+we have already seen, were among the Canton's
+chief 'articles of export' during the Bernese
+domination, and kings preferred the Vaudois professors
+to any others. Yet a sufficient number of
+professors—and perhaps the best of them—have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span>
+always remained behind, so that teaching and learning
+have continued to be great native industries.
+The question which is left is, How do the Swiss
+systems of education compare with ours?</p>
+
+<p>The answer is commonplace, and sounds platitudinous:
+they are better than ours in some respects,
+and inferior in others. Let us elaborate
+and particularize.</p>
+
+<p>Scholarship, in the accepted English sense of the
+word, hardly exists in Switzerland. A Swiss Jebb
+is almost unthinkable, and if anyone proposes to
+find a Swiss Bentley in Casaubon, the answer must
+be that Casaubon was not really Swiss, though he
+was, for a time, a professor at Geneva. In the
+matter of the classics the German scholars have
+always been more learned than the Swiss, and the
+English scholars have always been both more
+learned and more graceful; indeed, in the sort of
+scholarship which enables a man to speak and write
+his own language properly the Swiss have always
+been sadly to seek. Swiss French is atrocious, and
+the French of Lausanne, though a shade better than
+that of Fribourg, is worse than that of Geneva or
+Neuchâtel. When the French themselves wish to
+say that a man's style is clumsy, they liken it to 'a
+Swiss translation from the Belgian.'</p>
+
+<p><a name="i_131" id="i_131"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 329px;">
+<img src="images/i_131.jpg" width="329" height="600" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>A STREET IN ST. SAPHORIN</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Nor have the Swiss ever made any notable contribution
+to original philosophic thought. Their
+principal metaphysicians, like Charles Bonnet, have
+been merely theologians in disguise, who have
+started by assuming the points which they undertook
+to prove, and have been unable to keep their
+metaphysics and their theology apart, as did, for
+example, Bishop Berkeley and Dean Mansell. The
+great names in the history of speculative thought—such
+names as those of Spinoza, Locke, Hume,
+Kant, Hegel, Comte, Herbert Spencer, and T. H.
+Green—have been English, or German, or French,
+or Dutch. One does not find a single Swiss name
+among them. The great Swiss names, when we
+get away from theology, all stand for something
+scientific, practical, concrete. Lavater, Gesner,
+Saussure, Jomini—such are a few of the instances
+that may be cited to point our moral and lead us
+up to our generalization, which is as follows:</p>
+
+<p>Elementary education is excellent in Switzerland;
+but the higher education is too technical and
+utilitarian to satisfy those who consider that the
+function of education is to cultivate the mind.
+The elementary schools of the Canton of Vaud are
+probably better than those of the County of London;
+but the Universities of Geneva and Lausanne are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span>
+a poor substitute for those of Oxford and Cambridge.</p>
+
+<p>Let us by all means give praise where praise is
+due. The Medical Faculties of Berne and Lausanne
+have a European reputation; and it is said that
+engineering is nowhere taught better than at the
+Zurich Polytechnic. The practical side of the Swiss
+character is also well exemplified in the various
+schools for waiters, for watch-makers, and for bee-keepers.
+But it is possible—or it seems so to an
+English University man—for education to be too
+practical; and the Swiss have surely committed
+that excess in devising that educational abomination,
+the School of Commerce. Nothing is ever
+taught in a School of Commerce that a man who
+has been properly educated elsewhere cannot pick
+up in six weeks; and the curriculum, though it
+may sharpen the wits, can only, at the best, produce
+a superior kind of bagman.</p>
+
+<p>Swiss education, therefore, has its drawbacks
+even for a Switzer; and, for a young Englishman
+of the better class, it has other drawbacks in addition.
+It is not merely that he learns less than he would
+in England because an unfamiliar language is the
+medium of instruction. He also acquires the wrong
+tone and the wrong manner, misses opportunities<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span>
+of making useful friends, and finds himself, when
+he grows up, a stranger in his own country—a
+stranger not only to the people, but to the ways
+and modes of thought. That is a disadvantage
+which was pointed out as long ago as the eighteenth
+century, by Dr. John Moore, when a nobleman
+who had thought of sending his son to the
+University of Geneva asked his advice on the
+subject. 'The boy would return,' said the doctor,
+'a kind of a Frenchman, and would so be disqualified
+for success in English life.'</p>
+
+<p>The same criticism still applies. We are better
+cosmopolitans nowadays than were Dr. Moore's
+contemporaries, but the differences between the
+nations still subsist; and, just as each nation has
+the system of education which it deserves, so it has
+the system of education which best prepares a man
+to fight the battle of life in his own country. In
+England, more than in any other country, success
+depends comparatively little upon book-learning,
+and very much upon character and the possession
+of certain qualities which, in our insular pride, we
+vaunt as specially 'British.' These qualities are
+not to be acquired in the Swiss schools. The
+qualities that are to be acquired there may, in
+some respects, be better and more solid; but they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span>
+are not so useful in Great Britain. An English boy
+educated in a Swiss school is, as a rule, when he
+leaves, rather a clumsy lout, with a smattering of
+bad French, emancipated from certain prejudices
+which might be useful to him, but steeped in other
+prejudices which are likely to stand in his way.
+One always has the feeling that more might have
+been made of him at home: not merely at Eton
+or Harrow, but at Clifton or Marlborough, or even
+at St. Paul's or the Bedford Grammar School.</p>
+
+<p>On the whole, therefore, the educational <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">raison
+d'être</i> of the English colony at Lausanne disappears
+under investigation—at any rate, so far as the boys
+are concerned. The girls, from a certain point of
+view, may be better off there; for the Swiss girls'
+schools are good, and the snobbishness which is the
+vice of English girls' schools is discouraged in them.
+For the girls, difficulties only arise when they
+reach a marriageable age. There are no husbands
+for them at Lausanne, or anywhere in Switzerland,
+unless it be at Montreux, where Anglo-Indians
+sometimes come on leave, since all the men whom
+they meet—one is speaking only of their own
+countrymen—are either too young or too old—mere
+students, or else superannuated veterans.
+They know it, and lament their lot aloud; and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span>
+the Swiss know it, too, and make remarks. The
+English colony at Lausanne, they say, is <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">une vraie
+pépinière de vieilles filles</i>.</p>
+
+<p>But this is an excursus. We must return to
+Lausanne, and take another look at its social and
+intellectual life.</p>
+
+<p><a name="i_141" id="i_141"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_141.jpg" width="600" height="367" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>THE DENTS DU MIDI AND LA TOUR
+FROM "ENTRE DEUX VILLES"</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span></p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a><br />
+
+<small>VINET AND SAINTE-BEUVE—JUSTE OLIVIER</small></h2>
+
+
+<p>The centre of the intellectual life was always the
+University. It could not be otherwise in a country in
+which every man is born a pedagogue. In England
+the view has come to prevail that literature only
+begins to be vital when it ceases to be academic.
+In the Canton of Vaud the literature is academic
+or nothing, and even the poets are professors,
+unbending in their hours of sentimental ease; while
+the literature of revolt is the bitter cry of professors
+who have forfeited their chairs on account of their
+religious or political opinions. As the result of
+each revolution in turn we see a company of
+professors put to flight. The casualties of that sort
+are at least as numerous as the broken heads.</p>
+
+<p>The detailed relation of such professorial vicissitudes
+belongs, however, to the native antiquary.
+Here it will suffice to recall a few more notable
+names.</p>
+
+<p>A Swiss historian would doubtless say that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span>
+greatest of the names is that of Alexandre Vinet.
+In his hot youth he wrote riotous poetry:</p>
+
+<div class="cpoem" lang="fr" xml:lang="fr"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">'O mes amis, vidons bouteille<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Et laissons faire le destin.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Le Dieu qui préside à la treille<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Est notre unique souverain.'<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Afterwards he became austere, and played a
+great part in theological controversy. He hated
+the Revivalists, whom he described as 'lunatics at
+large'; but he insisted that religious liberty should
+be the heritage of all, and, while opposing established
+churches, exercised a profound spiritual
+influence. He was a great Broad Churchman, and
+we may class him as the F. W. Robertson or
+F. D. Maurice of the Canton of Vaud. Sainte-Beuve
+blew his trumpet, and he, on his part,
+almost persuaded Sainte-Beuve to become a Protestant.</p>
+
+<p>Sainte-Beuve, it is hardly too much to say,
+came to Lausanne in search of a religion. St.
+Simonism had disappointed him, and so had the
+Liberal Catholicism of Lamennais. Lamennais,
+in fact, had gone too fast and too far for him—had,
+as it were, he said, taken him for a drive, and spilt
+him in a ditch, and left him there and driven on.
+None the less, he earnestly desired to be spiritually-minded<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span>
+and a devout believer, feeling, in particular,
+an inclination towards mysticism, though unable
+to profess himself a mystic. 'I have,' he wrote to
+a friend, 'the sense of these things, but not the
+things themselves.' It seemed to him that he
+might find 'the things themselves' at Lausanne,
+if he went there in the proper spirit and sat at
+Vinet's feet.</p>
+
+<p>His Swiss friend, Juste Olivier, a professor who
+was also a poet, procured him an engagement to
+deliver a course of lectures at the Lausanne
+Academy,<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> and he embarked upon his errand with
+as much humility as was compatible with professorship.
+Left free to choose his own subject, he
+decided to treat of Port Royal and the Jansenists—the
+most spiritually-minded of the Catholics, and
+those who had the closest affinity with the Protestants.
+By means of his lectures he thought to
+build himself a bridge by which to pass from the
+one camp to the other.</p>
+
+<p>His elocution was defective, and his lectures
+were not quite such a success as he could have
+wished. The students used to meet in the cafés
+to parody them in the evenings. On the other
+hand, however, serious people eagerly watched the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span>developments of the spiritual drama. Not only
+did it seem to them that the fate of a soul was in
+the balance—they were also hoping to see Protestantism
+score the sort of triumph that would
+make a noise in Paris. So they asked daily for
+news of Sainte-Beuve, as of a sick man lying at
+death's door, and asked Vinet, whom they regarded
+as his spiritual physician, to issue a bulletin. And
+Vinet's bulletin was to this effect: 'I think he is
+convinced, but not yet converted.' But Vinet, as
+he was soon to discover, was only partly right.</p>
+
+<p>That Sainte-Beuve was not converted was, indeed,
+obvious enough, seeing that he was making
+violent love to his neighbour's wife at the time—between
+him and 'conversion' stood the obstructive
+charms of Madame Olivier. But it is equally
+true that he was not convinced; and, by a crowning
+irony, he found his faith evaporating as he got
+to close quarters with the subject, through the
+study of which he had expected to achieve conviction.
+The great history of Port Royal, begun by
+a believer, was finished by a sceptic. 'Moral bankruptcy,'
+is M. Michaut's description of his condition,
+and there is a sense in which it might be applied
+even by those who desire to dissociate morality
+from creeds. It was the end—at any rate, for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span>
+Sainte-Beuve—of all emotion which was not either
+purely sensual or purely intellectual. He could
+not be a mystic, as he could not be a poet, because
+he lacked the necessary genius; and forms of
+religion which depended, not on intuition, but on
+authority, were repugnant to his sane intelligence.
+So he said a sad farewell to Christianity, and sought
+no substitute. 'I am mournfully looking on at
+the death of my heart,' he wrote to Vinet; and he
+went away and resigned himself to become a
+materialist, a voluptuary, and a critic.</p>
+
+<p>And now a word about that Juste Olivier to
+whom Sainte-Beuve owed his appointment, and to
+whose wife Sainte-Beuve made love. The poet
+and the critic had met at Paris, where Olivier had
+gone to prepare himself for the Chair of Literature
+at Neuchâtel. He was promoted, three years later,
+to the Chair of History at Lausanne, which he
+occupied for twelve years, acting also, during part
+of the time, as editor of the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Revue Suisse</i>, to which
+Sainte-Beuve contributed. The Revolution of
+1845 unseated him. He went to Paris, where he
+achieved no great success, and was homesick there
+for five-and-twenty years. The Swiss forgot him,
+and the Parisians did not understand him. But,
+in 1870, when there was no longer a living to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span>
+made in Paris, he came home again. One may
+quote the pathetic picture of his home-coming,
+drawn by M. Philippe Godet:</p>
+
+<p>'He had to live. For three winters the poet
+travelled through French Switzerland, lecturing,
+reading his verses, relating his reminiscences, with
+that melancholy humour which gave his speech its
+charm. The public—I speak of what I saw—was
+polite, respectful, and nothing more. Olivier felt
+almost a stranger in his own country. But he
+consoled himself, in the summer, at Gryon, "the
+high village facing the Alps of Vaud," which he
+has so often celebrated. He was to sing, at the
+mid-August fête, his song to the Shepherds of
+Anzeindaz. And there they understood him and
+applauded. He had his day of happiness and
+glory among these simple mountaineers. He was,
+for an hour, what it had been the dream of his life
+to be, the national singer of the Vaudois country.'</p>
+
+<p>But the end is melancholy. He died in a chalet
+at Gryon in January, 1876, a broken and disappointed
+man, reluctant even to speak of his work
+or hear it spoken of. There is a deep pathos in
+one of his last letters which M. Godet quotes:</p>
+
+<p>'It is a melancholy history—that of our country.
+It did nothing for Viret or Vinet; and, though I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span>
+do not rank myself with them, I too know what
+neglect means. "Come and have a drink"—that
+is their last word here. I had hoped for better
+things. What a beautiful dream it was! At least
+I have been loyal to it, even if I have not, as
+I fancy, done all that it was in me to do. Since
+the day when, in one of my first printed poems,
+I wrote, "Un génie est caché dans tous les lieux
+que j'aime," I have obstinately sought out that
+genius, and tried to make it speak. It has answered
+me, I think more often than its voice has been
+heard.'</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><a name="i_151" id="i_151"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_151.jpg" width="600" height="450" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>LUTRY</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</a><br />
+
+<small>NYON</small></h2>
+
+
+<p>Lausanne, for the purposes of this volume, must be
+taken to include such neighbouring lake-side towns
+as Morges, and Rolle, and Nyon. Morges we have
+already seen distinguishing itself by refusing, on
+principle, to pay for the mending of the roads, and
+so paving the way for the subsequent insurrection.
+Nowadays it is the seat of an arsenal, and is said to
+have an aristocratic population, interested in literature.
+Rolle was the home of the Laharpes, and
+boasts a statue of César de Laharpe by Pradier. A
+colony of French and Genevan political exiles
+once flourished there, and Madame de Staël was a
+frequent visitor. Voltaire once proposed to buy an
+estate in the neighbourhood—the Château des
+Menthon—but the Bernese would not let him do
+so, alleging the curious reason that the philosopher
+was a Roman Catholic. Nyon is the dirtiest town
+on the Lake—or would be if Villeneuve were not
+dirtier. But it is also one of the most picturesque—the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span>
+castle being nobly situated and in a fine state
+of preservation—and it has its interesting memories.</p>
+
+<p>One of its interesting associations is with the
+Waldenses. These persecuted Protestants had
+fled, or been driven out, from their mountain home
+above Turin. Switzerland received them hospitably,
+but they were homesick. They resolved to go
+back; not to slink back in twos and threes, but to
+march back, with their flags flying, like courageous
+Christian soldiers. They mustered at Nyon, and
+thence crossed the lake under the leadership of
+the fighting pastor, Henri Arnaud, and marched
+across the mountains to effect their 'glorious re-entry.'
+It was a great military feat, and no less
+a judge than Napoleon has paid his tribute to
+the military genius of the commander. The returning
+exiles defeated the soldiers of Savoy in
+more than one pitched battle. One thinks of them
+generally as the 'slaughtered saints, whose bones'
+inspired one of the finest of Milton's sonnets, but
+theirs were not the only bones that whitened the
+valleys during that notable expedition.</p>
+
+<p>Nyon again recalls the memory of Bonstetten,
+who governed it for a season on behalf of Berne.
+If all the Bernese Governors had been like him,
+Vaud would have been a contented country, though<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span>
+he is chiefly remembered as a wit and a man of
+culture, who lived to be eighty-seven without ever
+seeming to grow old. In his youth he travelled in
+England, and was the friend of Gray; in his old age
+he lived at Geneva, and was the friend of Byron.
+In the meantime he had been the friend of
+Madame de Staël, and a pillar of the cosmopolitan
+society at Coppet. He wrote some books, but they
+are dead and buried. What lives is the recollection
+of the genial old gentleman whom everybody liked,
+and who proved—what needed a great deal of
+proving—that it was possible for a Bernese to be
+gracious and frivolous, and to have a sense of
+humour. He detested the society of his native
+city, and wrote a delightfully sarcastic description
+of its daily life in a letter to one of the Hallers:</p>
+
+<p>'We are living here, as we always do. We sleep,
+we breakfast, we yawn, we drag through the morning,
+and we digest our food. And then we dine,
+and then we dress, and then we swagger in the
+Arcades, and say to ourselves: "I am charming and
+clever, for the spelling of my name makes me
+capable of governing and illuminating two hundred
+thousand souls." And then we accost a lady with a
+pretty figure decently enveloped in a mantle, and
+then we go to a party and circle round a dozen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span>
+turtle-doves, and deliver ourselves of platitudes
+with the air of saying something clever. Then we
+have something to eat, and, finding our intellectual
+resources exhausted, amuse ourselves with paper
+games; and then we go to bed, feeling satisfied with
+ourselves—for we have been delightful.'</p>
+
+<p>Out of sympathy with Berne, Bonstetten had a
+good deal more sympathy than Berne liked with
+the revolutionary party. It is said that his sympathies
+lost him his post; but before that happened
+he had time to render a useful service to one of the
+most eminent of the revolutionists. He was at
+supper one day with a considerable number of
+guests when his servant whispered in his ear that a
+mysterious stranger was without, asking to speak
+with him. He stepped into the garden, where a
+man, miserably dressed, was waiting for him in the
+summer-house. He inquired his errand, and the
+answer was: 'I am Carnot, and I am perishing
+from hunger. I implore you to give me shelter for
+the night.' Bonstetten not only gave him shelter
+for the night, but, on the following morning, gave
+him a passport under an assumed name. One can
+understand that his superiors at Berne did not
+regard him as a model functionary, but Carnot
+never forgot his kindness. When he became<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span>
+Napoleon's War Minister, he invited him to Paris,
+introduced him to the Emperor, and heaped proofs
+of his gratitude upon him.</p>
+
+<p><a name="i_161" id="i_161"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_161.jpg" width="600" height="333" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>CULLY FROM EPESSE: AUTUMN</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Perhaps it is also worth noting that, in the days
+before the railways, Nyon was on the highroad
+from France to Switzerland. The track descended
+there from Saint-Cergues, where it crossed the
+Jura; and by it travelled Madame de Staël, and
+Benjamin Constant, and Voltaire, and many another
+whom we have met in the course of this rambling
+narrative. There is a new road now, with wide,
+sweeping curves, and a gentle gradient; but enough
+of the old road remains to show us how shamefully
+bad it was—a narrow road, of uneven surface, plunging
+headlong through the pine-forest. The lumbering
+old coaches, with their six horses, must have
+had a very bad time there, and it is no wonder
+that Napoleon ordered a road to be made over the
+Col de la Faucille to supersede it.</p>
+
+<p>But enough of Nyon and the Canton de Vaud!
+We must cross the lake to the French shore; and,
+as first impressions are always the most graphic,
+permission has been obtained to print here the
+writer's own first impressions, contributed a few
+years since, to the columns of the <i>Pall Mall
+Gazette</i>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span></p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</a><br />
+
+<small>THE FRENCH SHORE</small></h2>
+
+
+<p>What strikes the holiday traveller about the
+French shore is that it is so much better managed
+than the Swiss shore. Its natural advantages are
+fewer—they are, in fact, very few indeed. Evian—and
+when one speaks of the French shore one is
+principally thinking of Evian—stands with its back
+to the high mountains instead of facing them.
+Consequently it has no views to compare with the
+views from Lausanne, Geneva, and Vevey. Its
+hinterland is commonplace, except for those
+who make a great effort and go up the Dent
+d'Oche. The mouth of the Dranse, hard by, is a
+dreary collection of detritus. There are hardly any
+literary landmarks, except the few that recall the
+memory of St. Francis de Sales. Whence English
+travellers have, almost with one accord, drawn the
+inference that it is not worth while to go to Evian.
+But they are wrong. The French think otherwise,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span>
+and the French are right. They do not go there,
+as some suppose, because they are crippled with
+diseases and need the waters to wash poisons out
+of their blood and their organs: the Evian water is
+the sort of water that the whole, as well as the sick,
+can drink by the bucketful without feeling a penny
+the worse for it. Their purpose in going to Evian
+is to live a life of luxury and leisure. No doubt
+they pay through the nose for the privilege. Inquiry
+at one hotel elicited the statement that the worst
+rooms were let at eight and the best at eighty francs
+a day—with service <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">à la carte</i> on the same scale.
+But other hotels are cheaper, and it is also possible
+to hire a villa, a flat, a lodging; and, in any case,
+it is right that Evian should be introduced to the
+English tourist as the one place on the Lake of
+Geneva in which the life of leisure and luxury is
+possible.</p>
+
+<p>There is no real luxury at Geneva itself, though
+there are high prices and immense hotels. Instead
+of having good music at fixed hours, they
+have indifferent music all day long. The whole
+air is full of a continual tinkle-tinkle; louder than
+the tinkle-tinkle rises the hooting of the steamers
+and the trams; louder still are the voices of the
+trippers, mostly Americans, inquiring the prices of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>
+things, or complaining that they have lost their
+luggage. The society at the boasted Kursaal is an
+unpolished horde, mainly composed of the Geneva
+clerks and shop-assistants losing their salaries at
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">petits chevaux</i>. Nor are things much better elsewhere
+on the Swiss shore. Nyon, for instance, is
+by nature an earthly paradise, and they have formed
+a society for developing it. What they really want
+is a society for cleaning it, since it is the present
+practice of the inhabitants to empty their dustbins
+over their garden walls into the lake, with
+results appalling to the nostrils of the stranger.
+At Lausanne, or Vevey, or Montreux—other
+earthly paradises—you escape this nuisance; but
+even there, in the season, you have the feeling that
+the place is one vast hotel, and that everybody is
+waiting with packed boxes for the omnibus. But
+cross to Evian. The town is a little smaller than
+Montreux, but just as full. Yet it never seems to
+be crowded. There is no hurrying or bustling.
+You are in nobody's way, and nobody is in your
+way; which means that Evian is properly
+managed.</p>
+
+<p>They do not encourage you to come to Evian in
+the capacity of tripper. On the contrary, they try
+to arrange things so that you must sacrifice your<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span>
+lunch in order to get there, and your dinner in
+order to get home. But this is a part of the secret
+of good management, as you will appreciate if you
+stay there. No knickerbockered army, headed by
+a polyglot guide in a straw hat with a label on it,
+will invade your peace, but you will be free to live
+your lotus-eating life in your own way. You will
+probably live most of it in the casino, which is a
+proper casino, differing from the Geneva Kursaal
+as cheese from chalk. There is so much shade that
+it is always cool there, even on the hottest day.
+You will lunch there on a shaded terrace, assisted
+by a sympathetic waiter, who understands that a
+good lunch is an end in itself, and not merely a
+device for keeping body and soul together until the
+evening. You will linger long and agreeably over
+the coffee and liqueurs, without feeling that someone
+else wants your seat. Nor will you be bothered,
+as in Geneva, by the squeaking of a futile fiddle, or
+by hawkers offering picture postcards. But, at the
+appointed hour, there will be a proper concert with
+a programme, and a well-behaved and well-dressed
+audience: beautiful French ladies looking as if they
+had stepped out of fashion plates; beautiful French
+children looking as if they had been cut out of
+Aunt Louisa's picture-book; fantastic Frenchmen,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span>
+looking as if they were dressed for amateur
+theatricals. Then, when the evening comes, and
+you have dined as well as you have lunched, there
+will be a performance in the little theatre, given by
+artistes from Paris, who come on to Evian from
+Aix-les-Bains: Réjane, Jeanne Granier, Charlotte
+Wiehe, or others. Or there will be a ball in
+the grand style—not in the least like the balls in
+the Hall-by-the-Sea at Margate—given in as good
+a ballroom as the heart of a dancer could wish for.
+But no hurrying, or hustling, or excitement. At
+Evian, if nowhere else on Lake Leman, life is a
+leisurely pageant.</p>
+
+<p><a name="i_171" id="i_171"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 404px;">
+<img src="images/i_171.jpg" width="404" height="600" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>GRANDVAUX FROM CULLY</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>For the rest, there is little enough for you to do—nothing,
+in fact, except to stroll up and down the
+long avenue of linked plane-trees by the lake-side,
+observe how clean they keep the water, and gaze
+across its calm surface to the Swiss shore where the
+trippers make a noise. But this has always been a
+favourite occupation of the dwellers on the French
+shore, whether in fact or works of fiction. From
+Meillerie St. Preux gazed across at the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">bosquet</i>
+of Clarens. From Thonon St. Francis de Sales
+gazed across, pondering plans for working the
+Counter-Reformation in the Canton de Vaud.
+From Evian itself, Madame de Warens gazed across,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span>
+regretting the home of her youth to which she
+could never return, because, when she left it, she
+had abandoned her religion, and taken with her
+certain goods and chattels which her creditors were
+about to seize.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</a><br />
+
+<small>HISTORY OF THE FRENCH SHORE—FELIX V</small></h2>
+
+
+<p>The history of the French shore, which has only
+recently belonged to France, may be told in briefest
+outline. In the earliest times of which we need
+take cognizance it belonged to the Dukes of Savoy,
+whose domains continued for a considerable distance
+up the valley of the Rhone. Then came the war
+of 1536, of which we have spoken more than once,
+in which the Bernese took the territory away from
+them. Part of it was recovered by Duke Emanuel
+Philibert in 1564, and the whole was reassigned by
+treaty in 1593. The inhabitants had, in the meantime,
+been converted to Protestantism, and the first
+task of Savoy was to reconvert them. A mission
+for that purpose was led by St. Francis de Sales,
+and the principles of the Counter-Reformation
+quickly triumphed. The French Revolution
+brought a French army to Savoy, but the expelled
+rulers came to their own again when the Holy
+Alliance resettled the map of Europe. Nothing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span>
+further happened until the war which resulted in
+the consolidation of a United Italy. Savoy (together
+with Nice) was then Napoleon III.'s reward
+for ejecting the Austrian garrison from Italian
+territory. The country had long been French in
+its language and its sympathies, and the people
+were quite willing, if not actively anxious, to
+change their allegiance; and the history of Savoy
+has, since that date, belonged to the history of
+France. Its extreme Catholicism, like that of
+Brittany, gave trouble at the time of the expulsion
+of the Religious Orders, but that is a question of
+modern politics into which it is unnecessary to
+enter here. We will search instead for the historical
+and literary landmarks.</p>
+
+<p>Our first interesting name is that of Duke
+Amadeus VIII. The death of his eldest son
+caused him profound grief, and 'in 1431,' says
+Bishop Creighton, 'he retired from active life,
+and built himself a luxurious retreat at Ripaille,
+whither he withdrew with seven companions
+to lead a life of religious seclusion. His abode
+was called the Temple of St. Maurice; he and
+his followers wore grey cloaks, like hermits, with
+gold crosses round their necks and long staffs
+in their hands.' But though Duke Amadeus<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span>
+dressed as a hermit, he hardly lived as one; and as
+for religious seclusion, he interpreted it after a
+fashion of his own. 'Vitam magis voluptuosam
+quam penitentialem degebat,' is the statement of
+his biographer, Æneas Sylvius; and his jovial proceedings
+added to the French language the new
+expression 'faire Ripaille.'</p>
+
+<p>Those were the days, however, when the Council
+of Basle accused Pope Eugenius IV. of heresy and
+schism. An Opposition Pope was wanted, and the
+Council decided to offer the dignity to the ducal
+hermit, who was living a voluptuous rather than a
+penitential life. A deputation was sent to wait
+upon him at Ripaille. Amadeus, with his hermit
+companions, advanced to meet the visitors, with a
+cross borne before him, and discussed the proposal
+in a thoroughly business-like spirit. 'What,' he
+asked, 'do you expect the Pope to live on? I
+cannot consume my patrimony and disinherit my
+sons.' He was promised a grant of first-fruits of
+vacant benefices, and that satisfied him, though he
+made the further stipulation that he should not be
+required to shave. As a matter of fact, however,
+he was presently shamed into shaving by the
+respectful amazement of the devout; and he
+took the name of Felix V. and entered Basle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span>
+attended by his two sons—'an unusual escort for
+a Pope,' as Creighton justly remarks—and was
+crowned by the Cardinal of Aries, the only Cardinal
+present, on July 24, 1440.</p>
+
+<p>The question then arose, Which Pope would be
+recognized by the other European Principalities
+and Powers? By degrees it was found that the
+balance of opinion was against Felix V., and in
+favour of Eugenius IV. and his successor Nicolas V.;
+and Felix V. then discovered that he did not greatly
+care about his somewhat shadowy honours. He
+had had much anxiety, and only a small and
+irregular stipend. So, on April 7, 1449, he was
+persuaded to resign the Papal office, and less than
+two years afterwards he died. 'He was more
+useful to the Church by his death than by his life,'
+says Æneas Sylvius. But that is as it may be.
+He was, at all events, an interesting figure and a
+better man than Æneas himself, seeing that Æneas,
+afterwards Pius II., candidly confessed that he was
+'neither holier than David nor wiser than Solomon,'
+and actually wrote love-letters to help Sigismund,
+Count of Tyrol, 'to overcome the resistance of
+a girl who shrank from his dishonourable proposals.'</p>
+
+<p><a name="i_181" id="i_181"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i_181.jpg" width="600" height="361" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>THE RHONE VALLEY FROM CHEXBRES</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</a><br />
+
+<small>ST. FRANCIS DE SALES</small></h2>
+
+
+<p>A greater figure—perhaps the greatest of all
+figures in the history of Savoy—is that of St.
+Francis de Sales. It is a little difficult to speak of
+him without appearing to stir the embers of theological
+disputation. But the effort must be made,
+since he is much too notable a man to be passed
+over; and the task may be made easier by the fact
+that he is a Catholic of whom Protestants speak
+well, even though they have to recognize in him
+one of the most damaging of their opponents.
+They respect his character even in the act of
+examining his propositions; they perceive that it
+was just because his character was so admirable
+that he was able to do the cause of the Reformation
+so much harm.</p>
+
+<p>He combined qualities which, in that age, were
+rarely found conjoined, being at once a gentleman
+and a scholar, a man of saintly humility, and yet
+of energy and courage. Such men were scarce in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span>
+both religious camps. The Reformers had their
+share of virile vigour, and the best of them were
+among the most learned men of their time; but, on
+the whole, they lacked good manners and 'sweet
+reasonableness.' Their methods were often violent,
+and their speech was often coarse. They upset
+altars and smashed stained-glass windows, and threw
+sacred images into the rivers, and, as we have seen,
+'crowned Roman Catholic priests with cow-dung.'
+Their vocabulary, too, was scurrilous, as was natural,
+seeing that many of them had risen to eminence in
+their church from some very humble rank in life.
+They lacked the grand style in theology, and one
+could find excuses for calling them vulgarians.</p>
+
+<p>No doubt there was more of the grand style
+among their Catholic opponents, but they also fell
+short in many ways of the Christian ideal. Many
+of them were dissolute debauchees. The case of
+Æneas Sylvius, already cited, shows that the most
+cynical immorality was not incompatible with the
+highest ecclesiastical advancement, and, indeed, it
+is notorious that the loose lives of ecclesiastical
+dignitaries did more than their unscriptural doctrines
+to discredit the Church of Rome and make
+the Reformation possible. There were prelates of
+whom it could truly be said that they spared<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span>
+neither men in their anger nor women in their lust;
+and even among those whose reputation was
+sweeter, there were a good many who would have
+passed a very bad quarter of an hour if haled before
+Calvin's Consistory and cross-examined. Even if
+they had passed the moral standards, they would
+have been found guilty of luxury and arrogance.
+They were unduly addicted to purple and fine
+linen, and made no pretence to live a simple
+life.</p>
+
+<p>On each side, however, there were exceptions,
+exempt from the characteristic faults of their
+parties, and these, even in that age of vehement
+polemics, were able to recognize and appreciate
+one another. On the Protestant side there was
+M. de Bèze—the 'gentleman reformer,' as he has
+been called—who, drawing a useful inspiration from
+the memories of his unregenerate days, was able to
+speak affably with his enemies in the gate. On
+the Catholic side there was St. Francis de Sales,
+whom the study of the Humane Letters had indeed
+humanized, who was transparently sincere, and
+who, by the charm of his character, disarmed
+antagonism. In an age in which men of all religious
+opinions (and of none) lived in daily peril
+of torture and the stake, each of these two men<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span>
+believed that the other was honestly mistaken, and
+would have liked to be his friend.</p>
+
+<p>Judged by the historical results of his principal
+achievement, St. Francis can hardly escape condemnation
+as a maker of mischief and a stirrer-up
+of strife. To him, and to him alone, was due the
+triumph of the Counter-Reformation in Chablais.
+If he had declined that missionary enterprise, or
+failed in it, the Duke of Savoy would not have
+been encouraged to make the treacherous attempt
+upon Genevan independence known as the Escalade.
+That plot was actually laid at Thonon, at a
+meeting held to celebrate and rejoice over St.
+Francis de Sales' apostolic achievements. He must
+have known of it; he was in a position to protest
+against it; he does not appear to have done anything
+of the kind. It went forward, and Spanish
+soldiers were hired to cut Genevan throats in the
+name of the Church of St. Peter. There we have
+cause and effect—a saintly man interfering with
+freedom of thought, and so bringing, not peace, but
+a sword.</p>
+
+<p>That is the summing-up of the matter which
+impartial logic compels; but, somehow or other, it
+does not much interfere with the friendliness of
+one's feelings towards St. Francis de Sales. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span>
+rude logic of events did not correspond to any
+syllogism in his mind. The narrowness of his outlook
+was that of his country and his age; the
+sweetness of his temper was his own. He loved
+his erring brothers, as he considered them, and his
+concern was for the salvation of their souls. He
+did disinterestedly, and at great personal sacrifice,
+the duty which he conceived to lie nearest to him;
+he did it like a soldier, who must not reason why,
+and with a serene and lofty courage.</p>
+
+<p>The courage of missionaries has often, it is true,
+been the subject of exaggerated eulogy. Courage
+is no uncommon human quality; and it is doubtful
+whether good men are, on an average, any braver
+than bad men. It is not only the soldier who, as a
+matter of course, takes risks quite equal to those of
+the missionary. The brigand, the highwayman,
+and the beach-comber, to say nothing of the
+terrorist, who is generally an atheist, also do so;
+and, these things being so, much of the talk about
+the heroism of Christian heroes is almost indecently
+vainglorious. Yet, even when all the necessary
+deductions have been made, there remains something
+singularly fascinating in the courage of
+St. Francis de Sales.</p>
+
+<p>He was not by nature pugnacious, as was, for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span>
+example, Farel, who took an Irishman's delight in
+a row, and considered that it was all in the day's
+work when he was fustigated by women, or dragged
+up and down the floor of a church by the beard.
+His tastes, on the contrary, were refined, and his
+inclinations were for the life of the cloister or the
+study. He went into the wilds of Chablais—and
+it was really a wild country in those days—because
+he had been called and chosen, and because there
+was work to be done there which he was considered
+specially capable of doing. Men with guns took
+pot-shots at him in the dark places of the forests;
+and he once spent a whole winter's night in a
+tree-top, while a pack of hungry wolves howled
+at him from below. Such adventures were repugnant
+to his gentle and sensitive nature; but
+he faced them and persevered, year after year,
+until at last his pertinacity was rewarded. More
+as a tribute to his unique personality than to his
+arguments—which, of course, were only the commonplaces
+of Catholic apologetics—Chablais surrendered
+to the Church. Even though one wishes
+that Chablais had held out, one cannot help regarding
+its evangelist as a sympathetic figure. Pope
+Alexander VII. canonized him in 1665.</p>
+
+<p><a name="i_191" id="i_191"> </a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 371px;">
+<img src="images/i_191.jpg" width="371" height="600" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p>THE CHURCH OF ST. MARTIN, VEVEY</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</a><br />
+
+<small>JOSEPH DE MAISTRE</small></h2>
+
+
+<p>St. Francis de Sales, was not only a missionary,
+but also a man of letters, and—especially—a
+patron of letters. Thirty years before Richelieu
+founded the French Academy, he founded the
+Florimontane Academy—with the motto <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Flores
+fructusque perennes</i>—in Savoy, and thus forged
+one of the links between the literature of Savoy
+and that of France. More than one great writer,
+whom we carelessly class as French, was really
+of Savoyard origin. Vaugelas, described by Sainte-Beuve
+'as the first of our correct and polished
+grammarians,' was the son of the Vaugelas who
+helped St. Francis de Sales in the formation of
+his literary society at Annecy. St. Réal, the
+forerunner of Montesquieu, was also a Savoyard;
+and so were Count Xavier de Maistre, author of
+the widely-read 'Voyage Autour de ma Chambre,'
+and Count Joseph de Maistre, his more distinguished
+brother.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Joseph de Maistre, indeed, is the greatest of the
+literary sons of Savoy, and a worthy inheritor of the
+traditions of the saint, his predecessor. An aristocrat,
+and a senator, he was a man of forty when
+the revolutionary storm burst upon his country.
+For a season he took refuge in Lausanne, where he
+often met, and argued with, Madame de Staël,
+whom he regarded as a woman with a good heart
+but a perverted head. His discussions with her, he
+said, 'nearly made the Swiss die with laughing,
+though we conducted them without quarrelling.'
+Afterwards he was sent to represent his sovereign
+at the Court of St. Petersburg, where, he complains,
+he had to get on as best he could, 'without a
+salary, without a secretary, and without a fur-lined
+overcoat.' Both there and at Lausanne he
+wrote.</p>
+
+<p>His date and his circumstances class him with
+the literary <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">émigrés</i>—with Madame de Staël,
+Châteaubriand, and Sénancour; but he lacks their
+melancholy and their sentimentalism. He and
+Châteaubriand, indeed, resemble one another as
+two champions of the Catholic religion; but they
+support that religion from widely different points
+of view. Châteaubriand is before all things the
+religious æsthete. He deduces the truth of a creed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span>
+from its beauty, and is very little concerned with
+its bearing upon moral conduct. Joseph de Maistre,
+on the contrary, seems to believe in the authority
+of the Church because he believes in authority
+generally. He is an Absolutist who hates all
+Radicals, and regards the schismatic as the worst
+kind of Radical. He makes a religion of the principle
+of 'keeping people in their place,' and he supports
+his religion with epigrams. The epigrams are very
+good, though the religion is very bad. The French,
+like the sound critics that they are, have proved
+themselves capable of enjoying the one while
+refusing to have very much to do with the other.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span></p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX">INDEX</a></h2>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Alexander I., <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
+<li>Amadeus VIII., Duke, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li>
+<li>Arnaud, Henri, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Bèze, M. de, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
+<li>Bonivard, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+<li>Bonnet, Charles, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Bonstetten, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+<li>Bridel, Doyen, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+<li>Bridel, Louis, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+<li>'Buonaparte,' <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
+<li>Byron, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Calvin, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
+<li>Carnot, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+<li>Cart, C. C., <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+<li>Casaubon, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
+<li>Charrière, Madame de, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
+<li>Châteaubriand, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li>
+<li>Constant de Rebecque, Benjamin, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+<li>Constant, Rosalie de, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
+<li>Coppet, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>Curchod, Mademoiselle Suzanne, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>D'Alembert, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
+<li>Davel, Major, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>Deffand, Madame du, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+<li>Dent d'Oche, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li>
+<li>Deyverdun, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+<li>Dickens, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li>
+<li>Dutertre, Madame, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>English Colony, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+<li>Eugenius IV., Pope, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li>
+<li>Evian, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Farel, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
+<li>Felix V., <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li>
+<li>Florimontane Academy, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li>
+<li>Fox, Charles James, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
+<li>Fraubrunnen, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Gesner, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Gibbon, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li>
+<li>Godet, M. Philippe, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Hardenberg, Madame de, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+<li>d'Haussonville, Monsieur, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Jomini, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Knox, John, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Laharpe, César, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Lavater, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>'Lettres de Lausanne,' <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Ligne, Prince and Princesse de, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+<li>Lindsay, Mrs., <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Maistre, Count Joseph de, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li>
+<li>Maistre, Count Xavier de, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li>
+<li>Meillerie, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Mercier, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+<li>Michaut, M., <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li>Montolieu, Madame de, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+<li>Moore, Dr. John, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
+<li>Morges, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Moudon, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
+<li>Moultou, Pastor, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span></p>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Necker, Jacques, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+<li>Necker, Madame, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+<li>Necker, M., Madame, and Mademoiselle, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+<li>Nyon, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Olivier, Juste, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+<li>Olivier, Madame, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Pavilliard, Pastor, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
+<li>Peter of Savoy, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li>
+<li>Pestalozzi, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+<li>Philibert, Duke Emanuel, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Raynal, Abbé, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+<li><i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Revue Suisse</i>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+<li>Ripaille, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+<li>Robespierre, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
+<li>Rocca, Albert de, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+<li>Rolle, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li>Rousseau, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+<li>Rovéreaz, Colonel de, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Sainte-Beuve, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+<li>Saint-Cergues, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+<li>St. Francis de Sales, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li>
+<li>Saint-Pierre, Bernardin de, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
+<li>Saussure, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Schlegel, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>
+<li>Sénancour, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li>
+<li>Sheffield, Lord, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+<li>Staël, Madame de, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li>
+<li>Staël, M. de, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+<li>Sylvius, Æneas, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Talma, Madame, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+<li>Thonon, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li>
+<li>Tissot, Dr., <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Vinet, Alexandre, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li>Viret, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li>Voght, Baron de, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+<li>Voltaire, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+<li>Vulliemin, Louis, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Waldenses, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li>
+<li>Warens, Madame de, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Wurtemberg, Prince of, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Zaeringen, <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<p class="p2 center">
+BILLING AND SONS, LIMITED, PRINTERS, GUILFORD<br />
+</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes"><p class="center">FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Gibbon's acquaintance with Voltaire was only slight.
+<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Vidi tantum</i>, he writes.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Poems addressed to her by these young theologians may
+be found in defunct magazines and annuals.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> This is not quite accurate. The letter which M. d'Haussonville
+dates 1762 conveys a salutation to Pastor Curchod,
+who died in 1760. It must have been written, therefore, not
+in 1762, but in 1758 or 1759.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> She sheltered Madame de Genlis in her flight from the
+Revolution.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> By the present author in 'Madame de Staël and her
+Lovers.'</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> It has since been republished separately.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> Madame de Hardenberg, divorced and remarried.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> It was not made a University until later.</p></div></div>
+
+<p> </p>
+<p> </p>
+<hr class="full" />
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+Illustrated by J. Hardwicke Lewis and May Hardwicke Lewis
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Lausanne
+
+
+Author: Francis Henry Gribble
+
+
+
+Release Date: June 23, 2014 [eBook #46074]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LAUSANNE***
+
+
+E-text prepared by sp1nd, JoAnn Greenwood, and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made
+available by Internet Archive (https://archive.org)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+ file which includes the original illustrations in color.
+ See 46074-h.htm or 46074-h.zip:
+ (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/46074/46074-h/46074-h.htm)
+ or
+ (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/46074/46074-h.zip)
+
+
+ Images of the original pages are available through
+ Internet Archive. See
+ https://archive.org/details/lausanne00gribiala
+
+
+
+
+
+LAUSANNE
+
+
+ * * * * * *
+
+_UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME_
+
+
+MONTREUX
+
+ PAINTED BY J. HARDWICKE LEWIS AND
+ MAY HARDWICKE LEWIS
+
+ DESCRIBED BY FRANCIS GRIBBLE
+
+ Containing 20 full-page Illustrations in Colour and a
+ Sketch-Map.
+
+ Square Demy 8vo., cloth, gilt top
+ Price 7/6 net
+ (_Post free, price 7/11_)
+
+GENEVA
+
+ PAINTED BY J. HARDWICKE LEWIS AND
+ MAY HARDWICKE LEWIS
+
+ DESCRIBED BY FRANCIS GRIBBLE
+
+ Containing 20 full-page Illustrations and a
+ Sketch-Map.
+
+ Square Demy 8vo., cloth, gilt top
+ Price 7/6 net
+ (_Post free, price 7/11_)
+
+PUBLISHED BY A. AND C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.
+
+
+ * * * * * *
+
+AGENTS
+
+ AMERICA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
+ 64 & 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK
+
+ AUSTRALASIA OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS
+ 205 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE
+
+ CANADA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD.
+ 27 RICHMOND STREET WEST, TORONTO
+
+ INDIA MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD.
+ MACMILLAN BUILDING, BOMBAY
+ 309 BOW BAZAAR STREET, CALCUTTA
+
+ * * * * * *
+
+
+ [Illustration: LAUSANNE CATHEDRAL FROM MONTBENON]
+
+
+LAUSANNE
+
+Painted by
+
+J. HARDWICKE LEWIS & MAY HARDWICKE LEWIS
+
+Described by
+
+FRANCIS GRIBBLE
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Logo]
+
+London
+Adam and Charles Black
+1909
+
+
+
+
+Contents
+
+
+ PAGE
+ CHAPTER I
+ THE RULE OF SAVOY AND BERNE 1
+
+ CHAPTER II
+ EMIGRANTS AND IMMIGRANTS 11
+
+ CHAPTER III
+ GIBBON 15
+
+ CHAPTER IV
+ MADAME DE MONTOLIEU--DR. TISSOT 39
+
+ CHAPTER V
+ BENJAMIN CONSTANT AND MADAME DE STAEL 45
+
+ CHAPTER VI
+ THE REVOLUTION 61
+
+ CHAPTER VII
+ THE ENGLISH COLONY--THE EDUCATIONAL ADVANTAGES 65
+
+ CHAPTER VIII
+ VINET AND SAINTE-BEUVE--JUSTE OLIVIER 75
+
+ CHAPTER IX
+ NYON 83
+
+ CHAPTER X
+ THE FRENCH SHORE 89
+
+ CHAPTER XI
+ HISTORY OF THE FRENCH SHORE--FELIX V 95
+
+ CHAPTER XII
+ ST. FRANCIS DE SALES 99
+
+ CHAPTER XIII
+ JOSEPH DE MAISTRE 105
+
+ INDEX 109
+
+
+
+
+List of Illustrations
+
+
+ 1. Lausanne Cathedral from Montbenon _Frontispiece_
+
+ FACING PAGE
+ 2. Mont Blanc from above Morges 4
+
+ 3. Morges and the Lake from the Road to Vufflens 8
+
+ 4. Chateau de Vufflens, above Lausanne 12
+
+ 5. The Spires of St. Francois, Lausanne 16
+
+ 6. Chateau de Prangins 20
+
+ 7. Lausanne, looking East 26
+
+ 8. The Market Place, Lausanne 32
+
+ 9. La Tour de Haldimand--Ouchy--Lausanne 38
+
+ 10. Lausanne from the Signal 44
+
+ 11. In the Forest of Sauvabelin, above Lausanne 50
+
+ 12. Chateau de Blonay 56
+
+ 13. The Rhone Valley from Mont Pelerin 62
+
+ 14. A Street in St. Saphorin 68
+
+ 15. The Dents du Midi and La Tour from "Entre deux Villes" 74
+
+ 16. Lutry 80
+
+ 17. Cully from Epesse--Autumn 86
+
+ 18. Grandvaux from Cully 92
+
+ 19. The Rhone Valley from Chexbres 98
+
+ 20. The Church of St. Martin, Vevey 104
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE RULE OF SAVOY AND BERNE
+
+
+Though Lausanne is so near Geneva, its history, in historical times,
+has been widely different from that of the neighbouring town. Geneva
+enjoyed a modified independence from an early date, and became
+completely independent early in the sixteenth century. Lausanne,
+until nearly 300 years later, endured the domination, first of Savoy,
+and subsequently of Berne.
+
+The early history is obscure and full of vexed questions as well
+as unfamiliar names; but the central fact is that the Counts of
+Savoy--they were not promoted to be Dukes of Savoy until later--took
+possession of the Canton of Vaud, as well as of the Chablais and
+the lower Valais, after the death of the last of the Zaeringen, at
+the beginning of the thirteenth century. For the next 300 years
+they exercised overlordship, limited by the charters of the towns,
+and, in the case of Lausanne, by the jurisdiction of the Bishop--a
+complicated state of things which the Swiss historical societies may
+be left to unravel.
+
+It seems clear, however, that the Savoyards were no hard taskmasters.
+'The country of Vaud,' says its historian, Louis Vulliemin, 'was
+happy and proud to belong to them. They exacted little from it, and
+accorded it their powerful protection. The various States used to
+assemble at Moudon, the central town, summoned by the Council of
+Moudon, or by the Governor of Vaud, acting as the representative of
+the Prince. There was no palace. They met in an inn, or in the house
+of one of the citizens of the neighbourhood. Often they assembled in
+such small numbers that, for lack of a quorum, no decision could be
+taken.... No burdensome or unduly progressive measures were adopted.
+As a rule, the good old customs were confirmed. When a departure
+from them was resolved upon, it became law by receiving the sanction
+of the Prince. The business of the herald was to see that it was
+proclaimed, in the proper places, in a loud and intelligible voice.
+The Prince had sworn an oath to impose no new legislation that was
+not in accordance with the will of the nation as expressed by the
+estates of the realm.'
+
+The most notable of the Governors was Peter of Savoy--the same Peter
+of Savoy whom we meet in English history, fighting in the civil wars
+of the days of Simon de Montfort. His headquarters were in the Castle
+of Chillon, where he not only dispensed justice, but also amended the
+criminal law. It was the barbarous rule of the time that an offender
+who had been fined for a misdemeanour should have his nose cut off if
+he were unable to pay; Peter compelled even the Bishops to abandon
+that cruel custom. For the rest, to quote Vulliemin:
+
+'He received his vassals in the great hall of the Castle, where their
+coats of arms hung on the wall around that of the House of Savoy.
+The blowing of a horn announced that the meal was served. The ladies
+arrived in their emblazoned best. The chaplain read the grace from a
+volume bound in violet and gold--the precious depositary of Divine
+law and ecclesiastical ritual. After the feast came the hour of merry
+recreations. The Court fool and the minstrels took their seats by
+the side of the Prince, and the nobility thus passed their lives in
+junketing.'
+
+This is the same writer's picture of the lives of the burghers:
+
+'At Lausanne the three estates met in the month of May. In 1398 they
+submitted to a fresh drafting of the "Plaid general," which defined
+the respective rights of bishop, canons, and burghers. Three days
+were devoted to the hearing of suits. On the fourth day the Plaid,
+accompanied by elders, went the round of the streets, and ordered the
+necessary repairs. All the citizens were required to follow, carrying
+axes or stakes, so as to be able to lend a hand when required. The
+Bishop regaled the artificers with bread, wine, and eggs. In return,
+the blacksmiths had to shoe his horses, the saddlers to provide him
+with spurs and bridles, and the coachbuilders to supply him with a
+carriage. Three times a year the Seneschal passed in front of the
+cobblers' shops, and touched with his rod the pair of boots which
+he selected for his lordship. In time of war the prelate's army had
+to serve the Prince for a day and a night without pay, and as much
+longer as they might be wanted for wages. The Bishop's business was
+to ransom prisoners, protect the citizens from all injustice, and go
+to war on their behalf if necessary.
+
+ [Illustration: MONT BLANC FROM ABOVE MORGES]
+
+'Each district of the town had its special privileges. The fine
+for assault and battery was sixty livres in the city where the
+Bishop resided, sixty sous in the lower town, and only three sous
+outside the walls. The Bishop could not arrest a citizen without
+informing the burghers, or hold an inquest on the body of a dead man.
+The citizens of the Rue de la Bourg sat in judgment on criminals
+without assessors. Whenever they heard the summons, though they might
+be at the dinner-table, glass in hand, or in their shops measuring
+their cloth, they had to run off and give their opinion on the case.
+In return, they were exempt from certain taxes, had the sole right
+of placing hucksters' barrows in front of their shops, of using
+signboards, and of keeping inns.'
+
+It was the Reformation that terminated this primitive state of
+affairs. A succession of weak Governors had allowed the hold of the
+Dukes of Savoy over the country to be relaxed. It was impossible for
+them to maintain their authority when the people were indoctrinated
+with the new ideas. The end came when the Duke of Savoy threatened
+Geneva, and the Bernese marched through Vaud to the rescue, captured
+Chillon, delivered Bonivard, and kept the Canton for their reward.
+
+From the capture of Chillon onwards, Lausanne, like the rest of
+Vaud, was a Bernese dependency. Bernese governors (or baillis) were
+established in all the strong places, and Protestantism became the
+national religion.
+
+The conversion of the inhabitants was chiefly effected by Viret, a
+tailor's son, from Orbe, an excellent man, and a persuasive rather
+than an eloquent speaker. In 1536, after the fashion of the times,
+he, Calvin, and Farel challenged the Catholic theologians to a great
+debate. The monks, recognizing him as a formidable antagonist, had
+previously tried to get rid of him by surreptitious means. One of
+them had assaulted him at Payerne, and another had attempted to
+poison him at Geneva. At Lausanne they were obliged to argue with
+him, and failed still more conspicuously. The argument lasted for a
+week, and, at the end of the week, the populace, considering that the
+Protestant case was proved, proceeded to the cathedral to desecrate
+the altars and smash the images, while the governors confiscated
+the Church property and offered it for sale. 'It was thus,' writes
+Vulliemin, 'that Jost de Diesbach bought the church and vicarage of
+St. Christophe in order to turn the one into a baking house and the
+other into a country seat, and that Michel Augsburger transformed the
+ancient church of Baulmes into a stable for his cattle.'
+
+At the same time a disciplinary tribunal, somewhat on the lines of
+Calvin's theocracy at Geneva, was instituted to supervise the morals
+of the citizens; and absence from church was made punishable by fine,
+imprisonment, or banishment. Viret, it is true, was driven to resign
+his pastorate and leave Lausanne, because he was not allowed to
+refuse the Holy Communion to notorious evil-livers, and fifty other
+pastors followed his example; but the pastors who remained drafted
+a new moral code of sufficient severity, consisting, in the main,
+of a gloss upon each of the Ten Commandments, giving a list of the
+offences which it must be understood, for the future, to prohibit.
+Under the heading of Seventh Commandment, for example, it was
+written: 'This forbids fornication, drunkenness, baptismal and burial
+banquets, pride, dancing, and the use of tobacco and snuff.'
+
+A number of Sumptuary Laws were also adopted, to check the spread of
+luxury; and here again we cannot do better than quote Vulliemin:
+
+'The regulations prescribed the dress materials which each class of
+society might wear, and permitted none but the nobility to appear
+in gold-embroidered stuffs, brocades, collars of Paris point lace,
+and lace-embellished shoes. The women of the middle classes were
+forbidden to wear caps costing more than ten crowns, or any sort of
+false hair, or more than one petticoat at a time. One regulation
+settled the size of men's wigs, and another determined how low a
+lady's bodice might be cut. There was a continual battle between
+authority and fashion, and fashion was always contriving to evade
+the law. The purpose of the magistracy was not only to maintain
+the privileges of the upper classes, but also to fortify domestic
+morality against the imperious demands of vanity. A special
+government department was instituted to stop the use of tobacco. The
+baillis alone considered that the law did not apply to them; but one
+day, when one of these officials opened his snuff-box in church, the
+preacher interrupted him. "Here," he said, "one only snuffs the Word
+of God." Above all things, however, morality was the object of the
+jealous care of the magistrates of Vaud. So it was with an outburst
+of holy wrath that they heard that there was at Vevey "a dancing
+master, a Catholic, whose presence caused great scandals, at balls,
+in the evenings, between the two sexes." The stranger was banished,
+and the town was censured for its criminal toleration.'
+
+ [Illustration: MORGES AND THE LAKE FROM THE ROAD TO VUFFLENS]
+
+Such was the regime, and though, in externals, it resembled
+the regime at Geneva, there was one very significant difference.
+The Genevan discipline was self-imposed, and at least expressed the
+will of a working majority of the people. The Lausanne discipline
+represented the will of a conqueror imposed upon a subject race, and
+the conqueror had a rough and heavy hand, and rigorously excluded the
+subject people from participation in public affairs. The consequences
+can be traced in their history, habits, and manners.
+
+There was one poor feeble attempt at revolt. A certain Major Davel,
+after whom one of the steamboats on the lake is called--a Pietist,
+and perhaps a religious maniac--a soldier of fortune, whose merits
+had attracted the attention of such good judges as the Duke of
+Marlborough and Prince Eugene, mustered the militia of Cully and
+marched into Lausanne, declaring that he had come to set the Canton
+free. Asked for explanations, he replied that he had been guided by
+direct inspiration from on high. The defence did not save him, and he
+perished on the scaffold in 1723. The revolution at which he aimed
+was not to be accomplished for another eighty years, and the event
+constitutes almost the whole of the political history of Lausanne
+during the period under review.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+EMIGRANTS AND IMMIGRANTS
+
+
+Forbidden to seek careers at home, most of the aristocracy of Vaud
+went abroad to pursue fortune in the service of some foreign Power.
+There was always a good opening for them, whether as mercenary
+soldiers or as instructors of the young, and many of them achieved
+distinction and rose to high positions. Haldimand of Yverdon became
+a Lieutenant-General in the British Army and Governor of Canada.
+Reverdil of Nyon was first tutor to Christian VII. of Denmark, and
+afterwards his secretary. Amedee de Laharpe was one of Napoleon's
+generals; the only General, it is said, in the Army of Italy, who was
+not guilty of rapacity and extortion. Frederic Cesar de Laharpe held
+high office under Alexander I. of Russia; Dupuget of Yverdon was the
+tutor of the Russian Grand Dukes Nicolas and Michael; J. J. Cart was
+with Admiral Hood in America; Glayre became Polish Minister at St.
+Petersburg; Pache became Mayor of Paris; the list could be almost
+indefinitely extended.
+
+Most of these emigrants, moreover, suffered from the nostalgia which
+is characteristic of the Swiss. It was not enough for them to come
+home to die; they liked to return in middle age, and spend at home
+the money which they had earned abroad. And when they did return,
+they had, of course, no longer the homely wits of the home-keeping
+youths. They were men of experience, men of the world, men of
+polished manners and cosmopolitan culture. Their presence gave a new
+and a broader tone to Lausanne society. They were not to be driven
+to church like a flock of sheep, or forbidden to go to the theatre
+like a pack of schoolboys, or stood in the pillory for playing cards,
+or told by the preachers what they should eat or wherewithal they
+should be clothed. So far as they were concerned the discipline of
+the Consistory broke down, and the Sumptuary Laws did not apply to
+them. Their example liberalized even the clergy. They insisted upon
+making Lausanne a pleasant place to live in. Strangers found out that
+it was pleasant, and came to settle there in large numbers. There was
+already a foreign colony in Lausanne from quite an early date in the
+eighteenth century.
+
+ [Illustration: CHATEAU DE VUFFLENS, ABOVE LAUSANNE]
+
+Geneva had had its foreign colonists from a still earlier date, but
+they were exiles--Miles Coverdale, Bishop of Exeter, John Knox, John
+Bodley, William Whittingham, and others, who fled abroad to escape
+persecution by the Bloody Mary. With one accord they thanked their
+hosts for the hospitality bestowed upon them, and departed as soon as
+the accession of Elizabeth made it safe for them to do so. Some of
+the foreigners at Lausanne were also exiles, it is true, but hardly
+for conscience' sake, the opinions which had got them into trouble
+being more often political than religious. But they selected Lausanne
+as their place of residence because they liked it--not because it was
+a 'perfect school of Christ,' but because the site and the society
+were agreeable.
+
+Voltaire himself lived there for a little while before he settled
+down at Ferney, and encountered no theological objection to the
+theatrical performances which he organized. Gibbon, who was there at
+the time, living in the house of Pastor Pavilliard, declared that
+the entertainments, to which he was sometimes invited, 'refined in
+a visible degree the manners of Lausanne';[1] and the philosopher
+himself paid a tribute to those manners in a letter to D'Alembert,
+in which he wrote: 'All the amenities of society and sound philosophy
+have found their way into the part of Switzerland in which the
+climate is most agreeable and wealth abounds. The people here have
+succeeded in grafting the politeness of Athens upon the simplicity of
+Sparta.'
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[1] Gibbon's acquaintance with Voltaire was only slight. _Vidi
+tantum_, he writes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+GIBBON
+
+
+Voltaire belongs to Geneva rather than to Lausanne. The most
+distinguished of the strangers upon whom Lausanne has an exclusive
+claim is Gibbon.
+
+He was sent there, in the first instance, as a punishment for having
+embraced the Roman Catholic faith, and was lodged in the house of
+M. Pavilliard, a Calvinistic minister, whose instructions were to
+educate his pupil if possible, but to convert him at all costs. The
+desired conversion was effected, though it was more thorough than
+had been intended. Gibbon was persuaded to receive the Sacrament
+from a Protestant pastor, but never troubled himself with religion
+afterwards except in the capacity of historian. But, though he was
+at first treated like a schoolboy, and consoled himself for the
+loss of his liberty by getting drunk, he soon fell in love with the
+town--'Fanny Lausanne,' as he called it in a letter--and also fell
+in love with Mademoiselle Suzanne Curchod. That is one of the most
+famous of all literary love-stories, and one may properly pause here
+to relate it at length.
+
+Mademoiselle Curchod was the daughter of a country clergyman--very
+well educated, very beautiful, and very generally admired. Her
+earliest admirers were, naturally, the rising young ministers of the
+Gospel.[2] It amused her to invite them to sign documents, composed
+in playful imitation of legal contracts, binding themselves 'to come
+and preach at Crassier as often as she required, without waiting
+to be solicited, pressed, or entreated, seeing that the greatest
+of their pleasures was to oblige her on every possible occasion.'
+Her female friends, hearing of this, wrote to her expressing their
+disapproval, and strongly advising her to turn the preachers out of
+the house as soon as they had finished their sermons; but there is no
+evidence that she acted on their advice.
+
+ [Illustration: THE SPIRES OF ST. FRANCOIS, LAUSANNE]
+
+Visiting Lausanne, she extended the circle of her admirers. Her
+bright intelligence enabled her to shine as a member of a certain
+Societe du Printemps, and also of a certain Academie des Eaux--a
+debating club given to the discussion of such problems as 'Does
+an element of mystery really make love more agreeable?' or 'Can there
+be friendship between a man and a woman in the same sense as between
+two women or two men?' Her conduct in this connection was such that
+her friends warned her that her desire to make herself agreeable to
+young men was too clearly advertised; but it does not appear that
+the warning made any impression on her. At all events, she was very
+successful in making herself agreeable to Gibbon, then a lad about
+eighteen years of age. 'Saw Mademoiselle Curchod. Omnia vincit
+amor, et nos cedamus amori,' is one of the early entries in his
+diary; and we have a picture of Gibbon, at about the same date, from
+Mademoiselle Curchod's own pen. In middle age--as we can see from his
+portraits--he was an ugly, ungainly, podgy little man; but it is not
+thus that he appears in the portrait drawn by the woman who loved him.
+
+'He has beautiful hair,' Mademoiselle Curchod writes, 'a pretty hand,
+and the air of a man of rank. His face is so intellectual and strange
+that I know no one like him. It has so much expression that one is
+always finding something new in it. His gestures are so appropriate
+that they add much to his speech. In a word, he has one of those
+extraordinary faces that one never tires of trying to depict. He
+knows the respect that is due to women. His courtesy is easy without
+verging on familiarity. He dances moderately well.'
+
+So these two naturally--and rightly and properly--fell in love; they
+must have seemed each other's ideal complements, if ever lovers were.
+But they were not to marry. The story of their attachment, their
+separation, and their subsequent Platonic friendship is one of the
+romances of literature. Gibbon himself has told the story in one of
+the most frequently quoted passages of his autobiography. His version
+of it is inexact and misleading; but it must be quoted, if only in
+order that it may be criticized:
+
+'I need not blush,' he writes, 'at recollecting the object of my
+choice; and though my love was disappointed of success, I am rather
+proud that I was once capable of feeling such a pure and exalted
+sentiment. The personal attractions of Mademoiselle Susan Curchod
+were embellished by the virtues and talents of the mind. Her fortune
+was humble, but her family was respectable. Her mother, a native of
+France, had preferred her religion to her country. The profession
+of her father did not extinguish the moderation and philosophy of
+his temper, and he lived content with a small salary and laborious
+duty in the obscure lot of minister of Crassy, in the mountains
+that separate the Pays de Vaud from the county of Burgundy. In
+the solitude of a sequestered village he bestowed a liberal, and
+even learned, education on his only daughter. She surpassed his
+hopes by her proficiency in the sciences and languages; and in her
+short visits to some relations at Lausanne, the wit, the beauty,
+and erudition of Mademoiselle Curchod were the theme of universal
+applause. The report of such a prodigy awakened my curiosity; I
+saw and loved. I found her learned without pedantry, lively in
+conversation, pure in sentiment, and elegant in manners; and the
+first sudden emotion was fortified by the habits and knowledge of a
+more familiar acquaintance. She permitted me to make two or three
+visits at her father's house. I passed some happy days there, in the
+mountains of Burgundy, and her parents honourably encouraged the
+connection. In a calm retirement the gay vanity of youth no longer
+fluttered in her bosom, and I might presume to hope that I had
+made some impression on a virtuous heart. At Crassy and Lausanne I
+indulged my dream of felicity; but on my return to England I soon
+discovered that my father would not hear of this strange alliance,
+and that, without his consent, I was myself destitute and helpless.
+After a painful struggle I yielded to my fate; I sighed as a lover,
+I obeyed as a son; my wound was insensibly healed by time, absence,
+and the habits of a new life. My cure was accelerated by a faithful
+report of the tranquillity and cheerfulness of the lady herself, and
+my love subsided in friendship and esteem.'
+
+Such is Gibbon's story, which is also the accepted story. It is,
+perhaps, a palliation of its inaccuracies that, at the time when he
+wrote it down, he and Mademoiselle Curchod--then Madame Necker--were
+on such pleasant terms of friendship that neither of them cared to
+remember or be reminded that either had ever treated the other badly.
+We shall come to that matter presently; here it is proper that the
+inaccuracies should be noted.
+
+ [Illustration: CHATEAU DE PRANGINS
+ THE STEPS BY WHICH JOSEPH BUONAPARTE ESCAPED IN 1815]
+
+Gibbon's story, it will be observed, gives us the impression that,
+on getting home, he lost no time in opening his heart to his
+father, and, having done this, lost no further time in acquainting
+Mademoiselle Curchod with his father's views. M. d'Haussonville
+tells us that he left Lausanne in 1758, kept Mademoiselle Curchod
+waiting four years for a letter,[3] and then in 1762 sat down and
+wrote, breaking off the engagement. One shrinks from the attempt to
+picture the feelings of the poor girl who, after enduring suspense,
+and trying to frame excuses for silence, broke the seal of the
+long-expected missive, only to read:
+
+'I do not know how to begin this letter. Yet begin it I must. I take
+up my pen, I drop it, I resume it. This commencement shows you what
+it is that I am about to say. Spare me the rest. Yes, Mademoiselle, I
+must renounce you for ever. The sentence is passed; my heart laments
+it; but, in the presence of my duty, every other consideration must
+be silent....
+
+'My father spoke of the cruelty of deserting him, and of sending him
+prematurely to his grave, of the cowardice of trampling underfoot my
+duty to my country. I withdrew to my room and remained there for two
+hours. I will not attempt to picture to you my state of mind. But I
+left my room to tell my father that I agreed to sacrifice to him the
+happiness of my life.
+
+'Mademoiselle, may you be happier than I can ever hope to be! This
+will always be my prayer; this will even be my consolation.... Assure
+M. and Madame Curchod of my respect, my esteem, and my regrets.
+Good-bye. I shall always remember Mademoiselle Curchod as the most
+worthy, the most charming, of women. May she not entirely forget a
+man who does not deserve the despair to which he is a prey.'
+
+Even this, however, was not the end of the story, though one would
+think it was if one had only Gibbon's narrative to go by. In 1763
+he revisited Lausanne, and his own story of his sojourn does not so
+much as mention Mademoiselle Curchod's name. One would gather from
+it either that he did not see her, or that love had already on both
+sides 'subsided in friendship and esteem.' But when the Vicomte
+d'Haussonville was given access to the archives of the Necker family,
+he found letters proving that this was not by any means the case.
+
+Mademoiselle Curchod's father was then dead, and she was living
+at Geneva, supporting her mother by teaching. Some of her
+friends--notably Pastor Moultou--tried to bring Gibbon to a sense of
+the obligations which they felt he owed to her. Rousseau was brought
+into the business, and expressed an opinion which led Gibbon to
+retort, 'That extraordinary man, whom I admire and pity, should have
+been less precipitate in condemning the moral character and conduct
+of a stranger.' It is useless, however, to try to piece the whole
+story together--the materials are inadequate. One can only take the
+letters which the Vicomte d'Haussonville has published, and which, as
+he points out, are by no means the whole of the correspondence, and
+see what sidelights they throw upon it.
+
+First we have one of Mademoiselle Curchod's letters. Whether she
+wrote it because she had met Gibbon and found his manner towards her
+changed, or was perplexed and troubled because he had not sought a
+meeting, we have no means of knowing. But it is quite clear that she
+wrote it under the sense of having been treated badly.
+
+'For five years,' she writes, 'I have, by my unique and, indeed,
+inconceivable behaviour, done sacrifice to this chimera. At last
+my heart, romantic as it is, has been convinced of my mistake. I
+ask you, on my knees, to dissuade me from my madness in loving you.
+Subscribe the full confession of your indifference, and my soul will
+adapt itself to the changed conditions; certainty will bring me the
+tranquillity for which I sigh. You will be the most contemptible of
+men if you refuse to be frank with me. God will punish you, in spite
+of my prayers, if there is the least hypocrisy in your reply.'
+
+The reply is lost. Mademoiselle Curchod presumably destroyed it
+because it pained her. Apparently it contained a proposal of Platonic
+friendship as a substitute for love. At all events, Mademoiselle
+Curchod's answer seems to accept that situation, whether with
+ulterior designs or not, for it begins:
+
+'What is fortune to me? Besides, it is not to you that I have
+sacrificed it, but to an imaginary being which will never exist
+elsewhere than in a silly, romantic head like mine. From the moment
+when your letter disillusioned me, you resumed your place, in my
+eyes, on the same footing as other men; and, after being the only man
+whom I could love, you have become one of those to whom I feel the
+least drawn, because you are the one that bears the least resemblance
+to my chimerical ideal.... Follow out the plan that you propose,
+place your attachment for me on the same footing as that of my other
+friends, and you will find me as confiding, as tender, and, at the
+same time, as indifferent as I am to them.'
+
+And the writer proceeds to take up the Platonic position at once, to
+criticize Gibbon's first essay in literature, to offer him useful
+introductions, and to ask him to advise her whether she would be
+likely to be well treated if she took a situation as 'lady companion'
+in England.
+
+Even in this Platonic correspondence, however, Gibbon, with a
+prudence beyond his years, seems to have scented danger.
+
+'Mademoiselle,' he wrote, 'must you be for ever pressing upon me a
+happiness which sound reason compels me to decline? I have forfeited
+your love. Your friendship is left to me, and it bestows so much
+honour upon me that I cannot hesitate. I accept it, mademoiselle,
+as a precious offering in exchange for my own friendship, which is
+already yours, and as a blessing of which I know the value too well
+to be disposed to lose it.
+
+'But this correspondence, mademoiselle, I am sensible of the
+pleasures which it brings me, but, at the same time, I am conscious
+of its dangers. I feel the dangers that it has for me; I fear the
+dangers that it may have for both of us. Permit me to avoid those
+dangers by my silence. Forgive my fears, mademoiselle; they have
+their origin in my esteem for you.'
+
+And he proceeded to answer her questions concerning the position and
+prospects of 'lady companions' in England, expecting, no doubt, that
+he would hear no more from her.
+
+Even then, however, the story was not ended. The most passionate of
+Mademoiselle Curchod's letters bears a later date. It is the letter
+of a woman who feels that she has been treated shamefully. If it were
+not that Mademoiselle Curchod made a happy marriage so very soon
+afterwards, one would also say that it was the letter of a woman
+whose heart was broken. One gathers from it that, while Mademoiselle
+Curchod appreciated Gibbon's difficulty in marrying her while he was
+dependent upon his father, she was willing to wait for him until his
+father's death should leave him free to follow the impulse of his
+heart. In the meantime she reproaches him for having caused her to
+reject other offers of marriage, and protests that it is not true,
+whatever calumnious gossips may have said, that, in Gibbon's absence,
+she has flirted with other men. Above all, she protests that she has
+not flirted with Gibbon's great friend, M. Deyverdun. Her last words
+are:
+
+ 'I am treating you as an honest man of the world, who is
+ incapable of breaking his promise, of seduction, or of
+ treachery, but who has, instead of that, amused himself in
+ racking my heart with tortures, well prepared, and well carried
+ into effect. I will not threaten you, therefore, with the wrath
+ of heaven--the expression that escaped from me in my first
+ emotion. But I assure you, without laying any claim to the gift
+ of prophecy, that you will one day regret the irreparable loss
+ that you have incurred in alienating for ever the too frank and
+ tender heart of
+
+ 'S. C.'
+
+ [Illustration: LAUSANNE, LOOKING EAST]
+
+The rest is silence; and the presumption is strong that these were
+actually the last words which sealed the estrangement. If it were not
+for Mademoiselle Curchod's subsequent attitude towards him, one would
+be bound to say that Gibbon behaved abominably. But, as we shall see
+presently, her resentment was not enduring. Perhaps she was aware of
+extenuating circumstances that we do not know of. Perhaps, in her
+heart of hearts, she was conscious of having spread her net to catch
+a husband who then seemed a very brilliant match to the daughter of
+the country clergyman. The letter of the friend who begged her not
+to advertise so clearly her desire to make herself agreeable to men
+would certainly lend some colour to the suggestion. At any rate,
+since she herself forgave Gibbon, it seems unfair for anyone else to
+press the case against him.
+
+It was nearly twenty years later--in 1783--that Gibbon decided to
+make Lausanne his home.
+
+A good deal of water had flowed under the bridge in the meantime.
+He had written, and published, half of his History; and that half
+had sufficed to make him famous. He had been an officer in the
+militia and a Member of Parliament. He had been a constant figure in
+fashionable society, and an occasional figure in literary society;
+a fellow-member with Charles James Fox of Boodle's, White's, and
+Brooks's; a fellow-member of the Literary Club with Johnson, Burke,
+Adam Smith, Oliver Goldsmith, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Sir Joseph
+Banks. He had held office in the department of the Board of Trade,
+and lost it at the time of the coalition between Fox and North. His
+applications for employment in the Diplomatic Service--whether as
+Secretary to the Embassy at Paris or as Minister Plenipotentiary at
+Berne--had been politely rejected. And he had become a middle-aged
+bachelor whose income, unless supplemented by the emoluments of some
+public office, hardly sufficed for the demands of his social position.
+
+In these circumstances it occurred to him to propose to his friend,
+M. Deyverdun--the same M. Deyverdun with whom Mademoiselle Curchod
+vowed that she had never flirted--that they should keep house
+together at Lausanne. M. Deyverdun, who was like himself a confirmed
+bachelor of moderate means, and had a larger house than he wanted,
+was delighted with the proposal. All Gibbon's friends and relatives
+told him that he was making a fool of himself; but he knew better.
+He sold all his property, except his library, and 'bade a long
+farewell to the _fumum et opes strepitumque Romae_.' His first winter,
+as he puts it in his delightful style, 'was given to a general
+embrace without nice discrimination of persons and characters.' The
+comprehensive embrace completed, he settled down to work.
+
+His life at Lausanne is faithfully mirrored in his letters, more
+particularly in his letters to Lord Sheffield. It was at once a
+luxurious and an industrious life. One fact which stands out clearly
+is that Gibbon took no exercise. He boasts that, in a period of five
+years, he never moved five miles from Lausanne; he apologizes for a
+corpulence which makes it absolutely impossible for him to cross the
+Great Saint Bernard; he admits that, when he entertained Mr. Fox, he
+did not go for walks with that statesman, but hired a guide to do so
+on his behalf. He also drank a great deal of Madeira and Malvoisie.
+His letters to Lord Sheffield are full of appeals for pipes of these
+exhilarating beverages. He declares that they are necessary for the
+preservation of his health, and appears to have persuaded himself
+that they were good for gout. The consequence was that he had several
+severe attacks of that distressing malady.
+
+Gout or no gout, however, he freely enjoyed the relaxation of social
+intercourse. He was never tired of pointing out to his correspondents
+that, whereas in London he was nobody in particular, in Lausanne he
+was a leader of society. His position there was, in fact, similar
+in many ways to that of Voltaire at Geneva; though he differed from
+Voltaire in always keeping on good terms with all his neighbours. To
+be invited to his parties was no less a mark of distinction than it
+had been, a generation earlier, to be invited to the philosopher's
+parties at Ferney. One of the letters tells us how he gave a ball,
+and stole away to bed at 2 a.m., leaving the young people, his
+guests, to keep it up till after sunrise. He also gave frequent
+dinners, and still more frequent card-parties. When the gout was very
+bad, he gave card-parties in his bedroom.
+
+Distinguished strangers often came to see him, and gave Lausanne the
+tone of a fashionable resort. 'You talk of Lausanne,' he writes,
+'as a place of retirement, yet, from the situation and freedom of
+the Pays de Vaud, all nations, and all extraordinary characters are
+astonished to meet each other. The Abbe Raynal, the great Gibbon,
+and Mercier, author of the "Tableau de Paris," have been in the same
+room. The other day the Prince and Princesse de Ligne, the Duke
+and Duchess d'Ursel, etc., came from Brussels on purpose to act a
+comedy.' And again: 'A few weeks ago, as I was walking on our terrace
+with M. Tissot, the celebrated physician; M. Mercier, the author
+of the "Tableau de Paris"; the Abbe Raynal; Monsieur, Madame, and
+Mademoiselle Necker; the Abbe de Bourbon, a natural son of Lewis
+the Fifteenth; the Hereditary Prince of Brunswick, Prince Henry of
+Prussia, and a dozen Counts, Barons, and extraordinary persons,' etc.
+
+From time to time he faced the question whether it would be well to
+marry. Madame Necker dissuaded him from the adventure on the ground
+that in order to marry happily it is necessary to marry young. It is
+not certain that her advice was disinterested, but it was good advice
+to give to a man who, after expressing his readiness to adopt 'some
+expedient, even the most desperate, to secure the domestic society
+of a female companion,' summed up his sentiments upon the subject in
+this candid language:
+
+'I am not in love with any of the hyaenas of Lausanne, though there
+are some who keep their claws tolerably well pared. Sometimes, in a
+solitary mood, I have fancied myself married to one or another of
+those whose society and conversation are the most pleasing to me;
+but when I have painted in my fancy all the probable consequences of
+such a union, I have started from my dream, rejoiced in my escape,
+and ejaculated a thanksgiving that I was still in possession of my
+natural freedom.'
+
+ [Illustration: THE MARKET-PLACE, LAUSANNE]
+
+This, however, was not written until after the History was finished.
+Gibbon never felt the need of a female companion so long as he had
+his work to occupy him. The fact that he began to feel it
+acutely as soon as ever the work was done gives an added pathos to
+this, the most famous and the most frequently quoted passage of his
+memoirs:
+
+'I have presumed to mark the moment of conception: I shall now
+commemorate the hour of my final deliverance. It was on the day,
+or rather night, of the 27th of June, 1787, between the hours of
+eleven and twelve, that I wrote the last lines of the last page,
+in a summer-house in my garden. After laying down my pen, I took
+several turns in a _berceau_, or covered walk of acacias, which
+commands a prospect of the country, the lake, and the mountains. The
+air was temperate, the sky was serene, the silver orb of the moon
+was reflected from the waters, and all Nature was silent. I will not
+dissemble the first emotions on the recovery of my freedom, and,
+perhaps, the establishment of my fame. But my pride was soon humbled,
+and a sober melancholy was spread over my mind by the idea that I had
+taken an everlasting leave of an old and agreeable companion, and
+that whatsoever might be the future fate of my History, the life of
+the historian must be short and precarious.'
+
+The life of the historian was, in fact, destined to last only for
+another six years--years in which he sometimes was desperately
+anxious to relieve his loneliness, aggravated by the death of
+Deyverdun, by seeking 'the domestic society of a female companion,'
+but inclined, on the whole, to the opinion encouraged by Madame
+Necker, that the remedy would be worse than the disease. We probably
+shall not be wrong in conjecturing that the pleasure which he derived
+from Madame Necker's correspondence and society assisted him in
+coming to this decision. At any rate, we must admit that there are
+few literary romances more remarkable than this story, of the renewal
+of love some thirty years or so after a lovers' quarrel.
+
+The lovers parted, as we have seen, with high-strung feelings--at
+least upon the lady's side. They met again soon after Mademoiselle
+Curchod had accepted the heart and hand of Jacques Necker, the rich
+Parisian banker, destined to become Louis XVI.'s Minister of Finance.
+Gibbon, coming to Paris, called, and was well received. We have
+accounts of the visit from both of them. Madame Necker says that her
+vanity was flattered because Gibbon appeared to be dazzled by the
+contemplation of her wealth. Gibbon complains that he was not taken
+very seriously, that M. Necker invited him to supper every evening,
+and went to bed, leaving him alone with his wife. The philosopher
+Balzac would have called him a fool, and classed him with the
+_predestines_; but it does not appear that scandal, or occasion
+for scandal, or anything worse than the interchange of sentimental
+_persiflage_, resulted.
+
+A gap in the history of their friendship follows, but in 1776 we
+find the Neckers visiting Gibbon in Bentinck Street. Gibbon writes
+patronizingly of the husband as 'a sensible, good-natured creature,'
+and of the wife he says: 'I live with her just as I used to do twenty
+years ago, laugh at her Paris varnish, and oblige her to become a
+simple, reasonable Suissesse.'
+
+We need not interpret this statement _au pied de la lettre_, but the
+visit certainly marks a stage in the story of their intimacy. Gibbon
+went to see the Neckers in Paris in the following year, and after his
+return to London Madame du Deffand told him how she had talked to
+Madame Necker about him. 'We talked of M. Gibbon. Of what else? Of M.
+Gibbon--continually of M. Gibbon.' And Madame Necker herself wrote,
+at about the same time, with reference to the publication of the
+first volumes of 'The Decline and Fall':
+
+'Wherever I go your books shall follow me, and give me pleasure and
+happiness. If you write, too, your letters will be welcome and
+appreciated. If you do not write ... but I refuse to contemplate this
+painful possibility.'
+
+Gibbon's migration to Lausanne and the Neckers' purchase of their
+famous country seat at Coppet united them by still closer ties, and
+one cannot help noticing that at this period of their lives--when
+they were both something over fifty years of age--Madame Necker's
+letters to Gibbon became at once more frequent and more affectionate.
+Some of those letters, indeed, can only be distinguished from
+love-letters by reading into them our knowledge of Madame Necker's
+reputation for propriety. We have seen her dissuading Gibbon from
+marriage on the ground that to marry late is to marry unhappily.
+Another reason which she gives is that 'without a miracle it would be
+impossible to find a woman worthy of you.' Of a contemplated visit to
+Lausanne she says: 'I am looking forward with a delightful sentiment
+to the day I am to pass with you.' And afterwards:
+
+'Returning here, and finding only the tombs of those I loved so well,
+I found you, as it were, a solitary tree whose shade still covers the
+desert which separates me from the first years of my life.'
+
+And in another letter, more sentimental still, we read:
+
+'Come back to us when you are free. The moment of your leisure ought
+always to belong to her who has been _your first love and your last_.
+I cannot make up my mind which of these titles is the sweeter and the
+dearer to my heart.'
+
+What are we to make of it all? Nothing, assuredly, that entitles us
+to cast a stone at Madame Necker, or to express for her husband a
+pity which he never felt for himself. Yet one imagines that after M.
+Necker, who kept such early hours, had retired to his well-earned
+repose, there must sometimes have been certain sentimental
+communings, in which the old note of _persiflage_ was no longer to
+be heard. One listens in fancy to the regrets of these two who never
+forgot that they had once been lovers--regrets, no doubt, not openly
+expressed, but only coyly hinted--for the things that might have been.
+
+The regrets, we may take it, were tempered by the lurking
+consciousness that things were really better as they were. The lovers
+must have known that, if they had married on nothing a year, the one
+would never have written his history and the other would never have
+had her salon, but they would have been two struggling nonentities
+whom the world would never have heard of. They must have felt, too,
+that the success in life which they had achieved separately, but
+could not possibly have achieved together, had meant much to them:
+that in winning it they had fulfilled their destinies; that their
+tempers would have soured if they had had to live without it. All
+this they must have admitted to themselves, and even in their most
+candid moments, to each other. And yet--and yet----
+
+ [Illustration: LA TOUR DE HALDIMAND, OUCHY, LAUSANNE]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[2] Poems addressed to her by these young theologians may be found in
+defunct magazines and annuals.
+
+[3] This is not quite accurate. The letter which M. d'Haussonville
+dates 1762 conveys a salutation to Pastor Curchod, who died in 1760.
+It must have been written, therefore, not in 1762, but in 1758 or
+1759.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+MADAME DE MONTOLIEU--DR. TISSOT
+
+
+To us, as we look backwards, Gibbon in Lausanne society figures as
+a Triton among the minnows, but to his contemporaries he probably
+seemed less important. He certainly did to his contemporaries in
+London. Boswell, as we all know, considered him the intellectual
+inferior of Dr. Johnson; and there is the story of the Duke of St.
+Albans accepting a presentation copy of his 'Decline and Fall of the
+Roman Empire' with the genial remark, 'Hallo! Another two d----d
+thick volumes! Always scribble, scribble, scribble, eh, Mr. Gibbon!'
+No one in Lausanne took quite such a Philistine tone as that, but
+it is doubtful whether even Lausanne would have voted him a higher
+position than that of _Primus inter pares_. Lausanne, after all, had
+its native notables, and was too near to its celebrities to see them
+in their true perspective. It had, among others, Madame de Montolieu.
+
+She was a beauty as well as a woman of letters, and Gibbon himself
+admired her in both capacities. He wrote to Lord Sheffield that
+there was 'danger' for him, and he was in danger of making himself
+ridiculous if of nothing worse. The story is told that he fell
+upon his knees to make a declaration of love to Madame Montolieu,
+and being too fat to rise without assistance, had to be helped to
+his feet by a domestic servant summoned for the purpose. He bore
+no malice, however, but even persuaded the lady to publish a novel
+which she had written 'to amuse an aged relative,' offering, when she
+objected, to attest his belief in its merits by printing it under his
+own signature.
+
+The novel in question was 'Caroline de Lichtfield,' which has passed
+through many editions--the first in 1786 and the last in 1846--and
+been translated into English. Its enthusiastic reception launched
+its author upon a career. Her collected works, including a French
+translation of 'The Swiss Family Robinson,' fill 105 volumes; and a
+host of imitators arose. 'Well! are they still turning out novels at
+Lausanne?' was one of the questions that Napoleon asked the Council
+of the Helvetian Republic; and Louis Bridel, brother of the more
+famous Doyen Bridel, writing in 1787, drew a graphic picture of the
+Lausanne ladies, all with one accord engaged in literary toil:
+
+'The romance of "Caroline," and the renown which it has brought its
+author, has caused such a ferment in our feminine heads that, jealous
+of the reputation of one of their number, they cover an incredible
+quantity of paper with ink. They pass their days in writing novels;
+their toilette tables are no longer covered with chiffons, but with
+sheets of notepaper; and, if one unfolds a curlpaper, one is sure
+to find that it is a fragment of a love-letter, or of a romantic
+description.'
+
+Madame de Charriere, a rival craftswoman of whom we shall have to
+speak, the author of 'Lettres de Lausanne,' did not like Madame de
+Montolieu. She called her a 'provincial coquette,' and ridiculed
+her 'pretentions,' maintaining that, though her countrymen were
+attracted by her charms, 'the English who boarded with her stepfather
+considered her a disgustingly dirty and untidy person.' But Gibbon,
+who was not only English but a man of taste, thought otherwise, as we
+have seen; and his judgment may be accepted as the less prejudiced of
+the two. And Madame de Montolieu's literary success, at any rate, is
+not to be disputed. She lived to be an octogenarian, and retained
+her popularity until the last.[4] She and her only child, dying
+simultaneously, were buried in the same grave, on which may be read
+the inscription, 'Here I am, O Lord, with the son whom Thou hast
+given me!'
+
+Dr. Tissot, whom we have already met on the Terrace at Lausanne, is
+another celebrity of the period who merits further mention. He and
+Gibbon once danced a minuet together at an evening party--a penalty
+imposed upon them in a game of 'forfeits.' They thus, says Tissot's
+German biographer, Eynard, 'revived the innocent pleasures of Arcadia
+of old'; but the great physician, is less famous for the way in which
+he took his pleasures than for the way in which he did his work.
+Tronchin of Geneva had been the medical attendant of the cosmopolitan
+aristocracy, had anticipated Rousseau in exhorting mothers to nurse
+their own children, and had ventured, with a rude hand, to open the
+windows of the Palace of Versailles. Tissot of Lausanne aspired to
+be the medical adviser of the common people. 'While,' he wrote, 'we
+are attending the most brilliant portion of humanity in the cities,
+the most useful members of society are perishing miserably in the
+country villages.'
+
+Obviously, he could not do much personally to cure the ailments of a
+scattered rural population; but he did what he might to help them by
+writing popular manuals of hygiene. Some of his advice is not even
+now out of date. He denounced the vice of overfeeding the delicate:
+'The more one loves an invalid, the more one tries to make him eat;
+and that is to kill him with kindness.' He also spoke vigorous words
+against excessive tea-drinking:
+
+'These teapots full of hot water which I find on people's tables
+remind me of the box of Pandora from which all evils issued--but with
+this difference, that they do not even leave hope behind, but, being
+a cause of hypochondria, disseminate melancholy and despair.'
+
+These excellent pamphlets brought Tissot fame and the friendship of
+the great. Joseph II. offered him a medical chair at the University
+of Padua, which he occupied for two years. He was offered, but did
+not accept, the posts of physician at the Courts of Hanover and
+Poland. The Prince of Wurtemberg--he whom Rousseau addressed in the
+famous letter beginning 'If I had had the misfortune to be born a
+Prince'--settled at Lausanne in order to be near him; and many
+interesting people sought his advice by correspondence. In particular
+a certain young gunner wrote from Ajaccio to ask what his uncle, an
+Archdeacon, had better take for the gout. The orthography is curious:
+'S'il asseie de remuer les genoux, des douleurs egus lui font cesser
+son accion.' The signature is 'BUONAPARTE, _Officier au regiment de
+la Fere_.'
+
+ [Illustration: LAUSANNE FROM THE SIGNAL]
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[4] She sheltered Madame de Genlis in her flight from the Revolution.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+BENJAMIN CONSTANT AND MADAME DE STAEL
+
+
+Next, though they do not become interesting until a somewhat later
+date, we may mention the Constants: Rosalie de Constant, the witty
+little hunchback whose sentimental correspondence with Bernardin de
+Saint-Pierre has recently been published, and her more famous cousin,
+Benjamin Constant de Rebecque, the story of whose love for Madame de
+Stael has recently been revived.[5] That is another story which will
+be here in its proper place.
+
+Benjamin was a man of many love-affairs; 'Constant the inconstant'
+was the name that women called him by. He was the son of a Swiss
+soldier of fortune, and had a cosmopolitan education at Oxford and
+Edinburgh, in Belgium and in Germany. In his youth he held the
+post of Chamberlain at the Court of Brunswick, where he acquired
+distingished manners. He was brilliant, though shallow, and there
+was something Wertheresque about him.
+
+Born in 1767, he was married, in 1789, to the ugliest of the Duchess
+of Brunswick's maids of honour. He said afterwards that he had
+married her for no particular reason that he could remember, but that
+his reasons for divorcing her were clear enough. After his separation
+from her, he consoled himself by an intrigue with Madame de
+Charriere--a Dutch lady, married to a Switzer, residing at Colombier,
+near Neuchatel, and known as the authoress of several sentimental
+novels. It was an affair that could hardly have lasted long in any
+case, seeing that the lady was twenty-seven years older than her
+lover. As a matter of fact it came to a quick end when the lover met
+Madame de Stael.
+
+The details of that meeting are curious. Being at Lausanne, Benjamin
+Constant set out to call on Madame de Stael at Coppet. His relatives
+already knew, and he was interested to make her acquaintance. It
+happened that he met Madame de Stael on the road, driving from
+Coppet to Lausanne. He stopped the carriage and introduced himself.
+She invited him to get in, and drove him back. Finding his company
+agreeable, she pressed him to stay to supper with her. He did so,
+and was farther rewarded by an invitation to breakfast with his
+hostess on the following morning.
+
+It was to Madame de Charriere herself that Benjamin Constant first
+confided the impression that Madame de Stael had made upon him.
+
+'It is the most interesting acquaintance that I have ever made,'
+he wrote. 'Seldom have I seen such a combination of alluring
+and dazzling qualities, such brilliance, and such good sense, a
+friendliness so expansive and so cultivated, such generosity of
+sentiment, and such gentle courtesy. She is the second woman I have
+met for whom I could have counted the world well lost--you know who
+was the first. She is, in fact, a being apart--a superior being, such
+as one meets but once in a century.'
+
+Having read that, Madame de Charriere knew that she had passed for
+ever out of Benjamin Constant's life. His own writings give us a
+glimpse of the early days of the new intimacy. Two passages from his
+diary, the second supplementing the first, supply the picture. Thus
+we read, on one day:
+
+'I had agreed with Madame de Stael that, in order to avoid
+compromising her, I should never stay with her later than midnight.
+Whatever the charm of her conversation, and however passionate my
+desire for something more than her conversation, I had to submit to
+this rule. But this evening, the time having passed more quickly
+than usual, I pulled out my watch to demonstrate that it was not yet
+time for me to go. But the inexorable minute-hand having deceived
+me, in a moment of childish anger I flung the instrument of my
+condemnation on the floor and broke it. "How silly you are!" Madame
+de Stael exclaimed. But what a smile I perceived shining through her
+reproaches! Decidedly my broken watch will do me a good turn.'
+
+And the next day we find the entry:
+
+'I have not bought myself a new watch. I do not need one any more.'
+
+For a time the affair proceeded satisfactorily, no serious cloud
+appearing on the horizon until the death of M. de Stael. Then, of
+course, Madame de Stael was free to marry her lover, and Benjamin
+Constant proposed that she should do so. But she would not. One
+reason was that she did not wish to change a name that her writings
+had made famous; another, and perhaps a weightier one, that, though
+she loved Benjamin, she had no confidence in him--'Constant the
+inconstant' was inconstant still. Though he loved Madame de Stael,
+he loved other women too. His intimacy with Madame Talma, the actor's
+wife, was notorious, and was not the only intimacy of the kind with
+which rumour credited him. Altogether, he was not the sort of man
+whom any woman could marry with any certainty that he would make her
+happy.
+
+So Madame de Stael refused to marry Benjamin Constant, and with her
+refusal their relations entered upon a fresh and interesting phase.
+Henceforward the story is one of subsiding passion on his part,
+and very desperate efforts on hers to fan the dying embers of his
+desire. Again and again he tried to break with her; again and again
+she overwhelmed him with her reproaches, and brought him back, a
+penitent slave, suing for the renewal of her favour. The time when
+these things happened was the time when her salon at Coppet was
+at the zenith of its renown. The story is told for us by Benjamin
+Constant himself, in his 'Journal Intime,' a diary not written for
+publication, but published, long after his death, in the _Revue
+Internationale_,[6] in 1887.
+
+The tone, at first, is that of a man whom lassitude has overtaken
+after elegant debauchery. Benjamin Constant is only thirty-seven,
+yet he already feels himself an old man, whose powers are failing,
+who is no longer capable of strong emotion, or even of taking an
+intelligent interest in life. He writes, in fact, as if he were very
+tired. When something happens to remind him of his old attachment to
+Madame de Charriere, he writes thus:
+
+'It is seven years since I saw her--ten since our intimacy ended. How
+easily I then used to break every tie that bored me! How confident
+I was that I could always form others when I pleased! How clearly
+I felt that my life was mine to do what I liked with, and what a
+difference ten years have made! Now everything seems precarious,
+and ready to fly away from me. Even the privileges that I have do
+not make me happy. But I have passed the age of giving up anything,
+because I feel that I am powerless to replace anything.'
+
+ [Illustration: IN THE FOREST OF SAUVABELIN, ABOVE LAUSANNE]
+
+He describes--sometimes with a languid resignation, and sometimes
+with a peevish resentment--Madame de Stael's repeated endeavours to
+drag him, a more or less reluctant victim, at her chariot wheels.
+This is a very typical entry:
+
+'A lively supper with the Prince de Belmonte. Left alone with Madame
+de Stael. The storm gradually rises. A fearful scene, lasting till
+three o'clock in the morning--on my lack of sensibility, my
+untrustworthiness, the failure of my actions to correspond with
+my sentiments. Alas! I would be glad to escape from monotonous
+lamentations, not over real calamities, but upon the universal laws
+of nature, and upon the advent of old age. I should be glad if she
+would not ask me for love after a _liaison_ of ten years' standing,
+at a time when we are both nearly forty years old, and after I have
+declared, times out of number, that I have no longer any love to give
+her. It is a declaration which I have never withdrawn, except for the
+purpose of calming storms of passion which frightened me.'
+
+So is this:
+
+'A letter from Madame de Stael, who finds my letters melancholy, and
+asks what it is that I require to make me happy. Alas! what I require
+is my liberty, and that is precisely what I am not allowed to have.
+I am reminded of the story of the hussar who took an interest in the
+prisoner whom he had to put to death, and said to him: "Ask me any
+favour you like, except to spare your life."'
+
+And this:
+
+'A fearful scene this evening with Madame de Stael. I announce my
+intention of leaving her definitely. A second scene follows. Frenzy:
+reconciliation impossible; departure difficult. I must go away and
+get married.'
+
+And this:
+
+'Madame de Stael has won me back to her again.'
+
+Until, finally, their relations gradually going from bad to worse, we
+reach this striking piece of eloquence:
+
+'Yes, certainly I am more anxious than ever to break it off. She is
+the most egoistical, the most excitable, the most ungrateful, the
+most vain, and the most vindictive of women. Why didn't I break it
+off long ago? She is odious and intolerable to me. I must have done
+with her or die. She is more volcanic than all the volcanoes in the
+world put together. She is like an old _procureur_, with serpents
+in her hair, demanding the fulfilment of a contract in Alexandrine
+verse.'
+
+It was in marriage that Benjamin Constant gradually decided to seek
+a haven of refuge from these tempestuous passions. But, though he is
+continually touching on the subject in his diary, he generally refers
+to it without enthusiasm. Marriage is 'necessary' for him, but there
+are objections to every particular marriage that suggests itself.
+Sometimes the objections are expressed in general terms:
+
+'Went to a party, where I met several agreeable women. But I am very
+unfortunate. In the women whom I might be able and willing to marry
+there is always a something that does not suit me. Meanwhile my life
+advances.'
+
+Sometimes the objections are particularized:
+
+'Trip to Geneva; called on the Mesdemoiselles de Sellon; saw Amelie
+Fabry again. She is as dark as ever, as lively as ever, as wide awake
+as ever. How I should have hated her, if they had succeeded in making
+me marry her! Yet she is really a very amiable girl. But I am always
+unfortunate in finding some insuperable objection in every woman whom
+I think of marrying. Madame de Hardenberg was tiresome and romantic;
+Mrs. Lindsay was forty, and had two illegitimate children. Madame de
+Stael, who understands me better than anyone else does, will not be
+satisfied with my friendship when I can no longer give her my love.
+This poor Amelie, who would like me to marry her, is thirty-two,
+and portionless, and has ridiculous mannerisms, which become more
+accentuated as she grows older. Antoinette, who is twenty, well off,
+and not particularly ridiculous, is such a common little thing to
+look at.'
+
+But Benjamin Constant finally decided to marry Madame Dutertre.[7]
+He bought her from her husband, who, for a sum of money, was willing
+to divorce her; but it was not without a violent struggle that he
+tore himself away from Madame de Stael. Let us trace the story of the
+struggle in his diary. Madame Dutertre was an old friend:
+
+'Called on Madame Dutertre, who has improved wonderfully in
+appearance. I made advances which she did not repel. The citadel is
+to fall to-night. Two years' resistance is quite long enough.
+
+'Off to the country with Charlotte. She is an angel. I love her
+better every day. She is so sweet, so amiable. What a fool I was to
+refuse to have anything to do with her twelve years ago! What mad
+passion for independence drove me to put my neck under the foot of
+the most imperious woman in the world!
+
+'We are back in Paris. Joyous days; delights of love. What the devil
+is the meaning of it? It is twelve years since I last felt a similar
+emotion. This woman, whom I have refused a hundred times, who has
+always loved me, whom I have sent away, whom I left eighteen months
+ago--this woman now turns my head. Evidently the contrast with Madame
+de Stael is the cause of it all. The contrast of her impetuosity,
+her egoism, and her continual preoccupation with herself, with the
+gentleness, the calm, the humble and modest bearing of Charlotte,
+makes the latter a thousand times more dear to me. I am tired of the
+_man-woman_ whose iron hand has for ten years held me fast, when I
+have a really womanly woman to intoxicate and enchant me. If I can
+marry her, I shall not hesitate. Everything depends on the line M.
+Dutertre takes.'
+
+M. Dutertre, as has been stated, took the line of offering to consent
+to a divorce provided it were made worth his while to do so. Madame
+de Stael was more difficult to deal with. The first entry which gives
+us a glimpse of her feelings is as follows:
+
+'Madame de Stael is back; she will not hear of our relations being
+broken off. The best way will be not to see her again, but to wait at
+Lausanne for orders from Charlotte--my good angel whom I bless for
+saving me. Schlegel writes that Madame de Stael declares that, if I
+leave her, she will kill herself. I don't believe a word of it.'
+
+Followed by:
+
+'Unhappy fool that I am; weakness overcomes me; I start for Coppet.
+Tenderness, despair, and then the trump card, "I shall kill myself."'
+
+He fled to Lausanne, but--
+
+'What was the good of coming here? Madame de Stael has come after me,
+and all my plans are upset. In the evening there was a fearful scene,
+lasting till five o'clock in the morning. I am violent, and put
+myself in the wrong. But, my poor Charlotte, I will not forsake you.'
+
+Yet he had hardly written these lines when he was false to them.
+Madame de Stael came a second time to Lausanne to fetch him, and we
+read:
+
+'She came; she threw herself at my feet; she raised frightful cries
+of pain and desolation. A heart of iron would not have resisted. I
+am back at Coppet with her. I have promised to stay six weeks, and
+Charlotte is expecting me at the end of the month. My God! what am I
+to do? I am trampling my future happiness under my feet....
+
+'I receive a letter from Charlotte, who is more loving and more sure
+of me than ever. Would she forgive me if she knew where I am
+and what I am doing? How slowly the time passes! Into what an abysm
+have I not hurled myself! Last night we had a dreadful scene. Shall I
+ever get out of it all alive? I have to pass my time in falsehood and
+deceptions in order to avoid the furious outbreaks which so terrify
+me. If it were not for the hopes which I build upon Madame de Stael's
+approaching departure to Vienna, this life would be unbearable. To
+console myself I spend my time in picturing how things will go if
+they go well. This is my Castle in Spain. Charlotte finishes her
+arrangements, and makes her preparations secretly. Madame de Stael,
+suspecting nothing, sets out for Vienna. I marry Charlotte, and we
+pass the winter pleasantly at Lausanne.'
+
+ [Illustration: CHATEAU DE BLONAY]
+
+Though this was not exactly how things happened, the marriage was
+nevertheless speedily and safely celebrated. But alas! poor Benjamin!
+It was now his turn, in the midst of his domestic bliss, to feel the
+pangs of unrequited love. Having fled from Madame de Stael, he sighed
+for her. His diary is full of his regrets. It is:
+
+'Charlotte is good and sweet. I build myself foolish ideals, and
+throw the blame of my own folly upon others. At bottom Charlotte is
+what women always are. I have blamed individuals where I ought to
+have blamed the species. But for my work, and for the good advice
+that I need, I regret Madame de Stael more than ever.'
+
+Or it is:
+
+'A letter from Madame de Stael, from which I gather that, this time,
+all is really over between us. So be it. It is my own doing. I must
+steer my course alone, but I must take care not to fetter myself with
+other ties which would be infinitely less agreeable.'
+
+Or again:
+
+'I have lost Madame de Stael, and I shall never recover from the
+blow.'
+
+And the truth was, indeed, that Madame de Stael had ceased to care,
+and that another had succeeded to Benjamin Constant's place in her
+heart.
+
+His name was Albert de Rocca, and he was a young French officer who
+had been wounded in the Spanish wars. His personal beauty was such
+that a Spanish woman, finding him left for dead upon a battle-field,
+had taken him home with her, and nursed him back to health, saying
+that it was a pity that such a beautiful young man should die. His
+age was twenty-three, and Madame de Stael's was forty-five. But the
+affection that sprang up between them was deep and genuine. 'I will
+love her,' he said, 'so dearly that she will end by marrying me.'
+And when she protested that she was old enough to be his mother, he
+answered that the mention of that word only gave him a further reason
+for loving her. 'He is fascinated,' Baron de Voght wrote, 'by his
+relations with Madame de Stael, and the tears of his father cannot
+induce him to abandon it.'
+
+So she married him, though, for reasons of her own, she insisted that
+the marriage should be kept a secret. It seemed to her that a young
+husband would make her ridiculous, but that a young lover would not;
+very possibly she was right according to the moral standard of the
+age. At any rate her husband posed as her lover, and in that capacity
+quarrelled with Constant, with whom he nearly fought a duel, and
+travelled with her to Russia, to Sweden, and to England, and lived
+with her in Paris and at Coppet. But it was at this period, when her
+fame was at its zenith, that Madame de Stael wrote: 'Fame is for
+women only a splendid mourning for happiness.'
+
+But the end was drawing near. Madame de Stael had lived all her
+life at high pressure, and her health was undermined. A lingering
+illness, of which the fatal issue was foreseen, overtook her. She
+struggled against it, declaring that she would live for Rocca's
+sake. But all in vain. She died in Paris in 1817. Rocca himself, who
+only survived her a few months, was too ill to be with her. Benjamin
+Constant spent a night of mourning in her death-chamber. They buried
+her at Coppet amid general lamentations.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[5] By the present author in 'Madame de Stael and her Lovers.'
+
+[6] It has since been republished separately.
+
+[7] Madame de Hardenberg, divorced and remarried.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+THE REVOLUTION
+
+
+At Lausanne, as at Geneva, the thunders of the French Revolution
+echoed. Gibbon heard them, and was alarmed, as if at the approach of
+the end of the world. The patriots of Vaud heard them, and rejoiced
+at the hope of a new era about to be begun. Their Excellencies of
+Berne felt the edifice of their dominion crumbling about their ears.
+The burghers of Morges began the trouble by disinterring from their
+archives an old charter, on the strength of which they refused to pay
+for the mending of the roads, while a pastor named Martin exhorted
+his congregation to withhold the tithe that was levied on potatoes.
+Then a fete was held at Rolle to celebrate the anniversary of the
+fall of the Bastille, and 6,000 Bernese invaded the country, arrested
+the ringleaders, and compelled the magistrates to swear allegiance at
+the point of the bayonet. Cesar Laharpe and J. J. Cart appealed to
+the French to intervene.
+
+At first the French hesitated. Robespierre was not ambitious of
+foreign conquests, having his hands full enough at home, but the
+Directorate took larger views. Switzerland was reputed to be
+rich--and _was fuer plunder_! A division of the army of Italy crossed
+the lake on January 28, 1798, and took possession of Lausanne. For
+a space there was civil war. Vaudois volunteers fought under their
+green flag, while a certain Loyal Legion, under Colonel de Rovereaz,
+distinguished itself at Fraubrunnen, in defence of Berne. The French,
+however, were so much stronger than the Bernese that the issue could
+not long remain in doubt. It was the Swiss money that the French
+wanted, and the gold found in the vaults of the Treasury of Berne was
+carried off to Paris, while the Canton of Vaud was accorded a new and
+independent constitution.
+
+ [Illustration: THE RHONE VALLEY FROM MONT PELERIN]
+
+There were other revolutions, and revisions, and reconstructions to
+follow. When the Holy Alliance remodelled the map of Europe in 1815,
+the fate of Vaud, like that of so many other minor nationalities,
+hung in the balance. The Bernese fully expected to be allowed to
+re-establish their dominion; but Alexander I., prompted by Laharpe,
+prevented them. 'You have done a great deal for me,' the Emperor
+is reported to have said to the Liberator. 'What can I do for you?'
+And the Liberator's answer was: 'Sire, all that I ask is permission
+to speak to your Majesty of my country whenever I wish.' He spoke
+in 1815, and the Emperor listened; and the claims of Berne were
+rejected; and Laharpe took a house at Lausanne, and looked down on
+the scene of his triumphs, and fought his battles over again, and
+frequented Madame de Stael, whom in more stormy days he had written
+of as 'une infernale gueuse,' and was reverenced by all as the 'Grand
+Old Man' of the Canton.
+
+There were further political changes in 1830, in 1845, and in 1861;
+but of these we need not speak. Their interest is no more than local.
+What the English traveller chiefly sees in the Lausanne of the
+nineteenth century is an increasing English colony, and the loudly
+vaunted educational facilities.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+THE ENGLISH COLONY--THE EDUCATIONAL ADVANTAGES
+
+
+Of the English colony there is not perhaps a great deal to be said,
+except that it fills two churches on Sundays, and at all times
+monopolizes the Ouchy road. It has never consisted of distinguished
+persons like the English colony at Florence; on the other hand, it
+has never included so large a proportion of disreputable persons
+as the English colonies at Brussels and Boulogne. Gibbon cannot
+be said to have belonged to it, since, in his day, it did not yet
+exist; and it can hardly claim Dickens, since his sojourn there
+was of comparatively brief duration. In the main it is composed of
+very young and rather elderly members of the respectable middle
+classes. There is an English club, and there are opportunities of
+playing bridge. The life is inexpensive, not because commodities are
+specially cheap, but because there are no wealthy residents to set
+extravagant standards. A small income goes a long way there; and the
+climate is salubrious for all those whose bronchial tubes are in a
+condition to resist the _bise_.
+
+These are conditions which please a great many people--notably the
+wandering spinsters who 'live in their boxes,' and the retired
+officers and civil servants who have to subsist upon their pensions.
+At Lausanne they can economize without feeling the pinch of poverty,
+and without feeling envious--or perceiving that their wives
+feel envious--of more prosperous neighbours. The sunshine costs
+nothing, and the amusements cost very little; they can go about in
+knickerbockers and wear out their old clothes without fearing that
+their solvency will be suspected. There is no need for them to learn
+a foreign tongue, since they form their own society, and mix very
+little with the Swiss who accept them, but do not pretend to like
+them. They live lazily, but healthily, and, on the whole, contentedly.
+
+Of course, there is another side to the medal, and a price to be
+paid for the advantages. The colonists are exiles who have severed
+old ties, and have a difficulty in forming new ones. Their existence
+is rather animal than human, and rather vegetable than animal. They
+lose their energy and their intelligence; they are like plants no
+longer growing in a garden, but uprooted and flung upon the grass. A
+stranger finds it difficult to converse with them, and fancies that
+they must be terribly bored. Perhaps they are; but perhaps, too, it
+is better to be bored in the sunshine than busy in a London fog.
+So they linger on, persuading themselves that they do so for their
+children's sake rather than their own, and referring the stranger, if
+he happens to question them, to the wonderful educational advantages
+of the town.
+
+But what is the sober truth about those educational advantages? That
+is another branch of the subject which seems to be worth a passing
+word.
+
+Assuredly the Swiss have a great reputation as educators, and that
+reputation stands nowhere higher than in the Canton of Vaud. Yverdon
+is in the Canton of Vaud, and it was there that Pestalozzi kept his
+school. Moreover, just as it has been said that every citizen of
+Ticino is by nature a hotel-keeper, so it has been said that every
+citizen of Vaud is by nature a professor. Professors, as we have
+already seen, were among the Canton's chief 'articles of export'
+during the Bernese domination, and kings preferred the Vaudois
+professors to any others. Yet a sufficient number of professors--and
+perhaps the best of them--have always remained behind, so that
+teaching and learning have continued to be great native industries.
+The question which is left is, How do the Swiss systems of education
+compare with ours?
+
+The answer is commonplace, and sounds platitudinous: they are better
+than ours in some respects, and inferior in others. Let us elaborate
+and particularize.
+
+Scholarship, in the accepted English sense of the word, hardly exists
+in Switzerland. A Swiss Jebb is almost unthinkable, and if anyone
+proposes to find a Swiss Bentley in Casaubon, the answer must be that
+Casaubon was not really Swiss, though he was, for a time, a professor
+at Geneva. In the matter of the classics the German scholars have
+always been more learned than the Swiss, and the English scholars
+have always been both more learned and more graceful; indeed, in
+the sort of scholarship which enables a man to speak and write his
+own language properly the Swiss have always been sadly to seek.
+Swiss French is atrocious, and the French of Lausanne, though a
+shade better than that of Fribourg, is worse than that of Geneva or
+Neuchatel. When the French themselves wish to say that a man's style
+is clumsy, they liken it to 'a Swiss translation from the Belgian.'
+
+ [Illustration: A STREET IN ST. SAPHORIN]
+
+Nor have the Swiss ever made any notable contribution to original
+philosophic thought. Their principal metaphysicians, like Charles
+Bonnet, have been merely theologians in disguise, who have started
+by assuming the points which they undertook to prove, and have
+been unable to keep their metaphysics and their theology apart,
+as did, for example, Bishop Berkeley and Dean Mansell. The great
+names in the history of speculative thought--such names as those of
+Spinoza, Locke, Hume, Kant, Hegel, Comte, Herbert Spencer, and T.
+H. Green--have been English, or German, or French, or Dutch. One
+does not find a single Swiss name among them. The great Swiss names,
+when we get away from theology, all stand for something scientific,
+practical, concrete. Lavater, Gesner, Saussure, Jomini--such are a
+few of the instances that may be cited to point our moral and lead us
+up to our generalization, which is as follows:
+
+Elementary education is excellent in Switzerland; but the higher
+education is too technical and utilitarian to satisfy those who
+consider that the function of education is to cultivate the mind. The
+elementary schools of the Canton of Vaud are probably better than
+those of the County of London; but the Universities of Geneva and
+Lausanne are a poor substitute for those of Oxford and Cambridge.
+
+Let us by all means give praise where praise is due. The Medical
+Faculties of Berne and Lausanne have a European reputation; and it
+is said that engineering is nowhere taught better than at the Zurich
+Polytechnic. The practical side of the Swiss character is also well
+exemplified in the various schools for waiters, for watch-makers, and
+for bee-keepers. But it is possible--or it seems so to an English
+University man--for education to be too practical; and the Swiss
+have surely committed that excess in devising that educational
+abomination, the School of Commerce. Nothing is ever taught in
+a School of Commerce that a man who has been properly educated
+elsewhere cannot pick up in six weeks; and the curriculum, though it
+may sharpen the wits, can only, at the best, produce a superior kind
+of bagman.
+
+Swiss education, therefore, has its drawbacks even for a Switzer;
+and, for a young Englishman of the better class, it has other
+drawbacks in addition. It is not merely that he learns less than he
+would in England because an unfamiliar language is the medium of
+instruction. He also acquires the wrong tone and the wrong manner,
+misses opportunities of making useful friends, and finds himself,
+when he grows up, a stranger in his own country--a stranger not
+only to the people, but to the ways and modes of thought. That is
+a disadvantage which was pointed out as long ago as the eighteenth
+century, by Dr. John Moore, when a nobleman who had thought of
+sending his son to the University of Geneva asked his advice on
+the subject. 'The boy would return,' said the doctor, 'a kind of a
+Frenchman, and would so be disqualified for success in English life.'
+
+The same criticism still applies. We are better cosmopolitans
+nowadays than were Dr. Moore's contemporaries, but the differences
+between the nations still subsist; and, just as each nation has
+the system of education which it deserves, so it has the system of
+education which best prepares a man to fight the battle of life in
+his own country. In England, more than in any other country, success
+depends comparatively little upon book-learning, and very much upon
+character and the possession of certain qualities which, in our
+insular pride, we vaunt as specially 'British.' These qualities are
+not to be acquired in the Swiss schools. The qualities that are to be
+acquired there may, in some respects, be better and more solid; but
+they are not so useful in Great Britain. An English boy educated in
+a Swiss school is, as a rule, when he leaves, rather a clumsy lout,
+with a smattering of bad French, emancipated from certain prejudices
+which might be useful to him, but steeped in other prejudices which
+are likely to stand in his way. One always has the feeling that more
+might have been made of him at home: not merely at Eton or Harrow,
+but at Clifton or Marlborough, or even at St. Paul's or the Bedford
+Grammar School.
+
+On the whole, therefore, the educational _raison d'etre_ of the
+English colony at Lausanne disappears under investigation--at any
+rate, so far as the boys are concerned. The girls, from a certain
+point of view, may be better off there; for the Swiss girls' schools
+are good, and the snobbishness which is the vice of English girls'
+schools is discouraged in them. For the girls, difficulties only
+arise when they reach a marriageable age. There are no husbands
+for them at Lausanne, or anywhere in Switzerland, unless it be at
+Montreux, where Anglo-Indians sometimes come on leave, since all the
+men whom they meet--one is speaking only of their own countrymen--are
+either too young or too old--mere students, or else superannuated
+veterans. They know it, and lament their lot aloud; and the Swiss
+know it, too, and make remarks. The English colony at Lausanne, they
+say, is _une vraie pepiniere de vieilles filles_.
+
+But this is an excursus. We must return to Lausanne, and take another
+look at its social and intellectual life.
+
+ [Illustration: THE DENTS DU MIDI AND LA TOUR FROM "ENTRE DEUX
+ VILLES"]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+VINET AND SAINTE-BEUVE--JUSTE OLIVIER
+
+
+The centre of the intellectual life was always the University. It
+could not be otherwise in a country in which every man is born a
+pedagogue. In England the view has come to prevail that literature
+only begins to be vital when it ceases to be academic. In the Canton
+of Vaud the literature is academic or nothing, and even the poets
+are professors, unbending in their hours of sentimental ease; while
+the literature of revolt is the bitter cry of professors who have
+forfeited their chairs on account of their religious or political
+opinions. As the result of each revolution in turn we see a company
+of professors put to flight. The casualties of that sort are at least
+as numerous as the broken heads.
+
+The detailed relation of such professorial vicissitudes belongs,
+however, to the native antiquary. Here it will suffice to recall a
+few more notable names.
+
+A Swiss historian would doubtless say that the greatest of the names
+is that of Alexandre Vinet. In his hot youth he wrote riotous poetry:
+
+ 'O mes amis, vidons bouteille
+ Et laissons faire le destin.
+ Le Dieu qui preside a la treille
+ Est notre unique souverain.'
+
+Afterwards he became austere, and played a great part in theological
+controversy. He hated the Revivalists, whom he described as 'lunatics
+at large'; but he insisted that religious liberty should be the
+heritage of all, and, while opposing established churches, exercised
+a profound spiritual influence. He was a great Broad Churchman, and
+we may class him as the F. W. Robertson or F. D. Maurice of the
+Canton of Vaud. Sainte-Beuve blew his trumpet, and he, on his part,
+almost persuaded Sainte-Beuve to become a Protestant.
+
+Sainte-Beuve, it is hardly too much to say, came to Lausanne in
+search of a religion. St. Simonism had disappointed him, and so had
+the Liberal Catholicism of Lamennais. Lamennais, in fact, had gone
+too fast and too far for him--had, as it were, he said, taken him
+for a drive, and spilt him in a ditch, and left him there and driven
+on. None the less, he earnestly desired to be spiritually-minded
+and a devout believer, feeling, in particular, an inclination
+towards mysticism, though unable to profess himself a mystic. 'I
+have,' he wrote to a friend, 'the sense of these things, but not the
+things themselves.' It seemed to him that he might find 'the things
+themselves' at Lausanne, if he went there in the proper spirit and
+sat at Vinet's feet.
+
+His Swiss friend, Juste Olivier, a professor who was also a poet,
+procured him an engagement to deliver a course of lectures at
+the Lausanne Academy,[8] and he embarked upon his errand with as
+much humility as was compatible with professorship. Left free to
+choose his own subject, he decided to treat of Port Royal and the
+Jansenists--the most spiritually-minded of the Catholics, and those
+who had the closest affinity with the Protestants. By means of his
+lectures he thought to build himself a bridge by which to pass from
+the one camp to the other.
+
+His elocution was defective, and his lectures were not quite such a
+success as he could have wished. The students used to meet in the
+cafes to parody them in the evenings. On the other hand, however,
+serious people eagerly watched the developments of the spiritual
+drama. Not only did it seem to them that the fate of a soul was in
+the balance--they were also hoping to see Protestantism score the
+sort of triumph that would make a noise in Paris. So they asked daily
+for news of Sainte-Beuve, as of a sick man lying at death's door,
+and asked Vinet, whom they regarded as his spiritual physician, to
+issue a bulletin. And Vinet's bulletin was to this effect: 'I think
+he is convinced, but not yet converted.' But Vinet, as he was soon to
+discover, was only partly right.
+
+That Sainte-Beuve was not converted was, indeed, obvious enough,
+seeing that he was making violent love to his neighbour's wife
+at the time--between him and 'conversion' stood the obstructive
+charms of Madame Olivier. But it is equally true that he was not
+convinced; and, by a crowning irony, he found his faith evaporating
+as he got to close quarters with the subject, through the study of
+which he had expected to achieve conviction. The great history of
+Port Royal, begun by a believer, was finished by a sceptic. 'Moral
+bankruptcy,' is M. Michaut's description of his condition, and there
+is a sense in which it might be applied even by those who desire to
+dissociate morality from creeds. It was the end--at any rate, for
+Sainte-Beuve--of all emotion which was not either purely sensual or
+purely intellectual. He could not be a mystic, as he could not be a
+poet, because he lacked the necessary genius; and forms of religion
+which depended, not on intuition, but on authority, were repugnant to
+his sane intelligence. So he said a sad farewell to Christianity, and
+sought no substitute. 'I am mournfully looking on at the death of my
+heart,' he wrote to Vinet; and he went away and resigned himself to
+become a materialist, a voluptuary, and a critic.
+
+And now a word about that Juste Olivier to whom Sainte-Beuve owed
+his appointment, and to whose wife Sainte-Beuve made love. The poet
+and the critic had met at Paris, where Olivier had gone to prepare
+himself for the Chair of Literature at Neuchatel. He was promoted,
+three years later, to the Chair of History at Lausanne, which he
+occupied for twelve years, acting also, during part of the time, as
+editor of the _Revue Suisse_, to which Sainte-Beuve contributed.
+The Revolution of 1845 unseated him. He went to Paris, where he
+achieved no great success, and was homesick there for five-and-twenty
+years. The Swiss forgot him, and the Parisians did not understand
+him. But, in 1870, when there was no longer a living to be made in
+Paris, he came home again. One may quote the pathetic picture of his
+home-coming, drawn by M. Philippe Godet:
+
+'He had to live. For three winters the poet travelled through
+French Switzerland, lecturing, reading his verses, relating his
+reminiscences, with that melancholy humour which gave his speech its
+charm. The public--I speak of what I saw--was polite, respectful,
+and nothing more. Olivier felt almost a stranger in his own country.
+But he consoled himself, in the summer, at Gryon, "the high village
+facing the Alps of Vaud," which he has so often celebrated. He was to
+sing, at the mid-August fete, his song to the Shepherds of Anzeindaz.
+And there they understood him and applauded. He had his day of
+happiness and glory among these simple mountaineers. He was, for an
+hour, what it had been the dream of his life to be, the national
+singer of the Vaudois country.'
+
+But the end is melancholy. He died in a chalet at Gryon in January,
+1876, a broken and disappointed man, reluctant even to speak of his
+work or hear it spoken of. There is a deep pathos in one of his last
+letters which M. Godet quotes:
+
+'It is a melancholy history--that of our country. It did nothing for
+Viret or Vinet; and, though I do not rank myself with them, I
+too know what neglect means. "Come and have a drink"--that is their
+last word here. I had hoped for better things. What a beautiful dream
+it was! At least I have been loyal to it, even if I have not, as I
+fancy, done all that it was in me to do. Since the day when, in one
+of my first printed poems, I wrote, "Un genie est cache dans tous les
+lieux que j'aime," I have obstinately sought out that genius, and
+tried to make it speak. It has answered me, I think more often than
+its voice has been heard.'
+
+ [Illustration: LUTRY]
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[8] It was not made a University until later.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+NYON
+
+
+Lausanne, for the purposes of this volume, must be taken to include
+such neighbouring lake-side towns as Morges, and Rolle, and Nyon.
+Morges we have already seen distinguishing itself by refusing, on
+principle, to pay for the mending of the roads, and so paving the
+way for the subsequent insurrection. Nowadays it is the seat of an
+arsenal, and is said to have an aristocratic population, interested
+in literature. Rolle was the home of the Laharpes, and boasts a
+statue of Cesar de Laharpe by Pradier. A colony of French and Genevan
+political exiles once flourished there, and Madame de Stael was a
+frequent visitor. Voltaire once proposed to buy an estate in the
+neighbourhood--the Chateau des Menthon--but the Bernese would not
+let him do so, alleging the curious reason that the philosopher was
+a Roman Catholic. Nyon is the dirtiest town on the Lake--or would
+be if Villeneuve were not dirtier. But it is also one of the most
+picturesque--the castle being nobly situated and in a fine state of
+preservation--and it has its interesting memories.
+
+One of its interesting associations is with the Waldenses. These
+persecuted Protestants had fled, or been driven out, from their
+mountain home above Turin. Switzerland received them hospitably, but
+they were homesick. They resolved to go back; not to slink back in
+twos and threes, but to march back, with their flags flying, like
+courageous Christian soldiers. They mustered at Nyon, and thence
+crossed the lake under the leadership of the fighting pastor,
+Henri Arnaud, and marched across the mountains to effect their
+'glorious re-entry.' It was a great military feat, and no less a
+judge than Napoleon has paid his tribute to the military genius of
+the commander. The returning exiles defeated the soldiers of Savoy
+in more than one pitched battle. One thinks of them generally as
+the 'slaughtered saints, whose bones' inspired one of the finest of
+Milton's sonnets, but theirs were not the only bones that whitened
+the valleys during that notable expedition.
+
+Nyon again recalls the memory of Bonstetten, who governed it for a
+season on behalf of Berne. If all the Bernese Governors had been
+like him, Vaud would have been a contented country, though he is
+chiefly remembered as a wit and a man of culture, who lived to be
+eighty-seven without ever seeming to grow old. In his youth he
+travelled in England, and was the friend of Gray; in his old age
+he lived at Geneva, and was the friend of Byron. In the meantime
+he had been the friend of Madame de Stael, and a pillar of the
+cosmopolitan society at Coppet. He wrote some books, but they are
+dead and buried. What lives is the recollection of the genial old
+gentleman whom everybody liked, and who proved--what needed a great
+deal of proving--that it was possible for a Bernese to be gracious
+and frivolous, and to have a sense of humour. He detested the society
+of his native city, and wrote a delightfully sarcastic description of
+its daily life in a letter to one of the Hallers:
+
+'We are living here, as we always do. We sleep, we breakfast, we
+yawn, we drag through the morning, and we digest our food. And then
+we dine, and then we dress, and then we swagger in the Arcades, and
+say to ourselves: "I am charming and clever, for the spelling of
+my name makes me capable of governing and illuminating two hundred
+thousand souls." And then we accost a lady with a pretty figure
+decently enveloped in a mantle, and then we go to a party and circle
+round a dozen turtle-doves, and deliver ourselves of platitudes with
+the air of saying something clever. Then we have something to eat,
+and, finding our intellectual resources exhausted, amuse ourselves
+with paper games; and then we go to bed, feeling satisfied with
+ourselves--for we have been delightful.'
+
+Out of sympathy with Berne, Bonstetten had a good deal more sympathy
+than Berne liked with the revolutionary party. It is said that
+his sympathies lost him his post; but before that happened he had
+time to render a useful service to one of the most eminent of the
+revolutionists. He was at supper one day with a considerable number
+of guests when his servant whispered in his ear that a mysterious
+stranger was without, asking to speak with him. He stepped into the
+garden, where a man, miserably dressed, was waiting for him in the
+summer-house. He inquired his errand, and the answer was: 'I am
+Carnot, and I am perishing from hunger. I implore you to give me
+shelter for the night.' Bonstetten not only gave him shelter for
+the night, but, on the following morning, gave him a passport under
+an assumed name. One can understand that his superiors at Berne did
+not regard him as a model functionary, but Carnot never forgot his
+kindness. When he became Napoleon's War Minister, he invited him
+to Paris, introduced him to the Emperor, and heaped proofs of his
+gratitude upon him.
+
+ [Illustration: CULLY FROM EPESSE: AUTUMN]
+
+Perhaps it is also worth noting that, in the days before the
+railways, Nyon was on the highroad from France to Switzerland. The
+track descended there from Saint-Cergues, where it crossed the Jura;
+and by it travelled Madame de Stael, and Benjamin Constant, and
+Voltaire, and many another whom we have met in the course of this
+rambling narrative. There is a new road now, with wide, sweeping
+curves, and a gentle gradient; but enough of the old road remains to
+show us how shamefully bad it was--a narrow road, of uneven surface,
+plunging headlong through the pine-forest. The lumbering old coaches,
+with their six horses, must have had a very bad time there, and it is
+no wonder that Napoleon ordered a road to be made over the Col de la
+Faucille to supersede it.
+
+But enough of Nyon and the Canton de Vaud! We must cross the lake
+to the French shore; and, as first impressions are always the most
+graphic, permission has been obtained to print here the writer's own
+first impressions, contributed a few years since, to the columns of
+the _Pall Mall Gazette_.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+THE FRENCH SHORE
+
+
+What strikes the holiday traveller about the French shore is that
+it is so much better managed than the Swiss shore. Its natural
+advantages are fewer--they are, in fact, very few indeed. Evian--and
+when one speaks of the French shore one is principally thinking of
+Evian--stands with its back to the high mountains instead of facing
+them. Consequently it has no views to compare with the views from
+Lausanne, Geneva, and Vevey. Its hinterland is commonplace, except
+for those who make a great effort and go up the Dent d'Oche. The
+mouth of the Dranse, hard by, is a dreary collection of detritus.
+There are hardly any literary landmarks, except the few that recall
+the memory of St. Francis de Sales. Whence English travellers
+have, almost with one accord, drawn the inference that it is not
+worth while to go to Evian. But they are wrong. The French think
+otherwise, and the French are right. They do not go there, as some
+suppose, because they are crippled with diseases and need the waters
+to wash poisons out of their blood and their organs: the Evian water
+is the sort of water that the whole, as well as the sick, can drink
+by the bucketful without feeling a penny the worse for it. Their
+purpose in going to Evian is to live a life of luxury and leisure.
+No doubt they pay through the nose for the privilege. Inquiry at one
+hotel elicited the statement that the worst rooms were let at eight
+and the best at eighty francs a day--with service _a la carte_ on the
+same scale. But other hotels are cheaper, and it is also possible to
+hire a villa, a flat, a lodging; and, in any case, it is right that
+Evian should be introduced to the English tourist as the one place
+on the Lake of Geneva in which the life of leisure and luxury is
+possible.
+
+There is no real luxury at Geneva itself, though there are high
+prices and immense hotels. Instead of having good music at fixed
+hours, they have indifferent music all day long. The whole air is
+full of a continual tinkle-tinkle; louder than the tinkle-tinkle
+rises the hooting of the steamers and the trams; louder still are the
+voices of the trippers, mostly Americans, inquiring the prices of
+things, or complaining that they have lost their luggage. The society
+at the boasted Kursaal is an unpolished horde, mainly composed of
+the Geneva clerks and shop-assistants losing their salaries at
+_petits chevaux_. Nor are things much better elsewhere on the Swiss
+shore. Nyon, for instance, is by nature an earthly paradise, and
+they have formed a society for developing it. What they really want
+is a society for cleaning it, since it is the present practice of
+the inhabitants to empty their dustbins over their garden walls into
+the lake, with results appalling to the nostrils of the stranger. At
+Lausanne, or Vevey, or Montreux--other earthly paradises--you escape
+this nuisance; but even there, in the season, you have the feeling
+that the place is one vast hotel, and that everybody is waiting with
+packed boxes for the omnibus. But cross to Evian. The town is a
+little smaller than Montreux, but just as full. Yet it never seems
+to be crowded. There is no hurrying or bustling. You are in nobody's
+way, and nobody is in your way; which means that Evian is properly
+managed.
+
+They do not encourage you to come to Evian in the capacity of
+tripper. On the contrary, they try to arrange things so that you must
+sacrifice your lunch in order to get there, and your dinner in order
+to get home. But this is a part of the secret of good management,
+as you will appreciate if you stay there. No knickerbockered army,
+headed by a polyglot guide in a straw hat with a label on it, will
+invade your peace, but you will be free to live your lotus-eating
+life in your own way. You will probably live most of it in the
+casino, which is a proper casino, differing from the Geneva Kursaal
+as cheese from chalk. There is so much shade that it is always cool
+there, even on the hottest day. You will lunch there on a shaded
+terrace, assisted by a sympathetic waiter, who understands that a
+good lunch is an end in itself, and not merely a device for keeping
+body and soul together until the evening. You will linger long and
+agreeably over the coffee and liqueurs, without feeling that someone
+else wants your seat. Nor will you be bothered, as in Geneva, by
+the squeaking of a futile fiddle, or by hawkers offering picture
+postcards. But, at the appointed hour, there will be a proper concert
+with a programme, and a well-behaved and well-dressed audience:
+beautiful French ladies looking as if they had stepped out of fashion
+plates; beautiful French children looking as if they had been cut out
+of Aunt Louisa's picture-book; fantastic Frenchmen, looking as
+if they were dressed for amateur theatricals. Then, when the evening
+comes, and you have dined as well as you have lunched, there will be
+a performance in the little theatre, given by artistes from Paris,
+who come on to Evian from Aix-les-Bains: Rejane, Jeanne Granier,
+Charlotte Wiehe, or others. Or there will be a ball in the grand
+style--not in the least like the balls in the Hall-by-the-Sea at
+Margate--given in as good a ballroom as the heart of a dancer could
+wish for. But no hurrying, or hustling, or excitement. At Evian, if
+nowhere else on Lake Leman, life is a leisurely pageant.
+
+ [Illustration: GRANDVAUX FROM CULLY]
+
+For the rest, there is little enough for you to do--nothing, in fact,
+except to stroll up and down the long avenue of linked plane-trees by
+the lake-side, observe how clean they keep the water, and gaze across
+its calm surface to the Swiss shore where the trippers make a noise.
+But this has always been a favourite occupation of the dwellers on
+the French shore, whether in fact or works of fiction. From Meillerie
+St. Preux gazed across at the _bosquet_ of Clarens. From Thonon
+St. Francis de Sales gazed across, pondering plans for working the
+Counter-Reformation in the Canton de Vaud. From Evian itself, Madame
+de Warens gazed across, regretting the home of her youth to which
+she could never return, because, when she left it, she had abandoned
+her religion, and taken with her certain goods and chattels which her
+creditors were about to seize.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+HISTORY OF THE FRENCH SHORE--FELIX V
+
+
+The history of the French shore, which has only recently belonged
+to France, may be told in briefest outline. In the earliest times
+of which we need take cognizance it belonged to the Dukes of Savoy,
+whose domains continued for a considerable distance up the valley of
+the Rhone. Then came the war of 1536, of which we have spoken more
+than once, in which the Bernese took the territory away from them.
+Part of it was recovered by Duke Emanuel Philibert in 1564, and the
+whole was reassigned by treaty in 1593. The inhabitants had, in the
+meantime, been converted to Protestantism, and the first task of
+Savoy was to reconvert them. A mission for that purpose was led by
+St. Francis de Sales, and the principles of the Counter-Reformation
+quickly triumphed. The French Revolution brought a French army to
+Savoy, but the expelled rulers came to their own again when the Holy
+Alliance resettled the map of Europe. Nothing further happened until
+the war which resulted in the consolidation of a United Italy. Savoy
+(together with Nice) was then Napoleon III.'s reward for ejecting the
+Austrian garrison from Italian territory. The country had long been
+French in its language and its sympathies, and the people were quite
+willing, if not actively anxious, to change their allegiance; and
+the history of Savoy has, since that date, belonged to the history
+of France. Its extreme Catholicism, like that of Brittany, gave
+trouble at the time of the expulsion of the Religious Orders, but
+that is a question of modern politics into which it is unnecessary to
+enter here. We will search instead for the historical and literary
+landmarks.
+
+Our first interesting name is that of Duke Amadeus VIII. The death
+of his eldest son caused him profound grief, and 'in 1431,' says
+Bishop Creighton, 'he retired from active life, and built himself
+a luxurious retreat at Ripaille, whither he withdrew with seven
+companions to lead a life of religious seclusion. His abode was
+called the Temple of St. Maurice; he and his followers wore grey
+cloaks, like hermits, with gold crosses round their necks and long
+staffs in their hands.' But though Duke Amadeus dressed as a
+hermit, he hardly lived as one; and as for religious seclusion, he
+interpreted it after a fashion of his own. 'Vitam magis voluptuosam
+quam penitentialem degebat,' is the statement of his biographer,
+Aeneas Sylvius; and his jovial proceedings added to the French
+language the new expression 'faire Ripaille.'
+
+Those were the days, however, when the Council of Basle accused Pope
+Eugenius IV. of heresy and schism. An Opposition Pope was wanted, and
+the Council decided to offer the dignity to the ducal hermit, who
+was living a voluptuous rather than a penitential life. A deputation
+was sent to wait upon him at Ripaille. Amadeus, with his hermit
+companions, advanced to meet the visitors, with a cross borne before
+him, and discussed the proposal in a thoroughly business-like spirit.
+'What,' he asked, 'do you expect the Pope to live on? I cannot
+consume my patrimony and disinherit my sons.' He was promised a grant
+of first-fruits of vacant benefices, and that satisfied him, though
+he made the further stipulation that he should not be required to
+shave. As a matter of fact, however, he was presently shamed into
+shaving by the respectful amazement of the devout; and he took the
+name of Felix V. and entered Basle attended by his two sons--'an
+unusual escort for a Pope,' as Creighton justly remarks--and was
+crowned by the Cardinal of Aries, the only Cardinal present, on July
+24, 1440.
+
+The question then arose, Which Pope would be recognized by the other
+European Principalities and Powers? By degrees it was found that the
+balance of opinion was against Felix V., and in favour of Eugenius
+IV. and his successor Nicolas V.; and Felix V. then discovered that
+he did not greatly care about his somewhat shadowy honours. He had
+had much anxiety, and only a small and irregular stipend. So, on
+April 7, 1449, he was persuaded to resign the Papal office, and less
+than two years afterwards he died. 'He was more useful to the Church
+by his death than by his life,' says Aeneas Sylvius. But that is as it
+may be. He was, at all events, an interesting figure and a better man
+than Aeneas himself, seeing that Aeneas, afterwards Pius II., candidly
+confessed that he was 'neither holier than David nor wiser than
+Solomon,' and actually wrote love-letters to help Sigismund, Count
+of Tyrol, 'to overcome the resistance of a girl who shrank from his
+dishonourable proposals.'
+
+ [Illustration: THE RHONE VALLEY FROM CHEXBRES]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+ST. FRANCIS DE SALES
+
+
+A greater figure--perhaps the greatest of all figures in the history
+of Savoy--is that of St. Francis de Sales. It is a little difficult
+to speak of him without appearing to stir the embers of theological
+disputation. But the effort must be made, since he is much too
+notable a man to be passed over; and the task may be made easier
+by the fact that he is a Catholic of whom Protestants speak well,
+even though they have to recognize in him one of the most damaging
+of their opponents. They respect his character even in the act of
+examining his propositions; they perceive that it was just because
+his character was so admirable that he was able to do the cause of
+the Reformation so much harm.
+
+He combined qualities which, in that age, were rarely found
+conjoined, being at once a gentleman and a scholar, a man of saintly
+humility, and yet of energy and courage. Such men were scarce in
+both religious camps. The Reformers had their share of virile
+vigour, and the best of them were among the most learned men of
+their time; but, on the whole, they lacked good manners and 'sweet
+reasonableness.' Their methods were often violent, and their speech
+was often coarse. They upset altars and smashed stained-glass
+windows, and threw sacred images into the rivers, and, as we
+have seen, 'crowned Roman Catholic priests with cow-dung.' Their
+vocabulary, too, was scurrilous, as was natural, seeing that many of
+them had risen to eminence in their church from some very humble rank
+in life. They lacked the grand style in theology, and one could find
+excuses for calling them vulgarians.
+
+No doubt there was more of the grand style among their Catholic
+opponents, but they also fell short in many ways of the Christian
+ideal. Many of them were dissolute debauchees. The case of Aeneas
+Sylvius, already cited, shows that the most cynical immorality was
+not incompatible with the highest ecclesiastical advancement, and,
+indeed, it is notorious that the loose lives of ecclesiastical
+dignitaries did more than their unscriptural doctrines to discredit
+the Church of Rome and make the Reformation possible. There were
+prelates of whom it could truly be said that they spared neither men
+in their anger nor women in their lust; and even among those whose
+reputation was sweeter, there were a good many who would have passed
+a very bad quarter of an hour if haled before Calvin's Consistory
+and cross-examined. Even if they had passed the moral standards,
+they would have been found guilty of luxury and arrogance. They were
+unduly addicted to purple and fine linen, and made no pretence to
+live a simple life.
+
+On each side, however, there were exceptions, exempt from the
+characteristic faults of their parties, and these, even in that age
+of vehement polemics, were able to recognize and appreciate one
+another. On the Protestant side there was M. de Beze--the 'gentleman
+reformer,' as he has been called--who, drawing a useful inspiration
+from the memories of his unregenerate days, was able to speak affably
+with his enemies in the gate. On the Catholic side there was St.
+Francis de Sales, whom the study of the Humane Letters had indeed
+humanized, who was transparently sincere, and who, by the charm of
+his character, disarmed antagonism. In an age in which men of all
+religious opinions (and of none) lived in daily peril of torture
+and the stake, each of these two men believed that the other was
+honestly mistaken, and would have liked to be his friend.
+
+Judged by the historical results of his principal achievement, St.
+Francis can hardly escape condemnation as a maker of mischief and a
+stirrer-up of strife. To him, and to him alone, was due the triumph
+of the Counter-Reformation in Chablais. If he had declined that
+missionary enterprise, or failed in it, the Duke of Savoy would not
+have been encouraged to make the treacherous attempt upon Genevan
+independence known as the Escalade. That plot was actually laid at
+Thonon, at a meeting held to celebrate and rejoice over St. Francis
+de Sales' apostolic achievements. He must have known of it; he was
+in a position to protest against it; he does not appear to have
+done anything of the kind. It went forward, and Spanish soldiers
+were hired to cut Genevan throats in the name of the Church of St.
+Peter. There we have cause and effect--a saintly man interfering with
+freedom of thought, and so bringing, not peace, but a sword.
+
+That is the summing-up of the matter which impartial logic
+compels; but, somehow or other, it does not much interfere with
+the friendliness of one's feelings towards St. Francis de Sales.
+The rude logic of events did not correspond to any syllogism in
+his mind. The narrowness of his outlook was that of his country
+and his age; the sweetness of his temper was his own. He loved his
+erring brothers, as he considered them, and his concern was for
+the salvation of their souls. He did disinterestedly, and at great
+personal sacrifice, the duty which he conceived to lie nearest to
+him; he did it like a soldier, who must not reason why, and with a
+serene and lofty courage.
+
+The courage of missionaries has often, it is true, been the subject
+of exaggerated eulogy. Courage is no uncommon human quality; and it
+is doubtful whether good men are, on an average, any braver than
+bad men. It is not only the soldier who, as a matter of course,
+takes risks quite equal to those of the missionary. The brigand, the
+highwayman, and the beach-comber, to say nothing of the terrorist,
+who is generally an atheist, also do so; and, these things being so,
+much of the talk about the heroism of Christian heroes is almost
+indecently vainglorious. Yet, even when all the necessary deductions
+have been made, there remains something singularly fascinating in the
+courage of St. Francis de Sales.
+
+He was not by nature pugnacious, as was, for example, Farel, who
+took an Irishman's delight in a row, and considered that it was all
+in the day's work when he was fustigated by women, or dragged up and
+down the floor of a church by the beard. His tastes, on the contrary,
+were refined, and his inclinations were for the life of the cloister
+or the study. He went into the wilds of Chablais--and it was really
+a wild country in those days--because he had been called and chosen,
+and because there was work to be done there which he was considered
+specially capable of doing. Men with guns took pot-shots at him in
+the dark places of the forests; and he once spent a whole winter's
+night in a tree-top, while a pack of hungry wolves howled at him from
+below. Such adventures were repugnant to his gentle and sensitive
+nature; but he faced them and persevered, year after year, until at
+last his pertinacity was rewarded. More as a tribute to his unique
+personality than to his arguments--which, of course, were only the
+commonplaces of Catholic apologetics--Chablais surrendered to the
+Church. Even though one wishes that Chablais had held out, one cannot
+help regarding its evangelist as a sympathetic figure. Pope Alexander
+VII. canonized him in 1665.
+
+ [Illustration: THE CHURCH OF ST. MARTIN, VEVEY]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+JOSEPH DE MAISTRE
+
+
+St. Francis de Sales, was not only a missionary, but also a man of
+letters, and--especially--a patron of letters. Thirty years before
+Richelieu founded the French Academy, he founded the Florimontane
+Academy--with the motto _Flores fructusque perennes_--in Savoy, and
+thus forged one of the links between the literature of Savoy and
+that of France. More than one great writer, whom we carelessly class
+as French, was really of Savoyard origin. Vaugelas, described by
+Sainte-Beuve 'as the first of our correct and polished grammarians,'
+was the son of the Vaugelas who helped St. Francis de Sales in the
+formation of his literary society at Annecy. St. Real, the forerunner
+of Montesquieu, was also a Savoyard; and so were Count Xavier de
+Maistre, author of the widely-read 'Voyage Autour de ma Chambre,' and
+Count Joseph de Maistre, his more distinguished brother.
+
+Joseph de Maistre, indeed, is the greatest of the literary sons of
+Savoy, and a worthy inheritor of the traditions of the saint, his
+predecessor. An aristocrat, and a senator, he was a man of forty when
+the revolutionary storm burst upon his country. For a season he took
+refuge in Lausanne, where he often met, and argued with, Madame de
+Stael, whom he regarded as a woman with a good heart but a perverted
+head. His discussions with her, he said, 'nearly made the Swiss
+die with laughing, though we conducted them without quarrelling.'
+Afterwards he was sent to represent his sovereign at the Court of St.
+Petersburg, where, he complains, he had to get on as best he could,
+'without a salary, without a secretary, and without a fur-lined
+overcoat.' Both there and at Lausanne he wrote.
+
+His date and his circumstances class him with the literary
+_emigres_--with Madame de Stael, Chateaubriand, and Senancour;
+but he lacks their melancholy and their sentimentalism. He and
+Chateaubriand, indeed, resemble one another as two champions of
+the Catholic religion; but they support that religion from widely
+different points of view. Chateaubriand is before all things the
+religious aesthete. He deduces the truth of a creed from its beauty,
+and is very little concerned with its bearing upon moral conduct.
+Joseph de Maistre, on the contrary, seems to believe in the authority
+of the Church because he believes in authority generally. He is an
+Absolutist who hates all Radicals, and regards the schismatic as
+the worst kind of Radical. He makes a religion of the principle of
+'keeping people in their place,' and he supports his religion with
+epigrams. The epigrams are very good, though the religion is very
+bad. The French, like the sound critics that they are, have proved
+themselves capable of enjoying the one while refusing to have very
+much to do with the other.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+ Alexander I., 62
+ Amadeus VIII., Duke, 96
+ Arnaud, Henri, 84
+
+ Beze, M. de, 101
+ Bonivard, 5
+ Bonnet, Charles, 69
+ Bonstetten, 84, 86
+ Bridel, Doyen, 40
+ Bridel, Louis, 40
+ 'Buonaparte,' 44
+ Byron, 85
+
+ Calvin, 6
+ Carnot, 86
+ Cart, C. C., 61
+ Casaubon, 68
+ Charriere, Madame de, 41, 46, 47, 50
+ Chateaubriand, 106
+ Constant de Rebecque, Benjamin, 45, 47, 48, 49, 54, 58, 59, 60, 86
+ Constant, Rosalie de, 45
+ Coppet, 49, 56, 59, 60, 85
+ Curchod, Mademoiselle Suzanne, 16, 17, 18, 20, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27
+
+ D'Alembert, 13
+ Davel, Major, 9
+ Deffand, Madame du, 35
+ Dent d'Oche, 89
+ Deyverdun, 26, 29
+ Dickens, 65
+ Dutertre, Madame, 54, 55, 56, 57
+
+ English Colony, 65, 73
+ Eugenius IV., Pope, 97, 98
+ Evian, 89, 91, 93
+
+ Farel, 6, 104
+ Felix V., 97, 98
+ Florimontane Academy, 105
+ Fox, Charles James, 28, 30
+ Fraubrunnen, 62
+
+ Gesner, 69
+ Gibbon, 13, 17, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 27, 29, 30, 34, 35, 36, 39,
+ 40, 41, 42, 61, 65
+ Godet, M. Philippe, 80
+
+ Hardenberg, Madame de, 53
+ d'Haussonville, Monsieur, 20, 21, 22, 23
+
+ Jomini, 69
+
+ Knox, John, 13
+
+ Laharpe, Cesar, 61, 62, 83
+ Lavater, 69
+ 'Lettres de Lausanne,' 41
+ Ligne, Prince and Princesse de, 31
+ Lindsay, Mrs., 53
+
+ Maistre, Count Joseph de, 105, 106, 107
+ Maistre, Count Xavier de, 105
+ Meillerie, 93
+ Mercier, 31
+ Michaut, M., 78
+ Montolieu, Madame de, 39, 40, 41
+ Moore, Dr. John, 71
+ Morges, 61, 83
+ Moudon, 2
+ Moultou, Pastor, 22
+
+ Necker, Jacques, 31, 34, 37
+ Necker, Madame, 20, 31, 32, 34, 35, 36, 37
+ Necker, M., Madame, and Mademoiselle, 31
+ Nyon, 83, 84, 86
+
+ Olivier, Juste, 77, 79
+ Olivier, Madame, 78
+
+ Pavilliard, Pastor, 13
+ Peter of Savoy, 3
+ Pestalozzi, 67
+ Philibert, Duke Emanuel, 95
+
+ Raynal, Abbe, 31
+ _Revue Suisse_, 79
+ Ripaille, 96, 97
+ Robespierre, 62
+ Rocca, Albert de, 58, 60
+ Rolle, 61, 83
+ Rousseau, 23
+ Rovereaz, Colonel de, 62
+
+ Sainte-Beuve, 76, 77, 79
+ Saint-Cergues, 87
+ St. Francis de Sales, 89, 93, 95, 98, 101, 102, 103, 105
+ Saint-Pierre, Bernardin de, 45
+ Saussure, 69
+ Schlegel, 55
+ Senancour, 106
+ Sheffield, Lord, 29, 40
+ Stael, Madame de, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56,
+ 57, 58, 59, 63, 85, 86, 106
+ Stael, M. de, 48
+ Sylvius, Aeneas, 97, 98, 100
+
+ Talma, Madame, 49
+ Thonon, 93, 102
+ Tissot, Dr., 31, 42, 43
+
+ Vinet, Alexandre, 76, 77, 79, 80
+ Viret, 6, 7, 80
+ Voght, Baron de, 59
+ Voltaire, 13, 30, 83, 86
+ Vulliemin, Louis, 2, 3, 6, 7
+
+ Waldenses, 84
+ Warens, Madame de, 93
+ Wurtemberg, Prince of, 43
+
+ Zaeringen, 1
+
+
+ BILLING AND SONS, LIMITED, PRINTERS, GUILFORD
+
+
+
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